2023 Nov/Dec Mazama Bulletin by Mazamas

INSIDE:

Ouray Ice Park The Dark Side to Safety Culture The Mountain Keeps the Story Our Mountain Home: 100 Years of Mazama Lodges NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 1

We Are the Unclaimed Line Strong, protective, and built for realising winter’s endless possibilities. Whether you’re making a bid for the summit or leading the charge in fresh powder, our ski clothing offers the warmth, breathability, and freedom of movement you need to claim the next untouched line.

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MAZAMA BULLETIN

Volume 105 Number 6 November/December 2023

CONTENTS THE MAZAMAS: FOR THE LOVE OF MOUNTAINS

COLUMNS

Welcome Message, p. 8 The Mazamas: For the Love of Mountains, p. 9 Becoming the Mazamas, p. 10 William Gladstone Steel, p. 13 Mountaineering, p. 15 Hiking, p. 17 Rock Climbing, p. 18 Skiing, p. 19 Research, p. 21 Eliot Glacier, p. 22 Conservation, p. 24 Lodges in the Mountain West, p. 27 Education, p. 34 Publications, p. 37 Mazama Library, p. 38 The Future, p. 39

Executive Director’s Message, p. 4 President’s Message, p. 5 Mazama Membership, p. 6 Upcoming Courses, Activities, & Events, p. 7 The Mazamas Respond to Climate Change: The MMC is Carbon Neutral, p. 42 Saying Goodbye, p. 44 Successful Climbers, p. 46 Colophon, p. 47

The future of the Mazamas will be shaped just as its past—through an unwavering commitment to learning, exploration, and community." p. 39

We did this by eliminating our natural gas usage and going 100 percent electrical, installing highefficiency heat pumps, reducing our electrical consumption, creating our own electricity via a large solar array, and purchasing 100 percent green power from Portland General Electric (PGE) for the balance of energy not created by our solar system." p. 42

Cover: Mazamas on Cooper Spur, July 19, 1984. Cover by Ali Gray. Above: Mazama members during the Mazamapanorama, July 1944. MLHC VM2000.032.

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EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE by Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director

’m thrilled to share The Mazamas: For the Love of Mountains with you this winter at the Oregon Historical Society in downtown Portland. This exhibit documents nearly 130 years of cultivating our local, regional, and global mountaineering communities, and challenges us to ask ourselves—what’s next? I’ll stop short of recommending it outright, but in some ways developing a public exhibit to celebrate thirteen decades of milestones and achievements is the ideal way to start a new position as that organization’s executive director. Coming in, I was well acquainted with the cornerstones of our legacy: mountaineering education, scientific research, and conservation. Now, after poring over scores of notable artifacts and the inspiring stories they tell, I’ve gained valuable insight into the organization’s trajectory, right up to this very moment. My takeaway? If you want to get to know the Mazamas, it’s not so much the milestones; the good stuff is what’s in between. How the sausage gets made is rarely a selling point, but in this case, I beg to differ. From the beginning, the Mazamas has been collaborative, volunteer-driven, and forward-thinking. Never once has the Mazamas made history because of a single individual. A shared sense of purpose drives members to embrace differences, establish consensus, and work together to build something bigger than themselves. Recently, after a member was introduced to me as a “great climber,” I asked one of our committee chairs, “What does that mean to you?” The answer wasn’t quantifiable. What I heard was, it’s not about how many peaks a climber

has bagged, their pace, or their technical prowess. It’s about empathy. Helping others reach their potential. Making decisions as a team. Knowing and respecting limits. Normalizing interdependence. These attributes aren’t exclusive to great climbers. They’re inherent in any strong community in which belonging is present. Belonging, after all, isn’t just an outcome. It’s a tool for learning. It’s what gives us the insight to contextualize the tension of opposites that ultimately leads to equilibrium—which of course is then broken as new tensions evolve, pushing and pulling and propelling us along until equilibrium is again attained. It’s these spaces that I find so exciting, as they showcase the incredible power of belonging to further a community like the Mazamas, pioneering new landscapes, pursuing new discoveries, and paving the path forward. Whatever you know about the Mazamas coming into this exhibit, I hope your takeaway, too, is that we are all so much more than the sum of our parts. This is as true for scaling mountains as it is for developing the critical mass needed to remove membership restrictions that no longer serve the organization, as the Mazamas did one year ago. The dedication, passion, and commitment that the Mazama community shows—not just in service of the organization but for

one another—has built an institution all Oregonians can be both proud and a part of. It turns out this principle also applies to undertakings like this historical exhibit. This month, in addition to acknowledging our friends at the Oregon Historical Society, I particularly want to recognize the team of Mazamas who for months have lent their invaluable historical, editorial, curatorial, and organizational expertise to bring this exhibit together: Allison Ackerman, Ethan Allred, Peter Boag, Ali Gray, Brent Owens, the staff at Beard’s Framing in Hazel Dell (WA), and of course, Mathew Brock, our Library & Historical Collections Manager, who has admirably managed each and every detail along the way. My congratulations and gratitude to everyone who helped make this possible. Thank you for supporting the Mazamas, and for being part of something truly great. Together is the Mazama way when it comes to climbing mountains—but it’s also how we can move them.

Editor’s note: This edition of the Mazama Bulletin will look a little different. When the option to put on an exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society presented itself, we decided to use the bulletin as the exhibit catalog. Our hope in this decision was two-fold. One, it will make a nice souvenir for visitors to the exhibit. Two, having the exhibit essentially arrive in your mailbox, we hope, will entice you to visit OHS and see the exhibit in person. And, it saved your hardworking staff from having to create another publication. Rest assured, the membership reports and board of director meeting minutes will return with the Jan/Feb 2024 issue.

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PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE by Greg Scott, Mazama President

hortly after the passage of the new bylaws in January 2023 I set out to find a way to celebrate both this and other notable milestones from the course of Mazama history. That a person would no longer be required to have summited a glaciated peak as a condition of membership was significant, as were several approaching anniversaries: 130 years since our founding, 100 years of operating a lodge on Mt. Hood, and 30 years of maintaining our beloved Mazama Trail.

With important history both behind us and unfolding in realtime, I wanted to find a channel that would help us share our story with the widest possible audience. I asked Dr. Peter Boag, a history scholar and Mazama member, about the possibility of working in collaboration with the Oregon Historical Society, perhaps even to explore an exhibit. It was a complete longshot because normally this type of exhibit is planned out years in advance, but Peter provided a contact, whom I called the very next day. As it turned out, we were in luck. Just one day before, another group had backed out of the November 2023 time slot, and it was ours if the Mazamas wanted it. There were immediate questions about whether we could deliver against such an ambitious timeline, but I had complete faith in our team and I’m proud of the work they accomplished to make this event happen. Collaboration, community, and

storytelling are at the core of the Mazamas, and as we build on these foundations to envision our future together, we hope the artifacts and stories you discover in the exhibit inspire, delight, and encourage you to explore the Mazamas further. Whether you’re a dues-paying member or not, the Mazamas is now a place where everyone can come together to express their love for the mountains through mountaineering, education, and conservation. Thank you to all who contributed and made this exhibit happen. It’s an incredible way to acknowledge our past and look to the future.

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MAZAMA MERCHANDISE ON SALE NOW!

We have T-shirts, stickers, historic prints, & water bottles

YOUR AD HERE! Order today at www.mazamas.org/merchandise 6 MAZAMAS

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, AND EVENTS HAWAII NP OUTING

ADVANCED ROCK

NORDIC

Hiking Volcanoes National Park, Big Island, Hawaii

The application period for Advanced Rock (AR) is coming up fast and we couldn't be more excited. ■ Zoom info session: November 30 ■ Registration opens: November 27 ■ Class dates: Feb. 21, 2024–Jun. 1, 2024 ■ Tuition: $900 for members, $1,020 for nonmembers

Learn to Nordic ski this winter!

■ January 7–15, 2024 ■ Cost: $900 for members, nonmember cost is $1,050. We'll spend a week exploring Volcanoes National Park, one of the world's most fascinating biological landscapes in the most geographically isolated group of islands on the planet. We have reservations for eight nights in the national park at the Kilauea Military Camp, at 4,000 feet of elevation, in two cabins featuring all the comforts of home. Our outing itinerary will include six B-level hikes plus a day to explore Hilo and the Hamakua Coast including Akaka Falls State Park. Mazama member outing cost is $900 (nonmember cost is $1,050). The minimum number of participants, including the leader, is 12, and the maximum number is 16. Participants are responsible for meals, travel to and from Portland, and shared vehicle rental on the Big Island. The assistant leader is Leigh Schwarz. For more information, contact Leader Jay Feldman at jayf1111@gmail.com.

CLASSICS ■ December 8, 2023 The Classics Committee will host their annual Holiday Luncheon on Friday, December 8 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Again this year, it will be a potluck luncheon with attendees providing an entree, salad, side dish, or dessert. The committee will be providing the main dish along with coffee, water, utensils, plates, and cups. The cost is $5. Please pay at the door. Doors open at 11 a.m. with lunch at noon in the Holman Auditorium at the MMC. Please register in advance and tell us which dish ( for six or more) you will bring along with your name and email address. Register by emailing classics@mazamas.org by December 4.

Starting on November 27 we will begin accepting applications, with a few important updates for 2024. A new prerequisite includes a resume of ten unique outdoor leads of any grade. The Advanced Rock Committee will host a Zoom info session on November 30 where attendees can learn all about what the course entails. This will be a great opportunity to ask questions about the course and application process. Tuition is $900 for members and $1,020 for nonmembers. Visit the Advanced Rock page on the Mazama website (mazamas. org/ar) for additional information on scholarship opportunities and more.

■ ■ ■ ■

Zoom info session: November 7 Orientation: Jan. 3, 2024 Field sessions: Jan. 20–Feb. 7, 2024 Tuition: $200 for members, $230 for nonmembers Nordic (cross-country) skiing is a fantastic way to stay fit and enjoy the quiet beauty of winter. Whether you've never been on skinny skis before or you want to improve your off-trail skills, the Mazama Nordic Ski School has a class for you! The course consists of one student orientation session at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on January 3, 2024, and three field sessions between January 20 and February 7, 2024. Learn more by attending our Info Night on Tuesday, November 7, 2023, at 6:30 p.m. on Zoom! If you have any questions about the Mazama Nordic Ski School, you can also email nordic@mazamas.org.

BEACON ROCK TRAIL TENDING

Washington Trails Association, who will provide the tools, equipment and oversight (including hard hats). The work day runs from 8:30 to 3:30, and no experience is necessary, sign up today! ■ Dec. 7: tinyurl.com/BeaconDec7 ■ Dec. 14: tinyurl.com/BeaconDec14

FIRST AID

Trail Trips, Climb Committee, and other Mazama education courses that require a Mazama First Aid course for their leader will have acceptance priority based on course space availability.

■ Dates: December 7 and 14 Sign up to help improve and repair the well-loved and much-used trails in Beacon Rock State Park. We will be working in collaboration with

Mazama members and nonmembers can use the following quick links to access information including course offerings and registration dates: ■ CPR and Hike Leader First Aid courses: mazamas.org/cpr ■ Wilderness First Aid: mazamas.org/wfa ■ Mountain First Aid: mazamas.org/mfa

For additional information on these courses, contact firstaid@mazamas.org.

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WELCOME MESSAGE by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

elcome to this special edition of the Mazama Bulletin. Whether you're reading this after exploring the Oregon Historical Society’s exhibit, The Mazamas: For the Love of Mountains, or if you’re a Mazama member, I hope this provides a deeper insight into our rich history. Curating this exhibit presented challenges—how do you encapsulate 129 years of Mazama history, achievements, and stories within a 600-square-foot space? The struggle of what to include and what to omit weighed heavily on my mind and those who assisted me in this project. After weeks of brainstorming, the original charter of the Mazamas emerged as a focal point, highlighting the organization’s core intentions: exploring Northwest peaks, researching and preserving the environment, and sharing these findings with the community. Building on this foundation, we emphasized the organization's main thrusts: education, research, conservation, and the cherished elements of our library and publications. Throughout the exhibit, we aimed to weave in the common thread that underlies everything the Mazamas represents—community. Choosing whom to spotlight and what to exclude from over a century of stories and accomplishments was no small task. The curatorial decisions aimed to acknowledge our founding and founders while showcasing the evolution of the organization over time. With over 8,000 objects at our disposal, selecting what to exhibit became a delicate balance between showcasing unseen items from decades

past and those directly aligned with the exhibit’s main themes. For instance, the original print of the Cooper Spur climb on July 19, 1894, hasn’t seen public eyes since the 1990s, and Marianna Kearney’s hand-painted parka has never been displayed before. Inevitably, tough decisions had to be made regarding which stories to tell, which objects to exhibit, and which activities and accomplishments to highlight. Have we omitted significant elements? Undoubtedly. Yet, I earnestly hope and believe that we have captured the spirit and sense of community that defines the Mazamas. This exhibit could not have been completed without the help of the following individuals. Allison Ackerman, who was my summer library intern while completing her master’s degree in Library Science, was instrumental in helping me develop the exhibit’s themes. Peter Boag’s support, research, and assistance were invaluable in getting the exhibit off the ground and into the halls of the Oregon Historical Society. Rebekah Phillips, in one of her first big decisions as executive director, helped me find the focus of the

COOPER SPUR PHOTOGRAPH

exhibit and has been a steadfast supporter from the beginning. Special thanks to Ali Gray and Ethan Allred for their editorial support and copyediting skills. And finally a huge thanks to Brent Owens and the staff at Beards Framing in Hazel Dell, Washington for all their work printing the materials for the exhibit. I extend a warm invitation to both our members and the public to visit and experience the exhibit firsthand. Your presence will undoubtedly enrich this celebration of our shared love for the mountains. Much of what follows in this issue is the text from the exhibit. Enjoy the read and please visit the exhibit to see many of the items referred to but not shown here. The exhibit runs November 10, 2023, until March 24, 2024.

