Mazama July Bulletin

mazama

bulletin The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale—we climb high

July 2013 • Vol. 95 • No. 7

climb. hike. explore.

Jason Lee leads up the final couloir towards the summit ridge, Ice Cliff Glacier, Mt. Stuart. Photo: Andrew Holman

First Climb

by Keith K. Daellenbach

“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” Lao-tzu (604-531 B.C.) ne only has the opportunity for a first climb once—a tautology, I know, but no less profound for the first timer. On Oct. 7, 2012, I organized a team of eight Portlanders to climb Mount St. Helens (8,363 ft) that included my wife, Amy Young, our six-year old boy, Micah, my 76-year old mother-in-law, Helen Young, friends Ivan and Kim Lehecka and their son Sam (nine-years old), and stalwart friend Lori Avis. Even though Helen had dreamt of climbing her namesake mountain for some time, she had never attempted such an endeavor. Somehow growing up in Ohio, raising a family, and facing the rigors of nearly 50 years as a registered nurse caused Helen to have the necessary mettle for the climb. Micah, on the other hand, essentially had little ability to even understand what a climb was or knowledge of what he was getting into. With seven decades between them, it would make for a memorable first climb.

Micah enjoys hiking and had spent a good part of the summer outdoors hiking in the Tetons and Yellowstone as well as a 27-mile, 5-day backpack trip in the Wallowas. I thought he probably could complete the climb but honestly did not know for sure and was prepared to turn around if it was not to be. We all met at our home in the Concordia neighborhood of Northeast Portland and departed around 2:30 a.m. We caravanned up to the Climber’s Bivy on the mountain’s south side and left the 3,750 ft. trailhead at 4:20 a.m. It was dark and the trail was dusty but the stars were out and we were on our way walking through the forest. Few, if any, people were on the trail at that early hour.

We reached the Loowit Trail by 6 a.m., still in total darkness, and were making good time. One of Micah’s achilles’ heels was running out of energy and, with him, it’s not just any energy, it’s protein. With us, we had proven antidotes including ham slices, beef jerky, and hard boiled eggs. At frequent stops, we had him take in as much protein, in addition to other snacks and drink, as he wanted. A half hour later, twilight came just about the time we left treeline at 4,800 ft. and we started our way up the mountain’s lower slope of what seemed like endless boulders and short snippets of trail.

By 7:15 a.m., we gained Monitor Ridge and the sun peeked above the horizon. I could make out the small glow of the Cascade Creek Fire on the lower western slopes of Mt. Adams, some 30 miles to the east. Helen was her usual determined and ebullient self. After the sun came up, Micah asked how much farther and, unable to think of an obfuscating yet truthful answer, I said we’re about halfway to the top. Being somewhat discombobulated with night turning into day, he looked up the mountain and pointing up said, “so the car is that way?” I told him “no,” we’re half way to the summit and that we would have to come back down past this point and keep heading back

O

On Mount Saint Helens

by Micah C. Daellenbach I am on Mount Saint Helens.

What a wonderful lake.

What an adventurous world.

The mountain is like a desert.

It seems like you can see the whole world.

Think how fun that would be to sled.

down to get to the car. Somehow the quarter fractions added up in his mind and he exclaimed, “what are we going up for then, let’s go down!” I thought this point would possibly arrive; I know I’ve certainly felt that way on long, grueling climbs. I explained to him if he wanted to descend, we certainly would but that his friend Sam and the others would continue heading up. It would be many hours before they would be down to the car so it would be a long wait. Having Sam, one of the nicest boys one could ever hope to meet, along was an ace in the hole. Micah decided to continue heading up.

The concept of energy conservation for a six-year-old is a foreign one as Micah was doing taekwondo kicks, push ups, and seemingly always looking for the most challenging route to climb over the next boulder. Strangely too, he kept looking for good skipping rocks, impossible to find on a composite volcano. He told Sam, “If we die up here, my Dad is going to kill me”—at least he had a healthy dose of respect for the mountain.

By 11:15 a.m. we were at 7,120 ft., which is a small bench on the upper mountain, and Kim, ever resourceful, broke out an amazing homemade applesauce cake. Here one leaves the seemingly endless boulder field behind and starts up the final stretch over a sandy ash cone to the crater rim. Matching Micah’s age, I decided to offer him a reward of six beyblades, a toy top based on a popular Japanese animé series, if he reached the summit. Amy thought this was a bit excessive and she was probably right, although I was in the mood to celebrate. Micah exclaimed, “Let’s get this job done you guys, what are you waiting for?”

We reached the summit just before 1 p.m. and for the first time

continued on page 5

Executive Director’s Report Launching into Summer and the Future of Mazamas

S

ummer is here in the Pacific Northwest and surely most of you are outside enjoying the mountains. Caravans of climbers and hikers are heading out to visit rare and favorite places in the North Cascades, Canada, the Rockies, California, the European Alps and even Tibet. Likewise, as you’re reading this, I’ll be arriving in Chamonix, France to lead an outing in the alps with Shirley Welch and Marty Scott and an amazing group of Mazamas.

When I return in mid-July, I’ll be working with Executive Council and the committees to consider our financial position, prepare our budget and determine which strategic projects to pursue. Our list of potential projects includes a full spectrum of ideas from improving our facilities, engaging with national partners, technology investments, youth programs development, satellite programs, improving our publications and even an ice

“

that conversation, Keith asked me this question: What is the Mazamas’ unique public service benefit?

We do so many things at the Mazamas, that at first it seemed like this would be an easy question to answer. Just pick the best thing! We lead the largest hiking and climbing programs in Oregon, helping thousands of people get out into the mountains annually. We teach classes in basic, intermediate and advanced alpine climbing, sport climbing, trad climbing, skiing, fitness, wilderness first aid, and expedition skills. We also lead international outings, coordinate trail tending trips and give many tens of thousands of dollars away for research, conservation and expedition climbing. We hold nearly fifty programs and events per year that celebrate mountain culture; we care for two amazing buildings and have the largest mountaineering-oriented library and historical collection in the Pacific Northwest. Unfortunately, after thinking about all of these facets, my mind bogged down in the diversity and it took me some time to come to a conclusion.

This challenge of determining our “unique public service benefit” is critically important. The question sheds light on more than what we do best internally; it also invites us to look outside of the Mazamas and ask what we do that serves the public interest. We’re not asking about direct social services here, but rather, what do we do that is of beneficial interest to the public? What makes the Mazamas meaningful to all of our constituents, not just those who benefit directly from our classes and programs, or who donate to the Mazamas? Answering this question helps us to consider all of the people we serve, even if they’re not yet or no longer members. When we figure this out, and start using it to guide decisions about what we should start—and stop—doing, then we will become increasingly more relevant to our community and ever more successful.

Considering our current environment, we must realize that for the first time ever on our planet more people live in urban environments than in rural ones. This, coupled with our increasing reliance on technology to manage communications, has resulted in people spending much less time outdoors. So for most people, simply getting outdoors is difficult enough and the mountains seem an impossibly dangerous and inaccessible

Keep close to Nature’s heart and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.

Wash your spirit clean.” —John Muir, quoted by Samuel Hall Young in Alaska Days with John Muir (1915).

climbing wall at the MMC. We will be working to carefully consider these opportunities and determine which projects we will focus on in the year ahead. Like all nonprofits, we have limited resources and need to be wise about where we invest them.

Making wise, financially viable choices relies on a deep understanding both of our business model and also of our core mission.

About a year ago, I had a conversation with Keith Thomajan who runs United Way of the Columbia Willamette about the Mazamas, our strategic plan and how to help the Mazamas be successful in the future. Keith is a dedicated member of the Mazamas, consistently volunteering with our Advanced Snow and Ice classes and participating in activities year-round. He’s also been a great resource to me as I try to more deeply understand our organization and my role here. In

Upcoming Events & Classes Rock Review

July 17 at the MMC.

Sport Climbing Essentials SkillBuilder Begins on July 22.

ICS Application Available Starting Aug. 1.

Intermediate Snow Mini-Course

Lectures Aug. 5 & 8; Field Session Aug. 10 & 11.

ICS Info Night

Aug. 6 at the MMC.

Trail Tending— Mazama Trail

August 8–11. Four days of trail tending on our namesake trail. Stay for one day or all four! Find out more on the website.

MFA Recert

Get a jump on your recertification needs for the 13/14 climb season!

Aug. 19 & 21.

Lodge Work Party Sep. 20–22.

Annual Meeting Oct. 1 at the MMC.

continued on next page July 2013—3

Executive Director report, continued from front page

place. Magazines that we all love, like Alpinist, Climbing, Rock & Ice and even Outside often reinforce the public perception that the mountains are so dangerous that you either have to be an elite athlete or be crazy to venture into them.

Take a moment, though, to consider our mission and vision. We promote mountaineering through our programs, in order to create lifetimes of enjoying and protecting the mountains. My heroes at Mazamas—those members who inspire me—are the ones who continue, year after year, to explore the mountains not only in pursuit of personal growth, but also to share those experiences with others.

To all of us, spending time in the mountains is deeply important. It’s where we rejuvenate, “clean our slates free” as John Muir once said, and become energized for the future.

We also believe that people need to experience the outdoors in order to truly and deeply care about protecting our environment. Through leading activities, teaching classes and sharing stories, the Mazamas at its best is about sharing the experience of the mountains with others.

This is indeed what we uniquely do that benefits the public.

We enrich the human experience by sharing skills and personal growth experiences in the mountains with others. By actively creating these shared growth experiences in the mountains, we facilitate lifetimes of enjoying and protecting the mountains.

I wish you all a wonderful summer in the mountains, and I encourage you to continue sharing your experiences with others.

Lee Davis

New Mini-Course!

Intermediate Snow Climbing.

This new mini-course offering is ideal for BCEP graduates who want to increase their skill and techniques to negotiate higher-angle snow slopes. It’s a great way to gain Mazama Intermediate Climbing School level snow climbing skills without having to take ICS, or to refresh and upgrade your skills if it’s been a while since you’ve taken ICS. This mini-course involves two lectures and a two-day weekend field session. You’ll learn how to employ proper crampon and ice axe techniques to ascend, descend, and traverse high angle snow slopes. You’ll also learn how to properly construct and evaluate snow anchors, how to travel in rope teams to negotiate steep slopes and glaciated terrain, and how to employ protection techniques, including running belays, fixed line travel, belaying a lead climber, and rappelling in snow. Lectures are Aug. 5 and 8, and the field session weekend is Aug. 10 and 11 on Mt. Hood. Since this minicourse will occur in August, the snow should be firm and steep, offering a real high angle experience. Application deadline is Wednesday, July 31. To apply, and for more details, go to: http://tinyurl.com/mazamaminicoursesnow.

You can also contact the lead instructor, Steve Heikkila, at iceclimberasi@gmail.com

First Climb, continued from page 2 could see down into the maw of the crater.

The weather forecasted clear skies but, ever watchful of weather, I was concerned there would be high winds raking the summit. The amazing Indian Summer lasted just one more week and it turned out to be breezy but very pleasant. From the crater rim, the lava dome was bigger than I remembered it from the last time I was on the summit 15 years ago.

It seemed to fill most of the crater floor and there were a few active fumaroles along the eastern margin. The two elongate lobes of the crevassed Crater Glacier was something else new to me. Micah thought the view out over the crater to Spirit Lake and beyond to Mt. Rainier was “fantastic.” Helen and the rest of us lollygagged on the summit and enjoyed the sweet, juicy, ten-pound watermelon I packed up for the celebration.

Other people were celebrating too; one man proposed to his sweetheart while we were

4 —Mazama Bulletin

there (apparently, she said “yes”). Seeing first -ime climbers Micah, Helen, Kim, and Sam take in the summit view was my reward.

The way down was no less eventful. With no mountaineering experience upon which to draw, Helen found the tedious descent down the boulder field more difficult than the way up. We took our time, I guided her through the descent, and we eventually reached the established hiker’s trail in the diminishing light of dusk. Facing perhaps one of the biggest physical challenges of her seven plus decades, I was beyond impressed by her grit and enthusiasm as she giggled and shined the entire climb! Micah and Sam appeared to rather enjoy the decent as they scrambled and leapt down through the boulder field like gleeful billy goats making up their own games from the Harry Potter books deploying “floo powder” for magical transport. By the time we hit the hiker’s

trail, Micah and Sam, still full of energy, were playing commandos and regularly ambushed Ivan and I with sticks. Six-and a nine-year old boys can make a weapon out of anything.

