2022 Nov/Dec Mazama Bulletin

Demanding, fickle and often fleeting, nothing offers challenge like the winter season. Our range is designed to let you thrive in this hostility. Hewn from ice, granite, and grit, this gear is strong, protective, and refined. Built to help you meet the challenges of winter head on.

CONTENTS

FEATURES

A Time to Celebrate!, p. 11

Honorary Member: Robert Lockerby, p. 13

Alfred Parker Cup: Matthew Sundling, p. 14

Mazama Mentorship Award: Yun Long Ong, p. 15

William Hardesty Cup: Rick Craycraft, p. 15

Trail Trips Committee Awards, p. 16

Climbing Committee Awards, p. 16

Memo: Mazama Bylaws, p. 22

Proposed Bylaws, p. 26

National Forest Permits, p. 32

Steep Snow and Ice Recap, p. 35

Transform Your Outdoor Game, p. 36 First Aid as Second Nature to the Mazamas, p. 38

The Mazamas Add Classes, Help More People Adventure Responsibly, p. 41

COLUMNS

Mazama Election Results, p. 4

Mazama Values, p. 4

Mazama Membership, p. 5

Interim Executive Director’s Message, p. 7

Successful Climbers, p. 9

Upcoming Courses, Activities, & Events, p. 17

President’s Message, p. 18

Mazama Classics, p. 40

Saying Goodbye, p. 42

Executive Board Minutes, p. 44 Colophon, p. 46

Cover

IN THIS ISSUE

While summiting a glaciated peak may have brought commonality, it did not define how we became a community, how we left our mark on mountaineering, and how our leaders guided this institution to this moment in our long history” p.18

Bob’s efforts, from cataloging over 5,000 titles in the Mazama Library to his efforts to index the Annuals and Bulletins have, without a doubt, done more to increase access to the valuable information held in the library" p.13

Ironically, there are two glaciers in the world named after the Mazamas (Mount Baker and Mount Adams) and they are now in forests where we cannot operate" p.32

Bonniwell rappelling down Concord Tower. Photo by Michal Podhradsky.

Climbing students, Spring 2022. Photo by Marcus Hecht.

MAZAMA ELECTION RESULTS

Elected to the Executive Council

With 759 votes cast, your new Executive Council members are:

■ Terry Donahe

■ Marty Hanson

■ Claire Tenscher

2022/2023 Executive Board:

OFFICERS

■ Greg Scott, President

■ David Urbaniak, Vice President

■ Terry Donahe, Treasurer

■ Claire Tenscher, Secretary

MEMBERS

■ Bob Breivogel (2020–2023)

■ Charles Barker (2021–2024)

■ Greg Scott (2021–2024)

■ David Urbaniak (2021–2024)

■ Terry Donahe (2023–2025)

■ Marty Hanson (2023–2025)

■ Claire Tenscher (2023–2025)

Note: There are currently two vacancies on the board due to resignations. The board will be looking to appoint new members soon.

Elected to the Nominating Committee

With 759 votes cast, the following members join the Nominating Committee:

■ Kristen Jacobson

■ Tom Miller

■ Barbara Weiss

THANK YOU TO OUR OUTGOING EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MEMBERS

We would like to thank Jesse Applegate, Aimee Filimoehala, and Amanda Ryan-Fear for their time, commitment, and contributions to the Executive Council. We would also like to thank Lynny Brown for their diligence and dedication during their time on the Nominating Committee.

MAZAMA VALUES

RESPECT

We believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

SAFETY

We believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

EDUCATION

We believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

VOLUNTEERISM

We believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

COMMUNITY

We believe camaraderie, friendship, and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

COMPETENCE

We believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers, and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities, and judgment required of their roles.

CREDIBILITY

We believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

STEWARDSHIP

We believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP

AUGUST Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 30

Bill Bauer, Mt. Ruth

Tyler Bolton, Hagues Peak (Colorado)

Carolyn Conrad, Old Snowy Ana Filipa Costa, South Sister

Carlos Costa, South Sister

Marcus Dietlmeier, Wildspitze (Austria)

Rudy Dietz, Mt. Adams

Nick Goers, Mount St. Helens

Marilyn Green, Mt. Hood Rebecca Green, South Sister

Susan Hale, Mount St. Helens

Kevin Honeyman, South Sister

Jennifer Jenkins, South Sister

Mitchell Law, South Sister

REINSTATEMENTS: 0

DECEASED: 1

MEMBERSHIP ON AUGUST 31:

2,855 (2022); 1,051 (2021)

Julie Lay, Mount St. Helens

Eileen McCafferty, Mount St. Helens

Matilde Faye McCann, South Sister

Finn Norman, Mount St. Helens

Jacqui Ogle, Mount St. Helens

Austin Papritz, Mt. Hood

Jordan Quiogue, Mount St. Helens

Sourabh Rajguru, Mount St. Helens

Gaoying Ren, South Sister

James Richardson, South Sister

Cat Smith-Vaughan, South Sister

Kelsey Sullivan, Mt. Hood

Heidi Tansinsin, Mount St. Helens

Martin Eugene Taylor, Mt. Hood

Sarah Vargas, Mt. Baker

Justin West, South Sister

SEPTEMBER Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 22

Kamilla Aslami, South Sister

Luke Belant, Longs Peak (Colorado)

Alyssa Bonini, Mount St. Helens Chris Brown, South Sister Michael Correll, Mt. Adams Tim Cowley, Mount St. Helens Calum Hanawalt, South Sister Megan Jones, Mt. Tate (Japan) Sergei Kunsevich, Mt. Shasta Herve Leclerc, Mt. Adams Geneva Lieser, Mt. Adams

REINSTATEMENTS: 0

DECEASED: 3

Stephanie McDowell, Mt. Rainier John Megrditchian, Mt. Hood

Joanne Morris, Old Snowy Ryan Schuster, South Sister Erik Scott, Mount St. Helens Mary Sharman, Mount St. Helens Harshad Surdi, Mt. Baker Max Waugaman, Mt. Baker Gabi White, Mt. Baker Devin Wilson, South Sister Eric Windham, Old Snowy

MEMBERSHIP ON SEPTEMBER 30:

2,898 (2022); 2,775 (2021)

Top: New member Marilyn Green and her father on the summit of Mt. Hood, July 7, 2022.

Middle top: New member Sarah Vargas on the summit of Mt. Baker, June 6, 2022.

Middle bottom: New member Max Waugaman on the summit of Mt. Baker, July 2, 2022.

Bottom: New member Mary Sharman on the summit of Mount St. Helens, July 15, 2000.

INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Kaleen Deatherage, Mazama Interim Executive Director

TheMazamas today is built upon an impressive 128-year heritage of mountaineering, conservation advocacy, education, and community. Over the past 10 months, I've learned so much about the Mazamas, and my respect for the history, service, and stewardship that our members bring to our precious Northwest mountains and wilderness areas has only increased during my time as your Interim Executive Director.

This edition of the bulletin will share the results of a focused effort that has occurred over the past 10 months to analyze our current operational and governance structure and propose amended and restated bylaws that will serve to guide the operation of the Mazamas for the foreseeable future. Pages 18–31 provide a comprehensive overview of our work, as well as the restated bylaws we are asking our membership to vote to approve on January 31, 2023. In addition to the proposed bylaws, you can read a message from Greg Scott, our new Mazama President, which outlines the route ahead for the Mazamas and provides our rationale for these changes. We’ve also included a memo from our legal counsel at Stoel Rives, whose assessment and recommendations we sought specifically because of their respected expertise in nonprofit law and governance.

In my article this month, I'll share with you the connection I see between the proposed, restated bylaws and the current financial situation at the Mazamas.

For the recently completed 2021–22 fiscal year, the Mazamas approved an operating budget of $1.1 million in expenses and $0.9 million in revenue, leaving a deficit of nearly $200,000. The organization's approach to financial management during the past decade is not sustainable. There has been consistent deficit spending, and due to sizable investments, such as the new IT system, we’ve seen an extreme reduction in financial assets. Additionally, the investment in the new IT system resulted in

an ongoing requirement to staff the system, further draining resources.

Finally, the reduction in our investment funds from roughly $3.6 million to $1.1 million means that associated investment returns have declined by roughly $125,000 per year (assuming 5 percent returns). This is to say that while the Mazamas need to carefully weigh the expense side of our budget and consider where we can scale back costs, the path to financial health and sustainability will require the addition of new and expanded sources of revenue. So how does this relate to the proposed bylaws changes?

Under our current structure the time that passes while we seek approval to act robs us of the opportunity to be proactive and execute a timely response that could mitigate additional negative financial consequences to our organization."

Under the current governance structure, the Board of Directors and the Executive Director have very limited ability to respond to changing economic conditions by adjusting our pricing. An example of this would be our annual membership dues. In our current bylaws, the types of membership we can offer as well as what fees we assess to those members are fixed. The board cannot authorize an adjustment without going to the full membership for a vote. Further, in our current bylaws, the process necessary to conduct a vote takes a minimum of 60 days to execute. This means that by the time the board identifies an issue, decides on a proposed course of action, prepares, and takes it to the membership for a vote,

three to four months, or more, will have elapsed. Under our current structure the time that passes while we seek approval to act robs us of the opportunity to be proactive and execute a timely response that could mitigate additional negative financial consequences to our organization.

Over the past several years, as our financial position has weakened due to a declining membership base and an increasingly regulated external environment which has raised the cost of doing business, we’ve suffered the consequences of our own inability to keep pace and adjust the pricing of membership dues and activities in response.

Another way in which our current financial challenges are directly tied to our existing governance and bylaws structure concerns paying property taxes. A typical 501(c)(3) nonprofit is exempt from property

Interim Executive Director's Message, continued from previous page

taxes. The Mazamas does not qualify for the exemption—because it doesn’t provide enough community-based (non-member, non-paid) programming to qualify for a community-use exemption, and provides too many services to non-members to qualify for a fraternal order exemption. This relates to the organization's unusual club/nonprofit identity. The Mazamas pays $25,000 in property taxes on the MMC and $3,500 on the lodge. If our membership approves the proposed bylaws restatement, we position the organization to assess if there is low-cost programming that could be offered to the community at large that would help the Mazamas to qualify for property tax exemptions.

Lastly, as many of you heard me talk about during our town hall meetings earlier this year, our current bylaws structure—which limits membership in the organization—makes us ineligible to pursue foundation grant funding, and

makes the organization unattractive to many corporations and well-known philanthropists. These are organizations, corporations, individuals, and families who very likely have an affinity for the Mazama mission of mountaineering, conservation, advocacy, and education. Yet at present, we cannot pursue these people and organizations as a pathway to establishing the new revenue streams that the Mazamas desperately needs to be fiscally sustainable and to overcome our present deficits. The decision to restate our bylaws and update our governance structure would open a pathway to cultivating these potential donors.

The Mazamas will not be able to cut its way to a sustainable budget.

Overall, the Mazamas is managing its expenses responsibly. In hindsight, one can always second guess past spending and decisions to invest funds in growth initiatives, but risk is a part of doing business, and organizations that aren’t growing are dying. The real challenges that lie before us are:

1. To reposition the organization to become relevant to the growing community of climbers and outdoor enthusiasts so that we can start growing our membership base again; and

2. To give the Mazamas an opportunity to make a compelling case for support to the philanthropic community in Oregon and the Northwest, a community whose roots in Oregon are as deep as thoes of the Mazamas.

By adopting the amended and restated bylaws proposal, we will not only make the Mazamas nimbler and more responsive to the fast-paced and changing world we live in, but we will also instantly give the organization you love several new avenues to strengthen its financial position and save ourselves from the saddest of outcomes— going out of business because we’ve run out of money. No one wants that. Our sincere hope, and the reason behind these Herculean efforts, is that the Mazamas can continue to educate and inspire everyone to love and protect mountains for generations to come.

Above: Mazama member Maryn Bonniwell running her first 50k on the Loowit Trail around Mount St. Helens. Photo by Michal Podhradsky.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

Due to ongoing negotiations with the United States Forest Service, we've recently been unable to publish the lists of successful climbers. For more on that issue see the "National Forest Permits"

June 15, 2022—Rooster Rock, South Face Suresh Singh, Leader; Verna Burden, Assistant Leader. Cambell Boucher, Verna Burden, Tushar Deshpande, truth Johnston, Kathy Kim, Kevin Kohberger, Dylan Pickford, Melanie Potter.

June 18, 2022—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Christine Troy, Leader; Anupama Kurpad, Assistant Leader. Agreen Ahmadi, Cambell Boucher, Verna Burden, Kassy Delgado, Tushar Deshpande, Julia Fritz, Gass Hersi, Kayla Miller, Melanie Potter, Kyle Proctor, Cameron Soane, Leilani Speer.

June 19, 2022—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Peter Boag, Assistant Leader. Connor Carroll, Stephanie Mackenzie, Jacqui Ogle, Robert Hollingsworth, Evan Sloyka, William O'Brien, Aardra Athalye, Joshua Baker, John Facendola, Devyn Powell.

June 19, 2022—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Christine Troy, Leader; Verna Burden, Assistant Leader. Agreen Ahmadi, Gass Hersi, Andrew Howery, Anupama Kurpad, Ryan Zubieta.

June 20, 2022—Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch. James Jula, Leader; Janelle Klaser, Assistant Leader. Jen Travers, Brad Wood, Sergei Kunsevich, Melanie Means, Michael Smith, Alex Kunsevich.

June 20, 2022—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Darren Ferris, Leader; Trey Schutrumpf, Assistant Leader. Chris Roberts, Sam Wanzenried, Nicolas Martinez, Drew Glassroth, Matt Gardner, Laetitia Pascal, Soraya Mayahzadeh.

June 22, 2022—Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Duncan Hart, Leader; Sergey Kiselev, Assistant Leader. Mikhail Hakim, Lynsey Tyler, Brad Dewey, Jonathan Shaver, Andy Nyce.

June 24, 2022—Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Suresh Singh, Leader. Mark Stave, Yukti Aggarwal, Elizabeth Cole.

June 25, 2022—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Guy Wettstein, Leader; Ryan Reed, Assistant Leader. Saad Ahmed, Jack Amoss, Brian Arthur, Oliver Borg, Eileen McCafferty, Beatrice Robinson, Kate Strahl.

June 25, 2022—Middle Sister, SE Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader; Kevin Kohberger, Assistant Leader. Sam Wanzenried, Chuck Smith, Richard Smith, Milton Diaz, Emily

Carpenter, Chie Togo.

article on page 32. The list below details only successful climbs in the areas where the Mazamas are currently allowed to operate.

June 25, 2022—Mt. Adams, South Side. Bob Breivogel, Leader; Bill E. Lowder, Assistant Leader. Leo Filippini, Bill Lowder, Nicolas Martinez, Gabriela Sisco.

June 25, 2022—Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. John Sterbis, Leader; Heather Johnston, Assistant Leader. Drew Glassroth, Charley Rankin, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher, Andy Robbins.

June 26, 2022—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Guy Wettstein, Leader; Ryan Reed, Assistant Leader. Brian Arthur, Oliver Borg, Jen Travers.

June 26, 2022—Rooster Rock, South Face. Toby Contreras, Leader; Melinda M. Hugo, Assistant Leader. Jessica Carrow, Britt Eckerstrom, Matthew Egeler, Nicole Egeler, Chris Roberts, Daniel Zawistowski.

June 26, 2022—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Chris LeDoux, Leader; Lindsey Addison, Assistant Leader. Rachel Faulkner, Rahul Jain, Ted Light, Midori Watanabe.

June 26, 2022—South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Julie Kentosh Lau, Leader; Stephen Zadrozny, Assistant Leader. Mark Maria, Sandor Lau.

June 30, 2022—The Tooth, South Face. Debbie G. Dwelle, Leader; Melinda Hugo, Assistant Leader. Eloise Bacher, Kirk Newgard.

