2021 May/June Mazama Bulletin

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MAZAMA BULLETIN

Volume 103

Number 3

March & April 2021

IN THIS ISSUE

Upcoming Activities & Events, p. 6

Mazama Outings, p. 6

Successful Climbers, p. 6

Employment Opportunities, p. 7

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7

What’s Happening Around the Mazamas, p. 8

Historical Collection Prints, p. 9

Back in Action with BCEP, p. 10

How Well Do You Know Your Wildflowers? p. 12

A Wild First Day for the Central Cascades Permits, p. 13

Mazama Climate Strategy, p. 14

Crabtree Valley, p. 15

Mazama Trail Trips, p. 18

Mazama Classics, p. 18

Mazama Membership, p. 19

Interview with Juan Rodriguez, p. 20

Trail Tending by the Mazamas, p. 22

Mazama Trail, p. 24

Statement in Support of our AAPI Community, p. 26

Bushwhacking at Catherine Creek, p. 27

Can We Use Less Chalk?, p. 28

Obituaries, p. 29

Bylaws Update, p. 30

We’re Climbing Again, p. 32

Wildflower Answers, p. 33

Executive Board Minutes, p. 34

CONTACT US

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215

Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org

Hours: Currently CLOSED to public access

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 | Hours: CLOSED to public access.

Publications Team Editors: Sarah Bradham, Bulletin Editor; Mathew Brock, Layout Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Members: Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF

SARAH BRADHAM, Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org

MATHEW BROCK

Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

LAURA BURGER

Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org

CLAIRE NELSON Education & Culture Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org

KELSEY SHAW

Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bimonthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Cover: Tracie Weitzman at Smith Rock. Photo by Ryan Johnson.

Above: Jason Kappel on the summit of North Sister, Sept. 14, 2019.

VOLUNTEERS: THE BACKBONE OF THE MAZAMAS

by Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director

This past weekend we were treated to summer-like weather with blue skies, sunshine, and 80 degree temperatures. Everyone over the age of 16 now has the opportunity to get the COVID-19 vaccine. While rates of COVID infection are still rising, as more people get vaccinated we are likely to see the rates start to go down. At this time we have 59 climbs on the Mazama climb schedule for the summer, with more being added every day. The Basic Climbing Education Program is out in force with BCEP cohorts on the trails gaining endurance and practicing new skills, and out at Horsethief Butte, and Timberline and White River. The MMC is starting to hum again (albeit a little more quietly than usual) with BCEP students, canyoneering leader training, Hike Leader First Aid, and WFA classes. We are working on a phased reopening plan for the Mazama Lodge, and looking forward to once again welcoming people to our home on the mountain.

Watching us get back to what we do best is rejuvenating. It reignites my love and excitement about what the Mazamas can and does do for our community. We lead eager climbers to the summit of their first snow-capped peaks, coach them through their first rappels, and watch them spend their first night in a tent high above treeline where dehydrated meals actually taste like fare from a four star restaurant. We take hikers on trails and explore far flung places, discover the first signs of spring wildflowers, and bask in the glory of old growth forests. Mazamas share their time and expertise to teach new climbers the basics of climbing along with advanced skills. We dedicate ourselves to trail maintenance and provide grants for expeditions in far off (and close in) locations. All of this to further our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains.

Volunteering your time with the Mazamas is fun and rewarding, but it is also time consuming and can involve a significant amount of work. It takes planning to organize your lesson plans for a successful rock field session, to review hiking books and find a new out-of-the-way hike, and to plan and execute a multi-day climb or outing. Why do our volunteers give of their time so freely year after year,

and why are new volunteers so excited to pitch in that it is hard to find roles for some of them?

There are a variety of different answers out there and they are as varied as our volunteers—but the commonality among all of them is a desire to give back to their community.

Most of the people who volunteer with the Mazamas have participated in one of our programs—a hike, a climb, an education program—and they want to share that experience with someone else. There is nothing quite like watching someone experience their firsts in the mountains. Whether someone is nervous or a natural, as a volunteer you get the opportunity to coach, to mentor, to lead, and watch the smile come across someone’s face as they push their own mental and physical boundaries and do something that they might not have been sure was possible.

It is these experiences that keep our members and volunteers coming back for more, and it is what attracts new people to the Mazamas. The excitement of the high mountain places and for our love of the trails comes through in photos and tales shared around the campfire or on social media.

I write this at the start of National Volunteer’s week and I want to take this opportunity to thank all of our volunteers—long and short term (and yet to be!)—for dedicating their time, expertise, motivation, and encouragement to the Mazamas. It is our volunteers who create the smiles, the stories, the photos, and the experiences that truly make the Mazamas a special and vibrant part of our community. I thank you for keeping the Mazama mission alive and for providing learning experiences and activities in the mountains.

We couldn’t do it without you!

SHARE YOUR VACCINATION STORY

As of April 19, 2021, all Oregonians became eligible for a COVID-19 vaccination. Do you have a vaccination story you’d like to share? We’d love to hear it and include your story in the next edition of the Bulletin! Have you gotten your vaccination yet? When? Which vaccine? What's the first thing you did after your full vaccination protection kicked in? What were (or are) you most looking forward to doing post-vaccination? Share whatever you’d like, and photos are welcome. Submit your story here tinyurl.com/MazamaBulletin.

UPDATES FROM OUR PARTNER ORGANIZATIONS

PORTLAND MOUNTAIN RESCUE (PMR)

PMR is dedicated to saving lives through rescue and mountain safety education. Are you an experienced mountaineer, with a passion for helping others and contributing to a dynamic team? Interested in the rewarding volunteer work of search and rescue? Consider joining our team! PMR is currently accepting applications through June 1, 2021 for the 2021 Trainee class, a two-year training academy starting in September. Applications and more information are available at pmru.org/about-pmr/applications. Look out for additional zoom info sessions for Q&A on the application process, coming this spring. In the meantime, questions can also be directed towards info@pmru. org.

MOUNT ST. HELENS INSTITUTE

Do you love to hike or climb on Mount St. Helens? The Mount St. Helens Institute is recruiting new Mountain Steward volunteers for the 2021 season! Mountain Stewards support hikers and climbers on popular trails around the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, helping to create safe, fun, and educational experiences for all adventurers. Volunteers are asked to serve at least 6 days through the summer and fall. New Volunteer Orientations will be held in May.

More info on their website: mshinstitute.org/volunteer/overview

JOIN THE MAZAMAS

ARE YOU READY TO BECOME A MAZAMA MEMBER? IF YOU HAVE SUMMITTED A GLACIATED PEAK AT ANY TIME IN YOUR LIFE, YOU ARE READY! GO TO MAZAMAS. ORG/JOIN AND SIGN UP.

EDUCATION ADVOCACY COMMUNITY BUILDING

What does it mean to join the Mazamas? As a member, you are part of one of the most respected mountaineering and outdoor organizations in the country. Our members are passionate outdoor individuals who are dedicated to our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. The Mazamas and its members work towards our mission through education, advocacy, and community building.

AS A MEMBER YOU WILL:

• Meet new friends who share your love of the outdoors.

• Contribute towards scholarships to get underserved populations outdoors.

• Enjoy discounted rates on Mazama activities and discounts at local outdoor retailers and gyms.

• Receive our bi-monthly Mazama Bulletin magazine.

• Join the American Alpine Club (AAC) at a reduced rate (once you join you will receive a code to use on the AAC website).

• Gain full access to the world-class 5,000-volume Mazama Mountaineering Library.

• Receive free rescue insurance anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters and up to $10,000 ($5,000 with Mazama membership; $10,000 with joint AAC membership).

• Volunteer! You can join our team and lead trips, classes, and other activities.

UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS

HIKE LEADER APPRECIATION

JUNE 3 | 6:30 P.M. | ZOOM

Hike Leaders, Save the Date! Mazama Hike Leaders are invited to the first ever virtual Hike Leader Appreciation Night. Mark your calendars today and expect more details in the weekly eNews..

WILDERNESS FIRST AID (WFA)

JUNE 5 | 8 A.M. | ZOOM & MMC

The Mazamas is partnering with Base Medical to offer Wilderness First Aid (WFA) classes. WFA is a hybrid course consisting of:

■ 8 hours of online work

■ 4–6 hours of self-directed skills practice at home to prepare for the practical

■ An in-person practical session

■ An online final exam passed with a score of 80% or higher within seven days of completing the practical portion of the course

*Please note the online course work must be completed 48 hours prior to the practical session to attend and pass the class. (No reschedules or exceptions can be accommodated).

You will receive an email with a link to the online coursework by May 13. The practical portion of the course will be held at the MMC from 8 a.m.–5 p.m. on June 5. More information about the practical course will be sent via email closer to the course date.

Prerequisite: Laptop or desktop computer

Registration opens April 27. Register: tinyurl.com/JuneWFA

Please email questions to wfaregistrar@mazamas.org

DICK & JANE MILLER’S JULY 4TH POTLUCK

TENTATIVE: JULY 3 | 12:30 P.M.

Longtime Mazamas Dick and Jane Miller are hosting their annual mid-summer potluck celebration and you’re invited! If you’ve never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided. Also provided will be plates, cups, forks, knives and spoons. Plan to arrive at 12:30 p.m. and eat at 1 p.m. Attendees must be fully vaccinated for COVID-19.

MAZAMA USED EQUIPMENT SALE (UES)

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER

As the number of COVID-19 cases drop and more and more people are vaccinated, we are hopeful to host our used equipment sale sometime in the late summer or early fall. Watch the weekly eNews and the Bulletin for updates.

MAZAMA OUTING

WASHINGTON OLYMPICS–NE LOOP BACKPACK

JULY 11–17

REGISTRATION OPENS: MAY 3

Join Mazama leader Rex Breunsbach, for 5 days and 4 nights on trails in the beautiful and unique Olympic National Forest, with an optional side trip without backpacks up to view Hayden Pass. Hikers will cross Gray Wolf Pass, Lost Pass, and beautiful Cameron Pass on their way.

This is a strenuous backpack. Please make sure that you have experience on previous strenuous backpacks and are in shape for the distance and elevation gain. Lighter packs are advised. Our pace will be slow to moderate.

Cost, excluding travel and food, is estimated to be a maximum of $90 for members $140 for nonmembers (deposit: Members $50, Nonmembers $100).

SUPPORT THE MAZAMAS

AmazonSmile is a simple way for you to support the Mazamas every time you shop, at no cost to you. When you shop at smile.amazon.com, Amazon will donate a portion of the purchase price to the Mazamas.

Be sure to select Mazamas as your charity of choice.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

Thank you to our climb leaders for taking on the challenge of leading climbs during the COVID-19 pandemic, and getting folks out into the mountains for some much needed fun!

March 13: Mt. Hood, South Side. Trey Schutrumpf, Leader. Long Ong, Assistant. Lindsey Addison, Defne Cakin, Jack Kuo, Lacey Jones, Nick Ostini, Lauren Saxton.

March 26: Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Rico Micallef, Leader. Ian McCluskey, Assistant. Erin Courtney, Jonathan Doman, Charlie Hugo, Tiffany Lyn McClean, Thomas Williams.

April 19: Mt. Hood, South Side. Julie Kentosh, Leader. Sándor Lau, Assistant. Melanie Bower, Kevin Kohberger, Brendan Scanlan.

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES

mazamas.org/joinourteam

MAZAMA WILD DAY CAMP

Mazama Wild is hiring! Positions are open for both full-time seasonal camp counselors, and well as paid internships. Come join a fun and and rewarding team experience this summer! We are hoping to fill positions as soon as possible.

» Mazama Wild Day Camp Counselor

» Mazama Wild Day Camp Paid Internship

Apply: https://mazamas.org/joinourteam/

OPPORTUNITIES

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

The Bulletin is enjoyable to read, but it’s even better to be a part of the team that makes it happen each month! We are looking for editors, writers, and lovers of grammar to join our team. Inquire at publications@mazamas.org

MAZAMA WILD BELAY VOLUNTEERS

We’re looking for belay volunteers, check out our calendar and sign up here: tinyurl.com/2021MazWildVolunteer

SHORT TERM VOLUNTEER PROJECTS

None of the above suit your fancy (or availability)? We’ve got a plethora of small volunteer projects that we need help with! Learn more and sign up at tinyurl.com/MazShort

CANYONEERING COURSE

REGISTRATION OPENS JULY 6

Canyoneering (or “canyoning”) is the sport of exploring canyons using a variety of techniques such as scrambling, climbing, rappelling, wading, and swimming. The term usually refers to the descent of technical canyons requiring ropes, harnesses, and other specialized gear. Like mountain peaks, canyons vary widely in level of difficulty–ranging from the easy hike-through variety to the extremely technical. Dry canyons are generally easier in terms of rigging and preparation compared to those which contain flowing water. The more water that is present, the more difficult the canyon.

Canyoneering is practiced all over the world, although most well known in Europe and the United States. It is a sport that is rapidly growing in popularity. In North America, most people associate canyoneering with the famous slot canyons of the Colorado Plateau, although it is also being practiced in the Rocky Mountains, the Sierras, Arizona, British Columbia, Mexico, Hawaii, and here in the Cascades. With one of the greatest concentrations of waterfalls in the world, canyoneering is a natural fit for the Pacific Northwest.

