We are the mountain people. Everything we make is designed by Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it. when you really need it.
NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT
IN THIS ISSUE Executive Director Report, p. 4 Upcoming Events, p. 6 Letter to the Editor, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Successful Climbers, p. 7 Mazama Membership, p. 8 Mountains and Martins, p. 9 Volunteer Accomplishments, p. 12 Mazama Election FAQs, p. 13 Joint Climb Route Statement, p. 14 Melanated Mazamas, p. 15 Mazama Equity Statement, p. 15 Conservation Corner, p. 17 Trail Trips, p. 19 Mazama Classics, p. 19 Safe Backcounty Recreation this Winter, p. 20 We Climb High, p. 21 What’s in Your Snowpack?, p. 22 Mountain LEAD Educator Update, p. 27 Mazama Lodge, p. 28 Mazama Climbing Challenge, p. 29 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30 Support the Mazamas, p. 31
CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org Hours: CLOSED to public access
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: CLOSED to public access.
PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editors: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor; Mathew Brock, Layout Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA STAFF SARAH BRADHAM, Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org
CLAIRE NELSON Education & Culture Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org
LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org
RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org
For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/contactinformation.
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Cover: Mazama party on Mt Rainier, June 2019. Photo: Ryan Johnson. Above: New Mazama Ian Biel on the summit of South Sister, July 2020.
Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
DECEMBER 2020 3
Acting Executive Director’s Report
GETTING READY FOR 2021 by Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director
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s we head into the tail end of the year, we find ourselves looking back and taking stock of 2020. In a typical year, in this column I would focus on recapping our accomplishments by sharing numbers of happy climbers and hikers, mountains summitted, trail miles hiked, students served, educational programs offered, trails tended, gatherings held, and much more.
But if we have learned anything at this point in the year, it is that 2020 is anything but typical. As I write this, we are heading into a 4-week freeze in Multnomah county that imposes restrictions on social gatherings, gyms & restaurants, and calls for people to work from home as much as possible to slow the spread of COVID-19. OHSU reported several days ago that they are nearing capacity, which is an ominous sign as we head into the winter months. The Mazamas continues to follow state and local guidelines, and update our internal coronavirus policies as those guidelines change. We routinely check in with our friends at the Mountaineers, Colorado Mountain Club, and American Alpine Club to talk about best practices as we navigate these challenging times. The current guidelines do not affect our ability to lead outdoor activities, but they do reduce the size of our activities from 10 to 6 during the freeze period. Mazama activity leaders, if they feel comfortable doing so, will continue to offer hiking and climbing opportunities in small groups. Mazama education committees are also busy preparing our 2021 classes, with Nordic and Backcountry Ski Touring first up on the calendar. All of our education programs are shifting to an online lecture and small group field session format. For some of our programs this will be a relatively minor change, for others, such as the Basic Climbing Education Program, the change will be significant. But our intrepid committee and activity leaders are willing to rise to this occasion to offer learning and training opportunities, and
they are working together to share best practices on online education and work out the details for our online delivery models. Over the last few months we have received daily emails and phone calls asking about our programs. There is a strong desire in our community to get outside, and people are reaching out to us because they want the training to get outside safely. We plan Sarah enjoying the Elk-Kings Traverse on a soggy day in October 2020 with a friend. to continue Getting outside and into nature during this pandemic provides both a physical and mental to meet this need health boost. through modified organizations denouncing offensive route versions of our traditional programs and names, and we are thrilled to support new, short-duration classes. Keep an eye on our Black, Indigenous, and People of our website, eNews, and social media for up Color (BIPOC) community through the to the minute updates on programs. Melanated Mazamas affinity group. We We are also beginning our commitment hope you’ll join us in this work, and keep us to the greater mountain community to be accountable as we set goals and visions for more inclusive, equitable, and just. Our an even better Mazamas. Executive Board approved our first equity I know that if you are reading this, you statement (see page 15), we signed on to a are as dedicated as I am to the Mazama joint letter with other prominent climbing
Make your Year End Donation to the Mazamas Today! 4 MAZAMAS
Heading into the winter months and the holidays without the ability to gather in our homes with family and friends, puts stress on our mental and physical health. Providing opportunities to get outside, breathe fresh air, learn new skills, and get heart-pumping exercise is a way the Mazamas can provide an important service to our members and our community.
mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. This year has been a lean one, so I ask you to join me today in making a donation to help ensure the longevity of the Mazamas for this year and many years to come. Your donations can be directed to our Scholarship Fund, to support individuals of all financial means to participate in our programs, or directed to our Annual Fund, which allows us to put your donation to wherever we have the most need. Heading into the winter months and the holidays without the ability to gather in our homes with family and friends, puts stress on our mental and physical health. Providing opportunities to get outside, breathe fresh air, learn new skills, and get heart-pumping exercise is a way the Mazamas can provide an important service to our members and our community. Thank you for helping us continue to meet this need.
JOIN THE MAZAMAS ARE YOU READY TO BECOME A MAZAMA MEMBER? IF YOU HAVE SUMMITTED A GLACIATED PEAK AT ANY TIME IN YOUR LIFE, YOU ARE READY! GO TO MAZAMAS. ORG/JOIN AND SIGN UP.
EDUCATION ADVOCACY COMMUNITY BUILDING What does it mean to join the Mazamas? As a member, you are part of one of the most respected mountaineering and outdoor organizations in the country. Our members are passionate outdoor individuals who are dedicated to our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. The Mazamas and its members work towards our mission through education, advocacy, and community building.
AS A MEMBER YOU WILL: • Meet new friends who share your love of the outdoors. • Contribute towards scholarships to get underserved populations outdoors. • Enjoy discounted rates on Mazama activities and discounts at local outdoor retailers and gyms. • Receive our bi-monthly Mazama Bulletin magazine. • Join the American Alpine Club (AAC) at a reduced rate (once you join you will receive a code to use on the AAC website). • Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume Mazama Mountaineering Library. • Receive free rescue insurance anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters and up to $10,000 ($5,000 with Mazama membership; $10,000 with joint AAC membership).
mazamas.org/donate
• Volunteer! You can join our team and lead trips, classes, and other activities.
DECEMBER 2020 5
UPCOMING EVENTS
LETTER TO THE EDITOR
(VIRTUAL) CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCHEON FRIDAY, DECEMBER 4 | 11:30 A.M.–1:30 P.M. | ZOOM
Join the Mazama Classics for their annual December luncheon, this time virtually! We’ve got some ideas brewing for how to make this luncheon just as fun and meaningful as our past in-person events, but if inspiration strikes you please send us a note at classics@mazamas.org. One thing we do know is that we will be recognizing our members who have reached milestone years of membership! We highly encourage you to RSVP so that you receive the video call link to add to your calendar. Please RSVP here: tinyurl.com/mazholidayluncheon2020 Hope to “see” you there! "Holiday Decorations 2011" by Urban Woodswalker is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
CORRECTION We inadvertently left out a URL link from last month’s article by Chris LeDoux and Jessie Applegate. The link is tinyurl.com/ intertwineculture. We apologize for any inconvience. 6 MAZAMAS
“
L
oved the cover of the OctoberNovember Mazama Bulletin with the picture of 65 year old Mazama Thomas Miller, flowing white beard and all, on top of Forbidden Peak after 6 or 7 tries! It was downright inspirational. I live on the East Coast but love the mountains of the PNW. When I was 62 I tried and failed to climb Mt. Baker. I didn’t succeed until the third try, when I was 64. For my 65th birthday I gave myself a membership in the Mazamas, and have been an avid reader of the Bulletin ever since, trying to figure out a way to plug into the club. With COVID I am mostly an avid armchair climber and hiker. But finding my way onto a suitable peak in the PNW when we can travel again is still high on my bucket list. Thanks for helping to keep the dream alive!” —Nick Reynolds, Arlington, Virginia
VOLUNTEER SUCCESSFUL OPPORTUNITIES CLIMBERS PUBLICATIONS TEAM The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it’s even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team. Inquire at publications@mazamas.org
WFA BUILDING COORDINATOR We are in need of volunteers to monitor the Mazama Mountaineering Center during one of our external Wilderness First Aid courses. Building coordinators will be responsible for opening/closing the building, periodically cleaning the restrooms, and ensuring class coordinators have access to what they need. Learn more and sign up at tinyurl.com/WFAvol
SHORT TERM VOLUNTEER PROJECTS None of the above suit your fancy (or availability)? We’ve got a plethora of small volunteer projects that we need help with! Learn more and sign up at tinyurl.com/MazShort
Thank you to our climb leaders for taking on the challenge of leading climbs during the COVID-19 pandemic, and getting folks out into the mountains for some much needed fun! November 1: Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Michael Hortsch, Leader. Sergey Kiselev, Assistant. Allan Beattie, John Palmer, Kathy Ragan, Andrey Shapkin. A note to everyone who applied for a climb this summer/fall and was not accepted. Due to the unique qualities of this year’s climb season, the opportunities were dramatically limited. In a typical year, there are more climbs on our schedule and a higher likelihood of being accepted onto a climb. We hope you won’t be discouraged if you were not accepted this year, and we hope to see you on a climb in 2021. *You can find the current Mazama COVID-19 policies at mazamas. org/COVID-19
MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER MAZAMA LIBRARY REOPENING PAUSED Under the guidance of the State of Oregon, we are pausing our planned reopening of the Mazama Library. We will not be offering curbside pickup or in-person research appointments until January 2021. Please watch the Bulletin, the eNews, and the library’s webpage for more info. You can contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager, at mathew@mazamas.org with any questions or concerns. Thank you for your understanding as we navigate this everchanging situation.