It eventually got dark and we turned on headlamps. The adventure continued for the boys and Micah thought it was “no big deal” hiking out in the dark. He informed me that he had “57 percent of his energy left.” After fifteen and a half hours we were all back at the trailhead ready for our drive back to Portland. It was an amazing 7.8 mile round trip, 4,517 ft. gain, dark-to-dark, carto-car day and we all made it! I was gratified by all of the first time climbers. Their achievement is testament to their steel. I was exceedingly proud of Micah. If you don’t tell people what they can’t do, they can do amazing things.

Contact Us

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Upcoming: Monday, July 8: Financial Affairs Committee—Help Mazama classes and committees understand their money! If you have managed a budget before, join this committee to help prepare our annual budget and quarterly reforecasts and advise Executive Council on financial and accounting procedures or decisions.

Upcoming: July 29–Aug. 2 and Aug. 5–9: Adventure WILD day camp instructors—Adventure WILD, a benefit for Friends of Outdoor School, is holding two weeks of summer camp out of the MMC. They are looking for volunteers to put together three hours of fun programming for kids ages 4-11.

Take the kids through orienteering/ navigation, Leave No Trace, scavenger hunts, or a topic of your choice.

Contact Kati Mayfield if you’d like to participate, kati@mazamas.org.

Upcoming: Foundation Board Openings— The Mazama Foundation Board will be looking to fill two vacancies beginning fiscal year September 30, 2013. The mission of the Foundation is to invest and safeguard the assets of the permanent endowment. The board positions run for three consecutive oneyear terms. A financial background is very helpful and you must be at least a five-year Mazama member. If you are interested or have questions, please contact Rick Schmidt at rick_schmidt@ comcast.net.

Ongoing: Outreach Volunteer—Tell the world what you love about the Mazamas! The Outreach Team is seeking outreach volunteers to represent the Mazamas at various community events. This is a low time-commitment volunteer opportunity—you’ll receive one hour of training on our outreach strategy and material; then you can choose the events you want to go to. If you are interested, get in touch with Elizabeth Cole, Outreach Chair, outreach@mazamas.org.

Ongoing: Web Gurus—Help the Mazama Trail Trips Committee post its monthly hike schedule! Volunteers should be comfortable with the Windows operating system, internet browsers and basic HTML. Regular attendance at TTC meetings not required, though volunteers will need to receive training and communicate regularly with the committee to update the schedule. Contact TTC Chair, Jim Selby, selbyjb@comcast.net Ongoing: AYM Hike Leader or Committee Member—Are you an adventurous young Mazama? Do you like to hike, camp and be merry? The Adventurous Young Mazamas are looking for new members to join their ranks! Come on a hike to learn what they’re all about, check out the hike schedule at: http://www.mazamas. org/your/adventure/starts-here/C74/ or contact Chair Paul Kallmann, paul.kallmann@gmail.com, for more information about the committee.

Ongoing: Volunteer Photographers— Help parks in Washington monitor glacier activity! PCC Professor Frank Granshaw is training climbers to do panoramic photography and data gathering to begin modeling the activity of Washington’s Blue, Nisqually and Emmons glaciers. Contact Frank at fgransha@pcc.edu of you’re interested in participating.

Summer Volunteer Opportunities: Sunday, Aug. 18: Lead a Family Hike at Mirror Lake Trailhead—Mazama families will be enjoying an overnight at the Mazama Lodge Sunday, Aug. 18–Monday, Aug. 19, and would like to do a short hike before heading down to the lodge for dinner and campfire. Hike Leaders— bring your family and lead our hike!

Contact Bob Murphy, bob_murphy@ hotmail.com for details.

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m.

Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Member Services and Operations Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing & Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Membership Secretary (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Max Rupert—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription price $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month.

If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month.

Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 70 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

July 2013—5

News & Notes Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Max Rupert, 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

The lodge has only a few guests staying overnight July 2–7 and we also have a lot of availability July 26–31.

These dates would be great times to plan a summer visit to the lodge. One of our longtime members just spent four nights with us and each day was spent down at Trillium Lake to enjoy the incredible views and terrific fishing. On his second day of fishing he was competing with a bald eagle that caught a fish only a few yards from were he was standing.

Remember the lodge is open seven days a week during the summer. You can review our dinner menu (right) so you can plan ahead!

Summer-time dinner is served at 6:30 p.m. with appetizers available at 6 p.m.

We still have available space for our Badger Creek Chuckwagon July 19–21. We provide the transportation and meals-exploring one of the least visited Wilderness areas of Mt. Hood. Register

online for this great weekend trip.

Looking ahead to August: On Sunday, Aug. 18 there will be a Mazama Family event at the lodge. Check out the related article in the Bulletin.

Aug. 20–23: Hike Week.

Each morning we have a hike leaving from the lodge at 8 a.m. Spend the night at the lodge and join us for one of these great day hikes.

Friday, Aug. 23 Let author, hiker and a 25-year Mazama member, Sonia Buist, guide you on a breathtaking journey along Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail.

Sonia will be showing slides of the Timberline Trail at 8 p.m. and talking about her book: Around & About Mount Hood with it’s new 2013 edition. This is a free program and open to all!

Come early and join us for dinner starting at 6:30 p.m.

Dinner is $12.60.

Mazama Lodge Summer Dinner Menu Monday Vegetable Platter Pizza Salad Bar Roasted Veggies S’mores Tuesday Cheese Fondue Grilled Chicken w/ Lemon Mixed Green Salad Sauteed Carrots Braised Cabbage Mashed Potatoes Wednesday Antipasto Ziti Pasta Tomato & Alfredo Sauce Grilled Veggies Caesar Salad Garlic Bread Ice Cream Thursday Pita Bread & Hummus Greek Chicken Couscous Salad Baba Ghanouj Tzatziki Sauce Spinach & Feta Salad Baklava

Friday Artichoke Spinach Dip Grilled Trout Roasted Red Potatoes Coleslaw Sauteed Onions & Chickpeas Homemade Bread Ice Cream Sundaes Saturday California Rolls Thai Chicken Curry Vegan Tofu Curry Brown Rice Spinach Salad Chocolate-Dipped Fortune Cookies Sunday Chips & Salsa Grilled Flank Steak Spanish Beans & Rice Cheese Quesadilla Flan

ut! n O o s a s i w M k huc C Don’t k e r Cre e g d Ba July 19–Sunday, July 21 end Friday, Join your Mazama leaders Mitch, Rick, David and Greg for a wonderful weekend in the Badger Week Creek Wilderness. Enjoy spectacular views from the eastern foothills of Mt. Hood on this hike that includes natural rock gardens, wildflowers, cliff-edged viewpoints and an enchanting hike along Badger Creek with old growth, green-pooled cascades and oak-fringed cliffs. Participation is limited. If you have additional questions, email Rick Amodeo at ricka@aaieng.com. If you would like to sign-up, go to the Mazama Lodge webpage and click on the Badger Creek signup.

Link at http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C556/

Membership Benefits Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Eddie Bauer (online and all locations) 40% off First Ascent Line with their Pro Discount card (see our website) Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books (www. mountaineersbooks.org use code MZORE) 20% Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% non-sale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularlypriced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly-priced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, OR) 10% U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

AYM Activities The Adventurous Young Mazamas leads activities year round targeted those in their 20s, 30s, early 40s, and of course anyone who is “Young at Heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

by Paul Kallman

This month, we are featuring a story about one of our hike leaders and committee members, Beth Copeland, and her experience with the Adventurous Young Mazamas: “Two years ago, on a whim, I decided to climb Mount St. Helens (MSH) with a friend.

It was early October and the first snows of the season had already arrived. We got a late start and by the time we made it to the weather station, we decided that we needed to turn around. On the way down the trail we met a Mazama group that had sumitted earlier in the day and I instantly knew that I would be coming back to MSH! Last summer I signed up with the Hike-to-the-Summit Program and climbed Mount St. Helens with climb leader Bruce Yatvin. It just so happens that I also saw that an AYM hike was being led to Indian Heaven the day before my climb and thought that it would be fun to meet other Mazamas, particularly those in my age group.

The AYM hike leader, Paul Kallmann, talked to everyone on the hike about the climbs, classes, and committees that the Mazamas offers, and about all the activities that AYM offers throughout the year. I summitted MSH the next day and our climb leader cajoled us up the mountain by cheerfully asking us, “Is it time to reconsider you life choices?” In the year following that first AYM hike and my climb of MSH, I have reconsidered a variety of my “life choices.” I’ve become an AYM hike leader, I lead climb night for AYM at Club Sport every month from November through May, I have taken a nordic ski class, completed BCEP, and joined the AYM committee. I’ve hiked or climbed with most of the people who were on my first AYM hike multiple times (including another private summit climb of MSH).

Whenever I want to get outside and explore, or whenever I want to learn something new, there is an amazing group of people in AYM who are helping to make those experiences possible. I’m glad to be part of this group.

I encourage all of you who are in your 20s, 30s, and into your early 40s to check out AYM if you haven’t already. AYM is a fun and exciting group and we would love to have you aboard on any of our activities. Our current schedule is on our website at tinyurl. com/mazamaaym . Also, if you would like to volunteer for AYM, we are always looking for hike leaders. Email aym@mazamas.org for more information.”

Saturday July 6—Hike: Ape Canyon Ape Canyon Trail #234 traverses several ridges and gullies in both old-growth forest and the 1980 blast zone of Mount St, Helens. We’ll have views of Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and Ape Creek Canyon (and maybe a mountain goat).

At the Plains of Abraham we’ll turn around and return the way that we came. Bring plenty of sun protection and gaiters in case we encounter any lingering snow patches. Hike: 11 miles RT, 2,500 ft. Drive: 120 miles RT. Meet at Gateway Transit Center at 8 a.m. Leader: Beth Copeland Saturday, July 20—Hike: Cape Horn The Cape Horn Trail is open again! The trail closes each year from Feb. 1 until July 15 to protect nesting peregrine falcons. The trail offers great views of the Gorge and will also involve some route finding, crossing several creeks, walking on old forest roads, and a one-mile walk on Cape Horn Road to complete the loop.

Print out a map of the trail at home and be prepared to brush up on your navigation skills.

Hike: 7 miles RT, 1,500 ft. gain. Drive: 60 miles RT, Meet at Gateway Transit Center at 8 a.m.

Leader: Beth Copeland Monday, July 29—AYM Committee Meeting Come join AYM for our monthly committee meeting. The AYM Committee meets the last Monday of every month to review past activites, plan new ones, and discuss how to make AYM even more fun and exciting for all who attend our activities. Meet at the MMC, 6:30–8 p.m. in the upstairs conference room. All are welcome to attend. After our meeting, we often go out to enjoy a malted beverage.

Saturday, August 3—Hike: Jefferson Park in one day *ADVANCE SIGN-UP REQUIRED* Join AYM for an exploration of perhaps the most beautiful place in Oregon. Check out the website for more details. Hike: 11.6 miles, 2,000 ft. Drive: 230 miles. Email leader to sign up and get details on meetup location and driving directions. Leader: Matt Reeder Fri-Mon, Aug 30–Sep 2—Camping/Hiking: Eagle Cap Wilderness An AYM tradition returns! We’ll spend Labor Day weekend camping in Wallowa Lake State Park. We’ll hike by day and hang out by night. Plan on a full holiday weekend of hikes, explorations, friendship, pancakes and minigolf. Sign up early to assure your spot! Leaders: Matt Reeder and Karl Langenwalter

July 2013—7

Fire & Ice on Mt. Hood Part I: Fire

by Sonia Buist

Who would ever imagine that hiking up Mazama, Vista Ridge or Elk Cove Trails, burned to a crisp in the Dollar Lake Fire in 2012, would be so memorable and enjoyable? Of all the hikes I did on Mt. Hood last summer, these hikes through the dead and dying trees left the most lasting images in my mind.

I’ve pondered on this as at first I was reluctant to even go into the area burned by the Dollar Fire. It seemed too sad, too dusty, too uninteresting. Well, it was sad, and it was dusty but it was certainly not uninteresting. To the contrary, it was fascinating, a photographer’s dream and a never-to-be-forgotten lesson in how nature heals itself after a forest fire.

When we see the apparent devastation that results from an extensive forest fire, we grieve for the loss of the pristine wilderness, our favorite trails, the animals that live there, and other changes in the ecology of the forest. But fire plays a crucial role in the life cycle of forests and all of the elements are still there to allow the forest to be re-born.

