October Mazama Magazine

CONTACT US

FEATURES Mountain Education Alliance, p. 4 Portland Alpine Fest: Special Section, p. 9–19 • The Summit, p. 10 • Portland Ice Comp, p. 11 • Speaker Series, p. 12 • Clinics & Seminars, p. 13–16 • Athletes, p. 18–19 Japense Alps: Hiking, Sea Kayaking, and Climbing Mt. Fuji, p. 20 Permitting of the Central Cascades, p. 34

Classics, p. 27 Mazama Lodge, p. 28 Saying Goodbye, p. 29 Mazama Library, p. 32 Trail Trips, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 38

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon

MITSU IWASAKI Executive Director mitsuiwasaki@mazamas.org

SARAH BRADHAM Operations Director MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@ mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

ADVERTISER INDEX Davis Financial, p. 2 Embark Exploration, p. 21 Green Trails Maps, p. 39 Mountain Shop, p. 2 Next Adventure, p. 23

Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.

sarah@mazamas.org

MONTHLY CONTENT Executive Director's Report, p. 5 Upcoming Activities, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Evening Travel Programs, p. 8 Membership Report, p. 24 Successful Climbers, p. 25 AYM, p. 26

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org

Rab, p. 35 Vaqas Malik Photography, p. 7 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@ mazamas.org TIM SCOTT Education & IT Support timscott@mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org

Cover: AYM admires the Milky Way from the summit of Paulina peak on their annual Labor Day trip. Photo: Reena Clements.

Above: Perfect weather, beautiful views, and a great diverse group on a climb of The Tooth (WA). From left: Forest Fogarty (age 10), Matt Fogarty, Aimee Filimoehala, Tim Scott, and Darren Ferris. Photo: Kerry Loehr

PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor, (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, and Katie Polanshek (publications@ mazamas.org)

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MOUNTAIN EDUCATION ALLIANCE ANNOUNCES NEW CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING CERTIFICATIONS Since the late 1800s, climbers of all types in the United States have pursued the call of the mountains through exploration, mentorship, professional training, and organized volunteer-based training. A small number of these people become professional guides and instructors, following a stringent pathway toward professional certification. Others volunteer their experience and expertise as mentors, leaders, and instructors, both formally and informally. The majority of climbers in the United States are simply looking to learn skills to make mountain sports enjoyable. Both professional guides and volunteer instructors play important roles in education of climbers throughout the United States.

Currently, mountain education and leadership varies from region to region, even within larger community-based organizations. Instruction from experienced volunteers, both organized and informal, helps people become self-sufficient mountain travelers while building a supportive community and opportunities for mentorship, based on shared passion and values. Due to the lack of a governing body setting industry-wide standards, it is difficult to provide a consistent education for this broad base of mountain recreationists. Without a set of standards, organizations determine their own best practices and quality controls, resulting in confusion for people new to these sports as well as general distrust and conflict within the greater community. Moreover, there is no benchmark for those who choose to learn without formal training.

Until recently, there has been no solution for this.

The Mountain Education Alliance, consisting of the American Alpine Club, Colorado Mountain Club, the Mazamas, and the Mountaineers, is a cooperative partnership of some of the oldest and largest volunteer-based climbing and mountaineering organizations in the United States. With the help of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), the Mountain Education Alliance has developed a set of national climbing and mountaineering standards and certification programs to help improve the quality and consistency of volunteer-based climbing education to benefit recreational climbers throughout the United States. The certifications, known as Mountain LEAD (Leadership Education and Development) certificates, focus on leadership and education, and are designed to recognize the most skilled volunteer leaders and teachers in many disciplines of mountain sports, including rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, skiing, and more.

Mountain LEAD certificates are built on the following values: ▶▶ Community: Build trust and camaraderie among mountain recreationists nationwide, and reduce barriers to integrate with other organizations through quality training, expanding the community for all. ▶▶ Consistency: Consistent and reliable training results in well-informed leaders who teach common best practices. Every holder of a LEAD Certificate has been trained and evaluated as an educator who can deliver information in a way that is relevant, engaging, and helpful to their community. ▶▶ Quality: Quality education and leadership is paramount when participating in high-risk, high-consequence activities. LEAD Educators deliver quality education to their students and help to increase the number of responsible and prepared climbers.

Oversight from the UIAA and the Mountain Education Alliance ensures that these certificates will continue to meet rigorous standards as the LEAD program evolves over time. ▶▶ Volunteerism: The LEAD Program provides a certification track and support system that provides stability and quality to volunteer mountain education.

The Mountain Education Alliance, with input from volunteers and professional organizations, created the Mountain LEAD Program to support mountain recreation throughout the United States. These certificates and programs are vetted and approved through a rigorous audit process by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA). With these certificates, the United States will have a benchmark for training and education in mountain sports, and its recipients will be recognized as certified educators not only in the United States, but across the globe.

Starting in fall 2019, The Mountain Education Alliance will accept applicants to become the first to receive certifications in one of four disciplines: Top-Rope Climbing, Single Pitch Sport Climbing, and Single Pitch Traditional Climbing. More certifications will be released in the future.

The certification process requires existing experience, but aspiring educators are encouraged to enter the program and gain the skills and experience necessary for certification. The Mountain Education Alliance aspires to support all interested parties in achieving certification. To learn more about the requirements to enter a Mountain LEAD certification program, contact a member organization of the Mountain Education Alliance.

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EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR'S REPORT

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oday (Friday, September 13) completes my second week as Executive Director of the Mazamas. Over these two short weeks, I have felt the strongest sense of camaraderie borne of time together in learning, chasing dreams, reaching summits, and sometimes suffering in the mountains.

Dropping in on committee meetings, listening to lectures, and a weekend at Acker Rock, I am deeply impressed and inspired by the passion, engagement, and work of all of you, volunteers and members that make up the Mazamas.

Having been a part of the mountain community as climber, trail runner, and ski tourer for over 30 years, I am surprised to learn the depth of impact the Mazamas have had in shaping mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. This, I believe, may be a reflection of my impulse to quietly go about my mountain aspirations, as well as the Mazamas impulse to quietly go about its business too.

In this time of transition, mine into the Executive Director role and the organization’s by force of time and the evolving world around us, ensuring we stay relevant to continue to fulfill our aspirations while serving the public interest (and climbers everywhere) will require our evolution as an organization too.

As I take the helm and navigate the Mazamas and its important history in American mountaineering, setting a course to ensure that we remain relevant as we have for 125 years in responding to, informing, and shaping the direction of mountain culture is among my highest priorities. I would like to hear and learn from all of you; you are the members and experts. Your experiences, perspectives, thoughts, and aspirations will help to inform my understanding and the direction of the Mazamas as we move forward.

I will continue to drop in on committee meetings, events, courses, and outings whenever I can over the next few months­—please feel encouraged to share your experiences and perspectives when I do. In addition, I am planning to attend the Street Ramble on Tuesday, October 29, departing from REI at 6 p.m.

Lastly, I will be at the Annual General Meeting on Monday, October 7. Please feel encouraged to come a little early or stay a bit later to connect. And if none of these opportunities work, please reach out to find a time to grab a cup of coffee, share a belay, or walk in MAZAMA ANNUAL MEETING the mountains.

October 7, 6–9 p.m.

FEATURED EVENT

Thank you, Mitsu Iwasaki Mazamas Executive Director

Each year, on the first Monday in October, the Mazamas holds its annual meeting. This is an opportunity for members to come together to hear about what the Mazamas has accomplished in the past year, where it is going in the future, as well as to hear the outcome of the election. Dinner is provided; please make sure to sign up so we can get an adequate food count! Register at tinyurl.com/MazAnnual2019.

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UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS ADVANCED ROCK INFORMATION NIGHT Oct. 3 from 6:30–8 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

PARTNER EVENT: UNCLIMB NIGHT Oct. 6 from 4–6 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center

The Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes. Join us to get all the details on the Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Program for 2020. mazamas.org/ar.

This event is led by a partner organization. Are you a part of the BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) community and/or the LGBTQ community? Wild Diversity invites you Un-Climb Night, a place where you can unlearn everything you have experienced in climbing culture, and be a part of building a community centered around you. Get more info online at tinyurl.com/unclimboctober2019.

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS 2019–20 SEASONS BEGINS ON OCT. 16: FULL DETAILS ON PAGE 8.

PRESENTATION ON MT. HOOD TRAILS Oct. 25 at 7 p.m. at the MMC Come to the Holman Auditorium at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 7 p.m. Friday October 25 to enjoy learning about the past, present, and future of the trails on Mt. Hood with Tom Kloster and Steve Kruger.

The evening will begin with renowned Oregon nature photographer Tom Kloster giving us a history of trails on Mt. Hood.

His presentation is richly illustrated with photographs from his own collection of historical photos, as well as with his own work. Do you know what the first trail was on Mt. Hood, and how it came to be?

You may be surprised. How did people get to the trails, when there were no roads leading up to Mt. Hood? Who built trails, and why?

You have probably seen some of Tom Kloster’s work, since it shows up in many of the places we Mazamas go. Have you ever returned to a trailhead after unsuccessful attempts to capture on camera the fragile beauty of fairy slipper orchids, or the graceful course of a small stream, and looked for the first time at the educational plaque, displaying exquisite photos of the stream and orchids, and noticed the attribution—Tom Kloster. In addition to his work as photographer, Tom is a founding member of Trailkeepers of Oregon and continues to serve on the TKO board.