DECEMBER 2020 7
MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP OCTOBER Membership Report NEW MEMBERS: 26 Henry Axon—South Sister Ian Beil—South Sister John Cahill—South Sister Kathy Clevenger—Mt. Hood Alex Couch—Mt. Washington (OR) Amanda Dyckman—Old Snowy Mountain Collin Edwards Hill—South Sister Joe Eigner—Mount St Helens Frances Gollnick—Mt. Washington Lisa Hogan—South Sister Rahul Jain—Broken Top Kristi Kose—Mt. Hood Robert Marshall—Mt. Hood Sergiy Moskalenko—Old Snowy Mountain Craig Popelars— Illimani (Bolivia) Dziugas Radzius— Mt. St Helens Kaiti Runge— Mount St Helens Chase Shepard— South Sister Andrew Silk— Mt. St Helens Hayley Standage— South Sister Carly Starke— Mt. Adams Miel Michelle Steele —Mt. Shasta Gwenn Stover— Mount St Helens Elizabeth Thorstenson— Mount St Helens Mike True— Mt. Adams Artem Vasilyev— Mt. Hood
REINSTATEMENTS: 29 Louis L. Barke (1989), John Barkhausen (2018), Jerry E. Barnes (1996), Patrick S. Beeson (2016), April C. Berlin (2013), Gregg Bieber (2019), Grant C. Blythe (2009), Margaret H. Butler (2015), Steve Chapin (2019), Kathleen Cochran (2001), Ashly H. Crockett (2007), Kevin D. Dier (2005), Joe G. Fox (2014), Candace L. Gossen, (2009), Steve Gunther (2002), Mary K. Herrera (2013), Jessica Joyner (2018), Dennis W. Knable (2009), James A. Krzmarzick (2015), Hye J. Kwon (2008), Steven T. Loos (2014), Megan McCarroll (2018), Darlene Nelson (1989), Jarl Opgrande (2018), John B. Palmer (2015), Athena Pappas (2000), Charles E. Reneau (2011), Eric Swanfeldt (2018), and Grant R. Van Hoomissen (2009)
DECEASED: 0 MEMBERSHIP ON OCTOBER 31: 2,352 (2020); 2,514 (2019)
8 MAZAMAS
Top: New member Henry Axon on the summit of South Sister in July 2020. Middle: New member Amanda Dyckman on the summit of Old Snowy. Bottom: New member Dziugas Radzius and his son on the summit of Mount St. Helens in May of 2020.
MOUNTAINS AND MARTENS
by Tom Bode
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lifted my pack from the car to my back: 41 pounds, with 21/2 liters of water. Ideally enough to keep me out of trouble for the next three days. Another backpack went up onto another pair of shoulders. Then, still shuddering from the weight, we started to hike at a trailhead closest to the car. Walking quickly on the gentle downhill slope, we were a mile in when we realized our mistake: it was the wrong trailhead and the wrong way—the correct path was hidden and uphill. No matter. Hiking is not about arriving anywhere quickly.
My friend Kevin had joined me for a three-day trip to the high Cascades of Washington State, in a basin of lakes between Mt. Adams and Mount St. Helens. Kevin’s ultralight backpacking equipment showed that his employer compensates him well for his aptitude with spreadsheets, and that he spends his money wisely. A few years ago, he embraced a simpler way of living, giving up a sports car and a house in the suburbs for a late-90s Subaru and a studio carriage house heated by a leaky wood stove. As we backtracked, we discussed our “false” start. It’s hard to know where a trail in the woods will lead and easy to head towards an unwanted destination. But turning around on a trail is easy, whereas Kevin’s decision to sell his car and his house was not. Maybe ideas of right and wrong, lost and found, belong more to a world of cars than trees. Maybe walking among trees means always looking for
the right path. Anthropologists tell us that two hundred years ago, this land was enjoyed by people who spoke a language called Sahaptin, and before them by people almost entirely unknown to us, and so on, stretching back 10,000 years. I think people have been lost here the whole time. The current authorities give us GPS, maps, and signs in an attempt to keep us from straying, but that hadn’t stopped Kevin and me from finding welcome uncertainty. In these woods, taking the direct path is overrated and identifying the “right way” requires more philosophy than cartography. In fact, I recommend starting your hike with an unexpected detour. It allows time for clearing your mind, an essential first part of any trip into the wilderness. Matters such as that thing your boss said, whether the fridge can be fixed without calling a repair service, and bank account balances must be tossed out and left on
the side of the trail. You can pick them up on your way out if you insist. Itineraries, speed, and timetables are also completely incompatible with your purpose and you must resist their development. If you find a time-based sense of urgency growing in your mind, throw a pinecone at it. The only senses of urgency you need relate to bodily inputs and outputs. Ditch the watch entirely and exist on human time for a few days. It’s the psychological equivalent of a juice cleanse. At the first ridge we zagged up the switchbacks. I worked hard to keep up with Kevin, who had claimed half of the summer for running and hiking and had the long stride to prove it. My employer, like most, is jealous of absences of more than a day or two; many of us live in that grim empire. One wonders whether Kevin’s unsupervised spreadsheets even noticed that he was gone at all.
continued on next page
Above: View of Mt. Adams from Sawtooth Mountain. Photo by Tom Bode
DECEMBER 2020 9
In fact, I recommend starting your hike with an unexpected detour. It allows time for clearing your mind, an essential first part of any trip into the wilderness.” Martins, continued from previous page Perhaps it was his mental lightness from a summer spent out of doors that kept Kevin’s eyes up while I prattled away. He spotted it first: Martes caurina, the pacific marten, sitting in the fork of a short pine tree. About the size of a large city squirrel, with the triangular ears and pointed face of a fox, the marten is a predator that easily transforms mice into meals. This one had seen enough humans to be curious, and watched us with the sustained attention of a tiny killer. Another marten, a mate or a sibling, climbed into view, and they stared at us together. Unsure of how to respond, I took some blurry photos and we left. Soon we descended the other side of the ridge and lakes appeared around us. Instinctually, we began the essential human ritual of selecting a place to sleep. Humans (and martens) exist in relation to their homes—either coming or going, building a new one or enjoying a familiar one. Nomadic people carry a home with them, whether a 39-foot RV or a collapsible yurt; at a minimum, the vagabond has his bindle. Today, a clearing in the huckleberry bushes would suit us. Blue Lake is the largest and deepest lake in the basin and was our destination
10 MAZAMAS
for the day. Hiking trails ran like rivulets towards its shore. But it was as secluded and peaceful as the state fair on Labor Day. Several horses fouled the shallows of the lake, attending to equine inputs and outputs; the humans seated on top of them cackled. Dogs barked at the horses. Other humans yelled at the dogs. All around, kids nowhere near the water swung sticks attached to strings attached to hooks—fishing, but for what? A scheme of “designated campsites” permitted tents only in certain places. They were all full¬, fortunately, so we moved on. Another lake, a few minutes away, became our home for the night. Though only a quarter-mile off the trail, the thick forest hid this lake and modern mapmakers had not named it. Earlier people, people without maps and for whom trails were a convenience, not a directive, undoubtedly knew this lake and called it something, but we did not know that name. Prior campers had built a fire ring and cleared a small area overlooking the lake. Late day sunshine kept away the chill. We tested the site with an aggressive mid-afternoon nap and found it perfect. That evening, we sat around the campfire, making toasts to life with drinks
from small bottles. I slept by the fire under the stars. Although the night was warm, I kept my sleeping bag zipped up. Out here, the world was bigger and closer; I needed a boundary between it and my home, now shrunk to the inside of a mummy bag. In what was perhaps an omen of an imminent injury, the next morning was unexpectedly warm. Hiking is always better the second day: Your pack is lighter, your feet are used to the abuse, your mind is clear. Not far down the trail, we met a forest ranger carrying a six-foot shovel. She spouted rules at us like she’d swallowed a brochure. She admonished us to be sure to bury our toilet paper so she didn’t have to—hence, the shovel. Old joke: Forest rangers love their job, but hate the (toilet) paperwork. She said there was an open campsite on the far shore of Lake Wood. Driven once again to find a place to stay, we beelined for it. Kevin spied another marten on the trail that stared at us briefly before running up the hill. No mustelid ranger appeared and told it to stay on the trail, but I assume even martens have their own rules to follow. The campsite at Wood Lake was excellent: the woodsy equivalent of a beachfront hotel room. Naps to celebrate.