The Dollar Lake Fire on the north side of Mt. Hood was started by lightning in Aug. 2011 and quickly spread to burn more than 6,300 acres before it was extinguished. The major damage was to the access trails. The Timberline Trail itself sustained less damage and amazingly there are areas that were in the path of the fire that were essentially untouched. This patchwork burning is typical of a woodland fire and is a result of the fire burning hotter where there are numerous dead trees or downed wood that fuel the fires—such as a forest that is predominantly Douglas fir and dry sunny ridges. Such an extensive fire in a predominantly Douglas fir forest only occurs every 300–400 years. Incredibly, some of the most beautiful sections of the Timberline Trail, such as Eden Park, Cairn Basin, Elk Cove, Wy’East Basin and Dollar Lake were virtually untouched.

One of the positive results of the fires that occurred is that the views from the access trails on the north side of Mt. Hood and on parts of the Timberline Trail are even more stunning. We can observe the fascinating process of recovery, and gain a deeper understanding of how exactly recovery happens. Until the forest recovers, the trails will be blackened and dusty but we will have

Photos by Debbie Asakawa (clockwise, from upper left): View from ZigZag Canyon. A beautiful stretch of trail. Avalanche lilies return in greater profusion. Beargrass come up the next year. Lupins are fastest flowers to recover after a fire.

the rare opportunity to observe firsthand the amazing recovery process with the dead trees gradually shedding their bark in long peeling strips, revealing a cambium that is often a brilliant chestnut color. If more than 25 percent of the cambium dies, the Douglas fir will probably die. If a tree dies completely, the limbs fall off and the tree falls over. This may take up to 20 years.

The sequence of the re-growth of the trees is carefully orchestrated. First comes the Lodgepole Pine which needs a forest fire to melt the resin coating on the cones, allowing the cones to open and release the seeds. The seedlings of the Lodgepole Pine can regenerate in two to three years and, as it’s a fast growing tree, it provides shade for the young Douglas Firs which are slower to grow and profit from the protection of the taller Lodgepole Pine.

Another of the positive results is that the flowers and the undergrowth don’t wait for the trees to keel over; they start their recovery immediately. Unlike the trees, many shrubs, flowers and grasses are protected from the lethal temperatures by the soil covering if their roots aren’t too shallow. The first to pop up are the wildflowers, which appear in ever greater abundance right on cue the following spring or summer as the snow melts. The avalanche lilies last summer put on a spectacular display with their snowy white windmill tops fluttering in the breeze. The undergrowth and brush start to come up almost immediately as well.

I encourage anyone interested in experiencing the cycle of fire and recovery to go up to see it for yourself this summer. And the views are even better!

Join us next month to read the final installment of this article—Ice. Sonia Buist has been a Mazama member for over 25 years.

She is a physician, researcher and teacher at Oregon Health & Sciences University. Details about Mt. Hood, the Timberline Trail and the author’s latest 2013 book titled: Around & About Mount Hood: Exploring the Timberline Trail, Access Trails, and Day Hikes and her other hiking guide of the Mt. Hood area, Hikes & Walks on Mt. Hood, can be found at: wwwMt.hoodhiking.com and at the MMC.

Mazamas Enjoy Utah!

Photos (clockwise from left): Coyote Gulch, also in the Grand Staircase-Escalanete National Monument, taken during a Mazama Outing. Photo: Byron Rendar. It’s a long way down! Rappeling fun Utah slot canyons. Photo: Vaqas Malik. U-Turn Canyon—with Ankush Varma, Brinda Ganesh and Alexander Smirnov. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

Women Find Equality in the Mountains—Pre-1900 During the latter half of the Victorian era, mountaineering as a recreational activity rose in popularity amongst both men and women. Complementing an extended amount of leisure time with spiritualist zeal, mountaineering provided women with equality between the public and domestic spheres.

by Sarah Carswell

In 1895 Mt. Pitt inhospitably accommodated several Pacific Northwesterners, including women, intent on reaching the summit. However, facing harsh conditions and dwindling supplies it was decided that the party should descend. Miss Fay Fuller was not deterred, deciding to continue with or without her companions. Defying strong opposition from the other climbers, she successfully completed her solitary journey to the summit.

Fuller’s companions had attempted to utilize social constructions characteristic of the public and domestic spheres to argue for her descent. Yet the gap between the spheres had already begun to close.

Women gradually entered the public sphere as teachers, nurses and secretaries.

Nevertheless, men dominated the vocational sphere.

Being subjected to the ideology of domesticity, women were expected to be submissive, humble and pious. Their role in the domestic sphere was as caretakers of the household. Women in the growing middle class, however, gained more leisure time. Being able to afford servants, middle class ladies did not have to perform domestic duties such as cleaning.

Still expected to submit to domesticity, women pursued leisure activities that followed suit. In the Pacific Northwest, women avidly participated in the Mazama Mountaineering Club. Fay Fuller was one woman in particular who used mountaineering as a new platform to break the barrier between public and domestic spheres in the late Victorian period.

A “back to nature” movement inspired by the spiritual fervor during the height of the Industrial Revolution provided women an opening to experience equality in the outdoors. The Mazama Mountaineering Club presented numerous opportunities for equality amidst some limitation.

Women were permitted and encouraged to participate on all climbs. The only requirement for membership to the organization was to reach “a summit on whose sides is a living glacier.” Yet with many of the climbs being scientifically driven, women were not as involved in the

climbs where geological experiments were performed. Women were also excluded from being party leaders on treks. However, they were allowed to be officers of the club.

Two out of the four first vice presidents were even women. Male and female club members moreover, shared supplies equally.

All had the same food and used the same equipment in scaling the rough terrain.

Women had a slightly harder time since they were climbing in floor-length skirts and dresses whereas men had pants to go along with their tie and jacket. Reaching the summit in those hazardous conditions is truly an amazing feat.

Miss Fay Fuller was one woman who became deeply involved with the Mazamas.

Being one of the Vice Presidents and active on many of the expeditions, she took her mountaineering experiences and applied them to enter the public sphere. Even before joining the Mazamas, Fuller showed her determined spirit by being the first woman to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier. She set an example for many women to follow. She demonstrated that women are able to climb mountains, proving them just as capable as men. This strength also validates women’s ability to hold their ground in the larger public sphere. Mountaineering brought equality, allowing women to break the barrier between the public and domestic sphere.

Having broken gender barriers in mountaineering, Fuller went on to break others. She progressed beyond mountaineering in her leisure time and secured several jobs in the workplace.

Being a teacher for several years, Fuller decided that she wanted to expand her influence. Already in the public eye for her Mt. Rainier accomplishment, she used her reputation as a hard-working individual alongside her connection to the network of newspapers in the Tacoma area securing a place as the first newspaper woman in the Tacoma area. She was highly successful working as a correspondent on the waterfront.

Interestingly her time as a reporter

opened a door for her next job as the first harbor mistress of Tacoma. Having learned the duties and information on the department, she was prepared when the harbor master fell ill. Although there was opposition at first, it quickly transformed into admiration. Fuller was so successful in this new position that “some of the water front men of Tacoma have suggested that Hofflin [the original harbor master] might be shanghaied!” However, the old harbor master did recover, resuming his post and Fuller returned to reporting for the Tacoma Ledger.

Fuller’s use of mountaineering as a platform was new for the 1890s. It gave her an opportunity to experience equality and be active in the public sphere rather than be chained to domestic duties. The Mazamas exemplified gender fairness, though it had occasional drawbacks.

Ultimately, mountaineering was a part of the movement for women to surmount social constructions associated with their gender.

w o r n d w s o . r i e h In t

Masks on at the top of the Palmer on Mt. Hood.

in the a BCEP m a z a M g cier f attendin iley (Gla rivilege o nt of Daniel Ba p the e h th it d w I ha stude active a s n e a e , tion and b 3 s 1 f 20 ho ha l of devo w e v e n le o spring o e y g r th Like eve ed with d climbin Snakes!) n, I was impress , preparation an uctors and tio er instr training organiza n to the thusiastic volunte e iv g n o attenti y of en zing. he facult etty ama at the events. T structors was pr proach th oors p a c ti s li in o td assistant ll is the h indeed to the ou azing sti , t a th s m More am mountaineering y nd tea a s e to te s s the ver e it a k as well e comm r , group ta s a e ie e th r it e v h th ti ac bo es. T outdoor ack country, for themselv types of b d first ll n e a a th te ty g o fe in prom nce, sa explor a f n o te y ies, skillin it it a il b rail m rt activ T o . p sustaina s le p izamas o lt e u the p on, m ers—Ma n ti d c il te u o b r p y land and l it a onmenta commun t it means to be aid, envir am builders and b ha m w li f c o e s n W te ensio nity. “ im u d m builders, e m it th o , c tion ding to tdoors organiza keeps ad cipant in the ou limbing c a ti r r a fo p active e motto ’t just th . re alive! high” isn ell be a lifestyle eat cultu w r g y r a e v h c y u ma ing s for keep Thanks

Sabraw

by Josh

On May 4, mountain guide, Himalayan climber, photographer and author Andy Selters (facing in blue) offered expert instruction at the Mazama crevasse rescue class on Mt. Hood.

Photos (Left Page): Top—A young Fay Fuller. Bottom—Summit party atop Mt. McLoughlin. Fay is in the white bonnet. Photos: Mazama Archives.

July 2013—11

Council Corner

Talking About Money

by Doug Couch, Mazama President

Sixty thousand dollars a month: In round numbers that’s what the Mazama’s budget breaks down to, totaling $705,582 this year. Managing the budget is one of the biggest responsibilities the Executive Council deals with and it’s worth looking at where all that money goes as well as where it comes from. Neither is an obvious or simple matter for an organization of our size.

Our biggest expense is people: the staff in the office and those who do work on contract. That takes over $250,000 a year in salary and benefits. Given the nature of our activities, no one should be surprised that we pay a lot for insurance, budgeted this year for nearly $100,000. The value of our personnel became all the more clear this year when Executive Director Lee Davis worked out a new insurance contract that will save us more than $25,000 per year for better coverage.

The council and staff are always looking for ways to get more value for our money!

Operating our facilities eats up a lot of money. We pay up to a $1,000 a month for electricity, plus heat, plus telephones and computer service, plus water and sewer and on and on as any home owner can imagine. This year we have been fretting over the cost of painting our lodge. It’s work that needs to be done to preserve that asset, but the low bid came in at over $30,000. We decided to spread the work over two years to lessen the blow but like any sort of building maintenance it can’t be avoided entirely.

Because of the not-for-profit nature of our organization, we give away around $30,000 in grants for conservation and research projects. The responsible committees screen proposals in line with our mission. It is no accident that the first three honorary Mazamas chosen in 1894 included two geologists and the conservationist John Muir. Study and preservation of the areas where we climb and hike is a central reason for our existence, not a luxury. If we could give more we would like to find room in our budget.

Where does all this money come from?

For most clubs the primary answer would be dues. With a little more than 3,000 members and a top rate of $60 per year the most we could look to from dues would be $180,000. Because of various arrangements for families and for longtime members we actually budget for $150,000 a year from dues. So through their dues, our current members pay less than a quarter of what it costs to run the Mazamas.

The generosity of past and present Mazamas has created a fund managed by the Mazama Foundation, a separate organization created to support the purposes of our club. Their board of

“

come from the full range of classes that Mazamas puts on. BCEP alone earned over $82,000 this year. We should be proud of our research and conservation investments, but providing our community with over 200 people trained to anticipate and prepare for what they might encounter in the mountain environment has to be the biggest contribution to the community that the Mazamas makes year in and year out.

Most of our other educational efforts build on that base, and the classes are all put on by volunteers. That is why we on the staff and Executive Council have to pay the same attention to managing that resource for the long term as the foundation board does to managing investments. We have members who have donated their time and skill to generations of new climbers, including some who have worked with BCEP for more than 20 years. Other classes can boast of the similar dedication among instructors. We can never afford to take that asset for granted when we start looking at dollars and cents in a budget.

This year we took the unusual step of dipping into our financial reserves for $34,000.

To meet a high priority of the Strategic Plan we hired a Volunteer Manager to allow us to add members without diluting the services we make available.

Additional members are expected to make this position pay for itself in a few years, and we have reserves we can draw on to balance the budget without endangering our financial security. Prior years of prudent fiscal management have provided us with that security. We will be monitoring the success of this effort as we move to next year’s budget.

As you will read about elsewhere in this issue and will hear a great deal about in coming months, the Mazamas is looking at opportunities that will affect our budgeting and our future activities. As we move forward, we will keep a close eye on our budget as well as on our membership.

These are two resources that we count on as the Mazamas moves into our 120th year.

The generosity of past and present Mazamas has created a fund managed by the Mazama Foundation, a separate organization created to support the purposes of our club.

directors invests a permanent endowment and transfers a portion of the annual earnings to the club. This year the distribution from the foundation is $106,812. The amount varies with the state of the economy but we are quite pleased to see the investment portion of the economy has been doing quite well lately!

