JANUARY 2015
VOL. 97
NO. 1
Get the most out of 2015!
CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon— Monday Noon
Mazama Staff
Devil’s Kitchen Headwall on Mt. Hood, December 2014. Photo: Karl Helser
UPCOMING EVENTS JAN. 13 —ADVANCED ROCK APPLICATIONS DUE See page 26 for more details.
JAN. 15 —BACKCOUNTRY FILM FESTIVAL
The Winter Wildlands Alliance Backcountry Film Festival celebrates its 10th anniversary with nine unique films to inspire winter adventurers to seek the snow less traveled. Get tickets: tinyurl.com/BCFF2015
JAN. 22—BCEP INFO NIGHT
Come learn all about the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program. Attendance is highly recommended for all perspective students. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
JAN 28—MAZAMA WELCOME NIGHT
Are you a new Mazama member, or looking to join? Or, have you been around for a while and want new ways to engage? Come to a Mazama Welcome Night, where we’ll give you an overview of all of our programs, classes and activities; opportunities to get involved at every skill level; and learn some fun Mazama history trivia. Please RSVP to kati@mazamas.org. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
JAN 30—MAZAMA RESEARCH GRANT APPLICATION DEADLINE
The Mazamas Research Committee is now accepting proposals for research projects related to mountain environments in the Pacific Northwest and climbing safety topics. Mazama members and their academic contacts can get full grant guideline and deadline information from the Research Grant webpage and links: mazamas.org/ resources/research-grants-all-grant-application-info/. Application Deadline: Jan. 30.
JULY 31—GIRLS ON ICE APPLICATION DEADLINE
Girls on Ice is a unique, FREE, wilderness science education program for high school girls that takes place in the North Cascades in Washington state and on a glacier in Alaska. Each year a team of 9 teenage girls and 3 instructors spend 12 days exploring and learning about mountain glaciers and the alpine landscape through scientific field studies with professional glaciologists, ecologists, mountain guides, and artists. Application deadline: Jan. 31. To be eligible, girls must be at least 16 years old Cover: Steve Marston on by June 19, and no older than 18 on July Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades, 24. For more information and to apply check Washington. Photo: Al Papesh. out the website, http://girlsonice.org/.
FEATURES
Cookies from a Biochemist, p. 6 Nut Butters, p. 7 The Value of Assessment, p. 9 Single Goal-Dual Approaches, p. 10 Doing More with Less, p. 12 What Do Mountaineers Eat?, p. 13 Mazamas in DC, p. 14 CISM Team in Nepal, p. 16 OSU Student Receives 16 Peak Award, p. 24
MONTHLY COLUMNS
Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Evening Travel Programs, p. 15 Classics, p. 18 Mazama Families, p. 19 20s & 30s, p. 20 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 21 Outings, 22 Time Warp, p. 25 Membership Report, p. 27 Trail Trips Info, p. 28 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30
Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@ mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT
Goals & Resolutions What Will Your Challenge Be in 2015?
Back in November the Mazamas got some great press thanks to reporter and Mazama member Terry Richard. Mr. Richard wrote a multi-page spread in the Sunday Oregonian covering the upcoming Portland Alpine Festival and also our keynote speaker, world renowned mountaineer, John Roskelley. We received several notes of positive feedback on this article and not a few comments about his statement that “the alpine festival necessarily has a hard edge to it, since hard is what the Mazamas do.” Frankly, we were a little amused by this as not many of us think that the climbing, hiking or skiing we do is particularly difficult. But from the broader community perspective of The Oregonian this is certainly true. For most people, mountain climbing is simply a dream or fantasy, far too “edgy” a sport for serious consideration. At the Mazamas, most of our programs focus on various forms of alpine recreation: hiking, skiing, rock climbing and mountain climbing. We teach introductory climbing classes and help beginners in their first few years of mountaineering as they ascend the classic routes up the notable summits of the Cascades. We do it all in service to the community through our mission of promoting mountaineering, and because we love to help others achieve their goals. As we embark on a new year, many of us are already setting goals and resolutions for 2015. For most of us, a particular trip, outing, route or mountain is already at the top of our goal list. But why set ambitious goals? Why a mountain!? When I find myself asking this question, I think back to President Kennedy’s 1962 speech at Rice University where he explained why America should go to the moon. He pointed out, that ambitious goals serve to “organize and measure the best of our energies and skills.”
... but why, some say, the moon? Why If you’re still deciding on your goals for choose this as our goal? And they may 2015, I challenge well ask why climb the highest mountain? […] We you to set at least choose to go to the moon in this decade and one goal that’s do the other things, not because they are easy, just a bit out of but because they are hard, because that goal reach. As Kennedy explained, will serve to organize and measure the best of ambitious goals our energies and skills, because that challenge serve us by is one that we are willing to accept, one we are helping us focus unwilling to postpone, and one which we intend our energy and also by forcing us to win ... President John F. Kennedy, 1962 to measure our progress. skills and form the bonds of friendship that Once we’ve set our goals, the next step is last a lifetime. to determine how we will prepare to achieve Ultimately, training and goal setting are our goals. Fittingly, this issue of the Mazama about self-improvement. By setting goals Bulletin is about training and nutrition; the and training plans, we are working with fundamentals required to achieve our goals the clear intention of becoming better than and make our dreams a reality. Mazama we used to be. As you plan your training programs are all fundamentally training program for 2015, I encourage you to train programs. They teach independence and with the Mazamas and to help others learn empower our members to realize their and grow as you help yourself achieve your goals and dreams. Mazama programs also goals. And while you’re at it, keep in mind offer many ways to integrate your personal that we don’t set big goals and train for them training with volunteer opportunities. By because it’s easy, we do it because, as Terry going hiking, skiing, taking or assisting Richard said, “hard is what the Mazamas with a class, you can help yourself while do.” helping others. Many of our members choose annually to assist with our basic climbing education program, not only to help new climbers, but also to get in shape themselves! Lee Davis As I have often said, success at Executive Director the Mazamas is rooted in individual achievement. We know our programs have been successful when people who started playing in the mountains through our programs are still at it decades later. By engaging in mountaineering together, our members face challenge and adversity, overcome fear, develop their leadership
JANUARY 2015 3
Letter from the Editor New Year, New Look— Add Your Voice to the Bulletin by Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Marketing & Publications Manager As you read through the Bulletin this month you may notice some changes. We’ve made some subtle behind-thescenes updates (with technical names like leading and kerning) that we hope make this issue easier to read. There are new headers and icons to help you quickly figure out how you can get involved with Mazamas and what articles you are most interested in reading. Along with those design updates, we’ve added author bios and pictures to some of our feature articles so you can get to know the Bulletin contributors. This month we have several features from Mazama members who have expertise in the field of
nutrition, training, and exercise science— all things that are extremely important to Mazamas trying to stay healthy and fit for their next big objective! We would love for you to be a contributor to upcoming issues. The February issue will focus on ice climbing. Have you climbed in Ouray, Cody, or Bozeman? Did you go to any of the ice festivals? If you are interested in sharing stories or pictures, get in touch with us at mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. We always welcome you to submit general climbing, hiking, and skiing articles and photos, or general photos of you and your Mazama friends. We hope to hear from you soon! ▶▶ Submit content to mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Stay connected with Mazamas on Facebook. Like our page today: facebook. com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. The publication is in full color and is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ You can download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ You can advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl. com/MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Read interesting Mazama stories, and relevant information from around the web on the Mazama blog. Mazamas.blogspot.com
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES BY KATI MAYFIELD • VOLUNTEER MANAGER • KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG
Trail Tenders Wanted
Mountaineering First Aid Skill Checkers
Jan. 15
Join the conversation to brainstorm how to revitalize the Trail Tending program at the Mazamas, and how we should pursue stewardship activities in general. We’ll next meet at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on Thursday, Jan. 15. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, for more info.
Hosts for Winter Family Day at the Mazama Lodge Friday, Jan. 30
The Lodge will host its annual Winter Family Day from noon until 8 p.m. and needs hosts to help us make this event a success. Will need 2–3 folks to be Greeters and help direct visitors around the lodge, also to keep the fire going and help keep the lodge in order during the day. Please contact Lodge Manager Charles Barker, Mazama.lodge@mazamas.org, to help out. And, if your family is interested in attending, check out the Mazama Families page on the website for more details.
Feb/March 2015
For the past year, a new core group of First Aid Committee members have been working hard to make first aid fun again! We had a great fall MFA class and winter recert class, and we’re excited about the upcoming spring class. But we need Skill Checkers to make it happen! Whether you’ve just taken the class this past November or you’ve been a long time volunteer who we haven’t gotten to know yet, if you are currently MFA certified we’d love your help! Classes are February 10, 12, 19, 24 and March 5 from 6:30-9:30pm at the MMC, and the weekend session is March 7-8 at the Mazama Lodge. Contact Kim Edger at kimberlyedger@ gmail.com if you can help with any or all of the modules, the weekend or both.
Youth Outreach Climb Instructors Feb-May 2015
The Mazamas has begun offering a Learn to Belay class to community youth through partners like Friends of the Children, Betties360 and Adelante Mujeres. We are looking for
volunteers to assist with and instruct the classes. Please contact Kati Mayfield (kati@ mazamas.org) if you are interested and available one or more of the following dates: Feb. 6, March 6, April 24 & 25, May 22.
Front Desk Volunteers Monday afternoons or Wednesday mornings
Front desk Office Volunteers are integral to operations of the MMC. They conduct a large portion of the daily business including: responding to queries, processing applications and payments and maintaining databases. Volunteers should be confident with basic software and webbased applications; and should have strong attention to detail and great customer service skills. Contact kati@mazamas.org if interested.
Outreach Ongoing
Do you enjoy attending events and meeting new people? Do you have experience tabling? Do you LOVE the Mazamas? Then we need you to join our Outreach Team. The Outreach Team members are on call to represent the Mazamas at
mountaineering and outdoor industry events around the community. You will receive training and materials on how to pitch the Mazamas, and can select to attend the events that interest you and suit your schedule. Contact Outreach Committee Chair Gary Ballou, outreach@mazamas.org, to sign up or learn more.
Hike Leaders Ongoing
Did you know that Mazama hike leader volunteers lead over 900 trail activities each year? Not only is the number impressive, but so is the variety of trail activities offered, and the diversity of participants. There are 4 groups in the Mazamas that lead hikes – Trail Trips, 20s&30s Mazamas, Families and Classics – and the qualifications to lead are virtually the same for all! If you enjoy hiking and think you might like to introduce others to the beauty of our trails, consider becoming a hike leader. Contact Kati Mayfield for more information, kati@mazamas.org.
Rehabilitation and Prevention of Rock Climbing, Mountaineering & Hiking Injuries Lynne Pedersen, DPT, Mazama Member Since 2006 JANUARY 2015 5
NUTRITION
Cookies from a Biochemist The link between sugar and bonking. by Pam Monheimer I’ve been a Mazama for two years and had the pleasure of completing BCEP in 2013. I’ve been a life-long hiker and enjoy the occasional summit. I operate a real estate company as a day job, but my collegiate field of study was nutrition and biochemistry and those subjects have remained passions. I’ve always been curious about how food affects athletic performance. Like many, I’m constantly frustrated by “research” telling me what’s good for me, and what to avoid. Thankfully, I never gave up eggs and have been a skeptic (or cynic) ever since we were told that whopper about one of nature’s perfect foods. I’ve avoided sugar and processed foods for years. It wasn’t until a difficult climb in soft snow, with 6,000 feet of elevation, post-holing and 40 mph wind gusts, that I bonked. I was arguing with the climb leader about quitting the climb; I was so tired and the group was going too fast. I wanted to return to my car. The leader was not impressed. I finally listened to our assistant and ate my first Shot Block(s). They worked. I guess Paul Steger and Eric Hoem knew what they were talking about in BCEP, when teaching us we needed to eat regularly and that sugar and carbs “were not the enemy.” Since that bonking, I’ve not gone for a hike or climb without lots of snacks, while still trying to be healthy and practical. When I joined the Publications Committee and the opportunity to write a column on best foods for hiking/climbing arose, I pounced on the opportunity. I’m still deciding what it should include. I have asked dozens of Mazama hikers and climbers what would be of most interest. Most liked the idea of a food column, requested recipes and were curious to know what others liked to eat. My initial thought was to include some interesting articles, links to relevant research and a recipe/snack idea. Here’s my own cookie creation. It’s seed-heavy, but the good quality chocolate makes them AWESOME, and they are guaranteed to keep you regular on the trail. Whenever I bring these to share on hikes and climbs I’m asked for the recipe. Until now it was my secret.
