2025 Jan/Feb Mazama Bulletin

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM

MAZAMA BULLETIN

IN THIS ISSUE CONTENTS

FEATURES

2024 Mazama Volunteer

Appreciation Event, p. 12

Mazama Service Awards, p. 14

Mazama Nordic Ski School, p. 16

Mazama Steep Snow & Ice, p. 17

Early Skiing in Oregon, p. 18

Know Before You Go, p. 21

Take Care of Your Gear

So it Takes Care of You, p. 22

How to Tune Your Boards, p. 25

Into the Winter Garden, p. 27

Climbing Mt. Hood in Winter, p. 32

That’s the Way the Ice Crumbles, p. 34

Steens Mountain Nordic Backpack: Skiing on Top of the World, p. 36

COLUMNS

Executive Director’s Message, p. 4

President’s Message, p. 6

Letter from the Editors, p. 8

Successful Climbers, p. 8

Mazama Base Camp 2025 Programs, p. 9

Upcoming Courses, Activities & Events, p. 10

New Members, p. 10

Mazama Classics, p. 11

Board of Directors Minutes, p. 38

This was the first recorded ski trip to the north side of Mt. Hood and the earliest reference to skiing ...in the Cascades between Mt. Hood and the Canadian border.” p. 18

But hidden underneath all that beauty can sometimes be what many in the industry often call a “dragon”— avalanches.” p. 21

The terrain can be otherworldly. After a few highwind, moistureladen storms, the mountain becomes a modernist sculpture park.” p. 27

One foul swing of the tool. A loud CRAAAACK— and then silence for a moment as everything slipped away, like a curtain released from its hangers crumpling towards the floor.” p. 34

Volume 107 Number 1

January/February 2025

Cover: Nordic ski class enjoys a tour across Trillium Lake.

Photo: Jen Travers.

Right: Ali Gray enjoying fresh snow and a bluebird day near Illumination Saddle.

Photo: Andy Veenstra.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S MESSAGE

by Rebekah Phillips, Mazama Executive Director

Happy New Year! It’s a pleasure to welcome so many new members to the Mazamas, and to greet those returning for another season of climbing, hiking, outdoor education, climate action, and community. By all accounts, 2025 promises to be an adventurefilled year—and, true to our spirit, we’re embarking on it with a clear, purposeful plan.

Reflecting on 2024

The past year was one of foundationbuilding. I spent much of my first full year as Executive Director in observation mode, focusing on understanding our systems, structures, processes, and people. This allowed me to gain a deeper understanding of the organizational culture of the Mazamas, as well as it’s strengths and challenges. At the same time, the Board of Directors and I received invaluable training through the M.J. Murdock Foundation, helping us create a solid framework for a rolling three-year strategic plan. This work resulted in a refined mission statement, a new vision, updated core values, and clearly defined priorities.

This effort, which took months to complete, will have a profound impact on our future. Thanks to the Murdock Board Leadership and Development program, we had the benefit of a seasoned board coach who guided us through best practices in nonprofit governance. With this support, we created a framework for a strategic plan for 2025 and beyond, gathering insights from surveys, resource assessments, and programmatic analysis to ground our decisions in current realities.

Our Strengths and Opportunities

The Mazamas has many assets to build on. We benefit from a strong network, a dedicated membership base, and a legacy that extends far beyond Portland. Our engaged volunteer force, an active board of directors, and two well-established

facilities are key strengths. We also have a notable mountaineering library, a rich historical collection, and well-established programming and partnerships that position us for growth.

Looking ahead, there’s significant potential for expanding individual giving, broadening our outdoor activities and educational offerings, and engaging with our growing local community. The demand for new courses and increased membership presents an exciting opportunity for deeper engagement. Investments in technology will enhance both mission delivery and the member experience.

Challenges Ahead

However, we face ongoing financial constraints, partly due to rising insurance premiums and the broader financial landscape. More fundamentally, the Mazamas has yet to fully embrace the development of a sustainable business model. Too often, we’ve relied on investments to cover operational gaps instead of building diverse revenue strategies that would prepare us for the future. For us to thrive, we must face this reality and take steps to secure a more stable financial foundation.

Additionally, political shifts, tighter budgets, increasing competition for funding, and the broader challenges posed by climate change, wildfire risks, and overcrowding on trails all complicate our path forward. We’re also navigating a competitive market for both members and volunteers, along with the ongoing need to modernize IT infrastructure and facility management.

Looking to 2025

This month, the Board will finalize our five key priority areas, each aligned with our core values. These priorities will serve as the foundation for our Year One objectives, which will be developed into a detailed implementation plan with the input and support of key committee chairs, staff, and volunteers. We’ll keep track of our progress and share updates throughout the year, ensuring that our rolling threeyear plan remains relevant and adaptable to changing conditions.

What we have now, heading into 2025, is a clear vision, a well-informed

“We’ll keep track of our progress and share updates throughout the year, ensuring that our rolling three-year plan remains relevant and adaptable to changing conditions.”

understanding of our current situation, and a strategic direction. As Dwight D. Eisenhower famously said, “Plans are nothing, but planning is everything.”

This resonates deeply for me, as our own process of planning has illuminated our path forward, instilling a sense of agency and hope.

And while hope alone isn’t a strategy, it is the foundation of ours. We are confident that with creativity, curiosity, and bold action, we can turn our vision into reality.

MAZAMA VALUES

INCLUSION

We value every member of our community and foster an open, respectful, and welcoming environment where camaraderie and fun thrive.

SAFETY

We prioritize physical and psychological safety through training, risk management, and sound judgment in all activities.

EDUCATION

We promote learning, skillbuilding, and knowledgesharing to deepen understanding and enjoyment of mountain environments.

SERVICE

We celebrate teamwork and volunteerism, working together to serve our community with expertise and generosity.

SUSTAINABILITY

We champion advocacy and stewardship to protect the mountains and preserve our organization’s legacy.

Whether you are new to the Northwest, a seasoned backcountry traveler, a longtime Portland resident who’s ready to start exploring, or somewhere in between, we can connect you to the hiking, climbing, and skiing adventures you seek.

■ Climb a mountain

■ Go rock climbing

■ Hike or backpack

■ Backcountry ski or snowshoe

■ Discover canyoneering

■ Meet interesting people

■ Learn new outdoor skills

■ Check out our library

■ Stay at our mountain lodge

■ See a presentation

■ Discover new places

■ Trek in a foreign country

■ Join an outing or expedition

■ Fix a trail

■ ... and so much more!

CONTACT US

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR, 97215

Phone: 503-227-2345

Email: help@mazamas.org

Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 10:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

Mazama Lodge

30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR 97028

Hours: Closed

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Mathew Brock, Bulletin Editor (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Members: Darrin Gunkel, chair; Peter Boag, David Bumpers, Theo Cantalupo, Aimee Frazier, Ali Gray, Brian Hague, Owen Lazur, Ryan Reed, Michele Scherer Barnett, Jen Travers. (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA STAFF

MATHEW BROCK

Library & Historical Collections Manager Mazama Bulletin Editor mathew@mazamas.org

RICK CRAYCRAFT Facilities Manager facilities@mazamas.org

REBEKAH PHILLIPS Executive Director rebekahphillips@mazamas.org

BRENDAN SCANLAN Operations & IT Manager brendanscanlan@mazamas.org

LENA TONEY Development Director lenatoney@mazamas.org

CATHY WILDE

Finance & Administration Manager cathywilde@mazamas.org

For additional contact information, including committees and board email addresses, go to mazamas.org/ contactinformation.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org.

The Mazama Bulletin is currently published bi-monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

by Debbie Dwelle, Mazama President

Greetings to this incredible community!

I’d like to introduce myself and provide a little background for those of you who do not yet know me. My name is Debbie Dwelle and my pronouns are she/her. I joined the Mazamas in 2015 and took BCEP in 2016, which absolutely hooked me! I followed that with ICS and Advanced Rock, and became a climb leader in 2022 and a Mountain LEAD Certified Mentor in 2023. My husband and I currently co-lead the LGBTQ+ BCEP team. I joined the Board in January 2024 and have enjoyed this new role while learning a tremendous amount. I am honored to have been voted into the Board President role for 2025. The Mazamas is an organization I am quite passionate about and serving on the Board has offered me an opportunity to support and guide the organization in a new, important, and exciting way!

I want to start by saying a heartfelt THANK YOU to our outgoing Board President, Greg Scott. Greg has been a tremendous leader throughout his tenure on the board and has helped guide the organization in some critical areas. He has also been a mentor for me for the past year as I’ve immersed myself into my role as a Mazama board member. I have been reflecting on Greg’s comments in his last President’s Message about the promise of the Mazamas. As we look to the future, one of my overarching goals will be to honor this promise as we continue to collectively move the organization forward.

The Board and Rebekah recently had a full-day retreat focused on strategic planning for the organization. Some people have asked me, “Why is strategic

planning important?” One way to think about it is that strategic planning is like plotting a route to the summit. Just as a mountaineer needs to choose the safest, most efficient route to reach the summit, a mountaineering organization needs to chart a course to achieve its long-term goals. Without planning, climbers may get lost, run into dangerous obstacles, or waste resources. Similarly, a lack of strategic planning in an organization can lead to aimlessness, inefficiency, and risk.

If you recall, we sent out a member survey earlier this year. The information gathered from you helped us better understand what’s most important to you as members and volunteers, and guided our thinking throughout this entire process. At the end of the retreat, the Board established a framework for a new threeyear rolling strategic plan. We focused on the organization’s mission, vision, values, and priorities.

For the mission statement, our goal was to more clearly articulate what is at the heart of the organization; what is it we do and how do we do it? While we loved our current mission statement, we felt it didn’t quite capture the community aspect that is truly the heart of the Mazamas. That’s all of you! So we modified the statement slightly from “To inspire everyone to love and protect the mountains” to “To build a community that inspires everyone to love and protect the mountains.”

As we contemplated our vision, we asked ourselves “What does successfully meeting our mission look like?” Through brainstorming and discussion, we came up with the following vision statement: “We envision a vibrant, inclusive community united by a shared love for the mountains, advocating passionately for their exploration and preservation. Through education, collaboration, and service, we aim to create a future guided by a spirit of adventure, respect for the natural world, and a collective commitment to safeguarding mountain environments for generations to come.”

As we considered the organization’s values, we wanted to honor the current identified values and also recognize what the founders envisioned for the organization. Our goal was to streamline, modernize, and consolidate where possible

“I look forward to being in a leadership role on the Board in the coming year and to getting to know many of you better through this process. You are the absolute heart of this organization!”

to strengthen focus areas. Through this process, we landed on five core values:

■ Inclusion: We value every member of our community and foster an open, respectful, and welcoming environment where camaraderie and fun thrive.

■ Safety: We prioritize physical and psychological safety through training, risk management, and sound judgment in all activities.

■ Education: We promote learning, skillbuilding, and knowledge-sharing to deepen understanding and enjoyment of mountain environments.

■ Service: We celebrate teamwork and volunteerism, working together to serve our community with expertise and generosity.

■ Sustainability: We champion advocacy and stewardship to protect the mountains and preserve our organization’s legacy.

