July Mazama Bulletin

July/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 7 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high

The Education Issue!

FEATURES Enjoying a nice day of BCEP 2014: What a Year, p. 6 rock practice at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Alex My BCEP Experience, p. 8 Gauthier.

BCEP Journaling, p. 9 Recollections from BCEP, p. 9 Cover: Stephanie Keske, Is ICS For You?, p. 10 2014 BCEP grad, heading An ICS Student Interview: Erin Wirtz, p. 10 up the Mazama Chute Reflections on ICS, p. 11 on Mt. Hood on a Skill-Builders: Small Investment, Big Returns, p. 12 June 8, 2014, led by Greg Willmarth. Photo: Advanced Snow & Beginning Ice, p. 14 Benjamin B. Grandy.

Why ASI? An Interview with Elisabeth Bowers, p. 16 Ski Mountaineering Program: An Intro, p. 17 Mazama Nordic Ski School: “Ski in Means”, p. 18 Student Reflections: Claudio Schroeder, p. 19 Advanced Rock 2014 Review, p. 20 My AR Experience, p. 22 Book Review: The AMC Guide to Outdoor Leadership, p. 28 Tales From The Forbidden Peak, p. 30 MONTHLY COLUMNS Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Classic Mazamas, p. 24 20s & 30s Mazamas, p. 25 Lodge News, p. 26 Mazama Families, p. 27 Mazama Leadership Cohort, p. 13 Outings, p. 29 Successful Climbers, p. 33 Trail Trips, p. 34 Membership Report, p. 38 Executive Council Minutes, p. 39

Contact Us

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.

Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon

Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)

Executive Director’s Report Dear members, July marks the beginning of summer alpine climbing season. It’s the month when better weather conditions, better snow conditions and more sunlight all coincide to create nearly ideal opportunities to hike deeper into the mountains and test our skills. For hundreds of new Mazamas each year the summer climb season is when they first experience clear starry nights at a basecamp in the North Cascades, scrambling or climbing on beautiful alpine rock spires or the joys of efficiently ascending firm consolidated snow in the morning and a swift glissade back to camp in the afternoon.

For many, we improve our skills and train all year for these precious summer months of experiences in the alpine environment, and we do this through taking or volunteering to teach Mazama classes. Our classes teach new and old climbers how to responsibly and safely recreate in the mountains. We hear every year from countless students that our programs are an incredible value and how what they learned in a Mazama class actually has changed their life.

Demand for most of our programs at the Mazamas is based mostly on word-ofmouth recommendations from past students to prospective students. Even without any external marketing efforts we have more people wanting to take our classes than we can serve. Why is that, and what should we do about it? The answer is basically two fold: On the one hand, we can’t provide enough classes simply because we don’t have enough resources to expand our programs quickly.

For example, to double just one of our midsize classes like the Nordic school, we would need 10-20 volunteer leaders, about 20 more assistant volunteers, access to more meeting space at the MMC (which is now full most weeks), more administrative support from the already very busy committee, and access to more Nordic terrain on USFS land, as well as permits.

Second, our students recommend our classes to their friends both because of skills learned and because of the social engagement they experience in the class.

As we offer more classes we create more people that are sharing their stories with their friends which further increases demand for our programs. Simply put, the more classes we offer the higher the demand we see for our classes in general.

There is probably a limit to this trend, but we certainly haven’t seen it yet and I think a big part of that is that people have a need for fellowship and community. It’s a need that churches and clubs used to satisfy well in the 20th century, but that modern life, technologies and social media really don’t serve well.

By spending time in Mazama classes with five or ten other people that have similar interests, values and experiences our students form friendships that often continue for many years. Mazama classes and supplementary activities gather together like-minded people and provide them with challenging and relevant experiences. We ask students to challenge themselves together, to succeed together and to fail together. These shared growth experiences are adventurous, inspiring and often very emotional. They form the bonds of fellowship that serve everyone’s need for community and make Mazamas so strong.

As I said last month, our education programs are nearly unique and are our greatest opportunity to expand our ability to pursue our mission. Other than our friends The Mountaineers in Washington

“As we offer more classes we create more people that are sharing their stories with their friends which further increases demand for our programs. Simply put, the more classes we offer the higher the demand we see for our classes in general.” there simply aren’t any other comprehensive educational programs available in the U.S. that help regular people learn to safely recreate in the mountain environment.

Our strategic planning committee has been working with committees and council on a revision to our plan, and our board has already set clear priorities.

Finding new ways to recruit and train volunteer leaders is our top priority because we believe it is at the core of our capacity limitations. In the mean time our Education Committee continues to develop a few new classes each year. We’re adding skill builders, mountain running camps, expanding summer BCEP and finding new ways to teach intermediate snow and ice climbing skills.

For all of you that are interested in learning more, meeting new people and building a community of like minded alpinists we’re happy to report that our 2014–15 education calendar is already planned and is posted on the website now. I encourage you to go to our master calendar or our education pages to see what’s coming up in the year ahead and to start planning your next steps!

See you in the mountains,

Lee Davis Executive Director

Membership Benefits NEW! Trailbutter (trailbutter.com) 20%. Go to the member section of the Mazama website for code. Also availalbe at the MMC. Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only

Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15%

Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10%

Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, Ore.) 10%

The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals

Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% nonsale items only

Rock and Ice Magazine Annual subscription 40% off. Go to Mazama website for code.

Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships

U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

Mountaineers Books Save 20%. Get the code on the Mazama website in the members section.

Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items July/2014—3

Education, Mazamas Style

by Marty Scott, Education Committee Chair Welcome to the Mazamas education programs. Whether your interest is mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, nordic skiing, ski mountaineering, expedition climbing or first aid, we have classes to help you learn the skills to be safe and have fun in the mountains.

The Education Committee oversees all Mazama education programs. The committee is made up of a core committee and representatives from each of the subcommittees that operate the Mazama classes. There is a subcommittee for each education program, including the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), Advanced Rock (AR), Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI), the Nordic Ski School, Ski Mountaineering, First Aid and the Expedition Course. The members of the core committee have an interest or background in adult education, form development, adult learning, curriculum development or class development. The members of the individual subcommittees have knowledge of the class subject area and an interest in sharing that knowledge with others.

In general, the Education Committee and its subcommittees are responsible for all Mazama classes including curriculum development, new class development, training programs for instructors and assistants, the design and collection of feedback on all classes, and the scheduling of all Mazama classes to minimize conflicts.

The Education Committee and school subcommittees are always looking for new members for core committee and the individual subcommittees. Contact education@mazamas.org if you are interested in getting involved.

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Education Issue Welcome to our special Education Issue of the Bulletin. For this edition we have compiled articles from our class coordinators, journal entries from students, comments and thoughts from assistants and instructors.

You’ll find information on our biggest programs, including all of our climbing classes, nordic skiing, and ski mountaineering.

Our website is now up to date with all of the class dates for the 2014/2015 year of classes. So logon and check out all of the offerings.

From skill-builders, to climbing, to first aid—we have a class for you!

Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Front Desk Office Volunteers Tuesdays or Wednesdays, 3–7 p.m.

Front Desk Office Volunteers are integral to operations of the MMC. They conduct a large portion of the daily business including: responding to queries, processing applications, maintaining databases and processing payments. Volunteers should be confident with basic software and webbased applications and have good customer service skills. Contact Kati@mazamas.org.

Bookkeeping volunteers

and support letters, and engaging land managers and policy makers • Organizing talks and programs with conservation leaders, scholars, and public officials on key issues • Writing articles for the Mazama blog and Bulletin to keep members informed of conservation issues and successes Contact Ally Imbody, Conservation Committee co-Chair, aimbody@gmail.com.

Expedition Committee Thursday, July 17 at 7 p.m.

We are seeking a bookkeeping assistant to help exclusively with data entry. This volunteer will be using deposit spreadsheets, the chart of accounts, and department lists to correctly record all organizational income. Schedules are flexible but busier at the end of the month. Contact Jamie Anderson, Member Services Manager, jamie@mazamas.org if interested.

Expedition Committee is looking for new members! As an expedition committee member, you will participate in reviewing expedition grant applications. You will, along with the committee, determine if an application is approved and the amount of the grant to be offered. What fun, giving your fellow Mazamas money to go climbing! Join us at our third Thursday of the month meeting, or contact Ron Fridell, ron.fridell@comcast.net to learn more.

20s & 30s hosts

Classic Mazamas Task Force

Flexible

First Monday of the Month Climb Night is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. We need friendly Climb Night Hosts to welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. Hosts can choose which of the local climbing gyms to host at. Contact Beth Copeland, 20sand30s@ mazamas.org, to sign up or get more info.

Conservation Committee Third Wednesday of the Month The Conservation Committee is seeking members to support our efforts to protect the alpine environments where we climb.

Anyone interested is invited to attend our next committee meeting on Wednesday, July 16 at 7 p.m. at the MMC, to meet current members and learn more about getting involved in activities, such as: • Selecting grant recipients and overseeing grants to local community partner organizations • Supporting the Mazama goal of becoming carbon neutral through activities like tree planting • Researching issues, drafting advocacy

Friday, July 18 at 11 a.m.

The Old Timers are now the Classic Mazamas! Join our task force to rebuild the committee and plan activities for those looking to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We are currently recruiting for: • We need a capable manager to take over from Executive Counil Liaison Kate Evans to lead the committee.

• Communications manager: this person will be responsible for managing communications with the Classic Mazamas list serv.

• Activity planners: these volunteers will plan hikes, as well as social and cultural excursions for the group.

For more information or to sign up, contact classics@mazamas.org.

Mazama Trail Work Party July 24–26 Join us for the Annual Mazama Trail Work Party, Thursday, July 24–Saturday, July 26.

Camping permit fees will be covered and dinner provided for the volunteers who can commit to multiple days. Full details are on page 38. To sign up, contact Ray Sheldon, rbshldn@pacifier.com or call the office, 503-227-2345.

Trailkeepers of Oregon Sunday, July 27 Didn’t get enough trail tending on the Mazama Trail? Join our partners, Trailkeepers of Oregon (TKO) as they build a trail to connect the Douglas trail with its new trailhead. For more information or to sign up contact Becky Schreiber at volunteers@trailkeepersoforegon.org.

Portland Alpine Fest—Summit Coordinator Ongoing This year, the Annual Celebration will be known as “The Summit.” This is the capstone event of the Portland Alpine Fest, on the evening of Saturday, Nov. 8. We are looking for an enthusiastic event manager to join the team and manage The Summit, which will include a silent auction, a vendor fair, our annual awards and a presentation by a celebrity speaker. Join the PAF team at their monthly meeting, 7 p.m. at the MMC on the first Wednesday of the month; or contact Chair Tim Scott, timscott@ alumni.princeton.edu, for more information.

Mazama Families Hike Leader Ongoing The Mazama Families Committee is looking for family hike leaders. Volunteers should be enthusiastic about working with kids and must be willing to obtain basic first aid certification and pass a background check. Contact Bob Murphy, families@mazamas.org, for information.

Youth Climb Camp—new dates!

Tues./Thursday, July 2–-Aug. 7 6:30–8:30 p.m.

Teach kids how to belay! This 5-session course will teach kids (ages 9-17) how to tie in, belay and use proper safety commands. This will be a two week evening class consisting of four two-hour sessions at the MMC, followed by a Saturday at the Source Rock Gym in Vancouver.

Contact Kati, kati@mazamas.org, if you would like to be involved. Note: volunteers will be required to pass a background check.

July/2014—5

BCEP 2014: What a Year!

by Andrew Bodien, BCEP Coordinator 2014 was an ambitious year for the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). The BCEP Committee took on many new initiatives, most of which proved to be successful. This year BCEP sold out, with 278 applicants. We had a healthy waiting list and in the end there were 233 students; 227 completed all of the requirements for BCEP. The committee made a dedicated effort to communicate with BCEP stakeholders, especially climb leaders. Leading up to BCEP, input was sought whenever major changes where contemplated. This year I gave a presentation at Climb Leader update and wrote articles for the Climb Leader Newsletter to share the direction that the committee was headed.

The committee also made heavy use of its Google account for centralized communication and record retention.

Dedicated folders were created for instructors and students for distribution of materials. We had a link created between the Mazama Leaders Webpage and the BCEP Instructor Google Folder for ease of access.

In the fall, a survey was sent out to Climb Leaders using Google Forms.

One of the tasks of the BCEP Committee was to get the program in line with the new Scope and Sequence document as set by the Climbing and Education Committees.

This document spells out which skills are taught and in which classes. It is intended to represent the minimum skills that students will be able to demonstrate upon completion of each class. As a result, changes were to made to the BCEP curriculum, student assessments and required gear lists.

Four BCEP Committee members with background in education started a thorough review of the BCEP curriculum. The goal was to offer consistency and integration in all aspects of the curriculum. This turned out to be a complex and vast undertaking.

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We determined which changes could be realistically completed this year and which ones could be addressed in the upcoming years. As a result of this survey, we generated a detailed list of BCEP student objectives.

With each objective, we provided guidance on where in the curriculum students could find relevant materials for that objective. We received positive feedback on this, and are looking forward to continuing to integrate the various aspects of the BCEP Curriculum.

The BCEP Committee also made some major changes to the written and skill assessments. We started by putting the written test online. This was done to free up more time for the skill assessments.

To bring the assessment in line with the Scope and Sequence we tested students on belaying from above the pitch, instead of a top rope belay. We also rewrote the criteria for the skills assessment so it was very clear whether or not a student had mastered the skills. Giving evaluators permission not to pass a student on a skill was a major step in improving our curriculum. We also used a combination of Google Forms,WiFi and evaluator’s smartphones and tablets to put scoring for the skill assessment online. While there were a small amount of lost data, it turned out to be wildly successful. During the test we able to monitor progress through the various test stations in real time, allowing us to quickly reallocate resources. We are very excited about using the data from the written and skills assessment to improve instruction and evaluation next year.

There were two specialized teams in BCEP this year. For the second year in a row there was an all female team. In 2013 there were five students on this team, this year there were nine. We were pleased to see the increase in demand. Also, in the past the inability to attend field sessions on the weekend has been a barrier to many who

wanted to attend BCEP. After doing some research the committee decided there was enough demand to create a BCEP team that would have its field sessions on a weekday.

Not only did this offer those who work on the weekend the chance to participate in BCEP, but it provided relief on the demand for space at Mazama Lodge and Horsethief Butte.

The committee also sought permission to include the autoblock in the BCEP curriculum. In previous years the eBCEP program had taught the autoblock and found that BCEP students were able to successfully use this skill. The committee polled climb leaders and 63 percent of those who responded were in favor of teaching the autoblock at the BCEP level.

After getting approval we prepared for this new material by producing an instructional video, educating BCEP leaders at the leader orientation and revising the required gear list. At this point, we have not received the formal feedback on the autoblock, but we do know that a lower than expected percentage of students chose to use it during the skills assessment. I recognize not all were in favor of teaching the autoblock in BCEP, but I did see many instances where it was successfully incorporated into the curriculum.

With the conclusion of BCEP in 2014, the committee is well poised to move forward.

Our efforts to review the curriculum have provided direction for integration and consistency. There are clear objectives that tell instructors what they need to teach and students what they’re expected to learn. We have good data that provides insights into how to effectively teach and test students.

Finally, the committee’s willingness to take on new initiatives provided valuable experiences to continue the Mazama tradition of education in alpine climbing skills.

From left to right: Self arrest practice on Mt. Hood. Belaying from top of pitch at Horsethief.

Giving the legs a workout on Hamilton Mountain. Photos: Alex Gauthier.

Volunteering and education are two of the values of the Mazamas that are alive and strong in our Basic Climbing Education Program. What started last summer with the committee laying the groundwork ends with an army of leaders, assistants, speakers and safety officers.

A big thank you to the 230 plus volunteers that shared their passion of alpine climbing to help educate another generation of climbers. As coordinator I would like to recognize the following individuals for their contribution. With such a vast number of volunteers, it is difficult to recognize everyone, so my apologies to those that I missed.