Facing page: Kevin takes a midday rest with the huckleberries. Right: Late summer color in a subalpine meadow. Photos by Tom Bode
Rested, we were drawn away from the lake and towards Sawtooth Mountain, one of the few high points interrupting the landscape of forest and lakes. As much as lakeside camps comfort campers at night, high peaks tempt them during the day. The official trail to Sawtooth Mountain stayed in the tree line, well below the shield volcano’s namesake spires. We instead took the rough climber’s trail through small trees to the base of the bare rock. There, the trail dissolved, and we each held our fate in our hands. I liked the look of a saddle to the right. Kevin called it too vertical and went left. I was nervous. Moment by moment, a climber tempts tragedy and tests his skill and luck against reality. On the one hand, I had not been to a climbing gym in close to a year and instead of a helmet, I wore a dirty trucker hat. On the other hand, the volcanic rock was rough and the route was easy. Don’t overthink it. I climbed the short wall to the saddle. Terrific views— terrifying exposure. My decisions now could rewrite the next 50 or 100 years for me and mine. Climb again. I made it to the spire. It wasn’t El Cap, but it didn’t matter. A bit of exposure and uncertainty and I felt the reality of my existence. Climbing let me play on fate’s knife edge. Mountains clean people. For hundreds of years, scree slopes like those beneath Sawtooth Mountain were the sites of sacred rites for indigenous people including the Chinook, Salish, and Modoc. After years of preparation, young people departed the warmth of their homes for steep rocky hillsides where they constructed pits in the large loose rocks. Through fasting and physical exhaustion they sought something essential and immaterial. Perhaps unsheltered for days in rain and wind, some died. Rocky slopes from British Columbia to southern Oregon are dotted with these pits, an enduring testimony to a search for wisdom. Those pits remind me that across centuries, humans look
for answers in the mountains. I cannot mimic rituals that I don’t understand, but I know that in this time, for me and many others, a mountain washes away the stink of a city and lets the important things shine brightly. From the top of Sawtooth Mountain, I saw the patrons of the Pacific Northwest, Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, et al., meeting in their regular forum, conversing through the millennia. This was 36 hours before the Labor Day windstorm that would start a conflagration in the Cascade foothills, bringing weeks of smoke and evacuations. For now, the air was clear and the future bright. What we couldn’t know didn’t bother us. We left Sawtooth Mountain and descended back to camp, spiritually changed. Away from the apparent danger of the peaks, I was in good spirits on an unremarkable bit of trail. Suddenly I fell, my left arm catching a root and twisting behind my back, causing the head of my humerus to depart its longtime home in the socket of my shoulder and journey a few centimeters laterally. It didn’t go far, but the divorce was traumatic, the two bones having been happily joined for over 30 years. I lay on the ground, unable to breath at this new development. A few seconds later, the ball popped back into the socket. Time resumed; my shoulder was again united. I inhaled. Later, a slim doctor with short gray hair would say that I fractured my humerus, predicting months of minor pain and weakness. But at Wood Lake, for a short
while, I was still free among the trees. In the long afternoon shadows, we swam in the cool water, disturbing only dragonflies. I went to bed clean under a clear sky. With Advil. The next day was our last. A morning chill off the lake made the sun all the more welcome. We chose to hike out on an abandoned trail, through meadows glowing with late-summer color. In a few weeks, precipitation would turn the vegetation to mush, but now golden grass and red leaves waved in the breeze. Our pace slowed, we ate huckleberries, we watched little birds in short trees. The trail was faint and disappeared altogether in some places. We forced ourselves to stay the course, feeling that getting lost here could be the right thing to do. At the car, the trip ended. The timelessness was gone, a schedule snapped back into place, and the memories of trails, trees, and martens quickly dimmed, but it all seemed so nice that I tried to write it down. Tom Bode lives in Milwaukie. He has been a member of the Mazamas since 2016 when he took BCEP with Bruce Yatvin. The books of Brian Doyle and Edward Abbey inspired him to write this piece. DECEMBER 2020 11
A LOOK BACK AT WHAT WE ACCOMPLISHED IN OCT. & NOV. Cody Evans and Rick Craycraft repaired the concrete on the front steps the MMC, and Joe Boyce took on the volunteer job of repainting them.
Over two weekends, the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) committee offered five Intro to Cragging Skill Builders and two Climbing Techniques Skill Builders. Eager participants got to enjoy clear skies and cool (in some cases a little too cool) fall weather as they took to the rock to learn new skills. Thank you to the ICS volunteers who made these opportunities happen. It’s great to see our community figuring out new ways to deliver programs during these strange times. • Jeff Hawkins has been hard at work the last two months on quotes/specs/preparation for our new HVAC system (installed in mid-November); and he and John Meckel are working on new shelving to be installed in the copy room once the HVAC system is installed. • A small crew of volunteers worked to get Mazama masks out the door (sorting, packaging, labeling, and stamping). • The Leadership Development’s virtual Outdoor Leadership Program continued, holding several sessions this month.
Our first Mazama-hosted hybrid Wilderness First Aid (WFA) classes was were held in November. All were small groups (10 people or fewer) and followed Mazama COVID policies. We are excited to be able to offer WFA to our members and our community—thanks to our First Aid Committee for making this happen! The more people trained in wilderness first aid, the safer we will all be out on the trails.
The Lodge Committee hosted a fall work party up at the Lodge on October 31 that was so productive they were able to cancel their planned Sunday session.
• The Nordic and Backcountry Skiing Info sessions are coming up in December and January—virtually of course—to answer questions for prospective applicants on what the program will look like. • We held a committee orientation, where dedicated committee members tuned in to get all the details on how to be successful in their Mazama work. • Bob Lockerby has been hard at work indexing the Mazama Bulletin through 1973.
A huge THANK YOU to all of our volunteers who are giving their time, energy, and creativity to create opportunities that serve our community, to teach eager students, to train our current and prospective leaders, and to maintain our facilities during these unprecedented times. 12 MAZAMAS
MAZAMA 2020 ELECTION
REFLECTIONS & ANSWERS TO FAQS by Barbara Weiss
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he election is over! Well, the Mazama election is over and, fingers crossed that by the time you read this, the national election will also be over. We had a deep and extremely talented field for the 2020 Board of Directors (Executive Council) election. There were 852 votes cast for seven candidates. The membership elected Lori Coyner, Bob Breivogel, and Reena Clements to the board, and Ardel Frick, Kaitlyn Rupert, and John Rettig to the Nominating Committee.
The Nominating Committee would like to thank all the candidates for their willingness to run and for the time and effort they put into their applications. During the election we often receive comments and questions on the ballots. This year we noticed a few trending questions and comments that we’d like to address here: What does the Nominating Committee do? The role of the Nominating Committee is to seek out and vet candidates for election to the Board of Directors. We do that by working with the current board and the leadership of the Mazamas to understand current goals and projects and determine what special skillsets may be needed on the part of the candidates. We delve into the Mazama membership and develop a list of potential candidates to call. Understanding the candidates’ interests, backgrounds, and skills is the first step in establishing a short list. The Nominating Committee creates an outreach communications plan to drive interest in both running for the Board and voting in the election. We proctor the election and report results at the Annual Meeting. How do the Nominating Committee candidates get nominated? Candidates are not nominated per se, and anyone interested in joining the Nominating Committee can run by simply declaring their candidacy. We are always looking for folks willing to lend their time and skills to the committee. If
you’re interested, email us at nominating@ mazamas.org. Why vote when there are only three people running for Nominating Committee and all three automatically get elected? Ideally, we would have had a contested election this year for the Nominating Committee candidates, as we did for the Board. Uncontested elections are at best an oxymoron and at worst often feel like a pointless exercise. When we are unable to secure enough candidates for a contested election, we ask for the membership to vote as a show of respect and support for the candidates who did offer to join the Nominating Committee. Why are there only three candidates for Nominating Committee? In similar fashion to the Board of Directors, the Nominating Committee’s nine members serve three-year terms. Every year, three members complete their tour of duty and three more get elected. Too Many Middle-Aged White Men! We heard from several members that it is “disappointing that five of the seven candidates for Executive Council are middle-aged-to-older white guys!” It is true that our membership skews toward this demographic. How does this change? Well, it starts with each one of us. We can all do more to support efforts to engage and inspire more women, younger members, people of color and people from different socio-economic backgrounds. Change takes time and persistence. We are a volunteer organization, and we all have busy lives, but the Mazamas is us! Don’t
wait for someone else to initiate change … as the saying goes “be the change you want to see!” Where can I go to see the number of ballots cast per candidate? The election results are published in the Bulletin in the issue after the election. There you can find the total tally and how many votes each candidate received. If you have additional questions, please don’t hesitate to reach out via email: nominating@mazamas.org. We’d welcome your guest attendance at our meetings. We meet the third Thursday of each month via Zoom.
