APRIL 2016 • VOL. 98 | NO. 4
The Summer CLIMB Schedule Putting it Into Practice: Beyond BCEP Ancohuma Ascent Climbing the Lightning Rod of the Cascades
Features
ASI 2016
Do you want to climb ice? How about the north face of mount anything? What will this class teach you? Advanced rope work and anchor-building skills, high-angle alpine travel techniques, advanced crevasse-rescue technique, small team high angle rescue skills, and yes, beginning ice climbing technique. Go to: tinyurl.com/mazamasASI Application period: April 18–May 18
Putting it Into Practice
Monthly Columns
ARC’TERYX SPRING LAUNCH Head over to the Arc’Teryx Portland store on NW 23rd for the launch of their spring collection. April 9 at Arc’Teryx Portland, 605 NW 23rd
Ancohuma Ascent
BASIC ROCK SKILLS
This is your opportunity to refresh knot tying, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line, and cleaning a top-rope anchor. Next sessions: April 15 & May 26 Go to: tinyurl.com/mazamasBasicRock
DISCOVERY NIGHT This is a bright and bold celebration of what it means to be a Mazama and a great opportunity for new and potential members to come and learn about the Mazamas. Feel free to bring a friend or two! Cover: Kai Waldron at the base of the Wolf’s Head, Cirque of the Towers, Wyoming. Photo: Angela Bohlke.
May 9, 6–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center; FREE Event—door prizes, raffles, food and beer.
Contact Us
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)
Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503-227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.
Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon 2 MAZAMAS
Putting it Into Practice: Beyond BCEP, p. 6 Mt. Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys, p. 8 Intro to Mazama Climbing 2016, p. 10 Summer Climb Schedule, p. 13 Climbing the Lightning Rod of the Cascades, p. 18 Mazama Mountain Science School, p. 20 A Distinctly Northwest Climbing Tradition, p. 23 My Most Memorable Mt. Hood Adventure, p. 24 Continental Divide: A History of Mountaineering, p. 26 Ancohuma Ascent, p. 28 Mt. Maude & Seven Fingered Jack, p. 32 More Climbing: Not Red Tape, p. 34 A Look Back at My Summer After BCEP, p. 36
Executive Director’s Report, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Membership Report, p. 39 Mazama Families, p. 40 Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM), p. 41 Classic Mazamas, p. 41 Mazama Lodge, p. 42 Evening Travel Programs, p. 43 Trail Trips, p. 44 Outings, p. 46 Executive Council, p. 47
Publications Committee Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Catherine Diaz, Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Lacy Turner
Mazama Staff Lee Davis • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager • sarah@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org Laura Burger • Membership & Development Assistant • laura@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
ADVERTISER INDEX
Active Adventures, p. 27 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 46 CAMP. p. 18 Centered in Motion, p. 41 Classifieds, p. 5 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 22 Embark Adventures, p. 5 & 38 Firn Line Designs, p. 38 Green Trails Maps, p. 9 Montbell, p. 21 Mountain Hardwear, p. 23 Mountain Shop, p. 37 MSR, p. 43 Next Adventure, p. 40 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 45 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 46 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, . 41
Advertise now! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising
Upcoming Opportunities Rams Head Randonee
Mountain Running Camp
The Rams Head Randonee is an uphill/ downhill course laid out on the Mt. Hood Meadows Stadium complex. This year’s course will include a short boot-pack section within various uphill sections, which totals just over 1,900 feet of vertical gain. If you’ve been interested in skinning uphill, this will be a great opportunity to get involved and start learning. And if you’re an experienced racer, this is your chance to shine! This race also acts as a fundraiser for the Northwest Avalanche Center. The whole course will take less than an hour, which will give race participants and spectators plenty of time to try out the new demo gear offered in Vendor Village. Randonee and Nordic demos, organized by the Mountain Shop, will also be available in the demo village at the start. ▶▶ When: Sunday, May 1 ▶▶ Where: Mt. Hood Meadows ▶▶ Time: 8 a.m.–5 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $25 (NWAC fundraiser!)
Located at the beautiful Mazama Lodge, the camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. This 2 1/2day, 2-night camp includes clinics, group runs, discussion of training philosphies and mountain safety, excellent camaraderie, instruction by top level athletes, an Icebreaker t-shirt, great food, and more!
Scenes from the 2015 Mazama Mountain Running Camp. Photos: Jacob Raab
▶▶ When: July 29–31 ▶▶ Where: Mt. Hood, Mazama Lodge ▶▶ Cost: $345 ▶▶ More Information: tinyurl.com/MazMtnRun
Round the Mountain Hike most of the Timberline Trail with only a day pack as you are shuttled to various launch points each day from the Mazama Lodge serving as your base camp. At Mazama Lodge, near Government Camp, you’ll enjoy great food, hot showers, a comfortable place to sleep, and stories from the day, before turning in for the evening. ▶▶ When: Sep. 3–5 ▶▶ Where: Mt. Hood, Mazama Lodge ▶▶ Cost: $390 members/$450 nonmembers ▶▶ More Information: tinyurl.com/MazamaRTM
Psychological First Aid Mental toughness is an essential component to function well in outdoor activities. Some people naturally come by mental toughness; the rest of us can learn mental toughness. All of us can learn resistance and resilience to stress, and emotional intelligence skills that will help us prepare ourselves and be a better team member in hard times in outdoor activities and in life. Much like learning first aid, how to effectively use crampons or belaying, mental toughness can be taught, learned, and used. Toward that goal, the CISM (Critical Incident Stress Management) committee will be offering a one evening introduction course on psychological first aid. The course will be taught by Tim Dietz. Tim is a retired Fire Services Captain and Behavioral Health Specialist for a metropolitan fire district in Oregon. He is a licensed Professional Counselor, an internationally recognized speaker on crisis, grief, and staying happy and healthy in the emergency service professions. Tim is the CEO and founder of Responder Wellness Resources. Tim was essential to the development of the CISM team in 1992. We are fortunate to have his expertise available to us to help with this training. This course is appropriate to any skill level and open to all. ▶▶ When: Thursday, May 5 ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $25
APRIL 2016 3
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT
Sharing our love of the mountains… Dear members, Half way through the nineteenth century, in 1857, the world’s first mountaineering club was founded in London—the Alpine Club. Geographic exploration, achievement, and scientific discovery were core purposes of the Alpine Club and of many of the other national mountaineering organizations formed in its model over the next fifty years. In America, the Appalachian Mountain Club in 1876, the Sierra Club in 1892, and the Mazamas in 1894 were formed in the three mountainous corners of our continent, all for similar purposes. The Mazamas were organized on the summit of Mt. Hood on July 19, 1894, by a small group of leaders from Portland and around the Pacific Northwest. Many names of these leaders will be recognized to those of you who live in Portland, including Rodney Glisan, Henry Northrup, Henry Pittock, Charles Sholes, and our founder William Gladstone Steel, who was also the driving force behind the creation of Crater Lake National Park. In reflecting on this history and legacy, something stands out about the Mazamas. From the very beginning we seemed more interested in sharing our love of the mountains with others than these other clubs, and generally more focused on including our community members than in any pure pursuit of individual achievement. When William Colby, first Secretary of the Sierra Club, wanted to learn how to organize group outings, helping John Muir share his love of the Sierras with their members, he looked to the Mazamas for inspiration and know-how. We also believe the Mazamas hold the honor of having the highest early participation rate on climbs by women for decades after our founding. Looking through photos of Mazama Annual Outings you see people of all ages and genders working together and sharing in their experience of the mountains. William Steel was reported to have had “a missionary’s zeal for teaching city dwellers to climb and love the mountains” (Scott, 1969, p. 1). And while it is clear that our founders viewed themselves as 4 MAZAMAS
authentic mountain climbers, it was Steel’s influence that shaped what we are today. One of the things that we are proudest of at the Mazamas is how focused we remain on our founding purposes and mission. One hundred and twenty two years later, Steel’s drive to teach people to climb and to love the mountains is at the core of the Mazamas. Justin Rotherham, a current Mazama climb leader, who is working on the leader development task force, recently served on climbing committee, and is coordinating our Families Mountaineering class, recently
William Steel. Photo: Mazama Archives.
sent me an email in which he said “the largest benefit of being a climb leader is getting to share my love for the mountains with other people.” This idea is at the core of who we are as an organization. All of our educational classes, facilities, social programs, youth and conservation programs are about sharing our love for the mountains. Through our climbing classes in particular we teach the technical rock climbing, snow climbing, backcountry travel, and first aid skills
necessary for people to go with us into the mountains. It’s worth pointing out that our classes aren’t generally about creating independent mountaineers, climbers, hikers or skiers. They’re about preparing people to go with us into the mountains as a part of our community, as Mazamas. The Mazamas has traditionally published its summer climb schedule in this, the April issue of the Mazama Bulletin. The climbs you’ll see in the pages of this issue are led by volunteer climb leaders, and are fundamentally about sharing the experience and love of the mountains with others. These climbs symbolize the most traditional and core purpose of the Mazamas. Just like in the early part of the twentieth century, many of the leaders of our community today are members of the Mazamas, or once were. By taking people into the mountains in 2016, our volunteer leaders of are helping to make our community better by empowering and creating the leaders of tomorrow. I’d like to thank all of our leaders who volunteer to take people hiking and climbing in the mountains and teach them that they can be more and do more than they ever thought possible. I encourage you all to sign up for a Mazama climb this summer, and to thank your leaders for sharing the experience with you and continuing the Mazamas tradition of community building, leadership, and adventure!.
Lee Davis Executive Director
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES RESEARCH COMMITTEE ONGOING The Mazama Research Committee solicits and recommends for funding research proposals in the areas of Mountain Environments and Climbing Safety. We are looking to recruit several Mazama members with a scientific background. Please contact Research Committee Chair: Tom Bennett, nordlystom@gmail.com for more information.
STORYTELLERS, WRITERS, AND EDITORS WANTED! APRIL 5 Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your collegeera editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group? The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! We meet the first Tuesday of the month at 7 p.m. at the MMC. For more information, please contact Marketing & Publications Manager Sarah Bradham (sarah@mazamas.org) or Publications Chair Kristie Perry (publications@ mazamas.org).
TRAIL TENDING: ELK-KINGS APRIL 9 Help maintain Mazamas adopted trail in the Coast Range—the Elk to Kings Mountain Trail System. Ten to fifteen volunteers needed to clear drains, trim brush, and repair tread work. 8:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Email adam@mazamas.org for more information, or signup: tinyurl.com/zmptlm4 The stewardship team will also be out for the Smith Rock Spring Thing on April 30. Ask Adam about that as well!
TRAIL TRIPS COMMITTEE: APRIL 11
KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG
Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl. com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.
our great community of hike leaders. You should be a current Hike Leader and you must be able to commit to attending the monthly meetings as well as additional time for various committee projects. Contact Regis Krug, regis_krug@ mentor.com, if you’re interested.
CLASSIC MAZAMAS: APRIL 24 The Classics Committee plans events and activities for long-time Mazama members and those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. We are recruiting folks to serve on our planning team, which meets at 11 a.m. on the last Monday of every-other month. The team recruits leaders to put on monthly events, organizes quarterly luncheons and other social activities. Enjoy time and camaraderie with good folks while planning these events. Contact Kate Evans, EC liaison, kateevans97@gmail.com, to learn more.
PARTNER VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITY MOUNT HOOD SKI PATROL: MAY 21-22
The Mount Hood Ski Patrol is a volunteer organization that has been doing first-aid and transport for alpine and Nordic skiers as well as climbers, cyclists, and runners for over 75 years. Based in Government Camp, the patrol serves all of the ski areas on Mount Hood year-round. They are recruiting volunteers with extensive outdoor experience and enthusiasm, and will be holding try-outs and interviews the weekend of May 21-22. Interested in learning more? THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS Contact Dave Winterling, NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. winterlingdavid@gmail. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama member com for more information. since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
Be part of the effort to support the largest hiking program at the Mazamas. Your Trail Trips Committee orchestrates multiple hikes each week, including the weekday Rambles, and we are looking for several volunteers to serve on the committee. This is an opportunity for you to help steer the direction for Trail Trips, and support
Classified Advertising
APRIL 2016 5
Putting it Into Practice by Craig Karls Mountain climbing came into my life rather late, as I summited my first major peak right after graduating the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) in 2015. It was the annual Mother’s Day climb of Mount. St. Helens, two weeks before my 46th birthday. Looking back on it, I find it rather strange that it didn’t happen sooner. I was born and raised in Portland where views of Mt. Hood and Mount St. Helens form the backdrop of the city. Later, I attended college at Eastern Oregon University, where the campus is tucked between the Wallowa and Blue Mountains of northeast Oregon. Apropos, the mascot for the college is the Mountaineer. I did plenty of camping and hiking, but never took it to the next level, until last year. Since graduating BCEP, I have been on a few mountains. I have witnessed mountain goats and incredibly friendly chipmunks on Mt. Ellinor, freakishly warm weather on Mt. Hood, getting only three hours of sleep before climbing South Sister, having the weather deteriorate during our descent along with some rock fall pageantry on Middle Sister, saw amazing smoky skies from Mt. Thielsen, and was chased by yellow jackets on Union Peak. It was a joy to be on all those climbs, enjoying the views, the camaraderie of others, laugh about our inconveniences, and being able to summit all of those peaks with the exception of Mt. Hood. It was great to utilize some of my newly acquired skills, self-belaying up and rappelling down a snowy pitch on Middle Sister and climbing on a fixed line on the final ascent of Mt. Thielsen. 6 MAZAMAS
Beyond BCEP
The cherry on the sundae of course is reaching the summit—the views in the rarified atmosphere are amazing, there is a quiet splendor, an emotion that no words can convey, when I am standing on the summit. For me, it is like being in the presence of the divine. I am awash in gratitude when I reach the summit and look out at the horizon spread in all directions. It is a Maslow peak experience
are we at the f*#king summit yet?!” I do my best to be in the moment, where I’m at, wherever that may be on the route. Being in the moment allows me to change suffering into mere pain. Suffering is intolerable, pain is manageable. My original intent applying for BCEP was merely to obtain the skill set and safety awareness to summit a mountain safely. One serendipitous discovery taking BCEP
I do my best to be in the moment, where I’m at, wherever that may be on the route. Being in the moment allows me to change suffering into mere pain. Suffering is intolerable, pain is manageable. each and every time. Yet, the reaching the summit is only one reason why I climb. I do my best to constantly remind myself to find “the summit within” with every step I take in climbing to the mountain summit. Notice the wildflowers, listen to the wind, smell the Douglas firs—take it in and let it fill every particle of my being. But also feel my shoulders ache under the pack, feel the rain, snow, or sleet on my face, experience the laboratory aftertaste of the soy protein isolate in a Clif Bar—and celebrate these too. As a society, we tend to ignore and repress unpleasant sensations, feelings, and thoughts—becoming obsessed with instant gratification. Instead of, “Damn it,
was being introduced to rock climbing. Before going through BCEP, I never thought about rock climbing at all, had never been in a harness or a rock gym, and certainly didn’t know about any of the knots, techniques or gear. Now I have totally fallen in love with the sport. It is a sport that cultivates psychological focus, flexibility, stamina, patience, and humility. It is commonplace in our society to see people in abject misery doing a sport they despise in order to “get in shape”—or worse, they become two-legged hamsters, watching the regurgitated pablum of corporate media while they run but go nowhere on the treadmills and ellipticals
Above: The author on South Sister. Photo: Shaunessy Rogers.
