2024 Jan/Feb Mazama Bulletin

INSIDE:

Ouray Ice Park The Dark Side to Safety Culture The Mountain Keeps the Story Our Mountain Home: 100 Years of Mazama Lodges JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 1

We Are the Unclaimed Line Strong, protective, and built for realising winter’s endless possibilities. Whether you’re making a bid for the summit or leading the charge in fresh powder, our ski clothing offers the warmth, breathability, and freedom of movement you need to claim the next untouched line.

W WW. R A B . E Q U I P M E N T

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MAZAMA BULLETIN

CONTENTS

FEATURES

Volume 106 Number 1 January/February 2024

IN THIS ISSUE

2022 Mazama Volunteer Event, p. 9 2022 Mazama Service Awards, p. 10 Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program, p. 12 No One Achieves What They Don't Dare (Nadie logra lo que no se atreve), p. 14–15 Mt. Abbott, p. 18 Arctic Odyssey: Where Mountains Have No Name, p. 19 Summit Views Reawaken Artistic Spirit, p. 29 100 Peaks of Mt. Rainier, p. 30

COLUMNS Executive Director’s Message, p. 4 President’s Message, p. 5 Upcoming Courses, Activities, and Events, p. 6 Mazama Classics, p. 8 Book Review, p. 24 Looking Back, p. 26 Mazama Membership, p. 27 Successful Climbers, p. 28 Mazama Lodge, p. 28 Saying Goodbye, p. 33 Board of Directors Minutes, p. 35

Some people get a profound sense of being left alone when their plane flies away; it’s called “drop shock,” when you become keenly aware of just how small you are in the grand scheme of things.” p. 19 The reason for creating the book is to serve as a bridge for those who want to learn about mountaineering and climbing, but, like me, have Spanish as their primary language.” p. 14 I first learned of the Mt. Rainier 100 in early 2012. I had already done 11 of them, and decided to start exploring more of the park beyond the typical Mazama Unicorn, Castle, and Pinnacle climbs in the Tatoosh.” p. 30

Cover: Shawn Thomas crossing Arrigetch Creek, Brooks Range, Alaska. Photo by Steven Wagoner.

Above: Mazama members enjoying the outdoors. Location and photographer unknown.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 3

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director

H

appy New Year! 2024 will mark our 130th anniversary, a fitting occasion to focus our collective efforts on building strength and added stability to our ever-evolving organization. With expenses last year largely on-track, I’m excited to roll up my sleeves and address the other part of the equation: revenue.

As a nonprofit, we operate on funds received through two main channels: earned revenue (i.e., membership and programs) and contributed revenue (i.e., donations). The good news is that, in my estimation, our earned revenue streams are strong. There’s certainly room to build them out further, but programs are consistently full and membership revenue is up year-over-year. With many companies still struggling to reach their pre-pandemic numbers, this is a big deal, and it’s in large part a function of your passion and leadership that we’re in good shape here.

Where we have the most room to grow is on the contributed revenue side – that is, individual donations, major and estate gifts, corporate and matching gifts, and government and private foundation grants.

Here are a few of the key objectives for driving revenue that I’m eager to pursue in the coming year.

Strengthen our reserves.

In more good news, our reserves as they currently stand are enough to constitute an appropriately sized rainy-day fund, totaling about six months’ of operating costs. Ideally, though, reserves also generate meaningful income in the form of interest that can support general operating expenses, whether to fill revenue gaps that might transpire as a result of economic instability, to invest upfront in strategic initiatives, or to cover the cost of deferred and planned maintenance. Growing an endowment takes careful planning as well as significant philanthropic leadership, and I look forward to working with a full-time Development Director, as well as highly invested Mazama members, to lay out a path forward.

Build the Annual Fund.

Every 501 (c)3 fundraises. Every single one. It’s an inherent and critical part of the nonprofit business model. Contributions from individual donors provide unrestricted dollars that allow us to provide scholarships, pilot new programs,

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maintain and acquire safety gear, build the library collection, and ensure we undergo an independent review of our financial statements each year. Currently donations make up about 30 percent of our revenues; I’d like to see this number approach 40 percent or even 50 percent in the years to come, creating a healthier contributedto-earned revenue balance. This will protect the Mazamas from being overly dependent on program revenue that could suddenly cease to come in in the case of an unforeseen disaster, as we saw with the 2020 pandemic.

No matter the size of your gift, when you donate to the Mazama Annual Fund you’re putting your money where your mouth is – endorsing the Mazama mission, recognizing the value of our programs and services, and inspiring others to follow suit.

Generosity is contagious!

Increase activity and programming capacity.

Comprising about 50 percent of our revenues, education programming is our bread and butter. There’s a seemingly bottomless appetite for programs like BCEP, which sells to capacity year after year. Considering this high demand, one obvious way to yield more revenue could be to simply charge more for courses; but our values drive us to keep programming affordable and accessible to as many people as possible. The challenge, then, is that capacity for programs is generally either fixed due to space and permitting requirements, or relative to how many program leaders can be secured. I urge our committees and leaders to think creatively about expanding and adding programs, and increasing opportunities for member participation.

Members are the backbone of our organization, but those whose early expectations aren’t met due to being turned away from classes or climbs are at especially high risk of not renewing.

Without members, we don’t have climb

and hike leaders, committee chairs, board members, or donors down the road. It’s vital for our sustainability that we find ways to accommodate programmatic demand on this side of the pipeline.

Reopen the Mazama Lodge.

The Lodge is an asset treasured by many within the membership. Part destination, part campus, part event space, our “home away from home” has provided no shortage of fond memories for generations of Mazamas. Its location in Government Camp—a gateway to adventure, where demand for access is rapidly growing—makes it prime real estate in a tourist community that currently offers few affordable options.

To be clear, when it comes to the Lodge, our members’ needs come first. But our annual use only comprises about 25 percent of total capacity, leaving thousands of beds open each year. It’s an untapped resource in a community that needs more lodging to meet demand. Leveraging this opportunity and opening the Lodge beyond the membership would not only generate the revenue we need to properly maintain and support the facility, but it would allow us to reach new, like-minded outdoor enthusiasts and share the Mazama story with a much broader audience.

After six months of getting to know you better, there’s no doubt in my mind that the Mazamas changes lives. Through outdoor education, leadership cultivation, and stewardship, we do work that has a direct social, environmental, and economic impact on our community. As we move through this year, I encourage you to reflect on how the Mazamas has changed your life, and what stories you may be able to offer as proof points. These are the reasons our mission is critical and worth fighting for.

As always, thank you for your partnership. It’s an honor to work on your behalf, bringing the membership together to build on this legacy into and beyond our 130th year.

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

by Greg Scott, Mazama President

I

am happy to say, the Mazamas are positioned well to take on several initiatives for the organization’s 130th year. But before I get into that, I want to reflect on our accomplishments for 2023. This time last year was filled with uncertainty. I was using this space to talk about the importance of voting for the bylaws change that would open our organization to anyone for the first time in our history. Since the new bylaws passed, we’ve seen hundreds of new members join, and hundreds of past members reinstate their membership. We hired Rebekah Philips, our new executive director, who brings over 20 years of nonprofit experience to our staff. Most recently, Multnomah County recognized our nonprofit status and for the first time issued a tax exemption for the Mazama Mountaineering Center, saving us a significant amount of money. To cap 2023, we celebrated our history with the exhibit The Mazamas: For the Love of Mountains at the Oregon Historical Society. This exhibit not only gave us public exposure, but allowed old and new members alike to see the accomplishments of the Mazamas who came before us, and a vision for the future.

What’s next? Last year we launched the “Route Ahead” campaign which had three phases: ■ “Getting to the Trailhead” (i.e. passing the bylaws); ■ “Arriving at Basecamp” (i.e. hiring an executive director); ■ “The Summit” (i.e. strategic vision).

Right now we are somewhere between Basecamp and the Summit. For 2024 we are launching the “Summit View” campaign to focus on this last leg of the journey. What do we do at the summit or at the end of a hike? We take in the view. If you’ve climbed or hiked with me, I have three rules for the trip: first, to return safely, second to have fun, and third to make the summit. If the first and second rules are compromised, the third rule doesn’t matter. In this case, we want to accomplish all three.

Return safely. We pulled off a mostly balanced budget in 2023 despite some revenue shortfalls. We want to continue exhibiting fiscal conservatism, opening new opportunities for revenue, and building back our investments. We plan to hire a development director to help anchor our assets and, alongside Rebekah, help continue to grow our membership. We plan to launch the longawaited lodge capital campaign to make sure this investment is shored up. I and several Mazama board members have already collectively pledged $15,000 to start that campaign in the spring.

We also want to continue to develop a risk management culture that emphasizes education and safety.

Have fun. We are planning a gala event in the fall to celebrate our 130th anniversary. We are also planning more opportunities for people to gather. We are continuing to grow our leadership pipeline to offer more climb and hike opportunities. This investment in our volunteers is essential to our sustainability. We look forward to re-opening the lodge and seeing more events there for our members. I personally plan to get out and lead more climbs and hikes and share the experiences that are at the core of this community.

Summit. Reaching the summit means taking in the view of the whole organization and creating a multi-year strategic plan with measurable goals that sustain the Mazamas. This strategic plan

will be the touchstone that grounds future boards and leaders so we all know what route to take, how to make it back safely, and how to have fun doing it.

The future is bright for the Mazamas. Before our volunteer appreciation event in November, I took a walk down to the Oregon Historical Society to see the Mazama exhibit. Not surprisingly, I ran into other Mazamas from all walks of the organization. I am honored to see this exhibit come to life. Stories keep our memories alive. One story I noticed is all the different activities that have come and gone throughout the history of the Mazamas. Much like climbing, no two climbs are ever the same. And so it seems true for the Mazamas. No two eras remain the same. But the foundation of our organization endures. It’s the community and volunteers that make it happen. Thank you to everyone who has gotten us this far on the journey, and thank you in advance to the future volunteers.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 5

MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS ELECTION & ANNUAL MEETING

ELECTION TIMELINE ■ December 22, 2023 – Candidate statements emailed and available on the website (www.mazamas.org/election) ■ January 2, 2024 – Election open (Happy New Year!)

■ January 17 – Mail-in ballot deadline ■ January 18, 3 p.m. – Drop-off ballot deadline ■ January 18, during Annual Meeting – Electees announced

MAIL-IN/DROP-OFF VOTING

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES, AND EVENTS BCEP 2024 Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program ■ Info Night January 11, 6–8 p.m.

■ Registration opens: January 27, 2024 ■ Cost: $575 (members), $700 (nonmember) Have you wanted to climb our nearby mountains but don’t know how to get started? Wy’east/Hood, Loowit/Mount St. Helens, Pahto/Adams? Maybe others? The Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is for you! BCEP teaches the skills needed to climb snow-covered peaks and outdoor rock—and introduces you to other people who like to climb.

The eight-week program includes: ■ Web-based classroom sessions ■ Weekly team breakout sessions (mostly in-person) ■ Educational field sessions ■ Training hikes ( for conditioning and skills practice) More info at www.mazamas.org/bcep.

We will offer mail-in/drop-off ballots this year. Anyone who does not have an email on file will receive a ballot via post on or before January 2. We urge members to consider online voting, as it is more cost-effective for the organization and significantly reduces our impact on the environment.

ABRIDGED VOTERS GUIDE The following individuals are running for the Mazama Board of Directors: ■ Debbie Dwelle ■ Chris Jaworski ■ Matthew Sundling

ANNUAL MEETING INFORMATION The 2023–2024 Mazama Annual Meeting will be held on January 18, 2024, in the Mazama Mountaineering Center’s Holman Auditorium. Watch the weekly eNews for further details closer to the event.

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YOUR AD HERE! Contact us to learn more about advertising in the Mazama Bulletin! mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org

MAZAMA VALUES RESPECT We believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.

SAFETY We believe safety is our primary responsibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management, and incident reporting are critical supporting elements.

EDUCATION We believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

VOLUNTEERISM We believe volunteers are the driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are.

COMMUNITY We believe camaraderie, friendship, and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals.

COMPETENCE

Whether you are new to the Northwest, a seasoned backcountry traveler, a longtime Portland resident who’s ready to start exploring, or somewhere in between, we can connect you to the hiking, climbing, and skiing adventures you seek.

■ Climb a mountain ■ Go rock climbing ■ Hike or backpack ■ Backcountry ski or snowshoe ■ Discover canyoneering ■ Meet interesting people ■ Learn new outdoor skills ■ Check out our library

■ Stay at our mountain lodge ■ See a presentation ■ Discover new places ■ Trek in a foreign country ■ Join an outing or expedition ■ Fix a trail ■ ... and so much more!

We believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers, and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities, and judgment required of their roles.

CREDIBILITY We believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience.

STEWARDSHIP We believe in conserving the mountain environment.

We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.

Join Now!

www.mazamas.org/join JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 7

MAZAMA CLASSICS

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Contact the Classics Chair, Gordon Fulks, at classics@mazamas.org.

CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: help@mazamas.org Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–5 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazamalodge@mazamas.org Hours: Closed

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

The Classics Committee needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee.

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org and tell us how you can help. Keep an eye on the Mazama calendar for our next meeting.

Members: Peter Boag, Elise Englert, Darrin Gunkel, Ali Gray, Ryan Reed, Jen Travers, and Claire Tenscher (publications@ mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager

mathew@mazamas.org RICK CRAYCRAFT

CLASSICS COMMITTEE HOLIDAY LUNCHEON At the Classics Committee Annual Holiday Luncheon, held December 8, 2023, the committee welcomed the following 25-, 50-, 60-, and 70-year members.

25-YEAR MEMBERS Elizabeth An Bonnie Berneck Judith Bradshaw James Brewer Barry Buchanan Patty Campbell Louis Criscuolo Michael Doll

Patty Dornbusch Keith Dubanevich Tom Dunham Mark Fowler Gregory Kime Lois Langlois Debra Meisinger Brian Montalto

John Payne Nancy Petrusich Maxine Schwartz Tamara Lynn Scott Jennifer Sims Lee Wilson

50-YEAR MEMBERS David Brezinski Russell Hale Tim Leupp

Linda Mehlig Sandra Melinder John Orengo

Virginia Seiser

facilities@mazamas.org REBEKAH PHILLIPS Executive Director

rebekahphillips@mazamas.org BRENDAN SCANLAN Operations & IT Manager

brendanscanlan@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year.

Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

60-YEAR MEMBERS Richard Blackwell Carol Cogswell Patsy Edwards Latham Flanagan Peggy Fujita

Christine Heilman Steve Heim Charles Houston Suzanne Jelineo Charles Kirk

Marine Lynch Jean Norrby Doug Potts Joanne Shipley Mike Walsh

70-YEAR MEMBERS Jon Hanlein Flora Huber Kurt Kessler

Judith Platt Quinland Porter Lee Powell

Beatriz Richter George Skinner Patience Willner

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Facilities Manager

The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

2023 MAZAMA VOLUNTEER EVENT: OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY On Monday, November 27, 2023, over 200 Mazama members gathered in the pavilion at the Oregon Historical Society to celebrate the organization’s many volunteers. In addition to mingling with old friends and making new acquaintances, many members took the opportunity to view The Mazamas: For the Love of Mountains exhibit currently on display at the museum through March 2024. While snacking on hors d'oeuvres provided by Elephants Delicatessen and sipping beverages donated

by Mazama Brewing and John’s Marketplace, members mingled and viewed a slideshow of images from the year put together by the Adventurous Young Mazamas. All attending volunteers were gifted a limited edition Mazama beanie as a thank you. The evening wrapped up with the presentation of the Climbing and Trail Trips Committees and Mazama service awards.

This event was made possible by a generous bequest from Yun Long Ong, whose love for the Mazamas called him to lead climbs on all 16 peaks.

Above: Mazama Volunteer Event, Oregon Historical Society, November 27, 2023.

Photo by Mathew Brock.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 9

MAZAMA SERVICE AWARDS HONORARY MEMBER

ALFRED PARKER CUP

MARGARET REDMAN CUP

Keith Mischke

Jeff Hawkins

Teresa Dalsager

In recognition of 53 years of unwavering dedication and service, the Mazamas proudly bestow honorary membership upon Keith Mischke. Joining the Mazamas in 1970, Keith’s remarkable journey is marked by a string of prestigious awards, including Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades, 16 Peaks, 15-point Climb Leadership, and the esteemed Parker Cup. His commitment is further underscored by the Leuthold Award, a testament to his leadership in summitting the 16 peaks and his significant contributions to the Mazamas.

Keith’s service extends beyond the summit, with a rich history as a climb leader, active participation on the Climb Committee, and the successful management of the Intermediate Climbing School. He chaired the Climb Committee, contributed to the Whitewater Committee, and held the distinguished position of twotime Mazama President.

Beyond the peaks and committees, Keith played a pivotal role as the office guru for a decade at the old clubrooms on NW 19th. Fondly known as Mr. Mazama by fellow members, Keith’s influence has left an indelible mark on the Mazama community.

Jeff Hawkins has demonstrated an extraordinary level of commitment and dedication to the Mazamas as a climb leader, instructor for both Nordic and Backcountry, and particularly in steering the organization toward carbon neutrality.

His tireless research, meticulous planning, and hands-on efforts have played a pivotal role in achieving this significant milestone.

Jeff ’s contributions go far beyond the surface, as reflected in his consistent presence at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, spanning not only regular business hours but also days, evenings, and weekends. His self-sacrifice and dedication to the cause have become a source of inspiration for all who have had the privilege of working alongside him.

In the spirit of the Parker Cup’s intent to recognize individuals who distinguish themselves through hard work and ability for the benefit of the Mazamas, Jeff Hawkins stands out as exemplary. His efforts not only align with the core values of our organization but have also significantly contributed to its growth and success.

Teresa’s dedication to her craft and unwavering commitment to capturing the essence of Mazama endeavors through her photography makes her a standout recipient for this award.

In her role as one of our volunteer photographers, Teresa has consistently gone above and beyond, demonstrating a keen eye for detail and a profound understanding of the essence of our organization. From documenting challenging BCEP snow days to capturing the spirit of off-site events, Teresa has proven time and again that her work is not just a documentation of moments but a testament to the heart and soul of the Mazamas.

Margaret Griffin Redman’s vision in establishing this award was to honor those who contribute significantly to the artistic representation of our shared purpose.

We believe that Teresa Dalsager embodies the spirit and intent behind this distinguished award. Her artistry has become an integral part of our organization’s narrative, immortalizing our adventures and achievements for generations to come.

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WILLIAM HARDESTY CUP

LONG ONG MENTORSHIP AWARD

VERA AND CARMIE DAFOE AWARD

Bill Stein

Lisa Ripps

Marty Scott

The William P. Hardesty Leadership Cup, introduced in 1979, stands as the prestigious successor to the Hughes Cup, awarded by the Trail Trips Committee.

This honor recognizes the Mazama member who epitomizes volunteerism and service to the hiking community. This year’s recipient, Bill Stein, has achieved this accolade through the highest lifetime leadership points in Trail Trip events.

The criteria include leading at least six events in the last three years, and earning points for various types of leads, such as trail tending or rambling. Notably, points are also granted for contributing to the Trail Trips Committee, with additional recognition for chairing the committee or serving as a member or friend of the committee. This unique award, received only once, requires no formal submissions, reflecting a commitment to acknowledging and celebrating outstanding contributions to the Mazama hiking community.

The Trail Trips Committee, and the Mazamas as a whole, wish to thank Bill for his many years of leading hikes and leadership within the organization.

The Long Ong Mentorship Award, a Mazama community beacon, honors those embodying mentorship with positivity, humility, and humor. This year’s recipient, Lisa Ripps, epitomizes dedication and selflessness within the Mazamas.

From leading E Climbs to coordinating BCEP teams, Lisa’s passion for guiding mountaineers shines. Her multifaceted contributions include roles as an AR graduate, ICS instructor, FM101 instructor, and Spring 2023 Smith Rock Field Session coordinator, showcasing versatility and leadership. Notably, Lisa’s commitment to diversity is evident as a Canyoneering leader, actively identifying, mentoring, and developing climbing talent, particularly for women and underrepresented minorities.

Her impact resonates, making Lisa a deserving recipient of the Long Ong Mentorship Award.

The Climbing Committee proudly presents Marty Scott with the esteemed Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award. A devoted Mazama since 1987 and a climb leader since 1989, Marty embodies the spirit of our mountaineering community. Over the years, Marty has not only conquered personal milestones through the Mazamas but has also been an unwavering volunteer in various capacities. Achieving the 16 Major Northwest Peaks Award, leading 34 successful climbs and 32 assists, coleading a BCEP group, and contributing to committees such as Climbing, Education, and Advanced Rock showcase Marty’s multifaceted dedication. From chairing committees to serving on the board of directors as treasurer and vice president, Marty’s impact is immeasurable. Notably, Marty played a pivotal role in the Director Search Committee in 2019 and continues to contribute as a member in 2023. As a current member of the Finance Committee, Marty remains a stalwart presence, offering mentorship to countless climbers and embodying the values of the Mazama community.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 11

MAZAMA BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM: GAIN CONFIDENCE IN THE MOUNTAINS AND INSPIRE OTHERS!

by Lily Cox-Skall

L

iving in the Pacific Northwest we get to see our beloved mountains almost daily from the city. But have you ever aspired to stand on top of Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, or Mt. Rainier? As big as they look, this goal is attainable for anyone willing to gain the necessary technical skills and fitness level.

The Mazamas offers an annual course called the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) designed to train folks of all ages and skill levels in basic mountaineering, including traveling on snow, outdoor rock climbing, and general hiking and backpacking fundamentals. The program, which runs for eight weeks each spring, assigns participants to smaller teams, which have weekly classroom meet-ups as well as weekend trips and day hikes. While learning technical skills, including self-arrest, glacier rope travel, and rappelling, you also condition your body through your team’s training hikes.

BCEP aims to give you the ability to join Mazama A and B climbs, such as Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, and Mt. Adams, and to start your path to bigger adventures. Sounds fun, right? The best part of it all is the community of fellow outdoor enthusiasts,

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Above: Mazama BCEP team during a Cook Hill hike, 2022.

Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

climbers, and mountaineers that you meet throughout the course.

Sign up by yourself or with a friend, but either way, you will finish the course with a team of friends ready to join you on weekend adventures. BCEP also offers affinity group teams to help promote diversity in mountaineering. Depending on available leaders, we strive to host Latinx, LGBTQ+, substance-free, and weekday teams.

To learn more about BCEP, we recommend you attend our BCEP Info Night (via Zoom) on January 11, 2024. The application period will then open for about two weeks. (Please be aware that the BCEP application is not first-come first-served.) You will have the opportunity to choose your team based on your schedule availability and affinity team preferences. Mark your calendars, sign up for Info Night, and find new adventures in 2024!

WHAT PAST BCEP PARTICIPANTS HAVE TO SAY: Lily Cox-Skall: “As someone who loved the outdoors but never felt confident in my abilities to plan an adventure, pack accordingly, eat or dress correctly, or make game-time safety decisions in the mountains, BCEP gave me more confidence than I could have imagined. Although a beginner course, the amount you learn in eight weeks is unlike any other program I have signed up for in my adult life. In fact, BCEP inspired me so much that it also inspired people around me. Since completing BCEP, not only have I gone on many Mazama-sponsored adventures, but I have been able to bring many friends and family members into the mountains on day hikes, overnight backpacks, and even non-technical mountain climbs! As someone who completed a training course like BCEP, I feel confident to safely be able to bring folks along with me and experience the magic of the mountains together. I have seen more in the last two years since completing BCEP than I ever have before!”

Bri Hostetler: “I recall midway through the program when one of my BCEP leaders asked the group to reflect on two things: new knowledge acquired during the class and past experiences recreating in the outdoors. He then posed the question; ‘Knowing what you now know, was your safety during those experiences attributed to your level of preparedness or did you just get lucky?’ I realized that I had likely relied on luck to guide my way on a handful of occasions.

The mountains are perilous, and for me, appropriate application of safety is critical to my enjoyment of wild spaces. BCEP helped me to build a solid foundation of knowledge and skills to recreate responsibly and with confidence. I met incredible people, learned so much, challenged myself, and have continued to build my climbing resume with the skills I obtained during the course. I truly can’t recommend BCEP enough!”

Cecilia Estraviz: “BCEP was the catalyst for a new love of mountaineering, friends, and adventure. Having the opportunity to practice skills in my cohort gave me the tools to successfully summit five mountains (Mount St. Helens, Pinnacle Peak, Unicorn Peak, Gothic Peak, and Del Campo Peaks) this summer, with many more to come! Many of the foundational lessons I learned in BCEP are now being used regularly as a current ICS (Intermediate Climbing School) student. The team leaders and volunteer instructors did an excellent job preparing each of us to transfer our knowledge to real climbing experiences. I appreciate the opportunity and encourage anyone who would like to learn more about expanding their mountaineering skills to join! The act of climbing a mountain to the summit is unforgettable, but all those challenging, little learning moments each step of the way are the real value of the experience.”