The next step was to identify the organization’s priorities for the next three years. Through the process of understanding current pain points, reviewing member survey data, brainstorming, and healthy debates,

we identified the following five areas as priorities to focus on:

■ Establishing a sustainable revenue model.

■ Developing and strengthening member and volunteer pipelines.

■ Auditing and updating our program offerings.

■ Optimizing our facilities.

■ Further developing our board and governance structure.

As far as next steps, we will be engaging in another full-day meeting in late January to continue the strategic planning process, which will involve identifying in more concrete, measurable detail what success looks like in each of these five priority areas. It is important to note that key volunteers will play an important role in helping us develop and achieve our goals. We can’t do this without you! Our current goal is to finalize phase one of the broader strategic plan and communicate this out to the membership by the end of the first quarter of next year. We are excited about the process and believe that having an updated and evolving strategic plan in

place will help focus and guide the success of the organization now and in the future. We want to reach the summit!

I look forward to being in a leadership role on the Board in the coming year and to getting to know many of you better through this process. You are the absolute heart of this organization! There really aren’t enough words to thank you for all you do to make the Mazamas such a wonderful community to be a part of. I know my life has been forever changed for the better because of the Mazamas. I hope yours has too. Let’s keep climbing!

MISSION STATEMENT

“To build a community that inspires everyone to love and protect the mountains.”

VISION STATEMENT

“We envision a vibrant, inclusive community united by a shared love for the mountains, advocating passionately for their exploration and preservation. Through education, collaboration, and service, we aim to create a future guided by a spirit of adventure, respect for the natural world, and a collective commitment to safeguarding mountain environments for generations to come.”

APPLY NOW FOR A MAZAMA GRANT!

The Mazamas has a long history of exploration, research, and conservation.

Since our inception we have stated that one of our primary purposes was "... to explore mountains, to disseminate authoritative and scientific information concerning them, and to encourage the preservation of forests and others features of mountains in their natural beauty.”

This mission of exploration, research, and conservation are now carried out partially through the distribution of grants to qualified individuals and institutions who share these goals.

BOB WILSON EXPEDITION GRANT

The Mazama Bob Wilson Expedition Grant offers significant support to Mazama members undertaking climbing expeditions in remote or high-altitude mountain regions worldwide, honoring Robert A. Wilson’s legacy of exploration.

CONSERVATION GRANTS

The Mazama Conservation Grant Program supports Pacific Northwest mountain and wilderness preservation by awarding annual grants of $500 to $2,500 for environmental protection, trail maintenance, education, and forest conservation initiatives.

RESEARCH GRANTS

The Mazama Research Grant Program provides $750 to $2,500 to support scientific research on mountain environments, covering disciplines such as glaciology, ecology, geology, microbiology, and highaltitude medicine.

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Bulletin Editor, and Ali Gray, Content Editor

The first hints of winter have arrived. Most mornings, frost etches patterns across our windshields and the meteorologists’ predictions of a La Niña winter have our entire community abuzz with anticipation. Will this be the snow year we’ve all been waiting for? The Publications Committee and I are excited to present our Winter Adventures-themed issue of the Mazama Bulletin, a celebration of the season’s raw beauty and the adventurous folks who embrace the cold to play on fields of snow.

Our journey begins with a look at the early history of skiing by renowned Northwest ski historian Lowell Skoog (p. 18). His exploration of early skiing will take you back to the pioneering days when adventurers first carved tracks through our state’s winter landscapes.

Following Lowell’s historical insights, content editor Ali Gray delivers a comprehensive guide to staying informed (p. 21) and tuning up your gear so you’re ready to hit the slopes (p. 22).

Mazama Climb Leader Ryan Reed then invites you to explore Mt. Hood’s Winter Garden in a stunning photo essay that captures our home mountain’s many moods and challenges (p. 27). His accompanying guide to climbing Mt. Hood in the winter is a must read for anyone contemplating a winter ascent (p. 32).

The issue then takes a pulse-quickening turn with Nathan Herzog’s harrowing account of an ice climbing trip gone sideways (p. 34). His account of an ice column collapse is a poignant reminder of

BOARD OF DIRECTORS ELECTION RESULTS

ELECTED TO THE BOARD:

With 704 votes cast the new Board of Directors members are:

■ Chris Kruell

■ Petra LeBaron-Botts

■ Jessica Minifie

2025 BOARD: Officers

■ Debbie Dwelle, President

■ Vice President—to be announced

■ Treasurer—to be announced

■ Secretary—to be announced Members

■ Liz Crowe

■ Debbie Dwelle

■ Marty Hanson

■ Chris Jaworski

■ Chris Kruell

■ Petra LeBaron-Botts

■ Jessica Minifie

■ Matthew Sundling

■ Claire Tenscher

the dangers and unpredictability of winter sports.

Barbara Schulz offers a different perspective, sharing a serene Nordic skiing expedition to the Steens Mountains (p. 36). Her account promises to be a nice counterpoint to Nathan’s—a reminder that winter landscapes offer a variety of experiences.

We conclude with a recap of an important community moment: celebrating our incredible and dedicated Mazama volunteers (p. 12), the honoring of our Service Award recipients (p. 14), and the first president’s report from our newly-elected Mazama President, Debbie Dwelle (p. 6).

We hope this issue serves as a love letter to winter, adventure, and the extraordinary Mazama community that continues to love and protect the mountains.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

Oct 5, 2024–Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Laetitia Pascal, Leader. Mark Creevey, Douglas Filiak, William Kazanis, Michele Scherer Barnett.

Oct 12, 2024–Liberty Bell, Beckey Route. Pushkar Dixit, Leader; Jen Travers, Assistant Leader. Steve Marshall, Omar Najar.

Oct 12, 2024–Santiam Pinnacle South Face. Lisa Ripps, Leader; Michael Quigley, Assistant Leader. Colin Baker, Richard Hall, Michele Scherer Barnett, Nate Zeiler.

MAZAMA BASE CAMP 2025 PROGRAMS

All Base Camp events are from 6:30–8:30 p.m. unless noted otherwise. We encourage pre-registration, but walk-ins are welcome. Visit www. mazamas.org/basecamp to sign up.

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 22: WONDER GOATS

Curious about the Wonderland Trail, Mt. Rainier National Park’s round-themountain trail? Learn about the permit application process, how to plan a trip if successful in the lottery, and how to pack and prepare. Photos from an 11-day, 100-mile backpack in summer 2023 will also be shared. This presentation will be co-presented by two of the four “Wonder Goats:” Lisa Takach and Mazama Hike and Climb Leader Bill Stein.

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 26: BACKCOUNTRY FILM FESTIVAL

Presented by Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Backcountry Film Festival celebrates the power and spirit of humans in winter. Adventure, travel, ski culture, pain, suffering, laughter, and DEEP POWDER!—you’ll find it all in this year’s lineup. Learn more at www. winterwildlands.org/backcountry-filmfestival.

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5: THE ART OF MOUNTAINEERING— LANDSCAPE PAINTERS AND CLIMBING IN THE CASCADE RANGE, 1865–1915

In this engaging presentation, historian Peter Boag explores how 19thcentury artists and illustrators of the Cascade Range were instrumental in inspiring mountaineering, establishing climbing organizations, advancing conservation, and cultivating public appreciation for mountain landscapes.

THURSDAY, MARCH 20: WILD FOOD ADVENTURES— WILD FOODS OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Join author John Kallas for an entertaining slide presentation revealing the region’s hidden culinary treasures. Discover delicious wild foods from forests, meadows, swamps, and coastal landscapes, complete with a short adventure video and Q&A session.

FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7: OREGON HUMANITIES CONVERSATION PROJECT

Join Mareshah “MJ” Jackson, a Portland based communication consultant, for an engaging presentation on safety in outdoor spaces. Explore how identity, perception, and personal experience shape our connection to parks, trails, and public areas in a post-pandemic world. Limited to 30 participants.

FRIDAY, APRIL 25: BLUE MOUNTAINS TRAIL

Join a Hells Canyon Council representative to explore the Blue Mountains Trail. This immersive adventure reveals the diverse eco-regions of northeast Oregon, taking you through mountains, forests, rivers, canyons, and local communities. Experience the living history and understand why this area deserves expanded protection.

UPCOMING COURSES, ACTIVITIES & EVENTS NEW MEMBERS

BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP) INFO NIGHT

Date: Wednesday, January 8

Time: 7 p.m.

Cost: Free

Location: Zoom

Are you looking to gain new skills and confidence in the outdoors? Our eightweek Basic Climbing Education Program teaches the rock and snow skills needed to climb snow-covered peaks, rock climb, and make safety decisions on outdoor trips.

Taught by experienced Mazama leaders, you’ll be part of an alpine climbing team and introduced to a future of outdoor opportunities with the Mazamas and beyond!

Join our virtual info night on January 8, 2025, to learn more about the program and the application process. Find more information at www.mazamas.org/bcep.

STEEP SNOW & ICE 2025

Dates: August 5–20, with field sessions August 16–17 and August 23–24 Info night: mid-May 2025 (watch weekly eNews for date/time)

Application dates: June 1–21

Notification of acceptance: July 4

Are you interested in climbs like Mt. Hood’s Reid Headwall, the Adams Glacier, and the Kautz route on Mt. Rainier? The Steep Snow & Ice skill-builder is designed for early intermediate alpine climbers who want to start building the skills necessary to tackle routes like these. SSI occurs every August with several evening sessions at the Mazama Mountaineering Center to discuss the unique risks and hazards of winter climbing and to practice ice screws and vertical ice movement. This is followed by a weekend field session putting our new techniques into practice on steep snow and icy seracs on Mt. Hood’s Elliott Glacier. Students will multi-pitch climb ice slopes, practice building anchors and rappelling, and mock lead on the steeper stuff. Prerequisites are graduating from ICS or having similar climbing experience, as well as having done some post-ICS climbing on snow and ice.

STOP THE BLEED TRAINING

Date: Thursday, February 6, 2025

Registration opens: Wednesday, January 1, 2025

Time: 6–10 p.m.

Cost: $55

Location: MMC Holman Auditorium

Why Learn?

A bleeding injury can happen anywhere. We’ve all seen it happen too often, in the news or in everyday life. Life-threatening bleeding can happen in people injured in serious accidents or disasters. Instead of being a witness, you can become an immediate responder because you know how to STOP THE BLEED®.

What You’ll Gain from the Course:

The person next to a bleeding victim may very well be the one who’s most likely to save them from bleeding to death. By learning how to STOP THE BLEED®, you’ll gain the ability to recognize life-threatening bleeding and act quickly and effectively to control bleeding once you learn three quick techniques. Take the STOP THE BLEED® training course and become empowered to make a life-or-death difference when a bleeding emergency happens.

How We Teach this Course:

There will be a formal presentation at the MMC Holman Auditorium followed by hands-on practice of applying direct pressure, packing a wound, and using a tourniquet to stop bleeding. With three quick actions, you can be trained to save a life. The number one cause of preventable death after injury is bleeding. The course fee includes a personal tourniquet.

Between October 1, 2024, and November 30, 2024, the Mazamas welcomed 89 new members. Please join us in welcoming them to our community!

