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6th Annual
Portland Alpine Fest
presented by Grivel & hosted by the Mazamas
Mountains. Community. Inspiration. Challenge.
Inside this festival guide you’ll find: ▶▶ Complete festival schedule ▶▶ The Summit ▶▶ Portland Ice Comp ▶▶ Athlete information & schedules ▶▶ Sponsor information
The Portland Alpine Fest is a time for our community to join together to celebrate achievements, to be inspired by others, to learn new skills, and to push our own limits. PAF18 includes clinics, seminars, movies, speakers, the Portland Ice Comp, and The Summit. Join us for 6 days of inspiration, learning, demos, and more as you immerse yourself in the world of all things alpine. There’s ice climbing, rock climbing, mountain running, and much more. You’ll get the opportunity to hear from and learn from some of our local Pacific Northwest athletes, as well as athletes making waves on the national and international scene. Get TICKETS & REGISTER for clinics:
portlandalpinefest.org
Festival Schedule Adventure Film Fest: Mon., Nov. 12 from 6:30–9 p.m. at the Lucky Lab NW Steep Snow Climbing: Tue., Nov. 13 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Paul Taylor (Clinic) Expect the Unexpected: Tue., Nov. 13 from 6:30–9 p.m. at Base Camp with Yassine Diboun An Evening with NWAC: Tue., Nov. 13 from 7–9:30 p.m. at Mountain Shop with NWAC Getting Loopy on Mt. Rainier: Wed., Nov. 14 from 6:30–9 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Scott Bennett (Evening) Fast & Light Alpinism: Wed., Nov. 14 from 8 a.m.–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Scott Bennett, Libby Sauter, Quinn Brett (Clinic) Fast & Light Alpinism: Thu., Nov. 15 from 8 a.m.–4 p.m. at Beacon Rock with Scott Bennett, Libby Sauter, Quinn Brett (Clinic) Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing (Women): Thu., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Dawn Glanc (Clinic) Crack Climbing: Thu., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite with John Barkhausen (Clinic)
Good Enough Anchors: Thu., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source with Marcus Garcia (Clinic) Intermediate / Advanced Ice & Mixed Climbing: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Dawn Glanc (Clinic) Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite with John Barkhausen (Clinic) Movement Efficiency: Rock: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at The Source with Marcus Garcia (Clinic) Navigation: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Alan Rousseau (Seminar) Trip Planning: Rock Climbing: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Quinn Brett (Seminar) Rigging for Photos: Thu., Nov. 15 from 6–9 p.m. at MMC with Marcus Garcia (Clinic) Michigan Ice Fest: Thu., Nov. 15 from 7–9:30 p.m. at Patagonia Portland Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at MMC with Dawn Glanc (Clinic) Better Crack Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite with Marcus Garcia (Clinic)
Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source with Alan Rousseau (Clinic) Ice Anchors: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Ari Novak (Seminar) Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Ari Novak (Clinic) Steep Snow Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite with Paul Taylor (Clinic) The Summit: Fri., Nov. 16 from 6:30–11 p.m. at Melody Center with Quinn Brett, Libby Sauter, Alan Rousseau Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Scott Bennett (Clinic) Women’s Techniques: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite with Dawn Glanc (Clinic) Lead Climbing: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source with John Barkhausen (Clinic) Chamonix Planning: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Alan Rousseau (Seminar) Portland Ice Comp: Sat., Nov. 17 from 3–9 p.m. at
Planet Granite High Angle Rescue: Sun, Nov. 18 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Alan Rousseau (Clinic)
Intro to Big Wall Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from NOON–6 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Scott Bennett (Clinic)
Kids Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite with Dawn & Marcus (Clinic)
Crack Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from 1–4 p.m. at The Source with John Barkhausen (Clinic)
Lead Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source with John Barkhausen (Clinic)
Climbing Towards Inclusivity: A First Step Into Exploring Allyship: Sun, Nov. 18 from 1–2:30 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Elyse Rylander, Elyse Cogburn, Emily Mannisto (Seminar) Roundtable Discussion: How to Climb 3 Grades Harder with Diversity and Inclusion: Sun, Nov. 18 from 3–4:30 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Elyse Rylander, Elyse Cogburn, Emily
TRIGLAV, JULIAN ALPS; PHOTO: MARTIN ZUMER
Full festival info and tickets at portlandalpinefest.org LEARN HOW YOU CAN HELP THE AMERICAN SAFE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION
Nov 1 - Nov 30, Planet Granite will match all donations up to $20,000 to the ASCA. The ASCA is a bare bones non-profit of dedicated climbers who replace unsafe anchors and reduce the visual impacts of climbing.
