2022 July/August Mazama Bulletin by Mazamas

JULY/AUGUST 2022 1

We are the mountain people.

Crafted by conditions, sharpened by every step. Our mountain gear gives you absolute protection, comfort, and mobility, when you really need it.

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MAZAMA BULLETIN

CONTENTS

FEATURES

Los Enchantments, p. 16 The Enchantments, p. 17 Stereo Card Views, p. 20 Seymour the Adventure Cat, p. 23 An Ageless Climber Celebrates on Monkey Face, p. 25 Round and Round and Round We Go, p. 27

COLUMNS

Interim Executive Director’s Message, p. 4 The Mazamas 128th Anniversary, p. 5 Colophon, p. 5 Mazama Election, p. 6 Saying Goodbye, p. 6 Mazama Membership, p. 7 What’s Happening Around the Mazamas?, p. 8 Upcoming Courses, Activities, & Events, p. 10 Successful Climbers, p. 11 Mazama Classics, p. 12 Book review, p. 13 Conservation Corner, p. 14 Request for Bulletin Submissions, p. 15 Mazama Staff Changes, p. 15 Mazama Values, p. 26 Executive Board Minutes, p. 30

Volume 104 Number 4 July/August 2022

IN THIS ISSUE But in that ruling by the Supreme Court, Justice William O. Douglas wrote his famous dissent asserting that "trees should have standing," p.14 When the kitten joined the kids at the dining table and sat at a chair like a little human, it was love at first sight!,” p.23 What many don’t know is that George has been a rock climber since before most rock climbers were born.” p.25

Built between 1934 and 1938 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the original trail was 35 miles long and incorporated parts of the then Oregon Skyline Trail." p.27

Cover: Seymour, the Adventure Cat, at Big Obsidian Flow. Photo by Sergey Kiselev. Above: New member Sam Dreiman on the summit of Mt. Adams, August 1, 2020.

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INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE by Kaleen’s Deatherage

t’s the first day of summer as I write to you, and I find myself thinking about the promise and possibility of a new season. The Mazamas has the possibility of a new season, a season full of new growth and opportunity that lie just on the other side of making the nonprofit structure and bylaws changes we’ve been discussing the past several months. I want to applaud you, the members, for your engagement and your passion. We're making 100-year decisions for the Mazamas, and the impacts of your choices will be felt for decades to come. As we weigh the choices before us, it’s a good time to step back and think about what will help the Mazamas succeed far beyond the time that any of you will be involved or even alive. With that 100-year vision for the Mazamas in mind, I want to talk to you about why we should go through the hard work and make the complex choices required to change our governance structure and the bylaws which govern the organization. The reality I see looking at your books, at your membership decline, and the loss of volunteers and staff, is that you're hemorrhaging right now as an organization. You are running out of money, burning out and losing talented staff, being beaten by your competition, and younger members generally are not motivated by the same benefits and priorities as your older members. In addition, you can’t meet the demand for climbs so your newest participants (BCEP grads) are getting their needs met in other places. And finally, you don’t have community programming, which jeopardizes your 501 c(3) status because it supports the assertion that you are operating a membership club, and not a community-serving, mission-focused nonprofit organization. It’s time for some remodeling! Let’s use that analogy, remodeling a house. How many of you have carried out a remodel? To achieve your vision of a new kitchen or bathroom, or the benefits of adding 500 square feet to your house, it’s necessary to accept that things will get messier before everything is done. People are going to be moving through your

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house making messes, and you’ll need to give them space to work. You may have to move into the basement short-term, or to give up having access to the stove, shower, kitchen sink, or dishwasher, maybe for a month, or even longer. So why withstand the inconvenience and discomfort of a remodel? Because you believe in the benefits that you will enjoy once the work is done. So, what benefits lie at the end of this remodel for the Mazamas? Why is this hard work worth going through? Can you envision the final product? Here’s what I can see: ■ A balanced budget and sustainable financial model that allows you to strategically invest in programming and growth; ■ A more cohesive and diverse board that shares ideas, collaborates effectively with staff and members, and are empowered by the organization’s governance structure to transparently carry out the strategic vision and financial oversight duties of the organization; ■ A fundraising plan that is achievable and clearly defined with multiple revenue sources and the ability to raise donations from not only your membership, but also from grants and the public at large; ■ A more empowered staff with the resources to accomplish their jobs, who choose to remain with the Mazamas over time, and who are excited to be on your team because their passion for the mission matches that of the members; ■ An organization that is attractive to outdoor adventurers from across the state and the Nnorthwest, with the ability to add new members, new programs, outings, and activities because you have the people power to offer and sustain them; and

■ The ability to remain a leading voice in the mountaineering community while sustaining the reputation and brand awareness that have served Mazamas members and the local community for 128 years! I’m going to give it to you straight, it's going to feel messy—at times maybe even a little uncomfortable to get there. You will need to embrace change, together we need to sell the vision of the future to those who are skeptical and possibly unsure about this remodel. Some ways we’ve always done things will likely need to adjust. The question is, are you, as a member of the Mazamas, willing to go through this? Can you commit to living through the messiness of the remodel to get to the refreshed and reorganized Mazamas, ready to carry out the mission that comes at the end of the process? The details of the changes the Mazamas is proposing will be available by the time you read this article. As a board and staff, we’ll be engrossed in the task of explaining why those changes are necessary and working to earn members’ support for the proposal. So today, I’ll leave you with this question. If you could personally guarantee the future of the Mazamas and position the organization to succeed for the next 100 years, but you would need to compromise on something about the Mazamas which you hold dear for that to happen, could you accept that?