DOES HIKING CAUSE WEIGHT GAIN? by Pam Monheimer I remember when I was going through BCEP hearing many of my peers ask “how is it possible that I gained weight since I started hiking?” I too packed on a few pounds and was told by many, “it must be added muscle”. True, muscle is denser than fat, but I wasn’t buying it. Yes my quads were bulging, but so was my tummy. Sadly, taking a 10-mile hike with 3,000 feet of elevation gain, carrying a 20-pound backpack burned only about 1,100 calories on my 114-pound frame. Thanks to eating two additional peanut butter sandwiches, a protein bar , a baggie full of mixed nuts, dried cherries, and chocolate chips, and a few healthy cookies, I consumed at least 1,500 extra calories on top of my typical 2,000–2,500 daily allotment for my activity level. Hmmm ... if I kept this up I’d need larger pants! Luckily I figured out how do keep weight steady. I found the following article online while researching this topic, cduane.net/WhyHikersGetFat.html. I hope you enjoy it too. 6 MAZAMA BULLETIN
Originally from Chicago, Pam Monheimer has lived in Los Angeles, Paris France, Mykonos, Greece, and finally found heaven on earth; aka Portland, in 1993. She has a BS in biochemistry/nutrition and business. Pam continues to be active in current nutrition research, and motivates friends and clients in nutrition and fitness. She hikes 25–60 miles a week, year-round.
PAM’S LOADED COOKIES These cookies evolved, because I love chocolate chip cookies but wanted to add some nutritional value, protein, fiber and healthy fats. INGREDIENTS 2 eggs 1 cup butter (or coconut oil) 2 tsp vanilla ½ cup white sugar ½ cup brown sugar 1 cup whole wheat or white flour ¼ cup flax meal ½ cup coconut flour ½ cup almond flour ¼ cup flax meal 1 tsp salt 2 tsp baking soda 1 cup chopped nuts (any kind you like or a mix) ½ cup seeds (sunflower, pumpkin, chia or a mix) 1 cup quality chocolate chips ½ cup dried sour cherries or cranberries DIRECTIONS ▶▶ Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). ▶▶ Cream together the butter, white sugar, and brown sugar until smooth. Beat in the eggs one at a time, then stir in the vanilla. Mix all flours, baking soda and flax meal well. Add chocolate chips, nuts, seeds and dried fruit. Drop by large spoonfuls (I use a small cookie scoop) onto ungreased pans. ▶▶ Bake for about 10-15 minutes (depending on size and doneness preference) in the preheated oven, or until edges are nicely browned.
I welcome all thoughts, comments and favorite recipes. Bon Appetit and Happy Trails!
Nut Butters
Step Away from the Skippy by Pam Monheimer Nut butters and powdered peanut butter have become popular with hikers and climbers due to their dense nutritional value. Thankfully, your options in the nut butter world are vast and are no longer limited to the likes of JIF and Skippy. We’ve also moved past the days of buying nut butters solely in jars. They come in convenient to-go pouches, ranging from .8 oz to 4.5 oz., making it easy to throw in your pack and take with you on the trail. In the Portland area you can choose from three local companies producing nut butters. Bogg’s Trail Butter is based on Portland and has three flavors to choose from (all are available at the MMC). Pocket Fuels operates out of Hood River, has seven unique flavors, and can be found at REI and other local shops. Wild Friends nut butters, started by two University of Oregon grads, is based in Tualatin and has flavors of peanut butter, almond butter, and sunflower butter to choose from. And those are just your local options! In researching what might be of interest to Mazama members here are links to several reviews. We will review nut products from your recommendations and include recipes in future issues. Please send your comments and favorites to me at pmonheim@gmail.com. Listed below is a recipe to make your own nut butter, Amazon.com’s most popular nut butters, and links to a few blogs more specific to athletes and nutritional values. 1. Bell Plantation PB2: Powdered Peanut Butter 2. Zinke Orchards Creamy Almond Butter 3. SunButter Natural Sunflower Seed Spread 4. Jif Extra Creamy Peanut Butter 5. Jif Extra Crunchy Peanut Butter 6. Wowbutter Creamy 7. Peanut Butter & Co. Peanut Butter, Dark Chocolate Dreams 8. Artisana Raw Organic Cashew Butter 9. Barney Butter Smooth Almond Butter 10. Trader Joe’s Speculoos Cookie Butter BLOG LINKS ▶▶ tasty-yummies. com/2014/03/18/howto-make-homemade-nutbutters/ ▶▶ www.katheats.com/top-10favorite-nut-butters ▶▶ everydayhealth.com/dietand-nutrition-pictures/ the-best-and-worst-nutbutters.aspx#02 ▶▶ thefitbaldman.com/nutbutter-reviews.html
Tim Scott leads a team on Mt. Hood. Photo: Al Papesh
Winter Climbing with Mazamas The winter climb sseason at Mazamas runs from December–April. You can find the winter climb schedule and details about winter climb procedures at: mazamas.org/activities-events/ winter-climb-schedule/ You’ll find two types of entries on the climb schedule: ▶▶ A planned climb ▶▶ A scheduled climb PLANNED CLIMBS There is a planned month for the climb. The climb leader is planning to lead the climb during the month and will be watching the weather to find an optimal time to schedule the climb. SCHEDULED CLIMBS These climbs have dates listed.
For Planned Climbs, email or call the climb leader and let them know you are interested in the climb. Then wait for an email or call from the climb leader indicating the climb has been scheduled. For Scheduled Climbs, mail a climb card to the climb leader. Happy Climbing! JANUARY 2015 7
CLIMB FOR GOOD. CLIMB FOR FREE.
Professionally guided climbs covered by your fundraising
2015 Climb Dates: Mt. Rainier July 15–18, July 30–August 2 Mt. Hood June 25–26 Mt. Adams August 5–6 For More Info Contact: Joe Dann, Event Manager Climb@lungmtpacific.org 206.512.3281 Sponsored By:
Photo courtesy of Kenneth Garrison
climbforcleanair.com
TRAINING
The Value of Assessment Functional movement screening assesment— prevent injury and maximize your training. by Heidi Medema
A
s a personal trainer my job is to help people: help them get fit, help them reach their goals, help them sweat. But one part of the job description that is frequently overlooked by the public, and unfortunately all too often by fitness professionals themselves, is injury prevention. The fitness industry is riddled with people looking for quick fixes for the wrong problems. Sadly, there are all too many trainers willing to sell their brand of “miracles”. So how do you find a good trainer, one that will put your long term health before the short term gratification of instant results? One of the signs to look for in a good trainer is the utilization of a proper initial fitness assessment, coupled with a back to basics approach. A highly acclaimed and successful assessment is the Functional Movement Screen (FMS) developed by Gary Cook, MSPT, OCS, and CSCS. Cook recognized the industry wide need for, as he said, a “standard screen for risk factors associated with movement-based activities.” The FMS utilizes 7 basic exercises that trainers grade based on quality of movement. What does an assessment tell us? A lot! But let’s break it down. An assessment’s main purpose is to identify problems ranging from acute pain to limitations to muscular imbalances. These are problems I guarantee we all have experienced at some point. A secondary, but useful purpose of the FMS, is to provide a benchmark for future progress. If acute pain is experienced during an assessment your trainer should ask you to stop and seek the advice of a medical professional. Pain is a symptom that must be dealt with by someone who has the necessary expertise, which personal trainers do not have. The FMS system allows trainers to identify limitations in movement, and, more importantly, gives us clues as to the root cause of those limitations. Frequently, restrictions in movement are caused by an imbalance between mobility and stability. When these two seemingly opposing forces are out of balance problems ensue. Every movement, every joint, and every muscle must be in balance in order to function properly. According to Cook, mobility problems often stem from improper movement, injury, stress, and even poor posture. A proper assessment helps trainers identify such problems.
Muscular imbalance is another problem frequently seen in athletes and non-athletes alike. A particularly high risk group is runners. Since running relies heavily on a few main muscles, it is easy for those muscles to become so strong they overpower other muscles, effectively creating a muscular imbalance. This must be rectified by exercises focused on the IT band and other stabilizer muscles; otherwise the power muscles will stress the surrounding joints, ligaments, and muscles. A movement screen makes these problematic areas apparent. I am not telling you about all these problems so that you worry. Instead, I want you to finish this article feeling more prepared and ready to delve into the wonderful world of fitness. Although they do not directly reduce risk of injury, movement screens are valuable tools that allow trainers to predict and thus prevent injury by making the needed adjustments to your workout routine. A proper assessment will help your trainer make the best decisions for you. Once identified, symptomatic movement patterns have to be reconstructed with correct form, through the structured application of corrective exercises. The key lies in the individualized nature of the program, which reflects the individual nature of humans. Even two people with the same problem will require different solutions. Why does this information matter to you? Imagine your body was a house. Would you start building the walls before laying the foundation? No. So why would you do that to your body? Basic movement patterns are the foundation of all motion, ranging from picking up a grocery bag to summiting a peak. If you try to build on a shaky foundation, your house is going to fall down and you’ll wind up injured. Sometimes it can take years for these injuries to occur, but after enough repetitions of an incorrect movement something is going to give. As Gary Cook said, “Training poor movement patterns reinforces poor quality and creates greater risk of injury.” In an industry fueled by instant results and “beautiful” bodies, it can be hard to slow it down and go back to basics. But fitness, true fitness, the kind that lasts for a lifetime, doesn’t come from quick fixes and instant results. It takes time to do it right. But I promise the time you spend on a proper fitness assessment is invaluable. Let me leave you with a quote from Hippocrates, one that we as outdoor enthusiasts know to be true, “Motion is life.”
A California native, Heidi Medema now thrives on the delicious food, coffee, and beer of the great PNW. After graduating with a B.S. in Health and Human Kinetics, she managed a local gym before striking out on her own and starting Get Outdoors Fitness. In between training sessions and shifts at the Mountain Shop she climbs, skis, bikes, and backpacks with her dog, Gradie.
JANUARY 2015 9
BOOK REVIEW
Single Goal— Dual Approaches Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier: Beyond the Basics by Michael Layton, D.C. & Training for Climbing, by Eric J. Horst by Barry Maletzky
B
oth Michael Layton’s exposition on training for healthy climbing and Eric Horst’s outline of a comprehensive training program for stronger climbing share the same goal: helping to advance the average climber’s abilities to higher levels of success. Both describe programs of strength and flexibility training beginning with simpler exercises and progressing to more complicated routines. However, each author differs in the manner of reaching a climber’s ultimate goals and in the fashion in which their programs are described and illustrated. I started with Layton’s text as he is a wellknown Northwest climber and indeed, many of the photos are of Northwest mountainous terrain. However, his descriptions of the various stretches and exercises are often hazy and the accompanying photos don’t always relate to the exact poses and activities in the near-by text. Being a chiropractor, he devotes a good deal of his book to recovery from injuries but he does outline an overall training program. If followed exactly, however, it would require a good deal more time than the average Mazama climber, even those comfortable on mid- to higher-level 5th class rock, could 10 MAZAMA BULLETIN
devote without abandoning work and family obligations, and thus probably angering fellow employees or spouses. However, many of his proposed workouts have the advantage of not requiring excessive gym or climbing wall equipment. In contrast, Horst’s proposals are a bit more modest and achievable by many nonprofessional climbers although they do require the use of a good deal of specialized equipment, such as campus and hang boards and rings, as well as much time spent at the gym. Nonetheless, Horst’s text is the clearer of the two, easier to read, more free of technical jargon, and contains photos that demonstrate more exactly the exercises described. Layton’s text is hurt by its tiny font (6?) and use of terms perhaps familiar to exercise aficionados but probably not to the average climber: “prone plank, maximum recruit and hamstring curls” are tossed into the text without explanation or depiction. At times, what begins as a vivid description of a procedure merges into a hazy outline of stretches and exercises without adequate explanation. In addition, Layton confuses the text with many unnecessary charts and pseudoscientific graphs which only muddy the intent to clearly demonstrate the exercises or stretches he proposes. Inexplicably, he also devotes the last third of his book to disconnected bits of climbing advice, such as how to retrieve a stuck rappel rope, bolting techniques and the like. This ending seems jarringly out of place in a book supposedly devoted to strength training.