The second half of the evening will focus on the current Mt. Hood trail system, how it is and is not maintained, and what plans for future trails are in the works. Steve Kruger, Executive Director of Trailkeepers of Oregon, will be giving this part of the presentation, bringing us up to date on what needs to be done for our current trails, which ones we could lose, and proposed trails we could help to build. You may learn of trails and hikes you have not previously heard about, waiting for you to explore.

Fellow Mazamas, all of you who love to hike and climb on our own Mt. Hood, the mountain where we started, and where many of you qualified to become a Mazama, you will NOT want to miss this presentation. Sponsored by the Conservation Committee, this event is free, but donations of $5 or more to the work of Trailkeepers of Oregon are gladly accepted. Don’t miss this look into the past, present, and future trails of Mt. Hood!

Right: High Bridge in in 1917. Photo: Mazamas.

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VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES THINK SNOW!

Y

ou felt that first hint of seasons changing in September, didn’t you? It’s time to plan ahead for the next big change: winter will come! The Mazamas offers a multi-level school for Nordic skiing, from the most basic beginner to those ready to head for the ungroomed backcountry. Look for registration information in the November Bulletin.

Meanwhile, we need your help to offer to continue offering our full line of classes. We need instructors who know their kick and glide and want to share that rhythm with newcomers. We need instructors comfortable following a groomed run down gentle hills and around curves in the road. We support our instructors with sample lesson plans and a day on the snow with a certified instructor. Consider sharing your skills with others who want the freedom of the snowy hills.

We are also looking for committee members who want to work on putting this school together. Skiing ability is not a requirement for assembling class rosters and recruiting students and instructors!

Questions? Email the Nordic Committee at: nordic@mazamas.org

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST Do you want to pitch in for our biggest event of the year? Head over to portlandalpinefest.org/volunteer to signup for a volunteer shift during the festival.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it is even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team. Inquire at publications@mazamas.org.

LIBRARY ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helps, but is not required. Please contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager, at mathew@ mazamas.org to learn more.

TREE PLANTING: SANDY RIVER DELTA Saturday, Nov. 2, 8:45 a.m.–1 p.m. ome help plant 1,200 native trees and shrubs at the Sandy River Delta on Saturday November 2nd from 8:45 a.m. to 1 p.m. The Sandy River Watershed Council and Friends of Trees are planting for the sixth year of Community Planting Days at the Delta, a 1,500 acre natural park located off I-84 at exit 18. In the past 15 years more than one million native trees and shrubs have been planted and 1,000 acres have been restored.

C

This planting event is open to humans and dogs alike. Well behaved, four-legged friends on leashes are welcome to attend. Register at friendsoftrees.org. Friends of Trees provide the training, gloves, tools, and a table full of yummy snacks and coffee.

For more details contact Kate Evans at kateevans97@gmail.com or Kirsten Jacobson at kirstencjacobson@icloud.com of the Mazama Conservation Committee. Also let us know if you are interested in carpooling from the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

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EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center. You’ll virtually travel to every corner of the globe as our dynamic speakers immerse you in their experience through photos, video, and great storytelling.

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. View the entire season’s schedule at mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms.

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland, Ore. Programs Start at 7 p.m.

America's Triple Crown Trails, Oct. 16 Join us to hear Barney Scout Mann as he shares the remarkable tale and photographs from Pete L. Parsons, the first through hiker of the Continental Divide Trail in 1924. Scout, the author of several books and articles on the Pacific Crest Trail, and Continental Divide Trail and himself a "Triple Crowner," will enthrall you with Pete's story, photographs, and diaries of this early adventurer. The collection of Pete Parson's effects will be added to the Mazama Archives for further use and study.

Barney Scout Mann is well respected in the hiking and mountaineering community, having served on the boards of both the Pacific Crest Trail Association and the Continental Divide Trail Coalition, and is now President of the Partnership for the National Trails System. Many members may also know Scout (and wife Frodo) from his hosting of hundreds of hikers every spring at his own home in southern California as hikers start their quest of thru hiking the PCT.

Japanese Climb of Mt. Fuji, October 23

7 Summits of the Moon, October 30

America's Great Mountain Trails, November 6

In August 2018, Keith Daellenbach and his pre-teen son, Micah, went on an adventure to Japan. There they hiked through the northern Japanese Alps, enjoying a high mountain onsen (hot springs) on their hut to hut journey. They sea kayaked on the Seto Inland Sea and swam in its warm waters. Along the way, they visited cultural treasures like Takayama, Hiroshima, and Kyoto. Before returning to Tokyo, they climbed to the summit of Mt. Fuji via a southern approach and traversed down the mountain’s northern side. It was a father-son tour they will not forget, and they hope you can join them for this presentation on the Land of the Rising Sun.

Don’t miss this opportunity to be a space tourist of the 22nd century! Join Bob McGown, MSci, on a scientific adventure tour of the mountains of the solar system.

Some of the mountain ranges of the Moon are named after ranges on Earth; Bob will show us the parallels and possibilities.

Geological mysteries are being uncovered by rovers, like the mystical wall on Miranda, the K2 of Mars, which already has climbing routes proposed by planetary geologists from the University of Washington. Some of these solar system routes may be climbed by astronauts and droids. If humanity establishes an offworld city on Mars, our descendants will likely explore the mountains, caves and oceans of other worlds.

In this stunning slideshow, awardwinning author and photographer Tim Palmer will take us on a tour of the most spectacular and revealing mountain hikes in America. His stunning photos tell stories of trail walking adventures, spanning five decades, from Katahdin to Olympus, from Denali to El Yunque. Tim is eager to field questions about his mountain adventures and will have copies of his books available for purchase. Tim is the recipient of the National Outdoor Book Award, the Communicator of the Year Award from the National Wildlife Federation, the Ansel Adams Photography Award from the Sierra Club, and other honors. He lives in Port Orford, Oregon. Learn more at www. timpalmer.org

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Japanese Alps Hiking, Sea Kayaking, and Climbing Mt. Fuji

by Keith K. Daellenbach

“D

ad, what are we doing tomorrow?” was the question from my 12 year old son, Micah, as we started our day exploring Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan. Sometimes I purposefully don’t fully describe all aspects of a tour in part to retain some of the mystery and, in some cases, to temper anxiety. In this case, the answer was straightforward, “Well, we’re making our way back to the capital Tokyo and, in our direct path, lies Mt. Fuji. We are going to have to traverse over its summit to make our way back to the capital.” It was August 2018.

Our son has explored the Peruvian Andes; some cultural capitals of Western Europe; hiked and climbed in the Swiss Alps, Dolomites, and Canadian Rockies; and set view to the long vistas of the American West. In the fall of 2017, my wife, Amy, and I planned our next family vacation to introduce our son to Asia and its rich culture. I could think of no better initiation than the Land of the Rising Sun. We started planning and secured airline tickets early on. Then, as summer approached, the health of Amy’s Father, Ted, took a downward turn and, Amy being a nurse, decided she would remain in the States to support his care. Our “all for one and one for all” tour would have to wait for different year and we started to figure out how to walk back our flight reservations. Eventually, Amy thought just Micah and I should go with the general expectation

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that Ted would remain stable until return. In the end, we took the unorthodox path which was to peel off for Asia leaving Amy stateside.

Micah and I boarded the plane at PDX with excitement and the Captain singled Micah out asking if he wanted to see the cockpit. As a mechanical engineer, I immediately jumped in and said “Of course!” (so did Micah). The Captain sat Micah down in the pilot seat and loaned him his cover which Micah wore askew as he grabbed the yoke. An auspicious start to our FatherSon adventure. Upon landing at Narita, we made our way into the capital, dropped off our packs at our lodging, and travelled forthwith to the Owl Café Akiba Fukurou; very Japanese. We walked into the small establishment filled with owls of all sizes from around the world. Classical music was quietly playing and the walls

were painted all white. We were supplied thick gloves and some of the less ornery owls were allowed to perch on our hands.

Food was not actually served and the proprietors spoke in hushed voices. Micah, in his jet-lagged state surveyed the premises and exclaimed, “Dad, what is this place?!" Surprising a pre-teen was getting harder but I hit the mark. Later that evening, we walked around Akihabara pulsing with neon signs, the electronic district which to Micah’s glee had stores filled with gaming consoles. We wandered through a glass door at street level and were met with a wall of loud, explosive music and young men playing pachinko, a vertical pinball-like machine.

We got kicked out of that establishment because Micah was underage. To top off our first evening in Japan, we made our way back to our lodging near Kanda Station, a “capsule”

hotel in which only men were allowed. We each had a capsule sleeping compartment about three feet high by three feet wide. Think an elongated dog crate that is clean, comfortable, and affordable.

Travel with me and one gets lux accommodations. Micah’s head was, by now, spinning. Mission accomplished.