A candidate doesn’t have to be selected by the Nominating Committee to run. Anyone who is interested can initiate a petition, acquire 75 supporting signatures (confirmed by the Mazama office), to secure a slot on the ballot.
DECEMBER 2020 13
A Joint Statement on Climbing Route Names
Smith Rock, Photo by Kristi Reidel
This statement was published online on August 27, 2020
T
he American Alpine Club, Appalachian Mountain Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Mazamas, and The Mountaineers join with those speaking out and taking action against racist, sexist, and otherwise derogatory route names, and we welcome the conversation about how best to move forward as a community.
Historically in the U.S. climbing community, the opportunity and privilege of naming a route has been given to the first ascensionist. Naming a route is an earned honor, responsibility, and form of artistic expression. When done well, a route’s name tells a story. It often cleverly captures the experience of establishing or climbing the route or a unique characteristic of the formation. At worst, a route name inscribes onto the rock an individual’s prejudice, insecurity, and violence. These names deface the special places where we climb. Names like “N*****s Wall,” “Case of the F*gs,” and “Slant Eyes” signal that not all people are welcome, creating a hostile environment that we should not accept. Recent movements across our nation, including Black Lives Matter, SafeOutside, and Me Too, have been a catalyst for many
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individuals and organizations to recognize the institutionalized and systemic oppression built into the foundation of our society. Though not a new problem, we are grateful to Erynne Gilpin, Ashleigh Thompson, and Melissa Utomo, along with Brown Girls Climb, Melanin Base Camp, and Natives Outdoors, for bringing focus back to this problematic practice. As individuals and as a community, we must recognize that words matter. The climbing community as a whole is accountable for the language we use to identify and describe the places where we climb. We must own the toxicity in the practice of naming routes. It’s time for change. As signers, our five organizations represent 150,000 members nationwide. We commit ourselves to building a more respectful community. That includes working collaboratively with climbers across the country to change names of existing routes, providing anti-racism and anti-harassment training for our members and volunteer leaders, and auditing our own publications and websites to determine a process for expunging offensive route names. These changes represent only a starting point. They are a necessary first step toward making the climbing community more inclusive and our crags and mountains welcoming to all. In unity, American Alpine Club Appalachian Mountain Club Colorado Mountain Club Mazamas The Mountaineers
Melanated Mazamas
Left to right: Michaela Merrill, Rodny RodríguezCarrasquillo, Karen De Vera, Samantha Kang. Photo: Karen De Vera.
by Lynny Brown
A
re you Black, Indigenous, or a Person of Color (BIPOC)? You’re invited to join the new Melanated Mazamas group!
WHO WE ARE
Create opportunities for BIPOC to join the Mazamas and stay. This means frankly identifying and dismantling cultural and systemic barriers in the Mazamas that push BIPOC folks away, and creating new spaces and systems. Influence the culture of the Mazamas so that it is an organization that understands and acts for justice, equity, diversity, and inclusion for all underrepresented identities.
HOW WE WORK
The Melanated Mazamas is an affinity space for BIPOC climbers to meet and support each other as well as to foster a greater sense of community within the Mazamas. Within mountain communities, there are pervasive social norms and structures that can alienate and exclude Black and Brown people. Until those issues are addressed and there is more representation and visibility of BIPOC climbers and hikers in the Mazamas, affinity groups are an important way for many people to feel safe, supported, and part of a community.
We are a newly forming collaborative group that holds monthly meetings. We plan to facilitate: • Non-affiliated Mazama events: it can be a hike, climb weekend, gym meet up, or anything else. • Affiliated Mazama climbs, hikes, education, and other events. • Two bigger Melanated Mazamas socials: spring and fall.
OUR GOALS
You can join us on Facebook (this page is a BIPOC-only space) or send an email to melanated@mazamas.org to get involved.
Build community through events, education, and social gatherings. By organizing BIPOC climbing trips to the crag and to the mountains, we hope to increase the visibility of BIPOC climbers while providing a supportive environment for enjoyment of the outdoors. Friendship and mentorship is our first priority. Increase the number of BIPOC leaders and mentors in the Mazama community and beyond.
JOIN US!
Are you a BIPOC hike leader or climb leader and interested in hosting a Melanated Mazama event? We would love to connect with you. Please email melanated@mazamas.org DECEMBER 2020 15
Mazama Equity Statement
INTRODUCING THE MAZAMA EQUITY STATEMENT
by the Mazama DEI Working Group
by Claire Nelson, Education and Culture Manager
Approved by the Mazama Executive Council October 22, 2020
T
he mission statement of the Mazamas is intrinsically tied to and depends on our organization prioritizing equity, inclusion, and diversity. We can’t inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains without acknowledging the exclusive history of the outdoor industry, and practicing an equitable approach moving forward. This history has created structural and cultural barriers, including indigenous erasure from the places we recreate in and care about so deeply, and stunted the potential for a wide diversity of people to love and protect the mountains.
While we have members and participants of many races, ages, and genders, the Mazamas currently is a largely white, affluent, and able-bodied organization, both in leadership and participation. Many of our structural and cultural practices further white supremacy by marginalizing, excluding, and oppressing the diversity of people who might otherwise participate in our programming. This is a loss to our organization morally and functionally. We believe diversity is important to the Mazamas because it broadens our knowledge, increases our creative ability to innovate, and creates a stronger and safer community for everyone. Diversity is about more than representation, it is fundamentally about inclusion. We can build diversity by practicing inclusion that actively prioritizes and elevates those who have been historically excluded from the Mazamas and the greater outdoor community. We are very much in the beginning phases of our journey towards
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becoming an organization that can inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains. Our goals are to increase the safety and inclusion of all aspects of the Mazama experience by ensuring equitable resource dedication to all groups, intentional programming, and increased representation of traditionally marginalized people in our leadership. The Mazamas will actively recruit members of underrepresented groups to leadership positions within the organization in order to begin the process of creating a truly inclusive direction and vision. We understand that we need to address certain cultural norms, and actively work toward cultivating a culture of physical and psychological safety, where people trust they can participate as their whole selves. We know that we still have, and will always have much work to do. Thank you for coming on this journey with us.
I
n October of 2019, the Mazama DEI (Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion) Working Group began visioning a statement that called upon our values as an organization towards work that is inclusive, equitable, and antiracist. After review, the Executive Council approved the statement this October. This statement is at once a recognition of our current cultural climate at the Mazamas, a hopeful view of the future, and a commitment to do better.
The Equity Statement was a collaborative effort of the Mazama DEI Working Group, past Executive Director Mitsu Iwasaki, the current Mazama staff, and the Executive Council. This document is only our first version, and we look forward to continuing the discussion on how to be a more inclusive and just organization, particularly as we get feedback and engage in dialogue with our community who is most impacted by marginalization and injustice. Look for more on our statement on our website, our eNews, and the Mazama blog!
Conservation Corner THE ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY AND CLEAN AIR ACT BOTH TURN 50 by John Rettig
I
t’s previously been noted in several Conservation Corner columns that the 1960s and 70s formed a pivotal period in awaking both the public and legislators to a national environmental, conservation, and land use awareness. The year 1970 stood out above all others, and we’ll wind up this year observing not just one but two very big and influential pieces of legislation that passed late that year—the Environmental Protection Agency and the Clean Air Act.