ALPINIST PRO Like the Blade Runner for technical ice climbing, the new Alpinist Pro has been designed as the ultimate tool for alpine climbers. Using much of the same technology and design, the Alpinist Pro ensures a precise fit with modern boots and extra rigidity in the connection between the heel and toe for top level performance on technical terrain. camp-usa.com/cassin
Visit planetgranite.com/ asca-match for more information.
Photo: Alan Rousseau
Quinn
Libby
Alan
the
SUMMIT
An Evening of Inspiration
with Quinn Brett, Libby Sauter, and Alan Rousseau The Summit is the night where our mountain community comes together to celebrate everything we love about the outdoors. Don your finest non-climbing gear, and head on out to the newly remodeled Melody Center, for an evening with your friends for fun, food, and tales of inspiration and adventure. Our night will feature stories of courage in the face of adversity, first ascents, pushing boundaries, and more as we hear from our two keynote speakers of the evening. Hear from Quinn Brett & Libby Sauter on what it means to be inspired, and Alan Rousseau on what the life of a mountain guide is really like.
EVENING TIMELINE 6:30 p.m.: Food, vendors, nonprofit partners, raffle opportunities, and more. 8 p.m.: Program begins 9 p.m.: Intermission 9:20 p.m.: Program continues 10:30(ish) p.m.: Program concludes—head over to Base Camp Brewing Company to continue the party!
tickets portlandalpinefest.org
Photos: Nicole Wasko Photography
Portland 13th Annual
P
Ice Comp
ut your dry-tooling skills to the test and go axe-toaxe with some of the best climbers in the area. You never know who might come out on top! There will be great competition, a fun and social vibe along with great prizes, gear reps on site, a raffle, and drinks ‌ does it get any better than that? 4–9 p.m. at Planet Granite Portland.
portlandalpinefest.org
Evening events ADVENTURE & INSPIRATION: REI MOVIE NIGHT AT THE LUCKY LAB Monday, Nov. 12, 6:30–9 p.m. at the Lucky Lab NW Join us as we share stories of adventure and inspiration that are changing the narrative of what it means to push limits, challenge assumptions, and break barriers.
AN EVENING WITH NWAC Tuesday, Nov. 13, 7–9:30 p.m. at the Mountain Shop An evening with the forecasters, snow observers, and educators of the Northwest Avalanche Center. The first half of the evening will be a lecture focusing on how to make the most of the NWAC avalanche forecast. The second half will be a casual question-and-answer session.
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EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED Tuesday, Nov. 13, 7–9:30 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company Join ultra runner Yassine Diboun of Wy’east Wolfpack, as he talks about his last year in running, where he tackled three of the hardest 100-milers in less than 12 months: UTMB, HURT 100, and Badwater 135.
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Evening events TO INFINITY & BEYOND: GETTING LOOPY ON MT. RAINIER Wednesday, Nov. 14, 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC Scott Bennett will offer up an evening of photos and stories from some of his adventures on remote classics like Mt. Goode or Mt. Olympus, leading up to the Infinity Loop on Mt. Rainier.
FILM NIGHT: MICHIGAN ICE Thursday, Nov. 15, 7–9:30 p.m. at Patagonia The Michigan Ice Film pulls back the curtain on one of the world’s most overlooked climbing destinations: the frozen cliffs of Lake Superior on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
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THE SUMMIT: AN EVENING OF INSPIRATION FRIDAY, Nov. 16, 6:30–11 p.m. at the Melody Center Don your finest non-climbing gear, and head on out to the newly remodeled Melody Center, for an evening with your friends for fun, food, and tales of inspiration and adventure.
PORTLAND ICE COMP Saturday, Nov. 17, 4–8:30 p.m. at Planet Granite Portland Climbing for a cause! This event is a fundraiser for Friends of Hyalite. With your help, we can help plow the road at Hyalite Canyon to keep the climbing available for all! Come out to watch the competitors tackle the routes and cheer them on! The event will include a raffle, prizes, food carts, and more!