On July 19, 1894, during the Mazama group’s inaugural Mt. Hood ascent, Charles C. Lewis, a Monmouth, Oregon-based photographer, captured this iconic climbing photograph. This image possesses a unique allure, inspiring an immediate call to adventure for viewers. It encapsulates Mazama members’ early enthusiasm and essence, despite the climbers’ unconventional attire and lack of proper equipment in the surreal alpine setting. This original 20 by 24-inch print of Charles C. Lewis’s photograph showcases the Cloud Cap Inn party dramatically silhouetted on Cooper Spur’s pinnacle. In 1940, the sister of Cooper Spur climber and charter member George Edward Williams generously donated this print to the Mazamas. For nearly six decades, it remained framed, concealing a hidden treasure on its reverse. In the late 1990s, during careful removal from its frame, an unexpected revelation emerged: a list of names on the photograph’s back, shedding light on the climbers’ identities and further enriching this remarkable historical visual record. 8 MAZAMAS

THE MAZAMAS: FOR THE LOVE OF MOUNTAINS AN EXHIBIT AT THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY CELEBRATES THE HISTORY AND COMMUNITY OF THE MAZAMAS.

mbark on a captivating journey through 129 years, and discover how Oregon’s Mazamas emerged as one of the preeminent mountaineering and conservation organizations in the United States. Fittingly formed at the summit of Mt. Hood (Wy’East) in 1894, the ties of the Mazamas run deep throughout the Pacific Northwest, from founding president and Portland notable William Gladstone Steel’s pioneering work to establish Crater Lake National Park to its early role in building the iconic Eagle Creek Trail in the Columbia River Gorge. This exhibit provides an immersive exploration of the historic past and vibrant future of the Mazamas, marked by its dedication to advancing responsible outdoor recreation, fostering educational opportunities, and cultivating a robust sense of community across the region. Since its modest inception atop Mt. Hood, the organization’s scope has expanded to embrace an array of outdoor pursuits beyond mountaineering, ranging from hiking and canyoneering to rock climbing and skiing. Complementing these endeavors, the Mazamas has maintained an important role as

champions of conservation, scientific inquiry, and environmental advocacy. At the heart of the Mazama ethos lies a steadfast commitment to community, a thread woven into every facet of its identity and the driving force behind the organization’s continued evolution. As you look back upon the history of the Mazamas, so too will you learn how the Mazamas is building a more inclusive and accessible tomorrow, connecting ever more Oregonians to their natural love of mountains.

Editor’s note: due to the large number of photographs and objects shared in these pages and for the sake of clarity and readability, you will find all the captions and citations on page 40.

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BECOMING THE MAZAMAS

he history of the Mazamas began in early 1894 when Oregon mountaineer William Gladstone Steel and several Oregon Alpine Club members met to organize a new society. They hoped to fulfill Steel’s vision of a Pacific Northwest mountaineering organization that would be second to none in climbing, exploration, and scientific achievement.

The group drafted a constitution in March and chose the name Mazamas. At the time, the word “Mazama” was thought to come from the Nahuatl language and refer to mountain goats and deer, although this is now known to be incorrect. Still, the founders chose that name, along with the symbol of the mountain goat, to represent the organization due to mountain goats’ surefootedness on alpine slopes. All members had to climb a glaciated peak, they decided, to ensure that only experienced mountaineers would be part of the organization. This requirement was removed by a vote of the members in 2023 in recognition of the organization’s changing approach to inclusivity and the importance of increasing public awareness to the impacts of climate change. The group chose the summit of Mt. Hood as the location to launch their new organization and placed an advertisement for the event in Northwest newspapers. On July 19, 1894, more than 350 people assembled near the hamlet of Government Camp at

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the base of Mt. Hood. Despite the nasty weather, 155 men and 38 women reached the summit, where they elected Steel as the society’s first president. The Mazamas, the third-oldest mountaineering society in the United States, set for itself four goals: ■ to explore snow-capped peaks and other mountains, ■ to collect scientific knowledge about the mountain environment, ■ to preserve the natural beauty of forests and mountains, ■ and to share that knowledge with others in the Pacific Northwest. With its goals established, the organization hit the ground running under the leadership of William Steel, whose ability to rally like-minded individuals positioned him well to set the organization on a path of growth and long-term impact.

FOUNDING THE MAZAMAS

Edward Whymper’s Scrambles Amongst the Alps helped popularize mountaineering and the rise of outdoor recreation. His book, about his pioneering 1865 ascent of the Matterhorn, marked the first documented climb of this iconic peak. Beyond its adventurous accounts, the book provided valuable insights into equipment, techniques, and safety measures. It shaped the cultural mythology of mountain exploration as a challenging yet beautiful pursuit, while earning it respect as an activity. In 1894, William Steel and other former members of the Oregon Alpine Club (OAC) released The Cliff Climbers, announcing the establishment of the Mazamas. Years earlier, the OAC had placed a summit register atop Mt. Hood, where the founding members signed their names. Steel recorded the founding of the Mazamas in his scrapbooks, collecting photographs from July 19, 1894, and newspaper clippings. These scrapbooks serve as invaluable primary sources, offering a tangible link to the origins of the Mazamas, early outdoor recreation in the Pacific Northwest, and the broader history of the region at the turn of the 20th century.

MAZAMA LOGO

The iconic Mazama Logo, which has remained unchanged since its inception in 1895, was the brainchild of Louis B. Akin. In the inaugural edition of the Mazama Annual, Akin described the badge’s design as a circle encompassing a triangle with a central dot. Notably, this design was a conventional emblem utilized by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey symbolizing “mountain.” The triangle, depicted in white, also represented the pristine alpine snow, contrasting against the backdrop of a blue sky. Atop this composition, the regal head of a mazama, or mountain goat, rested upon a scroll displaying the name “Mazama.”

THE ROLE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Photography played a pivotal role in the early days of outdoor recreation, offering enthusiasts a unique medium to document their adventures and connect with a broader community. Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, when outdoor recreation was still emerging, photographs served as more than mere mementos—they were essential tools for planning routes, exploring uncharted terrain, and understanding the ever-changing conditions of natural landscapes. These images not only showcased daring escapades and breathtaking scenery but also facilitated the sharing of knowledge among outdoor enthusiasts. Photography not only allowed outdoor aficionados to map uncharted territories, but it also united a community of like-minded individuals. These photographs captured the essence of outdoor recreation, fueling interest in adventurous pursuits and inspiring generations of outdoor enthusiasts. In essence, photography played a vital role in preserving the history of outdoor recreation, fostering a sense of community among adventurers, and deepening their appreciation for the natural beauty of the great outdoors.

ALPENSTOCKS

Alpenstocks, wooden staffs with a metal tip, have a rich history deeply intertwined with early mountaineering and hiking. Originating in the Alpine regions of Europe, these sturdy walking sticks were indispensable for adventurers navigating challenging terrain. Alpenstocks provided stability on treacherous mountain slopes, aided balance when crossing glaciers, and were valuable tools for probing snow and ice for hidden crevasses. Their metal tips, known as ferrules, ensured secure footing on rocky surfaces. As mountaineering evolved from a practical necessity into a recreational pursuit in the 19th century, alpenstocks became iconic symbols of outdoor exploration. Early mountaineers and hikers, such as John Muir and Edward Whymper, relied on these versatile tools to ascend some of the world’s highest peaks and explore the most breathtaking landscapes. Even today, as modern mountaineering and hiking equipment has advanced, alpenstocks remain cherished artifacts. They symbolize not only the history of early mountaineering but also the enduring spirit of outdoor enthusiasts who appreciate their practicality and connection to the past, whether it’s in the high mountains or on scenic hiking trails. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 11

FAY FULLER

Fay Fuller was a pioneering American mountaineer and the first known woman to successfully climb Mt. Rainier, the highest peak in the state of Washington. Born on October 25, 1869, in Tacoma, Washington, Fuller developed a deep love for the outdoors and a passion for climbing at an early age. At the age of 15, she embarked on her historic ascent of Mt. Rainier. Her journey to the summit was filled with challenges, including treacherous terrain and adverse weather conditions. However, on August 9, 1909, Fuller achieved her goal and stood atop the 14,411-foot peak. Fay Fuller’s accomplishment was groundbreaking at a time when mountaineering was primarily a male-dominated pursuit. Her successful climb not only inspired other women to explore the world of mountaineering but also contributed to the growing popularity of outdoor recreation in the Pacific Northwest. Fuller was a founding member of the Mazamas and was elected as vice president of the organization in 1894. She continued to be an advocate for women in mountaineering throughout her life and remained a prominent figure in the climbing community until her passing in 1958.

FRANK B. RILEY

Frank Branch Riley was just 19 years old when he climbed to the summit of Mt. Hood with the other soon-to-be Mazamas on July 19, 1894. His alpenstock, used that day and seen here, is one of the most prized objects held by the Mazamas. Riley joined in 1905, later served as president from 1915–16, and remained a member long enough to help the organization celebrate its 75th anniversary in 1969. Beyond that, Riley was a prominent figure who played a crucial role in promoting the natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest, particularly Oregon. He was known for his captivating lectures and illustrated tours that showcased the region’s breathtaking landscapes, including mountains like Mt. Hood. Riley’s efforts aimed to attract tourists and economic development to Oregon through improved infrastructure, such as good roads and bridges. He believed that tourism was a valuable industry that could benefit both the environment and the state’s economy. Riley’s dedication to his mission was unwavering, and he continued his lecture tours for several decades.

ICE AXES

The evolution of ice axes in mountaineering is a testament to both innovation and adaptation. Ice axes in the late 19th and early 20th centuries were relatively simple tools, featuring a wooden shaft with a metal head that had a single pick and a rudimentary adze for cutting steps in ice. These axes were versatile but lacked the technical precision needed for advanced ice and alpine climbing. However, as mountaineering evolved and terrain became more challenging, so did the design of ice axes. In the mid-20th century, the introduction of curved picks, ergonomic shafts, and specialized designs revolutionized ice axe technology. These innovations allowed climbers to tackle steeper and more technical ice and mixed terrain with greater efficiency and safety. Today’s ice axes are a far cry from their early counterparts, offering lightweight materials, modular designs, and specialized features for ice and alpine climbing. This reflects the ongoing importance of enhancing the safety and performance of mountaineers in the world’s most demanding environments.

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WILLIAM GLADSTONE STEEL Go and see Will Steel; he knows all about the mountains, he all but made ‘em.’’

illiam Gladstone Steel was one of the earliest and most influential drivers of the development of mountaineering as a sport in the Northwest. By all accounts, Steel was a remarkable individual, full of enthusiasm and sense of purpose. He had what has been described as a missionary’s zeal for teaching people to climb and to appreciate and preserve the mountains and their environment. He was also a devoted conservationist. Born in Stafford, Ohio in 1854, Steel moved with four of his brothers to Portland, Oregon in 1872. There, he attended Portland High School and in 1878 was hired as the circulation manager for the Portland Evening Bee. He later went on to establish the Albany Herald and held positions with the U.S. Post Office in Portland and Dyea, Alaska, where he also met his wife Lydia Hatch. Steel was active in many civic organizations throughout his life and helped found, in 1898, the Oregon Historical Society. Before he founded the Mazamas, Steel first established another regional mountaineering organization, the Oregon Alpine Club, in 1887. However, it went bankrupt seven years later, in 1894. In addition to mountaineering, Steel was interested in geographic place names. Over his lifetime, he created an index card database of regional place names that he later donated to the Library of Congress. Steel was the first president of the Oregon Geographic Names Board, between 1908 and 1911. Besides helping to create Crater Lake National Park and the Mazamas, Steel also named Crater Lake’s Wizard Island and Mt.

Multorpor near Government Camp. Mt. Steel on the Olympic Peninsula and the Steel Cliffs on Mt. Hood are just two of the locations named in his honor.

THE WORK OF WILLIAM STEEL

During the early 19th century, pamphlets, booklets, and books emerged as invaluable tools for sharing knowledge and experiences, not only fostering the dissemination of scientific discoveries, cultural wisdom, and practical skills but also leveling the playing field for education and intellectual growth. Individuals like William Steel and his fellow enthusiasts adeptly employed these mediums to document their experiences, research findings, and scientific innovations, thereby making substantial contributions to society’s collective wisdom. William Steel’s only book, The Mountains of Oregon, is a collection of his essays related to his efforts to establish Crater Lake National Park and champion Oregon’s natural wonders. Additionally, his periodic series, Steel Points, showcases his love for Crater Lake, mountaineering, and his passion for place names. Captivating engravings and photographs help embellish his points in both works.

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CRATER LAKE

he extinct volcano that holds Crater Lake was given the name Mt. Mazama to recognize Mazama founder William Steel’s work to create Crater Lake National Park.