Early the next morning we were up and on our way out of Tokyo by train to Hida, coined the “Japanese Alps” (Nihon Arupusu) by Englishman and Anglican missionary Walter Weston who wrote the seminal “Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps” published in 1896. I wanted to spend some of our tour in the mountains above tree-line but found obtaining reliable information in English elusive. Fellow Mazama, John Osaki of Mountain Hiking Holidays thankfully had helpful suggestions. I had

thought about trekking the ancient Kumano Kodo on Kii peninsula south of Kyoto, a cultural treasure and pilgrimage route of the Shugendo. Here a life of mountain ascetics based on obtaining magical powers through physical hardship had an appeal for my curiosity but the thought of a trek through mystical forests lacking expansive views might be lost on Micah and me.

Instead, we were bound for Hakuba which was the site of downhill ski races in the 1998 Nagano winter Olympics.

From the train station, we took the Alpico’s Highland Shuttle bus to Sarukura Lodge (Sarukuwaso, 4,036 feet). There a signboard notified us of mountain accidents including “5 deaths” which I attributed to the Daisekkei (“Great Snow Alley”), a steep couloir with year round snow, that gained the high alps above. We would not take that route but, instead, we made our way on a 3.8 mile hike through the steamy vegetation to the Hakuba Yari Onsen Goya (www.hakubasanso.co.jp), a hut with one of the highest onsens in Japan at 6,595 feet. An onsen is a geothermal spring and this is one of the highest in the country. Its catchment formed a small infinity pool looking over the high Japanese Alps. I had read up on onsen cultural practices and knew the ritual washing and entering the onsen in the buff would be a hurdle for both me and Micah. Now at the hut, I told Micah, “Look, we are the only foreigners here and no one knows us so we might as well just get on with it” which we did. When in Rome…

A couple other Japanese men were in the onsen with us, one of whom, after getting over his surprise at meeting American tourists in this remote onsen told us of the Japanese saying

hadaka no tsukiai which literally means “friendship in nudity." This roughly translates to a meaning that when all pretense is removed in an onsen one can have an honest and sincere friendship. It was a nice sentiment as we broiled away in the 111°F water.

The next morning at breakfast, an older Japanese lady made it a point to politely speak in broken English to us about the dangers of the steep sections above the hut.

We would need to use chains bolted into the rock to ascend the steep rock sections to gain the high ridge above. I thought we’d be fine but we were very appreciative of her maternal care and thanked her with domo arigato and bows. After another glorious onsen soak overlooking the mountains, we were on our way up to the backbone of the Hida high above. We did have to clamber up some steep rock sections (easy 4th class) that were protected by chains.

Eventually, we broke above tree line at 7,500 feet where we saw a raicho (ptarmigan) in the krummholz at the floor of a broad cirque below the ridge—the chains now behind us. We gained the ridge at 9,000 feet and and headed north climbing over the summits of Hakuba Yarigatake (9,525 feet) and Shakusi-dake (9,226 feet) on the way over 3.2 miles of trail to our second night’s lodging at Hakuba Sanso Hut (9,318 feet, www.hakuba-sanso. co.jp) and a welcome Sapporo beer from Portland’s sister city as dispensed from a vending machine. This was a much larger lodge capable of housing over a hundred hikers. Both “huts” offered breakfast and dinners of simple traditional Japanese fare (rice, miso soup, fish, and some mystery items) as

well as obento (lunch boxes).

The third day took us over the summit of Shirouma-dake (”White Horse”, 9,621 feet) with grand views north to the Sea of Japan and along a ridge over which a plume of condensation was forming as the warm, humid air from the jungle below rose and met cooler air at our altitude. On this 5.6 mile hike, we passed Oike Sansou Hut (7,840 feet) beside a beautiful mountain lake and down a bouldery path to the trailhead at the Tsugaike Visitor Center (6,180 feet) which is a few minutes’ walk from the top of the the Tsugaike Panorama Ropeway. This multi-segment tram descends all the way to the village of Tsugaike Kogen and the bottom station at 2,986 feet. From there, we took a bus back to Hakuba for our lodging

at Hakuba Station Guest House.

If I had it to do over again, I would have left a portion of our belongings at the simple but practicable Guest House and trekked with only the necessary items rather than all of our belongings. That evening we rented bikes from the Guest House and biked through the country side filled with water canals and water-logged fields where we were able to inspect the grass that grows rice for the first time. We dined at the charming Sarugaku restaurant near the Olympic ski jump on traditional soba (buckwheat) noodles, grilled chicken and, for me, cool clear Daisekkei sake.

The following day, we made our way the other (west) side of Hida to Takayama (a.k.a. “Little Kyoto”) along the Miya River. It contains Edo period merchant

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Mt. Fuji, continued from previous page shops and architecture in the town’s old quarter. We rode bikes out to the Hida Folk Village (Hida no Sato) a couple miles outside to see the gassho (“praying hands”) houses and buildings which relied on monumental wooden beams and thick thatched roofs to weather long winters with deep snow. We celebrated our mountain hiking with an amazing meal at the Kyoya, a traditional Japanese restaurant serving more courses than could be counted including hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled on a magnolia leaf), sansai (mountain vegetables), and grilled hida-gyu (hida beef). We wished Amy could be with us!

From Takayama, we travelled to eastern Honshu to visit Hiroshima, a somber site which marks the instant annihilation of 70,000 people by the detonation of Little Boy dropped from Enola Gay, a U.S. B-29 Superfortress bomber.

The date was 6 August 1945 and it was the first atomic bomb detonated in an armed conflict. The result was horrifying. This was preceded by the Allied leader’s Potsdam Declaration on 26 July which called for Japan’s unconditional surrender or face “prompt and utter destruction." Japan was promised a peaceful government according to the “the freely expressed will of the Japanese people” and Japan would not “be enslaved as a race or destroyed as a nation."

This demand was met with no response. After a second bomb was dropped on Nagasaki on 9 August, Emperor Hirohito urged Japan to surrender on 14 August in a radio address, noting “the enemy has begun to employ a new and most cruel

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bomb, the power of which to do damage is, indeed, incalculable, taking the toll of many innocent lives." On 2 September, Japan formally surrendered on the deck of the USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay. World War II was over. It was a reminder of the grim cost of war and it led to deep conversations with my son as we took in all we saw including the devastated Genbaku (Atom Bomb Dome, formerly: Industrial Promotion Hall) a few blocks from the hypocenter.

The immense vermillion torii gate marking the entrance to the Itsukushima Shinto Shrine near Hiroshima at the Miyajima tidal flats was a beautiful site not to be missed as was the Himeji-jo (a.k.a., Shirasagi-jo or White Egret Castle) at Himeji. This seven story castle rises imperially above the plain and was completed in 1609 the same year as settlers were starving at the Jamestown colony.

Amazingly, one can climb from the complex of fortifications at the base to viewing the roof gargoyles at eye level.

We went on an all-day sea kayaking adventure in the Seto Naikai (Seto Inland Sea) with a guide out of Tomonoura. We paddled down to the Bandai-ji (Buddist) Temple perched on a promontory overlooking the sea channels and islands.

Like a ghost, a ray appeared momentarily below our twoperson craft. For dinner, our guide found the secluded cove of an island and we gathered drift wood for a fire over which our guide prepared a rustic, delicious fish soup. Micah and I swam in the warm water and each time we submerged we could hear what I took to be clicking sounds of fish foraging

off coral.

By shinkansen (bullet train) we flew along through Honshu, arriving in Kyoto the imperial capital of Japan for just over one thousand years starting in 794 A.D. It is in a basin surrounded by mountains and was modeled after China’s Tang Dynasty capital Xian. To see the vast treasures of the city we, over a couple days, rented bikes from near Kyoto station and had a ball. Getting around by bus or subway is, I suppose, possible but by bike one can take in the scale this UNESCO treasure like the Arashiyama (walkways through a bamboo grove), Ryoan-ji (Zen Buddist rock garden), and Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion). For every treasure on earth like Kyoto, one will invariably find that place or experience with a special personal memory or meaning. For me it was wandering the gardens at the Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) shortly before closing when the hordes of tourists had departed. There we saw young couples promenading arm in arm, the women dressed in traditional beautiful kimonos.

At Fushimi Inari-Taisha, a veritable tunnel of thousands of torii gates sweeping up mountain foot paths was a homage to the harvest and the red fox who is always found at times of rice harvest. It was in Kyoto at our ryokan we learned that, in the presence of his family, Ted had unexpectedly and peacefully died. We found this in a stark email message from Amy that we read on our tablet. Across the largest body of water on Earth, I tried to think of a way to console my broken hearted wife but words did not suffice. Life is fleeting and unpredictable. I recalled

the many adventures Ted and I shared interrogating creeks and rivers fly fishing for the elusive trout, telling stories about family and growing up, rock hounding, and reading poetry in some of the most remote and lonely corners of Oregon around campfires. I was lucky to have had him as a father-inlaw. Sadness and tears mingled with our Japan adventure.

Micah and I found a way to soldier on.