The foundation also owns the Mazama Mountaineering Center building, their first real estate investment. Contributions to the Mazamas or remembrances in wills and trusts are most conveniently made directly to the foundation, since they end up managing the funds in our interest. You are likely to hear more on that topic in coming months. The Mazama Foundation has its own website, mazamasfoundation. org, if you want to know more about them.

A larger share than either dues or distributions from the foundation is earned by our volunteers through our education programs. We budgeted $183,330 to

Mazama Families it forms a perfect mirror for the south side of Mt. Hood. We will dip our toes in the cool mountain lake and head back to the Mazama Lodge for games, dinner, campfire with s’mores and stay over night if you aren’t ready to head back to town. Come for all or part of the day! Contact families@mazamas.org for more info.

Meet: 1 p.m. at Mirror Lake Trail. 3 miles roundtrip, 782 ft of elevation change.

Additional activities: 3 p.m. for games at the Mazama Lodge; 5 p.m. for dinner; 7 p.m. for campfire and smores. (NW Forest Pass required).

by Bob Murphy

On Wednesday, June 12 we had over 50+ infants, toddlers, kids and parents attend our first Mazama Families gathering which we held at the SE Hopworks! It was great to see incredible enthusiasm and support for the new group, catch up with old friends and make new like-minded acquaintances. Some folks said they are now inspired to become a leader so they can lead family hikes and climbs! Drop us a line at families@mazamas. org, for more info or to Climb #151: Sat, Sep. 5— join our mailing list.

Plummer Peak (Grade:A(C) (F)) Currently we Leader:Ray Sheldon have several activities (rbshldn@pacifier.com) scheduled (with many more in the works for Hike: Sat, Sep 21—Hike to the summer and fall!).

Wahclella Falls Visit www.tinyurl.com/ Wahclella Falls is an excellent mazamafamilies for more hike with lots to offer: a up to date offerings and modest hike through a info. sheltered canyon, a booming Proud Mazama Papas. Ryan & Emma McCoy and Keith & Kember Climb #57: Fri-Sun, Jul waterfall, pools to play Langenwalter in the foreground, Jerry & Fletcher Adams in the right 26-28—Old Snowy via in, and spawning salmon background.

Photo: Bob Murphy.

Snowgrass Flats (Grade: in season. There are some A+) sections of trail with major Leader: Richard Caldwell drop-offs, so if you have a (rdccpa@qwestoffice.net) walking child, be sure to watch him or her closely. Leader: John Grade:A+ Godino Hike: Sunday, Aug. 18—Kid-centric hike to Mirror Lake, then off Meet: 11 a.m. at Wahclella Falls TH, I-84 east-bound Exit 40 (Map) (NW Forest Pass required); 2 miles roundtrip; 300 ft of to the lodge for games and dinner. Leader: Jim Selby (selbyjb@ elevation change. comcast.net ) Join us for a cool trip to the mountain during the dog days of summer. Short but sweet hike to Mirror Lake, so-called because

Mazama Bulletin

503-227-2345 • mazama.ads@mazamas.org

Retail Advertising Rates

Discovery and Challenge Mazamas members receive $100 off any 5-10 day course, $200 off any course longer than 10 days.

Call Northwest Outward Bound at 828.239.2359 www.nwobs.org Photo: Joel Reid

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July 2013—13

Adventure Travel local • national • International 2013

Hiking Glacier National Park July 28–Aug. 3, 2013 Full/Alternates Only See January Bulletin for more information.

Exploring Idaho’s Mountains Aug. 4–17, 2013 Join us on a climbing and backpacking outing to Idaho.

One segment will be in the Seven Devils Wilderness, another in the Sawtooths, and the last at Mt. Borah. Backpacking will be moderate in distance and pace.

Climbs will be nontechnical scrambles to class 3 maximum.

See the Mazama website for more detailed information: tinyurl.com/mazamaoutings.

A $50 deposit is due by June 15, 2013. Contact leader Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284, breivog@teleport.com or co-leader: Paul Steger, 503-2812443, paulsteger@q.com.

Wallowa Mountain Trek August 18–24, 2013 Full/Alternates Only See June Bulletin for more information.

Redwoods Hiking Experience Aug. 25–31, 2013 Join Bob Smith and Marty Hanson for five days of hiking in the magnificent Redwood Forest of the northern California coast.

Daily A-and B-level hikes will take place in Redwood National Park and three adjoining California state parks. Emphasis will be placed on the history of the area, as well as the biological, geological, and cultural diversity that abounds.

See the Mazama website for more detailed information:

14 —Mazama Bulletin

tinyurl.com/mazamaoutings.

Contact Bob at rzs.vyg@ frontier.com for an application and to reserve your place.

The outing is limited to 28 participants. Payment is due with the completed application.

Yosemite National Park/High Sierra Camping, Hiking and Backpacking Aug. 26–Sep. 8, 2013 This outing is mainly a carcamping and day-hiking (from the campground base) trip, with a four-day backpack into Yosemite National Park high country mixed in. While on the backpack, we will hike to the top of Clouds Rest and Half Dome (via the cable route). For those who have never been to one of our country’s most beautiful national parks, this is a great opportunity.

See the Mazama website for more detailed information: tinyurl.com/mazamaoutings.

Outing Leader: Bill Dewsnap, Assist: Rex Breunsbach. Contact leader for more information: billdewsnap@yahoo.com / 503260-6712

Backpack and Climb in the Trinity Alps Sept. 15–21, 2013 Come spend six days in the spectacular alpine wilderness of the Trinity Alps in northern California, and hopefully we’ll bag a few peaks, as well.

The Trinity’s are like the Wallowas on steroids, with far fewer people. Typically in September the weather is perfect and the bugs are all gone. This area is oddly little-known to Portlanders, but it’s amazing.

See the Mazama website for more detailed information: tinyurl.com/mazamaoutings.

outings

Contact leader Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com or 971227-2059) or assistant Gary Beck (glbeck01@comcast.net) for details.

China–Tibet Sept. 29–Oct. 19, 2013 Join us on an amazing spiritual, cultural and scenic journey to the most sacred mountain in Asia. The full trip begins in the ancient capital city of Xian, China. In Xian we view the Terra Cotta Warriors and hike up spectacular Hua Shan (Mountain). Then we board the coolest train ever for our trip to Lhasa, Tibet. In Lhasa, we tour the Potala and other famous monasteries, the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor and associated sites.

From Lhasa we proceed by land cruiser west to Gyantse, Shigatse, Lhatse, and on to western Tibet’s Lake Manasarovar and then to Mt. Kailash where we will do a three-day kora or trek around the sacred mountain. From Mt. Kailash we’ll return to Lhasa by the scenic southern route through the Himalayas, including a visit to the North Ridge Everest Base Camp and a tour of the Sakya Monastery.

There are two trip options: The entire 21-day China-Tibet trip (Sept. 29–Oct. 19) costs approx. $4,200–$4,500, or the 16-day Tibet-only trip (Oct. 4–19, begins and ends in Lhasa) costs approx. $3,700–$4,000.

Airfare is not included. Group size will be 10–15. The deposit is $500.

For more info, an itinerary or an application, contact trip leader Joe Whittington (joewhittington@ gmail.com, 503-297-6344). Our assistant leader is Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@gmail.com, 503939-9657).

Trekking in Patagonia Feb. 8–22, 2014 At the southern end of the

Want to go on an outing?

Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check.

As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www. s e a t t l e m o u n t a i n e e r s. o r g , Colorado Mountain Club—www. cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club— www.americanalpineclub.org.

Earth lies a wide, windswept, wonderful land called Patagonia.

Though it’s technically in both Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is a place of its own, a land of calving glaciers, vast lakes, awesome steppes and peaks so jagged and immense they pause the mind and stir the heart.

Patagonia calls to the adventure traveler and mainly to the hiker.

Once in Patagonia, we will spend two weeks doing both day hikes and multi-day hikes both in Chile and Argentina.

We’ll day-hike into the mighty range of peaks dominated by Monte Fitz Roy, an 11,020-ft. tower whose sheer face of more than 6,000 ft. makes it one of the world’s most challenging climbs. We’ll also catch views of the Continental Ice Field and even walk on the surface of the sprawling Perito Moreno Glacier.

In Chile we visit the Torres del Paine National Park. Here lie the famous Towers of Paine. In the park, we’ll hike hut-to-hut for five days along the “W” Circuit (named for its shape), winding in and out of spectacular mountain valleys, past Grey Glacier and up the spectacular French Valley, surrounded by hanging glaciers and an amphitheater of granite walls and spires.

Contact donovan@ embarkadventures.com for more details. $3995 per person

continued on next page

Membership Report • May 2013

Applications for Membership: .27 Ronald Benton—Mount St. Helens Michael D. Bergeron—Mount St. Helens Nick J. Block—Mt. Rainier Trent Carlisle—Mount St. Helens Tim S. Collins—Mt. Hood Bryan Colombo—Mount St. Helens Dennis A. Damici—Mount St. Helens Newell “Scotland” Forbes—Mt. Shasta Sue G. Griffith—Mt. Kilimanjaro Sarah G. Holmes—Mount St. Helens Lisa Hull—Mt. Adams Brad R. Hulquist—Mount St. Helens Alicia A. Imbody—Mount St. Helens David M. Jacobs—Mt. Hood Brandon S. Keezer—Mt. Raineer Timothy W. McDowell—Mt. Adams Jeewan Negi—Mount St. Helens Shivani Negi—Mount St. Helens Ken J. Park—Mount St. Helens Hal Paver—Mount St. Helens Jaime P. Placeres—Iztaccihuatl Stacey A. Redinton—Mount St. Helens Darin M. Richardson—Mount St. Helens Cyndy K. Rutto—Mount St. Helens Jonathan D. Skeen—Mount St. Helens Mason F. Smith—Mt. Hood Brad W. Zeiger—Mt. Rainier

Reinstatements: ���������������������� 4 Bill Hauger (1972), Don L. Layman (1981), Matthew Sundling (2011), Ida Thorbek (2001)

Mazama Museum—Then & Now

by Vera Dafoe, Museum Curator

The Mazama Museum was one year old in 1971 and had received 27 donations. Ten of them had come from one member, John Scott.

He is the author of We Climb High, a 1964 year-by-year summary of Mazama history.

By 2013 the museum has received 4,800 objects. Many of these are small, even tiny, such as a Mazama emblem gold ring, satin fabric summit certificates and an extensive collection of climbing hardware.

The largest objects we have when assembled are some of the tents.

Storage restrictions dictate what we can accept.

Presently, an exhibit in the MMC Holman Auditorium features the 1971 collection of 27 objects. A pair of 62-inch long Athabascan Indian Snowshoes from pre-1918 are impressive in scale. There are four alpenstocks, an 1898 coffeepot, a canvas wash basin, a pack with a wicker basket insert, and others.

When the museum was launched in 1970, donors eagerly brought in antiquated camping and mountaineering equipment they or their ancestors had used. Members and non-members continue to add treasures to the largest mountaineering museum in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. What pieces do you have that might do well in our museum?

Deceased:............................... 1

Classified Advertising

Total Membership

These listings are paid advertisements. The Mazamas is not responsible for their content.

Charles “Bud” Young

Net New Members ���������������� 31 May 31, 2013:..................3,289 May 31, 2012:..................3,166

Must Sell 9ft 6 “ fiberglass trolling boat with mahogany trim. Includes EZ loader trailer,oars and Honda four stroke portable 2 HP motor. Call Helen at 503-254-9465 or email wildnotion@hotmail.com.

Outings, continued from previous page Corsica.

excluding air fare. Need a minimum of eight people to go.

Corsica Long-Distance Hiking 2014 June 14–30, 2014 Seeking a long-distance hike with spectacular scenery, culture and typically great summer weather?

The GR20, “One of the top trails in the world” according to outdoor writer Paddy Dillon, winds 125 miles along the crest of the island of Corsica. This is not a plodalong-with-mind-on-something-else kind of a trail, but a rocky and varying high route with scrambling options and both alpine and ocean views. Using a local company as outfitters we will carry only day packs and sleep in refuges or set tents, enjoying

simple local cuisine at group meals. 16 days of hiking, with the longest day being 13 miles and 3,300 ft. ascent, and highest altitude 7,300 ft. We will hike from south to north, leaving the climactic Cirque de la Solitude for the second week, and enjoying the best light for photography.

The island of Corsica, administered as part of France but with its own unique culture, makes a destination both accessibly western-European and yet exotically Mediterranean. Trip leader speaks French and both leader and assistant have led European tours and hiked long-distance trails. Group size 8 to 10, outing costs $3,000 plus airfare, $500 deposit.