Scott Bennett Your mom might shudder if you told her that, having just finished college, you were gonna move into your car and become a full-time climbing “dirtbag.” Scott’s mom certainly did. But dirtbag Scott did, all around the Western Hemisphere for the better part of his 20s, climbing anything that didn’t crumble in his hands (and plenty of stuff that did). And much to his mother’s surprise, he’s managed to make climbing his career, as a professional alpinist and expedition climber. Beginning in Yosemite, Scott’s first passion was pure rock. El Capitan became a crag, the perfect venue for moving quickly and overcoming fear of exposure. From there, he began to hear tales of a wild southern land, with just as much granite, albeit with something called “Snow mushrooms.” It was in Argentine Patagonia that Scott really became an alpinist, first setting foot on a glacier and first going ground-up on virgin rock. Over the course of three seasons, he refined the raw strength and stoke of rock climbing into the cautious determination of a mountain climber. With first ascents, from Alaska to the Waddington range, the Cascades to Patagonia, Scott has established himself as one of the most active alpinists of his SCOTT’S SCHEDULE generation. Combining the raw strength Getting Loopy on Mt. Rainier: and stoke with thoughtful planning, Scott Wed., Nov. 14 from 6:30–9 p.m. at excels at moving quickly and safely on Mazama Mountaineering Center massive objectives. Fast & Light Alpinism: Wed. & Thu., Nov. 14 & 15 from 8 a.m.–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center and Beacon Rock also with Libby Sauter & Quinn Brett (Clinic)
Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic) Intro to Big Wall Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from NOON–6 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic)
Quinn Brett Quinn Brett is an adventurer and record setting athlete. Tying herself to Estes Park, Colorado for the last fifteen years, she strives to push mind and body to the limits. She holds numerous speed climbing records in Yosemite, Zion and Rocky Mountain National park, is a competitive triathlete, and an eclectic tight wearing handstand master. Professionally Quinn worked during the summer months as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park— essentially medical and technical first responder. She was the only female in this highly coveted position. To compliment the rescue and medical component of this job, Quinn taught Wilderness Medical Courses with Remote Medical International during the winter months. Last fall, she sustained a spinal cord injury from a fall while climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite. Although her life is undergoing some drastic changes, unable to walk, climb, run and handstand, Quinn is pushing forward with hope. Wilderness experiences, before her accident, provided Quinn with perspective, growth and appreciation of life and others. She hopes to find new ways to enjoy physical endeavors and the therapeutic ways public lands provides. QUINN’S SCHEDULE Fast & Light Alpinism: Wed. & Thu., Nov. 14 & 15 from 8 a.m.–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center and Beacon Rock also with Scott Bennett, and Libby Sauter (Clinic) Trip Planning: Rock Climbing: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center with Quinn Brett (Seminar) The Summit: Fri., Nov. 16 from 6:30–11 p.m. at Melody Center also with Libby Sauter and Alan Rousseau
Marcus Garcia “Marcus Garcia might be the best climber you’ve never heard of.” — Rock and Ice Magazine, issue 238. Marcus has over 25 years of all-around climbing, and has established over 200 new routes, including everything from traditional, sport, Clean aid first ascents and mixed climbing to big walls and desert towers. However, his biggest accomplishment and legacy is not how hard he can push himself, but what he passes on to the next generation of climbers as a coach and mentor. As lead coach for youth Team USA Ice Climbing, Marcus is helping develop the next generation of Olympic Caliber athletes.
MARCUS’ SCHEDULE Good Enough Anchors: Thu., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source (Clinic) Movement Efficiency: Rock: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at The Source (Clinic) Rigging for Photos: Thu., Nov. 15 from 6–9 p.m. at MMC (Clinic) Better Crack Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite (Clinic) Kids Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite also with Dawn Glanc (Clinic)
Dawn Glanc Dawn Glanc, pronounced “glance”, came to Ouray, sight unseen, in December of 2005. Today Dawn is a full time resident and guide in Ouray. Dawn is certified by the American Mountain Guides Association as a Rock Guide and Alpine Guide. Her specialty is ice and mixed climbing and she has competed in competitions around the world, including a 1st place finish at the Ouray Ice Festival in 2009 and 2011, and a first place finish at the Teva Winter Games in 2012. Dawn also enjoys working with youth groups and she has helped many young climbers learn the joy of climbing. Dawn is a sponsored Athlete with Outdoor Research, Black Diamond, Blue Water, La Sportiva and Julbo. She is also a Ouray City Council member.
DAWN’S SCHEDULE Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing (Women): Thu., Nov. 15 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic) Intermediate / Advanced Ice & Mixed Climbing: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic) Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at MMC (Clinic) Women’s Techniques: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite (Clinic) Kids Climbing: Sun, Nov. 18 from 8–11 a.m. at Planet Granite also with Marcus Garcia (Clinic)
NOMIC & ERGONOMIC Steep and steeper.
