December 2016 Mazama Magazine by Mazamas

DECEMBER 2016 VOL. 98 | NO.12

HONORING FRED BECKEYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LITERARY ACHIEVEMENTS TRAVELING BACK IN TIME: AN EVENING WITH DOUG ROBINSON BOOK REVIEW: OF MOUNTAINS AND MEN REMEMBERING BETTY PARKER & GILBERT STAENDER

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Clockwise, from left: Fred Beckey and Sasha DiGiulian at Revolution Hall during The Summit. Photo: Jacob Raab. Katie Mills, Todd Torres, and Nick Pappas presenting "Inquisition of the Arrigetch" at the MMC. Photo: Nicole Wasko. Climber competing at the Portland Ice Comp. Photo: Jacob Raab.

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK • Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@ mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month (Dec. & Jan); starting in February 2017, Executive Council will meet at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of the month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, and Michael Vincerra. (publications_group@mazamas.org) Cover: Pushing through the last few steps to the summit of Mt. Hood on a beautiful Oregon morning. Photo: Grant Garrett.

Feature Articles Solar Power at the MMC, p. 8 Mazama Awards: Tradition, Recognition, and a New Direction, p. 11 Honoring Fred Beckey's Literary Achievements, p. 15 Traveling Back in Time: An Evening with Doug Robinson, p. 16 Book Review: Of Mountains and Men, p. 19 Obituaries: Betty Parker & Gilbert Staender, p. 22 Portland Alpine Fest Photo of the Year Contest Winners, p. 24

Monthly Columns

Executive Director's Report, p. 4 Upcoming Opportunities, p. 5 Membership Report, p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 6 Evening Travel Programs, p. 12 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 14 Mazama Families, p. 14 Successful Climbers, p. 13 Outings, p. 20 Classic Mazamas, p. 22 Mazama Lodge, p. 27 Trail Trips, p. 28 Executive Council, p. 30

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 18 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 28 Centered in Motion, p. 29 Classifieds, p. 28 Climb Max Mountaineering, p.11 Embark Adventures, p. 21 Green Trails Maps, p. 31 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Hardwear, p. 7 Mountain Shop, p. 32 Next Adventure, p. 15 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 5 Rock & Ice Magazine, p. 26 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, p. 10 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 26

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising DECEMBER 2016 3

We Were Born for This Dear friends and members, On a summer Mazama climb in the Cascades we will often have a rope team of three or four rugged and sweaty individuals who have differing views on faith, different jobs and incomes, and who represent a wide spectrum of social and political views. But when you’re on belay on rock or ice in the mountains, none of that matters. What brings us together at the Mazamas is our shared love of adventure in the mountains, and the deeply rooted importance we place on protecting places of sublime beauty and biodiversity. One could say that the Mazamas was born to share and protect the beauty of the mountains, and all of our longtime members are proud to be part of a diverse community with a tradition of protecting these values for more than 122 years. And while we as Mazamas may be united in our love of the mountains, after the November election it has sometimes been hard to see what it is that unites us all as Americans. And even though our membership is politically diverse, it is safe to say that the process leading up to the election, and the incredible negativity that we saw and felt in the aftermath was painful for everyone. In the days following the election, I received several calls and emails asking how the Mazamas would respond now that the election was over, and how they, as concerned members, could engage and help. These requests were serious, passionate, and deeply emotional. What they were saying, and what we at the Mazamas are indeed concerned about, is that several bedrock conservation and outdoor access principles are now at risk. In recent years, we’ve had an administration in Washington, D.C. who generally shared our values around conservation, who worked to keep public lands public, and who took real action to improve access for everyone to the great outdoors. We’ve had a Secretary of the Interior who used to run REI who worked openly on mitigating climate change. And we have had a President who protected more land and water than any President in history, and who even cared enough about climbing to take the time to call Tommy Caldwell on his cell phone and congratulate him when he topped out on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite Valley last year. While we are certainly facing big changes ahead, the election across our country did not 4 MAZAMAS

represent a wholesale reversal of opinion towards conservation and the value of the outdoors. Many successful ballot measures were approved across the country, including over $4.4 billion to fund land acquisitions, water quality, improving parks and trails, and policy-related measures. Right here in Oregon, and with strong support by Mazamas, Measure 99 passed, allocating $22 million per year to permanently fund one week of Outdoor School for every 5th or 6th grader in the state and build long-term public support for conservation in Oregon. As we move forward in uncertain times, with big risks ahead, it is important for you to know that the Mazamas values, vision, and goals have not changed. Regardless of what actions the next administration and congress take, the Mazamas will work to preserve and protect our mountains, our parks, our forests, and our glaciers. We will work to ensure that public lands remain public and accessible to everyone, and that our federal land management agencies are properly funded. And we will continue to invest heavily in promoting responsible recreation and outdoor ethics through our programs. This election places the Mazamas back in an activist role, where we’re representing the minority voice on our core issues. We will need to build new partnerships and fight for our values like never before. But if we look back at our history we will see that we were born for this! Our founders and honorary members like William Steele, Yvon Chouinard, and John Muir, who like us were climbers, backcountry skiers, and hikers, were also some of the first and most iconic activists, fighting for conservation and access for outdoor recreation. What’s different this time is that, while we’re in the minority in Washington D.C., we know that the majority of Americans agree with us on these issues, and because of that we should have more support and more resources than ever before. Yes, my friends, the next four years will be challenging and difficult, but we are well positioned and well prepared to take on the fight. We were born for this.

Lee Davis, Executive Director

Mazama Advocacy The Mazamas is working to lead and inspire the movement to increase the value of outdoor recreation in Oregon and the Northwest. We aim to do this by: ▶▶ Organizing the voices of responsible recreation, conservation, and the outdoor industry to consistently communicate our priorities ▶▶ Communicating the size and importance of the outdoor industry to the culture and character of our communities ▶▶ Promoting the inherent benefits of outdoor recreation to the health of our people, our communities, and our planet ▶▶ Engaging our state and federal legislators in prioritizing and acting on policy to promote outdoor access, education, and conservation ▶▶ Making Oregon the next state to create a state level office of outdoor recreation

Upcoming Opportunities OPEN CLIMB

ADVANCED ROCK

Practice Skills at the MMC

Applications Due Dec. 30

Come and practice your skills on the instructional rock and ice walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The purpose of these sessions is for practice and training. No instruction will be supplied; all climbers are expected to have prior training. Special ice tools will be available for use on the ice wall.

Applications are now being accepted for the Mazama Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad class (AR), which takes place March– May 2017. For more information about the course and to apply, visit mazamas.org/ education-classes/advanced-rock/.

▶▶ Prerequisite: Prior participation in Mazama climbing schools and/or the ability to demonstrate proper belay technique. ▶▶ Dates: Dec. 18, Jan. 8, Feb. 12, March 5 ▶▶ Hours: 10 a.m.–3 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $10 (cash only) Funds to go to climbing wall costs, holds and foam.

EXPEDITION GRANTS Applications Due Dec. 31 If you’re planning an expedition/ climbing trip next year, why not apply for an expedition grant? The Expedition Committee could help make it happen with a grant, loaner gear or training. See page 13 for more details.

BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST Feb 3, 4 at the Kiggins Theatre (Vancouver, WA) Feb 6, 7, 8 at Cinema 21 Feb 9, 10, 11 at Revolution Hall There are three nights of unique line-ups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! There are three opportunities in the Portland Metro area this year for the Banff Mountain Film Fest due to popular demand. TICKETS GO FAST! ...the tour has sold out in one week the past three years. So don't wait, grab your tickets today! ▶▶ Cinema 21 tickets: http://www. awloutdoors.org/banffpdxc21 ▶▶ Revolution Hall tickets: http://www. awloutdoors.org/banffpdxrevhall ▶▶ Kiggins tickets: brownpapertickets. com/event/2582594

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: 30 Alia Breon—Mt. St. Helens Eric Breon—Mt. St. Helens Nicholas Burns—South Sister Derek Cardinale—South Sister Asa Christiana—Mt. St. Helens Andrew Collard—Mt. Adams Steve Gale—Mt. St. Helens Ronald Gallahan—Mt. Adams Chris Gardner—Mt. St. Helens Gayle Griffin—Mt. Adams David Grover—South Sister Leslie Grush—Mt. Fuji Hemalatha Gurumoorthy— Mt. St. Helens Mattox Hall—Glacier Peak Holly Hendrickson—Mt. Hood Scott Isa—Mt. Adams

