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We are the mountain people. Everything we make is designed by Everything we make is designed by climbers, for climbers. Each piece is climbers, for climbers. Each piece is crafted by peak and crag to give you crafted by peak and crag to give you absolute protection, comfort and mobility absolute protection, comfort and mobility when you really need it. when you really need it.
NEXT ADVENTURE | PORTLAND
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W W W.RAB.EQUIPMENT
MAZAMA BULLETIN
IN THIS ISSUE Executive Director Report, p. 4 Upcoming Events, p. 6 Mazama Grants, p.7 Repair is Radical, p. 8 Wilderness First Aid, p. 12 Trail Trips, p. 14 Mazama Classics, p. 14 Mazama Membership, p. 15 2019 Service & Achievement Awards, p. 16 MMC Improvements, p. 18 Ready to Save the Environment?, p. 19 Mazama Library, p. 20 Peter Parsons & Otto Witt Collection, p. 21 Oregon Glaciers Institute, p. 22 What Does it Mean to Support the Mazamas?, p.23 Basic Climbing Educational Program, p. 24 Dick Pugh Memorial Endowment, p. 26 We Climb High Vol. 2, p. 27 Mazama Bylaws Proposed Amendments, p. 28 Mazama Lodge, p. 29 Executive Council Minutes, p.30
Volume 103 Number 1 January/February 2021
CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org Hours: CLOSED to public access
MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: CLOSED to public access.
PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editors: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor; Mathew Brock, Layout Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA STAFF SARAH BRADHAM, Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org
CLAIRE NELSON Education & Culture Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org
MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org
KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org
LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org
RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facillities@mazamas.org
For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/contactinformation.
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Cover: Michal Podhradsky on Mt. Hood, November 2020. Photo: Bjarne Salen. Above: New Mazama member Kristen Massimino on the summit of South Sister, September 4, 2016.
Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
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Acting Executive Director’s Report
WELCOMING 2021
by Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director
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have always been a nerd for new school supplies (those of you who know me are not surprised), but I can confidently say that I have never been so eager to crack the pages of a new yearly planner and literally close the book on 2020. But for all of the pains of 2020, we enter 2021 with a sense of hope and promise. As of this writing we have two vaccines for COVID-19 approved for emergency use in the United States that are currently being administered to Oregonians, with several more potentially on the way. These vaccines will be a huge step towards all of our lives returning to some semblance of normalcy.
A new president takes office on January 20 and in his first 100 days, Presidentelect Biden has pledged to tackle issues that we consider of high importance to the Mazamas, namely climate change and public lands usage. On day one of his presidency, Biden has pledged that the United States will rejoin the Paris Agreement. He has also stated that his administration will set a target of cutting U.S. emissions to net zero no later than 2050. Biden has appointed Representative Deb Haaland as the Secretary of the Interior. The appointment of Haaland, potentially the first Native American to serve as a cabinet secretary, is a very positive step towards reversing the threats on public lands that we experienced under the outgoing administration. Overall, we keenly await the policy agenda of Biden’s historically diverse cabinet. The Mazama Conservation Committee has been hard at work developing a climate change statement for the Mazamas that addresses the actions the Mazamas will take to continue reducing our own carbon footprint. In the past few years we have taken significant steps towards this goal, including installing solar panels and a new energy-efficient HVAC system at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. We are currently in the process of evaluating our lighting at the MMC with the intent to convert to LED bulbs where possible to continue to decrease our energy usage. While those steps are important and will have a positive impact, organizationally we need to address the fact that our activities have an impact on climate change. When we are able to safely share spaces again, we will return to encouraging people to carpool as much as possible when heading to the mountains to limit the number of cars per activity. 4 MAZAMAS
Sarah enjoying the Elk-Kings Traverse with a friend on a soggy day in October 2020. Getting outside and into nature during this pandemic provides both a physical and mental health boost.
And we will evaluate our programming to determine if there are other actions we can take to reduce our environmental impact. One program we hope to launch this year at the Mazamas is a trailhead clean-up program. Our local trailheads have been overrun during this past year and they could use some love, which is something that our members can provide. We are working with the Forest Service to identify projects that would provide short duration volunteer opportunities for our members and would be of benefit to clearing the backlog of work for the Forest Service. Not only do we get to help clean up the places we love, but we have the added benefit of receiving credit towards our permit fee with the Forest Service—a true win-win! If you are interested in helping to lead this program, please contact me directly.
One of the shifts we made due to COVID that is likely to continue is our move towards virtual meetings and learning opportunities. We have found that using virtual tools to meet is a viable option to get our work done, and it has several major upsides over in person meetings. It limits the amount of driving to and from the MMC, thereby limiting carbon emissions. It enables more people to participate in our committees, as traveling to and from the MMC is not an impediment to joining, and without the constraints of space in the building, committees can meet as frequently as needed. Currently we have people serving on committees who don’t even live in Oregon—which would not have been possible pre-COVID. The same benefits can be said for moving our class lectures into an online format. It makes
As we turn the page on 2020, let us take a moment to mourn for all that we have lost. It was a somber year with resounding impacts, from COVID to wildfires and everything in between. But, let us also find those silver linings—the lessons we learned, the new skills we shared, the solitude we found outside, and the people we connected with when the bounds of travel were removed. our courses more accessible to a broad group of people, it limits our need to rent a large space for courses, and it can strengthen learning outcomes by allowing class participants to revisit portions of lectures as needed. As we embark on 2021, I am also finding positivity in the restarting of our programs and the launch of new programs. Nordic Ski School has a full slate of students and will hit the snow in January. The Backcountry Ski program is gearing up to open registration and get underway in February. The Intermediate Climbing School team is developing a mini-course on snow anchors and crevasse rescue that they are planning to run in February. The First Aid team, which piloted Wilderness First Aid (WFA) courses in November, has scheduled another slate of classes for February. And our Basic Climbing School Education program is due to open for registration in March and operate in April. All of these programs will run in a hybrid format, with online lectures, both synchronous and asynchronous, and in person, small group field sessions. We are so excited to get folks outside, into the spaces we love, both to learn new skills and to feed their souls in the natural environment. So as we turn the page on 2020, let us take a moment to mourn for all that we have lost. It was a somber year with resounding impacts, from COVID to wildfires and everything in between. But, let us also find those silver linings—the lessons we learned, the new skills we shared, the solitude we found outside, and the people we connected with when the bounds of travel were removed. I thank you for continuing to support the Mazamas in 2021 and I hope to see you in person in this new year.
JOIN THE MAZAMAS ARE YOU READY TO BECOME A MAZAMA MEMBER? IF YOU HAVE SUMMITTED A GLACIATED PEAK AT ANY TIME IN YOUR LIFE, YOU ARE READY! GO TO MAZAMAS. ORG/JOIN AND SIGN UP.
EDUCATION ADVOCACY COMMUNITY BUILDING What does it mean to join the Mazamas? As a member, you are part of one of the most respected mountaineering and outdoor organizations in the country. Our members are passionate outdoor individuals who are dedicated to our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. The Mazamas and its members work towards our mission through education, advocacy, and community building.
AS A MEMBER YOU WILL: • Meet new friends who share your love of the outdoors. • Contribute towards scholarships to get underserved populations outdoors. • Enjoy discounted rates on Mazama activities and discounts at local outdoor retailers and gyms. • Receive our bi-monthly Mazama Bulletin magazine. • Join the American Alpine Club (AAC) at a reduced rate (once you join you will receive a code to use on the AAC website). • Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume Mazama Mountaineering Library. • Receive free rescue insurance anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters and up to $10,000 ($5,000 with Mazama membership; $10,000 with joint AAC membership). • Volunteer! You can join our team and lead trips, classes, and other activities.