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 13

NO ONE ACHIEVES WHAT THEY DON'T DARE

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Above: Anibal Rocheta at the book launch at Arc’teryx Portland, December 7, 2023.

nibal Rocheta has been a member of the Mazamas for nearly ten years, but his experience in mountaineering, climbing, and various outdoor activities dates back over 20 years. Originally from Venezuela, a South American country where mountaineering and climbing are not traditional sports, Rocheta has always stood out, both for his personality and his passion for these activities.

Recently, he published his debut book, Nadie logra lo que no se atreve (No One Achieves What They Don't Dare), a guide explaining the fundamental techniques of mountaineering and climbing for those eager to embark on these disciplines.

Additionally, the book shares Rocheta's 14 MAZAMAS

unique, firsthand stories from the mountains.

This literary work marks a significant milestone, being the first book in the U.S. that exclusively addresses this topic in Spanish. We recently had the opportunity to speak with Rocheta to learn more about the book and his initiation into this world.

How did the idea of writing the book come about?

The idea of writing a book began approximately nine years ago when I moved to the U.S. and realized the lack of material on mountaineering and climbing in Spanish. Upon moving here, I encountered a significant barrier to continuing two of my favorite disciplines: languages and mountaineering.

Within a few months of relocating to Portland, while researching where I could expand my knowledge in mountaineering and climbing, I discovered information about the Mazamas. I enrolled in its

climbing school, which not only reinforced my knowledge but also allowed me to make great friends who share my passion. It also helped me improve my English. However, I must admit that initially, understanding while in class was challenging, as everything was taught entirely in English.

The reason for creating the book is to serve as a bridge for those who want to learn about mountaineering and climbing, but, like me, have Spanish as their primary language. Additionally, I felt the need to share my mountain experiences, guiding people through my successes and mistakes, teaching them the proper way to approach these sports, and conveying the importance of having adequate knowledge.

What can we find in the book?

Nadie logra lo que no se atreve (No One Achieves What They Don't Dare) is an academic and illustrated book that presents, in a simple and detailed

continued on next page

NADIE LOGRA LO QUE NO SE ATREVE

Above: Cover of Nadie logra lo que no se atreve.

Above: Anibal Rocheta and MariaTeresa Lopes at the Arc’teryx event.

A

nibal Rocheta es miembro de los Mazamas desde hace casi diez años, pero su experiencia en el montañismo, escalada, y diversas actividades al aire libre se remonta desde hace más de 20 años. Rocheta es originario de Venezuela, un país de Sudamérica, donde el montañismo y la escalada no son deportes tradicionales. Pero él, siempre se destacó por no ser parte del montón tanto por su personalidad, como por su pasión en estos deportes.

Hace poco, estuvo estrenando su primer libro llamado Nadie logra lo que no se atreve, un libro que explica las técnicas básicas de montañismo y escalada para

todos aquellos que quieran iniciarse en estas disciplinas. Además, el libro comparte historias inéditas vividas por Rocheta dentro de las montañas.

Esta obra literaria, marca un hito importante, ya que se convierte en el primer libro que habla de este tópico 100 percento en español creado en los Estados Unidos. Hace poco, tuvimos la oportunidad de conversar con Rocheta para conocer un poco más sobre el libro y sus inicios en este mundo. ¿Cómo surgió la idea de hacer el libro?

La idea de hacer un libro empezó hace aproximadamente unos nieve años atrás cuando me mudé a los Estados Unidos y me di cuenta que no había mucho material sobre el montañismo y escalada en español. Cuando me mude acá, encontré una barrera muy grande para seguir practicando dos de mis disciplinas favoritas: el idioma y el montañismo.

Con solo pocos meses de mudarme a Portland, investigando sobre donde podría ampliar mis conocimientos en el área del montañismo y escalada, encontré información de los Mazamas, esta escuela que no solo reforzó mis conocimientos, sino que además, me permitió conocer grandes amigos que hoy en día compartimos esta pasión. Además, me permitió hasta mejorar mi inglés.

Sin embargo, debo admitir que al principio fue muy complicado poder entender las clases, ya que todo era enseñado 100 percento en inglés.

La razón de crear el libro, es poder ser un puente para todas aquellas personas que quieran conocer y aprender sobre el montañismo y escalada, pero que al igual que yo (hace diez años atrás) su idioma principal es el español.

Además, sentía la necesidad de compartir mis experiencias en la montaña,

continuado en la siquiente página JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 15

Dare, continued from previous page

manner, all the fundamental techniques and elements to consider when initiating yourself in mountaineering and climbing. In this book, I share very personal experiences (some shared for the first time) about events I've lived through while climbing a mountain or engaging in a climb.

You will find numerous images where I explain in detail how to create safety knots for climbing and appropriate clothing models, among others.

I also share unforgettable moments summiting mountains that will be etched in my memory.

Tell us a bit about your story.

I am Venezuelan, graduated as a technical superior in tourist services, and hold a degree in tourism promotion: marketing.

Since I was 17, I have been Above: Illustrations from Nadie logra lo que no se atreve. interested in the wonderful world of climbing and mountaineering, In addition to being an active member despite them not being very traditional of the Mazamas, the author of my book, and common sports in my country. I took and a provisional climb leader and courses in Venezuela, Spain, and Peru, and promoter of Latinx BCEP (Basic Climbing practiced continuously.

Education Program) for the Mazamas, I am In Venezuela, I founded the first the co-founder of Loco por la Aventura, a hiking group at the university I attended project that motivates and educates the to motivate my classmates to engage Latinx community (and anyone who wants in outdoor activities. Later, I created to belong to the Latinx community) to a tourism company called Aguedo engage in outdoor activities.

Expeditions, where I promoted ecotourism I have achieved several summits and in my country with activities such as experienced unsuccessful attempts in Peru, waterfall rappelling, spelunking, hiking, Spain, Venezuela, and the U.S., learning mountaineering, and climbing. valuable lessons from each, which I wanted Additionally, I produced and directed to share through my book. a national television program called How was the writing process?

"Expedición 20:09," where we visited every Writing this book has undoubtedly special region of Venezuela, showcasing been one of the most gratifying things in hidden beauties and various activities for my life, not only because I know it will be viewers to experience if they visited these a valuable tool for those wanting to enter places. climbing and mountaineering in Spanish, When I moved to the U.S., my goal did but also because it was a dream I had not change. I wanted to continue engaging envisioned for a long time. in outdoor activities and to motivate However, I did not initially realize the people to do the same, because outdoor extent of the work it would require. What activities have allowed me to lead a I thought would take six months to write physically and mentally healthier life. It has ended up taking two years. Yes, as I said, also taught me to fully enjoy nature and the two years.

It was a challenging task, but grandeur we have in the world. it was worth it, and I feel that without the 16 MAZAMAS

help of key individuals, it would not have been possible.

I am especially grateful to my wife, Maria Teresa Lopes, who, being a natural journalist and writer, assisted me with all the writing. Similarly, I appreciate the support of my great friend and illustrator, Lourdes, who was responsible for creating each image that I explained in detail.

It was hard work, with a lot of effort, sweat, and tears, but undoubtedly, when I saw the product in my hand, I understood that it was all worth it—as I titled the book, Nadie logra lo que no se atreve (No One Achieves What They Don't Dare).

Currently, it is available on Amazon for purchase, and the proceeds will be used to support the activities of the Loco por la Aventura project in 2024.

Atreved, continuación de la pagina anterior.

poder a través de mis aciertos y desaciertos, enseñarle a la gente cómo se deben hacer las cosas y la importancia de tener conocimiento adecuado al momento de practicar estos deportes.

tanto en Perú, España, Venezuela, y los Estados Unidos, aprendiendo de cada una de ellas, una enseñanza que he querido compartir a través de mi libro.

¿Cómo fue el proceso de escritura?

Escribir este libro sin lugar a duda, ha sido una de las cosas más gratificantes en mi ¿Qué podemos encontrar en vida, no solo porque se que el libro? será una valiosa herramienta Nadie logra lo que no se para aquellos que quieran atreve es un libro académico introducirse en la escalada y el e ilustrado que muestra montañismo y quieran hacerlo de forma sencilla y muy en español, sino además, detallada todas las técnicas porque era un sueño que tenía básicas y elementos que debes en mente desde hace mucho considerar al momento de tiempo. iniciarte en el montañismo y la Sin embargo, no estaba escalada. Además, en este libro claro de todo el trabajo que te comparto mis experiencias tomaría.

Lo que pensé que bien personales (algunas son tardaría en escribir seis meses, primera vez que comparto con terminó convirtiéndose en alguien) sobre eventos que he dos años.

Si, tal como dije, dos vivido mientras he subido una años.

Fue un trabajo arduo, montaña o he realizado una pero que valió la pena y siento escalada. que sin la ayuda de personas Arriba: Ilustraciones de Nadie logra lo que no se atreve.

En este libro, encontrarás claves no hubiera sido posible. muchas imágenes propias en la Además, produje y dirigí un programa Principalmente agradezco a mi esposa que explico detalladamente desde cómo de televisión nacional llamado “Expedición Maria Teresa Lopes, que gracias a que es elaborar algunos nudos de seguridad 20:09,” donde visitamos cada región periodista y escritora nata, pude ayudarme para la escalada y modelos de vestimenta especial de Venezuela, mostrándoles a con toda la redacción.

De igual forma, adecuada, entre otros. También, hablo de los televidentes las bellezas escondidas y al apoyo de mi gran amiga ilustradora, algunos momentos inolvidables haciendo además, diversas actividades que podían Lourdes, quien fue la encargada de crear cumbre en montañas que quedarán hacer si llegaban a visitar estos lugares. de forma inédita cada imagen que le grabadas en mi memoria.

Cuando me mudé a los Estados explicaba.

Unidos, mi norte no cambió. Mi idea era Cuéntanos un poco de tu historia.

Fue un trabajo duro, de mucho seguir haciendo actividades al aire libre y Soy venezolano, graduado como esfuerzo, sudor, y lágrimas, pero que sin motivar a las personas a hacerlo, porque técnico superior en servicios turísticos, lugar a duda, cuando vi el producto en mi son las actividades al aire libre lo que y licenciado en promoción turística: mano, entendí que todo valió la pena, como me han permitido llevar una vida física y marketing. Desde que tenía 17 años, titulé el libro Nadie logra lo que no se atreve. mentalmente más saludable, y además, empecé a interesarme por el maravilloso Actualmente, el libro se encuentra aprender a disfrutar de la naturaleza a mundo de la escalada y el montañismo, a disponible en Amazon para su compra, y el plenitud y de la grandiosidad que tenemos pesar de no ser deportes muy tradicionales dinero recaudado como ganancia, se usará en el mundo. y comunes en mi país. Empecé a hacer para apoyar las actividades del proyecto Además de ser miembro activo de los cursos tanto en Venezuela como en España Loco por la Aventura del 2024.

Mazamas, el escritor de mi libro, y un líder y Perú, y a practicar sin parar. provisional de los Mazamas y promotor En Venezuela, fundé el primer grupo del BCEP (Programa de educación básica de excursión en la universidad donde en escalada) latinx para los Mazamas, estudié, para motivar a mis compañeros a soy co-fundador de Loco por la Aventura, hacer actividades al aire libre. Luego, creé un proyecto que motiva y educa a la una empresa turística llamada Aguedo comunidad latina (y todos aquellos que Expeditions, donde impulsé el ecoturismo quieran pertenecer a la comunidad latina) en mi país, con actividades como el rapel a hacer actividades al aire libre. en cascada, espeleología, senderismo, Actualmente, son varias las cumbres e montañismo, y escalada. intentos fallidos que he logrado alcanzar, JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 17

MT. ABBOTT

by Joan MacNeill

I

n September, some 30 years ago, I was fishing the upper Little Lakes Valley along Rock Creek, which descends from the Eastern Sierra Nevada toward Tom’s Place on US 395.

Two hardy-looking lads decked out in mountaineering gear passed by. They said their destination was Mt. Abbott.

Mt. Abbott? The name intrigued me. Research showed it to be in the center of a small north-south group at the head of the valley: Mt. Mills to the north, Mt. Dade to the south, with Bear Creek Spire just south of the group, and Mt. Gabb just to the west. At some 13,700 feet in elevation, it was reputed to have a glacier, which is most likely history now. The Sierra Club's A Climbers Guide to the High Sierra shows a number of moderate routes. As this is my style, it proved an attractive goal.