Charlie Kohlmeier—Mt. Hood Linda Lazzeri—Mt. Hood Kristi Luckman—South Sister Christopher Machado— Mt. Adams Greg Macknight—Mt. St. Helens Greg Mercurio—Mt. Adams Oksoon Mora—Mt. Adams Meghan Mueller-Cox—Mt. St. Helens Thomas Mynes—Mt. St. Helens Miki O’Connor—South Sister Robert Peterson—Glacier Peak Jacqueline Renny—Mt. St. Helens Leilani Speer—South Sister Ava Williams—South Sister

Reinstatements: 7 William Anderson (2012), Michael Earp (1988), Darrin Funk (2007), Eric Geisler (2001), Andrew Rios (2012), Freda Sherburne (1994), Ingeborg Winters (1982) Deceased: 4 Lawrence Sandstrom (1964), Gilbert Staender (1945), David Thomson (1980), John Westgate (1964)

Total Membership: Oct. 2016—3,683; Oct. 2015—3,560 DECEMBER 2016 5

Volunteer Opportunities NOMINATING COMMITTEE MEMBERS ONGOING Two members needed, one to fill a one-year vacancy (term ends in Sept. 2017) and one to fill a two-year vacancy (term ends Sept. 2018). This is an opportunity to search for and provide the organization with qualified candidates to run for positions on the Executive Council. (Reference Mazamas Bylaws, October 2012, ARTICLE VII— NOMINATIONS AND ELECTIONS, Section 1.) Members of the Mazama Nominating Committee “shall nominate candidates for Executive Council, to gather the selfnominations for Nominating Committee position, and to administer the election process.” This committee consists of nine members, each of whom serve a threeyear term, with three of the nine members leaving each year, replaced by three new members who will serve three years. Skills that help the Nominating Committee succeed are a background or interest in one or more of the following sectors: not-for-profit leadership; outreach interest and capabilities; human resource recruiting experience; knowledge of Mazamas members’ experiences and backgrounds (both in the Mazamas and in their professional or outside lives). Serving on this committee helps shape the membership of the Executive Council. Thank you for your consideration! If you have suggestions for someone other than yourself, we welcome that as well. Please contact chair Alex Fox at nominating@mazamas.org

Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl.com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

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OUTREACH TEAM LEADER

ONGOING Are you passionate about the Mazamas? Are you great at organizing people? Then perhaps you are our next Outreach Team Leader! This is a great volunteer opportunity for someone who is outgoing, has a lot of connections, and wants to give back to the organization. Interested in learning more? Contact: Marketing & Communications Director, sarah@ mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED: WHAT’S YOUR OWYHEE STORY? ONGOING Have you had an indelible adventure in Oregon’s Owyhee Canyonlands? The Owyhee Canyonlands Campaign is seeking volunteers to write about their experiences in the Owyhee and why they care about this special place. The piece, along with the author’s photo, will be posted to the Wild Owyhee blog. This is a personal, easy, and wonderful way to support the effort to protect the Owyhee Canyonlands! Interested? Contact Corie at corie@ wildowyhee.org or 541-330-2638.

LIBRARY & ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS ONGOING Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in Oregon mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helpful, not mandatory. Please contact Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to sign up or learn more.

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES

ONGOING The Mazama Families program offers regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs. Hike Leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor. Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com.

AYM CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS

ONGOING Indoor rock climbing is held oncea-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. Choose the climbing gym of your choice! Contact aym@mazamas.org if you would be interested in hosting.

MAZAMA FAMILIES ONGOING The Mazama Families Committee has openings for new members to join the committee for 2016–2017. If you would like to help this strong program carry forward into the future, please consider joining the committee. To express your interest, or for more information, email families@mazamas. org.

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR

ONGOING The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are seeking to add a new member to their team who will coordinate and support UES volunteers, both team captains and day-of volunteers. If you are interested in helping out, please contact ues@mazamas.org.

Stay Connected

STORYTELLERS, WRITERS, AND EDITORS WANTED!

ONGOING Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your collegeera editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group? The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! We meet the first Tuesday of the month at 6 p.m. at the MMC. For more information, please contact Marketing & Communications Director Sarah Bradham (sarah@mazamas.org).

TREE PLANTING DEC. 3, 8:45 A.M.–1 P.M. Join the Conservation Committee as they practice stewardship in our own backyard. We’ll be teaming up with Friends of Trees to plant native trees and shrubs at Veteran’s Creek (9795 SE Mt. Scott Blvd.) in the salmon-bearing Johnson Creek Watershed. Breakfast snacks, hot chocolate/coffee, gloves, and tools provided. All you need to bring is yourself, dressed for the weather, with sturdy, closed-toe shoes. Saturday, Dec. 3, 8:45 a.m.–1 p.m. Sign-up here: http:// bit.ly/2eaf4vl Questions? Contact Lea Wilson, lea.ione.w@gmail.com

▶▶ Like us on Facebook: facebook. com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶ Subscribe to our blog: mazamas. blogspot.com ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl. com/MazamasAds for details.

Mazama Gear Check out a variety of new Mazama products in our CafePress store: cafepress.com/ mazamas. You'll find t-shirts, sweatshirts, mugs, onesies, sippy cups, and more!

Photo: Ken Etze

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DECEMBER 2016 7

Solar Power at the MMC Coming February 2017 by Jeff Hawkins In the fall of 2006 it became clear to the Conservation Committee that we were in the age of climate change and the Mazamasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Mission to protect the mountain environment assumed a new urgency. We needed to do more. We needed direct links between our mission and our own actions. This led us to a vision for reducing the Mazamas carbon footprint. The committee first calculated the Mazamasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; carbon footprint, which mostly consists of emissions from automotive miles driven to our various activities, followed by the MMC and the lodge utilitiesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;electricity, natural gas, and heating oil. Then in spring 2007 we created and hosted the Melting Mountains Conference for a packed house in the MMC. Glaciologist Andrew Fountain spoke along with political leaders from the City of Portland, Metro, and the Oregon Legislature. In the fall of 2009 we started a tree planting program and have worked in the Sandy Basin Watershed nearly every spring and fall for eight years planting an estimated 6,500 trees. There have been small efforts too, like installing a hand dryer in the restroom at the MMC to reduce a huge consumption of paper towels. The next action is to install a solar electric array on the MMC. We tried once in 2008, but ran into legal issues and an economic recession that prevented us from obtaining financing. There were also important concerns about penetrating the MMC roof for attachment. Things have changed. Installers now have available non-penetrating clamps for panel attachment to the seams of the MMC roof. Costs have come down by a factor of four. And there is better understanding on how to structure financing that works for non-profits.

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P144 P panels P265 P watts each P38,160 P watts total PPower P generated: 41,400 kwh/yr P~60% P of MMC usage P$4,300 P per year savings P$130,000 P total savings over 25 years

Interesting fact: The wettest and cloudiest place in Oregon, Astoria, has more sunshine than sunniest place in Germany who is the global leader is solar energy generation.

HERE ARE SOME BASIC PARTS OF THE PLAN: ▶▶ A Power Purchase Agreement (PPA) is the legal structure we will be using to fund the array. It forms a relationship between an owner (Elemental energy) and a host (Mazama MMC). The owner finances the array. The host has the array on their building and purchases the power from the owner. This is an especially beneficial arrangement for the Mazamas. It allows us to work with a for-profit partner who can take advantage of the Federal Investment Tax Credit which is 43% of the funding. ▶▶ PPAs come in variations. We will be using a prepaid PPA where the value of power to be generated over the duration of the contract is estimated and is paid up front. This is less complicated than making quarterly payments based on actual power generated and is significantly less costly

due to eliminating administration— meter reading, billing, power payments and loan repayment to investors. ▶▶ The Mazamas Foundation will be providing a loan to the Mazamas for the power pre-payment. ▶▶ The array will generate ~41.4 kWh/year, which is estimated as 60 percent of the MMC’s electricity usage and is worth $4,300/year. The Mazamas will pay off the Foundation loan with these savings. ▶▶ Elemental Energy, our for-profit partner (also the installer), will own the array for 10 years at which point the Mazamas will purchase the array at fair market value. THERE ARE OTHER COSTS: ▶▶ We owe the Oregon Clean Power Coop $2,696 for developing the PPA contract and for arranging a for-profit partner. This will be loaned to the Mazamas by the Foundation.