Now, coming back to Micah's inquiry above about tomorrow’s plans, we were to finish our stay in Kyoto the next day and would be leaving in the late afternoon again by shinkansen towards Tokyo but first we’d climb Fuji. There is a saying in Japan, “A wise man climbs Mt. Fuji once, only a fool climbs it twice.” I had climbed Fuji on a previous business trip to Japan [off season, apparently illegal, Mazama Bulletin, “All Business on Fuji-san”, 94(2): 1-3, February 2012] but wanted to give it another go on a different ascent route with my son. We made our way by train to Shin-Fuji (Shizuoka) then to the Fujinomiya Trail 5th Station at 7,790 feet. After napping outside on the veranda of a multi-purpose building and pounding rice, sushi, and fluids, we were underway up the trail. Climbing Fuji all night long is a little surreal. While not difficult, it took us seven hours to slowly climb the 4,375 feet up the south side climber’s trail, with intermittent naps, to the summit crater rim where we viewed the sunrise over the Pacific Ocean. It was a brilliant sight and we dedicated our climb to GrandTed. Along with the rising sun, a lenticular started to form over the summit (3,775.6 meters/12,388

feet) so we moved along and navigated our way through a smoke-like cloud past the several crater rim structures (café, Shinto shrine, lodging hut, post office) to the actual summit. From there the wind really started to pick up speed so we made our way counter clockwise around the crater rim for our descent of the Yoshida Trail (north side) to complete our traverse of the mountain. Down at the Kawajuchiko 5th Station, we jumped on a bus which took us to Fujisan, then a private Fujikyu Railways line to Otsuki (nearly lost my U.S. Passport but found it at last minute—crisis averted!), and then a JR Line train to Tokyo’s Shinjuku station, one of the busiest in the world, and on to our lodging.

While in Tokyo, we took a class at a dojo and trained in with kendo (wooden sword) fighting and shuriken (throwing stars) learning samurai traditions from a ninja master. Micah loved it. I loved the master’s 400 year old samurai sword.

We also took a ukiyo-e (woodblock) class in Asakusa near the Kaminarimon Gate from which, after serial applications of color from different blocks finally materialized as a playful scene of Momotaro ("Peachy Boy"), a hero of Japanese folklore, with his companions, a monkey, pheasant, and dog.

We met gracious Eiko-san (Mother of our sister-in-law Yumi who is married to Jeff, Amy’s brother) and family relations for an unbelievable and spectacular dinner and, later, Mamoru and Junco, a family in western Tokyo.

Through an organization that encourages Japanese families

to host foreign visitors for dinner (www.nagomivisit. com), I made arrangements to meet Junco at the train station in their Tokyo suburb Toyoda. Junco dropped us off at the town’s onsen while she finished preparations for an amazing dinner. By now, Micah and I felt like onsen experts and enjoyed the soak then we met Mamoru, Junco’s husband, and Hikaru, a boy Micah’s age for dinner at their home. They welcomed us for an amazing meal and Hikaru and Micah hit it off even though they could speak not a word of each other’s language. Evidently, they were able to speak in the universal language of pre-teens, Fortnite, a computer game.

These visits with Japanese hosts were highlights of our time in Japan. The next day after a taking in some kabuki theater so strange and foreign to us but beautiful, we left Japan and flew back to Portland.

Micah and I had a fatherson tour in the Land of the Rising Son we will not soon forget. Far from home, half a world away from those we love, we found adventure in a Far East land of amazing culture, history, food, geography, and wonderfully warm and welcoming people.

In this ancient land, I watched and could see my son starting to develop his own mind and predilections, talents and adventurous spirit. He was starting to grow up. Yes, life is fleeting—and a wonder.

Keith will be presenting his and Micah's Japan travels at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on October 23 at 7 p.m. during our Wednesday Travel Programs.

OCTOBER 2019 23

e m o c l e W

New Members!

NEW MEMBERS: 41 Eliot Allen—Middle Sister Ryan Banning—Grand Teton Kathy Belden—South Sister Sean Brady—Mt. St Helens Richard Buell—Mt. St Helens Lisa Carlson—South Sister Anders Eskil Carlson—South Sister Sean Coster—South Sister Valerie Duggan—South Sister Kati Dunn—Eagle Cap Donna Ellenz—Mt. St Helens Brendan Farrell—Mt. Shuksan Scott Gibson—South Sister Ryan Good—Mt. Rainier Arielle Gordon—Mt. St Helens Andrew Harger—Eldorado Nicolya Hargrove—Mt. St Helens Andrew Howery—South Sister Cameron Hunt—Mt. Hood Madison Immel—Quetrupillán Michael Karl—Mt. Rainier

Bob Keranen—Sahale Peak Johnny Kilroy—Mt. Hood Kristen Little—South Sister Greg Longfellow—Mt. Whitney Mia Mahedy—South Sister Shepard McAninch—Popocatépetl Kristen McClellan—Mt. St Helens Emily Nemeth—Mt. St Helens Francis Obst—South Sister Kristen Perry—Mt. Hood Warren Prosser—Mt. Baker KC Roland—Mt. St Helens Michael Cott Schneider—South Sister Amanda Schwecherl—Mt. St Helens Paul Seidel—Mt. St Helens Parsa Shahinpoor—South Sister Betsy Steinhart—South Sister Michael Stenger—Mt. St. Helens Ann Woodruff—South Sister Oscar Woodruff—South Sister

REINSTATEMENTS: 3

Stephanie Baur (2012), Sarah DeVita-McBride (2016), & Erika Waters (2016)

DECEASED: 3

Allen Sandstrom (1970), Chaitanya Sathe (2015), & Barbara Wall (1956)

Total Membership as of August 31: 3,557 (2019), 3,527 (2018)

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS

O

ur members are part of a 125year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation.

Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

RENEW Your Membership It's time to renew your Mazama membership 2020! 2019 memberships expire on October 31, 2019. To ensure you continue receiving your Mazama benefits, renew before your membership lapses.

Renewal is a simple process. Go to mazamas.org. Click on Login.

Once logged in, go to your dashboard and click on Renew Your Membership. Follow the prompts. That's all there is to it! Your membership will be renewed for another year.

24 MAZAMAS

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS August 18—Ingalls Peak, South Face. Kerry Loehr, Leader.

Lynne Pedersen, Assistant. Jeremiah Biddle, Karen Graves, Andrew Leaf, Gary Riggs.

August 24—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Julie Kentosh, Leader.

Shane Harlson, Assistant. Tom Bode, Brian Boyd, Kristi Carver, Sandor Lau, Shweta Mokashi, Rick Norwood, William O’Brien, Nhat Pham, Jordan Polzin, Adriana Vintila.

August 24—Castle & Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge. Larry Beck, Leader. Stephen Zadrozny, Assistant. Aardra Athalye, Chris Jensen, Shiva Kiran, Kevin Kohberger, Jamie McGilvray, Caitlin Smigelski.

August 25—Plummer & Denman, Standard. Larry Beck, Leader. Stephen Zadrozny, Assistant. Chris Jensen, Kevin Kohberger, Jamie McGilvray, Caitlin Smigelski.

August 25—North Sister, South Ridge/Hayden Glacier.

Long Ong, Leader. Darren Ferris, Assistant. Daven Berg, Thomas Clarke, Jessica Minifie, Bryan Joseph Oates, Mark Stave.

August 25—South Sister, Devil’s Lake. George Shay, Leader, Rae Lantsberger, Assistant.

John Dusking, Michael Frank, Kevin Green, Kirsten Jacobson, Shannon Leahy, Michael Moy, Bill Tanguay, Melissa Tanguay, Jordan Zandi.

August 25—Mt. Bailey, Standard Route. Sandor Lau, Leader. Shane Harlson, Assistant.

Tom Bode, Brian Boyd, Julie Kentosh, Shweta Mokashi, Rick Norwood, William O'Brien, Nhat Pham, Jordan Polzin, Adriana Vintila.

August 30—Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Thomas Miller, Leader. Christine Troy, Assistant.

Toby Contreras, Milton Diaz, Eddie Ferrer, Kent Kimball, Courtney Rust, Christine Troy, Ken Skeen.

August 31—South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Alex Lockard, Leader. Shane Harlson, Assistant.

Mikey Austin, Daven Berg, Lacey Breton, Dave Carroll, Ritchie Farmer, Calista Galarneaux, Jeremy Galarneaux, Shweta Mokashi, Richard Smith.

Sept. 1—Broken Top, NW Ridge. Mikey Austin, Leader.

Shane Harlson, Assistant. Steven Becker, Lacey Breton, Jeremy Galarneaux, Alex Lockard, Shweta Mokashi, Jordan Polzin, Richard Smith.

Sept. 1—North Sister, South Ridge/Hayden Glacier. Andrew Leaf, Leader. John Lombard, Assistant. Brittany Eriksson, Michelle McConnell, Linke Rejholec, Mikel Rhodes, Terry Sayre, Michael Valentine.

Sept. 3—Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader.

Jan-Erik Fougli, Assistant. Shimran George, Bruce McKelvie, Jarek Sochaki, Lillie Stewart, Grace Taylor, Chie Togo.

Sept. 6—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Gary Bishop, Leader. John Sterbis, Assistant. Nina Ferrari, Benjamin Goff, Dylan Hallman, Becky Landeros, Ashley Reed, Ayama Tobin.

Sept. 7—Acker Rock, Pregrine Traverse. Matt Sundling, Leader.

Jesse Applegate & Justin Rotherham, Assistants. Lori Coyner, Alyssa Hursh, Kristen Jackson, Kerry Loehr, Traci Manning, Guy Wettstein, Robin Wilcox.

Sept. 7—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Josh Lockerby, Leader.

Lawrence Welsh, Assistants. Kasey Albano, Andrew Behr, Christabel Behr, Bo Lockhart, Karin Masunari, Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Will Newbill, Ken Park, Terry Sayre, Siddhesh Shirodker.