■ Prerequisites: This is not a class for beginners. The ideal applicant will have taken Intermediate Climb School (ICS) or have equivalent training/experience. Participants must be able to build an anchor and safely execute a basic rappel without supervision. The ideal participant will be familiar with the basic principles of anchor building, belaying, common knots, rope management, wilderness navigation, first aid, and be a competent swimmer. Some canyons require rugged off-trail approaches and bushwacking.

■ Schedule: Students will attend five lectures and two field sessions. Lectures will introduce participants to planning a canyon trip with a discussion of gear, water protection, ethics, hazards, and good practices. Students will be introduced to Single Rope Technique (SRT), the concept of setting the length, rope blocks, releasable rigging, and more.

■ Lectures: August 12, 19, 26, September 2, 9

■ Field Sessions: dates are to be determined.

■ Location: Virtual, Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), and local creeks

■ Tuition: $270 members/$320 nonmembers

■ Full Details: mazamas.org/canyoneering

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND THE MAZAMAS

THANK YOU MAZAMA VOLUNTEERS.

The past year has been challenging, and volunteers rose to meet those challenges, offering a variety of virtual trainings, holding virtual meetings, and planning how to deliver classes in a new way.

In the past month our Backcountry Skiing team held their first-ever fully virtual course, the Intermediate Climbing School team piloted a new Crevasse Rescue & Snow Anchor Mini-Course, the Advanced Rock team piloted a Crack Climbing Clinic and Gear Placement & Anchor Building Mini-Course, and our First Aid team hosted their eighth WFA course. Not to mention, BCEP 2021 got underway with 108 students on 17 teams, in cohorts of 6 students and 4 instructors. The Research time finished evaluating Research Grant proposals and is getting ready to distribute $18,000 in grants, and the Conservation and Expedition Committees are currently in the review process. And we know this list is not exhaustive! There are many volunteers whose hard work flies under the radar or whose efforts have yet to come to fruition.

It is exciting to have the MMC in use again and to see photos of students and volunteers learning, hiking, and exploring in the outdoor spaces we hold dear. None of this would be possible without our dedicated and innovative volunteers.

OUTINGS COMMITTEE:

The committee recently surveyed the membership and is in the process of analyzing the data. The committee approved Rex Breunsbach’s outing to the Olympics (see page 6).

CLASSICS:

The committee is hoping that Covid 19 protocols will ease enough to allow the annual July 4th picnic at Dick Miller’s place.

SKI MOUNTAINEERING:

The committee successfully offered a fully online class this year due to COVID pandemic.

FIRST AID:

The June WFA course is planned for 20 students. The November WFA course and MFA course are planned for 40 students each (locations TBD).

BCEP SUBCOMMITTEE:

BCEP 2021 began on March 29 with 17 teams operating in small cohorts of 6 students and 4 instructors. Final testing will be done by team leaders with their teams to avoid crosscontamination of the class cohorts.

PUBLICATION COMMITTEE:

The committee welcomed Ryan Reed as a new member. The committee respectfully requests that all committees submit their monthly reports so we can be more consistent in informing on what is going on around the Mazamas.

RESEARCH COMMITTEE:

The committee successfully held two online seminars with good attendance.

NORDIC:

The committee welcomed Freda Sherburne as the new chair, Andrea Ogston, the outgoing chair, will remain on the committee.

CANYONEERING COMMITTEE:

The committee recently ran the first of two refresher training courses for leaders, one at Horsethief Butte and the other at the MMC.

CLIMBING COMMITTEE:

The committee completed two leader update sessions with approximately 80 leaders attending.

HISTORICAL COLLECTION PRINTS NOW ON SALE!

Are you looking for new artwork for your walls? Looking for a unique gift for a climbing friend or loved one? Do you want to jump start your holiday shopping?

The Mazama Library and Historical Collection recently launched an online storefront where you can buy reprints of images from our collection. Prints are available in three sizes, are printed on archival paper, and proceeds help support the Mazama Library.

Order today at tinyurl.com/LHCimages

Back in Action with BCEP

Karen Graves’ Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) team on a conditioning hike up Hardy Ridge, Easter Sunday, 2021.

All photos by Teresa Dalsager.

Karen Graves’ BCEP team during belay and rappel practice, Mazama Mountaineering Center, 2021.

All photos by Teresa Dalsage.r

HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW YOUR WILDFLOWERS?

Answeres and photo credits on page 33

A WILD FIRST DAY FOR CENTRAL CASCADES PERMITS

by David Rempel

As reported in the March/April Mazamas Bulletin (p. 20), April 6 at 7 a.m., began the first phase of the new United States Forest Service’s (USFS) process for obtaining permits to hike in Oregon’s Central Cascades (covering Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington and Three Sisters Wilderness Areas access). In less than five-minutes we witnessed the best dates on the most popular trails snapped up by the quickest and most skilled permit getters.

PROLOGUE:

First, there was a problem that could no longer be ignored in our Central Cascades wilderness areas—overuse. Second, the USFS was tasked with solving the problem. And over the past 3–4 years they have engaged in a great deal of fact-finding and public testimony leading to our new permit system. Third, acquiring permits to hike/climb in the Pacific Northwest is not new, many of us have done it for years in controlled areas like the Enchantments, Mount St. Helens summit, Pamelia Lake (Mt. Jefferson summit access), and the Obsidian Trail (North & Middle Sister summit access). Fourth—AND MOST IMPORTANT—April 6 was only Phase 1, with half or more of the total permits still to be issued (for this summer)—more about Phase 2 later.

VOICES ON THEIR APRIL 6 EXPERIENCES:

As most of you have already heard, the April 6 (Phase 1) permit process ran the gamut from those who got their desired permits to those expressing frustration and disbelief for those who saw permits for prime dates on some of the most popular trailheads disappear by 7:04

a.m.! Some characterized the process as efficient and fair while others a fiasco and failed experiment—with some suggesting going to a lottery system in the future, like Yosemite (Fun Fact: The odds of getting a Half Dome climb lottery permit are about 7 percent for a weekday date and 2 percent for a weekend date).

USFS and recreation.gov help desk personnel reported a busy day of answering questions but not too negative. The biggest concern prior to April 6 being whether the volume at 7 a.m. would crash recreation. gov. Statistically, the first day of Central Cascade permits accounted for half of all permits purchased on recreation.gov for the day. Anecdotally, their impression was that it favored the experienced.

MORE ABOUT PHASE 2—THE WEEKLY PERMIT PROCESS:

Folks wanting to access a trailhead (trail) will soon be able to apply for remaining permits one week in advance. This process begins May 21 at 7 a.m. (Pacific Daylight time) for a May 28 hike and will continue through September 24, 2021, the final day permits are required. In Phase 1, only 40 percent of the overnightuse permits, and 20 to 50 percent of

the day-use permits (depending on the wilderness area) were allocated. This means the Phase 2 process will allocate the rest.

STRATEGIES FOR FUTURE SUCCESS:

1. Know the system. Overnight-use permits are required for all 79 wilderness area trailheads and yet, only 19 trailheads for day-use permits—and note that it is trailhead-based (i.e., not trail-based). And so, losing out on the most popular trailhead may mean access from a less popular adjoining trailhead (usually a longer walk, but still an access to the trail). Note also that you are not locked into entering and exiting from the same trailhead—you must enter on day-1 of your permit from the trailhead permit you received, but can exit via another (e.g., Marion Lake Trailhead and trail interconnect with the Eight Lakes Basin and PCT/Jack Lake area—two other popular destinations).

2. Use the friends and family plan. If you want to procure permits for more than one trailhead this summer, split the assignments with your intended hiking buddies (and keep in mind, recreation.

continued on next page

Above: Maxwell Buttee looking northeast. Photo by David Rempel.

Permits, continued from previous page

gov allows a permit seeker to list themselves as the hike leader, but also up to two co-leaders).

3. Do your homework before the big moment. Pre-register with recreation.gov and practice logging on. Get online before 7 a.m. and refresh your screen until the 7 a.m. release moment. And, know your hike/hiker details so you can call an audible if necessary.

4. Don’t give up. People turn permits back into the system at random times, keep a lookout for them.

A DEEPER LOOK AT DETAILS:

Permit Costs:

■ Overnight-Use Permit Cost: $6 processing fee (nonrefundable) and covers up to 12 people for up to 14 continuous days.

■ Day-Use Permits: The 19 trailheads requiring day-use permits, and are as follows:

▷ Mt. Jefferson Wilderness Area: PCT-Breitenbush/ Breitenbush Lake, South Breitenbush, Whitewater, Pamelia Lake, Marion Lake, Duffy Lake and Jack Lake

▷ Mt. Washington Wilderness Area: PCT-McKenzie Pass and Benson/Tenas

▷ Three Sisters Wilderness Area: Scott, Obsidian, Sisters Mirror, Devils Lake/Wickiup, Green Lake/ Soda Creek, Todd Lake, Crater Ditch, Broken Top, Tam McArthur Rim, and Lava Camp

■ Day-Use Permit Cost: $1 per person processing fee (nonrefundable).

Permit Access & Help:

■ Permits may be purchased online through recreation.gov or by calling 1-877-444-6777—this number provides access to their help desk as well.

■ USFS help desks are at Detroit Ranger Station (Willamette NF) and Bend-Ft. Rock Ranger Station.

Also Keep in Mind:

■ NW Forest Pass/Daily Permit will still be required, in addition to permits/reservations, at designated trailheads.

■ Recycle: Please cancel any early permits not needed, so others can get access to them.

EPILOGUE:

For those of us who choose to live in the Pacific Northwest, the Cascades are an integral part of our total environmental consciousness, and for those of us among the growing number of outdoors enthusiasts, they are a treasure—a place we both love and feel a responsibility to protect and preserve for future generations. As our population continues to grow so does the need to make changes. And we’ve all been there. A first-time permit seeker/ first-fail can leave a mark on our psyche, just like a pop quiz or driving test. Hopefully the information here and more experience will provide a sharper skill-set for future success. See you on the trail.

David Rempel is the Mazamas Trail Trips Committee Chair. He can be reached at trailtrips@mazamas.org.

THE MAZAMAS MOVE AHEAD WITH CLIMATE STRATEGY POSITION

by John Rettig

Although Earth Day 2021 fell on a date that dictated it again be commemorated as a virtual event, the Mazamas has not been idle in this area. In January, the Executive Council approved our Climate Strategy, to wit:

The Mazamas recognizes that we are in the midst of a global climate emergency, and we are committed to working for solutions. Climate change is already impacting the Northwest’s people, economy, and the wild places where we hike and climb.

As scientists have forecast and Mazamas are witnessing, exposed glaciers on Cascade peaks are quickly receding and at risk of disappearing, and the frequency and severity of wildfires are increasing.

Our commitment:

■ We will strive to address the root causes of climate change, such as carbon emissions, deforestation, and inappropriate management of public lands, through political advocacy and scientific research.

■ We will develop resources to keep our own organization climate positive, offering sustainable choices for members as they plan trips and expeditions.

■ We will continue efforts to offset the carbon footprint of our facilities.

■ We will continue to offer our members resources to be individually climate positive.

■ By acting locally and thinking globally, we make the commitment to being part of the solution.

And to follow that up, in March the Mazamas adopted a formal execution strategy on the climate crisis, acknowledging the threat of climate crisis and clarifying how the organization plans to respond. The strategy will continue the work of bringing the organization to carbon neutrality, will help provide members resources to reduce their own carbon footprint, and will commit the organization to advocating for the legislative solutions needed to address climate change.

The Conservation Committee is in the process of kicking off several initiatives that support this strategy and is looking for volunteers who are interested in taking part. If you’re interested in volunteering or have questions about the strategy, please reach out to us at conservation@mazamas.org.

With COVID resrictions being put to rest sometime in the near future, we’ll soon be taking this strategy into real actions, including feet-on-the-street activities. The Committee will provide periodic updates on the progress fulfilling the strategy as well as upcoming opportunities to get involved, so stay tuned.

CRABTREE VALLEY

by Tom Bode

Idrove all morning, watching the fall weather worsen. When I parked, it was snowing. The unexpected flakes were a visual delight, turning white the browns and greens of the dark forest. They also melted onto my jeans, telling me that my visit would have to be brief. I was headed to Crabtree Valley, deep in the foothills of the Cascades, where winding logging roads stitch together patches of clear-cut forest. I parked where the road simply ended at a concrete barrier, the sort of place where seeing another car would be surprising. I was here to look for evidence of an old political fight. Oregonians felled just about every tree they could find in the twentieth century, but forty years ago, a young woman fought to save a grove of ancient trees here at Crabtree. I had come to see what she had fought for, and if she had won.

I knew better than to wear jeans this late in the season “cotton kills,” they say, because it won’t keep you warm when wet—but I had done so anyway. My nylon rain pants would only delay being cold and wet. My dog Luna was with me, but the snow in the empty forest made me feel alone. Although I had just started hiking, I was already three hours into this trip, and the ridiculousness of driving so far just to see Douglas Fir trees—which grow in my backyard—crossed my mind. But, not all trees are the same.