Horst’s text is not without its own difficulties. The first six chapters are almost entirely devoted to the mental aspects of climbing, such as confidence, conquering fear, self-talk, “centering”, etc. Not that these issues are irrelevant, but to my mind, they occupy too much of the text and are often so vaguely worded as to be open to as many interpretations as there are readers. Nonetheless, beyond, Horst offers a much more concise and understandable program of flexibility and strength training than does Layton, though both are complex and the average weekend climber will undoubtedly need to skip a number of steps in order to lead a sane life away from the boulders and climbing walls Horst wants us to frequent almost daily. Both texts do share common-sense advice, however, that even the A through C or D Mazama climber can gainfully employ. Both emphasize that it is not in the climber’s best interest to bulk up, Schwarzenegger-style, with weight training in the gym; balance, technique and flexibility trump absolute muscle strength. Both also emphasize the need for warm-up and cool-down periods as well as total rest days in order to avoid injury. Both also provide excellent chapters on nutrition, although much of the science they cite for supplements is at best controversial or commercially-sponsored. Horst gains points for adding in specific
In sum, both books could form a base for improving strength and flexibility for the average rock climber, though I fault both for ignoring snow and ice climbing. training advice for female and junior athletes. While Layton, the chiropractor, focuses more on treatment of injuries, Horst also devotes time to this topic and stresses a bit more the prevention of injuries in the first place. Both note an increase in climbing-related afflictions, particularly of the fingers, which may stem from the attempts to advance beyond the possible with overhanging climbing walls, extended campus board hangs and attempts to always go one step further – 5.16 anyone? In sum, both books could form a base for improving strength and flexibility for the average rock climber, though I fault both for ignoring snow and ice climbing. Both books emphasize strength training for rock climbing and relatively ignore the endurance and aerobic workouts alpine climbing requires. But Layton’s use of graphs which only prove his own theories, his hazy photos and lack of descriptions, his tiny font, and his baffling and extensive ending in which he offers unconnected bits of climbing and gear advice, all contribute to my
recommendation of Horst’s more explicit text. Despite Horst’s overly-complex regimen and reliance on gear (most weekend climbers would get into trouble with partners for buying or building—which Horst prefers—so much gear), his workouts fit better into the schemes of everyday life most of us need to pursue. The highly pseudo-scientific Layton approach, with its required journaling, obsessive pursuit of following graphic progress, and even need to mathematically analyze your advances, seems to me unrealistic compared to Horst’s more relaxed recognition that not every climber aims to be a Chris Sharma, Lynn Hill, or John Bachar. ▶▶ Michael A. Layton. Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier: Beyond the Basics. Mazama Library number 613.7.L45 ▶▶ Eric J. Horst. Training for Climbing. Mazama Library number 796.5.H867
JANUARY 2015 11
TRAINING
Doing More with Less Uber Basic Functional Training without the Gym by Willie McBride
F
unctional training means equipping your body to preform properly to live life and do whichever activities you choose, without pain. It boils down to three basic things: 1) doing exercises that work your entire posterior side to “open the body” from its primarily forwardly-crunched form, 2) keeping key areas strong yet fully mobile, like shoulders and hips, and 3) developing a strong core for all else to hinge upon. Luckily, working on these main components of proper functional health can be done easily and without any equipment, so you have no excuse not to do them. Sorry ‘bout that. Most people sit and work at a computer all day. Even if you don’t pretty much everything we all do is in front of us, meaning we’re always reaching forward, primarily using our pectorals that easily over tighten. Over-tightened pecs, in turn, shut off many of the muscles in our upper back and shoulders and contribute to the dreaded “upper cross syndrome”, a common imbalance that results in back and neck pain and a pronounced forward hunch. One of the easy ways to combat this is to regularly stretch out your shoulders and chest by joining your arms behind your back and raising them up toward the sky. Shoulders so easily over tighten, especially being a place where many hold their stress and tension, that it’s essential 12 MAZAMA BULLETIN
to loosen, loosen, loosen! Shake your arms out, do big arm circles like you’re pitching a softball game (though start easy), and swing your relaxed arms in vigorous “backslappers” ala Michael Phelps. Of course you’ll want to work on the muscles in your upper back too— your lats and traps and posterior deltoids and so on—by doing exercises like the “flying squirrel”, in which you lay face down with your arms outstretched in front of you and then lift all your limbs up into the air as high as you can and hold for a few seconds. Then lower down to the ground and repeat. These are simple and effective and there’s always floor space or the ground to be found. The worst culprit of overtightening in our lower bodies is the ‘ol hip flexor so it’s important to to keep those loosened up too. When the hip flexors get tight they shut off our glorious glutes and abs and lock up the hips—the “lower cross syndrome”—and further send our bodies into a tizzy. Suddenly a Sunday bike ride or some work in the garden is a painfilled proposition. Not ok. We must stretch out those hip flexors, get into a lunge position and crank ‘em open. Hips are designed to have a huge range of motion so don’t be afraid to get in there and do that pigeon-pose with abandon. Stretch, whenever you can, especially that entire hip/ pelvic area and the shoulders. It’s easy and free and your body will thank you. Working your glutes is key to counteracting the tendencies of the hip flexors. Basic, equipmentless essentials like squats, lunges, bridges will be the ticket here. Then there’s the core, the inescapable core. If you stop and think, it should be obvious (and sometimes literally painfully) that
a strong core is hugely important. The name pretty much sums it up—“core”—the center of our physical form, the governing mass that all else depends upon. It doesn’t matter if your legs and arms have won body sculpting awards, if your insides are mush you’re going to get hurt. Once again, simple is the trick; just 5 letters…P-L-A-N-K. Oh yes, sometimes that’s all you really need. Regular plank, side plank, reverse/upward facing plank. Do “the rotisserie”, I call it, and try all four sides. Start easy(ish), then build up and add time. Your body, and mind, will be stronger, guaranteed. When it gets tough, remember it’s all in your head and that this year a Chinese police officer held the position for 4 hours and 26 minutes. For real. There are all sorts of ways to work out these days, every type of class and machine and Meetup group, though sometimes the simplest activities are the most effective for physical health. It’s easy to skip the gym or the group run when life gets hectic and other demands call so it’s even more important to have quick, equipment-less exercises in your
bag of tricks. Do them during work, bust out plank in the break room, or lunge it out and crank open the shoulders while watching Breaking Bad. Remember, as in much of life, it’s the details that matter most.
Willie McBride is a Portland-based ski mountaineer, ultra runner, and writer. He is the founder and co-owner/coach/ trainer at Animal Athletics with Yassine Diboun, is a Mazama member, and is currently training for his second 200 mile mountain foot race.
Your “gym” can be anywhere. The trails, the hills, a city park bench.
NUTRITION
What Do Mountaineers Eat? Mazama Climb Leaders’ Diets Pre- and Post-Climb by Janet Peterson, DrPH, FACSM, WEMT
N
utrition for mountaineers is a fascinating and complex topic. Because of human variability, making specific nutrition recommendations is difficult. However, there are some general guidelines intended to help a diet that will maximize performance. Mountaineering is an endurance sport requiring relatively high energy expenditure. Current recommendations suggest that endurance athletes, such as mountaineers, consume a majority (55-75 percent) of their calories in the form of carbohydrates, less than 30 percent of calories from fat and the rest from high quality protein. The current macronutrient distribution recommendation for mountaineers is not different from that of most endurance athletes. But, what do mountaineers really eat when they climb? To answer that question, a research team of Linfield College students asked 12 Mazama climb leaders to log everything they ate and drank the day before, the days during and the day after each climb over an entire season (March to October). Data was collected for a total of 39 climbs ranging from one day scrambles up South Sister to a 3-day Mt. Stuart ascent. The climbers diligently recorded their
food and drink in small write-inthe-rain diaries provided for the study. At the end of the season, the diaries were collected and the data was entered into a robust nutrition analysis program to determine the daily nutritional composition. We looked at the overall calorie intake and macronutrient distribution for the day preceding a climb, the days of the climb were averaged, and the day following the climb. We also compared the differences in calorie intake and macronutrient distribution across difficulty of climbs as assessed using the Mazamas climb difficulty rating system (A-E). The data was rather interesting. As expected, the climbers ate more calories on the days of their climbs compared to pre and post days. The macronutrient make-up of the excess calories on the climb days came mostly from an increase intake from fat and then carbohydrate. Interestingly, the climbers consumed significantly less protein during their climb days (mean = 14 percent vs. 17 percent both pre and post climb). This data is consistent with the literature on professional mountaineers. It is well known that protein is neither digested nor absorbed readily from the gut during intense physical activity and at higher elevations. In addition, fresh, tasty sources of protein are difficult to carry on longer climbs. Overall, the climbers tended to consume more calories on the day after their climbs as compared to the day before. When evaluating the macronutrient consumption based on climb difficulty, we found more interesting results. There was no significant increase in overall calorie consumption as the climb difficulty increased.
On climbs of increasing difficulty (graded C, D and E) the percent total daily intake from carbohydrates increased while the percent of calories from protein decreased with the lowest protein consumption reported during the hardest climbs. This drop in protein consumption with longer and more strenuous climbs is consistent with other studies. The most troubling finding was the significant increase in calories from fat during the post climb meal and during the day after a climb, particularly for the A and B climbs. We concluded that the Mazamas lead climbers consumed overall calories and macronutrients consistent with other studies before and during a climb. However, there was a trend for consuming high percentage of fat following climbs, particularly for the climbs with a lower difficulty rating. This practice of consuming high fat meals following a climb and the subsequent recovery day may be counterproductive towards overall health and fitness. Current recommendations for recovery from endurance events targets high quality carbohydrates and proteins in combination with a moderate intake of healthy fats. The data collected for this study provides the basis for a larger study with a greater number of climbers, and climbs of greater length and difficulty. We would like to provide mountaineers with evidence based recommendations for nutritional intake. The Linfield College research team would like to thank the Mazamas for participating in this study. I would specifically like to thank two Linfield students who worked tirelessly on this data collection and analysis: Don Defrang and Blake Densley.
Janet Peterson is an associate professor of health and human performance at Linfield College and a wilderness medicine instructor for Remote Medical International. She has a doctorate in preventive care and masters in exercise physiology as well as extensive education in nutrition and dietetics. Janet has been involved with the Mazamas for over 10 years. She is an avid outdoors enthusiast with a passion for climbing, hiking and traveling on two wheels. You can follow her blog at jjpeterberger. wordpress.org.
JANUARY 2015 13
ADVOCACY
Mazamas in DC Outdoor Alliance Advocacy Summit 2014
by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Communications Manager
T
his year marks the beginning of a three-year strategic plan for the Mazamas. Its objectives are exciting and simple to understand: Expand, Enhance and Explore. But its goals and strategies make things a bit more complicated. For example, we have decided to expand our stewardship and advocacy efforts in order to protect the mountains, our people, and our stories. To do so, we plan to “create a mission-based policy agenda and lead with outreach and advocacy.” Also, we are going to “lead and promote direct stewardship efforts in the Pacific Northwest.” The first part of our strategy is already underway through the efforts of the Conservation and Outreach Committees. And the second part is slowly taking shape with a little help from our friends.
To get a foothold in this process, last month I joined more than 25 climbers, paddlers, mountain bikers, hikers and skiers at the Outdoor Alliance Advocacy Summit in Washington, D.C. As representatives of outdoor recreation organizations from five Western states, we gathered to discuss regional and national recreation and conservation issues. The pinnacle of the event was a chance to meet with members of Congress to ask for support in our efforts. I was honored to represent the Mazamas. The idea of a human-powered recreation summit is the product of years of coalition 14 MAZAMA BULLETIN
building by members of the Outdoor Alliance which include American Whitewater, Access Fund, American Canoe Association, International Mountain Bicycling Association and Winter Wildlands Alliance. The culmination of collaboration was also made possible by efforts from the Mazamas, and Mountaineers who recently decided to officially join OA. The summit provided a chance to discuss current federal lands policies with our partners in Washington, Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado. We also spent a day in advocacy training which included stories and feedback from influential conservation leaders from the Wilderness Society, the Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership, Defenders of Wildlife, the National Parks Conservation Association and the Outdoor Industry Association. The pinnacle event was a day spent on Capitol Hill. As a representative of the Mazamas and a Regional Coordinator for the Access Fund, I joined Louis Geltman (OA Policy Analyst, Hood River), Sam Drevo (Northwest River Guides, PDX and Oregon City), and Tom Archer (NW Trails Alliance) in meeting with our Oregon Congressional delegation. We not only met with senior Senate staffers but we had a chance to sit down with Representative Suzanne Bonamici and Representative Kurt Schrader. In each meeting we voiced the concerns of many of our members. We talked about efforts to get young people outdoors and the need to increase funding for such programs. The stewardship of our national forest trails system was another hot topic. We all agreed that federal recreation budgets take a big hit from wildfires. Unfortunately, legislation to change wildfire funding did not pass in the last Congress.
We also discussed ever-increasing recreation fees and barriers for nonprofits when navigating the special use permit system. Ultimately, we were encouraged to hear that our Senators and Representatives were willing and able to support our efforts to promote and protect the humanpowered recreation experience, especially mountaineering and rock climbing. Last year saw a healthy amount of public lands protection attached to the National Defense Authorization Act. But there is also a move to rollback those efforts and little pressure to make recreation a focus on our public lands. In fact, the Resolution Copper mine takeover of public and tribal lands in Arizona was huge loss of a climbing area. This should be a call to action for all climbers, paddlers, mountain bikers, hikers and backcountry skiers. Outdoor Alliance is moving forward with some great efforts that align perfectly to our mission. As always, it’s up to us to keep the momentum and volunteer work sustainable and forward thinking so we can continue to get more people into the mountains and protecting those sacred places. For more information about Mazamas and the Outdoor Alliance, please contact Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas. Adam is the Mazamas Stewardship & Communication Manager. He supports stewardship events and education and works to keep climbers engaged on land management issues. He is a U.S. Coast Guard veteran and currently working on a Masters in Public Administration.
Read more from Adam on the Mazama Blog—mazamas.blogspot.com
EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS
Trek, Climb, and Hike— without leaving Portland Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary and Gail O’Neill.
