Mazama Magazine September 2017

September 2017 Vol. 99

| No. 9

Bulletin

Cascade Siskiyou National Monument What’s Next for our National Monuments?

The Elliott State Forest Summer Stewardship Portland Alpine Festival

4.8oz. φ 3.9 x 5.5 in

9

13

14

19

FEATURES Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, p. 9 What's Next for our National Monuments?, p. 13 AdventureWild! Comes to an End, p. 14 Elliott State Forest, p. 19 Climbing in Chamonix, p. 20 Opening the Vault at the Mazama Library & Historical Collections, p. 27 Recreation Not Red Tape Act, p. 28 President Trump's Quest for Energy, p. 29 Portland Alpine Fest 2017, p. 30 MONTHLY COLUMNS

20

27

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 6 Events & Activities, p. 6 Volunteer with Mazamas, p.16 AYM, p. 24 Mazama Lodge, p. 25 Evening Programs, p. 25 Outings, p. 26 Classics, p. 26 Successful Climbers, p. 33 Obituaries, p. 34 Trail Trips, p. 36 Membership Report, p. 37 Executive Council Summary, p. 38

ADVERTISER INDEX

MAZAMA STAFF

LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK •Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON •Youth & Outreach Manager• claire@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM •Education & Activities Program Manager• justin@mazamas.org

Green Trails, p. 39 Embark Exploration Co., p. 32 Montbell, p. 2 Next Adventure, p. 18 The Mountain Shop, p. 23 OMC, p. 24 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising

CONTACT US

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org |Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazamabulletin@mazamas.org) Committee: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Jonathan Barrett, Karoline Gottschild, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Kristie Perry, and Michael Vincerra.

On Cover: A climber high on Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades (Wash.). Photo: Grant Garrett.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month.

If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 3 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894.

The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

SEPTEMBER 2017 3

Advocacy, Stewardship & Policy at the Mazamas

O

Dear Members,

ver the last three years, thanks to support from our donors and partners, we have been able to build a strong advocacy presence in Oregon and the Pacific Northwest. Our Advocacy program works to represent the collective voice and interests of the Mazamas and our broader community in outdoor recreation and conservation policy.

This work focuses on protecting access to and conservation of the mountains of the Pacific Northwest, and our favorite climbing and hiking areas. In this issue, I’d like to share with you why our advocacy work is important to the Mazamas, to hikers and climbers, and to our broader community, and how you can help.

WHY ADVOCACY IS IMPORTANT TO CLIMBERS AND HIKERS As our population continues to grow, and more and more people move to the northwest, there is more pressure than ever on our favorite climbing and hiking areas.

Additionally, with the enormous boom in climbing, and in particular climbing gyms, our outdoor crags and mountains are seeing more new climbers and impacts than ever before. Because of this, our state and federal land managers are reaching out to the Mazamas and our partners for help in finding appropriate ways to manage this increased use and preserve the integrity of these beautiful places.

As climbers and hikers we need to engage and communicate regularly, often daily, with land management agencies in Oregon, Washington, and Washington D.C. and their field staff. The only way

4 MAZAMAS

to influence how our public lands are managed, and the only way to influence the public policy that drives funding for our land management agencies is to have a seat at the table.

WHY ADVOCACY IS IMPORTANT TO THE MAZAMAS At the Mazamas, the life changing experiences we all have had outside are what bonds us to the mountains, and makes us want to protect them. We believe that future generations must also have access to the incredible mountain landscapes, and vistas that we have all enjoyed throughout the Pacific Northwest.

And we believe that these places should be well preserved, with clean air and water, robust animal habitats, and well-designed and maintained infrastructure for outdoor recreation.

Yet today our public lands are under extraordinary threats. To protect our public lands, and to ensure long term funding for conservation and recreation, we need our policy makers at the state and federal level to see the importance of responsible outdoor recreation and conservation. And if we want to be heard in Salem, Olympia and Washington D.C., we have to show up, consistently, passionately, and with the voice of our members and the community at our back.

SUCCESSES IN 2017 So far, 2017 has been a very strong year for the Mazamas and for Oregon. Because of several successes this year, we believe the Mazamas can be leaders in Oregon and throughout our region in representing the voice of climbers, hikers, and other forms of human-powered outdoor recreation.

And Oregon itself is poised to be an inspiring national leader in promoting the interests and benefits of responsible outdoor recreation.

This year, two Mazamas-led bills passed through Salem with solid bipartisan support, one of which created a leadership position in state government to represent the benefits and interests of responsible outdoor recreation, and the second designates the first Saturday in June of each year as Oregon Outdoor Recreation Day. Earlier this year, several national organizations and agencies were inspired by our voters actions in November to ensure outdoor school experiences for all 5th and 6th graders. This spring, Oregon leaders on the Measure 99 campaign, which the Mazamas strongly supported, were invited to Washington D.C. to talk about how other states could take similar actions.

And at the recent Outdoor Retail tradeshow in Salt Lake City, Oregon was held up as a progressive leader in promoting responsible outdoor recreation.

Because of our work over the last year, the Mazamas were mentioned and thanked at the show for being leaders in the recreation movement, and ensuring that responsible outdoor recreation is a must-have value in America, not a wish list item.

THREE STRATEGIES FOR THE ROAD AHEAD Going forward, we are positioned to take a strong leadership role in helping to shape state and national policy for outdoor recreation and conservation. With continued community support we will be able to take a driving role in making Oregon a national leader in advocating for the importance, benefits, and interests of outdoor recreation and our public lands.

To do this we’ll be doing three things in the years ahead.

1—POLICY WORK First, we’ll regularly communicate with and show up in Salem, Olympia, and Washington D.C., ensuring that our voice is heard and our interests are represented. We’ll stay on constant alert for administrative actions or policy changes that would impact outdoor recreation, outdoor education, or conservation of our public lands.

2—STATE LEADERSHIP Second, we will be working to help Oregon be a nationally inspiring leader in promoting responsible recreation, and investing in our public lands and wild places. To do so we will support Oregon’s new leadership position for outdoor recreation and make sure they are connected to Mazamas core activity communities around climbing, mountaineering, hiking, Nordic and backcountry skiing, and all forms of responsible human powered recreation.

Also as a part of this effort, we are working to lead the creation of a coalition that will bring together more than fifty recreation, conservation, and outdoor industry organizations in Oregon to protect public lands, ensure all Oregonian’s have access to outdoor experiences, and to work towards sustainable funding for conservation and recreation in Oregon.

3—SUPPORTING STEWARDSHIP And finally, we’ll be working to invest more each year in supporting our partners to create sustainable stewardship programs in our state and region. The outdoor recreation infrastructure in the Pacific Northwest is sorely in need of investment to address critical maintenance backlogs, to maintain the quality of our trails, and to work to design and develop a new system of trails that meets modern needs and can accommodate many more people, while preserving the integrity of our sensitive wildlands.

HOW YOU CAN HELP These are ambitious goals, which if successful, will position the voice off the Mazamas as a primary leader in shaping the future of outdoor recreation and conservation for Oregon and the Northwest. We believe that all of our members will be proud to be a part of a Mazamas that is not only at the table for these important issues, but often at the head of the table, helping to shape the future of Oregon, and ensuring that our members and communities in the future can enjoy and experience the wonders of Oregon’s mountains and wild places for generations to come.

We deeply appreciate and need your support to continue this important work. None of our advocacy work is paid for by membership dues, class or program fees. It all happens because of the direct support we get from private foundations, outdoor industry partners, and individual donors.

The recent membership survey said advocacy was very important to members, ranking second only to our core education and activity programs.

Last year you supported us, and we ask you to consider helping us again in the year ahead by doing one or more of the following. ▶▶ Look for and engage in sign-on opportunities in Mazamas email newsletters or on social media. ▶▶ Tell us what you see and what concerns you regarding public lands, conservation, and recreation in our region. ▶▶ And for those of you that are able, to support the work with donations or pledges of financial support.

Thank you,

Mazama Staff Member Focuses on Stewardship & Advocacy ADAM BAYLOR is the Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager and is the Regional Coordinator for the Access Fund for Oregon & SW Washington. In 2015 he was awarded the Access Fund’s prestigious Sharp End Award for outstanding climber advocacy, and represents the Mazamas voice as a part of the Outdoor Alliance, the nation’s premier advocacy organization dedicated to conserving America’s public lands, and protecting the human-powered outdoor experience.

Lee Davis Executive Director

SEPTEMBER 2017 5

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES CRAGGIN' CLASSIC TRAIL STEWARDSHIP

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID (MFA) INSTRUCTORS

SEPT. 17 AT SMITH ROCK STATE PARK The Mazamas is leading a trail crew in Smith Rock State Park as part of the Craggin’ Classic in partnership with the American Alpine Club and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department. We are need of 10 volunteers ready to roll up their sleeves and give back to this staple of rock climbing in Oregon. Check out tinyurl.com/maz-stewardship for sign-up information.

We are looking for MFA instructors with advanced wilderness medicine training, i.e., Wilderness First Responder or equivalent. Instructors will work with the MFA Committee to deliver the lectures and field sessions based on our MFA curriculum. Contact the First Aid Committee if you are interested at firstaid@mazamas.org.

CRAG STEWARDSHIP SEPT. 30 AT THE BEND IN TIETON In partnership with the Washington Climbers’ Coalition Conservation Initiative, the Mazamas will lead a crew to repair the belay platforms and approach trails at the crag. Camping along the river in conjunction with local events available. We need 10 people to sign up; see the Mazamas Stewardship (Trail Tending) website for sign-up information.

ADVOCACY TRAINING OCT. 3, 6:30–8 P.M. AT THE MMC Do you want to become an Outdoor Advocate? The Mazamas is offering a training on how to become actively involved in protecting our public lands and the outdoor recreation experience. Presentation by Adam Baylor, Stewardship & Advocacy Manager.

JOIN OUR TEAM! The Mazamas are looking for a team of 5–20 active, engaged, and energetic volunteers to join our team of outreach volunteers. Responsibilities include representing the Mazamas at 2–4 events per year that align with our mission and reach people who might be interested in Mazama membership, activities, or events. We’ll provide you with a 1 hour training on how to set up and manage a table at these events. If interested, email sarah@mazamas.org.

6 MAZAMAS

MAZAMA COMMITTEES NEED YOU Are you interested in helping the Mazamas plan and expand on our firstclass trips, activities or classes? The committees below need your support.

Positions and time commitments vary; contact Justin Rotherham, Mazamas Education & Activities Program Manager, at justin@mazamas.org to discuss the open position that might be best for you! ▶▶ Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Risk Management ▶▶ Trail Trips

EVENTS & ACTIVITIES CRAGGIN' CLASSIC SEPT. 15–17, SMITH ROCK STATE PARK Join the Mazamas at the American Alpine Club's Craggin' Classic series, now back at Smith Rock State Park.

The Craggin’ Classic Series unites climbers around the campfire at worldclass climbing destinations. Each Series event is a 3-day climbing festival, a gathering of the tribe. Craggin' Classics feature climbing clinics taught by professional athletes and guides, parties, films, slideshows, presentations, music, food, plenty of high-fives, and local crag stewardship and conservation projects.

FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS SEPT. 27, OCT. 25, 5–8 P.M. AT THE MMC An open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls with a focus on helping your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere to encourage kids. Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults. ▶▶ Cost: $2 per person/$5 max per family. ▶▶ Details: tinyurl.com/maz-familyrock

MAINTAIN OUR BACKYARD HABITAT We are seeking MMC Volunteers with interest in landscaping. We are seeking ongoing volunteer help to keep the MMC property pruned, mowed, weeded, and representing the best specimens of the PNW native plants to maintain our Platinum level Backyard Habitat status.

Whether you know your way around a garden tool shed or are looking to learn, write to natalie@natalielozano.com to find out more!

MAZAMA ANNUAL MEETING OCT. 2, 6–8 P.M. AT THE MMC Join us for dinner and hear about the summits and valleys of the Mazamas during the 2016–17 year. Dinner is free to members that attend the meeting, with RSVP by September 25 at tinyurl. com/MazAnnualMeeting Agenda: Reports from the President, Treasurer, Secretary, Executive Director, Foundation Chair, and Committee Chairs. The results of the Executive Council election will also be announced.

The Annual meeting takes the place of the monthly Executive Council Meeting.

MAZAMA RANCH UPDATE

by David Byrne

I

n the June Bulletin you learned that the Mazamas Foundation purchased a two and a half acre property across the street from Smith Rock State Park, along with an overview of our next steps as we work through the Deschutes County Conditional Use permitting process (which would provide the Mazamas the option to develop the property). In the August Bulletin, we shared results of our recent membership survey, indicating that 91 percent of Mazama members show some level of support for the establishment of a Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock.

A significant milestone in the review process occurred on the evening of August 8 when we participated in the public hearing about this project. We presented our case to the hearings officer and county staff, and the public had an opportunity

to have their opinions heard. Many of the public comments related to issues associated with the increased popularity of the park, while other comments related to operations and the perceived impact this project will have on the neighborhood. The Mazamas project is a unique, customized, hybrid lodging experience, and we had a chance to explain the benefits we feel will contribute to Smith Rock State Park and the community. The video of the public hearing is available here: tinyurl.com/ ycbndw4g.