My fascination was not unusual; reverence is an ordinary human perspective towards tall and serious trees. People probably had been gaping in this grove for a thousand years. But in 1952, Crabtree Valley became the property of a logging company called Willamette Industries. It aimed to make a lot of two-by-fours out of these trees, some of the oldest and biggest Doug Firs in the state, and in the 1970s began logging the area. Willamette Industries measured the value of the valley in dollars and wanted to cash in.

Cameron La Follette tried to stop them. In 1977, she was a student at Reed College, fresh from Phoenix, whose young eyes saw what others’ did not. During a school break, she hitchhiked to the Olympic Peninsula. The profusion of greenery and the unreal dampness of the massive trees changed her. Olympic National Park had been spared from logging by motivated and farsighted individuals, and they inspired La Follette. Back in Oregon, she

learned of Crabtree, and the magnificence of the trees moved her to fight for them.

Today, Luna and I were just reaching the shore of Crabtree Lake. With no big trees yet in sight, the view was already idyllic: fresh snow outlined dark firs, big leaf maples glowed yellow, and the still water inverted the world and sky. The biggest trees at Crabtree are named after ancient Egyptian royalty. The tree King Tut, like the boy king himself, is not fully intact, having lost its crown years ago. But Nefertiti still has her top and is one of the tallest trees in the valley, although at 270 feet tall she would tuck easily inside the Great Pyramid at Giza. She was my destination today. The guidebook map showed an informal path leading to Nefertiti. And, we did find a faint trail leading away from the lake, into the forest. Luna ran up it, and I followed.

The trail went nearly straight up the steep valley wall. A constructed trail is easy to follow—it is shaped by shovels, so that even when overgrown, the grade of the ground reveals the path. But this informal trail was the work of boots: we followed the signs of disturbed groundcover or trampled rotten logs. I categorized the growth as we walked: mountain hemlock saplings growing on a fallen cedar tree, dark-leaved huckleberry, sword ferns.

When La Follette first visited this place, she felt the sharp threat of logging. An earlier effort to protect Crabtree had

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Above: Crabtree Valley. Photo by Tom Bode.

Crabtree, continued from previous page

failed, and chainsaws roared at the edges of the valley, turning trees into lumber and putting money in the pockets of loggers. Newspaper clippings tell how young La Follette took up the cause and with others formed the Crabtree Valley Protection Association to lobby the Oregon Legislature. She proposed trading state-owned forest land to Willamette Industries in exchange for Crabtree Valley, which would become a state park. La Follette became the scrappy association’s chief lobbyist and spokesperson. Opposing her was Linn County, which would lose tax revenue if productive timberland became a preserve. County officials told legislators that local schools needed money and local loggers needed jobs. La Follette left Reed for the cause, a twenty-one-year-old woman spending her days testifying in smokey rooms of old men. She faced an uphill path: logging had powered the Beaver State’s economy for a century. But by 1979, the political tide was turning towards environmentalism. The Legislature passed a compromise bill punting the final decision on Crabtree to 1981. La Follette was nearing the summit of success.

Luna and I also continued up our steep hill, breathing the clean damp air, until the trail apparently ended. We stood on a hillside amidst undergrowth of tall rhododendrons, the unseen lake far below us. It was a beautiful forest, dense with wet life, growing and rotting, but there were no giants here. The snow silenced everything. I was unsure of where to go. Luna sat down and looked at me. “When you figure it out, let me know.”

Fair enough. I sat down under a tree to make a plan. My guidebook said, in text I had not read earlier, that Nefertiti was a few hundred yards off the lakeside trail, through open forest of gigantic trees—“easy” travel, it said. I looked at the GPS map on my phone. I used this GPS feature often, but now there was something wrong with it. Then I saw: the GPS icon was red. The dense forest canopy must have blocked the signal. I was off the map and had no idea where I was. A small swell of panic rose.

I turned to backtrack down the faint path. Luna perked up. She had been following me through dense brush for hours and was done with our slow pace. As soon as we started back, she sprinted down the hill. I ran after her. When we stopped again, the trail was gone. Anyway, now I doubted that I’d been following anything more than my own naive optimism. We were lost among trees I didn’t know. My skin prickled under my damp clothes and my mind raced.

Lost has shades. In terms of distance, I was only a half hour from my last known location, which was manageable. In terms of trouble, the wet snow had my mind flashing red. The worst-case scenario in summer might be an uncomfortable night in the forest. But summer was months gone. Was the snow a light prelude to winter or the opening salvo of a late fall storm?

Surviving in the wilderness, like politics, is a mental challenge. Knowing this, I sat down again, my back against a tree. The puzzle was which way to walk. The guidebook gave coordinates for Nefertiti: N44° 36.208’ W122° 27.059’. The GPS was working now and could take me straight there. Alone, I could do it. But Luna struggled to move through the tangled undergrowth and together we could not follow a precise heading.

I would have to rely instead on dead reckoning—navigating by gut instinct. The lake was downhill, but following the fall line might take me past the small lake to some lower canyon or cliff, like a cue ball overshooting its target on a billiards table. I stood in the snow, indecisive and cold, pushing down panic, looking through the trees for anything. Visibility was only a few hundred yards in any direction, but I saw a distant irregularity. An unexpected change in the pattern of the forest—the lake?—a quarter mile away, downhill. It was our best option.

The undergrowth was so thick I could not see the clearing until we emerged from the forest. We were not at the lake but at

a campsite on top of a cliff. Swirling snow and fog obscured the bottom. But this campsite was on my guidebook map. We were found.

La Follette was not so fortunate. When the Legislature returned in 1981 to decide the fate of Crabtree, Willamette Industries pledged to log the valley if the deal did not go through. “We’re in the business of making lumber and plywood,” a spokeswoman told a journalist. Dell Isham, chairman of the crucial committee, held meetings for months. La Follette was there too, nearly every day, researching even the smallest issue, desperate for the passage of the final Crabtree bill. But Isham couldn’t see past the money. In a state built by timber, who was he to stop the saws? He delayed intentionally, and on the last day of the legislative session, the bill was still in his committee, where it died. Loggers celebrated. La Follette felt the defeat like a wound.

Luna and I tracked around the lake again, not giving up on finding Nefertiti. I saw the same faint trail leading into the forest that we’d followed earlier. Luna ran up it again. Not this time, dog. A few moments past it we stumbled into an open forest of huge cedars, hemlocks, and firs, escorting us down an easy path. I laughed at my earlier self. Of course the big tree is going to be in a lakeside grove of giants, rather than on a dense slope. Huge nurse logs supported new growth that was itself hundreds of years old. This was the gateway to the ancient part of the forest.

After the 1981 bill failed, La Follette left the effort to recover, having worked herself to the point of collapse. Crabtree was a

Tom Bode and Luna in Crabtree Valley. Photo by Tom Bode.

painful early lesson in her lifetime of environmental activism. But the movement she started had not died with the bill. She had pushed the pendulum of history and it was swinging. Although Willamette Industries was free to begin the long-planned cutting, it did not. State officials and even Isham’s office continued to advocate for the trees, and in 1985, Willamette Industries completed a trade for federal forest land elsewhere, exchanging celebrity trees for nameless tracts. The Crabtree giants were subsumed into the vast federal lands, blandly designated as an area of “extreme environmental concern.” With the trees saved, anonymity again descended like fog.

I appreciated that obscurity, now that Luna and I had reached the heart of Crabtree. We strolled through the open old-growth forest, the trees grandly spaced and undergrowth scarce. I no longer cared to find Nefertiti exactly. Luna may live 10 years. I may live 100 years. These trees may have seen 1000 years. I thought of all the magical places in this world consumed by progress and gave thanks that La Follette had saved this oasis. Later, I told her that. But to my surprise, La Follette does not celebrate Crabtree as a victory. To her, it is a mere remnant, a reminder that the surrounding hills were once also full of majesty that is now gone forever. To me, the loss of those forested hills seems inevitable, just another part of the world that I was born into. What to me is the background shape of history, is to her a scar of defeat.

After her loss in the Legislature, she never returned to Crabtree, unable to see past what could have been. Only others can appreciate Crabtree for what it is. And so, that is what we did, Luna and I. With a log as my pew, I rested in the grove. Luna was nervous and wouldn’t eat from her bowl. Under the tall trees, I fed her like a puppy from my hand.

Crabtree Valley. Photo by Tom Bode.

MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS

Under the Outdoor Recreation Guidelines the Mazamas can operate hikes with up to 10 people, adhering to our COVID policies. Go to mazamas.org/hike to see the upcoming hikes on our calendar.

Please review the Mazama organizational COVID-19 policies prior to signing up for a hike at mazamas.org/ covid, and plan to adhere to all policies during any Mazama activity.

HK A1 May 4. Wind Mountain. Flora Huber, 503-816-5713. 2 mi., 1,200 ft. Meet at Lewis and Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK B2 May 4. Dog Mountain Loop (Weeknight Sunset Hike). Lindsey Addison. Spring has sprung! Shed your winter couch potato skin and come outside! We’ll hit popular trails that are close to Portland and overcrowded on the weekends. Conditioning pace, but with plenty of picturetaking stops. Hike begins promptly at 5 p.m. Headlamp required. Sunset 8:18 p.m. Parking: NW Forest pass required. 7.2 miles, 2,900 ft. Signup online.

HK B2 May 10. Circle Upper Twin Lake. David Christopher. Meet at Frog Lake Parking lost at 9 a.m.and we depart soon after. We will stop for a short break at the lower twin lake and have an early lunch at the upper twin lake. We will hike around the upper lake, over the pass and return on the PCT. Total distance about 7 miles. Hiking rate about 2 mph casual pace. Signup online.

HK A1 May 11. Fall Creek Falls. Flora Huber, 503-816-5713. 3.4–6.3 mi. (depending on loop), 650+ ft. Meet at Lewis and Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK B2 May 18. Silver Star via Grouse Vista (Weeknight Sunset Hike). Lindsey Addison. Conditioning pace, but with plenty of picture-taking stops. Hike begins promptly at 5 p.m. Headlamp required. Sunset 8:39 p.m. Parking: WA State Parks Discovery Pass required. Note, there are many trailheads and driving routes to hike Silver Star. Grouse Vista Trailhead has the easiest road access—high clearance vehicle not required. Generally no cell service at this trailhead, so plan ahead. 6 miles, 2,000 ft. Signup online.

HK A1 May 18. Lyle Cherry Orchard. Flora Huber, 503-8165713. 5 mi., 1,100 ft. Meet at Lewis and Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

HK A1 May 25. Mitchell Point. Flora Huber, 503-816-5713. 2.2 mi., 1,040 ft. Meet at Lewis and Clark State Park at 9 a.m.

MAZAMA CLASSICS

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS

Contact the Classics Chair Flora Huber at 503-6585710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas. org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS

Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help

CLASSICS HIKES

All of Flora Huber’s hikes, see the column to the left, are geared to Classics.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING

Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

EVENT!

DICK & JANE MILLER’S JULY 4TH POTLUCK

TENTATIVE: JULY 3 | 12:30 P.M.

Dick and Jane are excited to offer their annual picnic again this year. To ensure as safe of an experience as possible, all attendees must be vaccinated and must plan to wear masks when not eating.

Longtime Mazamas Dick and Jane Miller are hosting their annual mid-summer potluck celebration and you’re invited! If you’ve never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided. Also provided will be plates, cups, forks, knives and spoons. Plan to arrive at 12:30 p.m. and eat at 1 p.m..

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP

FEBRUARY Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 27

Tami Allison—Mount St. Helens

Matt Blake—Mt. Adams

Sam Brunson Mt. Hood

Eduardo Carrillo—Mt. Rainier

Paul Douglas—Mt. Shasta

Ana Eguren—South Sister

Mária Fehér—Mt. Hood

Rochelle Fu—Mt. Adams

Joshua Gerth—Mount St. Helens

Kevin Green—Mount St. Helens

Janette Hansen—South Sister

Robert Hollingsworth—Mount St. Helens

Anthony Li—South Sister

Sallie Lorenz—Mt. Hood

Margaret Lowisz—South Sister

Melanie Marechal—Volcán Cayambe

Wesley Morgan—Mont Blanc

Ingrid Petersen—South Sister

Kathryn Richer—Mount St. Helens

Corey Schuster—Mount St. Helens

Jonathan Shaver—South Sister

Travis Simpson—Glacier Peak

Shelby Stepper—Mt. Shasta

Cole Stokes—South Sister

Chie Togo—Mount St. Helens

Steven Villafana—Mt. Shasta

Ryan Willoughby—Mt. Shasta

REINSTATEMENTS: 19

DECEASED: 2

MEMBERSHIP ON FEBRUARY 30: 2,630(2021); 3,025 (2020)

MARCH Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 17

Brian Arthur—Middle Sister

Danny Burkhead—Mt. Hood

Caitlin Campbell—Gilbert Peak

Jesse Cornett—Mt. Hood

Lindsay Craft—Mt. Adams

Maura Fahey—Mount St. Helens

Eric Givens—Middle Sister

Thomas Hickman—South Sister

Dafna Lohr—Mount St. Helens

Paul J McClellan—Middle Sister

Sergio Peralta—Pico de Orizaba

Melanie Potter—Mt. Whitney

Kiya Riverman—South Sister

Kevin Sheptock—Mt. Hood

Allison Swanson—Mt. Adams

Eric Vandervort—South Sister

Jessie Zimmerman—Mt. Rainier

REINSTATEMENTS: 14

DECEASED: 0

MEMBERSHIP ON MARCH 30: 2,657(2021); 3,050 (2020)

Clockwise, from top New member Melanie Potter on the summit of Mt. Whitney, August 18, 2020

New member Jessie Zimmerman on the summit of Mt. Rainier, July 7, 2018.

