JUNE 2015
VOL. 97
NO. 6
Summer Starts Now Avalanche on Everest The Wy’east Climbers Flower Finder
UPCOMING EVENTS
JUNE 3: RETRACING SHACKLETON’S STEPS
6:30 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company. Free.
JUNE 15—FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101 INFO NIGHT 6:30–8:30 p.m. at the MMC.
JUNE 17—BASIC ROCK SKILLS SKILL BUILDER
Get the basics in this evening skill builder. Get full details online
JUNE 22— INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL INFO NIGHT
FEATURES
Avalanche on Everest, p. 6 The Anti-Public Lands Movement, p. 8 Reaching New Heights: BCEP 2015, p. 10 Flower Finder, p. 11 ICS: A Look Back, p. 12 Is ICS For You?, p. 13 Book Review: Mt. Hood: Adventures of the Wy’east Climbers, p. 14 Hike Leader Appreciation Night, p. 17 Sándor Lau: Hike Leader Profile, p. 20
MONTHLY COLUMNS
Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Upcoming Opportunities, p. 15 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 16 Successful Climbers, p. 18 Mazama Families, p. 21 20s & 30s, p. 22 Classics, p. 23 Membership Report, p. 24 Outings, p. 26 Trail Trips Info, p. 28 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30
6:30–8:30 p.m. at the MMC.
JUNE 24—MAZAMA WELCOME NIGHT
New to the Mazamas? Thinking about joining? This program is for you. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon—Monday Noon (open every day starting June 11)
Publications Committee Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Bob Breivogel, Catherine Diaz, Ken Dubois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Pam Monheimer, Lacy Turner
Cover: Brad Unruh on the Wy’East route on Mt. Hood during sunrise. Photo: Jason Lee. This page: Jon Skeen climbing at Smith Rock. Photo: Tyler Bax.
Mazama Staff Lee Davis • Executive Director lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager sarah@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org Laura Burger • Membership & Development Assistant laura@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager kati@mazamas.org Rick Craycraft • MMC Facility Manager rick@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT
Partnerships Working Together to do More Dear Members, Present in my mind this month is our recent work with Portland Aid for Nepal, a coalition of nonprofits, associations and corporations in Portland who are working together to organize fundraising efforts to bring direct aid to the people of Nepal. The earthquakes and aftershocks that hit Nepal in late April and early May were the worst the country had seen since 1934, with a death toll exceeding 8,000, and affecting over eight million people. Immediately after the first earthquake in April, the Nepali community of Portland organized a meeting that the Mazamas and other concerned citizens attended. A follow-up meeting was held three days later at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Many of us who gathered that day shared strong personal ties to Sherpa communities and rural villages in the Khumbu and Annapurna regions of Nepal. Mazamas is connected to these people through our personal relationships, and also from our decades’ long history of organizing treks and expeditions into the region. While media attention has been focused on the situation in Kathmandu, and (in April) with the climbing teams on the slopes of Mt. Everest, many of us were concerned with understanding the earthquake’s impact to these smaller rural villages, and how we could help them. At this, our first formal meeting, a partnership was formed under the name of
ADVERTISER INDEX Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 8 Centered in Motion, p. 14 Classifieds, p. 16 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 31 Embark Adventures, p. 23 Green Trails, p. 19 Massage with Eugene, p. 8 Montbell, p. 9 Mountain Shop, p. 15
Portland Aid for Nepal. The group includes the Mazamas, Mountain Shop, Portland EcoFilm Fest, Mercy Corps, Base Camp Brewing Company, Hollywood Theatre, Nepali Association of Oregon, and possibly more by the time this goes to press. We immediately started working together to create a series of fundraising events to help with relief and rebuilding efforts. It was heartening to see our community organize so quickly for such an important cause. Our first event was a film premier at the Hollywood Theatre on May 13 that raised $9,000 through ticket sales, raffle tickets, and donations. Mercy Corps had arranged for a corporate match which doubled that amount to $18,000. More events are being planned and will be advertised through our website, email, and social media channels. Many of you will recall that in 2014 the Mazamas organized a fundraiser to send a team from our Critical Incident Stress Management committee to Nepal after the massive avalanche on Mt. Everest that killed 16 Nepalese climbers. After the recent earthquakes, our members started asking if we were fundraising to send a similar team (or teams) back to Nepal this year. Nepal’s economy is hugely reliant on tourism dollars, so organizing an outing or team to visit Nepal later this year will definitely be helpful. Even today, roughly a month after the first earthquake, Nepal remains in serious need of direct aid and support for basic services. Thousands of
Advertise with us! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising Next Adventure, p. 27 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 23 Robert Joy Insurance Agency, p. 14 SMC Gear, p. 25 Smith Rock Rental Home, p. 20 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 20 Villages NW, p. 5 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 27
people in Nepal remain without food, shelter, medical services and supplies, electricity, fuel and communications. Because of this, through Portland Aid for Nepal we decided that funds raised from initial events will all be sent to MercyCorps to help with these direct and immediate needs. Future efforts and events later this year will be focused on helping with rebuilding efforts and working to get skilled teams like CISM and construction teams over to Nepal. The work that the Portland Aid for Nepal coalition accomplished in just a few short weeks has been inspiring. In addition to being proud of our involvement in this group, we can see the power of partnerships in action. In just the last few years we’ve quickly grown the number of outside organizations we are working with. In particular, our networks around youth outreach, stewardship and advocacy, and with the outdoor industry association have solidified. Mazamas youth outreach programming is growing due to a strong partnership with the MESD Outdoor School and the Friends of Outdoor School. Together, and with participation from several public elementary schools in Portland, we were able to pilot
continued on next page MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
JUNE 2015
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STAY CONNECTED ▶▶ Share your photos on Instagram! Follow mazamaspdx. Hashtags: #mazamas, #mazamalodge, #weclimbhigh ▶▶ Stay connected on Facebook: facebook.com/ mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Enjoy the Mazama Bulletin in full color at issuu.com/ mazamas. It is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ Download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Keep up with us on the Mazama blog. Mazamas. blogspot.com
Executive Director’s Report, continued from previous page a new 5th grade outdoor school program at Mazama Lodge. Next year that program is scheduled to quadruple in size, getting over 400 kids up to the mountains who might never have had the opportunity before. Other organizations, including Friends of the Children, Betties360, Adelante Mujeres, and NW Outward Bound, have also helped expand youth outreach programming. Around stewardship and advocacy we also have a long list of partners who are helping the Mazamas grow our capacity to do this work, as well to expand our influence beyond local matters to those of regional and national significance. In particular the Wilderness Society, the Mountaineers, Winter Wildlands Alliance, American Whitewater, Outdoor Alliance, the Access Fund, the AMGA, and the American Alpine Club, REI, and Friends of the Columbia Gorge have been strong supporters and contributors to our advocacy work. Our corporate partnerships are also thriving, with strong annual support coming from various outdoor industry corporations. The Mountain Shop, Liberty Mountain Sports, Grivel, CAMP USA, and REI have all stepped up regularly to support our events and fundraising efforts in the last year.
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We have been working hard to expand our networks and build relationships regionally, nationally, and internationally with mission aligned organizations. Maintaining these relationships and partnerships into the future is important to honoring the investments we and our partners have made so far, and critical to our ability to serve our community. We truly can do more together.
Lee Davis Executive Director Errata: On page 7 of the April Bulletin we stated that Mt. Rainier is the second highest peak in the lower 48. Mt. Rainier is actually the fifth highest peak: Mt. Whitney (CA)–14,505 feet, Mt. Elbert (CO) 14,433 feet, Mt. Massive (CO)–14,428 feet, Mt. Harvard (CO)–14,421 feet, and Mt. Rainier (WA)–14,417 feet. We regret the error.
The Pearly Gates from the Hogsback on Mt. Hood. Photo: Seeger Fisher.
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Strategic Plan Committee
Landscape Volunteers
Annual Mazama Trail Workday
Calling change management experts! The Mazama Strategic Planning Committee is looking for people with a background in strategy and communications to join our team. The Mazamas is developing a communications plan to develop messaging to inform Mazama membership and the community about our strategic initiatives. If you have a background in strategic planning or organizational change management; OR if you are interested in developing these skills, join us at our next meeting. Email Paul Steger, interim Chair, with questions, paulsteger612@ gmail.com.
The Mazamas needs volunteers to help maintain our landscaping and side lawn. First, we need someone to oversee landscaping and maintenance at the MMC. We also need a crew of volunteers to help with projects. The landscaping around the parking lot on the north side of the building requires only basic maintenance—watering and trimming; the south lawn requires a bit more attention in the summer. We have supplies for general maintenance, but lawn mowing volunteers need to bring their own equipment. Please consider helping on a weekly, every-other week, or on-call basis. Contact Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com, if you are willing and able to help.
In the 1990s the Mazamas adopted the old trail on Mt. Hood, known now as the Mazama Trail. Join us for our annual work party to keep the trail in tip-top shape. Over the weekend we will remove downed trees that block the trail, re-grade hiking paths, re-route paths around unstable ground, re-construct access across streams and creeks, and complete general cleanup tasks to remove path obstructions. Trail maintenance experience would be great, but consider joining us even if you have not done this sort of work before. We will provide on-site training and tools. Volunteers are asked to bring personal essentials for trail work, like close-toed shoes, work gloves, etc. For more info or to sign up, contact Adam Baylor, Stewardship and Advocacy Manager, adam@mazamas.org.
Tuesday, June 2
Ongoing
July 23–25
Publications Committee Ongoing
Our Publications Committee is responsible for the Mazama Bulletin, the Annual and the Membership Directory each year. It’s not only Mazama members who see and read these publications, but potential new members as well. We could use a few new volunteers to help out with editing, proofreading and contributing new ideas to keep our publications creative and inspiring. Join us in our quest to keep improving our publications, which are the face of the Mazamas. Contact Sarah Bradham, sarah@mazamas.org, or Kristie Perry, publications@ mazamas.org, if interested.
Summer BCEP Instructors June & July
We are still looking for a few AR and ICS grads to assist with rock and snow field sessions during summer BCEP. The MMC rock session will be held on Saturday, June 6, snow field session will be the weekend of July 13–14, and rock field session will be July 20–21. Please contact Kirstin Labudda, labuddak@ gmail.com, if you are able to help.