Mellissa Ahern

Tara Atkinson

Joe Augustine

Robert Baker

Dan Banke

Spencer Barrett

Jim Bocci

Richard Burt

Tommy Cardwell

Molly Carlson

Caleb Carter

Mustafa Cavus

Monica Chen

Kelly Clark

Aiden Conrad

Katie Cox

Trey Craig

Lisa Creamer

Faye Dahuyag

Elizabeth Dancy

Brian Davis

John DeBarro

Nicole DeFever

John Dendiuk

Phil Evans

Alex Fishler

Sarah Gale

Liz Galler

Kat Gerrish

Tippin Harkins

Jan Hayden

Kaden Horvath

Kelly Hovland

Connor Huck

Gary Iskra

Gene Johnson

Sharon Jones

Jackson Jones

Sean Knight

Mike Krueger

Kira LeMat

Zimu Li

Kevin Lindgren

Tamra MacLachlan

Stephen Maher

Casey McCreary

William McCreight

Anthony Miller

James Minola

Ryan Morrow

Jacob Morse

Dawn Murai

Jennifer Oechsner

Nicole Ostertag

Soleil Pacetti

Margaret Palardy

Patricia Polen

Robin Pope

Nathan Potter

Carolyn Quinn

Nicette Quintero

Floortje Rawee

Amanda Readman

Kylie Rogers

Mark Schoen

Jason Scott

Saju Sebastian

Jerry Sellers

Diana Sellers

Kyle Sharf

John Shown

Nathan Smith

Oleg Sofrygin

Nicholas Steele

Danny Sullivan

James Tiedemann

Dylan Trathen

Karen Vernier

Angela Vinton

Mike Warmack

Anne Warner

Steven Wearne

Ethan Woodhouse

Maxim Young

Zachary Zurflu

MAZAMA CLASSICS

For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of yearround activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS

Contact the Classics Committee Chair, Gordon Fulks, at classics@mazamas.org.

SUPPORT THE CLASSICS

The Classics Committee needs a volunteer to put more content in our column on a quarterly basis. We want to document past Classics events and make sure that our postings to the web are current and complete. More generally, there is always work to be done on the committee.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETINGS

Our meetings are on the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. on Zoom. Email classics@mazamas.org for link information.

CLASSICS HOLIDAY POTLUCK

At their annual December Holiday Potluck, the Classics Committee recognized those individuals who have been Mazama members for 25, 50, 60, and 70 years.

25-Year Members

John Bartholomew

Kipp Bajaj

Andrew Bodien

Jason Breaker

Jeremy Buck

Lisa Burton

Ken Carraro

Kathleen Cochran

Andrea Cohen

Kevin Clark

Preston Corless

Chris Cosgriff

Gisela Davisson

Tyler Deke

Tom Deroo

Sharon Detrick Ross

Anthony Ferroggiaro

Greg Froman

Ann Griffin

Leora Gregory

Chris Hamilton

Craig Hill

Julia Jordan

Richard Margosian

Mark Merkens

Bill McLoughlin

Bronson Potter

Ken Searl

Ron Sikes

Virginia Sliman

Burke Stoll

Eric Stouck

Karen Vernier

George Vriese

Craig Watson

E. Linda Wenning

Beth Westbrook

Brian Whitten

Alice Winczer

Susan Vogt

50-Year Members

Dave Ankrom

Dan Chamness

Alan Charlesworth

Lynn Dingler

Craig Henry

Charles Hersh

Wayne Kollas

Randolph Nolan

Dennis Phillips

Cindy Pickens

John Polos

Marie Quarles

Margaret Rockwood

Paul Steger

Roger Swick

Dick Weisbaum

60-Year Members

Eric Burbano

Jon Dickinson

Chuck Edgar

Wolf Fahrenbach

Ted Haller

Gregg Hoffman

Marshall Hill-Tanquist

Carol Hult

Kathleen Hersh

Greg Leo

Donald Lange

Mal McAninch

Thomas McCormack

Michael Poust

Frances Prouse

Richard Shook

Allison Smith

Lawrence Stadler

William Wells

William West

Barry Wright

70-Year Members

Janice Clay

Caroline Yo

Ernest Goble ung

2024 MAZAMA VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION EVENT

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Bulletin Editor

On December 5, 2024, more than 150 Mazamas gathered at Nordic Northwest to celebrate the organization’s many volunteers. Members mingled and visited with friends new and old while enjoying an array of appetizers and drinks while enjoying a slideshow of membersubmitted images from the past year.

Opening the program, Executive Director Rebekah Phillips thanked our

volunteers, who this year reached about 15,000 people throughout the region through 326 hikes, 122 climbs, 284 rambles, and our education programs.

During the formal presentation, the assembled members heard from outgoing Mazama President Greg Scott, who also announced this year’s service awards before sharing the results of the 2025 Board of Directors election. The presentation ended with an address from the incoming Mazama President-elect Debbie Dwelle. Debbie shared the outcomes of the recent Board retreat, including revised mission, vision, and values statements, (see p. 6) and gave a preview of the soon-to-becompleted three-year strategic plan. The event was made possible by a bequest from the estate of Yun Long Ong.

Above: Mazamas gather at the 2024 Volunteer Appreciation Event held at Nordic Northwest, December 5, 2024.

Photo: Bill Bowling.

Photos from the 2024 Mazama Volunteer Appreciation Event held at Nordic Northwest, December 5, 2024.

Photos: Cathy Wilde, Lena Toney, and Rebekah Phillips.

MAZAMA SERVICE AWARDS

HONORARY MEMBER

BOB SALLINGER (1967–2024)

The provision for honorary membership was included in the Constitution of the Mazamas written in 1894. The honorary membership may be bestowed upon “persons who have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas, or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than 10 years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research, or outdoor activities.”

Bob Sallinger’s three-decade career, first at Bird Alliance of Oregon and later with Willamette Riverkeepers, represents a transformative journey in wildlife and habitat conservation.

His innovative programs, including Living with Wildlife, reshaped urban conservation efforts. Sallinger’s work spanned from personally banding falcons to negotiating landmark environmental protections like the Private Forest Accords, which safeguarded over 10 million acres. Balancing an extraordinary work ethic with legal studies and family life, he became a cornerstone of Oregon’s environmental movement, consistently pursuing systemic change through collaboration and strategic advocacy. Bob passed away in October of 2024.

ALFRED PARKER CUP

NED THANHOUSER

The Parker Cup was established in October 1925 at the annual meeting by then-outgoing Mazama President, Alfred Parker. This award, viewed by many as the organization’s most prestigious award, was established to recognize those members who have distinguished themselves by hard work, ability, and self-sacrifice for the benefit of the Mazamas.

Duncan, originally from South Carolina, lived in Maryland, Virginia, and Rhode Island before settling in Oregon. He joined the Mazamas in 2009 and is a familiar face there. We’re lucky to have him as a dedicated instructor and the First Aid Committee Chair. A retired professor from Linfield College, Duncan spends much of his time volunteering to teach and oversee first aid courses for the Mazamas. He has played a key role in establishing the Mazama First Aid program as one of the organization’s flagship programs, significantly expanding the variety and frequency of courses offered. Duncan also leads Basic Climbing Education Program teams, participates in many climbs throughout the season, and steps in for other programs like Families Mountaineering 101 when needed.

The Redman Cup was established by Margaret Griffin Redman (a Mazama member for 77 years) on her 105th birthday, when she presented the Mazamas with a silver cup that was “to be awarded to the member who has created a notable work of literature, art, music, or photography devoted to the purposes of the Mazamas.”

Ned, a Mazama member since 1979, is a prominent film preservation expert and documentarian. As president of Thanhouser Company Film Preservation, Inc., he honors his grandparents’ legacy in early cinema. Grandson of Thanhouser Company founders, he has created awardwinning documentaries about silent film history like The Thanhouser Studio and the Birth of American Cinema

In the past decade, Ned has focused on filmmaking for the Mazamas, including the appeal video for this year’s Steps Together Gala and numerous documentaries about Oregon climbing history. His films, often created with collaborator Jeff Thomas, explore the stories and characters of Oregon’s mountaineering community, ranging from Mt. Hood to Rooster Rock.

DUNCAN HART

MARGARET REDMAN CUP

WILLIAM HARDESTY CUP

The William Hardesty Leadership Cup is the annual award presented by the Trail Trips Committee to the Mazama who best exemplifies the spirit of volunteerism and service to the hiking community.

Matt has been a standout contributor to the Mazamas, earning the prestigious Hardesty Cup through his extensive hiking leadership. The award, which recognizes the most active hike leaders based on a comprehensive point system, reflects Matt’s remarkable commitment to the organization. His dedication extends beyond simply accumulating points; he has been a pivotal force in the hiking community, particularly through his work with the Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) hiking group.

As an accomplished author, Matt has further cemented his reputation in outdoor circles by publishing several authoritative hiking guides, including Off the Beaten Track, 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region, PDX Hiking 365, and Extraordinary Oregon. These books not only showcase his deep knowledge of Oregon’s trails but also serve to inspire and guide hikers of all levels.

LONG ONG MENTORSHIP AWARD

ANGIE BROWN

The Yun Long Ong Mentorship Award is granted by the Board of Directors to the Mazama who best exemplifies Long’s spirit of mentorship in the Mazama community through positivity, humility, and humor. Since joining the Advanced Rock Committee, Angie has taken on the demanding role of coordinating field session assistants and served as cochair until recently. Her reliability and innovative approach have transformed the committee’s operations. Angie played a pivotal role in revamping the high-angle rescue curriculum, creating accessible instructional videos, and establishing monthly practice nights, significantly enhancing safety and community engagement. Her mentorship extends beyond curriculum improvements; she connects deeply with students, offering guidance and support to climbers of all levels. Angie’s dedication to diversity in the class and her efforts to mentor new climbers demonstrate her commitment to inclusivity. She has also initiated a Big Wall sskill-builder and sparked engaging discussions through her “anchors in the wild” posts on social media.

MONTAGUE CONSERVATION CUP

RICHARD SANDEFUR

The Montague Conservation Award is named after Richard Ward Montague, an ardent conservationist who served three terms as president of the Mazamas from 1922 to1924. The award, first presented in 1977, is to “recognize and honor individuals who have had a significant and lasting impact upon the community through their efforts in conservation” and in protecting the environment.

Over the past three years, Richard has single-handedly converted the entire Mazama Mountaineering Center to LED lighting. His efforts, often overshadowed by larger projects like solar panels and heating system conversions, have been crucial in our journey toward carbon neutrality.

MATT REEDER

MAZAMA NORDIC SKI SCHOOL

by Nordic Committee

If you’re looking for a new way to get outside this winter, have you considered Nordic skiing? Nordic skiing, also known as cross-country skiing, is an excellent way to experience the quiet beauty of our winter forests, without lift lines or crowds. It’s a great low-impact cardio workout—Nordic skiing can burn upwards of 500 calories per hour! Nordic equipment also costs quite a bit less than downhill or alpine touring, and you can go farther and faster than you can on snowshoes.