▶▶ Legal review of the PPA has been done and paid for from the Mazamas general spending account. ▶▶ Installation of safety anchors, structural improvement, gutter repair, roof cleaning and tree removal are estimated to cost $10,000. This will be paid for by member contributions and the MMC maintenance account. ▶▶ End of contract purchase is currently estimated at $2538. The solar array will be grid tied, that is, it will produce power only when the electrical grid is operating. There will be no batteries. We will not be able to power the MMC when PGE’s grid is down. PGE will be our virtual battery. Excess power generated during the peak months of March through August will be “stored” as credits for use during the winter months when generation is lower and heating cost is higher. See illustration.

continued on next page DECEMBER 2016 9

Project Funding Energy Trust of Oregon Grant $35,741 Prepaid Value of Power (Foundation Loan)

$15,000

Federal Investment Tax Credit $39,115 Total Project Cost

Energy Trust of Oregon

Federal Investment Tax Credit

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40%

$89,115 Prepaid Value of Power

17%

Solar, continued from previous page IN EVERY PROJECT THERE ARE CONCERNS. THESE ARE THE MOST COMMONLY EXPRESSED AND OUR RESPONSES, ▶▶ Roof life: Two independent roof inspections indicate that the MMC roof is in excellent condition with an estimated life of 25 years or longer. ▶▶ Roof attachment: We will be using a clamp that is designed to attach to the standing seam on the roof without penetration. ▶▶ Roof strength: The roof is secured to the building along the seams with one screw every two feet. This is standard, but our roof inspector believes it is insufficient to safely support the weight of the array. We are seeking input from structural engineers that might lead us to add more screws at the top of each roof panel. Other roof work will be done at the same time—cleaning, repairing gutters, and adding safety anchors for array installation and future maintenance. ▶▶ Building strength: The trusses are on 24-inch spacing and in this situation the City of Portland does not require structural engineering. We have elected to do this anyway. Though when we

had this done in 2008 the building was found to be more than strong enough for the then proposed 20 kW array that was only 60 percent the size of the current 37.4 kW array. ▶▶ Legal issues: The PPA that will be in place between Mazamas and Elemental Energy was reviewed on behalf of the Mazamas by David Van’t Hof, an attorney who focuses on sustainability, clean technology, renewable energy and carbon regulation. David is also a Mazama member. ▶▶ Contractor experience: Elemental Energy has been in business since 2008 and has installed nearly 300 hundred in Oregon and internationally. The have used this clamping system before. ▶▶ Should anything go wrong, in spite of our best efforts, the Mazamas Foundation will have insurance for damage to the structure and for the replacement value of the array. The next steps are to sign contracts, complete the detailed design of the array, submit plans to PGE for pre-approval,

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order materials, and complete installation by the end of February. Many thanks to many people for the participation and support along the way. ▶▶ A long list of people in 2008 who contributed so much during the first attempt. You all know who you are. ▶▶ Dan Orzech at Oregon Clean Power Coop for creating the current contracts and identifying our financial partner. ▶▶ David Van’t Hof for legal review. ▶▶ The Foundation Committee for detailed review of the contract, asking all the important questions and providing the loan to the Mazamas. ▶▶ Bob Breivogel, John Rettig, Dan Crisp, Gerry Itkin and Jeff Hawkins for member financial contributions Come March your MMC will begin producing half of its annual power usage for the next 25 years—$4,300/year and approximately $130,000 total. And perhaps more importantly, we will be actively living the values we hold dear by protecting the environment we all cherish.

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MAZAMA AWARDS:

Tradition, Recognition, and a New Direction by Chris Kruell Mazama Vice-President The Mazamas has a longstanding tradition of recognizing outstanding achievements of our members. Beginning with the Parker Cup in 1925, we have acknowledged these accomplishments, often in conjunction with a dinner held in November or December since 1925. In the late 90s and early 00s the Annual Banquet suffered from lack of attendance and it became clear that we needed to try a different approach to the fall gathering to be financially responsible and to maintain relevance in a changing community. The Annual Banquet morphed into the Annual Celebration in 2006, but the event still saw big swings in attendanceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;high numbers when the guest speaker resonated with members, and extremely low numbers when they did not. As a result, in 2013 we adopted a fiveyear plan to create a new event, the Portland Alpine Festival, in an attempt

to combine the celebration of our organization and its achievements with an outreach effort to the greater outdoor recreation community. The Portland Alpine Fest has been a big success in many ways. Both members and nonmember alike enjoy the clinics, speaker series, and The Summit, and the festival has increased its attendance each year. However, the feedback from the membership was that the Mazama awards were not a good fit at this new eventâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the awards felt rushed, lost in the shuffle of the larger festival, and awardees did not feel well recognized in this format. We hear you and fully agree with this assessment. We have decided to separate our awards event from the Portland Alpine Festival because the achievements of the Mazamas are worthy of a standalone awards ceremony, which will be held in the spring of 2017. This event will recognize our volunteers and awardees in an event held specifically for the Mazamas membership.

This event will be a way to show our newest members, as well as potential members, the incredible spirit of volunteerism of the Mazamas and their tenacity to tackle big goals. By having two large events, an internal Mazama-focused event in the spring and a community-focused event in the fall, we can both celebrate our member achievements and share our love of mountain recreation with the broader community. This will allow us to continue to bring the Mazama message of mountaineering education, activities, and conservation to our community. The spring event is in the planning stages and as further details emerge, we will communicate them to you via the Bulletin, email, and social media. Our primary goals are to create an event where members, volunteers, and awardees feel recognized for their accomplishments, an event that is fun and engaging, and that is accessible to all members. We promise it will be one to look forward to!

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EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAYS AT 7 P.M, MID-OCT. THROUGH MID-APRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER.

Climbing the Iron Paths of the Dolomites

Bicycling the Last Frontier

Wednesday, Dec. 7

Tim Bailey and John Greengo bicycled across Alaska from bottom to top, traveling more than 1,400 miles over some of the most isolated roads on the continent. Their adventure began at Homer on the Kenai Peninsula, and ended on the edge of the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay, the most northerly point accessible by road. Along the way, they experienced Alaska in all of its rugged glory: breathtaking scenery, expansive wilderness, fascinating wildlife, challenging roads and severe weather. Join Tim Bailey as he shares a multi-media presentation about his 33-day adventure.

Mazama member John Leary, Jim Palo, John Creager and Terry Olson experienced the thrill of walking and climbing via ferrata in the Dolomites in Italy. A via ferrata, The Iron Way, is a mountain route equipped with steel cables, ladders, fixed anchors, and a few wooden walkways and suspended bridges. The via ferrata provide access to places normally reserved for rock climbers. Based out of the beautiful village of Cortina, and some nights in mountain rifugios, they had two fantastic weeks of climbing and were stopped in their tracks by amazing views from a perspective that few have the opportunity to experience. Climbing via ferratas makes one feel like a kid in Disneyland. The beautiful European architecture in Munich, Bolzano—where they saw Otzi, the 5300 year old Iceman— and Venice was a huge added bonus.

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Wednesday, Dec. 14

Holiday—No Program Wednesday, Dec. 21

Holiday—No Program Wednesday, Dec. 28

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

DEADLINE TO APPLY IS DEC. 31, 2016

Expedition Grants WHY NOT APPLY FOR A MAZAMA EXPEDITION GRANT? If you’re planning an expedition/climbing trip next year, why not apply for an expedition grant? The Expedition Committee could help make it happen with a grant, loaner gear, or training. Also, applications will be accepted for climbing trips not necessarily considered an expedition. The intent is to create an opportunity for Mazamas to gain experience and develop the skills leading to bigger trips in the future. Go to the Mazamas website and select Resources/Grants/ Expedition Grants to submit your application by Dec. 31, 2016. For information and/or questions, email the expedition committee at expedition@mazamas.org.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR SUCCESSFUL SUMMITS! Sept. 23, Plummer Pinnacle Saddle. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Bertie August, Cecille Beyl, Aaron Johnson, Larry Murry, Johnson, Ed, Johnson, Sandra. Oct. 22, Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Jan Roethle. Lori Coyner, Valerie Uskoski.

DECEMBER 2016 13

AYM

Keith Dechant leads a group to the beautiful and little-known Pup Creek Falls, in November. Photo: Sandor Lau.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART NORTHWEST ADVENTURE FILM FEST AT BASE CAMP BREWING, DEC. 1 Enjoy an evening of outdoor adventure themed short films at Base Camp Brewing Company, 930 SE Oak St. Portland, on Thursday, Dec. 1. One of the films is by AYM leader Sándor Lau. Meet at 6:15 p.m. for socializing and refreshments. Films start at 7 p.m. Free. This is in the enclosed outdoor seating area, so dress appropriately. Food carts on site. RSVP on Meetup. WINTER WEEKEND, JANUARY 27–29 Winter Weekend is coming at the Mazama Lodge in Government Camp. Two days of snow sports and two nights of catered meals, board games, roaring fire, and refreshing beverages. More details available on our Meetup page, search for "Adventurous Young Mazamas." WINTER ADVENTURES Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking trips coming soon! Watch our website and Meetup. Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. We also host board game night on the first Wednesday of the month (check our website and Meetup page for location, they rotate every month!).