Leader: Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@ gmail.com), Assistant Leader: Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com)

July 2013—15

N A R O F IN US

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m. . p 9 – 6 . 21, g nter u e A C , y g a n i d r s Wedne Mountainee a n Mazam 3rd Avenue as Foundatio 4 527 SE by the Mazam Hosted

16 —Mazama Bulletin

Find out about it.

Give us your input.

Stay involved.

A Look Ahead at ICS 2013–2014

by Gary Ballou, ICS 13/14 Coordinator

At last the summer climbing season is in full swing. Time to get out and climb!

Which of these phrases best describes you?

“I just took BCEP and loved it. Now if I could just get on more climbs.”

“Those ICS grads who helped my BCEP class really knew their stuff--I wish I could learn what they did!”

“I’ve hiked and backpacked my whole life and now I want to expand my horizons to include climbing mountains.”

“I’ve wanted to take ICS for years, but I’ve been intimidated by the time commitment.”

There are lots of reasons to want to take the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), and I’m hoping this will be the year you finally decide to take that step. You will get state-of-theart instruction in rock anchors and climbing techniques when you join other students climbing at Smith Rock State Park, then feast on our famous potlucks. You will practice skills in Right: Todd Perimon and Gary Bishop at Timberline. Photo: Gary Ballou. navigation, first aid, and avalanche awareness. You will hone Left: Brian Wetzel at Smith Rock State Park. Photo: Steve Heikkila your crevasse rescue skills and crampon technique on snow up at Timberline Lodge, and bask in the amazing hospitality at Mazama Lodge. You will bring all your skills to bear in mock course that will give you the skills to be a strong assistant on rescue scenarios, where anything can happen.

Mazama climbs, and put together your own private climbs. Along Perhaps most of all, you will have fun! You will form strong the way you may choose to take the next steps in climbing, whether bonds with your fellow students—and assistants—that will last long it is enrolling in Advanced Rock or Advanced Snow and Ice, or after the class has ended. ICS is an intensive, challenging, rewarding beginning the Climb Leader Development program. Some of my

Let author, hiker and a 25-year Mazama member, Sonia Buist, guide you on a breathtaking journey along Mt. Hood's Timberline Trail. The trail is one of the most spectacular hiking trails in the world and it's just an hour from Portland.

Stunning Vistas Dramatic Waterfalls Beautiful Streams Alpine Meadows Wildflowers Peace, Joy, Inspiration New 2013 Edition For details and to purchase: www.mthoodhiking.com

most rewarding moments come when I watch new ICS grads return the following year to help teach new ICS students!

After four years participating in ICS, I’ve watched as the students’ skills reached new levels, even as the potlucks, camaraderie, and fun have risen. If you’ve heard about all the things we do to make your year in ICS one to remember, just wait until we unveil what we’ve got in store for this year! Please join ICS 201314 Coordinator Gary Ballou and Assistant Coordinator Dan Gerbus on Tuesday, Aug. 6 at 7 p.m. in the MMC Holman Auditorium for ICS Information Night. We’ll provide pizza and IMPORTANT DATES: • Thursday, Aug. 1—ICS Application forms open online • Tuesday, Aug. 6—ICS Information Night • Friday, Aug. 16—Application deadline • Thursday, Aug. 15 & Wednesday, Aug. 21—ICS Skills Test • Monday, Aug. 26—Notification of acceptance • Tuesday, Sept. 3—First lecture and payment due beverages, and answer any questions you may have about ICS. Learn more here: tinyurl.com/mazamaics

July 2013—17

Beacon Rock’s Past, Present & Future

by Adam Baylor

during prime climbing months, when the rock is cool and dry, Beacon is simply not ast month, the Mazamas, along available for climbing for more than half with the American Alpine Club the year. and the Beacon Rock Climbing The closure, which is part of Beacon Association partnered with Rock’s Climbing Management Plan, is Beacon Rock State Park to celebrate the now more than 17 years old. It was Centennial Anniversary of the Washington designed to protect peregrine falcons that State Parks System. Climbers and hikers were once an endangered species caused gathered at Beacon Rock’s Upper Picnic by the widespread use of chemicals like Area throughout the day to enjoy food DDT. Thanks to many hard-working and drinks, fellowship and a free raffle environmentalists the falcons can be prize giveaway supported by local retailers spotted flying around many areas such as Next Adventure. Good weather throughout the U.S., and locally as they made the event a success and from the nest on the bridges of Portland. Peregrine many conversations had that day one falcons have been de-listed from the thing is certain: that too many people, Endangered Species Act since both climbers and hikers, are 1999 and are considered a unaware of Beacon Rock’s Species of Least Concern by past, present and uncertain the International Union for future.

Conservation of Nature.

As a new generation But this doesn’t mean they of outdoor enthusiasts don’t need protection which discovers Beacon Rock, they is why local climbers along are surprised by the rich with the WDFW and the history there. For example, BRSP have been discussing the Mazamas has been part ways to update the Climbing of the climbing saga there Management Plan in order for just as long. The official to create a more balanced Mazama climb and a rather approach to habitat and epic one in 1914 (think land management. Would centennial celebration next a more dynamic approach year) was captured by C.W. to managing the protection Howard in the Mazama: A of peregrines allow more Record of Mountaineering in climbing access? How will the Pacific Northwest (Vol. a new plan impact wildlife, IV, #3, pgs. 93-94). Here’s Karl Hinze, Beacon Rock State Park Manager, serves Centennial park staff, climbers and an excerpt from Howard’s Celebration cake on June 1, 2013. Photo: Joe Poulton. tourists? There are many trip report of what is today more problems like these referred to as the “Spike behind access issues at Beacon Rock Route:” miles from Portland? Why do so few that need to be solved. Ultimately the The most difficult part of the climb is people climb there year-round? closures force the climbing community to met when about half way up the rock, or A major reason is due to the annual go elsewhere (Leavenworth, Smith Rock, about 600 feet above the ground. Here blanket closure of climbing areas for the Squamish, etc.) in order to find an equal the trail ends at the bottom of a chimny protection of peregrine falcons. Every experience (long, free or aid climbs) and leading to the base of a bald face of rock year on February 1st, the Beacon Rock for the climbing history to be forgotten. about 60 feet high and entirely devoid State Park Rangers, in accordance with To make things even more complicated, of vegetation. There are no crevices for biological advice from the Washington consider the current state of the hand or foot holds, and to negotiate this Department of Fish and Wildlife close the Washington State Parks System. After chimney and rock face the first climbers south (river face) and west face climbing 100 years of service to public land use, had drilled holes and set some iron spikes, areas until July 15 (depending on nest their bottom line is in the red. Funding by which one could pull himself up. A success or failure). for the parks is at an all-time low and its rope was afterward hung from above.

When the peregrine falcon closure budget continues to shrink as Discover On our reconnoitering trip we found is added to the permanently-closed east Pass sales fail to provide sufficient revenue that some of the spikes had become loose face of the rock for the protection of the for operations. Now more than ever it enough to become dangerous and that Gorge Daisy and Oregon Sullivantia, the is important for the new generation of the permanent rope was badly rotted. We total number of vertical feet unavailable climbers and hikers to get involved and stopped here long enough to re-drill the to the climbing community each year is find opportunities to shape the uncertain old holes and set in a few additional pins. substantial. And since the closure occurs future at Beacon Rock State Park.

We also hung a new 70-foot 1-inch rope

L

18 —Mazama Bulletin

to replace the old one. Setting the pins on this place was adventuresome work. First Sammons and then myself took turns at it, being suspended in mid-air, as it were, by a painter’s noose made in the large rope.

Hanging over the wall added zest to the sport, but I was glad that the rope was new and in perfect condition.

Today, this aspect of Beacon Rock’s history is often forgotten as new climbers continue to overlook the park in their quest for alpine-style training, multi-pitch crack climbs and mini-Big Wall adventures.

But why? How can a climber miss such an iconic climbing destination in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge, a mere 40

Volunteer Spotlight

The Kick Ass Ladies Squad:

by Kati Mayfield

Team KALS or the “Kick Ass Ladies Squad” as they like to refer to themselves, are the masterminds behind the 2013 Used Equipment Sale.

As you may have read in the May Bulletin article, the 2013 UES was the highest-grossing sale to date. This may have had something to do with the dynamic ladies running the event.

Kathleen Hahn, Annie McCartney, Lori Coyner and Sojo Hendrix first came together during a backpacking trip in the Enchantments last summer. They had a fantastic time and really bonded.

Afterwards, at a happy hour at Lori’s house, Sojo (who had run the UES last year) announced that if she was elected to council, they would take on UES. “This is what happens when the wine is flowing, I guess” says Lori.

Sure enough, Sojo was elected and Kathleen, Annie and Lori agreed to run the sale. It wasn’t as though they didn’t already have enough going on—Kathleen owns her own business as a physical Sojo Hendrix testing out the wares at therapist, Annie is a doctor, and Lori is a director at the Oregon Health Authority making health the UES. It’s important to make sure care transformation happen-but they thought that organizing and running the UES would be a great everything is in working order! way to get to see each other regularly and to help the Mazamas.

Were you at this year’s UES? The well-stocked floor and the line of patient shoppers that wound around the block were sure signs of a successful sale. Kathleen, Annie and Lori oversaw a great crew of volunteers, from personal shoppers to cashiers. Much of the gear at this year’s sale was typical, though team KALS fondly recalls one item in particular: A plastic square portable potty that someone was giving away for free. It did not get taken. But a terrific photo of Sojo seated upon it did get taken.

Kathleen, Annie and Lori will be running the 2014 UES as well, and you’ll also see them around taking skill-builders, assisting with BCEP, helping the First Aid Committee and of course hitting the trails.

Lori Coyner, Kathleen Hahn & Annie McCartney at the UES. Thanks, team K-A-L-S for all that you do!

July 2013—19

Mazama Lodge Parking Lot Expansion

by Ron Sikes

Have you visited the Mazama Lodge in the winter? If so, then you are familiar with the death-defying run across Highway 26!

Road 530 is the closest winter access to the lodge. At the lodge trailhead, there is parking space only to unload. Mazamas must then drive along road 530 to Highway 26 and park in the Snopark on the far side. The driver and any passengers must then cross Highway 26, contending with cars driving fast, and trying to maintain footing on the road surface covered with ice and snow.

With highway drivers seldom expecting pedestrians crossing the highway, the situation will only get worse when ODOT adds an acceleration lane going east from Timberline Highway.

Charles Barker, the Mazama Lodge manager, and Chris Negelspach, Principal at Cardno Engineering, both long-time Mazamas, began planning in 2011 for an alternative to the dangerous parking situation along Highway 26. They developed the concept of adding parking spaces along Road 530. Doing so would provide about 70 spaces with relatively little disruption to the roadway and its surroundings. Rick Amodeo, Chair of the Lodge Committee, brought the idea to the committee, which appointed Ron Sikes to assist in project planning. Chris and Cardno produced conceptual drawings for presentations.

Over several months in late 2012 and early 2013, and supported by partial funding from the Mazama Executive Council, Cardno managed a survey of the entire lodge and proposed parking areas, produced more detailed engineering and planning drawings, and obtained preliminary construction bids. The Executive Council also funded an application to the US Forest Service for planning and oversight of the entire project, including environmental and governmental considerations.

Lee Davis, Mazama Executive Director, along with Chris and Ron, have held discussions with various stakeholders and interested and affected parties, such as the Mazama Conservation Committee, Boy Scouts, Trails Club, Timberline Lodge, and Art’s cabins.

The Lodge Committee wants to be sure all known stakeholders are informed of plans and have a chance to voice opinions.

The committee is also seeking funding for the project, which is estimated to cost up to $250,000 if completed within the next 18 months. The committee, with support from Lee Davis and the Executive Council, is currently looking at options for funding and use, as well as continuing more detailed engineering studies prior to initiating formal discussions with any particular funding sources.

The Lodge Committee welcomes comments from Mazama members. Please make comments in writing to mazamafotl@gmail. com, which will forward all comments to the committee and to Lee Davis.

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20 —Mazama Bulletin

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Obituaries

Joseph “Mitch” Michaud

Classic Old-Timers

25 years of membership or longer

by Billie Goodwin

Friday, July 5—You are invited to Dick and Jane Miller’s home for our annual potluck picnic. The parklike setting on Cooper Mountain is so beautiful and includes a chairlift! If you’ve never attended one of the picnics plan to come this year and bring a friend or two.

Bring the food of your choice ranging from salads, main dishes or deserts to share with others. Bring your own plate, silverware and beverage. Plan to arrive at 2 p.m. so we can eat at 2:30 p.m. Bring a favorite yard game if you have one and plan to visit with new and old friends.