Sept. 7—Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Long Ong, Leader.

Matthew Bell, Assistant. Margie Hendryx, Bryan Joseph Oates, Rachel Smith, jOaN WaLLace, Mark Wilson.

Sept. 9—Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Gary Ballou, Leader. John Meckel, Assistant. Toby Contreras, Laura Guderyahn, Nick Ostini, Jorgen Rufner.

Sept. 14—North Sister, SE Ridge. Greg Scott, Leader. Tim Scott, Assistant Leader. Lacey Jones, Bill Stein, Hannah Wentz.

Sept. 14—Broken Top, NW Ridge. Bill McLoughlin, Leader.

Toby Contreras, Assistant. Melanie Bower, Verna Burden, Kyle DeHart, Susan Dixon, Kevin Green, Forest Brook Menke-Thielman, Christine Troy.

Sept. 14—Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Andrew Leaf, Leader. Karen Graves, Assistant Leader. Kasey Albano, Clinton Carpenter, Josh Hay, Kirsten Jacobson, Nhat Pham, Katie Zajicek.

Sept. 21—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Glenn Widener, Leader. Brinda Ganesh, Assistant Leader. Prasanna Narendran, Shashikiran Konnur Sampathkumar, Siddhesh Shirodker, Scott Stevenson, Ankush Varma.

OCTOBER 2019 25

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

LEADER SPOTLIGHT: NHAT PHAM HOMETOWN The answer is a bit complicated. I grew up in Vietnam, came to the US as a teenager, spent some time in the Bay Area in California, then 10 years in sunny San Diego, came back to the Bay Area for a few years. I have been in Portland since July 2018, but have fallen in love with this town ever since.

YEARS WITH THE MAZAMAS? I have gone on hikes with the Mazamas since August 2018, taken Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) during Winter 2019, but did not technically become a Mazamas member until I summited my first glaciated peak (Mt. Saint Helens) in May 2019.

WHAT TRIPS ARE YOU MOST EXCITED TO LEAD? I am a sucker for a beautiful view, so I tend to like hikes that involve some kind of summit (top of a mountain, butte, etc.), or waterfall. I am also pretty excited about cross country ski trips, and hopefully will have opportunities to lead ski trips this winter season.

WHAT IS ONE THING THAT YOU ALWAYS BRING ON A HIKE THAT IS NOT ONE OF THE 10 ESSENTIALS? I installed a phone holder on one of my trekking poles, and have been bringing it along to all of my hikes. It is very useful for capturing selfies or functions as a monopod for group photos.

WHEN YOU WERE A KID, WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GREW UP AND WHY? I am a geek at heart, so I always wanted to get into some sort of engineering career. I did computer science in college, and currently am going to OHSU for a Master's in Clinical Informatics.

WHAT IS ONE SURPRISING THING ABOUT YOURSELF THAT PEOPLE DON'T USUALLY KNOW ABOUT YOU? I have studied and can speak about 4 languages, but the proficiency for each varies.

PEOPLE SHOULD SIGN UP FOR A TRIP WITH YOU IF ...

They have an open mind, a love for nature and enjoy good conversations. I came to Mazamas to make new friends and to find people whom I can travel with. Being an immigrant who comes from a different culture and working in the health care field, I have learned that people have more in common than they are different. I want to encourage more people in the underserved communities to go out and explore nature.

IS THAT A RADIO THAT YOU CARRY ON YOUR PACK? Yes. I am an amateur radio operator, and a member of Summit on the Air (SOTA), a group of ham radio enthusiasts who also have great love for the mountains.

Members of this group usually go up a mountain to test two-way communication with others on another mountain or below in town. My record on the 2-meter radio band is 150 miles. The ham radio also comes in very handy as an emergency backup when a cell phone goes out of range.

26 MAZAMAS

AYM enjoys a view of the sisters on their hike to No Name Lake led by Rachel Smith.

WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!

Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

CLASSICS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS To contact the Classics: Chair Flora Huber at 503-6585710 or flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

ADVANCED ROCK (AR) Application period begins Dec. 3 Class Dates: Feb. 22–May 9, 2020 Application Open Date: Dec. 3, 2019 at 9 a.m.

LEADING EVENTS IN NOVEMBER

Application Close Date: Dec. 17, 2019

If you want to lead an event please contact the Classics at classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

Skills Test: Jan. 10, 2020

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Next meeting is November 25 from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library. Check the Bulletin or the website.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

FRI. DEC. 6: HOLIDAY LUNCHEON Speaker Mitsu Iwasaki, our new Executive Director.

25-year and 50-year pins will be given out. A $5 donation will be asked to help defray costs. Please register to attend.

Only 80 spaces available.

Prerequisites: Leading outside within the last year, lead card at a local gym, and more. See website.

Badges Earned: Traditional Rock Climbing, High-Angle Rock Rescue, Multi-Pitch Techniques, Course: AR The Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on vertical rock. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes.

The AR program is comprised of a series of lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. The lectures are supported by weekend field sessions, coordinated and taught by skilled, experienced climbers.

The Advanced Rock program offers you the opportunity to meet new and experienced rock climbers, as you learn about climbing areas and destinations.

Information & requirements, schedule, and application information are available at: mazamas.org/advancedrock Toby Contreras belaying on Staender Ridge at Smith Rock. Photo by Ryan Johnson

OCTOBER 2019 27

MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings

by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager

T

he lodge is now open Thursday noon through Monday noon throughout the "school year." For availability and to make reservations, go to mazamalodge. org. This winter we have President's Day weekend available for Mazamas, and the last weekend of February is wide open for reservations. Winter Family Day will be Saturday, March 7.

FALL WORK PARTY The fall work party is Saturday, October 26 from 9 a.m.–2 p.m. with a complimentary lunch for all the volunteers and a voucher for a future overnight stay at Mazama Lodge, or stay that Friday or Saturday night at the lodge. We will be getting our wood supply ready for winter, installing our snow shutters, and many other tasks for any ability. If you have a chainsaw please bring it. For additional questions concerning the work party please email or call our lodge chairman Bob Stayton 503-799-0785 or rstayton@comcast.net.

Welcome back Brett and Aaron who will be the lodge caretakers this winter. This will be their 5th season caretaking at Mazama Lodge. Last winter they worked up at Goldmyer Hot Springs and were snowed in for over a month. They are looking forward to another season at Mazama and are pleased they won’t be 20 miles in deep snow to the nearest trailhead.

HAMILTON MOUNTAIN CHUCKWAGON, OCT. 19 For nearly seven years Rick Amodeo and I have led various “Chuck Wagon” hikes throughout the Mt. Hood National Forest.

Because of scheduling conflicts this year we were unable to plan our usual chuckwagon trips. This year we are planning something a little simpler that requires far less time. On Saturday, October 19 we are planning a one-day hike up Hamilton Mountain, starting from the WPA picnic shelter in the parking area. We will be serving hot coffee and pastries from 8 a.m.–9 a.m., followed by the hike and then a hot lunch at 12:30 p.m. Cost for the morning cowboy coffee, pastries, and hot lunch is $15 per person, $12 for kids 12 and under. Registration can be made online.

28 MAZAMAS

Another PCT hiker enjoys a big breakfast. Photo: Charles Barker

THANKSGIVING DINNER The Lodge will open at noon on Thanksgiving. We will have a hike/snowshoe leaving the lodge at 1 p.m. and returning to the lodge by 4 p.m. for appetizers.

Dinner will be served at 5 p.m. Dinner is $25 for adults, $15 for kids under 12, kids 2 and under eat free.

THANKSGIVING MENU

LODGE CARETAKERS

Appetizers ▶▶ Smoked Salmon Platter ▶▶ Pickle and Olive Tray ▶▶ Hot Cider

Dinner ▶▶ Aaron’s Homemade Bread ▶▶ Three Bean Salad ▶▶ Mashed Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes ▶▶ Stuffing and Gluten Free Option too. ▶▶ Cranberry Sauce ▶▶ Mixed Green Salad ▶▶ Turkey and Gravy

Dessert

▶▶ Apple and Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream

SAYING GOODBYE RAY POLANI

September 1, 1923–March 19, 2018 A native of Trieste, Italy, when Ray Polani got involved in something he didn't mess around.

That's the way he approached climbing when he joined the Mazamas in 1963. Right away he set out to scale the Sixteen Northwest Peaks.

Systematically, season after season, Ray plugged away at these summits, climbing with a veritable Who's Who of Mazama leaders at that time. He had his Guardian Peaks award by the next year.

By 1965 he had completed the climbs for the Oregon Cascades award, and in 1969, with a successful ascent of Mt. Baker, he had his Sixteen Northwest Peaks award. From there Ray turned his attention to mentoring a local Girl Scout troop, climbing with the Mazamas occasionally.

Three of his later climbs were arguably the highlight of his climbing career. In 1970 he was able to get up South Sister with his wife, Anita, and his daughter, Julia, and in the next two years summited Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helens, again with Julia. His last climb was in 1974. Along the way he had become a Mazama Trail Trip leader, and continued that until 1992.

Ray loved to tell stories of his climbing adventures and was an avid photographer. What better way to share that passion than through the Program Committee, on which he served from Ray Polani and daughter Julie on the summit of Mt. Hood 1971.

1970–72.