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UPCOMING EVENTS & CLASSES USING NATURAL FOREST RESOURCES RESPONSIBLY JANUARY 12 | 7–9 P.M. | ZOOM Ben Deumling, co-owner and manager of the Zena Forest and Sawmill, talks about how we as Oregonians can realize a mutually beneficial relationship with our natural forest resources that can provide both healthy ecosystems as well as a robust local economy. He draws on the work he has done with his own business, as well as his work with landowners and forest policy in western Oregon. The Zena Forest is the largest contiguous block of forest left in the Willamette Valley, and a significant reserve of native Oregon white oak habitat.
SAFE OUTSIDE ONLINE TRAINING: PREVENTING SEXUAL HARASSMENT & ASSAULT JANUARY 13 | 6:30–8 P.M. | ZOOM This is an online interactive online training on preventing sexual harassment and assault (SHSA) from happening in the outdoor community. Anyone from the Mazamas community and beyond is welcome to register. Participants who complete this training will be awarded a “Safe Outside Training” badge. This course will:
■ Give context on why preventing SHSA is so important ■ Provide some tools to prevent SHSA from happening ■ Learn how to better support victims ■ Know the Mazama Sexual Harassment and Assault (SHSA) policies and how to report it if it happens More info at mazamas.org/activity/instance/7322/
BACKCOUNTRY SKI TOURING INFO NIGHT JANUARY 19 | 6 P.M. | ZOOM Please join us at the Backcountry Ski Touring Info Night to learn more about the 2021 course, including COVID-related changes, and to meet a few of this year’s instructors and assistants. Register here: tinyurl.com/Backcountry2021
WILDERNESS FIRST AID: INFO NIGHT JANUARY 20 |6:30 P.M. | ZOOM Find out everything you need to know about the Hybrid Wilderness First Aid (WFA) courses being offered this winter during the January 20 Wilderness First Aid Info Night on Zoom. Advance registration is required at tinyurl.com/mazwfainfo
BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM: INFO NIGHT JANUARY 28 | 6:30–8 P.M. | ZOOM Come join our Basic Climbing Education Program Committee to learn about our course for 2021. See article on page 24 for more infornmation. Advanced registration is required at tinyurl.com/BCEPinfo2021
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FULL! MINI COURSE: CREVASSE RESCUE WITH SNOW ANCHORS REGISTRATION OPENS JANUARY 5 AND CLOSES JANUARY 18. COURSE DATES ARE FEBRUARY 2–14. Taught by the Mazama Intermediate Climbing School team. This course filled very quickly. You can still go to the registration link and fill out an interest form to help us gauge the extent of the interest Link: tinyurl.com/MazCRwinter21. This mini course is designed to introduce climbers to knowledge and skills that would allow them to participate in and lead a basic crevasse rescue scenario. The course will take place both virtually and in person, with two online lectures and three days of outdoor field sessions over two weekends. At the end of the mini course climbers will have the knowledge and skills to assess a crevasse rescue situation, set an anchor in the snow, rig a haul system, and extract a fallen climber from a crevasse. Tuition: $150 members/$185 nonmembers.
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES PUBLICATIONS TEAM The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it’s even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team. Inquire at publications@mazamas.org
WFA BUILDING COORDINATOR We are in need of volunteers to monitor the Mazama Mountaineering Center during one of our external Wilderness First Aid courses. Building coordinators will be responsible for opening/closing the building, periodically cleaning the restrooms, and ensuring class coordinators have access to what they need. Learn more and sign up at tinyurl.com/WFAvol
SHORT-TERM VOLUNTEER PROJECTS None of the above suit your fancy (or availability)? We’ve got a plethora of small volunteer projects that we need help with! Learn more and sign up at tinyurl.com/MazShort
VIRTUAL COURSES ADVANCED ROCK VIDEO LEARNING SERIES Our friends on the Advanced Rock Committee have been busy during COVID making accessible and informational climbing videos to help you improve your climbing game. Tune in each week for new videos! Check vimeo.com/mazamas for all the videos
MAZAMA GRANTS
The Mazamas has a long history of exploration, research, and conservation. Since our inception we have stated that one of our primary purposes is "... to explore mountains, to disseminate authoritative and scientific information concerning them, and to encourage the preservation of forests and others features of mountains in their natural beauty.� This mission of exploration, research, and conservation is now carried out partially through the distribution of grants to qualified individuals and institutions who share these goals.
RESEARCH | DEADLINE JANUARY 15 For more infomation and application guidelines visit mazamas.org/researchgrants/
CONSERVATION | DEADLINE MARCH 31, For more infomation and application guidelines visit mazamas.org/conservationgrants
EXPEDITION | DEADLINE TBD For more information, application date, and guidelines visit mazamas.org/expeditiongrants/
Photo: Wim Aarts
SUPPORT THE MAZAMAS AmazonSmile is a simple way for you to support the Mazamas every time you shop, at no cost to you. When you shop at smile.amazon.com, Amazon will donate a portion of the purchase price to the Mazamas. Be sure to select Mazamas as your charity of choice.
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Repair is radical ! t i o d n a c u o y d n a —
Article and photographs by Claire Tenscher
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educe, Reuse, Recycle—pillars of the sustainability mantra. Many of us buy in bulk, bring our canvas totes to the store, and sort out as much recyclable waste as possible. I once made a New Year’s resolution to not buy anything that came in a plastic package for two months. But what about the fourth R?
Repair is the most difficult R to practice. First, most good repairs require specialized equipment and knowledge. I’m not questioning the silver tape repaired spark-hole in your puffy—but that solution won’t work for everything. To repair most fabrics you’ll need at a minimum a spool of thread and a needle. Beyond that, the would-be repairer needs to know basic sewing techniques like how to tie a knot at the end of your thread, a stitch type, and how to end your seam. Other things, like chipped skis, delaminated hiking boots, or skins that are coming unglued require unique techniques. Luckily for all of us, the internet has made many of these repairs accessible to the layman. Youtube videos, Instructables, Reddit, and thousands of obscure forums across the web offer detailed steps to complete many types of repair. With that barrier lessened, what stops us from repairing our stuff ? Some would argue that time is an issue, but many repairs, especially clothing repairs, can be completed in half an hour or less. I do not think people are too lazy to repair their gear either. We’re dedicated, passionate people. Repairing a jacket instead of throwing it away prevents it from going to a landfill and prevents the waste associated with making a new jacket. The greatest barrier to repair is emotional. We have been conditioned to think success means having new-looking clothes with no flaws or blemishes. Ads make us lust after the gear we don’t own yet. Someone with patches on their clothes looks less-than. Fitting in seems to require
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a certain standard of dress. I can hear the devil’s advocate pointing to a fashionable sweater that comes with patched elbows, or distressed denim. But even those items look new. A patched hole on a sock is clearly a repair, not a fashion statement, embroidery covering up moth holes tells the story of a sweater that was kept rather than discarded. Frequently we see people who wear repaired gear as iconoclasts, as the last of the real dirtbags. With bravery and a small amount of time, we can be those iconoclasts. We must all embrace repair. Darn our socks! Take our shoes in to be re-soled! Wear your self-embroidered shirt with pride. To that end I am going to share some simple repair techniques, and some of the items I’ve repaired, and had repaired in the next few pages. It is humbling to share this work—I’m far from an expert. But I believe in practicing what I preach. I want to encourage those who’ve never repaired anything to give it a try and celebrate my fellow Mazamas who are already repairing their gear. If you have a repair you’d like to share, send us a picture and some tips on how you did it: publications@mazamas.org
SOME TIPS FOR PEOPLE NEW TO REPAIR 1.