June 30, 2022—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Aardra Athalye, Assistant Leader. Connor Carroll, Jessica Carrow, Neil Connolly, Massimiliano Gallo, Natalia Hurt, Mike McTernan, Jacqui Ogle, Elizabeth Reed, Mira Valova.

July 1, 2022—Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Courtney Rust, Leader; Nick Ostini, Assistant Leader. Joshua Baker, Lily Cox-Skall, Brad Dewey, Eric Einspruch, Kristie Mitchell, Thomas Veeman.

July 2, 2022—Mt. Adams, South Side. Darren Ferris, Leader; Bill Stein, Assistant Leader. Eloise Bacher, Tyler Bridge, Emily Carpenter, Kerry Loehr, Traci Manning, Cristina Mihaescu, Ryan Reed, Evan Smith.

July 2, 2022—Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Elizabeth Cole, Assistant Leader. Agreen Ahmadi, Jack Amoss, Connor Carroll, Sarah Diver, Sohaib Haider, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Jacqui Ogle,

Anthony Pucci, Kristofel Simbajon, Jordan Zandi.

July 4, 2022—Mt. Adams, South Side. Lynne Pedersen, Leader; Eric Einspruch, Assistant Leader. Sydney Bowman, Frederick Cruz, Thomas Veeman, Andreas Wunderle.

July 8, 2022—Ingalls Peak, South Face. Suresh Singh, Leader; Amit Abraham, Assistant Leader. Justin Colquhoun, Milton Diaz, Rachel Faulkner, Massimiliano Gallo, shiva kiran.

July 9, 2022—Mt. Adams, South Side. Greg Scott, Leader; Stacey Reding, Assistant Leader. Sarah Geoghan, Steve Hathaway, Elliot Hathaway, Kate Strahl, Midori Watanabe.

July 9, 2022—Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Gary Bishop, Leader; Jeremiah Biddle, Assistant Leader. Neil Connolly, William Ficek, Connor Lieb, Dylan Pickford, Evan Sloyka.

July 9, 2022—Eldorado Peak, East Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader; Ryan Reed, Assistant Leader. Yukti Aggarwal, Urusa Alaan, Elizabeth Cole, Rick Craycraft, Aaron Fancher, Christin Ritscher.

July 9, 2022—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Courtney Rust, Leader; Eloise Bacher, Assistant Leader. Emily Carpenter, Aimee Filimoehala, Drew Glassroth, Kerry Loehr, Ian McCluskey, Evan Smith.

July 9, 2022—Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Andy A. Nuttbrock, Leader; Brendan Scanlan, Assistant Leader, Christine Troy, Assistant Leader. Mari Fehér, Derek Jahelka, Anupama Kurpad, Eileen McCafferty, Melanie Potter, Laura Supalla.

July 11, 2022—Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; shiva kiran, Assistant Leader. Sohaib Haider, Mark Stave. July 16, 2022—Sahale Peak, Quien Sabe Glacier. Tim Scott, Leader; Greg Scott, Assistant Leader. Eloise Bacher, Melanie Bower, Kevin Kohberger, Petra LeBaron Botts.

July 16, 2022—Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge. Bill Stein, Leader; Jeremiah Biddle, Assistant Leader. Victoria Johnson, Stephen Kingsbury, Reuel Kurzet, William O'Brien, Mike Quigley, Simon Wagner.

Successful climbers, continued from previous page

July 16, 2022—Granite Mountain, Robin Lakes. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Jack Kuo, Erica Lee, Melanie Means, Kristina Prosser.

July 16, 2022—Trico Peak, Robin Lakes. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Jack Kuo, Erica Lee, Melanie Means, Kristina Prosser.

July 17, 2022—Mt. Adams, South Side. Toby Contreras, Leader, Christine Troy, Assistant Leader. Brian Arthur, Cambell Boucher, Mario DeSimone, Jane Hammaker, Gass Hersi, Melanie Potter.

July 21, 2022—Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver. Courtney Rust, Leader; Ian McCluskey, Assistant Leader. Yukti Aggarwal, Kevin Kohberger, Kerry Loehr, Andreas Wunderle.

July 22, 2022—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Rob Sinnott, Assistant Leader. Jessica Carrow, Brian Hague, Christian Kruse, Michelle McConnell, Lauren Schroff, Rob Sinnott, Thomas Veeman, Sam Wanzenried.

July 22, 2022—Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Gary Bishop, Leader; Lauren Saxton, Assistant Leader. Peter Boag, Margaret McCarthy, Nimesh Patel, Ryan Reed.

July 23, 2022—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Debbie G. Dwelle, Leader; Andy A. Nuttbrock, Assistant Leader. Joshua Baker, Cambell Boucher, Andy Nyce, Steve Polansky, JohnWayne Pool, Kaylee Richardson, Beatrice Robinson, Claire Vandevoorde.

July 29, 2022—Cutthroat Peak. Suresh Singh, Leader. Aardra Athalye, shiva kiran, Christin Ritscher.

August 1, 2022—Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. John Meckel, Leader; Milton Diaz, Assistant Leader. Robert Hollingsworth, Kevin Kohberger, Brendan Scanlan, Kristofel Simbajon.

August 6, 2022—Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Shiva Kiran, Assistant Leader. Alex Aguilar, Brookes Boswell, Jessica Carrow, Sohaib Haider, Toby Morus, Rob Sinnott, CJ Werfelman.

August 6, 2022—Mt. Maude, South Shoulder. Bob Breivogel, Leader; Melanie Means, Assistant Leader. Brookes Boswell, CJ Werfelman.

August 7, 2022—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Andrew Leaf, Leader; Laetitia Pascal, Assistant Leader. Wallace Casper, Cecilia Dominguez, Anupama Kurpad, Aaron Leingang, Claire Vandevoorde, Ryan Zubieta.

August 11, 2022—Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge. Joe Eberhardt, Leader; Peter Boag, Assistant Leader. Verna Burden, Sergey Kiselev, Gary Riggs.

August 12, 2022—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route. Courtney Rust, Leader; Brendan Scanlan, Assistant Leader. Agreen Ahmadi, Alicia Antoinette, Emily Carpenter, Kassy Delgado, Brad Dewey, Dylan Pickford, Elizabeth Reed, Jonathan Shaver.

August 13, 2022—Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard. Trey Schutrumpf, Leader; Kristi C. Riedel, Assistant Leader. Jeremiah Biddle, Lily Cox-Skall, Matthew Egeler, Nicole Egeler, Elise Englert, Benjamin Goff, Nisarg Mehta, Laetitia Pascal, Chuck Smith, Kate Strahl.

August 13, 2022—Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier. Julie Kentosh Lau, Leader; Sándor Lau, Assistant Leader. Tyler Bolton, Mario DeSimone, Benjamin Hutt, Michael Thomas.

August 15, 2022—Beacon Rock, Southeast Corner. Suresh Singh, Leader; Pushkar Dixit, Assistant Leader. Brad Dewey, Massimiliano Gallo, Linda Musil, Adriana Vintila.

August 19, 2022—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Gary Bishop, Leader; Kevin Mehlbrech, Assistant Leader. Joey Cole, Julie Lay, Noah Levinson, Jeremy Luedtke, Sharon Selvaggio.

August 20, 2022—Mt. Stuart, West Ridge. Aimee Diane Filimoehala, Leader; Andrew Leaf, Assistant Leader. Pam Bishop, Defne Cakin, Brinda Ganesh, Evan Smith.

August 20, 2022—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Christine Troy, Leader; Ann Caplan, Assistant Leader. Kassy Delgado, Jane Hammaker, Gass Hersi, Alyssa Hervert, Chris Roberts, Ophelia Yan.

August 21, 2022—Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Christine Troy, Leader; Anupama Kurpad, Assistant Leader. Agreen Ahmadi, Cambell Boucher, Tyler Bridge, Cameron Soane.

August 21, 2022—North Sister, South Ridge. Andy A. Nuttbrock, Leader; Matt Fogarty, Assistant Leader. Peter Boag, Forest Fogarty, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Sarah Richin, Christin Ritscher, Kevin Ritscher.

August 25, 2022—Broken Top, Green Lakes. Joe Eberhardt, Leader; Duncan Hart, Assistant Leader. Justin Andrews, Brad Dewey, Andy Nyce, Lynsey Tyler, Thomas Veeman.

August 27, 2022—Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Andy A. Nuttbrock, Leader. Cambell Boucher, Marissa Burke, Elise Englert, Jack Kuo, Noah Levinson, Anthony

Pucci, Sarah Richin, Michael Schoenheit.

August 28, 2022—Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Andy A. Nuttbrock, Assistant Leader. Liam Beckman, Ann Caplan, Rachel Faulkner, Massimiliano Gallo, Alyssa Hervert, Toby Morus, Ryan Peterson, Kelsey Sullivan.

September 1, 2022—Borah Peak, Chicken Out Ridge. Trey Schutrumpf, Leader; Laetitia Pascal, Assistant Leader. Sue Dimin, Alex Lockard, Lynsey Tyler, Donna Vandall, Aaron Williamson.

September 4, 2022—South Sister, Devil's Lake. Derrick Lakeman, Leader; Sergey Kiselev, Assistant Leader. Christopher Boswell, Marcus Dietlmeier, Kristi Easterlin, Elizabeth Reed, James Taylor.

September 11, 2022—Mt. Hood (Wy'east), Eliot Glacier Tour. Andrew Bodien, Leader; Kevin Ritscher, Assistant Leader. Peter Boag, Rick Busing, Toby Contreras, Alex Kunsevich, Kristina Prosser, Grant Schoepper, Mark Stave, Christine Troy.

September 16, 2022—Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Duncan Hart, Lisa Ripps, Co-leaders. Peter Boag, Lindsay Higa, Jonathan Shaver, Rob Sinnott.

September 24, 2022—Castle & Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader; Brendan Scanlan, Assistant Leader. Eloise Bacher, Anna Feigum, Heather Johnston, Dylan Pickford, Dziugas Radzius, Kevin Ritscher, Vivian Ton.

September 24, 2022—Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Darren Ferris, Leader; Brinda Ganesh, Assistant Leader. Walt Benz, Drew Dykstra, Mari Fehér, Jack Kuo, James Taylor. September 24, 2022—Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Jourdan Carboy, Brian Hodakievic, Dzmitry Lebedzeu, Daniel Miller.

September 24, 2022—Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Matthew Sundling, Leader. Agreen Ahmadi, Brad Dewey, Nicole Egeler, Lauren Schroff, Cameron Soane.

September 25, 2022—Eagle/Chutla/ Wapenayo Scramble. Tim Scott, Leader; Eloise Bacher, Assistant Leader. Anna Feigum, Heather Johnston, Dylan Pickford, Dziugas Radzius, Kevin Ritscher, Brendan Scanlan, Vivian Ton.

September 25, 2022—Mt. Bailey. Bob Breivogel, Leader. Brian Hodakievic, Daniel Miller.

September 28, 2022—Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Lisa Ripps, Duncan Hart, Co-leaders. Brad Dewey, Vlad Lobanov, Jonathan Shaver, Richard Smith, Lynsey Tyler.

A TIME T0 CELEBRATE!

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

OnThursday, September 15, 2022, over 110 Mazamas gathered on the 18th floor of the Broadway building in downtown Portland for the first Mazama Volunteer Appreciation event in two years. The space, generously donated by the law firm of Markowitz Herbold, had sweeping views of downtown and the Portland metropolitan area. On the outdoor patio, guests enjoyed beer and wine donated by Oakshire Brewing and Underwood Winery.

Indoors, guests enjoyed appetizers provided by Elephants Delicatessen while visiting with fellow members and watching a slideshow of images submitted by our community. In an effort to reduce our waste footprint, while providing volunteers with an appreciation gift, all attendees received a stainless steel Kleen Kanteen pint glass emblazoned with the Mazama logo. The event, and the Kleen Kanteen pint glasses, were made possible by a generous gift from the estate of Mazama climb leader Yun Long Ong.

Following an hour of social time, Mazama Secretary Greg Scott kicked off the official program. Following some general remarks, Greg introduced Scott Stevenson, Trail Trips Chair, who acknowledged Bob Smith for 14 years of Mazama Ramble leadership and Tom Guyot for leading over 1,000 Mazama Rambles. Scott then awarded the Hardesty Cup, the Trail Trips highest award, to Rick Craycraft.

Above: Mazama members gather around George Cummings. Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

Scott was followed to the podium by Guy Wettstein, Climbing Committee Chair, who acknowledged the awardees of the Guardian Peaks, Oregon Cascades, and Northwest 16 Peaks Awards. Mazama President Jesse Applegate then took the stage to introduce Robert Lockerby as the organization's most recent Honorary Member. Greg Scott returned to announce Matthew Sundling as the 2022 Alfred Parker Cup recipient, before introducing Aimee Filimoehala. Aimee introduced the newly created Yun Long Ong Mazama Mentorship Award that posthumously went to Yun Long Ong. Interspersed among the program were over a dozen raffle prizes donated by Snow Peak, Mountain Shop, The Circuit Bouldering Gym, Leki, and Grivel.

For more information on the Honorary Member, Parker, Hardesty, and Mentorship awards, see the accompanying articles.

on next page

Clockwise from top left: Rahul Jain and Rosemary Prescott, Matt Sundling and Aimee Filimoehala; Tom Wrona and Natalie Linton; Tom Guyot and Lisa Ripps; Tim Scott, Joe Eberhart, and Ryan Reed; Maxine Schwartz, Walter Keutel, and Tom Davidson; Scott Auble. Photos by Teresa Dalsager.

HONORARY MEMBER: ROBERT LOCKERBY

BobLockerby joined the Mazamas in 1981. A short two weeks after joining, Bob, a professional librarian at Portland State University, was recruited by Gary Beyl to help reinvigorate the Mazama Library Committee. In 1984, Bob added subject headings for all the books in the library’s card catalog, greatly increasing access and findability in the library.

Three years later, in 1987, Bob began the lengthy process of creating computerized records for all the library’s holdings. In 1990, Bob, along with fellow librarian Virginia Seiser, published “Mountaineering and Mountain Club Serials: A Guide to English Language Titles,” a comprehensive accounting of the holdings of all the major mountaineering libraries in the United States. In 1994, Bob began his most ambitious project to date, a complete index of the Mazama Annual from 1894 to 1994. Completed in 1996, the index was printed in a limited run. In 1999, Bob was hired as the first paid librarian in the Mazama Library’s long history. And more recently, Bob has begun yet another ambitious project, a comprehensive index of the Mazama Bulletin from 1923 to the present.

In 1990, Bob earned the Oregon Cascades Award for climbing the seven Oregon peaks. He’s been a climb leader and a BCEP

and ICS instructor. He’s served on the Library, Risk Management, Trail Trips, and Capital Campaign Committees, as well as on the Facilities Task Force.

In 2007, Bob received the Parker Cup for his efforts in creating the library space in the MMC. He, along with Tom Dinsmore, founded Old Goats Construction to do a lot of the work of turning the downstairs of the new building into a space for the library and historical collections. Bob then organized the logistics of moving from the previous library space, installed shelving, and built tables and cabinets. In 2010, Bob received the Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award in recognition of his more than fifteen years of continuous active participation, outstanding leadership, and substantial service to the Mazamas.

Bob’s efforts, from cataloging over 5,000 titles in the Mazama Library to his efforts to index the Annual and Bulletin have, without a doubt, done much to increase access to the valuable information held in the library. The indexes he’s produced are used every day by researchers, members, and the Mazama staff. It is no exaggeration to say that due to his efforts, numerous publications exist today because of the work he’s done to make information easily accessible. The Mazama Library is what it is today in no small part because of his work. We can think of no one more deserving of honorary membership than Bob Lockerby.

by Mathew Brock, Rick Craycraft, and Jeff Thomas

Left to right: Terri Cummings, Robert Lockerby, and Josh Lockerby. Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

ALFRED PARKER CUP: MATTHEW SUNDLING

by Greg Scott, Mazama Board Secretary

Therecipient of the 2021 Alfred Parker Cup was Matthew Sundling. The Parker Cup was established in 1925 at the annual meeting by then-outgoing Mazama President Alfred Parker. This award, viewed by many as the organization's most prestigious, was established to recognize those members who have distinguished themselves by hard work, ability, and self-sacrifice for the benefit of the Mazamas.