BCEP Committee

Andrew Bodien, Coordinator Chris Kruell, Assistant Coordinator Josh Lockerby Darrell Weston Daniel Mick Susan Jeltsch Reuel Kurezt Kristen Labudda April Berlin Matt Blecharz Jeff Jackson Virginia Tarango Scott Osbron

BCEP Leaders

Daniel Bailey Larry Beck Gary Bishop Rayce Boucher Lisa Brady Dick Bronder Richard Caldwell Matthew Carter Eric Hoem Eileen Kieley Chris Kruell Eugene Lewins Josh Lockerby Bill McLoughlin Amy Mendenhall Lynne Pedersen Jay Satak George Shay Paul Steger Paul Underwood Steve Warner Darrell Weston Greg Willmarth Bruce Yatvin Ania Wiktorowicz Walter Keutel Keith Campbell

BCEP Assistants Ann Ames John Andrews Bertie August Sharon Baker Gary Ballou Nicholas Bard Andrew Bauer Tom Baughman Laura Baughman Laura Bax Tyler Bax April Berlin Amber Beyer Sharon Birchfield Derick Black Matt Blecharz Angela Bohlke Jason Brabec Justin Brady Audrey Brown Stephanie Bruckbauer Doug Brumfield Ruby Brunk Carol Bryan Kenneth Carlson Kevin Carrigan Nicole Castonguay Jean Cavanaugh Chris Chris Kevin Clark Dan Codorean Justin Colquhoun Patrice Cook Beth Copeland Dan Crisp Amanda Crochet George Cummings Tom Davidson Howie Davis Jessica Deans Dianne Denotter Abhishek Dhanotia Susan Dimin Amad Doratotaj Alicia Dupont

Joe Eberhardt Kim Edger Stanley Enevoldsen Joe Ferguson Sarah Freel Ardel Frick Brinda Ganesh Margaret Gauthier Alex Gauthier Dan Gerbus Martin Gillen Tammie Gillen Sue Giordano Amy Graham Benjamin Grandy Karen Graves Dave Groudle Sabina Grover Laura Guderyahn Dave Harkins Shane Harlson Heath Harrelson Morgan Harvey Kim Hefty Amy Hendrix Marjorie Hendryx Stephen Hirai Sarah Holmes Ronald Hope Alexis Hult Jenn Hunsicker Jeff Jackson Benjamin Jacob Ruwan Jayaweera Susan Jeltsch Mary-Margaret Jenkins Evelyn Johnson Ryan Jones Doug Jones Jason Juhala Eric Kennedy Brian Klump Sue Ann Koniak Ronald Kravitz Regis Krug Carolyn Kruger

Kirstin Labudda Dean Land Karl Langenwalter Rae Lantsberger Laurie Laverdiere Trung Le Andrew Leaf Mike Leonard-Maguire Daniel Leone Wendy Leone Whitney Lindahl Michael Linn Meryl Lipman Alex Lockard Joshua Lupkin Michael Magyar Ryan Maher Helen Maher Elizabeth Mahon Linda Mark Bridget Martin Jesus Martinez Marta Martinez Margaret Mccarthy Annie Mccartney John Meckel Rico Micallef Amanda Montalto Brian Montalto Corrie Morse Carmen Nale Thomas Nancarrow Patricia Neighbor Kevin Nelson Kirk Newgard Bradley Noren Robert Norton Tommy Norwood Shane O’Hara Barry O’Mahony Andrea Ogston Nick Olsen Brad Ostapkowicz Samuel Parrish Hal Paver Joe Petsche

Seng Phou Susan Pierce Joe Powell Douglas Pratt Erika Price Elizabeth Puskar Bianca Pyko David Pyszkowski Sheena Raab Mike Raff Sarah Raff Gregory Ragland Naveen Ramaswamy Chris Rears Teresa Redman Edward Rei Darin Richardson Johnathan Righetti Sanman Rokade Sarah Root Kent Ross Andrew Rowlettleann Cyndy Rutto Charlie Sattgast Andrew Schiestl Michael Schoen Brandon Schwartz Hannah Seebach Roger Sharp Ashish Shavarna Leslie Shotola Greg Slater Mark Stave Richard Stellner Andrew Stronach Eric Swanson Virginia Tarango Kelly Thomas Joe Timko Dana Tofall Jill Torberson Rachel Tramel Jen Travers Mary Turner Chris Valencia Jennifer Van Houten

Kevin Vandemore Karen Vernier Jason Wagner Steven Wagoner Joan Wallace Kaleb Wallace Shannon Walls Kim Wegener Barbara Weiss Jeremiah West Guy Wettstein Robin Wilcox Graeme Wilson Laura Wilson Erin Wirtz Mark Wittrock April Wolstencroft Maggie Woodward Yvonne Yeh Candy Yiu Sahmie Yun Safety Officers Ryan Christie Nate Mullen Mike Schoen Hannah Seebach Patrice Cook Natalie Todd-Zebell Joe Whittington Dan Schuster Andrew Bodien Speakers Darrell Weston Spencer Leek Steve Heikkila Jay Stagnone Natalie Lozano Lori Burton Brian McCormick James Jula John Barthomew Greg Scott Kati Mayfield

July/2014—7

My BCEP Experience John Merrill The Pacific Northwest had been calling me for a long time. I had been living in the desert of Southern Nevada for decades, earning a living on the Las Vegas Strip and spending weekends hiking trails and peaks throughout the southwest and as far as the Rockies. My wife and I had tackled a couple of the 14’ers, traversed the Grand Canyon several times, and thought of ourselves as “serious backpackers/ mountaineers.”

Upon moving to Portland a couple of years ago, we did an internet search for hiking opportunities in the area and naturally stumbled upon the Mazamas.

After reading about the organization and some of the activities involved, we realized that we had an awful lot to learn. There aren’t a whole lot of glaciers where we come from so we had zero experience with the more technical aspects of mountaineering and rock climbing.

It was all pretty intimidating!

We weren’t able to take BCEP the first year we were here. We had both recently started new jobs and weren’t certain of the time commitment. But spring rolled around again and we decided that we simply had to make it work. Not only to learn the skills, but also to gain access to a larger community of people who were out there safely enjoying the outdoors and sharing their knowledge and stories.

The course had some tough moments for sure. There were seven weeks of classes to attend and many conditioning hikes and activities—some mandatory, some optional—to fit into our busy schedules.

But every minute of it was so worth it.

Having a commitment to get outside every weekend, rain or shine, turned out to be much more of a pleasure than we thought it would be.

We couldn’t have asked for better instructors, assistants, and students in our group. Lynne and Amy devoted a ton of their time to make sure that everyone had an opportunity to learn the necessary skills to pass the course and more importantly, to have a heck of a good time doing it. The assistants had a variety of experiences—many of them having recently gone through BCEP themselves, others who were going through the ICS course—all of them with more

experience on rock and snow than I had.

And the students! What a great group of characters they were. Many of us are still getting out on the weekends having fun, sharing knowledge and tackling new and exciting peaks all the time.

Since BCEP, I have had the opportunity to use many of the skills learned in the class on recent hikes and climbs. Simply learning what gear works, what to have in your pack and where to put it is invaluable knowledge to have.

I learned on a soggy day out on Table Mountain that “water-resistant” and “waterproof” are not nearly the same thing and that a used, ten-year old rain shell—while cost-effective—may not be the best piece of apparel to keep one warm and dry in the Gorge.

On our Catherine Creek hike, I learned that ticks are very real and that it may be time to invest in a good pair of gaiters and some strong bug repellant.

Up on the Palmer Glacier, I suddenly realized why our instructors had told us to practice putting on and taking off our crampons at home and to make sure that they fit the boots we were going to use before getting up on the ice and snow.

After climbing to the top of Unicorn Peak and rappelling down, I learned just how much fun it is to glissade down a snow field, and just how dangerous even a small avalanche can be.

Most recently, on a climb of Middle Sister, I learned how oh-so important all of those map and compass skills are when trying to find a route in the snow with no signs of a trail or bootpath to lead you on your way. I learned a whole new respect for the snow and weather-conditiondetermining skills that we learned in class.

Prior to BCEP, many of these little challenges would have seemed a little too scary and perhaps would have limited some of the adventures that we would have been willing to take. But it all seems a whole lot more manageable now. There is a calm satisfaction in understanding the way that things work and in trusting the skills you have learned. I am excited to continue learning and to hopefully someday teach others.

I would encourage anyone to commit to taking and completing the BCEP course.

From top: Snow day at Mt. Hood. Enjoying a hike on Hamilton Mountain. Rock practice at Horsethief Butte. Photos: Alex Gauthier.

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BCEP Journaling

by Hannah Carlton Rock Weekend: My mom used to teach BCEP when I was a kid and I was often dragged along for rock weekend to Horsethief Butte. My only memories of this place consisted of my pudgy awkward 12-year-old self clinging helplessly to the rock as my mom yelled, “TRUST YOUR FEET!” All of this while the terribly cool BCEP students watched from below. Well, today I shattered some of that deep seeded trauma and created some new memories of Horsethief Butte - memories of stunning views, climbing chimneys, rappelling down rock faces and of course, trusting my feet.

Conditioning Hike: Catherine Creek and Coyote Wall This was supposed to be the easy hike but all I know is that it kicked my ass (literally, and that I have some serious blisters happening. Plus side: wildflowers galore, views of the gorge, and not a drop of rain!

Camping at Maryhill before Rock day: It’s tent city here tonight! Everyone has shiny new top-of-the-line uberlight and ultra-awesome tents except me. My tent was my boyfriends since he was in boy scouts….and that was a long time ago.

It even received the nickname “Hipster tent” from the Bri Berglund gets her other students but it still get me warm, dry, and was a trekking poles ready. great conversation starter!

Photo: Hannah Carlton.

Recollections from BCEP

by Jeff Maag Early March—I’m a new Mazama and BCEP intimidates me. Had a great first Mazama hike in Forest Park with Terry and Marilyn who gave me a lot of great background on the club and also told me about weeknight rambles. A few days later on one of Tom’s level 3.0 rambles, Lisa and Daniel gave me a very warm welcome and explained BCEP­—I felt less intimidated but I was huffing and puffing more than I expected.

March 18th First night of BCEP. Not sure of my personal goal ...it’s mostly to get into better shape and to open up some new territory beyond my usual backpacking and hiking. That alone would be a revolution! Very intimidated by the idea of rock climbing – am I too heavy and too weak to do it? Looks like we’ve got a good, diverse team of 12, two great teachers and a bunch of assistants – what a volunteer effort this is!

March 20, Thursday: Hanging from a sling at the Mountain Shop. Is this thing gonna hold me? Scary!

March 22, Saturday morning, Hamilton Mountain training hike: Wonderful surprise treats at the top!

March 22, Saturday evening, simulated belaying and rappelling in the stairwells at MCM: I’m worried. This is a lot to remember! I’ve never done any of this before.

March 23, Sunday, MCM wall: Having done it I now believe I can be a rock climber. I understand and trust the safety of the techniques we have been taught, what a great hands-on learning experience. Felt like a fledgling perched up on top of the MCM wall with a few students and our excellent ICS mentors.

April 2, Wednesday, Portland Rock Gym: Tommy and several other assistants took us to PRG and were our belay slaves, coaches

and cheerleaders. Super helpful practice just before Horsethief weekend.

April 5, Saturday, Catherine Creek hike: The whole group is here, it’s Horsethief Butte weekend. This old car loaded with BCEP students has that nice new gear smell to it. We are turning into a team.

April 6, Horsethief Butte Sunday, real rock climbing: All the volunteer teachers are so patient, so generous to give up a beautiful weekend and get up earlier than us to set up routes. Nice to meet pioneering Mazama sport climber (Tom?) who was revisiting some of his anchors here. Huge breakthrough day, the rock climbing was awesome and it was such a beautiful setting. Gratitude!

April 12/13, Snow weekend at Mazama Lodge: There’s a real feel of tradition and history at the lodge, so glad to be part of it.

April 29, Tuesday, BCEP Graduation: Yeah I passed! All that repetition in the field, muscle memory, carried the day—I get this stuff. Will certainly miss the group ... an intense learning experience like this seems to be a rarity in our society, I really enjoyed it!

May 20, Tuesday morning around 6:30 a.m., on the summit of Mt. Hood: Exactly two months after the start of BCEP, wild! BCEP and the huge efforts of countless Mazama volunteers have taken me to a place I never would have imagined a year ago, much less at the beginning of the class. So much gratitude to the 2014 BCEP teachers, assistants and students, as well as all of those that have come before us. Life is grand! Thank you Mazamas. I look forward to assisting with BCEP next year.

Extended Content! Go to mazamas. blogspot.com for recollections from Team 12 climb leader, Amy Mendenhall and from Alex Gauthier, assistant for Dick Bronder & Richard Caldwell.

A sunny day of snow skills practice at Timberline. Photo: Dan Gerbus.

Is ICS For You?

by Dan Gerbus, ICS 2014/2015 Coordinator This year marks the fifth year I’ll be involved with running ICS, our Intermediate Climbing School, and now I take the helm.

Through these years in ICS I have seen 158 students graduate. Each class has approximately 40 students. An average of 37 percent are women, and typically 80 individual volunteer assistants help each year.

I’ve conducted several surveys in the past year and am using that data to make incremental improvements to the class. We will have more opportunities for students to practice skills, the cohesiveness between topics will improve with a strong objective for each skill, and our

volunteer assistants will be provided with more support and information.

The ICS curriculum is challenging.

We’ll cover advanced belays and rappelling techniques, movement on rock and snow, rock and snow anchors, crevasse rescue, leadership, avalanche awareness, snow camping, high angle snow, navigation, and single and multi-pitch climbing. This merely highlights most of the topics covered. To learn more about the class, go to mazamas. org/education-classes/intermediate-climbingschool-ics/ for a virtual information night as well as a FAQ page covering many of the questions ICS candidates have.

I pledge to provide a solid learning

An ICS Student Interview: Erin Wirtz What made you sign up for ICS? I used to think that folks who signed up for ICS were crazy. It seemed like it was full of crazy things that I would never be able to do. But as I gained experience I found I was so eager to learn more. It was a fairly slow process but I started to warm up to the idea until it became a major focus for me. Now I have my sights set on more classes!

What was the best part of ICS? There have been so many things I have loved about ICS but the best would have to be the rock sessions out at Smith. I had so much fun climbing and learning. I wished we could have had a few more weekends out there!

Did you do anything in ICS that you never thought you would do?

My biggest fear was the snow cave. I was terrified. I was so stressed out about it and could not fathom how I was going to survive.

I was on an awesome team who were very nice about my ridiculous fear. I had no idea

what to expect. In the end it wasn’t so bad, we didn’t have to dig ourselves out in the morning and now I think it was one of the coolest things I’ve done.

What was a challenge of ICS that you didn’t anticipate?

I didn’t expect it to feel like it was going so fast. There were definitely times I wished we had more time to work on the skills we were being taught.

Do you have any big climbing goals?

I am very excited to get out to Smith and push my climbing. I can’t wait to get out of town! I’m also hoping to actually get Mt. Hood and Mt. Rainier this year.

What has been your most memorable climbing experience?

I think I would have to say my first climb which was on Mount St. Helens. My BCEP instructor led a climb the first weekend after BCEP was over and made it an overnight trip

environment that accommodates students of different backgrounds, expertise, and experiences. It’s also going to be a blast. A common theme I see in all of the surveys involves the camaraderie students develop while in the class. They meet fellow climbers wanting to climb at similar levels. They find people that can safely push their climbing levels. Some overcome fears and nurture a new confidence in climbing. Others have found themselves yearning to lead and go into our Leadership Development Program. If this class sounds like something fits you, go check out our webpage or email me: Mazamas.ics@gmail.com.

Erin atop Unicorn Peak.

Photo: Kim Edger.

to teach us about snow camping. I learned so much that weekend! I thought Mount St. Helens was enormous and so steep. I couldn’t believe people did it in one day and I was convinced I was going to slip right off the side of the mountain. We did the same climb a year later with the next year’s BCEP group in a day and it really put into perspective how much I had learned in my first year of climbing. So rad!

Any words of wisdom for anyone considering ICS for 2014/15?

Do it. Sign up. I’ve learned so much and gained so many new friends. The time commitment is up there but it goes so fast!

And now that the classes and testing are over, I have to admit I miss it!

Reflections on ICS

by Andrea Ogston

I

took the Intermediate Climbing School in 2013 to 2014. The course runs from September until March each year. I had an incredibly positive experience in the class and felt that my climbing skills improved to a level I never imagined possible in such a short period of time. I highly recommend it.

I am relatively new to the Mazamas. I took the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) in 2013 with Darrell Weston. Like many climbers, I came to mountaineering after a long career predominately hiking. At the time I signed up for BCEP I did not actually know it would involve rock climbing and spent the majority of BCEP asking Darrell the likelihood of my dying in every activity we engaged in that involved a distance greater than 5 feet from the ground. It should come as no surprise to those who know Darrell, but he was very patient and tolerant with my acrophobia which ultimately lead to my fear of heights becoming more manageable. This also helped give me confidence to take ICS immediately after BCEP. I spent the summer after BCEP climbing as many peaks as I could.