in gyms that populate cities everywhere— squeak, squeak, squeak! Get out there and find something you love which brings joy and meaning into your life, for heaven’s sake. Keep searching until you find it. Fortunately, I have enjoyed hiking for many years and am now delighted I can add climbing to my repertoire. Another pleasant aspect of embracing a sport which hitherto I knew nothing about is it has allowed me to experience what is called “shoshin” or “beginner’s mind” in Zen Buddhism. Beginner’s mind is having a fresh openness, a child-like eagerness, and a lack of expectation or preconception of the subject. This child-like eagerness and lack of preconceived notions is said to allow a student to be in a perpetual state of learning. Since I am so new to the sport, it’s delightful to meet anyone who is a rock climber as I am able to learn from just about everyone I meet. In a year’s time, it has been fun to make a bit of progress, starting out at 5.6s and now doing 5.10s. If I am able to maintain beginner’s mind, I believe it will greatly accelerate the learning process. Another principle the concept of beginner’s mind espouses is to “pay it forward”—passing on what you have learned to others will help you to learn more about it through teaching it. Indeed, if you truly love something, you owe it to the world to transmit your love of it to others. Since I have fallen madly in love
with climbing, I volunteered to be a BCEP assistant this year. It is the very least that I can do. Added benefits include broadening one’s network of people who love climbing as much as you do, and yes, learning about climbing from different perspectives. It is by teaching that we learn. If you got any value out of your BCEP experience, I urge you to consider volunteering as an assistant to “pay it forward.” Beginner’s mind states that there is always more to learn, and I have taken that to heart—having taken a Technique 101 class last winter offered by the Portland Rock Gym. I am also planning on taking a lead climbing class at Portland Rock Gym this summer, and it is my intention to apply for Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) this year with the Mazamas. For me, it was a better fit to wait a year to apply for ICS than to apply fresh out of BCEP. It gave me time to apply the principles I learned, cultivate my climbing skills, and confirm that climbing will indeed be a long-term hobby of mine. I have been told ICS is quite a commitment, but anything worthwhile in life requires sacrifice. What my first year of climbing has taught me is it is primarily a psychological sport. One must be courageous; you need to transform a fear of heights into a respect of heights. One must be patient; others on a climb may be slower than you. One must be persistent; it sometimes takes dogged determination to climb a particular route
on a wall “cleanly.” One must be humble; know your limitations, push your envelope, but don’t become reckless. One must be selfless; sometimes you need to sacrifice your needs to help others on a climb, because one day it may be you that needs help. One must stop comparing oneself to others; the only person with whom you should be competing is the person you were yesterday. Since BCEP, I have made great friends through the program, often hiking, camping, snowshoeing, and climbing. Some of them have become like family to me. I am really looking forward to climbing season this year; eager to bag more summits, go hiking, backpacking, and camping, as well as doing some cragging at Smith Rock. For all the newcomers out there, I am testament that it’s never too late to start climbing—or any endeavor for that matter. What matters is if your heart and mind are in it, then learning the necessary skills, and most importantly, putting it into practice. Learning the necessary skills but not using them is a terrible waste of time. Learning these skills but not passing them along to others is selfish. I look forward to having the privilege of climbing with some of you soon. Now let’s get out there—there are a multitude of mountains and crags waiting to meet us.
APRIL 2016 7
MT. SHUKSAN: FISHER CHIMNEYS A Guaranteed Epic
by Vaqas Malik
T
he Fisher Chimneys route up Mt. Shuksan guarantees an epic climb and the most bang for your buck. For a climber with Intermediate Climbing School (ICS)-level skills, this climb will draw on most of such skills, as well as lots of physical and mental endurance. The demands are high but so are the rewards. This is perhaps the most scenic alpine route in the Pacific Northwest. A spoiler alert warning is not warranted here because knowing more about the route in advance will only help you get better prepared for this challenging climb. The adventure starts with a drive through the gorgeous Mt. Baker 8 MAZAMAS
Wilderness. From the trailhead, the first milestone on the approach hike is Lake Ann, which will tempt you to camp there. Unless you are starting from the trailhead in the afternoon, however, camping at the beautiful Lake Ann will set you back on your schedule as so much of the route still lies ahead. From Lake Ann, the trail climbs up and around the Lower Curtis Glacier, passing through dramatic wilderness scenery. After scrambling through talus fields, you will arrive at the base of the Chimneys. From here, it cannot be emphasized enough how important it is to start on the right path forward as the Fisher Chimneys present a significant section of class 3 and class 4 terrain, with a few class 5 obstacles. At the top of the Chimneys you will find a beautiful camp site right under Winnie’s Slide. From there, be prepared for some high angle action to the top of the Slide, which brings you to the base of the Upper Curtis Glacier and some
bivy sites with perhaps the best views in the Cascades. The route steepens sharply at the Upper Curtis Glacier and crossing the Glacier offers some exciting navigation challenges, along with fantastic views of Mt. Baker. At the end of the Upper Curtis Glacier you will face another high angle snow challenge--Hell’s Highway--which connects to the Sulphide Glacier route. A moderate snow field and some moat crossing brings you to the base of the summit pyramid. Here, some thousand feet of fun scrambling provides the final stage to the summit. To avoid the crowds, you can opt for a more sporting route with some sections of low 5th class climbing. Congratulations, you have arrived at the summit! Now be ready for the long, technical descent through all of the above mentioned sections. Coming prepared for an emergency bivy can pay high dividends. Even if it’s type 2 fun, for sure the views will be amazing.
2016
Oregon Climbs
10 MAZAMAS
Washington Climbs
There are currently more than 170 climbs on the summer climb schedule with more being added every day. On the next few pages you’ll find a complete list of climbs, including: peak, route, dates, leader, spots available, climb codes, and more. Please note: Mount St. Helens has detailed rules. People frequently drop out of a climb for a variety of reasons, so don’t hesitate to put in a climb card for full climbs.
Before applying for a climb, go to mazamas.org/climb for FULL climb details. öThere is a $15 permit and $7 processing fee for each climber on Mount St. Helens; the fees are nonrefundable once the permit is paid for with the park system. For most Mount St. Helens climbs: Send a $22 check to the climb leader with your application (please read the online notes section of the climb schedule to determine if the leader is making other permit arrangements). If you are not accepted on the climb, your $22 will be returned with your climb card. If you are accepted, the permit fee is non-refundable. If the climb is canceled by the leader for any reason, you will not receive a refund. If you need to cancel your position on the climb, your permit can by transferred to another climber only with the permission of the leader.
APRIL 2016 11
Applying for a Mazama Climb
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 MAZAMAS
Find a climb you want to join. Review the climb schedule: mazamas.org/climb.
Purchase a Climb Card. Online or in person at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. $20 member (up to 4 at this rate for BCEP students)/$30 nonmembers. Review the full details of the climb online. Go to mazamas.org/climb. Some climbs have detailed information that isn’t printed in the Bulletin.
Fill out a Climb Card. Need help with the climb card process? See the next page.
Insert the completed climb card into an envelope. Address, stamp, and mail the climb card. Mail to the climb leader, not the Mazama Mountaineering Center.
Mail on April 15 for your best chance of being accepted on popular routes. Cards mailed before April 15 will not be accepted.
Wait. Climb leaders have numerous cards to review. Some wait until just a few weeks before the climb to choose their team. CLIMB! If you are listed as an alternate for a climb, keep your schedule open. Alternate spots frequently open closer to climb date. If the climb and alternate list are full, return the climb card to the MMC for a new card. Keep Checking! Didn’t get accepted on your early season climbs? Don’t stop trying! Late season climbs often leave the trailhead with spaces available due to cancellations AND climb leaders continue to add climbs throughout the season.
Summer Climb Schedule
The next four pages contain the current summer climb schedule and climb leader information. Before submitting a climb card, go to mazamas.org/climb and review the online schedule for additional details that are not printed here. Don’t forget climbs are continually added to the online schedule throughout the summer—this is just the beginning!
KEY:
Climbs Grades:
• + Indicates a pack in to a base camp on route • ö Permitting rules for Mt. St. Helens, see page 11. • A: Adjacent climbs. MAY sign up for both (two climbs in the same area.) • R: Relaxed pace (those of any age desiring a slower paced climb) • E: Exploratory (the leader has not climbed this route before) • F: Family Climbs. Slower pace and child-friendly • H: Hike-to-the-Summit. Moderate climbs for experienced hikers.
• L: Linked climbs. MUST sign up for both. • N: Novice. Climb leader is willing to take inexperienced climbers • P: Provisional (A new climb leader is being evaluated by an experienced climb leader.) • S: Ski Mountaineering • Y: Adventurous Young Mazamas (under 40) • BCEP: Leader will take 2016 BCEP Grads • ICS: Leader will take 2016 ICS Grads • AR: Leader will take 2016 AR Grads • ASI: Leader will 2016 ASI Grads
A: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, and self-arrest. B: A-level skills, plus glacier travel & roped climbing. C: B-level skills, plus crevasse rescue skills, belaying, rappelling and low 5th-class rock climbing. D: C-level skills, plus travel on steep snow slopes and 5th-class rock climbing. E: Multi-pitch technical routes; same as D but with a high degree of self-sufficiency and proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing highangle leads, setting protection and anchors.
Dep.
Ret.
Peak, Route
Grade & Codes
Leader
Size
Avail. #
5/1–AM 5/1–4AM 5/3–2PM 5/5–PM 5/6–PM 5/6–5PM 5/6–PM 5/6–PM 5/6–AM 5/7–PM 5/7–AM 5/8–AM 5/9–12AM 5/12–11PM 5/14–PM 5/14–AM 5/14–AM 5/18–AM 5/18–11PM 5/20–AM 5/21–AM 5/21–AM 5/22–AM 5/23–AM 5/24–AM 5/24–11PM 5/26–AM 5/27–PM 5/27–5PM 5/28–PM 5/28–AM 5/29–AM 5/30–AM 5/30–AM 6/1–11PM 6/2–PM 6/3–4PM 6/3–AM 6/4–AM 6/4–10PM 6/4–PM
5/1–9PM 5/1–5PM 5/4–3PM 5/6–PM 5/7–PM 5/7–PM 5/7–PM 5/7–AM 5/6–PM 5/8–AM 5/7–PM 5/8–PM 5/9–4PM 5/13–1PM 5/15–PM 5/14–PM 5/14–PM 5/18–PM 5/19–4PM 5/20–PM 5/21–PM 5/21–PM 5/22–PM 5/25–PM 5/24–PM 5/25–4PM 5/29–PM 5/28–PM 5/30–PM 5/29–AM 5/29–PM 5/2–PM 6/1–PM 5/31–PM 6/2–4PM 6/3–PM 6/6–6PM 6/3–PM 6/5–PM 6/5–PM 6/5–PM
Lane Peak, The Zipper Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim Mt. Hood, South Side Copper Mountain, Ellinor-Wagonwheel Traverse Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Wy’east Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flowsö Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flowsö Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Rooster Rock, South Face Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Ellinor & Mt. Washington, Traverse Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully Mauna Loa, Ainapo Northeast Rift Traverse Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. Hood, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake
C(ICS) A(BCEP)(ICS) B+(E) B(BCEP) A(E) A(BCEP) B(BCEP) C(E)(BCEP)(ICS) A B A(BCEP)(ICS) A(R)(BCEP) B(N)(BCEP) C(ICS) B B(N)(BCEP) C(BCEP) B(BCEP)(ICS) B(N)(BCEP) B B(E)(BCEP)(ICS) B(BCEP)(ICS) B(R)(ICS) D(E)(AR)(ICS) B(BCEP) B(N)(BCEP) B+(BCEP) B(BCEP) B+(E)(ICS) C(BCEP) B+(N)(E)(BCEP)(ICS) A+(E) B(L#1117)(BCEP) B(L#1173)(BCEP) B(N)(BCEP) A C+(R)(BCEP)(ICS) B(BCEP) B(E)(L#1038)(BCEP) B(E)(BCEP)(ICS) B(E)(L#1105)(BCEP)
Vaqas Malik Steve Warner Vaqas Malik Gary Bishop Andrew Bodien Patrice Cook Rico Micallef Azure Olson Doug Wilson Darrell Weston George Shay Bob Breivogel Tim Scott Larry Beck Chris Kruell Richard Bronder Gary Bishop Bruce Yatvin Tim Scott Amy Mendenhall Walter Keutel Patrice Cook Bob Breivogel Gary Ballou Joseph Eberhardt Tim Scott Larry Beck Rico Micallef Lynne Pedersen Darrell Weston Tian Lan Kevin Clark Marty Scott Shirley Welch Tim Scott Doug Wilson Bob Breivogel Gary Bishop Rico Micallef Kirk Newgard Rico Micallef
6 12 8 10 6 12 8 8 8 12 12 12 12 8 8 9 12 8 12 8 10 10 8 6 8 12 10 8 8 12 8 6 8 8 12 8 10 8 8 8 8
5 11 7 8 4 9 7 7 7 9 10 11 10 6 7 7 0 7 10 6 9 8 7 4 7 10 6 7 6 9 7 2 6 6 10 7 9 6 6 7 6
1204 1074 1186 1027 1202 1153 1048 1126 1077 1073 1066 1156 1189 1118 1025 1112 1212 1098 1190 1026 1134 1152 1158 1040 1093 1191 1119 1050 1163 1071 1171 1142 1173 1117 1192 1078 1157 1028 1105 1165 1038 APRIL 2016 13
Dep.
Ret.