Additional information will be submitted to the county by the end of August to support our project, including clarifications and responses to comments made at the public hearing. A decision from Deschutes County is expected by mid-November. In the interim, we await the next Smith Rock State Park Master Plan meeting to review their suggested options and strategies to manage the park's popularity and growth. This information will be factored into developing our ongoing operations and business plan and inform how we can best work with their plans for the future.

THE MAZAMAS ELECTION It's time to VOTE in the Mazamas Annual Election. This year you'll be voting for your new Executive Council members, Nominating Committee members, and one Bylaws Amendment.

After the county's decision in November, there will be additional opportunities for member input, specifically on guest services and how the Mazama Ranch will be operated. Your opinions are important.

You can submit your comments by August 29 at tinyurl.com/y6ua7sn7. We will be hosting a series of outreach and listening sessions to provide information and opportunities for member feedback.

After member feedback is received, both the Mazamas Foundation Board and the Mazamas Executive Council will need to approve the development plan in order to move forward.

If the Conditional Use Application is approved and the project aligns with Mazama aspiration and budgets, construction could begin as early as the summer of 2018, and we could be operating by the end of the same year.

Executive Council Candidates: ▶▶ Matt Blecharz ▶▶ Keith Campbell ▶▶ Preston Corless ▶▶ Traci Manning ▶▶ Sandra Volk

Nominating Committee Candidates: ▶▶ Martin Hanson ▶▶ Brad Noren ▶▶ John Rettig

How to Vote ▶▶ E–Voting: All Mazama members who have an email address on file with the Mazamas AND who did not opt-out of E-voting for the Mazama Annual Election, will receive an email to vote in the election on September 3. This email will include a link that is specific to you (if you share an email address with another member, you will receive two emails to that shared address, each with a unique link). You will click on this link to make your election choices. Once you have confirmed your selections you cannot change your vote. You must utilize this voting link by Oct. 2 at 4 p.m. No votes can be accepted after that time.

▶▶ Vote by Mail: All Mazama members who opted-out of E-voting, or who do not have an email address on file with the Mazamas will receive a paper ballot by standard USPS mail. This ballot will arrive around September 3 and will include a voter pamphlet, ballot, and return envelope. Make your election choices, put your ballot in the return envelope, place a stamp on the envelope, and drop it in the mail. Paper ballots must be received by Oct. 1:30 p.m. to be counted. Ballots received after that time cannot be accepted.

SEPTEMBER 2017 7

LEGISLATIVE UPDATE

by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager

T

he Oregon State Legislature made some significant strides this year in protecting recreation access, public lands, and funding for outdoor education. Here’s a snapshot of some of those key successes, some of which the Mazamas led to the finish line.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Measure 99: The Oregon State Legislature approved Governor Brown’s budget providing $24 million per biennium to Outdoor School. The Mazama Mountain Science School is a leading model in the state for how important this new funding will be for future generations.

Oregon Senate Bill 5505 created a process for the “State Land Board, the Department of State Lands and the Legislative Assembly to coordinate the transfer of certain trust lands managed for the benefit of the Common School Fund that have limited performance potential as assets to certain other public bodies better positioned to manage lands for the public’s benefit.” In short, the Elliott State Forest is protected for now.

SB 327—Recreational Immunity: “Extended recreational immunity to employees and agents of landowner when acting within scope of duties and those with private property interests in land. Eliminates duty of care to maintain land for entry or use by others for certain purposes.”

One example of how this will change access is at the Maple Bridge Climbing Area in Redmond, Oregon. This manmade climbing area was shut down due to liability risk. Under the new law, Maple Bridge is now open.

SB 3149 B directed Oregon Parks and This map illustrates the Mazamas geo-online advocacy efforts from January to July Recreation Department and partners 2017. Green markers indicate a location given such as your address from where a to develop a plan for final construction Mazamas member as well as some non-members used our online form to send a and maintenance of the 350-mile letter advocating for a position to an elected official and/or submitting public policyOregon Coast Trail. Look for the OCT related comments to agency officials. (illustration by Adam Baylor, online data from annual report to the Legislature in 2019.

Outdoor Alliance) House Bill 3350 created Oregon’s Outdoor Recreation Office within Oregon Parks and Recreation Department charged with coordinating recreation policy throughout the state, conducting interjurisdictional work (local, state, and federal agencies), and sustainably growing the outdoor recreation economy.

HB 2143 created Oregon’s Outdoor Recreation Day to be celebrated annually on the first Saturday in June. Mark your calendars and help celebrate outdoor recreation in Oregon with purpose! The act also highlights the economic impact of the outdoor recreation economy on the state. According to the Outdoor Industry Association’s 2017 study, Oregon’s outdoor recreation economy generates $16.4 billion in consumer spending annually, 172,000 direct jobs, $5.1 billion in wages and salaries, and $749 million in local and state tax revenue.

8 MAZAMAS

CASCADE-SISKIYOU National Monument

Unparalleled Biodiversity Unequaled Outdoor Opportunities Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument Scenes. Photos from top to bottom: Bob Wick, Shane Stiles and Shane Stiles.

by Jeanine Moy

T

wo mountain ranges abruptly intersect along the southern Oregon border; the melding of the northsouth Cascades and the east-west Siskiyou Mountains create a region of transition, contrast, and renowned biodiversity. This area provides vital connectivity between the Cascade Mountains, the Siskiyou Mountains, the Coast Ranges of Oregon and California, the high deserts of eastern Oregon, and the interior valleys of southern Oregon and northern California. In essence, the Cascade-Siskiyou region ties together the major plant communities and ecoregions of the west. These low laying mountains contain interesting overlap and grasslands, oak woodlands, juniper scrub, chaparral, dry pine forests, moist fir forests, meadows, glades, wetlands, springs and volcanic rock outcrops. continued on next page SEPTEMBER 2017 9

Cascade-Siskiyou,

continued from previous page

In 2000 the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument was established as the first and only monument designated for the primary purpose of protecting biodiversity. In January 2016, President Obama expanded the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument to its present 113,000 acres.

The most iconic landmark in the monument is Pilot Rock, but the expansion adds areas to the south, including Scotch Creek in California. To the west are the Rogue Valley foothills. In the north are impressive stands of old growth forest at Moon Prairie and Hoxie Creek along with upper Jenny Creek and the highly visited Grizzly Peak area visible just north of Ashland. To the east is Surveyor Mountain and the beautiful Tunnel Creek wetlands.

Together, the expansion represents 48,000 acres of public lands. Recognized as one of the most significant biological crossroads in western North American, protection of the Cascade-Siskiyou helps ensure a future for plants and wildlife far beyond the monument boundaries.

The Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument is one of 27 monuments across the U.S. under "review" by the Trump Administration with an eye toward reducing the Monument's size or eliminating protections.

NATURE NERDS TAKE NOTE

Countless rare species reside in the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, and here is a short sampling:

BUTTERFLIES Rivaling one other location in the United State for butterfly diversity, the Monument is home to over 130 butterfly species, including the rare Mardon’s Skipper found in sub-alpine meadows in just a couple locations in Oregon.

PLANTS One rare plant, officially listed as a federally endangered, is at the easternmost extent of its range in the Monument.

The gentner’s fritillary (Frittilaria genteri) is endemic to our region and only has about 35 known populations. Another rare lily family member is known in Oregon as a “species of concern,” though warrants further protection. The green’s mariposa lily, Calochortus greenei may be even more difficult to find at times, owing to the fact that it is capable of entering a dormancy phase and then reemerging at a later time.

BIRDS Uncommon in the United States, great gray owls, Strix nebulosa, are thankful that the Monument expansion now includes several of their known roosting sites for protection. They spend their time quietly in dense evergreen pine and fir forests with small openings or meadows nearby.

LICHENS

Above: Approaching Pilot Rock.

Photo: Bob Wick.

10 MAZAMAS

After the Monument’s designation in the early 2000’s, Rostania quadrifida, a unique lichen with square-shaped spores that was discovered at lower elevations and subsequently listed as rare in Oregon, seldom found in the broader Pacific

Northwest. Just last year, local biologists surveyed white oak habitats in the Monument and found a hefty 103 species of lichen living just on the oaks. True testament of the mixing ecoregions, the lichenologists observed patterns of species that represent the Cascade Mountain range, as well as species previously known only from the inter-mountain West. Three of the species are currently listed on the Oregon Natural Heritage Program list of rare lichens; Hypotrachyna revoluta (S3-vulnerable), Collema curtisporum (S1-critically imperiled), and Rostania quadrifida (S2-imperiled). Recent discoveries include many more species recorded for the first time in Oregon, such as Physcia subalbinea and Placidium fingens. Both should be recommended for conservation.

AMPHIBIANS While on a field trip in the monument, students at Southern Oregon University (SOU) were fortunate to find the Oregon spotted frog, Rana pretiosa, which was largely though to have been extinct in southern Oregon. Faculty and students at SOU continue to monitor the special pond habitats that the frogs rely on to lay their eggs—though the eggs are now free from the threats of cattle trampling the pond edges, they are extremely sensitive to climate change.

MAMMALS Just last summer, a SOU biology professor was taken by surprise when hearing the chirps of the alpine rabbit-family species, pika, Ochotona sp.—previously not known to live near here. Research has shown pika to be sensitive to climate change, as they do not hibernate and rely on snow pack to insulate their winter dens.

Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument scenes.

Photos from top to bottom: Bob Wick, Shane Stiles, and Bob Wick.

FUNGI In a terrific one-day Bioblitz, over a hundred members of the public found a grand total of 114 species of fungi.

Ninety-nine of those species were not previously documented on the Monument.

This includes 6 species that the BLM recognizes as special status species, along with others that deserve conservation status. Some of these beautiful fungi gems include: fairy clubs; Clavariadelphus ligula, Clavariadelphus sachalinesis, and Clavulinopsis fusiformus Even rarer still, the Entoloma violaceonigrum was found. This is now the only known site in southern Oregon, and just one of eight locations where it is known to exist.

FISH The Monument’s flagship fish species is its very own endemic Jenny Creek sucker, Catostomus rimiculus, spawning in Jenny Creek and other Klamath River tributaries.

Studies of these fish began in the early 80’s and continue today. Biologists are still learning surprising facts about their life cycle, habitat preferences, and populations.

GO THERE AND DO SOMETHING

Not only is the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument area filled with an array of flora and fauna, but there is a wide variety of outdoor experiences one can embark on.

HIKING Around 20 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail rambles in and out of the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument. Starting at the Green Springs Summit, you can either head north to Hyatt Reservoir or south to check out scenic vistas and early summer wildflowers

at Soda Mountain. Looking for a short, scenic day hike? For the most bang for your buck, access spur trails off of the PCT that provide scenic vistas like Pilot Rock via the Mt. Ashland exit, Hobart Bluff via Soda Mountain Road, or Boccard’s point via Baldy Creek Road. For those would rather not go it alone, try a guided nature hike. Many local groups including the Siskiyou Chapter of the Native Plant Society of Oregon, Rogue Valley Audubon Society, KS Wild, Friends of the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument, and the Soda Mountain Wilderness Council host local experts who lead fantastic public hikes.

continued on next page

SEPTEMBER 2017 11

Cascade-Siskiyou, continued from previous page CLIMBING The most iconic feature of the Monument is the Devil’s Tower-esque Pilot Rock, the summit of which is 5,908 feet. It features a commonly used 3rd class route on the north side and a few mixed sport/ trad routes on the south side. Caution should be exercised on southern technical routs regarding both summer heat and moderate rock quality. Read more about it in Greg Orton’s Southern Oregon Rock climbing guide.

ROAD BIKING Many locals organize social rides that are welcome to all. Typical routes up the winding and scenic Greensprings Highway provide stunning views of the southern Rogue Valley foothills. Take a mid-way break at the Greensprings Inn and Restaurant before completing the 40+ mile loop back down the northern side of the Monument via Dead Indian Memorial

Road. (And yes, locals are working on getting the road name changed!) Check out social rides such as the Ashland Up and Down on Facebook.

CROSS COUNTRY SKIING From the Dead Indian Memorial Road's summit at Buck Prairie, embark on rolling hills through big second growth forests with sneak peeks of Mt. McLaughlin or choose to go further down the road and find access via Buck Prairie II. This network of trails lies just to the north of another developing trail network around the Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument.

Enjoy the expanse of Howard Prairie, the varied woods by Table Mountain snow play area, or vistas from Chinquapin Mountain.

A good snow-trail map for this area was release recently and can be picked up at the kiosk by the Greensprings Inn or accessed online at tinyurl.com/yb3kuane.

WATER-PLAY Head up to Hyatt Reservoir, Little Hyatt Reservoir, or Howard Prairie for a day on the water. Rent a stand paddle board from the Ashland Outdoor Store, or Southern Oregon University’s Outdoor program.