If Nordic skiing is new to you, or you’re looking to improve your skills, the Mazama Nordic Ski School teaches 60–70 students each winter. Nordic skiing is easy to learn— if you can walk, you can ski! But it’s also hard to master. There is always something more to learn that can improve your efficiency, speed, and enjoyment. We break up into groups of about eight students per two instructors. Groups are divided by skill level—beginner, novice, intermediate, and backcountry Nordic. Each class meets for three consecutive weekends between MLK

Day and Presidents’ Day. We’ve already filled our classes for winter 2025, but remember us for next year!

If you already know how to Nordic ski, or would like to try on your own, there are many places you can go! Trails are marked with blue diamonds, and are rated green (easy), blue (intermediate), and black (advanced), just like downhill ski runs.

Groomed Nordic skiing options within two hours of Portland:

■ Mt. Hood Meadows Nordic has 9 miles of groomed trails and offers rentals and lessons. Daily pass $24–29, season pass $139. Oregon Sno-Park Pass required. (www.skihood.com/explore/Nordic)

■ Teacup Nordic has 14.9 miles of groomed trails. Daily pass $25, season pass $200. Oregon Sno-Park Pass required. (teacupnordic.org)

■ Oldman Pass, Koshko, McClellan, and Meadows Sno-Parks (north of Carson, WA) have 16 miles of trails, and Pineside Sno-Park (north of Trout Lake, WA) also has 16 miles of trails that are not shared with snowmobiles. The only required fee is a Washington Sno-Park Pass, for $25 daily or $50 annually. These are only groomed once or twice a week and are at a lower elevation, but avoiding the traffic on Mt. Hood can be a nice change! (parks.wa.gov)

If you’d rather break your own trail, or have a dog that would like to tag along, pretty much any Forest Service road with Sno-Park access can be a Nordic ski trail! Trillium Lake, Bennett Pass, White River, and Pocket Creek Sno-Parks are all popular options, and all you need is an Oregon Sno-Park Pass—$4 for one day, $9 for three consecutive days, or $25 annually.

I’d also like to give a shout-out to the Oregon Nordic Club PDX chapter. Many of our Mazama Nordic instructors are also active in this organization. They lead multiple day tours per week, and organize overnight trips to exciting Nordic skiing destinations further afield. Membership is only $30 per year, and you don’t need to be a member to go on day tours. Their website also has a ton of really helpful information about Nordic skiing—what to wear, maps, where to get rentals, and more. (onc-pdx. org)

If you’d like to share your love of Nordic skiing with the Mazama community, you can get involved!

■ If you’re a Mazama hike or climb leader, you can lead a Nordic ski tour.

■ If you’re interested in volunteering as a Nordic instructor or in joining the Nordic Committee to help organize Ski School, please email nordic@mazamas.org.

Above: Andy Veenstra skiing at Mt. Hood Meadows before opening day.

Photo: Ali Gray

MAZAMA STEEP SNOW & ICE

STEEP SNOW & ICE 2025

Dates: August 5–20, with field sessions August 16–17 and August 23–24

Info night: mid-May 2025 (watch weekly eNews for date/time)

Application dates: June 1–21

Notification of acceptance: July 4

Are you interested in climbs like Mt. Hood’s Reid Headwall, the Adams Glacier, and the Kautz route on Mt. Rainier? The Steep Snow and Ice (SSI) skill-builder is designed for early intermediate alpine climbers who want to start building the skills necessary to tackle routes like these. SSI occurs every August with several evening sessions at the Mazama Mountaineering Center to discuss the unique risks and hazards of winter climbing and to practice ice screws and vertical ice movement. This is followed by a weekend field session putting our new techniques into practice on steep snow and icy seracs on Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier. Students will multi-pitch climb ice slopes, practice building anchors and rappelling, and mock lead on the steeper stuff.

Prerequisites are graduating from ICS or having similar climbing experience, as well as having done some post-ICS climbing on snow and ice.

SSI OPEN CLIMB NIGHT

Dates: January 27

Times: 6:30–9 p.m.

Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center, Holman Auditorium artificial ice wall

Cost: $15 members / $20 non-members

Brought to you by the Steep Snow and Ice (SSI) program, this event targets climbers new to ice climbing, providing an introduction to techniques and an opportunity to practice on the foam artificial ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. We will have three ropes on the foam walls, and another three ropes on “dry-tool” routes for those interested in learning skills used when climbing mixed routes (routes with simultaneous rock and ice movement, as is common on many technical alpine climbs).

Due to space limitations, only 25 climbers can participate, and priority will be given to folks who have not previously been able to participate in an SSI class or open climb night. If accepted to the climb night you will be charged $15 (or $20 if you’re not a Mazama member).

You don’t need to have prior ice climbing experience, but you do need to be able to belay independently. You also don’t need ice climbing gear, as we will provide tools; just bring your harness, two locking carabiners, helmet, belay device, mountaineering boots, and horizontal point crampons (we will have a few loaner pairs on hand as well). At 6:30 p.m. we will provide a short demonstration of techniques to get you started, and our volunteers will be happy to answer questions and give feedback throughout the evening. As this is an informal event you are welcome to show up at any time and come and go as you please—you don’t need to be there right at 6:30, unless you want to see the demonstration.

The SSI program runs in late summer and is designed as a course where experienced climbers with a mountaineering focus can progress. For more information, go to mazamas.org/ SSI.

EARLY SKIING IN OREGON

by Lowell Skoog

Skiing in the Pacific Northwest arrived with the railroads in the late 1800s. As the Northern Pacific Railroad was extended down the Columbia River to the coast, thousands of British, German, and Scandinavian immigrants were lured by

immigration agencies to settle along the new line.

In the 1880s, residents of the Hood River valley built a tourist road from the Columbia River to the northeastern flank of Mt. Hood. A tent camp was initially established, and in 1889 the Cloud Cap Inn was constructed near 5,900 feet on the mountain. Next to the construction of the railroad itself, the inn was considered the most important development project in the valley at the time.

During the severe winter of 1889–90, Will and Doug Langille set out from Hood River on homemade skis to see how the inn was faring under the crushing snows. This was the first recorded ski trip to the north side of Mt. Hood and the earliest reference to skiing I’ve found in the Cascades between Mt. Hood and the Canadian border. The Langille party photographed the snowy scenes, popularizing the idea of winter recreation on Mt. Hood.

In 1903, three members of the Mazamas, Colonel Lester Hawkins, Martin Gorman, and T. Brooke White, backpacked with skis to Government Camp on the south side of Mt. Hood, where they were guests of Oliver C. Yocum, manager of the Mountain View House. White predicted, “The time would come when more people would visit Mt. Hood in the winter than in the summer.”

The south side of Mt. Hood became the focus of skiing as winter access was improved. The highway to Government Camp was paved in 1922 and plowed in winter starting around 1927. The Mazamas established their first lodge near Government Camp in 1924 and made their first regular winter outing there over the New Year’s holiday.

The Summit ski area at Government Camp, the oldest on the south side of Mt. Hood, began development in 1927–28. Skiing on the hills around Government Camp continued to grow, and more ambitious skiers began making forays to the slopes above the timberline.

In the 1930s there was informal competition for the fastest time from the Portland city limits to the top of 11,235-foot

Mt. Hood and back. On April 26, 1931, Hjalmar Hvam and Arne Stene of the Cascade Ski Club joined Swiss skier Andre Roch to set a new record. With driver Harald Lee, the party left Portland at 6:03 a.m. and returned at 2:52 p.m., for a roundtrip time of 8 hours, 49 minutes. They started skiing halfway between Government Camp and the timberline. Their ascent was remarkable not only because of their fast time, but because they kept their skis on continuously to the summit and back. Hvam would later become a Hall of Fame skier, while Roch would establish a career as the world’s foremost expert on snow and avalanches.

The April 1931 ski ascent of Mt. Hood was no fluke. In December of that year, a ski party including Elsa Hanft of Spokane repeated the ascent. (It’s unknown whether continued on next page

Facing: James Mount skis toward the timberline on Mt. Hood in 1935.

Photo: Curtis Ijames.

Above: Andre Roch, Hjalmar Hvam, and Arne Stene (L–R) pause during the 1931 ski ascent of Mt. Hood.

Photo: Oregon Historical Society.

Inset: Otto Lang teaches a young student outside Timberline Lodge in the 1930s.

Photo: John Forsen.

Skiing, continued from previous page.

the party skied all the way to the summit.) Formerly a guide at Mt. Baker Lodge, Hanft was probably the first woman to scale Mt. Hood with the help of skis.

In 1937–38, his second season in the Northwest, Otto Lang, a protégé of the famous Austrian instructor, Hannes Schneider, opened a ski school on Mt. Hood. The school was at the timberline, where the Works Progress Administration (WPA) was busy finishing the construction of Timberline Lodge. The lodge opened to the public in February 1938. The Mt. Hood ski patrol, the nation’s first organized volunteer patrol, was also formed that year. A rope tow was built at Government Camp that winter, and a portable tow was installed at Timberline the following year.

Early Oregon skiers completed significant cross-country adventures. In 1917 Dean Van Zant, Clem Blakney, and Chester Treichel skied from Mt. Hood nearly to Mt. Jefferson, a trek of about 60 miles. Carrying 60-pound packs with snowshoes as backup for their skis, they hoped to climb Mt. Jefferson near the end of their trip but abandoned that plan due to a snowstorm.

Encircling the volcanic peaks became a logical step in exploration after the summits had been reached on skis. In April 1934, Ralph Calkin and James Mount of the Wy’east Club made the first ski encirclement of Mt. Hood. They left Cloud Cap Inn at 8:20 a.m. and returned at 6 p.m., after encountering fog and small avalanches on the Reid Glacier. During the spring of 1937, Joe Leuthold and Everett Darr repeated the circuit to join the select group of what were known as “Side Hill Gougers.”

By the mid-1930s, the Oregon Skyline Trail (now the Pacific Crest Trail) between Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson was being developed, and parties from the Forest Service’s Mt. Hood office skied it several times. In 1948 Jack Meissner skied the trail from Mt. Hood all the way to Crater Lake, a distance of about 300 miles. Completed during one of the coldest and snowiest winters in years, the trek required 33 travel days, and Meissner broke trail by himself for most of them.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Lowell Skoog is a retired engineer, a Mazama member, and a life-long skier. He volunteers as archivist and historian with The Mountaineers in Seattle. He is the founder of The Alpenglow Gallery (alpenglow.org) and author of Written in the Snows: Across Time on Skis in the Pacific Northwest, which received the National Outdoor Book Award for history in 2022.

Above: Andre Roch (left) and Hjalmar Hvam reach the summit lookout on Mt. Hood during their 1931 ski ascent.

Photo: Oregon Historical Society.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

By Ali Gray

The winter season is underway! It’s time to think about skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, hiking, climbing on ice or snow, sledding, and any other way people get outside to enjoy the magical mountain landscape in the winter. But hidden underneath all that beauty can sometimes be what many in the industry often call a “dragon”— avalanches.

Avalanches are perhaps the largest threat in the winter, depending on where

you are. The nuances of traveling safely in avalanche terrain, recognizing unstable snow, performing a search and rescue, and mitigating human factors are beyond the scope of this piece, but here are some broad ideas to get you thinking. And remember, not only skiers and snowboarders can trigger or get caught in avalanches—this goes for snowshoers, hikers, and anyone else traveling in the snowy mountains too!