MAZAMA FAMILIES “So much of the Committee’s work is geared toward youth and their potential future contributions to the Mazamas. I wanted to make sure they had a voice, particularly in our education and events planning.” —Charles Blanke (Mazamas Families Committee Chair) Upcoming Mazamas Families Events ▶▶ Saturday, Dec. 10: Families Hike—Trail of Ten Falls, 8:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m. ▶▶ Tuesday, Dec. 20: Families Rock Skills, 5–8 p.m. ▶▶ Thursday, Dec. 22: Families Committee Meeting, 6:30–8 p.m.* Find more info on our events at: mazamas.org/activities-events/mazamafamilies/ 14 MAZAMAS

The Families Committee would like to welcome our first youth member, Jake Norton. Jake completed the inaugural Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) class in 2014–15 at age 14. He has been an enthusiastic volunteer for subsequent FM101 classes, recently assisting with the FM101 field session at Horsethief Butte. The Families Committee felt it was important to recruit a youth member to enhance the connection of our activities and education to youth climbers. When asked what he wanted to achieve by serving as a volunteer on the committee, Jake said he really wants to find ways to provide more support and structure to expand climbing opportunities for youth in the Mazamas.

We are always adding new events for getting outdoors! Watch both the mazamas.org/activities/aym page and the AYM Meetup page for the most up to date schedule.

Q&A WITH JAKE NORTON ▶▶ What is your favorite outdoor activity? Rock Climbing ▶▶ What is your most memorable outdoor adventure? My most memorable time was probably when I rappelled off of Rooster Rock. ▶▶ What is your next climbing goal? Lead climb outside. ▶▶ What is your favorite place to climb or go to for outdoor adventure? Favorite place to climb, so far, is Smith Rock, and best outdoor adventure is anywhere with friends. ▶▶ What drew you to get involved in climbing and other outdoor endeavors? I guess I got into outdoor endeavors by following my parents. They are the ones who showed it to me. I might have been interested in rock climbing before they did BCEP though. Currently, I am going on hikes every couple of weekends and hopefully in spring will be able to go climbing outdoors more frequently.

*Anyone interested in helping the Families Committee move forward is welcome to attend our committee meetings. Agendas are provided one week in advance to all who RSVP to families@mazamas.org. This meeting will take place at the MMC in meeting room #1 (basement).

Honoring Fred Beckey's Literary Achievements A display of Beckey's works at The Summit at Revolution Hall on Nov. 19. Photo: Mathew Brock.

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Archives Manager While Fred Beckey may be known by most as the Northwest’s finest and most prolific climber, and a seminal figure in North American mountaineering, focus on his climbing career alone fails to capture his impact on, and contribution, to climbing. Over the course of seven decades, Fred has published a wide range of books, ranging from local and regional climbing guides, and historical treatises, to gripping personal narratives of his climbing adventures. His Cascade climbing alone provides a broad range of information (including history and geology for and astounding range of peaks, paving the way for countless amateur climbers and adventurers. Fred Beckey begins his literary career with the Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington, published in 1949 by the American Alpine Club, the first comprehensive guide to Northwest peaks. After approaching the Seattle-based Mountaineers, the Alpine

On Display at The Summit

Club agreed to release a few thousand copies for a flat fee. A revised edition, as well as a supplement, followed in 1953, and again in 1960. In 1965 the Mountaineers published Beckey's and Eric Bjornstad’s Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas. The Challenge of the North Cascades followed in 1969 and is often praised as his best work. The book chronicles his more than three decades of climbing and exploring the North Cascade peaks and countless first ascents (his bold second ascent of the formidable Mt. Waddington as a teen (“used felt pullovers on tennis shoes”) being notable. Four years later, Beckey published the first volume of the Cascade Alpine Guide, Columbia River to Stevens Pass. Volume Two, Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass followed in 1977, and Volume Three, Rainy Pass to Fraser River, in 1981. The series became known affectionately as the “Beckey Bible,” or simply, the “Beckey.” Now in its third edition, the books remain as popular as ever. Between Vols. One and Two, Beckey published the Darrington & Index Rock Climbing Guide in 1976. In 1999 Becky and long-time guide Alex Van Steen published Climbing Mount

Rainier, highlighting fifty alternate routes to the summit. In 2003 Beckey finished his most expansive project to date, the 563-page Range of Glaciers. Published by the Oregon Historical Society Press, the books is a comprehensive accounting of the nineteenth-century exploration and survey of the Northern Cascade Range. Beckey traveled widely in researching the book, visiting archives and libraries across the United States and Canada. In 2011 Patagonia Books published Fred Beckey’s 100 Favorite North American Climbs, a coffee-table-sized magnum opus. The book, filled with hand-drawn topos, photographs, narrative description, and plenty of notes, chronicles Beckey’s detailed knowledge of the mountains and climb routes he knows and loves. Fred Beckey’s body of literary work is amazing and, unfortunately, often overlooked. His decades- long effort to document and share, in print, his experiences and travels are truly remarkable and represent an absolutely critical contribution to the Northwest climbing and exploration canon. DECEMBER 2016 15

Traveling Back in

e m i T

An Evening with Doug Robinson

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager

On Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2016 over 60 people gathered to support the Mazama Library & Historical Collections and to hear a presentation by legendary climber Doug Robinson. The evening kicked off with a short reception where attendees viewed summit register boxes, stereographic photos, ice axes, alpenstocks, climbing ropes, and Mazama memorabilia among other artifacts on display. Larger, rarely seen objects exhibited included the bike ridden atop Mt. Hood in 1946, the tent used by Bill Hackett on his K2 attempt in 1960, and a mannequin dressed in typical clothing in use around 1935. Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager gave short tours of the library and archival collections during the reception. Executive Director Lee Davis got the program started at 6:30 p.m. by introducing Lowell Skoog, noted author, historian, and head of the Seattle Mountaineers History Committee. In his role as master of ceremonies for the evening, Lowell talked about his interest and research into the history of skiing and mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. Mathew highlighted some of the current and future initiatives within the Library & Historical Collections. A slideshow about the Mazama-sponsored C.E. Rusk 1910 expedition to Mt. McKinley followed using original glass lantern slides and the Mazamas' own 100-year-old Balopticon lantern slide projector. Library volunteer Maggie Tomberlin 16 MAZAMAS

assisted with running the slide projector while Mathew read a recounting of the expedition drawn from dispatches published between 1910 and 1911 in the Pacific Monthly magazine. Following a dinner of lasagna, salad, and fresh bread, Lowell kicked off the fundraising part of the evening by sharing some insights into the recent collapse of the Mountaineers' library in Seattle and the danger posed by a decline in support. Long-time members Jeff Thomas, Brad French, and Robert Lockerby then addressed the value, importance, and stories contained within the Mazama Library & Historical Collections. The evening ended with a presentation by climbing legend Doug Robinson. Mr. Robinson published an essay in the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Catalog entitled "The Whole Natural Art of Protection" that welcomed in a new era of clean climbing. Besides his early years climbing in Yosemite Valley, Robinson talked about growing up and learning to climb in California and his exploits in ski mountaineering. In all the Mazama Library & Historical Collections raised just under $4,000 in sustaining and one-time donations. A hearty thank you to everyone who came and supported. We can not preserve the long and amazing history of the Mazamas without your help. If you were unable to attend this year, we plan on making the event an annual tradition. If you value the Mazama Library & Historical Collections and the ongoing efforts to maintain and preserve the long history of the Mazamas, please consider making a donation today.

Clockwise from top: Brad & Mary French dressed up in old-time climbing garb. Doug Couch checks out one of the items from the Mazama archive. An attendee reads the information on one of the table displays. Background: Matthew Brock narrates the lantern slide display, while Maggie Tomberlin operates the Balopticon lantern slide projector. Photos: Jacob Raab.

DECEMBER 2016 17

WE TEACH TRAD ADVANCED ROCK APPLICATIONS ACCEPTED DEC. 1—DEC. 30 Applications are now being accepted for the Mazama Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad class (AR), which takes place March–May 2017. For more information about the course and to apply, visit mazamas.org/education-classes/advancedrock/. The class consists of: ▶▶ A series of 11 lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. ▶▶ 8 weekend field sessions coordinated by skilled, experienced climbers. ▶▶ Opportunities to meet new and experienced rock climbers. ▶▶ A chance to learn about local climbing areas. ▶▶ Involvement in a supportive group that will facilitate learning new skills and challenging yourself through climbing. ▶▶ FUN!! And lots of it.

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If you have questions, contact the leadership team at ar@ mazamas.org or the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 503227-2345.