A little background is in order here: Although probably not intended at the time, the legislation coming out of that period ended abruptly in 1980, and the laws passed then still form the backbone for today’s laws. We look back at that time period as the golden period, simply because of the breadth and scope of what happened, and what was passed: • 1962: Publishing of Rachel Carson’s Silent Spring • 1964: Wilderness Act passed, initially designating 9.1 million acres of wilderness • 1967: Environmental Defense Fund founded • 1967: Oregon Beach Bill passed • 1968: Wild and Scenic Rivers Act passed • 1968: National Trails Act passed • 1968: Redwoods National Park formed • 1968: North Cascades National Park formed • 1969: UNESCO conference on Man and His Environment • 1970: National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) signed into law • 1970: First Earth Day observed • 1970: EPA established • 1970: Clean Air Act passed • 1972: Supreme Court decision Sierra Club vs. Morton, giving conservation
• • • • •
• • •
and environmental organizations standing 1972: Federal Water Pollution Control Amendments of 1972 passed 1972: DDT banned 1973: Endangered Species Act passed 1974: Discovery of atmospheric ozone depleting chemicals; phase out began 1975: Hells Canyon Protection Act passed, establishing a National Recreation Area 1976: National Forest Management Act (NFMA) passed 1980: Superfund Act passed 1980: Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act passed; added 56 million acres of Wilderness
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY Leading up to the late 1960s, it was widely viewed that we needed a coordinated federal response to the many problems we were seeing with air and water pollution. Up to that point, much of the enforcement, and some of the legislation, was left up to the individual states. Results were mixed, and since air and water pollution usually didn’t respect state boundaries, it was viewed as an issue needing a national solution. Following the passage of the National Environmental Policy Act in January 1970, it was felt that we finally had some structure in place to have a coordinating federal agency oversee
environmental protection, and that agency would be the EPA. The EPA was created in December 1970 through Presidential executive order. Initially, it was primarily a technical assistance agency that set goals and standards. However, new acts and amendments soon to be passed by Congress gave the agency its regulatory authority. The burning Cuyahoga River in Cleveland, Ohio, caused by spontaneous ignition of illegal water pollution discharges by twelve different companies lining its banks, became one of its first issues successfully addressed and resulted in immediate improvements. This particular event also became a national poster child for the reason we needed the EPA. The agency conducts environmental assessment, research, and education, and has the responsibility of maintaining and enforcing national standards under a variety of environmental laws, in consultation with state, tribal, and local governments. It delegates some permitting, monitoring, and enforcement responsibility to U.S. states and the federally recognized tribes. EPA enforcement powers include fines, sanctions, and other measures. The agency also works with industries and all levels of government in a wide variety of voluntary pollution prevention programs and energy conservation efforts.
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DECEMBER 2020 17
Conservation, continued from previous page CLEAN AIR ACT Although the first air pollution legislation was passed in 1955, it was only intended to fund federal research into air pollution. Starting in the 1960s—first 1963, then later 1967—we started to see legislation for actual control of air pollution. Initially the U.S. Public Health Service administered control of air pollution, mostly to address areas subject to interstate air pollution. It wasn’t until the 1970 Clean Air Act that it grew some teeth, authorizing the development of comprehensive federal and state regulations to limit emissions from both stationary (industrial) sources and mobile (primarily auto, bus, truck, and off road equipment) sources. Four major regulatory programs affecting stationary industrial sources were initiated: • National Ambient Air Quality Standards (NAAQS) • State Implementation Plans (SIPs) • New Source Performance Standards (NSPS) • National Emission Standards for Hazardous Air Pollutants (NESHAPs) Furthermore, enforcement was substantially expanded, and since passage occurred at approximately the same time as the EPA, the new agency administered these requirements. Since 1970, commonly found air pollutants have been reduced by 50 percent, air toxics from large industrial sources, such as chemical plants, petroleum refineries, and paper mills have been reduced by nearly 70 percent, new cars are 90 percent cleaner, and we have ceased production of ozone-depleting chemicals. The Clean Air Act was amended in 1977, and again in 1990. Today, the 1990 law forms the basis for the current Clean Air Act, but it is heavily rooted in the 1970 legislation.
WHAT CAN A MAZAMA DO? If you want to know the status of EPA violations and enforcement actions close to your own neighborhood, simply enter your zip code at echo.epa.gov/ to get a listing. And as a citizen, you can also initiate reports of suspected violations at echo.epa.gov/ report-environmental-violations.
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MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS Just before the Bulletin went to print, Governor Kate Brown issued new restrictions for the state and for Multnomah County related to slowing the cases of COVID-19 in our area. There are enhanced restrictions on groups and gatherings for two weeks for thefour weeks in Multnomah County and two weeks for the entire state. Under the Outdoor Recreation Guidelines the Mazamas can operate hikes with up to 6 people, adhering to our COVID policies.
Go to mazamas.org/calendar and search on Hike to view the current hike schedule and sign up for a hike. Please review the Mazama organizational COVID-19 policies prior to signing up for a hike, and adhere to all policies during any Mazama activity.
MAZAMA CLASSICS
For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.
SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.
CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.
Congratulations to these Mazamas on their achievement of long time membership. OUR NEW 25 YEAR MEMBERS FOR 2021
OUR NEW 50 YEAR MEMBERS FOR 2021
■ Kathleene Adams-Belusko ■ Ute Baker ■ Barbara Balko ■ Jerry E Barnes ■ Myde Boles ■ Mary Ellen Collentine ■ Dragan Dokic ■ Eric Einspruch ■ Jan-Erik Fougli ■ John Godino ■ Michael J J. Goetze ■ Brian Goldman ■ Donna M Harris ■ Bruce Hope ■ Christena Keller ■ Lori S Freeman LaDuke ■ Kelly Marlin ■ John Meckel ■ Bill D Middleton ■ Nicole Peltz ■ James William Pennington ■ Vincent Pimont ■ George Pubanz ■ Joe Powell ■ Rick A Rust ■ Mary E Vogel
■ Lee M Stevenson ■ Jerry O Andersen ■ Elizabeth Ann Brodie-Knope ■ Kevin R Brown ■ Bill J Burke ■ Robert A Caldwell ■ Mary Ann Firmin ■ Robert E Cargni ■ Steve Estvanik ■ Derek J. Brown ■ Gerald G Mock ■ Patricia Harwood Pins will be mailed out in midDecember to all that have renewed for 2021.
DECEMBER 2020 19
SAFE BACKCOUNTRY RECREATION THIS WINTER
by Ali Gray
A
s I write this, the United States and the world are waiting in limbo for the results of the 2020 presidential election. What else am I and my fellow winter recreation enthusiasts waiting for? Snow! Each winter, people across the Pacific Northwest get out in greater and greater numbers to enjoy the wonders of winter backcountry recreation.
In fact, backcountry skiing and snowboarding is currently the fastestgrowing segment of the snow sports industry. At the same time, the numbers of people getting out in other ways—think snowmobiling and snowshoeing—are also increasing in leaps and bounds. This is a trend that has been happening for well over a decade. But then COVID-19 hit. Thrust into a worldwide pandemic in the middle of the prime spring season, ski resorts across the country shut down. With nowhere else to go, and with the prospect of everyday attractions such as concerts, bars and restaurants, museums, and other social gatherings canceled for the foreseeable future, people turned to nature. Trailheads overflowed with recreationists, and backcountry touring equipment sold in record numbers throughout March and Good social distancing in the Mazama Backcountry Skiing course. Photo: Ali Gray
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April. This trend continued through the summer, with many areas across the Pacific Northwest and beyond seeing more people on our public lands on weekdays than are normally seen during peak weekends and holidays. Weekend warriors like myself started to seek out trails that are more remote and off the beaten path to avoid the crowds. What does this mean for winter? Ski resorts have implemented plans to remain open during the pandemic, but the reality is that the number of people riding the lifts this winter will be greatly reduced. Winter hiking, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling will also likely be on the rise as those who took to the trails all summer and fall will want to continue the activity while urban activities remain limited. It’s pretty easy to see that backcountry recreation will see record numbers of people out on the
slopes and trails this winter. Although I’m delighted more folks will be experiencing nature in the snow, I’m worried about the consequences of more people with less experience in volatile winter environments. So how can you stay safe?
COVID-19 PRECAUTIONS First off, a no-brainer. Just because you’re outside doesn’t mean you’re safe from COVID. Social distancing and wearing a mask are still important. Remember that studies have shown that fleece neck gaiters and buffs are less effective than cotton face masks and surgical masks. Also remember, cotton is normally a big no-no in the winter because it’s cold when wet and dries slowly, so you may need to bring a handful of masks on your outing, especially if you’re going to be breathing heavily.
KEEPING YOUR DISTANCE (IT’S NOT JUST FOR COVID) We’ve all heard about avalanches and the risks they pose. Sliding snow isn’t just dangerous for the person that triggers the avalanche—many slides travel much further down the slope than you’d think, and can easily trap people down below who weren’t involved in the initial triggering event. With more people on the slopes this winter, this will be especially important. Be aware of your surroundings and how busy your trail is, and avoid traveling at the bottom of large slopes or in gullies. If you cross a steep, snowy slope, go one at a time. This way, if an avalanche were to occur, only one person is caught instead of your entire group.