Outreach Team Members Ongoing
Do you enjoy attending events and meeting new people? Do you LOVE the Mazamas? Then we need you on the Mazama Outreach Team! Members are on call to represent the Mazamas at mountaineering and outdoor industry events around the community. You can attend the events that interest you and suit your schedule. Contact Outreach Committee Chair Gary Ballou, outreach@mazamas.org, to sign up or learn more.
KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG Kati Mayfield joined the Mazamas as Volunteer Manager in 2012. In this role she supports Mazama volunteers by connecting them with the resources and information they need to fulfill their duties; and by helping new volunteers engage in meaningful ways.
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Edward “Mac” McCullough has been climbing since 1975 and a part of the Mazama membership since 2006. He didn’t initially set out to climb Everest, but over the years his passions for climbing and travel led him to summit 6 of the Seven Summits. He then set his sights on Everest. Mac was at Everest Base Camp in 2014 during the avalanche tragedy in the Khumbu Icefall, and returned this year with AAI for a second attempt on the world’s highest peak. Mac along the hike in to Everest Base Camp. Photo: Jon Johnston.
A firsthand account of the Nepal earthquake and its aftermath by Sarah Bradham
A
t 11:56 a.m. on April 25, Mac McCullough had just completed the final obstacle of Everest’s Khumbu Icefall—a 400 foot long block of ice, 60 feet tall and 70 feet wide, climbed by way of five vertical ladders tied together, followed by five to ten feet of steps cut into the ice. Reaching the top, he turned to see one of his teammates coming up behind him; his lead guide, Damien Benegas, was ahead. It was then that he saw an avalanche cut loose on the West Ridge. The ice beneath his feet was shaking. “Earthquake!” shouted Damien. The shaking felt relatively minor, but the team could see the powder cloud from the avalanche bearing down on them. The climbers on top of the block hastily clipped in to anchors and got as low as they could. Covering their mouths, they waited for impact; 30 seconds … 1 minute … 2 minutes—then it was over. From the first tremor to the dissipation of the powder cloud was likely no more than 3 minutes. It would turn out to be 3 minutes in which thousands of lives were lost, and countless others’ lives would be forever changed. Mac’s Alpine Ascents International (AAI) team had been the last team scheduled to make the trip through the icefall that Saturday morning. The final five members of his team were below when the powder cloud hit; one woman had just started climbing the ladder. Her hands were frozen from clinging to the metal ladder by the time the ordeal was over. The team regrouped and continued to Camp I. A heavy snow had started to fall. At the edge of camp they were met
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by David Breashers who rushed to assure them, “you are okay, you are safe here, you are out of the range of avalanches.” The chill was more than cold, and reality began to sink in; this was something big. Mac borrowed a satellite phone and got word to his sister that he was okay. The news at Camp I was that Everest Base Camp (EBC) had been hit hard, but that AAI’s people and facilities were unharmed. They rode out a night of heavy snow, still unaware of the devastating extent of the earthquake’s damage. There was a feeling of disbelief. Eric Murphy, a guide that Mac had climbed with the previous year when an avalanche killed 16 people in the icefall—up until now the deadliest day on Everest—looked at Mac, “are we really going through this again?” What are the odds? The next morning, Damien made his way down into the icefall to evaluate the condition of the route down. While in the icefall, a strong aftershock hit, further dislodging massive chunks of ice. Initially cut-off, Damien was eventually able to make his way back to Camp I. By mid-afternoon, it was clear that helicopters would be needed to make it back down to EBC. Starting early in the morning of April 27, the major evacuation from the upper camps began. Four helicopters shuttled almost 200 people, along with needed gear, down to EBC. The process was simple enough, pick up at Camp I, slight liftoff, then “fall” down the Western Cwm, down through the icefall, and drop-off the climbers at EBC. One trip took no more than 10 minutes. Flying in thin air, however, the choppers could only take two passengers at a time, and so the evacuation required close to 100 trips.
Mac was on one of the first flights down. Descending from the chopper, he surveyed what was left of EBC. A large swath through the middle of camp had been obliterated. There were scraps of tents, bent poles, climbing mitts with price tags still affixed, shoes, sleeping bags, clothing … debris everywhere. Gear had been thrown 300 yards from camp and onto the glacier. A Canon SLR camera was jammed into the snow, and there were rocks with guylines attached to nothing but a tiny scrap of tent. It looked like a Midwest town after a tornado and a blizzard. Mac and the AAI team spent three more days in EBC. AAI had a fully functional and well-stocked camp, so it made little sense to move. The infrastructure along the trekking route to Everest had been heavily damaged, and they could help the teams whose camps had been destroyed and the trekkers trying to make their way down the valley by staying put. It wasn’t until the AAI team got word that the government was likely to conscript the helicopters for search and rescue work that the team began preparations to return to Kathmandu. Late in the day on April 30, Mac boarded another helicopter, as the team was ferried down to Pheriche (three people per trip) and from Pheriche to Lukla (six people per trip). The following day Mac and his teammates were lucky enough to secure seats on a flight to Kathmandu. It was May 1, and the city was already staggering back to its feet; some shops were open, people were beginning to sleep back inside, and the tent villages were receding. Those that had resources did what they could. One of Mac’s teammates, Sara Safari, volunteers for Empower Nepali Girls, and
was able to find out what the organization needed, hire a cab to drive to the outskirts of the city, and deliver blankets and other basic supplies. It felt like such a small thing to do, but the gratitude from those who had been affected was touching. Damien and his twin brother Willi run their own expedition company, Benegas Brothers, and are well-connected in Nepal. They immediately started work on the relief effort. In the lobby of the Yak and Yeti, Mac watched as the brothers, along with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, one of the first Nepali women to summit K2 and Matt Moniz, kicked their combined networks into high gear. Over the course of one very long day, they were able to evaluate the level of destruction in the Ghorkha
Valley, assess the medical and supply needs and sources, and create a plan to hire local porters to deliver the supplies to this outlying region. Willi and Matt flew to Zurich 2 days later to raise funds while Damian headed out to the Ghorkah Valley. On May 4, Mac started his journey home. Kathmandu, Dubai, Seattle, and finally Portland. Touching down was bittersweet. It felt good to be home, comfortable, safe‌ but should he have stayed? Could he have done more on the ground? Or would his energy be better spent supporting the organizations that already have relief infrastructure in place? The rebuilding effort in Nepal will take years. The early cost projection, before the second earthquake on May 8, was
10 billion dollars. While Kathmandu received much of the initial response and funds, getting to and supplying outlying areas remains a challenge. Some hard-hit villages were isolated by quake damage, further complicating relief efforts. It will be a long road from immediate disaster relief to long-term rebuilding, but, as Mac witnessed, both in the city of Kathmandu and in his hotel lobby, the will is there.
Clockwise, from left: Mac on the final vertical ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: Jon Johnston. Everest Base Camp in the days before the earthquake. Photo: Mac McCullough. Everest Base Camp on April 30. Photo: John Oldring.
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by Adam Baylor, Mazama Stewardship & Advocacy Manager
I
f you haven’t heard about the recent political movement to sell off our public lands, then perhaps now is a good time to pay attention. This year, some of Oregon’s legislators joined other Western states in proposing measures that would transfer federal lands to state agencies. The end goal of this legislation is to create short-term profits through a privatization scheme. Senate and House Joint Memorials 13 and House Bill 3240 are aimed at a state takeover of federal lands to eventually allow for increases in logging and mining, as well as oil and gas extraction by private companies. While most of us believe that the management of public lands should improve, Oregon’s forests and waterways must remain public and accessible. This is the lifeblood of the Mazama mission. Without the great forests of our state to stand strong and healthy, our way of life is in jeopardy.
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We know firsthand the importance of Oregon’s federal lands which is why we believe in protecting the mountain environments. In fact, the Mt. Hood National Forest’s watersheds and ecosystems are intact today because of our conservation efforts throughout the last century. Hopefully with your direct action, they will remain that way for future generations.
#keepitpublic Federal lands in Oregon have also created a vibrant outdoor recreation economy. Our region is a draw for employers and highlyskilled workers. We benefit greatly from a thriving outdoor recreation economy that generates $12.8 billion in annual consumer spending and $955 million in state and local tax revenue. Outdoor recreation in Oregon directly employs 141,000 people. All of these economic benefits depend on access to and maintenance of our federal public lands.
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MAZAMAS
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If Oregon’s state agencies were to takeover federal public lands, it would be a radical shift in natural resource management that would eventually harm outdoor recreation and beyond. Thankfully, this idea lacks legal and historical grounding which is why the Mazamas teamed up with Outdoor Alliance last month to meet with our state legislators in order to educate them about this terrible idea. Our unique perspective of the mountains and forests helps to influence these decision makers. Unfortunately, this effort to sell off our public lands for short-term gains is not going to go away any time soon. The AntiPublic Lands Movement has the backing of billionaires like the Koch Brothers. That is why we encourage you to stand up for America’s public lands. Please write your state senators and representatives and tell them to Keep It Public. Use the hashtag online #KeepItPublic as you post photos of your adventures throughout Oregon’s wild places. For more information about getting involved in the fight for our public lands, please contact Adam@Mazamas.org.
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Reaching New Heights BCEP 2015
by Chris Kruell, BCEP 2015 Coordinator While the snowfall in the Cascades was underwhelming this winter, the 2015 Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) was not! Kicking off with a very full house at the January information session, we had 299 applicants for the spring BCEP class, 55 percent of whom were Mazamas members,
and the majority of whom had friends refer them to the class. Thirty-four climb leaders stepped up to lead and co-lead a total of 22 teams, so we were able to include 260 students—the largest BCEP classes offered this decade. In addition to the climb leaders, we had well over 200 volunteer instructors, creating a village of 500 people who came together for seven weeks to continue the 65-year tradition of the Mazamas
Clockwise, from top: Black Adders in the clouds. Photo: Greg Simons. A spring day at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Chris Kruell. Rikki had fun. Photo: Chris Kruell.
