August 2016 Mazama Magazine

AUGUST 2016 • VOL. 98 | NO.8

The Issue

A CLIMBER GONE TO THE DOGS FINDING THE NUBBINS SLAG HEAPS OF THE CASCADES BEACON ROCK: THEN & NOW

Articles

Ascending to New Heights, p. 7 Finding the Nubbins, p. 9 Canyoneering: A New Mazama Mini-Course, p. 10 Slag Heaps of the Cascades, p. 12 Evolution of a Climber, p. 14 Rise of a Routesetter, p. 16 Documentary Film Upate: Beacon Rock—Then & Now, p. 19 A Climber Gone to the Dogs, p. 20 New Cams 2016, p. 26 Successes & Setbacks, p. 30 Portland Alpine Fest, p. 40 Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Director of Marketing & Communications • sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Assistant • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Monthly Columns

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 4 Executive Director's Report, p. 5 Mazama Lodge, p. 15 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 25 Mazama Families, p. 28 Successful Climbers, p. 33 Outings, p. 34 Classic Mazamas, p. 35 Trail Trips, p. 36 Membership Report, p. 25 Executive Council, p. 38

ADVERTISER INDEX

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org; Committee Members: Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, Michael Vincerra, Lacy Turner. (publications_group@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas. org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Active Adventures, p. 29 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 23 CAMP, p. 6 Centered in Motion, p. 37 Classifieds, p. 34 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 15 Embark Adventures, p. 18 & 35 Green Trails Maps, p. 2 Icebreaker, p. 8 Montbell, p. 39 Mountain Shop, p. 28 Next Adventure, p. 24 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 7 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 23 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, 8

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Above: Stephen HIrai on the north face of Vesper Peak (Washington). Photo: Jesse Applegate.

Cover: Allison Legg on Mt. Hubris (California). Photo: Ben Stabley.

JULY 2016 3

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES HIKE LEADERS ONGOING Mazamas: are you enjoying participating regularly in hikes with us? Consider signing up to become a hike leader yourself !

Hike leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor. Choose your own schedule, and where you lead. If interested, contact volunteer@ mazamas.org

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES ONGOING

The Mazama Families program runs regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs. Hike Leaders receive basic leadership training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor. Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Bill Stein, billstein. rpcv@gmail.com.

AYM CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS ONGOING

Indoor rock climbing is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members

and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners.

Choose the climbing gym of your choice! Contact aym@ mazamas.org if you would be interested in hosting.

PROGRAMS COMMITEE OCTOBER–MAY

Our wonderful Programs Committee is looking for additional volunteers to help plan for and execute our weekly speaker series. Volunteers will prepare the auditorium for each show, interview the guest speaker, set up the projector, microphone, and sound system, make announcements, introduce the speaker (voluntary), control the lighting system, and, after the show collect and record donations, and store equipment and chairs.

Contact John Leary, Programs Chair, to learn more: learyj@ comcast.net

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST (PAF) ONGOING

Join the team that puts on the biggest event of the year!

We have opportunities for you to get involved with a long-term volunteer gig, or to drop in for a few hours. Visit the PAF website to express interest and learn more: portlandalpinefest.org/ volunteer/.

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN HIKE LEADER SEPT 2-5, 2016

Hey Hike Leaders! RTM is looking for another hike leader to join their ranks to co-lead a team on the 3-day Round the Mountain event. Hike Leaders receive free room and board at the beautiful Mazama Lodge in exchange for their leadership. If you’ve led for this event before, consider leading again! And if you haven’t, make 2016 your first year! Contact RTM Coordinator Shane Harlson, rtm@mazamas. org, if you’re interested.

KIDS CLIMB INSTRUCTORS NEEDED! ONGOING

Are you a fan of kids and a rock climbing expert? Do you have experience teaching climbing to kids? We’d love to hear from you! Both the Mazama Youth Outreach and Families programs have an ongoing need for enthusiastic rock instructors. Contact volunteer@mazamas.org.

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR FALL & SPRING

The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are seeking to add a new member to their

team who will coordinate and support UES volunteers, both team captains and day-of volunteers. If you are interested in helping out, please contact UES coordinators Meg Linza and Karen Graves,Margery. linza@providence.org or karengraves00@gmail.com

PARTNER VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITY: INSPIRING CONNECTIONS OUTDOORS ONGOING

The Sierra Club’s Inspiring Connections Outdoors (ICO) program creates opportunities through outdoor experiences for personal growth, lifestyle change, and leadership skill development. The program is seeking volunteers to lead and to chaperone day hikes for local youth. Join us for a meeting and volunteer orientation the first Thursday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the Sierra Club offices at 1821 SE Ankeny, or contact volunteer@mazamas.org for more information.

Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl.com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

SHARE YOUR STORY

JOIN OUR TEAM!

Have you done a climb, a backpack trip, foreign travel or any adventure that you would like to share with others? If so, the Mazamas Program Committee would be interested in you doing a program for us. Please contact John Leary leary.j@comcast.net 503-236-5475 or Dyanne Foster dyfozter@gmail.com 503-267-8937

The Mazamas is seeking a Volunteer & Leadership Development Manager and a Finance & Operations Manager. Applications are being accepted until August 3. Go to our website: tinyurl. com/MazEmployment to learn more.