Slope angle

Any slope can technically slide, but those between 30 and 45 degrees have a much higher risk. Unfortunately, these slopes are also the most sought-after for skiing and snowboarding, a perfect blue square or black diamond run. And avalanches can travel far into valley floors

or across flat terrain, so make sure to pay attention to the slopes above you.

Terrain traps

It’s important to pay close attention to your surroundings when traveling in the mountains or foothills in the winter. Even a small slide can build up snow into a gully or creek bed and bury you, or carry you off a cliff. Avoiding what we call “terrain traps” is a good way to mitigate your risk, so travel along ridgelines, don’t cross above cliffs, and avoid the center of bowls or other large clearings in the trees. Generally (but not always!), tight trees are safer to travel in since they can hold the snow in place.

Signs from the snow

Paying attention to sounds the snow makes and what it looks like is a great way to mitigate avalanche risk. If the snow starts collapsing or sliding, if it sounds hollow or makes a “wumphing” sound, or if you see shooting cracks, make a 180 and get out of there! Avoiding areas with windaffected snow (look for drifts or ripples on the snow surface) is also a good idea. If you see signs of recent avalanche activity, avoid those areas and any similar terrain.

Get the training

Reading this short piece is no substitute for real avalanche training, including carrying a beacon, shovel, and probe and knowing how to use them. Here are some resources to help get you started:

■ Northwest Avalanche Center: NWAC is the go-to resource for avalanche information in the Pacific Northwest. They provide daily avalanche and weather forecasts throughout the winter, with advice on where and how to travel safely in the backcountry in the winter. Checking their website before you head out should be a mandatory step in your winter adventures.

□ See nwac.us for the forecast, virtual avalanche training modules, recent accident reports, a weekly newsletter, and more.

■ Avalanche Awareness talks: For those new to learning about avalanches or those wanting to brush up on their knowledge, attending an Avalanche Awareness talk is a great place to start!

□ See nwac.us/avalanche-awarenessclasses for a calendar of virtual and in-person classes.

continued on page 26

TAKE CARE OF YOUR GEAR SO IT TAKES CARE OF YOU

By Ali Gray

It’s inevitable. On a ski tour, snowshoe or winter hike, or day at the resort, you or someone you know will eventually have a gear malfunction. Probably at the top of the skin track or lift, and likely on the first day out for the season. A loose screw. A broken buckle. A cracked or frayed strap. A stuck zipper. Old skin glue that just won’t stick. Ski or board bases that stick to the snow rather than glide blissfully down it. But we can help eliminate those “oh no” moments by doing a little pre-season prep work (and throughout the season too!).

Temperature extremes and moist air can wreak havoc on our gear, and we have plenty of both in the Pacific Northwest. Hot temperatures (like in a summertime south-facing garage) can deform plastics and damage protective coatings and seals. Years of hot-to-cold temperature swings (and especially the sun) can make plastics and some fabrics brittle as they age. Gear stored in damp basements (especially soft goods like clothing, tents, and sleeping bags) can get moldy and even start to rot. If possible, store your gear in plastic, air-tight containers away from excessive heat or cold, and out of damp basements and other humid locations. Don’t tightly roll or stuff items (especially those with insulation that needs to retain loft) into cramped bags or boxes, and make sure to completely dry out your items before storing them away.

And don’t forget, they don’t call it “wear and tear” for nothing! If you’re anything like me, you’re hard on your gear, and a little maintenance can help keep your valuable (emotionally and monetarily) stuff going and going and going.

PRE-SEASON PREP

Getting ready to head out into the snow for the first time this season? Here are a few things to check at home, rather than

Above: Some gear maintenance essentials: fabric cleaners and waterproofing, repair tape and patches, replacement parts, water reservoir cleaning tablets, duct tape, and good ol’ needle and thread.

finding an issue high up a mountain in a snowstorm. Our local gear shops carry ski tuning materials, fabric care products, and any other tools you’ll need, and you can usually get replacement screws, buckles, and other odds and ends from the manufacturer. Let’s keep our gear in good shape and ready-to-use for years to come!

Skis and snowboards

See How to Tune Your Boards (p. 25) for a quick how-to for ski/board tuning!

■ Bindings:

□ Inspect any screws, movable pieces, buckles, straps, and the overall integrity of the materials for any damage or looseness.

□ Click your boots into your bindings and try out all their uphill/ downhill/riser configurations to make sure everything works as expected.

□ For alpine ski bindings, check your DIN (the little heel and toe-piece numbers that determine how easily your skis pop off in a fall)— talk with a local ski shop if you’re unsure what the setting should be.

■ Bases:

□ Check for base damage and fill any scrapes with P-Tex (polyethylene base material). Keep in mind though, if you can see the core of your ski through the base material, it’s probably time for professional help or even a replacement— moisture can get into your ski or board and cause it to rot.

□ Apply a fresh coat of hot wax, using the correct wax type/temperature for the current conditions.

■ Edges

□ Check your edges for burrs or damage. Use a ski tuning file to lightly remove burrs and sharpen your edges if needed (a sharpening tool helps hold your file steady).

■ Boots:

□ Put your boots on (check for any insect friends first!) and make sure they still fit.

□ Tighten down buckles, straps, BOAs, and laces to check for damage and integrity.

□ Storing your boots over the summer loosely buckled or laced

will help them maintain their shape.

■ Skins:

□ Check the “fuzz” side for any thin spots or cuts.

□ Check the glue—remove any debris, and see if it’s starting to get old and globby.

□ Attach skins to your skis or board and make sure the toe and tail pieces work properly, and that they’re sized correctly.

□ If your skins no longer stick to your bases or the glue looks...globby and nasty, it may be time for a re-glue. There are services you can send your skins into, or you can do it at home. I re-glued my own skins a few seasons ago, and it actually wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. There are plenty of resources online to help you get started.

Avalanche safety gear

Take an avalanche course if you haven’t already, or a refresher if it’s been a few years. Get out and practice with friends

at the beginning of the season, and a few times during the winter on those lessstellar days.

■ Beacon:

□ Replace the batteries. Never store the batteries in your beacon over the summer! They can corrode and ruin your beacon (I speak from experience). This goes for things like headlamps and radios too.

□ Do a beacon check with a second beacon before you head out the first time (at home, not the trailhead—but always do a check at the trailhead too!). Test the beacon’s search, receive, and any other important features it may have.

□ Check your beacon manufacturer’s website to see what they recommend, but best practice is to replace your beacon about every five years. You can also send in your beacon for a professional test through the manufacturer

■ Shovel: Check your shovel for cracks or other damage, and make sure the handle attaches properly.

■ Probe: Deploy your probe. All the segments should fit together securely, and look over the cable for any kinks or weaknesses.

■ Airbag: If you’re lucky enough to own an airbag, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for maintenance.

Snowshoes

■ Clean and dry your snowshoes after each use. Water left on any metal can cause it to corrode (clean off any corrosion with steel wool) and mud and other debris can clog up your bindings.

■ Make sure all straps and buckles work properly, and any screws and rivets are tight.

■ Inspect the traction spikes or bars on the bottom and make sure they’re not bent or damaged.

■ If your snowshoes have heel risers, check that they work and hold your weight.

continued on next page

Above left: Removing old skin glue with paper bags and an iron before re-gluing them. Below left: It may be time to replace my ski pole basket this year.

Above right: Don’t be afraid to just use duct tape! Below right: Look at all those screws and moving parts on my ski toe binding! It’s good practice to check complex (and important) gear every once in a while.

■ Get a new pair of boots? Adjust your bindings at home rather than at the cold trailhead!

Boots for hiking and snowshoeing

■ Gore-Tex and other waterproof materials require regular cleaning to maintain function. Are your boots caked with mud from the summer? (I know mine are.) Use an old toothbrush or similar with lukewarm water to lightly remove dirt and other debris. Removing the laces first can help.

■ If needed, you can buy a spray-on DWR (durable water repellant) to give a waterproof boost to your older boots.

■ If you head out to the trails with micro-spikes or similar boot traction devices, put them on with your boots to make sure they don’t need any adjusting or repair.

Nordic gear

Above: Patched hole in my backpack’s hip pocket—it may not be pretty but I won’t lose any more lip balm!

■ Lucky you, Nordic gear is way easier to care for than alpine gear! The same goes—check any screws or glue for your bindings, and that they’re securely attached to the skis.

■ Inspect your boots for damage and make sure they still fit. Check that your boots properly click into your bindings.

■ If your skis have edges, make sure they’re sharp and burr-free, and wipe off any rust.

■ Clean the bases. Mine have fishscales so there’s not much else I need to do. If you have waxable skis, the steps are the same as with alpine skis.

Clothing

■ Try on your clothing and outerwear to see if it still fits (especially postholidays, umph!). Empty the pockets (this usually ends with a “yay” or an “eeew”) and make sure all the zippers and snaps work.

■ Wash all your clothing! This is easy for the next-to-skin stuff, but your midlayers and outerwear need cleaning love too. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, or use a cleaning

product like Nikwax—they have special cleaners for down, softshell, Gore-Tex, etc. Washing your clothing will not only make it smell better, it will improve waterproofness and breathability, and help extend the lifetime of the product.

■ Check your pockets for holes—losing keys, snacks, or other items is always a bummer.

■ Mend any holes with a needle and thread, or use something like Tenacious Tape to patch a tear in outerwear. Some manufacturers will repair their products, so that’s worth looking into if needed, or there are companies and gear shops you can mail items to for repairing anything from tears to zippers.

Other items

A few other items need love and care (and occasional replacement).

■ Helmet manufacturers recommend replacing your helmet every five years or after a severe fall. This is up to you, but regardless, check for any large dents or cracking in the shell or protective

foam. Damage? Probably time to replace it.

■ Try on your goggles or sunglasses and make sure they didn’t get scratched up over the summer (or you forgot about that super annoying scrape right in front of your eye). Make sure the lenses are secure, and find any alternate lenses if you have them.

■ Look over your backpack—zip and unzip all the zippers, check for any tears or holes, replenish any items like sunscreen or lip balm that live there, and remove that nasty half-eaten granola bar from the hip belt pocket.

■ Check over your poles—if they telescope make sure they still slide freely and the clamps work, and replace any loose or damaged baskets or tips.

■ If you use radios in the backcountry (kudos to you if you do!) make sure the batteries haven’t corroded and are recharged, and that the radio functions properly.

Ongoing maintenance

■ It’s not a bad idea to check your important pieces of equipment a few times throughout the season (think boots and bindings).

■ Carry a multi-tool and small repair kit (a Voile strap or two, duct tape, a pole basket, important replacement screws, a bit of bailing wire, etc.) when you head out in case of emergency.

■ Keep those skis and boards waxed (using a rub-on wax is better than nothing!). I usually just wax for cold conditions at the beginning of the season and again for warmer conditions in the spring when the snow starts to get sticky.

■ Repair any ski/board base and edge damage as it occurs. I usually just ignore smaller dings, but any larger chunks out of your bases or edges should be addressed. Think base damage deeper than a few millimeters or edge damage that feels rough and catchy to your bare fingers.