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involvement in developing basic climbing skills. As in years past, these 22 teams dispatched themselves all over the region to hike, practice in the snow, and learn how to become more comfortable on outdoor rock. Despite early worries, we eventually did get enough of the white stuff at Timberline to hold snow sessions. Students have long come to BCEP with backpacking and hiking experience; we’re seeing a reflection of the growing popularity of rock gyms, as many students are also joining the program with rock climbing experience. With the BCEP curriculum having been formally defined last year, based on the Scope and Sequence document delivered by the Climbing and Education Committees, the primary focus of this year’s committee was to maintain continuity in delivering the program. With continuity, though, came some slight changes, with an eye toward improvement. The Student Handbook was revised into distinct modules that clearly identified the knowledge to be gained, the resources available, and components to the skills to be learned—all while better organizing and clarifying the material while eliminating redundancy. Another modification involved gear needed for the class. Students are now required to purchase their own climbing helmets. Not only did this ensure that people would know the history of the
helmets protecting their heads, but now teams had a little more latitude in being able to spontaneously practice rappelling, for example, while out on a conditioning hike. The instructional season began with the Instructor Training Clinic, a half-day workshop that took place the weekend prior to our first lecture in early March. Attendees of the ITC consistently give the workshop high marks for its value in helping them understand different learning styles to be aware of when teaching hands-on skills to adults. Early in the planning cycle, the BCEP committee voted to formally administer a summer BCEP session. Various summer session trials have taken place over the past three summers and this transition to running the program under the auspices of the BCEP committee helps ensure continuity in our instruction. This summer’s session will run throughout June and includes 18 students. Even as the climbing season is just beginning and the summer session gets under way, the committee is beginning to plan for the 2016 season and looks forward to welcoming several new members from the recent BCEP graduates. A huge thank you to everyone who participated in making BCEP 2015 a big success—we couldn’t do it without all of you!
The Flower Finder
Identifying prominent flowers in June on the Angel’s Rest Trail by Barry Maletzky While Angel’s Rest Trail isn’t much of a conditioner for the steeper routes up the real mountains in Oregon or Washington, June finds it less crowded (relatively) than April or May. In June it still holds many blooms good to know for the steeper trials further east in the Gorge and for those in the higher mountains as well, especially on those long (and sometimes boring) approach trails. Let’s start with a newcomer, in more ways than one: Wall Lettuce has very little to do with walls (though it does adorn them in England), and may be in the lettuce genus, but frankly is fit for only the most desperate of vegetarians or those on the brink of starvation. You’ve seen Wall Lettuce a thousand times though it’s barely notable and attracts few positive adjectives. Nonetheless, it’s an invasive weed that’s taking over some of the native flora in the Gorge. A 3-4 foot tall rangy plant, it sports diminutive yellow flowers that look like miniature yellow daisies. Its main attraction, however, is that, among the almost 23,000 species in its family, the Aster, or Composite Family, it is the sole plant of which I am aware that has the exact same number of petals on each flower—five. Yes, it’s a weed, and not even an attractive one at that, but it stills amazes botanists with its consistency, if little else. Let’s concentrate on more native species that are a bit more appealing. Just as you start up the rocky openings at 250-350 feet of elevation, look for the Scarlet Columbine, especially in the junctures between woods and openings. Its name in Latin means “beautiful,” an apt moniker for this plant, with its five yellow cup-like petals guarded by five scarlet sepals that are reflexed backwards to form spurs that hold nectar for pollinating bees. At the same time, these appear to spread outward in graceful arcs.
They reminded the ancient Greeks of a quintet of doves in flight (they had quite an imagination); thus the Latin name can be translated as birds in flight. More modern observers may imagine flashing red and yellow jet fighters in a Star Wars movie. Gently turn over the one inch flowers to more fully appreciate the remarkably beautiful symmetry of their floral parts, and marvel again at how distant evolutionary events could have produced such pleasingly intricate architecture. The columbines found in Portland gardens stem in part from hybrids of these very plants combined with yellow ones farther east and the sky-blue beauties in high alpine Rocky Mountain meadows. If June is a lucky month this year, you may well find remaining Poison (or Tall) Larkspurs populating the areas before and after the bridge over Coopey Creek, a mile in. There are no finer larkspurs (Delphiniums) in our mountains. Up to 5 feet tall, and with up to 20 blue-purple blossoms arrayed one atop of the other, they cannot be mistaken for any other plant on this trip. Several may also persist farther up the trail and near the top of Angel’s Rest, as well as on the spur trail to the right just before the Angel’s rocky steps, the one that would lead you to Devil’s Rest. “Poison” is too disparaging a name for these beauties as all larkspurs are mildly toxic if eaten in huge quantities, and it’s mostly cattle that die from gorging on delphiniums, not humans. And yes, it is these very larkspurs that have formed the genetic foundation for those you see in Safeway and Whole Foods Market entrances, highly modified by humans for garden propagation. One next cannot fail to miss the Oregon Iris, beginning in the openings at around 800 feet and continuing to the very top of Angel’s Rest. These too have been
employed in hybridizing the garden irises seen all about gardens in town. These on Angel’s are garden-sized, lightly purple-towhite with some yellow mixed in. Their species name in Latin, tenax, means tough. Indeed, Native Americans used their leaves to weave all manner of baskets and fishing nets. As you begin the increasingly open switchbacks, and especially those above 1,400 feet, look for my favorite daisy: the Wooly Sunflower, also known as Oregon Sunshine. This 1-2 foot tall shrubby plant frequents rocky slopes throughout the Northwest all summer long; its simple charm is heightened by its grayish-green wooly leaves. Indeed, to me it appears like the perfect sunflower as painted by some enlightened impressionist artist who, try as he may, could not improve upon its beauty. After you scramble up the rocks to gain Angel’s stone-strewn summit, look for several specimens of the Nootka Rose on your left. Large pink blossoms rise above the thorny 3-4 inch tall shrub, though sniff as strongly as you like, no perfume can be perceived. The Nootka species is less common than the Baldhip (or Little Western) Rose, seen often in forests throughout our mountains. Bluebells (the same species as Bluebells of Scotland) are here as well, although these are native and not considered aliens. They persist as well throughout summer and even into fall. Too many other species are present on this trail to mention here and even more if you choose to proceed on to Devil’s Rest, then take the Wahkeena Loop back. But getting to know just a few of the more noteworthy ones may gain you a better appreciation of how these plants evolved and were named, plus gain you some additional cred over your botanicallychallenged hike-mates.
Background image: Poison, or Tall Larkspur. Inset: A Bracken fern fiddlehead. JUNE 2015
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by Dan Gerbus, ICS 2014–15 Coordinator
C
ongratulations to the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) class of 2014–15! I am honored to have had the opportunity to work with the students, the myriad of volunteer instructors, and office staff over the past year. I am also proud of each and every student and how far you have come. In August 41 students were admitted ICS, and through attrition and returning students from last year’s class, 40 students graduated on April 30. Over the course of eight months, students completed 14 lectures, 12 field sessions, and assisted with BCEP teams. In addition to the core class, 18 students graduated from the Sport Lead module, which is offered as an optional course to current ICS students and alumni in October. In order to execute a class of this magnitude, it took a committee and 102
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volunteer instructors who spent their free time helping the class in many capacities. Without their generosity, I would not have been able to maintain the educational standard in the class, and the students would not have had as much individual time with the instructors. Volunteers, thank you for your time, and willingness to share your experiences and expertise. We are grateful. This year we implemented a number of changes to improve the educational quality of the class and flow of the field sessions. These improvements are a continuing effort to address deficiencies identified in student feedback, and update teaching methods to improve skill retention. In short, the changes amounted to a minor change in session sequence, and adding more time to practice the skills in different settings. The weather could not have worked out better for us. Despite the low snow pack, the field sessions were a success. The Smith Rock sessions were dry. We had
white-out conditions for the snow travel session. We had actual high angle snow conditions for the high angle session. The students came together as a team rather quickly, and coordinated some impressive potluck dinners for our fall sessions. They also planned their graduation night, which was epic. The time has come where I step down as coordinator, and hand the reins over to Matt Sundling. Here’s a thank you, and good luck to Matt! I will be moving into an ICS committee role, and continue to work to improve ICS while I try to catch up on renewing my certifications required for climb leadership. Congratulations ICS 2014–15, year of the Danger Buses! I wish you safe and happy climbs. Climb On!
Clockwise, from top: A bluebird day at Smith Rock State Park. Photo: Shane Harlson. The ICS Class of 2014–15. Photo: Justin Colquhoun. Snow bollard anchor practice. Photo: Jonathon Severdia.
Bob Wilson Expedition Grants Darrell Weston acts as a “victim” during ICS avalanche safety training session. Photo: Jonathon Severdia.
Is ICS For You? by Matt Sundling, 2015–16 ICS Coordinator Did you graduate BCEP, and been out climbing hard, and can’t wait to learn more? Have you been climbing a while, and learned a lot from your friends, but know it’s time to dial in your technical skills? Have you found yourself in challenging technical terrain, then run into trouble, and not known what to do? If any of these describe you, it’s probably time to take your education to the next level. The purpose of the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) is to provide a training program to educate climbers in wide range of best practices for climbing rock and snow. It is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding learning experience. The class is designed for climbers with solid basic climbing skills, and some outdoor experience, who are ready to advanced to the next level of technical climbing. The class curriculum picks up where the BCEP class left off—but is open to any qualified climber, regardless if you’ve taken that class. The ICS curriculum is challenging—both in scale and content. It is a comprehensive course that covers a large number of technical skills, including advanced belay and rappelling techniques, movement on rock and snow, rock and snow anchors, rescue techniques, first-aid, emergency management, leadership, navigation, avalanche awareness, single and multi-pitch climbing, and high angle snow techniques. It is a committing course of over two dozen lectures and field sessions, that are spread across most of a year. Students get a substantial amount of hands-on time, with a team of experienced instructors, working in a safetyconscience environment. Learn more at IC Information Night June 22 at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. You’ll get a chance to meet the leadership team, along with instructors and former students who can share their experiences about the class. There will be demonstrations, time to mingle, and pizza! For more details, email mazamas.ics@gmail.com and review the ICS class webpage at mazamas.org.