THE MAZAMAS 128TH ANNIVERSARY

COLOPHON CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 mazamalodge@mazamas.org Hours: Friday–Sunday, 9 a.m.–10 p.m., Monday, 9 a.m.–Noon

PUBLICATIONS TEAM Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Peter Boag, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF GINA BINOLE Office & Communications Coordinator

ginabinole@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager

mathew@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org KALEEN DEATHERAGE Interim Executive Director kaleendeatherage@mazamas.org

"Daylight crept silently upward on Thursday, July 19th and cast its rays upon earth. A strong wind swept over the face of the mountain and chilled climbers to the bone, while fitful clouds darted everywhere. Far below us banked clouds threatened to pour their wares upon us and through them vivid flashes of lightning were sometimes followed by dull, rumbling thunder. Were they celebrating the occasion or defying us to encroach upon their realm? Many there were scattered over the snow, who felt that the elements were enraged and would wreak dire vengeance upon us,

so reluctantly began to descend. A rainbow served the Lord and Noah, but as the sun arose in majesty, it cast in the air to the West a shadow of Mount Hood, as a token of peace, then doubled it, and we stared in astonishment, for such a thing was never before heard of. Our venture was blessed on the heavens above and the elements below, so we pressed onward. From early in the forenoon until late in the day, climbers were reaching the summit and departing, 197 out of about 300 being successful. Never in the history of man were so many persons on such a mountain top in one day."

BRENDAN SCANLAN Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Mazama founder William G. Steel's recollections of July 19, 1894 and the inaugural climb of the Mazamas on Mt. Hood. Happy 128th Anniversary to the Mazamas! JULY/AUGUST 2022 5

MAZAMA ELECTION

SAYING GOODBYE

The annual election for the Mazama Executive Council is coming up. The election runs from September 3, 2022 to October 3, at 3 p.m. Below you'll find the names of Mazama members who are running for council seats and for the Nominating Committee. Additional information and details will be forthcoming in the months leading up to the election. Please watch for candidates profiles in the next issue of the Mazama Bulletin, on the Mazama website (mazamas.org), and in the weekly eNews.

YOUR VOTE MATTERS Please take some time to review the Executive Council biographies and statements when they are available. When you vote and make your voice heard you are sending a message about your passion for the Mazamas and helping to ensure another 128 years of climbing, hiking, and inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains.

Executive Council Candidates for FY 2022– 2023 ■ ■ ■ ■

Chris Brox Terry Donahe Marty Hanson Claire Tenscher

You will also be selecting your Nominating Committee members. These are the folks who carefully seek and vet candidates who can offer the unique blend of experience and skills to meet the current needs of the organization. Even though there are only two candidates listed and both will automatically move to positions on the Nominating Committee, please do take the time to show your support for their candidacy and apprication of their effots by selecting both on your ballot.

Nominating Committee Candidates for FY 2022–2023 ■ Kirsten Jacobson ■ Barbara Weiss

Lute Jerstad and Jake Egger on the summit of Mt. Hood, ca. 1960.

JACOB LEE EGGER NOVEMBER 15, 1921–MARCH 31, 2022

Jake Egger was born at home in Byesville, Ohio, on November 15, 1921. After two years at Ohio State University, Jake served two and a half years in the European Theater of World War II, earning four battle stars. He married Marcie Gnagy and graduated from Kent State University in Industrial Design. Three lovely daughters gave him great joy. The family moved to Oregon in 1960, where Jake taught at Benson Polytechnic High School. He joined the Mazamas after summiting the Grand Teton through Exum Climbing School with Lute Jerstad and Jim Whitaker. Jake achieved his 16 Major Northwest Peaks award and climbed several peaks in the Alps with the Mazamas. Jake founded Retec, Inc. with his cousin-in-law, and they developed an artificial respirator with a simple two-way air valve with no moving parts. For many years, Jake enjoyed shooting skeet at Mid-Valley Sporting Clays near Salem. He had a business making cordlocks he designed, and was a watercolor artist, silversmith, and engraver. Jake died at home after a short illness on March 31, 2022. His youngest daughter Jane, wife Marcie, and oldest grandson Brandon Heilman preceded him in death. He is survived by daughters Chris Heilman, a Mazama, and Kathy Sherwood, an outdoor woman, as well as grandchildren Bill Heilman, Corey Sherwood, Julia Sherwood, and Cam Longworth, and two greatgrandchildren, Mason and Rye Heilman.

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MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP APRIL Membership Report NEW MEMBERS: 28 Andy Adler, Mount St. Helens Saad Ahmed, South Sister Brian Barnes, Mt. Adams Kaitlyn Beecroft, Mt. Hood Barbara Bushell, Mt. Kilimanjaro Doug Cousineau, Mt. Thielsen Sam Dreiman, Mt. Adams Dan Dugan, Mt. Adams Gregory Duvall, Mt. Hood Elise Englert, Mt. Hood Carrie Gerstenberger, Mount St. Helens Avery Hashbarger, Mount St. Helens Laura Hollingsworth, Middle Sister Trixie Honeywell, Mt. Hood

Eric Johnson, Mount St. Helens Hugh Kelly, Mt. Hood Kali Martin, Mount St. Helens Steve Polansky, Mount St. Helens Beverly Quenzer, Mount St. Helens Cameron Soane, Mt. Hood David Stevenson, Peak 11,300 (Alaska) Arjun Sudhir, Mt. Whitney Vivian Ton, Mt. Adams Corinna Wachalovsky, Popocatepeti (Mexico) Aaron Williamson, Mt. Rainier Janina Wneta, Mt. Rainier Andrew Xia, Mt. Baker Ryan Zubieta, Mount St. Helens

REINSTATEMENTS: 8 DECEASED: 2 MEMBERSHIP ON APRIL 2,698 (2022); 2,697 (2021)