The following September saw me dropped off at the end of the road, about 10,000 feet high. I followed the trail south until it turned east, where I turned northwest. I passed a few lakes, then crossed a ridge. It was getting late in the afternoon. At that latitude, the sun dives for the horizon much faster than in our Northwest, so it was time to settle down for an elegant evening. I found a sweet sandy bench, where I could scoop depressions for hips and shoulders for a comfy sleep. Supper, a wee nip of whiskey, then good night.

After my usual leisurely morning start, it was time to shoulder the pack and ascend. I had picked a likely-looking chute, which seemed to be between Sierra Club Routes 3 and 4. Most photos and descriptions showed snow, but that September it was bare. So up and away. I was too ignorant to know that the modern “preferred route” was the Northeast Couloir, a bit to the north. It turned out for the best, after later reading of many climbers’ complaints on the Northeast Couloir’s difficult access, scree, loose rock, mud, sludge, gripe, gripe, gripe... Mine was indeed a cooperative chute, with minimum loose rubble, good footholds, and no falling rock.

At one point it seemed advisable to drop my pack for a brief pitch, pulling it up by rope after me. Past that spot, all was blissfully well.

In a surprisingly short time, I topped out on the comfortably broad, gently sloping summit plateau. (It was only on review several years later that I realized my night’s bivy had been at 12,500 feet, leaving only a minimal scramble to the summit.)

The summit cairn was only about 200 yards south, across a surface strewn with rocks. At the cairn was a Sierra Club box with a summit register. The register requested that entries remain brief, to save space. I cooperated, entering my name, town, date, time, and weather. But the temptation was irresistible. I had to write: “If the mountain will not come to the Mazama, the Mazama must go to the mountain.”

I oohed and ahhed at the spectacular views of the High Sierra, all those dramatic granite peaks stretching into the distance in the clear sky, and the White Mountains to the east. It was so nice not to be in fog, as one finds on many of our summits. To the northwest was Mt. Gabb, with Gabbott Pass between, leading to the Second Recess of Mono Creek. Map in hand, it was fun to trace my next few days’ route among the peaks, including the picturesque Seven Gables. I was to join my friends on the South Fork of the San

18 MAZAMAS

Joaquin River, near Florence Lake.

Finally, it was time to cast about for a descent Above: Mt. Abbott. Image from Wikipedia. route.

Perhaps 150 feet south was a likely-looking inside corner, marked by a small cairn; I believe it was Sierra Club Route 1. Before me was a natural irregular staircase of small flat ledges of firm rock, moderately spaced. Gleefully, I set out. It was a blissful descent requiring only moderate caution, with no treacherous surprises— almost like meditation.

Thus lulled, I traveled along a nice ledge, cliff face to my left, the abyss below. I turned a bit for some reason, and my wide pack brushed against the wall, nudging me toward the edge—not enough to send me into space, but nevertheless a chilling wake-up call. Lesson learned, and remembered to this day.

Later, a short stretch prompted me to lower my pack and proceed unencumbered. I also looped my rope around a large convenient thumb and tied the end around my waist. Friction and the weight of my pack should moderate a fall. With that psychological boost, the mini-crux was a snap. Back on with the pack, and off we go.

The staircase soon gave way to an interminable talus slope with ankle-twisting loose rocks at every step. Slow, wearying, and annoying. At least there were nice views of the valley below, including the aptly named Lake Italy. When the endless talus finally ended, closer to the lake, I was treated to an enjoyable sight.

Most California gulls head inland to nest during the breeding season. A large fraction of them nest on islands in Mono Lake, many miles northeast. There’s an interesting story to that, worth exploring. It was fun to see about a dozen gulls gulling about on and above Lake Italy. I felt like a tourist on the Riviera. My route took me around the lake, to a nice grassy bench complete with inquisitive mouse, to spend the night.

Next day began the rest of my trek, perhaps another story.

Some of it went past a group of small lakes with cute bear-themed names, in a bearless region; Bear Creek inspired the names. This was part of the route described in an earlier Mazama outing.

It was a lovely time, a successful, safe climb to lift my spirit and boost my ego, with spectacular scenery, glorious Sierra rock, water, sky, and serene solitude. If you would like to bag an easy nearfourteener in the majestic Sierra Nevada, Mt. Abbott is your peak.

ARCTIC ODYSSEY: WHERE MOUNTAINS HAVE NO NAME

by Steven Wagoner

B

ig adventures live inside most of us. Far-off places that intrigue us and capture our imagination. Alaska and the Arctic have always been among those places for me. My fascination with the Far North began when I was very young and read books like The Call of the Wild by Jack London, Never Cry Wolf by Farley Mowat, and poems by Robert Service.

There’s a land where the mountains are nameless, And the rivers all run God knows where; There are lives that are erring and aimless, And deaths that just hang by a hair; There are hardships that nobody reckons; There are valleys unpeopled and still; There’s a land—oh, it beckons and beckons, And I want to go back—and I will. from The Spell of the Yukon

by Robert Service I followed my dreams and was fortunate enough to spend eight years living and

exploring in Alaska. But I’ve always wanted to go back and go even farther north, even deeper into the wilderness, to the Brooks Range, to the Arctic. Having recently retired, and hoping to someday visit all 63 national parks, I knew it was high time to start planning a trip to the most remote park of them all: Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. After some research on the park’s website, it became apparent that such a trip was not going to be easy or cheap. There’s a good reason it’s the least-visited national park.

I started putting together a plan for a two-week backpacking, climbing, and packrafting trip into the park. Park rangers refer to this as a black belt park, for the

Above: Shawn Thomas surveying the Arrigetch Peaks in the Brooks Range.

Photo by Steven Wagoner.

most experienced backcountry travelers who are proficient in outdoor survival skills. Since this is also prime grizzly bear country, I really didn’t want to go alone, so I pitched the idea to a couple of friends who I knew had the necessary hiking and climbing experience. For some perspective, Alaska Alpine Adventures is one of the few approved guide services in the park, and a similar 12-day trip runs $8,000 per person, not including airfare to Fairbanks.

Amazingly enough, my friends Bob Breivogel and Shawn Thomas both showed interest, and after we all agreed on dates that would work, I started booking flights

continued on next page JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 19

Above:Shawn Thomas surveying the Arrigetch Peaks in the Brooks Range. Albatross, Xanadu, and Ariel in the foreground.

Photo by Steven Wagoner.

Arctic, continued from previous page. and hotels, and renting packrafts. Our trip started to take shape.

On the afternoon of July 24, 2023, the three of us flew into Gates of the Arctic National Park on a small four-seat Cessna float plane and made a smooth landing on Circle Lake. We unloaded our gear and then watched as the float plane took off and disappeared into the distance. Some people get a profound sense of being left alone when their plane flies away; it’s called “drop shock,” when you become keenly aware of just how small you are in the grand scheme of things. We were now on our own for 11 days, and excited about the adventures ahead. The plan was to stash our packrafts and some food at Circle Lake, and then spend seven days hiking and climbing in the Arrigetch Peaks. We would then return to our stash and spend four days rafting down the wild and scenic Alatna River to Takahula Lake, where our float plane would, hopefully, return to pick us up.

20 MAZAMAS

Gates of the Arctic is the secondlargest of all the national parks in the U.S., spanning over 8.5 million acres, all above the Arctic Circle. There are no roads, trails, or campgrounds in the park. The Park Service states on its website that it does not provide help with route finding, as Congress set this land aside as a trailless wilderness, specifically so that each individual could find their own experience.

Many of the other Alaskan national parks follow a similar trailless approach. I obtained maps and did research to find out how other people had hiked into the upper Arrigetch Valley. Most reports said it took a lot of bushwhacking before they could find the rough bush trail along Arrigetch Creek. I knew that once we got to a certain elevation above treeline (about 2,400 feet), we would find open tundra that would be much easier to walk across.

We set out through the taiga with our 40-pound packs. That first day was very difficult. Our packs were heavy, there was no trail, and we were bushwhacking through dense alder and willow thickets,

and stumbling across tussocks and bogs.

It was slow going and it was unbelievably hot for the Arctic, with temps reaching into the mid-80s. At least the mosquitos weren’t too bad. We only made it three and a half miles that first day, and it took us over five hours—incredibly slow compared to hiking the well-maintained trails of the Pacific Northwest. We were super happy when we finally found a good place to camp that wasn’t in a bog or alder thicket. That night we went to sleep in the land of the midnight sun, where it never gets dark in the middle of summer.

The second day still required a good deal of bushwhacking, and we tried to follow a rough bush trail that was often full of mud and water, or disappeared altogether. We hiked for nine hours on day two, and only managed six miles. We camped near the large creek that flows out of the Aquarius Valley. On the third day, we reached our high camp at 2,841 feet. We would spend four nights at this base camp.

It was a beautiful open area of tundra with sweeping views of the big Arrigetch Peaks.

Since the weather was holding out, we all agreed to make our climb of Ariel Peak the next day. We awoke to beautiful blue skies and began hiking at 5 a.m. Crossing Arrigetch Creek was a little tricky, but we found a wide, shallow area where the current was not too strong. We followed the creek several miles upstream until we reached a valley on the east side of Ariel Peak.

We climbed up a rather steep tundra and boulder slope for a thousand feet to where the valley levels out. There were no trees as far as you could see. A view of the entire Arrigetch Peaks opened up before us, and we could see several glaciers at the base of the nearby peaks. The glacial cirques and moraines were on full display.

There were crevasses and bright turquoisecolored tarns, and towering granite peaks all around us. It was a magnificent view.

These were the high alpine mountains of the Arctic that I had come to explore.

As we followed the valley around the base of Ariel Peak, we noticed that clouds were starting to move in. The valley came to an end at a large talus slope with water cascading down the middle. We put our climbing helmets on, skirted the waterfall to the left, and began climbing the steep

boulder fields to the saddle between Ariel Peak and Caliban. As we climbed higher, we crossed several small snowfields. With the clouds becoming darker and more ominous, we knew we needed to get to the summit and back down quickly. Bob was not feeling his best, and started to lag behind. Shawn and I reached the saddle and looked down the other side. We could see Mt. Igikpak in the distance, the highest peak in Gates of the Arctic National Park at 8,276 feet, and the headwaters of the Noatak River.

As we started up the summit ridge, a light rain began to fall, and it wasn’t long before all the rocks became wet and slippery. We stopped and put on our rain jackets. There were huge slabs of schist to climb over and around, and there were some sections of class 3 scrambling that required using both hands and feet along with some areas of exposure. It was obvious that the conditions were really changing for the worse, and I no longer felt safe or comfortable scrambling up the loose wet boulders and steep rocks. I made the decision to turn back just 600 feet below the summit. It just wasn’t worth the risk of slipping or falling and getting hurt, especially in such a remote wilderness,

where rescue would take a very long time if anyone could even get to us.

Bob had made his way to the low point of the saddle, but had turned back when the rain started. Shawn, being much younger, nimble, and quick, said he felt okay scrambling on the wet rock and wanted to continue to the summit. I said “Go for it,” and watched as he made it quickly up the final 600 feet. I could see him standing on the summit. I knew he would be back down quickly, and that I would be much slower on the wet rock, so I started to make my way back down the steep boulders and across the snowfields.

It wasn’t long before Shawn caught up with me, and I congratulated him on making the summit. I was happy for him, and glad that we had put at least one Mazama on top.

We rejoined Bob down in the valley. The rain had stopped, and a little blue sky was starting to reappear. I was disappointed to have not made the summit, but was very glad to be exploring the mountains of this Arctic wilderness.

Two days later, after enjoying a rest day in camp, we set out to explore the Aquarius Valley. We were still hiking above treeline,

continued on next page JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 21

Arctic, continued from previous page and we spent most of the day crossing tundra and boulder fields. Our goal was to reach the large alpine lakes which had been formed by the receding glaciers. It was a narrow and steep valley with towering cliffs and peaks on both sides. After some boulder scrambling, we finally reached the lakes. They were a deep blue, and the water was cold and crystal clear. There were several waterbirds around the lake that gave out loud warning calls when we came near. We lingered beside the lake for a while before safely returning to our camp for the final night in the Arrigetch.