BOOK REVIEW Of Mountains and Men: An Extraordinary Journey to Explore why Some People Feel the Irresistible Urge to Climb Mountains. By Mateo Cabello Review by Sue Griffith Fresh off the Haute Route, Mateo Cabello stumbled upon the Mountaineers’ Cemetery in the garden of Zermatt's St. Mauritius Church. There, he was drawn to a small, bronze plaque commemorating the 1948 deaths of three friends while climbing the Matterhorn. Inexplicably moved by the memorial, Cabello wonders what it is that compels people to climb mountains—particularly where death is imaginable—and why he has never felt a longing to do so. In Of Mountains and Men: An Extraordinary Journey to Explore why Some People Feel the Irresistible Urge to Climb Mountains, Cabello examines the short lives of the three young climbers in an effort to find his answer. A political economist by trade and self-described hillwalker, Of Mountains and Men is Cabello’s first book. Because he is not a climber and has never trying to define precisely summited a mountain, the author brings an why people climb is a pointless impartial perspective exercise—the reasons are as to the task. He digs deep into the archives diverse as the people who climb. of the Oxford University Mountaineering Club where the climbers had been members while students, connects with surviving family and friends of the three men, and retraces some of their steps while celebrating his own love of mountains. Cabello interviews accomplished climbers and tackles an impressive list of climbing and mountaineering literature, ranging across time from Leslie Stephen’s The Playground of Europe to Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. In the process, he examines his motivations for writing the book and for writing it the way he did. Part memoir in this sense, the author reveals his own feelings about climbing while also searching for a more universal truth. Rejecting the idea of mountaineers as larger-than-life conquerors, Cabello zeroes in on the human side of climbing. His book is a study not of those single-minded climbers bent on claiming records, but rather the story of a trio of talented young men who shared a love of mountains and were drawn together by their zest for life. Climbing was just one of the things they did, albeit an important one. In that sense, mountaineering may simply be the search for one’s own soul. “Climbers and mountaineers,” Cabello writes, “go to mountains in the hope of measuring themselves against the most powerful rivals that nature may offer. And they do it, not despite the risks that it involves, but because the risks are an inherent part of the joy of being measured.” In the end, Cabello never quite finds his answer. He concludes, correctly I believe, that trying to define precisely why people climb is a pointless exercise—the reasons are as diverse as the people who climb. The mountains call to some people while others never hear the call. Cabello is sure about one thing, however. The important story is not about how climbers die but rather how they lived. Climbing is about life. Read the book for its survey of mountaineering literature, to help articulate your own reasons for climbing, or to enjoy the story of three inspiring young men who celebrated living by seeking mountain tops. Cabello, M. (2016). Of Mountains and Men: An Extraordinary Journey to Explore why Some People Feel the Irresistible Urge to Climb Mountains. United Kingdom: Oxford Alpine Club.

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join •

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DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms.

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Access to Mazama Lodge at the base of Mt. Hood, along with great member rates. Access to SPECIAL MEMBER PAGES on the Mazama website with climbing route information and much more. Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. Full access to the worldclass MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY.

DECEMBER 2016 19

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC EXPLORING THE BORDERLANDS— BIG BEND AND GUADALUPE NATIONAL PARKS FEB 4–14, 2017 Join us for a spring trip to southwest Texas—a place Mazamas have rarely gone. Big Bend is a hiker's paradise containing the largest expanse of road less public lands in Texas. More than 150 miles of trails offer opportunities for day hikes or backpacking trips. Elevations range from 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet on Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains. Elevation changes produce an exceptional variety of plants, animals, and scenic vistas. Guadalupe Mountains National Park is the southernmost part of the 40-mile-long Guadalupe range and the highpoint of Texas. From the highway, the mountains resemble a nearly monolithic wall through the desert. But drive into the park and surprises crop up: dramatic canyons, shady glades surrounded by desert scrub, a profusion of wildlife, and numerous birds. Carlsbad Caverns is a short drive north of Guadalupe, and participants would have the option to visit. We will camp in park campgrounds each night—seven nights in Big Bend, two in Guadalupe. Expect mild to warm daytime temperatures, and cold nights. Hiking will be at a moderate pace and distances (there will be several hike leaders and hike options). There will also be plenty of time to look for birds, as the parks are one of the best spots in the West for birding. Outing cost is $316–$258 for 4 to 10 (maximum) participants. A $100 deposit is required and sign-up deadline is Dec. 15, 2016. Participants are responsible for airfare (to El Paso), car rentals, overnight lodging other than camping, and all meals. Contact Outing leader Bob Breivogel (breivog@teleport.com) or assistant leader Bob Smith (rzs.vyg@frontier.com) for more information or to apply.

NORTH TO ALASKA OUTING MARCH 4–11, 2017 This Outing travels to Talkeetna, Alaska and uses a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. The trip this year overlaps with the start of the Iditarod and the plan is to attend the restart of the Iditarod in Willow on Sunday, March 5. The Outing group will meet in Anchorage and use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna. At Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, aurora watching, learning about dog mushing and the Iditarod, photography, meeting locals, and learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaska Range. There will likely be an optional air taxi flight around Denali, with a glacier landing in the Ruth Gorge. Group participants can arrive earlier to Anchorage to attend Iditarod and Fur Rondy activities. Deposit of $650 covers Talkeetna housing, ground transportation during the Outing, half of food costs, and the Outing fee. Participants are responsible for airfare, Anchorage housing, all restaurant meals, equipment rentals, and extra activities. Sign-up deadline is Feb. 1, 2017. Individuals interested in joining the Outing need to contact Tom Bennett at nordlystom@gmail.com. Please let Tom know why you are interested in attending and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.

Want to go on an Outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub. org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants. 20 MAZAMAS

HIKE THE CANYONS OF SOUTHWEST UTAH APRIL 29–MAY 6, 2017 Join us to explore canyons and enjoy the beauty of Southwest Utah. We plan to spend the first afternoon in Bryce Canyon National Park after picking up rental vehicles at the Las Vegas Airport (plan an early flight), then drive to Escalante RV Park where we will be staying for seven nights in shared cabins. Camping is also available as we have sites reserved. From there, we will lead B and C hikes in the canyons—there will be an optional one night backpack to Coyote Gulch. Outing cost is $224–$235 for tent/nonmember $294–$305; $295–$306 for cabin/nonmember $365–$376. Costs include lodging, permits, and fees. Participants are responsible for travel (SUV or crossover vehicle recommended) and all meals. A $75 deposit is required by Feb. 1, 2017. Contact Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail.com or Assistant leader Lesley Langan at leslely@yahoo.com for more information or to apply. We will have a preouting meeting in February 2017.

CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24, 2017 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/ from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees, and the MidiHellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader, Lee Davis, lee@ mazamas.org for more information.

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG 5, 2017 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017. Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders. We will day hike Monday–Friday. There will be two hikes offered each day, a combination of A- and B-level hikes, in the national park. Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park. Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the Outing is $175 for members and $245 for nonmembers. We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register.

OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING AUG 9–16, 2017 Based out of Humbug Mountain State Park, we will hike approximately 70 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Bandon to the California border. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Most of the hiking will be on the beach interspersed with trails through the headlands. This is a diverse area with spectacular scenery. Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; and can come for fewer than 8 days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $105–$240 depending on the number of participants and member status. A $150 deposit is required, with sign-up by July 15, 2017. (Participants should make reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at Humbug Mountain State Park.) Outing leader is Joe Whittington (joewhittington@ gmail.com) 503 297-6344; Assistant Leader: TBD. DECEMBER 2016 21

CLASSIC MAZAMAS

Obituaries Gilbert Staender 1930–2016 by Doug Couch

FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Rose Marie Gilbert at 503762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net. Executive Council liaison Marty Hanson at martyhanson@mazamas. org, 503-227-0974, or classics@ mazamas.org. VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. We need a secretary for meeting minutes, a co-chair to help with planning and communication, and more. You don't have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Meetings: Fourth Monday of the month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. LEADING EVENTS IN JANUARY Contact Rose Marie Gilbert by Dec. 15 for inclusion in the upcoming Bulletin. TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick-up point is Gateway; our west side is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to

22 MAZAMAS

Classics events, you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact transportation coordinator, Flora Huber, at flobell17@ comcast.net or 503-658-5710. DEC. 16: CLASSICS HOLIDAY PARTY AT NOON AT THE MMC We are having our Fourth Annual Holiday Luncheon at the MMC on Friday, Dec. 16 at noon. This is an opportunity to mingle and visit with fellow Classic Mazamas and MMC staff, and to eat a wonderful lunch. A short program will include recognizing and awarding pins to new 25-year and 50-year members. We are asking for a suggested donation of $5 to cover about half the cost of the lunch. Dyanne Foster will need some help with table decorations and setting up. Please RSVP Dyanne by Monday, Dec. 12 to help us determine food needs and seating requirements. Let her know if you can help. RSVP Dyanne Foster at 503-267-8937 or dyfozter@gmail.com.