TREKKING & TOURING HIGH BHUTAN (LAND OF GROSS NATIONAL HAPPINESS) January 7
Don Messerschmidt and Rusty Brennan-Dubbs take us to Bhutan, an alluring attraction for out-of-the-way Himalayan excursions, including high altitude treks and cross-country tours, punctuated by amazing wildlife, visits to ancient Buddhist monasteries and temples; see weavers, traditional farm and livestock based cultures, yaks and big Tibetan mastiff dogs.
MEXICO VOLCANOES: CLIMBING & CULTURE January 14
In December 2013 Mike Rudy, Mike Pennington and four other climbers from the Chemeketans in Salem set out to tackle two high volcanoes in Mexico (La Malinche 14,640’ & Pico de Orizaba 18,490’). In the end it was much more than just a climbing trip. Come hear their stories of climbing with hundreds of locals during the Festival de Guadalupe on La Malinche and tackling Pico de Orizaba, the 3rd highest peak in North America.
DAY HIKING WASHINGTON’S CASCADES January 21
Come join professional photographer Alan L. Bauer as he presents the adventure and beauty of the Washington Cascades covered in his work on the Day Hiking series published by The Mountaineers Books, with a focus on areas covered in the new May 2014 release of the 2nd edition of Day Hiking-Snoqualmie Region. With the second edition now covering 135 hikes, of which 52 are new additions, many new ideas and stories are waiting to be shared. Books will be available for purchase and signing after the presentation and Q&A time.
GORILLA TREKKING IN THE CONGO & OTHER FAVORITE AFRICAN SAFARIS January 28
Republic of Congo, a vast and wild region, is home to Forest Elephant, Forest Buffalo, Leopard, Bongo, Giant Forest Hog, and Hippopotamus, Chimpanzee, Colobus monkeys, clouds of spectacular butterflies and 440 bird species alongside the greatest density of Western Lowland Gorilla in Africa. Erica Varga, owner of Acappella Safaris, shows how to best access the pristine areas of the Congo. JANUARY 2015 15
CISM Team in Nepal
Mazamas Travel to the Khumbu Region to Provide Support to Sherpas Affected by the Everest Tragedy MARINA WYNTON SAT DOWN FOR AN INTERVIEW AFTER THE CISM TRIP TO NEPAL TO SHARE HER STORY. Note: The CISM team decided to regard all “debriefings” in Nepal with the same ethics as any other. All meetings are strictly confidential and no notes are taken. This report mentions several names, but not details of each case. HOW DID THIS TRIP COME TOGETHER? Last spring Conrad Anker and Lee Davis were talking by phone about the tragic deaths of 16 Sherpa guides in the April avalanche on Mt. Everest. Conrad talked about how the families of those who died were affected: grieving from the loss of husbands, future husbands, fathers, uncles, brothers, cousins, friends. Lee mentioned that when traumatic events occur in outdoor activities Mazama members can work with the Critical Incident Stress Management team to sort through the incident and trauma that may have occurred. Conrad wondered if the Mazamas could send someone to Nepal to offer emotional support to the families. WHAT WAS THE PURPOSE/GOAL OF THIS TRIP? The purpose of the trip was to provide emotional support to families of the deceased. We were very aware that Nepalese people experience and manage grief and the loss of a loved one in a very different way than we do. In preparation we met with many local (Portland) Sherpa people several times who were invaluable in working with us to help us understand the Sherpa culture, what issues people were facing and the state of mountaineering in Nepal from the Sherpa perspective. We went to Nepal with the intent to provide an opportunity for people to tell us their stories, and to listen well and offer support in ways that would work for them. Bob Peirce, a former trekking guide in Nepal, was also very helpful to us and supportive of our efforts. WHO WAS A PART OF THE CISM TEAM? 16 MAZAMA BULLETIN
Mazama CISM team members were Katie Foehl, Drew Prochniak (licensed psychologist) and Marina Wynton. Mike Pajunas, invited by Jenni Anker to work on the Khumbu Climbing Center under construction in Phortse, also accompanied the team. Jiban Ghimire, owner of Shangri-La Nepal developed our itinerary in Nepal and was an essential component in the success of the trip and helping us through logistics. We traveled with two Nepali guides, Karki and Kami, and two porters, Depok and Lhakpha. Our guides really made the trip happen for us, taking care of all kinds of logistics, medical problems, arranging lodging, locating families, and translating. Chhongba Sherpa, a good friend of Jenni’s, acted as a translator and also helped to spread the word in the Khumbu region of our arrival and nature of our visit. Dave Morton, Alpine Ascents guide and Juniper Fund founder, also helped with preparing the families for our visits. WHEN DID THIS TRIP TAKE PLACE? We arrived in Katmandu on Oct. 25 and spent a few days there before flying on to Lukla to begin trekking on Oct 27. Mike and I returned to Katmandu on Nov. 13 and were back in Portland on Nov. 18. WHAT ROUTE DID YOU TAKE? From Katmandu we flew to Lukla, and from there we began trekking. Our route was: Lukla to Phakding to Namche Bazar to Thamo to Thame to Thamo to Khumjung to Phortse to Dingboche (Tengboche Monestary) to Pangboche to Namche Bazar to Phadking to Lukla to Katmandu. Our first meeting was in Katmandu with several family members. Chhongba Sherpa translated. We started the trek in the Khumbu from Lukla, arriving in Phakding the first day and Namche Bazar the second day. There Drew and I met with four women whose husbands died on Everest. Sherap Jangbu Sherpa, owner of the Panorama Lodge translated. The day after Mike
departed for Phortse while Katie, Drew and I went in the opposite direction to Thamo. In Thamo we met with Ang Riku the wife of the cook who died on Everest. Ang Riku runs a teahouse in Thamo and gave us a delicious meal of Sherpa stew and lemon tea. Our next stop that day was Thame. Two women traveled some miles to meet us in Thame to share their stories. We also visited the school in Thame and left crayons and toothbrushes with the teachers, and children’s books in the Magic Yeti Library. Up to this point Katie had been struggling with a cold and in Thame become so ill that we made the decision to send her back to Katmandu. Drew and I went on with one guide and one porter back through Thamo. When we arrived in Thamo, Ang Riku was holding a puja ceremony in her tea house to honor her husband. Llamas perform the all day ceremony chanting, praying, meditating, drumming and blowing horns. After lunch there, we traveled on to Khumjung, the location of an airport, hospital and a private high school. So far the weather in the Khumbu had been brilliant—sunshine, very clear and cold—with gorgeous mountain, river and valley views, and beautiful sunsets. As we descended into Khumjung the weather changed quickly to very foggy and cold. We left early the next morning for Phortse. Phortse is a very, small remote farming village with especially beautiful views of Cho Oyu, and Khumbi Yul Lha Mts. The Khumbu Climbing School is held here every year with the support of two lodges adjacent to the building site. The lodges have donated the land for the climbing school in construction. Drew left the next day to return to Katmandu and then travel to Iceland. Mike had a few more days of work on the building to complete, so I busied myself with walks around the village to the monestary, the school library, and through the yak grazing fields; doing laundry, catching up on reading and writing.
The group was now down to Mike and I and our guide, Karki and porter, Depok. Our next destination was to attend the Mani Rimdu festival at Tengboche Monastary. We spent two nights in Dingboche, a small village along a river a short walk away from the monastary. We then moved on to Pangboche where Karki, acting as translator, and I, met with two women on the back porch of our teahouse. Ama Dablam base camp is a three-hour walk from Pangboche, so we saw many trekkers coming and going. The view of Ama Dablam from Pangboche is spectacular, especially in the evening alpenglow. From Pangboche we started our return trek with stops in Namche Bazar, Phadking, Lukla and back to Katmandu. WHAT WAS THE REALITY OF THE TRIP VS. THE INTENDED PURPOSE? By the time we arrived to visit with most people, Dave Morton from The Juniper Fund had already visited. (See the Juniper Fund website for a detailed description of their work). The Juniper Fund provides monetary support to each family that will continue for the next four years. So when we arrived the families had received the first payment. We were able to work off that saying that we were friends of Dave’s and want to see how you are doing. Everyone was very thankful to have an opportunity to talk with us. And so grateful that we had traveled so far to support them. The intention was to see how we could help people and then try to do that. WHAT DID YOU TAKE AWAY FROM THIS EXPERIENCE? It’s hard to adequately describe what we took away from this experience. A few thoughts: ▶▶ The Sherpa are a strong and beautiful people. ▶▶ Tourism is quickly eroding the culture and the environment. ▶▶ As a result of the exposure to western
culture, people are giving up on an ancient way of life. ▶▶ Mountaineering in Nepal is devastating the male population and contributing to the erosion of the culture. ▶▶ The Nepali government is in extreme disarray and is not advocating for the Nepali people. On the flip side of the equation: ethical tourism, ethical mountaineering could shine a light on the issues and that this create positive changes. I think the more eyes on all these problems means more exposure of the problems and can contribute to positive changes. One of the best ways we can support the Sherpa people in the Khumbu is to support their communities, schools, monasteries and medical facilities. DO YOU FEEL THE MAZAMAS MET THE INTENDED PURPOSE OF THE TRIP? Very much. We were able to provide direct support to the all the people we intended and more. Sherpa deaths will continue. We have begun an important effort that we hope to continue and evolve as we get to know them better. One important thing to note is that many people and organizations came together to make this effort, this trip, happen. We all share a common goal to improve life for the Nepali people in the Khumbu. I’m hopeful that we will continue to work together. OVERALL, DO YOU FEEL AS THOUGH THIS TRIP WAS VALUABLE? TO WHOM? From my perspective everyone involved has benefited. We are so fortunate to be in a position to offer aide to the Sherpa. I would love to hear how each person involved would answer that question. Personally, I am so honored that I was able to sit with people and hear their stories; it was very moving. What a simple and humane thing it is to sit and listen and be present for
(from left to right): Mike standing on a rock taking pictures of the Dudh Koshi River on the return trek. Chorton (entrance gate) at Tengboche Monastary, where we attended Mani Rimdu Festival, with Ana Dablam in the distance. An elderly Sherpa woman in Lukla. Marina and Drew at the Buddha Restaurant in Mongla at 13,500 ft. Mongla is between Thamo and Khumjung. Thamserku Mt. (20,000 ft) is in the distance. Photos: Marina Wynton.
another person. This cuts across all cultural divisions. I arrived home with a deep sense of gratitude for my life, my family and friends and my freedom. And ready to get busy with figuring out what’s next.
THANK YOU! The CISM Committee and the Mazamas would like to thank the many wonderful sponsors and donors that help make this trip possible. Thanks go to: ▶▶ Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation ▶▶ Lhakpa Gelu Foundation ▶▶ CAMP ▶▶ Cassin ▶▶ Mountain Hardwear ▶▶ Base Camp Brewing Company ▶▶ Columbia Sportswear ▶▶ The Mountain Shop ▶▶ Petzl ▶▶ Sterling Rope ▶▶ Karma Cafe & Coffee Shop
Look for more information on CISM’s Nepal trip on the Mazama blog— mazamas.blogspot.com—over the next few months.
JANUARY 2015 17
CLASSIC MAZAMAS
Stay Connected with Classics With 25 years or more of Mazama membership, Classics lead a variety of yearround activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. All ages are welcome to join the fun. LEADING EVENTS IN FEBRUARY If you are interested in leading an event in February, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert at gilbertrosemarie@centurylink.net or 503762-2357, Dick Miller at 503-590-3598, or Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail.com or 503.775.1164 by Jan. 12th so they can include it in the February Bulletin.
THURSDAY, JAN. 22—STEIGERWALD LAKE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE. Charlie Feris will lead a 3½ mile walk. Meet at 9 a.m. at the MMC. Call or email Charlie Feris 503-775-2694, cferis@aol.com
THURS., FEB. 26—VISIT THE OREGON RAIL HERITAGE CENTER Visit the Oregon Rail Heritage Center just east of OMSI. Portland’s rail museum houses three steam locomotives owned by the City of Portland: Southern Pacific 4449, Spokane, Portland; and Seattle 700, and Oregon Railroad and Navigation Co. 18 MAZAMA BULLETIN
197, as well as other exhibits. Afterwards, if the weather permits, we will take a walk along the East Esplanade. Full details in the February Bulletin. Contact Hal Howard at commerce@thehowardspdx.com or 503293-1528. HOLIDAY LUNCHEON AND THE SPIRIT OF CLASSIC MAZAMAS The Annual Holiday Luncheon at MMC on December 12 was a great success. Members re-connected and visited with old friends. Members who had achieved 25 or 50 year membership this year were recognized with a pin and a letter of appreciation; this was for reaching the watershed this year. The 25/50 year pins are a new soon-to-be tradition. If you have been with Mazamas for 25+ or 50+ years, perhaps you need to be recognized. Let us know at Classic Mazamas. Classic Mazamas is committed to including any member who is interested in our activities. If you want to participate or you want your friends to participate, let us know. Mazamas is a volunteer-driven organization. We achieve wonderful things by being sensitive to each other’s needs and by helping to bring those efforts over the finish line. Some Classic Mazamas might not have access to the Bulletin because it’s too hard to read. We provide readers. For some, transportation to or from an activity might pose a special challenge. We have cars and drivers. Most of you are very open to the volunteer spirit so this is more an appeal for you to tap that resource if you need it. Please join us. Stay connected. If you are able to volunteer, please contact Kati Mayfield, Mazamas Volunteer Manager, at 503-227-2345.