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EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT

Protecting Our Public Lands & Promoting Responsible Recreation in the Mountains Our founders, Steele, Pittock, Glisan, Northrup, and many others, were leaders not just of the Mazamas, but also of Portland.

They were leaders of Oregon, and the Pacific Northwest, and they repeatedly did great things. They took actions to preserve our forests, to create national, state, and urban parks, all of which we are still using and experiencing today.

Their actions, the actions of the Mazamas, shaped much of what we take for granted, and some of the best characteristics of what we associate with living in the northwest today. Ask anyone moving to Portland, Bend, Seattle, or Hood River why they are moving here, and we know that easy access to outdoor experiences will be at the top of their list.

The very best parts of the character of Oregon and the Northwest are rooted in the outdoors. And we who live here regularly celebrate our unique ability to have intense and immersive wilderness experiences just an hour or two from our front door.

Today, the growth of our cities, fast changing technologies, and worn down infrastructure are changing what it feels like to live here, and to play outside in the Northwest. Aspects of our urban culture, like great food, and entertainment—which we all also love—are making Portland feel more like San Francisco than like a mountain town. Additionally, our communities are struggling to respond to challenges in healthcare, community development, and education. And most importantly, the very ownership of our public lands is under attack at the national level.

We at the Mazamas believe that many of these challenges facing our communities, and our environment, can be proactively resolved by making outdoor recreation a top priority in our states, and by encouraging new investments in our outdoor recreation

assets, infrastructure, and outdoor education. Simply put, we know that when people live an active outdoor lifestyle they are happier, healthier, and are more likely to support important conservation and outdoor education initiatives.

For several decades, the Mazamas have let others fight our battles at the regional and federal level. Today, and moving forward, we are investing in bringing your voice forward, the voice of the Mazamas. We are ensuring that your senators and representatives are fully aware of the problems we see, and engaging them in conversations about how the great outdoors can help us solve some of our biggest problems. We are telling them that, as Mazamas, and as Oregonians: ▶▶ We believe that secure and healthy public lands that are accessible to everyone for outdoor recreation are critically important to the health and well-being of our society. And we must stop current efforts to sell off our public lands to the states or private entities. ▶▶ We believe that shifting the primary purpose of our public lands away from resource extraction and towards outdoor recreation will help make all of our people mentally and physically happier, more engaged with their communities, and more likely to conserve and protect public lands in the future. ▶▶ And most authentically for the Mazamas: We believe that promoting youth outdoor education and responsible recreation across our state will create the stewards of tomorrow. We must work to ensure that the next generations live an active outdoor lifestyle, understand the value of public lands, and are inspired to care for and protect them in the future. ▶▶ The Mazamas are fully invested in this advocacy work because these issues are deeply important to our members,

Today, and moving forward we are investing in bringing your voice forward, the voice of the Mazamas. as well as most everyone in the Pacific Northwest, and because we know that these issues will have a direct effect on our ability to pursue our mission.

With strong support from our community, the Mazamas aim to organize the voices of responsible recreation, conservation, and the outdoor industry to make outdoor recreation a top priority for our state, and to inspire and fuel the national movement to elevate the value of outdoor recreation in our society.

In the last few months, Adam Baylor and I have been meeting with key leaders in the outdoor industry, with our conservation partners, with our federal legislature, and with the Governor’s office to bring awareness to these issues and to elevate this conversation across our region. If you have any questions, feedback or comments, please send them to me, or Adam Baylor at adam@mazamas.org.

Lee Davis Executive Director

The Mazamas were early supports of efforts to stop the sale and privatization of our public lands.

Please join us by visiting protectourpublicland.org and sign the petition there if you agree.

JULY 2016 5

Ascending to New Heights

P

by Kim Edger

"

lace gear. Get critiqued. Don't cry." This was my mantra heading into Advanced Rock (AR). Sure, I had worked hard over the prior year to improve my sport leading skills, start following trad and generally climb harder and push my grade outside and at the gym, all with the goal of getting into and succeeding in AR. But, this had all with been with friends. Now, it was going to be back to learning new skills and having strangers evaluate them.

The last time this happened was during Intermediate Climbing School (ICS). Despite that being over two years ago, some of the anxieties of that type of experience still felt fresh. From day one of AR, I realized I wasn't going to have to worry about any of that.

For one, all of my preparation had paid off. I had become a better climber, so I really could focus on the skills. But more importantly, every single assistant was extremely supportive and eager to help us learn. Even when the criticism was constructive, it never felt like criticism, just helpful feedback. From gear placement at Broughton, to high angle rescue skills at the MMC, to 'test' day at Horsethief, my skills and my confidence only got better.

By the end of Smith I, enough people said enough good things about my gear placement that the mantra changed to: "Place gear. Trust yourself. Go." By the end of Smith II, it was even shorter: "Just go!" I have no doubt this was because of the amount of time and energy the AR committee put into making the instructor/student pairings. I got to climb with some badass ladies and I aspire to be one next year while I follow some new trad leaders up 5.6s in approach shoes!