Peak, Route
Grade & Codes
6/5–AM 6/6–AM 6/7–AM 6/7–10PM 6/8–AM 6/10–PM 6/10–AM 6/10–PM 6/10–PM 6/10–AM 6/11–AM 6/11–AM 6/11–AM 6/11–11PM 6/11–AM 6/13–11PM 6/13–PM 6/15–PM 6/17–AM 6/17–AM 6/18–AM 6/18–AM 6/18–AM 6/18–AM 6/18–AM 6/19–AM 6/21–AM 6/21–AM 6/23–AM 6/23–AM 6/23–AM 6/23–6PM 6/24–PM 6/24–5AM 6/24–PM 6/24–AM 6/24–PM 6/26–PM 6/27–PM 6/30–PM 6/30–AM 7/1–AM 7/2–AM 7/5–AM 7/7–AM 7/8–PM 7/9–8AM 7/9–AM 7/10–AM 7/10–AM 7/11–PM 7/12–AM 7/14–6PM 7/14–6PM 7/14–AM 7/14–6PM 7/15–AM 7/16–AM 7/16–AM 7/16–AM 7/17–AM 7/17–AM 7/18–PM 7/19–AM 7/20–AM
6/5–PM 6/6–PM 6/7–PM 6/8–4PM 6/9–PM 6/11–PM 6/10–PM 6/11–AM 6/11–PM 6/10–PM 6/11–PM 6/12–PM 6/12–PM 6/12–5PM 6/13–PM 6/14–PM 6/14–PM 6/16–PM 6/19–PM 6/18–PM 6/19–PM 6/19–PM 6/20–PM 6/19–PM 6/18–PM 6/19–PM 6/25–PM 6/25–PM 6/25–PM 6/26–PM 6/25–PM 6/26–PM 6/26–PM 6/25–9PM 6/26–PM 6/26–PM 6/26–PM 6/27–PM 6/28–PM 7/1–PM 7/2–PM 7/3–PM 7/5–PM 7/8–PM 7/8–PM 7/9–PM 7/10–5PM 7/11–PM 7/13–PM 7/12–PM 7/12–PM 7/13–PM 7/18–10PM 7/17–PM 7/17–PM 7/18–10PM 7/18–PM 7/17–PM 7/19–PM 7/16–PM 7/20–PM 7/19–PM 7/19–PM 7/20–PM 7/24–PM
Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Middle Sister, North Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute The Brothers, South Couloir/Lena Lake Mt. Hood, South Side Stevens Peak, West Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Hood, Sunshine Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Deception, Royal Basin Mt. Fricaba-Petunia Peak, Ridge Traverse Martin Peak, Royal Basin Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Buckner, SW Route Copper Mountain, Ellinor-Wagonwheel Traverse Ingalls Peak, South Face Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lakes/Standard Route The Brothers, South Couloir/Lena Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Copper and Iron, Tahoma Creek Mt. Ararat and Mt. Satulick, Kautz Creek Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Adams, South Side South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Naches and Tahtlum Peaks, Chinook Pass Dewey Peak–Seymour Peak, Chinook Pass Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Sahale Peak, Quien Sabe Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Route Brown Peak–Slide Mountain, Palisade Lake Trail Marcus Peak–The Palisades, Palisade Lake Trail Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier
B(N)(L#1069)(BCEP)(ICS) Alex Fox C(N)(L#1068)(BCEP)(ICS) Alex Fox C(E)(ICS) Joseph Eberhardt B(N)(BCEP) Tim Scott A(R) Joe Whittington A(F)(E)(FM101) Justin Rotherham B Amy Mendenhall B Darrell Weston B Chris Kruell B(A#1115)(BCEP)(ICS) Walter Keutel B(A#1114)(BCEP)(ICS) Walter Keutel B+(BCEP) Bruce Yatvin B+(E)(BCEP)(ICS) George Shay B(BCEP)(ICS) Steve Warner B+(E) Andrew Bodien B(E)(BCEP)(ICS) Lynne Pedersen A(E) Doug Wilson B(BCEP) Rico Micallef B+(BCEP) Larry Beck C+(ICS) Gary Ballou B(L#1059) James Jula B+(BCEP) Bill McLoughlin B+(BCEP)(ICS) Bob Breivogel B(L#1058) James Jula B(N)(L#1109)(BCEP) George Cummings C(N)(L#1108)(BCEP) George Cumming C+(R)(E)(L#1200/1201)(BCEP) Paul Steger C(L#1199/1200)(BCEP)(ICS) Paul Steger C+(R)(E)(L#1199/1200)(BCEP) Paul Steger C+(E) Chris Kruell B+ Bruce Yatvin C+(E) Linda E. Mark A(E) Kevin Clark D+(E)(AR)(ICS) Vaqas Malik A(F)(A#1088)(FM101) Justin Rotherham B+(E) Jon Major B(F)(A#1089)(FM101) Justin Rotherham A(E)(A#1081) Doug Wilson A(E)(A#1080) Doug Wilson B+(BCEP) Gary Bishop C+ Michael Hortsch B+(E)(BCEP) Joseph Eberhardt C+(E)(ICS) Andrew Bodien C+(ICS) Rico Micallef A+ Elizabeth Copeland A(BCEP) Lori (Freeman) LaDuke A+(BCEP)(ICS) Steve Warner C+(E) Jon Major C+(E)(ICS) Bruce Yatvin C+(ICS) Alexander Fox B(E)(A#1090) Doug Wilson B(E)(A#1143) Doug Wilson B+(L#1194)(ICS) Tim Scott B+(E) Linda E. Mark C+(E) Chris Kruell B+(E)(L#1195)(ICS) Tim Scott C+(ICS) Bill McLoughlin A+ James Jula C+(ICS) Larry Beck A+(BCEP) Patrice Cook C+(E) Rico Micallef C+ Marty Scott A(E)(A#1086) Doug Wilson B(E)(A#1082) Doug Wilson C+(E) Michael Hortsch
14 MAZAMAS
Leader
Size
Avail. #
10 10 8 12 12 12 8 12 8 10 10 12 10 8 6 8 6 8 10 8 8 12 10 8 10 10 8 8 8 8 12 6 8 6 12 8 12 6 6 10 8 8 6 8 12 12 12 8 8 8 6 6 8 8 8 8 12 12 8 12 8 8 5 5 8
8 8 7 10 11 7 6 10 7 9 9 11 10 7 4 7 5 6 8 4 6 4 9 6 8 8 7 7 7 4 11 5 7 5 6 7 5 5 5 8 7 7 4 7 10 10 11 7 6 6 5 5 6 7 1 6 0 10 4 10 6 6 4 4 7
1068 1069 1094 1193 1198 1087 1024 1072 1022 1114 1115 1099 1176 1106 1140 1166 1079 1036 1151 1043 1058 1170 1164 1059 1108 1109 1199 1201 1200 1021 1100 1208 1130 1188 1089 1139 1088 1080 1081 1029 1162 1091 1085 1041 1123 1177 1075 1136 1101 1141 1143 1090 1195 1209 1020 1194 1056 1182 1120 1155 1042 1174 1082 1086 1172
Dep.
Ret.
Peak, Route
Grade & Codes
7/21–5PM 7/23–AM 7/24–AM 7/27–AM 7/28–AM 7/28–AM 7/29–AM 7/29–AM 7/30–AM 7/30–AM 7/31–AM 8/4–5PM 8/4–AM 8/4–AM 8/4–AM 8/5–AM 8/5–AM 8/6–PM 8/12–AM 8/12–AM 8/12–AM 8/12–PM 8/12–AM 8/13–AM 8/13–AM 8/14–AM 8/15–AM 8/17–AM 8/18–AM 8/19–AM 8/20–AM 8/20–PM 8/21–AM 8/25–AM 8/25–6PM 8/26–AM 8/26–PM 8/26–AM 8/27–5AM 9/3–AM 9/3–AM 9/4–AM 9/9–AM 9/9–3PM 9/9–AM 9/9–AM 9/10–AM 9/11–AM 9/12–AM 9/14–AM 9/15–AM 9/15–AM 9/16–AM 9/16–PM 9/17–AM 9/18–AM 9/18–AM 9/24–AM 9/24–PM 9/25–AM 9/25–AM 9/26–AM 9/29–AM
7/24–10PM 7/23–PM 7/26–PM 7/31–PM 7/31–PM 7/31–PM 7/30–PM 7/31–PM 7/31–PM 8/1–PM 8/2–PM 8/7–5PM 8/5–PM 8/6–PM 8/4–PM 8/7–PM 8/7–PM 8/8–PM 8/14–PM 8/12–PM 8/14–PM 8/13–PM 8/14–PM 8/14–PM 8/14–PM 8/15–PM 8/16–PM 8/18–PM 8/19–PM 8/20–PM 8/20–PM 8/21–PM 8/21–PM 8/26–PM 8/28–5PM 8/26–PM 8/27–PM 8/27–PM 8/27–6PM 9/5–PM 9/4–PM 9/4–PM 9/11–PM 9/10–8PM 9/11–PM 9/8–PM 9/11–PM 9/11–PM 9/12–PM 9/18–PM 9/16–PM 9/16–PM 9/17–PM 9/17–PM 9/18–PM 9/18–PM 9/18–PM 9/25–PM 9/25–PM 9/25–PM 9/25–PM 9/27–PM 10/2–PM
Mt. Buckindy, North Side C+(ICS) Mt. Adams, South Side A+(BCEP)(ICS) Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier C+(E) Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier C+(E)(BCEP) Ingalls Peak, South Face D+(L#1047)(AR) Mt. Stuart, West Ridge D+(L#1046)(AR) Mt. Adams, South Side A+(BCEP) Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats A+(R)(H)(N) Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge B+(E)(BCEP) Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier C+(E)(ICS) Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier C(BCEP) Forbidden Peak, West Ridge D+(AR) Mt. Adams, South Side A+(BCEP) Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys C+(E)(ICS) Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö A(F)(FM101) Mt. Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier C+(E) Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir B+(R)(ICS) West McMillan Spire, Terror Glacier B+(E) Broken Top, Green Lakes–NW Ridge B+(L#1053)(BCEP)(ICS) Broken Top, Green Lakes–NW Ridge B(BCEP) Kyes Peak, South Ridge B+(E) Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats A(H) South Sister, Green Lakes A+(L#1049) Broken Top, Green Lakes–NW Ridge B+(BCEP) Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier/North Ridge B+(E)(BCEP)(ICS) Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm–Cascade Pass B+(E) Mt. Fremont, Frozen Lake A(R)(E)(A#1131) Yakima Peak, West Chute A(R)(A#1132) Cowlitz Chimney, West Side B+(E) North Sister, South Ridge C+(ICS) Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard Route B(N)(L#1111)(BCEP) Mt. Stone, West Ridge B(E) Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek A(N)(E)(L#1110)(BCEP) Aurora Peak & Tokaloo Rock, St. Andrew’s Lake A+(E) Black Peak, NE Ridge Route D+(E)(ICS) Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route B(BCEP) South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(H) Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge B+ Mt. Washington, North Ridge C(ICS) Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall D(E) South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(H)(BCEP)(ICS) Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö A(H) Mt. Stuart, West Ridge D+(E)(AR) Mt. Washington, North Ridge C North Sister, South Ridge C+ Plummer Peak, Standard Route A(R) North Sister, SE Ridge C+(ICS) Mt. Washington, North Ridge C Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge C(BCEP)(ICS) Paulina Peak, West Saddle A(R)(E) Granite Mountain and Trico Mountain, Robin Lakes A+(E)(BCEP) Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge C(E)(ICS) Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö A(N)(BCEP) Mt. Washington, North Ridge C Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route B(E)(BCEP) Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridgeö A(H)(F) South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(H) Broken Top, Green Lakes–NW Ridge B+(L#1168)(BCEP) Tamanos Mountain, Owyhigh Trail A(E) South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(N)(E)(BCEP) South Sister, Green Lakes A+(L#1169)(BCEP) Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge C Thompson Peak, South Couloir A+(E)
Leader
Size
Avail. #
Bob Breivogel Patrice Cook Rico Micallef Gary Bishop Gary Ballou Gary Ballou Lori Freeman-LaDuke Joe Whittington Rico Micallef Joseph Eberhardt Larry Beck Vaqas Malik Donna Vandall Larry Beck Amy Mendenhall Rico Micallef Bob Breivogel Andrew Bodien Gary Ballou John Godino Kevin Clark Lori Freeman-LaDuke Amy Mendenhall Chris Kruell Walter Keutel James Jula Ray Sheldon Ray Sheldon Doug Wilson Josh Lockerby Richard Bronder Jon Major Richard Bronder Doug Wilson Tim Scott Gary Bishop Lori Freeman-LaDuke Donna Vandall John Meckel James Jula George Shay Bruce Yatvin Azure Olson Josh Lockerby Jill Kellogg Ray Sheldon Bill McLoughlin Bruce Yatvin Alexander Fox Joe Whittington Donna Vandall Joseph Eberhardt Richard Bronder Chris Kruell Andrew Bodien Amy Mendenhall Bruce Yatvin Bill McLoughlin Jon Major Richard Bronder Bill McLoughlin Marty Scott Kevin Clark
8 12 8 8 6 6 12 12 8 8 8 6 10 8 10 6 8 6 12 12 8 12 12 10 10 8 12 12 5 12 12 8 12 5 6 8 12 10 10 6 12 10 4 9 6 12 6 8 8 12 10 8 12 6 6 10 12 12 8 10 12 8 8
7 10 6 6 4 4 10 10 7 7 7 5 8 6 8 4 7 4 10 11 0 10 8 8 8 6 10 10 4 10 10 7 10 4 4 6 10 9 8 4 10 8 3 7 5 10 0 7 6 11 9 7 10 4 4 8 11 4 7 8 4 6 7
1159 1154 1044 1030 1046 1047 1178 1103 1039 1092 1122 1187 1146 1121 1051 1045 1160 1203 1049 1213 1076 1179 1053 1206 1116 1183 1133 1131 1083 1150 1110 1137 1111 1084 1196 1031 1180 1148 1205 1184 1067 1062 1127 1211 1060 1132 1167 1102 1181 1197 1147 1095 1104 1207 1210 1052 1107 1169 1138 1113 1168 1175 1185
APRIL 2016 15
1 2
REVIEW. Review the climb details online at
Familiarize yourself with the rules & regulations of Mazama climbs before you apply. Read this page in its entirety: tinyurl.com/MazClimbRules
mazamas.org/climb to ensure that the dates, time, location, etc ... work for your schedule.
Climb Info. Write the climb number, dates of the climb, name of the mountain, and climb leader in the upper left.