MAY Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 22 Isabel Banks, Mt. Rainier Nicole Becker, Mt. Hood Peter Brockett, Mt. Hood Jourdan Carboy, South Sister Cole Clarke, South Sister Rosalie Cohn, Glacier Peak Peter Dalrymple, Mount St. Helens Sarah Diver, Mt. Hood Ty Durbrow, Mt. Adams Massimiliano Gallo, Mt. Hood Share Gilbert, Mt. Adams Brian Hammond, South Sister

Marisa Huffman, Mt. Hood Natalie Linton, Mt. Rainier Mike McTernan, Mount St. Helens Trey Mueller, Mt. Whitney Dylan Pickford, South Sister Elizabeth Reed, Mount St. Helens Alexandria Schultz, South Sister Sam Schwartz, South Sister Amanda Thomas, Mount St. Helens Julia Tuohy, Mount St. Helens

REINSTATEMENTS: 2 DECEASED: 0 MEMBERSHIP ON MAY 31: 2,722 (2022); 2,738 (2021)

Top: New member Cole Clarke on the summit of South Sister, August, 21, 2021. Middle right: New member Peter Dalrymple on the summit of Mount St. Helens, May, 8, 2022. Middle left: New member Marisa Huffman and friend on the summit of Mt. Hood, June, 9, 2019. Bottom: New member Natalie Linton on the summit of Mt. Rainier, July, 23, 2017.

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WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND THE MAZAMAS? NOMINATING COMMITTEE: Met with Kaleen to discuss outreach to candidates for Executive Council.

OUTINGS COMMITTEE: Added two outings: John Muir Trail Trek and Rocky Mountain National Park Hiking, to the 2022 calendar. Worked on making outings more visible on the website and around the Mazamas in general. Worked to improve collecting outings fees.

CLASSICS: Worked to get more classic hikes on the schedule. Contacted the lodge about the proposed Classic Lunch on September 3. Sad to report that Bertie August has moved to Connecticut to be closer to her sisters. Her leading a ramble from the MMC will be missed.

PUBLICATIONS: Evaluated production and marketing of the Bulletin to improve efficiency and reduce costs. Identified several publications tasks that committee members can take over from staff to lighten their workload. CLIMBING: Worked with the First Aid Committee to define new climb leader first aid requirements and certification. Developed a Crevasse Rescue recertification curriculum guide. Welcomed four new Leadership Development candidates!

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FIRST AID: ■ Busy recruiting new members. ■ Began medical glove recycling ■ The Climb Committee revised the Climb Leader First Aid Badge policy. Signed up ten participants for the FA Instructor Skills workshop info session in May. ■ Revised the Close Physical Proximity statement based on feedback from Base Medical and First Aid Committee medical/ education members ■ Looked at price increases for First Aid courses in the upcoming year, and will be mindful to keep Mazama classes below market as we also want to be good community partners.

STEEP SNOW AND ICE: ■ Planned for another open climb night on the artificialice wall, date TBD. ■ Welcomed two new members to the SSI curriculum subcommittee: Shiva Kiran and Scott Branscum, and added two new volunteers to the SSI team: Darren Ferris and Michael Graham. All four completed the SSI course in 2021.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS: Hosted three hikes and one pub night in May. Looking forward to having two new AYM hike leaders soon. Scheduled a monthly pub night for every third Monday.

RISK MANAGEMENT: Provided a Risk Management brochure for climb leaders and the Mazama Board of Directors to review.

NORDIC: Worked on finalizing dates for the 2022/23 Nordic Ski School for Education Committee. Submitted budget for next fiscal year. Updated much of our website for 2022 programming. Will be adding a class on skate skiing and a Wednesday class for beginners or novices.

BCEP SUBCOMMITTEE: Teams started in April to test their students on a rolling basis, so some finished earlier than others. Looked into making changes to BCEP for 2023 around improving curriculum and more flexible scheduling.

Welcomed new committee members:

■ Lexi Stickel ■ Pehr Jacobsen ■ Ben Dair Rothfuss

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SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

April 23, 2022–Mt. Hood, Devil’s Kitchen Headwall. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Shiva Kiran, Assistant. Milton Diaz, Sohaib Haider. April 23, 2022–Rooster Rock, South Face. Duncan Hart and Lisa Ripps, Leaders. Alex Aguilar, Judith Baker, Peter Boag, Brad Dewey. May 3, 2022–Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Katie Polanshek, Assistant. Andrew Behr, Peter Boag, Bill Lowder, Elizabeth Reed, Chuck Smith. May 4, 2022–Rooster Rock, South Face. Duncan Hart, Leader. Lisa Ripps, Assistant. Alastair Cox, Mike Faden, Trixie Honeywell, Kristie Mitchell, Naomi Nagler. May 8, 2022–Mt. Hood, South Side. James Jula, Leader. Janelle Klaser, Milton Diaz, Assistants. Joshua Gerth, Julia Klitzke, Kelsey Sullivan, Lynsey Tyler. May 11, 2022–Mt. Hood, South Side. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Sohaib Haider, Assistant. Jack Amoss, Liam Beckman, Sarah Diver, Massimiliano Gallo, Brian Hague, Natalia Hurt, Sarah Richin. May 11, 2022–Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows. Duncan Hart, Leader. Joe Preston, Assistants. Ryan Banning, Amanda Thomas, Jane Hammaker, Andy Robbins, Ryan Zubieta. May 15, 2022–Rooster Rock, South Face. Gary Bishop, Leader. Peter Boag, Assistant. Lauren Davis, Greg Fernandez, Noah Levinson, Jeremy Luedtke, Erika Prats, Sharon Selvaggio. May 20, 2022–Rooster Rock, South Face. Courtney Rust, Leader. Karen Graves, Assistant. Drew Glassroth, Trixie Honeywell, Kayla Miller, Michael Quigley, Chie Togo. May 21, 2022–Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch. Pushkar Dixit, Leader. Sohaib Haider, Assistant. Peter Boag, Connor Carroll, Anna Feigum, Brian Hague, Kyle Mangione, Daniel Miller, Nachiket Rajderkar, Kristofel Simbajon, Sam Wanzenried. May 21, 2022–South Sister. Melinda Hugo, Leader. Tiffany McClean, Assistant. Erin Courtney, Zac Fitzgerald, Vlad Lobanov, Erika Prats, Travis Schweitzer, Diana Schweitzer, Arjun Sudhir, Amanda Thomas, Lily Xu. May 22, 2022–Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Debbie Dwelle, Leader. Eloise Bacher, Kirk Newgard, Lynee Pedersen, Assistants. Joshua Baker, George Burwood, Dana Delaski, JohnWayne Pool, Eric Windham. May 22, 2022–Rooster Rock, South Face. Larry Beck, Leader. Laura Guderyahn, Assistant. Sydney Bowman, Derek Jahelka, Adriana Vintila, Ryan Zubieta, Akrita Agarwal, Kathy Kim, Thomas Torkelson, Laura Lazorski.