Steel first visited Crater Lake in 1885. Awed by the lake, then also known as Deep Blue Lake, he began a letter-writing campaign promoting the idea of making the lake part of a national reserve. Over the next 17 years, Steel worked tirelessly to promote the idea. Finally, on May 22, 1902, the U.S. Congress declared Crater Lake a national park. In 1913, Steel was appointed as the park’s second superintendent.

Crater Lake occupied a central role in Steel’s life, and a compelling testament to this connection can be found in this early 1914 map. It was Steel who spearheaded the expedition that meticulously measured the lake’s depths. The map’s markings reveal the routes embarked upon by Steel and his dedicated team, effectively retracing their journey across the lake’s expanse.

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MOUNTAINEERING

ountaineering encompasses a variety of activities including hiking, rock climbing, and ice climbing. Alpinism is a subset, focusing on high-altitude ascents involving snow, ice, and mixed terrain, but the two terms are often used interchangeably.

American mountaineering history dates back to the late 19th century, starting with domestic peak exploration. The early 20th century saw 0expeditions, like Denali’s 1913 North American ascent. Major advancements in mountaineering included the first climb of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 1958, ushering in a form known as big wall climbing. The 1970s and 80s brought major Alaskan and Himalayan achievements, while modern climbers like Alex Honnold have further pushed the limits with free soloing. The Pacific Northwest is a popular destination for mountaineers. The Cascade Range, which stretches from northern California to southern British Columbia,

is particularly well-known for its rugged beauty and challenging peaks. In the early 20th century, mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest experienced a surge in popularity, thanks in part to the efforts of the Mazamas. The Mazamas began meeting its first goal, “to explore snow-capped peaks and other mountains,” from the beginning. The organization played a key role in promoting mountaineering in the region, especially on Mt. Hood, including climbs in 1894, 1901, 1912, and 1923. In 1925, the Mazamas began leading an Annual Climb of Mt. Hood, and in 1932, began hosting Acquaintance Climbs, which eventually introduced hundreds, if not thousands, of

novice climbers to the art and science of climbing. Early on, Mazama climbs focused on the main peaks in the region, such as Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Rainier. However, as the membership grew and the means of access improved, the scope and range of peaks the Mazamas could climb expanded beyond the Cascades, eventually reaching around the globe. While mountaineering was the focus of the organization in the beginning, it is just one of many ways people engage with the Mazamas today.

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ROPES

Two significant advancements in climbing and mountaineering ropes have greatly improved safety and versatility in these outdoor activities. Firstly, the shift from natural fiber to synthetic ropes like nylon or polyester has provided greater strength, durability, resistance to moisture, and knot-holding capabilities. These synthetic ropes are also lighter, making them easier to manage during climbs. Secondly, the transition from static to dynamic ropes has been a game-changer, introducing elasticity to absorb the energy of falls. Dynamic ropes reduce impact forces on climbers, enhance lead climber protection, increase versatility across different climbing styles, and overall enhance safety by distributing forces more evenly on protection points. These innovations have made climbing and mountaineering more accessible and secure for outdoor enthusiasts around the world.

MAZAMA BLUE

In the late months of 1953 or early 1954, a notice surfaced on the bulletin board at the Mazama Pacific Building headquarters in downtown Portland. Though the specifics are somewhat vague, it appears that Carl and Phyllis Neuburger had discovered a textile mill capable of producing wool fabric in the signature Mazama blue. This fabric was available in two different weights, tailored for shirts and jackets, priced at $3 and $3.25 per yard, respectively. Members had the option to craft their own garments or enlist the services of local tailors and seamstresses. Today, the Mazama Library and Historical Collections showcases several examples of these Mazama blue shirts, their vibrant hue now softened by the passage of time and the relentless high-altitude sun. One can easily envision a procession of Mazamas, clad in freshly tailored blue shirts, embarking on a mountain trail adventure.

SUMMIT REGISTER CONTAINERS

Mountaineers have a longstanding tradition of commemorating their ascents on mountain summits, employing various methods over the years, from rock piles to engraved names and dates. The most common practice involves climbers leaving their names, the date of ascent, and a brief note on paper, enclosed in containers ranging from repurposed bean cans to handmade sheet metal boxes. In 1888, the Oregon Alpine Club initiated this tradition by placing copper boxes atop prominent Northwest peaks, including Mts. Hood, Rainier, St. Helens, and Adams. The Mazamas joined in summit box placement in 1903, but faced issues with box damage due to weather and wear, often resulting in the deterioration of the enclosed records. In 1929, they addressed this by designing sturdy, cast aluminum boxes. By 1961, 25 of these boxes graced summits across the Pacific Northwest. The Mazamas diligently maintained the boxes and preserved the registers until the early 1980s; however, a few boxes remain on summits around the region. Today, the Mazama Library houses over a century’s worth of summit registers and a substantial assortment of summit boxes, emphasizing humanity’s lasting quest to celebrate journeys and achievements.

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HIKING

he Mazama hiking program began on Sunday, April 6, 1912, when seven Mazamas, under the leadership of William Hardesty, left the Harborton railroad siding near present-day Linnton and hiked into what we know today as Forest Park.

By March of 1913, participation in the Local Walks, as they were called at the time, swelled to 160 people. From there the numbers took off. By the end of 1914, a record 3,690 people had taken part in Mazama hikes that year, at a time when Mazama membership totaled 311. Between 1912 and 1934, the Local Walks put on an average of 54 hikes and climbs per year with an average yearly participation of 2,500 people. The Local Walks’ single bestattended hike of all time was the April 4, 1937, Bonneville Dam hike with a record-

breaking 504 participants. In 1939, Edward Hughes donated a cup to be awarded to the person who attended the most hikes during the year; the first recipient was Charles Whittlesey. In 1953, the name of the committee was changed from Local Walks to Mazama Trail Trips. As the decades progressed, the number of Mazama-led hikes continued to climb, and participation kept pace. In 1966, awards were created for 250, 500, and 1,000 miles hiked. In 1967, Dorothy Bergstrom and Dorothy Rich received the first 1,000mile awards. In 1981, the committee organized and ran the first around-the-mountain-ina-day circumnavigation of Mt. Hood. In

1987, Wednesday evening hikes in Forest Park were started by Bob Miller. These hikes would eventually become the very popular Street Rambles that still run today on Tuesdays and Thursdays from downtown Portland. Today, the Mazamas leads over 300 hikes a year for all speed and activity levels.

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ROCK CLIMBING

ecreational rock climbing’s history in the United States began in the late 19th century, evolving from early endeavors on Appalachian and Rocky Mountain peaks to a 20th-century phenomenon characterized by improved equipment, safety measures, and iconic climbing destinations. The Pacific Northwest played a significant role in this history. Climbers drawn to the region’s challenging volcanic formations and cool climate have fostered a strong climbing community focused on responsible climbing ethics and innovative techniques. The Mazamas got into rock climbing as early as the 1930s. At the time, climbing was an extension of mountaineering, but by the 1960s it was becoming a stand-alone activity in its own right. On January 1, 1960, four Mazamas (Dave Bohn, Jim Fraser, Vivian Staender, and Gil Staender) made the first ascent of Monkey Face, a rock spire in what would become Smith Rock State Park. Two years later, in 1962, the Mazamas

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published Climber’s Guide to the Smith Rocks, the first climbing guide to the area. Over the next 20 years, Mazama and nonMazama climbers alike would continue putting up first ascents at Smith Rock. By the 1980s, the park’s distinctive red rock walls and diverse range of routes attracted climbers from across the nation. Smith Rock’s popularity not only contributed to the growth of climbing as a sport in the U.S., but also solidified its status as a global climbing destination, influencing the evolution of climbing standards and inspiring generations of climbers. Outside of Smith Rock, the Mazamas has pioneered rock climbing routes on Beacon Rock and Rooster Rock in the

Columbia River Gorge, at Horsethief Butte, the Menagerie, and in Leavenworth, WA, to name just a few. Today, rock climbing is as much a part of the Mazamas as high alpine climbing, with students in Basic, Intermediate, and Advanced courses learning the skills and techniques needed to safely climb across the region.

SKIING

DOWNHILL SKIS & POLES

inter sports have played a significant role in the history of the Mazamas. In the 1920s, the organization opened its first lodge near Mt. Hood, near the presentday community of Rhododendron. During this era, the Mazamas contributed to the development of winter sports infrastructure, including a toboggan run, ski runs, and a ski jump in Government Camp.

In 1931, the organization expanded its winter presence with the inauguration of a second lodge in Government Camp. By the end of the decade, skiing had become a primary focus for many Mazama members. They built a ski slope and rope tow, initiated ski lessons, and hosted an annual winter carnival, featuring the Hughes Cup alpine and Nordic races and ski jumping competition. The disruptions caused by World War II led to temporary cutbacks in winter sports activities, with no recorded ski events between 1943 and 1946. However, as peacetime returned, the Mazamas resurrected its winter offerings, including the rope tow, ski slope expansion, diverse ski lessons, and the resumption of the Hughes Cup races. In 1950, the Mazamas introduced its first ski mountaineering trip. By the mid1960s, skiing had emerged as a

In the 1930s, ski design evolved with the advent of laminated skis, combining layers of wood for increased durability and performance. Traditional wooden skis persisted, but innovations included streamlined shapes and metal edges for enhanced stability on various terrains. Ski poles, typically bamboo or hickory, featured leather wrist straps and metal or leather baskets, serving not only for balance but also propulsion through challenging snow conditions. Skis and poles in the 1930s were not just recreational tools but essential for practical transportation in snowy regions. The emphasis on functionality and durability reflected the growing popularity of skiing for work and leisure alike, laying the the groundwork for the continuous evolution of of winter sports equipment.

significant source of revenue generation for the organization. Nonetheless, in the late 1970s, as alternative alpine skiing opportunities proliferated and financial constraints loomed, the Mazamas downsized its alpine programs. The Hughes Cup made its final appearance in 1983, concluding the annual ski carnival. The rope tow ceased operation in 1982, reopened briefly in the following years, and was permanently disbanded in 2000. Despite these changes, the Mazamas maintained a strong interest in Nordic disciplines. In 1971, it established the Nordic Ski Committee, offering members various ski classes and backcountry tours. Today, in addition to the Nordic program, the Mazamas provides classes in backcountry skiing, an exhilarating fusion of skiing and mountaineering, reflecting the organization’s enduring commitment to winter sports. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 19

MT. HOOD

t. Hood, located in Oregon’s Cascade Range, stands as a significant geographical and cultural landmark in the Pacific Northwest. As a volcano formed over millennia, it holds the distinction of being Oregon’s highest peak and the fourth highest in the Cascade Range. European explorers first encountered the mountain in the late 18th century, renaming it after British Admiral Samuel Hood in 1792, though it was originally known as Wy’east by local Native American tribes, who consider it a sacred place of spiritual power. Mt. Hood’s allure for recreation and tourism was recognized by early European settlers, facilitated by the construction of the Barlow Road in 1845, which provided access to the mountain. Today, Mt. Hood remains a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts, home to ski resorts and recreational facilities, yet it retains its reputation as a challenging and unpredictable mountain, with ongoing climate change impacts. Despite these challenges, it endures as an iconic symbol of the Pacific Northwest, celebrated for its natural and cultural significance. The Mazamas acknowledges the profound impact of the area’s original Indigenous inhabitants on guiding, stewardship, and land management throughout the Pacific Northwest. Though many of the region’s peaks’ original names, given by Native tribes, are becoming more familiar locally, this exhibit primarily uses their Western names for broader recognition.

CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, mountaineering clothing and equipment were a far cry from the high-tech gear available today. Climbers of this era relied on sturdy yet rudimentary attire and tools for their daring ascents. For men, woolen knickers and thick, knee-high leather boots were common, providing some insulation against the harsh alpine elements. Heavy tweed jackets or coats, often waxed for water resistance, served as outerwear. For women, long woolen skirts and sturdy, high-laced leather boots were common choices, offering a degree of protection and warmth in the unpredictable mountain weather. Climbers donned leather gloves to protect their hands, and headgear typically included flat caps or woolen beanies. For equipment, alpinists wielded wooden ice axes and carried hemp ropes that, while strong, lacked the lightweight versatility of modern materials. Rucksacks made of canvas and leather were used for hauling provisions, and wooden hiking sticks provided balance and support on treacherous terrain. Mountaineering clothing and equipment have evolved significantly since the early 1900s. Advances in materials like GoreTex and synthetic fabrics have revolutionized outerwear, providing superior insulation and weather resistance. Modern layering systems offer adaptability to changing conditions, while lightweight and crampon-compatible boots have replaced heavy leather footwear. Safety equipment, including harnesses and helmets, is now made from strong yet lightweight materials, and navigation and communication technologies have greatly improved. Additionally, specialized climbing tools, eco-friendly gear, and advancements in avalanche safety have made mountaineering safer, more comfortable, and more sustainable, allowing adventurers to push the boundaries of exploration in challenging environments.

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RESEARCH

cientific research in an alpine environment offers a multitude of benefits and opportunities. First, it provides critical insights into the unique ecosystems found in high-altitude regions, aiding in biodiversity conservation and an understanding of the effects of climate change. Alpine environments also serve as natural laboratories for studying extreme conditions, helping scientists develop innovative technologies and solutions for harsh environments on Earth and potentially beyond. Additionally, research in these settings contributes to our understanding of geology, glaciology, and hydrology, crucial for assessing natural hazards like avalanches and landslides. Furthermore, alpine research often involves interdisciplinary collaboration, promoting a holistic approach to solving complex environmental and societal challenges. The Mazamas got to work on its second stated goal, “to collect scientific knowledge about the mountain environment,” from the beginning. Early on, members acted as scientists (both as professionals and amateurs), mainly in the areas of geography, botany, and glaciology. By 1924, a Research Committee was founded, and by 1925, the Mazamas made studies of glaciers on mountains in the Pacific Northwest,

particularly Mt. Hood. By 1935, it was decided to extend this study to other glaciers and other mountains by means of aerial photography. Aerial photography of glaciers offers essential insights into their dynamic behavior and response to climate change, providing valuable data by capturing inaccessible surface features and glacier size from unique perspectives. The Mazamas financed aerial photography in the 1930s, 40s, and into the 50s. In 1959, the Research Committee funded efforts led by Mazama Jack Miller

to publish the first full contour map of Mt. Hood. In the 1960s, the Mazamas shifted away from doing primary research, instead focusing on funding university undergraduate and graduate research through grants.

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ELIOT GLACIER

n 1924, a dedicated team from the Mazama Research Committee embarked on a significant scientific journey by studying Eliot Glacier on the slopes of Mt. Hood. Their choice of Eliot Glacier was not arbitrary; it represented the quintessential mountain glacier, boasting distinctive features and holding the title of being the longest ice stream on Mt. Hood. This glacier presented a unique opportunity to unlock the secrets of glacier behavior, specifically how these colossal rivers of ice move and transform in response to factors like temperature and snowfall patterns.

To unravel the mysteries of Eliot Glacier’s dynamics, these researchers utilized specialized tools, including stadia boards, to conduct precise measurements of the glacier’s size and movement. These measurements were taken from carefully selected vantage points, such as research stations and observation posts. The data collected allowed them to track how this glacier evolved over time. Remarkably, as early as 1954, the Mazama Research Committee reached a sobering conclusion based on their extensive research. Their findings suggested that, much like numerous

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glaciers in the northern hemisphere, the glaciers on Mt. Hood were shrinking. At the time of this discovery, our understanding of climate change was just beginning. The intricate connection between human activities, particularly greenhouse gas emissions and the emerging global warming phenomenon, was not as evident as it is today. The groundbreaking work of the Mazama Research Committee throughout the 1920s, 30s, 40s, and 50s, alongside research in other geographical locations, played a vital role in recognizing and documenting shifts in the natural environment.

RESEARCH GRANTS

n the 1960s, the Mazamas initiated the Mazama College Thesis Assistance Program, which evolved over time, ultimately providing grants of up to $3,000 in the 1990s across various fields. In 1998, the program expanded, encompassing standard and advanced research grants, travel scholarships, and graduate student research stipends. Selection criteria emphasize factors like potential for success, effective communication of results, career advancement, and community involvement. Since its inception, the Mazamas has funded over 200 research studies, covering diverse areas such as glacier studies, environmental impacts, geology, ecology, climate change, botany, volcanic and geological features, and human influences on natural spaces. Today, the organization primarily supports studies focused on outdoor environments in the Pacific Northwest and the interplay between humans and nature. Research topics have spanned from trout thermal resilience to rock climber injuries. The most substantial portion of grants has been allocated to glacier research, examining their dynamics over time and their environmental repercussions.

NORTHWEST SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH PIONEERS

t. Hood holds a significant place in the identity of the Mazamas, which has dedicated decades to exploring its diverse geographical features, including hiking trails and glaciers. Within this collection, you’ll find the cover and map derived from the 1938 aerial survey of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, showcasing the organization’s efforts to photograph these glaciers. Accompanying these are photographs of the researchers themselves and two captivating images they captured during their expedition. Subsequently, the Mazamas conducted thorough research on the dynamics of Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier, as evidenced by two of the field notebooks used to document scientific data and observations. The presence of essential scientific tools like a compass, altimeter, and binoculars played a crucial role in enabling accurate data collection, providing researchers with valuable insights into the mountain’s dynamic environment. Notably, the weathered Mazama pennant, proudly carried by Gil and Vivian Steander to the Endicott Mountains in Alaska’s Brooks Range, signifies their year-long sojourn in the remote Alaskan Arctic. Their mission: to investigate the impact of pesticide residue on the local wildlife. Their groundbreaking research, aided by these scientific instruments, ultimately illuminated the fact that pesticide residue posed a threat to wildlife even in the vast wilderness of the Arctic.

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CONSERVATION

ne of the enduring legacies of founding member William Steel within the Mazamas was his profound commitment to conservation, which has in turn helped foster a sense of community within the organization. Steel’s vision was rooted in the belief that by bringing more people’s attention to the beauty of natural areas, the preservation of these landscapes would be assured. This commitment to conservation is eloquently embodied in the third pillar of the Mazama charter, which states, “to preserve the natural beauty of forests and mountains.” In a striking example from the mid-1920s, the Mazamas stood in opposition to a plan to construct a cable tramway on the northeast flank of Mt. Hood. Fortunately, this grandiose scheme was thwarted by the onset of the Great Depression. The organization continued its conservation endeavors in the ensuing decades, establishing a dedicated Conservation Committee in 1950. This committee’s mission included safeguarding Washington state’s Olympic National Park from attempts to reduce its size. Additionally, a noteworthy contribution came from within the Mazama community itself, as Fred Cleator, a dedicated member, played a pivotal role in the creation of Forest Park, the largest urban park in the United States, nestled in the West Hills of Portland. In more recent times, the Mazamas has directed its conservation efforts toward a variety of vital projects. These initiatives encompass actions such as the removal of barbed-wire fences at the Hart Mountain Antelope Reserve, the restoration of vegetation in degraded areas at Klamath Marsh, the rejuvenation of salmon populations in small streams, and concerted efforts to curb the expansion of Mt. Hood Meadows. These endeavors not only exemplify the ongoing Mazama commitment to preserving natural beauty but also underscore how the Mazama

community has been instrumental in driving these essential conservation initiatives, nurturing a stronger sense of unity and shared purpose among its members.

TRAIL WORK

n 1995, Janet Johnson, chair of the Mazama Conservation Committee, declared, “If you aspire to be a true Mazama, with values that go deeper than your boots…you must love those mountains dearly with hearts and souls, hard work, and a never-ending vigilance.” This sentiment underscores how conservation work has been integral to the Mazama community’s identity and sense of purpose. The Mazamas has contributed to the establishment and restoration of numerous trails across the Pacific Northwest, reflecting the organization’s unwavering commitment to preserving the region’s natural beauty. These efforts have included building the Tanner Creek and Eagle Creek Punchbowl trails, trail maintenance within Forest Park and the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, and the transformation of the Mazama

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Trail ( formerly the Cathedral Ridge Trail) in the Mt. Hood National Forest. The organization’s ongoing trail-tending initiatives are open to both members and non-members, helping build community through conservation. The efforts of the Mazamas continue to contribute significantly to the preservation of cherished Pacific Northwest landscapes.

FOREST PARK

n 1944, Fred Cleator and Harrie Jennison led the Mazamas in a conservation project to establish the Mazama Forest, a portion of present-day Forest Park. By 1945, their efforts resulted in the establishment of the Hardesty Trail. In 1948, the city formally dedicated 4,000+ acres as Forest Park, and the organization’s reforestation efforts had resulted in over 10,000 trees planted. The Mazamas has continued its connection to Forest Park through fundraising and trail-tending efforts. In 1995, the organization raised nearly $10,000 for the Fix the Hole in Forest Park campaign to purchase 73 acres located in the park’s core, which was acquired and donated to the city in 1999. From 2001–2005, Jane Miller led Mazama trail-tending efforts to restore the Hardesty and Linnton trails, logging over 750 hours of volunteer work removing invasive species, installing culverts, and regrading large sections of the trails.

MAZAMA TRAIL

ince the foundational climb on July 19, 1894, the Mazamas has maintained a deep connection with Mt. Hood. That is why, in celebration of the organization’s centennial anniversary in 1994, the Mazamas undertook the task of restoring Mt. Hood’s Cathedral Ridge Trail to what is now known as the Mazama Trail No. 625. Beginning in 1992, Ray Sheldon, Stan Egbert, and 145 volunteers devoted 3,400 hours to rebuilding the trail, including reconstructing and rerouting significant portions. By the time it was completed five years later, it was estimated that the Mazamas provided the U.S. Forest Service with $40,000 in volunteer time and expertise. At the time, it was the largest volunteer project undertaken on forest service land in the nation. The Mazamas continues to maintain this trail through its trail-tending efforts.

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PROTECTING OUR WILDLANDS AND ACCESS TO THEM

The organization’s efforts range from early contributions to the development of the Eagle Creek Trail in the Columbia River Gorge to advocating for the establishment of the Office of Outdoor Recreation in 2017. Over the years, the Mazamas has played a pivotal role in preserving the Cascade Range Forest Preserve, staunchly opposing the reduction of Olympic National Park, and countering multiple attempts to construct tramways on regional peaks. Closer to its home base, the Mazamas championed the creation of Portland’s Forest Park and participated in reforestation initiatives, resulting in the formation of the Mazama Forest. A glimpse into this rich history includes Marianna Kearney’s original scrapbook, Trips with the Mazamas, seen here, chronicling an anniversary trip to the Mazama Forest and the Hardesty Trail on April 15, 1945. On display is one of the original Mazama Trail signs and a patch awarded to volunteers who transformed the old Cathedral Ridge into today’s Mazama Trail. In 2002, Jane Miller, a dedicated Mazama, documented efforts to restore sections of the Hardesty Trail in Forest Park with her husband, Dick Miller, conceptualizing a concrete step to aid trail navigation. For their tireless work, Mazama Trail Tending volunteers were presented with kerchiefs, as exemplified by the one showcased here. Even as early as the 1950s, the Mazamas was an advocate for responsible recreation with minimal environmental impact, as evident in the Pardon Me brochure on display. The organization’s commitment to this ethos predates the Leave No Trace movement by two decades. Additionally, the Mazamas consistently encouraged its members and participants to demonstrate respect for the land, as highlighted in the etiquette section of the 1980s-era Mazama Handbook.

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LODGES IN THE MOUNTAIN WEST

ountain lodges have been part of the American West’s outdoor scene since the late 19th century. At that time, the growing urban middle class had increasingly begun to seek the outdoors for recreation. One of the earliest lodges in Oregon was Cloud Cap Inn on Mt. Hood’s northeastern flank, funded by Portland banker William M. Ladd and colorful local attorney C. E. S. Wood in 1889. While a few such private individuals pioneered recreational lodges, much of the credit for developing the West’s early outdoor tourist trade goes to the transcontinental railroads. Hoping to promote tourist travel, railroad executives lobbied for national parks near their lines and funded the construction of lodges near such places. Architects of these western lodges drew from styles ranging from the Arts and Crafts Movement to Swiss Alpine chalets, and often incorporated Indigenous design elements. Among the grandest of such early structures are the Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone, 1904; El Tovar at Grand Canyon, 1905; and several striking lodges in Glacier National Park built in the 1910s. Private investors and governmental agencies also promoted the construction of lodges in the Pacific Northwest. In 1925, the City of Portland built Multnomah Falls Lodge as overnight accommodations for automobilists traveling the recently

completed scenic Columbia River Highway. In 1927, entrepreneurs in Bellingham, Washington, constructed the Mt. Baker Lodge. Between 1936 and 1938, the federal government built what is arguably Oregon’s most famous rustic lodge, Timberline on Mt. Hood. The Mazamas first began formal consideration of its own lodge at Mt. Hood in 1904. Nothing seems to have come of this idea except for the excited talk it generated in the press. In 1917, however, the Mazamas narrowed its focus to two possible locations for a remote lodge. One was at Mt. Hood, but the one that received the most attention was a location along Herman Creek, four miles east of Cascade Locks. But a decision was put off for six more years, during which time the Mazamas cast its hopes once again toward Mt. Hood, which it described as our nearest and dearest mountain.

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TWIN BRIDGES

he construction of a 20 by 33 foot, two-story, timber-framed cabin at Mt. Hood’s Twin Bridges in 1923 marked an important milestone in Mazama history—the realization of the dream of a mountain home.

On land leased from the U.S. Forest Service, the structure consisted of a living room, kitchen, and wood storage on the ground floor, with an attic and storage under the eaves. A stone fireplace provided warmth. In the small kitchen, there was a stove, shelving, and a sink with hot water. A small woodshed provided ample space for wood while also providing shelter for the building’s rear entrance.

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By the fall of 1925, however, it had become apparent that the cabin at Twin Bridges had already outgrown the needs of the membership. At the annual meeting that year, a push was made to establish a lodge with better access to the mountain. A Paradise Park location was the favorite, but it was necessary to obtain the permission of the U.S. Forest Service to build on the site. The Mazamas set about finding a new location, closer to Mt. Hood.

LOG LODGE

y the winter of 1931, a building site on the slopes of Mt. Hood had been chosen for the new lodge’s location. The site, directly south of the summit of the mountain, provided eyefilling panoramas of woodland, mountains, and sky.

The new lodge was a hit, not only with the Mazamas, but also with other outdoor organizations. Over 2,000 people stayed at the lodge in 1935 alone. Over the coming years, the members witnessed many transitions, from gasoline lanterns to electric lights, from wood stoves to the oil furnace, and the introduction of butane gas stoves in the kitchen.

On Thursday, December 4, 1958, the Mazama Log Lodge was consumed by fire. The caretakers at the time were George and Helen Bertrand, a very personable couple who were also Mazama members. Adding to the unfolding disaster was the death of Ruth Reitsma, Helen’s mother, who succumbed to a heart attack while running to Government Camp to summon help. In the end, the lodge was a complete loss.

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MAZAMA LODGE

wo years and ten days after the Log Lodge fire of 1958, over 600 people gathered for the dedication of the new Mazama Lodge.

Built with laminated beams and double tongue and groove millwork, the Mazama Lodge spans two floors—56 by 40 feet each—with expansive glass windows offering views of Mt. Hood to the north and Mt. Jefferson to the south. Balconies grace both dormitories on the second floor and the lodge’s southern side. In the great hall, a stone fireplace honors Rodney L. Glisan, the 1903 Mazama president. Designed by John W. Storrs, renowned for his Northwest Regional style featuring extensive use of unpainted wood, asymmetrical floor plans, ample glass, low-pitched roofs with

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overhanging eaves, and minimal decoration, the lodge is one of his notable works, alongside the Salishan Lodge, Sokol Blosser Winery’s original tasting room, and the Oregon College of Art & Craft campus. Today, the Mazama Lodge serves as a base for the organization’s education programs, hosts events, and provides accommodations to members, partners, and the public. It stands as a symbol of community, rebuilt with the support of the Mazama community itself.

MAZAMA COMMUNITY

The Mazamas holds a deep appreciation for its annual gatherings and events. These occasions, including banquets, dances, campfires, week-long outings, and holiday gatherings, are the lifeblood of camaraderie and community-building among members. Banquets and dances are moments to celebrate achievements and forge new connections, while campfires nurture intimate settings for storytelling and tradition. Week-long outings deepen members’ passion and skills, and holiday gatherings infuse festivity into the group. These events not only enrich the member experience but also ensure the organization’s longevity and vitality by passing down its values and traditions. From 1894 to 1959, the Mazamas conducted an Annual Outing, a significant yearly ritual that primarily explored Cascadian peaks. However, the commitment of several days just for travel from Portland limited participation. The outings involved various roles, including cooks and camp porters. As the 1960s approached, the concept of a single Annual Outing began to fade, leading the Mazamas to embrace multiple outings to cater to evolving member needs and interests. The Mazama tradition of banquets began atop Mt. Hood in 1894, initially with a whimsical menu featuring items like “snowball bisque.” Over the years, these banquets gained significance, becoming focal points for community building and celebration. Held at different venues across the city, they included awards ceremonies and featured notable speakers like Jim Whittaker, Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, and Alan Watts. These banquets fostered a strong sense of belonging and community among members, though the tradition eventually gave way to other events like The Summit at the Portland Alpine Fest.

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MOUNTAIN GOAT & SHELF

In the chaotic moments following the discovery of the fire, guests and members scrambled to salvage what they could. As the flames intensified, they managed to rescue an upright piano, a set of dining chairs adorned with intricately-carved goats, and a hand-carved goat. It might seem peculiar today that the piano was a priority, but back then, pianos held significant value. Fast forward to the present, and these artifacts—the piano, the chairs, and the revered goat—still adorn the grand room of the current lodge. The goat maintains its prestigious position above the fireplace, resting on a shelf crafted from one of the charred cedar logs salvaged from the now-destroyed Log Lodge.

MARIANNA KEARNEY

Marianna Sinclair Kearney left an enduring legacy in both mountaineering and the arts as a prominent member of the Mazamas. Kearney’s journey with the organization began in 1944 when her family moved to Oregon, and she sought to join a hiking group in Portland. Marianna quickly became an active Mazama member, climbing Mt. Hood in 1945 and earning her Guardian Peaks award. In 1947, along with Ty Kearney, her future husband, Kearney dismantled a bicycle and carried it up Mt. Hood’s summit ridge, earning a spot in Ripley’s Believe It or Not!, showcasing the couple’s infectious enthusiasm for the mountains. Throughout her life, Marianna led hikes, pioneered new mountain routes, and engaged in international mountaineering and conservation efforts with Ty. Marianna and Ty volunteered as volcano watchers and barely survived the 1980 Mount St. Helens eruption; their race off the mountain is chronicled in the 1980 Mazama Annual. Marianna also trekked in the Himalayas in 1991, showcasing her enduring adventurous spirit. Even in later years, she embodied the Mazama spirit, passing an ice axe to the youngest member during the organization’s 2007 move. Marianna’s impact on the Mazama community and mountaineering world will be remembered for generations. Besides mountaineering, Marianna was a skilled artist, creating posters, illustrating cookbooks, contributing whimsical sketches to the Mazama Annual, and documenting her activities in personal, one-of-a-kind works like the one seen here. Marianna modified a WWII surplus parka with a hand-painted collar and cuffs and actively climbed in it. Her 18-page booklet, Mt. Hood South Side Climb, documents her first climb of Mt. Hood in 1945 with watercolors and a “word picture” of the climb. Also in this exhibit, you can see other examples of Marianna’s work, from the poster she did for the Mazama Lodge to her work documenting the Mazama Forest.

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THE ROLE OF WOMEN

The Mazamas, from the start, welcomed women as equal members, an uncommon practice at the time. The founders of the Mazamas emphasized the importance of women mountaineers by stating that no climb was complete without them. In 1895, the Mazamas elected two female vice-presidents, and in 1917 appointed its first female climb leader. In 1933, the organization held its first all-female climb, elected its first female president in 1953, and in 1962 a woman chaired the Climbing Committee. This inclusive spirit persisted over the years, with men and women participating equally in all aspects of the Mazamas. Women consistently represented between a quarter and a third of the membership. The annual outings in the early days allowed both men and women to explore the wilderness, breaking traditional gender roles and promoting equality in the mountains. Women leaders in the Mazamas took pride in setting an example, reinforcing the idea that women were just as capable as men in this challenging pursuit. In 1966, the second all-female Mazama climb of Mt. Hood took place, led by Dorothy Harrington and organized as the “Powder Puffs.” On the summit, the Puffs signed the blue and white Mazama flag seen here. A year later, in 1967, the Powder Puffs, led by “a pair of Dorothys”—Dorothy Harrington and Dorothy Rich—climbed Mount St. Helens. Twenty-eight women, ranging from age 14 to 64, reached the summit, where they were joined by Mazama President Clint Harrington for a celebration. The Powder Puffs continued their climbs, climbing Mt. Adams in 1968, Old Snowy in 1969, South Sister in 1970, Mt. Bachelor in 1971, and Pinnacle and Plummer Peaks in 1972.

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EDUCATION

ountaineering education holds a profound value that extends well beyond the realms of reaching summits. While it equips individuals with the technical skills necessary for scaling heights, its true worth lies in the broader life lessons mountaineering education offers. The challenges posed by the mountains teach resilience in the face of adversity and the importance of effective teamwork. Decision-making under high-stakes circumstances becomes a real-time practice, cultivating skills applicable in various life scenarios.

Mastering basic mountaineering skills such as knot tying, map reading, and hazard assessment nurtures self-reliance and confidence. These foundational skills translate to everyday life, enhancing problem-solving abilities and cultivating a mindset of adaptability. The paramount emphasis on safety protocols instills a deep respect for nature and heightens environmental consciousness. In essence, mountaineering education nurtures a holistic skill set that not only emboldens individuals for daring adventures, but also equips them with essential tools to navigate the complexities of the modern world with resilience and poise. Education has been central to the Mazamas since the beginning, when William Steel’s zeal for teaching people to climb and love the outdoors first infused the spirit of the organization.

The idea of an official Mazama education program was first floated in the 1920s, but it was not until the 1950s that the idea really took hold. The Mazama Basic School was established in 1950, followed by the Intermediate Climbing School in 1957 and the Advanced Climbing Program in 1966. In the years since, the Mazamas has added courses in skiing (backcountry, Nordic, and ski mountaineering), canyoneering, crevasse rescue, steep snow and ice, and numerous first aid offerings. In addition, many skill-builders have joined the rotation including basic rock skills, navigation, and avalanche awareness. Today, the Mazama educational programs serve over 650 students every year, ensuring that anyone can safely enjoy the outdoors.

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION

he Mazama Climbing School, established in 1950, offered educational opportunities for beginners, prioritizing safety training while offering an opportunity to join a community of fellow climbers. Initially, it focused on basic skills like knot-tying, belaying, rappelling, and navigation, with advanced topics like ice and rock climbing. It also instilled values of safety, responsible climbing, and environmental stewardship.

34 MAZAMAS

In 1996, the program evolved into the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), incorporating physical fitness, mental preparation, and the cultural aspects of mountaineering. Today, BCEP is the most sought-after Mazama course, reflecting its vital role as a gateway to mountaineering. Demand consistently exceeds capacity, highlighting its enduring importance. Additionally, BCEP serves as the foundation for the organization’s diverse climbing courses. With the Mazama community’s support, BCEP has become a cornerstone of mountaineering education, helping foster a strong sense of belonging within the organization.

INTERMEDIATE & ADVANCED

SKILL-BUILDERS & MORE

s interest in the mountains continued to grow, the Mazamas sought to meet the public’s demand for organized climbs.

To this end, the organization introduced the Intermediate Climbing School in 1957. Commonly known today as ICS, the course expanded on the skills developed in the Basic School and added snow camping, trip planning, and intermediate rock and snow skills. Today’s ICS teaches the skills necessary to organize private climbs and be a competent assistant or participant on advanced climbs. In 1966, the Mazamas introduced the Advanced Climbing School for students interested in the more technical aspects of mountaineering who had completed both the Basic and Intermediate schools. In 1991, the course’s name was changed to Advanced Rock in recognition of the curriculum’s shift to focus more on rock climbing. Today, it provides high-quality instruction and training to enable graduates to lead traditional climbs on vertical rock faces.

n addition to its flagship educational programs, the Mazamas offers a range of skillbuilders, mini courses, and other options. Listed below are the education courses currently offered by the Mazamas. ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Advanced Rock Backcountry Ski Touring Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) Canyoneering Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) First Aid: □ Wilderness First Aid □ Mountaineering First Aid □ CPR □ Hike Leader First Aid ■ Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) ■ Leadership Development ■ Nordic Skiing ■ Short Duration Courses: □ Knots 101 □ Map Reading □ Digital Trip Planning □ Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue ■ Practical Self-Rescue ■ Snow Series: □ Avalanche Awareness □ Crevasse Rescue with Snow Anchors ■ Steep Snow & Ice (SSI)

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 35

EDUCATING OUTDOOR RECREATIONISTS

or over 70 years, the Mazamas has been dedicated to training and educating people on safely enjoying and preserving mountain environments.

Recreationists have long relied on the book Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, a comprehensive guide from the Seattle-based Mountaineers organization, covering a wide range of climbing and outdoor topics for both beginners and experts, including basic skills, advanced techniques, safety, ethics, and preparedness. Additionally, the Mazamas has created its own guides, such as those for applying nails to boots, which were crucial in providing traction and durability for early climbers on rugged and icy slopes. While modern technology has largely replaced hobnailed boots, their historical significance remains in enhancing safety and performance in various demanding activities. This case also showcases gear used in rock climbing, including an early waist harness, a cam device for securing ropes in cracks, and a modern rappel device for safely descending from high points, ensuring a secure return to lower ground.

36 MAZAMAS

PUBLICATIONS

wo years after its founding, the Mazamas met the fourth goal for the organization, “to share that knowledge with others in the Pacific Northwest,” when it published the first issue of Mazama. Known today as the Mazama Annual, this first issue set the stage for decades to come with a combination of recaps of organizational activities, research articles, and conservation updates. Taking into account a few missed years early on, the Mazamas has published an annual uninterrupted every year since 1912. The Mazama Bulletin, a separate monthly publication chronicling the organization’s activities and members’ accomplishments, while also providing a platform for research and conservation updates, was first published in 1923. It continued an uninterrupted run until 2020, when it shifted to a bimonthly publication. Today, the bulletin reaches over 3,000 subscribers. In 1965, to mark its 75th anniversary, the Mazamas published We Climb High: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1894–1964. Written by John Scott, this thumbnail digest takes a year-by-year look at the climbs, outings, and achievements of the Mazamas and its members. Fifty years later, Mathew Brock led a team of 20 volunteers to compile and publish We Climb High, Vol. 2: 1965–2015 to mark the organization’s 125th anniversary. Over the years, the Mazamas has also published a series of climber’s guides to areas around the Pacific Northwest including Mt. Jefferson (1954); Mt. Hood (1956); Three Sisters, Mt.

OUTDOOR LITERATURE

Outdoor literature has played a pivotal role in popularizing recreational pursuits like climbing, hiking, and rock climbing, immersing readers in thrilling tales of adventure, recounting the challenges faced, and sharing personal triumphs in natural settings. Notable works such as Edward Whymper’s Scrambles Amongst the Alps and Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air have not only chronicled historic journeys but have also beautifully portrayed the irresistible allure of the great outdoors. Within the Mazama community, this literature has gone beyond inspiring individual outdoor enthusiasts. It has also served as a binding force, fostering a sense of shared passion and community spirit. The Mazamas, committed to sharing its adventures, research, and conservation efforts, has contributed significantly to this sense of community through its own publications. Since 1896, starting with Mazama (later known as the Mazama Annual), the organization has documented its outdoor activities and contributions to scientific research and conservation. In 1923, the Mazama Bulletin began providing timely information to the Mazama community. In 1965, for its 75th anniversary, the Mazamas published

Washington and Three Fingered Jack (1955); the Columbia Gorge (1958); Smith Rock (1962); the Sawtooth Range (1965); Eugene’s Chimney (1968); and Nevada’s Ruby and East Humboldt Mountains (1970). In 1968, the Mazamas published A Climber’s Guide to Oregon, by Nicholas Dodge, at the time the first comprehensive climbing guide to the state.

We Climb High: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1894–1964, which offers a year-by-year glimpse of the organization’s accomplishments. Fifty years later, We Climb High, Vol. 2: 1965– 2015, compiled by Mathew Brock and a team of volunteers, celebrated its 125th anniversary. Through its literature, the Mazamas has not only shared adventures but also fostered a close-knit community of outdoor enthusiasts, promoting a shared love for the great outdoors.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 37

MAZAMA LIBRARY

he Mazama Library, established in 1914, began with a modest donation of books by founding member Charles H. Sholes and has since expanded through contributions and member support to more than 7,500 titles today. Beyond books, it now holds historical records, photos, and mountaineering artifacts.

For the library’s first 85 years, it was led by a number of volunteer librarians—Mary Henthorne, Florence McNeil, Don Onthank, and Martha Darcy being the most notable among them. In 1970, Mazama climb leader Vera Dafoe recognized the need for the Mazamas to begin collecting mountaineering artifacts. For more than 45 years she worked to assemble, catalog, and manage the Mazama Library’s world-class collection of artifacts. In the 1980s, the library faced a decline, prompting the Board of Directors to warn of possible closure. Library volunteer Gary Beyl rallied a team of librarians, archivists, and volunteers to not only save the library but also spearhead an unforeseen expansion. In 1999, the Mazamas hired Robert Lockerby as the library’s first paid librarian. Jeff Thomas, a contract archivist, also dedicated over three decades to sourcing, cataloging, and safeguarding historical materials. In 2015, the Mazamas hired Mathew Brock as only the second professional librarian in the Mazama Library’s history. Today, the Mazama Library and Historical Collections is a testament to the value that the Mazamas has always placed on its history. It represents a vast wealth of information about mountaineering, Mazama history, and numerous other topics for Mazama members, researchers, and the public. The library would not be possible if not for the countless number of volunteers who over the years have given their most valuable of gifts, the gift of time. And this exhibit would not have been possible if not for all the work of all the people mentioned above and the continued support of the Mazama Library by the Mazamas.

38 MAZAMAS

THE FUTURE

he future of the Mazamas will be shaped just as its past—through an unwavering commitment to learning, exploration, and community. One year ago, the Mazamas overwhelmingly voted to do away with membership prerequisites and instead open its offerings to anyone, regardless of experience. This renewed commitment to access and inclusion marked the start of an exciting journey that more fully embraces the power of the mountains to illuminate the connecting threads that run throughout each of us. Though enhancing mountaineering programs remains at the heart of the Mazama vision, this new era calls for a modernized approach. Through partnerships and alliances, as well as sponsored research and expeditions, the Mazamas aspires toward a greater social impact to expand its awareness, share knowledge and resources, and adapt its offerings to better support both the basic and complex needs of an evolving community. The Mazamas of today faces another grave challenge: climate change. It is upon us, full stop. As glaciers disappear at alarming rates, the Mazamas is leveraging its legacy of leadership, fighting for the mountains, forests, and streams it so love. Here, too, the Mazamas is reaching outward, working with partner organizations, tribal communities, and government agencies to

advocate for critical environmental protections and restoration initiatives. The organization continues to improve its facilities toward carbon neutrality or better, and it operates within a code of ethics that embodies the Mazama conviction that caring for the land is caring for each other. At the center of it all is the dream of building a community that overcomes barriers not by dismissing differences but by understanding them. Driven by a deep love for the mountains, the Mazamas is working together to inspire more hearts, protect fragile ecosystems, and promote responsible outdoor practices. Now more than ever, the Mazamas is poised to embark on a new legacy that extends far beyond its climbs. Won’t you come along?

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 39

FOR THE LOVE OF MOUNTAINS CREDITS, CAPTIONS, AND CITATIONS Exhibit curated by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager, with assistance from Allison Ackerman, Adrienne C. Nelson High School Librarian; Peter Boag, Professor and Columbia Chair in the History of the American West at Washington State University; Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director; and Ethan Allred. Graphic design by Ali Gray and Mathew Brock. Printing made possible by Beard’s Framing, Hazel Dell, Washington.

All objects and images courtesy of the Mazama Library and Historical Collections (MLHC) unless otherwise noted. PAGE 8 ■ Cooper Spur photograph, 1894, by

C.C. Lewis. Cooper Spur party near the summit of Mt. Hood, July 19, 1894. MLHC VM1993.011.

PAGE 9 ■ Top: “The entrance to camp, that

welcomes all,” 1918 Mazama Eagle Cap Annual Outing camp. MLHC VM1999.037.

PAGE 10 ■ Behind: Mt. Hood summit register,

1891–1895, by the Mazamas. Summit register from the summit of Mt. Hood signed by the founding members of the Mazamas, July 19, 1894. MLHC MA05.00.09.003. ■ Inset, top: Summit of Mt. Hood, Thursday, July 19, 1894. Photo by B.C. Towne, MLHC VM1993.008. ■ Inset, bottom: Summit of Mt. Hood, Thursday, July 19, 1894. Photo by B.C. Towne, MLHC VM1993.008. PAGE 11 ■ Top: The Cliff Climbers, 1894, by the

Mazamas. Promotional brochure produced by the soon-to-be-Mazamas to announce the inaugural climb of Mt. Hood. MLHC MA01.02.00. ■ Center, left: Carved Mazama logo, 1971, handmade. Carved by Steven 40 MAZAMAS

Buhin and gifted to the Mazamas. MLHC 2023.001.001. ■ Center, right: R.B. Tele. Graflex camera, 1919, make: R. B. Tele. Graflex. This typical large format camera was used by George Hartness during two Mazama Annual Outings and several climbs. MLHC 2007.006.001. ■ Bottom: Alpenstock, MLHC 2021.003 PAGE 12 ■ Top: Fay Fuller, 1890, around the time

she climbed Mt. Rainier. ■ Center: Frank B. Riley, 1923. Taken during the Mazama Annual Outing to Pardise Park. ■ Bottom: Ice axe, MLHC collection. PAGE 13 ■ Top: William G. Steel, c. 1930. ■ Bottom, left to right: Steel Points,

Mount Hood, April 1907; Steel Points, The Olympics, July 1907; The Mountains of Oregon, by W.G. Steel, MLHC 917.95 St3.

PAGE 14 ■ Clockwise from top: Crater Lake,

photo by Jennifer Johnson; Crater Lake map, 1914; members of the 1886 Crater Lake survey party in the Cleetwood (boat); Crater Lake, c. 1886; William Steel on the rim of Crater Lake, 1925.

PAGE 15 ■ Mazama climbing party on Mt.

Rainier, June 2, 2023. Photo by Sohaib Haider.

PAGE 16 ■ Top, left: Natural fiber rope, c. 1950s,

make: unknown. Goldline style static climbing rope. MLHC 2010.061.001. ■ Top: right: Synthetic fiber rope, 1969, make: Edelrid. Dynamic style climbing rope. MLHC 2010.061.002. ■ Center: Shirt, Mazama blue, c. 1950s, make: “Styled by Margaret.” Wool shirt made from Mazama blue cloth. MLHC 1980.054.003. ■ Bottom: Mazama summit register box, 1936, make: Mazamas. This register box sat on the summit of Mt. Shuksan from 1936 to 1950. MLHC 2010.061.002.

PAGE 17 ■ Top: Mazamas on Old Baldy, a.k.a

“the shorts parade,” 1930. MLHC VM 2000.031. ■ Bottom left: Mazama Local Walks schedules, 1913–1914, 1922, MA03.28.0550 ■ Bottom right: Women’s boots, Alta Loose, MLHC 1985.084.005. PAGE 18 ■ Top: Climber on Sky Ridge, Smith

Rock. Photo by Vaqas Malik.

■ Inset: Joe Leuthold climbing Barrett

Spur, 1938.

PAGE 19 ■ Top: Female skiers on Mt. Hood, 1938.

Monner Photographs Collection VM1994.004.017. ■ Bottom left: Mazama Cup Race trophy, 1936–1982, donated by Edward Hughes. MLHC 1936.003.001 ■ Bottom right: Skis, downhill, c. 1930. Ski poles, bamboo, c. 1930. MLHC 1985.079.001, .005. PAGE 20 ■ Top: Mazama and dog, Mazama

Round the Mountain, 1938, MLHC VM2001.007.006. ■ Bottom right: Hat, semi-sport style, c. 1930s, make: Tyro-Lid. Semi-sport styles hats were popular in the 1930s; this one is decorated with pins from organizations the owner belonged to. MLHC 2007.006.001. ■ Tin cup, c. 1930s, make: unknown. Designed for campers and hikers, the Sierra Cup is a lightweight and practical solution for cooking and drinking in the outdoors. MLHC 2007.088.003. ■ Coffee pot, c. 1920s, make: unknown. Typical early camping-style coffee pot. MLHC 1970.008.003. PAGE 21 ■ Top: Mt. Hood’s White River Glacier,

August 9, 1936. Mazama Glacier Research Collection, MA09.03.25.0505. ■ Inset: Mazama Research Committee member on Eliot Glacier, Oct. 1936. Paul Thiess Photographs Collection VM2000.023. PAGE 22

■ Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier, undated.

Thaddis Gable Photographs Collection VM2003.021.002.

PAGE 23 ■ Binoculars, c. 1960s, make: unknown.

Small, pocket binoculars commonly used in navigation, research, and outdoor activities. MLHC 2005.025.002. ■ Compass, c. 1960s, make: Kiffe. Military-style folding compass commonly used for navigation. MLHC 2010.096.005. ■ Aerial photographic survey report, 1938, make: Mazamas. Cover and two photographs from the final report of the Mazama Research Committee’s overflights of the glaciers of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and the Three Sisters. MLHC 2012.034.001. ■ Altimeter, c. 1960s, make: unknown. Pocket altimeter, used to measure altitude in navigation and research. MLHC 2003.005.001. ■ Pennant, Mazamas, 1964, make: Mazamas. Mazama pennant used by Gil and Vivian Stander during their fieldwork in Alaska. MLHC 1997.315.001. ■ Eliot Glacier field notes and logbooks, 1974–1984, make: Mazamas. Field notes and logbooks used by Mazama researchers to track changes on Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier. MLHC MA03.25.05. ■ Photograph, “Arctic housekeeping, Mazama style,” 1965. MLHC VM2018.005. PAGE 24 ■ Top: Mazama members pulling fence

posts, Hart Mountain, July 2000. Photo by Dennis Cleary. ■ Bottom: Mazama Trail work party, 2017. Photo by Doug Joshua. PAGE 25 ■ Top: Harri Jennison and Daisy

Henderson in the Mazama Forest, c. 1945. ■ Bottom: Forest Park, 2023. Photo by Teresa Dalsager. ■ Ray Sheldon and Stan Egbert, c. 1995. ■ Mazamas working on the Mazama Trail, c. 1994. PAGE 26 ■ USFS Mazama Trail sign, 1994, make:

USFS. This sign was located at the junction of the Mazama Trail and the

Timberline Trail on Mt. Hood. MLHC 2008.117.0010. ■ Drawing, Hardesty Trail step riser, 2002, make: Dick Miller. Drawing of an experimental step riser to be used on the Hardesty Trail in Forest Park during the restoration project. MLHC MS2008.001. ■ Trips with the Mazamas, 1945, make: handmade, Marianna Kearney. Kearney’s original scrapbook documenting the anniversary trip to the Mazama Forest and Hardesty Trail, April 1945. MLHC VM1999.028.001. ■ Patch, Mazama Trail, c. 1994, make: Mazamas. Embroidered patch given to Mazama Trail volunteers who helped with construction and trail work. MLHC 1995.224.007. ■ Kerchief, Mazama Trail Tenders, 1995, make: Mazamas. Trail Tenders branded Mazama kerchief given out to trail tending volunteers. MLHC 2007.006.001. ■ Pardon me—you’ve dropped something!, c. 1950s, make: Mazamas. Mazama publication advocating for responsible outdoor ethics to minimize human impact on the environment. MLHC 1986.105.001. ■ Mazama handbook, c. 1980. MLHC MA06.

■ Below, left: Mazama Lodge, Dolan

PAGE 27 ■ Top: Adobe AI-generated image

PAGE 32 ■ Top: photograph of the interior of

of a mountain lodge and majestic mountains, generated October 12, 2023.

PAGE 28 ■ Top, below center: Mazama Lodge

at Twin Bridges, Oct. 6, 1936. Donald Onthank Photographs Collection VM1999.011. ■ Below, left and right: architectural drawings of the interior of the Twin Bridges Lodge. PAGE 29 ■ Top: Mazama Lodge, 1941. Donald

Onthank Photographs Collection VM1999.011. ■ Below, left: architectural drawings of the interior of the Log Lodge. ■ Below, right: Mazama Log Lodge on fire, December 4, 1958. PAGE 30 ■ Top: Mazama Lodge, 2022, photo by

unknown.

Collection VM1999.033.

■ Below, center: Mazama Lodge sign,

photo by unknown.