SPEAKING OF DISTANCE … If you’re like me, you may be traveling to fartherout and more remote places this winter to avoid the crowds. Keep in mind that while the trail may not be a conga-line and there may still be fresh powder, you’re also farther away from help. Carrying an emergency beacon is a really good idea, and also, in addition to the 10 essentials, make sure to carry extra warm clothes, socks, gloves, and maybe even a camp stove and small bivy sack. Remember that even a small injury can become way more difficult to manage when it’s freezing and there is snow on the ground, and that it gets dark quickly and early this time of year.
SPEAKING OF AVALANCHES … There are going to be more people out this winter, so it’s super important each one of us does what we can to keep each other safe. While many online resources are aimed at skiers and snowboarders, knowledge of avalanches is just as relevant and important for snowshoers, hikers, climbers, and motorized users. If you haven’t already, attend an avalanche awareness class! These free events are put on by local businesses across the Portland metro area, with many also being offered online this year. Awareness classes last a few hours and will teach you about the types of avalanches, where they occur, and how you can best avoid them. Also, Know Before You Go (kbyg.org), avalanche.org, and Avalanche Canada (avalanche.ca/start-here) are great online resources for avalanche education. The Northwest Avalanche Center (nwac.us) and the Central Oregon Avalanche Center (coavalanche.org) are our go-to places for avalanche information and forecasts in the region. Want to go further? Take an Avalanche 1, 2, or Rescue course! These indepth classes cover risk management, terrain selection, and rescue techniques, and are imperative for anyone who spends time in the mountains in winter. Classes are filling up faster than normal, so make sure to sign up soon on the AIARE website at avtraining.org.
LEARN MORE There is so much more to learn about traveling in the backcountry in winter, which won’t all fit here. For more, check out my article covering avalanches, winter weather, and preparing for the unexpected on page 8 of the January 2020 Mazama Bulletin: tinyurl.com/MazJan2020
Above: Avalanche debris on the climbing route on Mt. Shasta, 2019. Left: Expect less-than-ideal trail conditions in the winter. Bring good boots, gaiters, and traction, like yak-tracks or microspikes. Photos: Ali Gray
DECEMBER 2020 21
WE CLIMB HIGH VOLUME 2 IS ALMOST HERE!
We Climb High Volume 2
A chronology of the Mazamas 1965–2015
I
n 1965, to mark our organization’s 75th Anniversary, the Mazamas published John Scott’s We Climb High: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1894-1964. Scott spent over a year of his own time, reading, writing, and editing the 100-page work.
Today, the record of the next 50 Mazama years is nearing completion! Thirty Mazama members and staff have spent hundreds, if not thousands, of hours combing nearly a century’s worth of Mazama Bulletins, Annuals, and other documents to produce We Climb High Volume 2: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1965–2015. Chapters are ordered by year, and include other special topics, such as Jeff Thoma’s look back at the Mazama motto. We’re including excerpts from that chapter, and Jeff Litwak’s entry on 1998 in this month’s Bulletin, to whet your appetite for this historic volume.
FROM “1998” BY JEFF LITWAK
FROM “WE GO UP?” BY JEFF THOMAS
...The Mazamas sponsored a Mountaineering Issues of Tibet Conference on April 25–26 in Portland. The conference focused on Tibetan culture, history, environment, geography, religions, trekking, and mountaineering. The Explorer Post, under the direction of Peter Green, hosted the 20-year reunion of the 1978 American K2 Expedition. The event brought together nine of the thirteen members of the expedition. Members of the 1938, 1953, and 1960 teams also attended. Summing up the gathering, K2 veteran and Mazama honorary member Dee Molenaar stated, “It was the greatest gathering of mountaineers, friendliest, and most purposeful gathering I’ve seen in many years.” Longtime Mazamas continued to share their knowledge through print and other media. Sonia Buist published Around Mt. Hood in Easy Stages, a hiker’s guide that divides the Timberline Trail into eight stages. Ray Sheldon was interviewed for a video documentary about the recently re-established and renamed Mazama Trail. Both Sonia’s book and Ray’s interview are available in the Mazama Library. In 1998, the Library also acquired one of the rarest titles in mountaineering literature, Kulu and Lahoul by Colonel C.G. Bruce. The book, published in 1914, chronicles Colonel Bruce’s sevenmonth exploration of the Himalayan range.
The Mazama motto, Nesika Klatawa Sahale, appropriated from the Chinook people, first appeared in print on the front cover of the 1896 Annual. It appeared as part of the seal (now called a logo) featuring the head of a mountain goat and a USGS topographical map symbol. Oddly, Louis B. Akin, creator of the logo, did not include the motto in his original drawing of the seal as shown with his article inside that same 1896 Annual. It is thus a mystery who added the motto as pictured on the cover, although the Mazamas offered a partial explanation the following year. According to Note and Comment in the 1897 Annual (page 284), “The words…have been informally considered the motto of the society, though never regularly adopted by it.” Perhaps because the motto was considered informal, there was no sign in the early records who suggested the motto. The 1897 Annual was, however, clear what the slogan meant. The words, “are from the Chinook Jargon, the inter-tribal language of all the Indians of the North Pacific Coast, and mean, literally, ‘We Go Up.’” Since the Chinook word Sahale can also mean “high” and sometimes even “sky,” the motto can also be translated as, “We Go High” or more freely as “We Go to the Sky.” The loosest translation ever mentioned in print is “We Went Long-way Off.1” From 1897 to 1925 the logo, as printed on both the front cover and cover page of the Annual, only showed Nesika Klatawa Sahale with no translation. When the 1926 Annual was published the phrase “Chinook Jargon for We Climb High” was added under the logo and motto, and printed on both the front cover and the inside cover page. As far as is known, this is the first time an English translation had accompanied the logo. 1May 1926 Mazama Bulletin
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What’s in Your Snowpack?
The Value of Community Science and Community Snow Observations
by David Hill
Y
ou don’t need to be a backcountry skier/rider or an alpinist to benefit from reliable information on the snowpack. Now, you probably are if you are reading this, so think about it for a minute…what do you typically want to know and where and when do you want to know it? You might be looking for an avalanche forecast right NOW, which requires site-specific information on the vertical structure and stability of the snowpack. You might be looking for less-detailed information on coverage in the near future– how long of a hike will you have from trailhead to snowline next weekend? Will the bergschrund at the base of the couloir you want to ski still be filled in two weeks from now? Will I have to wax for water again? And, could someone please tell me if the Pearly Gates will be in shape next month? Well, even if the front country is more your style or (gasp!) you don’t even ski/ride/climb, you still benefit from information about the snow. Snowpack plays a huge role in regional water resources in the Pacific Northwest. Oregon and Washington each receive about 150 cubic kilometers of precipitation each year. In beer units, that’s 300 trillion pints of hoppy IPA, and a fair bit of that falls as snow. Water planners need regional-scale information on snow depth, density, and distribution in order to make accurate estimates of seasonal water yields months out into the future. Meeting the information needs of these different user groups is a challenge because
of these different spatial and temporal requirements. Fortunately, there are a lot of sources of snow data that can help, although they vary in terms of accuracy, coverage, and resolution. Insitu, or on the ground measurements have historically been the most common. These measurements include those made by personnel on the move in the field and also those at fixed, automated stations. An example of the former could be an avalanche forecaster, heli-ski guide, or ski patroller who records a measurement
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Above: Sampling snow density with a federal sampler near Thompson Pass, Alaska. Photo: Ryan Crumley. Right: A sloppy day in coastal Alaska. Photo: Dave Hill
DECEMBER 2020 23
Sentinel satellite imagery of the Mt. Cook region, New Zealand
Snowpack, continued from previous page (pit profile, snow depth, snow density, etc.) in a database such as SnowPilot. Fixed, automated snow telemetry (or SNOTEL) stations measure snow depth with an ultrasonic sensor and snow-waterequivalent (SWE) with a snow pillow, which is a fluid-filled bladder that measures pressure and therefore the weight of the overlying snowpack. In the western United States, we benefit from an incredible network of these stations, operated by the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS). We have over 800 of these sites that are currently active, and many have periods of record of over 40 years. This is a gold mine of snow data that allows us to understand the current state of the snowpack and also how it has changed over the past several decades. As if that was not good enough news, there are numerous remote sensing assets 24 MAZAMAS
that are available to us. NASA has several missions that use airborne Light Detection and Ranging (LIDAR) to map snow depths in exquisite detail. At higher elevations still, there are many satellite missions (NASA, European Space Agency, etc.) that provide precise, high resolution images of snow cover and other snow-related information. The spatial coverage and the frequency of measurement vary among the different missions, and the measurements can be complicated by cloud cover and other environmental conditions. Since no measurement campaign can measure everywhere, every time, computer modeling can be used to provide estimates on snowpack conditions at other places and times. At the national level, the National Operational Hydrologic Remote Sensing Center produces the Snow Data Assimilation System (SNODAS) data product, which has a 1 km spatial scale and a daily time step. SNODAS grids from 2003 up to today (it is an operational