Unfortunately, Smith III didn't happen due to weather but we made the most of the falling clinic at Planet Granite.

Since I never got to the routes I'd planned for that weekend, I convinced an ICS friend to follow me up them. Leading Lycopodophyta (one of the very first routes I ever struggled up at Smith in the early days of ICS), Rabbit Stew and Moscow were a blast, even if I may have cursed a few times wondering how in the world Moscow could be a 5.6. It felt so good to feel so self sufficient! Not only self sufficient, but it also felt pretty good to know what to do to prevent a situation from getting worse when a couple next to us got stuck on what they thought was the second pitch of Bunny Face and had some crazy ideas of how they thought they should get out of it.

Of course, just when you feel comfortable, you head out on a trip that your climbing partner planned to City of Rocks,

Idaho, and get a reality check that a 5.7 isn't always quite the same everywhere. But thanks to his patience, I made it up a few, learned some lessons and had fun following him up some of the harder routes...so that I can lead them next year! One of my other goals was to make it to Prusik Peak this year. I did get there, but thanks to 40 degree temps, a small weather window and some snow, we opted to have me just follow, which was still super fun and good preparation for next time. The highlight (so far) though, was my first alpine trad lead on Mt. Hubris with an amazing Mazama team lead by Rebecca Madore, including swinging leads with Kerry Loehr, a fellow 2016 AR grad! Last April I stopped at Castle Crags on my way to San Francisco for a Wilderness First Aid class, did the approach hike and wistfully hoped to just climb it "someday".

Thanks to a great climbing partner and AR, a bit over a year later I got to be the first on the summit! The alpine rock to do list seems to get longer and more ambitious by the day. I’ve come a long way from “I’m only taking BCEP for the snow skills” and having my hand pried off the rock during my first rappel at Horsethief in 2013. I can’t wait to see what the future holds, but you can bet it will include some epic routes in the PNW as well as some well known (and some not so well known) spots in a few other countries!

JULY 2016 7

Capstone Cohort: Schooling Future Mazama Leaders

by Andy Peterson & Craig Karls In mid-May the 2016 Leadership Cohort gathered for the first session at the MMC. Each candidate encompassed vastly different leadership styles, skills, and experiences. One thing the cohort participants had in common was a recommendation by a Climb Leader. Each of us had earned a ticket in the door, but building leadership skills is no easy task and we all had a lot of interpersonal work ahead of us.

We had more questions than answers, and that feeling never changed throughout the four week program. The cohort experience taught us that not all of our questions can be answered by others, but should lead to self-reflection. Before the first session began each of us had taken a Myers-Briggs personality assessment online. Thirteen separate personalities were represented out of sixteen possible types in our cohort of 25.

As the cohort continued we learned through role play scenarios how each of us reacts to adverse situations. Some members feel more comfortable as participating members of a group or alone; whereas others are assertive, vocal leaders.

The program culminated with a two-day retreat at the Mazama Lodge to work on our capstone projects. Groups of 3–6 members were assigned based on preference to three tracks: Education, Programming, and Activities. Each team had roughly 8 hours at the lodge to create and present their capstone to the entire cohort.

The Education track informs and teaches new skills. One education group developed a course—which could be taken à la carte—for Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) grads who want to learn more skills, but weren't ready or able to take ICS. The other education team developed a course around personal goal setting using the SMART goals system (Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relevant, Time-Based). The team broke down the Mazama BCEP education course into three area of learning; Physical, Technical, and Mental.

The Programming track can be thought of as the management and steering of the Mazamas. One programming team’s project focused on youth outreach to middle school children, especially those of low income and/or ethnic minority backgrounds. Their strategy was to have the Mazamas

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partner with organizations that already serve children in the greater community. The other programming team chose to focus on possible ways the Mazamas could reduce its carbon footprint. They proposed a sustainability audit that would assess four different aspects in the organization: transportation, gear, facilities, and food and beverage.

The third track, Activities, gave cohort members a chance to develop an activity encouraging people to become active with the Mazamas. One team designed a Botanical Treasure Hunt, a nature hike focused on studying plants native or naturalized to the Pacific Northwest. The other team designed a curriculum to test leadership skills in the field by leading participants through a series of role plays in crisis management.

The Leadership Cohort was a transformative experience, developing interpersonal skills with others who may have personality traits quite different from oneself. The curriculum was a well-crafted pedagogy, raising in us far more questions than we had answers, forcing us to think outside the norm and contemplate possibilities hitherto unexplored.

“

That’s the nubbins, there!,” the instructor said to me, without raising his voice, as I was still only fifteen feet off the ground.

“Grab ahold of that.” I swept my hand across the rock face, and didn’t feel anything that I considered a step or handhold.

As far as I could tell, it was completely flat. “Look where the chalk is,” he said. “See the nubbins? Get a hold of that!”