Their home is at 17745 SW Cooper Mt. Lane, Beaverton. Coming from the east take Hwy 26 to Hwy 217. Stay on 217 until you see the Scholls Ferry exit, across from Washington Square. Take a right on Scholls Ferry and go west until you come to SW 175th. Turn right. Go about 3/4 mile to Cooper Mt. Lane on the left.

This is on a curve and may be hard to see. Keep left on the one-lane road until you come to the long driveway.

Dick has this last part marked with Miller signs and it is very easy to find. If you should find yourself unsure of where you need to go, call Billie on her cell phone, 509499-6963, or if she fails to answer, try Dick and Jane at 503-509-3598.

New Offerings: Sunday, July 21—Stevenson, WA Day Outing Explore this pleasant little town on the Columbia.

Watch kite boarders and wind surfers come and go from the shore. Walk from town to town along the north side of Rock Cove towards Skamania Lodge where historic and nature information is displayed. Enjoy lunch at Big River Grill.

Meet at the sternwheeler dock at the foot of Russell St. at 10:30 a.m. To arrange carpooling, phone Anne Jacobs, 503-293-6304.

Sunday, Aug. 25—Sunday Parkways Join Heather Rosenwinkel at Sunday Parkways. See the August Bulletin for more information.

If you have any ideas of things for the group to do please share them with Billie Goodwin, Chair, Classic Old TImers.

Feb. 12, 1928—May 2, 2013 Mitch Michaud died Thursday, May 2, 2013, at home after a period of declining health. He was born in Eagle Lake, Maine and lived in various parts of the Unites States throughout his life.

He is survived by his wife Denise C.; his three children, two grand children, and his brother, Alex Michaud of Oregon.

Mitch was a lifelong mountaineer and a member of the Mazamas. In 1970, he became the first man in the world to climb the highest point in all 50 states within one year. He then enjoyed celebrity status and appeared on several TV news shows. Publications such as Sports Illustrated wrote of his accomplishments. Mitch then spent the rest of his career as a consultant in the sporting goods industry. He also taught mountain climbing at Clark University and continued to go on various mountaineering and outdoor adventures. His credo was “Each new day is a new Everest for each man; the object of his life should be to climb it with excitement, and with empathy, sympathy, concern and growing awareness for the world around him and all forms of life in it, including other men of all races, creeds, origins, and persuasions; so that in the end it can be said that along his trail he left not only achievement, but joy and reconciliation, and left the world and its beauty untrammeled.”

Bob Lothian

March 18, 1949–May 19, 2013 Long-time Mazama member, Bob Lothian, passed away Sunday, May 19, in Portland from cancer. Born in Eugene, Bob graduated from Rex Putnam High School. He received a bachelor’s degree from Reed College in 1982 and a master’s in journalism from Columbia University in 1992.

In his early career Bob worked as a welder, mechanic and U.S. Forest Service firefighter and wilderness ranger. Transitioning into journalism, Bob free-lanced in the 1980s for the Oregonian, Portland Observer and Catholic Sentinel. He worked as reporter and photographer for the Bandon Western World, Ashland Daily Tidings and Ashland Democrat Herald. Later in his career, Bob spent 18 years with Multnomah County Aging and Disability Services as a case manager and hearings representative.

As a Mazama member Bob summited 11 of the 16 major Northwest peaks, including Rainier, Olympus and Glacier Peak.

He completed ICS in 2004-2005. Since 2010, Bob was an active member of the Conservation Committee. He monitored and reported to the committee on developments in the Silver Star and Cascade Crossing power line projects, as well as the proposed Coos Bay coal terminal. He was a strong voice in opposition to the development of a lift-assisted downhill mountain bike park slated for development at Timberline Lodge. Shortly before he passed away, Bob made a significant donation to support Mazamas’ conservation efforts.

Bob also served as board member for the National Alliance for the Mentally Ill of Multnomah County. He is survived by brothers James D. Gilbert of Molalla, John W. and Thomas D. Lothian of Portland; and son, Aaron D. Smith of Spokane. A memorial service was held on May 28. Donations to the Mazamas or National Alliance for the Mentally Ill of Multnomah County in Bob’s honor would be welcome.

July 2013—21

Successful Climbers January 19, Aconcagua, False Polish Traverse. Leader: Rick Posekany (Did Not Summit), Asst: Matt Carter. Jay Avery February 10, St. Helens, Worm Flows.

Leader: Ken Searl, Asst: Rob Parker. Joe Ferguson, Ben Grady, Ember Kauth, Alex Lockard, Jeff Nastoff, Karen Vernier May 1, Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Rigor. Brennen Bendel, Joel Brainard, Tom Davidson, Seeger Fisher, James Thomson, Steve Wagoner May 8, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Bruce Yatvin. Brett Farrell, Keegan Fritzke, Brad Fritzke, Mike Levis, Rachel Tramel May 9, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Michelle Van Kleeck. Mike Pennington, Joan Wallace May 18, Mt. Hood, Wy’east. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Tom Davidson. Thomas Nancarrow, Robert Sinnott, Steve Wagoner May 20, Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir.

Leader: John Godino, Asst: Matthew Sundling.

Amanda Barbee, Marty Guenther, Jon Major, Rod Parker May 20, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Mike Leonard-Maguire. Ardel Frick, Amy Graham, Benjamin Grandy, Kathleen Hahn, Ryan Jones, Barry O’Mahony May 25, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Carol Bryan, Asst: Beth Copeland. Kristie Perry, Richard Ramirez, Joseph Timko, Aric Wardian May 26, Shasta, Clear Creek. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Rigor. Anne Ames, Nancey Bentley, Tom Davidson, Seeger Fisher, Mark Fowler, Alex Fox, Marc Heisterkamp, Margaret McCarthy, Sandra Volk, Andreas Wunderle May 26, Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Erin Wirtz. Brennen Brendel, Alex Hult, Stephen Kingsbury, Michael Kucia, Brandon Larkin, Karin Masunari, Amy Mfuni June 1, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Walter Keutel. Dick Bronder, Grant Causton, Alshay Dua, Eileen Kiely, Aaron Lewis, Meryl Lipman, Brian Martin, Frank Mungeam, Barbara Weiss, Candy Yiu June 2, Shastina, Cascade Gulch. Leader: Robert Joy, Asst: Whit Fellers. Howard Buck, Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Cloudy Sears, Jennifer Sutter

June 2, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: Carol Bryan, Asst: Ken Biehler. Emma Burbank, Mike DeLaune, Kirk Newgard, Seng Phou, Ryan Toupal, Jami Wireman, Michael Zasadzien June 2, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch.

Leader: Tian Lan, Asst: Joshua Lupkin. Kline Bentley, Yonsoo Lee, Barry O’Mahony, Darin Richardson, Shad Williams, Lea Wilson June 2, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Jay Satak, Asst: Lynne Pedersen. Steve Cook, Mark Curran, Peg Gauthier, Kim Hefty, Stephen Hirai, Regis Krug, Jessica Lackey, Stuart Morrice, Meredith Nickoli June 2, Mt. Shuksan, White Salmon Glacier.

Leader: Glenn Widener, Asst: Karl Helser. Shem Harding, Linda Mark, Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, John Rettig, Dan Rudolph, Alexander Smirnov, Steven Wagoner, Kai Waldron, Roger Wong June 3, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Chris Killmer. Jacob Delepine, Mark Griffith, Carolyn Kruger, Hye Kwon, Kathrin Sears June 5, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Cloudy Sears. Stephanie Bruckbauer, Teresa Fiorito, Gary Riggs June 6, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst.: Tara Gedman. Erin Deviln, Kendra Howar, Aaron Lewis, Chris Miller, Jonathan Myers, Adam Payn, Rodney Schwiebert, Neal Van Zante, Aric Wardian.

June 7, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Barbara Weiss. Dan Codorean, Wendell Harlauer, Walter Keutel, Joe Petsche, Ryan Toupal, Ania Wiktorowicz June 8, Mt. Ruth, Ruth Glacier. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Jon Bonnet. Kate Evans, Paul Foster, Patrick Laubacher, Ryan Reed, Cloudy Sears June 8, Mt. Ellinor, Southeast Chute.

Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Tim Scott. Jay Avery, Gregg Baker, Bill Dewsnap, Johnny Leahy, Kate Feiertag June 8, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Ann Marie McCartney. Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Brendan Dell, Abhishek Dhanotia, Kim Edger, Sabina Grover, Michael Linn, Erin Wirtz, Alexis Yeh June 8, Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim. Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: Roger Wong. Zack Cross, Brad Crowley, Michael Domeier, Dave Harkins, Alica Imbody, Bruce Nisker, Jonathan Skeen

June 8, Mt. McLaughlin, East Ridge.

Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Brad Unruh. Kline Bentley, Sue Giordano, Bruce Giordano, Lisa Hemesath, Daniel Mick, Kristie Perry June 8, Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver. Leader: Jeffrey Welter, Asst: Paul Montgomery. Jeff Diephus, Dyanne Foster, Kelly Jaske, Doug Merritt June 8, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch.

Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Gary Ballou. Amy Graham, Paul Kallmann, Brian Klump, Bridget Martin, Noelle Savatta June 9, Mt. McLaughlin, East Ridge. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Karin Masunari. Gunnar Harb, Sarah Holmes, Alex Hult, Eric Kennedy June 9, Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Walter Keutel.

Hal Bernton, Josh Boren, Pam Gilmer, Dave Groudle, Michael Hortsch, Ann Marie McCartney, Seth Moore, Mark Stave June 9, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: Carol Bryan, Asst: Dan Crisp. John Long, Brad Ostaplowicz, Andrew Schiestl, Karen Suher, Maggie Woodward June 9, Mt. Angeles, East Ridge. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Tim Scott. Jay Avery, Gregg Baker, Bill Dewsnap, Johnny Leahy, Kate Feiertag June 9, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Gregory Willmarth, Asst: Marta Martinez. Eric Bruckbauer, Seeger Fisher, Sean Fitzpatrick, Ronald Kravitz, Steve Mattsson, Hal Paver, Sean Penfield, James Thomson, Joe Timko June 9, South Sister, Prouty Glacier.

Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Jennifer Van Houten.

Elizabeth Cole, Kurt Hiland June 14, Shasta, Clear Creek. Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Ted Slupesky. Dustin Johnson, Kathleen Morrison June 15, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Howie Davis. Mary Beth Turner, Julia Corson, Jason Eckess, Laurie Laverdiere, Erika Price, Naveen Ramaswamy, Darin Richardson, Sandra Volk June 16, St Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Shawn Murphy. Teresa Fiorito, Kendra Howard, Nina Nestlen, Roger Sharp

Mt. Hood Climb—June 6, 2013 (see photo, right). From Tim Scott: “We had five climbers summit Mt. Hood for the first time that day: Erin Devlin, Kendra Howard, Aaron Lewis, Chris Miller and Neal Van Zante. Interestingly, last year, I climbed with Neal’s son Jordan on his first summit of Mt. Hood. I suggested to Neal that we persuade his wife to climb with me next year, so I could climb to the summit with the whole family! We left the Day Lodge around 12:30 a.m. and got to the top of the Palmer pretty quickly. One climber turned around because she said that she just didn’t have it in her that day. Given the well-stepped path to the summit, we decided to climb solo to the summit from the hogsback. We went up the chute to the right of the Old Chute because some climbers were about to start descending as we approached that fork. After getting a bunch of ice kicked down on us from a few guided parties, this seemed like a good way to go. We got to the summit ~7 a.m. and lounged around for an hour and were back at the cars by 11:30 a.m. It was my favorite type of climb to lead because I didn’t feel like I did anything; everyone on the climb was very confident and seemed comfortable doing everything on the way up and down the mountain.

22 —Mazama Bulletin

Upcoming Climbs

July/August

It’s not too late participate in summer climbs. This list includes the climbs with openings and those that are taking alternates for the next 45 days. Please reference the online climb schedule for the most up-to-date information. Don’t miss out! Submit those climb cards today.