Don’t be embarrassed if your repair is obvious. Overcome the shame in visible mending and in ugly mending. As a society we need to be comfortable with imperfection. If we can’t pridefully wear things we fix there will always be stigma around repaired clothing. This is classist as
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well as unsustainable. Think of your repair as art, as sustainability, as making your stuff unique. If you can’t fix it, check out one of our local Pacific Northwest Repair companies. Seattle and Portland are both home to gear repair shops, they’re active on Instagram—it’s a ton of fun to see the projects they work on. There are also cobblers who specialize in shoes and boots and local tailors who can make gear fit you and fix clothing
SOME VOCAB • Right side: the side of the fabric that will show when worn. For example on a sock, the right side is the side that doesn’t touch your foot. On a pillow, the right side is the outside. • Wrong side: the side of the fabric that is hidden when worn. The inside of a sock, the side of a pair of pants that touches your body. • Seam allowance: the space between needle holes and the edge of the fabric. This space prevents your stitches from ripping to the edge of the fabric and helps prevent the fabric from unraveling. For the stiches discussed in this article you will need a needle, scissors, and thread.
1. The author’s first attempt at an embroidered repair. Embroidery isn’t covered here and requires additional equipment including a hoop and embroidery needles. If you’re interested in learning more, let us know.
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3. It’s hard to see, thanks to the black thread used, but this seam had gotten loose. I couldn’t trim the threads without destroying the seam’s integrity so I tacked them down with black thread and pulled as many as I could to the back side. There is a special type of needle, called a ‘cheater needle’ that has an hinged eye and will allow you to feed thread through and pull to the back.
2. Pink thread used for visibility! If I’d taken tighter stiches or used a black thread, this repair would have been invisible. You can see some previously repaired holes on this sock if you look closely.
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4. I chose to use a whip stitch in a pretty magenta on this split seam because I wanted to be reminded of the repair. This is from a company that does offer repairs, but fixing it myself guaranteed I’d get to keep the jacket I loved and reduced the waste associated with shipping the jacket to and from a repair company.
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5. I initially tried to fix this with tape, which quickly peeled off in this high friction area. There was not enough fabric here to do a ladder or whip stitch. The repair company’s strap based patch is highly superior, and gave me ideas for fixing other items I own. Again, done by a Portland area company.
6 6. The pockets in this jacket blew out and the insulation could be seen. The local repair company added in the blue rectangles – color at my request – and reinstalled the zippers. Looks great and functions again.
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Radical Repair, continued from previous page WHIP STITCH: FIXING HOLES IN SOCKS WITHOUT DARNING I frequently use a whip stitch because it’s simple and strong. Full disclosure, I have not learned to darn so I repair all my socks with a whip stitch. It works for me and holds up to heavy use. Pros: easy, prevents fabric from unravelling, visibile Cons: Visible? Items Needed: Needle, thread
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Tie a knot at the end of a piece of thread, you’ll get a feeling for how much thread to use as you repair things more frequently. I generally about a foot of thread to give myself plenty of length to work with. If the repair is in an area that gets a lot of use I will double the thread over and tie the ends together. There are all kinds of fancy knot tying techniques for sewing. For a single strand of thread I simply tie two overhand knots on top of each other—it’s easy to remember and effective. Turn your item inside out if possible. You’ll be stitching on the inside of the garment. If you can’t turn the item inside out, like the jacket shown below, your seam will be visible. If you would prefer the smooth side of the seam against your skin, adjust appropriately Insert the thread in the fabric and pull through, til the knot is flush with the fabric. Hold the sides of the hole together and take your needle through both sides. Pull the thread through until it stops. Insert the needle in the opposite side of the seam, piercing both sides again. Pull the thread through. Repeat this looping process until you have closed the hole. Keep the stitches close together. If you’re worried about the strength of the seam, repeat the process going the opposite direction. When you’re ready to finish the seam, stick the needle in the fabric under one of your other stitches and pull it out in almost the same spot. Don’t pull tight. Thread the needle through the loop you just created and THEN tighten. Repeat step 7 for extra security. Trim your thread tail close to the knot. Ready to wear!
LADDER STITCH: INVISIBLE REPAIRS The ladder stitch is what really prompted me to write this article. I was so excited to learn a new stitch. I know I talk about being proud of my repairs, but it’s also nice to have something in my toolkit that isn’t obvious. Think of the ladder stitch like a zipper, you’re putting stitches on either side of the hole and then pulling the edges together. This one is also good for sewing pillows closed after stuffing them.
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Pros: Still relatively easy, flies under the radar Cons: Doesn’t work in every situation Items Needed: Needle, thread
STEPS 1.
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Tie a knot at the end of a piece of thread, you’ll get a feeling for how much thread to use as you repair things more frequently. I generally use about a foot of thread to give myself plenty of length to work with. If the repair is in an area that gets a lot of use I will double the thread over and tie the ends together. There are all kinds of fancy knot tying techniques for sewing. For a single strand of thread I simply tie two overhand knots on top of each other— it’s easy to remember and effective. Insert your needle in the fabric, starting from the underside so your knot is protected and hidden. Cross the gap and insert the needle in the other side of the fabric, leave some fabric between your needle hole and the edge (in sewing this is called a seam allowance) so your thread doesn’t rip through the edge. Run the needle behind the fabric for a few millimeters, then poke it through the same side. The longer the distance between the needle holes the looser the edge will be. Cross the needle over to the other side and repeat step 3. Repeat 3–4 until you have stitches along the entire length of the hole. Pull the thread to tighten. There are two methods to end this seam. You can make a small visible knot, like in the whip stitch or you can tie a knot in your thread right where your line of stitches ends. Then stab the needle into the seam, and out a little ways away and pull hard enough that the knot pops through the fabric and is hidden under the surface. Trim your thread ends and pull them inside the item so they are hidden.
BONUS ROUND: EPOXIED SKI CHIP I was pretty bothered by a big chip I took out of a pair of skis a while back. Leaving it open was an option but could have led to further chipping and some increased rust potential.
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Create a dam using masking tape, a couple of layers will create a nice wall around your chipped area. Make sure the surface is clean and dry Mix your epoxy (available in small tubes from the hardware store) Fill the chipped area with the epoxy, a bit of meniscus over the none tape side is fine. You’ll need to sand it down regardless Follow the curing/dying steps on the epoxy packaging. When fully cured, remove the tape, and sand to the finish you prefer.
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WILDERNESS FIRST AID
by Duncan Hart
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uring November, the Mazamas piloted four sessions of hybridlearning Wildreness First Aid (WFA). Thirty-three students successfully completed the self-paced online learning modules with video based lectures and chose an option of virtual or in-person skills demonstration. The WFA certification is a nationally-recognized certification issued by Base Medical and good for two years. Student feedback was very positive about the quality of the online learning resources, and the online and in-person skill sessions.
What we learned was that online and virtual WFA training is possible and many students reported that it was a preferred methodology during COVID and beyond. The new format allows students time to selfpace the online training, better prepare for the practical skills demonstration and avoid some travel. During the in-person skills practical sessions, the classes tested Mazama COVID Policy and provided valuable lessons learned to the Mazama Education Committee and 2021 BCEP. The First Aid team is in the process of qualifying Mazama members as Base Medical instructors who will be trained to deliver consistent curriculum of assessment, prevention, and response skills while providing first aid in the backcountry. There are plans to introduce a Mountain First Aid weekend Skill Builder at the Mazama Lodge this fall where WFA will be a prerequisite. While we are still under local COVID restrictions, the First Aid team will offer four more WFA courses in March 2021. The courses will remain limited to 10 participants each and will also have a 100 percent online option. COVID precautions will be strictly followed during the skills sessions to ensure a safe environment for all participants. If there is a surge in COVID cases, we reserve the right to either postpone or change remote options.
Email wfaregistrar@mazamas.org if you have any questions about this class..
Top: In-person WFA at the MMC. Bottom: Online WFA.