Application Period June 1–July 4 The purpose of the Wilson Grants is to provide annual financial support to Mazama members who are organizing and/or leading expedition climbing ventures in the high or remote mountain regions of the world. The Wilson Grants are intended to stimulate, inspire, and celebrate a renewed culture of exploratory climbing within the Mazamas and to reward our most dedicated and engaged members. The Wilson Grants were established in recognition of Robert A. Wilson. Mr. Wilson joined the Mazamas in 1962, and through the Mazamas lead a long career of climbing and expedition mountaineering including trips to Annapurna 1, Gasherbrum 1, Tirich Mir, McKinley and many other mountains. Through this financial support, Mr. Wilson wishes to encourage and motivate dedicated Mazama members, volunteers and leaders to develop their expedition climbing skills and experiences. Mr. Wilson also wishes to make it possible for others to experience the joy of expedition climbing, and to promote the growth of expedition climbing for Mazamas. For 2016 expeditions, applications must be received by July 4, 2015. For details and application form, go to: mazamas.org/ resources/mazama-bob-wilson-expedition-grants/ Mazamas Brad Farra and Rebecca Schob were Bob Wilson Grant recipients in 2015. The primary goal of their expedition to Patagonia is to climb Cerro Torre with a secondary goal of Mt. Fitz Roy. Watch the Bulletin for an upcoming slide show of their trip.
Cerro Torre.
BOOK REVIEW
Mount Hood: Adventures of the Wy’east Climbers 1930–1942 Ric Conrad
Review by Ken Dubois
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mproved roads from Portland to Mt. Hood led to some serious debate among Mazamas in the late 1920s. Some accepted that the easier access would lead to a flood of budding alpinists; hitchhiking was common, and the whole adventure cost next to nothing. Others questioned the sanity and safety of untrained climbers and nascent clubs. They frowned on “outlaw ascents.” In time, however, the most audacious of the new climbing clubs would become closely connected to the Mazamas, as Ric Conrad explains in his entertaining chronicle, Mount Hood: Adventures of the Wy’east Climbers 1930-1942. The book is chock full of second-hand anecdotes (probably improved over the years), but Conrad also builds his story around hard facts: 1930s climb logs, club records of all kinds, and reports from the pages of this august journal. From its beginnings in 1930, the Wy’east Climbers was an elite organization, Conrad explains. Seven “out-of-doors men” formed the initial group and developed a constitution: Only men were allowed, and each member had to have made at least ten major alpine ascents. At the beginning, membership was capped; someone had to die for you to get in the club. The Wy’east Climbers signaled a philosophical shift as well. Prior to 1930,
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climbers trying to summit Mt. Hood had mainly used the most direct routes, Conrad says, such as Cooper Spur and the south side. No one had previously attempted Eliot Glacier Headwall, Sandy Glacier Headwall, or Yocum Ridge. The Wy’east Climbers had a different perspective. “Residents of Portland thought they were crazy,” said a Mazama quoted in Conrad’s book. “Those guys saw potential routes where the rest of us saw crumbling rock walls.” Still, the two clubs were united in their passion for climbing, and their willingness to join or lead search and rescue parties throughout the Cascades, Conrad explains. They became so closely aligned, by the mid-1930s half of the Wy’east Climbers membership were also Mazamas. The two clubs shared quarters as well. Along with countless others, they used the Timberline Cabin, a south side common-use shack, built in 1916, with wooden bunks and bedspring hammocks. In 1933, when the Forest Service decided to build a stone shelter at Crater Rock, five Mazamas did the planning and building, and the Wy’east Climbers stepped in to keep it stocked with blankets and first aid supplies. When passing climbers began to steal supplies and trash the place, Conrad tells us, the Wy’east group abandoned the project in disgust. Even a windblown pile of rocks, it seems, has its rules of decorum. Around the same time, the Wy’east
Climbers built their own cabin on the south side, and made it available to anyone in need of first aid or emergency supplies. When Timberline Lodge was completed in 1937, attracting busloads of new climbers, the Wy’east gang took it in stride. They even began to enjoy the comforts of the lodge: rock climbing on the large central fireplace, skiing off the roof, and dancing on the tables in the Blue Ox bar. Though the Wy’east Climbers would continue for many more decades, the “golden age” (as Conrad calls it) came to an abrupt end with the start of World War II. Some members were inducted and went overseas, and others turned their attention to the war effort at home. Timberline Lodge was closed; Timberline Cabin collapsed. Climbers had other things to do. Conrad’s book can’t help but be entertaining as it’s largely based on stories that mountain climbers tell. Both in person and in print, they tend to insert a quip, and Conrad has unearthed many. “Too bad the Depression is over,” a climber wrote in the summit register in 1936. “I can’t get anyone to climb with me on Mondays.” Conrad, R. Mount Hood: Adventures of the Wy’east Climbers 1930-1942. Beaverton, Oregon: Kahuma Books, 2014. Mazama Library number 367.C76.
Homeowners and Renters, Call to Save!
Robert Joy Insurance Agency rjoy@farmersagent.com ph: 503.643.9518 fax: 503.643.9519 503.684.9698
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MAZAMAS
UPCOMING OPPORTUNITIES
SMARTPHONE GPS SKILLBUILDER
LOST LAKE CHUCKWAGON WEEKEND July 24–26, 2015
Join us for the throw-back Mazama hiking event of the year! Like the good ol’ days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous old-time trails in Oregon— PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail. ITINERARY: ▶▶ Friday night: Arrive at Mazama Lodge, enjoy a delicious dinner, and meet your fellow hikers. ▶▶ Saturday: Vans take you to Timberline Lodge to start the hike. Hike westward toward Paradise Park and continue downhill toward Zigzag Mountain for lunch along Burnt Lake. After lunch, continue to the Lost Creek Campground, to find your gear (tents, sleeping bags,
etc), along with a chuckwagon dinner prepared by the Lodge grillmasters. Pack your favorite beverage to enjoy. ▶▶ Sunday: After a filling breakfast, hike as a large group starting at Top Spur, crossing Lolo Pass, and following the Bull Run area boundary to the Lost Lake general store! The Lodge vans will take you back to the Mazama Lodge for some snacks before saying “goodbye” and heading for home. DETAILS ▶▶ Total distance: Appx. 23 miles with 3,000 feet of elevation gain. ▶▶ Cost: $150 members/$180 nonmembers (includes food, lodging, transportation) ▶▶ Contact: Refer to the Mazama Lodge website, or email Rick Amodeo at ricka@ aaieng.com with questions.
NEW!
▶▶ When: Sunday, June 28, 9 a.m.–2 p.m. ▶▶ What: Are you wondering if that smart phone in your pocket can replace an expensive standalone GPS receiver? Do you think that seeing your exact location overlaid on a topo map, trail map, or satellite image might be helpful in the backcountry? (Hint - the answer is yes.) If you’d like to learn how an easy to use GPS app can turn your phone into a valuable navigation aid, then this skill builder class is for you. We’ll have a few hours of classroom instruction, and then go to a nearby Portland park to practice with some hands-on. ▶▶ Registration & Full Details: mazamas.org/education-classes/ wilderness-navigation-smartphone-gps/ ▶▶ Questions? Contact lead instructor John Godino, johngo.pdx@gmail.com
JUNE 2015
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MAZAMA LODGE
Summer at the Lodge
Summer Hours Begin June 11 and Continue through August 31 Mazama Lodge begins our summer hours on Thursday, June 11 until Monday, August 31. During this time the lodge is open seven days a week, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. During the month of June we are booked for exclusive use events on June 5, 6, 19, and 20. The rest of the month you are welcome to stop by for a meal, lodging or just to say “hello”. CHUCK WAGON WEEKEND July 25–26
We are hosting our annual Chuck Wagon weekend with hike Leader Rick Amodeo. As in years past we feature campfire cuisine throughout your hike, providing transportation and all meals. Your camping equipment is shuttled for you so all you need is your daypack. The two day trip is 22 miles from Timberline Lodge to Lost Lake. Last year when we arrived at Lost Lake members of the hike party enjoyed a refreshing swim at Lost Lake and a cold beverage at the Lost Lake General Store. A great way to end the weekend.
VON TRAPP SINGERS & DINNER August 25, 6:30 p.m.
I appreciate all the suggestions I have received over the years, including one from member David Anderson. He suggested we invite the Von Trapps to perform at the lodge. I filed that idea as “unlikely.” After he sent me to their website and I realized they have been guests on the Oprah Show, performed with the National Symphony at the Kennedy Center, toured with Pink Martini, and traveled throughout Europe and Asia, I even moved it to “very unlikely.” But after talking with David and learning that the great grand children of Captain and Maria Von Trapp had moved to Portland to do some recording with Pink Martini I thought I would call their agent. I explained that Mazama Lodge is nothing like the Kennedy Center but we do have some great views. Their agent said she would talk with the Von Trapps. It turns out Sophia Von Trapp and her siblings enjoy camping and recently started climbing over at Smith Rock and
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.
INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL: Looking for 2 additional people for Nepal Annapurna Base Camp, 3 more people for September Kilimanjaro trip, and 1 more person for October Kilimanjaro trip. donovan@ embarkadventures.com Used, rare, collectible mountaineering books FOR SALE. For current 600 item list EMAIL order@jpmountainbooks.com. For wants & old issues of Mazama & AAJ CALL 503-246-2752. Informative website jpmountainbooks.com EARN 9% FIXED INTEREST SECURED BY REAL ESTATE. Quartercentury history of payments on-time every time. Sándor Lau, Stewardship Capital. 541-514-1151. TheGoodStewards.com HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
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MAZAMAS
Mariana Kearney and Robert Rodgers share a photo taken by Mariana’s late husband, Ty, during the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980.
would love to pitch a tent up at Mazama Lodge. When the Von Trapps first moved to Portland, they wanted get acquainted with Portlanders so they invited guests over once a week (when not touring) for some chicken schnitzel. In keeping with tradition we are having a chicken schnitzel dinner prior to the concert at 6:30 p.m., with the concert beginning at 7:45 p.m. Dinner and concert is $36. The Von Trapp Singers are siblings Sofia (26) Melanie (24), Amanda (23) and August (20) and will be performing on Tuesday, August 25 at Mazama Lodge.
Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential.
Hike Leader Appreciation Night Whether you are a life-long Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. Are you ready to join? Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country here: mazamas.org/join
This guy doesn’t have too much time left. Photo: Michael Zasadzien
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This MAGAZINE , filled with activities events, and articles delivered to your door monthly.
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DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. Icebreaker, Mountain Hardwear, The Mountain Shop, Mountaineers Books, Next Adventure, Oregon Mountain Community, Portland Rock Gym, Prana Portland, Redpoint Climber’s Supply, Rock & Ice Magazine, Sharp End Books, Trail Butter, US Outdoor Store
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Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood along with great member rates.
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INFORMATION Access to special member pages on the Mazama website.