I received varying advice on when is the right time to take ICS. Some folks advised that it would be better to wait a couple of climb seasons before taking on the next level of classes, the idea being that with additional experience you have more context for the course material.

I decided not to wait to apply because I felt highly motivated and the timing felt right for my own personal goals to feel more independent and competent in mountaineering environments. While I had volunteered for a year as a mountain guide in Guatemala, I had never done any technical climbing prior to BCEP. I wanted to deepen those skills while the basics were still fresh in my mind.

In retrospect, I feel like I made the right decision.

This year’s coordinator, Gary Ballou, had an amazing knack for positive, supportive thoughts which gave the class

a sense of cohesion. There is no question that ICS is a major time commitment, however, I found that we had many breaks which allowed me to get caught up on my life and other obligations. I have a relatively demanding job and at times felt a little strapped for time, but it was largely manageable.

I joined the Mazamas during a period in my life when I was consciously working to build more community for myself. I had recently lost both of my parents and ended a long-term relationship—if you can have a mid-life crisis at 33, that was roughly my mental space. Community and choosing to engage can be complicated, and at times, messy. I feel like I learned how to stay engaged in a community even when I felt conflicted by organizational decisions. I met many members whom I really respected because saw how they gave their time and energy to the club and worked to bring about the changes they wanted rather than simply throwing up their hands. ICS allowed me to get to know more about the Mazamas through all the generous volunteers who gave their time to come out and teach. I feel very fortunate that I had this opportunity and am very grateful to Gary Ballou and Dan Gerbus (“coordinator-elect”) for making this such a positive experience.

Top: Enjoying the campfire at one of the ICS potlucks. Bottom: On rappel at Smith Rock.

Photos: Justin Colquhoun.

July/2014—11

Skill-Builders: small Investment, BIG Returns

by Marty Scott, Education Committee Chair

A bluebird day for crevasse rescue practice on Mt. Hood.

So you want to take your climbing to the next level but don’t have the time, cash or energy to invest in a class that requires weeks or months of attendance at lectures and field sessions. The answer may be a Skill-Builder.

Skill-Builders are classes or clinics that usually require students attend an evening lecture and a one day field session. These classes focus on a specific mountaineering or mountain related skill and are meant to compliment, not replace, the longer, more comprehensive classes taught in the beginning, intermediate and advanced climbing programs.

Currently the Mazamas offer Skill-Builders in the following areas: • Alpine Photography • Level I Avalanche • Basic Rock Skills • Crevasse Rescue • Ice climbing • Rock Anchors • Snow Camping • Wilderness Navigation—GPS • Wilderness Navigation—Map and Compass Further information, dates and costs on these and other opportunities are available on the Mazamas website at www.mazamas.org under the Education and Classes tab.

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12 —Mazama Bulletin

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Mazama Leadership Cohort

by Richard Schuler Twenty one participants just completed the first ever Leadership Cohort last weekend at the Mazama Lodge, and I was proud to be one of them. This new program aims to be proactive about recruiting and training people to take on various leadership roles at the Mazamas. Its goal is to identify potential leaders, teach them new skills, and enhance existing talents.

The group was mostly made up of recent BCEP grads, but also included some more seasoned members of the Mazamas. People were nominated to the program by established leaders within the club (such as BCEP leaders) because they exhibited characteristics that make climbing teams function well. On the first night of class, we were encouraged to think of the talents we use in our professional lives, and how that skill set could be pressed into service for outdoor adventures.

How might an electrician, an engineer, an architect or a teacher inspire others, and pull people together for a common goal?

The program consisted of four classroom sessions at the MMC, and one capstone weekend at the lodge, culminating in a group project. Participants worked from The Appalacian Mountain Club Guide to Outdoor Leadership to learn about leadership styles and decision making. We learned our Myers-Briggs personality type, and how people with different outlooks can work together to become an effective team. This helped us work through risk assessment/accident management scenarios from actual climbing mishaps.

The bulk of the work done by participants was for their group project. They divided into three groups—a trail trip team, an education team, and a stewardship team—each presided over by a mentor and focusing on a different type of leadership. The trail trip group organized three hikes to Tom, Dick and Harry, Twin Lakes and Palmateer Point. The result was a great conditioning exercise, and three new hike leaders. The education group provided the rest of the cohort with a cooking gear review, recipes for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the backcountry. They taught us how to look beyond freeze-dried meals, and to combine non-perishables into exciting new ideas, like a pancake in a bag, or chicken salad. The lesson ended with instructions on how to dehydrate whole meals such as chili, or gumbo.

The lodge group planned and executed a work project that focused on the grounds behind the lodge. It provided a great opportunity to put leadership and problem solving skills to work as we moved rocks, spread bark chips and re-established native plants. It was an invigorating way to end a very positive weekend. In the words of one participant, “It was great to spend time with such an outstanding bunch of people, doing cool and interesting stuff.” I couldn’t agree more.

Thanks to the volunteers who planned and facilitated the course, and to my fellow cohort graduates. For a full list of contributors and participants, check out the Leadership Cohort page on the website, mazamas.org/get-involved/leadership-cohort.

Mazama Youth Programs Info Night and Fundraiser— July 30 Wednesday, July 30 we’ll be celebrating new initiatives and partnerships to engage Portland area youth in outdoor education and programs. The Mazamas is raising money to support efforts to get kids, who wouldn’t otherwise get to explore and enjoy the mountains, onto the trails and into educational programs to learn about the sport we love.

Join us to enjoy food and beverages, meet our partners and learn about these programs and how you can support them.

July/2014—13

Advanced Snow

by Wim Aarts The Advanced Snow and Beginning Ice class has a long tradition within the Mazamas with one of the most prominent guest teachers in the early 90’s, Yvon Chounaird.

In the 90s, the class was a high angle snow class, teaching ice techniques using the crevasses on the Elliot Glacier on Mt. Hood. If you have been going to this area since the mid-90s you know that a lot if ice has disappeared from that glacier and the terrain to choose from was certainly more expansive.

In 1998 the class organizers, amongst others Keith Campbell, a member of ASI committee to date, wanted to expand the scope of the class, and bring in more modern techniques from outside the Mazamas.

This took them to the first professional ice climbing class for ASI intructors in Lee Vining, CA. The class then started traveling to Ouray, Colo. each year to greatly expand practice in ice climbing in a top rope environment.

In later years the class participants and instructors ventured outside of the Ouray ice park to even further their expertise.

Class curriculum kept building and currently includes the following topics:

14 —Mazama Bulletin

&

Beginning Ice

Climbing on Alpine Snow and Ice • Anchors and anchor placement • Steep snow climbing and rope-work • Vertical ice climbing technique • Introduction to alpine ice leading and multi-pitch climbing Small-team Rescue Techniques • High Angle rescue skills • Mechanical advantage systems • Small team improvised rescue • High angle rescue Building Alpine Experience • Planning and executing climbs • Route selection • Team selection • Gear and clothing usage • Time management • Weather, snow and avalanche assessment

The class is taught in a seminar style which means that the participants are very much in charge of the quality level of the class. In small teams, often in technical two person rope teams, techniques are practiced in practical class room sessions and often in exposed terrain or on climbing routes as conditions warrant.

The requirement for appropriate terrain also can require a lot of flexibility. From the Gnarl Ridge fire in the fall of 2008 that

closed Cloud Cap access, to fires on Mt. Adams that diverted us to the Coleman glacier on Mt. Baker in 2011, a class with these kind of terrain requirements is of course strongly dependent on conditions of terrain and weather. Alternatives in planning are carried out in close communication and often with the help of the students, who are expected to be capable of planning and executing many of the field sessions independently.

Initially the class was taught on Mt. Hood and the tradition of the annual Ouray trip, now a classic for more than 15 years, was started. Due to the Gnarl Ridge fire, the class of 1998 was forced to look for an alternative. We started looking into the Adams Glacier on Mt. Adams and decided to give it a try. Whoever has been up there knows that it’s a bit of a hike to get to the famously named Lake 7,500 for its elevation. At the time of the ASI class this hike is breath taking, the wildflower meadows on the way to the junction with the PCT are absolutely stunning in September. Besides the hiking pleasure, you end up camping below the first snow fields coming off the Adams glacier. Play time is just 30min from camp and the three day weekend planned for this session requires little more travel time after the hike to high camp. Mt. Adams had become another

tradition until the forest fires in 2011 prevented any access. The Coleman Glacier on Mt. Baker was our next destination of choice and in 2011 the first ASI weekend to this location turned out to be a huge success.

Access from the car is faster, from camp it turned out to be in the same timeframe as Mt. Adams. The drive makes this a bit more challenging and makes the requirement of stable weather conditions a bit more of a factor. The students and instructors have shown a lot of flexibility and who knows where this class will take place next.

What kind of changes have we seen over the years in organization, techniques, class curriculum and execution of the ASI class?

Classes were carried out by climb committee, the class coordinator and his assistant had to be Mazama climb leaders in good standing and became members of climb committee. With the change that has been taking place moving the classes from climb committee to subcommittees of education committee, the class coordinators have been freed up from the other duties that climb committee fulfills. Class coordinators can focus and devote much more time and attention to the organization and the execution of their class. In coordination with Climb Committee and Education Committee, an agreement was forged how to recognize instructor talent outside of the group of climb leaders. Not all climb leaders have the skills or desire to lead an advanced class. Secondly our climb leaders are called upon to volunteer for many climbing related topics within the Mazamas. The class instructor/coordinator was put in place and sub-committees such as ASI now have the possibility to let qualified instructors lead classes without being Mazama climb leaders.

This has opened the “pool” of qualified lead instructors, which is unfortunately never big enough, for classes beyond previous limitations.

Refreshing the 1998 idea of getting resources outside of the Mazamas to refresh rescue skills in 2010, Rigging For Rescue from Ouray, Colo. was invited to put a program together for ASI instructors. The program consisted of high angle rescue techniques with only the gear that climbers would take on climbs in the Northwest. The ideas behind this was true self rescue without gear that only rescue organizations would carry for this purpose. ASI with this training got more than we bargained for: a great basic set of high angle rescue techniques was introduced to the 8 participants, literature was shared by Rigging For Rescue and last but certainly not least, an instruction method was introduced that showed us how to teach in systems. Traditional mountaineering teaching of rescue systems is done in root memorization of specific methods and systems. Learning and teaching the building blocks of high angle rescue simplified the understanding and teaching of these topics greatly. Members of ASI committee have been building on this initial three day training session by taking a one day upgrade or continuation training during the Ouray ice climbing week each year in January.

Contacts with Rigging For Rescue and San Juan Mountain guides have proven to be invaluable to keep the curriculum up to date and have a source for many different topics of information on Mountaineering related topics that stays up to date in the fast changing world of modern mountaineering.

This know-how and these techniques have been introduced in high angle rescue and

From left to right: Steep snow climbing on the White River Glacier, Mt. Hood. Lisa Brady practicing rescue techniques on the White River Glacier. Rescue exercises on Mt. Adams.

Katie Mills on the Coleman Glacier, Mt. Baker. Photos: Wim Aarts.

crevasse rescue for ICS, Advanced Rock and the ASI class in great part thanks to Steve Heikkila and Derek Castonguay. This is a great example how the whole Mazama organization has benefitted from this ongoing education investment.

With the installation and utilization of the climbing wall in the MMC, another huge step up in practical application of rescue and anchor techniques became possible. Not long after someone found the product Ice Holdz— real ice tool climbing and practicing in artificial holds, screwed to the climbing wall.

This has turned out to be a big change in the ability of students and instructors to practice advanced techniques in a safe environment.

However why stop there? That’s not like ASI committee, where something bigger, more elaborate will almost always spring up: The idea for the ice wall was born! Ice holds and hard foam mounted on a climbing wall with top rope anchors would once more greatly expand the possibilities within Mazamas to teach crampon and ice axe and ice tool techniques. These ideas are not exactly cheap so the idea of a fundraiser was born. When the fundraising event for the ice wall happened, the 10 ASI committee members had already donated a considerable amount of funds in the order of 25 percent of the total sum needed. This shows the spirit within this group that over the last years has introduced new curriculum, lifted the level of teaching ice and snow, modernized teaching and contents of high angle rescue and is now working on another step up with this ice wall.

With the basis put in place and ongoing efforts to keep current knowledge current the Advanced Snow and Beginning Ice class is positioned to play an important role within the Mazama schools.

July/2014—15

WHY ASI? An Interview with Elisabeth Bowers What made you decide to apply for ASI?

What was a challenge of ASI that you didn’t anticipate?

I’ve done a couple of technical snow and steep angle mountain climbs that really pushed me to the edge in terms of comfort level. After taking ICS in 2010/2011, I assisted several ASI grads during ICS snow sessions up at Mt. Hood who demonstrated a higher level of technical snow skills than I had. I signed up for ASI to refine my technical snow skills, learn a bit about ice, and geek out about systems.

Weather. This past year was pretty rough in terms of weather. We had a lot of rain during our class this past year and several field sessions were cut short. Basically, the rain causes the glacial rock that is perched above the glaciers to roll. For our safety, we retreated back to Portland on several occasions.

What was the best part of ASI?

My most memorable climbing experience to date since the class was going to Hyalite Canyon with Candi Cook, a friend I made through ASI. She knew how to navigate Hyalite Canyon and would bring me out to to these stunning frozen waterfalls that I really couldn’t help but climb. It was magical.

A huge benefit of ASI is learning from some folks who are very passionate about technical snow and ice. There definitely was a lot of geeking out about systems, anchors, and ice screws, which can be hard information to make entertaining, but fun was definitely had by all.

In addition to the snow/ice learning portion of the class, ASI might also be called “Advanced Car Camping,” as the opportunity for campfires, beer, spicy sausage, gourmet foods, and fancy breakfasts seem near perfection.

Did you do anything during ASI that you never thought you would do? How about after completing the class?

Because of the weather during the 2013 ASI class, we ended up retreating to the Mazama Mountaineering Center several times and practicing ice climbing/dry tooling technique quite a bit.

I expected to touch on ice climbing during the class but not to get as much practice as I did.

Elisabeth practicing her newfound ice-climbing skills.

Photos: Unknown.

16 —Mazama Bulletin

Since the class, I’ve iceclimbed at Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman, Mont. twice and spent a week climbing in Ouray, Colo. I’ve also led ice routes in the Columbia River Gorge, Hyalite, and Ouray.

What has been your most memorable climbing experience to date?

Do you have a big climbing goal for this climbing season?

I remember a former ASI grad saying something to the effect that learning to climb ice, in addition to snow and rock, introduces the idea that there is no climbing season per say. Instead, there are things to climb year-round. Therefore, my goal for this year is to continue climbing new things and to continue to push my edge of comfort. At this point, this entails “going on climbs” less and “leading climbs” more. I’m going to see how the weather shapes up and pick some objectives that can be fully planned and executed by a small band of climbing partners.

What is your dream climb?

My dream climb would be the Ribbon in Ouray, Colorado (Water Ice 4, four pitches).

Words of wisdom for anyone considering ASI for 2014/15 Learn to dance. Ward off the rain gods. But seriously, if you are considering taking ASI, JUST DO IT. In climbing, the more you practice the skills, the better you know the skills and will implement the skills, and the safer your climbs will be. This is where uncertainty and discomfort in the backcountry can evolve into a capable confidence.

Ski Mountaineering Program: An Intro

by Karl Furlong, Program Chair The Mazama Ski Mountaineering Program is designed to teach you the skills, attitude and awareness necessary to safely enjoy the many backcountry ski opportunities that exist in the Cascades and elsewhere. Ski mountaineering in the Northwest can span the spectrum from multi-day traverses to skiing off the summits of local volcanoes to just basking in the sunshine on the south side of Mt. Hood in July. Each tour has its special joys and dangers.

Our goal is to help you make a safe and confident transition from skiing groomed slopes at resorts to touring the off-piste environment among mountains. The focus of this course is on the skills necessary to ascend/descend non-technical intermediate level ski mountaineering climbs. While climbing and backcountry skills are not necessary, students should come equipped with intermediate to advanced skiing skills.

Over the past five years there have been quite a few changes within the Ski Mountaineering group. Nothing earth shattering, but subtle and sustained change.

Each year, we try to tune the program, making changes based on suggestions from students, volunteers, and industry insiders that work alongside the committee to assist.

We have increased the amount of time we spend on navigation, and spend more time discussing different gear options. We are now offering multiple overnight tour options, and as of last year, we have engaged mentors who avail themselves to students throughout the year. Over the next year, we plan to increase the number of skill-builders offered with the goal of providing more advanced ski mountaineering courses for graduates of this class.

When I first signed up for the ski mountaineering program five

years ago, it was to find people to ski with on the weekends. Since then I have tagged along on trips all over the west coast, and most recently to the alps ... so, If you love the backcountry and are looking for some excitement this winter, check out the Mazama Ski Mountaineering Program and see what we have to offer.

See the Mazama Blog for a student account of the Ski Mountaineering Program: mazamas.blogspot.com

Above: Karl Furlong topping out on Aneroid Mountain, Wallowas. Photo: Nick Johansen. Enjoying a day in the Wallowas (from left to right): Dan MIles, Nick joahnsen, Paul Mayhew, Wade Shelton, Karl Furlong. Photo: Kevin Hardy.

Mazama Nordic Ski School: “Skill in Means”

by Carol Lane The Mazamas Nordic School has evolved in terms of teaching methods although its essential format remains as it has always been, a balance of what students are looking for, and what volunteer instructors are able to provide. The format consists of three programs offered in four weekends after Christmas. There are numerous classes in traditional cross-country skiing (diagonal stride), a Nordic downhill class (lift-assisted Telemark) and a Backcountry class which teaches basic off trail navigation and safe travel below timberline. With robust assistance of the staff of the MMC, the Nordic Committee has not only been able to offer Nordic Ski classes for over 20 years, we have the support we need to continue to make improvements in our administration and efficiency based on the feedback we receive from our evaluation process.

The Essential Traditional classes are divided into four levels: Beginning, Novice, Intermediate and Advanced. These classes follow a format which has proven popular over many years, balancing formal instruction in the morning with a tour in the afternoon where students can practice what they learned in the morning. The tours are carefully matched to student skills and energy levels.

Where climbing programs have been guided by the different editions of Freedom of the Hills, the Nordic program has been guided by Professional Ski Instructors of America (PSIA) publications. The publication we used for many years was the Nordic Teaching System Handbook which presented a fixed progression of skills for beginning, intermediate and advanced traditional and Nordic downhill classes. This handbook was replaced in 2005 by the PSIA Nordic Technical Manual which re-conceptualized teaching methods. Gone were fixed progressions and hierarchical teaching methods in favor of a method which took into consideration student wishes. They adopted a more flexible approach called “stepping stones,” skipping through progressions as they met student needs.

In addition, they categorized ski movements into eight basic skills, giving students and teachers a common language for analyzing and discussing ski movement.

We have been fortunate in having a certified PSIA instructor lead a two-day clinic each year reviewing teaching methods and individual skills. (Shelly Hakanson and her 18 —Mazama Bulletin

A gorgeous day at Teacup. Photo: Cate Schneider.

staff at Wy’East Nordic, www.wyeastnordic. com.)

Lead instructors monitor assistant instructors who in turn may become lead instructors and promising students are encouraged to become assistants and so the process continues. (E.F. Conyngham) This process is exemplified by the following comments from one of our new Assistants, Cate Schneider: I fell in love with XC on day-one of my first Mazama Nordic class three years ago and have been a junkie (and class-participant) ever since. A friend talked me into co-assisting this year as a way of staying involved with the program. I was somewhat skeptical about my ability to teach but was quickly put at ease during the fabulous Saturday instructor clinic.

(Cate is referring to our weekend of professional ski instruction from the Wy’East Nordic PSIA clinic Ed describes above) For the class itself, I was fortunate enough to be paired with a veteran teacher who had 20 years in the program. Drafting off his experience, I got to share my love of the sport with the class without the pressure of full teaching responsibility. As a class, we talked technique, gear, and fundamentals, but more importantly

we just enjoyed the camaraderie and the skiing!

While individual instructors use these new teaching tools as suits their classes, the entire process might be envisioned along the following lines: • Beginning and novice students learn basic movement • Intermediate students focus on the eight individual skills • Advanced students focus on integration of the skills into smooth flow matched to terrain.

Efficiency of movement is the goal Instructors have the flexibility to adjust instruction to fit the class. For example, students in beginning or Novice classes, who are progressing well, may work on the eight defined individual skills, intermediate students with a good grasp of the eight individual skills, may work on integration of these skills and advanced students may go back to work on some individual skill as appropriate—it’s the instructors call.

To adopt a term from The Lotus Sutra, we teach “skill in means.” Perfection in cross-country skiing, including Nordic downhill, will always be elusive. Although Nirvana may be elusive, we guarantee a lifetime of fitness and pleasure from the effort. (E.F. Conyngham)

Student Reflections: Claudia Schroeder I am sitting down on an unseasonably warm June evening to write about my Mazama ski school experience this winter. I had signed up with a couple of friends—all of us pretty good skiers, but feeling that it could help to get some “expert” advice to make progress.

I could already tell during the orientation event, that years of experience had gone into shaping and smoothly organizing the ski school­—all run by volunteers. After an initial session in the auditorium at the Mazama Mountaineering Center getting some basic information, we all split up into our assigned groups, according to experience levels, that people assigned to themselves. The groups are all kept pretty small, which is great, and assures a good teacher/teacher assistant to student ratio. Our group was an intermediate group and we had between two to six students. Some people were not able to make it each time, some were out sick—or stayed away due to adverse weather conditions.

The class happened in four consecutive weeks, which I appreciated since you can really build on what you did the week

before. I was impressed with the teacher’s and assistant’s enthusiasm for sharing their experience and knowledge—the teacher even bringing in a few of her books, to illustrate a technique she had been talking about.

In our group we mainly worked on strengthening our kick and glide, and we had fun working on our “hula” hips. Although we did some individual exercises, for the most part they were incorporated into actually skiing somewhere, which I appreciated and prefer over having to stand somewhere and watch everybody go through a routine.

I also appreciated the teacher and assistant asking for feedback from the group and adjusting their plans and activities according to our feedback.

It was a challenging snow year and they did a good job deciding on places to go that would offer the best possible snow conditions.

It is a pretty amazing experience, offered at a reasonable price by people that feel strongly about sharing their enjoyment of and passion for skiing with others.

Student Reflections: Anonymous I was very impressed with the quality of teaching, it was so easy to layer skill on top of skill, and the community spirit that supported every person and the point at which they started. It was clear that the goal of the instructors was to make Nordic skiing available as a life-long activity for every student.

Spend five days trekking a remote Bedouin trail to the ancient city of Petra. Additional nights in the desert of Wadi Rum and Amman.

Ranked by National Geographic as one of the 15 best hikes in the world, this trip is supported. You do not have to carry any gear.

Contact Donovan Pacholl for the full itinerary.

donovan@embarkadventures.com/503-922-1050.

July/2014—19

Advanced Rock 2014 Review

by Ray Belt, AR Coordinator

I

t is hard to believe another year has gone by and that another group of Advanced Rock students have graduated, but that’s exactly what has happened. It is awesome seeing the new graduates getting out and hearing their stories about the adventures they are having.

How they are honing their new-found skills and tackling climbs and routes of all grades, types and sizes. For most assistants, instructors and leaders, this is why we do what we do—passing on what we love and seeing where the adventures lead.

Each year, the Advanced Rock course gets stronger and stronger, with a more focused agenda and curriculum, on-task lectures, more hands-on teaching, better-organized outings, and of course, a broader, more experienced pool of assistants to draw on, together dedicating a ton of time to make this happen. Make no mistake: what the Mazamas offer in the Advanced Rock course is unique and unparalleled by any other program out there.

This year, we had the very difficult task of selecting twenty-four students out of an applicant pool of forty-three. As you can imagine, the process was anything but easy.

In the end, it boiled down to experience, demonstrated competence, ability to meet minimum climbing requirements and an established record of giving back and volunteering (just a hint for those looking to join a future Advanced Rock class).

I am happy to report that this year, we graduated all twenty-four students (whom we now refer to as assistants). Each and every one of them worked hard to earn the honor. The class is both time-consuming and intense, and, without a certain amount of commitment, it would not be easy to complete. For those who are not directly familiar with the program, let me explain by giving you some information on this year’s course.

20 —Mazama Bulletin

The class runs from the beginning of March through the end of May (a packed three months), includes a kick-off meeting, twelve 2½- to 3-hour lectures, twelve fieldsession days, a handful of additional gettogethers and two private climbing trips. In

referred to as a “committee” by those who carry briefcases). This year’s group included Nate Mullen, Spencer Leek, Hye Kwon, Rebecca Schob, Kat Buckspan, Chris Simmons and Stephanie Spence. With their help and never-failing support, we were able

Ben Cline and Amy Goodwin at Smith Rock. Photo: Ben Cline.

between all this, students are expected to practice what they learn, research what they don’t know, contribute to online discussions and assist with organizing certain logistics (e.g. the infamous potlucks and carpooling).

That the Advanced Rock course keeps getting stronger and continues to evolve is a testament to all the hours and energy given by the volunteers who pull this together.

Acknowledging those who came before, I also want to say that this year would not have been as progressive and successful without the energy, contributions, time and commitment from the AR Team (sometimes

to introduce a number of changes, additions and updates to the course which made this class absolutely awesome.

Speaking of the AR Team: one important shift to the program has been in the leadership structure and how the AR Team is organized. Historically, Advanced Rock was run pretty much by two people, a lead coordinator and an assistant coordinator.

Back in the day, these two folks made everything work and I just can’t imagine how they did it. About five years ago, the concept of putting together a team to run the program started to get traction,

Megan Coker and Spencer Leek practicing placement at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Ray Belt.

but it wasn’t until three years ago that it actually started to take form. Well, for better or worse, this year we have formalized the structure as an actual “committee” (what we will continue to call a team).

By implementing this shift, we have created a more formal structure that asks all team members to commit to a three-year term. The intent is to keep the team at nine members: three “fresh bloods,” three people who have been involved in the program a bit, and three of the “old guard” who have been around and directly involved in the program for a number of years. We are hoping this creates the best formula to keep the energy and ideas fresh, but keep the knowledge, experience and direction of the program intact. Given how new this is, all we can say is, time will tell.

This year we also implemented other changes to the program which we believe will make it stronger going forward. The first is the reintroduction of an aid climbing module. In the past, this was always valued by the students not only for the opportunity to learn skills necessary for some basic aid climbing, but for the opportunity to weight their gear and placements and see firsthand what happens. You would be amazed at the “ah-ha” moments this creates, and the confidence it builds as students go vertical. Another change this year was the extension of the third Smith Rock weekend trip from two to three days. Also, the introduction of a full day of falling practice through the Rock Warriors Way program, presented and taught by Jeff Lodas. If we are going to climb high, we had better know how to fall properly. Again, we saw a lot of lightbulb moments and some serious mental barriers challenged—and, I will add—almost all of the students came away smiling and utterly exhausted from the day.

Another honorable mention to the program was the introduction of a stewardship module, which includes an optional trip to Tuolumne Meadows for up to nine days of climbing and assisting the Yosemite National Park Service on long-needed restoration and maintenance projects. For those who have tried to secure campsites in Yosemite lately, you know how difficult a task this is. With the joint effort between the Mazamas and the Yosemite Climber Program, we have secured a group site for 30 for Aug. 30–Sept. 7. In a nutshell, climbers contribute a six-hour day (working in some of the most amazing places, helping preserve what we love and doing what we can to help the cause), which then secures two nights in the group campsite. This is an incredible

opportunity for the Mazamas to show what we can do and also a wellearned way to get to Yosemite for some stellar climbing.

The best part of this is that about a dozen spots are still available and Advanced Rock has opened up this opportunity to all Mazama members.

If interested, contact Adam Baylor in the MMC for more information.

This all brings me around to the reason why we do the Advanced Rock class in the first place: the students.

Without them, this clearly would be a boring job and wouldn’t hold much reward. Thankfully that isn’t the case. I think I can speak for the entire AR Team when I say that the people we meet each year while teaching this class are what keep us coming back. The energy, motivation, good will, support, laughs, camaraderie, perspectives, challenges and accomplishments that each student brought to the table were not only inspiring but made the whole experience fun and memorable. To you all, I wish you the best and the most amazing adventures – keep it solid, keep it redundant and never

stop asking why!

And with those parting thoughts, I would like to introduce the newest graduates of the 2014 Advanced Rock class: Sharon Birchfield, Benjamin Cline, Megan Coker, Amy Driscoll, Alex Fox, Victor Galotti, David Goldstien, Amy Goodwin, Laura Guderyahn, Philip Hunter, Ally Imbody, Forrest Koran, Jason Lee, Suzanne Lee, Micah Mayes, Andrea McKee, Dian Ott, Tim Scott, Jonathan Skeen, Ted Slupesky, Mason Smith, Brad Unruh, Brian Wetzel, Roger Wong.

July/2014—21

My AR Experience

by Micah Mayes

T

here may be nothing I love more than climbing multi-pitch alpine rock, so naturally, taking Advanced Rock has been a long term goal of mine.

Last fall, I assisted on the ICS multipitch weekend and that night over the fire, decided I was ready to lead trad.

The next day, with the help of an AR grad, I led my first two trad climbs and afterwards knew that this was the year I should apply for AR. When I was accepted, I was thrilled and couldn’t wait for the class to begin.

On orientation night at a local watering hole, students and assistants introduced themselves, sharing where we were from, our favorite climbing spots, and our spirit animal. A third of us were well acquainted with one another, having spent nine months together in Steve Heikkila’s ICS class. I knew the majority of the students were really strong climbers so I was a bit intimidated since I’m not a high-grade climber. But everyone has their own aspirations and mine was to lead moderately graded alpine rock.

AR kicked off on a Saturday with a lecture reviewing all gear types, their ratings, and the ideal placements for each. After the initial session at the MMC, we headed to Broughton Bluff, where we practiced placing each type of gear in separate stations. I left with a new appreciation for hexes, and perplexed about how rotating a cam 180 degrees transformed a marginal piece into a bomber cam placement. Each assistant had their opinion about where to use different pro, their go-to piece, and why.

22 —Mazama Bulletin

Top: Micah leading the last pitch of The Ogre, Mt Hubris.

Her first alpine trad lead. Photo: Jeff Hawkins. Right: AR students, Ally Imbody, Andrea McKee, and Dian Ott leading on Spiderman Buttress. Photo: Micah Mayes

The belay lecture reviewed the fundamentals of belaying and how to belay using a redirect and off an anchor. I picked up several tips on how to prevent stuck ropes, learned how to extend the top belay position, and how to extend an EDK knot over a ledge for a double rappel.

The next lecture tackled anchors. On the field session there was a focused station for each anchor configuration, ranging from the sliding X to using the climbing rope. It was helpful to practice each of these to determine for ourselves which we preferred and why.

Again, each assistant had their reasons for why they preferred one over the other, and by the end of this field session I concluded that the two anchors I usually use are indeed the ones I prefer. After the first series of lectures and field sessions, I was glad to have already been well-versed in anchor building, gear placement, and basic rock rescue, thanks to ICS, so I could hone in on those skills and work on efficiency.

The lead climbing lecture began with fall factors. A few different scenarios were given and we calculated the fall factor and the shock load it would have on the leader and belayer. The entire leading sequence was reviewed, which is as simple as climb, build an anchor, bring up your second and repeat.

All the details, strategies, and considerations for each of these steps were broken down and discussed at great length.

High angle rescue was divided into two lectures for good reason. The first was escape the belay, defeat the plaquette, pass a knot on rappel, and the introduction of mechanical advantage for raising a climber.

In the second session, we learned different methods to ascend a rope, how to configure high-angle lowering systems for one and two climbers, and a full rescue of a fallen leader

with counterbalanced pick-off rappels. At the end of the practice sessions, I knew I wasn’t alone in thinking I never wanted to have to do any of this in real life. However, I realized the importance of practicing these skills regularly, so if that time ever came, they would be fresh in my mind.

Halfway through the course, we headed to Horsethief Butte for a competency test to ensure we were dialed on the skills taught to this point. We also mock-led for the first time and I noticed quite a difference placing pro vertically as opposed to on the ground!

At Smith Rock I, the first of three trad leading weekends, I imagine it was like releasing the cubs out in the wild for the first time to fend for themselves, hoping they would survive to see the next day. I think several of us were wondering if we were ready to be on the sharp end or if we needed more time to do some mock leading.

I reminded myself I’d been placing gear from the ground for a year, talking about gear and leading for months, and that it was time to seize the day.