Finding the Nubbins A middleaged, firsttime climber matches skills with teenagers at Smith Rock State Park

by Ken Dubois

It was 85 degrees on an April day at Smith Rock, but felt much hotter with the heat radiating off the rocks, the lack of shade, and the self-imposed pressure of climbing my first rock wall just minutes after my first rockclimbing lesson. I was on this high school outdoor education trip as a no-skills-necessary assistant, but now that all the kids had gone up, I wanted my turn. I’d watched a dozen teenagers scramble up this same rock face and float down, declaring it “too easy” and moving on to more challenging sections further down.

“I don’t feel anything,” I said, referring to the nubbins. The instructor continued to guide me with the same advice about looking for chalk marks—left behind by the chalked-up hands of real climbers— and the little outcroppings of rock on which I could supposedly put my full body weight, pulling or pushing myself to the next stage in the climb. But the conversation went in circles, like someone pointing to an empty table and telling you to pick up a pen that isn’t there.

I was getting impatient to make some kind of progress, so I decided to go for it, nubbins or not. I found an outcropping about the size of an almond and tried to stand on it, but I slipped, swung to the side, and banged my back against the rock face.

Dangling like a marionette, I accept defeat, for the moment.

“I’m done,” I announced, sitting in the dirt and pulling off my shoes.

The instructor simply agreed, “Okay.”

I looked up at the rock wall, which appeared even flatter and more nubbinless from this perspective.

In the darkness of the school bus, heading to the campground, I confessed my problem to one of the other adults, clustered as we were in the front seats away from the teens.

“I can’t find the nubbins,” I told her.

“I feel little bumps on the rock face,

but I just can’t see how I could put my whole body weight on that.” Her darkened silhouette appeared to be nodding sagely, and then she delivered the advice that changed the whole experience for me. “Your instincts are telling you that the nubbins won’t hold you,” she said, “but actually they will. And the only way to really know that is to try it and feel it. Practice by standing on nubbins close to the ground.”

Walking towards the rock walls the next day, I stopped to practiced by putting my full weight on nubbins just inches above the dirt. I realized that I could actually stand on those bits without sliding off. I could feel them.

I watched the kids sprint up a few rock walls, and got myself motivated to do the same. And I checked myself: “Remember,” I thought, “you are forty years older than these kids.”

But I did find the nubbins, and made my way, one little bump after another.

I stood up on bits of rock I could barely even see the previous day, and with each step I felt a little bit stronger, more capable, and certain I would prevail. The exhilaration propelled me, and I picked up speed. And before I knew it, I was at the top, sitting on the ledge.

“Are you ready to come down?,” they called up to me, but I said no, I wanted a minute. I looked out at the enormous canyon, and the river winding through it, and all the climbers on the ground, far below. I thought to myself, “How soon until I can do this again?”

About the author: Ken DuBois has enjoyed hiking in the Pacific Northwest for almost thirty years. He joined the Mazamas in 2011 after interviewing Executive Director Lee Davis for an Oregonian article, and having his misconceptions about the organization swept away. He learned that Mazamas, far from being an exclusive club, is welcoming and open to all, with outdoor adventure opportunities for almost any age, skill level, inclination, and budget.

Climber top roping on the Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock. Photo: Ken DuBois

JULY 2016 9

Canyoneering: A New Mazama Mini-Course

by Deb Hill

“

Climbing in reverse.” That is how my mom understood canyoneering a few years ago when I attempted to explain the activity to her. Not a climber herself, mom’s understanding of the things I do are generally grouped into a few categories: safe, not safe, and “I wish you wouldn’t do that,” a spectrum I’m sure many readers can relate to.

True, climbing is about going UP, and canyoneering is about going DOWN. Canyoneering is traveling a canyon that may include walking,

10 MAZAMAS

climbing, jumping, swimming, and rappelling. Canyons can be dry (like some canyons in the desert southwest), they can have a small amount of water, or they can be flowing with swift water. Although canyoneering is just now gaining in popularity in the Pacific Northwest, it takes place all over the world.

Since Pacific Northwest canyoneering is increasing in popularity, the group behind designing this course wanted to get in on the forefront—teach people interested in the activity how to do the activity safely and with a good conservation ethic. Fortunately, there were some leaders in the Mazamas who could see the benefit of this course and supported it moving forward. We

focused on Class B canyons, those with some water but not dangerously so.

This past June and July was the first time the Mazama canyoneering mini course has been offered. After many, many meetings, the group put together the concept, a student manual, and designed three lectures and two field sessions for students in Pacific Northwest canyons.

What did students learn? First off, how to find a canyon. Many canyons require crosscountry travel and navigation. Students also learned how to build canyon specific anchors. In these Class B canyons, the ideal is to “ghost” the canyon, meaning to not leave anything behind. That means no bright red webbing at the top of waterfalls, and canyon specific anchors that can easily be pulled from below (although safety sometimes does require leaving an anchor in place).

“Canyoneering is a great way to make the most of the crummy alpine climbing weather!” -Ally Imbody (2016 canyoneering student) Why do this activity? There are a multitude of reasons. The naturalist in me will answer first: the beauty of creeks and canyons, like mountains, are unparalleled. Where else can you go, not see anyone but those in your group while enjoying beautiful rock walls, luscious moss and ferns, and the occasional frog and salamander? There is plenty for the adventurer too, such as rappelling straight down the center of a waterfall while leaning your head forward in order to create an air space in which to breathe. An expert European swift water canyon guide told me “be with the water.” As expert ice climbers can tell the qualities of ice by sight and touch, so can an expert canyoneer tell

what the water is doing by sight. How the bubbles move, how the color changes in the water.

When asked what he enjoyed about canyoneering, student Joe Petsche said “I love to rappel, with 100’s of gallons of water, downed trees and slippery rock, there is endless excitement!”

In this pilot class we’ve learned what worked, and what can be improved to make the course better in the future. Interested in taking it next year? Keep an eye on the website in late winter.

Beyond the many meetings to put this course together, there are a few necessary shout-outs: Kevin Clark wrote a comprehensive 60-page canyoneering student manual. While four of us were held hostage driving from Las Vegas to Zion National Park (and back) for a canyoneering training, he went through this document

ensuring we all agreed on the content.

Wim Aarts managed the technical side of student communications and field session scheduling (which required managing numerous spreadsheets). Keith Campbell, ever “The Viking,” organized the purchase of new course gear, and went on more field sessions than anyone else. The other members of the group led field sessions, assisted, and provided general support: myself, Karl Helser, and Kaitlin Rupert.

And a thank you to Lee Davis who gave us the support to go ahead and do something different.

Interested in learning more about canyoneering? Check out these websites: ropewiki.com and canyoneeringnorthwest.com.

From left: Students, leaders, and assistants navigate Duncan Creek on the Washington side of the Gorge.

Eric Bruckbauer on Rap 2, Stafford Creek, Oregon Coast range. Tara Meyer on rappel, Stafford Creek, Oregon Coast range. Photos: Karl Helser.

JULY 2016 11

S P A E H

Slag

of the cascades

by Darrin Gunkel

U

nless you happened to watch St Helens blow its top, or until you’ve actually been up one, Cascade volcanoes telegraph permanence. At the very least, they look pretty solid. Maybe it’s that classic pyramid shape like the one on the back of a dollar bill that suggests solidity. Broad-shouldered enough to support massive rivers of ice, they must be made of tough stuff. But when you get up there and hit that band of cruddy stuff below Broken Top’s summit block, you start to wonder. How do these things even stand up if they’re filled with junk like this?

The stuff these mountains are made out of is actually quite hard: the andesite

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and rhyolite making up the bulk of the big peaks is chemically the same material as granite and diorite (which, to the untrained eye, looks like granite.) They come from the same magma, the only difference being where they cooled; the former above ground and the latter below. These are mixes of quartz and other tough minerals baked together at intense temperatures and pressures deep in the earth and then fused in post-eruption cooling. So why all the cruddy rock? Weathering is the short answer. Rain, glaciers, and the freeze-thaw cycle that pries cliffs and boulders apart all take their toll. Another threat comes from what put those rocks there in the first place: the volcano itself.

Big fire mountains don’t just snuff out like a candle.

While volcanoes can take tens of thousands of years to go extinct, the pools of magma that feed them can

take millions of years to cool into solid granite and diorite. After a mountain stops erupting new lavas, it can chuff away for a very long time. And it’s that chuffing that really does damage to the hard minerals that make up the rock. How so?

There are those who like to point out that Mt. St. Helens is one of the biggest sources of hydrogen sulfide pollution in the Pacific Northwest. All volcanoes emit it to some degree or another. It’s the gas that makes the trek into Mt. Hood’s crater

Clockwise, from top left: Negotiating the rubbley slopes of North Sister. Photo: Kevin Machtelinckx. Hydrogen Sulfide Haze over Mount St. Helens. Photo: Darrin Gunkel.

Igneous Rock Chart: Mineral content of volcanic rocks. Credit: The Earth Through Time, 8th Edition, Harold Levin. Basalt at 6,500 feet in Goat Rocks. Photo: Darrin Gunkel

such an aromatic, and at times irritating experience. Cook andesite and rhyolite long enough with hydrogen sulfide and it turns to mud—technically clay. Hence the gloppy stuff that sticks under your crampons in Hood’s crater—hard to believe, but this essentially started out as granite. Once eruptions of hard new lavas end, hydrogen sulfide can continue to vent long enough to turn a mountain’s innards to mush. So, while glaciers and other elements are gnawing our volcanoes from the outside, volcanic gasses are slowly digesting them from the inside.

It doesn’t help, either, that not all lavas are created equal. Ever wonder how basalt, the resilient rock that forms headlands like Cape Lookout, could flow 375 miles from its source in Idaho to reach the sea?

And why do rhyolite and andesite pile up to 14,410 feet (Rainier actually maxed out at 16,000 feet before the most recent glaciations shaved it down)? Lava viscosity is dictated in part by how much silica it contains. Basalt is on the low end, and rhyolite the high end of the silica content

scale. Sticky rhyolite erupts very differently than fluid basalt. It has a tendency to explode, shattering nearby rocks and itself, raining down in fragments. That, or it erupts cascades of rubbley clinkers, the kind of ankle breakers that make late season climbers on the Sisters wish they’d scheduled their climb before the snows melted.

We owe big thanks to andesite for cementing it all together. Andesite lands between rhyolite and basalt on the silica and viscosity spectrums. Tough andesite is what allows our big mountains to soar and provides nice, solid layers full of fabulous holds among those bands of weaker rock. Erosion resistant basalt makes the occasional appearance, too. Check out the post piles along the Pacific Crest Trail near Cispus Pass in Goat Rocks to see a fine example of the relatively rare high altitude basalt flow. Without the help of andesite and basalt, summiting our slag heaps would be an even bigger, if no less rewarding, chore.

Want to dive deeper into the subject?

Fire Mountains of the West, the Cascade and Mono Lake Volcanoes (Mountain Press Publishing Company, 2005) by Stephen Harris is a great primer on the geology of Cascade volcanoes, including biographies of the major peaks. If you can find it, the original version, published by the Mountaineers as Fire and Ice: The Cascade Volcanoes, is an even better read with better graphics. And for a more general back grounder on Pacific Northwest geology, try Hill Williams’ The Restless Northwest, a Geological Story (Washington State University Press, 2002).

About the author: A Mazama since 2013, Darrin Gunkel moved to the Pacific Northwest in 1993 with nothing in his car but camping gear, a pair of binoculars, and a copy of Fire Mountains of the West: the Cascade and Mono Lakes Volcanoes. A mania for up close views of volcano geology and access to dark night skies propel much of his climbing.

JULY 2016 13

Evolution of a Climber

by Kerry Loehr

This is my story, my evolution. One man's journey from flailing on rock to being the proud new owner of a shiny trad rack. So if you don't feel like you can rock climb, stick with it. You may surprise yourself.

G

rowing up in Southeast Portland I didn't fully appreciate the tremendous opportunities afforded to me. Sure, I grew up skiing on Mt. Hood, but it wasn't until I moved back from living in Ohio for four years that I truly appreciated the Pacific Northwest—the ocean, the high desert, and especially the mountains. I was 30 years old and I had yet to climb any of the glaciated peaks I grew up gazing at from afar.

I resolved to start "small" with Mount St. Helens. Note to any new climbers, do not do St. Helens in the fall unless you really really like scree. Next up was Mt. Hood.

That was an eye opener!

Having a few summits under my belt, I started hearing about this group called the Mazamas. Hood also made me realize I needed to make sure my skills were solid if I wanted to keep climbing, which I most undoubtedly did. I was lucky enough to meet a group of Mazama mentors who took me under their wing. I joined the Mazamas and kept climbing with my new friends. Bigger mountains and harder routes were my goal, but still my focus was solely on glaciated peaks. Summits of Mt. Adams and Mt. Shasta followed, along with the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP).

BCEP was great, I learned valuable skills, met new friends, and was introduced to rock climbing. I have to admit, though, the rock sessions (especially Horesthief) were not my favorites. I was terrible at

rock climbing, pure and simple. I was comfortable on snow, but rock baffled me.

Still, I endeavored to climb at the Portland Rock Gym occasionally. Results were poor, and frustrating. It wasn't until my climbing mentors brought me along on a climb of Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh Range near Mt. Rainier that it started to make sense.

For those unfamiliar, Unicorn is a "mixed" alpine climb that involves steep snow slopes on the approach and a low 5th class single rock climbing pitch at the top.

It was challenging, but my whole climbing world opened up then and there. I now undertood why people rock climbed! Mixed climbs were now my jam.

Fast forward, I climbed a few single pitches at Smith Rock (still flailing), and then was fortunate enough to get invited to a climb of Liberty Bell in the North Cascades. Wow. Just wow! Still, to this day, one of my all time favorite climbs. 3.5 pitches of alpine rock climbing. I seconded a very skilled Eugene Lewins up that route, and it forever changed me as a climber.

Mazama Logo Gear Check out a variety of new Mazama products in our CafePress store: cafepress.com/mazamas. You'll find t-shirts, sweatshirts, mugs, onesies, sippy cups, and more! If there are any other products you would like to see in our store, don't hesitate to ask! (Email: sarah@mazamas.org) 14 MAZAMAS

The beauty, the challenge, the problem solving all came together. I wanted to be a rock climber. Who would have guessed that?!

A series of resolutions followed: more gym climbing, to become a lead climber, and to take the Mazama Advanced Rock (AR) Program. I'm pleased to say I've achieved all of those goals now. I just graduated AR this year and I am stoked!

In fact, I'm writing this from Ashland, OR having just climbed the Cosmic Wall on Mt. Hubris in northern California. That's four successful climbs in four weeks, leading Unicorn Peak, climbing Mt. Hood, swapping leads on Ingalls Peak, as well as the Cosmic Wall. Not a bad summer so far!

I'm comfortable leading trad climbs, and now truly have freedom to do a lot of what I think are cool things in the moutains.

Along the way I have had many mentors, developed skills, and have climbed with new and old friends.

AYMMAZAMA LODGE

YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN SUMMER HOURS The lodge is open seven days a week serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner through Aug. 28. We go back to our winter hours starting Monday, Aug. 29.

We are having more of normal summer at Mazama Lodge. Cool evenings in the mid 40’s and Warm afternoons in the sun, the perfect recipe for huckleberries. The Mazama Hill should be full of huckleberries by early August. If you come up and pick huckleberries we just ask that you give a few to the kitchen so we can include them in our buttermilk pancakes.

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERT SERIES: TUESDAY AUG. 16 & 23 Tuesday, Aug. 16: New Mazama member Rick Trostel will perform

Torelli's Concerto in D, Hovhaness’ Sonata for Trumpet and Organ, and Stevens’ Sonata for Trumpet and Piano. Rick plays with the Juneau (AK) Symphony, Oregon Pro Arte Chamber Orchestra, and the Sunnyside Symphony. He is also a ski instructor and trainer at Timberline and Meadows.

Tuesday, Aug. 23: The Four Squirrel, a String Quartet comprised of Metropolitan Youth Symphony members Cammie Lee (violin), Randy Zhang (viola), Alexander Wilde (cello), and Hannah Weinstein (violin).

Dinner at 5:30 p.m.; concert at 6:30 p.m. Concerts are 45 minutes.

Tickets: $25 (includes dinner). Tickets available online or by calling the lodge: 503-272-9214.

SUNDAY EVENING PROGRAMS Dinner will be served at 5 p.m. and the 1 hour program begins at 6 p.m. Event is free; dinner available for $13.25.

August 7: Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland Join outing leader Eric Hoem and experience the hiking trails, climb route, and trekking path that members of his Mazama outing followed in the fjordlands of western Norway.

September 4: History of the Mount Hood National Forest and its Lookouts Local author Cheryl Hill will highlight several interesting stories from the forest’s past and talk about the history of its lookouts. She will also talk about her favorite lookout hikes and give you a few tips for staying in a lookout cabin.

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Rise of a Routesetter

A Conversation with one of Portland’s Elite Rock Climbers

by Kevin Machtelinckx

M

y last vivid memory of my brother’s childhood friend, Alex Borst, is the warm summer day in middle school when our forces waged an all-out apple war in the scarred battlefield of our sprawling back yard. Alex and my brother had retreated back behind a small hill, upon which grew the source of our ammunition; an apple tree whose branches sagged heavily with fruit. With my two enemies sheltered out of sight, I laid siege to their position by lobbing salvo after salvo of the green fruit back behind the hill.

After some time and little result from my ‘death-from-above’ tactics, I switched my strategy to one of precision and fear. In my mind, the two outlaws would certainly surrender as soon as they found themselves pegged down

by Granny Smiths whizzing by their heads, exploding on the trees behind them. So, scanning over my handpicked arsenal, I chose the largest, most rotten apple I could find. The kind that sounds somewhat hollow and promises the thrower a satisfying pop and splatter upon impact. I cocked my arm back, took aim at a spot just above the hill and pitched one complete serving of fruit as hard and fast as my 8th grade arms could

16 MAZAMAS

manage. Just as the decomposing sphere reached the apex of its flight, a skinny, freckled face crept up from behind the crest.

To my horror, and admittedly slight delight, I watched the decomposing sphere conclude its flight in the most perfect way possible; square in between a pair of innocent 5th grade eyes.

The apple, once an airborne solid green globe, phase-changed into a fine pulp upon its rendezvous with Alex’s forehead. The consistency of the fructose-laden sludge now flying in all directions was so perfect that, had I been making applesauce, I could have

skipped the food processor all together.

Victory was sweet, if slightly tangy, and I stomped off having cemented my place as victor of the apple wars.

Eighteen years later, I was caught completely off guard while perusing the Rock and Ice Magazine website. I came across a video of a long-haired, beastly climber executing move after move on a second ascent of Freakshow, a 5.14a sport route in Portland, Oregon’s Rat Cave. That climber, flexing muscles I did not even know existed, was the same Alex Borst.

My interest piqued and, after some brief searching, I got back in contact with him.

Before I knew it, I was meeting up with Alex on a muggy, overcast afternoon in

northwest Portland to hear about how he became one of Portland’s premier rock climbers and routesetters.

With a beer in hand, he explains his first encounter with rock climbing. “My parents took me to Disneyland when I was 12 years old. There was a place called ESPN Zone that had a climbing wall and I used every one of my game tokens on it,” Borst recounts. The seed had been planted, but it was only a couple years later that Borst joined his first climbing team at Stoneworks Climbing Gym in Portland.

The team competed in the national circuit, making it to the Bouldering Nationals twice and the Sport Climbing Nationals three times. It was not until these national appearances that Alex’s parents accepted that their son’s path was not one of traditional high school sports.