It was now day seven and we hiked all the way back through the boreal forest to a campsite near Circle Lake. The next morning, we were glad to find our rafts and food stash untouched, and were eager to begin our packrafting adventure, but first, we had to get to the Alatna River. We inflated our little rafts, strapped our huge packs on top, and launched out across Circle Lake. At the end of the lake, we paddled our way through several narrow channels full of tall grass and reeds that connected to several smaller lakes. Moving quietly across the lakes allowed us to observe several different species of ducks and birds.

When we reached the end of the lakes, we had to portage our rafts and backpacks a short distance to the Alatna River. Once we had all of our gear securely lashed back on top of the rafts, we headed down the river. It was nice to have a current to follow, and just let our rafts float down the river.

It was so peaceful and relaxing to sit back and enjoy the beauty of the river and the surrounding mountains. We floated and paddled over ten miles that day, and made camp on a sandy gravel bar along the river.

It rained lightly that night, but the next morning was clear and sunny.

Back in the rafts for our final day on the river, we let the current take us down and through this amazing mountain landscape.

We stopped a couple of miles downriver to explore an old homesteader’s cabin and tried to imagine what it would be like to spend a long, cold, and dark winter in the Arctic. It’s completely dark for almost two months, and winter temperatures in the Brooks Range average around 20 below zero, but can sometimes reach 50–60 below for weeks at a time.

Top: Albatross Peak towers over the headwaters of Arrigetch Creek.

Middle: High alpine lake in the Aquarius Valley.

Bottom: Floating down the wild and scenic Alatna River.

Photos by Steven Wagoner.

22 MAZAMAS

Above: View of the Alatna River Valley from the summit of Takahula Peak.

Inset: Packrafting across the lake to climb Takahula Peak.

Photos by Steven Wagoner.

We kept a close watch on our maps and GPS for the portage trail that would lead us over to Takahula Lake. When we pulled our rafts up on the gravel bar, there were bear, wolf, and moose prints in the sand. It was about a half-mile portage through a wet and muddy trail, but we made it to the lake and strapped our packs back on top of the rafts. Our float plane pick-up site was on the only little sandy beach on the far side of the lake. We no longer had a current to help us, and the wind was blowing against us.

It was a big lake, and it was slow going. It took us a while, but we finally reached the beach where we set up our final camp.

At the north end of the lake, there is a beautiful mountain peak that rises almost 3,000 feet above the lake. It has that perfect mountain shape with a craggy summit, and when I first saw pictures of it, I knew it was a mountain I wanted to climb. Our last big Arctic adventure was to try and climb to the top of this unnamed peak, so first thing

the next morning we set off in our packrafts back across the lake. We pulled our rafts ashore near a beaver lodge, where we were quickly greeted by Mr. Beaver, who slapped his tail in the water repeatedly to let us know we were not welcome.

From the lake’s edge, we had to endure a mile or more of bushwhacking before we finally got above treeline, where the terrain changed to alpine meadows and boulder fields. We startled a family of willow ptarmigan among the rocks, and they exploded into flight. Up a steep chute, we were able to gain the long ridge to the summit, and with a little scrambling we stood on the summit of the mountain we decided to call Takahula Peak. It was rather cloudy, but warm, and the views were magnificent in every direction. We spent a full hour on the summit. It was such a

great way to spend our final full day in the Brooks Range.

That evening as I sat at camp, looking across the lake at Takahula Peak, and listening to the distinct haunting calls of the loons on the lake, I was reminded of just how special this wilderness is, and just how lucky I was to experience the true beauty of the Arctic.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 23

BOOK REVIEW Capturing Glaciers: A History of Repeat Photography and Global Warming

by Dani Inkpen

by Peter Boag

I

n Capturing Glaciers, Dani Inkpen, a historian of science, teaches us that we still have much to learn about glaciers, the social lenses through which we view them, and especially how cultural assumptions influence the science we have created and rely on to study ice bodies and their disappearance in the age of global warming. She focuses attention on the changing role that repeat photography—that is, photographs taken of a glacier from the same spot perhaps years apart—has played in the scientific study of glaciers from the late nineteenth century to the present, pointing out that this tool for monitoring glaciers is not a twenty-first-century development. Taking into consideration this longer history, Inkpen’s premise is that while repeating photographs of glaciers can provide scientific evidence of what objectively appears to be their advance and (more often these days) their retreat, the photographs are about “more than just glaciers. They’re also about nature, land, how we can know about such things, and the value we ascribe to them.”

The history Inkpen investigates is globally relevant and she refers to glaciers and ice sheets in many parts of the world. She even briefly comments on ice bodies in Washington State and also mentions the early efforts of the Mazamas at collecting data on glaciers. Her focus, however, is on the much-studied and photographed glaciers of western Canada (near Banff) and coastal Alaska. In her introduction, Inkpen provides a thorough critique of the many problems with repeat photography. But, “[b]oiled down,” she states, “they oversimplify both glaciers and global warming.” Her next five chapters correspond to the eras of modern glacier study and the role of photography in each.

The first considers the end of the nineteenth century, when both portable photography and Western glacier science were in their infancy. The photographers, male and female, European American and Canadian, were more naturalists and mountaineers than laboratory scientists and were informed by the era’s debates about broad geological change, especially the end of the Ice Age. They were also colonizers—recording images that imparted foreign meaning to the land and bringing it into the realm of Western ways of knowing. These outdoor photographers also encouraged climbing and tourism in the North American West while being funded and supported by railroads seeking profit from such activities.

The early twentieth century was a transitional era in the history of repeat photography, away from the methods and questions of glacier naturalists to a third era, lasting until the end of World War II, and dominated by researchers schooled in the science of geophysical glaciology. These experts focused more on measuring and quantifying, and they employed newer scientific tools for doing such. Funded in large part and therefore very much shaped by the American military that was seeking knowledge about Arctic climes, they were less interested in proving geological change, and much more fascinated by the nature and dynamics of ice and the advancing and retreating of individual glaciers that they observed on the Alaska coastline. During this era, while they employed cameras for documenting their activities, scientists

24 MAZAMAS

eschewed repeat photography because they saw it as useless for explaining why a glacier behaves as it does.

The fourth era, dominated by “environmental glaciology,” stretches from roughly 1950 to the 1990s. Glaciologists during this era continued the use of geophysical methods but found that the study of individual glaciers, which dominated the previous era, could not tell a larger regional story where some glaciers were retreating while others, sometimes in one valley over, were advancing. The scientists of this era rediscovered the uses of repeat photography to capture these regional changes and they did so through employing aerial methods where larger masses of the glaciers in Alaska could be photographed from above. But environmental glaciologists also did not yet entertain the ideas of global warming, in part because not all glaciers they observed were receding, in part because the calibrated interests of geophysical glaciology still held sway, and also because the science of humancaused climate change was yet nascent.

This would change by the 1990s, when global warming became much more obvious and glaciers around the world were in retreat. Scientists, journalists, and recreationists resumed repeat photography in earnest, partly because glaciers were rapidly disappearing but more because as climate change became evident, so also hardened the minds and opinions of climate-change deniers. The drama of retreating glaciers that repeat photography might reveal about global warming—it was at least believed by those who believed their eyes and the

evidence—might be employed as stark confirmation to move even the most shortsighted. The effects proved mixed, however, something Inkpen chalks up to the fact that repeat photography of glaciers has always been about more than objective fact but also about culture, attitudes, politics, meanings, and people.

Repeat photography likewise does not tell a complete story of climate change, since it really neither depicts nor explains the complexities that happen between when photographs are taken.

The photographs, moreover, are of subjects that have always been changing and, more importantly, are far removed from the daily lives of those whom they are intended to impress.

Capturing Glaciers is so much more than what is reviewed here—it also delves into the often-fascinating lives of those behind the cameras; it considers Indigenous knowledge about glaciers and purposely employs many Indigenous place names; and it includes the author’s own story and relationship to glaciers. It is a beautifully, almost lyrically written study that blends science, perception, the human condition, the vagaries of ice, and much, much more. I believe that after reading this fascinating story, you will not look at and see glaciers the same way twice.

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 25

LOOKING BACK

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

I

ntroducing “Looking Back,” an occasional column that delves into the rich history of the Mazamas. As your guide through the annals of time, we’ll embark on a journey back 25, 75, and 125 years to revisit the remarkable events, happenings, and adventures that have shaped the organization’s legacy. From aweinspiring mountaineering triumphs to community milestones, this column serves as a nostalgic chronicle, offering a lens into the enduring spirit of the Mazamas.

25 years ago (1998)

In the literary realm, member George Padon took center stage, penning a thoughtful review of Kingdom of Adventure by James January of 1998 brought that year’s BCEP program's Ramsey Ullman for the bulletin. The book, a chronicle of the humble beginnings with an announcement for applications. relentless attempts to summit Mt. Everest, resonated with Padon, As applications found their way into eager hands, the Library who eloquently remarked on the presence of humor, courage, fear, Committee stepped into the spotlight, advocating for the addition and an unwavering purpose that drew men repeatedly to what of a part-time librarian and the expertise of contract archivists.

George Mallory aptly named ”This Kingdom of Adventure.”

Meanwhile, the Mazama Lodge transformed into a hub of cultural Amidst the echoes of history, a practical reminder reverberated fusion, hosting a Bolivian feast and treating enthusiasts to a slide through the membership ranks, urging members to renew their presentation by Dennis Olmstead. commitment to the Mazamas In the realm of outdoor by renewing their memberships. adventures, the Outing Committee Meanwhile, a group of intrepid put on the Outing Leadership Local Walkers, as the Trail Symposium—a gathering dedicated Trips Committee was known in to the art of organizing and leading those days, found themselves Mazama Outings. Simultaneously, momentarily astray on a hike the Trail Trips Committee to Coalca Pillar near Oregon embarked on its 5th annual Hike City. Undeterred, they navigated Leader Training on February back using a compass and dead 2, 1998, instilling the spirit of reckoning, adding a touch of leadership among Mazama hikers. adventure to their trek.

From the stacks of the Mazama The Mazama Lodge witnessed Library, a literary gem emerged the whimsical celebration of as the January Book Pick—Sonia George Washington’s birthday Buist and Emily Keller's Around through a “Liars Contest.” Members Mt. Hood in Easy Stages, enticing were encouraged to liberally oil Above: Dr. Henry F. Reed leading Mazamas on Mt. Hood, readers to circle Mt. Hood in 1901. up their tongues, spinning tall tales manageable sections. Not to be Image from Mazama Library and Historical Collection, VM1993.020. of mountaineering and skiing to outdone, the Library triumphed in regale their fellow Mazamas with acquiring a rare copy of Colonel C.G. fantastical adventures.

Bruce's Kulu and Lahoul. This treasure, long sought by the Library Finally, the Mazamas treated their community to a Committee, chronicled Colonel Bruce's seven-month exploration mesmerizing presentation at Library Hall. Featuring film footage of the Himalayan range, setting the stage for his historic attempt to and slides, the event showcased the first American ascent of summit Mt. Everest in 1922.

Mount St. Elias by Dee Molenaar—a spectacle that also graced Also in the bulletin, a call resonated for the veterans of the pages of the February 1948 issue of National Geographic, Mazama adventures—25-year members were beckoned to join immortalizing this daring feat in both word and image. the newly formed "Old Timers" Committee, now fondly known as the Classics. A rallying cry for those who'd “been there, done that,” 125 years ago (1898) encouraging them to lend their expertise in organizing events, The Mazamas did not publish an Annual in 1898, and the birth hikes, and climbs for the seasoned souls who shared a legacy of of the Mazama Bulletin was still 25 years away. Looking back at Mazama milestones. the minutes of the Mazama Executive Council, as the Board of Directors was known at the time, shows that the council members 75 years ago (1948) were hard at work drafting the constitution of the Mazamas. More Founding member Willis Ross, a living testament to the important, historically, the minutes note that the council received enduring legacy of the Mazamas, not only graced the 1947 Annual and read a letter from Dr. Henry Fielding Reed seeing the Mazama Banquet and Dance but danced away with the prize for the best cooperation in the “measurement and delineation of glaciers in waltz. A remarkable feat, considering it occurred 54 years after his the northwest and recording data regarding the same.” The council pioneering climb to the summit of Mt. Hood, a climb that played a voted to take on the work and assist Dr. Reed. pivotal role in the establishment of the Mazamas in 1894.