To register for the class, go to mazamas.org/WFA. REGISTRATION OPENS JANUARY 26 Practical Session Options: Option 1: In-person, 8-hour (8–5 p.m.) at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Dates: March 3, 6, 7 (limit 10 people per session) Option 2: ZOOM-based , 8-hour (8/9–5 p.m.). Date: March 14 Tuition: $175 members/$225 nonmembers
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SAYING GOODBYE
DARVEL LLOYD December 22, 1942–December 15, 2020 Darvel Lloyd, long associated with Mt. Adams and Pacific Northwest mountaineering, passed away on December 15, 2020. Along with their father, Darvel and his twin brother, Darryl, first climbed Mt. Adams in 1953 at the age of ten. A year later the boys climbed Mt. Hood for the first time. Darvel joined the Mazamas in 1976. And while only a Mazama for a short time, he and his brother are rumored to have climbed Mt. Adams fifty times each. The brothers founded, first the Mount Adams Wilderness Institute, and later the nonprofit Friends of Mount Adams. Darvel went on to climb most of the peaks in the Pacific Northwest and many along the Contental Divide in Colorado.
Mazama Climbing Challenge Is your New Year’s Resolution to climb more? Join us in pushing your climbing skills to the next level with our month-long climbing challenge starting January 1, 2021. This challenge is brought to you by Advanced Rock, and the goal is to reach the highest number of vertical feet climbed! Climb at home, at the gym, outside, wherever! And log it all in our shared Google Sheet, and one winner will receive a prize at the end! Register your name at tinyurl.com/ MazClimbingChallenge to participate, and get ready for January 1. Keep climbing!* *We understand that climbing during the winter often involves climbing indoors, and with partners. Please follow all current COVID-19 recommendations and guidelines, such as wearing masks, keeping at least 6 feet of distance when at all possible, and climbing with members of your household or COVID-circle.
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MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE
The Mazamas offers our Trail Trips (hiking) program to serve just about every ability level. We have leaders who like to take their time meandering along flat trails for a short duration, while others want to hike at a fast clip up the side of a mountain. You get to choose what is best for you! Due to COVID-19 our hiking program is limited at this time. Please go to our website—mazamas.org/hiking—to see the most up to date hiking and snowshoeing options. All participants must follow Mazama COVID protocols, which can be found at mazamas.org/COVID All Mazamas hikes are open to members and nonmembers. We welcome nonmembers or those with limited experience on our hikes. Our leaders are some of the most experienced hikers in the Northwest, and they can show you some spots that you might never get to on your own! Hikes are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers. Sign up online.
MAZAMA CLASSICS
For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of yearround activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org. SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help. CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.
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The Classics are continuing to offer a few hikes and winter events following the current COVID protocols. Look in the Mazama calendar for events by Jim Selby and Flora Huber. Our virtual December luncheon via Zoom attracted about 30 attendees. A big thanks to Kelsey Shaw, Member Services Administrator, and Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director for getting it setup and attending. It was great to see faces again and visit. Classics that normally couldn’t come to the Mazama Mountaineering Center because of distance were able to participate. Out of town attendees were as far away as Arizona and Illinois. We’re crossing our fingers that with COVID vaccines coming, we may be able to have an in-person luncheon at Mazama Lodge in September. A lot has to go right for it to happen, but we’re hopeful. We will keep you informed as summer begins. Pins for new 25-year and 50-year members achieving that milestone with 2021 membership renewal were mailed out in mid December. We also mailed out pins to 60-year and 70-year members that achieved that milestone in 2020. Email us at classics@mazamas.org if there’s an issue.
MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP NOVEMBER NEW MEMBERS: 11 Steve Clark—Mt. Hood Lorna Cole—Mt. Hood Ken Engstrom—Iztaccihuatl (Mexico) Landon Glynn—South Sister Pehr Jacobson—Mt. St Helens Kevin MacKay—South Sister Melanie Means—Mount St. Helens Roberto Morales-Lovseth—Mt. Hood Melissa Carmella Potter—Mount St. Helens Brian White—Zuckerhütl (Switzerland) Jared Wilken—Mount St. Helens
REINSTATEMENTS: 11 David Aaroe (2007), Kate De Cesare (2016), Alessio De Cesare (2014), Phil Evans (1994) Kate Jones (2017), Allison Legg (2008), Mark Mott (2016), Jonathan Pincus (2016), Amy Satak (2014), Ralph Shuping (2014) & Jeff Swift (2018)
DECEASED: 1 Jerry Wallace (1988)
MEMBERSHIP ON NOVEMBER 30: 2,441 (2020); 2,670 (2019)
DECEMBER NEW MEMBERS: 18 Rehan Ahmad—Mount St. Helens Jane Bacchieri—Mount St. Helens Julie Berry —Mount St. Helens Erik Brakstad —Mt. Hood Vanessa Brigham—Mt. Hood Nandini Chaturvedi—Mt. Rainier Matthew Ellis—Mt. Shasta Natasha Haunsperger South Sister McKenzie Johnson—Mt. Rainier Eric Koon—Mount St. Helens J. Kubala—St. Vrain Mountain (CO) Aaron Leingang—Mt. Adams Brian Oelberg—Mt. Washington (OR) Laura Ostrom—Mount St. Helens Jordan Prouty—Mt. Rainier Amy Rathfelder—South Sister Mario Saldana—Mt. Adams Chuck Smith—Mt. Hood
REINSTATEMENTS: 6 Justin Baur (2017), Kimberly Crihfield (2002), Bill Honjas (1974), Kelli Horvath (2016), David Level (2019) & Eric Schmidt (2019)
DECEASED: 1 James Kirk (1952)
MEMBERSHIP ON DECEMBER 31:
WELCOME NEW MAZAMA MEMBERS! Top: Julie Berry and David Hill on the summit of Mount St. Helens in July 24, 2020. Middle Left: Pehr Jacobson on the summit of Mount St. Helens, March 31, 2019. Middle Right: Ana Eguren on the summit of South Sister, August 24, 2020. Bottom: Evan Swanson on the summit of Mount St. Helens, March 30, 2020
2,537 (2020); 2,805 (2019)
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 15
2019 SERVICE & ACHIEVEMENT
AWARDS
T
he COVID-19 pandemic disrupted many Mazama activities and events in 2019. Among others, it denied the Mazama community the opportunity to come together in celebration of their accomplishments. The Climbing and Trail Trips Committees would like to recognize the following individuals for their contributions to the organization and its members.
S E RV I C E AWA R D S JOE LEUTHOLD AWARD: BRUCE YATVIN This is the highest honor to be bestowed upon a climb leader by the Climbing Committee. The award is for a high standard of leadership, devotion to climbing, and service to the Mazamas. The recipient must have successfully led official Mazama climbs of all 16 major Northwest peaks and contributed many hours of leadership to other Mazama activities. It is seldom awarded and cannot be applied for. In addition to his many, many climb leads, Bruce led a Basic Climbing Education Program team and assisted with other climbing classes for many years. He also served on the Climbing Committee and managed the Terry Becker Rope Room for many years. He is only the 20th leader to receive the award.
16 MAZAMAS
WILLIAM P. HARDESTY LEADERSHIP CUP: DAVID BRAEM The William P. Hardesty Leadership Cup is the award presented by the Trail Trips Committee to the Mazamas who best exemplifies the spirit of volunteerism and service to the hiking community.
A C H I E V E M E N T AWA R D S CLIMBING
Long Ong
Ian McCluskey
Seven Oregon Cascade
Seven Oregon Cascade
Lindsey Addison
Alex Lockard
Guardian Peaks
Seven Oregon Cascade
Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: A certificate awarded for successfully sumitting Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, 3-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister, and South Sister on official Mazama climbs. Guardian Peaks: A certificate awarded for successfully sumitting Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Adams on official Mazama climbs.
HIKING
The Mazama Trail Trips Committee organizes a robust hiking program that gets thousands of people hiking every year. Trail Trips awards are given to both hike leaders and hike participants based on hikes led and miles hiked.
Hike leader awards are based on the number of official Mazama hikes led. These awards are cumulative from year to year.
