IN THIS ISSUE
Above: Hiking in the Wallowas. Photo: Andie Wright. From Andie: I'm choosing to hike lesser known trails/areas that are more open to the elements (these feature a plethora of meadows and many large-area viewpoints), and also trails that allow for easy access to step aside in order for others to pass when the trail narrows to single-track.
CONTACT US
MAZAMA STAFF
MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org
MITSU IWASAKI Executive Director mitsuiwasaki@mazamas.org
Hours: CLOSED to public access
SARAH BRADHAM Operations Director sarah@mazamas.org
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: CLOSED to public access.
PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor, (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org
Executive Director Report, p. 4 Challenges & Opportunities, p. 5 Virtual Series, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 9 Long Walks in a Small Neighborhood, p. 10 Conservation Webinars, p. 14 Climate Justice, p. 15 Christine L. Mackert, MD, p. 16 The Outdoors Are for Everyone, p. 18 COVID Policies, p. 22 Mazamas Foundation FAQ, p. 24 Membership Report, p. 25 Mazama Wild Summer Camp, p. 26 Shasta Surprise, p. 28 Birding While Hiking Mt. Tabor Park, p. 30 Lige's Lumber Summit: When Mt. Hood Had a Lookout, p. 33 Obituary: Warren Gilfillan, p. 36 Obituary: Dick Pugh, p. 37 Mazama Lodge, p. 38 Mazama Classics, p. 38 Mazama Hikes, p. 38
LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org
CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org
Members: Jonathan Barrett, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Katie Polanshek, Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):
Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
Cover: Reena Clements, Mazama Trail Trips & AYM Committee Chair, tackling the Mt. St. Helens challenge on Mother's Day in May 2020.
For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/contactinformation.
MAZAMA STATEMENT ON EQUITY & RACISM
Being and feeling safe is a right for all people. This is not true for too many of our fellow citizens. In the last few months, we have witnessed George Floyd and Ahmaud Arbery murdered, and Christian Cooper threatened while birdwatching. In the wake of these events, our country has erupted in violence and in riots. Dr. Martin Luther King said: “Certain conditions continue to exist in our society, which must be condemned as vigorously as we condemn riots. But in the final analysis, a riot is the language of the unheard. And what is it that America has failed to hear? It has failed to hear that the plight of the Negro poor has worsened over the last few years. It has failed to hear that the promises of freedom and justice have not been met. And it has failed to hear that large segments of white society are more concerned about tranquility and the status quo than about justice, equality and humanity. And so in a real sense our nation’s summers of riots are caused by our nation’s winters of delay. And as long as America postpones justice, we stand in the position of having these recurrences of violence and riots over and over again. Social justice and progress are the absolute guarantors of riot prevention.” We have failed to hear the injustices. In our outdoor spaces, in recreation, and in our industry, we direct indignities and injustices towards Indigenous, Black, and brown people. It has been a part of the fabric of America since our beginning. There is inequity in who is welcome, who is safe, and who has access to resources and opportunities. America has systemically oppressed people. As climbers, hikers, backpackers, trailrunners, and backcountry skiers, our identity is formed on our public lands and waters, and through our activities on national forests and parks. These spaces were created for us by displacing those who were here before us. Parts of our industry are sustained on the backs of Indigenous, Black, and Brown people. The outdoors today is not welcoming or just to all people. As a 125-year-old organization in a state originally created only for white people, the Mazamas have played a role in the oppression of minorities, perhaps not with intent, but the impact is no less. As an organization whose mission is to "Inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains," we have work to do. Our pillars to educate, build community, and advocate for the protection of and access to our public lands and water is sound. But, we must redefine "everyone." We, as an organization and all of us as individuals that make up our community, have significant work in learning, understanding, and evolving our actions to create a more just and equitable world. Our vision to inform the mountain culture in the northwest must include our work to acknowledge our past and actively redefine ourselves to create equitable access to our mountains and a just future for all. We are working to become better. —the Mazamas
This statement was sent via email to our email list on June 3, 2020. We felt it was important to include it in our print publication as well, to ensure it reaches a wide audience.
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From the Executive Director
MY NEXT CHAPTER Hello Mazamas.
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hank you for inviting me to be a part of your community. My time here as Executive Director has been short, and reflecting, I am deeply grateful to have been invited warmly into becoming a Mazama. I will continue to maintain my membership with pride and stay involved to the extent I am able from Colorado. We, members, volunteers, and staff, are brought together in our love of adventure and the mountains to form the Mazamas. And while I am transitioning to the Front Range, my love and heart will always be with the mountains of the Pacific Northwest.
MITSU IWASAKI MAZAMAS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
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A year ago, I accepted the opportunity to lead the Mazamas with intention to serve our community for many years; to be a part of the Mazamas as we grew to become an increasingly inclusive community, as we continued to strengthen our education programs and activities, and as we strengthened our work in advocacy to protect and preserve our natural places. I stepped into a vision and strategic plan developed in 2017 to ensure the Mazamas stay relevant into the next century; the pillars of education, community, and advocacy in that plan are still right and our way forward. When we formed 125 years ago, we formed simply as a climbing club. The needs of the world have evolved and are now far too complex for non-profits to survive financially, in reputation, or morally without focusing on and serving the larger community that supports the existence of the non-profit. Over the first weeks of June, our country as a whole has started to learn the meaning and impact of systemic and institutionalized racism; we are in a moment, as the Mazamas, where we can choose to move forward, with humility, into difficult conversation. There are inequities and barriers built into our institution, and there are inequities and barriers built into climbing and the outdoor industry just as there are throughout all aspects United States. My heart is wrecked knowing that I am leaving in a moment in which we can start to redefine ourselves. With that in mind, I know that I am making the right decision to lead the American Alpine Club in similar conversations. I will take my experience and learning from the Mazamas to the American Alpine Club and lean into difficult conversations, create accessible entry points and education in climbing, and continue to build on the collective voice of climbers across America to ensure we protect and preserve our wild places. As I work on my transition plan, I leave with the comfort of an exceptionally passionate, engaged, and skilled staff, committees, and leaders; I know the vacant spaces left by my departure will be filled with grace. Thank you, Mazamas. Mitsu
Mazama Update: Challenges & Opportunities by Sarah Bradham, Operations Director
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he last few months have posed significant challenges to the Mazamas. As the COVID-19 pandemic swept across the world, we canceled education programs, closed the Mazama Mountaineering Center, and delayed or canceled activities. It was with the health and safety of our community at the forefront of our minds, that we took these action steps.
Recognizing the potentially devastating economic impacts of lost jobs and wages due to the pandemic, we fully refunded participants who were registered for cancelled programs, even programs that were already in progress. In order to bridge the gap in our budget during this period of closure, we applied for the Payroll Protection Program (PPP) through Heritage Bank and received $112,472. We also applied for the Economic Injury Disaster Loan (EIDL) through the Small Business Association and received and advance of $8,000. The rules for the PPP have changed multiple times since we applied. While we were 90 percent confident when we applied that we could achieve maximum forgiveness of the loan, the change to the rules ensure that the entire amount of the PPP loan, minus the $8,000 EIDL advance should be forgiven. We will apply for forgiveness in mid-July when Heritage Bank begins the forgiveness application process. Fortunately, prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, we were already in the process of reducing expenses at the Mazamas to create a more nimble and fiscally responsible organization. Those reductions have involved renegotiating and canceling contracts, reducing staffing, and evaluating all of our business services. While these last few months have been difficult, they have also provided a variety of opportunities for the Mazamas. Thanks to our staff and volunteers, we are operating a Virtual Series and are reaching more people with that series than we could with in-person presentations and trainings. We have created new classes including Train the Trainer and Outdoor Leadership that are being delivered virtually, using Zoom and Google Classroom. Our committees are already in the process of brainstorming how they can virtualize programming, in the likelihood that we will not be able to operate large format, in-person, hands-on programming in the near future. As it is often said, in every challenge lives a greater opportunity, and at the Mazamas we are taking that to heart. While we can't know what our future holds, we know we can work together to meet it head-on and create opportunities within our new reality.
WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE A MAZAMA? EDUCATION ADVOCACY COMMUNITY BUILDING
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hat does it mean to join the Mazamas? As a member you are part of one of the most respected mountaineering and outdoor organizations in the country. Our members are passionate outdoor individuals who are dedicated to our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. The Mazamas and its members work towards our mission through education, advocacy, and community building.
AS A MEMBER YOU WILL: ▶ Meet new friends who share your love of the outdoors. ▶ Contribute towards scholarships to get underserved populations outdoors. ▶ Enjoy discounted rates on Mazama activities and discounts at local outdoor retailers and gyms. ▶ Receive our monthly Mazama Bulletin magazine. ▶ Join the American Alpine Club (AAC) at a reduced rate (once you join you will receive a code to use on the AAC website). ▶ Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume Mazama Mountaineering Library. ▶ Receive free rescue insurance anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters and up to $10,000 ($5,000 with Mazama membership; $10,000 with joint AAC membership). ▶ Volunteer! You can join our team and lead trips, classes, and other activities. JUNE/JULY 2020 5
MAZAMA VIRTUAL SERIES: LEARN, GATHER, EXPERIENCE Join us on Zoom or Facebook Live to participate in our online virtual series. We are adding new presentations regularly. Go to mazamas.org/virtualseries to get all the details. If you have an idea for a presentation, fill out our presenter form on that same page.
MT. HOOD, SOUTH SIDE 101
THE MANY FACES OF WY'EAST
PRESENTER: MEGAN BANKER JULY 7 AT 7 P.M. Register at: tinyurl.com/MtHood101
PRESENTER: REGIS KRUG JULY 9 AT 7 P.M. Register at: tinyurl.com/manyfacesofwyeast
So you want to climb Mt. Hood? Mt. Hood looms over Portland and is one of the most climbed mountains in the world. The summit was the birthplace of the Mazamas and is on the bucket list for new and expert climbers alike.
Wy'east is the original name for Mt. Hood, given by the people of the Multnomah tribe who first inhabited the area.
Join Mazama member and climb-leader in-training Megan Banker as she talks about her experience climbing Mt. Hood for the first time. We will go over logistics, planning, and some of the mental/emotional aspects that come with the first ascent of Mt. Hood via the South Side Route.