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AND MORE!
by Terry Lawson On May 8 the Trail Trips Committee (TTC) hosted its annual Hike Leader Appreciation Night (HLAN), which recognizes and honors the team of hike leaders who have led rambles, hikes, backpacks, snowshoes and trail tending trips. TTC Co-chairs Regis Krug and Terry Lawson, along with committee members Mitch Auerbach, Marilyn Zigler, Meg Linza, Brett Nair, Barry O’Mahony, Leslie Shotola, and Adonay Solleiro organize and coordinate these activities. Regular TTC programs include Round the Mountain, organized in 2014 and 2015 by Rex Breunsbach and Marilyn Zigler; Lost Lake Chuckwagon, led by Rick Amadeo and Meg Linza; Used Equipment Sale (UES), led by Meg Linza with a large supporting cast of Mazama volunteers; and HLAN, organized by Terry Lawson and Marilyn Zigler, with Bob Smith providing food. Over the past year (Apr 2014-Mar 2015), there were 5,546 ramblers and 2,949 hikers on 870 hikes and rambles led by 68 leaders, including 11 new leaders. One of the most unique hike offerings was the week long series that Rex Breunsbach organized based in Carson, Washington where hikers could camp or enjoy comfortable lodging for varying periods and explore the Mount St. Helens area. Look for a similar series Rex is organizing this July. Both Bob Smith and Rex Breunsbach received special recognition for their volunteer contributions. Bob led 54 rambles, 16 hikes, 2 outings, provided food for UES and HLAN and organized the REI-based Rambles Program each week. Rex has been by far the most prolific hike leader this year, leading 54 hikes including the Mount St. Helens series, 15 rambles, an outing, and was a co-chair of TTC last year. Our speaker was Darryl Lloyd, who talked about hikes and backpacks on Mt. Adams. Darryl is a cofounder and current board member of Friends of Mt. Adams. He first summited Mt. Adams at age 10 and is still avidly hiking and climbing it 60 years later. He is a professional photographer and his photographs illustrated his discussion of nine of his favorite hikes and backpacks on Mt. Adams. HLAN concluded with a raffle of merchandise contributed by local outdoor stores and individual hike leaders. Columbia Sportswear provided one day passes to its Employee Store to all leaders. Raffle prizes were provided by Arc’teryx, Columbia Sportswear, Icebreaker, Montbell, Next Adventure, Patagonia, The North Face, Multnomah Falls Lodge, Hillcrest Ski and Sports, and Otto’s Ski Shop, as well as leaders Regis Krug, Jim Selby, Terry Lawson, Ray Sheldon, Sheri Alice Smith, and Susan Koch and fellow Mazama William Sullivan. New hike leaders are always needed—if you would like to become one and participate in next year’s HLAN, contact Regis Krug or Terry Lawson.
JUNE 2015
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SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS March 26, Telescope Peak, Mahogany Flat Trail. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Jay Avery. Amad Doratotaj, Leora Gregory, Lesley Langen, Brett Nair May 1, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Justin Brady, Asst: Ally Imbody. Larry Beck, Lisa Brady, Thomas Buttrick, Ralph Daub, Valerie Uskoski May 2, Dragontail, Triple Couloirs. Leader: Rebecca Schob, Asst: Wim Aarts. Jeremy Cogdill, Stephanie Spence May 2, Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Keith Dechant. Michael Ard, Carey Bowers, Ralph Oyler, Kaitlin Rupert May 3, Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows. Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Rae Lantsberger. Venessa Barrett, Eric Dattoli, Stacey Reding, Will Schlosser, Rohan Sharma, Daksha Sharma May 3, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek— Worm Flows. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Marty Gillen. Gowri Chitloor Parthasarathy, Marie Dion, Tammie Gillen, Richard Sandefur May 4, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek— Worm Flows. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Jan Buschman. John Bodley, Elly Branch
May 4, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Lisa Brady, Asst: Mike Leonard Maguire. Eddie Ferrer, Ghislain Gressard, Chris Hicks, Alex Hult, Chris Jensen, Jeff Shuman, Scott Stevenson May 8, Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Greg Willmarth, Asst: Jennifer Van Houten. Darren Aboulafia, Bri Berglund, Mairi Chisholm, Melissa Guarin, Adam Hunter, Michael Meronek, Camille Peterson, Trevis Peterson, Adam Russell, Debra Sankovitz May 10, Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge. Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Mike Levis. Larry Buzan, Noelle Price, Kristofel Simbajon, Eben Travis May 11, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek— Worm Flows. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Rae Lantsberger. Eric Dattoli, Jeffery Gordon, Alyssa Hursh, Rachel Lindsay, Karin Masunari, Calvin McDonald, Danielle Olsztyn, Rob Olsztyn, Guy Wettstein, Samuel Zeigler
May 16, Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard. Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst: Barbara Weiss. Brian Bates, Tom Davidson, Amad Doraroraj, Ardel Frick, Sarah Holmes, Sandee Myers, Jonathan Myers, Chaitanya Sathe
May 15, Mt. Hood,Old Chute. Leader: Rebecca Schob, Asst: Tim Scott. Richard Burton, Daphna Kadim, Iddo Kadim, Steve Loos, Kevin Lyons, John McNulty, Greg Simons, Vivek Tiwari
Top: Left to right—Rebecca Schob, Stephanie Spence, and Jeremy Cogdill finishing out the Triple Couloirs route on Dragontail Peak. Photo: Wim Aarts. Right: Ted Slupesky belays Gary Ballou on lead on Lion’s Jaw at Smith Rock State Park. Photo: Justin Brady.
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WHAT’S MISSING FROM THIS PICTURE? (besides the top of the mountain.)
ANSWER: YOU Get in the picture! Pick up MAP 332S – Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument, brand new for 2015. Waterproof, tear resistant, ultralight, solar powered, and just mapped by Green Trails boots on the ground crews in 2014. Available at select bookstores and all the best outdoor stores.
Sándor Lau
Hike Leader Profile ▶▶ Residence: Eugene. Coming to PDX soon to lead more Mazamas adventures! Who needs a roommate? ▶▶ Hometown: Elizabeth, Colorado ▶▶ Previous homes: Auckland, New Zealand; Santiago de Compostela, Spain; Strasbourg, France; Pingtung, Taiwan; Guadalajara, Mexico. ▶▶ When and how did you become involved with Mazamas: I came to the 20s & 30s Winter Weekend in January 2015 and found my people! In a week I was a Mazama member and giving my first evening travel program talk. (Next one is Dec. 9. Mark your calendars.) I became a hike leader as soon as I could schedule a first aid class. ▶▶ Favorite climbs/hikes: South Sister; Mt. Ngauruhoe, New Zealand; Camino de Santiago, Spain; Redwoods; Iron Mountain for wildflowers; Black Forest, Germany; Auckland to Cape Reinga New Zealand that I hiked for my film, Sándor’s New Zealand Trail. ▶▶ Coming attractions to lead: Hells Canyon, Jefferson Park, Opal Creek (rock slide!), shellfishing on the Oregon Coast, mushrooming. ▶▶ Don’t leave home without: My peeps, my camera, and Alltrails app.
Sándor Lau at Green Lakes in early May 2015.
▶▶ Mission statement: To share great adventures with my seven billion closest friends. ▶▶ Guiding philosophies: Choose love over fear. Wait for the second marshmallow. ▶▶ Favorite leader treat: You get five points for dark chocolate, ten if it has sea salt and almonds. ▶▶ Favorite books: The Four Agreements by Don Miguel Ruiz, Outliers by Malcolm Gladwell. ▶▶ Favorite music: NPR and nonfiction audiobooks. ▶▶ Favorite brew: Bourbon barrel porter. ▶▶ Favorite quote: The center of the universe is in the middle of nowhere. ▶▶ Tagline: The Eagle Scout and Fulbright Scholar your mother warned you about. ▶▶ Other tagline: The only ChineseHungarian-American-New Zealander.
▶▶ What would you do with $1 million?: Walk the Oregon Trail without dying of dysentery to write a book and make a TV series. ▶▶ Hobbies: Writing first book, yoga, financial coaching, bone carving, photography, Airbnb hosting, public speaking, grilling, playing with my nephews. ▶▶ Occupation: Chief Inspiration Officer. Real estate investor and investment manager. Recovering writer, filmmaker, and TV reporter threatening to relapse at any time. ▶▶ How to pronounce my name: SHAWN-door. Like SHAWN-door lord of Gondor. ▶▶ How to find me: facebook.com/ sandorlau, youtube.com/sandorlau
Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes
Your Mazama Realtor 20
MAZAMAS
Features: 4.5 miles to Smith Rock State Park Soaking hot tub Nearby dining and shopping
Learn more: vrbo.com/437418 Area for sorting/inspecting climbing gear Fantastic views; quiet neighborhood Local owners (hosts)
MAZAMA FAMILIES
Get Your Kids Outside! Mazama Families enjoys hiking, snow camping, snow skills practice and more in May. April and early May was a great time for Mazama Families activities. Taking advantage of a recent snow all, the Families Mountaineering 101 class had a wonderful snow camping session on the flanks of Mt. Hood, followed by a snow session in beautiful stryofoam snow—perfect for practicing all of our snow skills: ascending and descending slopes, rope team travel, and building and rappelling from bollard anchors. More than 30 kids and their parents attended the recent Families Climb Night at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Some were putting on a harness for the first time, some honing their basic rocks skills acquired through their nine months in FM101, and others playing on the train set. It is truly a wonderful sight to see so many kids belaying others kids with a high degree of skill and confidence. Look for more Families Climb Nights to be added to the schedule in a couple of months. Bob Murphy led a Dog Mountain hike with acres and acres of wild flowers in bloom. The team—with five kids— summited in just over three hours! The views that day were clear as a bell. Eric Einspruch’s hike of Dry Creek Falls was filled to capacity,
Shane Kennedy became a new families hike leader leading a Enjoying a rest at Balch Creek. Photo: Bob Murphy wonderful toddler hike along the URBAN TRAM CONDITIONING HIKE Balch Creek to the stone remnants of the Saturday, July 11 Balch Homestead. Enjoy this in-city hike up Marquam Hill, A FEW UPCOMING EVENTS: stopping for hot chocolate/treats at the top of the OHSU Tram. We will ride the tram WAHCLELLA FALLS HIKE back down (rides down are free!) Saturday, June 13 3RD ANNUAL FAMILIES SMITH ROCK WEEKEND Called a “must-do, easy Gorge hike,” this Friday–Saturday, October 9–11 is a great introduction to the area, and it includes a beautiful waterfall. No cliffs, but Group car camping, campfires, corn there are steep drop-offs meriting attention maze, hikes, bountiful potlucks, and a bit to the little ones. of climbing! To learn more about these and other ROOSTER ROCK FAMILIES CLIMB & BBQ activities, and ti register, please visit Saturday, June 20 mazamafamilies.org . To join our email list There will be staggered start times for to receive announcements of new Families families to minimize waiting at the bottom events and reminders of upcoming of the route, and there will be a potluck activities, please drop us a line at families@ BBQ in the afternoon to celebrate. mazamas.org.