I started at a low grade, going through the sequence of placing gear at a comfortable stance, looking ahead to the next potential spot for gear, and climbing. With the help of an encouraging assistant, the second day I led my goal climb for AR. I surprised myself with how calm I remained and it seemed the first piece I would pull out just fit right in! At the end of each Smith session, each assistant evaluated us on gear placement, footwork, confidence level, and anchorbuilding and finally reviewed their thoughts with us. I found all of the constructive criticism extremely beneficial and can’t think of another program that gives individual assessments and feedback at this level.

Smith II was time to push the grade and

get more efficient placing gear.

There was a route that piqued my interest and once I heard it had an “alpine-like feel,” I knew I had to lead it. My friend and I, along with our assistants for the day, decided to team up since it was an exploratory climb for all of us, and we could back each other up if something happened.

I found this “runout” route with a bad reputation to be delightfully fun, and placed so many pieces, I ran out of slings! On the way to the next climb, we ran into our AR group, looking up at Morning Glory Wall. One of our classmates had fallen and was laying on a slab below his belayer. The rescue had been underway for a while and no one was sure of what happened or his condition. All I knew was I was done leading for the day, as the realities and consequences of a fall were right in front of my eyes.

There was nothing we could do to help him, but it didn’t feel right to leave, so we all stayed there, sending positive thoughts his way. Luckily, he ended up with only minor injuries and will be climbing again soon.

Our final Smith weekend included one day of a falling and movement clinic where we learned and practiced falling correctly, over and over again. I continue to practice the movement techniques learned that day that will continue to benefit my climbing. The second day we had an option to lead climbs

or practice aid climbing for those interested in getting hands on experience with the techniques that were demonstrated in our aid lecture. I had wanted to climb the route Spiderman for years and it was time, so I opted to lead. In the middle of crux, I reverted to a bad habit of prancing my foot around. I stopped for a moment and applied my training by focusing my attention, breathing, committing to where my foot last pranced, and climbed up. I went from an “oh crap” moment to “that wasn’t so bad” in seconds. After climbing the exposed crack on the last pitch, and pulling the roof move that is incredibly fun, I let out a loud, “Woohoo” and muttered one word to myself, “Spiderwoman.”

I’m grateful to all the instructors, assistants, and the entire AR committee for volunteering their time to teach, prepare, and guide us to be trad leaders. They were very accommodating and even added additional sessions that weren’t part of the course because we showed interest in half/twin ropes and aid climbing.

They also organized a debriefing to discuss the accident at Smith Rock.

One week after graduating from AR, I led my first alpine route on Jeff Hawkins’ Mazama climb of The Ogre, on Mt. Hubris.

I was the most calm and confident I’ve ever been leading anything and I attribute this to the skills I learned and guidance I received in Advanced Rock.

Now I can say, there may be nothing I love more than leading muti-pitch alpine rock.

July/2014—23

Introducing the Classic Mazamas Have you noticed the hikes and other events in recent Old Timers Bulletin columns? Did you see that, as of June, the Old Timers are now the Classic Mazamas? Did you notice that both the Classic Mazamas and Volunteer columns ask for Task Force volunteers?

Classic Mazamas

Why change?

At the December Holiday Party for the Old Timers we distributed surveys to find out what the members wanted from the group. The common threads were the desire for fellowship with other long-time Mazamas, outdoor activities—hikes, climbs, backpacks and outings—at a more leisurely pace, and social events.

In January we held a brainstorming session to reimagine the Old Timers, Mazamas of 25 years or more. We talked about who the Old Timers serve and what activities might be of interest. We also discussed a name change. Lis Cooper suggested that we have a six-month Task Force to restart the committee.

We lead a wide variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

Reinvigorating our group The Task Force met in March, April, May, and June, and will meet on July 18 and conclude on Aug. 14. So far we have changed our name from the Old Timers to the Classic Mazamas (with a tip of the hat to Ray Sheldon).

And we’ve come up with a mission statement: “Classic Mazamas offer year-round outdoor, social and cultural activities targeting members of 25 years or more or those 55 years or older or those who prefer to travel at a leisurely pace.” Our vision is recognizing and honoring lifetime members. Also we discussed expanding participation, events of interest, segmented activities, transportation and communication issues.

What Classic Mazamas has to offer Communication was recognized as one of the critical issues facing the Classic Mazamas group. The Task Force has made a concerted effort to list events in the Bulletin and on the Mazama website, mazamas.org/activities-events/ classicmazamas. In addition, in July we will be launching a listserv for Classic Mazamas. If you are a 25-year plus member you will automatically be on the listserv; if you are not interested, you can contact classics@mazamas.org to opt out. If you are 55 years or older and are interested in Classic Mazama activities, you can opt in to the listserv by contacting the same email address.

What Classic Mazamas needs from you If you are interested in contributing to the Task Force, come to the meetings on July 18 and Aug. 14. If you would like to be part of the leadership of the Classic Mazamas come to the organizational meeting in early September.

Some of the roles needed are communications volunteer, listserv manager, transportation buddy volunteer, chair(s), and activity planners for hikes and other events. If you want to lead a Classic Mazamas activity, please contact Kate Evans by the 12th of each month so that she can publicize the event in the Bulletin, on the website, and via the listserv.

If you have any questions or suggestions, please contact Kate Evans, kateevans97@gmail.com or 503-635-6540, or Kati Mayfield, 503-227-2345 or kati@mazamas.org 24 —Mazama Bulletin

25 years or more of Mazama membership

Saturday, July 5—Potluck Picnic at the Miller’s You are invited to Dick and Jane Miller’s house for their annual potluck picnic. If you’ve never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to come with you. See last month’s Bulletin or the website for full details.

Wednesday, July 9—Fort Vancouver Walk Go for a walk at Fort Vancouver. Two distance options: A 2 mile out and back and a 3.25 mile loop walk. Check the Trail Trips listing for full details. Meet at the Fort Visitor Center (1501 East Evergreen Blvd.) at 10 a.m. Call for directions if needed. Leader: Kent Meyer 360-574-0784. $2 for Mazama Members.

Friday, July 18—Task Force Meeting, 11 a.m., MMC Join us if you are interested in developing ideas and activities for the Classic Mazamas. We will continue discussing needed volunteer roles. Please bring a lunch. Contact Kate Evans at 503-635-6540 or kateevans97@gmail.com with questions.

Saturday, July 19—Lookout Mountain, Palisade Point and Oval Lake Hike B-level hike at a 1.5-mile, leisurely pace for 6.7 miles with 1,600 ft. of elevation gain. Hike 1.2 miles to the summit of Lookout Mountain, one of the most wonderful views in the Mt. Hood area on a clear day. After a snack and some time identifying the many Cascade peaks that we should see, we will take the Divide Trail southeast 2 miles to Palisade Point, a crag on a 300 ft. cliff. Returning, we will probably drop down to small, shallow Oval Lake which lies at the base of the cliff. Meet at Gateway; depart at 8 a.m. Drive: 150 miles round trip. Group size is limited to 12; arrive early to secure a spot. Leader: Diana Forester: 503-422-8896. $2 for Mazamas.

Tuesday, July 29—Triple Falls in the Gorge Hike The Triple Falls loop is 4.3 miles with 740 ft. of elevation gain and is classified as moderate in difficulty. The trail passes by Middle and Upper Oneonta Falls as well as Ponytail and Horsetail Falls. Pack a lunch as we plan to eat at a superb spot with a view of Triple Falls. Hiking poles are recommended due to a short, steep section of the trail damaged by a washout. Meet at the southeast corner of the Gateway Transit parking structure at 9:15 am. RSVP to commerce@thehowards3.net. Leader: Hal Howard, 503-293-1528.

Wednesday, August 6—Springwater Corridor Hike We will stroll along the Springwater Corridor (a flat trail) for two hours, observing birds, other wildlife, river views, and artwork. Bring a lunch; we’ll sit at the tables by the river in Sellwood Park after the walk. Meet at Sellwood Riverfront Park at 10 a.m. Leader: Heather Rosenwinkel 503244-9016.

20s & 30s Mazamas The Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) is excited to announce that we’ve changed our name to the 20s & 30s Mazamas. The group formed in the late 1990s to meet the needs of 20- and 30-somethings in the Mazamas and promote participation, membership and leadership of a sometimes underrepresented age group. We also offer events different from any other Mazamas group, which recently have included a ramble to music history spots in Portland, a beginners’ workshop for women new to bouldering, carcamping trips to John Day and the Wallowas, and monthly Pub Nights. The 20s & 30s Mazamas also organize and host Climb Night, a monthly indoor rockclimbing gathering from October to May for the entire Mazama community.

When the committee first formed, we called ourselves the “Under 40s.” We’d like to recapture the clarity of our original name, as many people have naturally assumed that the Adventurous Young Mazamas is a youth or teen group. The growth of the Mazama Families group and the future expansion of teen programs with the Mazamas have made a name change necessary.

We hope that the Mazamas can be more accessible to new participants and prospective members by making it easy to find a group of peers, providing activities targeted to a particular audience, and offering a lifetime of fun through a progression through Mazama Families, Teen/Explorer, 20s & 30s Mazamas, and Classic Mazamas.

While our name has changed for the sake of clarity, our philosophy remains the same: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers activities targeted to those in their 20s and 30s and anyone young at heart. Please join us at one of our upcoming events, or come hike the trails with us. Activities are posted at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s/; or find us on Facebook or Meetup.

The 20s and 30s Mazamas lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s and, of course, anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

Saturday, July 12—Hike: Champoeg State Park Once a busy settlement, Champoeg State Park is now home to paved bike trails, camping sites and monuments constructed to honor the history of the park and those who once lived there. We’ll walk along the Willamette River from the entrance of the park to the Butteville county store, where on the day of the hike the store will be celebrating its 151st anniversary (with cake and ice cream for visitors!) The store also sells coffee, fresh berries and other treats, making this a perfect spot for a nice lunch before we turn back. As an added bonus, on the way home we’ll be stopping by the Family Fun Center in Wilsonville for go-karts, mini-golf, games and more! 8 miles round-trip, no elevation gain. Drive: 70 miles round-trip. Trip fee: $2/$3 members/non-members. Bring a few extra dollars for parking. Email the leader to sign-up! Krista Collins: kcollins66102@gmail.com.

Meet at the southeast corner of Gateway Transit Center. Depart at 9 a.m.

Saturday, July 19—Potluck Bike & Hike: Kelley Point Park and Smith & Bybee Lakes

contact aym@mazamas.org for details, or attend our meetings, held at the MMC the last Thursday of each month at 6:30 pm.

Social Media Master(s)

Help 20s & 30s reach out to future Mazamas by writing a bimonthly email newsletter, tabling at Mazamas Discovery Night, and keeping photo albums current. Improve exposure and volunteerism.

Pub Maestros

Be a host at monthly pub nights held through the metro area. Welcome newcomers and help introduce the range of classes and activities offered by the Mazamas.

Climb Night Hosts

Indoor rock climbing is held once a month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and nonmembers, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.

Winter Weekend Coordinator

Plan the largest party the 20s & 30s host each year at the Mazama Lodge in early winter. Coordinate a schedule of snow-related activities, promote the weekend to new participants, and organize carpools.

Chief Organizer

We need a brave soul willing to attend the 20s & 30s Committee once-a-month meetings, keep minutes, and serve as a liaison with other committees such as Executive Council, Trail Trips, Conservation, and Risk Management.

Activity Leaders

Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running? Becoming an activity leader takes just few steps: become a Mazama member, lead a provisional activity and get first aid certified.

Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.

Join us for a close in Bike n’ Hike with a summer potluck at Kelley Point Park and hike through Smith and Bybee Lakes Wetlands.

We’ll meet at the Delta Park Max station for a bike ride out to sandy beaches of Kelly Point Park for the potluck. On our way back towards the Max station, we’ll stop and explore the scenic Smith and Bybee Lakes Natural Area. This fully paved route is almost entirely on a multi-use path. Hike: 2.1 miles. Cycle: 15 miles. No elevation gain. No Mazama fee. Meet at Delta Park Max stop station (N Expo Road, just north of Victory Blvd) at 11:30 a.m. Please bring: helmet, bike lock, picnic games/ frisbee, and food to share for the potluck! Email Co-Leaders: Krista (kcollins66102@gmail.com) or Karl (klangen@gmail.com) with any questions.

Volunteer with 20s & 30s:

Are you looking for a way to get more involved with the Mazamas? Maybe you just finished BCEP and want to volunteer some of your time to give back to the organization that has launched your climbing career! Check out the following opportunities, and

Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

July/2014—25

Lodge News

Now open 7 days a week, until Sept. 2.

Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Amanda Richards, 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Throughout the summer we offer breakfast, lunch and dinner every day of the week (see dinner menu below). If you are in the area and want to stop by for a meal you are welcome to do so, no need to call ahead for groups of four or less.

We only have five spaces still available for our Lost Lake Chuck wagon July 26–27.

This trip includes all meals, transportation, and transportation of your camping gear.

Reservations are available online at mazamas.org/lodge.

Did you know you can see Mt. Hood from the basement of Mazama Lodge? Thanks to former Lodge Committee Member Peggy Mills we have a one-ofa-kind plywood mural of Mt. Hood, completed in 1969. Prior to 1969 Peggy was noticing how kids would sometimes play in the basement —pingpong, foosball, and pool— Mark your Calendars! and never get a chance to Mazama Lodge Gala & Annual see Mt. Hood. With the help of other committee Fundraiser members the plans were Join us on Sept. 21 for food, fun, camaraderie and drawn for a floor to ceiling mural a small fundraiser to support annual maintenance and improvements at Mazama Lodge. Learn more of Mt. Hood made up of scraps of “Party Plywood Paneling.” A recent about the upcoming parking lot project and future member pointed out that many of capital improvements to Mazama Lodge! these plywood scraps used to make the mural are no longer available. A big

thank you to Peggy and other former Lodge Committee members who brought Mt. Hood to the basement of Mazama Lodge.

A special thanks to the Mazama Leader Cohort Weekend that did some wonderful landscaping on the lodge grounds.

Summer Dinner Menu Monday Veggie Platter Pizza Salad Bar Roasted Veggies S’mores

Thursday Pita Bread & Hummus Greek Chicken Baba Ghanouj Tzatziki Sauce Spinach & Feta Salad Baklava

Tuesday Cheese Fondue Grilled Chicken w/ Lemon Mixed Green Salad Sauteed Carrots Braised Cabbage Mashed Potatoes Cake du Jour

Friday Fruit Platter Burgers & Vegi Burgers Roasted Red Potatoes Coleslaw Ice Cream

Wednesday Antipasto Ziti Pasta Tomato & Alfredo Sauce Grilled Veggies Caesar Salad Garlic Bread Ice Cream

26 —Mazama Bulletin

Saturday Salad Rolls Thai Chicken Curry Vegan Tofu Curry Brown Rice Spinach Salad Chocolate-dipped Fortune Cookies Sunday Chips & Salsa Grilled Flank Steak Spanish Beans & Rice Cheese Quesadilla Churro

Are your kids constantly climbing everything and anything? Help them transition that natural climbing instinct into a fun and safe sport.

The Mazamas is hosting a 5-session Learn to Belay camp for 9-17 year-olds. We’ll teach kids how to properly use climbing equipment, how to safely belay, and the basics of climbing technique.

youth

camp Dates: Tue. & Thur., July 29-Aug. 7 and Sat., Aug. 9 Time: 6:30-8:30 p.m. (Sat., 9 a.m.- noon) Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland; Saturday: The Source Rock Gym in Vancouver, WA. Cost: $50 No climbing experience needed and the Mazamas will provide all the necessary gear.

For more information and to register: mazamas.org/education-classes/youth-climb-camp/

Ages 9–17

Mazama Families

The Mazama Families Committee has exciting news on two fronts. First, this column will now periodically include contributions from junior “Friends of the Committee” in a section entitled Kid’s Corner.

We hope it will inspire other writers, as well as participants in committee activities.

Next, the Families Committee has received formal approval from the Climbing and Education Committees to run FM101, or Family Mountaineering 101. This class will meet one evening and one weekend a month for nine months starting in September.

It is for kids 8 and up (younger by permission) and adults too— although adults can only take the class if they have a child enrolled. We will break into smaller groups based upon a number of factors, including age, for all the practice sessions.

This is far more than a watered-down version of the popular Mazama Basic Climbing and Education Program (BCEP), and it represents an incredible opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities. Hands-on MMC sessions will cover a wide-range of subjects such as rock climbing, snow climbing, navigation, clothing and conditioning, first trauma & PTSD ma & PTSDaid, snow camping skills, and Anxiety & Depression how to backpack.

There will y & Depression Addictions be a number of field sessions ions as well, including Stress trips to

R

Horsethief Butte and Smith Rock State Park for climbing and rappelling instruction and practice, Mt. Hood for snow camping and snow travel skills, and Mt. Tabor for navigation skills. Locations for backpacking trips and conditioning hikes will be determined by weather.

There will be a formal skills assessment at the end of the course to ensure all graduates are ready for Mazama A- and B-level climbs. Further details, including information on cost, will be available on the web by July 1.

Upcoming activities of note include the 2nd Annual Rooster Rock BBQ and Climb, highlighted in previous Bulletins (contact Craig Martin for more information cmci. construct@gmail.com), as well as a conditioning hike of Larch Mountain, Sunday July 20th (register at tinyurl.com/ LarchM-7-20-14).

Check out the Kids Corner

by Luka Einspruch. These stories in Kids Corner are written by children who participated in a Mazama activity. We’d love to see yours. Send your columns to blankec@yahoo.com. We hope to see you and your mountaineersin-training at an upcoming activity, which you may find at www.mazamafamilies.org.

EMDR

Drew Prochniak MA, LPC, LMHC

Supporting the health, well being, and potential of Portland residents a PTSD anxiety de traum pre ssion MDR addictions stress E 503.308.9408

little steps lead to BIG STEPS

Photo: Erik Einspruch

Kids’ Corner:

by Luka Einspruch, age 9: This weekend I hiked Dog Mountain. It is 7.6 miles long. I went with a group of people and carved on our breaks. I made a really cool walking stick in the beginning and carved it a lot. My friend Sam came and carved too. He said the walking stick he carved was years old! I had only made mine at the trailhead. There were some great views of the Columbia River from the Washington side. Near the end I put on some moleskin because I thought I would get a blister. I finally finished the hike. I was exhausted! After the hike I ran around with some of the people from the hike. We went to a lodge. Later, Sam, another friend (Henry), and I went for ice cream. It was a great hike, and great ice cream.

www.dprochniak.com

July/2014—27

Book Review

The AMC Guide to Outdoor Leadership by Alex Kosseff

by Barry Maletzky As a scientist, I detest anecdotes. They are next to worthless in factual discussions; only accumulated data matter. Therefore, I was surprised that I found the anecdotes so helpful that Kosseff and many of his friends in the Appalachian Mountain Club and Outward Bound offered in this manual, which is now employed in the Mazama’s Leadership Training Courses. I really shouldn’t have been that taken aback. Leadership in outdoor adventures doesn’t lend itself well to human experimentation: It’s difficult to imagine a double-blind study of handling an accident scene in the mountains for example. Instead, the author sprinkles in examples of incidents he or other leaders have had to encounter in solving the myriad problems in leading outdoor activities. I especially appreciated his lack of hubris in describing and analyzing his own mistakes when leading groups in the outdoors.

Unfortunately, such manuals have to rely on generalities, often banal, to make their points. Thus we learn that “leaders must be decisive” and that “it’s vitally important that leaders be prepared before taking on responsibility for others.” Shouldn’t it be obvious that “an emergency action plan must be in written form before undertaking any particular activity” or that “the needs of the group outweigh the needs of the individual.”

Still, Kosseff takes these general points, then uses them to teach some valuable lessons. His lists of preparatory steps before an outing and of the traits good leaders must possess, while seemingly familiar, are again beginning points for class discussions; remember—this is a textbook, not a complete guide for how to handle every conceivable situation in the wilderness.

While this work is addressed to leaders of all outdoor activities, such as canoeing, kayaking, skiing, backpacking and mountaineering, its lessons are easily applied to, and occasionally seem particularly apropos to, mountain climbing, especially those climbs lasting more than one or two days. Its focus is not on how to climb, or kayak, for example, but on how to teach and lead such activities. It also serves as a potent reminder that the rewards of all such activities must always exceed the risks involved. Outdoor participation by teens has declined by 13 percent in the past two years; credit the internet perhaps but a special chapter on leading youth groups will hopefully help to address that worrisome statistic.

Selected chapters, some more useful than others, include Group Development; 28 —Mazama Bulletin

reading cloud patterns rather than simply Environmental Awareness; Decision-Making checking the increasingly accurate NOAA and (here, find a nice discussion on rational vs.

“Weather Channel” warnings readily available emotional responses to emergencies); Risk on-line.

Management (much of this mirroring our These are trifles however, as this text is own Mazama efforts in this vital area); Crisis Management; Expedition Behavior and Group eminently suited to accompany a course on leadership for outdoor activities. The author Behavior (a bit too much pop psychology finishes his communication chapter with an for me in these); Communication Skills; Trip intriguing yet unappreciated point: We all Planning; and nicely yet lastly, Having Fun. learn how to speak at an early age but rarely Organizational Trip Management, which do we learn how to listen. His emphasis on focuses on issues of liability and the needs reflective and active listening would do a of the participants rather than the leaders, is psychology textbook proud. especially germane to our organization, where For those choosing to lead, a more criticism has been leveled at a few leaders who comprehensive text on outdoor leadership, plan their climbs based on what they want just published by the Mountaineer’s Press to achieve rather than what the organization and Outward Bound, may be a more and its members may want and need. An important discussion follows about a leader or comprehensive work, especially for the single student. But for a class on leadership, assistant, often male, having to accompany an Kosseff’s book will provide a basic outline injured climber, sometimes female or a youth, to fuel plentiful and edifying discussions for without any “chaperone” being present.

Within our present litigious climate concerning potential outdoor administrators, managers allegations of abuse, care is warranted. The and helmsmen. author also covers emergency action and Note: This book is not yet in the Mazama public notification plans and emphasizes the library but should be entered there soon. wisdom of periodic written reviews.

Fortunately, our Mazama policies in this Most of us have learned to “expect the unexpected” in this game of life. Accidents happen and, while traumatic, most times the body regard fit in well with damage can be easily repaired. When it takes longer to recover, his recommendations. and you are unable to return to work for awhile, the one thing you Part of this chapter don’t have to worry about is money coming in. This is because you may however prove have properly “bridged the gap” by purchasing income protection problematic to insurance. Tomorrow may be too late. Talk to me today about Mazamas as the author protecting your income against unexpected injury or illness. insists on an 8-hour “bottle-to-throttle” rule preventing alcohol use before and after an outing, which would eliminate many of our climbers from ever returning home in a timely fashion following their adventures.

There are a few snafus. More careful editing would have eliminated multiple typo’s while the B&W photos lend little as they rarely relate to the text on the page, although they do break up the space to some extent. Also, in his warnings about Janette Pipkin, Mazama member since 1995 weather, I believe the 503-936-6626 • janettepipkin@gmail.com • incomeprotectionsolutions.com author relies to too great an extent on

Income Protection Solutions

Adventure Travel OUTINGS—LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2014/2015

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

Lassen National Park Outing Aug. 16–23 Full/Alternates only.

Full/Alternates Only. See information in the June Bulletin.

Hiking and Touring in Tuscany and Cinque Terre Aug. 31–Sept. 12 Full/Alternates Only. See information in the February Bulletin.

Exploring Utah’s National Parks Sept. 28–Oct. 12 Full/Alternates Only. See information in the May Bulletin.

Grand Canyon Trek Oct.10–17, 2014 Join us as we go rim-to-rim in the Grand Canyon. Our 64-mile trek will begin on the North Rim as we descend beside lovely Bright Angel Creek. Then go off the beaten path and travel to Clear Creek where we will spend a day off trail to either Cheyava Falls or a descent to the Colorado River. Then we will retrace our steps and continue our journey along Bright Angel Creek, visiting the Phantom Ranch before crossing the Colorado River and ascending to Indian Gardens. We will then wrap up our trip with a westward traverse on the Tonto Trail before ascending the Hermit Trail to the South Rim at Hermit’s Rest Trailhead. Temperatures may still top 80 in the canyon in October and will approach freezing at night near the rim.

What Is Your Outing Wish List?

Where would you like to see Mazamas Outings go? Please let the Outings Committee know where you dream of exploring, and we’ll see if we can work on providing that trip.

And maybe you’d even like to lead or assist! Send your ideas, suggestions and aspirations to us at mazamas.outings@gmail.com. Thanks!

The five to six participants should be in good physical condition and have completed at least one 50+ mile hike and be prepared to travel up to 15 miles a day. Cost includes all fees and transportation to and from Las Vegas as well as a night’s lodging in Las Vegas. The itinerary is tentative pending permits from the National Park Service which should be in hand by mid-to-late June. The cost of the outing will be approximately $670–$820 and excludes airfare.

Contact the leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@ hotmail.com) for more information.

Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, learn about and experience the flora and fauna of the many climatic zones of this part of the world as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. While on the summit, enjoy the 360-degree view of a little known continent and look down to the Olduvai Gorge where our tool-making ancestors evolved.

Our ascent to the summit is along the littleclimbed Lemosho and Western Breach route.

Less than one percent of summit attempts are made along this route since it includes 4th class climbing. As we trek through the lowlands we will learn about different cultural

and social norms of various indigenous ethnic groups. If we choose to spend a night in the crater, we will explore the remaining glaciers and the crater of Kilimanjaro.

We begin our African journey in Moshi, often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania, where we will begin to learn the culture and society of local inhabitants as well as our support people. Local diets and new foods can be explored, as well as clothing and dried goods when visiting the local market.

Good local hotels will allow us to rest and sleep to overcome our long air journey to Moshi.

Following our many days of trekking and climbing we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. Such an optional trip might include Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater.

In-country cost for this unique trip range from $3,800–$4,300 per person depending upon number of participants, while airfare from Portland is currently around $2,500.

Airfare can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations.

Leaders: Paul Steger, 503-998-6188, (PaulSteger@q.com) and Eric Hoem, 503-3413996, (erichoem@comcast.net). Deposit $500 due by Sept. 15, 2014.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

SMALL GROUP TOURS OF TURKEY. Competitive prices, fully escorted, meals included. http://turkey.cascolytravel.com HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

July/2014—29

Tales From The N E D D I B R O F Peak

by Michael Zasadzien A little under a year ago, I was on one of my first Mazama climbs. One that I’ll never forget, simply because it introduced me to a whole new level of exposure. The back-of-the-neck-hair-raised-for-the-next-four-hours exposure.

The kind that made you think seven times about the placement of each footstep, and whether you felt comfortable standing on that ridge with a 500 ft. drop on one side, and a 1,000 ft. drop on the other. This was Chiwawa Mountain, a fierce little guy that Bob Breivogel took us up, with a nice long ridge traverse. I remember coming home from that climb, shaken up a bit from adrenaline withdrawal, but definitely with a huge smile on my face. I remember Bob telling me that if I enjoyed that climb, that the next year I should aim my sights on Forbidden Peak.

So I did.

This was supposed to be my big goal for the year, the climb that I was going to work up to. I’ve already read all about the “airystep” on Summitpost. I’ve looked at tons of pictures of the route and committed those images to memory. I’d been doing my research on the cruxy bits, thinking that one day I’ll work up the courage and strength to do it. I need to develop trad skills for placement, and get comfortable leading on gear. I need to mentally prepare for run-out on relatively easy terrain, but one that has large consequences with a single misstep. Am I going to be ready this year? Am I going to be on target with my training schedule?

When Andrew Holman asked me if I was interested in tackling Forbidden Peak as one of his final climbs in the Pacific Northwest, I jumped on it like a fat kid on a candy bar. Honestly it was a lot sooner than I expected, but hey, take your opportunities when you can! Climbing with him previously has proven to be fun and rewarding, and even though we have exactly opposite personalities on the Myer’s Briggs, we get along well. I know he’s a strong alpinist, and that he’d be able to lead many of the pitches if I got freaked out.

I had myself a solid partner.

For the climb, we plan to join up with Kai Waldron and Ingrid Nye. We debate camping out in the basin for a night, or knocking it out in a single push. We know it can be a pain to get permits and

30 —Mazama Bulletin

even though we were pretty sure they’d be available, we’ve been told that a single-push is totally doable and has been done before. The Mountaineer’s website gives me a breakdown of 3 hours to camp, 6–9 hours to the summit, and 8–10 to get back. By conservative estimates, if we leave at midnight, we can be back at the car by 7–10 p.m.—a long day, but manageable.

We did a Portland start with brunch at the Screendoor on Saturday morning before driving north. We set up camp for a few hours at the Cascade River Trailhead and enjoyed awesome views of Johannesburg Mountain and Boston Basin. After a restful 3-ish hours of sleep to the sounds of coyotes nearby and large ice falls letting loose in the canyon around us we are on the move.

The hike up isn’t too noteworthy. The trail winds uphill steeply through the forest as it slowly gets more and more dense. We get off-trail, or maybe it simply turns into a bushwack at some point, and manage a couple of interesting creek crossings. We know we just have to go up and north, and so we do without much hassle.

We make it to the basin in exactly 3 hours. Perfect timing. I also get to witness the biggest snow release I’ve ever seen on Johannesburg.

I watch the ice flow from top to bottom, barreling its way loudly down the mountain in the pre-morning dawn. We stand there in awe and take in this amazing demonstration of nature’s power.

We hike up to the higher base camp to find only one tent setup, where the residents are slowly waking up and getting ready. Seeing that they are really fresh from actually sleeping and that the snow is kind of soft, we take our time fitting our crampons, donning our helmets and harnesses, snacking, and taking care of any other housekeeping possible to let them stay ahead and kick steps for us.

This was an excellent technique I’ve learned in the past, and it pays dividends. Thanks guys!

The couloir of snow is nice—steep and fun. We self-belay until we get to the rock where we setup the rope. We know that there are numerous pitches ahead, and a lot of it is 4th/low 5th class. The most efficient accepted method is either free-climb or simul-climb as much as possible. This is precisely what we did. Having never used this technique before I was surprised how well it can flow if you

Ingrid hiking up through Boston Basin. Mike, with Kai in the distance, on Forbidden’s West Ridge. Kai and Mike make it to Boston Basin at dawn. Photos: Andrew Holman.

get your timing right. You pick up on a lot of signals just based on how the rope is tugging or going slack without seeing your partner.

I was really ecstatic that, as I reach the “airy step” I read all about, the rope gets tighter and tighter, and is literally pulling me into the void. Before I had a chance to really sit there and think about how I was going to get across, the rope tells me that it was go-time and over I went. It was just as cool as I thought it was going to be, minus the forced timing ... What I didn’t know is that I would get the opportunity for significantly more and bigger airy steps all along the route.

We get into a great rhythm, climbing upwards and onwards— running into a few areas of technical bits dangling off of the rock and happy to be on a rope. There are also sections that you can just walk quickly over, skipping from rock to rock. Then there are sections where you sit down and butt-belay your way over, or as the French

eloquently call it: à cheval (mounting the horse). When we get to the harder bits, we stop and do proper belaying. The pro is great, the supposed Beckey piton stuck in the rock is awesome to see, along with the cruxy moves around it; another piton looked like some screwball took tin-metal and banged into the mountain as a joke. The climbing is great, and we don’t want it to end. The weather however keeps getting foggier and colder, and we begin to realize that this is taking quite a bit of time.

We hit the summit at 1:30 p.m. A little late, but close to tracking with our time estimates. Andrew and I highfive each other, waiting for the other two for a moment, then make our way back down. Unfortunately, with the timing and the weather, Ingrid and Kai make the choice to turn around before summiting: so close, but a good call.

Andrew is leading the whole way, which means that as a second responsible for cleaning, I am technically on the sharp end of the rope on the way down. Seeing it’s already been a bit of a day, I remind myself not to rush, take it easy, and enjoy the views. This really helps me mentally.

We pull all the tricks in the book to be efficient, including quite a few simul-rappels (my first), and simul-downclimbs (another first), and make it back down to the basin without incident.

We make it back into the trees at dusk. It is around 9 p.m. and we are going to blow by the conservative estimate by just a bit. What we don’t know yet is by just how much.

We can’t find the trail. At all. We have a map. We have GPS coordinates. We have a track. It all seems to be useless. We run into footprints from time to time, but it seems like within 20 feet they’re gone again. Instead of running in circles trying to find the “trail,” which we know is a bushwack anyway, we make the decision to aim in the right general direction, and hope to pick it up again.

We come upon our first stream crossing, which isn’t too bad. It is difficult to judge the best place to cross when you only have the light of a headlamp. The shadows can mess with you, especially when you’re a bit tired. I do my best to stay composed and keep on going.

continued on next page July/2014—31

Mike topped out near the summit of Forbidden Peak. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Forbidden,

continued from previous page We must eventually hit the trail and get back to the car.

Right?