STAY Friendly father-son duo runs the Greensprings Inn and Restaurant, makes a great brunch, and has a lovely porch to enjoy any meal. Indulge and stay in one of their cabins that were made tree-tocabin on site, with options for outdoor tubs. And you can bring your fuzzy fourlegged friend. For a well-rounded forest and cultural retreat, check out the annual West Coast Country Music festival that they host. Willow-Witt Ranch is nestled in the northern end of the Monument where you can enjoy a farm tour or stay in the Meadowhouse. You can also go primitive and opt for a yurt-stay. Check out some of the nation’s best agrotourism first hand and share your nature experience with well-mannered pigs, chickens, and sheep.

About the Author: Jeanine Moy is the Outreach Director and Adopt-a-Botanical Area Coordinator for Klamath-Siskiyou Wildlands Center (KS Wild). Formed in 1997, KS Wild fights for protection and restoration of the incomparable ecological riches of southwest Oregon and northwest California. They monitor public lands in the Rogue River-Siskiyou, Klamath, Six Rivers and Shasta-Trinity National Forests, and the Medford and Coos Bay Districts of the Bureau of Land Management.

From top to bottom: The trail to Pilot Rock.

Photo: Bob Wick. Hidden corner of the CSNM. Photo: Shane Stiles.

12 MAZAMAS

WHAT’S NEXT FOR OUR NATIONAL MONUMENTS?

?

by Tonia Lown-Hecht

P

resident Clinton designated The Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument 17 years ago in order to protect the area's scientific objects and honor its 1,000-year-old cultural significance to Native Americans. In 2016, President Obama expanded the Cascade-Siskiyou to a total of 86,774 acres of protected public lands. Now, iconic recreation opportunities like hiking on the Pacific Crest Trail, Grizzly Peak, and Hobart Bluff, and multi-day adventures through the Soda Mountain wilderness, climbing Pilot Rock, and kayaking in Jenny Creek are all under threat as Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke reviews Obama era monument designations. Hikers, climbers, paddlers, and many other outdoor recreationists depend on the Casacade-Siskiyou for its solitude and beauty. Pressure from climate change, land developers and the timber industry puts our shared values for this special place at risk.

And the Cascade-Siskyou is just one of dozens of such special places up for review.

Citizens from across the country, however, are banding together to ensure these wild lands remain wild. For 60 days in early summer, outdoor enthusiasts of all stripes flooded the Department of the Interior with testimonies about how much they love their public lands.

These comments were in response to a “review” process, dictated by Executive Order, that put protections for millions of acres of public land on the chopping block. Bears Ears National Monument in Utah was a particular focus of the review, and Outdoor Alliance and Access Fund gathered more than 8,000 comments from you, which we hand-delivered to the Department of the Interior in late May. Over the course of the 60-day review period, Outdoor Alliance and our member groups rallied more than 20,000 comments defending public lands across the country.

So what‘s likely to happen next in this monument “review”?

On June 10, Secretary Zinke delivered an “interim report,” required under the Executive Order, which included a recommendation to shrink Bears Ears.

The report included no maps, and the scale of the modifications he intends to recommend are wholly unknown.

In the last few weeks, Secretary Zinke has stated that he will not recommend changes to a few monuments, including Canyons of the Ancients in Colorado,

Hanford Reach in Washington, Grand Canyon-Parashant in Arizona, Upper Missouri River Breaks in Montana, and Craters of the Moon in Idaho. While it’s a relief to hear that some of these monuments are no longer threatened, the very idea of rescinding or modifying any protections through this process remains offensive. National Monuments are protected with an enormous amount of public input, and efforts to repeal or rescind those protections based on a brief, unsystematic, and seemingly deeply predetermined review are dubious at best and potentially illegal.

The outdoor community has been really involved in speaking out to defend public lands during this monument review. While our expectations for Secretary Zinke’s recommendations August 24 are not high, there’s reason to believe that without our community’s outreach, they would be even worse. Ultimately, this is a political process, and attaching a political cost to these proposed changes—by demonstrating how deeply unpopular they are—will help keep these proposals away from the worst-case scenario. After Secretary Zinke makes his recommendations, the President will have to determine how or if to put them into action; again, this can be an important time to demonstrate how unpopular proposals to roll back public lands protections really are.

If monuments are repealed or boundaries are adjusted, then

commercialization or energy development is a big threat. The areas where Secretary Zinke has indicated he will recommend leaving monuments alone seem to be areas that do not have good prospects for energy development, meaning that the public lands that are at the biggest risk are those with potential oil, gas, or mineral development on them. Presumably the next steps would be to follow through by developing those resources, potentially in a manner harmful to antiquities, conservation values, and recreation.

SO WHAT CAN YOU DO NOW? ▶▶ Keep in touch with your legislators, and follow whether your elected representatives have spoken out about the monument review. ▶▶ Continue to follow the news about the monument review (or sign up for our action alerts and we’ll make sure you stay updated). ▶▶ Be prepared to speak out again if you oppose changes to National Monuments, particularly those that are near you or in the state where you live.

About the Author: Tonia Lown-Hecht is the Communications Director for the Outdoor Alliance, a 501(c)3 nonprofit coalition of national advocacy organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, and the Mazamas.

SEPTEMBER 2017 13

AdventureWILD!

by Claire Nelson, Mazamas Youth & Outreach Program Manager

T

his year marks the 6th year of Adventure WILD! Summer Day Camp, and its first year selling out in the Portland area! Some of you may be wondering what exactly Adventure WILD! is and how this program aligns with the Mazamas.

Since 2012, Mazamas partnered with Friends of Outdoor School to further our shared goals of providing meaningful, educational outdoor experiences to youth in the Portland area. Adventure WILD! Summer Day Camp is an exciting and evolving piece of this partnership.

Historically, Adventure WILD! has served as a fundraiser for the Outdoor School for All campaign, supporting the popular Measure 99 to fund Outdoor School for Oregon's fifth and sixth graders. With the passage of Measure 99 and funds allocated to OSU for Outdoor School programming, Adventure WILD! plans to become a fullfledged Mazamas youth program. We hope

14 MAZAMAS

the camp continues to be a resource for the greater Portland area, along with our Mazama members and families.

Each summer, we welcome campers ages 4–10 from mid-July to mid-August for five week-long sessions. Campers experience their urban and wild natural environments through hands-on science experiments, art and play at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) and Laurelhurst Park.

Every Friday campers get to scale the MMC wall while being belayed by a Mazama volunteer. After all, it wouldn’t be a Mazama program without some rock climbing!

This year, we also took three of our camp sessions to the Mazama Lodge to experience the mountain and historic Mazama building in person.

Every week, camp has a different theme, from art and imagination to mountains and glaciers. Campers engage in a number of creative activities including fish printing, constructing fairy houses in the park, modeling the layers of the earth with clay, and watching miniature volcanoes erupt.

Campers also play games and just have fun being outside.

During the heat wave this summer, a favorite camp game was Drip, Drip, Drop, a version of Duck, Duck, Goose, where campers dump water on each other's heads!

Many Mazamas are already involved in Adventure WILD! This year four Mazama families joined camp, and we employed two Mazama youth. We also had eighteen Mazamas donate their time to help campers learn the basics of rock climbing and helped them participate in other camp activities. In total, Adventure WILD! brought one hundred and sixty eight people to the Mazama Lodge to experience the mountain this summer alone.

Youth programming is an important pillar of the Mazamas mission of, ..."everyone outside enjoying and protecting the mountains." Adventure WILD! exposes almost 200 young people a summer to the wonders of the natural world, the thrill of rock climbing, and the wild of our mountain. Experiences like these build a foundation of appreciation that can translate into a love for the outdoors and a desire to get out there and adventure. We can only guess at how many future Mazamas and outdoor enthusiasts

"My granddaughter, Alison, was thrilled with camp. One day at pick-up, she said she didn't want to leave! That, to me, says it all."

Learning from Mother Nature at the

AdventureWILD! Summer Day Camp.

come to camp every summer.

Adventure WILD! lets us engage in the community in a new way by offering programming to diverse youth. We also are exposing new families to the wonderful services and classes the Mazamas has to offer.

Thank you so much to the Mazamas community that supported or was directly involved in Adventure WILD! Summer Day Camp this year. We can’t wait for next summer!

We have received several requests for more information on how to get involved with our climbs and classes. If you have any questions about Adventure WILD! Summer Day Camp, please contact Claire Nelson, Youth and Outreach Program Manager, at claire@mazamas.org.

Photos by AdventureWILD! staff.

SEPTEMBER 2017 15

Volunteering with the Mazamas

What is the Mazama Volunteer Agreement?

If you are interested in volunteering at the Mazamas, there are only a few steps to take to get started.

1

Find an opportunity that interests you

on page 6 or at tinyurl.com/mazvolunteer

2

Follow the instructions on the opportunity

3

Complete the Mazama Volunteer Agreement

4 VOLUNTEER!

Opportunities Are you curious about the different types of volunteerism at the Mazamas? Here's just a few of the many things you can get involved with as a volunteer. ▶▶ Activity leader (Climbs, Hikes, Outings) ▶▶ Committee member ▶▶ Activity instructor ▶▶ Activity assistant

▶▶ Office volunteer ▶▶ Outreach team member ▶▶ Used Equipment Sale ▶▶ Event support ▶▶ Mazama Library assistant

Over a three-year period a Volunteer Agreement was drafted, reviewed, sent to members for feedback, revised, and approved by Executive Council in September 2016. The Executive Council set a timeline of one year for all Mazama volunteers to sign the Volunteer Agreement before undertaking a volunteer role.

▶▶ Mazama Lodge work ▶▶ MMC landscaping ▶▶ Trail tending ▶▶ Data entry ▶▶ And much more!

Mazama volunteers work in partnership with fellow volunteers, staff, Executive Council, Mazamas, and the general public as an agent of the Mazamas to develop and implement our programs and activities. To make this partnership safe, enjoyable, educational, effective, and rewarding this agreement details what the Executive Council, staff members, and other volunteers promise to you and expect of you. The standards of performance, ethics, and conduct reflect the core values of the Mazamas.

All volunteers, new and returning, are required to sign this agreement prior to beginning a Mazama volunteer assignment.

Sign the agreement now at: tinyurl.com/MazVolAgreement

CURRENT VOLUNTEERS

We appreciate your dedication to the Mazamas! Please help us meet the goal of having all volunteers sign the Mazama Volunteer Agreement by the Oct. 1, 2017 deadline.

Go to: tinyurl.com/ MazVolAgreement

16 MAZAMAS

NEW WEBSITE TO IMPROVE VOLUNTEER MANAGEMENT We'll be rolling out some fantastic features for volunteers in the new Mazama website. The volunteer portion of the site will be part of the second phase of launch, in March/April 2018. We are very excited to bring exciting new features to you, our volunteers. What will you be able to do as a volunteer on the new website?

Create a User Account Update your info as necessary.

Complete a Volunteer Profile Detail your interests, skills, and availability

Search online for Volunteer Positions that interest you

Sign up online for a Volunteer Position

Track your volunteer hours For the first time the Mazamas will be able to get a very detailed view of the number of hours individuals are donating to the organization and where they are spending their time.

DID YOU KNOW that many companies offer matching programs for employees who volunteer at nonprofits? Check with your HR department today!

Earn Badges You can accumulate badges for completing classes, attending trainings, and more.

Recruitment Once you have input your interests into the system, we can search for you too! If your interests and badges meet a specific volunteer need, we can contact you directly to see if you are interested in a particular volunteer position.

Track All of Your Mazama Volunteerism in ONE Location Not all volunteer jobs will be sourced through the new website. However, that doesn't mean you can't track your volunteer involvement? Did you spend an hour answering committee emails? How about 4 hours on a student sorting? You can track all of your volunteer positions by manually entering a volunteer job onto your account.

Thank YOU

At the Mazamas, we annually receive support from 600+ volunteers who collectively donate more than 100,000 hours every year. Our volunteers are some of the best out there. Thank YOU for all that you do for the Mazamas!

SEPTEMBER 2017 17

SUMMER STEWARDSHIP

by Adam Baylor, Stewardship and Advocacy Manager

S

ummer is a time to roll up the sleeves and put in some hours on our local trails and crags. Volunteers performed some key trail tending work keeping access to some of our favorite hiking and climbing destinations in the area.

Here’s a brief update on some of the Mazamas recent stewardship work.

ROOSTER ROCK ON JULY 8 The climber trail was overgrown, so volunteers cut back brush, repaired tread, and inspected a new belay platform, staircase, and trail to the lower point of the rock formation toward the southeast. We’ve decided to call this new trail section the Chiclet (easy scramble with good view). Future trail work at Rooster Rock will take place in the late fall and spring of 2018.

MAZAMA TRAIL ON MT. HOOD ON JULY 27–29 Rick Pope and a total of 31 volunteers over three days logged out dozens of trees, cleaned drainages, and cut back overgrown understory brush on our adopted trail. Thanks to Mazamas dropping in each day, the amount of registered trail tenders and no-shows balanced out.