Travis Schweitzer celebrates his Sweet 16th summit on South Sister, May 21, 2022. Photo by Tiffany McClean

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May 23, 2022–Mt. Hood, South Side. Rico Micallef, Leader. Joe Preston, Assistant. Dani Larson, Karina Poteskina, Sushant Sharma, Michael Shymanski, Shannon Suehr, Lucy Newman, Mike McTernan, Brian Hammond. June 7, 2022–Mt. Ellinor, Winter Route. Lisa Ripps, Leader. Judith Baker, Assistant. Brad Dewey, Duncan Hart, Elizabeth Reed, Stephen Schmitt, Chuck Smith.

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS UPCOMING PERMIT DATES MOUNT ST. HELENS

■ May 15–October 31: 110 climbers per day, $15 per person with $6 transaction fee, purchased in advance online at recreation.gov ENCHANTMENTS

INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING THE MAZAMA LODGE SCHOOL (ICS) NEEDS YOUR HELP!

The Mazama Intermediate Climbing School is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time. ICS builds on your beginning climbing experience. ICS teaches the skills necessary to organize private climbs and be a competent assistant or participant on advanced climbs. For those who choose, ICS is a path into Mazama Climb Leader Development. The course takes place over two intensive sessions of 9–11 weeks—one in the fall and one in the winter—and includes lectures, field sessions, and social activities. Commitment to these sessions is crucial for success in the class. APPLICATION OPENS: JULY 12

DATES: JULY 10–20

That’s right, your home on the mountain is seeking volunteers this summer to help support our lodge manager during the ski camps. These ski camps can’t be successful without support. We need volunteers each day from July 10–20. Pitch in for a few hours, multiple days or even a week. During these camps, volunteers might assist in the kitchen, serve meals, host and answer guest questions as they check in, perform light clean-up duties, etc. You can find the sign-up page on the Mazama website. Click on the “Calendar” and search “volunteer.” We are so excited to have you! Thanks in advance for your time, talent, and effort in making the Mazama Lodge a special place campers will remember fondly and want to come back to every year.

APPLICATION CLOSES: AUGUST 2 ADMISSION TESTS: AUGUST 4, 8, & 10 ACCEPTANCE NOTIFICATION: AUGUST 15 COURSE DATES: AUGUST 30, 2022– MARCH 5, 2023 TUITION: $975 FOR MEMBERS, $1125 FOR NON-MEMBERS SCHOLARSHIPS ARE AVAILABLE.

STREET RAMBLES Going on a Street Ramble is one of the best ways to get an introduction to the Mazama hiking program. Meet other hikers and plan a weekend trip, maintain your fitness after work, and see some hidden parts of Portland you might never see otherwise. Interested in joining us? All you need to do is show up, check in, pay, and be ready to go at 6 p.m. We'll see you there! We operate Tuesday and Thursday night Street Rambles year-round from REI in the Pearl District (NW Portland). More info at mazamas.org/rambles.

■ Between May 15 and October 31, a permit is required for overnight use in the Enchantments. Permits allow the permit holder and their group to camp overnight in one of the five zones: □ Core Enchantment Zone □ Snow Lake Zone □ Colchuck Lake Zone □ Stuart Lake Zone □ Eightmile/Caroline Zone CENTRAL CASCADES

■ Permits required after: June 15 ■ Overnight permits available: April 5 ■ Day-use permits available: June 5 MULTNOMAH FALLS AND WATERFALL CORRIDOR TIMED USE PERMITS

The Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area now requires Timed Use Permits to access two separate areas: ■ Multnomah Falls (I-84/Exit 31) ■ The Waterfall Corridor between Bridal Veil (Exit 28) and Ainsworth (Exit 35) The permits will be required from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. A Timed Use Permit reservation does not guarantee parking. Permits will be available on a per vehicle basis and visitors will be limited to two permits per day. ■ Timed Use Permits are required through September 5, 2022. Depending on your travel plans you may need to reserve one or both permits. More information and permits are available at recreation.gov.

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MAZAMA CLASSICS

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. ■ Classics are back in action and trying to add more hikes, but need hike leaders to lead easy hikes for the Classics. ■ Dick and Jane Miller's annual July picnic has been canceled. ■ We plan to have a Classics lunch at the Mazma Lodge on Friday, Sept. 2. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair, Flora Huber, at 503658-5710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org. SUPPORT THE CLASSICS Classics needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help. CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

YOUR AD HERE!