Ray Polani was one of those Mazamas who was more famous outside the organization than within. Early on in his career as a savings and loan officer, in 1961, he became a bike commuter, back when such a thing was quite rare. This led to his involvement in citizens' committees on alternatives to automobile transportation. Once engaged, Ray became a strong force in advocating for Portland's now famous bicycle commuter system.

That led to his substantial involvement as a citizen mass transit advocate that manifested in the establishment of the MAX light rail system in the Portland area in the early 1980s. Ray was awarded multiple community awards for his mass transit activism. One day, former Governor Tom McCall went to Ray’s office to personally meet the man he said “went from pest to prophet, from dreamer to doer” for his tireless efforts over the many years of advocating for Mass Transit improvements.

In retirement Ray and Anita returned to their European roots, including a month spent hiking in the Dolomites. They also visited Russia, and then traveled through western Europe, all by public transportation, naturally.

JON PUTNAM

March 26, 1947–June 11, 2019 Jon joined the Mazamas in 1989. In the next few years he graduated from both the BCEP and ICS programs. By 2000 he had attained both the Guardian Peaks Award and the Oregon Cascade Peaks Award. He completed the climbs for the Sixteen Peaks Award in 2004. Jon assisted on ten successful Mazama climbs over the years, usually with his friend Whit Fellers. He served on the Publications Committee from 2007–2010, contributing several articles to the Mazama Annual during that time. In 2012 Jon and his wife moved to Bend, where he spent his final years.

OCTOBER 2019 29

CHAITANYA SATHE

April 27, 1984–August 24, 2019

by Maureen O'Hagan

A

t first, it seemed incongruous: a man, dressed mostly in white, sitting in the back of the Holman Auditorium, smiling. The rest of the crowd was grim-faced, here to remember their friend and fellow Mazama, Chaitanya Sathe, who had died in a hiking accident on Aug. 24. Yet this man in white was Chaitanya’s father. And here he was smiling as he sat through dozens of photos of his son on mountaintops. He smiled when mourners approached to say, “I’m so sorry you lost your son.”

For a moment, Ramesha Sathe would stop smiling. “Don’t be sorry!” he would exclaim. He gestured up towards the screen, at the slides showing Chaitanya smiling, too. Here’s Chaitanya smiling at the top of Mt. Hood. There he is smiling in Ouray. He’s smiling on Three Fingered Jack. And in the Grand Canyon. And on Broken Top, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier. The list goes on. As Ramesha Sathe could see, his son’s life in the mountains was a good one.

“I think he just felt really alive and felt like he belonged there,” Chaitanya’s girlfriend Kaitlin Rupert said. “For him, the mountains weren’t something to conquer. He would tell me he loved the mountains, he felt like they loved him, and they’d been very kind to him.”

It felt, in some ways, that these weekends in the mountains— weekend after weekend after weekend—were getting him closer to his spiritual goals, she said. He’d return from each climb and thank the mountain gods for letting his group pass.

He took BCEP in 2015 and applied to dozens of climbs afterwards, getting mostly rejections. He struggled, at first, to find climbing partners. Chaitanya was an introvert who confided in friends that he felt socially awkward. And yet to climb, you need partners. “He forced himself out of his own comfort zone,” said his friend and climbing partner, Ryan Gwillim.

30 MAZAMAS

He was both safety-conscious and studious. When Chaitanya joined his first Hood climb led by Rico Micallef, he was slow, but told Rico he dreamed of climbing Rainier. “I can tell you right now, that is not a Rainier pace,” Rico told him. “Chai took it to heart.”

He worked on strength, speed, skills. He was always asking questions: What can I do? What can I learn? What do you think of this? Why don’t we do it this way? By the time they climbed the Devil’s Kitchen Headwall last winter, Rico said, “he took great pleasure in smoking my ass to the top.”

He wasn’t just getting faster during this period; he also seemed to be growing more vibrant, Kaitlin and Ryan agreed.

Chaitanya was more than a climber, of course. He was a math nerd, a computer geek, a native of India who went to Illinois for a PhD and landed in 2014 at Intel, where he made many friends.

He worked as an optical proximity correction engineer, a job that entails identifying patterns and compensating for image distortions that occur when printing elements of electronic circuits that are infinitesimally small.

In other words, he was smart as all get-out. In his apartment, Ryan said, there must have been 1,500 books, mostly math and mountaineering. Chaitanya had a full-sized easel set up with paper to scribble on—Sanskrit, high-level math problems, stuff that no

Left: Chaitanya's ICS student picture. Photo: Justin Colquhoun. Right, top: Chai (front) smiling on a mountain summit. Photo: Facebook. Bottom: Chai at the Mazama Lodge. Photo: Phil Lamb.

one else could understand. He’d work through a problem, tear off a sheet, crumble it up and toss it in the corner, moving onto the next problem and the next. “He’d do this for fun,” Ryan marveled.

Chaitanya wasn’t the sort of person who’d hide his true self to please others. There was an authenticity and honesty about him that drew people in. Even if, sometimes, it meant he told people things they didn’t necessarily want to hear.

His Hindu faith played a big role in his life. “His spiritual beliefs were such that he didn’t want to hurt anything,” Kaitlin said. “Part of that involved being as open and honest as possible because he felt it was hurtful to lie to somebody and not be authentic.” She valued this kind of honesty, and his willingness to share what he learned, too.

He would tell Kaitlin that we are not our bodies, that there is no permanence. She supposes now that’s what his father was thinking as he sat in the back of the auditorium, smiling at all his son had done in this life.

The morning he died, Chaitanya and Ryan were walking down to the Lower Gorge at Smith Rock. Ryan said he didn’t see his friend trip, didn’t hear a grunt or a yelp. Ryan said some people have wondered why they weren’t tied in, but if you’ve used this trail, you know it’s not a place where people commonly rope up.

“This was just a freak accident,” Rico said after he’d seen the place where Chaitanya fell. “We’ve all slipped on these kinds of

trails, and 98 percent of the time, these slips are no big deal.”

To him, that makes the loss all the more upsetting. Sometimes, climbing accidents offer lessons. But what could be learned from this? Take 3rd and 4th class approaches even more seriously?

That’s important, but it didn’t feel like enough.

For Kaitlin, the fact that this was just a freak accident offers a bit of solace. There are no recriminations, there is no blame, no second-guessing, no what-if ’s.

“It’s possible it was just a really beautiful day,” she said, “and he was looking up at the clouds.”

OCTOBER 2019 31

MAZAMA LIBRARY

Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country.

Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library

NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS Essential knots: a step-by-step guide to tying the perfect knot for every situation, by Neville Olliffe and Madeleine Rowles-Olliffe, 2010. Essential Knots is a practical, colorful, and easy-to-use guide to knots: how to tie them, when to use them, and why a specific knot is the perfect choice to make.

Clear and concise step-by-step instructions are completely illustrated with precise photographs guiding the knot tyer. Additional text describes the variety of uses for each knot and provides alternative suggestions for similar knots, while full-color photos show each finished knot in use. Includes instructions for the best 85 knots to use for: Camping, Climbing, Everyday Activities, Fishing, Paddling, Sailing, Scouting, Tricks, and More! Mazama Library call# 796.5 O4 Alpine Lakes Wilderness: The Complete Hiking Guide, by Nathan Barnes and Jeremy Barnes, 2019.

The lush Alpine Lakes Wilderness in Washington’s Central Cascades contains a plethora of trails, rugged glacier-carved mountains, and more than 700 sparkling alpine lakes and ponds. Accessed via nearly 50 trailheads, more than 600 miles of trails offer hikers leisurely strolls along wooded creeks, climbs up mountain passes, or lunch spots next to glassy tarns. It is one of the most popular and beloved places for hikers in this region. The allnew guide, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, features a wide range of hikes that vary in difficulty, geography, and theme so that hikers of any age and skill level will find trails that fit their taste. Easy to use, the guide includes details on overnight permits, car-camping options near-wilderness access points, detailed maps, elevation gain/loss, and turn-by-turn mileage and directions. Interesting historical background and natural history round out the trail descriptions. Mazama Library call# 917.97 B26 Climbing the Seven Summits: A Comprehensive Guide to the Continents' Highest Peaks, by Mark Hamill, 2012. Aconcagua. Denali. Elbrus. Everest.

Kilimanjaro. Kosciuszko. Vinson. To a climber, these mountains are known as the Seven Summits—the highest peaks on each continent.

If you've ever dreamed of climbing Denali or Everest, or joining the even more exclusive "Seven Summiters" club, then Climbing the Seven Summits is the guidebook you need to turn your dream into reality.

Mazama Library call# 796.52 H17

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TREASURES FROM THE SPECIAL COLLECTION Kulu and Lahoul, by Colonel Charles Granville Bruce. Published in 1914, the book chronicles Colonel Bruce’s seven-month exploration of the Himalayan range. In his time technical skill was not as important in the Himalayas as was the ability to be quite at home in the inaccessible high ground and among the various groups of inhabitants. Bruce's greatest contribution, perhaps, was to discover the value of the native mountaineer, especially the Sherpa. From the beginning, he insisted on training Gurkha soldiers to be mountain guides, and he brought some home to Cwmdare and to the Alps.

Mazama Library Special Collection, 915.46.B83.

DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶That the highest climber's hut in the world is the Refugio Independencia at 21,477 ft on Aconcagua. ▶▶That the world’s first recorded rock climb took place on France’s Mont Aiguille in 1492. ▶▶That modern mountain biking began in Marin County, California in the 1970s. ▶▶That US astronauts John Watts Young and Charles Duke hold the lunar height record for reaching a height of 25,688 ft. on the Descartes Highlands in 1972.

BOOKS ON BACKCOUNTRY COOKING ▶▶ The Great American Camping Cookbook, 641.5.C77 ▶▶ Wilderness Cuisine: How to prepare and enjoy find food on the trail and in camp, 641.5.L34 ▶▶ A fork in the trail: mouthwatering meals and tempting treats for the backcountry, 641.5M33 ▶▶ Lipsmacking’ backpackin’: lightweight trail-tested recipes for backcountry trips, 641.5.C76

THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections. Thank you for your support.

OCTOBER 2019 33

PERMITTING OF THE CENTRAL CASCADES

by Lindsey Garner Beginning in summer 2020, recreating in many areas of the central Cascades will require more advanced planning than in years past. The US Forest Service has spent the past two years evaluating the Central Cascades Wilderness Strategies Project, which involves management strategies for five wilderness areas in the central Cascades: Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington, Three Sisters, Waldo Lake, and Diamond Peak. According to the USFS, visitation to these areas has dramatically increased in the last five years, with some trailheads experiencing up to a 500% increase in traffic, and current management does not adequately address impacts from this increased use such as degradation and loss of meadow and riparian vegetation, tree damage, wildlife disturbance, human and dog waste, widening and braiding of trails, and compaction of sites. Thus, in their decision notice for the Project released in May 2019, the USFS has indicated their intention to create a limited entry permit/quota system for various trailheads within the wilderness areas; implement campfire bans above certain elevations Overnight Day Use and camping setbacks at certain locations/distances from waterbodies; and adopt a Trailhead1 Group Individual Data2 quota monitoring and adaptive management plan to allow for future adjustments. Of these measures, the permit/quota system will have the greatest impact on Mazama members’ Three Sisters Wilderness summer mountaineering, hiking, and camping plans. The major changes that will occur as Scott 13 12 a result of the project are described below.

Obsidian 13 30 Limited Entry Permits: Visitor use at until October 31. Free self-issue permits 19 trailheads for day use and 79 trailheads will be required the Friday before Memorial Sisters Mirror 4 16 for overnight use will be managed in Mt. Day through October 31 at all trailheads Devils Lake/ Jefferson, Mt. Washington, and Three that are not limited entry (adhering to the 16 100 Wickiup Sisters Wilderness areas through limited current system). entry permits. For trailheads not included Elevational Campfire Ban: Campfires Green Lake/ 14 80 Soda Creek in the limited entry permit system, the will not be allowed above 5,700 feet in current process of self-issuing a free permit Three Sisters, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Broken Top 4 40 at the trailhead will continue. Free selfWashington Wildernesses or above Tam McArthur issue permits will continue to be required 6,000 feet in Diamond Peak Wilderness.

5 80 Rim for overnight use in the Diamond Peak and Campfires will not be allowed at Table Waldo Lake Wilderness areas (i.e., there Lake, Marion/Ann Lake Basin, Benson Pole Creek 9 -are no new permits/quotas proposed for Lake and Tenas Lakes. There is no Lava Camp 7 40 these two areas). elevational campfire ban in Waldo Lake Most limited entry permits will need Wilderness.

Mt. Jefferson Wilderness to be obtained in advance via the National Camping setbacks: Setbacks will be Whitewater 8 30 Recreation Reservation System, but the imposed at the following locations and USFS has not indicated when permits will distances from water: No Name Lake on Pamelia Lake 11 24 be available. The USFS has stated that it Broken Top Tarn (1/4 mile); Golden Lake; Marion Lake 10 40 is their intention to provide a portion of The Obsidian Cliffs area including Sisters Duffy Lake 13 30 limited entry permits the day-of or day Springs, Glacier Creek, Obsidian Creek, before a trip, but the exact proportions White Branch Creek and Arrowhead Lake; PCT Santiam 10 -have not yet been determined.

Minnie Scott Springs; The Linton Meadows Pass Permit Fees: The USFS has not area; and the Pamelia Lakes area (250 feet).

Jack Lake 5 60 stated what the limited entry permit fees PCT Users: The USFS will not require Mt. Washington Wilderness will be. The USFS is currently pursuing an additional permit for PCT hikers authorization through the Federal Land carrying a long-distance hiking permit Patjens 3 -Recreation Enhancement Act to charge administered by the PCTA to enter the PCT McKenzie a wilderness stewardship fee for day wilderness areas included in this Project 6 24 Pass and overnight permits and will conduct as they pass through. Visitors with a PCT a public process for this action. The long-distance permit will not be allowed to PCT Big Lake 2 -reservation system used to allocate camp outside the PCT corridor (1/2 mile trailhead permits will also include a fee for on either side of PCT) or in the following The following popular trailheads (see the reservation transaction. areas: Obsidian, North and South Mathieu above) will require permits and be Permit Season: Limited entry Lakes, Coyote and Shale Lakes, and subject to quotas: permits will be required from the Friday Jefferson Park.

1. For a complete list of all permitted before Memorial Day to the last Friday in Complete details for the Project can trailheads, see the Final Decision Notice September. Trailheads that require the be found on the USFS website at: https:// located online at: https://www.fs.usda. limited entry permits will then switch to www.fs.usda.gov/project/?project=50578 gov/nfs/11558/www/nepa/105465_ requiring unlimited free, self-issue permits FSPLT3_4647968.pdf 2. Group size limited to 12 individuals.

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We are the bond stronger than any rope.

Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it.

NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT

OCTOBER 2019 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule.

UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS. HK C2 Oct. 12. Trapper Creek Loop (Observation Peak) - Dog Hike. Leader: Lindsey Addison, lindsey.addison@gmail.com, 608-443-6541. The Trapper Creek Wilderness area is just outside of Carson WA. The Mazamas built many of the trails here, so you know there will be some steep sections!

The trailhead is at 1,000 ft. and Observation Peak’s summit is 4,200 ft. The planned loop is just over 13 miles, but there are shorter options if trail/weather conditions demand it.

Dogs are welcome on this hike! All dogs must be leashed at all times, and must not have a history of aggression toward other dogs or people. This hike will be semi-exploratory for me—the last time I was here it was early spring and I had to turn back early because of numerous downed trees obstructing the trail. We will depart from the Gateway transit center park and ride at 7 a.m., please arrive by 6:45 a.m. 13.3 miles. 3,200 ft. Drive: 116.

HK B2 Oct. 13. Elk Mountain Loop. Leader: Scott Stevenson, scottstevensonpdx@gmail. com, 503-768-6942. Reaching the summit of Elk Mountain is an arduous task. The trail climbs nearly 2,000 feet in less than 2 miles, and the steepness is compounded by loose in many places. This is a hike that you will appreciate having poles! You'll get several great opportunities to soak in some views on your way to the summit. Once there, take a moment to sign it at the summit register (maintained by the Mazamas!) before dropping off the backside of Elk to reach to Elk Creek Trail. 8:30 a.m. at the Target at US26 and NW 185th Avenue. Please arrive 10 minutes early. 7.5 miles. 2,500 ft. Drive: 105 RT. Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain.

Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

36 MAZAMAS

HK B2 Oct. 16. Wilson River/Lester Creek Section. Leader: Bruce Giordano, brucegiord32@gmail.com, 503-477-6013. Hike begins at Kings Mountain trailhead. Instead of going up to Kings Mountain though, we will make a left at the Wilson River junction.

Continue on Wilson River Trail heading mostly up until we reach junction with Kings Junior Trail. Then head mostly down until we cross suspension bridge over the North Fork of Wilson River. There is a picnic table on the other side where we will have lunch before returning the way we came. 11.5 miles. 2,700 ft. Drive: 70, Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m.

HK A2 Oct. 17. Ponderosa Point. Leader: Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail. com, 971-832-2556. Above the Hood River Valley, Spectacular in October. A mixture of Western Hemlock and Ponderosa pines.

Meet at the MMC at 8 a.m. 6.2 miles, 1,300 ft., Drive: 180 miles HK C2 Oct. 19. Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Leader: Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com, 971-832-2556. For a hike that gains almost exactly 4,000 feet, this excursion seems relatively forgiving for those in decent shape. The gain is, in fact, constant, and usually not steep enough to quicken your heart beat once you set your pace. The goal is the volcanic plug at the top of Larch Mountain known as Sherrard Point. The mountain itself is one of the three Boring stratovolcanoes (the others being Mount Sylvania and Highland Butte) and is the highest point in the west Gorge; thus, the views are expansive. In addition, throw in some imposing old-growth Douglas-firs and hemlocks, and a variety of Gorge blooms at

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry

Sherrard Point in the summer. The lower 4 1/2 miles of the route was scorched by the 2017 Eagle Creek Fire, with the understory burned out in lower sections and areas of crown fire as you get higher up. The Larch Mountain Trail crosses the westernmost tongue of the Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness.

13.8 miles. 4,100 ft. Drive: 48, MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK B2 Oct. 20. Hamilton Mountain Loop.