After the crossing, we find ourselves in an ultra-dense young juniper sapling forest where every step we take we end up being smacked in the face by a branch. I’m not sure if going forward is going to get any better and my headlamp is completely obscured by the last branch.

Thwack after thwack after thwack, we finally make it to the second creek.

Only this creek turns out to be a torrential river with no easy crossing in sight. We bushwhack up and down and up and down and up and down again looking for any possible way across. We’re tired. Dead tired.

It’s now 1:30 a.m. Two of our members are sitting down and have fallen asleep in that position. We look at each other and make the hard call.

Time to bivy. We can’t see, and we will resume once daylight comes back. The night is cold and we are wet. In the middle of the night, members in the party randomly get up and turn on their headlamps and just stare into space. Someone gets up, moves around for 5 minutes to get warm, and lays back down to try to sleep. Too cold to sleep, but too tired to not doze off for bits at a time;

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we are all in a very weird delusional zombie mode just waiting for dawn. It sucks.

When dawn comes, I couldn’t be happier.

I have had no sleep and feel worse than before, but at least I can now see all the trees that were making my life hell. I can probably find better lines to bushwack through this forest, and we can probably find a way across this river. We are all shivering uncontrollably as we get up, but the second we begin bushwacking again, we get nice and toasty in seconds. I felt great again!

Eventually we find a way across, and are rewarded for our success with more bushwacking on the other side. Good thing it is all prickly and thorny bushes; we wouldn’t want it to be too easy. We can’t find any trail, and we just keep trying for the path of

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32 —Mazama Bulletin

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least resistance, aiming for a landmark. We start seeing barrels and other signs of human life: remnants of the diamond mine that used to be in the area. We are close to on-track, and eventually we run into the trail! Our morale skyrockets as we run into rangers five minutes later. Apparently they are already out looking for us. They are excited to find us so soon, since apparently the parking lot is less than 100 feet away. That’s right, we fully bushwhacked that entire 3 mile section. What took 3 hours in one direction, took 8 plus 3 hours of “napping.” Twentytwo conservative hours turned out to be thirty-three. Whoops.

If done again, I’d camp in Boston Basin, both on the way in and the way out. It would have been awesome to get rest and walk through that forest during the day.

Next time I would also bring multiple GPS tracks if possible, and record points on my way in to make the way out easier. But I was as ready as I ever was going to get for this climb, and it turned out to be even more of an adventure than I could imagine. I never thought I’d say this so soon after, but ... A+ great climb. I would definitely do it again!

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SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS May 14, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Kate Evans. Eric Koehler, Cloudy Sears, Garry Stephenson, John Sterbis May 21, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Justin Brady. Matthew Boyd, Jim Cassella, Evan Johnson, Jacob Raab, SergeiSveshnikov, Katya Staroseltseva

June 7, Mt. Ellinor, Southeast Chute. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Tom Baughman. Laura Baughman, Conner Chamberlin, Brad Megee June 7, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: Larry Beck. Andy Bauer, Karlene Cox, Jason Hodge, Walter Keutel, Kristie Perry, Chris Valencia, Sahmie Yun

June 10, Castle–Pinnacle, Reflection Lake.

Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Bertie August. Benjamin Grandy, Adam Russell, Brandon Schwartz, Leslie Shotola, Michael Simek, Allison Tigard June 10, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Doug Wilson. Morgan Harvery, Stephen Kingsbury, Steven Loos, Michael Street, Jen Travers, Robin Wilburn

May 23, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: Tom Freeman. Matt Fogarty, Javid Ghorashian, Choul Huda, Patrick Neal, Conner Neal, Charles Stilwell

June 8, Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute. Leader: Gregory Willmarth, Asst: Benjamin Grandy.

Sebastian Button, Lori Coyner, Stephanie Keske, Thomas Kirk, Annie McCartney, Teresa Redman, Shakul Tandon, Jason Ward

May 23, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: George Shay. Sujay Deshmukh, Wendell Hartlauer, Karthik Jambunathan, David Roberts, Ashish Shavarna, Kayla Stolte, Ryan Toupal, Melissa Trammel

June 8, Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake.

Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Kim Osgood.

John Andrews, Sharon Birchfield, Mike Gaughen, Darrin Gunkel, Tim Remmers, Kim Wegener, David Wilson

May 24, Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake.

Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst: Lynne Pedersen.

Shannon Ashford, Jeff Maag, James Olcott, Mason Purdy, Barbera Weiss

June 8, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Carol Bryan, Asst: Kirstin Labudda. Nancy Bently, Amanda Crochet, Sarah Lydecker, Helene Simon, Dawn Van Seggen, Cristine Yankel

June 12, Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Ally Imbody. Rachael Davidson, Larry Davidson, James Ethridge, Jake Fagerness, Andrea Kowalski, Brad Megee, Ashish Shavarna, Jon Skeen, Brad Unruh

May 24, Mt. Hood, Mazama Chute. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Justin Brady. Gary Ballou, Dan Codorean, James Garner, Patricia Neighbor, Joe Petsche, Patrick Thorpe

June 8, Mt. Angeles, East Ridge. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Tom Baughman. Laura Baughman, Conner Chamberlin, Brad Megee

June 14, North Sister, South Ridge. Leader: Jeffrey Welter, Asst: Paul Montgomery. Craig Hanneman, Tomasz Piekarz

May 25, Mt. Hubris, The Ogre. Leader: Jeff Hawkins, Asst: John Meckel. Matt Bailie, Micah Mays, Freda Sherburne, Ken Skeen

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May 30, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Alex Fox. Jason Hodge, Kiska Kosakowski, Sarah Lydecker, Aaron Miller, Jim Miller, Krista Mugavero, Carianne Nieuwstraten, Chris Tinnin

June 11, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Bertie August. Benjamin Grandy, Adam Russell, Brandon Schwartz, Leslie Shotola, Michael Simek, Allison Tigard

June 9, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Amad Doratotaj. Cheryl Frankenfield, Brook Harris, John Hartnett, Ron Hope, Ryan Johnson, Jon Longley, Rico Micallef, Joe Petsche

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May 25, Mt. Shasta, Cascade Gulch. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Karen Vernier. Tom Dodson, Dyanne Foster, Andrew Leaf, Christopher Salaz

June 11, Castle–Pinnacle, Reflection Lake.

Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Shirley Welch.

Morgan Harvey, Stephen Kingsbury, Steven Loos, Michael Street, Robin Wilburn

Wilderness First Responder Training

June 1, Mt. Hood, Sunshine. Leader: Vaqas Malik, Asst: Ankush Varma. Tyler Bax, Brinda Ganesh, Marc Heisterkamp, Jonathan Myers, Sarah Raff, Mike Raff, Brad Wood June 6, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Grant Causton. Barbera Ellington, Jason Linse, Rachel Pike, Cyndy Rutto, Ben Stabley, Brooke Weeber June 7, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: John Andrews. Jenny Bedell-Stiles, Neal Bridgnell, Jeff Chamberlain, Tim Donner, Kiska Kosakowski, Kim Osgood, Erica Timm June 7, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Mike Magyar. Tim Anderson, Lisa Anderson, Brian Bates, Justin Colquhoun, Dennis Damici, Robert Douglass, Kim Edger, Brett Nair

Troutdale, OR August 23-29, 2014 call for details: 866-936-0910 $650/person July/2014—33

Go Hiking!

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike.

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike 20s & 30s Mazamas are also hiking: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions.

To lead a hike in August, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.

HK C2 Jul 02 (Wed) Boulder Ridge to Huckleberry Mountain. Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Cross the Salmon River on a long footbridge, and switchback through the forest with views of Mt. Hood and Hunchback Mt. Early July brings foxglove, daisy, and iris. 10.6 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 73 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 05 (Sat) Tom-Dick Mountain. Andrea Kowalski alkcomm@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. We’ll leave early to get parking at the trailhead and beat the crowd for great views of Mt. Hood and other glaciated peaks from Tom and Dick summits. Mirror Lake on the way. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft. Dr. 94 Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU

HK B2 Jul 04 (Fri) Horseshoe Ridge. Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373. Wilderness—Limit 12. This little beauty is an old favorite­—come back again!

Conditioning pace for the first four miles up through forest and well-graded switchbacks. Last mile through open alpine meadows with volcano views! Home in time for BBQ and fireworks. 10.4 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C1.5 Jul 05 (Sat) Yocum Ridge. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will hike past Ramona Falls and steadily uphill to view the start of the Sandy River. Last year there was a little snow still there. This will be 1.5 to 2 pace. Call for a place but at 6:45 a.m. the spot will open up.

Bring extra water. 17.4 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 7 a.m.

HK A2 Jul 05 (Sat) Dry Creek Falls. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. This short hike features a nice forested section of the Pacific Crest Trail and the scenic Dry Creek Falls. 5.4 miles 710 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU

HK A2 Jul 06 (Sun) Wahclella and Elowah Falls.

Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. In this short hike visit Wahclella, Upper McCord, and Elowah Falls as well as getting a nice overlook of Elowah Falls and the Columbia River. Reserve a space (held until 8:20 a.m.) on this wilderness area hike either by signing up on the Mazama Trail Trips Meetup site or by e-mailing the leader. 4.8 miles 900 ft. Dr. 60 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU

New! Gear Demo Program Thanks to a generous donation from Leki, we have just launched a new Gear Demo Program. We have 30 pairs of Leki Corklite trekking poles for you to take for a spin, 20 unisex and 10 women-specific.

Costs: 10 days—$2 members/$5 nonmembers. One month (members only)—$5.

Reserve online at mazamas.org/resources/ gear-demo-program/ or just come in to the MMC. Then head for the hills and see what you think of Leki’s lightweight trekking pole.

Even better, take a photo of yourself in action and post it to our Facebook page and tag Mazamas and Leki.

Grab a pair for your next trail trips hike and always be sure-footed on tricky terrain.

34 —Mazama Bulletin

HK B1.5 Jul 06 (Sun) Nick Eaton-Gorton Creek Loop. Ursula Edlund ursedl123@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Most of our hiking will be in the shade with great views. We will take our time to get up to the ridge; after that it’s mostly downhill.

The plan is lunch at Indian Point (optional), back the Gorton Creek trail. 8 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jul 07 (Mon) Saddle Mountain. Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. Flowery Fun Time The flowers should be rocking on Saddle Mountain, so here’s a chance for a slow-paced hike to check them out. 7.2 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 96 Target/185th 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Jul 09 (Wed) Fort Vancouver Walk. Kent Meyer 360-574-0784. Two distance options: A 2 mile out-and-back to the Old Apple Tree just beyond the landscaped Land Bridge over Highway 14 with a stop at the Fort on the way back to the Visitor Center. The other option is a 3.25 mile loop beyond the Old Apple Tree to the walkway along the Columbia and return to the Visitor Center. We might be able to separate, and part of us return to the Visitor Center while the rest continue. Both paths are paved and mostly flat. Bring a lunch and eat under cover near the Visitor Center. Call for directions if needed. 2 or 3.25 miles 50 ft. Dr. 0 Fort Visitor Center 10 a.m.

Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule.

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson.

The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m.

Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat.

Total time: 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 feet Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark). Group leaves the MMC promptly at 6 p.m.

HK C2 Jul 11 (Fri) Lolo Pass to Buck’s Peak. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 . For PCT lovers. This exploratory hike starts at Lolo Pass TH and we hike 8 miles north on the PCT to Buck Peak and then return the way we came. We will be hiking in the Bull Run Watershed and there are nice views of Mt. Hood, Lost Lake and Lost Lake Butte. You need to be in good shape for this hike. 16 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 3 hrs TH MMC 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2.5 Jul 12 (Sat) Ramona Falls loop. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. The rushing waters of the Sandy River and blooming rhododendrons will likely accompany us along this delightful early summer hike within the Mt. Hood Wilderness. 7.3 miles 810 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jul 12 (Sat) Indian Mountain. Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503-665-6778.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Plan on a full day exploring Mt, Hood’s seldom-visited northwest side. Sign the summit register and read narratives of those who have gone before us. Or, simply enjoy stunning and sweeping views from the rocky summit. Insect repellent might be a good idea. Wilderness restrictions limit group size to 12. Vehicles will need to display a NW Forest Pass. 9 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 160 TH L and C - near toilets 7:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Jul 12 (Sat) Silver Star (Starway). Gary Bishop gbish90@hotmail.com. Take the most challenging trail to the top of Silver Star. Start out with a steep ascent of an abandoned jeep trail, then follow a brushy but scenic ridge-line trail to meet the

Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and reminders of hikes you have RSVPd for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at http://www.meetup.com/mazama-hiking/

A team of hikers enjoying the views on Hamilton Mountain. Photo: Alex Gauthier.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory.

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12.

MU=Hike is posted on Meetup.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Bluff Mt. Trail for the final push to the summit.

Trekking poles recommended. (Sign up at the Gateway TC only.) 9.2 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 75 TH Gateway TC 9 a.m.

HK B1 Jul 13 (Sun) Tom-Dick Mountain. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Nice grade to Mirror Lake and slightly moderate to the ridge-line for lunch. Views and flowers. No pre-registration for the hike. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft. Dr. 94 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jul 13 (Sun) Salmon Butte. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. A nice climb through old-growth forest with views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson and the SalmonHuckleberry Wilderness. Blooming rhododendrons and wildflowers await. 11.2 miles 3100 ft.

Dr. 90 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jul 19 (Sat) Lookout Mountain, Oval Lake and Palisade Point. Diana Forester 503288-7782. Wilderness—Limit 12. Leisurely pace.

Climb to the highest peak east of Mt. Hood with a full frontal view of Mt. Hood and all the Cascades from Three Sisters to Rainier. Then follow the Divide trail to a 300 foot crag overlooking Badger Creek Wilderness. Finally, make a detour to a small lake at the base of Palisade Pt. This is an out-and-back hike. Hike is also posted in the Classic Mazama section. 6.7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 154 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 19 (Sat) Lava Canyon. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com.

St. Helens Medley #1: One of the unique hikes in the Northwest. We will descend into Lava Canyon with the help of ladders and suspension bridges to a lunch spot on Smith Creek. 6.6 miles

1,600 ft. Dr. 32 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Jul 19 (Sat) Gales Creek. Barry O’Mahony barry.coyotecreekranch@gmail.com (503)703-2952. Pleasant hike along the heavily wooded Gales Creek Trail in the Tillamook State Forest. This trail was re-opened in 2012 after being closed by the 2007 floods. This will be a oneway hike from the Reehers Camp trailhead to the Gales Creek Campground trailhead. Most of the elevation gain is done in the first two miles. 10.1 miles 1,200 ft. Car Shuttle. Dr. 50 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 20 (Sun) Mt. Margaret. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com.

St. Helens Medley #2: This hike climbs through the blown-down but slowly rejuvenating forest from Norway Pass Trailhead to Norway Pass, then follows the very spine of the Mt. Margaret backcountry to the summit of Mt. Margaret. 11.6 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 112 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 20 (Sun) Sheep Canyon Loop (Blue Lake). Deborah Gant gant.deb@gmail.com. Mt. St. Helens: Alpine vistas, wildflower meadows, noble canyons, old growth trees, and the edge of the 1980 blast zone at the South Fork of the Toutle River. We’ll also get up close to the mountain on the Loowit trail. Wear sturdy shoes/boots and bring trekking poles. Limit 12—email to reserve a spot or take your chances at Gateway. 12.5 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 140 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th.

Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

HK C2 Jul 20 (Sun) Dome Rock. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com.

continued on next page July/2014—35

Mazama Trail Tending Weekend July 24-26, 2014 Once again we will be tending our namesake adopted trail on Mt. Hood over a 3-day period in July. The Dollar Lake fire three years ago will continue to present challenges for years to come in maintaining this trail.

Participants can opt to work any or all of the days as the Trail Tending Committee will be camping at the parking lot all 3 days and will be there to greet and train all volunteers. We will have carpooling leaders available to lead convoys on each morning, leaving from Portland area locations (see listings in schedule on previous page). Those wishing to drive themselves for a day or to stay over can follow directions at the end of this announcement. Note that the campsite is dry (BYO water) but we will have a porta-potty available.

Long pants, long sleeved shirt, gloves and sturdy boots are USFS requirements for work parties so be sure to arrive properly equipped (eye protection, i.e. sunglasses, is also encouraged). People will be assigned to work tasks suitable for their strengths and preferences and led to the work site.

Maximum hike in will be 3.5 miles, but most work sites will be much closer to the trailhead, as little as ¼ mile. During the mid-day lunch break we will try to pick spots with great views!

After lunch a short work session will continue and we plan to have everyone back in the parking lot by 3 p.m. for cold drinks before carpooling back to Portland. As always, trail tending events are free of charge.