3 4
Are you currently enrolled in Basic Climbing Education Program? Look for climbs with “BCEP” in the Grad Emphasis field.
Climbing Education. Include both your Mazama and non-Mazama training here.
5 6
Climbing Experience. Detail your climbing experience, including mountain, route, year, climb leader. You may attach a separate sheet of paper.
Personal Information. Complete this section in its entirety; any medical/physical conditions will be kept confidential.
Signature Required! The standard boilerplate language (read both the front and back). Sign on the front.
7 8 9
Leader Response Card. The applicant needs to fill out the top portion—your name, climb dates, climb number, mountain, and climb leader.
Climb leader addresses are listed in the April Bulletin (issuu.com/mazamas). Mazama members can find climb leader addresses on the member section of the website.
Flip. Flip the card over and fill out the backside. Write YOUR mailing address in the addressee area and attach a stamp.
Mail! Insert the entire card into an envelope, address to the CLIMB LEADER, attach a stamp, and send it via snail mail.
Mount St. Helens has an additional $22 fee due to a permiting system, you may need to include a check. See the climb details to learn how to submit this fee to the climb leader.
APRIL 2016 17
18 MAZAMAS
CLIMBING THE LIGHTNING ROD OF THE CASCADES by Eileen Kiely
E
very time I rap off the summit block of Mt. Thielsen, I swear it is my last time. Eight summits on the same route ought to be enough. And yet, especially since I started leading a Basic Climbing Educationp Program (BCEP) team, I always find a reason to go back. Mt. Thielsen is special to me because it was the first technical climbing I did solo and the first rock lead I set for other climbers. If you know what a rock chicken I am, it is fairly surprising to know that I free climbed it my first time. But I needed another rock summit to qualify for Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) in 2006. There’s fear, and then there is the determination to get into ICS. ICS wins. I found some awesome friction rock that made the route up better than my beta led me to expect, and I made my own choices about the route I took up and down the summit block. I really felt like a climber that day! When planning my provisional climb, it occurred to me that (in the boom snow spring of 2008) Thielsen would be a great mixed climb for BCEP grads. David Zeps, my climb leader and mentor, agreed with my crazy plan. We had a beautiful day, and with snow covering that heinous scree we could stay right of the normal “summer” route on a direct line to the saddle. We made good time, and got steep snow practice with our ice axes right up to the summit block, where I set a fixed line to the summit and everyone rapped off, no incidents up or down. It was pretty much a perfect day–-until we got back to the trees and were chased by killer mosquitoes all the way to the parking lot. Insect repellent is not an optional portion of the program on this mountain. Since then, I have always scheduled Thielsen for Memorial Day, or the first two weeks of June. These low snow years have not been kind, and I’ve struggled to find a good route through the scree up to the fun part (hint: stay high and stay left after you
leave the PCT). The fun starts when you get to the red-orange rock outcropping at about 8,200 feet. There are a number of ways to get on top with a few easy maneuvers. If you haven’t put your helmet on, do it here. As you move right and upwards, the rock changes to gray, and the maneuvers get a little trickier, but the rock is solid as you climb upward to the The summit of Mt. Thielsen from the PCT. Left to right , Jennifer Winslow, Sarah Miller, Stephanie Buer, Lori Coyner, Eileen Kiely (Leader), Amanda Pantovich, Kirsten gully and the last Labudda (Assistant Leader). Photo credit: Unknown scramble to the saddle. The summit Grinch. And yet, it is totally within a new block rock is solid, BCEP grad’s abilities. and the climbing is easy, but the exposure Early season, when there is snow, climbers is spectacular. On a Mazama climb you will use every single skill taught in BCEP, which harness up here and climb up on a fixed is a great start for a climbing career. line. Descent is either a down climb on a The trailhead on OR 138 is open year fixed line, or a rap, depending on the leader’s round. The summit block is the only place preference. After carefully scrambling outside of Crater Lake National Park where back down to the PCT intersection, take you can actually see Crater Lake. On a clear a break, put on insect repellent, and then day, the views of Mt. McLoughlin and Mt. enjoy an easy hike back down to the cars. I Shasta are amazing. You get see the lightning recommend a post climb gathering at South strikes on the summit rock. Side Pizza, on the south end of Diamond But be aware—recent snow fall can turn Lake, for great views, pizza, and craft beer. the easy summit climb into a challenging I have a home in Sunriver, so I invite my one, and if a storm is moving in, descend team down on Friday night and we leave immediately. Thielsen’s nickname is “The early on Saturday morning for the day. Lightning Rod of the Cascades,” because Often, some of the team decides to camp at its relative prominence attracts those cool Diamond Lake instead, so they can explore lightning strikes you see on the summit. Crater Lake the day after the climb. Thielsen also makes a great linked climb So apart from the heinous scree, what with Mt. Bailey across Diamond Lake, or recommends Thielsen? Union Peak on the south side of Crater Lake From many angles it looks impossible to NP. They are both half-day scrambles, but climb. Climbers often gasp at the imposing with fun challenges and features. Take a long summit view from the PCT intersection: weekend and enjoy this beautiful part of “We’re doing that?” One of my climbers Oregon! compared it to Mt. Crumpit, home of The
APRIL 2016 19
Mazama Mountain Science School by Kati Mayfield
W
e’ve just wrapped up the third and final session of this year’s Mazama Mountain Science School. What a year we had! The program staff have referred to this year as our second pilot year— the actual pilot ran in February of 2015, but since there was no snow that year, it’s an entirely new experience to have snow up at the Mazama Lodge for the program this year. 155 students from four different Portland area schools (Lynch View Elementary, Sacramento Elementary, Hayhurst Elementary and Irvington Elementary) spent the three day, two night program gleefully exploring and playing in the snow. Designed and run in partnership with the Multnomah Education Service District (MESD) Outdoor School, the Mazama Mountain Science School is an experiential education program for 5th grade students and their teachers to immerse themselves in the wonders of the alpine environment. Students cycle through a series of 14 interactive learning stations which were designed to complement the classroom and Oregon state learning objectives in math, science and geography. These concepts come alive on the mountain through activities like an orienteering scavenger hunt, a wildlife identification snowshoe hike, and sledding races through which students measure mathematical variables. The goal with this program is to give hundreds of Portland-area 5th graders a chance to experience the mountain each year. With the partners we’ve worked with so far, over 25% of the students were visiting Mount Hood for the first time. Next year we aim to expand the program to 400500 students. This year we are especially proud of all of the community support which went into making the program happen. Mazama members contributed greatly through $**,*** of donations, ** of which came through the Portland Alpine Fest 20 MAZAMAS
silent auction. We also had three Mazama volunteers, Paul Steger, Colleen Sinsky and Rebecca Olsen, join as program chaperones for one session of mountain science school. The Gray Family Foundation provided an $8,500 grant to cover part of the program cost for one of the schools, Lynch View Elementary; and the school then overcame many obstacles to get approval from its school board to attend the program. MSR donated 10 pairs of snowshoes and gave us 17 more pairs below cost, Leki donated 20 trekking poles. Our local partners Adventures Without Limits and Northwest Outward Bound School also contributed outdoor gear for the kids.
Charles Barker, the Mazama Lodge Manager, and caretakers April Bolstridge and Adam Schoff went above and beyond to provide a welcoming programming space to our students; and the program staff worked day and night to create an incredible experience. Mazama Mountain Science School would not be possible without the excellent program staff, contracted through our partner MESD Outdoor School. Shauna Stevenson, a.k.a. “Chomps” is our site supervisor, and was joined by Emily “Goose” Lootens, Emily “Fern” Sarich, Jennifer “Pheff ” Basham, Colin “Optional” Sanders and “Tractor”.
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A Distinctly Northwest Climbing Tradition by Sojo Hendrix
O
ne of my favorite Northwest traditions is the annual Mother’s Day climb of Mount Saint Helens. What makes it so special? The celebration of moms and the haute couture of course! The tradition, started in 1987 by Northwest mountaineer Kathy Phibbs, is a climb to honor moms everywhere. And doing so means wearing your Sunday best, right? The mantra being “everyone wears a dress.” If you ask me I’d say the guys always steal the show. Covering those warm under layers are evening gowns, tutus, and basic frocks alike. And don’t forget to accessorize! Put a bird on it, or a hat, or sassy scarf, or silly socks. If your closet doesn’t yield the right attire, a trip to Goodwill or Value Village may be just what you need to perfect your look. The event is quite a spectacle as you might imagine with some very creative ensembles on display. Lots of Mazamas participate, many of whom climb as themed groups. What a great way to kick off the summer climbing season! Because of its popularity, there have been some changes to the climb in recent years. The permits are still $22 from April 1–October 31, but now there is a 500 permits per day limit between April 1 and May 14. Just a couple of years ago there was no limit during this time frame. The permit limit drops to its usual 100 per day between May 15 and October 31. During the winter climbing season, November 1– March 31, there is no fee and no daily limit, but you must still self-register and sign
out at the trailhead. As of this writing, this year’s 500 permits are already sold out for Mother’s Day, May 8, 2016. But fear not. You can usually find some for sale on the website purmit.com. Most years the Mother’s Day climb starts from the Marble Mountain Sno-Park and follows the Worm Flows winter climbing route. This makes the climb 12 miles round trip with 5500 feet of elevation gain. Caption: Tom Davidson, Jean Cavanaugh, Judy Lundeen, and Doug Briedwell on the summit on Mount St. Helens on Mothers You need a Washington State Sno-Park pass since Oregon and Day. Photo credit: Ann Ames Washington have decided not to climb into an overnight event and have recognize each other in sno-park matters. pre-climb festivities. I prefer that rather During low snow years, like 2015, the than a 4:30 a.m. departure from Portland. Climber’s Bivouac trailhead may be open. Or there are hotel and other options in Here a Northwest Forest Pass will do. nearby Cougar, Washington. The Climber’s Bivy accesses the Monitor If you haven’t already, consider making Ridge summer route and is 10 miles this annual event a tradition of your own. round trip with 4,500 feet of gain. There is But don’t forget to get your permits early! parking and available pit toilets at Marble They go on sale each year on February 1 on Mountain and Climber’s Bivy, but no water the Mount Saint Helens Institute website, so be sure to bring what you need! mshinstitute.org. With primitive camping at both trailheads, you can turn the Mother’s Day
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APRIL 2016 23
MY MOST MEMORABLE
MT. HOOD CLIMBING ADVENTURE by Cameron Brown
M
y climbing partner, Dan McNerthney, and I recently enjoyed a very cold and sunny January climb up the Devil’s Kitchen Headwall (DKHW) on Mt. Hood’s south side. Our plan was to skin to the base of the route, drop our skis and splitboard, and then climb the ice route to the summit (rated ~Alpine Ice 3) in ski boots and my full shank splitboard mountaineering boots. While climbing technical ice in ski boots
24 MAZAMAS
or technical splitboard boots isn’t ideal, we felt the route was moderate enough to allow their use. We planned on down climbing from the summit, descending through the Pearly Gates back to our skis and board, and then riding from the base of the route all the way down to Government Camp. Our descent route would take us through the Timberline ski area onto the Alpine Trail, and eventually into the Summit ski area in Government Camp—approximately 6,000 feet of vertical terrain.
We left Timberline Lodge around 2:45 a.m. and arrived at the base of the DKHW route just before sunrise. The snow was soft and deep and I was thankful to have my splitboard in these great uphill skinning conditions. The sugary powder validated our decision to leave our “techier” climbing boots and gear at home. We agreed to simul climb both pitches of the DKHW. I would lead and place protection and Dan would remove it. I placed about four (three good) ice screws during the entire climb, focusing on protecting the steepest sections. The crux of the climb was squeezing myself and my climbing pack through a narrow ice chimney. Good thing we didn’t try and bring our skis and board
along for this portion. After topping out, we enjoyed some hot tea and chocolate on the summit, then down climbed through the Pearly Gates and traversed back to our skis and board. We transitioned our skis into downhill mode and descended from the base of the DKHW route, over to Illumination Rock, back through the Timberline ski area, onto the old Alpine Trail, and eventually to our second vehicle parked in Government Camp. What a terrific way to enjoy Oregon’s highest peak. I love my local alpine playground! Top: Cameron Brown and Dan McNerthney enjoying the summit after climbing Devil’s Kitchen Headwall. Bottom: Dan McNerthney heading to the true summit after climbing DKHW. Photos: Cameron Brown.
APRIL 2016 25
BOOK REVIEW
CONTINENTAL DIVIDE: A
History of American Mountaineering by Maurice Isserman Review by Ken DuBois
W
ith Continental Divide, Maurice Isserman chronicles 350 years of mountaineering milestones, and heralds many a hearty hero. But his real purpose is more sentimental: he wants to understand how we, as Americans, feel about all that rock and rubble. Americans have always had a relationship with mountains, he tells us, and it’s changed from one era to the next. It’s changing still. To the early settlers, Isserman tells us, mountains were ugly impediments, and it wasn’t until the mid-nineteenth century that Americans began to appreciate their beauty and wonder. Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson played a part—their Age of Enlightenment ideals encouraged the pursuit of knowledge as a key to social progress—but eventually even Jefferson’s motives became more in line with traditional American values: conquering mountains, he knew, meant power. His commission of the Lewis and Clark expedition, intended to establish American primacy in the West, also completely changed American attitudes about mountain exploration and our ability, as a nation, to dominate any landscape. No mountain was off limits from that point on.
26 MAZAMAS
What American climbing gained in popularity after 1963, it lost in cohesion and community ... What the clubs gained in size and diversity they lost in intimacy and involvement. Soon explorers were leading expeditions to map the Rockies and returning as heroes. Mountain man Jedediah Smith crossed the Continental Divide at South Pass in 1824, establishing an essential part of the Oregon Trail and becoming a folklore legend in the process. But to Americans back East, Isserman tells us, the details mattered less than the daring. Romantic accounts—fictional, true, or greatly embellished—were all welcomed by an infatuated public. The national enthusiasm was fueled by fiction writers like James Fenimore Cooper (The Last of the Mohicans, 1826) and painter Frederic Edwin Church, as well as by Henry David Thoreau and Ralph Waldo Emerson, who produced essays and poems encouraging readers to let the majesty of mountains fill their souls. By 1840, scenery tourism—a new American trend—was flourishing in the Catskills, the White Mountains, and the Adirondacks. At the same time, Americans’ appetite for adventure stories found a real-life hero
in John C. Frémont, whose accounts of his expeditions were sensational and widely read. An officer in the U.S. Army Corps of Topographical Engineers, Frémont consistently added thousands of miles to his map-making assignments, such as when he marched over Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains, in 1842, when he was supposed to be surveying the banks of the Kansas River. His exciting accounts, Isserman explains, helped to usher in a new can-do phase in our country’s relationship with mountains—Americans were ready to commit. Rather than admiring the adventurers, they sought to become them. As detailed in Continental Divide, amateurs were soon making first ascents across the country, and organizing with other climbers to establish many small clubs, and the big three that continue to this day. The Appalachian Mountain Club, founded in 1876 by a Harvard astronomer and physicist, was typical in attracting middle and upper class professionals and
academics to its membership. The Sierra Club, founded in 1892, was conceived by UC Berkeley and Stanford professors, who persuaded the already-famous botanist and climber John Muir to lead the organization, and bring along his enormous constituency of preservationists. The Mazamas, founded in 1894 by William Gladstone Steel, also attracted professionals, Isserman says, though it took years for the public in Portland to grasp their motives. “At first one hardly knows whether to take the Mazamas, a comparatively new mountain club of the Pacific Northwest, wholly in earnest,” wrote one misguided journalist in 1897, “for there are many fireworks and flags and hurrahs, there is much ‘hustle,’ and rhetoric, and apparent sensationalism
in the reports they make of themselves, and their mountain climbing seems to be done in crowds.” In the twentieth century “American mountaineering came of age,” Isserman writes. The clubs still thrived, but alpine adventures became a populist pursuit, made accessible because of the advent of automobiles, and the rapid development of roads. But in the post-war era, Isserman laments, a spirit of competitiveness crept into the national climbing scene, and the lax membership requirements by some clubs led to an expansion of club rosters by individuals who did not actually climb. “What American climbing gained in popularity after 1963,” Isserman writes, “it lost in cohesion and community ... What
the clubs gained in size and diversity they lost in intimacy and involvement.” Throughout Continental Divide, Isserman emphasizes at every stage the emotional pull of mountains, an innate attraction that modernity cannot diminish. “We attach our dreams to mountains,” Isserman writes. “Mountains, we hope, will bring us strength, purpose, unity, salvation. We go to the mountains on a quest that, at various times and places, has been national, spiritual, personal, or some combination of all three.” Isserman, M. (2015). Continental Divide: A History of American Mountaineering. New York, London: W.W. Norton & Company. Mazama Library number (971. I7)
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APRIL 2016 27
Ancohuma Ascent: Getting HOOKED on Mountaineering at 21,000 feet.
I
by Kevin Machtelinckx n August of 2012, after two months of living in La Paz, Bolivia, I found myself with three things that every mountaineer covets; money, time, and a sawtoothed horizon of glaciated peaks outside my window. Let me be clear that, as a recent college graduate at the time, the only requirement for ‘having money’ was having an account balance greater than zero. I had left a low-level, dead end contract position earlier in the summer, flying to Bolivia with a longtime friend in order to put some of our engineering knowledge to use as volunteers in a prosthetics clinic. At the end of our stint and with my friend heading back to the States, I found no immediate reason to return to Oregon. I saw my friend off during the early hours of a cold August morning, retreated to our marginally warmer apartment, turned on my laptop, and googled “mountaineering in Bolivia.” It was only a couple weeks prior that my interest in alpinism had been piqued. For $150 per person, we had hired a guide and rented all the gear necessary for a 3-day 28 MAZAMAS
climb ( food and lodging also included) of the beautiful 6,000-meter Huayna Potosí on the outskirts of La Paz. As an introduction to high-altitude alpine climbing, it was a deal our penny-pinching personalities could not resist. Dated gear, headaches, questionablyaccredited guides, and a highway of shortroped, poorly-acclimatized tourists is the real price you pay for this kind of adventure. However, if you luck out, as we did, and land a competent and responsible guide, the reward is a straightforward trudge up to a spectacularly knife-edged summit with incredible views. Bolivia’s climbing season begins in May and runs through September. Huayna Potosí had been the gateway drug for what is now a fervent mountaineering addiction and I wanted more of what the Andes had to offer. I set my sights on the third-highest mountain in Bolivia, Ancohuma, which floats 6,427 meters above sea level at the northern terminus of the Cordillera Real. A few quick phone calls to a hostel owned by an Austrian woman in the small mountain town of Sorata at the base of the mountain landed me a month of free lodging and food in return for a few hours of work each day. My days in Sorata were comprised of cleaning and cooking for guests in the morning, then strapping on my hiking shoes to climb the hills and canyons surrounding
the secluded town. Under the skeptical gaze of Illampu, Ancohuma’s 6,363-meter neighbor, I trained by making several trips from the town situated at 2,700 meters to Laguna Chillata, the base camp for the climb. Three weeks later, after countless hours of studying my objective’s flanks from the top porch of the hostel, I hunched down next to my gear in the town plaza, waiting for my guide to arrive from La Paz, three hours away. Along with technical gear, we had agreed that he would bring insulated pants, jacket, gloves, and plastic boots for me. A porter, who doubled as the camp cook, lived close to base camp and would meet us along the way. I had worked out a deal with the guiding company to do all the food shopping myself in exchange for a small discount. I’m not a picky eater, so a tower of canned tuna, crushed packages of instant noodles, wheels of salted cheese, fresh fruit and vegetables, and some chocolate was my feast of choice. I can’t say I was surprised when I detected a hint of irritation from Francisco, my guide, as he looked over the diet he would be living off of for the next 4 days and 3 nights. Eduardo, a friend that Francisco had decided to bring along, shared his friend’s sentiments. Having only bought enough supplies for Francisco and me, I ducked into a shop to buy more, slightly irked that I had not been informed of an additional person joining the
Ancohuma ascent. Photos: Kevin Machtelinckx
climb. Being that there was only one guide, this meant that if Eduardo had to turn back for any reason, I would have no choice but to descend with him and Francisco. In my mind this didn’t seem right, but one must be adaptable. This was Bolivia after all, and my time in the clinic had taught me that in Bolivia, there are always quotation marks around the word “plan.” Between the hour-long taxi ride to just below base camp and the four hour approach hike to an advanced camp at 5,000 meters, it became clear that the food situation was not sitting well with the two Bolivians, who spent the afternoon questioning how a meal with no meat could be considered a meal at all. “Atún no es carne, Kevin.” It also seemed to me that Francisco hurried the group along at a pace that made catching one’s breath a more difficult task than it already was in such an oxygen-depleted environment. I caught Eduardo cursing his friend’s pace on more than one occasion. We established camp on the shores of Laguna Glaciar, a milky moraine lake fed by the shared glacier between Ancohuma and Illampu. I tried to curb my companions’ disappointment at the evening’s Top Ramen entrée by offering squares of my personal chocolate stash. Huddled around a crackling radio delivering play-by-play commentary on Bolivia’s must-win match against Paraguay,
three Bolivians and a gringo bonded over soccer, mountains, and imitation dark chocolate. The final whistle blew, securing Bolivia’s 3-1 win over its rival and Eduardo clicked off his radio with a satisfying flick of the thumb. The sound of emptiness punctuated by the occasional collapsing serac replaced the cheers of thousands of soccer fanatics. Francisco’s voice broke the silence as he began attempting to convince me that my fitness was good enough for an immediate summit bid that night. “I think you can do it, no problem. It’s not that far,” he persisted. I found it surprising that a certified guide would push his client to gain that amount of altitude so quickly. I remained steadfast in my decision to use the next day to acclimatize, moving the camp into the moraine of the main Ancohuma glacier, 500 meters above Laguna Glaciar. We awoke late the following morning and skirted the perimeter of Ancohuma’s immense glacial tongue toward the last camp. To pitch a tent at the edge of a glacier is to eavesdrop on the conversation between rock and ice. Wanting to distance myself from the group which had restarted its barrage of commentary on my food selection, I spent the afternoon of day two slowly wandering upward in the moraine. The motionless icefall creaked and groaned
under the late day sun. Rivulets of meltwater trickled and flowed amongst the shattered labyrinth of building-sized blocks of ice. The geometry of the icefall gave the impression of being caught on the waters of a tormented ocean, waves of white suspended in time and space. I sat on the sun-warmed rocks contemplating the sea of whitecaps jutting upward from the frigid surface. Hours passed. Lost in past memories and future dreams, a distant voice jolted me back to the present. A tuna, noodle and avocado dinner awaited me. Sleep at altitude is the semi-conscious state a mountaineer endures whilst his mind struggles between the urge to sleep and the urge to pee. The latter always wins out, meaning the 2 a.m. alpine start is usually met with a groan and a sigh. Fortunately, climbing a mountain is a damn good reason to wake up early. Francisco shook me awake, “Listo amigo?” Under a pearly sky of glinting stars, Francisco, Eduardo, and I meandered through the labyrinth of crevasses and snowbridges that make up the icefall. Some sections required a simple hip belay but the main challenge came from navigation, as the late-season glacier was extremely broken up. Credit should be given where credit is due: Francisco expertly guided us to the top of
continued on next page APRIL 2016 29
Ancohuma ascent. Photos: Kevin Machtelinckx
The confidence one digs for as they gradually ascend a wall that had previously looked impossible is a mental game I will never fully understand. Ancohuma, continued from previous page
the icefall with little problem in routefinding. As we gained the edge of a large, relatively flat section of snowfield, we extended the distance between our tie-in points on the rope to increase the likelihood of catching a crevasse fall. Snows earlier in the week had blanketed the area with a fresh layer, making our progress slow and arduous. Night succumbed to the pale hues of dawn and the sky began to lighten. During a short break, Eduardo nudged a still-warm bottle of light-green liquid toward me; mate de coca, tea made from coca leaves. Coca is characterized by its ability to suppress hunger and ease the effects of altitude. In the face of the final 50-degree slope, I accepted the offer as Francisco shot upward to set up a belay station one rope-length away. Eduardo and I both did terrible jobs of hiding our exhaustion. Any desire I had left to take time to compose my photos evaporated as I focused on a singular objective--summit. Thunderheads billowed upward from somewhere behind the summit of Illampu, which had now come into view. Alpenglow bathed its slopes. Below, Lake Titicaca’s 30 MAZAMAS
waters glowed under low-angle beams of sunlight. Above, Francisco’s encouragement became understandably hastier as weather threatened to move in. The 50-degree face that we were climbing culminated in a deep bergschrund with a solitary snow bridge toward the north still intact. Francisco headed up and out of sight, front-pointing the steepest wall of snow I had ever laid eyes upon. The rope went taught. “Hay que subir!” a voice yelled from above. The confidence one digs for as they
gradually ascend a wall that had previously looked impossible is a mental game I will never fully understand. As Francisco came into view, belaying me reassuringly from his station, I found the strength to stand up. The most difficult 10 meters of horizontal ground I have ever needed to traverse now lay between me and the highest summit I have climbed to date. After every step I sucked in air devoid of the oxygen molecules my muscles so desperately craved. I focused on a point ahead and summoned the will to move
toward it. After what seemed like hours, I arrived to that spot. Our trio congratulated each other and captured the moment with my camera. Francisco texted his girlfriend in La Paz as I attempted to eat the most awful choice one can make in terms of cold-weather snacks: a banana. Amongst forced mouthfuls of congealed mush, I stared into the moraine far below at a red spec-- my tent. A warm sleeping bag, hot drinks and all the tuna I could eat waited for me down there. I pondered that thought for a moment and decided only the first two were really worth pining for. Tied-in once again, we downclimbed the face above the bergschrund, then took side step after side step toward the flat plain below. Once on level ground, we traversed crevassed terrain the night had hidden from us. Eduardo, tied into the middle of the rope, punched through the softening crust on more than one occasion, giving a sobering perspective of the dangers lurking underfoot. During a break for water and chocolate in the middle of the icefall, Francisco casually mentioned that he had arranged for a taxi to pick us up near base camp later in the day, so we needed to break camp and start the trek down rather quickly. I counted the days and nights we spent on the mountain on one hand: 3 days, 2 nights. I had agreed to pay for 4 days, 3 nights. The thought of descending for another 3 hours with loaded packs in my exhausted state was precisely what I wanted to avoid when I booked a fourth day. Besides, I wanted to spend as much time as possible
in the alpine environment before the wet season banished hikers and climbers from the higher elevations. Francisco would have none of it. Adamant about a party he wanted to attend that night in La Paz, he forced us to pack up our gear shortly after arriving at the moraine camp. We argued back and forth about the amount I would owe him when reached base camp; him wanting the full price and me only willing to pay for 3 days, 2 nights. We scampered along the rockfields as clouds rolled in, reducing visibility and producing a light mist that made finding traction on the marbled granite faces an exercise in futility. After hours of route-finding and whiteout conditions, Laguna Chillata came into view. Chit chat had ceased amongst the group. Realizing that I was not going to be allowed to leave without paying the original amount they were expecting, I set down my pack and dug out the plastic bag in which I had stashed a wad of Bolivian money. I reluctantly counted out the bills, handed them to Francisco, and bid him farewell. I told him I knew my way back to the town 2,000 meters below and did not require a guide. Without another word, Francisco, Eduardo, and the porter disappeared down the side of a hill toward the road where a taxi would pick them up some hours later. My downward journey took me first through high alpine meadows where pairs of Andean geese came to graze and rest. Further below, I found the aqueduct that irrigated the myriad of potato and coca fields plastered upon the hillsides. I knew
that following it would lead me to the first of several farmhouses that I had used as reference points during my training hikes. When the first came into sight, I breathed a sigh of relief. The rest of the way would be long, but there was no way to get lost now. By the time I stumbled in from the dark through the front door of the hostel haggard, dehydrated and running on fumes, I had ascended 1,000 meters to the summit of Ancohuma and descended 4,000 meters back to town in a span of 18 hours. My German coworker, in his giddiness to see me, poured me a shot of whiskey which I immediately regretted. My world spun as I climbed arguably the most difficult flight of stairs I’ve ever come across up to my room. I laid down on the bed and my world went dark before my head hit the pillow. The next morning I woke up with my boots still strapped to my feet and my pack’s hip belt still fastened around my waist. My transition into the masochistically fulfilling world of mountaineering was complete. Author Bio: Kevin Machtelinckx is an adventure photographer based in Portland, Oregon, though his work spans many continents. He currently works as a mechanical engineer as his photography portfolio continues to grow. His expeditions are sponsored by his own sense of humor and fueled by a never-ending supply of Belgian chocolate.
APRIL 2016 31
Featured Peaks
Seven-Fingered Jack. Photo: Bob Breivogel
Mts. Maude (9,082 ft.) and Seven-Fingered Jack (9,100 ft.) by Barry Maletzky
W
hy are peaks named after Jack? Which Jack do they mean? (Jack Grauer?) And why do they usually have a number of abnormal fingers? Oregon has its Three-Fingered Jack, while Washington, of course, has to go four better with its Seven-Fingered peak. Perhaps that’s better than the Seven Devils of Idaho. It’s possible that the “fingers” part has to do with towers and fangs of rock; and so it is with Washington’s Seven-Fingered Jack. This tottering mass of loose rock and scree in the Entiat Range, along with its next-door neighbor, Mt. Maude, are only rarely on the Mazama climb schedule. But they do merit more frequent visits for a variety of reasons. Seven-Fingered Jack, although seemingly secondary to the hulk of Maude, is actually the higher of the two and is Washington’s 32 MAZAMAS
12th tallest peak. Maude, which is more often climbed, is the 15th tallest. Yet there’s more to approaching and ascending these two than peak-bagging (although I must admit my first visit was thus motivated). After a 23-mile drive on the Chiwawa River Road off Washington State’s Route 2 ( follow the convoluted road directions in the many trail and climb manuals), take a right onto Phelps Creek Road, and travel another 3 or so miles to Phelps Creek Trailhead. Plan on two to three days to enjoy what you will discover is a world-class campsite; lingering here is a lazy pleasure no one can criticize. To get there, proceed up the gentle Phelps Creek Trail about 3 miles (why do texts differ so much on mileage? Some say 2.5, others 3.2—to me it seemed like the latter), then turn right and head north up the increasingly steep Leroy Creek Trail about 3 miles ( follow faint climbers’ paths here) to the bewitching charm of Leroy Basin at 6,000 feet. Although this is the dry side of
the range, there is almost always running water at the head of Leroy Creek, but no easy access on the way up, so carry plenty of H2O as you labor up the trail. There are few richer spots to camp than in this treasure-filled basin, with flat spots atop alpine fir-clad hillocks and swaths of both yellow and pink monkey flowers rimming the creek. Most folks are inclined to call it a day and retire to admire the farranging views. You’ll see the massive Mt. Fernow to the northeast, the sharp-edged spires of the Enchantments further east, and the soaring snow dome of Glacier Peak to the south, which seems to float like an apparition above the wilderness. You’ll also see summits rarely attempted, even by grizzled North Cascades veterans—such as Mt. David, and Bandit and Sopa Peaks—as well as the better-known brooding hulks of Bonanza and Stuart, and the snows of Chiwawa and Fortress Peaks above Spider and Buck Creek Passes.
Mt Maude. Photos: Bob Breivogel
Maude is famous for its forbidding north face, where crack ice climbers, hoping for a sustained spell of frigid weather ... can embrace the ice and attempt 50-70-degree angles. But as Mazamas, climb we must, complete with the occasional misery yet majesty of ascent. Maude is the first peak usually tackled. Its southwest route consists of a traverse, with some mildly unpleasant gully ups and downs to the southwest ridge, where an easy scramble over talus, scree (ugh!), then pleasant flower-strewn meadows provide a view-filled amble to the top. Views now open up to the northwest and the giants of the North Cascades, including Baker, Shuksan, the chiseled incisors of the Pickets, the regal snow ridges of Eldorado, and the wind-scoured hills to the east. A bonus is the view down to the northeast at the twin Ice Lakes, where floating icebergs may be seen throughout the summer. After soaking in the view, you could descend the south face directly via a gully for variety, but this is hard-hat country amidst inconveniently-placed blocks of unstable basalt, granitoid, and dacite. Maude is famous for its forbidding north face, where crack ice climbers, hoping for a
sustained spell of frigid weather in winter or early spring can embrace the ice and attempt Grade III routes of 50-70-degree angles. Unfortunately, Maude’s glaciers, even on the north face, have receded in recent years and a northeast-facing pocket glacier on Seven-Fingered Jack, mentioned in Becky, has now disappeared. One needs no further convincing of man’s destructive effect on this once glorious scene; denying that a battle here must be fought is the first step in losing it. Strong climb teams should have little trouble either way in regaining camp and completing the second ascent of the day— Seven-Fingered Jack. I still count a variable number of fingers but the point is to head north to the col between Maude and Jack, then ascend directly up scree or snow on a faint buttress (do not take the gully to your left; it ends in a vertical 50-foot wall) to reach a saddle where a multitude of fingers confronts you. Which is the highest? Some climbers simply ascend the one that looks
most pleasant but the true summit is the finger farthest north, so keep going. Along the way, rare alpine flowers lighten your efforts. The purple ball of a flower with yellow stamens protruding like knitting needles is spiky phacelia, a relative of the waterleafs familiar to all who trek the Angel’s Rest Trail in spring, while those gardens of yellow daisies are comprised of the golden, or subalpine, daisy. Another rest that evening is clearly in order, especially given the long drive back on dusty logging roads. Best to pack out the next morning, following a well-earned intermission of sleep and breakfast. While most North Cascades climbs are subject to the unbending commands of the weather, these east-side peaks almost always guarantee runs of sunny days and cloudless nights all summer, all the more reason to make the long drive. Please consider visiting these alpine jewels, well within the range of the A climber; your memories will thank you. APRIL 2016 33
MORE CLIMBING!
NOT RED TAPE.
By Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager
A
trip report from Washington, D.C., is not the typical article found in the Mazama Bulletin. Our nation’s capital is void of glaciated peaks, alpine rock, gorgeous gorges and steep red-rock canyons. It is, however, a place replete with objective hazards, risk and big walls of bureaucracy that threaten to crush our outdoor recreation experience. That’s why this trip report is about navigating the maze of Congress and the federal government from inside the Beltway for the purposes of protecting outdoor recreation access and strengthening conservation work. I visited D.C., last February where I teamed up with Tom O’Keefe (Stewardship Director, American Whitewater) and John McCauley (Regional Coordinator, Outdoor
34 MAZAMAS
Alliance) for meetings on The Hill. The main topic on the agenda with Senator Wyden and Senator Merkley’s offices was a draft bill tentatively titled “Recreation Not Red Tape.” This legislation is the product of collaboration between the Outdoor Alliance, Outdoor Industry Association, the Mazamas and Mountaineers as well as many other groups like Travel Oregon and the Seven Wonders of Oregon Tour. In meeting with Senator Wyden and Senator Merkley’s key staff, we were able to review legislation and offer input from the Mazamas’ perspective. For example, the bill would create a more streamlined process for the Forest Service or Bureau of Land Management in issuing recreation permits to nonprofits who facilitate safe and highquality access to the great outdoors. This is something that Mazamas are very familiar with and have served as subject matter experts in creating solutions for this proposed legislation. After meetings on the Hill, we visited with officials from the U.S. Forest Service. Joined by Erik Murdock and Jason Keith (both Access Fund), we met
with Recreation Director Joe Meade and Assistant Director Tinelle Bustam. This was an opportunity to learn how the USFS views sustainable recreation, which is important to Mazamas as we increase volunteer capacity for trail stewardship, crowdsourced data collection, and protecting iconic structures like those found on Mt. Hood. We also met with the Department of Agriculture’s Under Secretary for Natural Resources and Environment, Robert Bonnie, who oversees the Forest Service. During this meeting, we were able to express our opposition to copper mining proposals in Mazama, Wash., near Goat Wall and in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness in southern Oregon. These proposals would have a devastating impact on the environment and outdoor recreation. Later that evening, a somewhat surreal celebration took place on the Hill. Portland-based Wild Earth Guardians hosted a “1000 Culverts Celebration” with the Forest Service. This party highlighted the Legacy Roads and Trails program that spends $42 million annually to repair and
Mazamas should feel proud that they play such a crucial role in protecting the outdoor experience for future generations on public lands. restore culverts in national forests. Chief Tidwell spoke highly of the collaborative efforts that made this milestone a reality. Senators Wyden and Merkley also spoke at the event which makes one realize how dedicated these lawmakers are to conservation efforts. No other Senators attended despite the fact that federal funds have been used in almost all 50 states to repair culverts! The visit to D.C. was part of a larger advocacy effort by other outdoor recreation groups such as the American Alpine Club (AAC) board of directors and support from Conrad Anker.
Saturday evening the AAC hosted their annual benefit dinner. The evening was spent not only fundraising for the AAC but also in honoring the club’s past president Doug Walker, who died in an avalanche earlier this year. The intrepid mountaineer and philanthropist was a champion of increasing outdoor recreation access for young people. In honor of Mr. Walker’s legacy, Department of Interior Secretary Sally Jewell spoke to a packed room of AAC members. She revealed some serious efforts afoot by the DOI and other agencies to get more people outdoors and cut bureaucratic red tape. These sentiments and future actions seem to run parallel to
our efforts with Senator Wyden’s office and partners in Oregon. Mazamas should feel proud that they play such a crucial role in protecting the outdoor experience for future generations on public lands. If you are interested in being more engaged in our advocacy efforts, join our Conservation Committee or attend local events organized around access on public lands. And find time to call Senator Wyden and Senator Merkley to thank them in supporting our collective outdoor recreation experiences.
APRIL 2016 35
A LOOK BACK AT MY SUMMER AFTER BCEP by Gary Ballou
L
ike so many others, I had some climbing experience before I enrolled in the Mazama Basic Education Program (BCEP). And like many others, I’ve been backpacking and hiking since I was a kid. Of course in my case that was the days of aluminum frame canvas backpacks. Until 2008, Portland Parks & Recreation had an active climbing program, guiding teams up several popular peaks in the Pacific Northwest: Hood, St. Helens, Adams, Baker, and South Sister. By the time I took BCEP in 2009 I already had nine summits, so my goal in BCEP was to fill out my knowledge and expand my skills. I worked hard to dial in my rope handling skills, team travel, and rock climbing so I could be a more active participant on a climb. After I finished BCEP I had a good summer: I climbed CastlePinnacle-Plummer and Mount St. Helens as Mazama climbs, and had private climbs on Hood, Broken Top, and Thielsen—often with my BCEP friends. One of my favorite climbs that summer was a one day exploratory climb on Broken Top. There were four of us on the team, all friends from BCEP, and we did all the research for the climb ourselves and scouted our own way to the summit. We chose the Northwest Ridge route, because there was ample route information on the Mazama website and online. Broken Top has a short, not too technical rock climb at the summit block, a somewhat committing catwalk just below the summit, and a million-dollar view of the Three Sisters peaks. Of course the reputation of having one of the best scree descents in the Pacific Northwest helped. We still joke about bringing my brand-new 60 meter climbing rope for the climb—its first time out. We only used it for the short 20-foot rappel at the base of the summit block. We still went through all the motions of yelling “Rope!” when we tossed the ends down, but it probably looked a little silly pitching over almost the entire 200-foot length for a 20-foot rappel. Still, we learned a lot, and it was a fabulous day exploring the area with friends. Since then I have joined forces with the amazing Amy Mendenhall to link two climbs over a three-day weekend, Broken Top and South Sister from Green Lakes. We usually time our weekend to coincide with the Perseid Meteor Shower in August, and always finish our climb with a stop at a certain Mexican restaurant in Bend. Their 36 MAZAMAS
Amy Mendenhall rappels off Broken Top. Photo: Gary Ballou.
We still joke about bringing my brand-new 60 meter climbing rope for the climb—its first time out. We only used it for a short 20-foot rappel at the base of the summit block.
scratch tableside guacamole is legendary—I copied their receipt and still use it whenver I’m going to a potluck. Some of the other notable memories in the six years since we started this tradition include the discovery of an artesian spring in the meadows at the base of Broken Top. It’s the first time I’ve ever seen water bubbling straight up out of the ground, and John Meckel and I came across it on my last provisional lead before becoming a climb leader. There are a lot of seeps in the basin, but when we saw the creek going around a bend—with both sides going downhill away from each other—we knew something was up. It took a minute or two of looking closely, but eventually we spotted it: clear, clean water bubbling up in the middle of the creek, with tiny pebbles dancing in the upwelling. When you get a gift like that from Mother Nature, it’s good to accept it. Call me crazy, but I haven’t brought a water filter on that
climb since, even in the dry season. I also got a lot of odd looks last summer when I packed in a cast iron skillet to the base camp, until I pulled out the quesadilla makings and shared them with the entire climb team. It was worth packing in a few extra pounds to see the smiles on the faces of the rest of the team. Of course the more experienced of you probably wonder why I didn’t hand off the skillet to one of the rookies at the trailhead; in time I will become better at delegating! Since that first climb I’ve co-led another five trips to Broken Top, and it is one of my top trips of the year. It’s a great climb for brand-new BCEP grads, and it serves as a terrific introduction to the area.
MAZAMA MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS
Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join • DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. • This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activites, and events delivered to your door monthly. • DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. Icebreaker, Mountain Hardwear, The Mountain Shop, Mountaineers Books, Next Adventure, Oregon Mountain Community, Portland Rock Gym, Patagonia, Prana Portland, Redpoint Climber’s Supply, Rock & Ice Magazine, Sharp End Books, Trail Butter, US Outdoor Store
• Access to Mazama Lodge at the base of Mt. Hood, along with great member rates. • Access to SPECIAL MEMBER PAGES on the Mazama website with climbing route information and much more. • Free RESCUE INSURANCE anyqhere in the world below 6,000 meters. • Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Stay connected with Mazamas on Facebook. Like our page today: facebook. com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. The publication is in full color and is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ You can download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ You can advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/ MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Read interesting Mazama stories, and relevant information from around the web on the Mazama blog. Mazamas.blogspot. com
APRIL 2016 37
Mazama Culture by Kati Mayfield In January and February of 2016, we convened meetings with over 60 of you to discuss the Mazamas Organizational Culture. What is organizational culture? ▶▶ “The sum of values and rituals which serve as ‘glue’ to integrate the members of the organization.” –Richard Perrin ▶▶ The way we are perceived both internally and externally Executive Council convened these meetings in order to: ▶▶ Define organizational culture and why it matters to the Mazamas. ▶▶ Identify the cultural attributes which shape our organizational culture. ▶▶ Decide which of these attributes to: maintain (Keep), leave in the past
(Leave Behind), and aspire to (Move Toward). ▶▶ Encourage members to recognize themselves as the agents of the culture we want to develop at the Mazamas. According to attendees at both meetings, these are the cultural attributes which we want to Keep, Leave Behind and Move Toward Keep: ▶▶ Welcoming ▶▶ Community ▶▶ Volunteerism ▶▶ Conservation ▶▶ Mountaineering Core ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Training ▶▶ Mentoring ▶▶ Safety Leave Behind: ▶▶ Machismo/Good ol’ boys club/sexism ▶▶ Drinking/partying ▶▶ Cliques and fraternity-type behavior
Move Toward: ▶▶ Inclusivity, diversity, equity, accessibility ▶▶ Professionalism, accountability, standards training for volunteers and leaders
Overall, these meetings strongly confirmed that Mazamas agree with and care about the concepts embedded in our mission, vision and core values. They also revealed gaps between these concepts and our organizational practice. The task ahead, then, is to unify our collective attitudes and behaviors with these stated and affirmed beliefs. Over the next few months, your Executive Council will be considering how to approach this work from three different perspectives: ▶▶ Communications: how can we improve EC communication with
membership, especially around high-level goals and strategies? ▶▶ Setting expectations: how can we set expectations with members, volunteers and the public about the kind of culture we want to see at the Mazamas? ▶▶ Strategy: how can we integrate organizational culture into our ongoing strategic and operational work? We invite you to engage with this conversation by letting us know what you think! We have set up a two-question survey asking for your opinion about this organizational culture work. http://goo.gl/forms/ Ffg6BWDhTj You can also find the survey and notes from these meetings at: mazamas.org/about-us/ mazamas-culture/
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38 MAZAMAS
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Oct. 2016
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Follow along with BCEP on Instagram!