SAVE THE DATES!
NORTH COAST CLASSIC HIKER GETAWAY AUGUST 10–14 2015 Five days of relaxed pace hiking in the north coast area including planned hikes of Neahkanie Mt., Tillamook Head, Fort to Sea, Astoria River Walk, and Saddle Mt. There will be no trip meeting beforehand, but we will meet at the trailhead for each hike. Hikes will be listed in the Bulletin under Trail Trips. For those who may want to stay in the area, Fort Stevens State Park will be the leaders base. It is a popular campground so early reservations are recommended. For more information Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@ pacifier.com.
Obituary WILLIAM “BILL” FRANK KINGSBURY July 29, 1936–Nov. 21, 2014
(excerpted from The Oregonian) William Frank Kingsburgy died Nov. 21, 2014 at the age of 78, while pursuing is favorite pastime—hiking. Bill served in the U.S. Army and then entered the U.S. Foregin Service. He served in Japan, Korea, Spain, the Netherlands and Washington, D.C. While in Korea he married Melinda Wendell in 1969. They had three children. Bill retired from the state department in 1996 and he and Melinda moved to Oregon in 1998, where he avidly pursued the outdoor life, including hiking, camping and snowshoeing with the Mazamas and Oregon Trails Club. Bill had been an active member of the Mazamas since joining in 2005. A service is planned at 11 a.m. Saturday, Jan. 24, 2015 at Westminster Presbyterian Church.
MAZAMA FAMILIES
Enjoy 2015 As a Family
Choose from hiking, climbing, skiing, and more as Mazama Families 2015 gets underway! Nutrition for kids, especially regarding participating in long hikes, backpacking trips, and climbs, is an interesting topic. The general need for fats, proteins, and carbohydrates is of course the same as for adults, but the proportions needed overall vary according to age. Short-term, a more interesting problem is finding items to keep the kids’ spirits up while on the trail and that they will actually eat. Trail mix, a major trail staple for many of us, does not seem to be an overwhelming favorite among many of our younger participants; on the other hand, certain “Go Foods” (a term coined by mom Corinna Kupelweisser—definition: a food that improves morale, can motivate a child to complete a hike or climb, and which generally keeps them engaged) like gummy bears and red Twizzlers are universal favorites. Not necessarily less sweet but perhaps a bit healthier, Costco dried mango is a relatively inexpensive favorite and is does come in large quantities! While it is heavy, we did
UPCOMING EVENTS FAMILY WINTER FESTIVAL AT MAZAMA LODGE—JAN. 30, NOON–8 P.M. The always-popular rootbeer garden opens at noon, along with a snow sculpture contest. Ski racing will occur on a loop track in front of the lodge, aided by members of the Grant, Franklin, and Cleveland Nordic Ski Teams. There will be a live band and simple folk dancing lessons in the evening. No registration is needed for a day visit; for more information on overnight rates and to register for an overnight stay, please visit mazamas.org/lodge. Jan. 30 is a school holiday for most schools in the area. FAMILY NIGHT AT MAZAMA LODGE— JAN. 30 & FEB. 27 Reprising an overwhelmingly popular series from last year, Family Night at the Lodge is the last Friday of each month. Mazama Hill will be specially groomed and lights will stay on until 10 p.m., allowing for late evening fun. Overnight stays are free for Mazama members 12 and under. Fore more information and to register: mazamas.org/lodge.
FAMILY CLIMB NIGHT— JAN. 29 & MARCH 12; 5:30–7 P.M. Family Climb Nights continue through the winter and will become a year-around, nearly monthly activity. We have developed an encouraging environment to help your child become comfortable with climbing and to learn climbing techniques. We are also there to give instruction and coaching on any climbing skill you and your children would like to learn from tying in, belaying, rappelling techniques, and fixed line travel. Come for part or all of the evening, but don’t miss this opportunity for parents and kids to climb and learn at their own pace. There will be a toddler table for those not quite ready to be roped up or anyone looking for a break. Harnesses available for children and parents if needed. OXBOW PARK HIKE—SUNDAY, JAN. 18 Take a walk through Oxbow Park’s ancient forest to stillstanding trees, relics of a previous Mt. Hood eruption! Along the way, we’ll also visit Oxbow’s new nature-based play area, and we’ll find a nice spot for a picnic. We’ll begin and end our hike outside the park, so
manage to get several bags up South Sister last summer, but A group of kids enjoying igloo building during Winter Family Weekend 2014. Photo: Justin Rotherham. mysteriously they did not make it back down. A couple of other healthier favorites are Honey Stinger Organic Chews and Pocket Fuel Chocolate Haze. And let’s not forget something for the parents: chocolate covered expresso beans. As we ring in the New Year we think back to 2014 and celebrate the Families program achievement of nearly 1,800 activity days for kids and parents for the year! We are looking ahead to 2015 with a goal to double oppourtunities for families to interact together on climbing, hiking and related outings. no parking fees are necessary. This low-elevation winter hike is open to all who can walk 6 miles in about 4 hours. FAMILIES ALPINE SKI DAY: MT. HOOD MEADOWS—SUNDAY, JAN. 11 Mt. Hood Meadows has offered a group discount on lift tickets, gear rental, lessons, and food. Registration deadline: January 5. Coordinator: Eric Einspruch. A minimum of 15 people to register in order to receive the group rate. FAMILIES NORDIC SKI DAY: MT. HOOD MEADOWS—SUNDAY, FEB. 22 Mt. Hood Meadows has offered a group discount on the track fee, gear rental, and lessons. Registration and pricing details: mazamafamilies.org. Registration deadlines: February 16. Coordinator: Eric Einspruch. A minimum of 15 people to register in order to receive the group rate. FAMILIES YURT CAMPING IN NEWPORT, ORE.—FEB 6–8 A fun, laid-back minigetaway for families this winter. Join us for two nights “camping” in yurts at the South Beach State Park on the beautiful
Oregon Coast. Do as little or as much as you’d like, with plenty of great options: ▶▶ Take a walk and explore the paved trails and outdoor areas around the campsite or at the Yaquina Head Natural Area. ▶▶ Visit the acclaimed Oregon Coast Aquarium ▶▶ Discover a piece of Oregon history at the Yaquina Bay lighthouse—it’s free! ▶▶ Wind down at the Rogue Ales Public House and Brewery on Saturday afternoon. You can take the brewery tour ($5 a person, payable on the day) or just hang out and sample the brews. We plan on all having dinner at Rogue on Saturday too, be sure to sign up for that when you book your spots! ▶▶ Fee: $22 for every person that occupies a bed. Price includes the yurt accommodation and any additional parking fees.
To view more activities, register for any of the above and/or sign up for updates, visit www. mazamafamilies.org. JANUARY 2015 19
20S & 30S MAZAMAS
Winter Weekend is Here! The 20s and 30s Mazamas lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s along with anyone who is “young at heart.” All activities are open to everyone. The Mazamas 20s and 30s Winter Weekend is almost here! If you haven’t signed up yet, hurry and sign up before it is too late! This year we will be organizing many favorite activities like snowshoeing, Nordic skiing, sledding, hiking, and lodge loafing, and we have leaders for all ability levels. So whether it is your first time on snowshoes, or you play in the snow often, we have something for you. This is a great chance to meet winter activity buddies and explore new places for snowy adventures. The food is delicious, the roaring lodge fire is warm, and we will relax in the evenings with beverages and board games.
UPCOMING EVENTS MONDAY, JAN. 5: CLIMB NIGHT AT CLUBSPORT Our monthly evening of rock climbing at ClubSport in Tigard. 6:30–10 p.m. All ages and ability levels are welcome! Get more details: mazamas.org/activities-events/climb-night/ WEDNESDAY, JAN. 7: COMMITTEE MEETING Would you like to get involved with the 20s and 30s Mazamas? We are looking for volunteers! We invite everyone to come join our monthly committee meeting at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). We will review the past month’s activities and plan the future month. We love guests at our meetings and we often go out for libations afterwards at the nearby Horse Brass Pub. SUNDAY, JAN. 11: HIKE—CAPE LOOKOUT STATE PARK Advanced Email Sign-up Required We will hike south on the North Trail and then turn west on the Cape Trail. Views of forest and ocean! Hike: 9.4 miles, 1,200 feet gain. Expect to hike 2+ mph. Drive: 156 miles round trip. Trip fee: $2/$3 members/nonmembers. Parking fee $3. Meet at Sunset Transit Center, NW corner of the lower level of the parking garage. Meet at 8 a.m. Leader: Hal Paver. Email the leader to sign up.: halpaver@halpaver.com
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FRIDAY–SUNDAY, JAN. 16–18: WINTER WEEKEND! What does Winter Weekend include? ▶▶ all activities (bring your own skis or snowshoes, or rent them before the trip) ▶▶ late evening Friday dinner (8 p.m. for late arrivals) ▶▶ Saturday morning breakfast ▶▶ Saturday dinner ▶▶ Sunday morning breakfast ▶▶ lodging for two nights. Participants will be emailed a detailed prospectus in January. It will include information regarding carpooling, directions, and parking. A list of suggested items to bring for your stay at the Mazama Lodge will also be sent. Cost: $90 for Mazama members and $120 for non-members. Register: mazamas.org/ activities-events/20sand30s-winter-weekend/ WEDNESDAY, JAN. 21: CLIMB NIGHT AT PLANET GRANITE Our monthly evening of rock climbing at Planet Granite in the Pearl. 6:30–10 p.m. Get more details: mazamas.org/activities-events/climbnight/
SATURDAY, JAN. 24: HIKE—NORTH LAKE Advanced Email Sign-up Required Wilderness Area—Group Size Limited to 12. Located in the Hatfield Wilderness, just west of Mt. Defiance, this trail is steep and long, rising 3,800 feet in 7 miles to North Lake, surrounded by thick forest, and quite isolated. This is an excellent winter conditioning hike. Be prepared for snow, ice, rain, or all three. Faster pace. Exploratory. Hike: 13.2 miles round-trip, 4,160 feet elevation gain. Drive: 88 miles round-trip. Trip fee: $2/$3 members/nonmembers. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, 7:30 a.m.. Leader: Adonay Solleiro, adonayvs@hotmail.com. SATURDAY, JAN. 24: HIKE—DESCHUTES RIVER TRAIL Ready for some sunshine and a long, flat hike in the desert east of the The Dalles? Join us as we hike up the mighty desert river towards abandoned farms and weathered boxcars. Rain is unlikely and sunshine highly likely. On the way back we’ll stop in The Dalles or Hood River for refreshments. Hike: 11+ miles, 300 feet. We can hike even longer if so desired. Drive: 180 miles. Friendly dogs [on leash] welcome. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, 8 a.m.
MAZAMA LODGE NEWS
Plan your Lodge Visit
Manager: Charles Barker Caretakers: Aaron & Brett 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
There are plenty of activities to choose from at Mazama Lodge this winter. Start planning now. Mazama Lodge is ready for your winter visit! A FEW REMINDERS FOR YOUR VISIT: 1. Mazama Lodge is open to members during the day for free. Non-member rates (this includes guests) are $5/day or $15/family. Guests can purchase lunch for $8.50 adults/$5.50 kids. If you buy meals, we waive the day fee! 2. If you forget to bring a snow park permit, we sell one-day and three-day snow park permits. $6 one day/$11 three-day pass. 3. Please enter and exit through the basement to keep our lodge warm. 4. Mazama Lodge and our ski hill are pet free. 5. Hill grooming occurs every week starting Dec. 26 through the end of March. Please don’t leave sleds or skis outside overnight so the groomer won’t run over your skis. 6. Have a great stay and remember we don’t require lunch reservations for groups smaller than 4. Lunch is served from noon–1:30 p.m. every Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, and on MLK Day and Presidents Day. NEW YEARS DAY: A TERRIFIC BRUNCH FOR LUNCH! New Years Day Brunch is served from 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Adults $8.50/Kids $5.50.