Families Mountaineering 101: Info Night, June 15 Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) is a program designed to train adult and youth climbers in entry level rock and snow climbing skills. It is also an incredible opportunity to get your entire family involved
with alpine activities. Join us for FM101 Information Night at 6:30 p.m. on June 15 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The class coordinators will provide prospective students with a general overview of the class and be able to provide
everyone with a finalized schedule for the 2015-16 program. Sign-ups will be open in late June, but people who attend this information night will also get special access to sign up sooner. For more information about this class, visit fm101.org.
JUNE 2015
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20S & 30S
Jump into June with the 20s & 30s Mazamas Join the fun—get involved today!
Check our website and Meetup page often, since activities are frequently posted throughout the month. We look forward to seeing you out there! VOLUNTEER Would you like to get more involved with the 20s & 30s Mazamas? We are looking for volunteers! We invite everyone to come join our monthly committee meeting on June 1 at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC). We will review the past month’s activities and plan the future month. We love guests at our meetings and we often go out for libations afterwards at the nearby Horse Brass. WE ARE ALSO LOOKING FOR CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS AND HIKE LEADERS: Climb Night Hosts Indoor rock climbing is held oncea-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and nonmembers, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. Hike Leaders Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running! Becoming an activity leader takes just a few steps—become a Mazamas member, lead a provisional activity, and get first aid certified. BACKPACKING TRIP: BULL OF THE WOODS WILDERNESS FRIDAY, JUNE 5–SUNDAY, JUNE 7
With the low snowpack, it’s time for an early-season backpacking trip to one of the most rugged places in the Oregon Cascades! We’ll start out following the Elk
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Lake Creek Trail, and enjoy a leisurely day hiking up gorgeous Elk Lake Creek, setting up camp at Battle Creek Camp. On Saturday we’ll explore a ridgetop, Big Slide Mountain, and possibly Lake Lenore before camping at Big Slide Lake. We’ll finish off the weekend at Welcome Lakes and Elk Lake Creek. Plan on 5–7 miles each day, plus side trips. This is a beautiful area but very rugged—plan on unbridged stream crossings, downed trees, faint trails, and steep uphills and downhills. This is not a good trip for newcomers to backpacking. Hike: 21 miles, 4,000 feet elevation gain. Drive: 140 miles round-trip. Limited to 8 participants–wilderness; contact leader to sign up. Leader: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail.com). Meetup details to be shared only with participants. PUB NIGHT: APEX MONDAY, JUNE 15
Join the 20s & 30s Mazamas the third Monday of the month at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! This month we’ll be at Apex, 1216 SE Division. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages! This is also a great time to find out what we’re up to, plan your next adventure, and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. Bring your stories and photos from your recent adventures; extra points for pics from Mazama events. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe! BACKPACKING TRIP: OLD CASCADES LOOP Friday, July 3–Sunday, July 5
With campgrounds and trails busy over the holiday weekend, it’s an excellent
20s & 30s group enjoying a hike to Flag Point. Photo: Matt Reeder
time to check out one of the least-known and quietest places in Western Oregon. Over three days we’ll pass through grove after grove of ancient forest, climb over wildflower-covered ridges and descend down into remote, solitary canyons. This is not a beginner backpacking trip as the terrain is rough, the trails infrequently maintained ,and the elevation gain high. If you can, bring some hedge clippers and a small saw—this area does not get a lot of trail maintenance. Members $10, nonmembers $20. Limited to 8 participants. Meetup details to be shared only with those signed up. Leader: Matt Reeder, mareede@gmail.com; email leader to sign up. CLIMB NIGHTS ClubSport ▶▶ Address: 18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Rd, Tigard ▶▶ When: 1st Monday of the month, 6:3010 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $12/person, kids under 18 climb for $10; harness for $5, rock shoes for $6, or $9 for both. Planet Granite ▶▶ Address: 1405 NW 14th Ave ▶▶ When: Third Wednesday of the month, 6:30 - 10 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $18/person; harness and shoe rental available at additional cost.
CLASSIC MAZAMAS
Are you Ready for a Picnic? For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS ▶▶ Lanning Russell, 503-7751164, lanning16@gmail.com (co-chair) ▶▶ Rose Marie Gilbert, 503762-2357, gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net (co-chair) ▶▶ Kate Evans, 503-635-6540, kateevans97@gmail.com (EC Liaison) ▶▶ Main email: classics@ mazamas.org. LEADING EVENTS IN JULY If you are interested in leading an event in June, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert or Lanning Russell by June 12. HIKE: TOM, DICK AND HARRY MOUNTAIN Monday, June 1
If interested, email David at David.R.Christopher@gmail.com. CATHERINE CREEK ARCH LOOP Thursday, June 11
This 3.5-mile leisurely loop trail has an elevation gain of 500 ft. and is classified as easy to moderately easy. For those who want to hike a little farther, we may decide to stroll the 1.4mile relatively flat paved trail after returning to the parking area. Carpool from the MMC at 8:30 am. Eat your lunch at an overlook with views of Mt. Hood and the Columbia River Gorge. Contact leader, Hal Howard, at 503-293-1528 or at commerce@ thehowards3.net
HIKE: ELK MOUNTAIN/GNARL RIDGE Monday, June 15
WALK: LADD’S ADDITION Thursday, July 23
If interested, email David at David.R.Christopher@gmail.com.
A 2.5 mile walk through the historic Ladd’s Addition in Southeast Portland. There are a variety of interesting homes, the famous Rose Garden in the Circle and Square, and a unique hardware store without a parking lot. The Clinton area offers many restaurant alternatives. More details in the July Bulletin. Meet at 8:30 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. Leader: Rose Marie Gilbert, 503-762-2357.
ANNUAL POTLUCK PICNIC AT DICK & JANE MILLER’S HOUSE Saturday, July 4
You are invited! If you’ve never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad, or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided. Also provided will be plates, cups, forks, knives and spoons. Plan to arrive at 12:30 p.m. and eat at 1 p.m. Dick and Jane are at 17745 SW Cooper Mtn. Lane, Beaverton. Coming from the east, take Hwy. 26 to 217. Go south on 217 to the Scholls Ferry Rd. exit across from Washington Square. Take a right onto Scholls Ferry Road and go west to SW 175th Avenue. Turn right and go up the hill ¾ mile to Cooper Mtn. Lan on the left. This is on a curve with limited sight distance, so use caution making the left turn onto Cooper Mtn. Lane. Then follow the Miller signs and orange traffic cones to the Miller driveway. If you have any questions about the picnic, call Dick or Jane at 503-590-3598. Mark your calendar! See you there.
NORTH COAST CLASSIC HIKER GETAWAY August 10–14
Five days of relaxed-pace hiking in the north coast area, including planned hikes of Neahkanie Mt., Tillamook Head, Fort to Sea, Astoria River Walk, and Saddle Mt. There will be no organized, in-town meeting, but we will meet at the trailhead for each hike. Hikes will be listed in the Bulletin under Trail Trips. For those who want to stay in the area, Fort Stevens State Park will be the leader’s base. It is a popular campground; early reservations are recommended. For more info, contact Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@pacifier.com. HIKING: THE DRAGON KINGDOM—WEST Oct. 2017
15 days of hiking in Bhutan. For more info contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@gmail.com.
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MEMBERSHIP REPORT
2015 Research Grants by Tom Bennett & Molly Schmitz, Mazama Research Committee Co-chairs The Research Committee received a total of 25 proposals— four standard grants, 19 graduate student grants, one undergraduate student grant, and one youth grant—for the 2015 grant cycle and the Committee voted to recommend funding six (24 percent). The total dollar amount awarded this year, was just under $15,000. ▶▶ Dr. David Wallin, Western Washington University, Evaluation of Mountain Goat Population Augmentation Scenarios in the Washington Cascades ▶▶ Eddy Cartaya, National Speleological Society/Oregon High Desert Grotto, The Mount Rainier Fumarole Cave Project ▶▶ Trevor Bloom, Western Washington University, Global Warming on Fire: Potential Consequences of Heightened Fire Activity on the Future of High Elevation Vegetation ▶▶ Barbara Gass, University of British Columbia, Pining for Pines: Can Needle Traits Help Conserve High Elevation Ecosystems? ▶▶ Carly Wickhem, Central Washington University, Testing forage selection of the American pika (Ochotona princeps) to advise plant restoration plans for connectivity corridors in the Washington Cascades ▶▶ Rachel Wilson, University of British Columbia, Are Traits Predictive of Range Shifts of Plants in the North Cascades?
Welcome New Mazamas! Melissa Aerne—Mt. Adams David Alt—Whirlwind Peak Neal Bridgnell—Mt. Hood Jennifer Cox—Mt. St. Helens Claire Duggar—South Sister David Gast—Mt. Adams Paxton Gehling—Mt. St. Helens Melissa Guajardo—South Sister Brian Jones—Kilimanjaro Ron Kinder—Mt. St. Helens Lisa Kosher—Mt. St. Helens
New
21
Reinstated
7
Heather Laptalo—Mt. St. Helens Teri Mandel—South Sister Taylor Nieman—Mt. St. Helens Michael Overstreet—Mt. Rainier Slone Pearson—Mt. Hood Max Ramos—Mt. St. Helens Elizabeth Riley-Hartford—Mt. St. Helens Partick Sweeney—Kilimanjaro Laura Westmeyer—South Sister Timothy Yeghian-Ahern—Mt. Hood
Deceased
0
Total Membership Apr. 30, 2014
3,264
Apr. 30, 2015
3,356
Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
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MAZAMAS
New member Neal Bridgnell giving a shout out to his mom from the summit of Mt. Hood.