■ Below, right: Isometric architectural

drawings of the interior of the lodge.

PAGE 31 ■ Photograph, 2007, make: Mazamas.

Group photo in front of the new Mazama headquarters featuring everyone who walked from the old NW 19th Ave location. MLHC MA08.07. ■ Programs, Mazama Banquet, 1952– 1982, make: Mazamas. Selection of banquet programs detailing the evening’s events, award winners, and featured guest speaker. MLHC MA03.02.0501. ■ Schedules, Local Walks, 1913–1922, make: Mazamas. Selection of Local Walk schedules detailing the locations, dates, leaders, and other info for upcoming hikes and climbs. MLHC MA03.28.0550. ■ Cookbook, We Cook High, 1957, make: Mazamas. Created as a fundraiser, it contains recipes submitted by members. MLHC 1985.081.007. ■ Songbooks, Mazamas Sing, c. 1950s– 1974, make: Mazamas. Contains lyrics to old standards and popular songs of the day, reworked to include the Mazamas. MLHC MA08.07.

the Mazama Log Lodge showing mountain goat sculpture above fireplace. MLHC VM1993.002. ■ Bottom, left: South Side Mt. Hood Climb, 1945, make: Marianna Kearney. Handmade, 18-page booklet with watercolor paintings and an essay describing her first climb of Mt. Hood, June 10, 1945. MLHC VM1999.028.001. ■ Mazama Lodge: Our mountain home, c. 1947, MLHC VM1999.028.003. ■ Marianna Kearney on the summit of Mt. Hood, 1945. PAGE 33 ■ Top: First Mazama all-women’s

climb, Mt. Hood, July 24, 1932. MLHC VM2004.007. ■ Bottom left: unknown Mazama woman, c. 1920. MLHC VM2002.003. ■ Bottom center: Dorothy Harrington on the summit of Mt. Hood, June 18, 1966. MLHC VM2001.009. continued on page 47 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 41

THE MAZAMAS RESPOND TO CLIMATE CHANGE: THE MMC IS CARBON NEUTRAL

by Jeff Hawkins

ixteen years ago, the Conservation Committee hosted the Melting Mountains Conference to a packed house in the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) auditorium. We covered four climate changerelated topics: the state and future of glaciers; governmental policies and actions by the city, county, and state; organizational change; and individual action. I took the last two to heart and decided to make the Mazamas carbon neutral. It has been a long path with numerous obstacles: naysayers, financing, technical challenges, competing priorities, and my own foot-dragging. But now, after all that, I am thrilled to announce that we are finally there. The MMC is now carbon neutral! The lodge is not and will not be for a while unless an angel steps in with a donation of an estimated $250,000.

42 MAZAMAS

We did this by eliminating our natural gas usage and going 100 percent electrical, installing high-efficiency heat pumps, reducing our electrical consumption, creating our own electricity via a large solar array, and purchasing 100 percent green power from Portland General Electric (PGE) for the balance of energy not created by our solar system. The final step of replacing the boiler with heat pumps is particularly exciting. The new system will add heating and cooling to areas of the building not previously conditioned: the library, the library workroom, the basement lobby, and the MR1 classroom1. The boiler, which was far too large of a heat source for the auditorium, will no longer be driving us to wastefully open the windows an hour after turning it on. The auditorium will also have air conditioning. Mathew, in the library workroom, will no longer swelter in the summer and huddle around two space heaters in the winter. And the basement lobby and library will be comfy, too. Along with these spaces, the archives have a new system too, far

additional donations from Albert Iggi, Terry Brenneman, Peter Boag, Debra Wilkins, Noelle Price, and Rahul Ravel. Jeff Welter and Rick Amodeo contributed in a big way by helping with the engineering of a different heat pump system for the auditorium that we ultimately did not pursue. Efforts like this are not wasted; they are essential in the process of considering alternatives that lead to a final best solution. And Rick Craycraft listened patiently to every one of my ideas and complaints, and to the range of emotions I experienced along the way. I am grateful to you all. Thank you. It is my hope that the work we do together as Mazamas, to be consistent with our mission, will inspire others to action. The glaciers are melting. We have more work to do. Let’s keep at it. Please find a way to contribute in whatever way you can. If not on reversing climate change, then to the Mazamas in other ways. What we do together touches people’s lives in amazing ways.

more efficient than the original system that broke nearly two years ago! Our total energy bill might stay the same or potentially go down. We will use more electricity and less natural gas (zero, actually). For the last two years, and likely this year too, the solar array has produced more than 100 percent of the electrical energy consumed. The excess production has been donated to PGE’s Energy Assistance Program, an average of $1,750 per year2. The MMC also used approximately $1,250 per year in natural gas. This means there is $3,000 per year available to cover increased electricity usage for the new heat pumps. The actual usage depends on the members. There are of course many people to thank—people whose efforts and donations made this possible. They are too many to include for all the projects since the start of this journey. For this final step, major funding came from Linda Lewis on behalf of her late husband and Mazama member Phil Dean, who was a champion of Mazama history and the archives, and from George Cummings, Rick Pope, Dick Miller, and Jim Van Lente, with

Endnotes: 1 MR1 was heated by two electric wall heaters. Replacing these units with a heat pump will save significantly on peak electrical demand and overall consumption. 2 Donating excess annual solar-generated electric energy to the Energy Assistance Program is part of the Net Metering contract with PGE.

The Mazamas extends heartfelt thanks to Jeff Hawkins for his dedicated efforts in steering us toward carbon neutrality. Without his tireless research, meticulous planning, and hands-on work, we would not have achieved this milestone. Jeff ’s substantial contributions—of which his consistent presence at the Mazama Mountaineering Center spanning days, evenings, and weekends only scratches the surface— reflects his unwavering commitment, for which we are extremely grateful.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 43

SAYING GOODBYE ROBERT "BOB" ALLAN WILSON JANUARY 16, 1940–SEPTEMBER 1, 2023

After a short hospitalization due to a massive stroke, Robert Allan “Bob” Wilson passed away on September 1, 2023, at the age of 83. Bob started with the Mazamas in 1962 and continued his membership throughout his life because he credited the organization with initiating his lifelong love of mountaineering and many other outdoor pursuits. In 2014, he established the Bob Wilson Expedition Grant program for the Mazamas and up to the time of his death had donated $70,000 in support of what he viewed as the ultimate mission of mountaineering: the exploration of unchartered mountain wilderness. His own involvement in nine climbing expeditions began with a 1974 Mazama Denali Expedition and included the 1979 American Annapurna I Expedition, the 1982 Mazama Tirich Mir Expedition, the 1985 Mazama Hidden Peak Expedition, and the 1987 RMI Annapurna IV Expedition. As the mission and scope of the Mazamas evolved, Bob thought that financing an expedition grant program would help keep serious mountaineering a high priority for the organization. Ultimately realizing his own limits in terms of high-altitude climbing, Bob transitioned away from climbing above 6,000 meters. He remained active with the Mazamas as a climb leader from 1965 to 1994 and as a member of the Expedition Committee. In 1985, he shared his experiences and photos as a speaker at the Mazama Annual Banquet. By then, Bob began using his summer breaks from teaching to climbing in Europe and Peru, ultimately guiding for the Iowa Mountaineers, a private organization for whom he was a professional guide. Bob’s background is completely homegrown. He attended Vernon Elementary School and graduated from Benson when it was Portland’s polytechnic high school. At Portland State University, he earned a bachelor’s degree in physics and, after a stint in the U.S. Navy, a master’s degree in the same field. He began a teaching career at Mt. Hood Community College in 1968 and retired from his physics teaching position in 1998. In retirement, Bob maintained his avid interest in science and technology as he focused more of his time on adventure travel. Bob discovered other activities that would take him into wilderness areas. In the winter, Bob enjoyed cross-country skiing and skied the rim at Crater Lake a number of times. As a cycler, he rode in Cycle Oregon events several times, in Seattle to Portland, and annually in Portland’s Bridge Peddle. Becoming an avid sailor, Bob restored a 1953 Dragon class sailboat and sailed extensively in the local area, Puget Sound, the San Juan and Gulf Islands, and circumnavigated Vancouver Island several times. He also discovered sea kayaking and undertook multi-day and multi-week ocean and beach camping trips to the west coast of Vancouver Island, Alaska’s panhandle, and Haida Gwaii ( formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) where he circumnavigated Moresby Island by himself carrying 40 days of dry food. Another passion became backpacking in the Grand Canyon. From the South Rim, Bob hiked trails from South Bass to the Little Colorado on multi-day trips. From the North Rim, leaving 44 MAZAMAS

from Sowats Point, he enjoyed exploratory trips of the Esplanade, camping at large outside the boundaries of the national park. Embracing these activities illustrates an important aspect of the values that Bob gained from mountaineering: to engage the natural world in challenging ways in hopes of developing new information and discovering new dimensions of oneself. While alive, in addition to the Bob Wilson Expedition Grant program, Bob funded two scholarship programs at Mt. Hood Community College, one in mathematics and one in science. Bob thought long and hard about his legacy and assigned a large portion of his estate to the programs he had established and to Friends of Columbia Gorge, the Sierra Club, The Nature Conservancy, and Medical Teams International. In considering the legacy of Bob Wilson in the Mazamas, there is no better way than to cite Eric Shipton—one of Bob’s mountaineering heroes who, with partner Bill Tillman, had been first to conquer one the world’s most difficult peaks, Nanda Devi. In his memoir, Shipton comments: “He is lucky who, in the full tide of life, has experienced a measure of the active environment he most desires. There are few treasures of more lasting worth than the experience of a way of life that is in itself wholly satisfying. Such, after all, are the only possessions of which no fate, no cosmic catastrophe can deprive us; nothing can alter the fact if for one moment in eternity we have really lived.” Robert Allan “Bob” Wilson did indeed live a life that he found “wholly satisfying” and enjoyed many, many moments of having “really lived.”

BRIAN HOLCOMB SEPTEMBER 30, 1948–SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

Brian grew up in the Parkrose neighborhood of Portland. In high school, his Episcopal priest introduced him to rock climbing, a monumental influence in his life. In college at Portland State and throughout the rest of his life rock climbing was Brian’s passion. He joined the Mazamas in 1967. His involvement started slowly since he was still busy climbing with his Portland State buddies. But, eventually, he fell under the influence of people like Terry Becker, and, by the mid-1970s he had come into his own as a rock climber in Mazama circles. The 1977 and 1978 Mazama Annuals chronicle the ongoing saga of Brian and Terry’s multi-year attempts on Chimney Rock, in the Alpine Lakes area. Brian became a fullfledged climb leader in 1977, but only led a few climbs over his four-year leadership career. His independent spirit led him to seek out more and more challenging routes. In the late 1970s he was a fixture at Smith Rock, and eventually put up four first ascents there. Then it was on to Yosemite where, like so many people, he found an inexhaustible climber’s heaven. However, according to his peers, Brian’s real strength was in teaching. In 1977, he took over the rock portion of the Mazama Advanced Climbing program. Over the next five years of leadership, he turned this educational subset into the Advanced Rock course as we know it today. In 1984, Brian married fellow Mazama Virginia Seiser and moved to New Mexico. There he found another passion—caving. He explored the caves at Carlsbad Caverns and Lechugilla and did cave mapping for the National Park Service. Brian moved back to Oregon in 1999 to care for his aging mother, Jo, in the last year of her life. He married Susan Klein in 2002 and they traveled extensively around the American West for many years. Brian, with his degree in history, became involved again with the Mazamas, this time helping Vera Dafoe collect and identify vintage climbing equipment for the Mazama Library and Historical Collections. In 2017, he became a 50-year member.

JULIE FERREIRA SEPTEMBER 20, 1930–AUGUST 17, 2023

Julie was born in Detroit, Michigan. She attended Oberlin College, where she met Dick Ferreira and graduated with a B.A. in education. She was hired by Portland Public Schools and moved to Portland in 1951. Julie and Dick married in 1953 and settled in Lake Oswego, where they raised their three children and many cats. Julie earned her master’s degree in education from the University of Oregon and taught kindergarten and pre-school. She was interested in civic engagement and managed local Democratic and land-use campaigns. Julie joined the Mazamas in 1975 and dove right into climbing, earning her Guardian Peaks Award in 1976, and the Oregon Peaks Award the following year. From there Julie turned her attention to hiking with equal fervor. After participating in a Timberline Trail circumnavigation outing in 1977, she became a Trail Trips leader. From 1980 until 2001, Julie led 113 Mazama hikes, including one year in which she led 19. She was awarded the third Hardesty Cup

Brian and Susan settled in Newberg, the town in which Brian was born. In his early 70s, he was diagnosed with the brain tumor that eventually took his life. His family now envisions Brian with his rack and rock shoes, at some rock climbing destination in the afterlife, on belay with his old friends. Let’s hope so. If you wish to remember Brian in some way, donations to the Yosemite Foundation or Oregon Public Broadcasting are welcome.

ever in 1981. She also served on the Trail Trips Committee from 1980 to 1982, chairing the committee for the final two years. This was the period of the infamous Round the Mountain in a Day superhikes. And she was a climb leader long enough to lead exactly one climb, the Matterhorn in the Wallowas, in 1980. Julie did not restrict her enthusiasm for hiking to the Mazamas. She also served as a day hike leader for Portland Parks, Tryon Creek State Park, Friends of the Columbia Gorge, and Lake Oswego Hikers. In 1990, she received the Outstanding Volunteer Award from Friends of the Columbia Gorge for her longstanding work on the Gorge hiking weekend held every June. A woman of many talents, Julie was very artistic, designing campaign posters, brochures, logos, pins, and patches for many groups, including Cooperative Preschools of Oregon, the Mazamas, and the League of Women Voters. And, just for good measure, in 1984 she was the editor of the Mazama Bulletin for a brief stint. We were fortunate to have a woman with as much enthusiasm and dedication as Julie in her 37 years as a Mazama member.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 45

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

Jun 3, 2023–Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. John Sterbis, Leader; Christin Ritscher, Assistant Leader. Casey Ferguson, Bri Marie Hostetler, Nathan Loomis, Margaret Munroe, Brandon Gregory Ziemba.

Jun 5, 2023–Mt. Hood (Wy'east), South Side. Lynne Pedersen, Leader; Sergey

Kiselev, Assistant Leader. Christopher Boswell, Kristine de Leon, Mario DeSimone, Nicolas Martinez, David Posada, James Taylor, Thomas Williams.

Jul 29, 2023–Ingalls Peak, South Face.

Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Rachel Faulkner, Assistant Leader. Akrita Agarwal, Chris Jay Burreson, Sangram More, Jacqui Ogle, Saraja Samant. Aug 1, 2023–Mt. Stuart, West Ridge.

Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Suresh Singh, Assistant Leader. Geoff Melly, Surej Ravikumar.

Aug 2, 2023–Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer's Route. Lisa Ripps, Leader.

Alastair Cox, Joanne Morris.

Aug 12, 2023–Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Eric Einspruch, Leader; Andrew

Bodien, Assistant Leader. Anna Feigum, Douglas Filiak, Kyle Mangione, Nicolas Martinez, Astrid Zervas.

Aug 12, 2023–Mt. Stuart, West Ridge.

Tim Scott, Leader; Melanie Bower, Assistant Leader. Rachel Faulkner, Melanie Potter. Aug 12, 2023–The Castle, Standard Route. Carol Bryan, Leader. Kristine de

Leon, Casey Ferguson, Julie Beth Gursha, Brian Hodakievic, Stephen Kingsbury, Mi Lee, Raelyn Thompson. Aug 13, 2023–North Sister, South Ridge-Hayden Glacier. Guy Wettstein,

Walker-Jones, Assistant Leader; Ann Marie Caplan, Assistant Leader. Akrita Agarwal, Gregory Fernandez, Grayson Hughbanks, Jeremy Luedtke, Bikash Padhi, Tyler Sievers, Dinesh Vijayakumar, Ben Volinski. Aug 20, 2023–Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Andy Nuttbrock, Leader;

Brendan Scanlan, Assistant Leader; Delia Walker-Jones, Assistant Leader; Jen Travers, Assistant Leader. Patricia Akers, Jeevitha Babu, Jeremiah Biddle, Casey Ferguson, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Margaret Munroe, Sharon Selvaggio, Ophelia Yan.

Brendan Scanlan, Assistant Leader; Delia 46 MAZAMAS

Sep 8, 2023–Mt. Washington, North Ridge. John Meckel, Leader; Tyler (Toby)

Creelan, Assistant Leader. Matthew Gantz, Matt Mudrow, Kira Smith, Nathan Taylor, Sydney Yelton. Sep 8, 2023–South Sister, Devil's Lake.

Guy Wettstein, Leader; Janelle Klaser, Assistant Leader. Luke Davis, Matt DuVerne Hutchinson, Bernie Murphy. Sep 8, 2023–Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge. Darren Ferris,

Leader; Eloise Bacher, Assistant Leader. Conrad Cartmell, Michael Shymanski, Aug 22, 2023–Sahale Mountain, Sahale Evan Conway Smith, Astrid Zervas. Arm-Cascade Pass. Josh Lockerby, Sep 9, 2023–Acker Rock, Peregrine Leader. Andrew Behr, Milton Diaz, Alex Traverse. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Kunsevich, Nicolas Martinez, William Joshua Lupkin, Assistant Leader. Michele O'Brien, Karthik Periagaram, Mikel Scherer Barnett, Edward Decker, Calum Rhodes, Scott Stevenson. Hanawalt, Truth Johnston, Jerome Leedy, Aug 27, 2023–Diamond Peak, South Rachel Smith, Ashley Smithers, Amanda Ridge. Bob Breivogel, Leader; Steven Carlson Thomas. Wagoner, Assistant Leader. Timothy Sep 9, 2023–North Sister, South RidgeGrossman, William Kazanis, Erin McConville, Donica Polce, Elizabeth Reed, Hayden Glacier. Darren Ferris, Leader; Eloise Bacher, Assistant Leader. Conrad Saraja Samant, Sharon Selvaggio. Cartmell, Michael Shymanski, Evan Aug 28, 2023–Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Conway Smith, Astrid Zervas. Cosmic Wall. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Sep 9, 2023–Three Fingered Jack, Guy Wettstein, Assistant Leader. Ian South Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader; Nate McMurray, Sangram More, Mark Stave. Zeiler, Assistant Leader. Patricia Akers, Aug 28, 2023–Three Fingered Jack, David Gross, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Evan South Ridge. Justin (JC) Colquhoun, McDowell, Tad Nicol, Christin Ritscher. Leader; Kirk Newgard, Assistant Leader. Sydney Bowman, Anthony Carr, Malcolm Sep 10, 2023–Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Matthew Sundling, Leader; Reilly, James Taylor. Joshua Lupkin, Assistant Leader. Catherine Sep 1, 2023–Beacon Rock, Southeast Ciarlo, Denise Jenn, Sangram More, Corner. Christine Troy, Leader; Toby Stacey Reding, Saraja Samant, Kathryn Contreras, Assistant Leader. Verna Burden, Villarreal, Midori Watanabe. Aaron Kaufman, Mike Quigley. Sep 1, 2023–Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir. Gary Bishop, Leader; Nimesh

Leader; Mark Stave, Assistant Leader. Peter "Nam" Patel, Assistant Leader. Yukti Boag, Ryan Bradley, Brad Dewey, Dylan Aggarwal, Antonio Bezerra, Peter Boag, Pickford, Tuller Schricker, Frank Squeglia. Teresa Dalsager, Jeremy Luedtke, Laetitia Aug 13, 2023–Pinnacle Peak, East Pascal, Kristofel Simbajon, Jen Travers. Ridge. Carol Bryan, Leader; Lynne Sep 2, 2023–Mt. Washington Pedersen, Assistant Leader. Akrita (Olympics), Standard. Trey Schutrumpf, Agarwal, Mi Lee, Tanvi Singh. Leader; Marissa Burke, Assistant Leader. Aug 18, 2023–Ingalls Peak, South Brian Campos, Michael Cheung, Kimberly Face. Gary Ballou, Leader; John Meckel, Michelle Glock, Sarah Johnson, Kima Assistant Leader. Sarah Diver, Petra Kheirolomoom, Bryan Joseph Oates. LeBaron-Botts, Nathan Taylor. Sep 3, 2023–Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Aug 19, 2023–Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge. Bob Cosmic Wall. Christine Troy, Leader; Breivogel, Leader; Reuel Kurzet, Assistant Toby Contreras, Assistant Leader. Alicia Leader. Kristina Prosser, Elizabeth Reed, Antoinette, Elizabeth Hill, Christin Ritscher, Gary Riggs, Kristofel Simbajon. Claire Vandevoorde. Aug 19, 2023–Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Andy Nuttbrock, Leader;

Tatsuro Ogisu.

Sep 8, 2023–Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard. Gary Bishop,

Leader; Kristi Riedel, Assistant Leader.

Sep 15, 2023–Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge-Standard Route. Gary Bishop,

Leader; Aardra Athalye, Assistant Leader. Truth Johnston, John Powers, William Withington. Sep 16, 2023–South Sister, Devil's Lake. Sergey Kiselev, Leader; Joe Preston,

Assistant Leader. Steven Cheswick, Jeffrey Dorenbush, Kimberly Michelle Glock, Kellie Peaslee, Malcolm Reilly, Kristofel Simbajon.

Sep 17, 2023–Mt. Whittier, Norway Pass Traverse. Bill Stein, Leader; Melanie

Means, Assistant Leader. Brad Dewey, Rory Driscoll, Daniel John Hemmen, Jerrid Kimball. Sep 18, 2023–Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Stacey Reding, Leader;

Larry Beck, Assistant Leader. Luke Davis, Sue Dimin, James Taylor.

Sep 22, 2023–Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Gary Ballou, Leader.

Laura Beth Guderyahn, Monica Morales, Laetitia Pascal, Nathan Taylor, Jen Travers. Sep 22, 2023–South Sister, Devil's Lake. Dawn Van Seggen, Leader; Duncan

Hart, Assistant Leader. Erik Anderson, Shannon Hope Grey, Bill Lowder, Andrea Ogston. Sep 23, 2023–Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Joe Preston, Leader.

Mark Goering, Heidi Griffith, Priyanka Kedalagudde, Lisa Lesko, Nicolas

Martinez, John Rowland, Ryan Zubieta.

Sep 30, 2023–Beacon Rock, Southeast Corner. Toby Contreras, Leader;

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: help@mazamas.org Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m.

Anupama Kurpad, Assistant Leader. Verna Burden, Ann Marie Caplan. Sep 30, 2023–Tamanos Mountain, Owyhigh Trail. Bob Breivogel, Leader;

Sue Dimin, Assistant Leader. Christabel Behr, Mark Beyer, Rick Busing, Winnie Dong, Jerrid Kimball, Alex Kunsevich, Amanda Lovelady, Evan McDowell, Kristina Prosser.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Credit, continued from page 41. ■ Bottom right: Cecilia Estraviz on the

summit of Unicorn Peak, Mt. Rainier National Park, June 2023. ■ Hat, Dorothy Harrington, 1966–1972, make: Dorothy Harrington. Hat worn by Harrington on the summits climbed by the Powder Puffs. MLHC 1995.224.007 PAGE 34 ■ Left: Mazama Basic School display,

Pacific Power & Light Building, ca. 1955. Erwin Rieger Photographs Collection VM1999.012. Basic School rock skills, ■ Center: Unknown Mazama at Horsethief Butte, 1961. MLHC VM2002.007. ■ Right: Tom Gibbons watching as Theresa Nanney catches a simulated leader fall, Boy Scout Training Center, Mt. Scott, April 5, 1959. Mazama Collection VM2000.022. PAGE 35 ■ Left: Mazama Intermediate Climbing

School snow practice, Jan 10, 1988. Photo by George Stonecliffe. ■ Right: Mazama Intermediate Climbing School rock skills practice, fall 2022. Photo by Teresa Dalsager. PAGE 36 ■ Book, Mountaineering: Freedom of

the Hills, 1960, make: Mountaineers. The benchmark on which most outdoor recreational education programs are based. MLHC 796.52 M86mo. ■ Harness, waist, 1968, make: Forest. Forest Mountaineering is credited with bringing the first climbing harness to market in the United States in 1968. MLHC 1998.270.092. ■ Belay device, 2005, make: Petzl. A vital tool in rock climbing, used to keep tension on the rope while climbing and control the speed of descent when repelling. MLHC 2012.034.001.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazamalodge@mazamas.org Hours: Closed

■ Boots, c. 1935, make: Danner. Danner

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

work boots modified with hobnails for climbing. MLHC 1970.004.003. ■ Brochure, Climbing with the Mazamas, c. 1980s, make: Mazamas. Brochure promoting the Mazamas, its activities, and education programs. MLHC MA03.04.04. ■ Hobnail boots blueprint, Mazama Climbing Committee, c. 1950. MLHC MA03.04.

Members: Peter Boag, Elise Englert, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, Jen Travers, and Claire Tenscher (publications@ mazamas.org)

PAGE 37 ■ Top: 1907 Mazama Annual. ■ Bottom left: booklet, A Climber’s

Library & Historical Collections Manager

Guide to Mt. Hood, 1956–1958, make: Mazamas. One in a series of climbing guides produced by the Mazamas in the 1950s. MLHC MA06.01.00. ■ Bottom center: book, We Climb High, Vol. 2, 2017, make: Mazamas. A chronological history of the Mazamas from 1965 to 2015. MLHC MA06.01.00. ■ Bottom right: Mazama Bulletin, No. 1, May 1923. PAGE 38 ■ Top: Bound Mazama Annuals in the

Mazama Library, 2018. Photo by Mathew Brock. ■ Top, right: Mazama "Clubroom," Northwest Bank Building, c. 1914. MLHC VM1993.003 ■ Center, right: Mazama "Clubroom," Pacific Building, c.1940. MLHC VM1993.003. ■ Bottom, right: Mazama Library, 2023, Photo by Mathew Brock.

MAZAMA STAFF GINA BINOLE Office & Communications Coordinator

ginabinole@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK mathew@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager

facilities@mazamas.org REBEKAH PHILLIPS Executive Director

rebekahphillips@mazamas.org BRENDAN SCANLAN Operations & IT Manager

brendanscanlan@mazamas.org For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

PAGE 39 ■ Columbia River Gorge from Angel’s

Rest, 2016. Photo by Sándor Lao.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 47

Mazamas® 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland, OR 97215 www.mazamas.org

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

2024 MEMBERSHIP CAMPAIGN ON NOW! Join or renew today at www.mazamas.org/join

Courtney Ianello and Patricia Akers on Unicorn and Pinnacle, June 27, 2023.

48 MAZAMAS