@thehappycamper_
WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! Pendar Ardalan—Cotopaxi Brandon S. Beagle—Denali Brandon T. Beagle—Mt. Shasta Tia Black—Banner Peak Jillian Bohrer—South Sister Carey Bowers—Mt. St. Helens Graham Brown—Mt. Adams John Duskin—Middle Sister Kara Francis—Villarrica Leesa Gallia—Mt. Hood Kyle Grugan—South Sister Kevin Machtelinckx—Ancohuma Nick Maslen—Mt. Rainier Krista McCoy—Mt. St. Helens Kristen Mohror—Mt. Adams Thomas Schatz—Thompson Becky Schmitz—Mt. Jefferson Jim Slater—Mt. St. Helens Dylan Teichroeb—Mt. Hood Scott Templeton—Mt. Hood Jonathan Thompson—Broken Top Britney Tompkins—South Sister David Vant Hof—Mt. Kilimanjaro Dan Willey—Middle Sister Kate Wolf—South Sister
#mazamsbcep
@punnedit
25 New
Reinstatements: Allan 7 Reinstated Brettman (2000), Jacob Childers (2015), Jerald Denton (1968), Kate Harbour (2015), Blake McCann (2000), Debbie Smith (1988), Andrew Yeoman (2014)
@tamara_pnw @tayhatmaker
@deborahbusch
Deceased: Hunter Goin (1967), Donna Pickens (1946)
2 Deceased
February Total Membership
3,393 2016 3,251 2015
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS January 8, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Kirk Newgard. Chaitanya Sathe, Kris Simbajon, Mark Stave, Parthasarathy, Gowri January 10, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Leora Gregory, Asst: Jay Avery. Sharon Birchfield, Ghislain Gressard, Brian Klump, Patrick Orr February 7, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: David Zeps, Asst: Ghislain Gressard. Chaitanya Sathe, Antonio Tatum February 8, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Adam Russell. Amad Doratotaj, Walker McAninch-Runzi, Jeff Nastoff February 24, Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows. Leora Gregory, Asst: Jay Avery. David Lumsden, Mark Stave, Jeffrey Walls, Fritz Koenig
@rochetas
@girlletgo APRIL 2016 39
MAZAMA FAMILIES FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING Families Mountaineering 101 is finishing the its curriculum and coming to its summit! Recently students, assistants, and leaders completed their snow camping session at the White River Snow Park. Forty-five souls left a bone dry parking lot on Saturday March 11 carrying backpacks and pulling sleds, ready to spend the night in the elements. Students set up their tents, built snow walls, created two group kitchen areas, and spent the night in great company. A short 24 hours later, those same 45 souls dug out from a foot of snow, packed up their gear (with an intermittent snowball fight breaking out) and hiked/snowshoed/skied back to the cars filled with pride. The next to last session for FM101 is on backpacking, followed by a group trip to Smith Rock State Park. UPCOMING ACTIVITIES Keep an eye on our web site for upcoming activities (mazamafamilies.org). We have upcoming hikes to Wolf Creek Trestle, Table Mountain, and Hardy Ridge and Hamilton Mountain, as well as Families Rock Skills nights. Check back as more events will be added for the spring and summer.
Photo: Laura Rumford
Honorary Mazama Member Nominations Sought
Honorary members are those persons who, in the words of the Mazama bylaws, “have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities.” They are not required to pay dues, but do have all other rights and privileges of membership. Any Mazama member may nominate an Honorary member candidate. A selection committee made up of the chairpersons of all standing committees will consider qualifications for all the proposed candidates against the criteria, make a selection, and then send their selection on to the Executive Council for ratification. To assist the selection committee and the Executive Council in making an informed choice, nominations must be accompanied by a statement detailing a candidate’s qualifications. Please submit nominations to Mazama Secretary John Rettig, secretary@mazamas.org, by April 30.
40 MAZAMAS
ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Spring is around the corner and AYM is kicking it into high gear with a variety of new hikes and other activities. The past few months have been some of our busiest ever! In February alone we had our annual Winter Weekend at the Mazama Lodge, a French conversation hike, two Wednesday hikes, and our annual trip to Nesika Lodge, owned and operated by the Trails Club of Oregon. For the latest trips, be sure to check out our Meetup page: meetup.com/Adventurous-Young-Mazamas/ FRIDAY-SUNDAY, APRIL 15–17: SKAGIT VALLEY TULIP AND CAMPING ADVENTURE Have you ever read a “places to visit before you die” or “places so surreal you won’t believe they actually exist” list on the internet? The Skagit Valley Tulip Fields make it onto quite a number of these lists! Join AYM to explore this gem in beautiful Northwestern Washington. A variety of activities will be offered throughout the weekend including: tulip field exploration, a visit to local museums and other cultural sites, and of course, various hikes in the state parks in the area. We will camp on the shores of Samish Bay in Larrabee State Park, which itself offers 15 miles of hiking trails, beaches, two lakes, and wildlife viewing for those who don’t wish to wander far for their non-tuliping activities. Carpools will leave throughout the day Friday to accommodate all participant needs. Cost: $20 members/$30 nonmembers (includes group campsite). Limited to 20 participants. RSVP with leaders directly to reserve a spot. A detailed prospectus will be sent to participants. Leaders: Reena Clements and Mike Kacmar.
CLASSIC MAZAMAS FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. (Formerly known as Old Timers.) CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net, or Executive Council liaison Kate Evans at 503635-6540, kateevans97@gmail.com, or classics@mazamas.org. LEADING EVENTS IN MAY If you are interested in leading an event next month, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert by April 12. CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway and on the west side it will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710. APRIL 2 WILDFLOWER WALK: CATHERINE CREEK: Begin at the Coyote Wall trailhead and follow the old highway to the former Labyrinth Trail, ascend the trail past the waterfall to a meadowed ridge overlooking the Columbia River. Return the same route. Five miles, about 1,100 feet elevation. Drive 165 miles. Depart from Gateway P&R at 8 a.m. Leader: Richard Getgen (teambears@frontier.com). APRIL 14: SAUVIE ISLAND HIKE Meet at 8:30 a.m. at Gateway Transit. Seven miles, no elevation gain. Leader: Flora Huber, flobell17@comcast.net, 503-658-5710. APRIL 25: CLASSICS MEETING, 11 AM Classics meetings will now be every other month on the last Monday of the month. Interested Classics are always welcome to attend. Come plan our Spring events and help shape our programs! JULY 2: DICK AND JANE MILLER’S “FOURTH” OF JULY PICNIC POTLUCK :
503.684.9698
AUG. 27–SEPT. 2: CLASSIC HIKERS GETAWAY LONG BEACH PENINSULA For details see p. 23 in the January Bulletin or contact leader Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@pacifier.com. APRIL 2016 41
MAZAMA LODGE
YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN HAVE YOU PAID YOUR YEARLY LOCKER FEE? We will start emptying lockers this month for those who have not paid their yearly locker rental ($25). THE LODGE IS OUT OF FIREWOOD! This year because of early winter we have several cords of wood that are buried under 4 feet of snow. We had anticipated access to this wood by now but just received another 3 FEET of snow. How can you help? Contact lodge chairman Bob Stayton at rstayton@comcast. net. Long time Mazama Member Bill Stein has firewood to donate but he needs someone to pick it up at his home in SE Portland and deliver it to the lodge. SPRING SKIING We expect good spring skiing throughout April. The lodge is sold out the first three Saturdays of April with BCEP students; plenty of space is available Saturday, April 23 and April 30.
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INTRODUCING SUNDAY EVENING PROGRAMS AT THE LODGE! The first Sunday of every month, May– September, the lodge will host great guest speakers. Dinner will be served at 5 p.m. and the 1 hour program begins at 6 p.m. Event is free; dinner available for $13.25.
Antarctica On 1 January 2016, Joe Whittington MAY sailed from Ushuaia, Argentina aboard 1 the Quark Expeditions ship Ocean Endeavor to Antarctica. As a member of a photography group including Seattle-based Art Wolfe, their ultimate objective was to cross the Antarctic Circle and take a lot of photographs. Although the ship didn’t quite make the Circle, due to impenetrable ice conditions, many landings were made on the Continent using Zodiac boats and many photographs were taken. If you are a fan of spectacular scenery, icebergs, whales, and penguins ( for sure, lots of penguins!) you will enjoy this presentation.
The Salmonberry Trail— Linking the Valley to the Coast
JUNE
5
The Salmonberry Trail is the name for the rails-to-trails project between Banks and Tillamook along the old Salmonberry Railroad. This is an opportunity to convert the no-longer functional portions of rail line to a trail and adding a trail adjacent to the viable sections of rail. A master concept plan has been completed, a leadership coalition has been formed, and fundraising is under way. Mike Cafferata, District Forester for the Forest Grove District of the Oregon Department of Forestry though which a portion of the railroad passes, will provide photos of the project, a current status report, and plans for the future of this exciting project.
Behind the Emerald Curtain “Behind the Emerald Curtain” is the latest documentary produced by Pacific Rivers, and created by Shane Anderson. The film examines logging practices in Oregon—especially the hidden impacts
JULY
3
of industrial style clear cutting, road building, and pesticide application. We will screen the video and then have a conversation with Kalei Augustine and other staff and guests from Pacific Rivers. Preview: http://pacificrivers.org/#emeraldvideo.
Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland
AUG
7
Join outing leader Eric Hoem and experience the hiking trails, climb route, and trekking path that members of his Mazama outing followed in the fjordlands of western Norway. They hiked trails to coastal headlands and the top of the 3,000 foot vertical cliff face called the Troll Wall. Others in the group climbed a rocky, steep peak named Bispen (The Bishop) for dramatic views of the fjords and the Romsdal mountains. To cap off the experience, members made a three-night hut-to-hut trek across a high plateau in wintry conditions.
History of the Mount Hood National Forest and its Lookouts
SEPT
4
The Mount Hood National Forest is an outdoor playground for millions of hikers, skiers, climbers, and other recreationists, but it also has a long and fascinating history. Local author Cheryl Hill will highlight several interesting stories from the forest’s past and talk about the history of its lookouts. She will also talk about her favorite lookout hikes and give you a few tips for staying in a lookout cabin. Cheryl is a librarian, lookout enthusiast, and history buff, and is the author of two books in Arcadia Publishing’s “Images of America” series: Mount Hood National Forest and the forthcoming Fire Lookouts of Oregon.
EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS
EXCITING TRAVEL ADVENTURES! Programs are free and open to the Mazamas and general public, 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to
the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: John Leary (Chair); Nancy Bentley, Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, and Sharon Leary. We’ll see you in the October!
The Program Committee wants to thank everyone for their support and donations, making this a very successful season. If you would like to do a presentation, please contact John Leary at leary.j@comcast.net or Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail.com.
New Hikes on the Oregon Coast
AYM hike APR leader Matt 6 Reeder spent three years hiking almost every trail in the Opal Creek and Mount Jefferson areas, and his new book 101 Hikes in the Majestic Mount Jefferson Region is the result. Join Matt as he details his favorite hikes in the area, tells stories about the making of the book and discusses the necessity of Leave No Trace wilderness ethics and extensive trail maintenance. He will have copies of his book available for purchase and signing after his presentation.
Oregon’s hiking guru takes on a slide show tour of a dozen new trails he discovered while researching the new fourth edition of his book, 100 Hikes/ Travel Guide: Oregon Coast & Coast Range. Discover a loop hike around Depoe Bay, an abandoned railroad along a river near Tillamook, and a trek to the world’s tallest redwoods just over the border in California. As always, Bill Sullivan spices his talk with notes on the geology, wildlife, and history of the land. Sullivan is the author of 17 books about Oregon, including “Oregon Trips & Trails,” “Oregon’s Greatest Natural Disasters,” Hiking Oregon’s History, and the popular “100 Hikes” series. His journal of a 1000-mile hike he took across Oregon in 1985, “Listening for Coyote,” was chosen by the Oregon Cultural Heritage Commission as one of Oregon’s “100 Books,” the 100 most significant books in the state’s history. He has also written four novels and a collection of short stories.
LET’S TAKE THIS OUTSIDE.
101 Hikes in the Majestic Mt. Jefferson Region
APR
13
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TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE
JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.
WEBSITE UPDATES
Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas. org/activities-events/hikeschedule/ for updates!
HK A1.5 Apr 02 (Sat) Steigerwald Lake NWR. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We should see feathered friends heading north as well as the birds who spend the year at the Wildlife Refuge. We will take our time to see birds and other wildlife so bring binoculars. On clear days spectacular views of Mt. Hood. Less than 30 miles round-trip so back at Gateway by 1:30 p.m. 5 miles, 40 ft., Dr. 34, TH, Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 02 (Sat) Falls Creek (Upper & Lower). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Get up close and personal with this spectacular cascade. Located north of Carson Washington, the trail affords a super look at the falls from above and below. 8.4 miles, 1,200 ft., Dr. 90, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Apr 02 (Sat) Dublin Lake. Dyanne Foster 503 267-8937. Come and stroll up Tanner Butte Trail then head down to the Lake—we can return via the cut off trail and hike extra miles on the road, or return as Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 44 MAZAMAS
WILDERNESS DESIGNATION
Wilderness—Limit 12. indicates that the hike enters a Forest Servicedesignated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.