150 Hike Leads Leslie Shotola Jennifer Trask Flora Huber
75 Hike Leads Steve Benson Richard Sandefur Bill Stein
100 Hike Leads Sherry Bourdin
50 Hike Leads Dyanne Foster Kurt Heiland Ellen Burns
25 Hike Leads Tom Jones Lori Brown Inga Winters Tom Dodson
Hike participant awards are based on the number of miles hiked on official Mazama hikes. These awards are cumulative from year to year.
7,000 Miles Rex Breunsbach
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 17
MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER IMPROVEMENTS by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager
O
ver the past two months, Mazama member Jeff Hawkins has spearheaded the replacement of the MMC’s heating and cooling system. Anyone who has spent time in the MMC knows the inadequacies of the old system. In the middle of winter, you find yourself scrambling to turn on the AC in order to keep the meeting room upstairs cooler than a sauna, while the folks downstairs need space heaters to keep from freezing. In the summer the AC needs to be set low to cool the upstairs, causing those on the main level to need a jacket. The old system was also oversized for the space, resulting in the system short-cycling, or turning on and off frequently. In short, an inefficient and poorly designed system for our space. Jeff Hawkins came up with the idea of a split system consisting of two residential units that would heat/cool the upstairs and main floor independently. The split system is an ideal solution for the MMC. It allows us to heat and cool sections of the building only when they are in use, and it should eliminate our need to run the AC in the middle of winter. Moving into the residential classification also enabled us to purchase high-efficiency units that are more environmentally friendly, saving
energy. Because the units are rightsized for our space, they function more evenly, improve comfort, and improve the longevity of the equipment. And, importantly, the new system also includes an ultraviolet air purifier to clean the circulating air. As we welcome people back inside the MMC in 2021 this will ensure that we are all breathing clean, healthy air. After the new systems were installed, Jeff worked with long-time Mazama member and professional cabinet maker
John Meckel to renovate the Tom Dinsmore and Barbara Marquam copy room to be more efficient and provide much-needed storage. In addition, the new space has two countertop workspaces, a recycling station, and a dedicated location for our emergency response plans and equipment manuals. A huge thank you to Jeff and John for all their hard work and support of this muchneeded renovation.
Tom Dinsmore & Barbara Marquam copy room before (left) and after (right) renovations. Photos: Sarah Bradham.
18 MAZAMAS
ARE YOU READY TO HELP
save the environment? by Kirsten Jacobson
I
n a time when the U.S. media often reports dismal news about our environment, you may be surprised to find out about some of the solutions that are on the horizon—some are already being implemented. Early in the pandemic, with stay at home orders in place and before masks were readily available, we got a glimpse of what our world would be like with cleaner air—with so few gas cars on the road.
There are choices for those who want to reduce their use of fossil fuels and improve air quality by driving zero emission cars. There are a great number of EVs (electric vehicles) that are coming to market in the next couple of years or are currently available now in the United States. Ranges are getting better. Trucks are being introduced by Atlis, Bollinger, Chevy, Ford, GMC, Lordstown, Nikola, Rivian, and Tesla. These trucks have higher clearance than most electric vehicles and come with impressive towing and payload capacities. Several cars, like Tesla Model S. Photo: Kirsten Jacobson. the K-Byte and BAIC EU260, are being have a low cost EV model to compete with introduced into foreign countries. And, large electric buses and trucks are available them. In addition to buying an electric vehicle, through companies like Build Your Dream leases are also available. Tesla offers a Motors, Inc (BYD). BYD Motors also offers two- or three-year lease on their vehicles. fleet cars like their e6 which are being used And, Car & Driver reported that the 2019 as eTaxis. Another company, Proterra, Inc, Hyundai Ioniq Electric was being leased is partnering with other companies to for only $79/month with only $999 due at design electric transit buses, school buses signing in New York City. Who knows what and charter buses. And, did you know kind of deals you may find in your area – Hertz offers a “Green Traveler Collection?” check it out! So you can rent a low emissions car when You may also be interested in knowing you are traveling. that a tax credit of up to $7,500 may Maybe you have considered buying an be offered by the IRS for new EVs that electric car but have seen the price tags are purchased to be used in the US. To and don’t think you can afford one. During find out more, and to see if the car you “Battery Day” Tesla announced plans to are interested in qualifies, visit www. bring a $25,000 electric car to market in fueleconomy.gov/feg/taxevb.shtml. the next couple of years. They have a new The scope of this article was to get battery that is less expensive to produce. you excited about electric cars so you can If they can do it, competitors will have to join the movement to improve air quality
and reduce your impact on the climate— reduce your impact on communities where fracking is taking place and where oil leases are putting communities at risk. If you are interested in reading more about fracking and its effects on water quality and air quality, Greenpeace has an article you may find interesting, tinyurl.com/ Greenfracking. Together we can cut the demand for fossil fuels. This will improve our local communities and our world community. We would love to hear ways in which you are combating global warming and saving the environment as a Mazama. I hope you will consider writing an article for the Bulletin sharing your ideas. It may help others who want to help but do not know how they can contribute.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 19
Mazama
LIBRARY
Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library.
Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country. Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.
READING RECOMMENDATIONS Eiger: Wall of Death It killed the first nine men who challenged it. This is the story of those who failed and those who triumphed. And of the rescue and disaster of the forty-three who died of “an excess of courage” on the Eigernordwand–the ultimate Alpine challenge. Recommended by: Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director
DID YOU KNOW? • The Tatra National Park straddles the border between Slovakia and Poland; all the high peaks are in Slovakia. • Mount Shishaldin, regarded as the world’s most perfectly conical volcano, is on Unimak Island in the Alaskan Aleutian Islands. • The Zugspitze cable car system, to the summit of Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak, holds the world’s record for longest freespan in a cable car at 3,213 meters. • Mount Roraima, shaped like a wedge of cheese is 90 percent in Venezuela and 10 percent in Guyana. • The Andes are the longest mountain range in the world, running 4,300 miles all the way down the western edge of South America.
Mazama Library call# 914.94.R74
Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory & Irvine Recounts the adventures of a group of mountaineers who climbed Mount Everest in 1999 in search of evidence that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine had reached the summit in 1924, decades before Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953. Recommended by: Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Mazama Library call# 914.94.R74
20 MAZAMAS
Mazama Library
REOPENING
Starting in January the Mazama Library will begin offering curbside pick up for library books placed on hold. The library will also begin offering in-person research opportunities by appointment. Watch the weekly eNews and the Mazama website for more up to date information. Contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager at mathew@mazamas.org with any questions.
Pete Parsons & Otto Witt
COLLECTION
by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collection Manager
“
April 12, 1924. I left Douglas Arz. [sic] yesterday at 1 p.m. and headed north along a road that goes up to some ranches up in Spring Valley.” With those words, Pete Parsons set off on a three-month journey that would take him from the U.S. Mexico border, up the Continental Divide, and across into Canada. The story of Parsons 1924 journey is aptly and superbly told by Barney Mann in The Swede Who Showed America How to Hike in the August/September Mazama Bulletin. While Parsons’ 1924 journey is remarkable and has the potential to rewrite the history of long walks in the United States, it is but one journey Parsons took in a lifetime of adventures. A recent addition to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections is helping to unravel and bring to light his amazing achievements.
In late January of 2020, the Mazama Library and Historical Collections was honored to accept the donation of Parsons’ photographs, journals, and related materials. Comprised of over a dozen journals, hundreds of prints, and close to 1400 negatives, the Pete Parsons and Otto Witt Collection is a unique and historically valuable addition to our holdings. A note about the collection’s name. While the collection focuses on Parsons’s travels, the donor asked that Otto Witt’s name be included in the collection to honor the Witt family’s stewardship of the collection from 1930 until the present. Otto Witt was a good friend of Parsons, acting as his banker, safe deposit box, storage unit, and roommate. After Parsons’s untimely death in 1930, Otto Witt, and later his daughter, held on to his journals and photographs for ninety years until they were transferd to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections.