KINGS MOUNTAIN ON AUGUST 11 A small crew of 10 volunteers from the accounting firm PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) made the hike up Kings Mountain for a day of trail tending. This was the group’s first time on the hike and to perform trail work. The effort paid off, and the 21/2 miles of trail to the summit is in great shape. Future trail work on the Elk-Kings traverse as well as the Elk Mountain Trail will take place next year as well.

UPCOMING TRAIL TENDING AND CLIMBER STEWARDSHIP See the Volunteer Opportunities section for more information!

If you would like to lead a trail tending trip or join a crew, please contact Adam Baylor for more information (adam@Mazamas.org).

Trail crew on Kings Mountain.

18 MAZAMAS

THE ELLIOTT STATE FOREST A LIGHTNING ROD IN THE DEBATE OVER PUBLIC LANDS

by Barbara Weiss

P

ockets of old growth, steep canyons, winding streams bounded by giant ferns, stones furred with thick emerald-green moss—the Elliott is an 82,500-acre forest fairyland just four hours south of Portland in the Coast Range.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock in a different forest this past year, you probably know the Elliott State Forest has also been in the news—a lot.

The Elliott State Forest was one of the Common School Lands intended to produce revenue for schools from timber sales. But the State consistently lost money on Elliott timber harvests, and in February this year the State Land Board voted to sell the Elliott. The Lone Rock Timber Management Company and the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Tribe Indians stepped up with a proposal to buy.

Conservationists and timber industry advocates were immediately at loggerheads. Conservationists argued that the sale would have dire consequences for the public and the environment: ▶▶ Public access would be dramatically reduced ▶▶ Stream and coho salmon protections would disappear ▶▶ Critical habitat for the northern spotted owl, and marbled murrelet would be damaged ▶▶ Rare, old stands of the forest would be cut and the lumber shipped overseas ▶▶ Timber advocates argued that the forest could be logged responsibly and profitably.

The sale of the Elliott seemed inevitable. However, on May 9, 2017 after a groundswell of public opposition, in a remarkable reversal the Oregon State Land Board changed course and voted to keep the Elliott in public ownership.

On July 4, 2017 the Oregon legislature voted to approve a $100 million bond to protect the Elliott, effectively ending

the state's obligation to earn money for schools from the forest's old growth trees.

Conservationists and Elliot supporters across the state breathed a sigh of relief.

The Elliott is a lightning rod in a continuing national debate about the privatization of public lands. In Oregon, more than half our land is owned by the federal or state government, so it’s a particularly charged debate. There are never easy answers when public school funding and economic and environmental impacts are at stake. But Oregon’s public lands—our forests, our beaches, our deserts, our parks—are irreplaceable and worthy of every thoughtful effort to preserve the habitats of diverse species and protect public access for future generations.

Public lands are a gift we should never take for granted.

Photo Top: Elliott State Forest, Oregon Department of State Lands.Bottom: Jason Gonzales, Oregon Wild website.

About the Author: Barbara Weiss has been hiking and climbing in the Pacific Northwest, and beyond for over 40 years.

SEPTEMBER 2017 19

CLIMBING IN

CHAMONIX

by Jonathan Barrett

F

irst, let me paint you a picture. Jon had squirmed his way up the chimney to a jammed block the size of a cantaloupe, right side in and left side out. Clipping the old tat hanging from it, he was without any other way to protect the next series of moves. His pack dangled at foot level from his harness like a pendulum swaying out of time.

Stepping into a sling, he began to pivot and writhe sideways over the block which rocked ominously under his weight. The movement was physical, comical, and bold. I sat in a block of gneiss in the warm sunshine below his acrobatics gnawing on my sandwich from Le Fournil Chamonaird and watched his gyrations thoughtfully because I was next in line. He called down that the interior was surprisingly slick, which perhaps explained his slithering through the gap like a snake. A few moments later, though, he triumphantly appeared peeking over the top of the spire that was barely larger than a doormat. Well, darn it, I thought, I guess that means I’m up to bat next. And I can assert it was twice as much fun to replicate as it was to watch.

20 MAZAMAS

Between July 8th and the 23rd, nine of us spent day after day enjoying Chamonix.

The participants were Lee Davis (leader), Ally Imbody (co-assistant leader), Rayce Boucher (co-assistant leader), Rhonda Boucher, Chuck Aude, Jonathan Barrett, Jon Skeen, Nicole Castonguay, and Elisabeth K. Bowers. The beauty of climbing in Chamonix is that there is literally something for everyone, and each one of us found a way to draw from the trip something that suited our own desires and tastes. But the climbing itself is only one small part of the experience.

This morning, as I bang out the first draft of this report, I am sitting at the dining room table of our chalet with Jon and Chuck. From my vantage point, I can see the glacier-capped summit of Mont Blanc nearly 13,000 feet above the valley floor. The morning rainstorm has ended, and the impossibly immense seracs of the Bossons Glacier are a complex of light and shadow. All the while, the tangle of roses along the deck bob and nod their heads sleepily just outside the window.

The three of us sit and chat casually about writing computer code and outsourcing to India, working from home and being

a desk jockey in a cube farm. As a high school teacher, the conversation is a view into a world that is utterly different from my own. This too, is what makes the Chamonix outing unique and special.

Just the other night, we built a fire in the fireplace, not because the night was cold but because we could. EKB, having just soaked in the hot tub (oh, by the way there was a hot tub!), stepped outside, still in her bathing suit and wrapped in a towel, to split wood with a rusty French hatchet.

The thunderous bangs caused a neighbor with a British accent to call out to her, “Are you about done with that? It is quite late!”

Such a polite way to request her to knock it off. Several of us then sat near the fire chatting about nothing and everything simultaneously, and laughing about the ridiculousness of the situation. But not all the moments were quite so sublime and carefree. As evidence, consider the following anecdote.

“No, no, you can’t lock the door. My friends are out there,” I pleaded with the lift operator. He had slid the thick steel bolt into place, closing a door seemingly designed to take a bomb blast. Sheets of rain whipped across the mountain. “No.

I close the door,” he responded in clipped English. “No, my friends are still on the route,” I pleaded again and gesticulated with a form of alpinist’s ASL, as if that would help me translate the problem into French. Chuck and I had just finished the East Ridge of the Grands Montet, a rambling low-consequence line that we had chosen because the forecast had been ominous at best and potentially apocalyptic at worst. He and I finished earlier than Ally and Nicole and continued on up the Petite Verte, climbing the final 5.fun section in crampons. The whole time the rock was wet, and there was occasional drizzle. From our vantage point, maybe a quarter mile away, we had waved at them, and they waved back. It was all good. The weather was holding long enough for us to finish. When we returned to the lift, they were not back yet. At last, the clouds could no longer hold their moisture, and it came pouring down. “No, no. They will be here any moment. Please unlock it,” I said again and pointed into the maelstrom. The lift op just looked at me with a puzzled expression. Then Nicole’s face appeared in the window. She was drenched. And my seemingly insane claims were vindicated.

The Frenchman’s expression was easy to read, By god, there was someone still out there! He slid back the bolt, letting them in out of the storm. Later, at the base of the lift, the clouds pulled apart sending down strong summer sunshine.

In Chamonix, you can find as much adventure as you wish to seek out. It is entirely possible to make a Tyrolean traverse, like we did one afternoon, from the first to the second Clocheton (roughly translatable as a belfry) on steel t-shaped bars placed a century ago. To do it, though, you need to lasso them like the Lone Ranger. We also climbed a brand spanking new via ferrata route called Via des Evettes, which included a Himalayan bridge over a chasm. This could be extended into a longer via corda route up a vague ridge, where you simul-climbed as a team clipping lustrous steel bolts exactly where you needed them to be. Whether you are a doer or a viewer, there was something for everyone. Riding the Midi lift from Chamonix to the top station at 3,842 meters, we were stuffed into the “bin”—as it is often called—with tourists from Asia going simply for the spectacular vistas from the observation deck and weathered

French guides who casually short-roped their clients down a perilous fin of snow all the while smoking a cigarette and saying in semi-encouraging tones, “Good job, guy.”

It is impossible to do much meaningful alpine climbing in a group of eight or nine, so in the evenings we would sit together in the chalet and discuss ideas for the following day. Some would want in on the next day’s adventures and others would want out, preferring instead to take a rest day, for which you could take the train into Switzerland for lunch or have a day at the spa where rainforest sounds are played while you are misted from multiple shower heads. Over a game of Carcassone or Anomia, we would develop a tentative plan, always contingent on

continued on next page

Clockwise from left: Chuck Aude on the final traverse of the Via des Evettes via corda finish.

Jon Skeen tests his Tyrolean Traverse on the Clocher-Clocheton Traverse.

Fougasse: it’s how the French have cold pizza for breakfast. In the Alps what constitutes an anchor varies widely. This one does not seem to be an “off the shelf” piece of equipment. Elisabeth Bowers (EKB) and Jon Skeen share the summit of the Label Virginie route with another party while Mont Blanc looms in the distance. Climbers on the Arete du Diable Traverse on Mont Blanc du Tacul. Chuck Aude and Lee Davis join the conga line of people going up the Via des Evettes via feratta. Photos: Jonathan Barrett

SEPTEMBER 2017 21

Chamonix, continued from previous page the weather. The Chamonix app was regularly referenced. The forecast, although sometimes difficult to translate from French, was accompanied by graphics. We got many laughs from the cartoonishly drawn lightning bolts coming down like the ire of the gods to smite the French/ Italian summit of Mont Blanc. It was never entirely clear what that icon meant.

Ultimately a plan would be formulated, often driven by a person who was motivated to climb something of personal interest.

As a point of comparison for the range of climbing that we did, I offer the two climbs: Hotel California and the traverse of the Petite Charmoz. The first is in the Aiguille Rouge on the north side of the valley and is accessed via the Planpraz lift. Rhonda and I climbed as a pair, and Rayce and Nicole joined together as a team. The route is entirely bolted and takes a mellow yet interesting line of ten distinct pitches up a buttress. The climbing is enjoyable from start to finish with a variety of styles and movements. Afterwards, we gathered at the Dru restaurant to lounge on the patio.

The second climb, Petite Charmoz, was much more alpine in nature. Jon and I took the gamble that the cloudy, wet weather would eventually clear. The approach was severe: nearly two hours of cross country travel up and over the moraines and boulder fields beneath the Aiguilles de Peigne, Plan, and Charmoz. The clouds had

dropped so low that our beta was almost useless. “Cross the moraine beneath the Glacier de Blaitiere (huh, is this it?) following the line of least resistance (what is the line of least resistance in a boulder field?) to reach the ridge coming down from the northwest ridge of the Aiguille de Blaiteire (stupid cloud cover!).” Eventually, after hiking up and down the glacier looking for the obvious gully (á la Fred Beckey), the swirling whiteness parted long enough that we were able to orient ourselves adequately. The climbing was wet, exposed at times, and definitely old school. Jon, the chimney master, thrutched his way up part one of the Etala chimneys.

I French-freed/aided my way up the second chimney, shredding my jacket on granite that was, paradoxically, simultaneously coarse and slick. Failing to follow the clear and accurate beta from the guidebook, we eventually blundered our way to the summit. The descent was long and brutal: multiple rappels, down-climbing loose scree, descending a series of rusty steel ladders, scrambling down to the main trail, and then hoofing it back uphill to the Midi lift. We were thrashed when done. But it was a beautiful success.

We had a small car for the two weeks, but it was almost never used because the public transportation was so user friendly.

A block away, we could pick up the city bus and ride it up or down the valley. It was a common occurrence to see a group of climbers board the bus wearing harnesses jangling with ice screws, carabiners, tricams, and other alpine accessories.

There were a plethora of hikers young and old carrying daypacks and trekking poles.

On one occasion, two elderly ladies, who were 85 if they were a day, boarded wearing matching home-sewn outfits and hiking shoes from the 70’s. They had battered

downhill poles of the same vintage as their footwear.

As for the lifts, we had an all-inclusive pass that gave us unlimited access to all of the lifts in the valley for the period we were there. There was no need for the epic slogs to tree-line we all love to hate in the Cascades. It is lift-serve alpinism at its finest. Once up high, there was more than adequate signage for directions. Both formally established and climbers’ trails were easy to follow. And when we were thirsty at the end of a climb? An Orangina or Coke could be purchased and consumed in a lounge chair while overlooking the cliffs and glaciers of the Mont-Blanc Massif.

Lastly there was the food. Just a block from the Midi station is an exceptional bakery serving all manner of treats: croissants that were the perfect blend of buttery flakiness and chew, sandwiches that could be stuffed into a pack before the climb, meringues as big as a child’s head, and baguettes fine enough for Julia Child.

Stopping at one of the huts, you could get an omelet to satiate the hungriest alpinist. Rayce and Rhonda attempted to explore the wild world of French cheese and discovered that explanations in broken English about the flavor profiles of a particular fromage are at best challenging and at worst misleading. How does one say “stinky feet” in French? Then there were the cured meats. In the fine shops, mysterious sausages hang from hooks like magical chrysalises, the exteriors covered in an alchemical mold barely known to science. Sometimes we ate as a group; one night we pot-lucked on the back deck beneath the alpenglow of the aiguilles.