26 MAZAMAS

MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP AUGUST Membership Report

SEPTEMBER Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 25 Mike Ackerman Allison Ackerman Adrianne Adomeit Callie Bailey Gabriela Balmer Liesel Benecke Lucy Brehm Ob Bube Keelan Carnal John Dean Jon Ellerbrook Emerson Harris Jennifer Holloway Smith REINSTATEMENTS: 0 DECEASED: 0 MEMBERSHIP ON AUGUST 30: 2,775 (2022); 2,947 (2023)

NEW MEMBERS: 17 Marcella Baldwin Brett McIlmail Brittany Bellamy Ron Phipps Jeffrey Dorenbush Aaron Reed Kim Epling Anastasia Roeszler Kylo Ginsberg Matthew Shull Delia Hernandez Grant Stanaway Eve Hyatt Dinesh Vijayakumar Drew Machaffie Clarke Young Lauren Mathieson REINSTATEMENTS: 0 DECEASED: 3 MEMBERSHIP ON SEPTEMBER 30: 2,757 (2022); 3,046 (2023)

Dan Kellenberger Logan Mante Barbara McLean Monica Morales Megan Nace Scott Penzarella Tristan Pettit Chris Rabold Quinn Smith Phoebe Stoner Thuy Tran Carol Turner

OCTOBER Membership Report

NOVEMBER Membership Report

NEW MEMBERS: 42 Jen Burgett Tomas Canter Mike Cash Srirama Chandra Brett Close Brendon Connelly Steve Cook Stephen De Herrera Stephanie Doshier Kent Ellgren Jonathon Fisher Elizabeth Franke Annette Gerlecki Sara Ghafouri Jennifer Grassman Kristen Holmes Seth Kretser Mark Kuka Ralph Leftwich Christie Lok Chris Luby

NEW MEMBERS: 47 Melissa Arnold Sonja Jones Eric Berg Austin Kiemele Deepa Bharatkumar Kathryn Kilty Lorien Brown Peter Kokopeli Nancy Church Sean Kuiawa Jeff Coffin Josh Legere David Cole Christopher Lenox Leslie Constans Kayt Mathers Arthur Davis Matthew Miller Reid Decker Jonathan Minori Nicole Diggins Marcus Mittasch Cathy Dow Todd Mylet Kelly Kenison Falkner Eddie Newsom Cheryl Faulkner Caitlin O’Brien-Carelli Maron Faulkner Caroline Oakley Julie Frye Kendra Oldow Bruce Glass Marisa Simon Melanie Glock Portland Stock Cleaver May Gu Pete Walter Nick Hankins Ian Wiebke Jeff Harmon Mark Wilde Paul Henerlau Juan Pablo Zamanillo Nathan Howell Imelda Zavala Corey Johns REINSTATEMENTS: 14 DECEASED: 0 MEMBERSHIP ON NOVEMBER 30: 2,049 (2022); 3,105 (2023)

REINSTATEMENTS: 44 DECEASED: 2 MEMBERSHIP ON OCTOBER 31: 1,188 (2022); 3,058 (2023)

Crystal Maass Melissa Malloy Mark Mclaughlin Jeff Means Dana Monroe Harry Mosser Dave Mullen Heather Offenstein Scott Page Ian Pennellwalklin James Perry Joe Robinson Crystal Rummer John Sandbo Henry Sessions David Sliwa Jo Spencer Matthew Steigerwalt Stephanie Wettstein Nicole Wood Randy Zasloff

Editor's note: Due to the elimination of the glaciated peak membership requirement, we will no longer be publishing the names of qualifying peaks with new members.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 27

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

MAZAMA LODGE OUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN

September 10, 2023–Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Josh Lockerby, Leader; Walker McAninch-Runzi, Assistant Leader. Saad Ahmed, Christabel Behr, Andrew Behr, Carol Bryan, Kathrin Dragich, Sergei Kunsevich, Alex Kunsevich, Gary Riggs, Terry Sayre, Leslie Shotola.

October 6, 2023–Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Darren Ferris, Leader; Emily Carpenter, Assistant Leader. Cecilia Estraviz, Sangram More, Chris Reigeluth, Evan Smith, Nathan Taylor.

October 7, 2023–South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Sohaib Haider, Leader; Aimee Filimoehala, Assistant Leader. Patricia Akers, Peter Boag, Brian Campos, Douglas Filiak, Alex Kunsevich, Shawna Vickers, William Withington.

October 14, 2023–Mt. Bailey, SE Ridge. Scott Auble, Leader; Lindsey Addison, Assistant Leader. Conrad Cartmell, Cullen Raphael, Candice Smith, Lynsey Tyler.

October 15, 2023–Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Forest Brook MenkeThielman, Leader; Justin (JC) Colquhoun, Assistant Leader. Jenni Tan, Assistant Leader.

Conrad Cartmell, Kat Miracle, Malcolm Reilly, Steph Reinwald, Tuller Schricker, Eleasa Sokolski.

October 21, 2023–Broken Top, Green Lakes / NW Ridge. Tim Scott, Leader; Priyanka Kedalagudde, Assistant Leader.

Ryan Bradley, Kristine de Leon, Mark Goering, David Gross, Lucas Illing, Nicolas Martinez, Evan McDowell, Brett McIlmail, Aaron Reed, James Taylor.

November 3, 2023–Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge (No Permit).

Nimesh “Nam” Patel, Leader; Michael Hortsch, Assistant Leader. Michele Scherer Barnett, Zack Boisselle, Brayden Goodlin, Courtney Hayes-Lattin, Kellie Peaslee, Finn Ramos, Mark Santa Maria.

November 16, 2023–Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge (No Permit).

Sohaib Haider, Leader; Eric Brainich, Assistant Leader. Nick Dolja, Matt Mudrow, Mohammadreza Saeedpour, Jen Travers, Farzane Zokaee.

November 25, 2023–Mt. Hood (Wy’east), South Side. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Mark Mott, Assistant Leader. Leah Brown, Chris Jay Burreson, Collin EdwardsHill, Rachel Faulkner, Ian FitzGerald, Matt Mudrow, Rob Sinnott, Imelda Zavala.

28 MAZAMAS

by Chris Jaworski

I

magine…our lodge, once again a gathering place for members and the wider outdoor community; an inclusive space for making positive impacts, connecting our members, friends, families, program participants, guests, partners, and visitors in achieving the mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains locally, regionally, and perhaps beyond.

The Mazama Lodge has and always will have a community formed by place, shared identity, shared experiences, and memories. The Mazama exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society speaks to a timeless sense of belonging—a collective heartbeat—and it represents guiding principles for decisions that affect the lodge’s future.

A special opportunity exists for the Mazama Lodge. Opening the lodge in its entirety in 2024 is an extremely important priority for the board of directors, executive director, and the Lodge Committee. Throughout this past year, many contributors have given their time, energy, and input to shaping potential scenarios for opening the lodge, and all would agree it’s taken longer than

originally hoped for. Consideration has been given to an all-volunteer approach, contracted concessionaire, hospitality management models, internal staffing, and hybrids of any combination to modernize operations while retaining the soul and spirit of our home on the mountain.

In its current state, the lodge requires a more comprehensive level of involvement to optimize and protect this precious organizational asset while creating a functioning foundation for a sustainable operating model, management oversight, financial performance, member satisfaction, facility upgrades, and ability to meet health and safety compliance, among other important considerations. It is with sincere gratitude to our members who have been immensely patient waiting for fresh hot morning coffee, the crackling blaze of a warm fire, and the sounds of snow’s silence that an enormous thank you is due!

Remember as the calendar turns toward the new year that this moment could be a watershed to amplify our collective inspiration at the base of Mt. Hood—a Mazama Lodge identity that honors its past, learns from recent experience, and inspires generations ahead. Embarking on this next chapter of education, responsible recreation, stewardship, and togetherness can be a new impact model for the ages.

SUMMIT VIEWS REAWAKEN ARTISTIC SPIRIT

by Jen Travers

O

n a picture-perfect day this summer, Elizabeth Reed hiked up the Pole Creek trail with a Mazama team and set up camp. It was her first overnight climb, and her pack was heavy. The next morning, the team summitted Middle Sister. Although this was the most physically challenging climb she’d ever undertaken, it remains in her memory as one of her favorites. The mesmerizing views in every direction and the array of snowy Cascade peaks lining up to the north and south rekindled her artistic spirit. It had been seven years since she picked up a paintbrush, but after this climb, Elizabeth felt a strong urge to capture this moment in a painting.

The View from Middle Sister was the first of several large-format acrylic paintings Elizabeth created this year. After Middle Sister, she went on to climb Mount St. Helens, Mt. Whittier, and Broken Top, and then paint the views from their summits.

“Mountaineering is a spiritual experience that brings me out of my routine and alters my perception of time,” says Elizabeth.

“It’s sometimes difficult to immediately adjust back to the pace and expectations of the real world after being immersed in nature.

Any spiritual experience requires me to integrate what I felt and learned. Painting is a great way to do that.”

Elizabeth Reed joined the Mazamas in 2022 after taking BCEP. She regularly participates in hikes, rambles, and climbs, and has taken the Nordic skiing class. She is currently an ICS student.

We wish you the best on your journey Elizabeth!

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 29

100 PEAKS OF MT. RAINIER

by Jen Travers

E

very time I visit Mount Rainier National Park (MRNP), I have such a wonderful time and I ask myself “Why don't I come here more often?” It’s just under a three-hour drive from Portland— about the same amount of time it takes to get to Smith Rock.

Close enough for a day trip or a quick overnighter. When I discuss this with my Mazama friends, many say the same thing; most have only visited the Tatoosh Range and the Mt. Rainier summit.

Mt. Rainier National Park is huge, with 370 square miles of terrain surrounding the centerpiece of Mighty Tahoma. Emanating in every direction from the Mt. Rainier massif are 25 glaciers and a vast array of alpine meadows, valleys, and peaks. Many peaks. In his quest to learn more about the park, Mickey Eisenberg from the Seattle Mountaineers created the “100 Peaks at Mt. Rainier” list. He was the first on record to visit all of them.

Fifteen of the 100 peaks can be summited by simply hiking up a maintained trail. Seventy-six of them require off-trail scrambling skills and nine are considered technical climbs. The latter include either glacier travel and/or 4th–5th class rock with protection needed. Most peaks can be climbed in a day, and some are clustered close enough that teams can tackle climbing several summits in a day, or more with an overnight basecamp (see pro tip below). Many of these peaks see only a few visitors per year and are reached by hiking off-trail, bushwacking, and traversing snowfields and talus slopes. For those of us who enjoy solitude in the alpine, a fine outing can be had by choosing one or two of the lesser-known peaks from the list.

A combination of confident scrambling and good navigation skills will provide you with endless opportunities within the park, and an escape from the crowds.

On a Mazama climb of Second Mother Mountain I learned about the 100 peaks list from Doug Wilson. I have only climbed 16 of the peaks so far. I don't think I’ll ever finish, but I do enjoy attempting one or two a year. My favorites so far are Pyramid Peak and Old Desolate.

Doug Wilson has led 40 Mazama climbs to various peaks on the list in his quest to complete all 100. Doug explains,

30 MAZAMAS

“I first learned of the Mt. Rainier 100 in early 2012. I had already done 11 of them, and decided to start exploring more of the park beyond the typical Mazama Unicorn, Castle, and Pinnacle climbs in the Tatoosh.

Initially, I wasn’t thinking of doing all 100, but a number of these climbs can be combined so a person can do two, three, or even four in a day, and the total started to accumulate pretty fast. From the time I actively started working on the list, it took me nine years, from 2012 to 2021 (skipping 2013), to complete it. My best year was 2017 when I climbed 20 of them.”

One of Doug’s favorites is Little Tahoma. Standing at 11,138 feet, it is the highest and most technical of the 100. Doug describes it as “a wonderful alpine climb that uses all an intermediate climber’s skills—route finding, glacier travel, steep snow, and 3rd class rock scrambling on a high exposure summit pinnacle. Plus the views of Mt. Rainier are fantastic—you can see climbers on both the Emmons and DC routes.”

Two other of his favorites are Third Mother Mountain and Mt. Sluiskin. They are known among peak questers as two of the most challenging climbs on the list and are accessed via the Carbon River Road.

Biking up this (closed to motor vehicles) road shortens the approach hike by five miles. Doug discovered that attempting Third Mother in the late summer results in a hellish brush bash with tortuous route finding, and he failed in his first attempt.

His next attempt “was in early May when there was still snow on the ground, so we were able to move pretty fast over 1,200 feet up a large gulley with perfect crampon conditions. The upper section involved squeezing through a deep moat and a long scramble to the summit over

rock steps and large trees.” Located off the Northern Loop Trail, Mt. Sluiskin was his 99th peak, and another one that required multiple attempts. It has a long approach, route finding, several 3rd class pitches, and a fun 4th class lead. Again, “failing and then returning and succeeding makes one appreciate the effort.”