FRIDAY, JAN. 2: MAX RUPERT Max Rupert, retired Lodge Caretaker makes a cameo appearance as he plays the piano to a silent movie at 7:30 p.m. LUNCH AT MAZAMA LODGE SERVED EVERY FRIDAY, SATURDAY, SUNDAY AND MONDAY (MLK AND PRESIDENTS DAY) ▶▶ Vegetable du Jour ▶▶ Hot soup—vegan options ▶▶ Grilled cheese sandwiches ▶▶ Whole Fruit ▶▶ Rice Crispy Treats ▶▶ $8.50 for adults, $5.50 for kids FRIDAY, JAN. 30: MAZAMA LODGE WILL HOST ITS 92ND WINTER FAMILY FESTIVAL! Noon—8 p.m. The outdoor grill will get going at noon with activities starting at 1 p.m. Stay for our traditional Bavarian dinner and live folk music from 6–8 p.m. Don’t miss our flaming Baked Mt. Hood! All activities are free; meals: adults—$8.50/lunch, $12.50/ dinner; Kids 12 and under—$5.25/lunch, $6.50/dinner. Winter Family Event Includes: Snow Sculpture Contest, Birkebeiner (ski race), Ed Rea plays the guitar next to a warm, and a new event—Snow Golf ! Did we mention crackling fire at Mazama Lodge. Photo: Charles Barker. the root beer garden?
Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes
Your Mazama Realtor
Counseling & Psychotherapy to address relationship issues, anxiety, depression, and unresolved loss or trauma 35 years experience Mazama since 2001 former member, CIDT
Virginia Terhaar, Ph.D. virginiaterhaar.com 503-274-1945 JANUARY 2015 21
Where Will You Go Exploring in 2015?
OUTINGS—LOCAL, NATIONAL, INTERNATIONAL
The Mazamas regularly lead outings, both foreign and domestic, for members and nonmembers to experience other cultures, ecosystems, mountain ranges, and the natural world in a safe and affordable manner. KILIMANJARO—A ROUTE LESS TAKEN
NORTH TO ALASKA OUTING
CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING
From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, experience the scenery and wildlife of unique climatic zones as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. Our ascent to the summit follows one of the least frequented routes via Lemosho Gate and the Western Breach climb. In country costs for this unique trip range $3,800–4,300 per person depending upon number of participants. Airfare from Portland is currently around $1,600 and can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations. For more information please contact the leaders: Paul Steger, 503-998-6188, PaulSteger612@gmail.com, and Eric Hoem, 503-341-3996, erichoem@comcast.net. Read full details on the website.
Travel to Talkeetna, Alaska and enjoy a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. Fly to Anchorage and, after one night in Anchorage, use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna. At Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for XC skiing, snowshoeing, aurorawatching, learning about dog mushing, photography, meeting locals, learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaskan Range. Basic costs for airfare to and from Portland, vehicle rental, most food and lodging is around $1,200. Equipment rental if needed ~ $75; dog mushing sled ride ~ $75; scenic Denali flight and Ruth Gorge landing ~ $300. Outing deposit is $550. If interested contact leader Tom Bennett, nordlys_2@yahoo.com. Please let us know why you want to participate and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.
Mazamas return to Chamonix for our 3rd annual climbing outing! Nestled near the border of Switzerland, Italy and France, lies the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix France. We’ll be there during the peak alpine climbing season for over two weeks. Based at the foot of the Mt. Blanc Massif, with hundreds of day trip objectives on snow, ice, and rock, this will be a unique opportunity for climbers to explore the Alps and stretch their skills. This will be a strenuous outing with climbing opportunities daily for the duration of the trip. Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) graduates or equivalent (Advanced school graduates or equivalent preferred). Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Participants should also have a good fitness level as a large portion of the alpine climbs start at 11,000 feet. Outing cost will be $2,200 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees and the cost to ride the panoramic MidiHellbronner gondola are not included. The leader and assistant have climbed in Chamonix multiple times and will orient the participants to the area and assist daily with route selection, logistics, communications, and hut reservations. Daily climbs are not guided but are organized independently by participants in groups of 2-4 with approval by the leader and/or assistant. In each of the past two years a climb of Mt. Blanc via the Gouter route have been successful. Prior to the trip, we will include an evening
Feb. 7–19
SPRINGTIME IN SEDONA March 14–21
Experience hiking amongst soaring Red Rock monoliths, vortices and Indian ruins. Spend a week in the greater Sedona, Arizona area with 6 days of day hikes and a mid-week break to visit ancient pueblo ruins, ghost towns and art galleries. Both A & B hikes will be offered with a variety of terrain. Escape the rainy northwest and enjoy the high desert with over 300 days of sunshine, average temperatures in the 60’s and cold nights with star filled skies. Costs include 8 nights lodging at a moderate hotel with continental breakfast (double occupancy). Not included are transportation, lunch and dinner. Air costs run $280+. Participants are encouraged to share car rentals and gas. Costs $433–$489 for members, depending on number of participants. Registration deadline Feb. 21, 2015. Pre-outing meeting will be held. Contact Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@ecd. com and Marilyn Zigler, mszhike@gmail.com.
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March 21–29
OLYMPICS NATIONAL PARK HIKING June 20–27: Full—Alternates Only
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
HIKING NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDLAND July 22–Aug. 2: Full—Waiting List
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
July 11–27
MAZAMA AFFILIATE OUTINGS 8-DAY HUT-TO-HUT TRAVERSE OF THE TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS IN ROMANIA July 24–Aug. 2, 2015
class/refresher on high-angle rescue techniques. For those ICS graduates who have not done any ice climbing, we also plan to do a one-day instruction/review of ice climbing technique on the Mer de glace Glacier when we first arrive while acclimatizing. Participants will be expected to bring their personal climbing equipment in their luggage and to carry some group gear (typically a rope). Information night will be Tuesday, Dec. 16 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org or assistant leader,Lisa Brady, pdxlisa@gmail. com, for more details.
OREGON COAST HIKING August 10–16
Based out of South Beach State Park, we will hike approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Lincoln Beach. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Other hikes in the area may also be offered. Hikers wanting a break can also visit local attractions such as the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; and can come for fewer than seven days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $90–$145 depending on the number of participants. A $100 deposit is required with sign-up by July 15, 2015. (Participants should make site reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at South Beach SP.) Contact leader Joe Whittington, joewhittington@gmail.com , or assistant leader Skip Smith, bs_as3457@yahoo.com, for more details.
JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK Aug. 28–Sep. 10
Follow in the steps of John Muir as we take his ~220 mile namesake trail from the Yosemite Valley to the top of Mt. Whitney (14,494 ft.), traversing the beautiful and scenic high Sierra. Highlights of the trek include multiple 10,000 ft. passes, alpine lakes, jawdropping scenery and the summit of Mt. Whitney. The five to six participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 100 mile (or greater) trek and at least one 12,000 ft. peak or pass. We will be traveling light and fast, ~20 miles per day with elevation gains greater than 5000 ft. on some days. The majority of the hike takes place at over 8000 ft. The cost of the outing is $495 to $535 (depending on number of participants) and does not include airfare. Outing dates are tentative pending obtaining the needed permit. $250 deposit is required upon acceptance. Contact the leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@ hotmail.com) or assistant Darin Richardson (darin@delineate.net) for more information. Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors. org and the American Alpine Club—www. americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for Leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the Leader and Assistant Leader costs may be paid by the participants.”
The coolest place you never knew you wanted to go! In partnership with Mountain Hiking Holidays: Join us on a challenging and memorable “hut to hut” adventure in the high Carpathians of central Romania, also known as the Transylvanian Alps. Complete an exciting multi-day traverse along the main ridge of the Făgăraş Mountains--one of the longest continuous high mountain traverses in Europe. The traverse will take you over Romania’s three highest peaks (Moldoveanu, 8,350 feet; Negoiu, 8,317 feet; and Viştea Mare, 8,291 feet). Round out your Romania adventure with visits to the splendid medieval town of Sighisoara (a UNESCOdesignated World Heritage Site), and a sampling of Transylvania’s treasury of castles, monasteries, and fortified Saxon churches. Trip price: $3,595. Contact: info@ mountainhikingholidays.com
ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015
Every trekker’s dream trip in the heart of the Himalaya. In partnership with Embark Adventures: Journey with us to a place that will be physically, emotionally, and mentally compelling. From jungle to Tibetan plateau you’ll trek 13 days from Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp via the amazing remote valley locked deep in the heart of the Annapurna range; all the while encountering the amazing Nepali people. This trek begins at the awe-inspiring lake city of Pokhara. You’ll travel on foot through several iconic villages, including Thakali, Magar and Gurung; coming to rest finally at Annapurna Base camp, elevation 13,800 feet. The trip is 19 days and includes time in Kathmandu, Pokhara. $2995. Contact Donovan@Embarkadventures.com. Trip leader: Jim Ronning, Mazama member.
JANUARY 2015 23
OSU Student Receives 16 Peak Award Engineering student youngest in Mazamas club history to earn award. by Abigail Erickson, The Daily Barometer (reprinted with permission) Quentin Carter was only 4 years old when he reached the summit of Old Snowy Mountain and joined the Mazamas, a Portland-based nonprofit Mountaineering Education Organization. At 8 years old, he reached the summits of Mount Adams, Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens, earning the Guardian Peaks award. At 14, he climbed an additional six mountains, including all Three Sisters, and earned the Oregon Cascades award. Now, at age 19, Quentin Carter, a sophomore in mechanical engineering at Oregon State University, has earned the 16 Northwest Peaks award by successfully climbing all 16 major mountains in the Pacific Northwest. Quentin Carter is also the youngest member in Mazama history to achieve this award since the club’s inception in 1894. To become a member of the Mazamas, you have to successfully summit a mountain with a glacier. Saturday, Nov. 9, Quentin Carter
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received his award at The Summit, the final event of the 2014 Portland Alpine Fest. During The Summit, a crowd of hundreds gathered to meet other athletes, participate in various auctions and congratulate their peers on their achievements. Quentin Carter was one of three recipients of the 16 Peaks award, the others being Karl Helser and Amy Mendenhall, who were unable to attend the event. Quentin Carter is now the 477th member of the Mazamas to receive this award out of thousands of members. Bill McLoughlin, Chair of the Climbing Committee, was very proud to present the award to Quentin Carter personally. “I took Quentin on one of his first climbs when he was 12,” McLoughlin said. “We didn’t summit, but I took him on another one a year later. Not many 13-year-olds can tolerate several hours of climbing, but he stuck with it and did very well.” McLoughlin was especially impressed with Quentin Carter’s endurance and patience, and said that his age was never an issue on climbs. “I’d like to credit his dad too for getting him involved,” McLoughlin said. Quentin Carter’s father, Matthew Carter, has led many climbs over the years, and was how Quentin Carter himself got involved in climbing at such a young age. “He took to it like a duck to water,” Matthew Carter said. “We started with little summits and overnight camps. He just kept going; he never quit. I’m very proud of him.” Quentin Carter’s tenacity earned him a lot of respect from his fellow climbers, including Dick Miller, a now retired climber who lead climbs for 40 years. According to Quentin Carter, Miller took him on a climb when he was only about 7 years old. “When you’re under 14 years old, you
can’t go on climbs your parents are leading,” Quentin Carter said. “So (Miller) took me with him. He really showed me how it was done then.” During his speech, Quentin Carter hoisted a small red ice axe that Miller custom made for him in his youth. “Those are some of my best climbing memories by far,” Quenton Carter said. “Dick is probably my favorite climber.” Overall, it took Quentin Carter 12 years of climbing to achieve the 16 Peaks award. Every climb is different, and it can take between 12 to 20 hours—if not more—to summit a mountain. “To be a climber, you have to be forgetful,” Quentin Carter said. “You forget all the bad bits. You’ll go out and get rained on and come home and think ‘ah, that was horrible,’ but then a week later, you think about how awesome it was. The most important part is going at your own pace and enjoying yourself.” For Carter, the next goal is to eventually lead summits to all 16 peaks. “There’s always climbing left,” Quentin Carter said. “There are always different routes to take to get to the top.” For now, Quentin Carter plans on continuing to challenge himself on different climbs as he continues with his education.
Top: Quentin, age 7, at the Red Saddle on Mt. Jefferson. Left: Quentin on the summit of Mt. Shuksan, the final peak in his 16-peak quest.
Time Warp
Travel back in time: What were Mazamas doing 50 & 100 years ago? by Jack Grauer
Ice Wall Construction The ice wall is on its way!
The ice wall construction party on Dec. 13 at the MMC included Jed Stasch, Craig Martin, Keith Campbell, Mike Maygar, George Cummings, Jeff Maag and Mt. Hood Steel & Wood LLC (co-owned by Dan Leone and his brothers). Designer Tom Baughman even dropped in to check out the work.
1964—50 YEARS AGO
Member Notes: George and Gwen Francisco returned from a month in England, Scotland, Denmark, and Spain. Jack Willingham graduated from the U.S. Navy Divers’ School in San Diego. He will begin two-year assignment at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. Steve Phinney and Mildred Anderson married. Dave and Cheri Bergl are the new Mazama Lodge managers. Obituaries: Charles Merten, Earl Reitsma, Margaret Chappell. December 11: Grace Houghton taught folk dancing at the clubrooms. December 14: Sign up for ski school. Lecture on equipment and a moving picture of 1963 ski school. December 16: Christmas party conducted by Margery Moore and Louise Gatewood at the clubrooms will include games, prizes, skits, singing. Bring a comical gift costing no more than 25 cents.