Often we dined in small groups out at a restaurant. One night Chuck, Lee, EKB and I dined al fresco at a tiny place called

From left to right: Jon Skeen about to get physical on the Clocher-Clochetons Traverse’s final “old school” chimney. Chuck Aude discovers that wet granite is still fabulous on the Aiguille des Grands Montet. Photos: Jonathan Barrett.

22 MAZAMAS

La Cremerie des Aiguilles in Gailland.

The meats were grilled in an open hearth behind us, and the sautĂŠed vegetables consisted of tender baby beets and artichoke hearts. The meal drifted late into the evening, without any sense of urgency.

And that is the secret of the Chamonix outing. It was not really a climbing trip.

It was a diplomatic mission to meet with Oliviero Gobbi from Grivel, replete with fine Italian food and espresso. It was people watching of the first order.

Chuck and I listened to a guide from the Companie des Guides de Chamonix describe to his client, from first-hand experience, what climbing in the valley was like in the 1940s. It was conversation and comradery fostered by shared artisan breads, broken on the deck of a chalet at the foot of Mont Blanc. I know that Lee sees himself there again next year, and I plan on returning for my fourth visit.

About the Author: Jonathan Barrett grew up in New England and moved to Oregon in 1997.

He joined the Mazamas in 2007. When not working as a full time language arts teacher at North Marion High School or being a father to a 1st grader, he finds the occasional morning here and there to sneak up Mt. Hood, pull some plastic, or crank out a long run in Forest Park.

From left to right: Chuck Aude and Lee Davis are all smiles as they discover the pleasure of the Via des Evettes via ferrata. Jon Skeen finds the long descent off the Petite Charmoz traverse made somewhat more palatable by a series of ladders back to the glacier. Photos: Jonathan Barrett.

SEPTEMBER 2017 23

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

AYM hikers spend a hot summer day enjoying the pools and scenery at Opal Creek.

Photo: Reena Clements

Check our website, tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities, and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$3 for nonmembers.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meetings are on the fourth Monday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. ▶▶ Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month. ▶▶ We also host board game night on the first Thursday of the month. Check the Meetup page for location as they rotate every month!

LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN AND APPLE PICKING SEPT. 10*

OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY

Join the Mazamas for an autumn adventure in the Hood River Valley. We will start with a short and scenic hike on Lookout Mountain for an amazing view of Mt. Hood. After the hike, we will head to the nearby Kiyokawa Family Orchards for fruit picking! If there is interest, we can finish our day with food and refreshments in Hood River. Hike: 2.9 mi., 565 ft., 170 mi. RT. Bring cash for your fruit! Meet at the NW Corner of Gateway Transit Center, 8 a.m. Leader: Reena Clements, reenac@bu.edu.

*hike will be moved to Sept. 23 if apples aren't available on Sept. 10.

PORTLAND, OR

ESTABLISHED 1971

OMCGEAR.COM 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

BACKPACK LINTON FALLS TO OBSIDIAN MEADOWS SEPT. 15–17 Join us in an overland trek through the Sisters Wilderness.

We'll clamber along Oregon's largest and least known waterfall, traverse marsh and meadow in a remote canyon, and hike out on Obsidian Falls trail. Limited entry permit. C3. 20+ mi., 3,400 ft. Capped at 8 hikers. Meet at MMC at 10 a.m. on Friday. Leader: Toby Creelan, toby@creelan.com.

INDIAN RIDGE LOOKOUT AND COUGAR HOT SPRINGS SEPT. 22–24 Enjoy a weekend cabin over 40 feet in the sky. We'll swim at Hidden Lake during the day and visit a primitive hot springs on the way out. Shared rental cost $15/day + hot springs fee $6. Meet at the MMC at 3:00 p.m.

Leader: Toby Creelan, toby@creelan.com.

24 MAZAMAS

MAZAMA LODGE Your Home on the Mountain.

Fall/Winter Lodge Hours: Noon Thurs.— Noon Mon. Past lodge manager Judy Head, who managed the Mazama Lodge from 1986-1991 with her late husband Bill Head, was back at the lodge in August for her granddaughter Chelsea's wedding.

Some of you remember Bill and Judy, and their wonderful way of making guests feel welcome at our home on the mountain. I enjoyed volunteering with Bill and Judy during their tenure, and it was nice to see Judy and her family at the lodge again.

On August 15 the lodge hosted kids and coaches from Yamhill County's GAINS Program (Get Active in Nature this Summer), which provides youth in rural areas with consistent outdoor fitness opportunities throughout the summer. Their overnight stay at the Mazama Lodge is their culminating GAINS experience, and the youth really enjoyed hiking in the Mt. Hood area, applying their new knowledge of Leave No Trace principles and expedition behavior, and other outdoor education experiences.

Jazmin, a 17-year-old in the program, told us, "At the beginning of GAINS I didn't think I would be able to do any of the hikes and now I feel really accomplished that I did. I'm excited to climb part of a mountain while we are here. I've never done that."

Thank you Janet Peterson, longtime Mazama and Vice President of the organization that developed GAINS. GAINS is a pilot project sponsored by a grant from the Nike Oregon Community Foundation.

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS Every Wednesday at 7 p.m., mid-Oct.—mid-April at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Evening travel programs is a speaker series that is by donation and open to the general public.

Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting a successful series by your regular attendance.

THIS YEAR'S LINEUP THUS FAR: Oct. 11—Grand Canyon by Mike Kacmar Oct. 18—Karakoram Climbing by Steve Swenson Oct. 25—Hiking the PCT Oregon by Eli Boschetto Nov. 1—Yukon Backpacking by Shane Harlson Nov. 8—Biking Cuba by Chris Dearth Nov. 15—Portland Alpine Fest Speaker Series Nov. 29—Climb Denali by Jill Kellogg Dec. 6—Big Bend by Bob Breivogel Dec. 13—Bike Tour Mountaineering by Terry Campbell Look for detailed descriptions in the next Bulletin!

First Program on Oct. 11 Grand Canyon by Mike Kacmar Photo: Dayne Topkin

SEPTEMBER 2017 25

OUTINGS Foreign and Domestic Adventure Travel MORE INFORMATION AND APPLICATIONS AVAILABLE AT TINYURL.COM/MAZ-OUTINGS.

ICE CLIMBING IN HYALITE CANYON, MONTANA DEC. 14–17 Do you want to become better acquainted with our "local" ice climbing crags? Do you want to get a jump on the ice climbing season to achieve your grander ambitions? This outing will introduce you to Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, Montana. Spend four days climbing by day and recovering in the hot springs at night! You must be independent setting top-rope anchors, leading WI2-5, or have a partner in the Outing that does. You may hire a reputable guide if desired. Orientation to beginner and intermediate level climbing through Outing leaders Rebecca Madore and Ania Wiktorowicz.

Group size limited to 8 participants. Total cost is $558 (8) or $817 (6 participants) for lodging, transportation, and outing fees. Food and transportation to and from Bozeman not included. For more information contact either leader: madore.rebecca@gmail.com or aniaclimbs@gmail.com. Apply online, payment due once your application is accepted. Deadline Nov. 13.

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

If you wish to contact the Classics you may attend the committee meetings every other fourth Monday of the month at the MMC at 11 a.m. The next meeting is Sept. 25, 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC. You can also email classics@mazamas.org or call Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 with questions.

LEADING EVENTS IN OCTOBER Those wanting to lead events need to reply to Rose Marie or classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month so notice can be included in the upcoming Bulletin.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway Transit Center; our west side point is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you may sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

26 MAZAMAS

BE A CLASSY CLASSIC We need folks to help plan Classics activities and events.

Contact classics@mazamas.org if you are interested.

CLASSICS LUNCHEON AT MAZAMA LODGE SEPT. 8, 11:30 A.M. Our guest speaker is Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager Matthew Brock. A $5 donation is requested to be paid to Charles at the lodge. Carpooling encouraged by meeting at the MMC at 10 a.m. RSVP by Sept. 6 to Classics@mazamas.org or call Mattie at 503-227-2345 to reserve your spot. We need a good count to plan the food.

CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCH AT MMC DEC. 8, 11:30 A.M. Join us for our annual holiday luncheon. A $5 donation requested and RSVP info. will be coming soon. Lee Davis will be speaking and we will pass out 25 and 50 year pins. Here's hoping we don't have to reschedule for weather as we did last year!

OPENING THE

VAULT

at the Mazama Library and Historical Collections

William G. Steel Scrapbook #3, MS2001.001

by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager

T

he Constitution of the Mazamas lays the foundation for the Mazama Library and Historical Collections (LHC). The original charter created the office of the historian to, “collect, classify and preserve in suitable form, all obtainable written or printed accounts of the society and its expeditions," among other duties. That mission has changed little over the years. The LHC continues to document and preserve the actions and activities of the Mazamas, its committees, and members. Additionally, the LHC serves to make available to members and the interested public a wide range of records that document the history of the Mazamas and the organization’s role in the history of the Pacific Northwest.

Over the years, the office of historian gave way first to an appointed librarian, then later to the formation of the Library Committee. Eventually, the library, archives, and museum collections merged into the Mazama Library and Historical Collections (LHC). In 2015 the Mazamas hired a trained librarian to oversee the LHC, only the second paid employee to do so and the seventh librarian to manage the collections.

The Mazama LHC acquires and preserves a broad range of activities from across the Mazamas. Besides the procedural records from 28 active committees, the LHC also takes in files and documents from the Executive Council, Executive Director’s office, and staff. These “records of merit” document the inner workings of the organization and include committee minutes, policy

revisions, and significant changes in the structure, direction, and culture of the Mazamas. On a selective basis, when it fits the collection development policy, the LHC also takes in manuscripts and photographs from members and in some cases, from nonmembers.

The most used collection is the Mazamas Summit Register Collection. The summit register collection, spanning from the mid-1800s until the present, is an invaluable resource for mountaineers and historians alike. Staff and volunteers field several requests a month from members requesting copies of summit register pages documenting the climbs of their family, friends, and past climbing partners. The number of requests peaks in the fall as folks inquire about unique Christmas gifts.

The manuscript collection contains, among other gems, Mazamas founder William Steel’s extensive scrapbook collection dating from the mid-1800s and the H. Fisher diary from the 1890 O’Neil Olympic Mountains Expedition. Documenting more recent history, the LHC holds William Hackett’s papers from his World War II military career and mountaineering exploits across seven continents, and Ray Sheldon’s papers associated with his tireless work to reestablish the Mazama Trail.

The Mazamas extensive photograph collection contains some of the earliest mountaineering images in the Northwest. Significant collections include the Mazamas Glacier Research collection documenting changes in the alpine environment, the Claude E. Rusk collection of glass lantern slides from the 1910 Mazamas expedition to Alaska, and some of the earliest work by the photographer and ethnographer Edward Curtis.

The Mazamas have long valued their history, and the findings of the recent membership survey back up this assertion. The staff and library volunteers are proud of their ongoing work and honored and humbled by the continued support. Please visit and use the library. Remember, it's yours to use!

SEPTEMBER 2017 27

ROUND TWO FOR THE

by Darrin Gunkel

L

RECREATION NOT RED-TAPE ACT

ast year, a bill that would make it easier for individuals and businesses to get permits for activities on public lands was introduced

by Oregon’s Senator Ron Wyden.

The 2016 Recreation Not Red-Tape Act (RNR) didn’t make it through Congress, but that’s not stopping Wyden from trying again. He’s introduced a new version of the bill and corralled bi-partisan support to help it along: Utah Republican Rob Bishop is co-sponsoring the updated RNR Act. In addition to easing permitting, the bill is a response to the surge, in Oregon and across the nation, in the outdoor recreation economy. Outdoor recreation in the US is an $887 billion sector that supports 7.6 million jobs, according to a report from the Outdoor Industry Association. Growing demand means more people navigating the sometimes complex terrain of federal rules and permitting. The hope is that streamlining the process will translate into more opportunities – for outdoor businesses as well as individuals.

The bill doesn’t ask for funding, at least not yet, and the Congressional Budget Office has yet to evaluate its costs down the line. But Wyden believes the act will be a boon for local economies. “Local outfitters, guides, restaurant owners and more all benefit from outdoor recreation – to the tune of about $10 billion in Oregon alone each year for recreation and tourism,” Wyden said in an interview with the Outdoor Alliance.

Another important feature of the RNR is a directive to federal agencies that manage public land, but that traditionally aren’t involved in recreation. These agencies, the Army Corps of Engineers is one example,

28 MAZAMAS

will take on new recreation responsibilities, in part by simply promoting recreation uses, on lands under their jurisdiction.