New member Travis Simpson on the summit of Glacier Peak, Aug. 9, 2020.

New member Dafna Lohr and daughter, on the summit of Mount St. Helens August. 8, 2018.

INTERVIEW WITH JUAN RODRIGUEZ

by Karen de Vera, Melanated Mazamas

What got you hooked on climbing and how long have you been doing it?

My first exposure to climbing was when I was 17. I grew up in Las Vegas. On the strip, there was this big arcade called GameWorks. It was two stories of nothing but video games. Right at the center of the arcade, they had a 72-foot tower that you can see from the strip, and that thing just begged to be climbed. So, I went down there and paid $10. They gave me a pair of shoes and strapped me to one of those generic nylon harnesses. Then the guy clipped me in, and said: "They're yours, go up."

I’ve told this story a bunch of times before. But I never get tired of telling it because I think, in retrospect, that climb must have been a 5.5 or something. It was giant jugs, but I raced to the top, super-fast. I remember thinking, "Yeah this is easy. I totally mastered this." I was hooked. I was so hooked. I think only climbers can understand because it's hard for people to imagine the grip it had on me from that point forward. Pretty much since then, it is all I ever think about or plan for. The most interesting thing about that whole deal is how powerful the takeover was.

Is rock climbing part of your upbringing? It sounds like you got started around 17 years old. Did you experience it earlier than that?

So the short answer is that climbing was not part of my upbringing. I was a product of a single-parent family. My mom raised us, and my dad separated from us when we were 4 years old, the same year that I immigrated to the United States. I knew very very little about my father.

But here's something really interesting. Maybe 4 years ago, I was on a trip to Mexico City to visit family. My mom told me where I could find her wedding album, where I would find pictures of my father. As I was looking through these pictures, I flipped to this page, and what do I see? A picture of my dad somewhere in the mountains with a group of mountaineers, ice ax in hand, and a backpack. It looks like they took a photograph at the foot of the mountain and they were getting ready to summit.

It solidifies the feeling that I had in my mind: that climbing was meant to be a part of my life. In some way or another, and like all things, the universe has a plan for you. Whenever it's your time, that's when it's your time.

And what do your parents, family, or friends think about you rock climbing?

In the beginning, it was a sore point. My mom was like, “Well I think this is a fine pastime, but you should really concentrate on getting a job, getting an income ...You should think about your future in better ways.”

It wasn't until maybe I had put in about 10 years of work into climbing. I really started to see a shift in the way they viewed the evolution of my climbing experience. Instead of thinking it was something that was a thrill-seeking thing, it was more “maybe Juan is on to something even if we don’t quite understand. It seems like he is making a way for himself.” It turned into a point of pride.

My mom now is more than happy to encourage and get behind all the stuff I do in climbing. Although there’s still a worry about safety, they are way more accepting of it now, especially since it allows me to be able to live the kind of life I want to live and do the things I want to do.

Above: Juan and Maricela Rodriguez on the Tilikum bridge in Portland, Ore.

Photo by Juan Rodriguez.

Could you give us a list of your most memorable climbing destinations?

Some of my most memorable climbs come in tandem with some of the hardest routes. To date, the route “Darkness at Noon” at Smith Rock, is one of my most memorable and rewarding accomplishments because of the leveling up of the psychological factor that I had to endure to complete it in a style I am proud of.

That project took me three seasons, a year and a half, to complete, and that's a huge commitment. It took me two seasons just to even touch the chains. That means six months of trying something and not even reaching the chains. Imagine the mental fortitude it takes to continue to approach that wall, tie in and start going, knowing that you might not even touch the chains.

By the middle of the second season, I had redpointed attempts where I was like, “Okay, any day now, this thing is gonna go.” At the end of that second season, for the first time, I finally clipped the chains. I was like, “Okay this is possible!” At the very end of the third season, the project came together. I can't even explain to you what that felt like!

Do you find that the sport has been more inclusive over the years? What can we all do to be more inclusive?

We're in a pivotal moment in history. All of us have an important role to play in what we choose to do and how we choose to present ourselves right now, especially as a person of color. For better or worse, we have the spotlight right now and we have to take advantage of that. Whether you are a politician or an everyday 9 to 5er, everything you do is observed under this magnifying glass. You have to take your best shot.

We need to train a focused eye on the U.S. itself. It is predominantly white because we are not doing the outreach that’s at our disposal to reach other communities. In particular, look at where gyms are being built, look at the pricing structure, and look at the cost to participate in the sport with the equipment that you need. A lot of times, that's beyond the budget of a normal innercity person.

In the summer of 2019, we did a pilot program with the help of local gym members at Stoneworks. We offered it to the Boys and Girls Club, the Big Brother Big Sister program, and the Beaverton School District after-school program for Latinos called MEChA. That was really awesome because we got a color palette of young faces coming into the gym to receive technique classes. You could

see their excitement and the curiosity in their faces. In my mind, if just one of these kids had that same reaction when I climbed for the first time, then this thing is a win. Because that's going to set this person on a different trajectory than potentially what's already outlined for them as a person of color. You're planting the seed.

How have you been during the pandemic and what are some creative ways that you do to stay in shape?

The pandemic was really hard in the beginning. This isn't unique to me. No one foresaw something like this. Everybody's life has been ruined or drastically changed. When the pandemic hit, it hit me all at once and I, no joke, probably didn't really leave my room for more than a meal a day. For two weeks, I was just in my bed.

It was ugly, but this community is so amazing. A friend sent me an email. It was a simple check-in message, but that snapped me out of it. I was so touched that someone would notice. And from that day on, it hasn't happened again. I tackled the issue head-on.

I figured I can't be the only one struggling like this. So to stay in shape and to keep my mental health intact, I started doing Instagram Live workouts, which helped me feel connected to my community. It helped me feel connected to the usual me.

What is your top advice to new climbers?

My number one advice is to know the fundamentals. The reason that people get taken aback by this advice is because they invest in trying to progress as fast as possible. If you blaze through the fundamentals in order to get to the things that seem fun (because everybody loves the challenge), you'll find that when you hit that wall, you are going to have to work backwards.

If you start your climbing career by being patient and focusing on the mastery of the fundamentals, you will get far ahead of the game. It might be potentially slower work on the front end, but you will skyrocket through everything else.

The last and most important question… What is your absolute favorite crag snack?

If I had to pick one, I would say a breakfast burrito and a Bavarian cream donut from Joe’s Donut Shop. Stop in Sandy, buy your burrito, and eat your burrito while it’s hot. That thing will keep me satiated from approximately 4 a.m. till 3 p.m. It's a timerelease burrito.

Juan Rodriguez and Aimee Filimoehala, Mazama Vice President, at the summit of Mt. Hood. Photo by Karen de Vera.

TRAIL TENDING BY THE MAZAMAS

100 YEARS OF HARD WORK

by Rick Craycraft

On March 2, 1920, the Mazama Executive Council sanctioned C.J. Webb to form the Trails Committee, in order to establish and maintain trails in areas where Mazamas recreated. Just over two months later, on May 16, a throng of 75 to 100 “Mazamas and friends” built a one-mile trail from the outlet of the Bonneville Fish Hatchery to Wahclella Falls, along Tanner Creek. With those numbers they completed the work in an astonishing one day and the finished product was immediately dubbed Mazama Trail. That event was the formal beginning of the trail building and maintenance tradition within the Mazamas. Between then and 1933 there were 14 more “Trail Days” that established and improved trails both in the Columbia Gorge and in the Mt. Hood vicinity.

Many of those trails were designed to give motorists on the newly constructed Columbia Gorge Highway easy access to scenic highlights. In addition, there was other trail work that wasn’t as clearly sanctioned. In the days after he joined the Mazamas, in 1927, Don Onthank seemed to think that finding a likely place to go straight uphill, then convincing others

to follow him over time, constituted establishing a trail. A.H. Marshall took much the same approach, brushing out trails as he went and then bringing back others later to tramp them down. When Mazamas came to a thorny spot around some rocks on the Tanner Creek trail in 1924, Everett Philpoe took it upon himself to blast them out of the way with

explosives. Records are unclear as to whether the Forest Service was even aware of this behavior.

The Trail Committee’s tenure came to an end in the early 1930s due to multiple developments. In 1931, the Mazamas built the lodge that was the predecessor to our current one. In 1934, the Climbing Committee was formed to specifically

Photo by Ali Gray.

manage the climbing aspects of our activities. The Local Walks Committee (renamed Trail Trips in 1953) retained their focus on hiking; and subsumed the Trails Committee. Subsequently, focus on trail construction and maintenance went into a prolonged decline. During the Depression, the Civilian Conservation Corps did much of the local trail work, and Mazama volunteer labor shifted to the Lodge through World War II.

In September 1944, long-time member Fred Cleator, a retired forester famous for establishing both the Skyline Trail and the rudiments of what became the Pacific Crest Trail in Oregon, got involved in efforts to make what is now Forest Park a protected area. He had discovered a section which could be developed into trails leading to a meadow below an impressive ridge. It was to be known as the Mazama Forest. After getting the go ahead from Mazama Council, Cleator and Harrie Jennison threw themselves into the undertaking, with plenty of willing volunteers, for the remainder of the 1940s. They had envisioned a hiking and nature retreat area for the Mazamas, overlooked by a ridge of intentionally planted stately trees, each named after a former Mazama president. This trail is still there and today is known as the Hardesty Trail, named after Local Walks founder William Hardesty. Tragically, just as this endeavor was gaining momentum, a careless fire (much like the 2017 Gorge fire) swept through the area and undid much of the work to that point.

However, this vision of Cleator’s reawakened the practice of trail maintenance in the Mazamas. Slowly, starting in the early 1950s, Work Trips, as they were called, began to appear in the Mazama Bulletin, first to restore the Hardesty Trail, and then to return to the Columbia Gorge. With fits and starts over the next few years, Mazamas stepped

up to improve existing trails. Don Onthank led one of his few official work parties.

Sometimes the leader of such an outing was just listed as “the committee.”

The Nesmith Point trail got a lot of attention in those days.

Carl Neuberger appeared to lead the way to improving the trail up Mt. Defiance. Harrie Jennsion continued to plug away at the Mazama Forest.

Are you, the person reading this article, the one to help revive trail tending in the Mazamas?

Right now, in conjunction with the Pacific Crest Trail Association, we are planning later this year to construct a trail tending equipment building on the Mountaineering Center property (we need help with that, too). Monumental challenges face the health and

In 1957, Neil Baldwin began leading Mazama Work Trips. By 1959 he was the chair of the Trail Trips Committee, and by that time he and Wayne Wright were on the schedule consistently, roaming the Gorge to improve whatever demanded attention. This period could rightfully be called the beginning of Trail Tending as we know it today.

With a committed force like Baldwin at the head, momentum grew. He renamed these work trips “Trail Improvement” during his tenure. Over the course of the 1960s, in a pattern that fell out before and after the summer climbing season, the Mazamas expanded their efforts to include trails from the Columbia Gorge to the Oregon Coast.

As we turned the corner into the 1970s, trail tending continued to ramp up. Neil Baldwin stepped away, and people like Roe and Eleanor Heller and Ray and Phyllis Davis stepped in to continue the work. Basil Clark returned to Oregon after a lengthy absence and took up the cause. Two people who would be with us for years to come, Elinor Levin and Bus Gibson, became a presence. All those names dominated the Work Trip schedule for the next two decades.

continued on next page

preservation of our local trails. We have the tools; we have the structure in place. What we need now is YOU.

Trail Tending hall of fame, left to right: Bus Gibson, Elinor Levin, Basil Clark, Eleanor Heller, and Neil Baldwin.

Trail Tending, continued from previous page

Our focus narrowed at that time to intensified work on just a few trails. Basil Clark and Eleanor Heller worked with the Forest Service to establish the Trapper Creek system of trails in southwest Washington. Clark also developed the Wygant Trail/ Chetwoot Loop at the east end of the Gorge. Bus Gibson and Ray Davis put in hundreds of hours working on the Columbia Gorge Trail, otherwise known as Trail #400. Elinor Levin, who led more trail maintenance trips in any decade than any other Mazama, worked on all the above with equal fervor. And the most-hiked trail in Mazama history, Angel’s Rest, got attention from a variety of leaders, including Don Onthank. Hardesty Trail, Wahkeena, Table Mountain, Mt. Defiance, and Wyeth Trail got some love, too.

Despite massive volunteer labor donated to the restoration of the Cathedral Ridge trail, which was then christened as the Mazama Trail we know today, the regular care of trails elsewhere continued unabated. When beloved Elinor Levin led her last Trail Tender in late 1996, capping her career as a Mazama volunteer after 26 years, new faces like Linda Castor, Skip Smith, Louise Brown, and Ron Von Wald were soon picking up the slack. In 2002, Jane and Dick Miller made a 5-year commitment to care for the trails in Forest Park. During this time, Rick Pope also stepped in and secured a commitment from the Mazamas to tend the trails of Elk and Kings Mountains in the Coast Range. Finally, in 2006, Trail Tending was granted status as an official sub-committee of Trail Trips, the first such recognition since 1933, when the original Trail Committee disbanded.

However, over the nine years of its existence, the membership of the Trail Tending sub-committee declined. Most of its original members were already people who led trail tenders. Some of them left the Mazamas; some moved away from the area; and Bus Gibson, after an astounding 38 years of leadership, had to step down. In the end, the committee consisted of only chairman Rick Pope.

Maintenance trips for the Mazama Trail are still on the schedule. We need to continue to honor our commitment to the Elk Mountain and Kings Mountain trails. What we need is qualified leaders to keep up these standing commitments and possibly establish collaborative efforts with other vounteer organizations, such as Trailkeepers of Oregon and the Pacific Crest Trail Association.

... AND THEN THERE’S THE MAZAMA TRAIL

by Ray Sheldon & Rick Craycraft

Editor’s note: the following was compiled from Ray’s first and last report on the building of the Mazama Trail.

The 1992 Mazama Council started the planning for celebrating the Mazama Centennial by asking the membership for ideas on how and what could be done to make 1994 a special year for the Mazamas.

Ever since the organizational climb of July 19, 1894, the Mazamas have carried on a love affair with Mt. Hood. To reaffirm our devotion, it seemed only fitting that some feature of Mt. Hood should carry the name Mazama to further recognize our care and commitment to the peak. The original namesake, Mazama Rock, an outcropping on the summit had long since disappeared down the north side. This rock was where the 1894 picture of Mazamas reaching the summit from the Cooper Spur route was taken.

At the November 1992 meeting, the executive council gave Ray Sheldon verbal approval to pursue the possibilities. His initial thought was to request a change of the name of the Timberline Trail (#600) to Mazama Trail. The Executive Council’s response was “Great idea Ray, come back when you have something definite.”

Letters of request were mailed to the United States Forest Service (USFS), first to the Mt. Hood and Zigzag Ranger Districts, then to the Mt. Hood National Forest, and finally to the Pacific Northwest Region. The request was denied at each level, based on several criteria, but their principal point was that the name Timberline Trail had widespread use over a long period of time. A contact was made with Lewis L. McArthur, keeper, caretaker, and undisputed authority on Oregon place names. He felt that there would be an insurmountable battle to get the trail name changed, and, if it should come to pass, there would be some very irate

Above: Ray Davis (left) and Rick Pope (right).

Ray Sheldon (left) and Stan Egber (right).

wilderness travelers cursing the Mazamas for their arrogance. Public acceptance was an important concept, and the Mazamas realized that a centennial project must not be divisive in nature.

But the USFS did open the door to a possible project on Mt. Hood’s northwest flank. A major blowdown of timber in the winter of 1985-86 had closed the trail on Cathedral Ridge. Due to budget constraints, repair was not possible, and the trail was abandoned.

During the seven following years, more blowdowns, accompanied by overgrowth by rhododendron, huckleberry, and other brush had almost obliterated the trail. There were other problems too: an ugly approach through a clear cut; a steep series of switchbacks; and the need to realign the upper portions of the trail to a more enjoyable pitch. Thus, the reestablishment of a trail on the ridge would be a huge endeavor. As a volunteer project, it was bigger that any undertaken by any USFS District or Pacific Northwest Region. In fact, we were told it well might be the largest volunteer project undertaken on any USFS land in the entire nation.

The successful completion of this project would not only require an army of volunteers, it would also demand a major commitment of money.

That “army of volunteers,” under the leadership of Ray Sheldon and Stan Egbert, did materialize, aided by the U.S. Forest Service, the professional trail building expertise of former Mazama president Jim Angell, the Mazama Explorer Post of that time, various Portland area volunteer groups, and mule and llama packers. Over the course of five years and 28 separate work sessions, some as long as ten days, those involved contended with rain, wind, blowdown, rock slides, mud slides blocking the approach road, and vandalized and stolen equipment.

Since the successful resurrection of the Cathedral Ridge trail, completed in 1997, our efforts in that area have survived the 2011 Dollar Lake fire and winter storms that brought down more trees on a regular basis. At completion and before the beginning of annual maintenance, the statistics that counted were as follows: 250 volunteers, 6,888 volunteer hours (705 alone by Stan Egbert), and $13,192 spent. This was without question the most ambitious trail building and maintenance project in Mazama history. Below are the sentiments of Ray Sheldon, in his own words, upon the end of the project.

It just didn't seem possible, but we had actually finished the trail construction. We were so sure that this moment wouldn't arrive in 1997 that we kept looking for something undone. But we weren't dreaming. This was the end of the trail. After five years and thousands of hours and dollars, the Mazama Trail was a reality.

What lies ahead for our trail? There will be annual work parties to maintain the trail. A trail guide with information on the Mazamas and a guide to plants along the trail is being developed. Depending on USFS funding and priorities, the spur road leading to the trailhead may need to be a part of our organization's maintenance plans. The Mazamas have a premier trail on Mt. Hood and we must insure it stays that way. Numerous comments have confirmed that the trail has been well received. The motion to construct a trail for public enjoyment was a fine thing that the Executive Council did in 1992. The hard work on the part of the members and friends gave the project the personal impact that mere financing could never accomplish. The trail was truly built with the spirit that has carried our organization into its second century. May that spirit be felt by all who hike Mazama Trail.

STATEMENT IN SUPPORT OF OUR ASIAN AMERICAN AND PACIFIC ISLANDER COMMUNITY MEMBERS

Last June, we released a statement that led with, Being and feeling safe is a right for all people.

This is not true for many within our community.

Today, we are reaffirming that statement and voicing our support for our Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) community members. The murderous rampage on March 17 in Atlanta by a potentially racially-motivated gunman, led to the deaths of eight individuals, six of whom were Asian women. This alone is a horrific and tragic event. But it is not an isolated incident. The United States has a long history of anti-Asian violence and hate which has only intensified during the COVID-19 pandemic.

We are dedicated to actively listening to the Asian members of our community, to receiving feedback, and implementing change. We want you to know that we see you, we hear you, and we are working to become an organization where you feel fully supported and welcome.

Today, we are calling upon our Mazama community to show their support for our AAPI members and to aid in disrupting the cycle of violence and hate. We ask you to act to prevent gender-motivated harassment and violence in our communities, and to learn about the history of racism and violence against Asians in this country. And we ask you to question your everyday interpretations, judgements, and actions as you review the list of resources below.

A few action steps the Mazamas have taken in the last year to address the culture of systemic racism and gender-based violence within our community:

■ Launched an online Preventing Sexual Harassment & Sexual Assault training.

■ Published an Equity Statement that was crafted by our Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion team.

■ Supported a Mazama board member and committee member’s enrollment in the Intertwine Alliance Equity & Inclusion Cohort.

■ Supported two staff members attending The Outdoor CEO Diversity Pledge Fundamentals Training.

■ Implemented learnings from that training including updating language in our job postings and accessibility language on our website.

■ Worked with our partner outdoor organizations to schedule a Systemic and Structural Racism 2-day intensive training for our Executive Director and a board member. The learnings from this training will be shared with our membership. (scheduled for October 2021)

■ The Mazama Board voted to sign on to the Outdoor CEO Diversity Pledge.

Several other initiatives, including proposed amendments to our organization’s bylaws, are in progress. This is just the beginning of our work to make the Mazamas a truly welcoming and inclusive place.

For resources and more information be sure to check this list: tinyurl.com/MazamaAAPI

MAZAMA AFFINITY GROUPS

The Mazamas strives to provide safe spaces for specific groups of people to meet and support each other as well as to foster a greater sense of community within the Mazamas. We know that while the mountain community is a safe and welcoming space for many people, it isn't always so for people who are underrepresented in our industry, organization, and leadership. Having affinity space is a crucial part of moving towards a truly inclusive community. Here is a list of the current affinity groups at the Mazamas.

■ Mazama Classics is for individuals who have been members for 25 years or more. Classics Events are designed for Mazama Members with 25 years or more of membership. Classics offer a variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. You'll have the opportunity to share years of happy Mazama memories with the Classics Group. All ages are welcome to join the fun!

■ Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers activities targeted to those in their 20s and 30s and anyone young at heart. All activities are open to everyone, regardless of age. If you join an

AYM event you can expect great leaders, awesome locations, and overall, a ton of FUN!

■ Melanated Mazamas is the new Mazama group for Black, Indigenous, Brown, People of Color, and/or folks who are from the global majority. The Melanated Mazamas is a community for folks to gather, support, and adventure together. This is a BIPOC-only space. We appreciate white allies, but ask that white folks respect this space created specifically for the Mazamas BIPOC community. Interested in joining? Contact melanated@ mazamas.org.

BUSHWHACKING AT CATHERINE CREEK

by Pat Watne, John Holderness, and Pat Malone

Thursday was a nice day, considering it was still winter, so our hiking group decided to check out Catherine Creek, an area on the Washington side of the Gorge known for its spring wildflowers. There have been three of us, two men and me, continuing to hike during this last year of the pandemic, ages 70, 76, and 80. I am the oldest. As retirees, we need anchor activity so we can tell what day of the week it is. Thursday hikes are a mainstay, not to be missed.

Catherine Creek is a commitment for us because it is an hour and a half of driving, each way. But we don’t mind because it allows us to spend more time chatting, an activity almost as important as the hiking. In fact, sharing our packed lunches, whether in the car or at a scenic spot on the trail, is one of our most delightful times of the day. Since we hike all winter, regardless of the weather, we have at times threatened to remain in the car, talk, eat, and drive home. But we haven’t resorted to that yet. Our warm winter has helped us get out each week.

We decided to take a new, to us, trail at Catherine Creek, more to the east and then north up the gentle slope, the views expanding as we walked. Trees on these broad slopes are sparsely scattered, some prospering where shallow hollows funnel water to their roots, some struggling, some dead. The fallen dead trees are like giant skeletons, their blackened branches arching like ribs, their thick bark flaking off. The terrain is a combination of lava/basalt rock and meadow. Wildflowers showed

their lovely purple petals. In large numbers they were beautiful, especially accented by even tinier bright yellow flowers.

Our pace was not fast, which initially challenged some of us, as we like to push ourselves. But we have found by slowing down we can admire the flowers and take photos, giving us even more time to chat. Crossing a foot bridge, we noticed how full Catherine Creek was, with more water than we have seen.

The day was glorious. The sky was clear and a deep blue, a blue we don’t often see in Portland. Pine trees and leafless oak trees added to the beauty of the place. We climbed up a ridge and walked above the arch, a destination for some folks on the trail below. As noon arrived, we picked a spot in an oak grove, sitting on a downed log to eat. I sat, swinging my feet in the air. I couldn’t touch the ground from my perch. The men frequently forget my legs are not as long as theirs. I can’t remember the conversation, but it was either politics, movies, or books. We share the same world view so I always return with good

recommendations for watching and reading to get me through the next week.

We continued hiking, across talus, over rocks, and through downed oak leaves from last season. At some point, we discussed the fact that we were hiking uphill, away from the trailhead. We talked about turning around and retracing our steps, or heading downhill, off trail, to cross the creek and hook up with a jeep road we knew was on the other side and an easy walk to the car. I remember abdicating my vote to whatever the men wanted to do. I was just happy to be out walking and didn’t much care where.

Dispersing ourselves to not make a path, we headed down a steep hill, slipping and stumbling among the soft soil and jumbled rocks. Old oak leaves covered the ankle-twisting holes and rocks. My hiking sticks saved me along the way, the men arresting by clinging to trees large and small. As we approached the creek, I suggested it would be scenic to walk along the creek until we found a place to

continued on next page

Wildflowers near The Dalles, Oregon. Photo by Lexi Stickel.

Bushwhacking, continued from previous page

cross. What was I thinking? Of course there were trees and brush along the creek. The men pushed through like bull elephants, if you can imagine elephants in the Northwest. My head was the height of the tangle of saplings, face-whacking saplings. Three weeks later I still carry a bruise across my cheek.

We looked for a place to cross, but the rocks were moss covered and the creek too wide to jump. It was not a sweet gurgling brook. It was a torrent, rushing over and among the boulders on each side. The fast-flowing water may have been only a foot or two deep, but it clearly had power. We came to an old fallen tree across the creek, a log moss covered and possibly rotten, about 18 inches wide. The three of us stood looking at it. The rushing water was visible through a split at the near end, and getting off at the other side appeared tricky.

After staring at the log for a period of time, I said, “I can cross that on my hands and knees.” To my surprise the men said they would traverse on hands and knees, too. I paused halfway, crossing on the emerald green moss to admire the white water rushing under me.

Then there was more discussion on how to find the road, and again I left the decision to the men. I noticed how for many years I led the hikes, making the decisions, and now I was able to “just go along.” It was time for the youngsters to take over.

We saw terrain I had never seen, I managed to stay upright bush-whacking, and we eventually found the road, an easy return downhill to the trailhead and car. Another adventure to add to the many in our years of hiking together!

CAN WE USE LESS CHALK?

by Ali Gray

Climbers, I have a question for you. What do you notice when you visit a popular climbing destination like Smith Rock? The incredible natural beauty all around you? The amazing cliffs just asking to be scaled? The tiny climbers high on the walls, ascending the route you want to try later?