Matthew Sundling is the embodiment of that hard work, ability, and self-sacrifice. Matthew has always been willing to jump in and fix a problem when he sees it. As a result, there are very few programs he has not touched.

Not only that, he has been the prime mover for the Mountain Education Alliance’s (MEA, a partnership between the Mazamas, AAC, Colorado Mountain Club, The Mountaineers, and Appalachian Mountain Club) efforts to develop the Mountain LEAD (Leadership Education and Development) standards.

Mountain LEAD standards are designed to improve the quality and consistency of volunteer-based climbing education throughout the United States. These guidelines were developed in consultation with the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) and adhere to the most rigorous safety specifications. Mountain LEAD certification also establishes best practices for leadership development, inclusion, and personal safety.

Matthew’s work has not only established credibility for the Mazamas through the process of working with our partner organizations, but also credibility for the entire United States. Our partners refer to the standards as the Mazama Handbook because of his work. Those standards are now being finalized for a UIAA audit being scheduled for next year, positioning the Mazamas to become a provider of this certification in the future.

Matthew Sundling holding the Alfred Parker Cup. Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

MAZAMA MENTORSHIP AWARD: YUN LONG ONG

WILLIAM HARDESTY CUP: RICK CRAYCRAFT

by Aimee Filimahala

by Scott Stevenson, Trail Trips Committee Chair

Established

in 2021, the Yun Long Ong Mazama Mentorship Award is given to the Mazama who best exemplifies Long’s spirit of mentorship in the Mazama community through positivity, humility, and humor.

The awardee is selected by the Mazama Board of Directors (Executive Council) and presented annually. Named after Yun Long Ong, who with his characteristic good humor and positive attitude led climbs of all major 16 peaks in just two years, all while fighting cancer. The 2021 Yun Long Ong Mazama Mentorship Award was awarded posthumously to Yun Long Ong, and accepted by Long’s husband, Bill Bowling.

The2021 recipient of the Hardesty Cup is Rick Craycraft. The William P. Hardesty Leadership Cup is presented by the Trail Trips Committee to the Mazama who best exemplifies the spirit of volunteerism and service to the hiking community.

The committee awards this honor to a currently active member with the highest lifetime leadership points in Trail Trip events. Points are awarded forleading hikes and rambles, tending trails, and volunteering on the Trail Trips Committee.

Rick Craycraft joined the Mazamas in 1988 and began leading hikes in 1991. Over the intervening 31 years, Rick has led 150 hikes. Rick earned his 16 Northwest Peaks award in 1994 and has over 400 summits, including 49 of the state high points, to his credit.

Bill Bowling, Long's husband, holding Yun Long Ong's awards.

Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

Rick Craycraft holding the Hardesty Cup. Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

TRAIL TRIPS COMMITTEE AWARDS

14 Years of Mazama Ramble Leadership

Robert "Bob" Smith

1,000 Mazama Hike Leads

Tom Guyot

75 Mazama Hike Leads

Larry Solomon

Tom Jones

100 Mazama Hike Leads

Bill Stein

CLIMBING COMMITTEE AWARDS

Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award

2021

Richard Caldwell

Richard Bronder 2022

George Cummings

John Meckel

The Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award is presented by the Climbing Committee to an outstanding climb leader with 15 or more years of continuous active participation, outstanding leadership, and substantial service to the Mazamas.

Oregon Cascade Peaks Awardees

Marty Hinkle

Kerry Loehr

Ian McCluskey

Long Ong

Travis Schweitzer

Greg Scott

Kristofel Simbajon

Awarded for successfully summitting Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, North Sister, Middle Sister, and South Sister on official Mazama climbs.

5-Point Leadership Award

■ Yun Long Ong

Greg Scott

10-Point Leadership Award

■ Yun Long Ong

Greg Scott

Joe Leuthold Award

2022

■ Yun Long Ong

The Leuthold Award was established in 1964 in honor of its first recipient, Joe Leuthold. The award is for a high standard of leadership, devotion to climbing, and service to the Mazamas. The recipient must have successfully led official Mazama climbs of all 16 major northwest peaks and contributed many hours of leadership to other Mazama activities. It is seldom awarded and cannot be applied for.

16 Northwest Peaks Awardees

■ Marty Hinkle

■ Travis Schweitzer

■ Greg Scott

Successfully summitting Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, North Sister, Middle Sister, South Sister, and Mt. Shasta on official Mazama climbs.

Innovation in Education

2020

■ David Posada 2021

Leora Gregory

The Innovation in Education Award is presented to the Mazama who led the greatest advancement in our educational programs over the past year. The first award given in 2013.

Guardian Peaks Awardees

■ Lindsey Addison

Jeremiah Biddle

Eric Cross

Ralph Daub

Maheesha De Silva

Keving Kohberger

Alex Lockard

Ian McCluskey

Forest Menke-Thielman

■ Thomas Miller

■ Prajwal Mohan

■ Rick Norwood

■ Stacey Reding

■ Angelika Schaefer

■ Nicole Seals

■ Greg Simons

■ Dawn Van Seggen

■ Guy Wettstein

■ Thomas Williams

15-Point Leadership Award

■ Greg Scott

These awards are given for the leadership of successful ascents on the 16 Major Peaks.

Awarded for successfully summitting Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Adams on official Mazama climbs.

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, & EVENTS

FIRST AID: STOP THE BLEED MAZAMA BACKCOUNTRY SKI TOURING

DATE: FEBRUARY 9, 2023

REGISTRATION OPENS: JANUARY 2, 2023 COST: $55 TIME: 5:30–7:30 P.M.

STREET RAMBLES

DATES: JAN. 4–FEB. 22, 2023

REGISTRATION OPENS: NOVEMBER

REGISTRATION CLOSES: DECEMBER 11

COST: TBD

Are you a resort skier who dreams of accessing endless powder and uncrowded slopes? Or a mountaineer who’s tired of walking down mountains while others glide by having fun? Then the Mazama Backcountry Ski Touring class is a perfect fit for you! The class teaches uphill travel, identification of avalanche terrain, tour planning, and many other skills necessary to be a proficient backcountry skier. Applications for the upcoming year stay open until December 11. Details and dates for the class can be found on the Backcountry Ski Touring’s webpage, at mazamas.org/backcountryskitouring.

There will be a $55 charge for the course, which includes a tourniquet. In this course, there will be a formal presentation at the MMC followed by hands-on practice of applying direct pressure, packing a wound, and using a tourniquet to stop bleeding. With three quick actions, you can be trained to save a life. The number one cause of preventable death after injury is bleeding.

FIRST AID: EPI PEN TRAINING

DATE: DECEMBER 6

REGISTRATION OPENS: OCTOBER 25

In the backcountry, there is no other treatment for anaphylaxis than epinephrine. Time matters and 15 minutes can save someone's life. Students will attend a classroom-based course in the MMC, taught by a Wilderness Medicine Institute fellowship physician. Upon completion of this course, participants will be issued a Statement of Completion card, signed by the instructor. If the participants want to obtain an epinephrine autoinjector from a pharmacy, they need to have the back of the Statement of Completion card, which is the prescription, signed by the instructor physician. Pharmacists are instructed to look for these yellow cards, and only these cards, when filling prescriptions. Please note, persons trained in this course attempting to obtain epinephrine from the pharmacy are responsible for all costs associated with the medication, not the Mazamas.

Going on a Street Ramble is one of the best ways to get an introduction to the Mazama hiking program. Meet other hikers and plan a weekend trip, maintain your fitness after work, and see some hidden parts of Portland you might never get to see otherwise. Interested in joining us? All you need to do is show up, check in, pay, and be ready to go at 6 p.m. We'll see you there!

We operate Tuesday and Thursday night Street Rambles year-round from REI in the Pearl District (NW Portland).

More info at mazamas.org/rambles.

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

THE ROUTE AHEAD

Getting to the trailhead

NOV. 1, 2022–JAN. 31, 2023

» Voting on amended and restated Mazama Bylaws

WHAT DOES THE MAZAMAS NEED TO ACHIEVE ITS GOALS?

by Greg Scott, Mazama President

TheMazamas is a mountaineering institution.

But like most organizations that experience “institution” status, the Mazamas has not kept up with the times and is on a trajectory to become a dying organization. At best, it is becoming irrelevant to the growing community of climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. We have the historic opportunity to renew the Mazamas and make changes that both better meet the needs of a broader community, and help the organization become more solvent. In addition to its values, the things that made the Mazamas an institution are its community, its history, and its leadership opportunities. While summiting a glaciated peak may have brought commonality, it did not define how we became a community, how we left our mark on mountaineering, and how our leaders guided this institution to this moment in our long history.

Trailhead to basecamp

JAN. 31, 2023–SPRING 2023

» Hiring an executive director

THE ROUTE AHEAD

Over the next 14 pages of the bulletin you will find two articles, by incoming Mazamas president Greg Scott and by the Stoel Rives law firm, laying out the rationale for changing the Mazamas operational bylaws. Beginning on page 26 we present the full text of the Proposed Bylaws. Please review this special section, as well as the Interim Executive Director’s Message on page 7, to understand the critical issues facing our organization and the proposed path forward as a nonprofit organization.

» President’s Message, page 18

» Stoel Rives memo: Mazama Bylaws, page 22

» Proposed Bylaws, page 26

For more information check out mazamas.org/ routeahead.org.

Basecamp to the summit

»

sustainability

To paraphrase the original charter, the Mazamas set for themselves four goals:

■ The exploration of snow-capped peaks and other mountains;

■ To collect scientific knowledge about the mountain environment;

■ To preserve the natural beauty of the forests and mountains;

■ And to share all that knowledge around the Pacific Northwest.

The Mazama mission is the same today, “To inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains.” In addition to recognizing the need to serve and support a broad and diverse community, the world around us has also changed and the Mazamas need to renew to survive. Many of the national forests we operate in did not exist in 1894. Nor did Oregon Revised Statutes. Just in the last twenty years, a dozen

town hall meetings to discuss the future of the Mazamas. Based on feedback from the membership, the EC determined it was necessary to reflect on the current bylaws. Based on the results of the last election, the EC was wary of reopening old wounds. However, the board knew it was nearly impossible to discuss any of P2P’s recommendations without recognizing our bylaws are the foundation for addressing any of them. The EC sought legal advice and recommendations from Stoel Rives. In consultation with P2P, our interim director, Kaleen Deatherage, our legal counsel, and the EC decided to request from counsel a complete rewrite of the existing bylaws resulting in proposed Amended and Revised Bylaws (see page 26). In addition to beginning to address the recommendations, the proposed bylaws will help the Mazamas:

■ Attract capable experienced leadership

■ Stabilize and strengthen our finances

■ Adapt to the changing world around us

All three of these goals are intertwined and are necessary first steps to follow through with positioning the Mazamas for an effective and sustainable leadership model going forward.

qualifying glaciated peaks have dropped from the Mazama rolls. The problem we immediately face is we are not positioned to attract new leadership and we lack a common vision, both of which are vital to a sustainable financial future. In December 2021, Page Two Partners (P2P) conducted a focused organizational assessment of the Mazamas. The purpose of the assessment was “to identify broad organizational strengths and challenges and provide recommendations to help position the organization for an effective and sustainable leadership model going forward.” P2P made 11 recommendations to guide the Executive Council. Following this assessment, the Executive Council (EC) prioritized five of these recommendations and held continued on next page

Attract Capable Experienced Leadership

The problem:

■ The Mazamas have not had a permanent executive director for over two years.

■ Before we can even begin the search for a new executive director, we need to be an organization that attracts capable and experienced candidates.

■ The current bylaws do not give an executive director any authority or guidance to manage the organization. Because of this, it is doubtful the type of candidate we need will be attracted to our organization.

Path Created by Proposed Bylaws:

■ The proposed bylaws allow the board to hire a executive director with CEO level duties.

■ The proposed bylaws send a signal that the Mazamas are working toward a sustainable future and are a worthy investment.

■ An experienced candidate will design and implement a staff structure that will protect our investments and reduce costs, while at the same time identifying new revenue streams.

Stabilize and Strengthen Our Finances

The problem:

■ The Mazamas are operating in a deficit and at the current pace of spending, it’s a matter of 3–4 years before we need to make the difficult decision to close our doors. Costs have been cut to a point that threatens the quality

of our programs and member experiences.

■ The current bylaws are a barrier to growth because they require the entire membership to vote on bylaws changes, including those that affect financial decisions such as adjusting our fee structure.

■ The glaciated peak membership requirement cuts the Mazamas off from millions of grant dollars and threatens our 501(c)(3) status.

Path Created by Proposed Bylaws:

■ The proposed bylaws expand the board and allow for the recruitment of a broader set of skills that will enhance development, investment, and fiscal conservatism.

■ The proposed bylaws eliminate the requirement that all members vote on changes to the bylaws, which will give flexibility to a new board and an executive director to respond to emerging issues, preserve our investments, and explore alternative revenue sources such as external grants.

■ The proposed bylaws shift the Mazama fiscal year from October to September, to a calendar year, allowing for easier budgeting and planning.

grant proposals and require organizations to not only remove barriers to membership (such as the glaciated peak requirement), but to address diversity, equity, and inclusion in their organization by demonstrating, among other things, that the organization has a diverse board of directors.

■ The U.S. Forest Service is increasing its scrutiny of nonprofit outdoor organizations, such as the Mazamas, requiring the board to consider exploring and implementing alternative fee structures. The current bylaws prevent the board from exploring and implementing alternative fee structures because they require a vote of the membership to change membership fees, and the glaciated peak membership requirement eliminates flexibility in how the Mazamas conducts business in national forests. For more on this, see "National Forest Permits" on page 32.

Adapt to the Changing World Around Us

The problem:

■ The current bylaws do not conform to Oregon Revised Statutes and Federal IRS standards.

■ Both private and public foundations have changed their requirements for funding

■ The Mazamas is a partner organization in multiple national efforts including the Mountaineering Education Alliance (MEA). The Mazamas is one of the original partners in the MEA, which is working on a first-of-its-kind national UIAA certification for volunteer training in the United States. The Mazamas has been a key player in bringing credibility to this process. Other alliances that the Mazamas is considering joining work to provide an important voice in public land and conservation policy, which directly impacts when and how we can operate in the outdoors. The Mazamas will lose a seat at the table because the current bylaws threaten the 501(c) (3) status of partner organizations currently allied with the Mazamas.

Path Created by Proposed Bylaws:

■ The proposed bylaws will bring the organization into legal compliance by removing provisions not typical of bylaws that can be made into policies, such as membership levels and

President's Message, continued from previous page.

who is covered by insurance indemnification. This gives the board more flexibility in making changes to these policies if needed in the future.

■ The proposed bylaws will eliminate future concerns from partner organizations about their 501(c) (3) status and allow the Mazamas to continue collaborating to influence national standards for volunteer training and public land and conservation policy.

■ The proposed bylaws will open the Mazamas up to revenue streams that can address immediate capital projects (e.g. replacement of the lodge roof) and allow the membership to continue to enjoy affordable benefits.

■ The proposed bylaws will provide a pathway to cost reduction through property tax exemptions not being realized under our current structure.

WHAT IS IT TIME FOR US TO LET GO OF?

The Glaciated Peak Requirement

The Mazamas became an institution despite its membership requirement, not because of it. This is evidenced by the variety of programming the Mazamas have offered over the last century that goes well beyond summiting a glaciated peak. Look no further than the thousands of street ramblers who would support the Mazama mission, or the graduates of the Family Mountaineering 101 program that, despite having equivalent skills to Basic Climbing Education Program graduates, do not have an equal path to membership.

Membership Controlled Organization

The bylaws were codified at a time when the founders did not contemplate having potentially thousands of members. Nor could they have conceived of the internet. In a world of constant change, it has become impractical, if not impossible to nimbly conduct business that requires a 2/3 vote from the membership for bylaws amendments. Virtually no 501(C)(3) exists today with as many members as the Mazamas that has an equivalent requirement.