■ Clean and DWR your hiking/snow boots and outerwear if it gets dirty or starts losing waterproofness.Make sure

continued on page

HOW TO TUNE YOUR BOARDS

by Ali Gray

Caring for edges is the “advanced” part of ski tuning, but repairing minor base damage and applying a hot wax is actually pretty easy—and fun!

SETUP

1. Set up your skis or board flat and base up using your vices or other prop-up equipment like sawhorses or stacked wood.

2. Lock your ski brakes back with a large rubber band (best) or try to tie them out of the way.

3. Wipe down your bases with a damp cloth to remove any dust, dirt, or rust. You can remove stubborn rust with a gummy stone.

BASE REPAIR (IF NEEDED)

Any damage that exposes the core needs to be taken to a ski shop, but fixing shallow nicks and scrapes at home is easy. Use black P-Tex for black bases and clear for other colors (the clear does leave little black burnt bits, oh well).

1. Inspect the bases. If necessary, use your scraper to remove any loose and lumpy base material from the damaged area.

2. Light your P-Tex candle and drip the material into the gouge until it mounds up. Blow it out and set it on something metal to cool. Be careful! I’ve dripped onto my finger and having plastic burned into your finger isn’t great.

3. Wait for the P-Tex to cool (it should be cold to the touch) and scrape it off until the base is flush again. Multiple passes of P-Tex may be needed.

I know it’s giving me cancer or something, but I swear, burning P-Tex is one of the best

smells around (hot ski wax too). Or is that the nostalgia talking?

WAXING

There’s no definitive amount of times you need to wax per season. Before the season starts is usually a given, and it’s never a bad idea to leave an un-scraped coat of wax on your bases over the summer to protect them from drying out. Other than that, go ahead and wax if your boards feel sticky, the snow is transitioning from cold winter pow to warm spring corn, or your skis look “dry” and a bit white. Which wax to use: You can choose from all-temperature wax (fine most of the time) or temperature-specific wax (it gets science-y, but usually cold = winter and warm = spring). You can also choose between hydrocarbon, fluorocarbon, or eco-friendly wax. Historically, waxes have been made from fossil fuels and do leave small amounts of residue in the fragile mountain environments we slide around in, so the new eco-friendly products hitting the market are exciting!

1. Heat up your iron—if the wax begins to smoke the iron is too hot!

□ A note on the iron: Using a specific waxing iron is best, but you can use an old iron without steam holes in the bottom—just be careful because you don’t want to burn the wax or your bases.

2. Use base cleaner to remove the old wax from the bases, and wipe them clean (I’m usually lazy and skip this step).

3. Hold the wax against the iron and drip it down the length of the ski or board.

4. Run your iron down from tip to tail, either in a straight line or in little circles. Don’t hold it in one place too long—no smoke! Make as many passes as necessary to get the wax melted and spread across from edge to edge.

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Boards, continued from previous page

5. Let your skis or board cool to room temperature (this can take a while).

6. Use your plastic scraper to scrape off the wax from tip to tail. Perhaps counterintuitively, too much wax will cause your ski to be sticky—you’re done when you’re getting little or no more shavings.

7. Run your scraper down the edges and sidewalls to remove any drips.

8. Use a nylon brush from tip to tail, which pulls wax out of the tiny little groove structure that makes the ski fast.

9. Vacuum up your mess—try not to step on the shavings.

Now get out on the slopes!

A note on snowboards: Everything in the tuning process is the same for skis and snowboards, but get a wider snowboard scraper to make scraping your board’s larger surface area quicker and easier.

A note on eco-friendly wax: Ecofriendly wax is harder to spread with an iron and a bit weird to scrape off, so if you’re new to waxing start with a hydrocarbon wax until you get familiar with the process.

More info: There are tons of great articles and YouTube videos just a quick search away.

Know, continued from page 21

■ The Mazamas includes avalanche awareness in the Intermediate Climbing School curriculum, and has also offered Avalanche Awareness skill-builders in years past, so keep an eye on the calendar at mazamas.org/calendar.

■ Avalanche 1: If you want to travel in avalanche terrain in the winter, I can’t stress enough taking an Avalanche 1 course or equivalent. They’re a tad spendy but well worth the money.

□ See nwac.us/aiare-courses-bylocal-providers to find and register for a course.

□ The Mazamas offers an annual Backcountry Ski Touring course for those interested in skiing or splitboarding in the backcountry. The course provides basic avalanche training and many other skills necessary to enjoy the backcountry in winter. The 2025 course is already underway, but keep an eye out for 2026 details later this year.

■ Other resources: There are plenty of other resources out there to help you continue your avalanche education. Here are a few of my favorites:

□ The National Avalanche Center (avalanche.org) hosts information from avalanche centers across the U.S. and has a good online tutorial.

□ For those on the go, the Utah Avalanche Center Podcast, Avalanche Hour Podcast, and Slide: The Avalanche Podcast are all great listens.

□ Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain by Bruce Tremper is my go-to book on avalanches. It’s packed with easy-to-understand information and stories. Available in the Mazama Library, 551.31 T72 3rd edition.

Stay safe out there!

Gear, continued from page 24

to thoroughly dry out your gear before storing it (or using it again the next day!). This can be hard in small and humid spaces, but it’s worth it. Hang up or lay out your clothing, gloves, and whatnot to prevent mildew (and nasty smells), and wipe off your skis and snowshoes to prevent rust and corrosion.

■ Use soap and water or cleaning tablets in water bottles and especially water reservoirs and hoses. I’m bad at remembering to do this, and have said “ewww” quite a few times when taking a closer look at my heavily-used reservoir.

INTO THE WINTER GARDEN

by Ryan Reed

For months the mountain looks sickly, a crumbling pyramid of ochres and grays, dust and debris covering the exhausted remnants of its winter glory. Then September: a dusting of white. October: a thin but lasting layer. Finally, the storms of November: the white blanket reaches down to tree line, the gnarled glaciers smooth out, and secret ice grows in the gullies.

On the approach to Devil’s Kitchen Headwall variation 1, February 2022. All photos: Ryan Reed.

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Garden, continued from previous page.

For a certain stripe of climber and backcountry skier, the arrival of snow on Mt. Hood is an annual rebirth after the dead season of summer. The first dusting raises their spirits; an October storm can prompt a furtive glance at the skis; by late November, excited messages start going out: How’s the snow? Any ice yet? Is this or that route in? They begin tracking the forecasts, reading the avalanche reports, and monitoring social media, messaging those who post trip reports for more specifics.

Timberline’s Salmon River lot starts seeing predawn traffic, bringing backcountry skiers and climbers who snub the resort lifts and head straight uphill. Many are there just to ski down the open terrain, paying for a ride with their legs instead of their wallets. But others continue into the wilderness above the Palmer lift, heading for Illumination Saddle, the summit, or maybe a headwall ice route.

Why would anyone climb in winter? Hood offers dangers in every season, but winter brings tenuous weather windows, higher avalanche risk, and longer, colder storms. The danger of rockfall recedes, but tumbling rime takes its place. The snow might be scoured to a hard shine in one spot, then drifted into knee-deep powder the next. Most crevasses are filled, but fumaroles and bergschrunds can lurk unseen below a too-thin layer of snow.

Water ice chips littering surface snow, February 2020.

Rime ice shrubbery on Triangle Moraine, December 2020.

Ah, but the rewards! Cold allows for later starts, and that extra sleep can greatly improve your mood. You ascend through acres of white marked only by your own tracks. If you have skis, you often descend through pristine snows (though at other times, you’ll skid and scrape down icy washboards). Unlike spring weekends, when the mountain teems with climbers of widely varying abilities, in winter you get all the solitude you want—and thankfully, most novices keep their distance.

Of course, the emptiness means fewer parties to follow, or to help. The absence of a boot track can mean post-holing and stomping your way forward, or losing your way altogether. A few Decembers ago a pair of skiers followed my party’s boot prints halfway up a Devil’s Kitchen Headwall ice climb; they had simply followed the only visible tracks, assuming they led up the usual route. They were rescued by a party below them.

Pristine snows descending the Old Chute, February 2024.

The terrain can be otherworldly. After a few high-wind, moisture-laden storms, the mountain becomes a modernist sculpture park. Above the Palmer chairlift, a garden of crystal shrubbery grows on the spine leading up Triangle Moraine. Flatter areas ripple with sapphire bumps, scatted around like beautiful litter. Misshapen icy knobs—chicken heads, or what skiers call death cookies—cover some sections, while drier slopes are shaped into dune-like sastrugi, all whiplash curves and ornamental florets. The occasional warm front brings highelevation rain, which can cover acres of fresh snow with a layer of ice: a breakable crust for one step, a solid sheet the next.

Icy crust below the Hogsback, January 2021.

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Garden, continued from previous page

The towers above the Hogsback are the domain of rime ice, a brittle meringue formed when moistureladen, supercooled air hits a surface that can freeze it. Rime grows on outcrops like magical fungus, building on itself, creating fantastic feathered castles. Often in the Pearly Gates, and at the top-out of many couloirs, climbers have to chop their way through barricades of rime, like shattering petals in a thicket of glass flowers.

The ice that forms in the headwall gullies of Devil’s Kitchen and Reid Glacier is fickle. One day, or in one spot, it yields to a swung axe pick like Styrofoam; the next it shatters into dinner plates. You hope for a mix of water ice (refrozen water), and alpine ice (highly compressed snow), but you take what’s there. Some years a route will never come into good condition. The ice routes vary greatly in difficulty: The routes on the east flank, exposed to morning light, demand quick work and mixed rock and ice techniques; the gullies on the Eliot Glacier side require stamina on top of a long approach.

A blossom of rime ice, Pearly Gates, January 2023.

Aaron Nelson belaying in Devil’s Kitchen Headwall, Februrary 2022.

Most winter climbers find ample challenge on the so-called easy routes. The first parties up the Old Chute or Mazama Chute following a storm face the challenge of forging a path through knee- or thigh-deep snow. The Pearly Gates can sport a few spicy ice steps all winter, clogs of rime, and an occasional overhead fin hanging low over the passageway.

When all goes well, most routes are solid, beautiful, and blissfully uncongested. On a quiet winter day, Mt. Hood can seem as welcoming as any day of spring. But the frozen landscape bears the marks of a fierce climate that we, thankfully, never have to experience. We watch the forecasts and pick our spots, and aim for pleasant outings into the winter gardens of our home mountain, our mountain home.

Climbers approach Pearly Gates, December 2020.

Krista Curtis in the Pearly Gates, January 2022.

CLIMBING MT. HOOD IN WINTER

by Ryan Reed

Have a few Mt. Hood summits and think you’re ready for a winter attempt? Here are a few tips—and warnings.

Winter climbing is not always harder than springtime, but you need to be prepared for tougher conditions. You have to be solid with crampons, two tools, and climbing steep snow and ice; if you need more training, consider the Mazama Steep Snow and Ice skill-builder in the summer. Make sure your other “systems” (clothing, food, equipment) are dialed in. Refresh your avalanche knowledge, or take another class. Find an experienced partner. Be prepared to wait a while for a solid weather window with good conditions. It will be too cold and stormy, then too warm and melty, then elevated avalanche danger, then perfect except for high wind, and so forth.

Consider climbing first just to Devil’s Kitchen, the flat shelf below the Hogsback, to become more familiar with the upper mountain. There are no crevasses or fumaroles on the route, and the slope maxes out at just over 30 degrees. Make a mental map of the features—Crater Rock, the Steel Cliffs, the Hogsback, the Pearly Gates—and take note of the “Hood Triangle” effect that sends the unwary toward Zigzag Canyon. Imagine navigating with limited visibility.

Be prepared to turn around at any stage. Keep in mind that downclimbing, whether on ice, hard snow, or powder, is likely to be harder and less secure than downclimbing the pliable snow of springtime.

Be prepared for whiteouts, whether from blowing snow or just fog, which can occur abruptly on pleasant days. It’s not just about navigation; a full-on whiteout is so disorienting it can be difficult to walk or even stand upright.

Flotation

Jargon for whatever keeps you from postholing into deep, soft snow: usually skis, splitboard, or snowshoes. Often unnecessary even after a storm, since the southside is frequently wind-scoured of new snow. Usually stashed en route, at

Palmer or Devil’s Kitchen—only experts should ski above the Hogsback.

Clothing

As with spring climbing, the trick is to stay warm enough without sweating. So: layers and venting. Extra layers for cold, and multiple head, face, neck, and hand coverings to swap out as needed. Eye protection for both sun and falling ice. Helmet.

Equipment

If you’re planning to climb above the Hogsback, bring two tools (i.e., ice axe and ice tool), since you may encounter rime or alpine ice even on the easier routes. Crampons. Flotation if called for. Trekking or ski poles. Emergency bivy and/or insulating sleeping pad.

Avy gear

Carry, and know how to use, avalanche beacons, shovels, and probes if you’re venturing into avy-prone terrain (Leuthold Couloir, West Crater Rim) in anything but very solid conditions. The Old Chute slope is also avy terrain, but usually firms up several days after a storm.

Miscellaneous

Tire chains, Sno-Park permit, and Mt. Hood climbing permit.

Weather and conditions

■ Read the avalanche and weather report from the Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC), and know what the forecasts mean. Check NOAA and other trustworthy forecast sites.

■ Watch weather over a week or more, tracking temperatures, precipitation, wind, and cloud cover to form a theory about the snow surface. Then compare with the actual conditions, and repeat.

■ Find trip reports on Facebook climbing groups, Instagram, etc. The most reliable are from Portland Mountain Rescue and the Mt. Hood Climbing Rangers, but many climbers post detailed reports.

■ Cold and cloud cover help keep rime ice and rock in place. Near- or above-freezing temperatures after a stormy period probably mean a lot of rime falling off the summit ridgeline,

especially after sunrise or with wind. It hurts, and bigger pieces can knock you down. Before ascending a face or gully below rime towers, look and listen for falling rime; chips might be OK, larger pieces not so much.

■ It’s always windier than you want. A forecast of 10 mph counts as your lucky day; 25 or 30 mph should give you pause.

It comes down to this: There’s a lot to know, and knowledge is safety. For a good discussion of risk assessment, even if you’re not venturing beyond the Old Chute, watch Mount Hood Beyond the South Side from Portland Mountain Rescue (Matt Zavorink and Scott Branscum), available on YouTube. And talk to other climbers with experience.

Editors note: Climbing Mt. Hood during winter is an extremely challenging and potentially lifethreatening endeavor that requires extensive technical skills, specialized equipment, and comprehensive mountain safety knowledge. This is not a recreational activity for novice climbers or untrained individuals.

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THAT’S THE WAY THE ICE CRUMBLES

By Nathan Herzog

It was a cold, coooold weekend outside of La Pine, OR. I guess that’s sort of a prerequisite for a story involving ice climbing. It was the beginning of March 2019, and word on the street was that conditions were primed for the waterfalls just downstream from Paulina Lake to freeze over. Even better, there were a couple of bluebird days being forecast for the weekend! With Oregon’s relative lack of ice climbing opportunities and ice being on the bucket list for several folks in our adventure crew, we were stoked to load up and caravan over from Portland.

We decided to camp at the trailhead at Ten Mile Sno-Park so we could get an early start and maximize our time adventuring. The lows were around 10 degrees that weekend. My girlfriend (now wife) and I had the relative luxury of sleeping in our beat-up Ford camper van. A few others slept in the back of their Subarus, and then there were two that decided to brave the elements and test cold-weather winter camping. One slept out in the open in a sleeping bag on a Tyvex insulated pad, while another slept in an insulated hammock. Brrrr.

In the morning, we took time getting our gear sorted, having some breakfast, and trying to warm up with a hot drink. We started the morning with nine in our party, with more than half skinning up the mildly inclined path and the rest of us plodding along in snowshoes. The skis might not have sped things up too much on the way in, but we sure were cursing at their speed on the way back later in the day.

The 2.5-mile hike in is pretty standard, relatively flat with just a mild slope. There was a small stream crossing just before arriving at the bowl where the waterfalls are located. We crossed on a snow-covered log. One team member slipped and dunked a leg in the stream. He was already battling

a cough and decided to end the trip early and head back to the cars and then back home. Another team member straddled the log and kind of shimmied across. This was funny to watch—but hey, at least they didn’t dunk a leg!

Access to the falls is from above. There are two waterfalls on perpendicular faces of the canyon where the river above splits into two separate channels before tumbling over the cliffs edge. One of the falls already had a party engaged in a climb. With the size of our group, we wanted to get started setting up so that we could cycle through as many of us as possible.

The waterfall that remained open had a lot of running water in the main channel but appeared to have a solid column of ice off to the right side. This was concerning, but the team decided to account for the questionable ice’s sketch factor by designing a belay system that could quickly transition from belaying from above to hauling. The entire team stayed up above the waterfall, out of harm’s way, except for the climber (who was lowered in from the anchor).

The team spent a lot of time talking through setting up the anchor, how to make the transition from belay to haul, and making sure everyone understood their roles. Finally, it was time to lower the first person down to the bottom. Everything went off without a hitch (so to speak). The first climber made it down to the bottom, climbed the route, and topped out. The next few team members also climbed without incident, and we had the opportunity to test the anchor’s haul capabilities. Since it was the first time being on ice for most of us, it was easy to get pumped. For a few team members, we transitioned from belay to haul and successfully hauled them up the rest of the route to the top when needed.

About half the group had the opportunity to climb, and then finally… finally…it was my turn!

I pumped myself up while being lowered down. I reached the bottom and pulled out my ice tools. The team called down that the belay was set, and I was

ready to go. I channeled Sylvester Stallone’s Cliffhanger. I was cruising.

Thwack. Thwack. Step. Step.

“This is AMAZING! I’m nearly at the top!” I said to myself.

And that’s when it happened…

One foul swing of the tool. A loud CRAAAACK—and then silence for a moment as everything slipped away, like a curtain released from its hangers crumpling towards the floor. The instant stretched, a surreal feeling as though the world itself dropped away and there was only me and nothing, floating…

Then my mind came racing back.

A moment of panic.

“What just happened? Is the rope holding? Am I OK?!” I asked myself as I heard the wall of ice crash to the ground below me. I finally recognized what had happened. It only took a moment to recover from the panic and realize that I was unscathed. A big smile crossed my face and I let out a laugh, then a “WOOO!” to let the onlookers above the rim of the canyon know that I was OK.

I blew my emergency whistle, and the team above me quickly transitioned and hauled me up to the top, where they clapped me on the back and gave me a hug.

In hindsight, I am certain that I was overzealous in my tool swings and crampon kicks. Having never climbed ice before, I had no concept that the condition of the ice might dictate the quality of the swings indicated for a clean ascent. With solid, chunky ice you might need to throw some muscle into your swings. With suspect or potentially deteriorating ice, all that is necessary might be some mild chipping or ginger placement of the pick and spikes.

But first things first: risk assessment, injury avoidance, and contingency planning. The only reason an attempt on that pillar was even considered was because we had no desire or plan to lead a route. Keeping the team up above the climber—safe and out of harm’s way—was the first of a few things we did right. We also made sure that there was no traffic below the route; no other climbing teams, no snowshoers, and no other winter

wonderland seekers. The ability to quickly convert the belay to a haul system was key to our contingency planning. The fact that we tested this capability before my mishap gave me confidence that the system was going to work after things started to go south.

But one of the most important factors of all with this generally inexperienced group of aspiring ice ascenders was that two members of our team were experienced members of a mountain rescue group. They led the risk assessment, designed the belay system, and walked everyone through step-by-step how to approach the climb. Without their

experience and leadership, this would have been a dangerous endeavor indeed.

Knowing what I know now, would I have done anything differently? That’s a tough question. I wouldn’t have changed anything about our preparation or the decisions we made about how to approach or protect the climb. What I would have changed is how I personally went about using my tools to ascend the ice. I think I likely could have gotten to the top without incident had I been more light-handed with my swings and kicks. But would I have made a different decision about whether to pursue the climb at all? That’s a really tough call. Watching everything drop away

and time seeming to momentarily suspend was one of the most surreal experiences that I can recall. The fact that no one was injured and that we all walked away with a great story to tell certainly helps tip the scale more in the direction of not wanting to change a thing.

What I can say is that it didn’t discourage us much. The next day we regrouped, made our way back to the bowl, and attempted the other (much more stable and not in the least bit sketchy) ice column. We all made it up that route as far as our fatigued muscles would carry us with no additional incidents to report.

Left: Nathan on the column before the collapse. Center: Crack! The world dropping away.

Right: Where’d the ice go? Time to haul Nathan up and get him in some dry clothes!

Photos: Ali Gray.

STEENS MOUNTAIN NORDIC BACKPACK: SKIING ON TOP OF THE WORLD

by Barbara Schulz

Late in the 2024 ski season, from May 16–19, three of us—Jen Travers, Lindsey Addison, and myself— embarked on a new type of Nordic adventure: backpacking into the Steens with our cross-country skis.

Lindsey and I took off from Portland on Thursday, May 16, at noon and drove out to Burns in Lindsey’s bus (which has a comfy mattress in the back!). We met up with Jen at Crane Hot Springs, a few miles east of Burns, in the evening. A hot soak was an excellent way to start our adventure!

The next morning we drove to the Bureau of Land Management office south of Burns and picked up the key to the gate that blocks the road up Steens Mountain. Before this trip, I did not know that there was a way to drive beyond the gate. As we drove toward the mountain we could see that the snowline had receded quite a bit, but the top of the mountain was still white. We got as far as Lilly Lake Campground

comfortably, but hit more snow there and decided to park our cars.

The first few miles were a mix of skiing and hiking. Big patches of snow alternated with stretches of gravel where the snow had melted. It took us about three hours to get to Jackman Park Campground, our camping destination. The weather was splendid: blue skies and balmy temperatures. We could bask in the sun! The snow was surprisingly good—quite soft and easy to ski on. We spent the afternoon setting up camp and exploring the area a little. Unfortunately, there were no level, bare spots in the campground, so we pitched our tents on the snow. But we did have a toilet with toilet paper!

While the day had been sunny and warm, the temperature dropped at night. The water in our bottles was frozen in the morning, and the cold seeped through our sleeping pads, even though we had doubled up. Snow camping takes extra gear and experience!

We woke up to beautiful blue skies, the sun warming our tents. We got ready for our big day: up the mountain! The angle of Steens Mountain is ideal for Nordic skiing:

You never need skins, and the uphills are gentle. We made it up the mountain in less than three hours. Not having a big pack helps a lot! We explored around the east side of the mountain and took a nice long lunch break on the south side, lolling in the sun. When we got up to ski again, the wind had picked up a lot. It was very strong as we headed back, so we decided not to explore the west side of the mountain but to head south instead. We skied down a ways and then went up another small mountain on the south side.

Skiing on Steens Mountain feels like skiing on top of the world. The mountain is so vast, and you have a 360-degree view. The skies are so open in eastern Oregon, and we were the only people on the mountain! The only living beings we saw were coyotes—there were lots of coyote tracks everywhere.

After exploring a bit on the south side, we decided to ski down to camp and head out instead of camping in the snow another night. Skiing down Steens Mountain is a dream. The downhills are very gentle but have enough incline to give you some speed. Fabulous!

We made it down in no time, broke camp, and headed out. We overnighted on an open spot further down on the mountain, surrounded by a herd of curious cows. On our way back to Burns, we saw several Pronghorn antelopes running through the sagebrush. We dropped off the key at the BLM office in Burns and headed back to Portland.

Skiing on Steens Mountain is a fabulous adventure: solitude, great views, good snow, and gentle slopes. We are already making plans to go up there again next spring. We lucked out in our timing—the alternation of snow and gravel on the road up seemed to be a deterrent for snowmobilers; when we got up there, they were all gone! Snow

camping takes a bit of extra preparation. One definitely needs some extra insulation from underneath; I brought two sleeping pads and the cold still got through. Next time, I will try three pads instead of two. But the cold at night is really the only problem, as long as you pick some days with blue skies and balmy spring temperatures. And the days are longer in May, so the nights in the tent are not so long.

Skiing on Steens is Nordic skiing at its best!

Facing: Skiing on Steens Mountain summit.

Top: Kiger Gorge .

Left: Jen and Lindsey at Little Blitzen Gorge.

Right: Camp in Jackman Park.

Photos: Barbara Schulz.

Editors note: Jen and Lindsey plan to lead this trip again in late April/early May 2025.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS MINUTES

SEPTEMBER 3, 2024

Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Matthew Sundling, Secretary; Charles Barker, Marty Hanson, Chris Jaworski, Claire Tenscher. Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:03 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

MEETING AGENDA

■ Meeting minutes approval

□ Meeting minute review delayed to a future date.

BYLAWS CHANGE TO CREATE GOVERNANCE COMMITTEE APPROVAL

■ Proposal to modify Bylaws Section 4.12 by adding a new Governance Committee, removing the Nominating Committee, and adjusting language in Sections 4.6 and 5.2 to clarify the timing of the annual election of board members.

□ Motion to approve bylaw changes: Motion by Greg S., seconded by Matt S., vote passed unanimously. All in favor, 0 against, 0 abstained.

■ Additionally, a correction will be made by removing the reference to the Nominating Committee at the beginning of the Advisory Committee section. The board agreed to simply strike out this reference for internal bylaws consistency; this is not a material change. No vote is required to make this adjustment.

ESTABLISHMENT

OF THE GOVERNANCE COMMITTEE CHARTER

■ Motion to approve the Governance Committee Charter to formally establish the Governance Committee: Motion by Greg S., seconded by Matt S., vote passed unanimously. All in favor, 0 against, 0 abstained.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ Grant: The Bob Wilson Foundation has made a donation to the Mazamas, which has been received.

■ Gala Update: There are tickets remaining, with only a week left to sell. Board support is needed for personal invites.

■ Membership: Preparations are underway to launch the membership

campaign and coordinate all related efforts.

■ Lodge Update: Masonry work is in progress to repair the chimney, and the roof installation is planned for this month.

■ Strategic Planning: The Strategic Planning retreat is being planned for November 9, pending confirmation with the facilitator.

TREASURER’S REPORT

■ As of July 31, 2024, the organization holds $531,000 in cash, including a $482,000 deposit for the Bob Wilson Expedition Endowment. Net assets available for operations are $677,000, up $109,000 from the previous year. Investments saw a strong performance, increasing by $84,000. Revenue from contributions and membership is stable, but some areas, such as merchandise and program supplies, are underperforming against the budget. Key expenses include a significant rise in insurance costs and ongoing maintenance projects at the lodge. Overall, the organization remains financially solid with a modest $32,000 YTD budget variance.

EXECUTIVE SESSION

■ No executive session.

ADJOURNMENT

■ The meeting was adjourned by President Greg Scott.

OCTOBER 22, 2024

Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Matthew Sundling, Secretary; Charles Barker, Debbie Dwelle, Marty Hanson, Chris Jaworski, Claire Tenscher; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director; Guests: Jeff Hawkins, Chris Kruell, and Jessica Minifie.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:03 p.m. by Vice President David Urbaniak.

■ A quorum was present.

MEETING AGENDA

■ Meeting minutes approval

□ Meeting minute review delayed to a future date.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ Gala: We gained valuable insights from this event and recognize the importance of becoming a donor-supported organization for our operations. Fundraising will continue to be a learning and growth area.

■ Lodge: The roof is completed. We conducted a walkthrough with Chris and Jeff Hawkins and are pleased with the results. The roof project cost $80,000, including some plumbing and dry rot repair. This also included masonry work, flashing, and debris removal. The project was finished on time and within budget.

■ Budget Season: In October, we’ll address 2025 expenses and program opportunities. With expenses outpacing revenue growth, closing this gap is essential. The 2025 budget will be presented to the board in November, with final approval planned for December.

■ Staff Review: The first formal staff review process will be completed in November and December.

■ Volunteer Appreciation: Scheduled for December 5.

■ Wilson Fund: As of August, $482,000 has been fully allocated to the endowment fund for expeditions.

TREASURER’S REPORT

■ We are maintaining a stable level of net available assets for operations. Membership and program revenue are on track, aligning well with the budget. Key variances include:

□ Positive Variance: Lodge revenue and event revenue (from the Gala), which wasn’t originally budgeted.

□ Negative Variance: Significant increase in expenses, with major factors including an $80,000 rise in insurance costs, legal expenses related to past bylaws work, and unexpected maintenance and facilities costs.

LODGE UPDATE:

■ Chris Jaworski provided a final update on his work. He created documentation outlining regular responsibilities and procedures to establish a foundation for opening the Lodge.

■ Key Points:

□ Opening Timeline: The Lodge is not ready for public use until a reservations and payment system is established. This process will likely take a few weeks to implement.

□ Reservation System Options: Chris suggested a basic “minimal viable” approach, including a form-based reservation where users call to provide payment information, though this approach is high-touch, error-prone, and time-intensive.

□ Proposed System Costs: Embedding the reservation tech on our website would cost $199, with an ongoing fee of $290 per month, which includes self check-in/check-out functionality.

□ A comprehensive report from Chris is forthcoming, and board members will review the document and email questions by Monday, October 28, 2024.

EMPLOYEE HANDBOOK UPDATE

■ The Employee Handbook has been updated for the first time since 2018. A lawyer reviewed the document to ensure it reflects the current work environment and staffing levels at the Mazamas, and fully complies with Oregon labor law. Notable improvements include updated paid time off policies.

■ Motion to approve by Matt S. and Liz C.; vote passed unanimously with all in favor, 0 opposed, and 0 abstaining.

EXECUTIVE SESSION

■ Session started at 7:55 p.m. Discussion pertaining to organizational awards. No decisions requiring a vote were made.

ADJOURNMENT

■ The meeting was adjourned by Vice President David Urbaniak at 8:04 p.m.

NOVEMBER 19, 2024

Attending: Greg Scott, President; David Urbaniak, Vice President; Liz Crowe, Treasurer; Matthew Sundling, Secretary; Charles Barker, Debbie Dwelle, Marty Hanson, Chris Jaworski, Claire Tenscher; Staff: Rebekah Phillips, Executive Director; Guests: Pushkar Dixit.

WELCOME & CALL TO ORDER

■ The meeting was called to order at 6:02 p.m. by President Greg Scott.

■ A quorum was present.

MEETING AGENDA

■ Meeting minutes approval

□ Approval of the previous meeting minutes required a vote.

■ The Board reviewed and voted on the approval of prior meeting minutes:

□ August 2024 meeting minutes: Motion to approve by Marty H., seconded by Chris J. Approved unanimously.

□ September 2024 meeting minutes: Motion to approve by Marty H., seconded by Chris J. Approved with two abstentions (Debbie D. and Matt S.).

□ October 2024 meeting minutes: Motion to approve by Marty H., seconded by Chris J. Approved with one abstention (Greg S.).

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR REPORT

■ Membership: The campaign is progressing well. Additional outreach efforts are planned, including events at Patagonia and REI, to further boost membership.

■ Election: The election was uncontested, resulting in lower turnout, with no issues reported.

■ Year-End Giving Campaign: A direct mail appeal is being sent to members, accompanied by a Bulletin article introducing a new planned giving program.

■ Volunteer Appreciation Event: Invitations have been emailed for the December 5 event at Nordic Northwest, featuring an awards ceremony, small bites, and refreshments.

TREASURER’S REPORT

■ The organization’s cash balance as of September 30, 2024, stands at $41,000 and total working capital was -$62,000.

This is a reflection of the year-to-date budget-to-actual variance which shows a significant shortfall of -$95,000, driven by rising expenses, including an $80,000 insurance premium increase, partially financed with $4k in interest expense year-to-date. Net assets available for operations total $623,000, while investments performed strongly, gaining $120,000 year-to-date for a total of $1,110,000.

ANNUAL BUDGET REVIEW

■ The executive director presented the first draft of the FY25 Annual Budget, outlining key assumptions, principles, and best- and worst-case scenarios. Board members engaged with contextual and clarifying questions to understand the rationale behind the proposal. Further review, refinement, and final approval are scheduled for the next Board meeting on December 3, 2024.

CISM UPDATE

■ The CISM (Critical Incident Stress Management) Committee submitted a report addressing recent discussions about the continued use of the CISM method to support Mazama members. A recommendation to discontinue the method, made by the former committee chair, was reviewed and ultimately not supported by the committee. After consulting with the International Critical Incident Stress Foundation (ICISF) and reviewing legal and operational considerations, the committee confirmed its commitment to the CISM approach, citing its 32-year history without legal issues or complaints. The former chair has stepped down, and the committee unanimously recommends maintaining its services and affiliation with ICISF.

EXECUTIVE SESSION

■ Session started at 7:35 p.m. Topic pertaining to Board nominations.

ADJOURNMENT

■ The meeting was adjourned by President Greg Scott at 7:53 p.m.

Above: Taking in the sunshine during a Mazama Backcountry Ski Touring “Basics Day” tour.

Photo: Ali Gray.