Ari Novak Ari Novak is an ice climber and mountaineer for La Sportiva and Trango, based out of Bozeman Montana. Novak’s love of ice and rock climbing has led him to establish first ascents around the country and explore and climb around the world. In Montana, Novak established “White Tara” 5.10a along with Conrad Anker who describes the route as “one of the best rock routes in the State” In Alaska, Novak has explored some of the most remote reaches of the Matanuska glacier as featured in National Geographic. Novak’s number one passion is sharing climbing through teaching ice climbing techniques to enable others to enjoy the mountains as safely as possible. Novak is a regular instructor at the Ouray and Michigan Ice Festival. In addition to ice and rock climbing, Ari enjoys ski mountaineering and all things winter.
ARI’S SCHEDULE Ice Anchors: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Seminar) Intro to Ice & Mixed Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic)
Alan Rousseau As a mountain guide, Alan Rousseau has landed a profession that he is passionate about, a profession that has taken him to amazing locations in Utah, Alaska, Washington, Peru, and the European alps. After spending his childhood in New England, Alan moved to Utah in 2004 where he lives with his wife and learned to climb. Initially, Alan picked up climbing as a secondary activity in an effort to take his skiing and snowboarding further up into the mountains. But the more he did it, the more he found passion in climbing impressive lines and summiting aweinspiring peaks. Aside from his guiding trips, Alan has also traveled to places such as Nepal, India, Greece, and Canada where he has explored new places and established new routes.
ALAN’S SCHEDULE Navigation: Thu., Nov. 15 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Seminar) Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Fri., Nov. 16 from 8–11 a.m. at The Source (Clinic) The Summit: Fri., Nov. 16 from 6:30–11 p.m. at Melody Center also with Quinn Brett & Libby Sauter
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Chamonix Planning: Sat., Nov. 17 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Seminar) High Angle Rescue: Sun, Nov. 18 from 8–11 a.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic)
Libby Sauter Libby holds the female speed record on the Nose of El Capitan as well as being an aspiring big mountain runner. When not climbing or running she works as a pediatric cardiac ICU nurse in California and around the world. She currently lives in the Sierra Nevada.
LIBBY’S SCHEDULE Fast & Light Alpinism: Wed. & Thu., Nov. 14 & 15 from 8 a.m.–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center and Beacon Rock also with Scott Bennett & Quinn Brett (Clinic) The Summit: Fri., Nov. 16 from 6:30–11 p.m. at Melody Center also with Quinn Brett & Alan Rousseau
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Paul Taylor Paul Taylor made his way to the mountains and outdoors at an early age. His deep love of wild places and a passion for teaching have been a driving force in both his professional and personal pursuits. Currently, he is a Portlandbased climbing and mountaineering guide for Kaf Adventures who also serves as Kaf ’s Oregon Program Director, where he has been instructing and guiding for the past 5 years. Over the course of his 16-year career, he has worked as an instructor, facilitator, and guide for numerous outdoor education companies and guide services across the United States. His early adventures were focused on teaching primitive living and survival skills and long distance hiking, where he has racked up over 10,000 miles of trail-time, including thru-hikes of the AT, PCT, and many other trails. His favorite place in the entire world is the region of Patagonia in Argentina and Chile, where he is always looking to spend more time exploring and climbing and one day living with his family. The area he is most excited to return to is climbing in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, where he and his wife spent their honeymoon. Paul is an AMGA SPI and Alpine Apprentice and is continuing to pursue further AMGA certifications. Additionally, he is an EMT-B, WFR, LNT Master Educator, and has an AIARE 2 avalanche certification. When he’s not teaching or working, he enjoys trail running, climbing up Mt. Hood and at Smith Rock, cooking, reading, glass blowing, and traveling with his wife, Claire and daughter, Zola.
Steep Snow Climbing: Tue., Nov. 13 from 1–4 p.m. at Mazama Mountaineering Center (Clinic) Steep Snow Climbing: Fri., Nov. 16 from 1–4 p.m. at Planet Granite (Clinic)
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PHOTO of the YEAR
Vote at Base Camp Brewing or at www.facebook.com/portlandalpinefestival until Nov. 16!
O
ur judges applied their eagle eyes to the contenders and selected 24 semifinalists that will be displayed at Base Camp Brewing Company starting on Nov. 12. Stop on by and vote for your favorite in person or head on over to our Facebook page to cast your “likes” virtually. We’ll announce the judges’ top three picks, plus the Audience Choice Award at The Summit on Nov. 16. 2017 Winner, Action & Adventure Photo: Vaqas Malik, Climbing in the Bugaboos
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