HOW DO WE LET THOSE THINGS GO?

The Glaciated Peak Society

With these proposed bylaws the Mazamas will introduce the Glaciated Peak Society (GPS). The only requirements for membership will be you must be a Mazama member in good standing, and you must have climbed a glaciated peak. This will acknowledge and preserve the long tradition of recognizing those who have experienced the top of a glaciated peak.

Members Still Get a Say

Although it is not a typical feature of modern non-profit bylaws, Mazama members will still be able to vote for prospective board members, making the majority of the board elected representatives. Members will also be able to vote to remove board members, and vote on any bylaws amendments that impact member rights and major organizational decisions such as a merger, dissolution, or sale, lease, conveyance, exchange, or other disposition of substantially of all Mazama property.

In addition, advisory committees will encourage the membership to engage with the board, creating a more horizontal organizational structure. This has the potential to increase representation and broaden the diversity of opinions and experience available to the board to support initiatives and programming that advance our commitment to diversity, equity, inclusion, and belonging, support our 501(c) (3) status, and increase our financial security.

A vote to approve the proposed bylaws shows a commitment to renewing the Mazamas, maintaining the organization, and preserving its history.

MEMO: MAZAMA BYLAWS

Review and assessment of Mazama Bylaws and governance structure

by Jenny Baer Tuohy, Stoel Rives LLP

TheMazama Board of Directors asked me to review and assess the bylaws and governance structure of the Mazamas, an Oregon public benefit nonprofit corporation that is recognized by the IRS as a 501(c)(3) public charity. In this memo, I address the ways in which the current Mazama Bylaws and governance structure may be out of step with current practices with other 501(c)(3) organizations, run discordant with Oregon’s current nonprofit laws and IRS guidance, and pose potential governance and conflict of interest risks. To remedy these issues, I would advise the Mazamas amend its bylaws as discussed in this memo.

Importance of Bylaws and Governance Maintenance

The Mazamas last updated its bylaws in 2017, though the structure and basic principles appear to be much older. It is important for the Mazamas to keep its bylaws in step with current laws and best practices for many reasons, including the following:

■ Maintenance of Tax-Exempt Status. The IRS recognizes the Mazamas as a tax-exempt 501(c)(3) public benefit nonprofit organization. In order to maintain this status, it is important that the Mazamas continues to keep good governance practices and operate exclusively in furtherance of its nonprofit mission, as described to the IRS as to “promote mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the exploration and protection of mountain environments.” Nonprofit 501(c)(3) organizations must operate exclusively for a public benefit and are prohibited from conferring significant benefits upon any private individuals or groups of individuals. It is important that the Mazama governance documents accurately reflect the operation of the Mazamas for the benefit of the public and not for the benefit of its members or any other private individuals.

■ Conformity with Current Oregon Law. Nonprofit organizations in Oregon are governed by the Oregon Nonprofit Corporation Act. The Act was revised by the Oregon Legislature in 2020 and, while organizations are not required to update their bylaws when the statute is updated, we recommend that nonprofits do so to ensure that practices are conforming with the current Oregon law. There are a number of provisions in the amended Act that provide organizations with increased flexibility and assist in good governance practices.

■ Avoiding Confusion and Internal Disputes. It is important for nonprofit organizations to have clearly written and easily digestible bylaws. Nonprofit organizations should be able to refer to their bylaws for clear answers to a number of corporate governance questions, ranging from the manner of notice that must be given prior to a meeting to quorum requirements for passing measures. A lack of clarity can lead to internal and

external disputes over procedural or substantive matters. The current Mazama Bylaws are relatively unclear and difficult to interpret, particularly as compared to other organizations of similar size and sophistication. As discussed in more detail below, there is a lack of clarity in some major provisions such as quorum requirements and director roles. Some terminology in the bylaws is also confusing—for example, all Oregon nonprofit organizations are required to have a board of directors, but the current bylaws instead call this governing body the “executive council.” The level of authority of the board is also vague and unclear, which runs counter to Oregon law. This lack of clarity increases the chance that the organization will be out of compliance with its own bylaws, potentially invalidating actions. It also leads to an increased risk of internal disputes over governance procedures.

■ Maintaining Compliance with Bylaws. It is important for a nonprofit organization to be operating in compliance with its bylaws. However, the Mazama Bylaws include a number of outdated provisions, compliance with which may pose a challenge. One example is that the bylaws do not provide for electronic board or member meetings and contemplate only in-person meetings. The Mazama Bylaws should reflect the organization’s current and anticipated future governance practices and be a living document setting forth corporate procedures with which the organization complies.

Proposed Amended and Restated Bylaws

We propose that the Mazamas adopt the restated bylaws (see page 26) to bring its governance structure up to date and into compliance with current nonprofit law and best practices. The proposed restated bylaws are based on the current Mazama Bylaws and are tailored to the organization's needs and structure, but they track the current Oregon nonprofit law. Restating the bylaws in their entirety allows the Mazamas to go forward with a clear and concise document.

THE CHART BELOW IS A SUMMARY OF THE SIGNIFICANT CHANGES TO THE MAZAMA BYLAWS PRESENTED BY THE PROPOSED RESTATEMENT:

ISSUE CURRENT BYLAWS

Confusion of roles and responsibilities between directors/ executive council and members

Under Oregon law and IRS rules, all nonprofit organizations must be governed by a board of directors. However, the Mazama Bylaws do not clearly define the board and its role and responsibilities.

Instead, the current bylaws provide for an “executive council” and include confusing statements, implying that not all “directors” serve on the “executive council.” A board of directors is vital to the governance of a nonprofit organization and essential to its legal validity, so these confusing provisions should be cleaned up and clarified

PROPOSED RESTATED BYLAWS SECTION

“Executive council” has been replaced with a “board of directors.” Language regarding director roles and responsibilities has been clarified throughout the document. In particular, Section 4.1 provides that the board shall “exercise, or delegate…all corporate powers and shall direct the management of Mazama affairs…”

Limited board authority is contrary to Oregon law

The role of a board of directors of a nonprofit corporation is to serve as fiduciaries and steer the organization toward a sustainable future by adopting sound policies and ensuring adequate resources to further the nonprofit’s mission.

Under Oregon law, the board of directors must “exercise, or delegate … all corporate powers and shall direct the management of the corporation’s affairs” (ORS 65.301). The IRS requires that a 501(c)(3) organization have a board of directors and encourages “active and engaged” boards.

The Mazama Bylaws do not appear to acknowledge the level of authority that the board of directors holds over the organization under Oregon law and IRS rules. The description of the board’s authority in the current bylaws (to “conduct the general business of Mazamas”) is more akin to a role that one would typically see for an executive director or officer. The current bylaws further limit the board’s authority by stating that the board may “make policies and procedures that deal only with administrative matters.” It is unclear what this means, and it likely runs contrary to Oregon law.

Language has been updated throughout to clarify that the board of directors holds authority to govern the organization.

Update outdated terms and simplify document

The bylaws contain some outdated and confusing language. For example, the concept of appointing and using “tellers” for elections and the reference to Roberts Rules of Order.

The proposed bylaws present a modernized form without outdated language or references.

All sections

Memo: Bylaws,

previous

ISSUE CURRENT BYLAWS

Member authority impractical The governance rights of members in the current bylaws are impractical for an organization with over 2,000 members. Given the size of the membership base, Mazama members should be more limited as they will not be actively running the organization.

The current bylaws include multiple provisions regarding the specifics of member dues and payment. We do not recommend including this information in the bylaws, as it is unnecessary and may change from time to time.

PROPOSED RESTATED BYLAWS SECTION

The proposed restated bylaws provide that members shall have the right to vote on the election and removal of directors and significant transactions. Members do not exercise general governance over the organization—rather, members elect directors who then govern the organization.

Specifics regarding membership dues and payment have been removed from the bylaws, and the membership classes have been consolidated into a single class (the distinction between classes in the current bylaws is based on dues payments rather than governance rights, and that distinction is not necessary in the bylaws).

Section 3.3

Committee structure

Under Oregon law and IRS rules, the board may establish committees to which it delegates responsibility or that can make recommendations to the board.

Oregon’s nonprofit law does not provide for committees of members, and member committees are not able to exercise governance authority (e.g. make budgets, hire staff) without delegation by the board. The committee structure in the current bylaws is problematic because committees are not overseen by the board—they are instead self-perpetuating in that they select their own members. Although member committees may be vital for running the activities and operations of the Mazamas— they do not have governance authority over the organization and thus should be organized outside of the bylaws.

Member quorum requirement The current bylaws require five percent of the voting members for a quorum. Given the large number of members, this is a significant number of people who need to attend a meeting in order to validly take action, including on electing directors.

Check signing The current bylaws require that all checks be signed by two officerswhich can be cumbersome for smaller expenditures.

Description of membership committees has been removed from proposed bylaws— this should be included in a separate policies and procedures document that can change over time. The committee structure has been changed so that the board has oversight in the selection of members to committees. A few standing board committees have been added (executive committee, nominating committee, finance committee).

Section 4.10–4.15

To avoid a potential roadblock at a member meeting, the proposed bylaws provide that the member votes represented at a meeting constitute a quorum.

Section 3.6

The proposed restated bylaws remove the two-officer approval and provide that the board will adopt a policy regarding signing authority (e.g. approvals needed for expenditures at various dollar thresholds). The board should adopt such a policy in a separate policies and procedures document.

Section 9.3

ISSUE CURRENT BYLAWS

Clarity needed for board and member meeting procedures

The current bylaws have a single Article titled “Meetings” that covers both board and member meetings, and it is not clear what notice and other requirements apply to board versus member meetings. The current bylaws do not explicitly permit the board or members to hold remote meetings or authorize the board to take action by unanimous written consent or email (both of which are allowed under Oregon law). The current bylaws state that “electronic voting [is] permitted,” but do not elaborate on permitted procedures.

The current bylaws also contain confusing language seeming to require notice only to directors who are within a 300-mile radius of Portland, Oregon. Under Oregon law, all directors must receive notice of a meeting no matter where they reside.

Size of board The Mazama board is currently set at nine directors. We suggest that the Mazamas increase the size of the board to ensure that the board represents a sufficiently broad public interest and includes people with the required skills and resources to effectively govern the organization, which the IRS considers important for 501(c)(3) organizations.

PROPOSED RESTATED BYLAWS SECTION

The proposed restated bylaws separate the sections regarding board and member meetings and clearly state notice periods that apply. The proposed restated bylaws permit meetings to happen remotely and allow the board to act without a meeting (by unanimous written consent or email). They also remove confusing provisions, including the provision regarding giving notice to directors within a 300-mile radius of Portland.

Section 3 (Member Meetings)

Section 6 (Board Meetings)

Director nomination and election process

The bylaws provide that the Nominating Committee must nominate sufficient potential directors such that there is a contested election with six recommended candidates for three slots. This is a bit of an outdated provision and might make it more difficult to recruit interested directors who could add value to the organization if they know they will necessarily be in competition with other nominees. As mentioned above, the IRS considers it important for a 501(c) (3) board to represent a sufficiently broad public interest and the required skills and resources to effectively govern the organization—the Nominating Committee should be nominating the potential directors that it sees as best fit for the director role, as opposed to excess nominees for a contested election.

The proposed restated bylaws increase the size of the board to between nine and 13 directors.

Nine directors would be elected by the members and those people must have been Mazama members for three years. Up to four directors may be elected by the board and those persons do not need to be members. This allows the board to recruit outside talent and ensure that the board represents a sufficiently broad public interest and holds the skills and resources necessary to effectively govern the organization.

The proposed bylaws do not require director elections to be contested. As mentioned above, nine directors would be elected by the members and must have been a Mazama member for the past three years, and the board can appoint up to four directors who need not be members.

Section 4.4 (Number of Directors)

Section 4.6 (Election of Directors)

Section 4.6 (Election of Directors)

PROPOSED BYLAWS

AMENDED AND RESTATED BYLAWS OF THE MAZAMAS

SECTION 1: PURPOSE

The Mazamas is a nonprofit public benefit corporation organized and operated to engage in any lawful activity permitted by Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. In particular, the Mazamas shall promote mountaineering, climbing safety, and the exploration of the alpine environment, specifically in the Pacific Northwest, by providing educational and training opportunities related to mountaineering and the alpine environment; collecting, preserving, and disseminating scientific information, memorabilia, data ,and knowledge concerning the same; supporting the conservation and preservation of the natural environment; and providing and promoting climbing, hiking, outings, expeditions, and other activities.

SECTION 2: MEMBERSHIP

2.1 Classes of Membership.

The Mazamas shall have one class of members.

2.2 Requirements and Voting Rights.

Members may be admitted upon application and approval of the board of directors (the “board”). Any person who supports the mission of the Mazamas shall be eligible for membership. Members shall have the right to vote on only the following matters: (a) the election and removal of directors, and (b) a merger, dissolution, or sale, lease, conveyance, exchange, or other disposition of substantially all property owned by the Mazamas.

2.3 Dues.

Dues are established by the board and may include discounts or waivers for prospective members based on the status of a prospective member, including as a student, youth, or senior. Admission to and continuation of membership are contingent upon payment of dues, and any person who has not paid dues for a membership term shall automatically cease to be a member.

2.4 Transfers.

Memberships are nontransferable and shall terminate upon the death, resignation, or termination of the membership.

2.5 Suspension and Expulsion.

The board, by unanimous vote, may suspend or expel a member. Any such suspension or expulsion must be fair and reasonable and carried out in good faith, provide 15 days’ notice stating the reasons for suspension or expulsion, and provide an opportunity not less than five days before the effective date of the suspension or

expulsion for a member to be heard orally or in writing by a person authorized to withdraw the proposed suspension or expulsion.

SECTION 3: MEETINGS OF THE MEMBERS

3.1 Annual Meeting.

An annual meeting of the members shall be held during the first quarter of the year or at a time and place designated by the board. At the annual meeting, the president or other board member shall report on the activities and financial condition of the Mazamas, and the members shall consider any matter that is consistent with the description of issues to be considered in the notice for the annual meeting.

3.2 Special Meetings.

The Mazamas shall hold a special member meeting upon the call of the board or upon the request of at least five percent of the voting power of the members who sign, date, and deliver to the Mazama Secretary a written demand for the meeting and describing the purpose of the meeting. The board shall set the date of the meeting and send out notice within 30 days of the date of the written demand.

3.3 Participation.

The board may permit members to participate in an annual or special meeting by remote communication. A member participating in a meeting in accordance with this section is, for the purposes of transacting any official business, present in person at the meeting.

3.4 Notice of Meetings.

The Mazamas shall provide 10 days’ notice for all member meetings if given by first-class mail or private carrier, or seven days’ notice if delivered orally or electronically. All notices must give the date, time, and place of the meeting and a description of any matters that the members must approve. Notice for a special meeting must also include a description of the purposes for which the meeting was called.

3.5 Waiver of Notice.

A member may at any time waive any notice required by these bylaws. Except as provided in the preceding sentence, any waiver must be signed and in writing and may be a document that is transmitted electronically. A member’s attendance at or participation in a meeting waives any objection to lack of or defective notice, unless the member, at the beginning of the meeting,

objects to holding the meeting or transacting business at the meeting.

3.6 Quorum.

Unless the articles of incorporation or bylaws require a higher quorum, the votes represented at a meeting constitute a quorum. A member is considered present regardless of whether the member votes or abstains from voting.

3.7 Voting.

Unless the articles of incorporation or bylaws require a greater vote, if a quorum is present when a vote is taken, the affirmative vote of a majority of the votes that are represented at such meeting and voting at such meeting is an act of the members.

SECTION 4: DIRECTORS

4.1 Powers.

The board of directors (the “board”) shall exercise, or delegate or otherwise authorize the exercise of, all corporate powers and shall direct the management of the affairs of the Mazamas, subject to any limitation set forth in the articles of incorporation, these bylaws, and Oregon law. The board shall retain authority over an exercise of corporate powers that the board delegates or authorizes under this section.