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ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC
Go Exploring in 2015! Enjoy affordable adventure travel with qualified trip leaders this summer. HIKING NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDLAND July 22–Aug. 2: Full—Waiting List
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
HOOD TO JEFFERSON PCT BACKPACK July 10–15
Get full details online—mazamas. org/activities-events/outings. Backpack the spectacular Pacific Crest Trail from Timberline Lodge to Mt. Jefferson. Lakes, forest, and countless scenic views await you on this comfortably-paced trip.
CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING July 11–27
Get full details online—mazamas.org/ activities-events/outings. Nestled near the border of Switzerland, Italy, and France, lies the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix, France. We’ll be there during the peak alpine climbing season. This will be a strenuous outing with daily climbing opportunities. .
CANADIAN ROCKIES HIKING AND CLIMBING Aug. 8–22
Join us on a 14-day camping, hiking, backpacking, and climbing outing to the Canadian Rockies. We will visit Banff, Jasper, and Mt. Assiniboine Parks. We will start in Banff with four days of scenic hiking around Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and the mountains above the town itself. We may do some easy scramble peaks. The group will car camp in one of Banff National Park’s campgrounds. Next, we explore Mt. Assiniboine Provincial Park, south of Banff, for five days. We will backpack 17 miles into lovely Lake Magog, then day hike beneath Matterhorn-like Mt. Assiniboine in verdant flower-filled meadows. Depending on availability, we may be able to stay at primitive cabins or otherwise tent camp.
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Next we travel north on the Ice Fields Parkway to Mt. Athabasca. We have the option to climb this via a B-level glacier route. Optionally, there is day hiking in the area for those not wanting to climb. We move farther to Jasper National Park for two more days of day hikes. Participants should be able to carry a backpack with five day’s food and all gear. Those climbing Mt. Athabasca should have at least BCEP or ICS level training and have climbed Mt. Hood or similar glaciated peaks. Costs: Estimated $410 to $510 for group size of 6–12 (including leaders). Camping and Mazama fees included. Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs. Fees in excess of actual campsites’ cost will be refunded. A $100 deposit is due June 15, 2015. For more information, contact leader Bob Breivogel: breivog@teleport.com.
OREGON COAST HIKING Aug. 10–16
Get full details online—mazamas. org/activities-events/outings. Based out of South Beach State Park, we will hike approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Lincoln Beach. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Other hikes in the area may also be offered. Hikers wanting a break can also visit local attractions such as the Oregon Coast Aquarium. A $100 deposit is required with sign-up by July 15, 2015. (Participants should make site reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at South Beach SP.) Contact leader Joe Whittington, joewhittington@ gmail.com , or assistant leader Skip Smith, bs_as3457@yahoo.com, for more details.
JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK
Aug. 28–Sep. 10: Full—Alternates Only Get full details online—mazamas.org/ activities-events/outings.
TECHNICAL SLOT CANYONEERING Oct. 13–18
Explore hidden and mystical worlds of slot canyon in remote deserts of Southern Utah. During six days the group will take on several technical and challenging routes in areas around Lake Powell, San Rafael Swell, Robber Roost and Canyon Land National Park. Desert navigation and skills in technical canyoneering will take you to amazing slot canyons to experience some fascinating rock formations in intriguing ambient light. No prior experience in canyoneering is required but participants should be skilled 5.7 climbers who can use anchors and set up their own rappels. This outing is for those who can endure scrambling, climbing, and squeezing through very narrow, tight, and dark terrain for an extended time. Outing cost is estimated to be around $400 which includes transportation from Salt Lake City airport to canyon and all Mazama fees (not including airfare to Salt Lake City and meals). Lodging will be at primitive campsites at BLM lands in Utah’s deserts. A deposit of $100 is required upon acceptance of application. Leaders: Vaqas Malik, vaqas.malik@yahoo. com, Alexander Smirnov, alexander.smirnov@ gmail.com,
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers— seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club— americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”
MAZAMA AFFILIATE OUTING ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015
This will be a 19-day trip, fully supported by local guides and porters, with 13 days of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary, the very heart of the amazing Annapurna Massif, home to more than 30 individual peaks, some over 26,000 ft. in elevation. We will visit numerous Garung villages along the way and stay overnight at two of the massif ’s many climbing base camps, including Machhapuchhre (summit elevation 22,943 ft.) at 12,139 ft. and Annapurna South (summit elevation 23,684 ft.) at 13,550 ft. The remaining days will be available to explore on our own in exotic and chaotic Kathmandu and the charming, lakeside city of Pokhara—the two largest population centers in Nepal. The cost is $2,995. This is a chance to visit one of the highest and densest concentrations of mountain peaks anywhere in the world. This is a true adventure travel bargain. Led by Mazama Jim Ronning.
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TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE
Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open
to members and non-members alike. Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 503819-9250 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, log on to https:// mazamas2.org. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR NEW HIKES & UPDATES Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas. org/activities-events/ hike-schedule/ for updates! 20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas. org/activitiesevents/20sand30s MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS MEETUP Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips has a number of hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at meetup. com/mazama-hiking/.
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HK B2.5 Jun 03 (Wed) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Wilderness—Limit 12. Midweek hike up Eagle Creek should be less crowded. Lots of photo opportunities. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH MMC 9 a.m. HK C2 Jun 05 (Fri) Surveyor Ridge Trail. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Surveyor Ridge forms the east side of the Hood River Valley and is the eastern slope of the Cascades. The hike includes great views of Mt Hood, Mt St Helens, Mt Rainier & the Rim Rock viewpoint as well as great spring wildflower displays including Bald Butte and the Hood River orchards below. This will be an exploratory hike. We will shuttle cars. 11.7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 186 miles TH MMC 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Jun 06 (Sat) Paradise Park Loop from Timberline Lodge. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Start at Timberline Lodge, follow the Timberline Trail west, cross Zig Zag Canyon and work our way to Paradise Park. Continue on to Split Rock for lunch. Continue on the Paradise loop trail, completing the loop before heading back to Timberline. Enjoy early flowers and the stunning view of Mt. Hood from high on her slopes. Plan on a full day! Contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com to register your spot. 12.1 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 112 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Jun 06 (Sat) WahkeenaMultnomah Creeks Loop. Susan Koch 971-678-3446. Great waterfall hike. Poles recommended. 5.4 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Jun 06 (Sat) Hardy– Mt. Hamilton. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Third annual birthday bash for multiple participants. Up the panoramic West Hardy Ridge to Phlox Point for lunch. Then down the East Ridge and up Don’s Cutoff to summit Mt. Hamilton. Discover Pass needed for drivers. 14 miles 3,400 ft. Dr. 93 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Jun 07 (Sun) Greenleaf Overlook. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@ gmail.com. We hike on the PCT past scenic Gillette Lake to an overlook of the gorge. 7.6 miles 1400 ft. Dr. 80 Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU
HK B1.5 Jun 07 (Sun) WahkeenaAngels Rest. Ursula Edlund ursedl123@ gmail.com. We pass on the way up the Fairy Falls, but soon we take a walk in the woods, away from the crowd over to Angel’s Rest and back again. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Jun 07 (Sun) ACT Aldrich, Cedar, Table. Mark Fowler markf@ pacifier.com. We’ll warm up on Aldrich Butte (1,041 ft.) then move on to Cedar Mountain (1,686 ft.) and then up Table Mountain (3,417 ft.). Plan on a full day of fun. Some off trail. Contact leader if questions. 14 miles 4,500 ft ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 7 a.m. HK A2 Jun 10 (Wed) Mitchell Point/ Wygant Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. We will head up to Mitchell Point for the great view, then out along the Wygant Peak trail and back to the cars. 5.4 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 110 MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Jun 13 (Sat) Heritage Trees #2, Ladd’s Addition. Tom Guyot 503761-9519. This moderately paced urban hike focuses on the Heritage trees in and east of Ladd’s Addition. We will see and learn about 13 species of beautiful trees protected by the city. We’ll also see a uniquely Portland feature: eight small cast bronze sculptures distributed along Division street. Dog friendly activity. Park on the streets leading to the Circle in the center of Ladd’s Addition and meet in front of the coffee shop at the SE edge of the circle. 5 miles 175 ft. Dr. 0 9 a.m. MU HK C2 Jun 13 (Sat) Yocum Ridge. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness— Limit 12. Hike past Ramona Falls then continue going uphill. At the top is a view of the start of Sandy River and Mt. Hood. Call for a spot; at 6:50 a.m. spot will open up. Great, long day. 17.4 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 7 a.m. HK A2 Jun 14 (Sun) McIntyre Ridge/ Wildcat Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Should see some rhodys and views of Mt. Hood on this great hike in the area above the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness. 7.5 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 95 Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m. HK B2 Jun 14 (Sun) East Zig Zag Mountain (Burnt Lake). Mitch Auerbach 503-505-2160 . Wilderness— Limit 12. An excellent early summer hike. Sure to be full of wild flowers, plus
excellent views from the top of the ridge. Optional swim in Burnt Lake on the way back. 8.4 miles 2,271 ft. Dr. 96 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK C1.5 Jun 14 (Sun) Dome Rock. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike to the top of a former lookout site on the west side of Mt. Jefferson. Excellent conditioning hike. Ice cream in Detroit if we get down fast enough. Leader is driving from Corvallis, call to arrange alternate carpool from town. 10.6 miles 3,270 ft. Dr. 164 Tualatin (Durham) Park&Ride 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Jun 17 (Wed) PCT Sedum Ridge—Seldom Used Trail Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@ teleport.com. Car shuttle. We will head up to Sedum ridge on the PCT then take a seldom-used trail down to the cars. 10.7 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 120 MMC 8 a.m. HK C2 Jun 19 (Fri) Huckleberry Mt. (Boulder Ridge). Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness—Limit 12. A strenuous ascent rewards you with views of the Mts. Jefferson, Hood and St. Helens, not to mention the lower ridges of the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness at the summit. Once you’ve hiked this trail you’ll want to go back. 10.6 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 72 MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Jun 20 (Sat) Tamanawas Falls (Sherwood CG). Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Tamanawas Falls forms a broad curtain where Cold Spring Creek thunders over a 150 foot lava cliff near the eastern base of Mt. Hood. After crossing a creek, the trail ambles upstream. Beyond a rock fall, the trail enters forest, and soon arrives at a fine view upstream to Tamanawas Falls at the 2 mile mark. 6.5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK A2 Jun 20 (Sat) Moulton Falls. Carolyn Eckel 503-251-5939. A pleasant forested trail along the East Fork of the Lewis River, .8 mi. pavement and the remainder gravel. 6 miles 200 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Jun 20 (Sat) McNeil Point (Top Spur to Tie-In). Dan Smith 503-4088923. Wilderness—Limit 12. Walk up to Top Spur, cross over a couple streams, then up and over to McNeil Point. May hike higher if group is interested. Call to save a spot; will open up if you are not there by 6:50 a.m. 9 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 7 a.m.