Other climb leaders continue to offer occasional climbs to the Mt. Rainier 100 peaks. Keep your eye out this coming season for trips to Mt. Wow, Goat Island Mountain, and Echo Rock. To help you plan your own trip, the Mountaineers now have an eBook guide available online that you can download from their website, as well as a smartphone app. It contains route descriptions, maps, and GPS files. Happy climbing!

Pro tip­—getting a cross-country zone permit: Most climber/backpacker people I talk to are unaware of the cross-country zone permits (also called backcountry or wilderness permits) that are available in many of our national parks. For those of us who cherish solitude in the backcountry, hiking for miles and then having to camp in a large designated campground with 20 other people is antithetical to the wilderness

experience. A cross-country zone permit allows the backpacker to choose their own site within a designated zone. The number of permits per night within each zone is very limited, but even in high season, there are usually plenty of choices available because most people are unaware of this option.

Sometimes these zone permits are difficult to find on recreation.gov. A strategy I have used is to reserve designated campsites for a trip as a backup, then go to the ranger station at the start of the trip. They are usually helpful with switching one or all of my nights to a cross-country zone permit.

Facing: Doug Wilson near the summit of Mt. Sluiskin.

Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

Top: Jeff Earl, Hanna Wentz, Doug Wilson, and Jen Travers on Second Mother Mountain.

Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

Bottom: Doug Wilson, Lacey Breton, and Rick Craycraft biking up the Carbon River Road.

Photo by Teresa Dalsager.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 31

32 MAZAMAS

SAYING GOODBYE ALLISON LOGAN BELCHER JANUARY 25, 1931–SEPTEMBER 25, 2023

As a child in Massachusetts, Allison Logan loved to climb trees. Later, following her father’s time in the military around the country, she climbed trees wherever they were, finally landing in Corvallis. In 1948, Allison went to college at Oregon State and discovered rock climbing. She and her fellow students in the school mountaineering club (one of whom, Willi Unsoeld, became a famous mountaineer) would go to the Coburg Caves to rock climb.

After college, Allison moved to England to attend the London School of Economics and joined its climbing club. They climbed in England’s Lake District and in Wales. Allison routinely bicycled from London to these destinations. When she returned to the States to attend the University of Chicago, Allison started a climbing club there. Being poor college students in the mid1950s, the club members there too would bicycle together to the Wisconsin Dells area of southern Wisconsin.

After all this moving around, Allison set up residence in Portland and was able to go on an Acquaintance Climb with the Mazamas in 1953, led by Jack Grauer. She joined our organization in 1954. Allison followed the classic Mazama path through Basic and Intermediate climbing schools and in 1957 was made a full climb leader. She taught independent rock climbing classes for all comers at Rocky Butte for several years and climbed the prominent points of the Gorge—Rooster Rock, Beacon Rock, Crown Point, and Pillars of Hercules. She bicycled to many of these climbs as well.

Also in 1957, she participated in the first all-in-one-day ascent of St. Peter’s Dome with Tom Gibbons and Dave Nelson—all in one day for Allison because she was to be the Maid of Honor at a wedding in Eugene the next day.

In the late 1950s, Allison got wind of the climbing possibilities in Horsethief Butte, which had been discovered by Jack Grauer.

Over the course of a few years, Allison pioneered many of the routes at Horsethief and became a pied piper of sorts for scores of young people who followed her lead to explore rock climbing.

These efforts of hers have led to a decades-long relationship between the Mazamas and Horsethief and influenced hundreds of students in the Mazama schools.

An accident on Mt. Hood in 1962 led Allison’s life in an unexpected direction. She was hiking up from Cloud Cap on a September day when alarmed climbers appeared and asked her to come help with a rescue. A group of Reed College students had gotten in way over their heads. Primarily novices, they had successfully ascended the Sunshine Route and questionably decided to descend via Cooper Spur. One student lost control while glissading and slid 1,000 feet and into a crevasse. Allison ventured onto the Eliot Glacier by herself to aid the fallen climber and helped get the other students to safety.

Word got back to the college, and Reed decided for safety’s sake it should establish a program of formal mountaineering instruction. On the basis of her performance in the rescue and her reputation, Allison was chosen to head the program. She designed and implemented a curriculum, and the program was up and running a mere six weeks after the accident. Allison ran the

program for two years, then handed it off to George Cummings, a long-time Mazama and current climb leader.

Allison continued to move up through the ranks of the Mazamas and landed a spot on the Climbing Committee in the early 1960s. In 1962 she was nominated to be the first woman head of the committee. There was fierce opposition within the committee. One of her champions was Erwin Reiger, and with his support, Allison made Mazama history. In his chronicle of the first 75 years of the Mazamas, We Climb High, John D. Scott characterized her performance as follows: “To the great astonishment of many members who could not imagine a woman holding such a position, she turned out to be one of the best.”

By then Allison had met and married Bob Belcher, one of her Mazama Basic School students, and they decided to take a trip around the world before starting a family. During her brief but illustrious climbing career, Allison participated in first ascents of routes on Mt. Washington in Oregon and a route in the Tetons on a Mazama outing. She and Bob had their first child in 1966. Although Allison continued to climb thereafter, she had very strong feelings about doing something as inherently dangerous as climbing when she had a family. A dicey situation on the Sunshine route of Mt. Hood in 1973 with Charlie Jensen, she says, sent the clear message that her climbing days should be over. Her last Mazama climb was that of Plummer Peak in 1993, led by Vera Dafoe.

Editor’s note: this obit was abridged from an article on Allison from the October 2013 Mazama Bulletin, page 26.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 33

SAYING GOODBYE CONT. C. MARLIN ICENOGLE JULY 30, 1935–OCTOBER 20, 2023

Marlin was born in Marietta, Ohio in 1935 to Clarence and Mildred Icenogle. He graduated from The Ohio State University in 1957, and would remain one of the most loyal lifelong fans of his beloved Buckeyes. Marlin married Nancy Marti in 1961, and together they raised three daughters. He served as a Lieutenant in the U.S. Navy. In 1964 he joined the J.M. Smucker Company. He was transferred to Oregon, where he eventually became the head of Northwest Operations until his retirement.

Marlin joined the Mazamas in 1968, joined by Nancy the following year. Between then and 1974 they were awarded in tandem each of the Mazama climbing awards. By that time they had become another of the organization’s power couple climbing partnerships. In the next seven years, Marlin led 16 Mazama climbs, along with 15 assistant leads. Many times the Icenogles

THOMAS DINSMORE SEPTEMBER 15, 1930–AUGUST 19, 2023

Tom Dinsmore climbed Mt. Hood on a Mazama Acquaintance Climb in 1947, at the age of 17. In 1970, he joined up for good.

Under the tutelage of Ken Winters, Ed McAnich, and Vera Dafoe, he collected the Guardian Peaks, Oregon Cascades, and 16 Northwest Peaks awards in just four seasons. By 1975 he was ready to become a full-fledged climb leader. He led from then until 1981, racking up 12 leads and 26 assistant leads before those dates and long after.

He also went on some significant Mazama outings, most notably to the European Alps in 1976, the Wind River Range in Wyoming in 1977, the Tetons in 1980, Switzerland in 1991, and a Round the Mountain (RTM) in 1999.

Especially notable was his leadership on The Monch in Switzerland in 1976. This was the first international climb in Mazama history on which the party chose not to hire local guides but rather rely on their own level of expertise. In the Tetons, he assisted on an unsuccessful attempt on the Grand Teton, but later led a summit of Symmetry Spire, an accomplishment in and of itself. On a more whimsical note, the account of the 1991 Swiss Outing mentions that Tom’s fluency in German was invaluable.

The RTM in 1999 featured shuttles back to the Mazama Lodge each night and became the template for RTMs in years to come.

As Tom’s climbing career wound down, other significant contributions to the Mazamas came to the fore. In 2001 he was presented with a certificate of appreciation by the council for his skills in maintenance and repair at the organization’s clubrooms on NW 19th. These skills came into full blossom just

CANDY MORGAN APRIL 9, 1942–DECEMBER 16, 2023

A full obit for Candy Morgan will run in the Mar/Apr Mazama Bulletin. The Celebration of Life for Candy will be on Sunday, February 18, 2024, 2–5 p.m., at the Willamette View Retirement Community, 12705 SE River Road, Portland. Buffet available beginning at 2 p.m., program begins at 3 p.m.

34 MAZAMAS

supported each other in their leads. In 1975 Marlin was elected to the Executive Council and served as Mazama president in the 1977–78 fiscal year.

The Icenogles retired to Sunriver, Oregon, Their home there was a haven where they skied in the winter, biked in the summer, and spent time with friends and family.

Marlin is survived by his wife Nancy, their daughters, and many grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

a few years later when the Mazamas moved into the Mountaineering Center.

With Bob Lockerby and under the guise of “Old Goats Construction,” Tom helped carve space for the library, the archives, and the historical collection, out of the wilderness of the lower level of the building we now inhabit—another example of the amazing volunteer commitment the Mazamas has been gifted.

In both locations, Tom took on the task of overseeing this aspect of the Mazamas by chairing the Library and Historical Collections Committee multiple times between 1999 to 2008. In the process, he met fellow super volunteer Barbara Marquam, and they were married on October 15, 2008.

Tom is survived by his wife, Barbara, five children, eight grandchildren, and five great-grandchildren.

Among the people who were contacted for this obituary there was universal agreement that, in addition to all his other contributions, Tom was a really great guy. That should be testament enough for any of us right there.

A memorial for Tom will be held in the Holman Auditorium at the MMC on Saturday, February 3, 2024, between 2–4 p.m.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS MINUTES

by Acting Board Secretaries

JULY 26, 2023 Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Claire Tenscher, Secretary; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Marty Hanson, Charles Barker, Chris Jaworski, Aimee Filimoehala; not present: Bob Brievogel; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER ■ The meeting was called to order at 6:02 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

BUSINESS AGENDA April, May, and June meeting minutes.

■ Chris made a motion to approve, Charles seconded the motion, motion passes.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT ■ Rebekah updated the board on her activities. She has identified three early objectives: □ assess organizational systems, standing, and culture; □ review and establish baselines for marketing assets; □ dig into financials.

■ Rebekah continues to meet with members and stakeholders. She submitted an application to the M. J. Murdock Trust’s 2024 Board Leadership and Development Program and will be interviewed in August. If accepted, Rebekah and the 2024 board chair would attend this program which would enhance our processes for board governance.

MEMBERSHIP ■ We gained 34 members in June. Brings total to 2,950, which is 473 members ahead of where we were this time last year. Full dues members now make up 50 percent of the membership.

LODGE UPDATE ■ Chris Jaworski reported that the RFQ for management proposal will be released Aug. 1, and there appears to be some early interest. We need a formalized evaluation for the RFQ responses.

Ideally we would have criteria by end of August. Chris also reported that the fire inspection took place.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE ■ Claire reported on the committee’s efforts to establish new governance policies. One highlight is the board needs to better identify themselves among the members. To this end, Rebekah will be ordering buttons for board members to where at Mazama events. The board had a discussion about people who might be interested in running for 2024 board positions.

TREASURER’S REPORT ■ Liz reported May financials were just received today. Nonetheless, financials are catching up and we should be caught up sooner than expected. Liz made a proposal to add a part-time, controllerlevel position to staff as an incremental resource for financial tasks.

■ Liz and Rebekah will put together a proposal which will likely include 10–15 hours a week for six months.

■ Meeting adjourned at 6:54 p.m.

AUGUST 23, 2023 Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Claire Tenscher, Secretary; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Marty Hanson, Charles Barker, Aimee Filimoehala, Bob Brievogel, Chris Jaworski; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER ■ The meeting was called to order at 6 p.m.

by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

BUSINESS REPORTS ■ July meeting minutes—Aimee made a motion to approve, Chris seconded the motion, none abstained, motion passes.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT ■ Rebekah updated the board on her activities including diving into Mazama systems, learning about organizational systems, and generally getting up to speed. Rebekah noted she is making her way through committee chairs, building relationships, and connecting on needs and priorities. Education and Conservation Committees are next up.

EVENTS ■ Rebekah also announced the MMC Open House on Sept. 20. The event will be free for members and an RSVP is requested from board members. Event is to build relationships and create a welcoming environment by meeting members and activity leaders, learning about programs, and discovering ways to get involved.