The RNR Act goes by S.1633 in its Senate incarnation. The house version is H.R. 3400. Here’s a run-down, provided by Senator Wyden’s office, of the bill’s salient features:

EXPEDITING PERMITS FOR RECREATION Guides The bill simplifies the permitting process for accessing public lands in several ways: ▶▶ Requires the Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management to review their permitting processes and improve efficiency, shorten processing times, minimize application and administration costs and create informational materials to help outfitters and guides navigate the permitting processes. ▶▶ Simplifies the permitting process for trips that cross from one agency’s jurisdiction to another. ▶▶ Encourages all federal land management agencies to work with states to allow visitors to buy a state and federal pass at one location and in one transaction. ▶▶ Directs land management agencies to make all visitor passes and permits for outfitters and guides available online.

GETTING MORE VETERANS OUTDOORS ▶▶ Encourages all military branches to include information about outdoor recreation opportunities as part of the basic services provided to service members and veterans. ▶▶ Encourages all military branches to allow active-duty service members to engage in outdoor recreation or environmental stewardship activities without taking away their hard-earned leave.

HOLDING AGENCIES ACCOUNTABLE TO MAKE RECREATION A PRIORITY FOR THE FIRST TIME

▶▶ Directs the Army Corps of Engineers, Bureau of Reclamation, Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (which controls water flows at hydropower dams), and the Department of Transportation to enhance recreation opportunities and the recreation economy when making land and water management decisions. ▶▶ Ensures federal land management agencies are meeting their recreation goals and holds land managers accountable for outdoor recreation outcomes. ▶▶ Directs the agencies to develop creative partnerships to sustainably extend recreation seasons. ▶▶ Directs revenue from ski area permits on public lands to fund ski area-related projects on the same public lands where the ski area is located, just like revenue collected from other recreation permits. ▶▶ To prioritize recreation, highlight the recreational values of public lands across the country, and encourage more National Recreation Area designations in the future, the bill creates a system of National Recreation Areas to manage these areas according to certain uniform guidelines.

MAINTAINING PUBLIC LANDS ▶▶ Encourages volunteer opportunities to help agencies carry out public lands maintenance projects, such as trail maintenance on federal lands. ▶▶ Establishes a pilot program for interagency trail management for trails that cross agency jurisdictional boundaries to ensure trails are maintained according to the same standards.

WHAT WILL TRUMP’S QUEST FOR E N E R G Y DOMINANCE MEAN FOR CLIMBING ON P U B L I C L A N D S ?

Reprinted by permission from the Access Fund; photo courtesy of Elodie Saracco In late June, President Trump announced his interest in establishing America’s energy dominance. He stated, “Under the previous administration, so much of our land was closed to development.

We’re opening it up. The right areas, we’re opening it up.” The administration is not wasting any time on this agenda. Through executive orders, President Trump has the Department of Interior (DOI) focused on two related initiatives: reviewing national monuments (EO 13792) and removing any burden to energy development on our public lands (EO 13783). The administration is also shedding DOI employees and hiring new employees who have strong ties to the energy industry.

This new DOI culture will grease the skids for energy development on public lands. And while energy development is one valid use of our public lands, it’s not the only one. Federal law states that climbing and other forms of outdoor recreation are also a principal (and profitable) use of public lands, and Access Fund believes that public lands should be managed for balanced use. Elevating energy development as the priority of public lands can affect our access and significantly impact scenic beauty, air and water quality, soundscapes, roads, sensitive natural resources, and safety.

National Monuments, which are currently being reviewed by the Trump administration, typically allow pre-existing

Photo: Elodie Saracco

energy development and/or mining to continue operations, but they prohibit new mining or energy development activities in order to protect irreplaceable natural and cultural resources. If a National Monument is rescinded or reduced, it could be opened up for energy development and mining.

At Bears Ears National Monument, for example, established activities such as climbing, grazing, hunting, OHV use, and wood collection are still allowed; however new oil and gas development is not. Even before the National Monument designation, Access Fund generally considered Indian Creek, a world-class climbing area within Bears Ears National Monument, well protected because the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) was obligated to conduct thorough analyses on how development activities could affect recreation, environment, and cultural resources—and climbers had a seat at the table in these discussions.

However, balanced land management is now at risk because the current administration has directed federal land management agencies to remove regulatory burdens to energy development.

If this direction is hastily implemented, our treasured climbing areas and our natural and cultural heritage sites are at risk. Already, Congress has repealed a crucial BLM planning rule, limiting the public’s ability to be involved in BLM land management planning, and the BLM has been instructed to limit analyses in order to fast-track energy leasing and drilling permits. We are concerned that climbing areas and other recreation sites will not be

thoughtfully and appropriately considered during land management decision-making.

On the bright side, not all national monuments with the potential for energy development will be rescinded. In fact, Secretary Zinke announced that Colorado’s Canyons of the Ancients National Monument will be spared, despite the fact that it has dozens of active oil and gas wells and holds the potential for many more. But one critical factor differentiates the fate of Canyons of the Ancients from that of Bears Ears: Colorado legislators urged Secretary Zinke to protect Colorado’s national monuments and Utah legislators did precisely the opposite. Politics is at play regarding individual national monuments, but it is clear that the underlying motivation for the monument reviews, regulatory rollbacks, staffing changes, and new land agency directives is to advance energy development.

Given all of these changes, we are especially concerned that climbers, and the general public, could get cut out of the decision making process, giving us no say in where and how energy development will happen on our public lands. Right now, Access Fund and Outdoor Alliance are focused on making sure that the human-powered recreation community is considered a “principal user” of public lands, so that we have a seat at the table during discussions that will affect our climbing areas and other recreation areas.

Secretary Zinke’s monument review was due to President Trump on August 24th.

Stay tuned for updates.

SEPTEMBER 2017 29

PoritnleanFdest Alp Katie Bono

Jess Roskelley

Events Include

Dawn Glanc

marcus garcia

Chris Wright

hn long Graham Zimmerman jo

THE SUMMIT Clinics & Seminars Portland Ice Comp Speaker Series & Movies Photo Contest y

t

b

d se o H

30 MAZAMAS

Nov. 14–18

Presented by

JOIN US as we celebrate the 5th Anniversary of the Portland Alpine Festival! The 5-day festival is for everyone who loves to play in the mountains.

Our athletes this year are posed to teach and inspire you with their technical skills and stories of adventure.

portlandalpinefest.org Tickets available: Sept. 10, 2017

SEPTEMBER 2017 31

CONSERVATION GRANT RECIPIENTS Every year the Mazamas Conservation Committee awards grants to organizations to support wilderness and conservation advocacy in the Pacific Northwest. If you saw the film Maiden of the Mountain about Kate McCarthy and her tireless support of conservation and preservation efforts on Mount Hood and in the Columbia River Gorge, you saw your dollars hard at work. The film’s production was supported, in part, by a recent Conservation Committee grant.

This year we received an outstanding array of requests, and issued more than $22,000 in grants. This year's grants support work ranging from continued support for Crag Law Center’s work on Mount Hood Wilderness and the Cooper Spur land trade, to emergency funding for Save Our Wild Salmon’s efforts to keep the Elliot State Forest public.

Today, the health of public lands, and access to the public lands where we climb, hike, and restore and recharge are under serious threat. The Mazamas Conservation Committee is thrilled to be able to support the conservation and advocacy work of the following organizations: ▶▶ Wild Salmon Center ▶▶ Crag Law Center ▶▶ Oregon Natural Desert Association

32 MAZAMAS

Hells Canyon. Photo: Joe Tordiff

▶▶ Oregon Wild ▶▶ Cascade Forest Conservancy ▶▶ Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility ▶▶ Friends of Mount Hood ▶▶ Hells Canyon Preservation Council ▶▶ Cooper Spur Wild and Free ▶▶ BARK

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS June 15, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Scott Stevenson. Harry Colas, Britt Hoover, Lauren Mason, Becky Nelson, Allison Richey, Anibal Rocheta.

June 25, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Jill Kellogg, Asst: Brett Nair. Steven King, Cristina Mihaescu, Mamiko Okada, Megan Skwirz, Adrian Smith, Nathaniel Zeiler.

July 8, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Leader: Jill Kellogg, Asst: Joe Powell. Jonathan Casanova, Daniel Gibson, Kristofel Simbajon.

July 8, Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier. Leader: Joseph Lockerby, Asst: Elizabeth Pedersen. Bertie August, Rick Craycraft, Eric Dattoli, Kate Evans, Yevgeniy Mayevskiy, Nathaniel Zeiler.

July 11, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Kirk Newgard. Matthew Bunza, Linda Man, Kaitlin Rupert, Karen Vernier.

July 15, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Yun Long Ong. Seeger Fisher, Jerad Kaliher, Michelle Martin, John Rettig, Andrew Rose-Innes.

July 15, Matterhorn, Ice lake. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Mark Salter. Jill Reynolds, Tom Shi, Justin Thibeault, Lee Tintary July 15, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Teresa Redman, Asst: Greg Scott. Ryan Abbott, Anne Boeler, Dave Goodman, Bill Guiffre, Joe Kaufman, Andy Phan.

July 15, Castle-Pinnacle, East Ridge. Leader: Terry Brenneman, Asst: John Nuttbrock. Tessa Buono, Jenna Holland, Hanka Manova, Marti McCleskey, Kristi Riedel, Kathleen Scanlan, Mark Wilson.

July 16, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Elizabeth Copeland, Asst: Whitney Lindahl. Bob Armbrester, Bri Berglund, Elizabeth Camp, Geoffrey Rahe, James Rehill, Gary Riggs, Kelly Rini.

July 17, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Michael Austin. Micheal Domeier, Jerome Leedy, Linda Musil, Zhan Shi. July 21, Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Bridget Martin. Lori Coyner, Chris Dearth, Ryan Gwillim, Marjorie Hendryx, Lindsey Mayo, Joan Wallace.

July 21, Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat. Leader: Lisa Ripps, Asst: Michael Hynes. Fred Dalsager, Teresa Dalsager, Richard Dotz, Duncan Hart, Melinda Krantz, Hanka Manova, Michael Sheridan.

July 21, Black Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Larry Buzan. Sherry Aanerud, Elizabeth Camp, Dyanne Foster, Greg Graham.

July 22, Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge. Leader: Michael Hortsch, Asst: Eric Dattoli. Carmel Adrian, Tim Collins, Britt Hoover, Jack Kuo, Kristi Riedel, Jeffrey Sullivan, Steven Zhang.

July 22, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Nicole Gaines. Anita Bieker, Reuel Kurzet, Dawn Van Seggen, Kate Wolpert.

Team relaxing after a successful summit of Mt. Olympus. Photo: Lisa Ripps.

July 23, Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Brooke Weeber. Kurt Gusinde, Craig Karls, Randi Reed, Adonay Solleiro, Linda Sun, Christine Yankel.

July 23, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Shane Harlson, Asst: Daniel Bailey. David Acton, Ahmed Aissi, Marsha Fink, Julie Kentosh, Jessica Sheets, Andrew Wendlandt.

July 23, Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Allison Legg. Samuel Barnes, Anne Boeder, Kimberly Hefty, Prajwal Mohan, Prasanna Narendran, Ken Park, Courtney Rust, Lane Williamson.

July 24, Howlock Mountain, West Saddle.

Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Nicole Gaines. Anita Bieker, Kathleen Welland, Kate Wolpert.

July 24, Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys. Leader: Alexander Fox, Asst: John Andrews. Melinda Hugo, Kirk Newgard, James Pitkin, Mark Stave.

July 26, Echo Peak, Spray Park. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Greg Graham. Zoe O'Toole, Mark Salter.

July 26, Cowhorn Mountain, Southwest Ridge.

Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Nicole Gaines. Anita Bieker, Reuel Kurzet, Kathleen Welland, Kate Wolpert.

July 27, Diamond Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Nicole Gaines. Anita Bieker, Kathleen Welland.

July 28, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Michael Lewis. Michael Austin, Eric Bruckbauer, Eric Dattoli, Virgil Hall, Marty Hinkle, Alex Lockard.

July 29, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Leader: Scott Osbron, Asst: Yun Long Ong. Anna Dearman, James Dearman, Jerad Kaliher, Meryl Lipman, Steven Loos, Kaitlin Rupert, David Urbaniak.

July 30, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Christine Troy. Kristen Frank, Cynthia House, Sean Moriarty, Prasanna Narendran, Dale Novotny, Zsuzsanna Vida, Elena Weinberg,

August 2, Castle-Pinnacle, standard. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Richard Schuler. Tyler Creelan, Rob Neyer, Rachel Smith.

August 3, Ingalls Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Stephanie Buer. Ryan Gwillim, Melinda Hugo, Meggan Low, Jorgen Rufner.

August 3, Eagle-Chutla, standard. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Rob Neyer. Tyler Creelan, Richard Schuler, Rachel Smith.

August 4, Del Campo Peak, South Gully.

Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Tim Donner. Amanda Brown, Elizabeth Camp, Kat Cummings, Howie Davis, Laura Guderyahn, Del Profitt, Kristi Riedel, Doug Wilson.

August 5, Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Leader: Robin Wilcox, Asst: Valerie Uskoski. Megan Banker, Erin Beyer, Teresa Dalsager, Eddie Ferrer, Patrick Hennessy, Steve Mogentale, Andrea Ogston, Andy Phan, Richard Schuler, Christine Yankel.