Yes, I notice those things, too. But I also notice rock covered with white ...something. I've passed hikers on the trail wondering what that white stuff is—bird droppings, maybe? Now, we all know that white stuff is chalk, built up by thousands of climbers over days and years. Routes that receive less rain in the already arid central Oregon climate can hold chalk for seasons, and some of it never seems to go away.

I'm guilty as charged, suffering from sweaty hands and using an overabundance of chalk when I climb. That said, I've also noticed and been slightly annoyed that Smith Rock, a place celebrated for its natural beauty, has plentiful white, human-made blemishes all over its rock faces. Part of me attributes these to the stamps of a fantastic sport, like ski tracks on a mountain. But unlike ski tracks, which get erased by the next snow or the spring sun, climbing chalk in high enough quantities can over time degrade the rock, visually and physically. It also seems somewhat out of place with the Leave No Trace ethic most of us embrace in the outdoors.

This chalk-on-rock issue recently came to my attention when I read an announcement that climbing chalk and chalk substitutes were banned in Garden of the Gods Park this past March. This popular climbing destination near Colorado Springs features striking red rock, not dissimilar from Smith. The reason for the ban? To preserve the natural beauty of the rock formations. Until reading this, I hadn’t thought that the chalk at Smith is, or should be, an issue the climbing community should address. But maybe the time has come.

So, I pose you a question, fellow climbers. Can you use less chalk when you climb outside? Maybe rather than automatically chalking up every handful of moves out of nervousness (me), use it when and where you actually need the extra grip. Aim for a fine coat of chalk, not a thick, caked-on layer—this will help your climbing anyway. Or, use a chalk substitute such as a non-marking Metolius Eco Ball or Liquid Grip. There are even companies like Climbing Addicts and PurChalk making gray and red chalk. Another option is tying a small rag to your harness to dry your hands.

There's no question places like Smith are a climber's paradise, but they're not only for climbers. Let's do our best to leave less (or better yet, no) trace, and leave these places intact for everyone.

Above: Smith Rock State Park. Photo by Ali Gray.

SAYING GOODBYE

DONALD W. RICHARDSON

Don Richardson passed away peacefully on March 29, 2021. Don was born December 12, 1932, and grew up in Montavilla. He attended Vestal Grade School and graduated from Benson High School in 1951. Don worked as a meat cutter for many years before becoming a meat inspector for the Federal government at the time of his retirement. Don joined the Mazamas in 1948 and earned his Guardian Peaks Award in 1950, while still in high school. Don was a Mazama Life Member at the time of his passing. He was also a member of Mt. Hood Ski Patrol and was a certified ski instructor at Mt. Hood for many years. One of the highlights of his teen years was a father-son skiing trip to Sun Valley via the train, truly high style in the late 1940s. Due to Covid19, there will be no public service. The family asks that in lieu of flowers a remembrance can be made in Don’s name to Mazamas at mazamas.org/donations.

Sadly, my dear sweet dad, Tom Clapshaw, passed away on February 25 at 92 years of age from congestive heart failure. He had been a member of the Mazamas since the early 1950s and treasured the climbs he did with the group. In going through his important papers I found his Summit records—absolutely so special! He climbed Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens and Mt. Hood at least twice, maybe more! The last time he went up was with my mom, his new bride … and they always told the story of summiting only to have their Mazama [leader] tell them to get down as fast as they could, since a lightning storm had developed. Mom always talked about her hair standing on end due to the electrical charge in the air! They didn’t know at the time, but my mom was pregnant with me, so I count that as my first time summiting Mt. Hood!

As a child we took several special trips to Mazama Lodge. We learned to ski on the ski hill with its rope tow, and I remember to this day the special smell of the lodge when we went through the lower level door. Later in life, past their time with children at home, mom and dad started to go on Mazama outings to Europe; Switzerland, Austria ... and had such incredible stories and memories of hiking hut-to-hut with their Mazama friends.

Eventually they hung up their passports and stayed closer to home. They loved the outdoors, and loved people so became campground hosts for the State of Oregon, serving along the Oregon Coast at such campgrounds as Cape Lookout, Nehalem Bay and Bullard’s Bay State Parks. It allowed them to share their love of the outdoors with others … and not just the beach! Mom was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s and passed away in 2016 … I found her Summit Record as well … the one where I was along for the ride!

Cleaning out their home, I found that Dad probably kept every Mazama Bulletin he ever received—which was a lot. I treasure them as well, because the Mazamas were so important to my parents and to the legacy my parents have left behind. They didn’t really get too involved— never led a hike—but were just some of the quiet people who loved the outdoors. Dad was so thrilled to be a “Lifetime Member,” and continue to receive the Bulletins and he always saved them for me. I climbed Mt. Hood for the “2nd” time in 2016 as well as South Sister in 2015 and plan to hike St. Helens next September. I will be submitting an application for membership later this year, to carry on the tradition of a Clapshaw as a member of the Mazamas. We go back a few years, with a picture from the 1930s of my grandparents and their friends from a community near Forest Grove called Hillside, climbing the Hogsback on the way to the top of Mt. Hood. It’s quite a photo!

Anyway, sadly, dad is gone and I knew I needed to let you know.

Thank you so very much for being part of this amazing organization that was so much a part of my parent’s lives!

Sincerely, Linda (Clapshaw) Harrington

TOM CLAPSHAW

BYLAWS UPDATE

by Bylaws Team

The changes to the Mazama Bylaws being recommended by the Executive Council are significant. As such, it is not surprising there are both questions and concerns about what the changes will mean for the organization. In addition to the changes themselves, some have also raised concerns about process and the need for a Special Election. To ensure there is ample time to answer questions and respond to concerns, the Bylaws Team has decided to shift the start of the vote on the proposed changes from May 31 to September 7 as part of the Annual Election.

WHAT ARE BYLAWS?

Nonprofit bylaws are the main governing document for a nonprofit organization. They define the role of board members and outline the rules and principles of the nonprofit’s governing structure. According to ORS 65.061, Oregon nonprofit

organizations are required to adopt bylaws. The Mazamas is a nonprofit and must have bylaws.

Bylaws should include only fundamental rules governing the nonprofit. Information that is likely to change frequently (e.g. the number of committees and committee charges) should not be included. These are better suited for procedure and

2020 2019

AUG/SEPT 2019

The Executive Council begins discussing the need to update the bylaws.

OCT. 2019 Bylaws Team is convened to begin investigating the process of a bylaws update.

NOV. 2019–

AUG. 2020

Bylaws Team reaches out to committees, leadership, and outside experts to get input and suggestions, along with professional advice.

AUG.–

DEC. 2020

Bylaws Team compiles all of the information received into proposed amendments.

DEC. 2020

Executive Council reviews the proposed proposed Bylaws Amendments.

JAN. 2021

Bylaws Amendment information and timeline is published in the January/ February Bulletin, posted to the Mazama Blog, and shared in the weekly eNews.

Keep up to date on all things Bylaws at mazamas.org/bylawsamendments

policy manuals. In addition, bylaws are intended to be broad. For example, it may be better to say that board meetings will be held quarterly, rather than to specify monthly. This allows the organization the flexibility to accommodate change without having to make frequent revisions to its main governing document.

WHY MAKE THE CHANGE?

In 2019 the Executive Council (EC) began an effort to modernize the bylaws. There were several objectives behind updating the bylaws including improving the operational efficiency of the organization, attracting new like-minded members, and creating a more effective governing board. As part of this process, the EC formed a Bylaws Team that included members outside of the EC. The Bylaws Team consulted with every Mazama committee, leadership within the organization, as well as outside experts versed in legal best practices. The result of this process are the following proposed amendments.

1. Remove the requirement that an applicant for Mazama membership must successfully summit a glaciated peak to be accepted as a member.

2. Remove the three-year membership requirement for being an Executive Council member. Executive Council candidates will continue to be voted in by the membership.

3. Add three new Executive Council positions to the existing ninemember Council. New positions will be selected by the Council specifically for their unique skills, experience and expertise. These positions could be filled by a Mazama member, however, being a member is not a requirement.

4. Removing some aspects of the day-to-day Mazama operational structure from the bylaws into a separate operations document unconnected to Bylaws. As well as reorganizing sections to be more in line with modern bylaws.

The onset of COVID 19 underscored the urgency of updating the Bylaws like the need to incorporate electronic methods for meeting and communicating for the Executive Council and committees. Currently, pursuant to the Bylaws, committees must meet in-person at the Mountaineering Center. The Mazamas is also operating outside its Bylaws in other ways. For example, the list of standing committees in the Bylaws are outdated since some of the committees no longer exist.

WHAT ARE WE DOING TO ADDRESS THE CONCERNS EXPRESSED BY MEMBERS?

Over the next couple months, the Bylaws Team will communicate additional information that responds to the questions and concerns that have been raised. These will include informational videos, Bulletin articles, and a standalone Voter Guide.

The Bylaws Team will also facilitate an information session and townhall to provide members an opportunity to ask questions and voice concerns.

We encourage anyone with questions or concerns to email the Bylaws Team at bylaws@mazamas.org. We want to ensure that all members fully understand the proposed changes, and have access to all of the information they need to cast an informed vote this fall.

BYLAWS TEAM MEMBERS:

■ Judith Baker

■ Reena Clements

■ George Cummings

■ Aimee Filimoehala

■ Martin (Marty) Hanson

■ Kaitlin Rupert

■ Tim Scott

■ Barbara Weiss

■ Guy Wettstein

VOTING OPEN

WE’RE CLIMBING AGAIN!

by Ryan Reed

In 2020, all Mazama climbs were canceled through June. Climb leaders still managed to schedule about 30 climbs, but nothing like the normal volume of around 200. This year, in addition to the continuing pandemic and potential area closures, new obstacles include new permit areas and unprecedented crowding. We spoke with Guy Wettstein, chair of the Climbing Committee, about how the year is shaping up for Mazama climbs.

Q: In general, how are climb leaders feeling about COVID? Wait and see, or bombs away?

A: More leaders are clearly interested in leading this year than last. However, we’re right in the middle of increasing vaccine availability and I think many leaders are waiting for their shots before scheduling climbs. I’m hopeful that the number of climbs we offer will increase through the summer. It’s already ramping up.

Q: Any predictions on the overall volume of climbs this year?

A: We ran about 29 climbs last season, which was delayed until July 15. This year, as of April 15, we already have over 50 climbs on the schedule. It’s not the level of a normal year but it is an improvement. I think if we reach 100 climbs, it would be great. There are still a lot of challenges but things are getting better and I’m very excited about climbing this summer.

Q: Will vaccination or lack of it play a role in climb team selection?

A: There have been a lot of questions about this and the possibility of a vaccine badge on our website to let people know you’ve been vaccinated. I personally think it’s a good idea if climbers want to share that information voluntarily but we have no plans to make climbing with the Mazamas contingent on being vaccinated. Furthermore, COVID protocols with respect to masks and distancing are likely to be in place for the foreseeable future.

Q: Last year there was no carpooling and no sharing gear or tents, outside of households. Can fully vaccinated people carpool this year? Be tent mates? [Will this be up to the climbers to be safe, or an official policy?]

A: The guidance around carpooling has eased a bit. First off, Mazama climbs start and end at the trailhead so it’s not really up to us to dictate that people can’t carpool, though we had strongly discouraged it. Now that people are getting vaccinated, it seems like they can make their own decisions about how to get to the climb.

As for tents, food sharing, etc…, that will probably remain in effect for a while for climbers who aren’t in the same household or COVID “pod.” However, COVID remains a fluid situation and the policies and guidance are regularly being re-evaluated.

Q: The Central Cascade Wilderness Permits are in effect this year, and it seems they sold out within hours of becoming available. Will this kill off overnight climbs like Mt. Jefferson, Middle and North Sister, and the Green Lakes two-fer?

The new permitting system certainly does make climb scheduling more difficult. I was fortunate to get into the system the second they opened and obtained a permit for my North Sister

climb. Approximately 40 percent of the permits were released and weekends went within minutes. The remaining 60 percent of permits will be released on a rolling 7-day window throughout the season. I have some thoughts on how this might affect Mazama climbs.

More climbs may need to be scheduled mid-week as opposed to weekends. This will change the makeup of who is able to lead and participate in those climbs. The upside is that it will spread out the crowds and reduce bottlenecks on certain routes.

Climbs may have to be scheduled with shorter notice or put on the schedule as “pending permits” to let applicants know that there is some red tape associated with climbs that is yet to be worked out.

Leaders might consider finding an alternate leader before applying for a permit so that it can be transferred if the leader is unable to lead the climb.

One-day climbs may become more popular for certain mountains like Middle Sister.

Promises In the Dark 5.12b, Southern Nevada. Photo by Karen de Vera

Ultimately, we’ll have to take a look at the effects the permits have after this season. Next year the Forest Service plans to implement a fee structure beyond the current processing fee. That’s yet another impact to running climbs in the Central Cascades.

Q: With no Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) grads for two straight years, what’s the pipeline like for new climb leaders? How many active climb leaders do we have now, and how does that compare with past years?