4.2 Dissolution; Merger; Disposition of Assets.

A merger, dissolution, or sale, lease, conveyance, exchange, or other disposition of substantially all of the property owned by the Mazamas must be approved by the board of directors and the members.

4.3 Qualifications.

All directors must be individuals 18 years of age or older and must meet the qualifications described in Section 4.6. Directors need not be residents or citizens of the State of Oregon or of the United States of America.

4.4 Number.

The board shall consist of a minimum of nine and a maximum of 13 persons. The number of directors may be fixed or changed periodically within the minimum and maximum by the board.

4.5 Tenure of Office.

Directors serve for terms of three years. Directors may serve for a maximum of two consecutive terms. After at least one year off the board, a director who has previously served one or more terms under this section may be elected to a new term. The board shall arrange for terms to be staggered such that not all of the directors’ terms expire in the same year.

4.6 Election.

Nine of the directors shall be elected by members at the annual meeting of the members and shall have been a Mazama member for at least three years cumulatively.

Up to four directors may be elected by the board and need not be members.

4.7 Resignation.

A director may resign at any time by delivering written notice to the president or the secretary. A resignation is effective when notice is effective under ORS 65.034 unless the notice specifies a later effective date. Once delivered, a notice of resignation is irrevocable unless revocation is permitted by the board.

4.8 Removal.

A director may be removed, at any time, with or without cause, by majority vote of the members or by the board. In each case, the members or the board may only remove a director at a special meeting. The notice for such a meeting must state that the purpose of the meeting is to remove one or more directors.

4.9 Vacancies.

A vacancy shall exist if the actual number of directors is less than the maximum number for any reason. A vacancy on the board may be filled by election by the members or by the board pursuant to Section 4.6. The term of a director elected during the year to fill a vacancy shall begin as of the date specified in the resolution to elect the director. Each director so elected shall hold office for an initial term specified in the resolution to elect the director, in order to arrange for terms to be staggered. If the board accepts the resignation of a director tendered to take effect at a future time, a successor may be elected to take office when the resignation becomes effective.

4.10 Executive Committee.

The board shall have an executive committee, which shall be a board committee that may exercise the authority of the board as described in Section 4.12. The executive committee shall be composed of the president, vice president, immediate past president, secretary and treasurer; the board or the president may also appoint at-large directors to serve on the executive committee. Only directors shall be voting members of the executive committee. The president shall preside at the executive committee meetings. Between meetings of the board, the executive committee shall have and exercise all the authority of the board in the management of affairs of the Mazamas, except as limited by Section 4.12. At least 24 hours’ notice shall be required to convene a meeting of the executive committee.

4.11 Other Board Committees.

In addition to the executive committee, the board may create one or more board committees that exercise the authority of the board. The creation of a board committee and either the appointment of directors to the board committee or the designation of a method of continued on next page

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selecting board committee members must be approved by the board. Each board committee must consist of two or more directors, who serve at the pleasure of the board. Only a director may serve as a voting member of a board committee. Except as may be contemplated by resolution of the board, the provisions of these bylaws governing meetings, action without meetings, notice and waiver of notice, and quorum and voting requirements of the board shall apply to committees and their members as well. The board may delegate the authority of the board to a board committee; provided, however, no committee may:

■ Authorize the payment to a person from the income or assets of the Mazamas, other than a payment of reasonable value for property received or services performed or payment of benefits that further the purposes of the Mazamas;

■ Approve dissolution, merger, or the sale, pledge, or transfer of all or substantially all of the assets of the Mazamas;

■ Elect, appoint, or remove directors or fill vacancies on the board or on any board committees;

■ Adopt, amend, or repeal the articles of incorporation or bylaws; or

■ Appoint or remove officers.

4.12 Nominating Committee.

The nominating committee shall be an advisory committee of the board of directors, as described in Section 4.14, that assists the board with its governance responsibility by identifying and proposing individuals for election to the board. The nominating committee shall consist of at least two directors and the board may appoint members to serve on the nominating committee. The nominating committee shall provide the board with a list of names of persons who the nominating committee has vetted and recommends for election to the board.

4.13 Finance Committee.

The finance committee shall be an advisory committee of the board of directors, as described in Section 4.14.

The finance committee shall be composed of the treasurer and at least two other directors appointed by the president. The board may appoint additional individuals, who need not be directors, to the finance committee. The treasurer shall preside at the finance committee meetings. The finance committee shall be responsible for developing and reviewing fiscal procedures and the annual budget, which shall be presented to the board for approval.

4.14 Advisory Committees.

In addition to the nominating committee, the board may create one or more advisory committees. The board may appoint individuals to serve on an advisory committee or specify a method for selecting members.

Members of these committees need not be members of the board, but at least one director shall serve on each such committee. Advisory committees shall have no power to act on behalf of, or to exercise the authority of, the board, but may make recommendations to the board or to board committees and may implement board or board committee decisions and policies under the supervision and control of the board or a board committee.

4.15 Member Committees.

The board may create one or more committees comprised of members. The board may appoint individuals to serve on such member committees or specify a method for selecting members. Member committees shall have no power to act on behalf of, or to exercise the authority of the board, but rather shall focus on various aspects of the operation of the Mazamas in furtherance of its purpose.

4.16 Compensation.

Directors shall not be compensated for service in their capacity as directors or officers. A director may receive reimbursement of actual reasonable expenses incurred in carrying out their duties as a director.

4.17 Director Conflict of Interest.

A conflict of interest transaction is a transaction with the Mazamas in which a director of the Mazamas has a direct or indirect interest, as defined in ORS 65.361. The board shall adopt a policy that (a) requires directors, officers, and key employees to disclose any interest that constitutes or could result in a conflict of interest and (b) sets out procedures for reviewing and resolving such matters in accordance with the law.

SECTION 5: OFFICERS

5.1 Designation.

The officers of the Mazamas shall be a president, a vice president, an immediate past president, a secretary, a treasurer, and such other officers as the board shall appoint. The board shall elect the president, vice president, secretary, and treasurer from among the directors. The immediate past president shall be the person who served as president during the prior term, if that person remains on the board. The board may hire an executive director. The same individual may not serve simultaneously as president, secretary, or treasurer.

5.2 Election; Term of Office.

Officers shall be elected by the board at the annual meeting for a term of one year (or such other term as the board may designate) unless sooner removed and may be elected to any number of consecutive terms. The executive director shall serve in such office for as long as they are employed by the Mazamas as executive director.

5.3 Removal.

Any officer may be removed, either with or without cause, at any time by action of the board.

5.4 Resignation.

An officer may resign at any time by delivering notice to the board, the president, or the secretary. A resignation is effective when the notice is effective under ORS 65.034 unless the notice specifies a later effective date. If a resignation specifies a later effective date and the Mazamas accepts the later effective date, the board may fill the pending vacancy before the effective date if the board provides that the successor does not take office until the effective date. Once delivered, a notice of resignation is irrevocable unless revocation is permitted by the board.

5.5 President.

The president shall preside at meetings of the board and meetings of the members, shall serve as the president of the executive committee, shall ensure that the board is advised on all significant matters of the business of the Mazamas, shall oversee member communications, and shall be responsible for overseeing the plans and directives of the board. The president also shall have such other powers and perform such other duties as may be prescribed by the board. If the president remains on the board after their term, they shall succeed to the role of immediate past president.

5.6 Vice President.

The vice president shall preside at meetings of the board at which the president is absent and in the absence of the president shall have the other powers and perform the other duties of the president. The vice president also shall have such other powers and duties as may be prescribed by the board.

5.7 Immediate Past President.

The immediate past president, if any, shall work with the president and other officers to ensure a smooth transition and continuity of the board programs and policies. The immediate past president also may have such other powers and duties as may be prescribed by the board. If the person who served as president during the prior term no longer remains on the board, then such person may attend board meetings as a non-voting observer.

5.8 Secretary.

The secretary shall prepare minutes of meetings of the board and authenticate records of the Mazamas. The secretary shall keep or cause to be kept at the principal office or such other place as the board may order, the minutes of all board meetings. The secretary also shall have such other powers and perform such other duties as may be prescribed by the board.

5.9 Treasurer.

The treasurer shall lead the board’s oversight of the budgeting and planning process, financial performance, and financial condition of the Mazamas. The treasurer shall keep and maintain, or cause to be kept and maintained, adequate and correct books and records of accounts of the properties and business transactions of the Mazamas. The treasurer shall have such other powers and duties as may be prescribed by the board.

5.10 Executive Director.

The executive director shall serve at the pleasure of the board and shall, subject to the oversight of the board, have general supervision, direction, and control of the business and affairs and day-to-day management of the Mazamas, and shall manage the communications with members. The executive director shall have the executive powers and duties of management usually vested in the office of chief executive officer of a corporation. The executive director shall not, by virtue solely of their employment as executive director, be a member of the board, although they shall attend all board meetings unless excused by the president.

SECTION 6: MEETINGS OF THE BOARD

6.1 Meetings.

An annual meeting of the board shall be held during the first quarter of the year or at a time and place designated by the board. The board may meet as frequently as necessary to conduct business for the Mazamas, but shall meet at least quarterly. If the time and place of any other directors’ meeting is regularly scheduled by the board in a manner that informs all directors of the time and place without additional notice, the meeting is a regular meeting. All other meetings are special meetings of the board. The board may hold annual, regular, or special meetings in or out of the State of Oregon.

6.2 Participation.

The board may permit any or all of the directors to participate in an annual, regular, or special meeting by, or conduct the meeting through the use of any means of communication by which each director participating in the meeting can communicate with all of the other directors simultaneously. A director participating in a meeting in accordance with this section is, for the purposes of transacting any official business, present in person at the meeting.

6.3 Call and Notice of Meetings.

The annual meeting must be preceded by at least 10 days’ notice if given by first-class mail or private carrier, or 48 hours’ notice if delivered orally or electronically. Notice of regular meetings may be made by providing each director with the adopted schedule of regular

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meetings for the ensuing year, and without further notice of the date, time, place, or purpose of the meeting. Special meetings of the board must be preceded by at least 24 hours’ notice and must be delivered orally or electronically. All notices must give the date, time, and place of the meeting. Except as specifically provided in these bylaws or applicable law, the notice need not describe the purposes of any meeting. The president, the secretary, or one-third of the directors then in office may call and give notice of a meeting of the board.

6.4 Waiver of Notice.

A director may at any time waive any notice required by these bylaws. A director’s attendance at or participation in a meeting waives any required notice to the director of the meeting unless the director, at the beginning of the meeting or promptly upon the director’s arrival, objects to holding the meeting or transacting business at the meeting and does not thereafter vote for or assent to any action taken at the meeting. Except as provided in the preceding sentence, any waiver must be in writing and may be a document that is transmitted electronically. The waiver must be signed by the director entitled to the notice, must specify the meeting for which the notice is waived, and must be filed with the minutes or the corporate records.

6.5 Quorum.

A quorum of the board shall consist of a majority of the number of directors in office immediately before the meeting begins. A director is considered present regardless of whether the director votes or abstains from voting.

6.6 Voting.

If a quorum is present when a vote is taken, the affirmative vote of a majority of the directors present when the action is taken is the act of the board except to the extent that the articles of incorporation, these bylaws, or applicable law require the vote of a greater number of directors. Each director has one vote and may not vote by proxy.

6.7 Presumption of Assent.

A director who is present at a meeting of the board when corporate action is taken is deemed to have assented to the action taken unless:

■ The director objects at the beginning of the meeting, or promptly upon the director’s arrival, to holding the meeting or transacting the business at the meeting;

■ The director’s dissent or abstention from the action taken is entered in the minutes of the meeting; or

■ The director delivers written notice of dissent or abstention to the presiding officer of the meeting before its adjournment or the Mazamas immediately after adjournment of the meeting. The right of dissent or abstention is not available to a director who votes in favor of the action taken.

6.8 Action Without Meeting: Vote by Email.

The board may, without a meeting, use email or other electronic means to take action required or permitted to be taken at a board meeting if:

■ The Mazamas has a record of an email address for each director;

■ The Mazamas sends to the email address of each director an announcement that the board will take action, a description of the matter on which the board will take action, and a deadline of not less than 48 hours after the time the Mazamas sends the announcement in which a director may vote; and

■ The majority of directors who hold office at the time vote in the affirmative, except to the extent that the articles of incorporation, these bylaws, or applicable law require the vote of a greater number of directors. A director may change their vote at any time before the deadline set forth in the email announcement. The board’s action is effective on the deadline specified in the email announcement unless the announcement specifies a different effective date or time. The Mazamas shall include the email announcement and a record of the directors’ votes in corporate records reflecting the action that the board took.

6.9 Action Without Meeting: Unanimous Written Consent.

Any action required or permitted to be taken at a board meeting may be taken without a meeting if the action is taken unanimously by all directors. The action must be evidenced by one or more written consents describing the action taken, signed by each director, and included in the minutes or filed with the corporate records reflecting the action taken. Action taken under this section is effective when the last director signs the consent unless the consent specifies an earlier or later effective date. For purposes of this section, an affirmative email sent by a director in response to a written consent is deemed to be in writing by the director. A unanimous written consent under this section has the effect of a meeting vote and may be described as a meeting vote in any document.

SECTION 7: NONDISCRIMINATION

The Mazamas shall not discriminate in providing services, hiring employees, or otherwise, upon the basis of gender, gender identity, race, creed, marital status, sexual orientation, religion, color, age, national origin, veteran status, or disability.

SECTION 8: INDEMNIFICATION

The Mazamas shall indemnify to the fullest extent permitted by the Oregon Nonprofit Corporation Act any person who is made, or threatened to be made, a party to an action, suit, or proceeding, whether civil, criminal, administrative, investigative, or otherwise

(including an action, suit, or proceeding by or in the right of the Mazamas), by reason of the fact that the person is or was a director, officer, employee, or agent of the Mazamas. The Mazamas shall pay for or reimburse the reasonable expenses incurred by any such person in any such proceeding in advance of the final disposition after the board of directors has taken such action as required by ORS 65.404, including providing notice of the proposed indemnification to the Attorney General. No amendment to this Article that limits the obligation of the Mazamas to indemnify any person shall have any effect on such obligation for any act or omission that occurs prior to the later of the effective date of the amendment or the date notice of the amendment is given to the person. This Article shall not be deemed exclusive of any other provisions for indemnification or advancement of expenses of directors, officers, employees, agents, and fiduciaries that may be allowable under any statute, bylaw, agreement, general or specific action of the board of directors, vote of the members, or other document or arrangement.

SECTION 9: GENERAL PROVISIONS

9.1 Amendment or Restatement of Bylaws.

The board may amend or restate these bylaws by majority vote, provided, however, that any amendment of these bylaws relating to the election or removal of directors, or affecting the rights of the members must be approved by a majority vote of the members at an annual or special meeting. The date of approval of any amendment to the bylaws or a restatement of the bylaws shall be noted in the corporate records.

9.2 Inspection of Books and Records.

All books, records, and accounts of the Mazamas shall be open to inspection by the directors and members in the manner and to the extent required by law.

9.3 Checks, Drafts, Etc.

All checks, drafts, and other orders for payment of money, notes, or other evidences of indebtedness issued in the name of or payable to the Mazamas shall be signed or endorsed by such person or persons and in such manner as shall be determined from time to time by resolution of the board.

9.4 Deposits.

All funds of the Mazamas not otherwise employed shall be deposited to the credit of the Mazamas in those banks, trust companies or other depositories as the board, or officers of the Mazamas designated by the board, may select, or may be invested as authorized by the board.

9.5 Loans or Guarantees.

The Mazamas shall not borrow money and no evidence of indebtedness shall be issued in its name unless

authorized by the board. This authority may be general or confined to specific instances. Except as explicitly permitted by ORS 65.364, the Mazamas shall not make a loan, guarantee an obligation, or modify a preexisting loan or guarantee to or for the benefit of a director or officer of the Mazamas.

9.6 Execution of Documents.

The board may, except as otherwise provided in these bylaws, authorize any officer or agent to enter into any contract or execute any instrument in the name of and on behalf of the Mazamas. Such authority may be general or confined to specific instances. Unless so authorized by the board, no officer, agent, or employee shall have any power or authority to bind the Mazamas by any contract or engagement, or to pledge its credit, or to render it liable for any purpose or for any amount.

9.7 Insurance.

The Mazamas may purchase and maintain insurance on behalf of an individual against liability asserted against or incurred by the individual who is or was a director, officer, employee, or agent of the Mazamas, or who, while a director, officer, employee, or agent of the Mazamas, is or was serving at the request of the Mazamas as a director, officer, partner, trustee, employee, or agent of another foreign or domestic business or nonprofit corporation, partnership, joint venture, trust, employee benefit plan, or other enterprise; provided, however, that the Mazamas may not purchase or maintain such insurance to indemnify any director, officer, or agent of the Mazamas in connection with any proceeding charging improper personal benefit to the director, officer, or agent in which the director, officer, or agent was adjudged liable on the basis that personal benefit was improperly received by the director, officer, or agent.

9.8 Fiscal Year.

As of the date of the adoption of these bylaws, the fiscal year of the Mazamas shall begin on the first day of October and end on the last day of September in each year. Beginning on January 1, 2024, the fiscal year of the Mazamas shall begin on the first day of January and end on the last day of December each year.

9.9 Severability.

A determination that any provision of these bylaws is for any reason inapplicable, invalid, illegal, or otherwise ineffective shall not affect or invalidate any other provision of these bylaws.

The Mazama Board of Directors approved a motion to accept and forward to the membership, for a vote, the preceding, restated bylaws on September 28, 2022.

NATIONAL FOREST PERMITS

by Claire Tenscher and Greg Scott

If you attended the annual meeting in October, you likely heard that we are restricted from climbing and hiking in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. We want to demystify this for the membership and explain what the Mazamas is doing to resolve the issue.

This concern first came to our attention in July of 2022 when a Gifford Pinchot Forest Land Manager approached Greg Scott—now our board president—at the Trout Lake Ranger Station while the latter was preparing to climb Mt. Adams. The land manager asked Greg if the Mazamas had a permit to guide climbs on Mt. Adams. Because the Mazamas was leading a climb, listing it on our website, and charging a fee, we looked, to that land manager, like a guide service. Guide services must have a permit under special-use requirements.

This was a surprise to staff and climb leadership because this requirement had not been applied to the Mazamas outside of Mt. Hood National Forest in the recorded history of the organization. Although the land manager allowed Greg’s climb

to proceed, he asked that the Mazamas not lead any more climbs on Mt. Adams this season. In order to go ahead with the other Mt. Adams climb scheduled for the season, Interim Executive Director Kaleen Deatherage reached out to the official and asked that in exchange for removing the fee, we be allowed to lead this one climb as planned. The land manager agreed that if we refunded everyone who paid for the climb, it could proceed. He also informed Kaleen and Greg that, “moving forward, [the USFS] plan to conduct a use analysis later this year which will ultimately determine how much O[utfitting]&G[uide] activities will be allowed in any given area. Hopefully it will be done in time for next season, so let’s stay in touch regarding your proposed use. Just know that the

Above: Washington State's National Forests.

Image courtesy of the United States Forest Service.

current moratorium is for all new uses in Wilderness areas on the Gifford Pinchot, not just Mt. Adams.”

The Mazamas then made the difficult decision of discontinuing activities in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest for the season. As a temporary policy, the climb or hike leaders who planned to lead something in this forest had the option to proceed with those activities; however, the activities were no longer listed on our website and the Mazamas did not receive any revenue from those hikes and climbs. If we had thought this would be confined to Gifford Pinchot, we would soon learn differently.

We received official cease and desist letters from Inyo National Forest, where the John Muir Wilderness is located, after

an outing in that area was added to the website, and a week later from BakerSnoqualmie National Forest. In the eyes of these forests’ land managers, we were running a commercial activity requiring an entry fee and would need to apply for a special-use permit or cancel the rest of our activities in these areas. For the John Muir Wilderness Outing, our fee was only $10 per day, but the amount was irrelevant. Further complicating the process, this land manager informed us that in addition to requiring special-use permits, being seen as a guide service means we must apply for a limited number of guide "slots" annually, and in popular regions like the Sierras, these were claimed early in the year.

Having a direct conversation with the land managers in Gifford Pinchot and Inyo led to the Mt. Adams climb and the John Muir trip proceeding as planned, albeit without revenue for the Mazamas, as we were required to refund the participants. However, Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie land managers were not immediately comfortable with this proposal. They needed us to apply for a special-use permit, which requires us to submit an operating plan, a trailhead map, insurance info, name all leaders, and complete an affirmation of first aid. In the meantime, we extended our temporary policy to that area; if leaders wanted to proceed with scheduled climbs or hikes, they could do so, but these activities were considered canceled, and the Mazamas did not collect any fees. Although the Mazamas submitted the paperwork to Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie in late August, we have yet to receive any response from this national forest.

Gifford Pinchot and Mt. BakerSnoqualmie Forests include Mt. Adams, Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, and the Goat Rocks, to name a few. Among these are our most commonly climbed peaks and peaks required for treasured awards like the Guardian Peaks and the 16 Northwest Peaks. Ironically, there are two glaciers in the Pacific Northwest named after the Mazamas (Mt. Baker and Mt. Adams) and they are in forests where we cannot currently operate. Losing access to these specific forests, where our most popular climbs are located, threatens the viability of the Mazamas.

In order to understand what’s going on, we reached out to former Mazama Education and Activities Program Manager, Justin Rotherham, who was involved in the negotiation of our Mt. Hood special-use permit. His current role is program director at a guide service managing relationships with various land managers in multiple national forests, national parks, and state agencies in Oregon, Washington, Alaska, Utah, Wyoming, and Canada. What we learned from Justin was each land manager has their own style, interpretation, and application of policies.

Land managers in the national forests operate with some autonomy. While they are all working off one set of Forest Service policies and regulations, they may interpret or execute against them differently, depending on what is impacting their forest (e.g. recreation, timber harvesting, hunting, forest fires). In some areas they may see these regulations as applying only to hunting guides, some don’t dedicate resources to enforcing the policy, and others do not see what the Mazamas offer as guiding.

We can’t know exactly why these forests are looking at us now, but we can infer some things. As a result of the pandemic, there was an extreme increase in the use of public lands. Land managers for the forests cannot easily track how their forests are being used because of the sheer number of entry points, but they need these statistics to make cases for increased funding. Permits help land managers track how the forests are being utilized. We firmly believe this is not about preventing access, but is symptomatic of reduced funding for the U.S. Forest Service. The land managers recognize the benefit of having trained organized groups utilizing public lands and the stewardship the Mazamas provides to their forests. It does have the unintended consequence of asking more from the more organized groups.

The Mazamas already hold a specialuse permit for Mt. Hood; we’ve had a conditional-use permit since the late 90s and have operated under a guide permit since the late 2000s. In 2017, the Mt. Hood National Forest land manager worked with us to negotiate a 10-year special-use permit, to make the process easier for both parties and allow us to avoid applying

annually. This land manager is also who we work with on our, separate, lodge permit. As part of the conditions of the Mt. Hood use permit we have to track how many “heartbeats”—we track individual people, but other groups must track livestock— we bring into the forest. Between climbs, hikes, and educational programming, the Mazamas is the highest user of Mt. Hood National Forest not including ski arearelated uses.

The land managers we’ve spoken to do not consider non-profits exempt from this regulation. Consider how similar organizations to the Mazamas manage similar restrictions. The Mountaineers do not charge for climbs and hikes, rather these are a benefit of membership. Members enjoy unlimited climbs and hikes for the same annual fee. While this model may allow them to avoid being seen as a commercial enterprise, they have developed and maintained relationships with federal land managers for years. We spoke to the CEO of The Mountaineers, who confirmed what Justin Rotherham told us—these are complicated relationships, and can be a full-time job for staff to ensure they abide by federal regulations. Similarly, the Colorado Mountain Club has been working for years with land managers.

The takeaway is: the Mazamas is behind on this issue. We want to reassure you, we aren’t being singled out, nor is this a plot against us, and this isn’t a new rule. We were lucky for the last few decades. These forests are asking us to get into compliance with a regulation that already exists; they are looking to better manage the land that we share. We need to look forward and comply with the operational needs of every forest in which we operate.

Relatedly, in 2021, Senator Ron Wyden co-sponsored a bipartisan bill to streamline this process, called the Recreation Not Red Tape Act. Similar legislation was proposed by Congress called the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR Act). These two bills have been combined into the bipartisan America’s Outdoor Recreation Act, which you can email your senators to support today. These proposed bills try to address the outdated, overly complex, and time-intensive process imposed on continued on next page

Permits, continued from previous page

organizations such as the Mazamas. Many outdoor retailers and national recreation groups are active in lobbying for this type of change.

Here at home, we need to act now. This will be a multiyear relationship-building process. We potentially operate in at least 17 different national forests and must work with the land managers in each of them separately. The Mazama Board of Directors formed an Access Committee to work on this during the 2022–23 winter low season. The members of the Access Committee include climb leaders, representatives from the Climbing, Hiking, and Outings Committees, and the board.

The committee will be tasked with answering the following questions and making a recommendation to the board:

■ Where does this regulation impact us?

■ What Mazama programs are impacted?

■ What should the Mazamas do to minimize the impact?

■ Who should own the relationship with the USFS going forward?

■ How can the Mazamas influence legislation to change this process?

The proposed bylaws change that will be voted on in January is crucial to this effort. Our current bylaws prevent the board from a nimble response and hamper efforts to develop policies that address how we do business in national forests. Under the current bylaws, the board cannot change fee structures without a time-intensive 2/3 membership vote. If we restructured fees so that all hikes are included in membership, the glaciated peaks requirement prohibits the public from joining us. Decreasing the barrier to entry means more people to introduce to the outdoors, more membership dues, and more activities we can run. If we keep rules in place that are meant to create an exclusive environment, like the glaciated peak requirement, we are limited in how we creatively adapt to these regulations and in how we can welcome the next generation of outdoors users.

Commercial outfitting and guiding in national forests requires a special-use permit (36 CFR 251). Conducting these activities without a permit is a violation of federal law (36 CFR 261.10C). ...

Commercial activity is defined as any use or activity on National Forest System lands (a) where an entry or participation fee is charged or (b) where the primary purpose is the sale of a good or service and, in either case, regardless of whether the use or activity is intended you produce a profit (36 CFR 251.51).

Guiding is defined as providing services or assistance (such as supervision, protection, education, training, packing, touring, subsistence, transporting people, or interpretation) for pecuniary remuneration or other gain to individuals or groups on National Forest System lands. The term “guide” includes the holder’s employees and agents.

STEEP SNOW AND ICE RECAP

by Johathan Barrett

InAugust, the Steep Snow and Ice (SSI) subcommittee completed its second season providing instruction at the skill-builder level of course content. The curriculum has several components designed to help an ICS-level or equivalent climber develop tools to improve their safety, efficiency, and communication on steeper alpine terrain. Students practice skills such as placing snow/ice protection and anchors, Kiwi coils, running belays, and safe and efficient multi-pitch transitions, from ascending to descending. Students also aquire fundamental ice skills such as the basics of steep ice climbing technique and the placement of ice screws and v-threads. The curriculum builds over three sessions in the Mazama Mountaineering Center and culminates with an alpine weekend field session.

This year SSI had 16 students, of which three were climb leaders and several active Portland Mountain Rescue team members; we are excited to continue to foster these relationships. One of the strengths of our program is our 2:1 student-to-mentor ratio providing frequent supervision and individualized feedback. Thanks to all 12 of the volunteers who gave their time to mentor the participants, and especially those who were able to help supervise and teach on Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier: Jonathan Barrett, Eric Brainich, Ed Dyer, shiva kiran, Kyle Tarry, and Mike Valentine.

Top and above: Steep Snow and Ice students on Mt. Hood's Eliot Glacier, August 2022. Photo by Ed Dyer.

TRANSFORM YOUR OUTDOOR GAME GET VERTICAL

BCEP—BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM

by Christin Ritscher

TheBasic Climbing Education Program is a staple with the Mazamas. The class helps many outdoorsy folks step up their game from hiking and backpacking to reaching an actual summit. Sounds interesting? Then BCEP may be for you!

The program teaches the skills needed to climb a snow-covered peak, team climbing practices, and some of the basics for outdoor rock in an alpine environment. And, even more important, you’ll get in contact with like-minded folks and learn your skills in a welcoming atmosphere.

The eight-week class includes weekly lectures and break-out sessions, both virtual and in-person (in Portland), field sessions to test your new skills, and conditioning hikes to practice skills and climbing with a team. We will introduce foundational knowledge in rock climbing and snow travel (did someone say, "crampons?") and make you more familiar with basic techniques and gear choice. At the end of the class, you’ll be able to join climbs of glaciated peaks (e.g., Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, Unicorn Peak [our fav!], Middle Sister, and many more) as a valuable member of a highly supportive team.

Who will be in your BCEP team? Each team is led by an experienced climb leader supported by assistants, with most of

IMPORTANT UPCOMING DATES

BCEP INFO NIGHT: JANUARY 11, 2023

In-person at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center and online.

APPLICATION PERIOD: JANUARY 18–25, 2023

All applications received during the application period will be considered (not first come, first served).

START OF CLASS: MARCH 2023

Exact dates are team-specific, all options will be shown in the application.

them being BCEP grads themselves. They all will be all around and ready for your questions. Our teams are diverse and convenient for older and younger climbers.

The Mazamas also strive to offer a variety of affinity teams. This will depend on the availability of volunteers able to lead a group in 2023. If you are interested, please indicate this on your application or join our Welcome Night at the beginning of January to learn more.

And now? Clear your schedule! BCEP is a time-intensive program with field sessions and hikes being full-day adventures, and weekly lectures and breakouts (in-person) are about 2–3 hours in length. We promise—it will be worth it. A mandatory skills assessment occurs at the end of the course and will certify you.

With that in hand, your way is free into a great 2023 climbing season.

Above: Geared up, packed up, and ready to go. Photo by Cameron Soane.

WONDERING IF BCEP IS FOR YOU?

Last year’s graduates share their experiences and achievements. The program does not require any climbing experience but can also work for people who would like to refresh their skill set. An appropriate fitness level and, even more importantly, being a team player with a certain level of mountain-madness is all that is needed to get started.

KASSY

"As a backpacker and climber, I was eager to learn more about mountaineering, but I also had my reservations. As a queer woman of color, I was uncertain if I would feel comfortable or welcome in a white-dominated sport. However, a few BIPOC climbers (and recent BCEP grads) shared their experiences with BCEP, and with their encouragement I applied. “My team had a great mix of queer and BIPOC folks as well as allies and I always felt at ease in their midst. The fact that my instructor was a woman made it even more empowering for me and I learned so much from her and our assistants. Since graduating from BCEP I’ve climbed five summits and have no intention of stopping. I feel confident in my skills to climb beginner mountains and am looking forward to continuing my education with the Mazamas in the future."

DINESH

“One of the high points of my year was being a part of BCEP22 (shout out to YetiYo’s). I came in with a bit of rock climbing experience but was definitely anxious about the demands of snow and steep hikes. But to my surprise, the course was structured so well that I eased into those difficult sessions—sounds ironic but it’s true. The skill building classes and reading material were of immense help. Big thanks to my team leaders (Christine and Toby) for putting together a fantastic learning curriculum. They made sure our field trips were fun and challenging at the same time. I would most definitely be applying to the advanced climbing programs next year.”

JANE

“I moved to Portland from Virginia in July 2021. I remember spotting Wy’east (Mt. Hood) from my cousin’s couch for the first time and wondering about the view from the top. Without any mountaineering experience, it felt like such a pipe dream, a dream that wasn’t even worth dreaming yet. A few weeks later I saw a BCEP flyer in a local shop. Although I wasn’t sure what they meant by climbing—like rock climbing?—it sounded like an amazing opportunity to get out in the mountains and take my hiking to the next level. Sure enough, BCEP completely changed my life. Christine and Toby and their small army of passionate and dedicated assistants provided incredible instruction for both novices (me!) and intermediate climbers. I learned so much from our class and met wonderful people who share a love of adventure and our beautiful Mother Earth. A year ago, I couldn’t fathom summiting peaks and tackling huge rocks, but with help from the Mazamas, I have dared to dream. "

CAMERON

“When I attended the informational night for BCEP, I was skeptical. I didn't think it was going to be a worthwhile path for me to learn how to climb higher in the mountains. I had just climbed Mt. Hood's south route a few months prior, as well as Middle Sister. Looking back, I see now that these peaks had inflated my ego. I had the willpower, but I didn't have the technical foundation to advance safely and intelligently.

“I'm so glad I didn't walk away. In BCEP, I learned so much more than I could have possibly gained on my own. The mentorship, positive critique, and scholarly approach to climbing is incredible. I found a community of folks who were as obsessed with ascending as I was and friends whom I hope to climb with for years. BCEP was also the gateway to continue to grow within the Mazamas.”

FIRST AID AS SECOND NATURE TO THE MAZAMAS

by the First Aid Committee, Peter Boag, and You

In May 2021, Terry Sayre was on the Mazama climb of Mt. Ellinor in the Olympic Mountains of Washington State when a team member fell and broke an ankle while attempting to self-arrest. Christine Troy, who was the provisional leader of the climb, previously wrote in detail about this accident in the July/August 2021 issue of the Mazama Bulletin. The mishap resulted in a rescue by Olympic Mountain Rescue (OMR), but only after several hours of the team’s waiting and working to keep their team member and themselves comfortable. “I learned a lot from this incident,” Sayre recently related to us, “and it has forever changed what I pack on trips.” Sayre had previously taken the Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) course offered by the Mazamas. On Mt. llinor, he provided his sit pad to immobilize the broken ankle because the group did not carry a structural aluminum malleable (SAM) splint. Since then, Sayre carries a SAM splint whenever in the backwoods.

It came in very handy not long after his Mt. Ellinor experience: "A couple months later, my kids and a friend were camping at Thielsen View Campground at Diamond Lake, Oregon. We were going to climb Mt. Thielsen the next day, starting early. As we were getting ready for bed, my 15-year-old son jumped from a rock to a large log. The log rolled out from under him. His plan was to ride on the log like a lumber jack does when a log is in the water! It didn’t work. He fell and broke the end of his elbow off. Even though I didn’t see the fall, I heard his reaction and knew something bad had happened. I used the SAM splint on his arm and then stabilized his arm for the long ride to the hospital by tying the splint and his arm to his torso. My other two kids and friend threw everything in our van and headed to the hospital as fast as we

could. Thanks to MFA, I was confident to help and was able to stay calm! As a side note, we returned to Mt. Thielsen this past summer (2022) and successfully climbed it without incident (but I had a SAM splint in my pack just in case)!"

First aid education and the administration of first aid have long been a part of the Mazamas. So integral to our beings and wellbeing have they become that, like the case of Terry Sayre, they are now second nature to many of us—commonplace skills that we, often unthinkingly, employ in our daily lives, whether inside the MMC, out in the mountains, or around our homes and workplaces. Following the First Aid Committee, working with the Publications Committee, would like to draw the attention of the Mazamas to the skills of first aid as second nature by shining a light on first

aid’s somewhat forgotten history in the organization and by sharing a few stories about how our members have used first aid in situations both inside and outside the organization. We offer this article as an introduction to the topic and we plan to share more first-hand experiences of the importance of first-aid training and preparedness in future Mazama Bulletins.

Given the physical and natural challenges of mountain climbing, it was within the Mazama Climbing Committee that first-aid preparedness emerged in our organization. The Climbing Committee formalized in 1934–35 and slowly added varied sorts of trainings over the years. It was not until 1982, however, when the Climbing Committee regularized first aid, both its teaching to and requirement for, climb leaders. This was also when the Climbing Committee identified three other areas of training and competency that climb leaders had to have and regularly review. The committee’s minutes for late 1981 and early 1982 are filled with serious discussions about first aid. It seems that a recent disaster within the organization played a role in deliberations. In the late spring of 1981, a beloved climb leader, Ken Winters, died from a heart attack while leading a Mazama team up Mt. Shasta. In November of that year, when the Climbing Committee set about creating a more regularized first aid certification, one proposal was to make CPR a requirement. In the new year, those on the Climbing Committee who were directly involved in creating the First-Aid Subcommittee also collected information from the climbers who were with Winters to help in planning accident management that year.

Many in the Mazamas might have forgotten the close connection that formal first aid training in the organization had with the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS). The Mazamas began offering an intermediate climbing course in 1957. Over the years, the Climbing Committee added to its curriculum as it transformed into ICS. The vision was that ICS would be the training ground for future climb leaders, and thus the need to have its graduates wellrounded in varied aspects of mountaineering and mountain safety. In 1970, first aid became part of ICS’s curriculum and for some time thereafter first aid seminars in the Mazamas were principally associated with ICS. In late 1981, as the Climbing Committee began formalizing first aid, its subcommittee for doing so, emerged out of ICS. The January 1982 Mazama Bulletin explained that the newly forming committee was to provide first aid “training on a regular systematic basis.”

By May of 1982, the First Aid Subcommittee, working with the Red Cross, proposed a standard first aid course of 21 hours of instruction and an advanced course of 53 hours as part of the first aid requirement for climb leaders. The Climbing Committee accepted this as well as the requirement that leaders must complete first aid and CPR training once every four years. Within the year and continuing for some time thereafter, the Mazamas offered the basic first aid course and CPR every October and February. In 1985, First Aid separated from the Climbing Committee, which was the plan since its origins, and became an ad hoc committee, assuming first aid training needs not just for the Climbing Committee and ICS but other Mazama programs as well. The first advanced first aid course also appeared in 1985. Two years later, and through a Mazama membership vote, First Aid became a formal standing committee.

Since then, thousands of climb leaders, ICS students, other Mazama members, and even non-members have passed through

the organization’s first aid trainings. These have not remained static; they are often reformed in the wake of major tragedies, such as the May 1998 incident that involved a BCEP team climbing Mt. Hood under the guidance of its instructor, a climb leader. An avalanche occurred at 10,700 feet and swept up several of the climbers, killing 39-year-old Tom McGlinn and seriously injuring two others. As a result of the calamity, and at the behest of the Mazama leadership and the McGlinn family who wanted answers, the organization authorized an independent risk assessment of the Mazamas and its practices. The final report, Risk Management Review of the Mazamas, applauded the ICS mountaineering course, in part because of its first aid requirement, and recommended that some of its curriculum be extended to BCEP. At the same time, the report proposed that the First Aid Committee do more to align its first aid curriculum with the nationally recognized Wilderness Advanced First Aid course. It also recommended that Mazama hike leaders be trained in first aid, something that had not previously happened (though the organization had already been moving in that direction).

Naturally, the organization's interest in first aid has waxed and waned over the years, often related to the proximity of serious incidents or accidents in which the Mazamas have been involved, such as the deaths of Ken Winters in 1981 and Tom McGlinn in 1998. Often unacknowledged or simply unknown are the myriad times when our members, trained through Mazama first aid programs, have used that training in all sorts of situations both inside and outside the organization’s sponsored events. The First Aid Committee has started collecting some of those lesser-known stories and wishes to begin sharing them so that they become part of our official record, and so that they also serve as a reminder of the centrality of first aid education to the organization, in the lives of its members, and to the safety of the mountains wherever Mazamas roam.

We close our introduction with a return to Mt. Ellinor, though a year following the unsettling experience that so affected Terry Sayre’s first-aid preparedness, and which served such an important role in helping his son during a broken elbow incident. This other Mt. Ellinor story involves member Claire Vandevoorde, who completed the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) in 2021. Later that year she took Wilderness First Aid (WFA) and then during the winter of 2022 she took MFA because it seemed the next “logical step” for her outdoor preparedness. And that training came in handy already in May of this year when she was privately climbing Mt. Ellinor with a friend.

"The climb was going well until we reached the top of the chute on the way down. As we started to descend...my left crampon

the First Aid Subcommittee, working with the Red Cross, proposed a standard first aid course of 21 of hours instruction and an advanced course of 53 hours as part of the first aid requirement for climb leaders."

First Aid, continued from previous

didn’t purchase. I lost my balance, accidentally dropped my ice axe, I tumbled down...about 800 feet.

"I am incredibly lucky that I didn’t hit anything or anyone... While I was able to get up and walk (and curse what happened), I needed to be checked out. Lucky for me, there were two climbers very close to where I stopped, and one checked on me right away. As we introduced ourselves, it became clear that my new friends were not trained in first aid or had a first aid kit. Good thing for me, I recently completed my MFA training and updated my kit. So, I said something that the training didn’t exactly prepare me for: 'My name is Claire and I’m trained in Wilderness First Aid. Can you help me? I have a first aid kit and I’ll guide you through the process.'”

"My new friend was more than happy to assist but I had to insist on him donning both nitrile gloves (he thought that one was good enough). We improvised a blood sweep and when we found a large gash in my left wrist that needed stitches, I had to go through each step, one by one, as he was overwhelmed by the situation. We patched my injury and, 5–10 minutes later, my climbing partner reached me. He did a quick check as he was also WFA trained, discussed my ankle situation, and we decided to resume our way back to the trailhead. I was later checked at a clinic and except for the stitches and a very minor ankle sprain, I was good."

"If not for the WFA or MFA training, I may not have had the proper gear in my kit. I may have had to wait longer for my friend or a trained climber to find me and provide care. I was able to stay focused on the treatment process...My injuries were minor but it’s easy to see how it could have had a different outcome. The real lesson for me is—accidents happen even when we do things right, so be prepared because you can’t always rely on others!"

Do you have an interesting story of how your first aid training helped yourself, a friend, a team participant, a family member, or someone you came across in the field? Or did someone else’s outdoor first aid training help you in a difficult moment? The First Aid Committee would like to hear your stories, from blisters to bee stings to breakages. We are especially interested in events that happened in the Three Sisters, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Hood Wilderness Areas, or in the Gifford Pinchot and Mt. BakerSnoqualmie National Forests. Please email firstaid@mazamas. org with your name and brief details of your story.

MAZAMA CLASSICS

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

■ The Classics Committee is working to procure a vendor to cater our annual Holiday Luncheon. As of the printing of this Bulletin, we haven’t finalized the details for the event. In the past, the lodge has catered the event, but that is not an option due to its temporary closure. However, the luncheon will happen on Wednesday, December 7. Doors open at 11:30 a.m., with lunch at noon. We are planning for an attendance of 60 people. In November, we will post more details and provide details on signing up for the event. Look for that posting in your email or contact the committee at classics@mazamas.org.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS

Contact the Classics Chair, Flora Huber, at 503658-5710, flobell17@comcast.net, or classics@mazamas.org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS

The Classics Committee needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@ mazamas.org and tell us how you can help.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING

Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

THE MAZAMAS ADD CLASSES, HELP MORE PEOPLE ADVENTURE RESPONSIBLY

by Gina Binole, Mazama Office & Communications Coordinator

Waitlist

might as well be a four-letter word. If you’ve been a Mazama long enough, you’ve likely been waitlisted at least once or twice for a climb, hike, or class. The Mazama response to this has been to add more instruction to better meet demand and encourage people to pay it forward and train as leaders in the organization. More leaders and assistants mean more activities can be offered.

The Mazama Introduction to Alpine Climbing (IAC) class was a pilot program tested this past spring and plans are in place to replicate it multiple times in 2023. The IAC aims to capture some of those students waitlisted by our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), newcomers to the Northwest who fall in love with mountains but arrive after BCEP has begun, those who set life and fitness goals throughout the year and miss our existing educational windows, and those who are already well-versed in the outdoors and looking for more challenging or technical pursuits.

“I took the BCEP waitlist and out of the blue made a direct appeal for our IAC pilot. More than 50 people responded within a few hours, that yes, they were interested,” says Matt Sundling, the creator and class leader. “They all wanted a second bite at the apple.”

While BCEP remains at the core of our education program, particularly for outdoor novices, Sundling and his co-leader Josh Lupkin chose candidates who already had some experience outdoors and had spent some time in the backcountry, hiking, and backpacking. They assembled a team of nine participants and launched the class with a student-centered learning focus, flexible scheduling, and hands-on, in-field experiences.

“I was so excited to be selected,” says Agreen Ahmadi, an IAC student who arrived in Portland via Michigan and Iran. “The class was very efficient. They didn’t go over things I already knew, like navigation, or how to pack a backpack, or what kind of clothing you need, or the conditioning hikes. So it was perfect. I really liked how they were very focused on technical skills, and there was a lot of opportunity to practice hands-on skills because all of our classes were field sessions.”

Graduates of the four-week IAC course earn their basic rock, snow, and alpine camping badges and walk away with the skills they need to climb and adventure with confidence.

“The IAC class was really wonderful, and lived up to all the things I hoped it would be. It introduced me more formally to the Mazamas, the MMC, climb leaders, fellow climbers, and also a whole new world of what was possible for me,” says Marcus Hecht, a native Portlander.

The Mazamas also added a couple of other key courses this summer: Gym-to-Crag (GTC) and Introduction to Multipitch Climbing. Based on demand and feedback, it’s likely they’ll become calendar staples like Introduction to Alpine Climbing.

▷ The purpose of the Gym-to-Crag class is exactly as it sounds, says Maureen O’Hagan, a GTC leader and cochair of the Advanced Rock Committee—to provide people a chance to climb outdoors, where holds can be less obvious, smaller, and questionable. “We want to expand the Mazama community, and we thought a class like this, where we taught the basics of climbing outside in a safe and supervised setting was a great way to introduce people to this thing we think is so fun,” O’Hagan says. GTC included a training session at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and two crag sessions on the same weekend. Participants varied from recent BCEP students to people who hadn’t spent much time outdoors in a while.

▷

Introduction to Multipitch Climbing provided space for participants to learn and train to be part of a three-person team that climbed the 10-pitch Peregrine Traverse route Acker Rock, .

“The course was four weekends in the field, and each one of them was a highlight for me learning new skills. In particular, the first weekend I was super jazzed to go from putting on a harness for the first time ever on Saturday, to then rappelling a cliff in the wild on Kings Mountain the next day…IAC was the perfect introduction to climbing for me because of the people and style of instruction, and I am so glad to have had the opportunity to participate in the pilot program.”

SAYING GOODBYE

DAVID CARRIER

MARCH 25, 1956–AUGUST 25, 2022

The Mazamas lost a prolific climber and at-times instructor when David Carrier, aged 66, from Vancouver, Washington, passed away during a climbing trip in the North Cascades. David had sent out an inReach "At the summit, all is well" message when at Stettatle Ridge on August 24, but was not heard from again. Worry spread to alarm when David failed to show up as expected, and days passed. The North Cascades National Park Rangers were notified on Monday, August 29, 2022. Search operations began the next day with ground teams and a helicopter in the areas of Sourdough Ridge, Elephant Butte, and the Stetattle Creek drainage. David was found below a cliff on the east side of the Sourdough Ridge access trail on August 31. He did not survive the fall. The supposition is that he passed away on either August 24 or August 25 on his return from Stettatle Ridge or in further exploration.

A fellow Mazama was climbing with David a couple of weeks before his death and relayed this story about an unexpected climb of Sahale:

"[After being at] Sahale camp for the night, the next morning presented a nice weather window for summiting Sahale Peak. So we did. Surprisingly, no one else was climbing Sahale that morning, considering the high climbing season in mid-August. Once getting on the top, we had a pristine view of the North Cascades peaks for ourselves. 'Here you get the best view of the entire North Cascades,' David said to me, 'You can see almost all the peaks in the range.' He then pointed out all the peaks, all the ridges, all the traverses in all directions to me, and said, 'I always enjoy the view here. and I usually take a longer time to appreciate it, if that is the end of my climbing season. 'Yes, we must have stayed more than half an hour there before we headed down. And yes, it was indeed David's last view of the entire North Cascades Range."

David was especially fond of fast-paced climbers, but would climb pretty much anything with anyone, giving many novices eyeopening mountain experiences.

David earned a Ph.D. in economics and thought deeply about many subjects, including his climbing training (he took Advanced Snow and Ice in 2003). For example, for the middle person on a rope for glacier travel, he would have them put a waist prussik

on both strands—after all, if you fell into a crevasse, do you think that you’d be adept at taking a prussik off one side of the rope and putting it onto the other side without dropping it into the crevasse? More recently, he relayed that there were issues about how belay from above was taught in BCEP. It has since been modified.

His outdoor life included skiing and kayaking, and his “inside” life was dedicated to social justice, even running for the state senate seat in Clark County, Washington, in 2008, in an attempt to bring the change he thought was necessary.

He made a huge impact on many who ventured into the outdoors with him, and will be missed.

To honor David’s caring nature, if you wish you can donate to Portland Mountain Rescue, saving lives through rescue and mountain safety education (pmru.org/how-to-contribute), or Voices of Children, which provides psychological and psychosocial support to children affected by conflict (voices.org.ua/en/).

TOM SHOWALTER

MARCH 22, 1933–JULY 18, 2022

Thomas Eugene Showalter passed away on July 18, 2022, at the age of 89 in Portland. He was a member of the Mazamas for 36 years. He led hikes for the Mazamas from 1977–1990. He also assisted on six Mazama climbs in the late 1970s. He received the Guardian Peaks Award in 1980.

Professionally, Tom was an esteemed science teacher at Gardiner, Ogden, and Moss Junior High Schools in Oregon City. He also taught astronomy and photography, two interests he greatly enjoyed, and shared his passion for space with others, especially at Menucha Conference Center in the Columbia Gorge.

LINDA PRINSEN

SEPTEMBER 23, 1947–SEPTEMBER 3, 2022

After nearly 75 years of a vivacious, loving, and adventurous life, Linda Lizabeth Prinsen passed away peacefully on September 3, 2022. She had been a Mazama member since 1995. Linda was a presence in the Mazama Trail Trip community for many years and went on numerous Mazama outings.

Her life was one of service, adventure, and friendship. She taught drama, English, and Spanish for years at Sam Barlow High School in Gresham. At 65 she joined the Peace Corps, teaching English in Thailand. She loved to travel and assisted in medical and humanitarian efforts in a number of countries. She used her ukulele to bring joy and make connections in nursing homes near home and when traveling abroad. Her adventures included walking the Camino de Santiago in Spain and the John Muir Way in Scotland.

A wonderful person, so full of life, Linda touched many people with her generosity, friendship, and love. She stayed in touch with every person whose path crossed hers. She was an enthusiastic member of many communities: recovery, her hiking group, the Mazamas; her crafting group, the Creative Goddesses; her neighbors in the Richmond neighborhood; her classmates from Albany High, OSU and PSU; her Peace Corps, service work, and ukulele buddies; and so many more.

RICHARD PORTER

APRIL 13, 1929–AUGUST 2, 2022

CARL R. NEIL

OCTOBER 1, 1933–OCTOBER 4, 2021

ROBERT EBERHARDT TRAPP

JULY 11, 1926–NOVEMBER 3, 2021

LELAND LISLE "ZEKE" HAZLETT

FEBRUARY 1, 1939–SEPTEMBER 10, 2022

EXECUTIVE BOARD MINUTES

by Greg Scott, Secretary

AUGUST 3, 2022

Attending: Jesse Applegate (in-person), President; Aimee Filimoehala (remote), Vice President; David Urbaniak, (remote) Treasurer; Greg Scott (in-person), Secretary; Charles Barker (remote); Bob Breivogel (remote); Amanda Ryan-Fear (remote); Kaleen Deatherage, Interim Executive Director (in-person); Jennifer Tuohy (Stoel Rives); Chris LeDoux (DEI); Barbara Weiss.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 4:05 p.m. by President Jesse Applegate.

■ Jesse noted a quorum was present. Jesse began by noting that the focus of the meeting would be on five agenda items outlined in the packet.

BUSINESS AGENDA

■ Minutes. Jesse asked for a motion to approve the minutes from the June 2022 meeting. Jesse made a motion to approve the minutes, Aimee seconded. Motion carried.

■ Treasurer’s Report. Kaleen Deatherage and David Urbaniak gave the following report:

■ Monthly Financials:

□ Through June, YTD actual revenue was $555,000 versus expected budget of $827,000, difference of $272,000. Activity fees and merchandise continue to be the meaningful revenue laggards.

□ Through June, YTD actual expenses $605,000, versus planned budget of $860,000 for a difference of $254,000. Spend is down by 29 percent for the budget year. Biggest drivers to reduction: IT, merchandise expenses, Lodge meals, and personnel costs are down for the year.

□ Editorial comment: While we have not been able to increase our revenue, we've done a nice job of keeping our spending under control in a high inflation period.

■ Budget planning: Continued progress on 2022–2023 budget planning:

□ Aligned/overarching goal: Balanced budget for 2022–2023 budget year.

□ Focus on: Program revenue, fundraising revenue, control expenses

□ Budget template out to council members for comment/feedback, to

provide to committees to aid in their budget planning.

□ Discussed accrual versus cash with bookkeepers—recommendation was to proceed with accrual with exceptions of cash to close out the year.

□ Meeting early August with bookkeeper on next review of budget.

■ Investment Updates:

□ Q1 results—4.3 percent at quarter close.

□ Q2 results—quarter close was not complete at time of investment meeting, but down approximately 14 percent for the year.

□ Portfolio has a 5 percent commodity target. No allocation to date. Committee approved diversification into commodities as appropriate. Commodities would still be actual securities versus futures.

□ Next meeting is to be scheduled for October, early November.

■ Other Items:

□ There was some discussion if the organization had taken any withdrawals from brokerage in the calendar year. It was confirmed that in the last 12 months we had one $100,000 withdrawal on February 23, 2022 to support ongoing operations of Mazamas. We are requesting an additional $18,000 to support grant funding allocations this month.

INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

Kaleen Deatherage gave the Interim Executive Director report. Items noted beyond the written report are as follows:

FOREST SERVICE PERMITS

■ Greg updated the council on the situation with the U.S. Forest Service.

In early July, 2022, the Gifford Pinchot National Forest asked the Mazamas to not lead any additional climbs on Mt. Adams, and by implication any activities in Gifford Pinchot.

■ On July 26, 2022, the Mt. BakerSnoqualmie National Forest sent a cease and desist letter asking us to cease any activities in that national forest.

■ Around that same time, Inyo National Forest sent a letter asking the Mazamas not to lead a John Muir trail trip.

■ The basis for these notices is that the Mazamas need to acquire a special use

permit if we want to charge a fee for activities.

■ In the short term, Greg has been assisting Kaleen with addressing climbs and hikes that were implicated and keeping leaders informed of the developing situation. Greg also contacted Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and Inyo National Forest. We will submit an application for a special use permit in Mt. BakerSnoqualmie National Forest. Inyo is allowing us to proceed with the John Muir trip as long as we can assure them we will not be charging a fee.

■ In the long term, Greg recommends that the EC form an access subcommittee to determine how we do business going forward. This would include representatives from various activity committees, the Conservation Committee, and DEI Committee.

BYLAWS CHANGE

■ Jennifer Tuohy discussed the draft proposed amended and revised bylaws. The board discussed her recommendations and will continue to review the draft. The EC set a goal to finalize the draft and propose the changes to the membership by September 1st.

■ Chris LeDoux asked that the DEI committee be allowed to participate in policy development.

MEA LEADERSHIP AND CONFERENCE

■ The Mountain Education Alliance is holding an annual summit at the AAC in Colorado. Greg volunteered to attend the meeting to represent the Mazamas.

■ Portland Mountain Rescue (PMR) moving out of their garage

■ PMR is in need of a short term space to store rescue equipment and asked if the MMC could be used.

■ Aimee made a motion to approve PMR using space at MMC. Greg seconded.

□ Motion carried.

NEW BUSINESS

■ Jesse adjourned the meeting at 6:14 p.m.

by Greg Scott, Secretary

AUGUST 31, 2022

Attending: Jesse Applegate (in-person), President; Aimee Filimoehala (in-person), Vice President; David Urbaniak, (remote) Treasurer; Greg Scott (in-person), Secretary; Bob Breivogel (remote); Amanda Ryan-Fear (remote); Charles Barker (remote); Kaleen Deatherage, Interim Executive Director (remote); Guests: Chris LeDoux (DEI); Dan Zawistowski (DEI); Anna Withington (DEI)

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

The meeting was called to order at 4:03 p.m. by President Jesse Applegate.

Jesse noted a quorum was present. Jesse began by noting that the focus of the meeting would be on five agenda items outlined in the packet.

BUSINESS AGENDA

■ Minutes. Jesse asked for a motion to approve the minutes from the July 2022 meeting. Aimee made a motion to approve the minutes, Greg seconded. Motion carried.

■ Treasurer’s Report. Kaleen Deatherage and David Urbaniak gave the following report:

□ Through July, YTD actual revenue $657,000 versus expected budget of $865,000, difference of $208,000. Activity fees and donations continue to be the meaningful revenue laggards.

□ Through July, YTD actual expenses were $673,000, versus a planned budget of $955,000 for a difference of $282,000.

Spending continues to be down for the year. Biggest driver to reduction: personnel costs are down close to $100,000 for the year.

□ Budget planning—meaningful progress on 2022–2023 budget planning.

□ Committee chair meeting scheduled for September 8 to talk through template.

□ Targeting October board meeting for budget review.

□ On August 12, 2022, a motion was made by email that, with oversight and correction of any findings in reviewing the forms, we approve the submission of the Mazamas 2020 draft tax documents (990 submission).

■ This motion carried.

INTERIM EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ Kaleen Deatherage gave the Interim Executive Director report. Items noted beyond the written report are as follows:

■ Lodge: Now that the Mazamas nonprofit organization is managing lodge operations it's necessary to re-evaluate the lodge's primary purpose, the service model, the staffing structure, and the volunteer roles needed for the lodge to run effectively. Our experience over the last year reveals that our structure and practices are not set up to make the role of lodge manager/caretaker satisfying or easy to fulfill, and that the purpose and duties of the Lodge Committee also need to be re-assessed so that our volunteers can have a fulfilling experience supporting the lodge they care so much about.

■ Because we cannot operate the lodge 7 days a week with one staff member and sporadic volunteer support and also provide the quality customer service to our members and guest groups that we aspire to, let alone have a spare minute to work on redefining lodge operations, the interim executive director proposes the following:

□ After Labor Day weekend (RTM), we close the lodge until December 1.

□ Assemble a team to prepare the lodge for winter and ensure maintenance work is caught up and systems are serviced as needed to maintain baseline operation through the winter.

□ Brook Harris, chair of the Lodge Committee, and Kaleen would be responsible for leadership oversight of this effort and for guiding the various work teams as they carry out the tasks that they propose. In addition, Brook and Kaleen will oversee the re-evaluation and the reimagination of how the lodge could run most effectively as one of multiple programs offered by the Mazamas. They will lead a short term work team who will determine how to right-size lodge operations to match current available staffing and organizational bandwidth.

■ The Executive Council approved moving forward with this proposal.

■ Roof. We are still awaiting Forest Service approval. Now falls into the historic building category. The Forest Service

may try and make us go back to a shingle roof. Working with Forest Service on this. Talked to the contractor about getting through winter with about $1,500 in repairs until we can get to a longer term solution.

DEI PROPOSED REVISION TO EQUITY STATEMENT

■ An organization’s equity statement is not static but may evolve with, among other reasons:

□ the organization’s work toward increasing equity,

□ the evolving awareness and expectations of the broader community, □ the perspectives represented as representation changes regarding who is involved or in positions that are able to provide input.

■ DEI is recommending the update to the equity statement due to both (2) and (3) above.

■ The revisions create a shorter, simpler statement that better reflects expectations of the organization in 2022.

DEI is asking for:

□ the needs of underserved communities to be centered instead of the organization, □ for the diversity and equity situation to be represented as current-day rather than historical, □ for us to acknowledge that an active process is needed to change the situation.

■ The Executive Council discussed this proposal and supports this approach.

BYLAWS CHANGE

■ The latest draft of the bylaws was received from counsel just before this meeting started and the Executive Council has not had time to review. The new goal is to finalize bylaws in the next 7–10 days and have adjacent policies drafted in the next 30 days. Goal to publish in the next Mazama Bulletin. Election targeted for Janurary/February. The Executive Council discussed talking points document.

■ Campaign will run concurrently digitally and through focused discussions. continued on next page

VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION

■ Kaleen encourages every board member to attend this volunteer appreciation event scheduled for September 15, at Markowitz Herbold.

■ Yun Long Ong’s bequest to the Mazamas is being donated to support the volunteer appreciation event for the next 10 years. In honor of Long there will be a new award the Yun Long Ong Mentorship Award. For the first year the award will go to Long.

Mt. Hood PerMit ProPosal

■ USFS reached out to stakeholder groups for initial feedback on the permit proposal for climbing above 9,500 feet on Mt. Hood. The impression is that the effort is a means for the Forest Service to collect information on the usage of Mt. Hood and fulfill stewardship obligations protecting the forest and mountain, and to improve safety and awareness.

■ Most search and rescue groups are in support of the proposal.

■ The Forest Service believes fees will moderate over-crowding. The fees will fund one year-round climbing ranger

and two seasonal rangers. The Forest Service sees the Mazamas providing some of the educational aspects of climbing and stewardship.

■ Secondary expectations of the fee implementation on the south side is to spread climbers to other routes. Search and rescue groups pushed back on this idea.

■ Fees will also fund a 24-hour restroom. Next steps and timeline: after the public comment period, the Forest Service will make adjustments to the proposal then present it to the resource advisory committee in the fall. The entire proposal goes to the Regional Forester by the end of 2022. The climbing permit goes into effect in January 2024.

■ The Forest Service has asked the Mazamas to give a 2-minute presentation.

■ The Access Fund would also like to know our position.

CliMb leader UPdate

■ The Climbing Committee reinstated Kerry Loehr as a full climb leader.

NEW BUSINESS

■ Jesse adjourned the meeting at 6 p.m.

COLOPHON

CONTACT US

Mazama Mountaineering Center

527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215

Phone: 503-227-2345 | help@mazamas.org

Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mazama Lodge

30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214

mazamalodge@mazamas.org

Hours: Closed until 2023

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Members: Peter Boag, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, and Claire Tenscher (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF

GINA BINOLE Office & Communications Coordinator ginabinole@mazamas.org

MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

KALEEN DEATHERAGE Interim Executive Director kaleendeatherage@mazamas.org

BRENDAN SCANLAN Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

What Will 2023 Bring With Your Mazama Membership?

SOMETHING OLD

At our core, the Mazamas will always be driven by our mission to inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains. Our climbs, hikes, stewardship projects, and education programs are at the heart of that mission.

SOMETHING NEW

We are reinvigorating ourselves with new opportunities for engagement with you! Look out for more virtual offerings, new volunteer opportunities, and some new staff, volunteer, and member faces around the MMC and on the trails.

SOMETHING BORROWED

Over the past year we’ve had to be creative with how to offer programs and serve our community. We’ve borrowed lessons, skills, and knowledge to make us stronger from our volunteers, community leaders, and fellow outdoor organizations.

SOMETHING YOU!

Mazama members are what keep us strong 128 years after our founding. You are volunteers, leaders, adventurers, advocates, and mentors. We look forward to seeing your faces, both familiar and new, on the trails in 2023.

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ICS students relax after a day at Horsethief Butte, September 2022. Photo by Teresa Dalsager.