August 5, Old Snowy & Ives, Snowgrass Flat.

Leader: George Shay, Asst: Justin Colquhoun. Ardel Frick, Julie Kentosh, Prajwal Mohan, Bryan Oates, William O'Brien, Jeff Tolentino.

August 5, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Ryan Christie, Asst: Scott Howe. Patrick Beeson, Bri Berglund, Sergey Kiselev, Anna Lio, Sarah Will, Lily Xu. August 5, Gothic Peak, standard. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Howie Davis. Amanda Brown, Elizabeth Camp, Tim Donner, Laura Guderyahn, Del Profitt, Kristi Riedel, Doug Wilson.

August 12, Mt. Washington (Olympics), standard. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Scott Templeton. Jeff Deronde, Nicholas Ostini, Nimesh Patel, Christine Petersen, Rachael Power, Sam Reinkensmeyer.

August 12, Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir.

Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Yun Long Ong. Ahmed Aissi, Joanne Emerson, Marsha Fick, Aimee Filimoehala, Jeffery Filimoehala, Karen Graves, Kirk Rohrig, Max Rudolph, Stephen Zadrozny.

July 30, Black Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Bill McLoughlin, Asst: Randi Reed. Matthew Bell, Ryan Boger, Heather Johnston, Mark Meyer, Thomas Ulrich, Lily Xu. July 31, Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Leader: Lisa Ripps, Asst: Marjorie Hendryx. Kurt Gusinde, Matt Krueger, Michelle Martin, Dawn Van Seggen.

SEPTEMBER 2017 33

SAYING GOODBYE LYLE 'DOC' G. NICHOLSON

March 23, 1915–Aug. 9, 2017 Lyle "Doc" G. Nicholson passed away Aug. 9, 2017, at Providence Brookside Manor in Hood River, at the age of 102.

In 1948, he and his family moved to Portland where he established the Willamette Dog and Cat Hospital, one of the state's largest, small animal practices. He retired from active practice in 1970. Lyle was an active ham radio operator (AB7A), a charter member of the Columbia Gorge Model Railroad Club in Portland, and a member of the Mazamas and Trails Club.

He was preceded in death by son, Alan (1970); and wife Dorothy (2001).

Lyle is survived by son, Craig and wife, Sue of Mount Hood; son, Bruce of Beaverton; and daughter, Jan of Twin Falls; three grandchildren; and four great-grandchildren. A private memorial service will be held in September.

34 MAZAMAS

JAMES DAWSON HURST

Aug. 29, 1926–July 24, 2017

Long time Portland resident James "Jim" Dawson Hurst slipped quietly into the good night July 24, 2017, at the age of 90. Jim was born in London, England, Aug. 29, 1926, the only child of Frederick and Gladys Hurst. Young Jim attended Kings College in London where he proved himself on the rugby pitch to be a swift and sure winger. When Germany's air war surged through Europe bringing nighttime bombing raids to London, 14-year old "Jimmie" and the family found refuge in the bomb shelter he helped his father carve out in their backyard in the London suburb of Surrey. He joined the London Home Guard at age 17 and enlisted in the British Royal Navy two days before his 18th birthday, serving on the destroyer HMS Pelican.

Shortly after the war, Jim immigrated to Canada coming ashore March 8, 1948.

Following the ocean voyage he traveled by train to Vancouver, B.C. where he took a position as a trainee marine insurance broker with Durham & Bates of Canada.

His prowess in rugby earned him a coveted spot as a winger on Vancouver's venerable Meraloma Rugby Club. There Jim met Bill and Al Fitzsimmons, who subsequently introduced the handsome Brit as a prospect for their dear sister, Aileen. The two married in 1952 and transferred to Portland with Durham & Bates. There they became American citizens and raised their family. Jim was preceded in death by Aileen in 1993.

Jim specialized in marine insurance during his 45 years with Durham & Bates. He rose within the company from sales to Vice President, President, and eventually Chairman of the Board, in the course of which he built the largest independently owned marine insurance brokerage in the region. He engaged with many of the local maritimerelated companies as well as with vessel operators of national and international scale. Jim returned to London annually to represent his clients in the placement of their insurance protection. During his career, Jim was involved in many

professional organizations including the National Association of Insurance Brokers, Japan-America Society of Oregon, the Propeller Club of the United States, Portland Shipping Club, the Maritime Law Association of the U.S., and the Portland Regional Expansion Council. He retired in 1993 and the legacy continues today.

Jim married Linda Mook in 1994 and their love remained as his keel to his last breath. His hobbies through the years included photography, squash, downhill skiing, hiking, running, fly fishing, and travel. He was also an active member of the Mazamas—bagging summits on most of the Pacific Northwest's premier peaks. Jim and Linda enjoyed many travel adventures in their retirement years, sailing the oceans, steaming through Panama and Suez Canals, and rounding the horns of Africa and South America on more than one occasion. He especially loved to soak in the sun on the cruise ships, and from the deck of their Portland residence overlooking the Willamette River.

Jim was a man with a generous heart who loved and cared for his family deeply, as they did him. He will be forever missed.

He is survived by his wife of 23 years, Linda; sons, William (Pamela) and Donald (Patti); daughter, Patricia; stepdaughter, Tiffany (Michael); seven grandchildren; and six great-grandchildren.

In lieu of flowers, donations may be made to Oregon Public Broadcasting or the Oregon Maritime Museum.

DONALD C. EASTMAN

Aug. 20, 1922–July 26, 2017

Dr. Donald C. Eastman (94) passed away on July 26, 2017 in Hillsboro, Oregon. He was the husband of Priscilla Eastman. They shared 30 years together.

Born in Nampa, Idaho on August 20, 1922, he was the son of Elmer Ivan Eastman and Marie Eleanor Benedict Eastman. He attended Pacific University and University of Washington. He graduated from Pacific Dental College. He served in the Reserve Officer Training Corps for 15 months. He was a dentist and supply officer for the United States Army, stationed in Virginia for 2 years. He discharged in 1948 with the rank of Captain. He opened his dental office in McMinnville, Oregon where he practiced for 40 years.

Serendipity brough Don to the Mazamas. In 1954, while hiking and fishing at Green Lake, Don and Jim Craig met a Mazama group climbing South Sister and Broken Top. Later, when the two arrived home, they made a quick trip to the top of the Pacific Building in downtown Portland where the Mazamas office was located at the time. They spoke to Don Onthank, known as “Mr. Mazama,” and signed up for a Mt. Hood climb with Phyllis Neuberger as leader. During the climb snow conditions were such that they did a sitting glissade down to Silcox Hut. They had become Mazamas!

Don enjoyed leading climbs and derived great pleasure from the detailed planning. He was a cautious leader and instilled trust in those who climbed with him. The people he met climbing, skiing and serving on committees he considered some of his best friends.

Some of the last major climbs Don and Jim made were in 1984. They summited the Gross Glockner, the highest peak in Austria, the Triglav, the highest peak in the former Yugoslavia and Mt. Olympus, the highest peak in Greece.

Don's involvement in the Mazamas was quite prolific. He served on the Budget Committee in 1965 and 1966, the Finance Committee in 1962 and the Long Range Planning Committee from 1965–66.

He was on the Climbing Committee in 1959 and again from1967–69, and chaired that committee in 1969. Don served on the Mazama Executive Council from 1962–66 and again in 1975. Don was the Mazamas vice-president in 2962, treasurer in 1963, and president in 1964.

Don earned the Seven Oregon Peaks award in 1957, Sixteen Major NW Peaks award in 1959, 10 Peaks award in 1964, and was the first recipent of the 50 and 100 Peaks awards, in 1965 and 1967 respectively. Don won the 5-point leadership award in 1959, the 10-point 1960, the 15-point in 1961, and was the second person to win the Leuthold Leader Award in 1969. He was also awarded the Parker Cup, often described as the most prestigious Mazama award, for his service to the Mazamas.

Don’s love of the natural world and sharing that love with others continued after he stopped climbing mountains. He began his second professional career as a photographer after retiring from his dental practice.

After 50 years with the Mazamas, Don joined the ranks of Mazama Life Members in 2004. We were lucky enough to have Don visit the Mazama Mountaineering Center on June 23, 2014 at the age of 91, with his wife Priscilla, and Bill Mosser (Priscilla's son).

They dropped in to check out the Don Eastman display case (see right). Don seemed to enjoy seeing the collection of some of his old climbing items as well as pictures of his time with the Mazamas.

He was a member of First Baptist Church in McMinnville, Oregon and Village Baptist in Beaverton, Oregon. He was a past president of the Mazama Mountaineering Club, as well as a member of Kiwanis Club, The Native Plant Society of Oregon, American Dental Association, The Nature Conservancy, the Oregon Natural Resources Council, and was for many years a member of the American Alpine Club, the Iowa Mountaineers, and the Swiss Alpine Club in Zermatt, Switzerland. He was the author of Rare and Endangered Plants of Oregon.

He is survived by his wife, Priscilla Eastman; daughter and son-in-law, Kim and Steven Henson; grandchildren, Melissa Henson and Matthew Henson. He was predeceased by his first wife Sibyl Hauser Eastman, parents, and sister Lorraine Burson.

We published a feature article titled We Were Mazamas: A Profile of Don Eastman, penned by Bill Mosser, in the June 2014 Mazama Bulletin. You can read the article on our blog at tinyurl.com/MazDonEastman SEPTEMBER 2017 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips chair Bill Stein at trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK C2.5 Sept. 1 (Fri.) Bull of the Woods Wilderness Southern Loop William O'Brien. Wilderness— Limited 12. The Bull of the Woods Wilderness is the southwestern boundary of the Mt. Hood National Forest. It is probably the wildest of the forests' wildernesses. We will start hiking #544 Bagby Trail north from Elk Lake and this route offers open rugged mountain vistas. This trail leads to Twin Lakes Trail #573 where we will visit upper and lower Twin Lakes. Past Twin Lakes we encounter the not well-maintained Mother Lode Trail #558 taking it to the Elk Creek trail #559 then return to Elk Lake completing the loop. It will be fun to explore this remote wilderness and plan on a long day!

14.5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive 204, TH, Tualatin P&R Exit 290 off I-5 7 a.m.

(AR,WO)MU HK A1.5 Sept. 2 (Sat.) Rodney Falls & Beacon Rock Jim Selby 828-5085094. We get an early start to have parking for the Rodney Falls portion of the two hikes, then go down to hike Beacon Rock with lunch at the summit area. Great views on both hikes and a couple of unusual waterfalls. Nice steady pace. 4.8 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 88, State Park, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF,AR,GH)MU HK A2 Sept. 4 (Mon.) Lewis River Falls Flora Huber 503-658-5710.

Worth the trip to see this stunning falls and the river to and from the falls. Celebrate Labor Day by avoiding labor to see these falls. 6 mi., 200 ft., Drive 172, TH, MMC 9 a.m. (WF)MU HK B2 Sept. 6 (Wed.) Indian Heaven (Thomas/Bear/Blue) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Pristine Wilderness Lakes Wilderness— Limited 12. Spectacular Indian Heaven Wilderness Hike past several pristine lakes with relaxing views, huckleberries and interesting flora.

Lunch on the trail. Longer hike day but well worth it. 11 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 148, TH, Fisher 8 a.m. (WO)MU

36 MAZAMAS

HK A2 Sept. 8 (Fri.) Moulton Falls Flora Huber 503-658-5710. This shaded trail is perfect for a late summer hike. Both Moulton Falls and Yakima Creek Falls have had plenty of water and the resident Eagle entertains often. 6 mi., 200 ft., Drive 60, MMC 9 a.m. (WF) HK C2 Sept. 9 (Sat.) Angels Rest to Devils Rest Loop David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. First, we will hike to Angels Rest. Take in the views and then continue up to Devils Rest via the Foxglove route. Have lunch at the top and then begin our descent towards Wahkeena Falls stopping at Wahkeena Springs. From here we will continue back on the Angels Rest trail to the TH. Contact leader for any questions. 11.9 mi., 3,810 ft., Drive 43, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(WF,GH) HK A1.5 Sept. 10 (Sun.) Round Lake via Lacamas Creek Jim Selby 828-508-5094. An evening hike with unusual views of some nice waterfalls and a glassy-like lake, done before dark. 5 mi., 400 ft., Drive 60, Gateway 3 p.m. (WF)MU HK B1.5 Sept. 13 (Wed.) Kings Mountain Tony Spiering 503-6808112. Nice woodsy hike in the coast range with a view at the top. Shorter mileage but enough elevation to add some conditioning. Back in town early PM. 5.4 mi., 2,780 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) HK C2 Sept. 13 (Wed.) Nesmith Point Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Plenty of switchbacks with river and mountain views along the way. Great vista just past the point to include Mt. Adams and Mount St. Helens. 9.8 mi., 3,800 ft., Drive 60, MMC 8 a.m.

WEBSITE UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change.

Visit mazamas.org/hike for updates!