Leader: Kate Evans, kateevans97@gmail.com, 503-635-6540. Enjoy GORGEous views on this loop hike. We'll hike up the ridge and down Don's cutoff trail. Poles are suggested.

You also need a WA state park pass or a $10 fee for each car. 7.6 miles. 2,100 ft. Meet at Gateway at 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Oct. 22. Hardy Ridge Dog Friendly Hike. Leader: Don McCoy, donald1020@ aol.com, 503-246-7416. We will meet at the Beacon Rock State Park Equestrian Trailhead at 9 a.m. A Discovery Pass is required, but can be purchased at the Trailhead. We will go up the East Hardy Trail to the Hardy Ridge Trail and come back down the West Hardy Trail. These trails are on old logging roads which narrow down on the ridge. On the ridge, we have beautiful views of the Columbia Gorge. The hike is 7.3 miles with an 1800ft elevation gain. The wide trails and elevation gain work well to use up that pent up energy. Leashed well behaved dogs are welcome, but you don't need a dog to attend. There is no cell phone service at the trailhead. 7 miles. 2,100 ft. Drive: 88, at 9 a.m.

and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and

carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

STREET RAMBLES TUESDAY & THURSDAY AT REI OCTOBER 1, 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22, 24, 29, 31 Every Tuesday & Thursday you can join a team of Mazamas at the REI in the Pearl District. Going on a Street Ramble is one of the best ways to get an introduction to the Mazama hiking program. Meet other hikers and maybe plan a weekend trip, maintain your fitness after work and see some hidden parts of Portland you might never get to see otherwise. Interested in joining us? All you need to do is show up, check in, pay, and be ready to go at 6 p.m. We'll see you there!

HK B1.5 Oct. 23. Kings Mountain. Leader: Tony Spiering, aespiering@gmail.com, 503680-8112. The trail heads gradually up under alders and switchbacks at a view of a rushing creek. Then the path winds up steeply on a ridge before dropping and crossing the head of a small gully. The trail rises gradually.

Sword fern dominates the understory. Head up a ridge with a rushing creek to the left and then walk on the level in Douglas-fir woods.

There are big stumps in these woods: the area was logged before the Tillamook Burn.

The path rises gradually under alders, heads up an old road bed, and then switchbacks in an alder grove. The trail drops slightly on a road bed and passes a short cut up to the left. Wind up, with a creek on the right, and pass the 2,000 ft. level. The trail makes a level traverse and passes an old road bed shortcut dropping down steeply to the left.

The path makes a major switchback at the Kings Mountain-Kings Mountain Junior Trail Junction. Continue on a level section past a 0.63 miles to the summit sign and then steeply up to where the gradient eases again.

Keep up past the 2,500 ft. level sign and wind up steeply, including going up some rock steps. A spur leads left 60 ft. to a viewpoint of the west ridge. The trail keeps up steeply in mainly Douglas-fir woods and passes a picnic table. Exit the woods and pass the 3,000 ft. elevation sign. Rise through meadows. There’s a view of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams through the trees before you reach the summit. Sign in at the summit register if you wish; the elevation, 3,226 ft., is posted. There is a great view overlooking the Lester Creek valley and points southwest from here. 5 miles. 2,500 ft.

Drive: 66, Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m.

READY TO SIGN UP ONLINE?

Many hikes have limited spots available.

Sign up online today to secure your spot.

Are you a first time user? Go to mazamas.org/ gettingstarted to learn how to create your account.

It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running. Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@ mazamas.org.

HK B2 Oct. 23. Tamanawas Falls, Lamberson Spur. Leader: Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com, 971-832-2556. We will first stop and view the Falls, then take a spur trail up on top of Lamberson Butte. 10 miles, 2,200 ft., Drive: 160 miles Meet at the MMC at 8 a.m.

HK C1.5 Oct. 27. Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Leader: Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@ juno.com, 503-679-2113. A good late season vigorous hike. In your lap views of the east side of Hood. Maybe some Larch sightings.

Then again, it could pour down rain, or even snow. Leader will keep an eye on the weather forecast and advise accordingly. Be prepared when the time comes. 10.4 miles. 2,975 ft.

Drive: 136, Gateway Park & Ride at 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Oct. 30. Boulder Lake. Leader: Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@gmail.com, 971-832-2556. Loop hike in east-west forest transition zone east of Mt. Hood. Is on the path of the fall raptor bird migration. 10 miles, 1,800 ft., Drive: 150 miles Meet at the MMC at 8 a.m.

HK C2 Nov. 9. Rooster Rock Leader: Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com, 503-679-2113.

No, the other Rooster Rock, the one down

by Mollala. If we get the weather it's a lovely ridge hike that ends at a feature called Chicken Rock. Given the date anything could happen weatherwise, but I'll make the determination whether to proceed or not when the time comes. Be prepared to bring what you need for the season and conditions.

11.5 miles. 3770 ft.. Drive: 42.5, Clackamas Town Center Max Park & Ride Garage at 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Nov. 11. Misery Ridge to Summit Loop. Leader: Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail. com, 503-830-0817. Smith Rock is the most visible remaining element of the Crooked River Caldera, a Yellowstone-sized volcano that erupted 30 million years ago. Today it's known as Oregon's rock climbing mecca, but it also offers some of the state's most iconic hiking. We will ascend to a great view of Monkey Face, then we will take the longer Summit loop clockwise around Smith Rock.

Along the way, we'll stop to admire rock climbers. And if we're lucky, we'll also see a line of Cascade volcanoes. 7.2 miles, 1,750 ft.

Drive. 270 miles RT. Meet at Clackamas Town Center MAX Park & Ride Garage at 5:30 a.m.

MeetUp. HK C1.5 Nov. 24. Benson Plateau (Herman Creek). Leader: Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@ juno.com, 503-679-2113. Our annual preThanksgiving tromp up the "easy" way to Benson Plateau. Conditions vary from year to year. I will monitor conditions and weather right up until hike day. Cash in on the shape you got in during climbing season and join us in a rigorous outing. 12.8 miles. 3,720 ft. Drive: 78, Gateway Park & Ride at 7:30 a.m.

OCTOBER 2019 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting is on Monday, Oct. 7. All meetings except the October meeting are held on the third Tuesday of the month and begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, September 17. Laura noted the focus of the meeting would be on the updates from EC working groups and final planning for the Executive Director transition. Following approval of the agenda, Laura received approval for the August minutes. Laura also noted that membership, as of the end of July, stands at 3,557. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an overview of the July financials. Total year to date operating revenue was $1,113415, with operating expenses of $1,419,566 resulting in a net loss of $306,151. Assets were $517,827.

Both income and expenses are tracking to budget.

Mitsu Iwasaki, in his first Executive Director’s report, noted that he has been on the job for just over two weeks.

He shared some general observations drawn from conversations with members and staff, as well as his participation in several committee meetings and a climbing outing to Acker Rock. Over the next month or two, he plans on rolling out several initiatives to improve transparency and reporting between the council, members, staff, and the Foundation board. As a newcomer to the Mazamas, with thirty-years of climbing experience in the Northwest, the activities the Mazamas engage in to support the Pacific Northwest’s mountain community surprised him. Also, the lack of knowledge by the general public about our non-climbing programs and activities also stood out. Overall, Mitsu sees many opportunities to improve the Mazamas and our perception by

38 MAZAMAS

nonmembers and other organizations.

In the coming weeks, Mitsu will attend several upcoming rambles, committee meetings, as well as hold individual conversations with members and key stakeholders.

Continuing the business agenda, Robin Wilcox gave an update on the Culture Working Group. The group has met once to establish the scope of their work, develop a timeline, and discuss who should be a part of the working group. The group will focus on leading conversations with the members around who the Mazamas are today, our culture, and where we are going. Additional members will be added to the group for future meetings so that there is a cross-functional representation of perspectives. The group's work will inform future bylaws revisions, help clarify roles and responsibilities, and other changes later on. The group will meet again in the last week of September.

Traci Manning gave an update on the work done by Committee Roles and Responsibilities Task Force. The task force has met with many of the committees and is planning on meeting with the remaining few in the coming month. Overall, the task force is building an understanding of where staff and committees are aligned and where improvements can be made.

Their goal is to gain a holistic view of the organization and assist the EC in working to define committee and staff roles.

Joe Eberhardt gave an update on the EC Finance working group’s activities. They are recommending including four financial ratios to the

new organizational dashboard to track the Mazamas’ financial health.

The purpose of the dashboard is to allow board members, Mazama Foundation board members, and staff to better understand the status of the organization's financial performance, on a monthly basis, against the budget.

Matt Sundling, Climbing Committee Chair, was on hand for the member comment period. Matt shared a data analysis of the cost of individual climbs per climber. He acknowledged that the Climbing Committee is aware that many of their climbs rarely break even and often cost the organization money. As a way to start a discussion, the committee evaluated several dozen climbs and made an attempt to determine the true cost of operation while taking into account distance traveled, permit fees, insurance, organizational overhead, and other factors. The committee’s goal is to revise climb fees on a climb route basis to better reflect the actual costs.

President Laura Pigion ended the public part of the meeting by noting that this is the final council meeting for the year. She thanked all the board members for their hard work during this year of transition. She closed by saying everyone should be proud of the work they have done. The Executive Council adjourned into Executive Session at 6:30 p.m. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, October 7 following the Mazamas Annual Meeting.

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