In 1940 when Gilbert “Gil” Staender was nine years old, his uncle pulled him out of an orphanage in wartime Germany and put him on a ship for New York where he reunited with his father. Five years later, in 1945 his family was living in Portland and Gil joined the Mazamas. He remained a member for 71 years until his death on August 27, 2016. A climb leader with the Mazamas, Gil summited Mt. Hood over fifty times as well as climbing throughout the Northwest. In the 1950s he and his wife Vivian pioneered rock climbing at Smith Rock, traveling there from their home in Lake Oswego. Many of their first ascents at Smith Rock are commemorated in the ridge named for them. In the 1960s they traveled to the Brooks Range in Alaska above the Arctic Circle four times, staying for weeks each trip. Their purpose was more than just getting away from it all. They collected and cataloged plants and animals to be analyzed for the residue of pesticides that had permeated the atmosphere even in that remote region. The Mazamas helped support their research with grants and were rewarded with a series of evening programs featuring Gil’s photography. In 1969 Gil and Vivian embarked on perhaps their greatest adventure. After much research they sold their house in Lake Oswego and returned to the Brooks

Range to spend an entire year in a log cabin they would build there. The twelve by fourteen foot cabin was stout enough and tight enough to get them through a winter with temperatures dropping to 50 below zero. At the end of their year in the north they loaded up a rubber raft they had brought with them for just that purpose and floated downriver for eleven days to the nearest native village where they could catch a plane back to civilization. Encroaching urbanization had been one spur behind their year in the wilderness. Before leaving they had sold their home, stored their belongings with Mazamas Nick and Kay Dodge, and purchased 160 acres north of Sisters. Upon returning they spent three years living on their property in a tent while constructing a stone house far off the electric and phone grid. From the beginning their intent was to deed that house and land, Wildhaven, to the Nature Conservancy. Eventually Gil moved back to Portland and took a job at REI, first at the Jantzen Beach store and then at Tualatin. His career teaching in Portland and Sisters showed through as much as his unique expertise with anything related to climbing or camping. Following that period Gil returned to Central Oregon, living near Camp Sherman until moving to Hospice. Gil was a genuine pioneer and adventurer, a wonderful storyteller, and warm host. He will be deeply missed.

Betty Parker 1927–2016 by Barbara J. Marquam Betty liked to stay active: She climbed her first mountain with the Mazamas in 1948 when she heard a girlfriend asking for a partner and then finished her 16 major Cascade Peaks in about three years, and received the 16 Peaks Award in 1952. She took Basic School in 1950 (the first year the Mazamas had a school) and again around 1979 with David Turville whose mother, a friend, had died. Betty assisted on climbs and became such good friends with climb leader Charlie Jensen and his wife that she drove them to Mazama Annual Banquets after she retired. She worked for the same insurance company all of her life and rose as high as a woman could at that company. Her parents moved from Portland to Tigard in 1937, she started to ride in Cycle Oregon at 60, and rode about 12 years before quitting. She was devoted to the Old-Log Lodge and was on the Lodge Committee from 1955-57. The membership gave their money for building a new lodge when it burned (1958) rather than to a selfowned clubroom fund. She was also on the Executive Council in 1964, the Central Mountain Rescue in 1953–4, Membership Promotion from 1954–55, Outreach 1961– 67, Publicity 1956, and Youth Activities Committee in 1961. She was friends with the Maas’ and would drive down to the Tillamook Burn where Al Maas, a former Mazama climb leader and President, was logging. They would hike together to get in shape for climbing, and one of his buddies proposed marriage to her. She wasn’t ready to settle down, but remained life-long friends with him even though he moved to Canada. Later, she fell for a Mazama, but both remained single. She also liked to attend Mazama Outings: In fact, one of her funniest stories relates to a Teton Outing. A fellow Mazama wanted badly to climb the Grand Teton, but had ripped his pants—a big deal in those days—and figured he had no chance.

She loaned him her pants—she was a tall woman— and thus forfeited her climb. He succeeded, but she never got another chance. When she turned 80, 150 people showed up at her birthday party. She was amazed, but secretly pleased. She was good friends with the Kellers, knew Grace (Tigard) Houghten (her Girl Scout Leader) and her brother, who was still playing golf and going to the theater in his 90s. She had known the Gerdings and old-timers like Clark Rhoades, Ray Witcher, John Scott, Don Onthank, the Franciscos and the Leutholds. She bragged about bringing Chris Mackert, 5-times Mazama President, into the Mazamas. Also, when she was older, she bought annual tickets to several events that occurred at night, after dark. I first met Betty after she retired and drove her customized Ford van to a Mazama Hart Mountain Outing where we took out fence. She was generous with her vehicle, and often drove a group of people to trailheads. She had done all of

the work on the van herself, and lived in it when she drove cross-country. She loved young people and at one time had four college students visiting her at her home. Her nephew, who came out West to go to school, proposed to his current wife under her Christmas tree. As an archives' volunteer, I met her again, and did an oral history interview on her. Also, when she was no longer driving in the dark, my husband (Tom Dinsmore) and I would take her to the Broadway Rose Theater. We will miss her ready laugh and hearty handshake.

Please help us keep up to date on honoring our long-term members by making us aware of obituaries of Mazama members. Send us information via this form: http://mazamas.org/get-involved/contact-info-update/ or email Mathew Brock, mathew@mazamas.org

DECEMBER 2016 23

Portland Alpine Fest Photo of the Year Contest Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) and Friends of Outdoor Schoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Photo of the Year (POTY) joined forces this year to bring you one great photo contest! We had 437 entries, and our judges whittled those entries down to 24 semifinalists and then to 4 finalists. These 24 photos were installed at Base Camp Brewing Company for audience choice voting, along with being posted to Facebook. Thank you to Pro Photo Supply, Friends of Outdoor School, Photo to Canvas, Rock & Ice Magazine, and Chinook Book for your support. Congratulations to all of our winners!

Brit Laurenti The Mountains are A Glow Grand Prize Winner

24 MAZAMAS

Cassandra Anderson Surfing Seals Category Winner Friends of Outdoor School & Audience Choice

Connor O'Brien Kirkjufell Mountain, Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Iceland Category Winner The Scenic Outdoors

Phil Lamb Devil's Kitchen Category Winner Action & Adventure

Top Row: Michael Balen. Jon Layne. Vaqas Malik. Lisa Payson. Drew Lesch-Wragge. Second Row: Dan Sherman. Shakul Tandon. Austin Jackson. Phil Lamb. Chris Breemer. Third Row: Connor O'Brien. Grant Garrett. Drew Lesch-Wragge. Alicia Imbody. Caleb Shierk. Bottom Row: Jamison Liewergen. Joe Whittington. Micah Meyes. Jennifer Travers. Connor O'Brien DECEMBER 2016 25

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MAZAMA LODGE YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN FALL 2016 MAZAMA LODGE WORK DAY REPORT

The fall Mazama Lodge Work Day was held on Saturday, Oct. 29 at Mazama Lodge. We had a big turnout! Twenty-eight volunteers met at the lodge and completed many projects to maintain and prepare the lodge for the winter season. The major task was to bring in firewood. Several logs were bucked and skidded to the lodge where eager hands cut them into rounds and split and stacked the firewood. Four of the six firewood racks were filled. Other tasks completed: the snow shutters were installed, the teepee was taken down and stored, mattresses and windows were washed, several potholes on the entrance road were filled with gravel, the dry food store room was cleaned, the outside chairs were stowed on the balconies, two tons of pellets for the pellet stove were unloaded and stowed in the basement, and the broken clothes dryer was hauled to the dump. Those who arrived Friday enjoyed a lodge breakfast on Saturday morning, and all volunteers enjoyed a wonderful lunch prepared by the lodge winter staff, Brett and Aaron. Volunteers included: Ann Ames, Avinash Ananthakrishnan, Phil Baird, Rex Breunsbach, Hal Brnton, Kathy Burns, Michael Church, Jennifer Cox, George Cummings, Tom Davidson, Mary Ann Dewey, Jay Feldman, Dyanne Foster, Brook Harris, Bill Haug, Noah Ives, Micheal Kipley, Sandor Lau, Wayne Lincoln, Eric Lonsbury, Katy McInally, Tom Quarles, Ed Rea, Monica Siqueira, Bob Stayton, Ann Truax, Jim VanLente, Jodi Wacenski. Special thanks to Jim VanLente for bringing the tractor, to Tom Quarles for bringing two tons of pellets and hauling the dryer away, and to Sandor Lau for bringing the AYM folks—the young energy was very helpful. Work day was successful and a yet another example of the dedication and camaraderie among Mazamas to get things done and have a good time doing it. Firewood remains a priority: we need to get more before snow flies. FURNITURE DONATION

The lodge is seeking a nice dresser to make the caretaker’s quarters a bit more comfortable. If you have a furniture donation please contact Aaron or Brett at caretaker@mazamas.org. ANNUAL LOCKER RENTALS

For those of you who have an annual locker rental please send your payment to Mazama Lodge. Payment is $25 per locker for the year. You can either pay with a check or a credit card next time you come up to the lodge.