COLLECTION SCOPE The Parsons Witt collection spans from 1912 to 1930 and contains not only prints and negatives from Parsons’ travels but also his detailed handwritten journals, postcards, maps, and other material related to his life. Over those eighteen years, Parsons’ travels took him as far north as Alaska and south to Panama City, Panama. He spent the falls and winters in Mill City, Oregon, and his springs and summers walking the Cascades, Sierra Nevada, and Rocky Mountain ranges. In addition to his long walks, the photograph collection documents his interest in tall-masted sailing ships and airplanes. His journals, however, give insight into his wide range of interests, from aeronautics to electronics to celestial navigation.
VALUE AND IMPORTANCE Pete Parsons was not a Mazama, and as best we can tell, he never took part in any Mazama activities. Why then, you might ask, did we accept the donation of his photographs and journals? The collection development policy of the Mazama Library and Historical Collection prioritizes the collecting of records and materials in the following four areas: Mazamas doing Mazama activities; Mazamas doing non-Mazama activities; non-
Pete Parsons outside his tent, Altadena, California, ca. 1927 Mazamas doing Mazama activities, and finally non-Mazamas doing non-Mazama activities. It is into this last category that the Pete Parsons collection falls. His collected photographs, journals, and other materials are valuable to the broader history of mountaineering activities in the Pacific Northwest. As one of the few mountaineering libraries in the United States, we have a responsibility to safeguard all the history of mountaineering, not just our own. The addition of the Parsons Witt Collection to the Mazamas is a closing of the circle of sorts. As Barney Mann’s article alludes to, had it not been for Jeff Thomas showing him the summit register from Mt. Jefferson, Parsons story might have remained untold. That one line, in an old summit register, sent Mann on a quest to discover who Pete Parsons was. It seems fitting that Parsons’ collection now resides in the Mazama Library and Historical Collection. If you haven’t already, be sure to check out the long-form retelling of Parsons’ 1924 trek on mazamasblog.org. Look for more articles and exhibits featuring photographs and stories from this collection in the future.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 21
OREGON GLACIERS
INSTITUTE
by Anders Carlson
T
he Oregon Glacier Institute is looking for photographs you may have of Oregon glaciers that predate 2010. Ideally, these photographs would be from the summer to fall and hopefully late summer to mid-fall (August to October). These photographs will help the Oregon Glaciers Institute reconstruct glacier change over the last century. From these data, models can be constructed to forecast glacier viability in the face of global warming.
We provide a list of glaciers we are interested in below. The preferred file format is a . jpg (or . jpeg), whether from a digital camera or scanned film or slides; other formats will still be much appreciated. If you have physical
photographs but no means of scanning them, please contact us to determine how to proceed with converting the photograph to digital. Along with the file, please include the location from which the picture was taken (preferably latitude and longitude),
which glacier is in the picture, and the date of the photograph. Please submit photographs to orglaciersinst@gmail.com
TABLE OF GLACIERS BY MOUNTAIN Mt. Hood
Mt. Jefferson
North Sister
Middle Sister
South Sister
Broken Top
Coe
Jefferson Park
Collier
Diller
Carver
Bend
Eliot
Russell
Linn
Hayden
Clark
Crook
Glisan
Thayer
Irving
Eugene
No-Name
Ladd
Villard
Renfrew
Lewis
Langille
Lost Creek
Newton Clark
Prouty
Palmer
Skinner
Reid Sandy White River Zigzag The mountains on this table appear left to right from north to south geographically. Glacier names are listed in alphabetical order.
22 MAZAMAS
W H AT D O E S I T M E A N TO SUPPORT THE MAZAMAS? by Laura Burger, Development Coordinator
O
ften we talk about donations and membership renewals “supporting Mazamas” but what does that actually mean?
In fiscal year 2020 (October 1, 2019–September 30, 2020), 48 percent or our revenue was generated through individual donations, grant awards, and membership dues. This is vital revenue that impacts every single opportunity that we offer, for our members and volunteers as well as for our greater community. For a broad idea of what that really means, this revenue: ■ Funds the scholarship and financial aid programs that are offered across all of our classes, climbing program, and the Mazama WILD day camp. ■ Funds the Youth Outreach Climbing Program, allowing us to offer rock climbing opportunities at a greatly reduced cost to our non-profit partners, such as Family of Friends, Betties 360, and Wild Diversity. ■ Funds our Conservation, Expedition, and Research grant-giving programs so that Mazamas can support community members doing important work in fields such as climate research and ecosystem degradation. ■ Provides safety and skill training for our volunteer hike, climb, and education leaders. ■ Supports our advocacy work through important partnerships with fellow nonprofits and coalitions, such as the Oregon Outdoor Coalition and the Outdoor Alliance. ■ Provides safe and modern gear for our climbs, education programs, and Youth Outreach programs. ■ Preserves and safeguards our archive of regional mountaineering history and supports the nationally recognized Mazama Library, an invaluable resource for our members, researchers, and the public at large. 11% ■ Supports maintaining our facilities where we host our business 20% operations, courses, and activities, along with supporting our professional staff. 16% It is also important to know how donations, grants, and memberships build on each other to create a greater impact together. Each and every member and donor is a voice supporting 18%the Mazamas—our work in the community, education programs, outdoor advocacy and stewardship opportunities, and our mission of inspiring everyone to love21% and protect the mountains. Every member and donor makes our voice stronger, our 13% messages more powerful, and our partnerships more meaningful. All of this together makes a granter more likely to fund us, a sponsor more likely to donate to us, and a potential partner more likely to work with us. And that will allow us to continue to do the work that is important to Mazamas—providing education opportunities, advocating for the protection of outdoor spaces, and building a thriving community for everyone who loves the mountains. Your donations and your membership truly do have an impact across the entire Mazama community. If you would like to know more about the impact of donations and how to give, please reach out!
MAZAMA FISCAL YEAR 2020 REVENUE STREAMS
Do 20%
Gr
11% 16%
18% 21%
13%
Me
Cla
Ac
Ot
Donations Grants Memberships Class Registration Activities Other Revenue
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 23
Mazama Basic Climbing education program
INFO NIGHT JANUARY 28 6:30–8 P.M. ZOOM Register at tinyurl.com/BCEPInfo2021
BCEP 2021 WILL RUN FROM MARCH 29–MAY 22 BCEP 2019. Photos: Teresa Dalsager
24 MAZAMAS
Have you wanted to climb our nearby mountains, but don’t know how to get started? Mt. Hood, St. Helens, Mt. Adams? Maybe others? The Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is for you! BCEP teaches the skills needed to climb snow covered peaks and outdoor rock—and introduces you to other people who also like to climb!
Since BCEP was canceled due to COVID-19 in 2020, we are thrilled to offer a modified version of BCEP in 2021.* The eight-week class includes weekly virtual lectures and team breakout sessions, field sessions, and conditioning hikes. The field sessions provide practical exposure to basic rock climbing and snow travel. You will learn and practice the basic technical skills needed to climb a glaciated peak as a climb team member. The course runs from March 29–May 22. Get full details at mazamas.org/BCEP. BCEP is very time intensive, so we highly recommend clearing your schedule as much as possible during the eight-weeks of the course. Hikes and field sessions are typically full day activities, and weekly lectures combined with team breakout sessions will be about three hours in length. It is anticipated that BCEP will be organized into teams of ten members, including six (6) students, a team leader and three assistant instructors. Additional “affinity” team options this year may be offered. You will have the opportunity to state a team preference on the application.
OVERVIEW OF SKILLS TAUGHT Basic Skills
Rock Climbing Snow Skills Skills
Proper Gear Usage
Outdoor Top-Roped Basic Glacier Travel Climbing
Fitness for Mountaineering
Traveling on a Fixed Self-Arrest with an Line Ice Axe
Map & Compass Navigation
Proper Communication & Signals
Weather Conditions Pappelling & Belaying
Understanding Avalanche Danger & Risks
SCHEDULE • BCEP 2021 will be held from late March until late May and includes 5 technical field sessions, 3–4 hikes, and 6 evening lectures over the course of 8 weeks. Additional sessions are commonly offered by individual team leaders. A mandatory skills assessment occurs on Saturday, May 22.
TIME COMMITMENT • High—BCEP is an intensive time commitment, and we highly recommend that you clear your schedule as much as possible during the duration of the course.
DURATION • Moderate—BCEP is an 8-week course, and consists of required and optional activities.
TUITION • 2021 tuition is $475 for Mazama members and $550 for nonmembers. Tuition includes a t-shirt and printed student manual. • If you have summited a glaciated peak, you may choose to join the Mazamas prior to BCEP info night and receive the reduced rate. Standard Mazama membership is $72/annually +$25 initiation fee when you join. • Scholarships and payment plans are available. See mazamas. org/bcep for details.
SKILLS TAUGHT • BCEP teaches basic mountaineering skills including rock climbing and snow climbing.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Go to mazamas.org/bcep for a comprehensive list of answers to questions you have.
Preparing for an Apline Climb
*BCEP will adhere to all current Mazama COVID-19 policies, as well as state and federal COVID guidelines. Priority will be given to participants accepted to the canceled BCEP 2020 course.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 25
DICK PUGH MEMORIAL ENDOWMENT An anonymous donor is giving the Mazamas $50,000 to establish the Dick Pugh Memorial Endowment. Dick Pugh joined the Mazamas 1972, and had a long tenure of service at the Mazamas. He was a climb leader and prolific climber. He served on the Executive Council, Climbing Committee, Research Committee, and dedicated himself to creating endowments for the Library, Conservation, and Research Committees. His dedication extended to
developing a long-term landscaping plan for the Mazama Mountaineering Center, including using only native plants. The intent of the endowment is to fund the Dick Pugh Memorial Lecture Series at either the Portland Alpine Fest or other high profile Mazama event. The endowment will be overseen by the Mazama Investment Committee and interest from the fund will fund speaker fees and travel expenses.
If you would like to contribute to the endowment fund please contact either Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director, or Laura Burger, Development Coordinator. Dick Pugh.
Mt. Hood from Horsethief Butte. Photo:Teresa Dalsager.
26 MAZAMAS
WE CLIMB HIGH VOLUME 2 IS ALMOST HERE!
We Climb High Volume 2
A chronology of the Mazamas 1965–2015
I
n 1965, to mark our organization’s 75th Anniversary, the Mazamas published John Scott’s We Climb High: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1894-1964. Scott spent over a year of his own time, reading, writing, and editing the 100-page work.
Today, the record of the next 50 Mazama years is nearing completion! Thirty Mazama members and staff have spent hundreds, if not thousands, of hours combing nearly a century’s worth of Mazama Bulletins, Annuals, and other documents to produce We Climb High Volume 2: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1965–2015. Chapters are ordered by year, and include other special topics, such as Jeff Thomas’ look back at the Mazama 1894 route up Mt. Hod.. We’re including excerpts from that chapter, and Jeff Litwak’s entry on 1998 in this month’s Bulletin, to whet your appetite for this historic volume.
FROM “1966” BY PETE BOAG
FROM “1894 MAZAMA ROUTE” BY JEFF THOMAS
“Women made another first in 1966: The first Powder Puffs climb of Mt. Hood on July 24. Although the first all-woman Mazama ascent of Mt. Hood occurred back in 1932, the Powder Puffs was somewhat different. The twenty-two participants, spurred by Dorothy Harrington, donned or otherwise carried with them “… gaudy jewelry, flowery hats, a lacy apron … ribbons and lace on ice axes, eyelash curlers, and packs full of goodies.” On the summit, they bestowed prizes for unusual costumes, placed an apple spice sachet in the registry box to mark the second allwoman ascent, and raised a Mazama flag that all the climbers had signed. Other firsts in 1966 included the first Executive CouncilCommittee Chairs’ Workshop, the first Grandparents Climb of Mt. Hood, and the first 10-year reunion for those who joined the Mazamas in a given year (1956). Additionally, members Lorraine Heller and Grace Houghton began organizing weekly Mazama dance lessons, advertised as both a way to have fun and condition oneself for the climbing season. They were a hit.”
“The history of climbing on the south side of Mt. Hood is long and complex, and the number of ways to reach the summit is even more complicated. In fact, the proximity of the possible variations a climber can take from inside the crater could almost be likened to a modern sport climbing crag, where clipping bolts on adjacent routes is often possible. The Mazamas have a history with three such variations that start from the Hogsback. From east to west (climber’s right to left), these routes are the Chute (paired with the Pearly Gates), an unnamed route, and the Old Chute. Note that the primary south side climbing route shifted between 1915 and the late 1940s, during which the Hogsback completely disappeared.1 The route again changed when, like magic, the Hogsback slowly reappeared in the 1950s. Climbers in the latter half of the 19th century were not in the habit of naming climbing routes, at least nothing published in news articles of the day. The 1880s were the first time any names other than Crater Rock appeared in print. There were two terms—the Devil’s Backbone and the Hogsback, that were more of a description of the prominent crater feature we know today than a proper name. By the 1890s, the term Hogsback had been adopted over Devil’s Backbone by simple popular use. Note that it is possible the name Devil’s Kitchen was derived from the alternate historical term. At any rate, the lack of specific route names on Mt. Hood’s south side carried through the 1910s.“ 1 This is not an exaggeration. Photos up until 1914 show a fully-formed Hogsback. By 1916, the Hogsback was gone. The disappearance was likely due to changes in regional temperatures. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 27
MAZAMA BYLAWS
PROPOSED AMENDMENTS
by Aimee Filimoehala, Mazama Vice President
T
he Mazama Executive Council endorses the following proposed amendments to the bylaws. Updating and modernizing the bylaws will allow the organization to attract many new like-minded members, to improve operational efficiency, and to take a definitive step toward increasing diversity and inclusivity in the Executive Council, which is critical for a modern council’s decision-making ability. Understanding the reasoning for these bylaw changes will be facilitated by a town hall meeting in early spring. A special election to vote on the bylaw changes will be held in early May 2021. We continue to look to our past for a foundation, while also reaching to the future as we aspire to challenge ourselves to be better. GLACIATED PEAK
According to our current bylaws, an individual must summit a glaciated peak to qualify for Mazama membership. The original intent of this requirement served to foster a sense of community and ensured that all Mazamas shared a love for the mountains. There has been an ongoing and genuine interest from nonmembers to become part of our member community while enjoying outdoor activities being offered through the Mazamas, including: ■ Hiking, backpacking, snowshoeing, and rambling ■ Rock climbing ■ Skiing (Nordic and Backcountry) ■ Canyoneering ■ Outings Removing the requirement of summiting a glaciated peak allows us to: ■ Remove a barrier to becoming a Mazama, which is in line with the council’s goal to make it easier for participants that share the values of the organization to actively participate in and contribute to the Mazama experience. ■ Directly support our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. ■ Advance efforts of inclusiveness and diversity in our organization regardless
28 MAZAMAS
of socioeconomic status, physical abilities, age, and outdoor interests. ■ Increase membership while improving both political presence and financial stability. Our identity is preserved through our behavior and established culture. Other well-established mountaineering organizations such as the American Alpine Club and The Mountaineers have no such requirement and are still considered climbing organizations by their members and the larger community. The Mazamas will continue to recognize climbing achievements through badges and awards, including: ■ Completing the Basic Education Climbing Program, ■ Completing the Intermediate Climbing School, ■ Completing Advanced Rock ■ Summiting a Glaciated Peak, ■ Summiting the Guardian Peaks ■ Summiting the Seven Oregon Peaks ■ Summiting the 16 Northwest Peaks
OPERATIONS Recent unpredictable and unavoidable events have highlighted limitations in conducting day-to-day business given our existing bylaws. In order to improve our ability to comply with bylaws while operating effectively, the Executive Council is recommending we separate some of the
day to day operational structure currently dictated in the bylaws into a separate operations document. Recommended changes to the bylaws will: ■ Change the name of the Executive Council to the Board of Directors (Board), and its members will be board members or directors; ■ Allow board communication by electronic means according to Oregon law as needed; ■ Remove the requirement for two authorized signers for all financial transactions and allow the Executive Director or an authorized officer to sign for expenses up to $1,000; ■ Move the creation and management of committees to conduct essential work to an operations document.