STREET RAMBLES
ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING
Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.
Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/aym/
we ascended. Could be wet, sunny, dry or other so arrive prepared! 13.8 miles, 3,760 ft., Dr. 70, Gateway 7:30 a.m.
EAST SIDE RAMBLES!
HK B2.5 Apr 03 (Sun) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Up Hamilton Mt past waterfalls on a steep and exposed trail. Cross a high ridge and descend to a saddle. Return on old road to pick up ascent trail. You need a Washington Discover pass for parking. 7.6 miles, 2,100 ft., Dr. 88, State Park, Gateway 8:30 a.m.
Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3.0 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland up to Mt. Tabor Park. We may even catch a glimpse of a Heritage Tree or two. Once in the park we will take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park. We will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. Great training for climbing or backpacking this summer. Starts from the MMC promptly at 6 p.m. (arrive a few minutes early to sign-in). Total time 2 hours. $2 (please arrive a little early to sign in). 5 miles 500 ft
HK C2 Apr 03 (Sun) Nesmith Point (W). Sue Dimin 971-409 8501. Wilderness—Limit 12. Come prepared for all weather. 9.8 miles, 3,810 ft., Dr. 60, Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Apr 06 (Wed) University Falls Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Coast range Gravelle loop hike past University Falls. This trail is named for the Gravelle twins, Elroy and Edmund, who spent countless hours helping to develop and maintain the Tillamook
= 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd
Starts April 6 (every Wed. until October)
State Forest trail system. 8.4 miles, 2,450 ft., Dr. 60, MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Apr 09 (Sat) Bayocean Spit. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier. com. Loop hike—half along estuary road and half on a sandy beach. 8.1 miles, 100 ft., Dr. 145, Target/185th 8 a.m. HK B2 Apr 09 (Sat) Bald Butte. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Above Hood River with open meadows and wooded forest, this unique hike offers
at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol
near continuous views of Mt Hood and the Hood River valley. 8.4 miles, 2,300 ft., Dr. 144, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Apr 09 (Sat) Larch Mountain/Wahkeena. Dyanne Foster 503 267-8937. Hike our glorious Multnomah Creek up to an amazing viewpoint—weather allowing—then return along the luscious Wahkeena trail. Be prepared for obstinate conditions! 16.2 miles, 4,960 ft., Dr. 48, Gateway 7:30 a.m.
and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
HK A1.5 Apr 10 (Sun) Lacamas Lake Trail. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Never know what to expect on this trail. Certainly birds; once we saw three red-tailed hawks battling! Nice lake views and fabulous view of Mt. Hood. Close-in urban hike, great for families too. 7 miles, 100 ft., Dr. 30, Gateway 11 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Apr 10 (Sun) Neahkahnie Mountain Loop. Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Coast hike south of Cannon Beach to a wonderful viewpoint high above the Pacific. Following the hike we may pay a visit to Short Sands Beach to relax. 8.6 miles, 1,950 ft., Dr. 170, Target/185th 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Apr 11 (Mon) Oak Hill Flora Huber. 503-658-5710 Wonderful wildflowers, views, creek crossings, and lots of poison oak. 5.34 miles, 2,000 ft., Dr. 120, Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 13 (Wed) Grassy Knoll & Old Growth. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. First, a short hike to an open area with gorge views and flowers above Carson Washington. On our way back we will look at some of the biggest old growth trees in the gorge. 8 miles, 1,500 ft., Dr. 138, TH, MMC 8 a.m. HK C2 Apr 15 (Fri) Franklin Ridge Loop James Stevenson jstevenson7121@gmail.com Wilderness—Limit 12. From Horsetail Falls, past Ponytail, and up the Oneonta Gorge. Across Franklin Ridge to Larch Mt. Trail. Cruise on down to Multnomah Falls and back to the car along Gorge Trail #400. 12.2 mi., 2,800 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway8 a.m. HK B2 Apr 16 (Sat) Three Corner Rock—Via PCT. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. We will climb up the PCT to the junction for 3-Corner Rock. Interesting rock formation with great views of the gorge from the top. 8.4 miles, 1,800 ft., Dr. 90, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Apr 16 (Sat) Table Mountain (West Ridge). Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. We will hike up and down the West Ridge of Table Mt. Good early conditioner; moderate but sustained pace. Good boots and trekking poles advised. About 6 hours car to car. 9 miles, 3,450 ft., Dr. 84, Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Apr 17 (Sun) Triple Falls Loop (W). Eric Hall 503-687-4730 or erichall@q.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Enjoy gorge viewpoints and four waterfalls—Horsetail, Upper Horsetail, Oneonta, and Triple. 4.3 miles, 950 ft., Dr. 60, Gateway 8 a.m.
HK C2 Apr 18 (Mon) Kings Mountain. Sue Dimin 971-409 8501 Steep and short, well maintained trail. Come prepared for all weather. 5.4 miles, 2,780 ft., Dr. 66, Target/185th 8 a.m.
backpack. Spectacular scenery in a historically classic area. We will start at Graves Creek and hike down river 40+ miles to Foster Bar. One way hike with car shuttle. Limited to 10. Contact leader for details if interested.
HK B2 Apr 20 (Wed) Bull of the Woods (W). Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Mt. Jefferson is up close and personal from this lookout site. Long, slow drive; expect a long day. 7.1 miles, 2,000 ft., Dr. 142, Gateway 8 a.m.
HK B2.5 Apr 29 (Fri) Cape Lookout to Sand Lake Hike. William O’Brien. It’s spring and the weather is getting better, so let’s head out to Cape Lookout and view the ocean. We will start at the upper parking lot and hike out to the end of the Cape, a great ocean viewpoint. Coming back we will take the south trail down to the beach and enjoy and old fashioned beach walk to Sand Lake. 10.6 miles, 500 ft., Dr. 180, State Park, Target/185th 8 a.m.
HK A1.5 Apr 23 (Sat) Wildcat Mountain. Flora Huber 503-6585710. Wilderness—Limit 12. Views of wildflowers, Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens. 7.4 miles, 800 ft., Dr. 80, TH, Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK A2 Apr 23 (Sat) 4T Hike. William O’Brien. Don Baack, a SW Portland community activist, and his son designed this hike to introduce newcomers in Portland to all the active transport modes in the city (trail, trolley ,train, tram=4T). We will start at the MAX elevator at the zoo and proceed across Hwy. 26 and up to Council Crest, highest point in Portland, then down the Marquam Trail to OHSU. We’ll take the tram ( free) down to the waterfront and ride the trolley to Pioneer Square, before taking the MAX back to the zoo. Parking: $1.60/ hour; Trimet pass: $5/day. 5 miles, 400 ft., Dr. 5, Forest Park, Zoo MAX Elevator 9 a.m.
HK A2 Apr 30 (Sat) Heritage Trees #1: Ladd’s Addition. Tom Guyot 503-761-9519. This moderately paced
urban hike will focus on Heritage Trees growing in and east of Ladd’s Addition. We will see and learn about 13 species of beautiful trees protected by the city. We’ll also see another uniquely Portland feature—miniature bronze sculptures along Division. This hike is a dog friendly activity. Park on the streets leading to the Circle in the center of Ladd’s Addition and meet in front of the coffee shop on the SE edge of the circle. 4.50 miles, 150 ft., Dr. 0 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 30 (Sat) Dalles Mountain. Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. A flower ramble across the upper slopes of Dalles Mt—just across the Columbia from the Dalles. We will hike from the old ranch to the top of Stacker Butte (3200 ft.). 6 miles, 1,800 ft., Dr. 194, State Park, Gateway 8 a.m.
SPRING INTO ACTION
Did you make a New Yea’rs resolution to get in shape this year? Have you slacked off on your outdoor activities this winter? Then you should participate in Spring into Action! The focus is on getting healthy, having fun, and having the opportuinty to win a prize! Track your mileage and elevation gain from Feb. 1–May 31 using the log you’ll find here: mazamas.org/hike (you’ll need your hike leader ot sign your log at the end of each hike).
Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
HK B2.5 Apr 23 (Sat) Wahkeena to Devil’s Rest. Kate Evans 503635-6540. We’ll stop at Wahkeena Springs on the way up if folks are interested. Lunch on the bluff overlooking the Gorge and celebrate Shakespeare’s birthday. Read your favorite sonnet? Identify your favorite play or character? Remember the Bard! 7.2 miles, 2,400 ft., Dr. 44, Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Apr 24 (Sun) Memaloose Hills Loop. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wildflower hike. Great time to enjoy the balsamroot in bloom. More than half of the route is off-trail. 6 miles, 500 ft., Dr. 140, Gateway 8 a.m. 2 Apr 27 (Wed) Gales CreekStorey Burn Loop. Tony Spiering 503-680-8112. Woodsy hike in the Coast Range up Gales Creek to top on Storey Burn then under highway bridge for lunch before returning to trailhead. Back in town early PM. 8 mi., 1,400 ft., Dr. 50, 8 a.m. BP Apr 28 (Thu) Rogue River Backpack. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. This is a great 4-day, 3-night
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
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OUTINGS
ADVENTURE TRAVEL—FOREIGN & DOMESTIC
CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas. org for more information.
OREGON COAST HIKING AUGUST 8-14 Based out of William M. Tugman State Park, we will hike approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Florence to Bandon, using car shuttles to connect segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach with traverses through the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. This is an interesting area with spectacular scenery.
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Participants are responsible for their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals (you may attend for less than 7 days if desired). Outing cost will range from $95–$190 depending on the number of participants. A $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July 15. Participants should make reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at William M. Tugman SP. Outing leader is Joe Whittington, joewhittington@ gmail.com, 503-297-6344.
CRATER LAKE OUTING DATES: AUGUST 13–20, 2016 Full—Alternates Only Outing Leader: Richard Getgen
CLIMBING 14ER’S IN THE COLORADO SAN JUANS AUGUST 20–28, 2016 Travel to the San Juan range of southern Colorado to attempt five 14,000+ foot peaks (Handies, Redcloud/Sunshine, Uncompahgre, Wetterhorn), climbing level class 1 to class 3. Participants responsible for making their own transportation and car rental arrangements. Lodging is not included (we will tent camp at campgrounds/RV parks). Outing cost $290–210 for 6–10 participants. A $100 deposit is required, with sign-up by June
15. Contact outing leader Bob Breivogel (breivog@teleport.com) or assistant leader Tom Davidson (tedclimbs@gmail.com) for more information or to apply.
LOST COAST TRAIL TREK SEP. 15–22 Hike 60 miles along a wild and scenic portion of the northern California coast between Eureka and Ft. Bragg, utilizing a shuttle service to make this a one-way journey. Travel light and fast, around 10 miles per day with elevation gain varying from near level to 2,000 ft. Cost is $347– $432 ( for six–eight participants), covering all fees, shuttle, and lodging costs. Signup deadline June 30. $100 deposit is required upon acceptance. Contact leader Gary Bishop, gbish90@ hotmail.com, or assistant Darin Richardson, darin@delineate.net, for more information.
GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS—HIKES & CULTURE SEP. 25–OCT. 1 Explore spectacular Appalachian scenery and experience culture in western North Carolina. There will be B-level hikes, 7–8 miles with elevation gain up to 2,000 ft., with options for harder ones. Typical pace will be leisurely. Cost is $495–$565, depending on number of participants, includes lodging, one meal, and all fees. Participants are responsible for their meals, airline cost (estimated $550), and car rental. Maximum 26 participants. $200 deposit due June 30. For information and approval to participate, contact leader Bill Dewsnap, billdewsnap@ gmail.com, 503-260-6712. For information only, contact assistant leader: Tony Spiering aespiering@gmail.com, 503-6808112.
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc. org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”
THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. by Jamie Anderson, Mazamas Member Services Manager The March meeting of Executive Council (EC) focused on strategic initiatives, with a focus on Leadership Development, Youth Outreach, and institutional culture. In general news, Natalie Lozano, a master gardener volunteering at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), announced that the MMC has been awarded a rare platinum certification by the Audubon Society’s Backyard Habitat program. This comes after months of work by Natalie, as well as efforts of past volunteers, especially Dick Pugh and Chris Mackert. There are two good pieces of advocacy news. Thanks to the efforts of Keith Dallenbach and Kellie Rice of the Madrone Wall Preservation Council in partnership with the Mazamas, the Access Fund, the AAC, and many others, climbing may be opening again at Madrone Wall. The Mazamas have been involved for more than eighteen years of letter writing, financial support, and advocacy and plan to stay engaged in the conversation to work towards a park opening in late summer 2017. Second, Senator Wyden and Representative Blumenauer introduced legislation to improve recreation access throughout the country. The proposed legislation is the product of collaborative
work of the Mazamas with Outdoor Alliance, Outdoor Industry Association, Travel Oregon, and other recreation groups. The Leadership Development team has been creating a skills inventory to improve training options and lead to the development of different types of leaders and explore pathways that allow for flexible training options and account for experience. Next up is, a three-year plan to operationalize recommendations and reimagine organization-wide leadership, to be presented in August. Youth Outreach just completed its second year of the Mazama Mountain Science School (MMSS) with more than 150 students. Most notably this year, of the 57 students from the Centennial School District, only 4 had ever been to Mt. Hood. In addition to MMSS, the Youth Outreach Committee has recently completed a Leave No Trace curriculum and has a vision to develop a progressive outreach and training program to serve community partners. This program was made possible in part by the Gray Family Foundation and donors. In order to continue to grow the program, especially among underserved populations, the Mazamas will need to continue to fundraise and apply for grants. The committee also recommend engaging a part-time youth program coordinator next fiscal year. In order to meet the immediate needs of the project, EC formally approved
youth policies that have been in practice the past year. EC also reviewed the results of the two culture meetings held earlier this year. The meetings confirmed that the Mazamas agree with the concepts laid out in our official mission, vision, and values, but that there are some gaps between those value and practice. See page 20 for more information. To that end, EC approved a volunteer agreement, with the expectation that an implementation plan be developed by the end of summer. Additionally, two proposals for bylaws changes were discussed to clarify EC’s role and authority. However, neither proposal went to a vote. The IT project continues to be a priority. To that end, Peter Tung was engaged to be the Project Manager for the build phase. Peter comes to the Mazamas as a Social Venture Partner Encore Fellow after a 25-year career in project management at Intel. The SVP program helps match experienced professionals with nonprofits such as the Mazamas to help increase our impact. The project is in vendor selection phase. EC retired into Executive Session to discuss selection, and the project budget will be reviewed with the Mazamas Foundation with the aim of contracting at the April meeting.
Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes. Go to: mazamas.org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports.
Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes
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