A: We did complete an ICS class in the spring of 2020. Those students only missed out on their Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) assist. But, the lack of ICS has certainly impacted the movement of Leadership Development (LD) participants through the program and has reduced the number of participants entering into it. We’ve had some people re-engage with their LD commitment and new participants have joined the program, so that’s promising. The Climbing Committee worked with the BCEP Committee to prioritize LD participants as assistants in order to satisfy their LD eval requirements and we’ve been encouraging climb leaders to help LD participants with assists and provisional leaders with their climbs. Unfortunately, LD progress will be hindered until more ICS teaching opportunities become available. The skill builders put on by the ICS Committee have helped. We currently have 90 climb leaders and 21 provisional leaders. Some of those climb leaders are more focused on teaching and some aren’t actively leading. I believe the number of climb leaders has been fairly stable for the past few years. It’s the demand from the climbing community that we strive to meet and, of course, new leaders help with that tremendously. Leader Development is a major focus of the Climbing Committee.

Q: Here’s a topic hotly debated recently on social media: BCEP grads have trouble getting on climbs, feel that leaders are only choosing their friends or the highly experienced, and as a result leave the club. Whether or not this is true, are leaders discussing guidelines for choosing a team?

A: I truly believe climb leaders are fairly objective when selecting their teams. Qualifications for participation on a climb are obviously paramount. Leaders also seek to diversify their teams because it enriches the whole experience and has a positive impact on the community. Many leaders look out for people who aren’t getting on climbs. There are climbs that sometimes come together more organically through discussions among leaders and climbers, especially for climbs where specific skills are critical to executing the climb. But, I’d say that’s fairly rare.

It wasn’t that long ago that I was a BCEP grad so I certainly understand how people feel about the difficulty of getting on climbs. I think our website has made the process more equitable

and flexible, but it really comes down to supply and demand. Hood is usually at the top of the list for most BCEP grads, but we’re unlikely to ever fully meet that demand.

Climbing Committee recently sent an email to climb leaders asking them to consider making space for BCEP grads on their climbs. It was simply a reminder that there will be new climbers looking for opportunities to climb with the Mazamas. We aren’t issuing any guidelines to climb leaders though. Choosing a team is one of the hardest parts of being a climb leader but it’s also a role we expect them to fulfill. We trust them to use their best judgement.

I will add that it’s important for BCEP grads and anyone applying for a climb to have a resume available either through their climb history on their profile for mazamas.org or via a shared document. That’s extremely important. Also, apply for less popular climbs to build out your experience. There are so many wonderful climbs that don’t get a lot of interest but can make a big difference for getting on Hood in a year or two.

Q: Has the differential pricing of climbs introduced last year made any difference?

A: It’s hard to say at this point. It sort of depends on what kind of difference you’re talking about. I can’t say how much it has deterred climb applicants. There’s too much COVID impact wrapped up in last year’s numbers so we’ll have to wait and see. What I do know is that we now know how much it costs us to run our climbs and overall climbing program. Now that the climb prices reflect the costs of the climbs, we can make better and more informed decisions about the program. It was unreasonable to continue with climb prices that had no grounding in the actual costs. I see demand for our climbs remaining high and I believe people will continue to see the tremendous value of climbing with the Mazamas.

Q: Any big non-COVID topics come up in Climb Committee meetings lately? Any new initiatives or pressing concerns?

A: We’re looking at ways to enhance the Leadership Development program and make it more efficient. We’ll likely be spinning up a project around that. We’re always focused on safety and ensuring our policies reflect the best practices. We’re making some updates to the climb leader manual. We’re also making sure we have enough equipment like ropes and that those resources are managed properly so climb leaders have what they need to lead climbs.

The Climbing Committee is mostly about the business of running the climbing program during a pandemic right now. As always, our goal is to support the climbing community through the support and empowerment of our climb leaders. The more we can do to get leaders in the mountains with their teams, the happier everyone will be.

ANSWERS TO HOW WELL TO YOU KNOW YOUR WILDFLOWERS? (PAGE 13)

Flower name and photographer

1. Lupine, Ali Gray

2. Cutleaf balsamroot, Teri Smith

3. Lewisia columbiana, Darrin Gunkel

4. Arrowleaf balsamroot, Lexi Stickel

5. Edible thistle, Darrin Gunkel

6. Aster, Jorge Reyes

7. Crocus, Teri Smith

8. Subalpine mariposa lily, Michael Smiek

9. Agoseris and paintbrush, Darrin Gunkel

10. Daffodil, Jorge Reyes

11. Crocus tommasinianus (Early Crocus), Roberta Zouain

12. Western anemone, Darrin Gunkel

13. Tiger lily, Michael Smiek

14. Yellow Avalanche-lily, Marlynn Rust

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES (Executive Council)

FEBRUARY 16, 2021

by Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary

ATTENDING (ZOOM): Joe Eberhardt, President; Aimee Filimoehala, Vice President; Rick Amodeo, Treasurer; Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary; Jesse Applegate, Reena Clements, Lori Coyner, Judith Baker, Bob Breivogel, Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director; Laura Burger, Development Coordinator

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 4:03 p.m. by President Joe Eberhardt. Joe noted a quorum was present.

REVIEW & APPROVAL OF THE MINUTES

Joe Eberhardt asked for approval of October meeting minutes. Minutes were approved by consensus of the board.

Joe asked for approval of the January minutes and they were approved with a unanimous vote.

MEMBERSHIP REPORT

Sarah Bradham noted we changed the format of the membership report. Sarah also noted the life (paid) and life (50 year) numbers were flipped in the packet.

Membership numbers are still down from last year, but we had a small bump due to BCEP starting registration.

Joe asked if we have data age trends for member age. Sarah said we can pull the data and share it next month.

TREASURER’S REPORT

Rick Amodeo shared that they had a meeting of the Investment Committee last week but the Finance Committee was unable to meet.

We received our second PPP loan earlier this month, and we will not need to take withdraw funds from our investment accounts this month. The Lodge had a rental over the weekend which brough in some revenue.

Largest budget variance is membership, and donations are also down.

Sarah clarified that they are expecting the PPP loan to be fully forgivable, but we are unable to apply for forgiveness yet.

AUDIT REPORT

Sarah introduced Kris Oliveira from Kern & Thompson, who performed the audit. Kristin Brooks also joined us.

■ They audit is almost complete, and the footnotes and numbers should not change. Kris noted that we had some considerations this year including a reduction in activity, and the dissolution of the Foundation on September 30, 2020. They also have a new accounting standard that will impact footnotes.

■ Foundation dissolution and asset transfer means we have new line items, including Investments, Contributions Receivable, Contributions Payable, and Facility.

■ The PPP loan is noted as a Refundable Advance until we meet conditions.

■ The net assets have increased from the foundation dissolution from the assets we received.

■ Overall total assets are up about $2,500,000.

Statement of activities

□ Contributions are down due to affiliated dues not being collected. FY19 had larger than normal contributions so the difference is more pronounced.

□ Programs, outing revenue, and membership dues were all down due to COVID. Overall total operating revenue was down about $319,000.

□ Non-operating activities was the transfer from the Foundation which resulted in our overall asset gain.

□ The donor restrictions column is a multi-year column. The Mazamas shows a deficit in this column as revenue is booked at the time of the pledge, but expenses are booked as they are incurred.

□ Jeff Hawkins asked for clarification about the Non-operating activities line item. Kris explained that she pulled the Foundation transfer out as a separate line item to better reflect our daily operations without the transfer.

Statement of functional expenses

□ Highlighted items: No allocation for personnel cost of development, and insurance should be allocated to specific programs.

□ Personnel cost went down. Insurance also decreased due to a carrier change. Outing expenses, facility rentals, vehicle expenses, and professional services all went down due to COVID.

Cash flow statement

□ This statement adjusts for accrual accounting to reflect our cash flow.

□ Our PPP loan is reflected in our operating activities since it will be forgivable.

□ Overall our cash increased by about $17,000.

Footnotes

□ Revised program descriptions.

□ Highlighted the new accounting standard regarding conditional vs restricted contributions.

□ New verbiage is lifted verbatim from the Foundation.

□ Clarification about what is our earned income.

□ PPP loan clarification over why it is being treated as a conditional grant.

□ Types of investments from the Foundation transfer and restricted net assets.

□ Explanation of the Foundation transfer and what came over to Mazamas.

□ Subsequent events regarding future impact of COVID and the additional PPP loan.

■ Joe Eberhardt noted that we may want to revise the 5 percent distribution expectation to make sure it’s in line with the investment committee objectives.

Audit letters

□ Governance letter, issued to every client about the audit process. The most significant footnote is about the Foundation transfer. They did not feel they had difficulties getting information from the audit, and no disagreements with the Mazama management team.

□ Management letter, fewer comments than last year. Noted they would like documentation of journal entries, that a bank account is still in an ex-board member’s name and needs to be updated, and we need to continue to segregate duties.

■ Sarah noted the bank account is difficult to get update due to how it was setup but she hopes to get it wound up this year.

DEVELOPMENT REPORT

■ Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, gave a brief overview of individual donations for January and the current fiscal year.

■ Planning a fundraising campaign for spring and plan to share an update at the March meeting.

■ Planning for Laura’s maternity leave from mid April through mid July.

■ Sarah clarified that we have individual donations and grants as separate line items, but we are looking at the total number together for the year due to uncertainties around grant funding.

SHED PROJECT

■ Jeff Hawkins joined to discuss the trail tending shed project. Jeff will request authorization to build the shed, specifically about planning and fundraising.

■ Total cost is about $40,700, with $29,000 already pledged. There will be Bulletin article about the shed and how to donate to the project.

■ Anticipated to start building in early September, assuming permit goes through. Permit application would be submitted in mid-March.

■ Potential issues include the removal of the aspen trees, cost uncertainties, funding, and the schedule regarding permit approval, supply availability, and labor.

■ Jeff requested approval on the design of the shed and parking lot lighting, the funding plan, and permission to proceed with the construction plan. Aimee pushed a motion forward, and Rick seconded the motion. The motion was passed unanimously.

■ Jeff requested to remove the aspens and move forward with the Bulletin article and begin the permit process. Rick made a motion to remove the Aspen trees and Aimee seconded the motion. Five members approved the motion. Jesse Applegate abstained.

■ Sarah noted that the rest of the plan outlined does not need EC approval, and Joe agreed. Sarah and Jeff will talk with Christine Mackert about the plan to remove the trees. Rick Craycraft noted

that there are concerns with safety during the removal process.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE DISCUSSION

■ Barbara Weiss, chair of the Nominating Committee, joined to discuss how to focus efforts on EC member recruitment. Barbara would like to know if there are any skills or knowledge gaps that the EC would like to specifically focus efforts on.

■ Rick suggested someone knowledgeable in finance.

■ Lori Coyner requested someone with management or organizational development experience, as well as focusing on recruiting diverse members. Barbara agreed and noted there are some potential candidates that don’t have the three year requirement but could be good candidates.

■ Sarah recommended someone with nonprofit management experience.

■ Barbara suggested and Aimee agreed that someone with legal experience would be useful.

■ Barbara will share the matrix with skills and background information with EC members and asked for people to share names of people if EC has specific candidates in mind.

■ Reena Clements clarified that candidates for this year will still need to have three years of membership. Aimee noted that if the bylaws change is approved and goes into effect immediately, that requirement will be gone in time. Sarah noted they could have candidates added on contingency, but the timing would be very tight.

■ Jesse Applegate suggested a skill to look for would be change management.

ACTING ED REPORT

■ Sarah gave a brief overview of the ED report, and noted it was mostly operational.

■ Wyden and Blumenhauer will announce new wilderness protections and Sarah may be quoted in it.

■ Should be able to apply for forgiveness for the first PPP loan on March 1.

■ There was a group at the Lodge and will have a debrief later this week.

■ The audit was moved up earlier this year and our goal will be to have it in February going forward.

■ Outdoor CEO Pledge

□ Mazamas has not signed on previously. None of the Mazama EDs signed on because it felt largely like window dressing with no work behind the scenes.

□ Now with a DEI committee in place, scholarships, and board level work, it makes sense to sign on.

□ Other groups we are aligned with have signed on as well.

□ Sarah is asking for a commitment from EC to sign on now. Joe asked about the requirements. Sarah noted that she would start by reaching out to the group to confirm the requirements for nonprofits, and then continuing to do the work we are already doing in this area.

□ Aimee, Rick, Lori, and Judith all had comments of support to sign on. Jesse supported but wanted to make sure we could follow through on our commitments and asked about how we check in on our work. Sarah would like to reach out to other nonprofits to share strategies and ideas for this pledge.

□ Jesse motioned to sign on to the Outdoor CEO Pledge. Aimee seconded it. The motion was passed unanimously.

■ Staffing Discussion

□ Sarah shared her informational staffing presentation to show our staffing history.

□ An overview of staff FTE and positions from 2013 to present. Mazamas currently has 5 staff positions and 4 FTE. Lori requested clarification about our current contractors, and Sarah noted we only have a contract bookkeeper. We also have a volunteer at the Lodge, and we may need to invest in that position to make the Lodge work.

□ Since 2012: There is now a centralized website and database and we utilize Google for nonprofits. We also have summer camps, run more events, and are members and leaders in various coalitions and partnerships.