BOARD MAKE-UP The existing Mazama Bylaws require board members to be a Mazama member in good standing for at least three years. A recommendation to emphasize skillset, applicable experiences, and diverse backgrounds vs. length of time within the organization is being made. The practical needs of our organization require knowledge and proficiency in specialized areas such as fundraising, accounting, and law, to name a few. With the current requirements, we have severely limited
our ability to find and recruit the talent that is needed for our board. If we remove these requirements and instead place value on experience vs. length of time with the Mazamas, we will be able to recruit highly skilled board candidates and improve confidence in our members that we are operating in their and the community’s best interests. ■ Recommended changes to the board make-up include: ■ Removal of the requirement for three years of continuous Mazama
membership to run for the board. These nine board members will still need to be voted in by the membership. ■ Three additional board members, who need not be Mazama members, will be appointed by the nine board members for their special skills or experiences, including their connections in the broader non-Mazama community, and they will share the same voting rights and responsibilities. Appointments will be made for three-year terms with the exception of the initial appointments.
To stagger vacancies and to provide continuity, the initial appointments will be: first appointee for 1 year; second appointee for 2 years and third appointee for three years. Keep an eye out for the official voter guide in the March/April Bulletin. We will be holding a virtual town hall meeting on Wednesday, March 24, 2021 to discuss the proposed bylaw amendments.
MAZAMA LODGE
ARE YOU INTERESTED IN HELPING OUR LODGE NAVIGATE THE TIMES? by Brook Harris
D
uring our closure, we are looking to our membership to inspire the next chapter for the Lodge. If you are interested in sharing your ideas, join the Mazama Lodge Task Force! This short-term project will meet to help find new ideas to help our Lodge be successful in 2021 and beyond. If you are interested in joining the task force, please send your interest to lodgecommittee@mazamas.org.
Mazama Lodge. Photo: Ralph Daub JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 29
EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES (Executive Council) DATE: NOVEMBER 17, 2020 ON ZOOM by Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary ATTENDING: Joe Eberhardt, President; Aimee Filimoehala, Vice President; Rick Amodeo, Treasurer; Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary; Jesse Applegate, Reena Clements, Lori Coyner, Judith Baker, Bob Breivogel, Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director; Laura Burger, Development Coordinator. WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER ■ The meeting was called to order at 4:06 p.m. by President Joe Eberhardt. Joe noted a quorum was present. REVIEW & APPROVAL OF THE MINUTES Joe Eberhardt asked for approval of October meeting minutes. Minutes were approved by consensus of the board. EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT ■ Sarah Bradham gave an overview of the updated membership and financial dashboards from her report. She noted that since we received the financials earlier the Executive Council (EC) will see some errors that are usually reconciled before the meetings. She also noted that this is the first year Mazamas has done a monthly budget and explained there will be some volatility that will even out over the year. ■ Sarah attended a meeting with Congressman Earl Blumenauer on Friday with other outdoor recreation groups to discuss potential expansion of wilderness areas as well as a transportation plan. ■ Sarah discussed the new Governor’s restrictions and noted that they do not affect Mazamas activities. Mazamas may continue hikes and climbs while following protocol. ■ Prorated dues proposal. We have a decline in membership between April and July, prorated dues could encourage people to join during that time. This would require an update to our database system as well as our website. Aimee asked about the addition of an auto renew option, and Joe expressed concern about losing donors without contacting them for a renewal. Joe was also concerned that people may wait until dues are prorated to renew at all. Sarah 30 MAZAMAS
recommended the discussion is tabled for now and come back in December with a recrafted plan for how proration could operate. EXECUTIVE COUNCIL & PRESIDENT PRIORITIES ■ Bob Breivogel suggested that Mazamas reinstate the EC committee liaison model to connect more with committees and members. Sarah noted that this model was stopped five years ago because of the time investment and got EC members too deeply involved in committed logistics. Aimee and Joe were supportive of the idea to increase connectivity and involvement with committees. Jesse Applegate and Amanda requested more clarity on what the liaison role would entail. Amanda wanted to avoid getting bogged down in detailed committee work and stay high level. Jesse pointed out that details are important to the member experience. Bob stated that Mazamas used to have minimal staff, and EC involvement could save costs. He also noted committee communication feels one sided and comes through staff and if major changes are happening it may be useful to have an EC contact for them. Joe suggested the EC might be too much on the advisory side and wanted to move more towards a hybrid working board model. Aimee suggested this could be a relationship building opportunity to put a face to EC. ■ Bob and Rick offered to write a potential liaison job description and identify up to nine committees that would be candidates to receive liaison roles for the year. EDUCATION COVID UPDATE ■ Sarah stated that Claire Nelson is working with the Education committee on digitization and virtual programs. ■ Claire is making a plan for committees to work together to deliver content and make it clear prior to student registration. REVENUE AND COST MODELS ■ Sarah gave an overviewing of the budgets and registration prices for major classes over the past few years.
■ Goal is to set the class price at a good value while covering actual expenses and provide scholarships to keep it affordable. ■ Sarah discussed why a flat 20 percent overhead fee across all programs doesn’t accurately reflect each class cost. ■ Joe noted that we have drastically reduced expenses in the past year and we may have to raise revenue. BYLAWS UPDATE ■ Aimee gave a brief update on the subcommittee and its activities. The first article about bylaws update will run in the Jan/Feb Bulletin and then a voter’s pamphlet will run in the Mar/ Apr Bulletin. A town hall meeting is scheduled on Mar. 24 They are also scheduling the actual election day in the first week of May and an FAQ document. ■ Jesse requested a document to track changes of bylaws edits. Judith Baker will have a redline draft for review at the December meeting. CULTURE OF GIVING ■ Joe stated that the next EC Fundraising committee meeting will be in December, yet to be scheduled. Lori Coyner will chair the committee. ■ The focus for the next six months will be a sustaining member campaign as opposed to a more transactional membership campaign. ■ Later in the year EC may lead a giving campaign as well. ■ Sarah noted that EC members will likely be asked to make more membership phone calls. ■ The year end appeal will go out in early December and an infographic about ways to give will start being published in multiple places throughout the year. Council meeting was adjourned at 6:10 p.m.
Support the Mazamas and Help Us Inspire Everyone to Love and Protect the Mountains! RECURRING GIFTS Donate monthly, quarterly, or annually with an automa�c recurring dona�on. Click “make this a monthly recurring dona�on” when giving online, or contact us directly to set up a custom giving plan.
ONE-TIME GIFTS Donate at any �me through our website, or mail a dona�on to the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.
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EMPLOYER MATCHING GIFTS Make your dona�on or volunteer hours go further with help from your workplace! Employers like Apple, Microso�, and many others will match your dona�on or volunteer hours with a dona�on directly to the Mazamas.
PLANNED GIVING Gi�s of stock, IRA distribu�ons, and charitable gi� annui�es can all create a las�ng impact at Mazamas while giving you important financial benefits as well.
ESTATE GIFTS Estate gi�s create a las�ng legacy for you and opportuni�es for future genera�ons of Mazamas. If your estate plan already includes the Mazamas, please let us know so we can make sure it will be used as you envision it. Thank you!
Reach out to Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, for more informa�on about any of these op�ons and to help you create a personalized plan. laura@mazamas.org · 971-420-2505 · www.mazamas.org/DONATE
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 31
MazamasÂŽ 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org
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Pragya and Sanman Tikku, on Mt. Hood. Photo by: Pragya Tikku.