model) can be viewed at a number of websites including www.climateengine. org. The 1 km scale of SNODAS is fine for many applications such as water planning, but is too coarse to resolve local snow redistribution properties such as drifting and avalanching. All of the data sources and modeling programs described above help snow scientists, snow safety professionals, and recreationists better understand the current state of the snowpack and also long-term (decadal scale) trends in snowpack characteristics. Opportunity still knocks, however. High-elevation regions of complex terrain are where most of the snow is found. However, that is not where the SNOTEL stations are. Due to the need for vehicular access for installation and maintenance, most SNOTEL sites are in areas of moderate elevation and gentle terrain. The Community Snow Observations (CSO; communitysnowobs.org;
@communitysnowobs) project began in 2017 to test the idea that backcountry users could help to fill the data gaps that exist in high-elevation mountain areas. In concept, it’s a perfect match. Backcountry skiers, riders, and climbers cover long distances, thrive in high elevations and in complex terrain, and go far away from roads! The CSO vision was that data crowd-sourced by the backcountry community would then be assimilated into high-resolution snowpack models, and these model products could be returned to the public to be obsessed over while planning shenanigans for the coming weekend. In addition, the data would be used in collaborations with other NASA programs that focus on snow processes. So, if you’ve ever dreamed of being a rocket scientist and working with NASA, Elizabeth Burakowski measures snow depth in Tuckerman’s Ravine while Ryan Crumley here’s your chance! checks the latest on Instagram. Photo: Joe Klementovich (klementovichphoto.com). The idea of creating a large network a vision of a crowd-sourced information of a descent? The snow needs a few more of community scientists is not a new network for the outdoors. Mountain Hub minutes to corn up…pull out your probe, one. In the context of weather and snow check the depth, and tell us all about it. observations, the Community Collaborative was acquired by Mammut in 2017 and then just this summer, the CSO project acquired Cooling your heels waiting for your out-ofRain, Hail and Snow Network (CoCoRaHS) it. Easy-to-follow tutorials on using the app shape partner to catch up? Might as well has observers distributed throughout are also found at our website. With just do some snow science while you wait…and the United States who measure rainfall, a bit of practice, you can stop, assemble wait. snowfall, and hail. However, the CoCoRaHS your probe, log a measurement and be on Participation in CSO has grown project is largely a ‘backyard observer’ your way in a few minutes. So, stopping steadily since the project started. We type program and does not sample high to shed a layer? Pull out your probe and alpine environments. And, community continued on next page send in the data. Ripping skins at the start science does have some challenges. The measurements are opportunistic and depend upon decisions made by the participants themselves. CSO can offer some suggestions and guidance, but ultimately must rely on the decisions made by its participants about where and when data come from. Another challenge has to do with data quality control. Tutorials are provided but, in the end, CSO recognizes that measurements are coming from a diverse body of contributors with differing levels of experience with data collection. Participating in CSO is quick and easy. Depth measurements are made with an avalanche probe or other measuring device. Protocols on making measurements and selecting representative sites are provided on the CSO website. Your smartphone is the second piece of gear you need. Even if you’re out of cell range, the GPS on your phone knows where you are and what time it is, critical pieces of information for the project. Third, you need to have the Mountain Hub app on your phone. Mountain Hub was founded in 2015 with
Map of CSO submissions DECEMBER 2020 25
Map of modeling domains and sample image of snowpack in western Wyoming. Image: Christina Aragon
Snowpack, continued from previous page have had about 15,000 submissions from about 3000 unique users around the globe. Measurements to date have been dominated by North America, but we are starting to make inroads in other areas around the globe. So, what’s in it for us? Well, CSO gets unique, high-elevation data that we get to study and share with NASA, and, as noted above, NASA gets to use these data points to validate many of their other snow measurements. But, community science should not be a one-way street. Successful community science projects are collaborative exchanges and CSO is invested in listening to our participants about ways to improve our project and also in delivering to our participants useful, timely information about snow in their region. The CSO project started up in Alaska and our model simulations there have demonstrated that data contributions
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from community scientists dramatically reduce errors in our snowpack models. Since then, as our project has grown, we have rolled out modeling efforts in many other areas in the western United States. The goal we are working toward is real-time, high resolution snowpack information in all high elevation areas. We named the project Community Snow Observations for a reason… community. Backcountry users who see the value in community science and who see the value in trading a bit of their time for the best available information on snow and water resources are the true core of CSO. There is no crowd-sourcing without the crowd and we sincerely hope you will participate this winter. Be sure to visit communitysnowobs.org, sign up for our email list, and follow us at @ communitysnowobs on Twitter and Instagram for the latest project results and information. Have a great and safe season.
David Hill is a professor at Oregon State University and a National Geographic Explorer. For over 25 years, he has studied how water behaves from snowy mountain headwaters to coastal environments. He collaborates with other scientists interested in water’s response to climate drivers and works with stakeholders to provide information on water resources. He currently co-leads the Community Snow Observations project, a citizen science project funded by NASA to improve understanding of our physical environment. Hill has also recently been an Erskine Fellow at the University of Canterbury, New Zealand. No matter the hemisphere, if it is spring time, you’ll find him out on skis sampling the snow between mountain summit and trailhead.
Mazamas in the Field: Mountain LEAD Educator Update by Claire Nelson, Education and Culture Manager and MEA liaison
O
ver the last several years, the Mazamas has been an active member of the Mountain Education Alliance (MEA), a cooperative partnership of some of the oldest and largest volunteer-based climbing and mountaineering organizations in the United States, including the American Alpine Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Mazamas, and The Mountaineers. With the help of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), the MEA has developed a set of national climbing and mountaineering standards (MQLs) and certification programs to help improve the quality and consistency of volunteer-based climbing education to benefit recreational climbers throughout the United States. The certifications, known as the Mountain LEAD (Leadership Education and Development) certificates, focus on leadership and education in many disciplines of mountain sports, including rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, skiing, and more.
Each organization in the MEA has its own regionally-specific and volunteerinfluenced programming. All member organizations will have a certification assessment, which results in an individual becoming a Certified Educator in either Sport, Traditional, or Top Rope Climbing (and more to come). Here at the Mazamas, we’ve developed certificate courses designed to prepare students to be effective educators in their respective mountaineering standards (or MQLs). Originally, the MEA planned to welcome members of the UIAA to the United States for an audit of Mountain LEAD programs in the spring of 2020. In order to prepare for the audit, the Mazamas piloted two programs, Top Rope Climbing Educator in September 2019, and a Traditional Climbing Educator in October/ November 2019, as well as scheduled a Sport Educator pilot in May 2020. Of course, as the COVID-19 pandemic arrived, our scheduled pilots, assessments, and audit were canceled or rescheduled. Fortunately, since last spring, we’ve been able to again test out our programming, as well as more intentionally collaborate with our partners in the MEA, particularly the Mountaineers. We were finally able to run our Sport Educator
pilot (after a second reschedule due to wildfires) over a brisk weekend in the Columbia Gorge with American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified guide Andrew Archer. Additionally I traveled to Vantage, Washington to run a Traditional Climbing Educator Assessment pilot with staff from the Mountaineers and International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) certified guide Forest McBrian. The Mazamas and Mountaineers collaborated on the assessment documentation, structure, and facilitation, and successfully assessed four Traditional Climbing candidates from the Mountaineers (members from the Mazamas were invited to participate, but were unable to join). All four candidates passed their exam, and we now have four Certified Traditional Educators out in the world! The next steps for the Mazamas include a Traditional and Top Rope Climbing Educator Assessment pilot this spring, a second Sport Educator pilot for our participants who had to cancel this fall, a Sport Educator Assessment pilot, and finally, an official Traditional and Top Rope Climbing Educator course next fall.
A student demonstrates anchor building during the Mazama Sport Climbing Educator pilot. Photo: Claire Nelson.
WHAT ROLE DO THE MAZAMAS SEE THE MOUNTAIN QUALIFICATION LABELS (MQLS) PLAYING IN THEIR ORGANIZATION? MQLs and their associated training programs will play a vital role in the Mazamas and across the nation. For the first time volunteer leaders and educators will have an internationally recognized set of skills, knowledge, and competency to aspire to. Broadly, these standards will provide a platform for high quality and consistent climbing education. They will bring clarity to the roles and responsibilities of a volunteer leader and educator, formalize what it means to be a mentor, and open up pathways to volunteerism for people who may not have chosen that path previously. We would like to thank Matt Sundling and Justin Rotherham for their leadership on this project, as well as all the incredible Mazamas who’ve been involved at some point along the way.