NEW RESERVATION SYSTEM! The best way to check lodge availability is by going online. We have a new system that will make it easier to check availability and plan your winter visit to the lodge. We will be using the same reservation system as Lost Lake. As in the past we do not charge your card until you arrive at the lodge. HOLIDAY SCHEDULE. Mazama Lodge is open every day starting Thursday, Dec. 14—closing at noon on Tues., Jan. 2. (We do close at noon on Dec. 24 and re-open on Dec. 25 at noon). Saturday, Dec. 10 our annual Snowball (Scandinavian Holiday Celebration!). Live music and dancing until 1 a.m. Event starts at 5 p.m. HOLIDAY COOKIE DECORATING PARTY AND LUNCH We supply the decorating materials, cookies and a hot lunch. Dec. 19, decorating goes from 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Just $10. NEW YEAR'S EVE PARTY CELEBRATION!!! The celebration starts at 5 p.m. at Mazama Lodge, and includes a talent show, travel monologue, excellent food, rec room competition, family games, and midnight flare parade down Mazama Hill. $20 for adults and $14 for kids 12 and under ( free under 2). JANUARY 1 Enjoy our New Year's Day Brunch at Mazama Lodge. Served from 9 a.m.–Noon. $9 for adults and $6 for kids. NEW YEAR'S EVE DINNER MENU ▶▶ Cheeses from Around the World and Hot Cider ▶▶ Caesar Salad ▶▶ Sautéed Carrots ▶▶ Homemade Bread ▶▶ Prime Rib with our Wasabi Sour Cream ▶▶ Mashed Potatoes ▶▶ Creamy Polenta with Mushrooms ▶▶ Bananas Foster ▶▶ Midnight Snack of Tea Sandwiches and Milk (This is a Family Event!) DECEMBER 2016 27

WEBSITE UPDATES

TRAIL TRIPS

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates!

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK C2.5 Dec 02 (Fri) BanksVernonia Linear Trail (1-way) Sherry Bourdin 503-314-2911. Join me for this pretty Coast Range walk on a paved path through forest and farm fields following a decommissioned rail line. A great winter hike as it is generally flat and probably not going to be hampered with snow or ice. Leave your hiking boots at home and wear your walking or running shoes as the surface is all asphalt. We'll walk as far as we want and then turn around, the objective is 19 miles but we'll be flexible. Hope for a sunny winter day to add to the holiday spirit. 19 mi., 400 ft., Drive 50, Target/185th 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Dec 03 (Sat) Multnomah to Trails Club Lodge Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Multnomah Lodge up the Larch Mountain and Christmas Ornament trails to the Trails Club's Nesika Lodge. Pass many waterfalls and cascades on the way. Be ready for weather. 8 mi., 1,800 ft., Drive 45, Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK C2.5 Dec 03 (Sat) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls) Gary Bishop gbish90@hotmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. A great conditioning hike on a well-graded trail. Several cascades and a great

view of Mt. Hood if the weather cooperates. (Sign up at the Gateway TC only.) 13.8 mi., 4,100 ft., Drive 48, Gateway 8:30 a.m. (AR,GH,WO). SS B Dec 03 (Sat) Twin Lakes Loop Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12. We will snowshoe (or hike if no snow) from Frog Lake Snow Park, join the Pacific Crest Trail and head towards lower Twin Lake and then on to the upper lake. Have lunch and depending on conditions and group desires we will either backtrack or continue on for the 8-mile loop around Bird Butte. Pace will be moderate. Expected hike time is 4–5 hrs. plus driving time. Contact leader via email if you plan to go. 5.6-8 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 110, SnoPark, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH) HK A1.5 Dec 04 (Sun) Kenton/ Columbia Slough Loop Paul Steger PaulSteger612@gmail.com. Leave SE corner of Kenton Park walking to Kenton MAX station where riders can meet us. Walk north to slough and west looking for birds to water treatment plan. Walk south through park and into New Columbia. Return to Kenton Park by walking through Portsmouth and Kenton

Wilderness—Limit 12 indicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING

Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/aym/

STREET RAMBLES

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

neighborhoods. Kenton Park: 8417 N. Brandon Ave. 5 mi., 50 ft., Drive 0, none 9 a.m. Meet SE corner of Kenton Park. HK B2 Dec 04 (Sun) Wolf Creek Trestle Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail. com. Witness the powerlessness of a coast mountain railroad line against the whims of nature. Walk across trestles, through tunnels, and past gnarled tracks suspended in air. Lights are recommended for the two tunnels. 10 mi., 740 ft., Drive 84, Sunset Transit Ctr—NE Corner, Hwy26/217 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Dec 04 (Sun) Auggie Doggie Sue Dimin 971-409-8501. Bring poles and rain gear. May need traction devices. 14 mi., 5,200 ft., Drive 98, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH) HK B2 Dec 07 (Wed) Tolinda— Ridge Loop Hike—Forest Park Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Short EXPLORATORY—Begins with an unusual entrance to Forest Park and takes you on a complete loop on some of the least traveled trails in the park's central section. Includes parts

of the Hardesty, Leif Erickson, and Wildwood trails. 6 mi., 1,685 ft., Drive 25, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Dec 09 (Fri) Silver Falls State Park Loop Eric Hall 503-867-4738 or erichall@q.com. Silver Falls State Park is often described as the "crown jewel" of the Oregon State Parks system, and boasts one of the best waterfall hikes around. We'll hike over, around, and behind no less than ten falls on this eight mile loop. 7.8 mi., 700 ft., Drive 100, MMC 8 a.m. (WF) HK A2 Dec 10 (Sat) Dry Creek Falls Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Great winter hike but bring rain gear and traction devices. Can bring an umbrella on this one. Regardless of weather, the falls should be impressive. Bring lunch or eat at Cascade Locks as we should be back there by 12:30 p.m. 5.4 mi., 700 ft., Drive 78, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH) MU HK B1.5 Dec 10 (Sat) Salmon River Trail Deborah Gant 503-766-9825 or deborah2@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limited 12. Nice little jaunt along the beautiful Salmon River through classic old growth rain forest. Beyond the

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

BLACK DIAMOND/BIBLER BOMBSHELTER 4 person winter expedition tent, never used. $725. 28 MAZAMAS

riverside segment, the trail climbs to a sweeping viewpoint of the vast Salmon River canyon. May be frosty/ icy in spots this time of year so poles and boots with good treads are recommended. Also, gear to keep you warm and dry. Please feel free to email with questions. 8 mi., 950 ft., Drive 80, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH,WO) HK C2 Dec 10 (Sat) Table Mountain (West Ridge) David Zeps 503-638 5430. Trailhead fee $5 per car at Bonneville Hot Springs. Could be wintery at the top, wet on the way up. 9 mi., 3,450 ft., Drive 84, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,GH) SS A Dec 10 (Sat) Trillium Lake Moon Light Snowshoe David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Plan is to snowshoe around Trillium Lake (or hike if no snow) under the moonlight. (Dec. 13 is full moon). If weather and clouds cooperate it will be a great evening. The pace will be easy to moderate. Being late at night, bring extra warm clothes (no cotton) and headlamp. Estimated snowshoe time 2.5–3 hours. Meet at Clackamas Town Center Transit Center Park & Ride.- 9225 SE Sunnyside Rd—North end of transit parking center, up ramp to lower level. You need to contact leader if you plan to go. 5.2 mi., 800 ft., Drive 100, SnoPark, Clackamas P&R Garage 6 p.m. (MH) HK C2 Dec 11 (Sun) Elk-Kings Traverse Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. This will be a car shuttle, NOT the entire loop. This time of year we may encounter hazardous conditions. Leader will monitor for viable weather and road conditions. A very rigorous hike. Come prepared with appropriate clothing, traction devices, and warm drinks. 11 mi., 4,600 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 7:30 a.m. (AR) HK A2 Dec 14 (Wed) Oxbow Loop Hike Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Explore this close in gem of a hike. Features the lush forest along two great looping meanders of the Sandy River. Back in time for some Christmas shopping. 8.2 mi., 900 ft., Drive 50, MMC 8 a.m. MU

SS A Dec 14 (Wed) White River Moonlight Snowshoe Joe Whittington joewhittington@ gmail.com. White River Moonlight Snowshoe—Snowshoeing in the moonlight is a very special and fun experience. We will do a leisurely trip up White River Canyon and return. Because we will be on the mountain in the snow and in the dark, it is essential that you are prepared. To be allowed to go on the trip you need to send your e-mail address directly to the hike leader in order to receive the trip information. 4 mi., 200 ft., Drive 120, SnoPark, Contact leader to sign up. 5 p.m. (MH)MU HK A2 Dec 17 (Sat) Providence Park to Willamette Stone SP Loop Hike William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. This is an urban hike of transition. A hike that transitions from the busy commercial/residential Northwest Portland neighborhoods to the Wildwood trail then to the Audubon Center then up the quiet Portland West Hills to Skyline Blvd. and lastly to a small, remote Oregon State Park dedicated to early surveying history in Oregon. 7 mi., 900 ft., Drive 0, Providence Park Westbound Max stop 9 a.m. MU HK C2 Dec 17 (Sat) Larch Mountain from Multnomah Falls Kate Evans 503-635-6540. Wilderness—Limited 12. Woods and waterfalls on the lower trail and possible multi-mountain views from Sherrard Point on Larch Mt. This is a long hike but has a very gradual elevation gain. Bring poles, traction devices, and a head lamp. Wilderness limit—12. 13.8 mi., 4,100 ft., Drive 48, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF,AR,GH,WO) HK C2 Dec 18 (Sun) Ruckel Creek Sue Dimin 971 409 8501. Wilderness— Limited 12. Bring rain gear and poles. May need traction devices, depending on the weather 9.6 mi., 3700 ft., Drive 74, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (GH,WO) HK B2 Dec 21 (Wed) Waespe Point—Christmas Trail Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Short and quick hike in the area above Multnomah Falls. We will hike up

Multnomah Creek to the Multnomah basin and visit the Christmas trail, and its colorful decorations. I'll bring along some hot cider to keep us in the spirit of the season. 8 mi., 1,800 ft., Drive 50, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,GH) SS A Dec 21 (Wed) Twin Lakes Winter Solstice Snowshoe Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail. com. This will be a leisurely trip to two lovely lakes on the east of Mt. Hood to celebrate the Winter Solstice. If there is no snow, it will evolve into a trail hike. Because we will be on the mountain in the snow, it is essential that you are prepared. To be allowed to go on the trip, you need to send your e-mail address directly to the hike leader in order to receive the trip information. 6 mi., 500 ft., Drive 140, SnoPark, Contact Leader to sign up. 7 a.m. (MH)MU HK C2 Dec 28 (Wed) Hunchback Mountain—Great Pyramid) Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Conditioner—Time to burn off those holiday calories. Steep and rough in places, this hike climbs along the ridge above Zig Zag Ranger Station. Traction devices and poles recommended. 9 mi., 3,060 ft., Drive 76, MMC 8 a.m. (AR,MH,WO) HK A2 Dec 31 (Sat) Forest Park— Rollercoaster Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. New Year's Eve—Quickie. We'll start at the Newton Road trailhead, hiking downhill to the end of Newton Road, then up the steep BPA. Then on to firelane 12 and "Hole in the Park." From here it's downhill to firelane 15, uphill to the Wildwood Trail, on to firelane 10 and back to our starting point. 7.6 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 25, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Dec 31 (Sat) Moulton Falls Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Leader leads this hike every year on the Saturday after Christmas. Great hike rain or shine as you can bring an umbrella and both Lucia Falls and Moulton Falls should be impressive, including steelhead trying to make it up Lucia Falls. Great winter views of other wildlife as well. 6 mi., 200 ft., Drive 60, Gateway 8:30 a.m. (WF)MU

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards. AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards. GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award. WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award. MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

503.684.9698

DECEMBER 2016 29

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL by Mathew Brock The regular Mazama Board meeting took place on Nov. 8. President Hooker called the meeting to order. There were no members present for the member comment period. A motion was made, and seconded, to accept the minutes from the October meeting. In the Membership Report, Secretary John Rettig noted that the membership now stands at 3,683. The organization continues to experience steady growth, and is currently growing 30 percent faster than the local population, which is good. Executive Director Lee Davis gave the Treasurer's Report for Jon Jurevic. He introduced the first draft of the Sept. 30, 2016 fiscal yearend financial statements. As reported at the Annual Meeting, the Mazamas ended the year approximately $475,000 better than budget due to increased funding from the Mazamas Foundation for the IT project ($140,000), a grant from the Foundation of temporarily restricted donor funds ($170,000), and strong support of the Mazamas from individual donors, corporate sponsors, and community foundations. Final audited financials are expected at the December meeting. Lee Davis began his Executive Director’s Report by giving a recap of the recent Library and Historical Collections fundraiser on the 25th of October. The event drew 65 people and generated just under $4,000 in donations. While the event fell short of its planned fundraising goal, it tripled the number of annual donors to the Library & Historical Collections program. Lee noted that the Portland Alpine Fest starts in just one week. Pre-festival ticket sales are down from last year, due we think to marketing and social media noise from the national election, making it more difficult to publicize the event. Lee then touched on some operations and department reporting noting that the Gray Family Foundation is currently reviewing two proposed options for improvements to Mazama Lodge. He and Marty Hanson are also meeting with a local architect to review potential changes to the MMC to accommodate further growth. Lee also reported that the Mazamas Foundation is looking into installing solar panels on the roof of the MMC and preliminary inspections are taking place. In external reporting, Lee gave an update on the status of advocacy work noting that efforts to develop an Oregon State Office of Outdoor Recreation were currently on hold awaiting the results of the election. The standing invitation for Mazamas to join Outdoor Alliance was then discussed following a brief history of the effort. 30 MAZAMAS

President Hooker asked the Board to consider moving forward with approval in December and noting that previous boards have been considering the issue for close to three years now. The board approved a motion to request final comments from theTrail Trips, Climbing, Conservation, and Nordic committees. Steve Couche made the point that now more than ever the Mazamas should be forming alliances to help protect public lands and the progress we’ve made. President Hooker then asked the board to approve the Volunteer Agreement and Code of Conduct. The motion was carried and the policy document was approved as written. John Rettig then discussed the recent Governing Documents Committees report on proposed organization wide policy updates. In a procedural move the board agreed to re-establish the Governing Documents Committee by appointing four new members, thus allowing the committee to establish a quorum. John Rettig then introduced Mike Ard, who was approved as chairperson for the committee and who requested clarification from the board on the committee’s role in policy revisions. Mr. Hooker then went through a brief recap of the action items from the board retreat and asked for status updates. The board agreed to shift its monthly meeting from the second Tuesday to the third Tuesday of the month starting in February. The board further agreed to shift the start time for future meeting from 6:30 p.m. to 3 p.m. starting with the upcoming December meeting. It was pointed out that traffic in the metro area is making it increasingly difficult for board members and volunteers to arrive on-time for a 6:30 p.m. meeting, with one director saying they spent two full hours driving from SW Portland to the MMC that night. Vice President Chris Kruell recapped a breakout session from the board retreat about refining and word smithing the Mazamas Vision and Mission Statements. Lee gave an overview of the external stakeholders that the Mazamas interact with regularly and who will be interviewed in the month ahead to help with our upcoming planning process. The public portion of the meeting ended with President Hooker adjourning the meeting into Executive Session to discuss the status of the Youth and Outreach Manager position and to hear nominations for the Parker and Montague Cup Awards. The next Mazama Board meeting is scheduled for Dec. 13, at 3 p.m.

Meeting Time & Date Change by Steve Hooker, Mazama President The Executive Council meeting time and date is changing. With the increase in traffic over the last few years, traveling to the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a 6:30 p.m. meeting has become a challenge, especially for council members that live on the west side of the river. Additionally, to adequately prepare for the council meeting each month a large packet of information is produced for council members. The packet needs to be prepared seven days prior to the meeting, and with end of month responsibilities this is a difficult deadline to adhere to. To alleviate these complications, the council has voted to move their meeting time to 3 p.m. and the meeting date to the third Tuesday of the month. This will happen in two stages. The December and January meetings will be at 3 p.m. on the second Tuesday of the month, and in February 2017 we will move to the new schedule of 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of the month. The meetings are scheduled to end by 6 p.m. Meetings will continue to be open and members are welcome to attend. Each meeting will still begin with an open comment period.

Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes. Go to: mazamas.org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports. Please note: Full minutes are available on a one-month delay due to the approval process.

DECEMBER 2016 31

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