□ Updated organizational structure: change from very hierarchical structure to areas of work that tie together. Joe continued on next page

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES CONT. (Executive Council)

suggested that Jesse might have some feedback, Jesse requested to look more at it, especially the communication pathway. Sarah noted the pathway is a tool to workshop issues, and that this is an example of where the diagram could use feedback. Bob noted there are no managers and no pathway between EC and managers and Sarah noted that the model didn’t work and wasn’t efficient.

□ Overview of current staff and their positions and duties. Sarah also clarified that Rick Craycraft is a contractor and we dropped our previous cleaning contractor. We will also bring in a Mazama WILD camp manager in March.

□ Overview of 2021 and upcoming decisions. There are not financial resources to have an ED and an Operations Director. We may need to shift our operating schedule. There is also a volunteer opportunity for staffing the MMC in the evenings. Finally there is the question of continuing to have professional staff and the skills staff will need to hold. Sarah gave an overview of skills needed on staff.

□ Lori brought up the many changes in positions and titles and how unique that is. She also noted in 2016 the Volunteer Manager left and a number of new positions started and asked for Sarah’s thoughts on the effect on tensions. Sarah noted that the VM had challenges managing volunteers due a lack of an accountability structure. Sarah suggested that a comprehensive volunteer program, including a required volunteer orientation would make us a stronger organization. Sarah feels that without such a program rehiring a Volunteer Manager would not be successful. Reena asked if this is similar to committee orientation. Sarah clarified this would be similar to onboarding a new employee through a singular pathway.

□ Lori asked about long term vision, if there was still no room for both an ED and an Operations Director. Sarah warned against getting top heavy with directors, and that there are other responsibilities, especially financial, that need to be parsed out. She suggested an Operations Manager could be a good staff member to have long term.

□ Judith noted that staff provide continuity and stability which is important. Lori agreed especially as the EC changes over every year, and for relationship building.

□ Bob mentioned that we need to keep finances in mind, and that we used to run down the endowment. Lori noted that if we want to be a viable organization in the future we need staff and noted that other expenses contributed to drawing down the endowment, not just salaries. Bob believes that Lee grew Mazamas by growing staff but we were unable to afford it. Bob suggested that we need to carefully look at how we can sustain Mazamas with staffing levels and finances.

MEMBER COMMENT PERIOD

■ No members attended to submit comments.

BYLAWS CHANGE UPDATE

■ Aimee had a meeting with Sarah and discussed some feedback from the Classics committee, and also potential staff positions about the changes.

■ The group has decided to delay the timeline of the vote in order to have more discussions with specific groups as well as rounding out the voter guide for the May/June Bulletin

■ The town hall meeting will be held on May 25. The election will run May 31 through June 13. (note: this timeline was changed after this meeting)

■ There will be four separate changes that will be voted on individually.

■ There are some inconsistencies in the bylaws that need to be addressed.

□ Life member requirements for paid vs. membership years. Sarah noted the discrepancy (pay for 25 years or join for 50 years) was intentional to get buy in up front. We currently have 16 paid life members and about 230 50+ year members.

□ There is a five day notification period for special meetings, and the suggestion is to increase it to seven days. Joe clarified that it is five calendar days. Aimee suggested increasing it to seven business days.

■ Funds Discussion

■ Rick led a discussion to improve the long term financial planning for the Mazamas.

■ He noted we currently have a $600,000 reserve fund to ensure our stability. We also have a reserve fund for potential rescue costs.

■ He suggested the Mazamas should have both a general endowment fund and a maintenance fund. Both of these would protect us from budget shortfalls. The goal for the general endowment would be $2,000,000. The goal for the maintenance fund would be approximately $36,000 per year to help upkeep of both the MMC and the Lodge.

■ Sarah clarified that the $47,000 endowment we currently have is for the expedition grants.

■ Joe believes that both of these should be included in our budget moving forward, either through dues or through donations.

■ Judith asked why these would have to be endowments rather than restricted funds. Joe thinks it could be a restricted fund and wouldn’t necessarily have to be an endowment.

■ Sarah noted that there has been little to no money allocated to maintenance in the past five years and often the money gets directed to another more urgent project. Sarah said a restricted fund would be helpful to keep funds allocated for maintenance. Rick noted that based on the value of the MMC and the Lodge we should be setting aside 6 percent for maintenance.

■ Joe Eberhardt adjourned the meeting at 6:45 p.m.

MARCH 16, 2021

by Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary

ATTENDING (ZOOM): Joe Eberhardt, President; Aimee Filimoehala, Vice President; Rick Amodeo, Treasurer; Amanda Ryan-Fear, Secretary; Jesse Applegate, Reena Clements, Judith Baker, Bob Breivogel, Sarah Bradham, Acting Executive Director; Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 4:01 p.m. by President Joe Eberhardt. Joe noted a quorum was present.

REVIEW & APPROVAL OF THE MINUTES

Joe Eberhardt asked for approval of October meeting minutes. Minutes were approved by consensus of the board. Joe asked for approval of the February minutes and they were approved with a unanimous vote.

MEMBERSHIP REPORT

■ Secretary Amanda Ryan-Fear gave the membership report.

■ Joe asked about the demographics of the members who are not renewing memberships. Sarah offered to pull a report, but noted that in general, our demographic data is lacking beyond age and gender.

TREASURER’S REPORT

Treasurer Rick Amodeo gave the treasurer’s report. Items noted beyond the written summary are as follows:

■ The organization did not need take the planned $60,000 disbursement from our investment account in March

■ Have approximately $1.1 million in our investment account.

■ Have not needed to further reduce staff time at this time.

■ Are working on forgiveness of the Paycheck Protection Program Round 1 funding, expect to be fully forgiven

■ Overall YTD the Mazamas is in a better financial position than anticipated. While revenue is down (13 percent), so are expenses (22 percent).

DEVELOPMENT REPORT

Laura Burger, Development Coordinator, gave an overview of development work:

■ Individual donations were double what was expected, due in part to two IRA distributions.

■ Outreach efforts to inform on different ways to donate to the Mazamas are paying off

■ Laura is working on a plan to cover development work during her maternity leave (April 15–July 12). She and Sarah still need to work out a process for approving, writing, and signing checks

that align with the proper accounting procedures.

■ She anticipates that the Lodge Committee will want to launch a capital campaign to fund much-needed repairs at the lodge.

ACTING EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

Sarah Bradham gave her acting ED report:

■ Membership might pick up in April and May, it often dues as climbs come on the schedule.

■ If the glaciated peak requirement is removed from the bylaws, the organization will likely see a drop in membership as those that support the requirement leave the organization. However, that loss will likely be shortlived as the organization attracts new members.

■ When looking at membership numbers, it’s better to look back at 2019 rather than 2020 for a more accurate comparison.

■ Activities and events are up, although still far behind 2019 numbers.

■ Mazama Wild day camps are sold out, resulting in strong revenue for March.

■ In the process of interviewing two candidates for the position of camp coordinator.

■ The camp is filled and families are on the waitlist because it’s one of the few camps that run from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and offers both before and aftercare. A huge draw to working families lacking daycare during the summer.

Discussion

■ Joe asked about the membership of families enrolling in Mazama Wild. Sarah reported that the majority are not members. Joe asked if they are potential membership candidates? Sarah remarked that depending on the outcome of the bylaws vote, they might be. Many of last year’s families chose to donate their fees back to the Mazamas after field trips were canceled due to COVID, an indication that they support and value the program.

■ Bob Breivogel asked what the expected revenue for the program? Sarah estimated that it could be roughly $20K for the year.

■ Rick Amodeo asked about growing the program. Sarah remarked that it was Molly’s opinion that growing the program would be challenging given space limitations.

■ Rick then asked about raising tuition next year, Sarah agreed that is more than likely.

■ Bob then asked about the possibility of giving members a discount to encourage them to enroll. Sarah stated that we already do offer discounts to members, as well as early bird discounts.

■ Sarah noted that the program is a net positive for the organization as it utilizes space in the MMC that has typically been empty while offering a much-needed service to the community.

upDate on staffing

■ Claire Nelson is on personal leave until early April

■ Brendan Scanlan has been hired on a temporary basis to pick up some of Claire’s work, he may transition to fill in for Laura during her maternity leave.

■ Sarah ended her report by letting the board know about two incidents that occurred recently

■ There was an incident during an ICS mini-course resulted in an injury. Doug Wilson conducted an internal review and the findings were sent to the Climbing and Education committees.

■ A medical emergency occurred during another activity, team members handled it well and CISM has been notified to be on call if needed.

CLIMATE CHANGE STATEMENT

John Rettig and Berry Buchanan from Conservation were on hand to go over their draft work plan to roll out the Mazama Climate Change statement.

■ Joe noted that with draft policies and strategies the committee needed to be careful, asking where does the decision process go? Barry remarked that the committee would bring policy ideas forward first to staff and then if the ED thought necessary, to the EC.

■ Sarah noted that having defined parameters for engagement has worked well, it give the committee ownership continued on next page

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES (Executive Council)

and allows some flexibility. She will work with Conservation to develop those parameters.

BYLAWS AMENDMENT UPDATE

Aimee Filimoehala gave an update on the progress, noting:

■ A page has been added to the Mazama website for all things related to the purposed change (mazamas.org/ bylawsamendments).

■ The voter guide is in the works and will be published in the May/June Mazama Bulletin.

■ Sarah’s acting ED report in the March/ April Bulletin makes a good case for doing away with the glaciate peak requirement.

■ She noted two upcoming town hall meetings, one for the Classics Committee and one for the general membership.

Discussion

■ A question was raised about how responses are trending? Amiee noted that emails coming into the bylaw email account are mostly opposed, but that is expected as a vocal minority works to maintain the status quo.

■ Many long-standing members oppose the change, Amiee’s working to identify Classic members in support to act as ambassadors, but overall the over 65 demographic may be hard to sway.

■ Sarah noted for the effort to be successful a good getout the vote campaign needs to be mounted. Sarah also noted that in looking back over twenty years of membership surveys a question asking about associate memberships has consistently failed to gather support. The associate membership question can be viewed as code for removing the glaciated peak requirement. Sarah was quick to note that because the question was not explicitly asked, we’ll never know for sure and that it’s possible that members might not have supported the idea for a variety of reasons unrelated to the glaciate peak requirement.

■ She recommended that the board float a straw poll to gauge the membership before paying for a vote. Sarah recommended that we go with a trusted voting service to ensure security and

confidentiality. The cost will likely be between $1,600–1,800 for the vote.

■ Sarah also noted that if the vote goes forward, and it fails, then it makes all the board’s DEI work much harder, as it demonstrates that the membership is not in support of a more equitable membership policy.

■ Aimee noted that the crux of the argument is that while the Mazamas think they are inclusive because anyone can participate, it’s a misconception because those folks cannot vote, volunteer, or contribute as leaders in our community.

■ Joe asked about efforts to target younger members. Aimee noted that the working group is looking at some different ways to reach younger members, including via text message and social media.

LODGE UPDATE

Brook Harris, chair of the Lodge Committee, appeared before the board in a prerecorded message. After introducing himself, he gave an overview of the committee’s priority goals for the near future;

■ Get Mazama Lodge reopened and start bringing in revenue.

■ Make folks feel comfortable staying at the Lodge during COVID.

■ Come up with a plan for long-term management of the lodge.

■ He noted some work has been accomplished recently, including replacing all the smoke detectors and heaters in the caretakers quarters.

■ Another pressing priority is fixing the leak in the roof once the snow melts.

Discussion

■ Joe asked about money to fix the roof. Sarah noted we could make some shifts in the budget or run a Capital Campaign to manage the repairs.

■ Joe asked about an alternative plan to manage the Lodge. Sarah remarked that the Lodge Committee is looking at a variety of options. She feels the prevailing option is to hire someone to manage the Lodge as we used to, rather than contracting with a concessionaire. Doing so would put the Mazamas back in the position of paying to use our own lodge and that could be a step backwards.

■ Bob Breivogel is not inclined to think we can find anyone to wear all the hats needed to operate the lodge.

■ Joe asked about a timeline for a management plan. Sarah said she hopes that committee might have a draft plan by the next board meeting.

EC POINT PERSON

■ Rick Amodeo and Bob Breivogel presented a preliminary proposal to reinstitute the committee liaison, renamed Executive Council Point Person. Rick stated that the goal is to improve communication between committees and the executive board. The proposal would work to enhance communication between four key committees and one rotating committee each month. The four key committees are Education, Climbing, Trail Trips, and the Lodge. The five non-officer board members would be assigned to one of the four committees, with one board member acting as a floater to the remaining committees. Each board member would then report to the full board at the monthly meetings, with the rotating committees getting a voice twice a year.

Discussion

■ Sarah noted that Trail Trips and AYM will soon separate, with AYM returning to an affinity group similar to the Classics and Melanated Mazamas.

■ Joe asked if the goal is to diminish the role of staff. Bob responded that no, just to improve communication between the committees and the board.

■ Rick remarked that he and Bob will seek input from the committees on the proposed plan.

■ Sarah noted that staff should be asked for their input as well as it will more than likely impact the role of staff with committees

■ Joe noted that the board does not feel taht they have good communication with committees and this plan is an opportunity to plug in with committees.

Joe Eberhardt adjourned the public portion of the meeting at 5:45 p.m. The board then went into executive session.

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Angie Brown on Thompson Pass, Alaska. Photo by Damon Greenshields