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MAZAMA LODGE WORK DAY REPORT OCTOBER 31, 2020 by Brook Harris, Lodge Committee Chair
T
he Mazama Lodge Work Day for fall 2020 was held this past Halloween, on October 31. Many volunteers joined us for a beautiful day on Mt. Hood. With much change in the air around the Lodge, everyone showed up excited to get involved and enjoy the weather.
While we had planned for a two-day event, our crew was so effective we were able to accomplish all possible tasks in just the single day! Major Projects completed: • Firewood: Two cords of firewood were relocated and stacked on the south deck. Several logs are ready for a spring workday for us to continue to process at a later date. • Snow shutters: With most shutters in place since last winter, this was taken care of swiftly with the last remaining shutters in place protecting our kitchen. • Trail clearing: We were able to clear our trail to the road after recent winds had knocked some trees across it. The rope and trail were looking good and clear! • Mattresses: All mattresses were cleaned and sanitized and are ready for the future reopening of the Lodge. • Kitchen: The kitchen got a quick rearranging to make it more usable for our winter caretakers, while also getting a terrific wipe down on all surfaces.
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Charles shared a masterclass with our current caretaker Seeger and a few others on how to manage the Wolf stove and pellet stoves in the lodge as well. It was terrific having Charles there to support with his vast knowledge of the Lodge and its history. After a busy morning, we enjoyed sandwiches from the High Mountain Cafe before wrapping up our day and a few last projects. Thanks to all the attendees for helping make it such a successful day! Especially Rick and Wanda Amodeo, Patrick Atchison, Charles Barker, Lacey Breton, Melissa Crest, Seeger Fisher, Joe Fox, Dyanne Foster, Clayton Hawkes, Angela Schaefer, and Tammy Stephen. If you’d like to help with projects at the lodge, please sign up for the Friends of the Lodge email list, as we will have sporadic projects throughout the winter to continue to improve on the building. We hope to reopen in 2021, and our volunteers will be key to our success.
Top: Former Mazama Lodge manager Charles Barker talkes with two committee members. Bottom: Unidentified volunteers clears fallen trees on the trail to the Mazama Lodge. Photos: Lodge Committee.
Mazama Climbing Challenge
by Angie Brown, Advanced Rock Committee
Is your New Year’s Resolution to climb more? Join us in pushing your climbing skills to the next level with our monthlong climbing challenge starting January 1, 2021. This challenge is brought to you by Advanced Rock, and the goal is to reach the highest number of vertical feet climbed! Climb at home, at the gym, outside, wherever! And log it all in our shared Google Sheet, and one winner will receive a prize at the end! Register your name at tinyurl.com/ MazClimbingChallenge to participate, and get ready for January 1. Keep climbing!* *We understand that climbing during the winter often involves climbing indoors, and with partners. Please follow all current COVID-19 recommendations and guidelines, such as wearing masks, keeping at least 6 feet of distance when at all possible, and climbing with members of your household or COVID-circle.
Patrick Thorpe leading out on the crux 3rd pitch of Fishhook ArĂŞte on Mt. Russell, High Sierra on September 3, 2020. Photo: Jesse Applegate
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EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES (Executive Council) DATE: OCTOBER 5, 2020 ON ZOOM By: Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary ATTENDING: Joe Eberhardt, President; Aimee Filimoehala, Vice President; Rick Amodeo, Treasurer; Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary; Jesse Applegate, Reena Clements, Lori Coyner, Judith Baker, Bob Breivogel, Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director; Mathew Brock, Library and Historical Collections Manager. WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER ■ The meeting was called to order at 7:32 p.m. by President Joe Eberhardt. Joe noted a quorum was present. REVIEW & APPROVAL OF THE MINUTES
Joe Eberhardt asked for approval of September meeting minutes. Minutes were approved by consensus of the board. BUSINESS AGENDA
■ Approve Kern & Thompson as our auditor for FY20. Kern & Thomson are the recommended choice. Have audited the Mazamas for the past several years and are up to speed on the organization. ■ Fee will be higher this year due to the inclusion of the dissolution of the Mazamas Foundation, fee will run $13,500 plus an additional $2,100 each for both the Mazamas and the Mazamas Foundation for preparation of tax forms. Total cost estimated to be $17,700. ■ Sarah Bradham noted that this will be the earliest the organization has engaged the auditor in recent years. The goal is to have the audit completed by the end of January, six to seven months earlier than recent years. ■ Rick Amodeo made a motion to engage Kern & Thompson as the auditors for FY20, the motion was seconded by Judith Baker. Motion passed unanimously. MAZAMA EQUITY STATEMENT ■ Joe asked that the board approve the Mazama Equity Statement as presented by the Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) working group. ■ Jessie Applegate noted an issue with one of the lines in the statement, saying that 30 MAZAMAS
it gave the impression that outsiders would be telling the Mazamas how to run operations. Asked for clerification on the meaning. ■ Reena, co-author of the statement, noted that was not the intent, rather that the statement was tied to the previous sentence and needed to be taken in context. ■ Jesse made a motion to approve the statement with the proposed edits. Amanda Ryan-Fear seconded the motion. Motion passed 8–0, Bob Breivogel abstained. APPROVE CREATION OF MELANATED MAZAMAS
■ Joe Eberhardt noted that this new Black, Indigenous, and People of Color (BIPOC) affinity group would be similar in nature to the Classics or AYM in substance. Many of the details of the group, including a formal name is contingent on approval of the concept by the board. ■ Lori Coyner asked if the group would be specifically for climbers or if it would be open to anyone? Sarah remarked that it would be open to anyone, much like the Classics are open to anyone. Sarah also noted that she recommended to the authors of the proposal that they present it the board for approval of the idea, then work out the details. Several board members asked about the proposed membership and estimated size of the potential group. Reena noted that the intent was to help draw in potential climbers and hikers into the organization while also giving existing BIPOC members a place of their own. The board agreed that the proposal needed to be revised to make it broader in its scope. Sarah remarked that board approval would send a strong message of support for the idea in general. ■ Lori made a motion to approve the create of a BIPOC affinity group pending further development of the idea. Amanda seconded the motion. Motion passed unanimously. BOARD DEVELOPMENT PROPOSAL Joe Eberhardt explained that this new board committee would focus on development,
fundraising, and would support the work of Laura Burger, Mazama Development Coordinator. The new committee would function similar to the current Finance and Investment committees. The committee, as described, would have two current board members, the development coordinator, and two additional member with fundraising and development experience. The goal of the committee is to help fundraise for the organization.
■ Jessie remarked that the name was confusing and misleading. He understood it to be a committee to help develop the skills of Executive Council members. He is confused on the purpose of the committee. Sarah remarked that many nonprofit boards have a Development Committee , that the term Development is common usage for fundraising in nonprofits, and that it is common that board members engage in fundraising to support their organizations. Members of the committee would be expected to engage in fundraising asks, events, and donor recruitment. Members will work with Laura on development plans and strategies for the Mazamas. Several board members expressed support for the idea as proposed. Judith Baker asked if the committee should be included in the upcoming bylaw revisions, Sarah recommended it not be. ■ Amanda Ryan-Fear made a motion to create a Development Committee. Rick Amodeo seconded the motion. Motion passed unanimously. BOARD COMMITTEE MEMBERSHIP ■ Bob volunteered to serve on the Investment Committee ■ Jessie volunteered to serve on the Finance Committee ■ Lori volunteered to serve on the Development Committee ■ Joe volunteered to serve on the Development Committee. Council meeting was adjourned at 8:21 p.m.
Support the Mazamas and Help Us Inspire Everyone to Love and Protect the Mountains! RECURRING GIFTS Donate monthly, quarterly, or annually with an automa�c recurring dona�on. Click “make this a monthly recurring dona�on” when giving online, or contact us directly to set up a custom giving plan.
ONE-TIME GIFTS Donate at any �me through our website, or mail a dona�on to the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.
$$
EMPLOYER MATCHING GIFTS Make your dona�on or volunteer hours go further with help from your workplace! Employers like Apple, Microso�, and many others will match your dona�on or volunteer hours with a dona�on directly to the Mazamas.
PLANNED GIVING Gi�s of stock, IRA distribu�ons, and charitable gi� annui�es can all create a las�ng impact at Mazamas while giving you important financial benefits as well.
ESTATE GIFTS Estate gi�s create a las�ng legacy for you and opportuni�es for future genera�ons of Mazamas. If your estate plan already includes the Mazamas, please let us know so we can make sure it will be used as you envision it. Thank you!
Reach out to Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, for more informa�on about any of these op�ons and to help you create a personalized plan. laura@mazamas.org · 971-420-2505 · www.mazamas.org/DONATE
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Trey Schutrumpf, Kristi Riedel, and Lauren Saxton (left to right), on Mt. Washington in the Olympics (WA). Photo: Jack Kuo