STREET RAMBLES
Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain
Tuesday and Thursday Rambles
Mt. Tabor Ramble Eastside
JUNE DATES ▶▶ Tuesdays: June 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 ▶▶ Thursdays: June 4, 11, 18, 25
Walk at a brisk pace from the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) to the top of Mt. Tabor. Then spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs climbing up and down to get fit for climbs/hiking this spring/summer. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk; bring cash if interested in grabbing a quick bite. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd & Stark) 6 p.m. Leader: Meg Linza, 503-502-8782. $2 (arrive a little early to sign in). Dates: June 3, 10, 17, 24
Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.
Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.
Regis Krug, Justin Dewan and Larry Solomon on a Mazama backpaking trip to Palmateer Point. Damp, but not deterred! Photo: Regis Krug HK A1.5 Jun 21 (Sun) Lewis River Falls. Kent Meyer 360-5740784. Hike on a good trail to three significant falls on this clear river. Enjoy some large old growth trees. 5.4 miles 500 ft. Dr. 172 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Jun 21 (Sun) Silver Star Mountain (via Ed’s Trail). Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Wonderful hike with an alpine character. Wildflowers should be in good condition with lots of photo opportunities. 8.7 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 70 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK C2 Jun 24 (Wed) Table Mt. Loop. Kate Evans 503-635-6540. We’ll go up Heartbreak and down the West Ridge on this great conditioning hike. Remember it costs $5 per car at the Bonneville Hot Springs trailhead. 10 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Jun 27 (Sat) Heritage Trees #3, Irvington. Tom Guyot 503761-9519. Hike through the historic Irvington neighborhood and learn about its beautiful Heritage Trees. Our pace will be moderate and we’ll stop to see 27 special trees from 16
species. We’ll also enjoy the elegant Irvington area, including stops at a home built for an Oregon governor and later U.S. Senator, along with a a ceramic dragon. This is a dog friendly hike. Meet at the corner of NE Cook and NE 7th, just south of Irving Park; park on nearby side streets. 3.5 miles 150 ft. Dr. 0 9 a.m. MU HK A2 Jun 27 (Sat) Lava Canyon. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Lava Canyon starts at Smith Creek and ascends to The Ship up a 12-foot ladder with views. Then up a 40-foot ladder and on to a suspension bridge and the upper canyon. 6 miles 1,280 ft. Dr. 186 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Jun 27 (Sat) Multnomah Falls—Devils Rest—Wahkeena Falls. Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@mentor.com. We’ll begin at Multnomah Falls heading up Multnomah Creek passing Weisendanger, Ecola, and several more waterfalls. We’ll cross over the ridge and climb to Devils Rest, then down to Fairy Falls and Wahkeena Falls, returning to Multnomah Falls. 9 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 42 Gateway TC 7:30 a.m. MU
HK C2.5 Jun 27 (Sat) Elk-Kings Traverse. Barry O’Mahony barry. coyotecreekranch@gmail.com. A Coast Range Classic. Up Elk Mountain and down Kings. Includes quite a bit of scrambling. We may do a car shuttle if the group is large enough. 11 miles 4,600 ft. Dr. 66 Jim’s Supermarket parking lot, Banks, OR. 8 a.m. HK A2 Jun 28 (Sun) Larch Mountain Crater. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. We explore the regions near Larch Mountain without the climb from Multnomah Lodge and get a great view (if it is clear) from Sherrard Point. 6.4 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 58 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK C2 Jun 28 (Sun) Soda Peaks Lake via Trapper Creek. Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Unrelenting ascent from old growth forest to views of four Cascade volcanoes, with lunch at Soda Peaks Lake. The Trapper Creek trailhead is 14 miles from Carson WA. RSVP required. 10.2 miles 3,110 ft. Dr. 128 TH Gateway 7 a.m.
Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
JUNE 2015
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EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—MAY 12, 2015
The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. Draft Minutes. Attending: Sojo Hendrix–president, John Rettig–secretary, Steve Hooker– Treasurer, Kate Evans, Marty Hanson, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber. Staff: Lee Davis, Jamie Anderson, Adam Baylor, Sarah Bradham, Kati Mayfield. Absent: Judith Baker–vice-president, Sunny Freeman. The meeting was called to order at 6:40 p.m. by President Sojo Hendrix. It was noted that a quorum was present. The agenda was reviewed. Kate Evans asked for a brief moment to address EC after the ED report, and it was noted that the FY 2013–14 audit report will be moved to the June meeting. It was moved by John Rettig and seconded by Marty Hanson to approve the agenda as amended; motion carried unanimously. The general minutes from April 14, 2015 were reviewed. Steve Hooker moved and Marty Hanson seconded a motion to approve these minutes as written; motion carried unanimously. BUSINESS REPORTS The Secretary’s April 30 membership report was read verbally into the record. John Rettig also presented the quarterly summary of the longer term trends in our membership, incorporated herein by reference, and focused on the “member buildup” phase that we enter mid-year before BCEP. It was noted that we have almost doubled this rate of buildup compared to 10 years back, well in excess of our increases in school capacities, and we ought to look into understanding why we have this happening. The Treasurer’s Report was reviewed by Steve Hooker. As of the end of March, Mazamas total operational revenue is $543,678 ($67,693 for the month) and total operating expenses are $591,861 ($106,564 for the month). Assets available for general operations are $58,275 and current total assets are $1,585,019. The third quarter reforecast was also reviewed by the treasurer. Both fundraising income and project expenses
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are expected to be lower than budgeted, and overall management projects that net revenue will be negative by roughly 2 percent ($7, 600). Steve Hooker gave us a briefing on committee budgeting; we have a role in this as liaisons. Written material has been forwarded. Lee Davis gave the Executive Director’s report; items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: ▶▶ Mazamas is a leading member of the new Portland Aid for Nepal Coalition which is working to provide aid to Nepal in the wake of the recent earthquakes. There have been three events scheduled to raise funds for the Nepal disaster in the community and there will be more in the future. Refer to the website for more details. ▶▶ Laura Burger was introduced as our newest staff person filling our new Membership & Development Assistant position. After a few words of personal introduction, she outlined three areas she will initially focus on: auditing the donor database, developing pledge monitoring and aging reports, and overal brainstorming to assure good donor stewardship. ▶▶ Lee Davis, Adam Baylor, and John Rettig will be attending the Access Fund annual meeting and advocacy conference this weekend. Adam Baylor is receiving the Access Fund’s Sharp End award (a national award for stewardship and advocacy); They will also be meeting with the American Alpine Club (AAC), IMBA, the Colorado Mountain Club, and others. The AAC has decided to create a national education department to develop instructor training standards for climbing. It was noted they are asking for $15,000 from each of the regional mountain clubs to help fund the program.
▶▶ A site visit was made for the lodge parking project, concentrating on the upper location. This has grown more attractive over the road 530 location, given that the USFS stated that 99 percent of the environmental assessment issues could go away, and the approval can therefore be faster under a Categorical Exclusion status. Other positives include better lot security, no road 530 improvements needed, avoiding a culvert replacement, and possibility for future handicap access. Known issues would be a $4,000 annual increase in snow plowing costs, and a higher count of trees removed. We are currently awaiting a revised cost estimate from USFS, expected in 2 weeks. ▶▶ Sarah Bradham gave a presentation on the IT project, and also handed out an executive summary, incorporated herein by reference. The Discovery Phase of the project is nearly complete, and we expect to review bids for the next phase in August/September and choose a vendor. CONSENT AGENDA: The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports and actions requested from the following committees: ▶▶ 20s & 30s Mazamas ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Expedition ▶▶ Outreach ▶▶ Risk Management ▶▶ Trail Trips The reports not requesting action were approved by consensus. ACTION ITEMS: Lodge Committee: Submitting a request for $6,500 for the purchase, installation, and permitting of a pellet stove in the basement. Steve Hooker moved and Joan Zuber seconded a motion to approve $6,500 for this stove; motion carried unanimously.
Adam Baylor gave a presentation of his work on the Stewardship and Advocacy Plan, complimenting the report circulated in the EC packet. Jamie Anderson and Lee Davis gave a presentation of the draft Development Plan, which is a key part of the Strategic Initiative. Kate Evans made a quick congratulatory note to staff both for the quality of the presentations given this month, and also for the Bulletin, which hit a page record of 48 in May and for the first time the printing and mailing costs were covered by advertising. Sojo Hendrix made a quick summary of the history of the Q Hikes task force assembled from Climbing, Trail Trips, 20s & 30s, and Outings Committees, and presented their draft proposed Q Hike policy. It was moved by Kate Evans and seconded by Amy Mendenhall to approve the Q Hikes policy as drafted. Motion carried unanimously. NEW BUSINESS: None.
We adjourned at 8:43 p.m. Submitted by: John Rettig, Secretary Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/.
PCTA TRAIL SKILLS COLLEGE April 17–19
by Regis Krug After hiking thousands of miles over the years, I decided that it was time to give back and I signed up for an intense three-day weekend in Cascade Locks with the Pacific Crest Trails Association learning how to design, build, and maintain wilderness trails. Now I know about grade, grade reversals, sloughing, berms, outslope, Gabians, drainage, McLeods, mattocks, Pulaski’s, grub hoes, and several more that I can’t remember the names of. We scouted several miles of Gorge Trail 400 looking for downed trees and other issues as well as looking at redesigns for a connector between Trail 400 and the Tanner Butte Trail. On Sunday, we repaired about a dozen drains and nearly 200 feet of the PCT just outside Cascade Locks. I learned a lot and will never look at trails the same way. It was a lot of fun with a great group of people.
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JUNE 2015
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527 SE 43RD AVE. PORTLAND OR 97215 WWW.MAZAMAS.ORG
Bringing the classic sport climbing dress code back to Smith Rock. Photo: Michael Zasadzien.
Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon