June/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 6 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.
nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high
DREAM BIG, WORK HARD, WAKE UP!, P. 8 WE WERE MAZAMAS:
PROFILE OF DON EASTMAN, P.20
ACCIDENT ON ZEBRA ZION: FALL ON MORNING GLORY WALL P. 24
Cover: Amber Beyer belays Mike Zasadzien up the third pitch of Mt. Hubris (The Ogre). Photo: Andrew Holman. Smith Rock and Statecaptions. Park in May 2014. Photo: Vaqas Malik. Need photos
FEATURES p. 8 Dream Big, Work Hard, Wake Up p. 14 Update on Joan Zuber p. 20 We Were Mazamas: A Profile of Don Eastman p. 24 Accident on Zebra Zion p. 28 Betties go Mazamas
MONTHLY COLUMNS p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities p. 11 Classic Mazamas p. 12 Lodge News p. 13 20s & 30s Mazamas p. 18 Outings p. 19 Climb Leader Profile—Eileen Kiely p. 23 Mazama Families p. 22 Membership Families p. 26 Go Hiking—Trail Trips p. 26 Membership Benefits p. 29 Successful Climbers p. 30 Membership Report p. 31 Executive Council Minutes
Contact Us
Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon
Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)
Executive Director’s Report Dear Members, At a recent information night for new and upcoming leaders at Mazamas, I was asked what my vision was for the Mazamas. I quickly stated our official vision statement of “Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.” I explained to these relatively new members that visions rightfully should be unattainable. Someone then said, “that’s great—but what’s your vision for the organization? What do you want Mazamas, the nonprofit, to look like in 20+ years?” It’s a good question, and the answer is grounded in our strategic plan. To restate the question, as we grow, can we see what we will become? Indeed, if we grow, we have several big opportunities ahead, but the clearest are represented by those activities and programs that align most with our values and most sustainably deliver our mission to members and newcomers. Those are our education and activity programs. Nearly all of you that have been members for more than three years can attest to the fact that participation in these programs best represents what it means to be a “Mazama.” So, I answered the question by saying that our biggest single opportunity is to develop our educational programs into the best alpine training school in the country. Many universities and organizations like Outward Bound, National Outdoor Leadership School, and the American Mountain Guides Association, provide training for young outdoor enthusiasts to someday get a job as a professional guide. No organization other than the Mountaineers and the Mazamas provides large-scale core training in mountaineering for adults. Because all of our programs are based in Portland, Mazamas education
programs already represent the largest centralized mountaineering training school in the country. Our programs are unique and compelling to everyone who wants to play in the mountains. Expanding and diversifying our education programs is one of our top strategic priorities for this very reason. We certainly have other opportunities that will shape the future of the Mazamas. Making our activity programs sustainable and strong will help us to get more people outside. Continuing to improve member services, including this Bulletin, our website, information systems and member benefits will help retain members. Engaging more of our community in our mission, adapting to diversity, focusing more on direct advocacy and stewardship work will all make us more relevant to our members and the public. I’ve been working with Executive Council and our Strategic Planning Committee to refine and develop our strategic plan into a simple and clear document that focuses our efforts on these opportunities. You’ll hear more about that plan revision in the months ahead. As we consider what it might mean to expand our programs, enhance our services and explore new opportunities, we must always remember our roots and ensure that our growth doesn’t fundamentally change our mission or purpose. Recently, Adam Baylor, Stewardship & Communications Manager said that Mazamas could be viewed as the Sierra Club of Oregon. The Sierra Club was
“Our biggest single opportunity is to develop our education programs into the best alpine training school in the country.” formed in 1892 (just two years before Mazamas) for very similar purposes and with similar aims. They have changed radically in the last one hundred years, broadening their mission and vision to explore, enjoy and protect the earth. Mazamas, too, has changed in the last 120 years and we will continue to do so. Compared to the Sierra Club, our mission remains much more narrowly focused on the promotion of mountaineering, and our vision keeps us aiming for the mountains. That focus, and our vision, will not change. We were the mountain club formed at the end of the 19th century to explore and protect the mountains of the Northwest. As we look intently into the 21st century, we will stay focused on promoting the joys and passion of mountaineering and protecting the integrity of the mountain environment. We do this work, and we support the Mazamas, so that future generations can have those same mountaineering experiences that you and I have had and be inspired to enjoy and protect the mountains. Sincerely,
Lee Davis Executive Director
Upcoming Events and Classes Mazama Welcome Night
Intro to Backpacking
Badger Creek Chuckwagon Weekend
Intermediate Climbing School Info Night & Application Period
June 25, 7–9 p.m. at the MMC. For new members as well as members who want to get more engaged with the organization.
July 25–27. See more details on page 16.
August 22–24 at Mazama Lodge. Learn the ins and outs of backpacking at the lodge before heading out for an overnight.
The ICS application period and info night are coming up soon. See more information on page 4.
Intermediate Snow Mini-Course
August 4, 7, 10 & 11. See more details on page 7. June/2014—3
Get Connected! tinyurl.com/mazamasFB Keep up on upcoming events, classes and activities, mountaineering/hiking information, road closures and other timely issues that affect Mazamas.
4 —Mazama Bulletin
Tell us your stories and send us your pictures! From social media to our print publications, we would like to tell as many of our members’ stories as possible. Essays, pictures, route conditions, trip reports, instructional or information videos—send them to us at mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org
mazamas.blogspot.com The Mazama Blog is full of posts on training, route conditions, trail information, videos and much more. We are actively seeking guest bloggers for the blog. If you are interested, email sarah@mazamas.org.
issuu.com/mazamas This is the easiest way to view current and past issues of the Mazama Bulletin as well as recent Mazama Annuals. Issues are easy to flip through on laptops and tablets.
Volunteer Opportunities
by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org
Youth Climb Camp Volunteers
Portland Alpine Fest (PAF)
Tuesday, June 10, 6:30 p.m. Teach kids to belay! Join us for an instructor orientation on Tuesday, June 10 at 6:30 p.m. to learn how we teach our five-session belay course. Then sign up to help for a few or all of the camp sessions, June 17, 19, 24, 26 and 28. Instructors should be AR or ICS grads. We’re also looking for a few BCEP grads to help as chaperones! Email volunteer@ mazamas.org to sign up.
Ongoing
Classic Mazamas Task Force Friday, June 20, 11 a.m. Join the six-month task force that will explore how the Mazamas can better serve our longtime members. Call Kati Mayfield at the MMC (503-2272345) for more information.
IT Task Force Ongoing Join a 12–18 month IT Task Force to help the Mazamas update our web and database systems to an integrated web solution for online registration for classes, climbs and hikes, class management and much more. We are looking for members with experience in database systems, web-based solutions and website development. We have an aggressive time line to identify needs, evaluate products, choose a system and implement the solution. Contact sarah@mazamas.org if interested.
PAF Event Coordinators The Portland Alpine Fest is a series of independent events arranged around a common mission: to celebrate alpine culture in the northwest. Each PAF Event Coordinator will independently manage his or her event while collaborating with the entire PAF team to ensure the events support the goals of the festival. Event coordinators oversee preparation and day-of logistics, connect with partners and athletes, track event budgets and oversee the event volunteers. The event coordinators can present their ideas for a presentation, clinic or fundraiser they would like to oversee, and a proposal for how it would fit within the Portland Alpine Fest. Annual Celebration Coordinator Carry on an important Mazama tradition, the Annual Celebration. This is the event where Mazamas get a chance to gather, reflect on the accomplishments of the year and enjoy a good show. The 2014 Annual Celebration will be the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Festival, and we need an experienced and enthusiastic event coordinator to lead the charge. Must be available for monthly meetings leading up to the November event, and full-time on Saturday, Nov. 8, the day of the event. PAF Committee Secretary The PAF Committee is looking for a communications-oriented volunteer to join the committee as secretary. The secretary is responsible for ensuring that meetings are effectively called and run, maintaining effective records (including meeting minutes) and managing communication between committee volunteers.
To see what the PAF team is all about, join us at a meeting the first Wednesday of the month (upcoming meetings are June 4 and July 2) at 7 p.m., or contact the committee chair, Tim Scott, timscott.yeah@gmail.com.
Office Volunteers Ongoing Front Desk Volunteers Front Desk Office Volunteers conduct a large portion of the day-to-day business at the Mazamas, including responding to member and public queries, processing applications, maintaining member and climb databases, taking payments and other special projects. Office volunteers are integral to the normal operation of the MMC and are asked to commit to a weekly four-hour shift, either 11-3 or 3-7. Volunteers should be confident with basic computer software programs and web-based applications and should have good customer service skills. On-call Office Volunteers. If you are willing to help out in the office but can’t make a regular commitment, we are looking for on-call office volunteers to fill in for our regular volunteers when they are on vacation. Grant Writers and Editors Ongoing Help the Mazamas pursue its goals by raising funds to support youth, advocacy and other development projects. Grant writers are needed on an on-call basis to help prepare grant applications; we also need people to proof and edit applications once they are complete. Experience working in a nonprofit, development department or some other grant-writing experience is highly preferred for writers; strong command of grammar, syntax and attention to detail required.
June/2014—5
Congratulations ICS Grads by Gary Ballou, ICS Coordinator Congratulations to the graduating 2013–14 class of the Intermediate Climbing School! Eight months, 14 field session weekends, 16 lectures—these graduates are a testament to grit and determination to finish a demanding course of instruction, after which they will become the backbone of the Mazama climbing community. Already several graduates have started the training to become climb leaders. It has been a rewarding year to watch their growth and development, and I am deeply proud of their accomplishment. Thanks also to the more than 100 assistants, volunteers and supporters who made this class a success—your valuable help ranked this year among the top for a successful outcome. Thank you so much for all your help!
ICS 2014-15 Class Schedule Interested in applying to the Intermediate Climb School? The class schedule is now posted at http://mazamas.org/educationclasses/intermediate-climbing-school-ics/! Check out the site for latest information on the class, upcoming information night and other details.
! t I e d a M You Congratulations to: Jesse Applegate Amber Beyer Matt Blecharz Justin Brady Audrey Brown Grant Causton Jean Cavanaugh Mike Domeier Kim Edger Amy Graham Benjamin Grandy Kathleen Hahn
Dave Harkins Sojo Hendrix Stephen Hirai Paul Johnson Eric Kennedy Brian Klump Helen Maher Annie McCartney Rico Micallef Kirk Newgard Andrea Ogston Bianca Pyko
Teresa Redman Sanman Rokade Sarah Root Andy Schiestl Eric Swanson Kelly Thomas Jason Wagner Joan Wallace Erin Wirtz Mike Zasadzien
From left to right: Amy Graham ascends the rope during the Crevasse Rescue weekend at Timberline. Photo: Gary Ballou. Amy Graham and Jesse Applegate get their gear ready for the Anchors session at Horsethief State Park. Photo: Andrew Holman. Justin Brady gets his diploma and a wellearned handshake from Gary Ballou during the ICS graduation ceremony. Photo: Andrew Holman.
Intermediate Snow Climbing Mini-Course This new mini-course offering is ideal for BCEP graduates who want to increase their skill and techniques to negotiate higher-angle snow slopes. It’s a great way to gain Mazama Intermediate Climbing School-level snow climbing skills without having to take ICS, or to refresh and upgrade your skills if it’s been a while since you’ve taken ICS. This mini-course involves two lectures and a two-day weekend field session. You’ll learn how to employ proper crampon and ice axe techniques to ascend, descend and traverse high-angle snow slopes. You’ll also learn how to properly construct and evaluate snow anchors, how to travel in rope teams to negotiate steep slopes and glaciated terrain, and how to employ protection techniques including running belays, fixed-line travel, belaying a lead climber and rappelling in snow. Lectures are Aug. 4 and 7, and the field session weekend is Aug. 9 and 10 on Mt. Hood. Since this mini-course will occur in August, the snow should be firm and steep, offering a real high-angle experience. Application period is June 15–July 15. To apply, and for more details, go to: mazamas.org/education-classes/intermediatesnow-climbing/ You can also contact the lead instructor, Steve Heikkila, at iceclimberasi@gmail.com
Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
June/2014—7
Dream BIG, work HARD, WAKE UP! by Rebecca Schob
C
limbing in Alaska’s Central Range didn’t just “happen.” It took months of physical training, planning and research, battling fears—and there were set-backs along the way in the form of accidental injury and the doubts that go along with injury. This experience crystallized that we don’t climb and achieve big dreams in a vortex; it’s those that lend their strength, care, support and believe in our abilities when we question our own that make it possible.
8 —Mazama Bulletin
Brad Farra and I flew out of Portland at 7:50 p.m. Thursday, April 24, arriving in Anchorage with time to catch a few hours sleep before driving to Talkeetna the next morning. We arrived in that sleepy town earlier than anticipated and had our bags weighed and labeled, boots on, smiling at the door of Talkeetna Air Taxi by 8 a.m. We were disappointed to hear clouds were hanging low in the Ruth Gorge and we’d have to wait until later in the day to fly in. We anticipated taking only Friday off of work and being back in PDX Monday morning. Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi was understanding of our tight schedule and therefore was determined to help us in. So, shortly after noon, we were headed north and landed near the Mt. Dickie Camp about 1:30 p.m. We snagged the site of a team leaving and saved ourselves the work of digging a platform. They had been able to climb The Japanese Couloir on Mt. Barille but reported unconsolidated snow and some small slide action as the day warmed. We threw on our skis and headed down the Gorge to check out our primary objective. Moving away from camp, we were mere specks on the landscape; the bigness and impressiveness, the possibility of the Ruth Gorge was invigorating. Less than an hour later our brows were furrowed as we moved around Bradley trying to link up a route we ultimately decided wouldn’t go this
trip. We had a list of alternatives, but as we traveled a full six miles down the gorge, we were disheartened and dismayed. With multiple back-up plans, we thought we’d have a pick of routes at the end of April—prime climbing season for the Ruth. We didn’t. We moved north and detoured further east across the Ruth to talk with a random tent further southeast of the dickie camp. These gents had the beta that gave us hope: good neve and possibly some hidden ice on north-facing slopes. The climb that interested us and had the most potential to go was Wake Up on Mt. Wake. We set out at 5 a.m., later than desired, but sleep seemed a necessity after our late ski-tour return. Travel south went quickly and we left our skis and roped up to cross the edges of the Ruth and move deeper west between Bradley and Wake. Objective hazard number 1, the large hanging ice fall, did give us a show as we approached. We saw its wave barely hit the base of the route and judged it to be a small release. Our step quickened. We made the base of the route with Brad punching through a crevasse only briefly. I stayed high and we traversed in snow on a south-facing slope that alternated between firm and knee deep. What a relief to find thin alpine ice covering granite slabs at the start of pitch one. Firm-looking snow filled in some corners and rock pro would be the most
View from the summit ridge east to Mt. Hunter. Photo: Rebecca Schob. Left to right: Brad Farra, Paul Roderick (pilot with Talkeetna Air Taxi), and Rebecca Schob (left to right). Photo taken by a member of the team at the first drop that afternoon, Dan Beard, just north of Mt. Barille on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier.
likely used if any. Brad offered me the lead and handed over gear. This proved to be an expert move on his part as we didn’t place a piece of pro on route that day, but he no longer had to carry it. I’ll remember that move in the future .... The first pitch proved to be the crux demanding some thoughtful moves on thin ice through an open-book feature to a series of short icy steps around the corner and up to the right. Above we found 2,000-feet plus of moderate snow slopes with variable firmness but that didn’t waste much energy. A second ice step followed by firm snow offered an entertaining break in the climbing and then the real fun began ... trenching. No pictures of the horrendously deep loose unconsolidated snow cause I only took them on my Go-Pro, which was lost later on the descent in a crevasse. I went to the Ruth Gorge, found out I could climb moderate alpine ice comfortably, and got a thorough education about loose, unconsolidated
snow trenching. At first I just made a cave and went nowhere, but with a few words of advice about using a knee and lunging forward with chest and shoulders, I began to make progress. These conditions dramatically slowed our progress for more than 1,000 feet, but it was certainly one of the most attention-grabbing parts of the climb. Talk about fully committing your body to movement, there’s no other choice when suddenly it’s loose snow on rock slab. As the corniced summit ridge of Wake drew closer, we continued a rising traverse toward what looked to be the best route through. With such slop leading right up to the firm cornice, the style of belly-flop used to maneuver onto the summit ridge is likely unparalleled. I speak only for myself of course. Brad chopped through and muttered
The “walk 4 feet left of the hole” worked well, until I took a step forward and heard/felt a rumble and a whoosh and was suddenly free-falling like Alice through the rabbit hole—no idea up from down. something about “this is hard” as he seemed to levitate over. Never having heard those words uttered by Brad, I knew I had something to look forward to. The sun was stunning and we were soaked from our snow swim. With a brew stop necessary, we assessed our descent, plotting a course to stay high to avoid as much crevasse danger as possible; the conditions were warm and the crevasse field looked gnarly. I started campaigning for a rapid descent versus going for the true summit. We compromised, heading toward the summit for a short time longer until we agreed it was time to start the descent. About an hour into our descent Brad punched through a snow
bridge and shouted back specific instructions on how to move around it. The “walk four feet left of the hole” worked well until I took a step forward and heard/felt a rumble and a whoosh and was suddenly freefalling like Alice through the rabbit hole—no idea up from down. Brad told me later that he had been pulled violently eight feet uphill before being able to sink his tools into the soft snow and hold the fall. My eyes opened to see a 60-foot-wide hole and my rope cut deep into an overhanging lip about 30+feet overhead. We could hear each other’s shouts but not words. There was work to do, and so I
continued on next page June/2014—9
Wake Up, continued from previous page did it. Prussiks on, I tied the end of a few extra rope coils from my shoulders to the haul loop of my pack, grabbed my puffy and thick gloves, shoved them in my coat, and started ascending. Within an hour, I’d freed myself and my pack. I knew I had a mild concussion most likely due to whiplash and direct blows of falling snow and ice to the head. We knew we had a few more hours of daylight and that the likelihood of another crevasse fall was great. So we got moving. Was it scary? People have asked me many times. No. It wasn’t. There was time to open my eyes, realize I was alive, wasn’t buried or broken, and then all the lessons I’d learned through the Mazamas kicked in: stay warm, self-extract, take action. It was relatively simple. There is actually something rather satisfying in putting all your training to good use. I was thankful for all the practice I’d had. The navigation north along the ridge to the WakeBradley Col was relatively straightforward and uneventful. Down-climbing a steep, deep snow slope brought us to freshlooking tat and we rapped into the couloir in between Mt. Bradley and Mt. Wake. By the time the light was dying, we’d reached the top of the bergschrund that was gaping on either side. We appeared to be near the center and at a lip that prohibited us from seeing what lay beyond. The snow was firmer in this zone of compression, so we dug a bollard and Brad offered to rap over and see whether we could cross. This was rather gentlemanly of him, seeing as I had already earned my merit badge for crevasse selfextraction that day. He was able to perform some circus act with a rapid rappel and a mighty push off of the upper lip of the
bergschrund, landing just short of the downhill side but able to climb out. My rappel was assisted by a fireman’s belay and a pull toward the downslope edge of the bergschrund with no climbing out needed. We were back on the move quickly. We were aware of the considerable crevasse negotiating that remained ahead of us from gazing up at the descent route that morning. Major props to Brad’s nerves of steel. It’s not easy to navigate a huge crevasse field in the dark with the short-sighted sweep of a headlamp, but he did it flawlessly. I certainly breathed easier when we re-joined our bootpath from the morning. Soon, but not soon enough, we were back to skis. With a stiff wind blowing south, down the Ruth in our faces, freezing breath to eyelashes, we geared up and headed back to camp and a few hours of rest. When the alarm rang at 9 a.m. to call Talkeetna, there were already climbers waiting on the runway. Uh-oh. Better pack quick! Forty-five hours on the Ruth, about half of that climbing, approximately 5-6 hours skiing and a few remaining hours preparing and sleeping. Touch-down 1:30 p.m. Friday and take-off around 10:30 a.m. Sunday morning. To feel competent as an alpine climber and enjoy such a fine route in an imposing range is still sinking in. I certainly didn’t do it alone. This dream-like reality was possible thanks to many: Brad, the Expedition Committee, fellow Mazamas that offered moral support, but most gratitude goes to mentor and friend John Frieh whose coaching and encouragement helped me see that what seemed like utterly audacious goals can be a reality. Thanks all. Hope to see you out there soon.
Top: Hanging glacier on the east face of Wake that released during our approach, barely reaching the start of pitch one and released again about 2 am. Photo: Rebecca Schob. Bottom: Selfie just below the summit of Mt. Wake via Wake Up, Ruth Gorge, Alaskan Central Range. Rebecca Schob and Brad Farra.
10 —Mazama Bulletin
Classic Mazamas 25 years or more of Mazama membership We lead a wide variety of year round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. Saturday, June 14 Beacon Rock Hike If you’ve never walked up Beacon Rock or you’d just like to do it again, today is your day. Did you know Beacon Rock is the second largest basalt monolith in the world? There are no fees since June 14 is a free day at this Washington State Park. We will walk up the trail at a SLOW pace and enjoy the views of the Columbia and the Oregon side of the Gorge. Two miles, 800 feet of elevation gain. We will stop at the newly remodeled Char Burger in Cascade Locks for a snack or lunch on our way home. Meet at Gateway at 9 a.m., fee: $2 for Mazamas. Leader: Billie Goodwin 503-254-6121. Friday, June 20—Task Force Meeting, 11 a.m., MMC, room 3 At our Task Force meeting April 25 we changed our name from Old Timers to Classic Mazamas. We also drafted this mission statement: “Classic Mazamas offer year-round outdoor, social and cultural activities targeting members 55 or older, or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.” Please come join us at the Task Force meeting if you are interested in developing ideas and activities for the Classic Mazamas. Our June meeting is the 20th at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Please bring a lunch. If you have any questions, please contact Kate Evans at 503-635-6540, or kateevans97@gmail.com Monday, June 23—Laurel Hill Hike Laurel Hill, which is below Ski Bowl off Highway 26, is a threemile hike with 300 ft. of elevation gain. Meet at the southeast corner of the parking structure at Gateway at 8:30 a.m. Fee: $2 for Mazama members. Leader: Flora Huber, 503-658-5710.
Sunday, June 29—Nick Eaton, Gorton Creek Hike Enjoy a slower paced hike up Nick Eaton and down Gorton Creek with a side trip to Indian Point if possible. This hike is posted on the Trail Trips committee page but may be of interest to those who enjoy more strenuous hikes at a moderate pace. Total distance is 8.5 miles and 2,700 feet elevation gain. Pace will be about 1.5 miles per hour on the uphill, and 2 miles per hour on the downhill. Lunch will be at a viewpoint on the way up with a second longer break at the Indian pits. We will leave Gateway Park and Ride at 8:30 a.m. so get there early to ensure a spot as wilderness restrictions apply. Do not plan to return to town until late afternoon. Fee: $2 for Mazamas. Leader: Diana Forester 503-288-7782. Saturday, July 5—Potluck Picnic at the Miller’s You are invited to Dick and Jane Miller’s home for their annual potluck picnic. If you’ve never attended one of the picnics or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to come with you. Bring a food of your choice to share in potluck fashion: main dish, salad or dessert. If you have a favorite beverage, bring it. Lemonade and water will be provided. Also provided will be plates, cups, forks, knives and spoons. Plan to arrive at 12:30 p.m. so we can eat at 1 p.m. Dick and Jane are at 17745 SW Cooper Mtn. Lane, Beaverton. Coming from the east, take Hwy. 26 to 217. Go south on 217 to the Scholls Ferry Rd. exit across from Washington Square. Take a right onto Scholls Ferry Rd. and go west to SW 175th Avenue. Turn right and go up the hill ¾ mile to Cooper Mtn. Lane on the left. This is on a curve with limited sight distance, so use caution making the left turn onto Cooper Mtn. Lane. Then follow the Miller signs and orange traffic cones to the Miller driveway. If you have any questions about the picnic, call Dick or Jane at 503-5903598. Mark your calendar now! See you there.
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.
SMALL GROUP TOURS OF TURKEY. Competitive prices, fully escorted, meals included. http://turkey.cascolytravel.com HIKE HIGHPOINTS, UT, CO, AZ, NM. Road trip. Late July 2014, share driving. Interested? David Zeps. davidz24130@gmail.com DENALI EXPEDITON 2015 Looking for serious minded climbers interested in joining a small private climb team on Denali in May/ June 2015. Contact Steven Wagoner 503-939-0496, evermore89@ msn.com HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
June/2014—11
Lodge News Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Amanda Richards, 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
Mazama Lodge transitions to our summer schedule Thursday, June 12, until noon on Tuesday, Sept. 2. Check our calendar for availability during the summer. We will be serving breakfast, lunch and dinner throughout the summer. The lodge is sold out this summer on only a few dates—June 7, 20, 21 and 28, July 10–12, Aug. 16, 29–31. Our caretakers Joe and Amanda are hitting the road for the summer in their recently purchased 1972 Winnebago with less than 100,000 miles on it. You can expect to see Joe and Amanda back at the lodge this winter with some great travel stories. Max and his parents, Sandy and Duane, will be working at the lodge this summer. Duane is a retired school superintendent and
Summer Menu
Monday Veggie Platter Pizza Salad Bar Roasted Veggies S’mores
Hike Leader Appreciation Night Recap May 2
12 —Mazama Bulletin
Tuesday Cheese Fondue Grilled Chicken w/ Lemon Mixed Green Salad Sauteed Carrots Braised Cabbage Mashed Potatoes Cake du Jour
Sandy is a retired school teacher. Both are from upstate New York. This year our Chuckwagon Hike to Lost Lake from Timberline Lodge is growing. This is a two-day hike departing on Saturday, June 26, with overnight camping at Lost Creek Campground. The lodge crew will cook your meals and shuttle your camping great. All you need is a daypack. Hike Week at Mazama Lodge is Monday, Aug. 18– Friday, Aug. 22. We have a series of great day hikes planned and one optional backpack with llamas to Hidden Lake. There is an extra fee for the llama backpack—just $45 for members and $55 for nonmembers (limit of seven participants).
Wednesday Antipasto Ziti Pasta Tomato & Alfredo Sauce Grilled Veggies Caesar Salad Garlic Bread Ice Cream
Thursday Pita Bread & Hummus Greek Chicken Baba Ghanouj Tzatziki Sauce Spinach & Feta Salad Baklava
by Terry Lawson This event recognizes and honors the team of more than 100 hike leaders who have led nearly 1,000 hikes, rambles, backpacks, snowshoes, car-camping trips and trail tending trips over the past year. TTC co-chair Rex Breunsbach reviewed TTC accomplishments, noting that over a recent 10 year period TTC leaders led 9,338 events with 94,379 hikers and ramblers and generated $138,360 in revenue. He also noted recent work on implementation of the strategic plan, a revised leadership guide, joint work to support AYM and Families hiking, new use of Meetup to increase participation as well as noting individual accomplishments of our most active leaders. Executive Council President Bronson Potter and Executive Director Lee Davis each spoke on TTC activities within the context of the overall Mazama mission and programs. Then there were two fascinating talks: hike leader Paul Gerald spoke on updates and hikes in his new edition of 60 Hikes Within 60 Miles, then AYM hike leader Matt Reeder discussed hikes from his book Off The Beaten Trail on little known hikes in NW Oregon and SW Washington. The appreciation theme of HLAN included donated day passes to its employee store from Columbia Sportswear for each leader as they arrived. There was also a raffle at the end of contributed merchandise and gift certificates from Columbia Sportswear, Hillcrest Ski & Sports, Icebreaker, Montbell Portland, Multnomah Falls Lodge, Next Adventure, Oregon Mountain Community, Otto’s Ski Shop, Patagonia Portland, The North Face, U.S. Outdoor as well as fellow leaders Susan Koch, Regis Krug, Jim Selby, Sheri Smith and fellow Mazama William Sullivan. As usual for HLAN, good food and drinks were provided by Bob Smith. The event was organized by Sheri Smith and Terry Lawson with the help of many TTC members and friends as well as Mazama staff members Jamie Anderson, Sarah Bradham and Kati Mayfield. If you would like to be a hike leader and participate in next year’s event, please contact Jim Selby, Rex Breunsbach or any member of TTC.
20s & 30s Mazamas
The 20s and 30s Mazamas lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s and, of course, anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.
Our goals are to attract younger folks to the Mazamas, encourage joining as full members and to promote their continued involvement, participation and leadership within the Mazamas. Our trips include hiking, climbing, backpacking, caving and other outdoor adventures, as well as climb nights at local gyms. Come join us for a trip or lead one of your own! The best way to stay up-to-date with our activities is on the Mazama website: mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s. June Climb—Middle Sister On Saturday–Sunday, June 14–15, Andrew Bodien will lead a climb of Middle Sister via the North Ridge route. To sign up you will need to submit a Mazama Climb Card to the climb leader. Hike Leader Highlight: Sarah Miller Sarah has been a Mazama member since 2007 and has been leading hikes since 2010. Sarah’s favorite activities to lead are day hikes, overnight trips and beach hikes. She became a Mazama because she had to keep up with her big sister! And she became a leader because she tends to hike a half-click slower than regular Mazama activities and decided to lead her own trips at her own pace. According to Sarah’s philosophy it’s the journey, not the destination. Sarah likes introducing people to the Mazamas and making her hikes positive experiences. If you are on a hike with Sarah, keep in mind that her favorite leader treats are homemade-baked treats, especially if they include chocolate!
Sarah Miller enjoying the trail.
Tech Screw-lock
50% OFF
Redpoint Shoes 10 pc. Nut Set
50% OFF
PDX Rock Climbs Guide
25% OFF
24 IN. DYNEMA SLINGS
50% OFF
50% OFF
X-Static Belay D-Lite Screwgate
50% OFF
High Mtn. Axe w/leash
50% OFF
50% OFF
June/2014—13
Update on Joan Zuber by Kate Evans As many of you know, Joan Zuber had a horrible accident on Jan. 29. While working on her pickup, the hood slammed down on her right hand, trapping her overnight for 18 hours before being found by her neighbors on horseback the next morning. After two operations the Emanuel trauma doctors realized they could not save her hand, so they amputated it. Since then Joan has been learning how to write with her left hand, and drive, tie her shoes, get the toothpaste out of the tube, dress, cook and clean with only one hand. She also has had to learn to ask others for help when in a buffet line or needing her meat cut. She has met all these challenges with an incredibly positive attitude, style and grace. She truly is an inspiration to us all. She continues to carry on with her incredible energy. She works actively as a member of the Mazama Executive Council, the Clackamas County Soil and Water Conservation District Board, as the president of the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs and as the contact for the Pechuck Lookouts. Joan also continues to care for her dogs, horses and chickens on her farm outside Molalla. Joan also has been in contact with climber Aron Ralston, author of 127 Hours, and he has given her reassurance and hope that she will be able to continue climbing, an activity of great importance to her. He recommended very strongly that she needs a body-powered prosthesis as opposed to a battery-driven one. The former is lighter and not as subject to problems with water and dirt. He also gave her details about special prosthetic devices she may find useful such as the TRS 3 Grip Prehenser for most activities as well as the off-the-shelf split hook. Soon Joan will receive her first body-powered prosthesis. Mike Dianich also donated a small skyhook and a small birdsbeak that can be modified into a rock-climbing terminal device. Many people have responded and come through to help her. She is very grateful for help from friends and family, especially her daughter Heather. She is also very grateful for the many Mazamas who donated to the online fund that Marilyn Schulz established. The contributions have ranged from $4 to $1,000 checks and have come from Mazamas and other folks Joan knows to strangers who only heard about her on the news. Joan has felt bad that she has not personally thanked everyone because of her limited ability to write and type with her left hand. Unfortunately, although she is insured, Joan still has many expenses that are not covered by insurance. Her insurance offers 80 percent coverage, but when it comes to special prosthetic terminal devices, the insurance company will be determining which ones are “medically necessary.� If you would like to contribute to help Joan, you can mail a check to Joan Zuber at P.O. Box 388, Molalla, Oregon 97038. 14 —Mazama Bulletin
New! Mazama Bob Wilson Expedition Grants $10,000 total available split between two or three expeditions. The Mazama Bob Wilson Grants are intended to inspire, celebrate and motivate a culture of exploratory climbing within the Mazamas and to reward our dedicated volunteers and leaders. These new annual grants will provide financial support to Mazama members who are organizing or leading expedition climbing ventures in the high or remote mountain regions of the world. Applications accepted June 1–July 4, 2014 for expeditions of 15 days or more to occur between February 2015 and July 2016. Applicant must be a current member of the Mazamas having joined in 2012 or earlier (two years). Application form and detailed application requirements are available online. Go to www.mazamas.org for more details. Mazama Wilson Expedition grants are made possible thanks to longtime member, expedition leader and past chair of the Mazama expedition committee, Bob Wilson.
New! Gear Demo Program Thanks to a generous donation from Leki, we have just launched a new Gear Demo Program. We have 30 pairs of Leki Corklite trekking poles for you to take for a spin, 20 unisex and 10 women-specific. There are two demo options—10 days or 1 month. The 1 month option is only available for members. Costs: 10 days—$5 members/$10 nonmembers. One month—$15 members only. Reserve online at mazamas.org/resources/ gear-demo-program/ or just come in to the MMC. Then head for the hills and see what you think of Leki’s lightweight trekking pole. Even better, take a photo of yourself in action and post it to our Facebook page and tag Mazamas and Leki. This is a new program for the Mazamas so please tell us what you think.
Membership Benefits Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15%
The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books Save 20%. Get the code on the Mazama website in the members section. Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10%
Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% non-sale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items
Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, Ore.) 10% Rock and Ice Magazine Annual subscription 40% off. Go to Mazama website for code. U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%
June/2014—15
Come and join us for the “throw-back” Mazama hiking event of the year with the best weather possible! Like the good ol’ days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous old-time trails in Oregon (PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail). Total distance is approximately 26 miles and you won’t mind the total elevation gain of around 4,000 ft. Cost of the event is $140 for members and $175 for non-members. Note that the transportation cost is around 40 percent of the budget. A carpool will be available to take you up and back to the Mazama Lodge if you prefer. For more information, or to sign up, go to mazamas.org/lodge, or email Rick Amodeo at ricka@ aaieng.com with questions.
16 —Mazama Bulletin
Itinerary: Friday night we will arrive at the Mazama Lodge and have a delicious dinner (around 7 p.m.) and meet our fellow hikers. On Saturday separate hiking groups will get transported to Timberline Lodge where we will start our hike west toward Paradise Park and continue downhill toward Zigzag Mountain for lunch along Burnt Lake, where you can dip into the refreshing water. After lunch we continue down to the Lost Creek Campground where we will find our gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc.) waiting for us, along with a chuckwagon dinner by the Lodge grillmasters. Pack your favorite beverage to enjoy. Sunday, after a filling breakfast, we will go as a large group old-style (since we will not be in the MH Wilderness) and start at Top Spur, cross Lolo Pass and follow the Bull Run area boundary to the Lost Lake General Store, where beer buying is optional! The lodge vans will take us back to the Mazama Lodge for snacks and head for home.
PICKETS - SNOW ANCHORS - PULLEYS - DESCENDERS - EDGE PROTECTION - CARABINERS - RIGGING PLATES - RINGS
SPIRE BELAY DEVICE
The Spire’s ability to easily lower a climber while in auto-block mode leads the pack in ease of use, and its right at home on your skinny alpine rope. • Auto-block mode for 1 or 2 seconding climbers. • Lowering a seconding climber is quick, simple and secure • Certified for ropes from 7.5-10.7mm (optimized for ropes 8.9-9.5) Distributed by • Ultralight (56 grams)
June/2014—17 SEATTLE MANUFACTURING CORPORATION | FERNDALE, WA | 360-366-5534 | INFO@SMCGEAR.NET | WWW.SMCGEAR.NET
Adventure Travel OUTINGS—LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2014/2015
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.
Chamonix—Mt. Blanc Climbing July 7–21 Full/Alternates Only. Contact Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org (leader) or Lisa Brady, pdxlisab@gmail.com (assistant leader) for more details.
Lassen National Park Outing Aug. 16–23 Full/Alternates only. Lassen National Park is located in northern California. The park was originally two separate national monuments (Lassen and Cinder Cone) in 1907 and were combined into a single national park in 1916. From 1914 to 1917, Lassen threw clouds of steam and ash thousands of feet into the air, with the most notable eruption occurring in May 1915. There will be an assortment of A and B level day-hiking during the six days. Wildlife sightings, wildflowers, rugged terrain and mountain lakes await you. Attention will given to the history of the park; topographic features; and the flora and fauna we encounter. The group site will be at Shingletown KOA (13 miles west of Lassen) and we will carpool to the trailheads. The cost of the trip is $150 for members and $210 for nonmembers. KOA offers tent sites, RV hookups and three types of cabins. Campsite/lodging expenses are not included in the cost. The group size will be limited to 24 people, including the leaders, Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. Contact Richard at 503-5988788 for an application. There will be a preouting meeting in the spring for participants to meet and receive additional information.
Hiking and Touring in Tuscany and Cinque Terre Aug. 31–Sept. 12 Full/Alternates Only. See information in the February Bulletin.
2014 Exploring Utah’s National Parks Sept. 28–Oct. 12 Full/Alternates Only. See information in the May Bulletin.
18 —Mazama Bulletin
What Is Your Outing Wish List? Where would you like to see Mazamas Outings go? Please let the Outings Committee know where you dream of exploring, and we’ll see if we can work on providing that trip. And maybe you’d even like to lead or assist! Send your ideas, suggestions and aspirations to us at mazamas.outings@gmail. com. Thanks!
Grand Canyon Trek Oct.10–17, 2014 Join us as we go rim-to-rim in the Grand Canyon. Our 64-mile trek will begin on the North Rim as we descend beside lovely Bright Angel Creek. Then we will go off the beaten path and travel to Clear Creek where we will spend a day off trail to either Cheyava Falls or a descent to the Colorado River. Then we will retrace our steps and continue our journey along Bright Angel Creek, visiting the Phantom Ranch before crossing the Colorado River and ascending to Indian Gardens. We will then wrap up our trip with a westward traverse on the Tonto Trail before ascending the Hermit Trail to the South Rim at Hermit’s Rest Trailhead. Temperatures may still top 80 in the Canyon in October and will approach freezing at night near the rim. The 5–6 participants should be in good physical condition and have completed at least one 50+ mile hike and be prepared to travel up to 15 miles a day. Cost includes all fees and transportation to and from Las Vegas as well as a night’s lodging in Las Vegas. The itinerary is tentative pending permits from the National Park Service which should be in hand by mid-to-late June. The cost of the outing will be approximately $670–$820 and excludes airfare. Contact the leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@ hotmail.com) for more information.
Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, learn about and experience the flora and fauna of the many climatic zones of this part of the world as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. While on
the summit, enjoy the 360-degree view of a little known continent and look down to the Olduvai Gorge where our tool-making ancestors evolved. Our ascent to the summit is along the little climbed Lemosho and Western Breach route. Less than one percent of summit attempts are made along this route since it includes 4th class climbing. As we trek through the low lands we will learn about different cultural and social norms of various indigenous ethnic groups. If we choose to spend a night in the crater, we will explore the remaining glaciers and the crater of Kilimanjaro. We begin our African journey in Moshi, often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania, where we will begin to learn the culture and society of local inhabitants as well as our support people. Local diets and new foods can be explored as well as clothing and dried goods when visiting the local market. Good local hotels will allow us to rest and sleep to overcome our long air journey to Moshi. Following our many days of trekking and climbing we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. Such an optional trip might include Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti and or Ngorongoro Crater. In-country cost for this unique trip range from $3,800–$4,300 per person depending upon number of participants while airfare from Portland is currently around $2,500. Airfare can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations. Leaders: Paul Steger, 503-998-6188, (PaulSteger@q.com) and Eric Hoem, 503-3413996, (erichoem@comcast.net). Deposit $500 due by Sept. 15, 2014.
Eileen Kiely Mazama Climb Leader Residence: Portland, Ore. Hometown: Rochester, New York. When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? A friend suggested we take Ski Mountaineering together. I liked the people, so I stayed. What are your favorite climbs? As I rapped off Thielsen last year I SWORE it was the very last time, but dang! I put it on the schedule again for 2014. What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward to this year? I’m going to share Baker and Rainier with Bruce Yatvin, and take some time for a few private climbs. Best climbing memory: I recently climbed Kilimanjaro with several other Mazamas and friends. I am hoping to forget the last three hours up the Western Breach, but I will never forget the inside of the crater. The glaciers emerged from pure snow. We made first tracks as we walked up and touched them. I’ll never see the like again. The summit was anti-climactic. Future climbing goals? Olympus has skunked me twice. Greg Willmarth is helping me plan a 2016 rematch. Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: My High Gear altimeter carabiner watch. It has BIG numbers. Guiding principle/philosophy: There WILL be fun here. Favorite leader treat? Home-baked goods. Most influential book: Colin Fletcher’s The Complete Walker. I was 14. Favorite quote: “I do NOT have to make this up.” Words that best describe you: Most people remember my laugh.
Most treasured possessions: It must be the grand piano I barely play, because I’ve been moving it all over the world for 30 years. Pet peeves: Cliques. Person(s) most interested in meeting: Dr. Samuel Beckett. Favorite vacation spot: The next one. When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? Sunriver. Hobbies other than hiking/climbing: Knitting, singing in Cathedral Choir. Occupation: Purchasing manager for a global manufacturer. You are currently leading your second, all-women BCEP group. Please tell us about the evolution of the group, the role you see it playing in the Mazamas, how it differs from your own BCEP experience, any unique challenges encountered by the group, and what you see as the future of the all-women BCEP group: I did not take BCEP. Right after 9/11, I realized my life at 43 had become too small, so I shook things up by joining an all-women’s group that trained together to do Mount St. Helens. I wouldn’t have done it if I thought I had to keep up with a bunch of young guys competing to go the fastest. Training was hard, but I got great advice from a female guide: “The summit never seems to get any closer; remember to look back and see how far you’ve come.” I deliberately avoided the Mazamas because they had a rep among my climbing and hiking friends for being waaay Rambo. I learned by climbing with guides, which is very different than a Mazama climb. Then I took the Ski Mountaineering class, and I met great
leaders who definitely did not fit that stereotype. Rather than take BCEP, I applied directly to ICS, and then to LD, with a goal to encourage women, middleaged adults and other non-traditional types to try climbing. Many women learn by connecting their emotions to the task, and they want to express their feelings. Some men, in turn, get weirded out by that, and it can be truly demoralizing when people are working at the edge of their comfort zones. I wanted to offer women a place where they could do totally badass stuff, and be OK sharing an emotional reaction. They also quickly realize there is no big strong man to carry the rope for them— pick it up! That goes a long way toward building the confidence we want our teammates to have. In 2013, I finally got to lead a BCEP team, with Patrice Cook as my co-leader and mentor. Since an all-women’s team was good for me, I made the proposal to the Education committee and they supported giving it a try. We started with five women last year, and a dozen women volunteered as instructors. The students are all still friends, still climbing (on coed teams), are helping this year’s class and a couple are applying to ICS this fall. In 2014 we had more women request the class than we could accept. But the point isn’t to get more women to request the team; it’s that the Mazamas want ALL of our BCEP grads to climb well, and stay active in the organization. If this team can give a group of students a stronger foundation to start their adventure with the Mazamas, then I’d like to keep leading it. June/2014—19
We Were Mazamas A Profile of Don Eastman by Bill Mosser
A
lthough I am not a member of the Mazamas and I’m not a mountain climber, I know one. His name is Don Eastman and he married my mother, Priscilla Mosser, in 1987, about the same time he stopped climbing mountains. Now, at 91, he is more likely to take the elevator than the stairs. Last year, Don and Priscilla moved to a senior living community and I helped them distill their three-bedroom house and garage into a one-bedroom apartment. While going through Don’s things I discovered that he gave a lot of his time to serving organizations and that the Mazamas was at the top of the list.
A Mazama party on the Ptarmigan Traverse. Don is second from the front. Photo: Mazama Archives.
Don served on the Mazama Executive Council from 1962 to 1966 and again in 1975. He served on the Budget Committee in 1965 and 1966, the Finance Committee in 1962 and the Long Range Planning Committee in 1965 and 1966. He was on the Climbing Committee in 1959, 1967–1969, and chaired that committee in 1969. In 1962, Don was the club vicepresident, treasurer in 1963 and president in 1964. In 20 —Mazama Bulletin
addition to these commitments, he led Mazama climbs, and climbed his way to the top of over 300 peaks. I don’t know how he found time for his dental practice. Serendipity has a way of taking you down a path you never could have envisioned. In 1954, while hiking and fishing at Green Lake, Don and Jim Craig met a Mazama group climbing South Sister and Broken Top. Later, when the two arrived home, they made a quick trip to the top of the Pacific Building in downtown Portland where the Mazamas office was located at the time. They spoke to Don Onthank, known as “Mr. Mazama,” and signed up for a Mt. Hood climb with Phyllis Neuberger as leader. During the climb snow conditions were such that they did a sitting glissade down to Silcox Hut. They had become Mazamas! Don’s first wife Sibyl supported his passion and joined him when she could. Many times in his journals he noted, after a climb was logged, “I owe Sibyl.” Don’s daughter Kim Henson remembers her father as a man who loved the outdoors, especially the mountains, and shared this love with his family. Kim told me, “So many of my best childhood memories involve the Mazamas.” When Kim was too small to make a climb, Sibyl and Marilyn Craig and their small children would hold down the fort at camp while Jim Craig and Don climbed. By the age of 8, Kim found herself roped to her father and making her first climb. When the time came for Kim to make her official Mazama climb up Broken Top, she was 11 years old
Don Eastman. Photo: Mazama Archives.
and one climb away from getting her 10 peak award. Don took her out of school for a day and they climbed Mt. Thielsen so she was able to receive the award at that year’s annual banquet. Don enjoyed leading climbs and derived great pleasure from the detailed planning. He was a cautious leader and instilled trust in those who climbed with him. The people he met climbing, skiing and serving on committees he considered some of his best friends. Vera Dafoe met Don when she took the 1959 Mazama Basic Climbing School. She recounted a memorable (non-Mazama) trip to the Swiss Alps in 1974 with her husband Carmie, Don and Sibyl Eastman, Jim and Marilyn Craig, and Clint and Dorothy Harrington. Don and Jim planned the trip for six people and purchased two Volkswagen Beetles—one orange and one yellow—to be picked up in Brussels and used for traveling in Europe, then shipped home. At the last minute, the party grew to eight, and you can imagine how crowded they were with their luggage, duffel bags, climbing gear, ice axes, and packs! The primary goal of the trip was to hike the historic Haute Route of the Swiss Alps with an overnight side trip into Italy. Sibyl and Marilyn dropped the climbers off at the trailhead and drove the cars back to Zermatt. The first night the climbers stopped at the quaint Chanrion Hutte and the second night at the larger Vignetta Hutte. The first two days were sunny, but by the afternoon of the third day they were socked in.
Our schedule wouldn’t allow us to get stranded at a high hut, so we eliminated the Italian detour and added to our day three what would have been our fourth trekking day,” Vera recalls. “By the time darkness fell we were worn out and still struggling through glacier rock debris under the west side of the Matterhorn. We could see the lights of our immediate goal, the Schoenbiel Hutte, half a mile away. That’s when we gave up to reality and made an unplanned, unpleasant bivouac. No dinner, no sleeping bags. The clouds lifted and a very cold, clear night took over. Still, we had survived and we had done the Haute Route! Prior to this trip, Don and Jim had climbed the Matterhorn by the Hornli Ridge route. This time, they went over the pass to Italy to engage guides and climb the longer, more difficult south-side route. When they reached the Italian summit, the weather indicated it would be better to descend the shorter north-side route. So Don and Jim climbed a Matterhorn traverse. Carmie and Vera climbed the Matterhorn from Zermatt the same day—Swiss Liberation Day—Aug. 1. There were fireworks and celebrations in
the town that evening. Jim Craig became Don’s best friend. “For over 30 years, Don Eastman and I have not only been friends, we have entrusted each other with our lives by sharing a climbing rope while summiting glacial mountains,” Jim wrote. In 1955, when not very skilled at climbing, Don and Jim were supposed to meet the climb leader Bill Oberteuffer and climbing party at their bivouac on Glacier Peak. They took the wrong ridge and ended up, at dark, across the valley, far from the party’s campfire. They failed to catch the party the next morning. However, they did find a parachute cord left for them to belay up the glacier and around the rock pinnacle near the top, arriving at the summit just as the party was leaving. “Obie” wasn’t too happy with them. Climbing presents many challenges. One, which could have been fatal, occurred during Don’s last climb on Mt. Rainier via the Nisqually Ice Falls. Just below the last ice cliff, before the summit snowfield, the party stopped for lunch. While they were sitting there, a portion of the wall caved in and large blocks of ice fell down among the climbers, crushing packs and creating pandemonium. Not wanting to alarm his parents, Don never mentioned this, but he did write it up and his parents, unfortunately, managed to read about it! In a 2007 interview with Tim Kaye, Don describes his climb up the Devil’s Tower in Wyoming with an experienced guide: What really made the climb possible was that we could get in the gully between ridges and find enough crevasses or cracks and footholds to make our way up through there. But then we had to cross
continued on next page June/2014—21
Don Eastman. Photo: Mazama Archives.
We Were Mazamas, continued from previous page over to get a little bit to the east because we were blocked and couldn’t go any further. My guide said, ’Follow me,’ and so we went across a ledge and got over about 30 feet, when the ledge ended, and I looked straight down hundreds of feet. Over on the other side of the gap instead of a ledge being there, there was a kind of a wall with a groove in it ... and up above, there was a ledge. We had to jump (from) that four inch wide ledge we were standing on and grab that upper one with our hands, swing our feet over there against that rock wall and then pull ourselves up. My guide had done it quite a few times so he knew how to do it and went over and climbed up on a ledge right above this crack. Then it was my turn. I didn’t think too much of that! I’ve climbed lots of mountains but I didn’t like
22 —Mazama Bulletin
that at all. He had a belay on me and so I had to go to that same place and jump across that thirty inch gap to that rock and grab the top with my hands. I did, but I couldn’t find any place to put my feet to help lift myself up onto that ledge and I couldn’t do it with only my hands. So the guide gave me a little pull with the rope and I made it. Then, coming down, we just rappelled right over that. Some of the last major climbs Don and Jim made were in 1984. They summited the Gross Glockner, the highest peak in Austria, the Triglav, the highest peak in the former Yugoslavia and Mt. Olympus, the highest peak in Greece. Don’s love of the natural world and sharing that love with others continued after he stopped climbing mountains. He began his second professional career as a photographer
after retiring from his dental practice. My mother, Priscilla Mosser, met widowed Don Eastman on a Native Plant Society hike in the Columbia River Gorge, where they were both photographing wildflowers. Don was determined to capture as many plants on film as possible and, eventually, my mother joined him in that hunt. Their search resulted in the publication of Don’s book, Rare and Endangered Plants of Oregon, in 1990. They traveled all over the world photographing nature, cities and people, and made a career selling these images to publishers of catalogs, magazines, postcards and travel guides. They retired in 2008, but that didn’t keep Don inside. He enjoyed going on long walks almost every day until last year, and his generous spirit and love of the outdoors remain undiminished.
Mazama Families The Mazama Families Committee rolled out three major initiatives last month. First, a series of conditioning hikes offered in preparation for a late summer South Sisters climb kicked off with 14 people participating in a hike to Wahkeena Springs. Despite the intermittent rain, a fantastic time was had by the kids (and adults!). In general, families hiking attendance has been stout, with two in-town hikes having more than twenty participants each; and each of the upcoming kids conditioning hikes has enough applicants to split into two events! More hike leaders are needed, so please talk to Bob Murphy (families@mazamas.org) if you are interested in helping out. Next, a three-part climbing movement class taught by Bob Dolan, who was a sponsored youth competitive climber, held over three consecutive weeks, was completely sold out. Among other elements, the kids improved their climb technique by learning how to maintain balance while moving gracefully on vertical rock.
Third was a three-part family backpacking series, featuring an in-town orientation to cover gear and planning, an easy one-night/two-day backpack, and a more committed and rigorous three-day/two-nighter. The events are geared to kid participation in terms of planning and camp craft. They are aimed at novice backpackers, though all are welcome. To register for part or the entire backpacking series, go to tinyurl.com/BP-series-2014. For more information, please contact families@mazamas.org or visit www. mazamafamilies.org Additionally, the committee held a formal meeting mid-month, discussing work done by the various subcommittees and planning additional activities, including a Mazama-approved familyoriented mountaineering course. This includes class sessions, which will meet one evening and one weekend per month for nine months, starting in September. The course is intended for kids ages 8 and older and their parents, and it represents a perfect way for the entire
little steps lead to BIG STEPS family to learn the skills needed for Mazama A- and B-level climbs. If you are interested in helping with the class and/or learning more, emailfamilies@ mazamas.org. The last event we want to highlight this month is the 2nd Annual Rooster Rock BBQ & Climb on Saturday, July 19. Last year we had 10 kids successfully summit Rooster Rock, and this year we hope to have even more fun as we enjoy what promises to be an extraordinary day! Each child will have an assistant climb alongside him or her; the helper will also spider rappel the kids back to terra firma. Parents are encouraged to participate as well. There will be a MMC skill practice for all parents and kids in advance. For more information and approval to participate, please email Craig Martin at cmci.construct@gmail. com. We hope to see you and your kids at an upcoming activity, which you may find at www.mazamafamilies.org!
Family hike at Wahkeena Falls.
Accident on Zebra Zion A Fall on Morning Glory Wall
You can just spot Noon and Forrest on a ledge right in the middle of Morning Glory Wall. Photo: Vaqas Malik.
by Sarah Bradham It was Sunday, May 4. The Advanced Rock class had been in full swing for two months. This would be the second weekend the students would spend at Smith Rock State Park honing their leadclimbing skills. The day dawned sunny and clear and Forrest Koran, an AR student, headed out to the Morning Glory wall with Noon Pokaratsiri, his instructor for the day. The plan was to climb Zebra Zion (the entire route is called Zion, combining Zebra and Lion’s Chair, but it is routinely referred to as Zebra Zion—our own Jeff Thomas holds the first ascents of these routes), a very popular and well-known multi-pitch trad route. There are a few variations, and Forrest chose the 5.6 traverse sport route to start. They were feeling lucky that the area wasn’t overly crowded, even though it was typically a pretty popular one. 24 —Mazama Bulletin
The first two pitches were uneventful. The second pitch is considered the crux, with a 5.10 roof right off the belay, then a nice 5.8 hand-to-fist crack. As they moved up to pitch 3, Forrest and Noon, in a bit of foreshadowing, talked about a rescue “scenario” they had run through in the classroom portion of AR. It was based on the 3rd pitch of this route—a very run-out knobby traverse. They both agreed that executing a rescue here would not be very fun. Making their way up to pitch 4 involved climbing up a slab to a bolted anchor. Forrest set out on the final pitch, leading onto a traverse leftwards from the anchor, before the route would turn upward once again. The first part of the pitch seemed heavily chalked up and very polished. He was feeling tentative at this point. He had gotten in two pieces. The first, a black Alien, and the second, two lobes of a size .3 BD x4. He chose to protect with small cams over nuts out of concern over dislodging gear in a
pendulum fall. The first piece was okay. The second piece was psych pro at best. He was 15 feet from his belayer and had just pulled up onto a ledge to stand on. He doesn’t know what happened next, but he remembers falling. And hitting the slab below. The pieces had pulled. He was hanging on the low-angle slab just below the bolt anchor where he started pitch four. He started conversing with Noon. He was in an out. His mind was a little muddled. He didn’t remember losing consciousness but Noon, a trauma nurse (just the kind of person you want to have on hand in an accident), told him he had been unresponsive for five minutes. He dangled 30 feet below Noon. When the accident happened, she had the presence of mind to lock off the belay while finding her phone and calling 911. Rescue was activated. Now came the waiting game. Forrest doesn’t remember having pain. There was a lot of blood coming from his elbow but he wasn’t particularly concerned about that. It was his ankle that he was
“Some things are more dangerous than others, and I’ll be thinking harder about what’s worth doing for the position or the quality of climbing. I’ll also be more willing to punt leads to a more experienced partner when I’m not confident that I can protect adequately.”
worried about. Although it didn’t hurt, it looked swollen and seemed to be at an odd angle. He was a little nervous about his spine. Had he hit hard enough to do damage? Behind the scenes the rescue mechanism was in action. A hasty team of two rescuers raced up Cocaine Gully and one rapped down from the top. Once on scene, the rescuer strapped Forrest’s neck into a C-collar and stayed with him for the duration of the rescue. Forrest began to experience pain from his harness. He had been hanging for two hours before the first rescuer was on scene. Even though he was on a relatively low angle wall, all his weight was still on the harness. The leg loops were cutting into his legs and there was a significant amount of pressure around his waist. The rescuer helped him get a foot stirrup setup so he could stand up on his good leg and take some pressure off his harness. This was an incredible relief. Meanwhile, the larger rescue party was heading up Misery Ridge. Once at the top of the pitch they drilled several bolts and set up a 7-1 haul system and, using a 600foot rope, the extrication from the wall began. They lowered down a litter, packaged Forrest inside, strapped him down and then lowered the litter to the base of the wall. From the time of the accident to the time he was at the base of the wall was five hours. Now came the evac debate—ground or helicopter? While he had been unresponsive for five minutes, since coming to he was cognizant of his surroundings and the situation. Forrest didn’t think his injuries were that severe. He was concerned about the cost of a helicopter ride. He advocated for a ground rescue. However, in the end it was decided to fly him out. Six hours after the accident he was at St. Charles Hospital in Bend. He was evaluated, run through CT scans and x-rays, bandaged up and released within four hours of arriving at the hospital. Forrest spent two weeks on crutches with a sprained ankle and had a bandaged elbow. He suffered a minor concussion from the fall. His CAMP helmet cracked upon impact and protected his head. It will be retired, along with the Alien and x4 cam that popped when he fell. Upon reviewing the accident he’s still not completely sure what went wrong. Looking back he feels as though he had spent very little time climbing outside in the months leading up to AR, instead spending his time during the winter months in the rock gym. He was not as experienced in the outdoors as he was indoors and his judgement for evaluating routes and hazards had yet to be fully honed. He had been tentative setting out on the fourth pitch traverse. He remembers the route looked more polished than he was comfortable with. He had a very difficult time finding cam placements and he knew that his pieces weren’t good. They were better than nothing, but he wasn’t confident in them. Properly extended, he thinks that passive
gear would likely have been more secure. When he pulled up on the ledge it’s possible that his foot slipped on the polished rock and then he was in free fall. His takeaways from the event are that he wants to step back a bit in grade and get more experience outdoors. He knows he’s a strong climber. He’ll get out to Smith again starting in June. He’ll tackle some 5.7s and 5.8s. He’ll follow. He’ll learn more, honing not only his technical skills but his comfort on rock. He has plans this summer to get some time in at Leavenworth
before attempting the East Ridge of Forbidden Peak. If that goes well, he hopes to tackle the Torment-Forbidden traverse in late season. And there’s a rock route on Mt. Stuart that is calling his name. As Forrest looks towards his future plans and goals he said, “some things are more dangerous than others, and I’ll be thinking harder about what’s worth doing for the position or the quality of climbing.. I’ll also be more willing to punt leads to a more experienced partner when I’m not confident that I can protect adequately.”
Noon and Forrest as they await rescue. Photo: Vaqas Malik.
Go Hiking! Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike. Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike 20s & 30s Mazamas are also hiking: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions. To lead a hike in July, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.
HK B2 Jun 01 (Sun) Angels Rest. Jim Selby 828508-5094. A evening hike to Angels with stunning views and stunning late spring wildflowers. Eat a snack on top and still get back to Gateway by 8:30 p.m. 4.6 miles 1,584 ft. Dr. 42 Gateway 4:30 p.m. MU HK B2 Jun 01 (Sun) Saddle Mountain. Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. A relaxed hike up a coast range favorite. If clear, we should have ocean views. Flowers should be at their peak, and we will take time to identify and photograph them. Back by 4 p.m. 7.2 miles 1900 ft. Dr. 96 Target/185th 9 a.m.
HK B2 Jun 07 (Sat) Elk Mountain Loop. Margaret Smith 503-720-6795. Hike steep Elk trail to hanging meadow which will (hopefully) be a wild flower quilt of color. 8.5 miles 2950 ft. Dr. 60 Target/185th 8 a.m. HK C2 Jun 07 (Sat) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This is great wilderness hike. Lots of waterfalls and steady up hill for 4,100 feet. Call to reserve a spot. At 6:45 a.m. they will open up! 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 7 a.m.
HK C2 Jun 01 (Sun) Table Mountain Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Up Heartbreak and down the West Ridge. Lunch with one of the best views in the gorge. 10 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway Park and Ride 8 a.m.
HK A2 Jun 08 (Sun) Ramona Falls Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Come for a nice hike through the woods past basalt cliffs along peaceful Ramona Creek to lacy Ramona Falls. 7.3 miles 810 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU
HK C2 Jun 02 (Mon) Nesmith Point. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. We will climb steeply up to Corkies Corner then up through woods to Nesmith Point. Through the woods back to the corner, then home. Some off-trail travel. 9.8 miles 3,810 ft. Dr. 60 MMC 8 a.m. MU
HK B2 Jun 08 (Sun) Scar Mountain. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com. Lovely, quiet trails off Highway 22 lead to a viewpoint atop Trapper Butte, then to the dramatic clifftop of Scar Mountain. Great views of the Central Cascades on a clear day. 13.4 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 264 Airport park & ride, Salem 8 a.m. MU
HK B1.5 Jun 04 (Wed) McNeil Point on the flanks of Mt. Hood. Tom Davidson (503 756-5826// tedclimbs@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Let’s hope that the snow has melted enough to get to the trailhead. From there, we’ll see some early wildflowers, bear grass sprouting and glorious views. Of course, there is the problem of residual snow on the trail so bring change of clothing, poles, gaiters and traction devices. This is an amazing hike and plan on a long day. 9 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 100 TH MMC 7:30 a.m. MU
HK C2 Jun 08 (Sun) Hardy Mr. Hamilton. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Up the panoramic west Hardy Ridge to the summit and lunch. Down the east ridge and across to summit Mt. Hamilton. Note: multiple birthday participants; expensive gifts encouraged. Free day parking (no Discover Pass required). 14 miles 3,400 ft. Dr. 92 Gateway 8 a.m.
HK C2 Jun 06 (Fri) Cedar Swamp/Herman Creek. Dyanne Foster 503-267-8937. Wilderness Area— Limit 12. Come and enjoy beautiful Herman Creek with abundant falls and some creek crossings to the massive cedars along the upper trail and top. No gators in this swamp! 14.6 miles 2,640 ft. Dr. 78 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Jun 07 (Sat) Falls Creek Falls. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Follow lower trail to base of three-tier waterfall, then take upper trail to view it from above. 6.3 miles 1,150 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway P&R 8 a.m.
26 —Mazama Bulletin
HK B2 Jun 13 (Fri) Bald Mountain via Lolo Pass. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. We hike down from Lolo Pass on a lightly used portion of the PCT past large mountain hemlocks, bear grass and rhododendrons and encounter great views of Mt. Hood above and the valley of the Muddy Fork of the Sandy River below. 7 miles 1600 ft. Dr. 100 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A1 Jun 14 (Sat) Beacon Rock. Billie Goodwin 503-254-6121. If you’ve always wanted to walk up Beacon Rock at a slow pace today is the day. There are no State parking or hiking fees. This is the second largest basalt monolith in the world. We will stop for a snack or lunch at the newly remodeled Char Burger in Cascade Locks after the walk up. 2 miles 600 ft. Dr. 75 Gateway 9 a.m.
Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule. Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m. Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time two hours. 5 miles, 500 feet Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark). Group leaves the MMC promptly at 6 p.m. HK A2 Jun 14 (Sat) Triple Falls/Latourell Falls. Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail.com. Two fun waterfall hikes. We’ll pass by six different waterfalls. Please e-mail leader if you plan to go. 6.4 miles 1200 ft. Dr. 70 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Jun 14 (Sat) Hunchback Mountain to Great Pyramid. Cloudy Sears 503-695-5947. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Enjoy rhododendrons and bear grass along the trail. Hike to a lovely viewpoint. 9 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 74 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Jun 14 (Sat) Salmon Butte. Deborah Gant gant.deb@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. A nice climb through old-growth forest with views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson and the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. Blooming Rhododendrons and wildflowers await. 11 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 90 Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Jun 15 (Sun) Herman Creek-PCT. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This hike uses a shuttle. We start at the Herman Creek TH, hike along the Herman Creek Bridge Trail to join up with the PCT and go to Cascade Locks. On the way we visit both Pacific Falls and Dry Creek Falls, as well as the interesting Hermann Creek Pinnacles. 6.2 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 82 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU
Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and reminders of hikes you have RSVPd for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at http://www.meetup.com/mazama-hiking/
HK C2 Jun 15 (Sun) West Zig Zag Mountain. Mitch Auerbach 503-281-4809. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. An excellent close in hike that offers good ridge top views, plus a good workout on a mostly well-graded trail. Optional post-hike stop at the nearby ZigZag Inn for world famous marionberry pie. 11 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 76 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Jun 20 (Fri) Bald Butte Hike. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo. com. Exploratory hike up Bald Butte. Wildflowers will be out as well as beautiful views of the Hood River Valley orchards and the major peaks such as Mts. Rainier, Hood, St. Helens and Adams. Could be windy so bring appropriate clothing. 8.4 miles 2300 ft. Dr. 154 miles MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Jun 21 (Sat) Ramona Falls loop. Deborah Gant gant.deb@gmail.com. Wilderness Area— Limit 12. The rushing waters of the Sandy River and blooming rhododendrons will likely accompany us along this delightful early summer hike within the Mt. Hood Wilderness. 7.3 miles 810 ft. Dr. 92 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Jun 21 (Sat) Eagle Creek- (Cross-Over. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness Area— Limit 12. Call to reserve a spot. The space will open up at 6:45! This is long but great hike with waterfalls and a tunnel to walk through. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 70 TH Gateway 7 a.m. HK C1.5 Jun 21 (Sat) Trapper Creek Loop (Observation Peak). Nancy Goering ngoering@ att.net. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Lovely long hike through Trapper Creek Wilderness to a fourpeak view on Observation Peak. The pace will be inclusive of those who like a long hike but don’t want to push to keep up with jack rabbits all day. Email leader to ensure a spot, or take your chances at Gateway. 13.3 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 116 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Jun 22 (Sun) Fifteenmile Creek Trail Unclimb. Rick Amodeo 503-804-9397. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. It’s a bit of a drive, but it’s worth it. This is a unique hike in a beautiful area on the eastern edge of the Cascades. We will coast downhill to a nice lunch along the cool banks of the creek in the cedars. The return is all uphill to our refreshments in the car. 10.2 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 160 TH Gateway Garage 8 a.m. HK C2 Jun 22 (Sun) Hunchback Mountain to Great Pyramid. David Nelson dkbmnelson@ gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. Will start hiking from the Zigzag Ranger Station. Steady elevation gain at first to a great viewpoint. We’ll keep hiking along a ridge that has several more view options and ends at the Great Pyramid which juts out above the Salmon River Valley. Contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com to register your spot. 9 miles 3,060 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8 a.m.
HK C2 Jun 25 (Wed) Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista). Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. Wonderful views and hopefully great flowers. Many opportunities for photos. The trail is a bit rough; good boots and poles recommended. Back by 5 p.m. 7.5 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 70 MMC 9 a.m. HK B2 Jun 28 (Sat) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. June is a great time to hike Hamilton for flowers, falls and views. We’ll take our time, more like 1.5 going up, and still be done early afternoon. I have a Discover Pass for parking. 7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88 State Park Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Jun 28 (Sat) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness Area— Limit 12. Very steady climb for over 3,000 feet then changes to a gentle ascent to North Lake. Most of hike is in the shade with a few gorgeous viewpoints. We’ll bask in the sun by the lake for lunch. If it’s a warm day you could even consider a swim or at least wading to cool off your feet. 13.2 miles 4,160 ft. Dr. 88 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK A1.5 Jun 29 (Sun) Twin Lakes. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness Area— Limit 12. Loop hike including two lakes near Mt. Hood and a vista with a view of Mt. Hood. No pre-registration for this hike. 8.6 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 120 TH Gateway P&R 8 a.m. HK B1.5 Jun 29 (Sun) Nick Eaton-Gorton Creek Loop. Diana Forester 503-288-7782. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. A leisurely hike up the often steep Nick Eaton trail over to Gorton Creek. If it is sunny and not too windy, we will go down to Indian Point before returning to the cars via Gorton Creek. Plan on a later return to town to give time for this. Hike will be posted in Classic Mazamas page too. 8–8.5 miles 2,600–2,750 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Jun 29 (Sun) Devil’s Peak via Cool Creek. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. This hike offers a great workout. Hike up the Cool Creek trail to the old fire lookout. Have lunch, explore the lookout and enjoy the views before hiking back down. Great views of Mts. Hood, Adams and Jefferson. Contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com to preregister your spot. 8.2 miles 3200 ft. Dr. 84 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Jun 30 (Mon) Wildcat Mountain. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Wilderness Area—Limit 12. 6 miles 500 ft. Dr. 80 Gateway 8:30 a.m.
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU=Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
June/2014—27
Betties go Mazamas! by Kati Mayfield What happens when two organizations with funny names join up? A grand old time! On Saturday, May 17, a group of middle-school girls from Jason Lee Middle School came to the Mazamas through our partner, Betties360 (www.betties360.org). Betties360 works to inspire confidence, well-being and community in girls through action sports, outdoor adventure and life skill education. Through a partnership with Girls Inc. of NW Oregon, Betties runs multi-week leadership development training programs with girls in public schools, each of which culminates in an outdoor or active excursion of the girls’ choosing. The Betties get to try their hands at everything from windsurfing to rock climbing to snowshoeing, and the Jason Lee group chose to spend their day at the MMC learning to climb and belay. Seven Betties who had never even seen a climbing harness before got to learn about equipment, master figure-8 knots, practice belay commands, and climb climb climb! And, thanks to the Mazama and Betties360 volunteers— Suzi Rubino, Shayna Rehberg, Jennifer Van Houten, Andi Gervais, Virginia Tarango, Haley Mays, Carrie McCormick and Erin Fitzgerald—the girls were confidently belaying one another by the end of the day. The Mazamas and Betties360 first explored a partnership a few years ago, and we hope to gain more momentum and volunteer support to develop an ongoing relationship. We look forward to having the Betties back at the MMC or on the trails soon! Stay tuned for more info or contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas. org, if you’d be interested in volunteering.
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS May 10, Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows. Leader: Gregory Willmarth, Asst: Jennifer Van Houten. Stephanie Buer, Sebastian Button, Lori Coyner, Jason Juhala, George Kapllani, Richard Orr, Kristofel Simbajon, Joe Westersund, Dean Willmert May 11, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Erin Wirtz. Nick Beyer, Sujay Deshmukh, Cheryl Frankenfield, Kirsty Hall, Sara Holmes, Karthik Jambunathan, Ryan Johnson, Evan Johnson, Andrea Kowalski, Trozell Weaver May 16, Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Andrew Holman. Sarah Dawa Root, Margaret McCarthy, Todd Perimon May 17, Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Gregory Willmarth, Asst: Martin Gillen. Scott Britell, Tammie Gillen, Kate Hibschman, Jim Miller, Greg Ragland, Ryan Reed, Adam Russell, Ben Stabley
Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential.
Oregon Wildflowers App Identify Flowers on the Go! by Scott Mock On May 15 I was lucky enough to receive a free Oregon Wildflowers app download code by responding to a Mazama Facebook post. The timing on receiving this app couldn’t of been better! I subsequently hiked Dog Mountain on Saturday, May 17 with my daughter, and we were constantly using it. Not only were we able to identify a lot of wildflowers, but we also learned a lot. For example, now I know there are 4 different types of Balsamroot in Oregon. This app contains 947 wildflowers/plants for Oregon alone. It allows you to search by region, color, habitat, size, flowering month, even by how many petals. There are 3–4 pictures of each plant, along with detailed information. The app also contains a wealth of wildflower information, including flower basics, habitats, natives and nonnatives, plant families, suggested wildflower destinations, and websites. One website I found useful is www. oregonwildflowers.org, which contains a color-coded map showing blooming times. Once installed, the app doesn’t require cellular coverage, which is great considering the spotty coverage in the gorge. I wish the app would specify if the individual plants are edible or not, but that’s not a huge deal to me. Overall, great informative, and very easy to use app. I would highly recommend it to others. –Editor’s note: The Oregon Wildflowers app was created in conjunction with the Oregon Flora Project at Oregon State University and High Country Apps. We would like to thank them for making promo codes available to our membership. The app is available on the Apple and Android platform. If you would like to have the opportunity of future giveaways, follow us on Facebook.
MAZAMA Bulletin
Yoga
503-227-2345 • mazama.ads@mazamas.org
Retail Advertising Rates Numerous sizes available. Full sizes/prices: mazamas.org/about-us/advertising-options/ Options include: • Quarter page: $110 (b&w), $135 (color) • Third page: $155 (b&w), $185 (color) • Half page: $220 (b&w), $260 (color) • Full page: $310 (b&w), $360 (color) Classified rate: $4 per line (approx. 70 letters). 10 percent discount for 12-month agreement
Alignment Focus Joy of movement
Eugene Lewins LMT 16438
YogaWithEugene.com 503-939-9657
June/2014—29
Welcome New Mazamas! Dua Akshay—Mt. St. Helens Laura Bax—Mt. Hood William Dash—South Sister Rachel Davidson—Mt. Shasta Larry Davidson—Mt. Shasta Patrick Gunnink—South Sister Jerry Hargrove—Mt. Hood Bruce Hudkins—Mt. Shasta
Joshua Hydeman—Mt. Hood Vishwanath Kusugal—Mt. St. Helens Jay Lundenberg—Mt. Hood Angelika Schaefer—Kilimanjaro Ashish Shavarna—Mt. St. Helens Jennifer Stout—Mt. St. Helens Rosemary Strunk—Mt. Rainier Lincoln Wildgrube—Mt. Shasta
NEW REINSTATED DECEASED
Reinstatements Elizabeth Cole (2010), Eric Dolezal (2012), John Frieh (2010), Stuart Hayman (1983), Donald Kemper (1974), Don Kennard (1994), Seeger Fisher (2011), Wes McNamara (1983), Mark Mowrey (1993), Frank Mungeam (2002), Thomas Plawman (1963), Elizabeth Puskar (2013), Jennifer Stout (2008), Chris Valencia (2011)
April 30, 2013: 3,255 April 30, 2014: 3,264
+ + -
16 14 0
+
30
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)
Exclusive Community Partner Sale/
Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.
June 26-29, 2014 20% off any purchase 30% off purchases of $150-$299 40% off purchases $300 and up
30 —Mazama Bulletin
Mountain Hardwear
Bro
SW Tay lor
Par k
722 SW Taylor St. Portland, OR 97205 503-226-6868
adw ay
Must show valid proof of membership. Valid in-store only.
Mountain Hardwear Portland
Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama. ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.
Come by and enter to win a backpack full of gear!
The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter–President; Terry Donahe–Treasurer; Meg Goldberg–Secretary; Judith Baker, Amy Mendenhall, Heather Campbell, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber. Lee Davis, Executive Director. Absent: Sojo Hendrix–Vice-President Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m. The minutes of the April 8, 2014 meeting minutes were approved with two corrections: The cost for the sexual abuse and misconduct policy are: Option 1: $13,796 ($3MM Limit) and Option 2: $11,982 ($1MM Limit) Taxes and Fees $565 + 2 percent of premium. The motion for Mazama Families passed on a 5 to 2 vote. Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg. There were 16 applications for membership, 14 reinstatements, 0 resignations, and 0 deceased with a net change of 30 members. Total membership as of April 30, 2014 was 3,264 showing a net increase of 9 members since April 30, 2013 Treasurer’s Report: Filed for audit. 2nd Quarter Reforecast There is an anticipated overall deficit in the operational budget of $14,456, including new insurance rates and packages at $7,500 and the PAF shortfall. There is a change in the grants income due to the Wilson grant, a slight increase of foundation support ($1,090), a decrease in staff funding plan due to switching from the SVP fellow ($10,000) to a summer intern ($2,500), and a decrease in planned capital maintenance already planned during the 1st quarter. All of these funds are from board and/or donor restricted accounts. Overall, net anticipated change in cash position $13,044 positive to budget. This is $12,000 higher than last quarter, and due mostly to enforcing conservative spending in operations and choices in the spending plan such as capital improvements.
Upsides: Overall, education programs are reforecasting $3,509 favorable to budget. This is due to lower than budget spending by ICS, high receipts for BCEP plus anticipated summer BCEP receipts, and planned expansion of summer Skillbuilders. MMC & Operations is reforecasting $5,694 favorable to budget, largely due to spending choices and austerity measures to offset higher program costs elsewhere. Downsides: Portland Alpine Fest, anticipated net was positive $5,150, final receipts show total net loss of $15,614; reporting $17,753 unfavorable to budget.
May 13, 2014
Expedition Committee is reforecasting $4,200 unfavorable to budget due to cancellation of the class. Membership and Services is reforecasting $6,850 unfavorable to budget due to lower than anticipated membership numbers and increased production costs of the publications. Executive Director’s Report—Oral Report by Lee Davis. Lee discussed continuing work with committees on refining the Mazamas Strategic Plan. Other updates were: • Ice Wall Fundraiser and Project Management is now at $29,000. • Beacon Rock Film Fundraising Event April 26 was successful and raised $6,000 • Lodge Parking Lot/USFS update. There is a meeting on May 22 with the US Forest Service to review NEPA requirements for the project. • The Mazamas Foundation is going through a series of strategic planning meetings. Terry Donahe suggested via email that Mazamas should do something to help the Sherpa in Nepal after the tragic accidents this season on Mt. Everest. Lee requests council approve a grant to provide CISM services in Nepal for the Sherpa via the Khumbu Climbing Center. Motion by Terry Donahe to authorize $4,000 for relief for Sherpas and their families affected by the avalanche. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved. Lee’s complete report is on page 3. Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted • Adventurous Young Mazamas • Climbing Committee (oral report by Bill McLoughlin see below) • Expedition • Financial Affairs • Old Timers’ Committee • Outings Committee • Risk Management • Strategic Planning Committee • Trail Trips Committee No report submitted • Outreach
Amy Mendenhall moved to accept the consent agenda. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Regular Committee Reports Bill McLoughlin, Chair of Climb Committee gave council an overview of the revising and updating of Climb Leader Continuing Education. The Climbing Committee is looking at better ways to recruit
and retain leaders to meet the increasing demand for climbs. The Committee is looking at putting more emphasis on leadership skills and realigning the technical training. Some updates are: Leader Development retains the existing requirements. Leader continuing education will eliminate current recertification for CPR, MFA, and avalanche and mechanical systems and establish new criteria for recertification and continuing leader education; redesign leader updates with 2 leader updates per year, bring in guest trainers for specific topics, set an ongoing and predictable schedule to refresh the three critical skills plus a segment strictly on leadership and group dynamics. The continuing education frequency that would cover the three basic skills over a four year interval. A leader would have two opportunities to take a section every 18 months. Re-evaluate the Climb Committee and club financial support for Wilderness First Responder Training. Amad Dortataj—Nominating Committee Initiatives. Amad is requesting EC approval on implementing online voting beginning in 2014. An RFQ was sent out to 6 companies and 5 responded as to the process and cost of setting up an online voting process. Amad estimates a cost of $2,500 for each year going forward. The ballots and nominating information will still be sent to members via US Mail which costs about $9,000. There will be some impact on staff. Judith Baker moves to approve up to $2,500 to put an e-vote system in place. Motion seconded. Motion fails (2 votes for 3; votes against; 2 abstain). Action: Not approved. Nominating Committee is also looking into creating an advisory committee that would bring mission critical skills and expertise to EC. For example if there was a need for financial expertise that was lacking on EC, the Advisory Council would fill that gap. EC is supportive of the committee continuing to develop the Advisory Council. A motion was not needed at this time. Heather Campbell and Bronson Potter volunteered to be part of a task force to help with the development of the AC. New Business Erik Swanson: Engagement organizing at Mazamas. Erik is a recent graduate of ICS and works in the area of Public Engagement and Strategic Planning. Erik gave short presentation on Engagement organizing at the Mazamas. Meeting adjourned at 9 p.m. Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday June 10, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.
June/2014—31
Exciting Mazama Grant News on Page 15. Apply Today!
Margaret McCarthy belays Larry Beck through the Pearly Gates. Photo: Andrew Holman