BASE CAMP EVENING PROGRAMS OCTOBER–MAY OF 2024 ■ A series of free mission-related lectures, workshops, presentations, films, etc.

Gina is seeking sponsors and some events may be ticketed. Board members should request sponsor packet from Rebekah. Sponsor range of $500–$2,500.

Fundraising goa: $10k. March 2024 consideration of adding outdoor activity to Base Camp program. Additional sponsorships will be needed to meet goals. Consider drag queen Pattie Gonia—nonprofit mission to address exclusion and create safe access to the outdoors for underrepresented and marginalized communities.

FACILITIES ■ Heating and cooling project at MMC is underway—installation of multizone heating and cooling systems in auditorium, basement, library, archives, and objects room. Two-thirds of cost covered by restricted funds secured in 2021.

■ Water bottle refilling station to be installed on main level of MMC. Rick and Jeff picking up where project last left off.

FINANCIAL ■ Rebekah recognized Liz’s contributions to getting her up to speed on the organization’s financial picture and systems. Fractional CFO screening and interviews underway. Scope would include approx. five hours per week and would be covered by budgeted vacant development FTE. MEMBERSHIP UPDATE ■ Rebekah shared that we are now up to 3,000 members!

continued on next page JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 35

Minutes, continued from previous page MEMBERSHIP RATE UPDATE ■ Goal is to balance increases with member needs. We are focused on renewals and lost members. Member campaign will be announced Sept. 15 on Mazama website with member drive kick-off to begin Sept. 18.

■ Rebekah emphasized the need to increase funds from membership while adding additional revenue streams.

Would like to balance funding weight currently on programs. A 50/50 funding goal with member programs representing half of the streams will take a few years to achieve.

■ Rebekah looked into the Mountaineers member structure and interpreted that the Mazamas has too many member tiers. Some initial thoughts are to raise rates, consolidate tiers, and conduct a review of discounted rates. Membership dues currently budgeted at $149—$165 K would be ideal. Seventeen percent increase mentioned. For key highlights of member proposal see ED report.

■ Discussion □ Greg raised question of what would be most consistent with bylaws change effort. Would membership go up? Greg also commented on membership increases being part of holistic approach, part of strategic vision. Where we are now, perhaps a compromise, and added later that adopting current increase may restrict efforts in relation to the larger strategic plan while remaining consistent with bylaws change. □ Marty mentioned situation is not necessarily a problem. He later added that the prominent change in bylaws providing for free climbs gives organization ability to justify increase. □ Aimee noted that proposed increase may be too conservative. A missed opportunity given timing. □ David added perhaps there is room for increase by leveraging move to free climbs. Bob agreed. Rebekah brought to light the challenge to this approach is the repeated claims of members that they cannot get 36 MAZAMAS

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on climbs so the value is not there for them with increased dues. Bob indicated there may be ways to make up for this with appropriate communication/messaging.

Claire raised question about the 50 percent threshold for member contributions. Aimee and Greg agreed.

Charles added a consideration to keeping student and youth discounts.

David suggested we delay decision until more information becomes available. Consider waiting to increase dues until next year.

Chris added the nominal increase proposed would be consistent with overall inflationary increases experienced across economy dating back to pandemic. By comparison, proposed increase is small compared to similar experience type purchases.

Rebekah indicated we could hold off a week or so while keeping on deadline tracking with member campaign. Added from experience it’s better to be consistent with nominal increases as opposed to numerous add-ons throughout membership or worse, a bigger more significant increase. Added to this thread was to review the loss of revenue from climb participation being a no-fee activity to determine if member increase as proposed would cover the loss from that change. It’s an above or below the line consideration that should be calculated. FYI veterans and seniors are 50 percent discount.

LODGE UPDATE ■ Roof replacement to begin next Monday, Aug. 28. Project to take approx. two weeks. Fifty percent of the cost due after first week of work. Remaining due upon completion.

■ Greg mentioned we are nearing $10k fundraising goal from the board.

Greg, Kaleen, and Rebekah looking to members for large donations. We’ll need to make up to $50k to cover total cost of replacement. Aimee and Greg heading up donor tour of lodge next week with Chris if needed. If we fail to reach goal

then we’d need to vote on drawing from the investment fund.

TIMBERLINE MEETING RECAP ■ Members of the Mazama leadership team met with representatives from Timberline Lodge to explore ways the two organizations could support one another through sharing of resources and interests to address challenges.

NOMINATING COMMITTEE/BOARD GOVERNANCE ■ Claire seeking to nail down governance policies in Committee Charter followed by election schedule. Consideration to a timeframe that allows for overlap of newly elected board members with that of the outgoing board members. Claire reported on the committee’s efforts to establish new governance policies.

Several Mazama members mentioned as 2024 candidates.

■ Claire indicated dates in December as optimal for new board orientation— prior to start of new year activities and possible new annual board event for February 2024.

■ Aimee asked about number of board members elected versus invited.

■ Chris submitted a board participation survey and Rebekah provided several docs from previous engagement which proved quite insightful to board selfevaluation and overall assessment.

MOUNTAIN EDUCATION ALLANCE UPDATE ■ Greg pointed out how the Mazamas are setting national standards in areas such as single pitch instruction. MEA audits Sept. 8–10 requiring Mazama representation. MEA’s Summit will host day sessions Oct. 17 which will include review of audits. Mazamas to become certifying body and is a great opportunity for executive director’s attendance.

PEAK RECOVERY UPDATE ■ Rebekah held a productive meeting with Allie looking at partnership and leadership development. Working on an initial agreement around use of space and facilities. There is growing interest in the leadership development piece—path from Peak Recovery program to Mazama leadership roles.

PUBLIC COMMENTS ■ None ■ Meeting adjourned at 7:30 p.m.

SEPTEMBER 27, 2023 Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Claire Tenscher, Secretary; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Bob Breivogel, Marty Hanson, Charles Barker, Aimee Filimoehala, Chris Jaworski; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER ■ The meeting was called to order at 6:10 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

BUSINESS REPORTS ■ Minutes □ The minutes for August 2023 should be approved with the following edits: ■ Remove the name of the potential board member.

■ Amy was in person.

■ Liz was not present.

■ Motion to approve with the above edits: Chris Jaworski, seconded by Aimee Filimoehala. Liz Crowe abstained due to absence during the August meeting. All others in favor. Motion passes.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR UPDATE ■ Membership renewal campaign is going well, we’re about a week in; we believe open house brought in new members.

■ Rebekah at three-month mark!

■ In the months ahead: prepare for a deeper, more meaningful conversation about fundraising, the staff we could use (development, member management, communications, office management, all could use more staff time), and more board member engagement in fundraising.

■ FYI: We are using Development Director dollars for the CFO consultant because it’s critical for large donors that we can be transparent about our books ■ Liz: One of the things we could do now is make members more comfortable with the idea of more staff. Can we promote the work staff do or highlight the work they don’t have capacity for?

■ Conversations ongoing about staffing the MMC with volunteers who can engage

with phone calls and people coming in the door.

LODGE UPDATE ■ Lodge Committee approved a Request for Proposal.

■ No proposals have been submitted.

■ The lodge is in an unusual location, it is a different way of engaging with customers, nonprofit vs for-profit.

■ With this disappointing result from plan A, Rebekah has set up a meeting next week with the Lodge Committee to see if we can run the lodge the way we did last year (volunteer run).

■ Is there a way to open the lodge more robustly? Concessionaire, staff member, or another way of profitability running the lodge under our banner.

■ To our knowledge the Appalachian Trail Club and the Mountaineers have volunteer-run lodges.

■ We have a meeting with Timberline to talk about maintenance on the lodge.

■ Members want to know what is happening, and are ready to help.

■ It does take a significant part of Rebekah’s time.

BOARD RECRUITMENT ■ Will send out proposed charter.

■ Remove the perception of the election as popularity contest, use parameters.

■ No priority from the board to have a contested election.

■ Use a rubric in candidate selection, share the process with the executive director— for example meeting for coffee or lunch.

■ Rebekah should have input into selection criteria.

■ Claire will send survey to board, please reply within a week.

■ Rebekah, Claire, and Greg to meet and discuss calendar (need annual meeting to finalize election dates), cannot have orientation in December because board members must be elected first.

■ Current committee is Greg, Chris, and Claire.

■ Committee to contact the proposed members from the other committees.

■ Committee to meet.

■ Committee to talk to prospective candidates.

■ Board member profiles: Greg, Aimee, and David volunteer for an email feature with election info (Claire to send email).

■ January financial report/financial close period TBD. ■ Will look to past examples about how to prepare the report.

NOVEMBER MEETING SCHEDULE ■ Move to November 15 to avoid Thanksgiving travel.

■ Meeting adjourned at 7:10 p.m.

OCTOBER, 25, 2023 Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Claire Tenscher, Secretary; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Bob Breivogel, Marty Hanson, Aimee Filimoehala, Chris Jaworski; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER ■ The meeting was called to order at 6:05 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

BUSINESS REPORTS ■ September minutes: Claire Tenscher moved to approve the September minutes, Chris Jaworski seconded. All in favor. Motion passes.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT ■ Acknowledgment that we’re all carrying a lot, appreciation that we are still bringing our attention to this organization.

■ Membership drive is on track.

TREASURER’S REPORT ■ October cash gap due to income timing.

■ Recommend a draw of $25,000 from the investment account operating reserve to bridge us to December when we expect to see income from winter courses, membership, and upcoming programs.

■ It is yet to be determined if this is a temporary cash draw or permanent; if temporary, we may be able to repay this in Q1 or Q2 2024. Our Investment Policy Statement states that we should have an earmark of six months of operating cash in the investment account reserved to cover situations like this.

■ Gathered feedback on the Treasurer’s Report: Liz will build in further historical

continued on next page JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 37

Minutes, continued from previous page lookback for the net assets available for operations chart. Rebekah and Liz are developing a topline budget vs actual variance report—to take a deeper look at significant variances in budget assumptions.

■ Expenses came in on budget, our problem is revenue.

■ We’re performing better than last year.

■ We’re filing for our nonprofit exemption for property taxes now, it was due April 1 so we must pay a late fee, but that should mean we don’t have to pay the high tax bill that just came in.

LODGE REPORT ■ We formed a Lodge Advisory Committee April 2023.

■ Lodge has largely been closed since the pandemic. The 2022 caretaker burned out, this model doesn’t seem sustainable.

We did use a trained-volunteer model to allow the lodge to stay open for some classes this year. Volunteers are inconsistent and expose the organization to risk.

■ Roof needs repair.

■ We had a long-term visioning session, we’ve been talking with Timberline, our lodge gives us opportunities for income, positive social change, and community support.

■ Our RFP didn’t get many responses but one individual did put forth a proposal.

■ The proposal covers: staff, management, hospitality, vendor management, financial, risk management, security.

■ Another option is: could an internal staff member do this job ■ Board would still have oversight to set room and bunk rates to ensure organizational alignment.

■ Interest from board in incentivizing the contractor to fill occupancy through the contract.

■ Health and safety compliance relating to facility maintenance and available personnel are the main barriers that could prevent the lodge from opening quickly.

■ No one on board had objections to moving forward with the individual’s proposal.

38 MAZAMAS

BOARD RECRUITMENT ■ Seven people responded to survey.

■ Committee: Greg, Claire, Chris, and key committee leads.

■ Discuss survey, draft call for help, and send email blast to members.

■ January election, Annual Meeting is January 18, 2024.

■ Board orientation shortly after that.

■ Bob, Aimee, and Chris’ terms are ending. □ Chris expressed interest in running again. □ Bob and Aimee are ready to roll off for now.

MEA SUMMIT ■ UIAA is reviewing the U.S. proposal at the global conference this week.

If the U.S. passes we can call some of our educators certified. Getting these first standards approved is a huge accomplishment.

■ This will be an incentive for our volunteers and raise the caliber of our classes. Can we offer trainings to other organizations?

■ We can work on other standards for example trekking! Three years away.

■ Each of our organizations would be providers under the AAC umbrella.

AAC is a member of the UIAA. The AAC checks in with us and the other providers to ensure the standards are being consistently applied. Each organization has been contributing $4,000 or $5,000 per year to this effort. In the future, we can renegotiate to it being more of a licensing fee. This can be a revenue generator.

■ This is an opportunity to create a different leadership level for the Mazamas. Could this make more educators in the Mazamas who will teach BCEP, and have climb leaders focus on leading climbs?

■ Meeting adjourned at 7:40 p.m.

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Heather Polonsky on the s0ummit of Broken Top, October 2, 2022.

40 MAZAMAS