Contact the us to learn more about advertising in the Mazama Bulletin! mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org

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BOOK REVIEW THE WORLD BENEATH THEIR FEET SCOTT ELLSWORTH

by Brian Goldman

or nearly a century, elite English climbers from Oxford and Cambridge dominated mountaineering. Thirty-one out of 36 peaks in the Alps were first climbed by the English. In 1865, the Matterhorn was first climbed by an Englishman, wearing cotton parkas, woolen sweaters, hobnailed leather boots, while using canvas expedition tents and kerosene stoves. Imagine—no avalanche beacons; no weather reports delivered by satellite phone; no oxygen systems; no lightweight packs; few maps or photographs. These were different times indeed, confirmed by the clothes they wore and the books they carried. Eric Shipton, who attempted to climb Mt. Everest numerous times, wore “seven sweaters, two pairs of woolen trousers, five pairs of socks, one pair of woolen mittens, sheepskin gauntlets, a windproof suit, and a balaclava helmet.” He wrote that he felt like a “fully-rigged deepsea diver for dancing a tango.” In his pack, he carried and read by flickering candlelight Thornton Wilder’s The Bridge of San Luis Rey, a novel that questioned the meaning of life in the face of the sudden collapse of an ancient rope bridge in 18th-century Peru. Later, climbers carried, among other heavy tomes, the Oxford Book of Greek Verse or The Brothers Karamazov. However, as tension steadily rose between European powers in the 1930s, a different kind of battle was already raging across the Himalayas. Teams of mountaineers from Great Britain, Nazi Germany, and the United States were all competing to be the first to climb the world's highest peaks, the Achttausender— 8000-meter peaks, including Mt. Everest and K2. Amazingly, and against all odds, these audacious, determined climbers went higher than anyone could have imagined. In the corridors of the Third Reich, officials soon discovered the propaganda value of planting a Nazi flag on top of the world's highest mountains. The race was on. Author Scott Ellsworth has written a history of survival, technological innovation, and breathtaking human physical achievement—all set against the backdrop of a world headed toward war—that became one of the most compelling international dramas of the 20th century. The level of detail in this book is exceptional; however, some readers may find it too dense and repetitive.

Although the reader is left wondering about the inner psyche of climbers so willing to risk their lives to summit, each chapter is an extremely detailed account of the preparation, routes, and challenges of mountains such as Minya Konka, Nanga Parbat, Nanda Devi, Siniolchu, Kangchenjunga, K2, and Mt. Everest, among others. We learn of a somewhat unstable, ambitious English eccentric named Maurice Wilson, a machine gunner near Ypres during WWI, who set out for Tibet in order to climb Mt. Everest alone. He got a pilot’s license, purchased a plane, and, by dead reckoning, attempted to crash land on a glacier as near to Mt. Everest as possible. He and others from the Lost Generation, unfettered by convention—the Jack Kerouacs of their time, unabashedly compelled by demons or wanderlust or fame—were only too willing to risk life and limb to climb these mountains. Climbers were the rock stars of their generation. They were mobbed at train stations and featured in movies and plays. James Hilton created the mythical land of Shangri-La in Lost Horizon. Heinrich Harrar, an SS officer, climbed the north face of the Eiger in 1938 along with fellow climbers Heckmair, Vorg, and Kasparek, all while being followed by an airplane, radio broadcasts, and onlookers with binoculars at nearby Grindelwald. Each expedition—failed or successful— is a thrilling chapter. Which one would collapse under an avalanche? What new innovations would make these 8,000-meter peaks more accessible? By 1933, Russians, Italians, Japanese, Americans, and French all began to climb in earnest. Each nation traveled in a different style. For example, “the French expedition of 1936 to Hidden Peak carried eight tons of supplies,

including 72 fillettes of champagne, countless tins of foie gras, and employed 670 porters and 36 high-altitude Sherpas. However, in spite of this nourishment, the monsoon came three weeks early, pounding the camps with snow; climbing was finished.” Tibet became of strategic value between Great Britain and the Third Reich. Back door military activity could be brought upon British India from the north, tying up troops and supplies. Heinrich Himmler, head of the SS, also believed Aryans, a blond, blue-eyed super race, had pockets living in the Himalayas that he wanted to find. Ellsworth’s telling of the actual first summit of Mt. Everest was a joint accomplishment of respected equals: Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. However, he reminds the reader that the British were housed in their embassy, with its plush carpets and billiards, while the Sherpas slept in stalls, given smaller rations, and were told to return their expedition gear rather than keeping it, as was the custom. Tenzing, who was said to have a “third lung” because he was able to climb so easily, saved Hillary’s life when he nearly fell into a crevasse. Little known fact—half the porters were women who each carried up to 50 pounds. Included in World Beneath Their Feet are historical photos, short biographical profiles of the climbers from this era, and also a glossary of mountaineering terms that help a novice understand the complex, impossibly difficult world of climbing. Coming soon to the Mazama Library.

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CONSERVATION CORNER WHAT DOES SIERRA CLUB VS. MORTON MEAN FOR US TODAY? by Mike McCloskey and John Rettig

t was 50 years ago when the Supreme Court of the United States handed down a very important decision on a case that still reverberates today in conservation circles, Sierra Club vs. Morton. Yet, it seems to be little known and not often cited as one of the landmark rulings from this era To be clear, it wasn't the decision itself that we commemorate—that was marked off as a loss for conservation at that time, after all. Rather, it was a dissenting opinion written by Justice William O. Douglas that had significant long-term consequences for conservation organizations, and for which we know and remember this case today. What was at stake? The Mineral King Valley in the Sierra Nevada mountains, just north of the main body of Sequoia National Park, was the site of a giant ski resort proposed by the Walt Disney Company in 1965. The U.S. Forest Service asked Disney to build it, with the state of California helping them. At one time, this project would have accommodated 20,000 people each day. It would have had a huge, harmful impact on a small, sensitive area, and would have required an access roadway to be built through a part of Sequoia National Park. Early on, the Sierra Club sought a preliminary injunction to stop development, doing so in the District Court in San Francisco, which quickly granted it. But the victory was short-lived, as the government appealed to the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals, which reversed the ruling—holding that the Club failed to establish standing (the right to initiate a lawsuit) by claiming damage to its interests. Clearly, the Forest Service and Disney had pushed the Ninth Circuit Court appeal. But the Sierra Club didn't give up. It, in turn, appealed to the U.S. Supreme Court, which agreed to hear the appeal. However, after oral arguments, the Supreme Court also ruled against the Sierra Club. By a narrow margin, it disposed of the case on the same issue of standing. However, the