Departure 07/04–AM 07/05–AM 07/05–AM 07/11–AM 07/11–PM 07/14–AM 07/15–AM 07/16–AM 07/17–PM 07/19–AM 07/19–PM 07/19–4PM 07/23–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–PM 07/26–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–AM 07/27–AM 07/28–AM 07/29–AM 07/30–AM 08/02–AM 08/04–AM 08/08–AM 08/08–3PM 08/09–AM 08/09–AM 08/09–AM 08/10–AM 08/12–AM 08/14–AM 08/14–AM 08/14–AM 08/15–PM 08/15–PM 08/15–5PM

Return 07/06–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/12–PM 07/14–PM 07/17–PM 07/21–PM 07/17–PM 07/21–AM 07/20–PM 07/20–PM 07/22–PM 07/24–PM 07/28–PM 07/27–PM 07/27–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/29–PM 08/01–PM 08/03–PM 08/04–PM 08/12–PM 08/12–10PM 08/11–PM 08/11–PM 08/10–PM 08/16–PM 08/14–PM 08/18–PM 08/18–PM 08/18–PM 08/18–PM 08/19–PM 08/20–PM

Mountain, Route Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Mt. Constance, College Route / South Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Buckner, North Face Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier The Tooth, South Face Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side South Sister, Devil’s Lake Chiwawa Mountain, Red Mountain Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Middle Sister, Renfrew Glacier-North Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Bailey, Standard Mt. Adams, South Side Union Peak, Standard Route Mt. Bailey, Standard Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side South Sister, Green Lakes Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Stuart, North Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Dome Peak, Dome Glacier Gunsight Peak, SW Face Sinister Peak, North Face Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Mt. Logan, Fremont Glacier Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier

Front Row (left to right): Erin Devlin, Tim Scott (Climb Leader), Kendra Howard. Standing (left to right): Chris Miller, Rod Schwiebert, Aric Wardian, Aaron Lewis, Tara Gedman (Asst.

Climb Leader), Neal Van Zante, Adam Payn, Jonathan Myers.

Codes D+(E) (ICS) B+(E) (BCEP) B+ (ICS)98 B (BCEP) D+(E) (ASI) C+(E) (ICS) C+ (ICS)97 D(P) (ICS)(AR) D+(E) (ICS) A+ A (BCEP) B+ A(C)(H)(N) 179 and 185 A+(F) 178 and 185 A (BCEP) A(A)(E) 178 and 179 B+(C)(N)(P)(E) C+ (ICS) A(E) A+ (BCEP)(ICS) A(A)(E) A(A)(E) C(E) (ICS)(ASI) A+ (BCEP) A (BCEP) C+(E) E+(E) (AR) C+ (BCEP) B+(E) (BCEP)(ICS) A (BCEP)(ICS) C+ D+ B+(A)(E) E+(A)(E) C+(A)(E) D(E) (AR) B+(E) C+(E)

Leader Jeff Welter Daniel Bailey Bob Breivogel Doug Couch Tim Scott Bruce Yatvin Keith Dubanevich Rayce Boucher Chris Kruell Jill Kellogg Lori Freeman Bob Breivogel George Cummings Richard Caldwell Patrice Cook Robert Caldwell Jeff Hawkins Wim Aarts Steve Warner Darrell Weston Robert Caldwell Robert Caldwell Carol Bryan Lori Freeman Daniel Bailey Hugh Brown Glenn Widener Bill McLoughlin Jon Major George Shay Bruce Yatvin Shirley Welch Preston Corless Preston Corless Preston Corless Chris Kruell Tim Scott Linda Mark

Spots Status 2 Open 0 Alternates 0 Alternates 0 Open 2 Open 7 Open 2 Open 0 Alternates 2 Open 1 Open 10 Open 0 Alternates 0 Alternates 7 Open 6 Open 1 Open 8 Open 1 Open 9 Open 0 Alternates 0 Alternates 0 Alternates 1 Open 0 Alternates 0 Alternates 0 Alternates 3 Open 0 Alternates 1 Open 5 Open 1 Open 0 Alternates 4 Open 4 Open 4 Open 2 Open 5 Open 1 Open

Climb# 215 16 148 183 257 21 311 51 45 41 165 135 217 57 108 226 293 320 312 269 227 228 197 166 326 188 262 36 101 210 32 176 208 218 219 47 259 290

June 8, 2013—Derek Castonguay, Katie Mills, Nate Mullen and Rebecca Schob on Liberty Ridge, Mt. Rainier about to begin 1500 ft. of ice-climbing above the Black Pyramid (12,500 ft.–14,000 ft.) before summitting Liberty Cap and descending via the Emmons Glacier. Photo: Rebecca Schob.

Inset:Hannah Seabach approaching Lane Peak with Rainier in the background.Photo: Steve Heikkila.

Left Page: Top—Climbers rope up to climb through the ice fall on Mt Stuart’s Ice Cliff Glacier. Mandy Barbee belays up Jason Lee from an anchor above the final bergschrund crossing. Photos: Andrew Holman.

Mazama Military Service Flags—WWI & WWII

by Vera Dafoe, Museum Curator

In a display case in the MMC Holman Auditorium are two large fabric military service flags from two major European wars during the last century. Roy W. Ayer, Mazama president in 1917, reported in the Annual Journal how the Mazamas were affected by World War I: “The energies and activities of our country have been given over exclusively to the prosecution of the world’s war in which our own country has become the chief factor. Pleasure seeking and social affairs have given place to the stern realities of overcoming our country’s enemies. Each month has seen new recruits for the army, the navy, or some other war service added from our membership. Already there are seventy-two stars in the Mazama Service Flag in evidence of our part in the war. No star as yet has been turned to gold. A token that every star represents a man who has offered, and may even yet give his life in freedom’s cause.”

In 1944, Mazamas were again involved in another European conflict, World War II and made another armed services flag. The Climbing Committee reported the situation: “Because of war-time difficulties of transportation, the absence of many of our most experienced climbers in the armed services and the extra burden of war activities carried by everyone, the Mazama climbing program for 1944 was greatly curtailed.” They climbed five mountains that summer.

The Mazama Annual in 1945 spoke of the armed service flag: “With the conclusion of hostilities in World War II, it is fitting to pause and give honor to those of our members who have faithfully served in many branches of the Armed Forces of the United States of America since December 7, 1941. Of the total of one hundred twentythree Mazamas serving their country, three gold stars represent those who gave their lives and made the supreme sacrifice.”

26 —Mazama Bulletin

Annual Trail Tending Event— Mazama Trail The annual trail tending party at Mazama Trail will occur from Thursday, Aug. 8–Sunday, Aug.11. Carpools will leave Portland daily as well as a car camp at the trailhead for those who want to stay over a night or more. This will be a dry camp with a portable toilet set up. For those staying over, evening entertainment will include the amazing alpenglow light show on Mt. Hood. The work day will start whenever the volunteers are prepared to head out and end in time to be back at the trailhead by 4 p.m. where cold drinks and snacks will be served. Tools will be available. You need to have trail shoes and gloves. The August Bulletin will have a more detailed description of the leaders, times, and meeting places.

Top: Terry Jones and Ed Rea replacing the trail sign at the Round the Mountain junction with Mazama Trail.

Bottom: Mazama Trailhead campsite.

Time Warp

by Jack Grauer

1963—50 years Ago Tuesday, April 15, 1963: The Basic Climbing School began with lectures at Lloyd Center Auditorium. After an introduction by Allison Belcher, Bill Oberteuffer spoke on Why We Climb, and Erwin Rieger spoke on Rock Climbing and Belaying. Speeches were made on following weeks by: 2. Donald Eastman and Jim Craig 3. Ernie McDonald and Norm Greene 4. Dick Pooley, Dave Hitchcock, and John Waymire 5. An examination and viewing the film Mountains Don’t Care.

Field Sessions were: Apr 20 & May 12: Horsethief Butte Apr 28 & May 11: Mt. Hood snow practice May 5: Boy Scout Center. Signing up for the school cost 25 cents, and each field trip had a 25 cent fee.

Climbing Committee members were Neil Baldwin, Allison Belcher, Dale Christiansen, Albert Combs, Roland Emetaz, Walter Ericksen, Walter Gable, Clint and Dorothy Harrington, Frank Head, Charles Jensen, Al Weese.

1913—100 years Ago Walter Scott McBride took 6½ pages in the1912 Annual for an enthusiastic story of his climb of Mount Fujiyama. The sky cleared after he spent three June days at the Cherry Mount Hotel in Tokyo.

He lifted the window blind to see that dazzling mountain covered with snow. McBride was evidently in Japan to do business, because he mentioned his office in Tokyo. He began to dream of climbing Fuji San in June, and on July 10, the trail was officially “opened” to climbers and hikers. With Pool, an acquaintance who had come from San Francisco, McBride made plans to climb on Monday, Aug. 4, a holiday.

The weather was so rainy on the previous Friday that they gave up the climb, but on Sunday the sun emerged, and they decided to go that afternoon. They arrived at Gotemba near the mountain’s base at 6 pm. The town was filled with mountain pilgrims wearing straw rain hats and straw sandals, and carrying walking staffs and a roll of matting for protection from wind and rain. They joined other hikers to ride up to the village of Subashiri in a dozen carts, each drawn by a struggling, single horse. Arriving at Subashiri at 8:30 p.m., they walked up to find an inn and a guide. Pool went off to buy staffs and hats, while McBride assembled tea and lunch. Pool came back with a guide who was deaf, blind in one eye, and very slow. They began to plod up a trail covered with a foot of coarse cinders. Their side of Fuji was pleasant and starlit, while lightning flashed on the othe side.

They reached Station #1 at 11:30 p.m. and Station #2 just after midnight. The floor was covered with sleeping “pilgrims”, and they continued to reach Station #3 in another hour for a short rest. About 2 a.m., they left the forested area and had stopped for rest and some tea at an intermediate station. At 3 a.m. the lights of Tokyo and Yokohama dimmed and a faint gray line on the horizon suggested dawn. At station #8, a low hut like all the others, they lay down to rest a bit at 7 a.m. At 8 am they mounted a flight of stone steps to the summit. After admiring the view, they went down past a Bhuddist shrine hut to an alley of huts on the summit ridge. Stopping at one of the buildings, they drank tea and slept for an hour before starting descent.

July 2013—27

Go Hiking!

HK B2 Jul 03 (Wed) Ape Canyon-Plains of Abraham. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Striking views of Mount St Helens. Named after reported Sasquatch sightings in the 80s. 10.6 miles 1300 ft. Dr. 142 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Jul 04 (Thu) Horse Shoe Ridge. Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373. Wilderness–Limit 12.

This little beauty of a hike is an old favorite come back again! Conditioning pace first four miles up through forest and well-graded switchbacks. Last mile through open alpine meadows with grandstand volcano views. Home in time for BBQ and fireworks.

10.4 miles 2900 ft. Dr. 98 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jul 06 (Sat) Cape Lookout (upper lot). Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. Lovely stroll out to the end of the cape for wide-ranging views of the sea. 5.2 miles 970 ft. Dr. 148 Target/185th 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 06 (Sat) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Celebrate your Independence by hiking one of the premier trails in the Gorge.

Stunning views, nice array of wildflowers and waterfalls make this trail a jewel. We’ll get an early start and avoid the crowds. 7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88. Wash. State Park Discover Pass. Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jul 07 (Sun) Herman Creek Pinnacles. Ursula Edlund ursedl123@gmail.com. We switchback up and down to the Herman Creek footbridge and continue to the Pacific Crest Trail. From here we hike to the Pinnacles for lunch and return. 6 miles 950 ft.

Dr. 78 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 07 (Sun) Mary’s Peak. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Coast Range hike in Beaver country.

Mary’s Peak near Corvallis is the highest mountain in the coast range. 8 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 185 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jul 07 (Sun) Larch Mountain Yo-Yo. Kurt Hiland kurthikes@msn.com. Wilderness–Limit 12.

The classic Larch hike upside down. We’ll start at the top, go down to Multnomah Falls for lunch (think iced coffee, ice cream, etc), then go back up to the top like a yo-yo. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 70 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 10 (Wed) Lava Canyon to Smith Creek.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Near Mount St. Helens, hiking on ladders and suspension bridges, this hike is totally unique in its challenges, location and geology. 6.6 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 142 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jul 13 (Sat) Forest Park Loop. Mark Sanzone msanzone@yahoo.com. Explore Forest Park. Meet at Springville road TH (off Skyline). 9am start, finish by noon. 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 – 9 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 13 (Sat) Angels Rest. Terry Lawson awson.terry@gmail.com. Come out to the Gorge for a short hike, good workout, and a nice view of the Columbia River as a reward. Plenty of time for other Saturday activities when you return. 4.6 miles 1,584 ft. Dr. 42 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C1.5 Jul 13 (Sat) Yocum Ridge. Dan Smith 503408-8923. Wilderness–Limit 12. This is great hike with view of Ramona Falls, Zigzag Ridge and start of Sandy River. The bear-grass may be out also! Firstcome, first served up to wilderness limit at Gateway.

17.4 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 7 a.m.