Left: Jed Stasch. George Cummings. Photos: Jeff Maag
1914—100 YEARS AGO
The first permanent clubrooms of The Mazamass were formally opened to members on November 28, 1914, in Suites 213 and 214 in the Northwestern Bank Building at 621 SW Morrison Street. Nearly 200 Mazamas and friends visited the new headquarters during the afternoon and evening. Officers, former presidents, and committee people were in the receiving line. A program of speeches followed. The new Mazama rooms were moderately furnished, mostly with furniture and pictures donated by members. Mazama leaders intended to make them the showplace of Oregon for mountain photographs and welcomed them from members. They were also collecting books for a library. The committee in charge of obtaining furniture consisted of H.H. Prouty, chair, Mrs. Frank Branch Riley, Miss Edith Ellis, Rodney L. Glisan, and A.B. Williams. The observatory on the roof of this 15-story building presented a grand view of Mount Hood, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, and Mount Rainier. Previously, The Mazamas had a temporary room at the Portland City Hall, but the organization had never done anything toward establishing and furnishing its headquarters. One of the 311 members listed in the 1914 Mazama Annual was Honorary Member John Muir.
JANUARY 2015 25
Used Equipment Sale 2015 Your Chance to Sell & Score Great Gear!
APPLY NOW FOR ADVANCED ROCK
Application Period: Dec. 1–Jan. 13 Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad class (AR) runs from March–May 2015. For more information about the course and to apply, visit mazamas. org/education-classes/ advanced-rock/. The class consists of: Series of 11 lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate. 8 weekend field sessions coordinated by skilled, experienced climbers.
Friday, March 20 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (SE 43rd and Stark) ▶▶ 5–6 p.m. for Mazama members and student in climb classes ▶▶ 6–8 p.m. Sale open to general public What should you do if you’d like to buy “field tested” gear at very cheap prices? ▶▶ Mark your calendars for Friday, March 20 ▶▶ Plan to come early for best selection. ▶▶ Mazamas accepts cash, checks or Visa®/ MasterCard®. ▶▶ Once again, we’ll be collecting warm clothing for Fish Emergency Services to distribute to Portland’s needy.
What should you do if you’d like to sell something? ▶▶ Look in your gear closet for saleable equipment or clothing you aren’t using or have upgraded. ▶▶ Price it reasonably and it will sell; you’ll keep 70% of all proceeds. ▶▶ Pick up price tags and tally sheets at the MMC starting Feb 15. ▶▶ Mark your calendars for Thursday, March 19 from 4–8 p.m. to drop off items for the sale. Who is organizing the Used Equipment Sale and can answer questions? ▶▶ Contact: Meg Linza at ues@mazamas.org.
Opportunities to meet new and experienced rock climbers. An invitation to 2–4 rock climbing outings (spring through fall); no climb card required. A chance to learn about local climbing areas. Involvement in a supportive group that will facilitate learning new skills and challenging yourself through climbing. FUN!! And lots of it. If you have questions, contact the leadership team at mazamas.ar@gmail.com or the Mazamas Mountaineering Ceter at 503-227-2345.
INTERESTED IN ASSISTING FOR AR? Sign up for one of the AR Assistant Update Sessions! DATES: Jan. 8, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC
Feb. 26, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC No registration required— just come on by! Or for more information, email mazamas. ar@gmail.com.
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Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
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Enjoy expert advice and the structure and accountability you’ve always needed to turn your memories into something tangible—a piece of writing you can feel proud of. This 6-Week Course meets consecutive Tuesday or Wednesday evenings at For more details or to sign up, contact the MMC. Fee $250 Joe Fox, at reachmrfox@gmail.com.
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Nichole Atkins—Glacier Crest, BC Matthew Bell—Mt. Shasta Nathan Collins—St. Helens Bradley Cope—Mt. Hood Sheri Cope—Mt. Hood Nicole Coppip—Mt. Thielsen Morgan Dethman—Mt. Adams Cody Evans—South Sister David Fritz—Mt. St. Helens Kyle Henning—Mt. Kilimanjaro Robert Holzman—Mt. St. Helens Gerald Horner—South Sister William Hupfer—Mt. Adams Eric Jacobson—Mt. Rainier Jennifer Johnson—Mt. St. Helens Kim Kopowski—Mt. St. Helens Richard Lewis—Mt. Rainier Diane Lloyd—Mt. Theilson Sara Ludeman—Mt. St. Helens James Mayer—Sahale Peak Silas Morgan—Mt. Hood Julie Neumann—South Sister Tristin Nighswander—Mt. Hood Melisssa Petrich—Mt. Adams Rebecca Rall—Mt. St. Helens Linda Rentfrow—Mt. Hood Danielle Reyes-Acosta—Lonquimay (Chile) John Roskelley—Honorary Member Chad Rossmeissl—Mt. Kilimanjaro Cate Schneider—Mt. St. Helens Brett Sheppard—Mt. St. Helens Stacia Torborg—South Sister Darrin Vannevele—South Sister Robert Vest—Mt. Adams Viola Wax—Mt. St. Helens Andrew Yeoman—South Sister Matt Zaffino—Ptarmigan Traverse Mike Zuckerman—Mt. St. Helens
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Start your new year with a journey into nature, beauty, and yoga. Ski or snowshoe to the Tilly Jane A-Frame, a rustic cabin in Mt. Hood National Forest. Spend a day and a night amidst incredible scenery and revitalize yourself with three powerful yoga practices. Registration open through Jan. 10: $145. www.yogawithqian.com
Welcome New Mazamas!
dec
Fri-Sat, Jan. 16-17, 2015; Led by Qian Leng, MD
mem
Snowga: A Snowshoe and Yoga Adventure
new
MEMBERSHIP REPORT
30, 20
Deceased Bill Kingsbury (2005), Donald Parr (1966), David Wedge (1992) –year in parentheses indicates year joined.
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
503.684.9698
JANUARY 2015 27
Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open
TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE
to members and non-members alike. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR NEW HIKES & UPDATES Check the website for new hikes and updates and other useful information: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas. org/hike for updates. The main page gives general information, which is elaborated upon in the blue HikingQuick Links box, where the hike schedule is found as well as valuable tips on what to bring in your pack, first aid supplies and clothing tips. Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 50381909250 with any questions. 20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING: Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s WINTER HIKING SEASON In winter, dressing for the conditions using rain gear, layers, and appropriate clothing is important in reducing your risk of hypothermia. Be sure to read the important Mazama Hike Rules at the bottom of the main page. Leaders may refuse to accept participation by those they feel are unqualified or unprepared. STREET RAMBLES Tuesday and Thursday Rambles Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 5001,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS MEETUP Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips has a number of hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at meetup.com/mazama-hiking/.
28 MAZAMA BULLETIN
HK C2 Jan 01 (Thu) Dog Mountain. David Zeps 503-3337783. Dog Dawn Day 1. Leader will meet at Gateway to carpool. No extra fee to cajole hungover hikers to their first summit of the year. Check the weather and be prepared, we’ve had bluebirds to blizzards in years past. 7 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Jan 02 (Fri) Willamette Loop. Terry Lawson lawson. terry@gmail.com. Celebrate the New Year with a nice hike by the river before returning to football and food. Starting on the Eastbank Esplanade in front of OMSI, we proceed along the Springwater Corridor to Sellwood Riverfront Park. After crossing the Sellwood Bridge, we return along riverside trails on the west side, with an optional coffee stop near the end. 8.4 miles 200 ft. Dr. 0 OMSI on Esplanade by river 9:30 a.m. MU HK A2.5 Jan 03 (Sat) Mt.Tabor laps. Rick Craycraft 503-6792113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Start that New Year conditioning program TODAY! Three miles per lap. Do as many as you want. Meet at the crater parking lot near the playground. Turn right at the end of SE 69th (coming from the north). 9 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 0 Mt. Tabor upper parking lot. 9 a.m. HK C2 Jan 03 (Sat) CookAugsperger Traverse. Kurt Hiland kurthikes@msn.com. Gorge point-to-point hike that tags the summits of 3,660’ Augsperger Mtn and 3,100’ Cook Hill. Expect marvelous views, chilly breezes, rudimentary trail and maybe a few miles in snow. For the experienced hiker with 10 essentials. 13 miles 4,500 ft. Dr. 110 TH Gateway 7 a.m. MU SS B Jan 03 (Sat) Trillium Lake Moon Light Snowshoe. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail. com. Snowshoe around Trillium Lake loop road at night, (Jan 4 is full moon.) If the weather and clouds cooperate it will be a great snowshoe. (Will cancel if roads are bad.) Estimated time back to the park and ride is 2 a.m. Pace will be easy to moderate. Bring extra warm clothes (no cotton) and headlamp (part of 10E’s). Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. Meet at Clackamas Town Center Transit Center Park & Ride - 9225 SE Sunnyside Rd, North end of parking structure, lower level at
8:30 p.m. 5.2 miles 800 ft. Dr. 100 SnoPark Clackamas Town Center Park & Ride 8:30 p.m. HK A1.5 Jan 04 (Sun) Forest Park: Wild Cherry to Alder. Carolyn Eckel 503-251-5939. Start on Leif Erickson, Wild Cherry, Wildwood, Alder and back on Leif Erickson. Gaiters advised. No lunch hike. 4.7 miles 400 ft. Dr. 11 MMC 9 a.m. HK B2 Jan 04 (Sun) Dry Creek Falls and Pacific Crest Falls. Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@ mentor.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Get your last hike in before heading back to work in the new year. Easy hike to two really nice waterfalls along the Pacific Crest Trail. Maybe we’ll catch sight of a bear. 8.5 miles ~1,500 ft. Dr. 78 Gateway Transit Center NE Corner 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2 Jan 07 (Wed) Stub Stewart State Park. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Let’s explore one of Oregon’s neweststate parks (2007) hiking on 12 different off road trails going thru 16 different trail intersections. some trails may be muddy although we avoid the muddiest. $5 fee per vehicle. 6.3 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 78 MMC 8:30 a.m. HK A2 Jan 09 (Fri) Hillsdale to Goose Hollow Walk. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. We will walk the #6 route starting at Hillsdale through SW Portland neighborhoods to Goose Hollow. Includes nice views of Portland. 4.5 miles 250 ft. Dr. 0 Wilson High School parking lot 9 a.m. MU HK A2 Jan 10 (Sat) Half 4T Trail. Terry Lawson lawson. terry@gmail.com. We start at the Zoo MAX station and hike via the Marquam Trail first to Council Crest and down through Marquam Park and on to OHSU. We then take the tram to the South Waterfront and walk along the waterfront to downtown, after which you can return via MAX to the start point or perhaps hike further through downtown and/or Washington Park for more miles after a downtown break. 5.5 miles 600 ft. Dr. 0 Zoo MAX Station 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Jan 10 (Sat) Herman Creek (The Forks). Sojo Hendrix sojo42@gmail.com. RSVP to signup. Wilderness—Limit 12. The Herman Creek Trail explores
the largest surviving forest of old growth fir, cedar, and hemlock left in the Columbia Gorge. Plus beautiful creeks and Nick Eaton Falls before we descend to confluence of the two main forks of Herman Creek at the four mile mark. 8.5 miles 1,640 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Jan 10 (Sat) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@ hotmail.com. You must contact leader if you have not hiked with him before. Wilderness— Limit 12. Waterfalls, some switchbacks, amazing workout. Start at Multnomah Falls, lunch at Sherrard Point and head back. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8 a.m. NS Jan 10 (Sat) Ski Tour Hard Time Loop. Wayne Lincoln 503245-9193, 503-758-0421 cell. Ski the Hard Time Loop. Upper Wind River. This route starts at Old Man Pass and travels up and down with some downhill glides through rolling forest and clearcuts. Call leader as snow conditions may require a different location or date 11 miles 700 ft. Dr. 140 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Jan 11 (Sun) Alameda Ridge. Paul Steger PaulSteger612@ gmail.com. An intertwining hike up and down the streets and stairs along Alameda Ridge in NE Portland starting from the north end of the parking lot at NE Fremont and 15th. 6 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 Albina Library NE Fremont and 15th 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Jan 11 (Sun) Pittock Stone House Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Starting at the Pittock Mansion viewpoint overlooking the city, we take the Wildwood Trail for about 5 miles to the Dogwood Trail, then onto Leif Eriksen, Aspen Ave, and Aspen Trail back to the Wildwood before climbing back up the Wildwood to Pittock Mansion. 9.3 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 0 Pittock Mansion 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Jan 14 (Wed) Bunker Hill. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Scenic Wind River area north of Carson. Eleven heart pounding switchbacks and a secluded summit. We might see a few elk along the way. 6 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 65 Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m. HK B2 Jan 16 (Fri) Angels Rest Variations—Exploratory. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.
SNOWSHOE TRIPS & CROSS COUNTRY SKI TOURS What do you do when your favorite hiking trails are all covered with snow? Well, instead of thinking it as an impediment to hiking, think of it as an opportunity to snowshoe or cross country ski. The schedule this winter will include a number of such opportunities. The Trail Trips Committee is working on increasing the number of snowshoe leaders and hopes to feature a full program of snowshoe trips as well as a few cross country ski tours during the winter months. All of these are very dependent on snow conditions, however, so it is very important to watch the mazamas website for changes in location or cancellations. Most leaders will require you to register so that you can be notified of such modifications. Besides those trips designated as snowshoe trips, there will also be some hikes that may require snowshoes or traction devices such as micro-spikes for part of the route, so come prepared and contact the leader if you are unsure what might be needed. breunsba@teleport.com. Stairway trail to the Throne, Oil Pan junction and the Bullet Car are all in this unique are to the west of Angels Rest. 7 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 45 MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Jan 17 (Sat) Klickitat River -Bald Eagles. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This will be two hikes in one. Balfour-Klickitat for 1 mile and 170 ft. elev. Also Klickitat River for 7.8 miles 270 ft. Dress warm; no cotton. It can be 32 degrees next to river! The Bald Eagles should be good viewing this time of year at the first hike! 8-9 miles 440 ft. Dr. 128 miles TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2.5 Jan 17 (Sat) Staircases of Alameda Ridge. Rick Craycraft 503679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Get some stair work in. 12 staircases along Alameda Ridge. Shorter to longer then back to shorter. Return along Alameda Drive. Meet at the corner of 18th and NE Mason, near the first staircase. Dress for the weather. 6 miles 1,000 feet ft. Dr. 0 18th and NE Mason 9 a.m. HK C1.5 Jan 17 (Sat) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Regis Krug 503-7046442 regis_krug@mentor.com. You must contact leader to get on this hike. Wilderness—Limit 12. Located in the Hatfield Wilderness, just west of Mt. Defiance, this trail is steep and long, rising 3,800 ft. in 7 miles to North Lake, surrounded by thick forest, and quite isolated. This is an excellent winter conditioning hike. Be prepared for snow, ice, rain, or all three. 13.2 miles 4,160 ft Dr. 88 Gateway 6:30 a.m. 14 miles 4,200 ft. Dr. 88 TH Contact Leader 6:30 a.m. MU SS B Jan 17 (Sat) Twin Lakes Snow Shoe. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Snowshoe from Frog Lake SnoPark, join the PCT and head towards the lower Twin Lake and on to the upper lake. Have lunch and then backtrack or continue on for the 8 mile loop around Bird Butte. Pace will be moderate. Expected hike time is 4-5 hrs plus driving time. (Will cancel if road conditions bad.) Contact leader via email if you plan to go. 8 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 110 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Jan 18 (Sun) Steigerwald Lake NWR. Mark Sanzone msanzone@ yahoo.com. Guided nature hike through wetlands, woodlands and along the Columbia River with a refuge volunteer. 503-292-1753 home, 503-679-0962 cell. 5 miles 100 ft. Dr. 30 Gateway
9:30 a.m. or 10 a.m. at trailhead (on highway 14). MU SS B Jan 21 (Wed) Chocolate Falls via Climber’s Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. A Close-up look at Mount St. Helens. From Marble Mount Sno Park, we will snowshoe the Worm Flows climbers route just to timberline. 8 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 130 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Jan 23 (Fri) BPA RoadNewton Road Loop Hike. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@gmail.com. Varied loop hike with spurs at the north end of Forest Park that rarely receives the attention of other parts of Forest Park. We will meet up at the BPA Road Trailhead at 8:30am. (http:// www.portlandhikersfieldguide.org/ wiki/BPA_Road_Trailhead). 8.1 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. N/A 8:30 a.m. MU HK A2 Jan 24 (Sat) Trail of Ten falls. Bill Stein 503-830-0817. Oregon State Park Day Use Pass or $5/vehicle required for parking. Silver Falls State Park features the densest concentration of falls in Oregon. We will hike a loop visiting North, Upper North, Twin, Winter, Middle North, Drake, Double, Lower North, Lower South, and South Falls. Prepare for rain, wind, and cold. We’ll gather for carpools on the lower level, south side of the Clackamas MAX station’s parking garage. Take the Green Line to the terminus or drive to the far east side of Clackamas Town Center. 7.8 miles 870 ft. Dr. 150 State Park Clackamas MAX parking garage 7:30 a.m. HK B2.5 Jan 24 (Sat) Cape Lookout (lower lot). Gary Bishop gbish90@ hotmail.com. Pre-BCEP conditioning hike. A seascape filled hike from the state park to the viewpoint at the end of the cape. Be prepared for anything from driving rain to a perfect sunny day. (Sign up at Target/185th carpool location only.) 10 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 144 StatePark Target/185th 8:30 a.m. NS Jan 24 (Sat) Meadows—Nordic (XC) Ski. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Nordic Ski Meadows Nordic Center. Ski past scenic Tamanawas Falls. Groomed Trails. Nordic Center Fee in addition to normal hike fee. Contact Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 with questions. 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 120 SnoPark ATM Safeway, Hwy 26, Sandy, Ore. 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Jan 25 (Sun) Cape Horn. Brett Nair 503-847-9550. This rugged hike
is a classic. The full trail loop provides fantastic views of the Columbia River Gorge, an intimate look at the Cape Horn Falls and a challenging workout as it climbs and descends the rocky slopes of Cape Horn. Please dress for the conditions, bring layers, rain pants, rain jacket and the 10 essentials. 7 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2.5 Jan 25 (Sun) Mt. Defiance. Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com or 503-297-7912. Wilderness—Limit 12. Great views over the gorge on the way up, a windy summit, and usually serene Warren Lake on the return trip. Come prepared for ice, deep snow, and low temps with lots of wind. Poles, snowshoes, and microspikes are recommended; we can decide at the trailhead what is needed. Call if you have questions or haven’t hiked with me before. 11.9 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 Gateway 6:30 a.m. HK B2 Jan 28 (Wed) Sedum RidgeFrom Trout Creek. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. We will travel south along the PCT from the Trout Creek Trailhead, Some great views of Experimental forest and gorge above Stevenson. Bring traction. 11 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 90 Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Jan 31 (Sat) Silver Falls State Park—Perimeter Loop. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Nice alternative to the more popular trails. Hike in solitude thru lovely forestson quaint wooden bridges over babbling creeks. Lots of switchbacks along the way. $5 fee per vehicle. 10.3 miles 1,750 ft. Dr. 115 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Jan 31 (Sat) Nesmith Point. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail. com. You must contact leader if you have not hiked with him before. Wilderness—Limit 12. This extremely steep hike is a good stamina builder and offers much to the hiking enthusiast, like sore leg muscles, pounding heart, gasping lungs and tripping feet. 9.8 miles 3,810 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m. SS B Jan 31 (Sat) Frog Lake to Twin Lakes Loop. Regis Krug 503-7046442 regis_krug@mentor.com. You must contact leader to join this hike Wilderness—Limit 12. Great snowshoe hike on a well established trail. We’ll start at the Frog Lake Snow-Park and head up the PCT to Lower and Upper Twin Lakes. 10 miles ~500 ft. Dr. 120 SnoPark Contact leader 7:30 a.m. MU
Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details. prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU=Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dogwalks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/ or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
JANUARY 2015 29
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—DEC. 9, 2014
Executive Council meets on the 2nd Tuesday of the month. Attending: Sojo Hendrix– President, Judith Baker–Vice President, John Rettig–Secretary, Steve Hooker–Treasurer (via phone), Kate Evans, Sunny Freeman, Marty Hanson, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber. Staff: Lee Davis, Jamie Anderson, Sarah Bradham, Kati Mayfield. The meeting was called to order at 6:32 p.m. by President Sojo H. It was noted that a quorum was present. The agenda was amended to add two items: ▶▶ Approval of the Oct. 6, 2014 Executive Session I minutes, requested by the secretary. ▶▶ Discussion of the CPA firm and costs for the financial review/ audit, requested by the vicepresident. It was moved by John R and
seconded by Kate E to approve the agenda as amended; motion carried unanimously. Judith B moved and Amy M seconded a motion to approve the minutes from the Oct. 6 Executive Session I; motion carried unanimously. Judith B moved and Amy M seconded a motion to approve the minutes from the Nov. 11 regular meeting; motion carried unanimously. BUSINESS REPORTS The Secretary’s Nov. 30 membership report was read verbally into the record. It was noted that this was the first time ever that we have exceeded 3,500 members. The Treasurer’s Report was reviewed by Jamie A, for Steve H.
As of Oct. 31, 2014, the Mazamas total operational revenue is $168,849 and operating expenses are $92,826. Assets (cash) available for general operations are $121,385 and current total assets are $2,131,311. Lee D gave the Executive Director’s report, incorporated herein by reference; items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: Adam B will be graduating from PSU and initiating a 509 internship for stewardship and advocacy; how his compensation package works out is being settled. The discussions with Trails Club on the Mazama Lodge parking lot have gone well; they are on board both with the shared construction expense, and also the maintenance expenses. The USFS hasn’t yet issued a status report on the Lodge Parking Lot Environmental work, so Lee recommends continuing to defer approval of the contract.
(approval of Matt Carter as chair; approval of revised Employee Handbook) ▶▶ Publications (approval of moving the Treasurer’s Report and related financial information from The Annual to a separate annual report) ▶▶ Families (assure that we update and approve the Age Policy by its April 2015 deadline) By consensus we first accepted into the record those reports not requesting actions, then dealt with the action requests as follows: John R moved and Joan Z seconded a motion to approve Matt Carter as chair of Governing Documents; motion carried unanimously. The Employee Handbook was discussed; this had been worked on vigorously by the committee over the first half of 2014 and delivered to EC in May, but has since languished. After some discussion, approval was tabled to the January meeting, and Judith B will be working with staff on their OLD BUSINESS comments submitted on the draft. The consent agenda was Marty H moved and Kate E reviewed; there were written seconded a motion to remove the reports and actions requested Treasurer’s Report and related from the following committees: financial information from the ▶▶ Conservation Mazama Annual to a separate ▶▶ Education annual report no later than April ▶▶ Lodge 2015; motion carried unanimously. ▶▶ Programs The revision and approval ▶▶ Governing Documents actions for the Age Policy prior to
Yoga Alignment Focus Joy of movement
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30 MAZAMA BULLETIN
YogaWithEugene.com 503-939-9657
Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to http://mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/.
its April 2015 sunset were clarified; these were to complete the mandatory review through Risk Management Committee and to get it before the March 2015 EC meeting for final approval. NEW BUSINESS Amad Doratotaj gave a presentation of a new proposal to set up an advisory council for EC. This would be a number of local resources who would volunteer to provide us expert knowledge, unbiased insights, and an outside perspective. The resources are typically drawn from the community, professionals, donors, volunteers, and ex-EC members. We would clearly document a purpose, mission, and role, although they would be advisory only and have no governing authority. Sunny F and Judith B agreed to form a subcommittee and work with Amad to make a recommendation by our April 2015 retreat. Kati M gave a report on the RespectNow!
Initiative; incorporated herein by reference. She requested the following amounts to be approved, all within budget as they were justified to be drawn from the legal fees budget as they could offset future legal expenses: ▶▶ $2,000 for one‐on‐one mediation ▶▶ $300 for a conflict resolution course CR 101 with PSU ▶▶ $1,200 for in-depth group training with Resolutions Northwest Judith B moved and Sunny F seconded a motion to draw $3,500 from the legal fees budget for this mediation and course work; motion carried unanimously. The upcoming financial review/audit was discussed. Judith B explained that we were on the third year of a three year audit cycle, wherein the first two years normally entail only a financial review, and the third year is expected to be a full audit. The estimate she received for said audit ($10,000) exceeds the
amount budgeted for a review ($6,000), and she requested authorization for the $4,000 extra to conduct the audit. John R moved and Marty H seconded a motion to authorize up to $10,000 for a full audit; motion carried unanimously. The discussions on Record Keeping and Management and ListServ usage were tabled until January 2015. We adjourned at 8:58 p.m.
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—
Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
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BCEP INFO NIGHT—JAN. 22 The Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is designed for those with little to no outdoor rock or snow experience and will prepare you for mountaineering. BCEP graduates will have acquired the skills required for a Mazama “A” or “B” level climbs, including peaks such as Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, South & Middle Sister, Curtis Gilbert, Mt. Thielsen, among others. In BCEP you’ll learn the basic elements of alpine climbing. The course material will cover fundamental elements from gear, how to pack efficiently, nutrition, map & compass, weather and other critical elements to the mountain experience. BCEP provides technical skills for both rock and snow. Rock skills will include top roped style outdoor climbing which include learning basic climbing knots, belaying skills, team communication, climbing techniques and converting to rappel. Snow techniques include snow travel, glissading, ice axe arrest, roped travel and expectations for an alpine climb. Field sessions are held in both alpine and rock terrain. Sessions might include overnight camping and alpine starts. The class will be conducted on exposed terrain and/or climbing routes as conditions and skills warrant.
Amanda Barbee celebrates on the summit of Mt. Rainier after a one-day summit. Photo: Andrew Holman.