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court said the Sierra Club could amend its complaint to establish its standing, which it then did. Plus, the injunction had always remained in force. In the Supreme Court ruling, Justice William O. Douglas wrote his famous dissent asserting that "trees should have standing," as should their friends such as the Sierra Club. After all, courts had long granted standing to inanimate objects such as ships, churches, and corporations. Why not to objects of nature and their friends? In its ruling, the Supreme Court also said that those filing in federal courts need not have a financial interest at stake, that they could instead have a non-financial interest, even a cause. This ruling opened the way for all sorts of cause organizations to file cases in federal courts and encouraged state courts to do likewise. By this time, Congress had passed the National Environmental Policy Act, which required federal agencies pursuing major projects to write an environmental impact statement (an EIS). In its re-filed suit, the Sierra Club now demanded that the Forest Service write such an EIS, which it finally did. The proposed ski resort had now become inordinately expensive and damaging, and the Sierra Club had managed to change the politics. The state backed out of building a new access road, and congressmen, governors, and presidents now opposed it. Even a new congressman from the locality now opposed the project and backed adding Mineral King Valley to Sequoia National Park. He persuaded Congress to pass his bill and President Carter to sign it.

Michael McCloskey’s Recollections We now join Michael McCloskey in a first-hand account interview about this case. Mike was then the newly installed Executive Director of the national Sierra Club, and vividly recalls what was going on at that time in the nation, in California, and within the ranks of the Sierra Club. In retirement, he has written several books related to the history of conservation activities. Among them are In the Thick of It, Conserving Oregon's Environment, and A Glimpse into History. Interviewer: Can you address why the type of legal actions taken by Sierra Club—both the injunction and also the U.S. Supreme Court case—were so unusual for their time? McCloskey: Prior to the case of the Sierra Club v. Morton, the filer needed to have a financial interest at stake in the case. Most nonprofits could not pass that hurdle. Few legal defense funds existed to help them. Most advisors felt that those filing such cases had less than a ten percent chance of prevailing. I: What was the financial situation and membership of the Sierra Club at the time? Was the focus on activities or advocacy, was the membership split, and were you always certain you would be able to carry this action through? M: When the Sierra Club filed its case to stop the Disney resort in 1969, it had about 100,000 members. Its net worth was near zero, and it had mixed views about the

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wisdom of plunging into advocacy. Outings had long been its main focus. It did not yet have a legal defense fund with its own lawyers. To bring this case, it had to hire expensive outside lawyers. I: How did you manage to get the New York Times and Washington Post lined up to get this matter publicized with several supportive editorials? M: At that time, we had the editorial page editor of the New York Times on our board. He avidly put that paper on record in support of the Sierra Club in this case. Quite naturally, the Washington Post tended to follow suit. This was one of the few of our big campaigns where we did not run full-page ads. I: The decision of Sierra Club vs. Morton, we well know, of course, was that the Sierra Club had no standing to sue because it did not allege it was itself in any way injured by Disney's ski resort. But Justice Douglas was assigned to write the minority dissent that is now remembered and commemorated with the case even more so than the majority decision. Was it generally understood what Justice Douglas would likely do with this dissent? M: Justice Douglas had been on our board for a year or so early in the 1960s. Then, he saw that environmental litigation was coming down the road, and he resigned so that he could rule on such cases. He was prompted to write this particular dissent by UCLA law professor Christopher Stone, who had just written a law review article suggesting that inanimate objects of nature be granted standing. Standing was a legal requirement designed to make sure that the parties had enough adversarial feeling to mount strong arguments in their favor. I: Can you explain and elaborate on what his dissent said, and why it was so significant? Also, how is it still relevant to us today? M: At that time, the plaintiff had to be in danger of suffering a financial loss. In the court's ruling in Sierra Club v. Morton, the rule was liberalized in a major, sweeping manner. Now, the plaintiff no longer needed to be suffering a financial loss. Plaintiffs now still needed to be suffering a specific loss but it could be of any kind. This ruling opened the way for many cause organizations to file suits in federal courts. I: What do you most think we should have as takeaways from this case? M: When we brought this case, we had no idea it would lead to a liberalization of the rules of standing. Vigorous advocacy can bring many benefits. Fighting hard for good causes is always worthwhile.

REQUEST FOR BULLETIN SUBMISSIONS Alex Honnold may be able to do it solo, but we can’t! You are the Mazamas. Your stories, your adventures, and your knowledge define the organization. The Bulletin should represent that. With your help, we can produce a better product for you. The Publications team is a talented group of writers, editors, and you-can-do-it! cheerleaders willing to help you transform your knowledge and narratives into feature content to be shared with your fellow Mazamas. What will we publish? Just about anything of interest to the organization: tips and tricks, stories of trips taken, reporting on Mazama events, profiles of people, poetry, news from the climbing world, and on and on. There are two ways that you can get your ideas into print. The first is to tip off our crack team of writers about your idea and let us do all the heavy lifting. The second is to share with us a draft of your contribution, and we can help polish it up. Our staff includes experienced editors capable of working with you to craft top-notch writing. Pitch us your ideas by emailing publications@mazamas.org.

MAZAMA STAFF CHANGES THE MAZAMAS IS LOOKING TO HIRE A MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER FACILITIES MANGER. We're looking to accomplish the impossible here at the Mazamas, and that is to replace the irreplaceable Rick Craycraft. Rick, who has served faithfully for 10 years as our facilities manager, our recycling guru, and the guy who takes care of whatever needs attention at the MMC, is retiring. We may be able to find one person who has all of these skills, or we may need to look for a couple of people who have the skills and interest to fulfill the duties that Rick handles for us. Are you that person? Do you know someone who might be interested? Either way, we would love to hear from you right away. Please email kaleendeatherage@mazamas.org to learn more about the role, or with ideas of people or contractors who might be able to help us care for the MMC and carry out our janitorial, maintenance, and recycling needs.

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LOS ENCHANTMENTS by Anibal Rocheta

os Enchantments es una región en el Estado de Washington, ubicada específicamente a 15 millas al suroeste de Leavenworth, un pueblo alemán súper lindo. The Enchantments está llena de lagos alpinos, picos rocosos, y vistas increíbles. Con los años, la caminata hacia esta zona se ha vuelto muy popular, de hecho, hay que ganar un permiso para acceder a la zona durante la noche. En mi caso, no tuvimos que realizar el sorteo ya que mi amiga Sabrina había ganado uno de los permisos y nos invitó. Senderismo, 3 días, 8 millas (unidireccionales) desde la comienza del sendero (elevación 3,000 pies) hasta la cima de Windy Pass (elevación 7,200 pies).

■ Debes obtener un permiso para acampar durante la noche a través de un sistema de lotería. ■ Tener que cargar comida, equipo de camping, y todo lo que necesites para el viaje.

Lo bueno

La ruta

Actividad

■ Vistas únicas en un paisaje de montaña, rodeado de lagos. ■ No tener que preocuparte por cómo te ves ni hueles durante varios días. ■ Te ayuda a aumentar la confianza en ti mismo.

Escogimos la ruta Eightmile/Caroline Zone. El terreno es una mezcla de tierra regular y rocas. Si no te sientes cómodo en luchar en contra de rocas, esta caminata puede no ser la mejor para ti.

Lo malo

La parte difícil es que sólo el 4 por ciento de aplicantes logra obtener un permiso para acampar durante la noche. ¿Qué loco, no?

■ Los perros no están permitidos en la zona.

Obtener un permiso

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THE ENCHANTMENTS by Anibal Rocheta

he Enchantments is a region in Washington State located 15 miles southwest of Leavenworth, a cute town styled after a Bavarian village. The Enchantments is filled with alpine lakes, rocky peaks, and incredible views. Over the years, hiking in this area has become very popular; in fact, you now have to earn a special permit to stay overnight in the area. In our case, we didn't have to enter the lottery since my friend Sabrina had won a permit and invited us to join her. Activity ■ Hiking, 3 days, 8 miles (one way) from the trailhead (elevation 3,300 feet) to the top of Windy Pass (elevation 7,200 feet).

The good ■ Unique views in a mountain landscape that is surrounded by lakes. ■ Not having to worry about how you look or smell for several days. ■ It helps you increase your self-confidence.

The bad ■ Dogs are not allowed. ■ You must obtain a permit through a lottery system to camp.

■ Having to carry food, camping equipment, and everything else you need for the trip.

The route We chose the Eightmile/Caroline Zone route. The terrain is a mix of soil and rock. If you are not comfortable climbing up rocks, this hike may not be the best for you.

Getting a permit The hard part is that only 4 percent of applicants manage to get an overnight permit. Crazy! The permits are a lottery system that runs between February 15 and March 2. On March 20, you find out if you were chosen. For more information, see the U.S. Forest Service website.

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Los Enchantments, continuación de la página anterior Los permisos son un sistema de lotería, generalmente funcionan entre el 15 de febrero al 2 de marzo y luego, el 20 de marzo, descubrirás si fuiste elegido. Para más información, consulte el sitio web del Servicio Forestal de EE. UU. Si eres uno de los afortunados, debes iniciar sesión para elegir tu fecha de salida y el número de personas en tu grupo (ocho personas como máximo), así como pagar el permiso, que es de $5 por persona al día.

Mis recomendaciones ■ Comienza temprano: cuanto antes mejor, especialmente si planeas hacer una caminata larga de un día, además así te asegurarás de encontrar estacionamiento. ■ ¡Siempre lleva tu permiso! ■ Recomiendo usar la aplicación AllTrails para los mapas digitales (incluso los puedes usar sin señal en el teléfono). ■ Después de un largo día de caminata, no hay nada mejor que una comida caliente. Soy gran admirador de la comida casera. En este viaje, llevé una pasta con crema de leche y salchichas

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que venían precocidas desde casa como plato fuerte, lo que no solo significó ahorro de tiempo, sino también disfrutar de una merecida delicia. ■ El clima en las montañas puede cambiar rápidamente, así que siempre trae una chaqueta y pantalones para la lluvia por si acaso. Si hace calor, ¡trae un traje de baño para que puedas nadar en uno de los lagos! ■ Trae un cargador externo. Me gusta el Goal Zero Venture 75. ■ Una linterna súper potente (me gusta el Petzl NAO+) es súper importante si planeas caminar al amanecer, o simplemente tienes que ir al baño en medio de la noche. ■ Una bolsa de hidratación (me gusta el HydraPak 3L Seeker) es súper ligero y práctico para este tipo de viajes. ■ Un filtro de agua es importante también. Me gusta el Platypus GravityWorks 4.0 porque el agua se filtró muy rápido y fue fácil de usar, ¡fue increíble! Espero que la información antes descrita te haya ayudado a planificar tu viaje a The Enchantments. Nosotros de verdad tuvimos un fin de semana increíble explorando esta hermosa región del Estado de Washington. Para conocer más sobre nuestras aventuras, puedes seguirnos por Instagram @locoporlaaventura.