28 —Mazama Bulletin

HK A1.5 Jul 14 (Sun) Dry Creek Falls. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We’ll do the hike to Dry Creek Falls from Cascade Locks, then on to the pinnacles and back to the Locks. Leisurely pace to enjoy the views and visit. The late start means we will see the Falls in sunlight. 7 miles 710 ft. Dr. 78 Gateway 11 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 14 (Sun) Nestor Peak. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Located on the eastern border of the Cascade Divide, this hike has a mix of east- and west-side plants and trees. Views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Defiance and the Hood River Valley. 7.8 miles 2150 ft. Dr. 140 StatePark Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jul 17 (Wed) Siouxon Creek (to Wildcat Falls). Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. Woodsy wandering and creek wading. We’ll go up shady, lovely Siouxon Creek to the ford at Chinook Falls, then down to Wildcat, and try to ford Siouxon again to cut it short. 10.2 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 70 TH Gateway 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Jul 20 (Sat) Salmon River lower section.

Billie Goodwin 503-254-6121. Enjoy a wooded trail along the Salmon River. We will turn around at the sign-in box for the wilderness area. Bring lunch, water and clothing for the weather. 5.2 miles 500 ft.

Dr. 90 TH Gateway 9 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jul 20 (Sat) Indian Mountain. Kelly Marlin Mazamamama@frontier.com or 503-665-6778. Wilderness–Limit 12. Let’s plan on a full day exploring Mt. Hood’s seldom-visited northwest side. Sign the summit register and read narratives of those who have gone before us. Or, simply enjoy stunning and sweeping views from the rocky summit. Insect repellant might be a good idea. 9 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 160 TH Lewis & Clark S.P. (near toilets) 7:30 a.m.

HK C1.5 Jul 20 (Sat) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. Wilderness–Limit 12. Terrific hike with variety of scenery and one of the area’s best views from up top. 10.4 miles 2975 ft.

Dr. 136 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jul 21 (Sun) Ramona Falls Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. Come see the lacy beauty of Ramona Falls after hiking along the woods along Ramona Creek with nearby basalt cliffs to frame the scenery. Email leader to reserve a spot on this popular summer hike. 7.3 miles 810 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 21 (Sun) Loowit Falls-Plains of Abraham Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Wilderness– Limit 12. Great views of Mount St. Helens north and east sides. We will hike from Windy Ridge over to Loowit Falls, then up and over Windy Pass to the Plains of Abraham. Our return will take us on open ridge tops to our cars. Plan on a long day. 11.7 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 180 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jul 21 (Sun) Hunchback Mt. (Great Pyramid). Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness– Limit 12. A Mt. Hood hike with two great viewpoints to enjoy over the Sandy River Gorge. You will be in shade for most of the route. Expect a lot of elevation gain at first and then a steady ridge climb.

9 miles 3,060 ft. Dr. 76 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK C1.5 Jul 24 (Wed) Silver Star Mountain (Bluff Mountain). Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. It’s long and sunny and dry, but there should be flowers a-plenty on this big loop to Silver Star, 13.2 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 100 StatePark Gateway 8 a.m.

Contact Trail Trips Committee chair is Jim Selby at selbyjb@comcast.net with any questions. To lead a hike in August, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www. mazamas2.org.

Note: “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area, and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader.

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit tinyurl.com/mazamahikeschedule.

AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at http://tinyurl.com/mazamaaym.

HK A1.5 Jul 27 (Sat) Wildcat Mountain (Douglas Trail). Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Wilderness–Limit 12. Great view of Mt. Hood. 6.8 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 80 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 27 (Sat) Larch Mountain Crater. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. The hike leader’s favorite hike through the Crater below Sherrard Point on Larch Mountain. Unusual topography with great views of Jefferson, Hood, Adams, St. Helens, and Rainer.

Late start is to take advantage of the views in early afternoon. We’ll still be back at Gateway before 4:30 p.m. 8 miles 1,550 ft. Dr. 68 Gateway 10 a.m.

HK C1.5 Jul 27 (Sat) Huckleberry Mt. (Boulder Ridge). Regis Krug regis_krug@mentor.com or 503704-6442. Wilderness–Limit 12. Excellent training hike with great views of Mts. Hood, Adams, and more on clear days. 10.6 miles 3,300 ft. Dr. 72 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 28 (Sun) Burnt Lake. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. The trail passes waterfalls and wildflowers and goes through woods of Douglas fir, hemlock and cedar.

Email leader to reserve a spot. 7.4 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 96 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Jul 28 (Sun) Defiance. Kate Evans 503635-6540. Wilderness–Limit 12. We’ll be doing a clockwise loop on this great conditioning hike. Bring your poles. 11.9 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 31 (Wed) Sheep Canyon Loop (Blue Lake). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. We will hike on the western edge of the Mount St. Helens 1980 blast zone. Be prepared for a sometimes-challenging stream crossing. 11 miles 1,960 ft. Dr. 140 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Aug 04 (Sun) Devils Rest (via Wahkeena).

Dan Smith 503-408-8923. This is a great short hike with views and a workout. You will be back in time to enjoy the rest of the day! 7.4 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 7 a.m.

Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule.

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI in the Pearl. Rambles start promptly at 6 p.m. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 ft. and meet at REI-Pearl NW 14th & Johnson 6 p.m.

Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down to get fit for climbs/ hiking this spring and summer, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 ft Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd & Stark) 6 p.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory .

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed.

• • • • • •

1 = 1 mph: slow, easy pace 1.5 = 1.5 mph: moderately easy pace 2 = 2 mph: moderate pace 2.5 = 2.5 mph: moderately fast pace 3 = 3 mph: fast conditioning pace; 3.5 = 3.5 mph: very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

HK=Hike; SR=Street Ramble; R=Run; BP=Backpack; TT=Trail Tending; RP=Restoration Project; W=Wilderness area–limited to a maximum of 12 persons; SS=Snowshoes; NS=Cross Country Ski. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips.

Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th & Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; SalmonCreek P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit

7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. & 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P&R at Boones Ferry & Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th & Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th.

Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food & clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. See hike write-ups for particulars of pace, trail conditions, mileage and elevation gain. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty. Hikes are classified into general categories; contact leader for further details.

Supporting outdoor enthusiasts x-train wellness rehab Weekly Yoga Classes Therapeutic Massage

Eugene Lewins

www.MassageWithEugene.com 503-939-9657

LMT 16438

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July 2013—29

GRANTS Conservation Grants

At their June meeting, the Executive Council approved $17,000 in Conservation Grants, as follows. The funding comes from both budgeted conservation grant monies from the general budget, and from special endowments provided through the Oberteuffer and Ellis funds: $1,750 to Bark to support Rad°i°cle, a training program in public policy, community organizing, and in ecology and conservation. $1,500 to Friends of Mt. Hood for newsletter development for educaton and advocacy on latest developments around Mt. Hood related to four areas: (1) proposed land swap between MHM’s Cooper Spur properties and USFS land at Government Camp, (2) proposed expansion of wilderness, (3) water rights issues at Cooper Spur and (4) future development of the mountain. $2,500 to Gifford Pinchot Task Force to support a campaign to oppose potential 3,000 acre mine adjacent to Mount St. Helens and to continue work with other groups to develop a plan to address the GPNF’s failing road system.

$2,500 to Hells Canyon Preservation Council to support their Wildlife Watchers Project in NE Oregon, year three—gathering on-site data of species and connectivity habitat in the Wallowa and Blue Mountains. $2,500 to Oregon Natural Desert Association to support their Wilderness Stewardship and Restoration Program that engages volunteers in restoring ecologically vital landscapes while building public awareness. $1,750 to Oregon Wild to continue advocacy for protection of over 18,000 acres suitable for wilderness designation that were left out of the 2009 Mt. Hood legislation. $2,000 to Columbia Gorge Ecology Institute to support their Science In Action Program engaging middle-school students in field-based research projects. Program for under-served rural communities, coordinating with teachers to lead student conservation action teams. $2,500 to Siskiyou Mountain Club to support crew leaders who are responsible for safety, coordination and for meeting program goals to rehabilitate a 28-mile network of trails in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness Area.

Mazamas Awards Six Expedition Grants in 2013

The Mazama Expedition Committee provided financial support for the following expeditions: • Peak: Mt. Bute, Bute Inlet, BC. August 1–16 • Peak: Ripimo Shar, Rolwaling Himal, Nepal. Oct.–Nov. • Peak: Middle Peak, Wrangell St. Elias NP, Alaska. April 2013 • Peak: Peak 8095, Stikine Icecap, Southeast Alaska. July or Aug. • Peak: Pigeon Spire and Bugaboo Spire, Bugaboos, Canada. July 26– Aug. 4 • Peak: Multiple peaks, American Climber Science Program • Peru Expedition & Bolivia Explorations. June–Sept.

The Mazama Expedition Committee assists and encourages climbers to plan trips to worldwide destinations. The committee supports expedition climbing through grants, training, equipment lending and networking events. Read more about the expedition committee or apply for a grant at: http://tinyurl.com/ mazamaexpeditiongrants.

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Executive Council Minutes June 11, 2013

Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Doug Couch–President; Bronson Potter–Vice President; Terry Donahe–Treasurer; Meg Goldberg–Secretary; Judith Baker, Dyanne Foster, Sojo Hendrix, Bill McLoughlin, Joan Zuber. Absent: Sojo Hendrix Doug Couch called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m.

The minutes of the May 14, 2013 meeting were approved.

Membership Report: Oral Report by Meg Goldberg. There were 27 applications for membership and 4 reinstatements. Total Membership as of May 30, 2013 is 3,289. This is an increase of 123 members since last year this time.

Treasurer’s Report: Written report submitted by Terry Donahe. Report filed for audit.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available on page 3.

Written Committee Reports Pre-submitted: • Education • Programs • Conservation • Governing Documents • Nominating The reports were unanimously approved and received on the consent agenda.

Committees with no reports submitted: • CIDT • Library • Lodge • Publications • Research (Grants approved in May) • Regular Committee Reports Conservation Committee: The Committee reviewed Conservation Grant applications and prepared and submitted the recommendations to EC. The committee is requesting action from EC to approve the Conservation Grant recommendations. Kate Evans was in attendance to answer questions that the EC may have on the committee’s recommendations. Motion by Bronson Potter to approve the grants with the exception of the request from CRAG. Motion seconded.

Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Governing Documents: Matt Carter, on behalf of the Governing Documents Committee, updated the EC on the progress of the committee’s review and update of Mazama policies and procedures (P&P). Requesting action from the EC to approve Staff Authority P&P and Staff Evaluation P&P. Joan moves to approve both changes to P&P. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Nominating Committee: Brett Nair, on behalf of the Nominating Committee, updated the EC on the progress of selecting six candidates for the 2013 EC election (refer to the candidate list on this page).

New Business

Publications Committee Asks You to Think Ahead for Next Year’s Annual The Publications Committee is already in the planning stage for the 2013 Annual.

We would love to hear about your adventures this winter, spring, summer and fall, especially any climbingrelated stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas. We will help you edit any submissions you make. Please submit materials to mazama. annual@mazamas.org

We’d also like to Annual Celebration: Moved to next month’s encourage you to submit agenda high-resolution photos Mazama Climbers’ Ranch at Smith Rock of climbing, hiking or Communication Plan: Lee Davis updated backpacking, even if they are the EC on the timeline and an informational not attached to an article. We meeting for the membership is scheduled for would like to print a number mid August. of stand-alone photos from Holman Gift ($200,000) use direction: Lee members in upcoming reported that the donor intent of the gift was Annuals and we especially to go towards the Capital Campaign for the need vertically-oriented MMC and is asking for direction from the EC. (portrait mode) pictures.

Bronson Potter moves that the Tom Holman Photos must be 300 dpi. donation in the amount of $200,000 be Please give your photographs forwarded to the Mazama Foundation. Motion a descriptive file name and seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved. submit with a photo caption German-American School MMC Rental and credit. You can submit Proposal: Jamie Anderson presented on the your photos to the email proposal by the German-American School to address above. rent the MMC from 8 a.m.–1 p.m. Monday– Many thanks­—Mazama Friday bringing in $9,000 for the year in rental Publications Committee. income. The school would use the auditorium and the annex behind the climbing walls and the basement. They would need to set up a play structure in the Thank you to our 2013 auditorium. After discussion it was Candidates for Executive Council decided that the MMC would not be a good fit for the school.

• Larry Beck Meeting adjourned at 8:08 p.m.

• Heather Campbell Next Executive Council Meeting: • Kate Evans Tuesday, July 9 at 6:30 p.m. at the • Walter Keutel MMC.

• Amy Mendenhall • John Rettig

The Mazamas Annual Election will be held on Monday, Oct. 7, 2013

July 2013—31

MazamasÂŽ 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org address service requested

It’s Coming.

Mazama Annual Celebration

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

conrad anker nov. 15 Left Bank Annex