Driving directions: Highway 26 eastbound to ZigZag, turn left on Lolo Pass Road, proceed to the top of the pass. Take the second right turn at the pass onto road 18 (gravel) and drive about 6 miles to where it turns back to pavement and take an immediate right onto road 1810. The trailhead is 2.5 miles up road 1810 at a large gravel parking lot. Driving time from Portland is around an hour and 45 minutes.

Mount St. Helens Medley!

Between July 19–July 25, Rex Breunsbach will lead you on seven different hikes to explore the Mount St. Helens area. See the hike schedule for full details. Don’t miss out on this great opportunity to experience the beauty of Mount St. Helens.

• July • July • July • July • July • July • July

19—Lava Canyon 20—Mt. Margaret 21—Ape Canyon Trail 22—Butte Camp 23—Independence Pass Loop 24—Loowit Falls: Plains of Abraham Loop 25—Sheep Canyon

36 —Mazama Bulletin

Trail Trips, continued from previous page Steep hike leads from Detroit Lake to a former lookout site with stunning views of the Central Cascades.

For an extra 3.5 miles and 800 ft. we can hit Tumble Lake to swim.

An adventure either way. 10.6 miles 3,270 ft. Dr. 200 Airport Rd. Park and Ride, Salem 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Jul 20 (Sun) Paradise Park (from Hwy 26). Margaret Smith 503-720-6795. Wilderness—Limit 12. Avoid the sun in Zig Zag Canyon, but still enjoy the beauty of Paradise Park. 12.7 miles 3,100 ft.

Dr. 100 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 21 (Mon) Ape Canyon Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com.

St. Helens Medley #3—The Ape Canyon Trail provides the best possible place to see a large lahar.

This route climbs along the edge of the huge Muddy River Lahar with spectacular views down the upper gorge of Ape Canyon 9.6 miles 1340 ft. Dr. 32 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU HK C1.5 Jul 21 (Mon) Cascade Head-Harts Cove. Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. With the gate to the upper trailhead open, we’ll do both hikes at Cascade Head: Up to the high meadow from the lower trailhead, then over to Harts Cove.

It’s a long drive, so we might as well get both in! 12.4 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 182 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 22 (Tue) Butte Camp.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. St. Helens Medley #4—This hike takes you across lava beds and through forest from Redrock Pass Trailhead on the Toutle Trail to a junction with Butte Camp Trail, then on to the Loowit Trail at timberline on the southern slope of Mt. St. Helens 1,650 miles 7.6 ft. Dr. 27 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 23 (Wed) Independence Pass Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. St. Helens Medley #5—The Independence Loop offers great scenery, including Spirit Lake, the gaping crater of Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier, and the jagged peaks and green ridges of the Mt. Margaret backcountry. 7.1 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 112 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 24 (Thu) Loowit Falls—Plains of Abraham Loop.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Mt. St. Helens Medley #6—From Windy Pass hike to Loowit Falls, with warm water flowing from the crater of Mt. St. Helens, then looping back over Windy Pass across the Plains of Abraham and back to

the cars. 11.7 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 120 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU TT Jul 24 (Thu) Mazama Trail Tending. Richard Pope 503-860-8789.

Wilderness—Limit 12. All tools provided, see special information section applicable to all three days. 4-7 miles 1,000–2,000 ft. Dr. 116 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 25 (Fri) Sheep Canyon.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. St. Helens Medley #7—Starting from oldgrowth forest this hike climbs to near timberline. Then descend the ridge to see the destructive power of a volcanic eruption in the form of blasted trees and a lahar. 11.5 miles 2,270 ft.

Dr. 26 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA 10 a.m. MU TT Jul 25 (Fri) Mazama Trail Tending. Richard Pope 503-860-8789.

Wilderness—Limit 12. All tools provided, see special information section applicable to all three days. 4-7 miles 1,000–2,000 ft. Dr. 116 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jul 26 (Sat) Larch Mountain Crater. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Start late to have the best views at Sherrard Point after going through stupendous forests on the crater floor and seeing upland meadows and views of the Gorge. Back to Gateway by 5 p.m.

A favorite hike in late July. 7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 10 a.m. MU HK C2 Jul 26 (Sat) Whetstone Mountain. Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Experience beautiful Bull of the Woods wilderness with a hike that includes more than 20 switchbacks to the summit. Close-up views of Jefferson and panoramic views from Rainier to the Sisters to Mary’s Peak on the coast. 11 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 190 MMC 7:30 a.m.

TT Jul 26 (Sat) Mazama Trail Tending. Richard Pope 503-860-8789.

Wilderness—Limit 12. All tools provided, see special information section applicable to all three days. 4-7 miles 1,000-2,000 ft. Dr. 116 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jul 27 (Sun) Tillamook Spit.

Richard Getgen teambears@frontier. com. Loop hike: half on the beach and half on the estuary. 8.1 miles 100 ft. Dr. 130 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Jul 30 (Wed) Cairn Basin (Top Spur). Bob Breivogel 503-2974284. Wilderness—Limit 12. Start from the Top Spur trailhead off the Lolo Pass road on the west side of Mt. Hood. Wildflower meadows and great views of the west face of the mountain. About 5 hours hiking,;back by 5 p.m.. 8.7 miles 200 ft. Dr. 100 TH MMC 8 a.m.

Mazamas CISM Team to Provide Aid to the Sherpa in Nepal Join us on August 20 at 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a special evening fundraising event to support the Mazama Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) committee and their efforts to bring support services to the Sherpa of Nepal.

The Mazama CISM team is working in partnership with the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation to send a team of trained Critical Stress Management volunteers to Nepal to work with the Sherpa who were so dramatically affected during the accident this spring on Mt. Everest. More information will be provided online and in the August Mazama Bulletin.

Letter-Writing House Party How do you know if your comment letters on environmental issues are making a real impact? Do you know what it takes to write an effective piece? Hop over to a letter-writing house party with Hells Canyon Preservation Council and enjoy food, beverages and like-minded company while you write a truly effective letter speaking out in defense of your wild lands. The Blue Mountains Forest Plan revision process is underway, and many of the new policy plans are disappointing, to say the least. The comment period has been extended.

Come learn what is amiss and how you can speak out for preservation!

We need to maximize the chance that our voices will be heard for the sake of the cherished eastern wild lands of this state. Letter-writing materials will be provided, and we’ll even mail ‘em for ya.

Wednesday, July 30: 1208 First St. La Grande, Ore. 97850 Thursday, July 31: 4422 NE Mallory Ave. Portland, Ore. 97211 August 1, 392: Catherine St. Walla Walla, Wash. 99362 Contact lauren@hellscanyon.org with questions.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

July/2014—37

Welcome New Mazamas!

Erik Berglund—South Sister Scott Brittell—Mt. St. Helens Trevor Brown—Mt Shasta Brandon Busey—Mt. St. Helens Michell Carlson—South Sister Hannah Carlton—Mt. St. Helens Karlene Cox—Mt. Kilimanjaro Rommel De Leon—Mt. St. Helens Sujay Deshmukh—Mt. St. Helens Tim Donner—Mt. St. Helens Choul Huda—Mt. St. Helens Mitsuhiko Iwasaki—Mt. Blanc Iddo Kadim—Mt. St. Helens Daphna Kadim—Mt. St. Helens Samuel Kimerling—Mt. St. Helens

Susan King—Mt. Adams Andrea Kowalski—Mt. St. Helens Joshua Mitchell—Mt. St. Helens David Mull—Mt. Hood Satyaprakash Nanda—Mt. St. Helens Cabe Nicksic—Mt. St. Helens Mason Purdy—Mt. St. Helens Cyndi Rowbotham—Mt. St. Helens James Rykken—Mt. Hood Lou Simmons—Mt. Hood Christian Thomas—Mt. Hood Valerie Uskoski—Mt. Kilimanjaro Brooke Weeber—Mt. St. Helens Joseph Westersund—Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements Laura Darland (2012), Margaret DiUlio (1982), Cameron Dorn (2012), Gary Rischitelli (1989), Dominique Savage (1982).

SPACE AVAILABLE FOR TRAILS CLUB WILDERNESS ALPINE OUTING There are still vacancies for the second week of the outing (Aug. 16–23). You may also want to put in your application for the wait list for the first week (Aug. 9–16) Note that the location for the camp has been changed and the hike in will be less strenuous than the one to Oval Lake.

Spend a week hiking in the beautiful Chelan/Sawtooth Wilderness in northern Washington State. You hike in with a day pack (almost 8 miles and 2,500 feet elevation gain). When we arrive, the prior week’s group will have set up the cook tent and the screen tent. The outfitter will bring in your personal gear as well as the fresh meat, vegetables, and some fresh fruit for the week. The rest of the food will have come in with the outfitter when he took in week one campers.

We will spend the week at Boiling Lake which has an abundance of trails nearby. The hikes are mostly A and B hikes but there are also opportunities to travel cross country and to make longer hikes as long as there are at least three people interested in C level hikes. Boiling Lake is shallow and not suitable for swimming but Upper Eagle Lake two miles away has wonderful cold swimming and good fishing. Cub Lake also provides swimming but it is four miles away.

The Trails Club Wilderness Outing is unique in that everyone pitches in to cook the group meals, wash the dishes, and haul water. On the other hand, you do not have to bring in any food, water treatment or the many other things that you would need to organize and bring if you were doing this on your own.

On the last day, we will be taking down the tents and getting everything ready for the outfitter to bring it to the trailhead.

Cost of the outing is $425 for Trails Club members and members of other Western Federation of Outdoor Activities.

Download an application on the website and return it with your deposit. If you have questions, contact Diana Forester at 503-2887782 who is the leader for week two or one of the chairs for the outing, Callista Snively 503-330-7344 or Jim Flick 360-687-4776.

38 —Mazama Bulletin

NEW REINSTATED DECEASED

May 31, 2013: 3,289 May 31, 2014: 3,301

+ + -

30 5 0

+

35

Council Minutes, continued from page 39 revisit the question again at the August EC meeting.

Tim Scott, chair of the Portland Alpine Fest, presented a planning update. The Saturday night event will be called the Summit. Two ballrooms will be available at the Oregon Convention Center, with a lobby between. One ballroom will be for food, the bar, vendors, and the auction, the other for the speakers and awards. They are hoping for more athletes and more financial contributions from athletes’ sponsors. The marketing plan is complete. Tim has been asked to present a budget to the EC in July.

Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager, presented her Staff Goals update on the Youth Program, Volunteer Management Plan, SVPP Encore Fellows Program, the RespectNow! Campaign, and Leadership Development. Almost all projects are on track, and the RespectNow! Campaign is complete.

Kati Mayfield presented the RespectNow! Task Force disciplinary policy. We discussed the policy, and Sojo Hendrix moved to approve the policy for one year, effective immediately. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Kati will report at our next retreat about any disciplinary incidents and how the code is working. Her Task Force also added an eighth value to our values list: “ Respect: As Mazamas, we believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An opening, trusting, inclusive environment is essential to promoting our vision and values.”

After a brief Executive Session, we adjourned at 9:45 p.m.

Next meeting: Tuesday July 8, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: Kate Evans, substitute Executive Council Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter- President; Sojo Hendrix – Vice President; Terry DonaheTreasurer; Judith Baker, Amy Mendenhall, Heather Campbell, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber.

Lee Davis- Executive Director. Absent: Meg Goldberg Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m.

The minutes of the May 13, 2014 meeting were approved. Marty Hanson stated his concern that the way the consent agenda of pre-submitted written committee reports is handled in the minutes does not give members any information about the report contents.

Membership Report: Oral report by Kate Evans. There were 30 applications for membership, 5 reinstatements, no resignations, and 0 deceased with a net change of 35 members. Total membership as of May 31, 2014 was 3,301 showing a net increase of 12 members since May 31, 2013.

Treasurer’s Report: As of April 30, 2014, seven months into our fiscal year, Mazamas total operating revenue is $717,000 and operating expenses are $707,564. Assets (cash) available for general operations on 4/30/14 are $635,352. Current total assets as of April 30, 2014 are $1,446,119.

The Mazamas received an initial payment of $360,000 from the Weinstein Estate on June 5, 2014. An additional $5-10K remains in receivables from the estate pending any final attorney costs to close the estate.

Terry Donahe and Lee Davis are continuing conversations with the foundation regarding our strategic plan and will be preparing a formal grant application to the foundation later this fiscal year.

Jamie and the Financial Affairs Committee are considering proposals to change banks and hopefully reduce transaction fees for Mazamas in the future.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral Report

by Lee Davis.

Lee discussed the status of the strategic plan and our top priorities: Twenty-one students graduated from the Leader Cohort, and many plan to teach for us next year. We also acquired three new hike leaders, and the Cohort developed a new skill-builder on backpacking food. A problem vision statement is needed on how to restructure and diversify our education programs and delivery. We will be working with the Outings Committee to survey their needs and discuss partnered or affiliate outings.

June 10, 2014

He also reported on the meeting with the USFS about the lodge parking lot and environmental work. We budgeted $15,000 of reserve funds for this project for this year, and the USFS is requesting $14,600 and Cardno Engineering will be billing us for one meeting on the mountain. Lee requested the $15,000 be spent as planned. Joan moved to authorize the expenditure. Motion seconded.

Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Regarding IT projects, the new website, new computers, server and email systems are all up and running. Sarah is working with a volunteer IT task force to develop a project plan for a new integrated database system.

Lee’s complete report is on page 3.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted • CISM • Education • Library • Lodge • Programs • Publications • Research Sojo Hendrix moved to accept the consent agenda. Motion seconded. Motion passed.

Action: Approved.

Regular Committee Reports The Families Committee submitted a written request to rescind the Risk 0011 sunset clause. Since there was no motion to rescind, the request was denied. The Executive Council is asking the Families Committee to review and report about any safety issues at next January’s EC meeting.

After reviewing the report, EC anticipates it will decide whether to remove the sunset clause without the Families Committee having to redo the whole process.

Amad Doratotaj, Chair of the Nominating Committee, introduced the five candidates for Executive Council: John Rettig, Daniel Bailey, Steve Hooker, Sunny Freeman, and Marty Hanson. Larry Beck, Pam Rechel, and Michael Chacon are the candidates slated for the Nominating Committee.

John Rettig, Co-Chair of the Conservation Committee, requested approval of the following Conservation grants: Crag Law Center $2,500, Cooper Spur Wild and Free $2,500, Friends of Mt. Hood $1000, Gifford Pinchot Task Force $2,500, Hells Canyon Preservation Council $2,500, Oregon Natural Desert Association $2,500, Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility $2,500, and Oregon Wild $2,500. John was asked about and provided more details about the ONDA and OPSR grants. Judith

Baker moved to accept the Conservation Committee grants. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.

John Rettig, Chair of Governing Documents, presented for Executive Council’s approval the revisions of the Employee Handbook. The handbook has been reduced from 20 to 18 pages and ambiguities about vacation time and sick leave have been clarified, with both moving to an accrual basis. Lee Davis recommended that Executive Council review the handbook with staff and legal/HR counsel before acting. Heather Campbell agreed to oversee this process.

Old Business Adam Baylor, Stewardship and Communications Manager, presented his Staff Goals update. He reviewed his community and government relations and stewardship goals and presented his goal to develop a Public Affairs Plan and a Stewardship Program. He also plans to recruit, train and develop a Chair for the Mazama Access Committee and to continue work on the Beacon Rock film project.

Lee Davis asked for approval for the Mazamas joining the Outdoor Alliance at a yearly cost of $5,000. Lee and Adam have been working with the Outdoor Alliance for two years, and the Seattle Mountaineers and Mazamas are the only mountain clubs that have been invited to join this national group representing human-powered recreation.

Other members are the Access Fund, American Canoe Association, American Whitewater, International Mountain Bicycling Association, and Winter Wildlands Alliance. OA’s purpose is “to conserve and protect public lands and water and the human powered experiences they provide”.

Judith Baker moved that the Mazamas join the Outdoor Alliance for one year.

Heather Campbell wants more information about what the Mountaineers plan to do. Sojo was also concerned about the Mountaineers and an interpretation of the business opportunities section of OA’s bylaws. Joan Zuber is concerned about working with IMBA, a group that does not always support wilderness expansions. Judith and Amy both think this is a wonderful opportunity for partnerships and may be helpful in fundraising and acquiring grants.

In a straw poll half the Council favored acceptance, while half did not “at this time.”

Judith withdrew her motion, and we will

continue on page 38 July/2014—39

Andrew Holman on Liberty Bell. Photo: Jason Lee.