The Enchantments, continued from previous page If you are one of the lucky ones, you must log in to choose your departure date and the number of people in your group (8 people maximum), as well as pay for the permit, which is $5 per person per day.

My recommendations ■ Start early—the sooner the better, especially if you plan on doing a long hike. Plus, you'll be sure to find parking. ■ Always carry your permit! ■ I recommend using the AllTrails app for digital maps (you can even use the maps without a signal on your phone). ■ After a long day of hiking, there is nothing better than a hot meal. I am a big fan of home cooking. On this trip, I took along a home-cooked pasta dish with milk cream and sausages. This not only saved time, but meant that we enjoyed a well-deserved delicacy.

■ The weather in the mountains can change quickly, so always bring a jacket and rain pants just in case. If it's hot, bring a swimsuit so you can swim in one of the lakes! ■ Bring an external charger. I like the Goal Zero Venture 75. ■ A powerful headlamp (I like the Petzl NAO+) is important if you plan to walk at dawn, or simply have to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. ■ A hydration bag (I like the HydraPak 3L Seeker) is lightweight and practical for this type of trip. ■ A water filter is also important. I like the Platypus GravityWorks 4.0 because it filters water very quickly and is very easy to use. It’s amazing! I hope the information above has helped you plan your trip to The Enchantments. We truly had an amazing weekend exploring this beautiful region of Washington State. To learn more about our adventures, you can follow us on Instagram @locoporlaaventura.

Anibal is a professional adventure guide, videographer, and photographer from Venezuela. He has been Mazama since 2014 (joining as soon as he moved to Oregon) and has led mountain expeditions in Venezuela, Peru, and the USA for many years. He also led tourism initiatives in Venezuela through TV programs, training, and advised companies in ecotourism and adventure. Anibal is an assistant in the first Mazama Latino BCEP group, and is producing the first adventure TV show for the Latino community in Oregon called “Loco por la Aventura.” Learn more about his adventures and recommendations at www. locoporlaaventura.com JULY/AUGUST 2022 19

STEREO CARD VIEWS

Above: One of the big ones. VM2008.007 Mazama Library and Historical Collections.

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

tereographic photography was popular in the United States and Europe between the mid-1850s and the early years of the 20th century. First devised by Sir Charles Wheatstone, an English physicist, stereoscopy was later improved by Sir David Brewster in 1849. Using a specialized camera, photographers would take two nearly identical images. When printed side by side and viewed through a set of special lenses called a stereoscope, they would appear as a three-dimensional image. Stereograph photography saw a spike in interest after Queen Victoria expressed her enjoyment of viewing the images at the 1851 Crystal Palace Exposition in London. Within a few months, over 250,000 stereoscopes and over a million stereoscopic cards were sold. Such is the influence of royalty. Stereo cards and stereoscopes soon became a common form of parlor entertainment. Much as television is today, stereo cards were a source of education as well as enjoyment. Images on the cards ranged from portraits to spectacular scenic views from around the world, which can seem particularly vivid when viewed in three dimensions. Photographers working with stereoscopic cameras made considerable effort to capture spectacular scenery, such as California’s Yosemite Valley and the Pacific Northwest’s Cascade Range. The popularity of stereoview cards began fading after the 1920s. The stereo cards seen here were produced by the Herbert L. Toles View Company of Seattle Washington. This set showcases views of Mt. Rainier National Park and was designed by Jules Stampfler, an experienced mountain guide at the

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time. The original set of 36 views sold for $5, roughly $100 today. The Mazama Library and Historical Collections (LHC) holds approximately 300 stereoview cards, spread across several collections, depicting Northwest mountaineering views. In the spring of 2021, Mathew Brock, Mazama LHC Manager, worked with David Allen of the Cascade Stereoscopic Club (CSC), a local organization for stereoscopic enthusiasts. David was gracious enough to scan roughly 80 stereo cards from the Mazama collections. Since stereo cards from that era were curved to help minimize reflections while viewing the card, David was unable to get the whole card in focus when scanning them with the flatbed scanner. He instead had to photograph each card and then correct the images in Photoshop to ensure the correct space on the left, middle, and right

of the card. In May of 2021, David shared ten of the Mazama cards at the CSCs monthly meeting. Later, nine of the images were published in Stereo Views, the CSCs monthly magazine.

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WAYS TO VIEW SIDE BY SIDE IMAGES It takes a little practice to view images in 3D, but it’s well worth the effort. In order to see side-by-side images in 3D, it is necessary to ensure that your left eye only sees the left image and the right eye only sees the right image. Your brain then should put the two images together as a single 3D image. It will appear exactly as if you were there. For Methods 1, 2, and 3, outlined here, the images should be up to about 175mm width, either on a computer screen or as prints. Here are some suggestions for viewing in 3D:

1. Free-viewing. Try to defocus your eyes so that they look straight ahead, with lines of sight parallel, as if viewing MagicEye photos. You may see three images; if so, concentrate on the central image, which should appear in 3D. This method is easiest for smaller images, say less than 120mm width.. 2. Cross-eyed viewing. A variation on free-viewing, the images are deliberately transposed right to left and left to right. Raise a finger halfway between the image and your eyes, then focus on the tip of your finger. This will cross your eyes. The images will be out of focus, so if you then

move your finger towards the images, concentrating on your finger tips, the images can be brought into focus and merge. 3. Using a card as a barrier. Cut out a piece of cardboard about 300mm long and place it vertically, edge on, so that one edge is close to your nose and the other is close to the dividing line between the two images on the computer screen or page. The card will prevent your left eye seeing the right image and vice versa, allowing you to see the imges in 3D Adapted from The Stereoscopic Society.

Above: Untitled.