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500– 1,500 feet. Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

EASTSIDE STREET RAMBLES Wednesdays throughout the spring and summer. Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3 m.p.h.) through the streets and up to Mt. Tabor Park. 2 hours (please arrive early to sign in) 5 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, MMC, 6 p.m.

MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas (tinyurl.com/maz-aymactivities), and other Mazamas lead hikes as well. See the full list at: mazamas.org/activities-events.

HK B2 Sept. 15 (Fri.) Cape Horn David Gast pdg17838@gmail.com.

Join us for a great hike in the gorge to celebrate Indian summer. Great views and a waterfall all within a short drive on the Washington side of the gorge. We will meet at the secondary parking lot which is a bit west and south of the main lot at Fishers Landing Transit Center in Vancouver. 7.7 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive 32, Fishers Landing Transit Center 8:30 a.m. (WF,GH)MU HK B1.5 Sept. 16 (Sat.) Indian Heaven (Junction Lake / Clear Lake Loop) Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503665-6778. Wilderness—Limited 12.

This is a great time to visit Indian Heaven. Beginning from the East Crater side, we can expect a cool morning, serene lakes, and splendid fall colors. Come see! No dogs. 9.25 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 120, TH, meet at Lewis & Clark near toilets 8 a.m.

(WO) HK C2 Sept. 16 (Sat.) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35 Sherry Bourdin 503-314-2911. Wilderness— Limited 12. This hike will make you work to get the elevation but be rewarded with awesome views from an old Lookout site. On a clear day, you will see from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters. You'll definitely want to linger on this summit. 10.4 mi., 2,975 ft., Drive 136, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (MH,WO) HK C2.5 Sept. 17 (Sun.) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls) Kate Evans 503-635-6540. Wilderness— Limited 12. Enjoy the multimountain views from the top of this awesome conditioning hike.

Contact the leader by phone or email to sign up in advance. 13.8 mi., 4,100 ft., Drive 48, Gateway 8 a.m.

(AR,GH,WO)

HK A1.5 Sept. 18 (Mon.) June Lake to Chocolate Flats Flora Huber 503658-5710. Beautiful drive to get to June Lake with great views of Mount St. Helens, then hike to serious lava fields with Mount St. Helens in the background. 5.8 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 110, TH, MMC 9 a.m. (AR)MU HK B2 Sept. 18 (Mon.) Soda Peaks Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Dramatic terrain, and stunning lakes. A unique hike in the Gifford Pinchot. 6 mi., 1,675 ft., Drive 140, MMC 8 a.m.

(AR)MU HK B2 Sept. 20 (Wed.) Little Huckleberry Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. Steep hike to a dramatic viewpoint in the Gifford Pinchot. 5.4 mi., 1,800 ft., Drive 150, MMC 8 a.m.

(MH)MU HK B2 Sept. 22 (Fri.) Indian Mountain via PCT Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limited 12.

Near Whatum Lake, this hike has close-up views of Mt. Hood from the north. Enjoy the PCT and perhaps meeting some dedicated thru-hikers.

9 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 170, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WO) HK A1.5 Sept. 23 (Sat.) Heritage Tree Hike #4 Tom Guyot 503-7619519. This Sellwood hike stops at 14 trees representing 10 species.

The route includes Sellwood Park, a trail in Oaks Bottom, and a stop at the unusual Sherrett Square.

Our dog friendly walk will be moderately paced. Meet at SE 7th and SE Malden in the parking lot for Sellwood Park. Please arrive 10 minutes early to sign in so that we can leave on time. 3.5 miles mi., 100 feet ft., Drive none, N.A. 8:30 a.m. MU

HK B1.5 Sept. 23 (Sat.) Indian Heaven (Blue Lake) Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Hike from Thomas Lake TH to Rock Lake and on to Blue Lake. No sign-up list, just show up. 9.5 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 148, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (WO) HK C2 Sept. 23 (Sat.) Cast Creek to East Zigzag Mountain Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com. Wilderness—Limited 12. Lots of switchbacks along a forested ridge. Lunch on the summit where we enjoy close-up views of Mt. Hood as well as fine views of Burnt Lake, with Mt. Jefferson in the distance.

12.4 mi., 2,970 ft., Drive 93, Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Sept. 24 (Sun.) Wood Lake to Sawtooth Mountain Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limited 12. Great hike in the Indian Heaven area. We will hike down to the Lake and then return by another trail on Sawtooth Mountain. Magnificent views of Mt. Adams. 9 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 160, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU

HK C2.5 Sept. 24 (Sun.) Buck Peak (Lolo Pass) Dyanne Foster 503 267-8937. Wilderness—Limited 12.

Enjoy this lovely gently graded hike in the shade, on a soft trail along this portion of the PCT. Buck Peak is the highest point in Multnomah County with wonderful views of Lost Lake and Mt. Hood. Let's hope for awesome autumn weather! 16 mi., 1,351 ft., Drive 110, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR,MH) HK B2 Sept. 25 (Mon.) Tillamook Head (Seaside-Cannon Beach) Ellen Burns 503-703-8907. Historic Beach Trail. Lewis and Clark hiked this trail to the salt cairns along the beach cliffs. This trail includes ocean views, old growth, WW2 bunkers, and time on the beach. Lunch on the trail. Will be a long fabulous hike day. This hike will require a car shuttle to hike the entire trail. Do not plan anything for the evening of the hike. Iconic beach hike. 11 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 125, TH, Target/185th 8 a.m. MU

HK B2 Sept. 27 (Wed.) Red Mountain Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Great hike in the Indian Heaven area. We will hike the PCT from Crest Camp and then head up Red Mountain to the lookout tower on top 8 mi., 1,600 ft., Drive 130, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Sept. 29 (Fri.) Badger Lake Ellen Burns 503-703-8907.

Wilderness Hike Wilderness— Limited 12. This hike has interesting variety including a nice lake, creek, and viewpoint! A great way to spend the hiking day. Lunch on the trail, longer hiking day. When I think of creeks, Badger Creek is the one to see. 10.5 mi., 2,300 ft., Drive 136, Gateway 8 a.m. (MH,WO)MU HK B1.5 Sept. 30 (Sat.) Angels Rest Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We should beat the crowds on this hike, a leisurely trip to fabulous views of the Columbia, especially to the west.

I like to spend some time on top so plan on this hike taking 4 hours for the hike including generous snack & lunch breaks. 4.6 mi., 1,584 ft., Drive 42, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,AR,GH,MH) MU

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members:.........................34 Katrina Albana—Mt. St. Helens Gudrun Albrecht-Smith—Mt. Adams Nathan Allan—South Sister Steven Beardsley—Mt. Hood Mathew Brock—South Sister Andrew Call—Mt. Hood Ariana Chiapella—Mt. Hood Brianna Clark—Mt. St. Helens Katie Conway—Old Snowy Rebecca Corcoran—Mt. Thielsen Lindsey Dixon—Mt. Adams Matthew Durbin—Pico de

Orizaba Michael French—Long’s Peak April Grisetti—Mt. St. Helens Tarun Gudz—Mt. St. Helens Xiao-yue Han—Middle sister Anna Hare—Middle sister Patrick Hennessy—Mt. Hood Steven King—South Sister Trevor King—Mt. Adams Carly Lagoda—Mt. St. Helens Wendie Legee—South Sister Hanka Manova—Mt. Adams Rodrigo Melgarejo—Mt. Adams

Reinstatements:....................................4 Deceased:............................................1 Total Membership: Total membership as of July 31, 2017—3,590 Total membership as of July 31, 2016—3,568

Jim Selby and hiking group at Larch Mountain.

Bruce Melzer—Mt. St. Helens Arathi Mohan—South Sister Matthew Perkins—Middle Sister John Peyton—Mt. St. Helens Brian Skahan—Mt. Hood Phillip Smith—South Sister Paige Winans—South sister Suzie Wolfer—Mt. Hood Lily Xu—Mt. Adams Christopher Yuen—Rainbow Mountain

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

SEPTEMBER 2017 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) Upcoming Board meeting dates: Tuesday, September 19. All meetings begin at 3 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 3 p.m. and again at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting at this location: https://mazamas.org/members/executivecouncil-reports/ (you will need to be signed into the Mazama website to access this page).

President Steve Hooker called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 3 p.m. on Tuesday, August 15. No members chose to speak during the first member comment period. Motion carried to adopt the revised minutes from the July meeting.

Secretary John Rettig reported that current membership is 3,590, marking a net gain of 22 members over this time last year. Jon Jurevic provided the treasurer’s report. At the end of June, total operating revenue for the year is $923,596, and total operating expenses are $1,258,761. Total assets are $744,687. Revenue is tracking one percent above budget and expenditures are fourteen percent under budget. Jon then spoke about the third quarter budget forecast noting that revenue is 6 percent above projection while expenses are tracking at 4 percent below. Jon highlighted that approximately fourteen percent of Mazama revenue comes from dues. The rest is from class fees, grants, contributions, and other funding sources.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis recapped some upcoming events including the Annual Meeting on October 2 and the Portland Alpine Fest in November. In operations, Lee gave brief updates on the status of the Development Director hiring process and maintenance at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and the Mazama Lodge. In external reporting, Lee updated the council on the status of several legislative efforts, including the Recreation Not Red Tape Act sponsored by Senator Ron Wyden.

Lee provided updates on youth and community outreach work highlighting the success of the AdventureWILD! day camps and a potential upcoming event with Columbia Sportswear. Lee concluded his report by asking that council members attend the Annual Meeting.

Secretary Rettig followed with a status update on the upcoming election noting that 3,440 email ballots and 150 paper ballots will go out and members should have them by September 3. John reported that he has tested the electronic voting system and can attest to its functionality and reliability.

President Hooker presented a new Draft Public and Member Disclosure Policy at the July meeting. Noting that until now the Mazamas have functioned without a disclosure policy, he asked that the council vote to approve the plan with the understanding that changes can be made in the future. Following some discussion, the motion passed to accept the policy as written.

Vice President Chris Kruell discussed the 2016–2017 Fiscal Year Auditor Selection. Under the Mazama bylaws, the vice president has the authority to decide on the accounting firm that carries out the annual audit. Chris let the council know he has chosen to go with our current audit firm of Kern Thompson.

David Byrne was on hand to give an update on the status of the Mazama Ranch at Smith Rock project. The final public hearing occurred in Terrebonne on August 8. The public testimony consisted of two people in support of the project and

38 MAZAMAS

ten in opposition. The debate focused on issues related to the campground and the increased noise, people, and traffic the site may produce. The public comment period remains open until August 29, and all interested parties are encouraged to submit written comments.

Director of Communications Sarah Bradham reported that she and Mattie Courtright attended the Outdoor Retailer (OR) Show in Salt Lake City in July. They split their duties between developing new advertising leads and following up with existing sponsors.

Noting changes in the OR show schedule, Sarah is evaluating the Mazamas future attendance at the event. Turning to the Portland Alpine Festival, Sarah pointed out that almost all last year's sponsors are on track to return. The format of this year's festival is similar to 2016 with the addition of more evening clinics taught by professional guides.

The business reports ended with an update from Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager. The Mazama Library’s new online public access catalog launched on June 1. In the last two months, the library has seen a 34 percent increase in library circulation and set a new record for the use of the library in July. In summary, the library is adding new users, and the existing users are using the library more. Mathew also touched on ongoing outreach efforts, including exhibits and partnering with BigFoot Podcast Studios. Mathew ended his report with an update on ongoing fundraising and grant activities and shared some recent donations to the Historical Collections.

Following a brief break, the meeting reconvened with Lee talking about the next three-year strategic plan. The plan will focus on education and activities, facilities, advocacy, youth programs, culture, leadership, and fundraising. After noting that both advocacy and youth programs are self-sustaining due to fees and sponsorships, Lee delved into the two more complex components of the plan: education and activities, and facilities.

Lee and Justin Rotherham, Education & Activities Program Manager, will conduct a needs analysis to better understand the opportunities and challenges the organization faces in expanding educational and activity programs. In regards to the Mazama facilities, Lee noted that research is showing that renovating the MMC is looking less viable. He pointed out that the lodge needs to expand to support more youth activities. He ended with discussing the options should the Smith Rock Ranch project fall through and the Mazamas choose to look at other program centers around the Pacific Northwest.

No members chose to speak at the second member comment period. President Hooker then adjourned the meeting into executive session at just after 5:15 p.m. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, September 19, at 3 p.m.

We love these places. *

*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

Green Trails Maps™ is committed to supporting trail maintenance and development.

We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.

Get here on Map # 99S www.facebook.com/GreenTrailsMaps

www.GreenTrailsMaps.com

206.546.MAPS (6277) SEPTEMBER 2017 39

MazamasÂŽ 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

clinics | speaker series | the summit | portland ice comp

Portland Alpine Fest Nov. 14–18, 2017 2017 marks the 5th year of the Portland Alpine Fest (PAF), and each year just keeps getting better and better! This year's lineup includes athletes that are currently pushing their limits and the boundaries of our sport.

Details inside.

Tickets go on sale on Sept. 10, 2017 at portlandalpinefest.org.

y

t

b

d se Ho

Presented by

isley ie Pa n n o gn: B Desi