Mt. Hood is one of the most popular recreation destinations in the Portland area, surpassed only by the Columbia River Gorge. More than 10,000 people attempt to summit Mt. Hood each year, making it the most visited snow-covered peak in America. Tens of thousands more seek solace on the hundreds of miles of trails snaking their way around the mountain. There are a few very popular places like Ramona Falls, Paradise Park, and McNeil Point, where everyone tends to gather. Join Regis Krug, who has hiked nearly every trail on Mt. Hood for a trip around the mountain to learn about the extensive trail system and get some ideas for your next hike away from the crowds.
PATIENCE: THE QUEST TO SECTION HIKE THE PACIFIC CREST TRAIL PRESENTER: TOM CLARK JULY 14 AT 7 P.M. Register at: tinyurl.com/patiencepct This presentation will cover Tom Clarke's long-term quest to section hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Join us in learning about the history of the PCT, trail culture, logistics of section hiking, ultralight equipment, and Tom's successes to date. An informative and entertaining look at what it takes to hike the entirety of this iconic American long-distance trail.
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MELTING MOUNTAINS SERIES: MORE THAN A DECADE LATER Join the Mazama Conservation Committee and Mazama Honorary Member, glaciologist Dr. Andrew Fountain, for a series of presentations on the impact of climate change on alpine environments. Dr. Fountain and the Conservation Committee have gathered colleagues and local experts to share their work with us and bring their climate research to our backyards.
SHOULD I TEACH MY KIDS TO SKI? THE FUTURE OF SNOW IN THE WESTERN UNITED STATES PRESENTER: ANNE NOLIN JULY 15 AT 7 P.M. Get more details and register at: tinyurl.com/kidsski
GLACIOLOGY ON A GLOBAL SCALE PRESENTER: PROF. ANDREW FOUNTAIN, PSU DEPT. OF GEOLOGY AND DEPT. OF GEOGRAPHY JULY 22 AT 7 P.M. Get more details and register at: tinyurl.com/glaciology
CLIMATE CHANGE AND FOREST CONNECTIONS IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PRESENTERS: DR. JESSICA HALOFSKY, Director of the USDA Northwest Climate Hub and the US Forest Service Western Wildlands Environmental Threat Assessment Center & PROF. DAVID PETERSON, University of Washington, School of Environmental and Forest Sciences JULY 29 AT 7 P.M. Register at: tinyurl.com/climatechangepnw This webinar will cover the effects of a warmer climate on tree species, including drought, wildfire, and insects. Highlights of a recent climate change assessment for north-central Oregon will be presented for water resources, vegetation, fisheries, wildlife, and recreation. Management responses that facilitate resilience to climate change will also be discussed. Jessica Halofsky is the director of the USDA Northwest Climate Hub and the Forest Service Western Wildland Environmental Threat Assessment Center. Jessica received an M.S. in Forestry from Penn State and a Ph.D. in Forest Science from Oregon State University. Her research interests include fire and disturbance ecology, vegetation dynamics, and climate change (ecosystem impacts and adaptation). Jessica pioneered one of the first climate change vulnerability assessment and adaptation projects with Olympic National Forest and Park. Since that initial project, Jessica has co-led eight other sub-regional to regional-scale climate change vulnerability assessment and adaptation projects around the western U.S. (all described at www.adaptationpartners.org).
WHERE’S WATER?: THE PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE OF STREAMFLOW IN THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS PRESENTERS: GORDON GRANT AUGUST 5 AT 7 P.M. Register at: tinyurl.com/whereswatercascades The Cascade Mountains take their name from the myriad rushing waters that drain the slopes of this volcanic range. But where does all this water come from, and what will happen to it in the future as the climate warms? This talk will explore the fascinating linkages among the geology and evolution of the mountain range, the geography of water, and patterns of streamflow now and in the future. Gordon Grant is a Research Hydrologist with the USDA Forest Service at the Pacific Northwest Research Station in Corvallis, Oregon, USA, and also Courtesy Professor in the College of Earth, Ocean, and Atmospheric Sciences at Oregon State University. His involvement with rivers began as a decade-long career as a whitewater river guide on western US rivers. He received his Ph.D. in fluvial geomorphology from Johns Hopkins University in 1986 and began work for the research branch of the U.S. Forest Service. His research focuses on understanding how stream networks, watersheds, and landscapes respond to geomorphic changes due to land use, dams and dam removal, volcanic eruptions, and climate changes in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. He is a Fellow of both the American Geophysical Union and the Geological Society of America, and is President-Elect of the Earth and Planetary Surface Processes section of AGU.
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INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL Application Dates: July 16–August 5 Class Begins: September 1 Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time. ICS picks up where BCEP left off and teaches the skills necessary to be a strong assistant on advanced Mazama climbs, organize private climbs of your own, and for those who choose, take the next step into Climb Leader Development. The course takes place over a period of nine months and includes lectures, field sessions, and social activities. The program will be altered this year to mitigate the risk of COVID-19. Get all the details at mazamas.org/ics, including a recorded video of ICS Info Night.
2020 SUMMER CLIMB SEASON DUE TO GET UNDERWAY The Mazama climb season has been delayed due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. As of June 29 we had 31 scheduled climbs starting after July 15.
FALL MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID & FALL CPR CLASSES CANCELLED Our Mountaineering First Aid classes and CPR classes are hands-on courses and due to the ongoing pandemic will not be offered this fall. Look for winter course offerings.
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VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Mazama Publications ■ Do you have a story you want to tell? ■ Do you find yourself correcting grammar in strangers’ Facebook posts? ■ Do you wish you wrote more frequently? ■ Are you looking for a way to give back to your fellow Mazamas?
CONTRIBUTE AN ARTICLE TO THE BULLETIN Collaborate with one of our editors to write a feature for publication. We’re in need of stories of climbs, travels, and learning moments from your life. If you have an interesting connection in the world of climbing or some knowledge you would like to impart, we’re interested. Not sure how to start? Connect with us, and we can either interview you or work with you to gather your thoughts. Email us at: publications@ mazamas.org, and one of our friendly editors will be in touch.
BECOME A PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE MEMBER Publications Committee members serve two major functions: 1. Edit the Bulletin 2. Contribute to the Bulletin This means if you enjoy finding and fixing grammatical and other typos. But committee members also get the chance to practice our writing skills in a range of ways: book reviews, interviews, creative nonfiction, and historical research pieces to name a few. The Publications Committee is an amazing opportunity to stretch stiff writing muscles. We’re also a pretty relaxed group of people who genuinely enjoy working together. Join one of our monthly Zoom calls to find out more. Our next call is July 21. Email us at publications@mazamas.org, and we will send you our Zoom link.
ARE YOU PASSIONATE ABOUT EDUCATION? WE WANT YOU! We are seeking volunteers to serve on the Basic Climbing Education Program Committee. We're recruiting anyone passionate about educating others in basics of mountaineering. You do not need to be a recent BCEP grad or have been involved in BCEP. You do need a love of the mountains and a desire to help shape the content of BCEP in a way that best serves learners in this extraordinary time! Contact us at bcep@mazamas.org, and let's talk.
Photos: Teresa Dalsager
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Long Walks In A Small Neighborhood article & photos by Jonathan Barrett
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y neighborhood has secrets. There is a purple TARDIS that doubles as a lending library. There is a place where succulents hang from a wall because gravity’s hold does not apply. There is a plastic silver karate figure mounted to a tiny wooden wagon. And I know many, many more of its secrets. t the end of the March, when it became increasingly clear that A we were in this for the long haul and voices echoed through the internet calling for people to stay home; when the forest service shut down the trails, the Access Fund called for a moratorium on climbing, and PMR asked us to stay out of the mountains; when this chorus of voices collectively hollered a singular message, I was distraught because wild spaces were my spaces.
A micro-library, disguised as a TARDIS.
A tiny food pantry.
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S o I started walking. “How long would it take to walk every street in my neighborhood?” I wondered. What if I pretended to be the mail truck and traverse every lane and avenue and cul-de-sac? What would I find at the end of each lane? At least, would I find a way to quell the restlessness in my spirit by wearing down the restlessness of my feet? This is what I found. I found that I did not know my whole neighborhood, only a handful of streets that I traveled day after day. I found a topography that naturally funneled me away from some areas (the slopes of Mountain Park) and towards others (the relative flatness of Stephenson). I found derelict buildings where one-eyed cats slink through tall grass and yellowed curtains obscure cracked windows. I found a whole city park three-quarters of a mile from my
house, eight and a half acres of ivy and trees and coyote pups yipping for their mother. I found a small farm where a half dozen cows chewed solemnly on thick green grass, oblivious to a world full of anxious humans. My total-miles-walked is now over two hundred. One might think that this would take me far, far from home, but, as the crow flies, I have never been more than two miles away from my front door. The rules I gave myself were simple, walk every public street--all the way to the end. I logged it all on one giant Gaia track so that I knew where I had been and where I had yet to go. Inevitably I would cover some streets over and over again. The road in front of my house is a mess of spaghetti from the coming and going, coming and going. Zooming in, one can see the lollipop arcs at deadends where the sidewalk curves a slow 180-degree turn.
continued on next page
Top: Some fences have sprouted springtime flowers.
Above: Snails have no problem with stay-at-home orders.
Left: One of the three cows on a neighborhood farm.
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Long Walks, continued from previous page Going to the end is the only way to find these treasures; they are rarely visible from the intersection. I found a small glen where teenagers go to smoke weed away from prying eyes. I found “For Sale” signs on houses more expensive than I thought my neighborhood warranted. I found a mosque and Islamic school where rail-thin boys in Air Jordans shoot hoops together. I found a mother running her child back and forth, back and forth along the sidewalk to wear him out because she was worn out herself. Some days I walk three times. Some days only once. I haven’t let the rain stop me. Why should it? It would matter little if I were hiking the PCT. How was this any different? My goal either way would be an unfathomable distance that hardly translates to the scale of a single stride. Mexico to Canada? All of Far Southwest? Some mornings, when the light had filled my bedroom even though it is hardly six, I slip out of bed as quietly as I can so as not to disturb my wife, and go lace up my shoes on the front porch. Sleeping
Even the trees seem to have sprouted masks.
has become fretful now, and I often wake not yet rested, feeling antsy, wanting to move but feeling tethered by regulations which say, “Stay Home, Saves Lives.” So I have been walking my neighborhood with no real goal but to keep walking until we are done. My neighborhood has secrets, and I keep discovering them as I walk. I found a family that draws bases in the street for a game of kickball. I found purveyors of riddles printed in a tidy hand and hung from a jacked-up fourwheel drive. I found deep inequities from one block to the next. I found a riot of color in wildflowers bobbing their heads over a humble parking strip. I found some relief from not knowing.
Secret lanes abound in SW Portland.
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We are the mountain people. Everything we make is designed by Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it. when you really need it.
NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND W W W . RJUNE/JULY A B . E Q U 2020 I P M E13N T
WHAT CAN A
MAZAMA DO? ENJOY CONSERVATION WEBINARS
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hat can a Mazama do as we slowly begin to emerge from the COVID-19 lockdown? On thing you can do is check out the many hour-long, educational, and entertaining webinars our Mazama conservation partners have been featuring on their websites. Friends of the Columbia Gorge (gorgefriends.org) has three Gorgeous Wildlife Webinars, starring American pikas, native bees, and Western pond turtles. Has anyone ever seen a pika in the Gorge? Probably not, but you may have heard their distinctive whistle from scree slopes. It is fascinating to learn why this alpine critter is doing so well in the Gorge. And who knew that Western pond turtles can live to be 50 or 60 years old? The webinars are available on the Friends YouTube channel, which also has Oregon Field Guide episodes, waterfall and wildflower videos, Kim Stafford's Gorge haiku, videos of the Eagle Creek fire, and many other treasures. Klamath-Siskiyou Wildlands Center (kswild.org) has a 3-part Fire and Climate Summit on Reducing Fire Hazards in the Wildland Urban Interface, Aboriginal Fire Stewardship in the Klamath Siskiyou, and Climate Smart Conservation. Columbia Riverkeeper (columbiariverkeeper.org) features two webinars: Removing Lower Snake River Dams to Protect Salmon and Orcas and the High Risks at Hanford. Oregon Wild (oregonwild.org) has a number of webcasts, including Volcanoes of the Cascades (a fantastic and beautiful one-hour geology lesson),
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The Mysterious World of the Marbled Murrelet, Staying Connected to Nature, Northwest Forests and Carbon: Science and Solutions, The Return of the Condor, The Lost Sea Otters of Oregon, Hiking the Wonders of Mt. Hood, and Knowing Oregon's Bees. These are all available under the Oregon Wild Wildblog, and they are continuing to add more webinars. The Oregon Natural Desert Association (onda.org) has completed their High Desert Academy, their digital event series that played from March through May, but they are available on their website. Titles include: Desert Hiking Tips and Trips; Steens Mountain: Wilderness Haven; MultiSport Adventures on the Oregon Desert Trail; Hart, Sheldon, and the Land Between; The Wild Owyhee; Boots, Bikes and Boats in Eastern Oregon; How to Protect Desert Rivers; How to Build a Beaver Dam; and How to Use your Voice for Public Lands. Currently, ONDA is featuring discussions about their conservation vision, environmental policy, and the value of wild desert rivers. They are also slowly adding stewardship projects to their schedule, including fence building, trail work, and building beaver dam analogs. We hope you have a chance to
enjoy some of these webinars from our conservation partners. You can also learn about opportunities for action, such as the Cascade Forest Conservancy's No Mine on St. Helens campaign, Oregon Wild's campaign for endangered species status for the Marbled Murrelet, plans to improve the Oregon Forest Practices Act, and the latest 350PDX actions. You can also consult our partner's calendars for upcoming stewardship projects. Our partners' websites are also a good place to look for other postlockdown adventures. For example, if you are planning a hiking, climbing, biking, camping, or backpacking trip to the Oregon high desert, start with ONDA. For hikes in the Gorge see Friends of the Gorge, readysetgorge.com for Public Lands Recreation site status, or Oregon Hikers at oregonhikers.org. Stay safe, be well, and enjoy our beautiful Pacific Northwest!
This month the Mazama Conservation Committee would like to introduce you to 350PDX, a local non-profit combating climate change, with the following article by 350PDX volunteer, Kyla Yeoman.
FIGHT FOR CLIMATE JUSTICE by Kyla Yeoman
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50PDX* is a diverse, people-powered movement with an ambitious vision to address the causes of climate disruption, coupled with the experience needed to get there.
We’re creating a world where fossil fuels are kept in the ground, our society is 100% powered by renewable and community-owned energy, we’re surrounded by vibrant, carbon-rich forests, people have quality family-wage jobs, and our communities are resilient. Because we recognize that the causes of climate disruption are the same root causes as other environmental, social, economic, and racial injustices, we follow the strong leadership of those impacted first and worst. We put pressure on politicians, industries, and businesses to change the extractive and exploitative systems people live in. We want the easiest choice for everyone to be the sustainable one. That’s why we’re focused on systemic change rather than individual behaviors. We know this is ambitious, but we actually do have the power to make it happen. They have the money, we have the people. 350PDX’s mission is to inspire you to act, to give you the skills and knowledge you need, and to give you the opportunity to engage in real, meaningful, effective action that will fully address the climate crisis, and bring about a just and equitable future for all. We also focus on mobilizing believers rather than deniers. With 72 percent of Oregonians supportive of climate action, we have more than enough people if we all show up. That’s where you come in. We’ve saved a seat for you, and can’t wait to help you find your climate action “home.” We have strategic teams focused on fossil fuel resistance, transportation, forest defense, and the Green New Deal. We have neighborhood teams, family-friendly teams, and affinity group teams. We even have an arts team that makes activism creative and joyful! You may see us in the streets during big climate marches, but behind the scenes we are people strategizing, researching, writing, collaborating, and creating. We’re building a movement and we'd love for you to join us. *350PDX is a local group affiliated with 350.org. The number 350 comes from the scientific safe upper limit of how many parts per million of carbon dioxide should be in the atmosphere. Before the industrial revolution, it was roughly 270. We are currently at around 415, meaning we are overstepping this important planetary boundary and need to stop emitting greenhouse gases and bring that number back down to 350 or below as fast as possible.
WHAT CAN A MAZAMA DO?
Go to the 350PDX website to find a climate change action that fits your concerns, and join in! Learn more at 350pdx.org/getinvolved/
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Getting to Know
CHRISTINE L. MACKERT, MD Editor's note: This article was originally published in the April/May 2020 Mazama Bulletin, but was missing the second page. The article is reprinted here in its entirety. We apologize for the error.
by Dick Pugh and Joyce Follingstad
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ho summited the Matterhorn in 1977, chased off a bear with her ice axe, collected nearly all of the Mazama awards, relocated a student’s dislocated shoulder during a Basic School training on Mt. Hood, and who lead the Mazamas as president through five terms? Meet Christine Mackert, MD! Chris Mackert was born in Rexberg, Idaho, and was raised on a ranch in nearby St. Anthony, Idaho along with an older brother and sister. If asked, Chris would claim she was from Squirrel, Idaho—a long-disappeared ghost town in the area. After high school, she attended the University of Idaho, then went to Washington University in St. Louis, Missouri for her pre-med education. Finally, Chris arrived in Portland and attended The University of Oregon Medical School (now OHSU) for her internship and residency to become an anesthesiologist. Having grown up in the shadow of the Tetons, Chris was inspired to climb the Grand Teton. Now in Portland, she added Mt. Hood to that wish list. To prepare for these challenges Chris enrolled in The Mazamas Basic Climbing School in 1970. Her instructor was Jack Grauer, with whom she became lifelong friends. Intermediate Climbing School followed, and as she grew in proficiency she was selected to become a Mazama climb leader in 1974. With her medical and mountaineering skills, Chris was an asset on every climb, frequently helping injured climbers. Over the years, Chris summited mountains 112 times with the Mazamas—leading 15 of the climbs and assisting with 42 others. Chris has climbed in the United Sates, Mexico, Africa, and Europe! In 1974, she received the Guardian Peaks Award; in 1975 the Seven Oregon Peaks Award; and in 1976 the 16 Peaks and the 5-Point Leadership awards. In 1977 she was given the 10-Point Leadership Award; and in 1979 the 15-Point Leadership Award. Then,
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in 1982 Chris was bestowed the Parker Cup Award for her outstanding service to the Mazamas. See a progression here? Charles H. Sholes, Mazamas’ second president, served the Mazamas for five terms. Over the years, several people served for three terms, and a few more served for two. Only Charles Sholes had been president for five terms until Chris served her fifth term as president. In 2008, Chris became an Honorary Member of the Mazamas for her remarkable service to mountaineering, joining such luminaries as John Muir and Fred Beckey. 1980 was the first year Chris served as Mazama president. Her goal was to attain financial stability for the Mazamas because during the previous five years it had run a deficit. Her second goal was to complete capital improvements at the Mazama Lodge in Government Camp. The third was to increase volunteerism by Mazama members. Chris worked tirelessly to achieve these goals. Her second term as president began in 1989. She worked
with the Executive Council to streamline administration of the club while making operations more professional. A review of the bylaws was initiated, office equipment updated, and a job description written for the office manager position. By her third term in 1998, the Mazamas had outgrown its clubroom space on NW 19th Avenue. A needs assessment determined that a larger office, library, auditorium, and additional parking were needed. Options included renewing the lease for the NW 19th Avenue space through 2005 and investing a substantial amount of money for remodeling, or to purchase a more suitable building. The Mazamas Foundation was created in 1999. A new foundation board was organized, investments managed, and a search for a new building began. That year also brought a quagmire of new government regulations and risk management issues. Chris led the Mazamas in reviewing and revising policies and procedures, and created an incident management program.
Highlights from Chris’s leadership in 2000 included the Mazamas partnering with the United States Forest Service. Members were encouraged to act as voluntary wilderness stewards in the Mt. Hood, Salmon-Huckleberry, and Hatfield Wilderness areas. In the face of an aging membership, the Mazamas initiated five- and ten-year long-range plans that sought to attract younger members. The Mazamas also joined the electronic age and developed a website. Chris has a great sense of humor. When women began getting more than just ear piercings, Chris showed up with a nose stud or a nose ring, and watched the shocked or amazed looks from the others. Later she revealed that the stud was really held on by a magnet and the ring by a small clip! Once on an early climb of pre-eruption Mount St. Helens, in camp Chris asked climb leader Jack Grauer if there were bears in the area. He answered, “No bears.” So Chris left her cooler on the picnic table that night. When a bear tore the cooler apart during the night, Chris chased it off with her ice axe. She complained to Jack that a bear had destroyed her styrofoam chest, to which Jack replied that he didn’t know she had a styrofoam chest! This incident brought laughter to all. On the 1972 Teton Outing, Chris realized that certain members were coming down with a sickness that she diagnosed as Marmot Fever. The remedy she prescribed was to gather the ailing climbers at Teton Village each afternoon to have cold beers! While leading a climb of Mt. Hood, Chris ran into Keith Mischke, who was leading a
team of young climbers. One of the young boys complained that his hands were cold. When Chris said that she could amputate the fingers, his eyes grew huge. When Keith told the boy it would be okay because she was a doctor, the boy’s hands quickly warmed up! Chris hasn't only served the Mazamas as president or in the ountains. Because of her easy manner, knowledge of the club, excellent presentation skills, and inability to say no, Chris served as the emcee of the Annual Banquet at least five times! The year 1994 marked the 100th 100th anniversary of the Mazamas. Historian Vera Dafoe informed Chris that there had been many variations of the Mazama insignia patch, and that there were hundreds of old emblems abandoned in a box. Chris took it upon herself to create a quilt using the patches in order to celebrate the anniversary. The quilt now hangs in the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Mountaineering is a beautiful, delightful, and satisfying sport. But it is also risky. Chris has faced the difficulty of the losing friends to climbing accidents. Ray Sheldon and others recall how Chris was a strong and caring helper when dealing with the loss of Terry Becker during a Swiss Outing. Another dark hour
came when Dick Sawyer fell to his death on Mt. Shuksan. Chris rappelled down to him, jumared back up to the group, and took over the climb as leader. When five Mazamas lost their lives on the Cooper Spur route on Mt. Hood, Chris handled the debriefing, public relations, and incident management of this devastating event. Regardless of these misfortunes, Chris continues to remain a strong advocate for the sport. Her kindness, humor, and friendship make her a pleasure to be around. The Mazamas owe Dr. Christine L. Mackert a huge debt for her leadership and dedication to the Mazamas.
JUNE/JULY 2020 17
THE OUTDOORS ARE FOR
EVERYONE by Ali Gray
T
he outdoors are for everyone. This is a phrase that we in the outdoor community hear regularly. Nature is often thought of as the great equalizer, that public lands are there for all to enjoy, and that spending time outdoors can let us forget all our “real world” problems, at least temporarily.
Today, a global pandemic is running like wildfire across the country and around the world, hitting Black and communities of color especially hard. Protests, police brutality, and Black Lives Matter are dominating the news. These inequalities and injustices bring focus to the phrase “the outdoors are for everyone,” which ignores the fact that hard work must still be done to truly make the outdoors for everyone. We must redefine "everyone.” If I ask you to think of a climber, a skier, a runner, or a cyclist, who do you picture? Most likely the answer is a young, white man, probably stereotypically attractive. Maybe some of you pictured a white woman or a middle-aged white man. The simple fact that you probably didn’t imagine a person of color, an elderly person, or someone who is plus-sized goes a long way in showing why the social construct of who can be an outdoor recreationalist needs to change. Even if we agree that the outdoors are truly for everyone, we need to acknowledge that not everyone experiences the outdoors in the same way, that many experience hatred or outright violence when trying to enjoy these spaces. As a white person, I need to acknowledge the privileges that have helped me in my outdoor pursuits, even if I wasn’t aware of them. While I may take risks in the mountains, I don’t bear the additional psychological damage of fearing for my safety every single day of my life. I’ve lived my life believing that I can dream of anything and try to achieve it, without the bounds of social constructs and systems of institutionalized oppression to hold me back. My middle-class upbringing introduced me to the outdoors at a young age, and I continue to have the time and financial means to spend my free time (also a privilege) in nature. The more we as individuals can open our minds to what “everyone” actually means, and put our time, our money, and our votes towards amplifying BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) and LGBTQIA+ voices, the more the outdoors will actually be able to benefit everyone in the multitude of ways we know it can. The following is a list of books and organizations that deserve our attention. Please join me in reading, following, learning, and possibly donating to do our part in redefining everyone.
BOOKS A BEAUTIFUL WORK IN PROGRESS, BY MIRNA VALERIO In this prejudice-busting, body-positive memoir told with raw honesty, an adventurous spirit, and a sharp sense of humor, Valerio takes readers along on her journey from first-time racer to ultramarathoner and proves that anyone can become a successful athlete.
BLACK NATURE: FOUR CENTURIES OF AFRICAN AMERICAN NATURE POETRY, BY CAMILLE T. DUNGY (EDITOR) Black Nature is the first anthology to focus on nature writing by African American poets, a genre that until now has not commonly been counted as one in which African American poets have participated.
THE HOME PLACE: MEMOIRS OF A COLORED MAN’S LOVE AFFAIR WITH NATURE, BY J. DREW LANHAM By turns angry, funny, elegiac, and heartbreaking, The Home Place is a remarkable meditation on nature and belonging, at once a deeply moving memoir and riveting exploration of the contradictions of Black identity in the rural South—and in America today. 18 MAZAMAS
BLACK FACES, WHITE SPACES: REIMAGINING THE RELATIONSHIP OF AFRICAN AMERICANS TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS, BY CAROLYN FINNEY In this thought-provoking study, Carolyn Finney looks beyond the discourse of the environmental justice movement to examine how the natural environment has been understood, commodified, and represented by both white and Black Americans. Available in the Mazama Library
THE ADVENTURE GAP: CHANGING THE FACE OF THE OUTDOORS, BY JAMES EDWARD MILLS A chronicle of the first all-African American summit attempt on Denali, the highest point in North America, The Adventure Gap is part adventure story, part history, and part argument for the importance of inspiring future generations to value nature. Available in the Mazama Library
SMITH BLUE, BY CAMILLE T. DUNGY In Smith Blue, Camille T. Dungy offers a survival guide for the modern heart as she takes on twenty-first-century questions of love, loss, and nature. From a myriad of lenses, these poems examine the human capacity for perseverance.
THE COLORS OF NATURE: CULTURE, IDENTITY, AND THE NATURAL WORLD, BY ALISON HAWTHORNE DEMING, LAURET SAVOY (EDITOR) From African American to Asian American, Indigenous to immigrant, “multiracial” to “mixedblood,” the stories in The Colors of Nature provide an antidote to the despair so often accompanying the intersection of cultural diversity and ecological awareness.
TRACE: MEMORY, HISTORY, RACE, AND THE AMERICAN LANDSCAPE, BY LAURET SAVOY In this provocative and powerful mosaic of personal journeys and historical inquiry across a continent and time, Savoy explores how the country’s still unfolding history, and ideas of “race,” have marked her and the land.
continued on next page
Outdoors for Everyone, continued from previous page
ORGANIZATIONS ADVENTURES WITHOUT LIMITS
AWLOUTDOORS.ORG
Adventures Without Limits, based in Forest Grove, provides access to outdoor adventure to all people, regardless of their ability level, socio-economic status, gender, ethnicity or age.
BETTIES360, BETTIES360.ORG Betties360 provides under-served girls in the Portland community access to outdoor activities and life-skills training for free. Their mission is to inspire confidence, well-being, and community in girls through action sports, outdoor adventure, and life-skill education.
BROOKLYN BOULDERS FOUNDATION, BKBF.ORG Brooklyn Boulders Foundation envisions a world where all youth and adults, regardless of their ability, feel empowered to climb. They seek to eliminate real or perceived barriers to, and create more opportunities within, the rock climbing community.
BROTHERS OF CLIMBING
FACEBOOK.COM/OFFICIAL.BOCCREW
Brothers of Climbing seeks to reach, represent, and inspire underrepresented groups within the climbing community.
BIG CITY MOUNTAINEERS
BIGCITYMOUNTAINEERS.ORG
Big City Mountaineers instills critical life skills in under-resourced youth through transformative wilderness mentoring experiences.
THE BROWN ASCENDERS
THEBROWNASCENDERS.ORG
The Brown Ascenders aims to increase the accessibility of outdoor spaces, outdoor related education, and recreation for BIPOC adults and youths, while cultivating outlets for community, representation, and growth.
BLACK GIRLS TREKKIN'
BLACKGIRLSTREKKIN.COM
Black Girls Trekkin’ focuses on inspiring and empowering Black women to spend time outdoors, appreciate nature, and protect it. They hope to build a community that will show the world that women of color are a strong and present force in the outdoors.
BLACK OUTSIDE, BLACKOUTSIDE.ORG Black Outside, Inc. has one simple mission: reconnect Black/African-American youth to the outdoors through culturally-relevant outdoor experiences.
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BROWN GIRLS CLIMB
BROWNGIRLSCLIMB.COM
Brown Girls Climb aims to promote and increase the visibility of diversity in climbing by encouraging leadership opportunities for self-identified women climbers of color and by creating inclusive opportunities to climb and explore for underrepresented communities.
OUTDOOR AFRO
OUTDOORAFRO.COM
CENTER FOR DIVERSITY & THE ENVIRONMENT,
CDEINSPIRES.ORG The Center for Diversity and the Environment harnesses the power of racial & ethnic diversity to transform the U.S. environmental movement by developing leaders, catalyzing change within institutions, and building alliances.
COLOR OUTSIDE, COLOROUTSIDE.ORG Color Outside helps women of color harness the power of the outdoors to create the joy-filled, balanced lives they crave through coaching, workshops, and one-of-a-kind retreats.
Outdoor Afro is one of the nation's leading, cutting edge networks that celebrates and inspires Black connections and leadership in nature.
PDX CLIMBERS OF COLOR
FACEBOOK.COM/PDXCLIMBERSOFCOLOR
Non-profit organization supporting POC climbers in PDX and the PNW, with the goal of cultivating access to climbing and the outdoors.
GIRLTREK,
GIRLTREK.ORG In the footsteps of a civil rights legacy, GirlTrek is a national health movement that activates thousands of Black women to be change makers in their lives and communities—through walking.
MELANIN BASE CAMP
MELANINBASECAMP.COM
Melanin Base Camp's purpose is to inspire, with weekly content from Black, Brown, Asian, Indigenous, and Queer People of Color who love the outdoors.
NATIONAL BROTHERHOOD OF SKIERS, NBS.ORG The National Brotherhood of Skiers aims to identify, develop, and support athletes of color who will win Olympic and international winter sports competitions representing the USA.
PGM ONE, PGMONE.ORG PGM ONE (People of the Global Majority in the Outdoors, Nature, and Environment) envisions a world that centers, values, uplifts, and empowers those who are most impacted by environmental harm and climate change—and in particular Black, Indigenous, and people of color/of the global majority—to lead the way toward environmental justice and collective liberation.
SENDING IN COLOR
SENDINGINCOLOR.COM
Sending in Color is a climbing organization that aims to foster a diverse and inclusive community by breaking down barriers of accessibility whether cultural and/or economic to connect and introduce climbers of color to each other and the sport.
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Outdoors for Everyone, continued from previous page
SOULTRAK, SOULTRAK.COM SoulTrak Outdoors is a nonprofit organization that connects communities of color to outdoor spaces while also building a coalition of diverse outdoor leaders.
URBAN NATURE PARTNERS PDX
COVID POLICIES
As of July 1, 2020 ith health and safety of our members and community in mind, the Mazamas will be operating with a set of policies & practices to reduce risk of COVID-19 transmission. We recognize and acknowledge these policies and practices will not eliminate risk, but rather allow us to engage in activity with reduced risk. We will ask each of our members and participants to make their own choices regarding acceptable risk.
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Due to the fluid nature of the COVID-19 pandemic, these policies are subject to change. It is the responsibility of anyone participating in an event to be aware of the current policies.
URBAN-NATURE-PARTNERS.ORG
Urban Nature Partners PDX empowers youth from historically marginalized Portland communities through long term one-on-one mentoring relationships and access to meaningful outdoor experiences.
The Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) is closed until further notice.
WILD DIVERSITY,
WILDDIVERSITY.COM Wild Diversity helps to create a personal connection to the outdoors for Black, Indigenous, all People of Color (BIPOC) & the LGBTQ+ communities, through outdoor adventures and education.
There are numerous other books, articles, organizations, social media accounts, and inspiring individuals showcasing Black, Indigenous, Latinx, POC, LGBTQIA+, women, and other historically marginalized communities in the outdoors can be found online.
Oregon's State Guideline are very strict in regards to our kids’ summer program. To operate summer camp within guidelines mandated by the state, the MMC will not be open to anyone other than Mazama staff, Mazama Wild staff, and Mazama Wild participants. Gear for activities must be requested and will be available for curbside pick-up.
MAZAMAS WIDE POLICIES (THESE POLICIES APPLY TO ALL MAZAMAS ACTIVITIES) ▶ All Mazamas programs and activities must have up-to-date knowledge of state, county, city and land manager regulations. The Mazamas will adhere to the most conservative guidelines that are in effect for a particular activity. ▶ All participants must sign a COVID-19 acknowledgement of risk in addition to the regular Mazamas risk waiver. ▶ All staff, participants, and volunteer leaders are required to report any COVID-19 symptoms. All individuals will monitor for symptoms, including taking temperature, 24 hours prior to the start of their program. Any symptomatic or feverish participants will be required to cancel themselves from the trip. Full refunds will be provided for cancellations due to COVID-19 symptoms. ▶ All participants and volunteer leadership will maintain a minimum of 6 feet in between each other when on a Mazama program.
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▶ Mazamas gatherings will be restricted to 25 people or less. Specific activities may have a lower number of participants. These figures will change as local and national guidance changes.
▶ Carpooling is highly discouraged by anyone who is not currently sharing a household.
▶ Carpooling is highly discouraged for all Mazamas programs. Avoid stopping for gas, food, snacks, and other supplies in communities outside of your own. Do not stop in gateway communities.
▶ Sharing food, cooking equipment, utensils, containers, or drinking receptacles is prohibited.
▶ All participants over the age of 10 are required to bring a face covering and hand sanitizer on all activities and practice high hygiene standards. ▶ There will be no shared food or drink at any Mazama activities or events. ▶ Any participant exhibiting COVID-19 symptoms within two weeks after a Mazama program or being at the Mazama Mountaineering Center or Mazama Lodge will report to the Mazamas. You will be sent an online form to complete 7 days and 14 days post-activity to report any symptoms. ▶ In these cases, the Mazamas will inform all participants on that program, that they may have come in contact with an individual who has tested positive for COVID-19. The name of the symptomatic person will not be shared.
▶ Sharing tents or personal gear is prohibited with nonhousehold members.
▶ All individuals must bring and carry their own alcohol-based hand sanitizer. ▶ Cloth face coverings are required for outdoor activities. ▶ Outdoor activities must be structured to maintain 6 feet whenever possible (brief periods closer than 6 feet are acceptable). ▶ All group gear must be quarantined for a minimum of 48 hours between use.
CLIMBING ▶ Climbs are limited to a maximum group size of 10. ▶ Masks will be worn whenever climbers are within 6’ of each other. ▶ Climbers will maintain at least 6 foot distance from each other whenever possible and come closer only when necessary.
MMC POLICIES
▶ Contact at belays and corrals will be minimized.
The MMC will remain closed for normal operations until further notice. Once the MMC is reopened, the following policies will be in effect:
▶ All trips will be on familiar and comfortable terrain to the leader.
▶ Everyone entering the MMC will be required to sign-in. ▶ Everyone entering the MMC will be required to wash their hands. ▶ No one with a temperature about 100.3 will be allowed into the building. ▶ Cloth face covering will be required for everyone over the age of 10.
MAZAMA OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES POLICIES (APPLIES TO ALL OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES. INCLUDING HIKE, CLIMB, RAMBLES, ETC.) ▶ All outdoor activities (climb, hike, run, etc.) are limited to a maximum group size of 25. ▶ Individuals may participate in a maximum of 1 activity per 7-day period, or 2 with the same roster. The end date of the first activity is day 1 and the start day of the next activity counts as day 7. For example, you can have a climb that ends on August 1 and participate in a hike that starts on August 7. ▶ Groups will not have access to the MMC to use bathrooms or get gear. The parking lot will not be open.
▶ All personal and group climbing gear must be quarantined for 48 hours before use. ▶ Individual gear will not be shared whenever possible and climbers will minimize touching other climbers individual gear.
HIKING/RAMBLES ▶ Hikes are limited to a maximum group size of 10. ▶ Masks will be worn whenever hikers are within 6 feet of each other. ▶ Hikers will maintain at least 6 foot distance from each other whenever possible and come closer only when necessary. ▶ Hikers will pass other groups/hikers with a minimum of 6 foot distance. If closer, hikers will wear their mask. ▶ All trips will be on familiar and comfortable terrain to the leader. ▶ All personal and group climbing gear must be quarantined for 48 hours before use. ▶ Individual gear will not be shared.
JUNE/JULY 2020 23
Mazamas Foundation Dissolution FAQ Hello members,
O
ver the last few years, the question of why the Mazamas have a foundation has been asked by some Mazama members, staff, council members, and even members of the Mazamas Foundation. The "Mazamas Executive Council (EC) + Foundation Workgroup" was organized and has been meeting to explore the future necessity of the Mazamas Foundation. The workgroup is balanced with members of both the Executive Council and the Foundation's Board. As this may appear to be controversial to some of the membership, it was felt that our communication plan should include an FAQ intended to answer anticipated common questions. Additionally, we will arrange an online Virtual Town Hall at 7 p.m. on July 28 to address any specific questions you may have. You may also email questions or concerns to foundation_faq@ mazamas.org.
Q1: What triggered this consideration of dissolving the Foundation? A1: Due to the administrative complexity of coordinating assets between the Mazamas and the Mazamas Foundation, and the unnecessary duplication of costs relating to bookkeeping, auditing, insurance, staff and volunteer resources, we felt we should investigate the Foundation's costs and benefits to the organization. Q2: Why do we have a Mazamas Foundation? A2: In 1997, the Mazamas Foundation was formed with the purpose of providing a separate level of investment oversight, and also to provide another layer of liability protection for the organization in case of a lawsuit following an unfortunate accident during one of our sponsored activities. The Foundation was established to benefit the organization and to support the Mazamas strategic plan. Q3: Is this decision in any way related to the COVID-19 pandemic? A3: No. This workgroup was formed prior to the COVID-19 pandemic and has clarified for us the importance of integrating our finances, and financial decision-making, under a single efficient organization. Refer to Q9/A9 for additional information.
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Q4: What are the Mazamas Foundation assets and where will they go? A4: The assets currently include real estate (the Mazama Mountaineering Center), along with financial investments such as stocks, bonds, and cash of approximately $1.1 million. The assets were received in the form of donations and grants, and are noted as permanently restricted, temporarily restricted or unrestricted funds, per IRS guidelines. Funds that are restricted (with specific uses) will remain restricted as originally intended. All assets would be transferred to the Mazamas in their entirety prior to the dissolution of the Foundation. Q5: Who and how will these assets be managed by the Mazamas? A5: The existing EC Finance Committee will be enlarged, with the addition of some current members of the Foundation, the Mazama Executive Director, and possibly some non-member financial advisors. The mission of this enhanced Finance Committee would be "to provide investment oversight of the organization’s assets ensuring our long-term financial stability by prudently and conservatively managing and investing the assets in an efficient and direct way to support the short-term needs (operational activities) and long-term goals of the Mazamas." This committee will report to the EC, which will maintain fiduciary responsibility of the organization.
Q6: What about losing that extra layer of protection against liability? A6: We have hired experienced outside legal counsel concerning the pros and cons of dissolving the Foundation, in terms of the risk of a lawsuit to the organization. We have also engaged an insurance broker with specific and long-term experience with outdoor recreation nonprofits. In summary, their conclusion was that the added layer of protection afforded to the Mazamas by having a separate foundation was negligible. The organization's current general liability coverage is $1 million and its umbrella insurance coverage limit is $1 million. With the transition of the Foundation's assets into the Mazamas, the Mazamas would increase the umbrella coverage to $4 million. The new combined limit would be $5 million. Q7: Are there tax considerations due to this transfer of assets? A7: No. We have to complete the forms with the IRS and the Oregon Secretary of State, but as a non-profit transfer to a nonprofit, no tax implications are anticipated. Q8: Does the Foundation only grant money to the Mazamas, or have grants been made to outside organizations? A8: The Mazamas Foundation followed its mission statement to support the work of the Mazamas only. The grants provided by the Mazamas consisted of fund previously transferred from the Foundation to the Mazamas. Repeat recipients of grants from the Mazamas will not see a change.
MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP Q9: The Mazamas Foundation assets are significantly less than they were in the past. How can we rebuild our funds without the foundation structure? A9: Unfortunately, at this time, the Foundation’s assets are low. Over the last five years, the EC, with the approval of the Foundation funded numerous initiatives outlined in the strategic plan that were undertaken to expand the scope and reach of our programs and make significant renovations to Mazama Lodge. Estate gifts over this same period were insufficient to cover these outlays. The synergy of combining resources and reducing overhead costs by combining our assets is a first step. Other steps include capital campaigns, equity and inclusion efforts, applying for larger grants, more publicly available programs, increasing membership, optimizing staff efficiency and improving our community visibility which directly relates to access to grants and larger donations. Q10: I’m not 100% comfortable with this plan and have some specific questions. Where can I get answers? A10: We will have a virtual town hall hosted by the Foundation and moderated by Jerry Eline on July 28 at 7 p.m., in order to discuss and respond to questions. Additionally, there will be a link on the Mazamas website and Facebook page to pose your questions. Answers will be provided and then a summary of additional Q/A’s will be placed on the Mazama website and printed in the following Bulletin.
April Membership Report
May Membership Report
NEW MEMBERS: 4
NEW MEMBERS: 6
Marguerite Hills—Mt. Shasta David Hills—Mt. Shasta Kaia Hunter—Mount St Helens Gregg Marschner—Mt. Kilimanjaro (Tanzania)
Mary Bates—Mount St. Helens Michael Cockrem—Mt. Shasta Fred Farner—Mt. Hood Amy Hell—Mount St. Helens Claire Iball—Mount St. Helens Melanie Lamb—Mt. Adams
REINSTATEMENTS: 1
Cristina Mihaescu (2016)
DECEASED: 0 MEMBERSHIP ON MARCH 31: 3,085 (2020); 3,412 (2019)
REINSTATEMENTS: 1
Jeff Thomas (1985)
DECEASED: 0 Nathalie Healey (1985)* not a current member
MEMBERSHIP ON APRIL 30: 3,093 (2020); 3,459 (2019)
JOIN THE MAZAMAS Are you ready to become a Mazama member? If you have summitted a glaciated peak at any time in your life you are ready! Go to mazamas.org/join and sign up.
RENEW TODAY! Has your Mazama membership lapsed? Renewal is quick and easy! Simply log in to our website at mazamas.org, go to your dashboard, and click on Renew Your Membership. Follow the prompts. That's all there is to it! Your membership will be renewed. Membership expiration date is October 1.
JUNE/JULY 2020 25
MAZAMA WILD SUMMER CAMP UPDATE:
Navigating COVID-19 and Keeping Kids Engaged With the Outdoors by Claire Nelson, Culture and Resource Manager
E
ach summer, the Mazamas welcomes campers ages 4–10 for week-long camp sessions, where they experience urban and wild environments through hands-on science experiments, art, and play at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), Laurelhurst Park, and the Mazama Lodge at Mt. Hood. As Portland and the rest of the world grapples with how to protect one another, provide essential services, and maintain our connections to each other, Mazama Wild has made some changes this summer.
This spring, we worked with the Governor's Office and the Oregon summer camp community to understand how or if we could run camp. We decided to continue operations, though modified, to meet the recommendations of the state. As a small, community-minded camp, we are set up to mitigate the risks of COVID-19 exposure and provide a resource for families who need childcare, and for kids who benefit from a positive outdoor learning experience. This summer will bring more field trips on foot, creative park play, and gathering (distantly) with friends at the MMC. While we get creative on helping kids practice physical distancing—giant bug wings for everyone!—we will also be making some changes to our camp structure and policies: ▶ June camps will run at 50 percent capacity, and all
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climbing and field trips are cancelled. ▶ Overnight excursions during Day Camp and all Base Camp overnight programming is cancelled. ▶ We will ask all campers and staff to stay away from camp, and go home immediately, if they show any COVID-19 symptoms or have had any recent known COVID-19 exposure. ▶ We will be hand-washing, hand-sanitizing, and sanitizing surfaces throughout the day at camp. ▶ We will perform temperature checks for staff, campers, and families at the beginning of every day. Fortunately, we have an amazing location where we can keep counselor groups separate and contained, and still have space to play and learn!
Youth programming is an important pillar of the mission of the Mazamas of everyone outside loving and protecting the mountains. We’re committed to providing quality outdoor experiences for young adventurers this summer while keeping them as safe as possible. Experiences like these build a foundation of appreciation that can translate into a lifelong love for the outdoors and an inspiration to protect our wilderness for years to come. We recognize camp isn’t for every young person or family, and that the COVID-19 guidelines have made it difficult for many to participate. We’ve also compiled a list of hands-on outdoor activities you can do with your young adventurer from your own home or neighborhood. Here are some of our favorites from camp that you can do at home. Check out Mazama Wild At Home (mazamas.org/
mazamawildathome) for more great ideas from organizations around the country! ▶ Scavenger Hunt: Create a list of natural and human made objects your child might find at your house, backyard, neighborhood, or park. Go on an exploratory adventure to find as many as you can! ▶ Nature Journals: Nature Journals are an integral part of camp. Use construction paper, or an old notebook and let your camper personalize it with markers, crayons, or any other material. Staple the edges together and you have a journal! Let your young person draw, write poems, or take notes on the things they see in the world around them. Staple a brown paper bag into the journal as well as a collection envelope as they explore the backyard or neighborhood.
▶ Nature Art Construction: Let your kids create art out of what they find outside! Only rules are 1) be creative, 2) take down projects and restore before leaving the area (Leave No Trace), if not at your own home, 3) no plants or animals should be harmed in the process. Registration is currently full for Mazama Wild Day Camp 2020. However there is regular movement from the wait list, so if you are interested in being added to the wait list or simply learning more about camp, go to mazamawild.org. If you have any questions about Mazama Wild Camps programming, please contact Molly Mosenthal, Camp Manager, at mazamawild@mazamas. org.
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Shasta SURPRISE by Ron Gayer
I
imagine, like most other endeavors in life, the reasons people climb probably vary about as much as people themselves, and I imagine also that each climber has not one but a multitude of reasons for this particular undertaking. But surely, along with the pure beauty of mountains and the rustic environments that surround them, as reasons for climbing go, adventure has to be pretty high on most folks' lists. And beyond adventure, there’s danger. Even though we all put our lives in danger every time we access a freeway, that kind of danger, though real, is packaged quite differently from purposely putting oneself on a precarious slope or questionable traverse. I believe most people need a degree of danger in their lives. I think some individuals can get theirs in ersatz forms provided by movies and roller coasters, others of us have to experience the real thing – like food seasonings, to one’s own taste. We are, after all, the relatively recent product of eons of fight or flight, hunt and be hunted. I think we are all to a greater or lesser degree programmed to accept danger as a normal part of life. When we don’t get our “recommended” daily or yearly requirement of danger we seek it out. Again, each in his or her own way. Who knows, golf may suffice for many. Contact sports certainly fill the bill for younger people. That being said, and having climbed a bunch of Northwest peaks, I know that I look forward to the adventure and potential danger of the climb. Conversely, and still being rather new at the sport, I am also quite happy to be a member of a climbing organization, the Mazamas, where safety is of paramount importance. This was never more true than when my climb group, having successfully summited Mt. Shasta via the Hotlum-Bolam Glacier route, roped-up, and began high-tailing it down the mountain in the early stages of a snowstorm. Here I took my first real heart-stopping fall on a mountain. One moment we were skirting the top of a rather large patch of blue ice, the next moment, inadvertently stepping on the ice and having both legs go immediately out from under me, I had just enough time to position my ice ax for a self arrest and yell, “Fa…” when my slide came to an abrupt halt, no more than twenty-five feet from where I started. Good job, rope mates! I was on my back and trussed up like one of those rodeo calves. How did that happen in a second or two? Making sure only one of my climbing partners gave me slack at a time, I finally got myself untangled and, front-pointing with my crampons, pulling with my ice ax, rejoined my group, all of them waiting patiently as the snow increased and visibility decreased. I would have liked to have spent a minute or two dwelling on what was, hopefully, a oncein-a-lifetime experience—but the weather was now dictating our pace. No time for reflections.
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What had been, just 24 hours earlier, beautiful “shorts and T-shirts” weather was now an early summer blizzard. I know mountains are like that, but knowing it and finding yourself right in the middle of this kind of situation are quite different matters. Our team zigged and zagged our way down, avoiding obvious hazards but not really knowing what was under the mounting layer of fresh snow nor the route back to our camp. There were numerous stops so that those with opinions as to where the camp might be could voice them. The team didn’t quite degenerate to a democracy, however; our leader’s opinion still carried the most weight. But thankfully one of our team had a GPS instrument and after a moderate amount of cussing, discussing, backtracking, and head-scratching we found ourselves on a lofty moraine just as the clouds temporarily lifted and our camp was revealed across a broad width of glacier. We all pretty much made our own ways across the snow. I was walking over essentially the same route some of my teammates took, looking forward to getting off my feet for a few minutes, when my left leg plunged into a hole, all the way to my crotch. And, since I still had my crampons on, my right foot stayed in place, my knee now at eye level. Using both hands (and I find swearing a lot helps in these situations) I was, after a few minutes and some considerable effort, able to extricate my right leg. Now it stuck out straight in front of me, at a nifty right angle to the jammed leg. After my first failed attempt to lift myself out of this post hole by the strength of my arms I regrouped, pushed up again, and began to rock both my upper body and the leg entrapped in the hole, all the while being observed by a couple of my teammates who must have been thinking “I’m not going over there. Look what happened to Ron when he did.” Bit by bit I pulled myself into a sitting position and, again, used my hands to pull my leg the rest of the way out. I laid back for a moment, thinking “How many other dumb things will happen to me today?” Fortunately, I don’t have space to go into that. The good news is I was a little sore but essentially uninjured. I half hobbled the rest of the way to my tent only to be called back to attend an impromptu team meeting, in the fading light, in the falling snow. Our leader, Rich, made an astute observation: we had no way of predicting how much snow would ultimately come
down on us if we stayed the night at this camp. We knew that while the well worn trail up to this patch of mountain was now covered in an just inch or two of fresh snow, by morning we could be in a winter wonderland with all landmarks totally obscured. The vote was unanimous, even though we had been on the move for fourteen hours we were going to break camp, hike out and wake up some motel keeps in Shasta City. After about thirty minutes most of the team was ready. After another thirty minutes of most of us grumbling, shivering, and looking at our watches, the rest of the team was packed and ready to go. The sun was well below the yardarm as we began our hike down off the mountain. We trudged and tripped ( fresh snow on large rocks is a recipe for pratfalls which, most, if not all, of us took at least once on the way down) and sent our sharpeyed “scouts” ahead to try to find the little “flags” that we assumed (since we didn’t place them) marked a stretch of the way down. The scouts and the rest of our team did a great job of picking out these small markers, placed by some unknown but certainly not unappreciated soul, but ultimately we ran out of flags and out of daylight. Nevertheless, our senses of humor stayed more or less intact as did our sense of where the cars were. We got back to our vehicles at about 11 p.m. The day before we were in this very place, all hydrating with respect for the northern California heat. Now we needed to scrape the ice off of our windshields before we could, finally, make our way out. Ultimately, thankfully, nothing newsworthy happened. We came. We climbed. We left. Same number of climbers as when we started. But, for most, if not all of us, it was a bit unusual. It was adventure. It was, as our climb leader commented, “under conditions ‘more interesting’ than expected.” This day truly had those moments of uncertainty and danger that make life a lot more interesting. I can best relate those things that happened to me, but, naturally, everyone, has their own stories: The climber who jogged from base camp to the cars and back in order to get his ice ax. (And almost got completely lost, alone, in the dark.) The team member who stayed back in camp with altitude
sickness. The nurse on our team who noticed frostbite on the face of one of her rope mates, selflessly gave him her balaclava and stayed with him in a wind-protected spot just a few hundred vertical feet from the peak, while the rest of us summited. This climb was like that, a bit more of almost everything than anyone anticipated. More excitement, more drama, more watching out for one another, more giving, more relief when it was finally over. I think one of my climbing partners put it best when he said, “When we finally got down I reflected on everything that happened this day, after which it occurred to me that, oh, and we summited too.”
About the author: After three decades of running marathons and ultras, a fellow I met on a Hood to Coast team invited me to climb Mt. Hood with him. With all of the endurance work I had under my belt I figured “How hard could it be?” Hard! Next stop, Mazama training classes and a bunch of memorable Mazama climbs.
If you have ever taken others climbing or wish you had some formal training, you may be what is referred to as a recreational guide. Just like commercial guides, you have taken on the responsibilities of teaching, mentoring and guiding others in the vertical world. .
Set yourself up for success with PCGI Tope Rope Guide courses.
Contact Rick Krause; 4 Winds Adventures LLC. 541-633-3997c.
JUNE/JULY 2020 29
Birding While Hiking Mt. Tabor Park by Chris Hinkle
S
ix-hundred foot Mt. Tabor in Southeast Portland is a magnet for walkers, runners, bikers—and birders. A respectable 190 species have been recorded in the park, but it is the tranquil setting and showy specialties (see table) that make this butte the most popular birding spot in the city. On some spring mornings a dozen or more birders congregate to watch baby Great Horned Owls, count flocks of colorful Western Tanagers, and enjoy the dawn chorus. Birding goes beyond watching birds, though. Birders live for sightings of a “lifer,” a species they have never seen before. We challenge each other to see how many species we can identify in a day or a year. We dream of rarities like the Snowy Owl that graced Mt. Tabor one November. MT. TABOR’S SPECIALTIES
WHERE TO LOOK?
Great Horned Owl Barred Owl Red-tailed Hawk Red-breasted Sapsucker Varied Thrush Western Tanager Townsend’s Warbler, Wilson’s Warbler, etc.
Nested in firs south of the Harvey Scott statue this spring; listen for them in the treetops at dusk. A pair frequents the “canyon” and “volcano” area, and sometimes calls during the day. Nests in the park; often seen flying, perched in a fir, or heard screeching. These red-headed woodpeckers are common in the park. Colorful thrush found anywhere in the park in fall, winter, and into spring. Showy yellow bird with a red head; look during the spring migration. Ten species of warblers pass through the park; look for warblers in spring.
The thrill of birding never gets old. I remember my first Cassin’s Vireo on Mt. Tabor brightening a dreary spring morning when I was ten years old. Fifteen years later, I am still finding new birds in the park—a Common Loon flying overhead, a Northern Saw-whet Owl mobbed by towhees, a Western Kingbird perched on a snag. To many locals the park grows stale, but to birders it never does. A birder never knows when a rare bird will alight on a fir or when a lifer will flush from the brush. For many people an adventure requires mountains or faraway lands; for a birder any trip outside is a quest, full of anticipation for what they might find. Birds are unbound by geography and distances. They are free of schedules and quarantines. Birds are found anywhere and anytime—outside the window, along your running route, during a hike. The pandemic is a surreal and tragic time, but while the city is quiet from the diminished noises of industrialization, the birdsong is louder than ever. When the pandemic began its grim march around the world, I was flown home from my Peace Corps post in Panama and I fell into a funk. Birding was my coping mechanism; it gave me a sense of adventure and anticipation within the confines of our quarantined city that still made every venture outside exciting.
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MacGillivray's Warbler, an uncommon spring migrant at Mt. Tabor park. Photo: Annie Tucker.
Anna's Hummingbird, the most common hummingbird in Oregon and the only hummingbird to reside here year-round. Commonly seen at feeders. Photo: Annie Tucker
It is easier than ever to start birding. Mt. Tabor—or any greenspace, including your backyard—is an ideal spot to begin your quest. A field guide is useful and binoculars help, but neither is necessary to start. The website ebird.org has become indispensable for birders. A simple browser search with the keywords “ebird” and “Mt. Tabor Park” will bring up the Mt. Tabor hotspot where five thousand checklists of sightings have been uploaded. You can browse species accounts to learn about their identification, listen to their calls, search recent checklists to discover what has been seen lately, and view interactive maps of sightings for any species around the world. You can also submit your own sightings if you create a ( free) account, or you can go the old-school route and keep a written list of all the birds you see. It starts at one, then ten, then fifty, and eventually a hundred and beyond.
TABOR’S EASY-TO-SEE BIRD SPECIES
HOW COMMON?
1 Dark-eyed Junco 90% 2 Song Sparrow 90% 3 American Crow 90% 4 Northern Flicker 90% 5 American Robin 80% 6 Anna's Hummingbird 80% 7 Bufflehead 70% 8 Steller's Jay 70% 9 Red-breasted Nuthatch 70% 10 Lesser Goldfinch 70% 11 Spotted Towhee 60% 12 House Finch 60% 13 Mallard 60% 14 California Scrub-Jay 50% 15 Ruby-crowned Kinglet* 50% 16 Brown Creeper 50% 17 Band-tailed Pigeon** 50% 18 Black-capped Chickadee 50% 19 Red-tailed Hawk 50% 20 Varied Thrush* 50% 21 Bushtit 50% 22 Hermit Thrush* 40% 23 Black-headed Grosbeak** 40% 24 Barn Swallow** 40% 25 Red-breasted Sapsucker 40% 26 Wilson's Warbler** 30% 27 Violet-green Swallow** 30% 28 Pacific Wren 30% 29 Cedar Waxwing 30% 30 Pine Siskin 30% 31 Western Tanager** 30% *Fall/Winter/Spring only **Spring/Summer only
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Birding, continued from previous page
Red-breasted Sapsucker. Photo: Annie Tucker.
To help beginners get their bearings and grasp an idea for what is most likely in the park, I created a list of the most common easy-to-see birds at Mt. Tabor (see previous page). The percentages indicate how frequently the species is reported. Reading the table, we see that 90% of birders find a Dark-eyed Junco on a given walk through the park; in other words, there’s a good chance that little black-headed sparrow you’re seeing is a junco. The California Scrub-Jay and Steller’s Jay are both found over half of the time—so if you see a blue jay you’ll have to figure out which of the two blue jays it is. The flashy Wilson’s Warbler is less common and only seen in the warmer months, so it might take a few trips until you add one to your list. Expert birders find up to 50-70 species in a day at Mt. Tabor, and get excited by the possibility of rarities, like a Rose-breasted Grosbeak or a Red-naped Sapsucker. These rare or wayward species have been seen only once or twice in the park. You’re unlikely to see one, but for me, that’s what makes it so fun. Birding is an adventure in which you never know what you might discover. Bio: Christopher Hinkle was born and raised in Portland and is a lifelong birder and outdoor enthusiast. After graduating with an engineering degree, he joined the Peace Corps to work on public health and engineering projects in Panama. He is currently in Portland riding out the pandemic. Band-tailed Pigeon, a common breeding species in the park, often seen flying high over the firs. Photo: Annie Tucker
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Lige’s Lumber Summit When Mt. Hood had a Lookout by Ian McCluskey, mages from the Oregon Historical Society, the History Museum of Hood River County, and Will Lehmann
E
ven for those with the advantage of the very latest “ultra-light” gear and advanced climbing tools, summiting Mt. Hood is both strenuous and dangerous—but imagine packing loads of lumber up the steep, icy slopes.
Mt. Hood is the sacred center-point of the Mazamas. On its 11,350 foot summit is where the organization began in 1894. Many Mazamas get their first glaciated peak climb on Hood, or make Mt. Hood their post-BCEP goal. We also celebrate it as one of our beloved Guardian Peaks. Some may have heard that a lookout tower was once on top of the mountain, but few know how it got there, how long it lasted, and how it has a special place in the history of Mt. Hood mountaineering. In 1915, the relatively-new U.S. Forest Service posted rangers on remote peaks across the West to stand sentinel and watch for wildfires in national forests. They asked Elijah "Lige" Coleman to spend his summers on top of Mt. Hood. At the time, Lige had established himself as a climbing guide. Between his first climb in 1897 and his last in 1928, Lige summited Mt. Hood a total of 586 times. (Few can claim such a record, and surely he deserves a Mazama Badge for that!) That summer of 1915, Lige hiked a radio line to the summit and set up a tent. He lived on the summit in his tent for two months. Then, in September, work began to build a wooden lookout tower. First, they had to get all the construction materials to the summit. Mules packed the supplies to Crater Rock. But from that point—as the route gets steep and narrow—Lige and his helpers had to carry the materials on their backs.
Top: Posing at the lookout tower on Mt. Hood. Above: Far view of the Mt. Hood lookout tower.
“It took 10 men 10 days to carry 10 tons of lumber and other material,” the Oregonian newspaper reported. On the last trip, Lige carried a load of nails, hinges, and other hardware totaling 120 pounds.
continued on next page JUNE/JULY 2020 33
Lookout Tower, continued from previous page
Summit lookout on Mt. Hood.
The “roaring” 1920s saw a boom of recreation. Climbers came in droves. (It was estimated that some 2,000 people reached the summit lookout in 1928.) They gathered around the lookout to snack, socialize, and take their summit victory selfies in front of the sign that read: "Mt. Hood/ Lookout Station/ Elevation 11,225 feet" to prove that they’d indeed made it to the top. During these popular years, the lookout was staffed by different folks. One ranger, A.T. Maas, kept hot tea brewing, which he sold to the climbers.
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One couple, Mr. and Mrs. McVickers, spent three summer seasons together staffing the lookout. Rumor has it that a summer storm trapped them in the lookout for an entire week. In 1932, Mack Hall, a University of Oregon alum, was working as the lookout ranger and jokingly told climbers he would gladly pay 35 cents for a dozen eggs (the market price was 20 cents at the time). A 20-year-old bank clerk, Barney Young, climbed Mt. Hood and presented Hall with a dozen eggs. Word spread, and later the lookout was deluged with egg deliveries.
Left: Hauling supplies to the lookout tower. Below: Remnants of the lookout tower on Mt. Hood.
Tragically, the next year in 1933, Mack Hall died when his car skidded over an embankment east of Eugene. That same year, severe storms battered the lookout. Winds shoved it off its foundation, snapping the guy-wires. Heavy snows cracked the lookout's shell and filled the interior. After that, the era of the staffed lookout was over, and the mountain eventually reclaimed the building. Today, in the late season, when the summit snow has receded, you can still see the rusted guy-wires and a few splinters of the boards once packed on the back of Lige Coleman. About the author: Ian McCluskey has summited Mt. Hood approximately 1 percent of the total number of Lige’s summits.
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SAYING GOODBYE
WARREN CAMPBELL GILFILLAN
December 15, 1922–May 19, 2020
W
arren Campbell Gilfillan, known as Gil, was born in Seattle, Washington in 1922. He loved the outdoors and spent much of his youth hunting, fishing, and backpacking in Washington’s backcountry. He served in the Army Air Corps in World War II, then earned a BS in Wildlife Management from Washington State University. After working for both the Washington and California game departments, Gilfillan and his wife Doreen moved to Oregon in 1953, where he served as a district executive for the Boy Scouts of America. He spent five years as the organization’s Director of Camping, before transitioning to the Oregon Fish Commission as information-education officer. He joined the Mazamas in 1953 and was a Life Member. He was a close friend of Life Members Margaret and William Oberteuffer, and also climbed regularly with Monty Smith. Inspired by earlier programs in southern Oregon and California, Oregon’s regional “Outdoor School” launched in 1966 with Gilfillan as its leader. The public school program for sixth graders emphasized a “hands-on” approach to understanding the natural sciences. Each class would spend a week at a local camp learning the basics of environmental science and how the water, soil, plants, and animals interact to form a larger natural system. The ground-breaking and popular program grew and shrank with the vicissitudes of public education funding throughout the next five decades, but always remained a top priority for “Mr. Gil,” who believed that the sustainability of Oregon’s quality of life would depend on its citizens having a fundamental understanding of nature’s interconnected processes. In his final public appearance in 1982, former Governor Tom McCall agreed: “All of us pray that outdoor schools won’t suddenly become environmental frills, especially in light of tax limitation efforts. It is really worthwhile to have this kind of sense, understanding, and appreciation in your blood so that the causes so meaningful to Oregon have knowledgeable advocates. Don’t you doubt Oregon’s
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Gil on the summit of Mt. Adams in 2003 at the age of 80. His last summit was South Sister at age 83.
heritage. With the balanced view of the economy and the environment that you have gained as a result of this school, you know that this balance is vital to making Oregon the livability state of all the Union. Outdoor School has swept me off my feet—the concept, the success, and what it means down the line in terms of a viable, healthy, wonderful, green Oregon.” While working as Director of Outdoor Education, Gilfillan, earned an MS from the University of Oregon in 1969, developing his own curriculum focused on the new field of “environmental education.” Gil retired in 1983, after leading the program for 17 years. In retirement, he enjoyed travel throughout Europe, Russia, northern Africa, Australia, China, Central America as well as remote areas of the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges, the North American Artic, Siberia, and Tibet. He also remained an avid mountaineer and Mazama Club member, summitting Mount Adams at age 80 and South Sister at 83. He spent much of his later years practicing wood carving in the Northwest Coast indigenous style, an art form for which he had a life-long admiration. One of his last visits to Outdoor School in 2014 was covered by the Portland Tribune (tinyurl.com/giloutdoorschool).
In 2012, Gilfillan was profiled on OPB’s Oregon Field Guide program. Gilfillan was delighted in 2016 when Oregon voters approved landmark legislation to fund “Outdoor School For All.” The first year of the state-wide program served more than 30,000 students in all 36 of Oregon’s counties. Since launching in 1966, more than 400,000 fifth- and sixth-graders have attended Oregon’s outdoor schools, for which Gilfillan’s program was the model. He is survived by his wife of 68 years Doreen, son Ian (Nancy), daughter Jule, grandsons Matthew (Laura) and Kevin (Lindsey), and three great-grandchildren (Andrew, Aria, and Asher Campbell Gilfillan). He credited his long life to living in the outdoors and quitting cigarettes at age 12. A memorial service will be arranged for a later date. In lieu of flowers, please send donations to: Friends of Outdoor School, OPB, and the Mazamas
RICHARD NORMAN PUGH
March 8, 1940–June 15, 2020
O
ur friend Dick “Grizzly” Pugh died quietly at home on the afternoon of June 15, having lived a full and fruitful life. He was raised in his parent’s home in Northeast Portland, and bought his adult home across the street when he returned from three years in the U.S. Army. Dick attended Vernon Grade School and Benson Polytechnic High School before enrolling at Portland State College (now PSU). He started out majoring in Electrical Engineering, but changed to General Science under the guidance of Doctors Allen (Geology) and Lange (General Studies), two of the best teachers he ever encountered. They both took a personal interest in Dick, and helped him to develop the teaching skills that served him so well for the rest of his life. He graduated in June of 1963 and found the draft waiting for him. After trying to enlist in first the Air Force and then the Navy, Dick discovered the Army had identified him as a scientist who could be trained to handle nuclear weapons. After Boot Camp at Ft. Ord, that is what he did for his time in the service. When he returned home, Dick went back to PSU for a teaching certificate and a Masters of Science Teaching in Physical Science, then embarked on a 32-year career teaching a variety of physical science classes and becoming the chair of the Science Department at Cleveland High School.
Dick was an outstanding teacher, and his students loved him for his attitude of making sure that their efforts were rewarded. Many of those students were outstanding because Dick made the sciences so interesting. He, along with the Portland Audubon Society, developed what had been a dump and then a landfill into the Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge along the Willamette River. The students had work parties to plant thousands of trees and build trails. I have had the experience of walking those trails and watching his former students bring their children to see the exact trees they had planted 20 years before, and were now 30-50 feet tall. When Taxol (an anti-cancer drug) was first developed from the bark of yew trees, a representative from the Mt. Hood National Forest office called Dick to find out where yew trees lived in their forest. He told them, showed them where to look, and got his students involved in producing saplings for planting. That project only lasted for a few years because the pharmaceutical industry figured out how to synthesize the drug without the help of the trees. Dick joined the Mazamas in 1972. Like the person we came to know him to be, he hit the ground running. By 1974, Dick had climbed the Guardian Peaks. Two years later, he had completed the Oregon Cascades and added that honor to his resume. He became a climb leader later
in 1976, and joined the Climb Committee the year after that. From there, it was on to the Research Committee in 1979 and served as the chair of that committee by 1981. Someone with that kind of drive is a candidate for the Executive Council, and Dick was elected to the EC in 1982, taking the job of treasurer in the last two years of his term. His main contribution in that role was to establish endowments for the Library, Conservation, and Research Committees. Dick loved the outdoors and many of the Mazama activities, but his mind was also in the sky. He was an internationallyrecognized authority on meteors, and an active member of the Oregon Academy of Sciences and their Meteoritical Society, as well as a correspondent to the Smithsonian. In 1983, he presented the first of many programs at the Mazamas on this topic, entitled “Rocks From the Sky: Meteors and Meteorites of the Pacific Northwest.” Two student-made films Dick supervised, titled The Hidden City: Wildlife in an Urban Setting and Cascades Watershed: The Sandy River Basin made their way into Mazama programs. In 2006, as full of initiative as ever, Dick, along with cohort Chris Mackert, jumped into the project of landscaping the then-new Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). Overruling the architect, Dick insisted all plants on the property should reflect their native Northwest
roots. Most of that work survives to this day. Even without picking up a shovel, Dick remained the godfather of the MMC grounds to subsequent volunteers. A man who believed in sharing his talents for the good of the community, in addition to the organizations previously mentioned, Dick served on various advisory groups, including the Oregon Board of Forestry, the Oregon Visibility Advisory Committee, and the City of Portland’s Oregon Urban Forestry Commission. Along his journey through life and the Mazamas, Dick was awarded the Parker Cup in 1983 for substantial contributions to the organization. In light of that presentation the words that were written then reflect a fitting final characterization: He has brightened the lives of his friends, students, and climbing partners with his gruff facade, good humor, and heart of gold. This is a man who will go the extra mile (or 2,000 feet of elevation gain) for anyone who needs him with no questions asked.
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MAZAMA LODGE by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager
D
ue to the ongoing pandemic, the Mazama Lodge has been closed. The current plan is for the Lodge to reopen on July 8 to group bookings only. You can go to mazamalodge.org for updates to the Lodge.
MAZAMA HIKES Our hiking program will get back underway starting on July 15. We will not be publishing the hike schedule in the Bulletin until the COVID-19 pandemic begins to diminish in Oregon. Go to mazamas.org/calendar and search on Hike to view the current hike schedule and sign up for a hike. Please review the Mazama organizational COVID-19 policies prior to signing up for a hike, and adhere to all policies during any Mazama activity.
An early season visitor to the Mazama Lodge.
Mazama CLASSICS
CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710, flobell17@ comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.
SUPPORT THE CLASSICS
For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.
Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.
We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.
CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our next meeting is July 27 from 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. on Zoom. Check the Bulletin or the website.
ZOOM "PICNIC" We are working on putting together a "picnic" on Zoom to gather folks together and see each other's faces after such a long time apart. We'll send out a message via the Classics Listserv when it is scheduled.
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Mazamas® 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org
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Get membership details on page 5 and join today at mazamas.org/join
Climbers on Colchuck Peak. Climbers include Roberta Zouain and Sam Kang. Photo: Andrés Malavassi.