I ask Alex about his high school years. He begins with a nod, “Yea… that’s when things started really coming together.” It was during this time that he truly began understanding the balance between the mental and physical resilience Clockwise, from top left: Alex’s high school climbing team.. Competing in a CCS competition at Sonoma State University. Borst, tied in and readying himself for a route at Cause Cliff, Utah. Sending “Wet Dream” in Joe’s Valley, Utah.

that being a competitive climber requires.

Alex takes another gulp of his beer, replacing the calories expended from his day at work, “Climbing is the perfect mix of physical and mental challenge. It’s engaging. Every route is a puzzle that can take hours to solve in your head. Then you need to execute it with your body. It’s a fun kind of frustration.”

During a senior year bouldering trip to Lost Rocks in northern California, Borst learned of a college nearby with access to incredible climbing, Humboldt State University. With the surf calmly breaking upon the California coastline and Alex sending intricate boulder problems in the setting sun, the choice to attend the school was easy. He majored in Forestry, something that allowed him to continue exploring his connection with the natural world.

Borst’s commitment to climbing cemented itself when he helped establish HSU’s Student Climbing Coalition with six others. “There wasn’t an official team at the school to organize climbing outings or get people together who were passionate about climbing, so it just felt natural to create one,” he explains. With the club needing a leader, he also became the team’s coach. The team competed in events ranging from San Diego to Boston.

Competing in rock climbing and bouldering is one thing. Coming up with training programs and developing routes for the team to practice on is entirely another. “I actually began learning about routesetting by watching my coach at Stoneworks, Molly Beard, set routes,” he says. “Routesetting exposed me to an entirely different side of climbing,” as he begins to explain this craft that is relatively unknown to many people.

Having established himself as a leader within the climbing community and as a force to be reckoned with on the competitive circuit, Alex began seriously exploring the routesetting career when he was hired at Club Sport in Portland.

His talents did not go unnoticed as he was then asked to help design the routes at The Circuit Bouldering Gym’s location in Tigard. With his career well under way, Alex caught wind of Planet Granite’s intention of opening a location

continued on next page

Routesetter, continued from previous page in downtown Portland, so he contacted them and became the gym’s first setter.

Now a USA Climbing Level 3 routesetter, Borst works at Planet Granite as an assistant head routesetter, spending about 24-30 hours per week hanging off of walls, designing and building routes.

Routesetting, as Borst describes is it, is both an art and a career. “Every route is distinct, because it reflects the personality of the person who set it,” Alex says. “There are some people who go for a ‘flowy’, artistic route, relying on balance and continuous movement. When I build a route, I go about it very methodically, thinking about every minute detail needed to execute a particular move.” When I press him to explain what he means, I realize I’m not only talking to an athlete, but to an artistic perfectionist. Alex ponders his answer for a second and responds, “I think about every move and transition in terms of percentages. If I am on an undercling, what percentage of bicep strength should I be using as I push off with my leg to reach

the fingertip crimp with my other hand?

Where am I on the route so I can pace myself ? Is my body in a good position to take a rest before the next move? If so, how long can I allow myself to rest for?”

As much as Borst thinks about routesetting logically and algorithmically, climbing still remains poetry in motion for him. I see his eyes light up as they search for the words to describe the feelings he experiences when focused on projecting new and more difficult routes. I ask him if he is familiar with “flow,” a concept in psychology that describes the state of mind a person attains when fully immersed and engaged in an activity. He smiles and says, “Yea… you mean ‘the zone.’ I reach it when I’m at my physical limit. Once you hit it, you seek it out again and again. It’s the state I reach where I can’t hear the cheers of the crowd and I’m not thinking about anything or anyone else. I’m listening to how my body feels, how my fingers are gripping the holds, how my balance is shifting and how I am breathing. Nothing else matters.”

Rather coolly, he adds, “If I’m on anything less than a 5.12- my mind starts to wander because it’s not being challenged by the route. That’s when I make mistakes and lose concentration. I’m at my best when I am pushing my limits.” I try to think of what I feel like when climbing a 5.12 to try to relate. It’s a dead-end thought Mar. after I remember 2017 I’ve never climbed a 5.12. I take it Southern as an exercise Patagonia Trek in perspective instead.

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18 MAZAMAS

Aside from his second ascent of Freakshow, Alex’s favorite climbs include “If ” (5.13b) at the Trinity Aretes, “China Man” (5.11b) at French’s Dome, “Valkyrie” (5.13d) at Viento State Park and “Churning in the Wake” (5.13a) at Smith Rock State Park. Borst spends much of his time at the Rat Cave in Troutdale, where a number of routes await first and second ascents. He aspires to start bolting his own routes in the area one day.

Recently engaged, Borst tries to balance his climbing by following a healthy lifestyle that includes yoga, cooking and spending time with his now fiancée. They both look forward to fully embracing the climber stereotype and living out of a van one day.

We order another beer and talk vans for a while before finishing off the conversation talking about his dreams and objectives.

Alex looks hopeful, “I am really looking forward to pushing myself as a routesetter for as long as I can. After that, possibly something to do with physical therapy, eastern medicine or even designing climbing holds or climbing apps. I’m full of ideas.”

The evening comes to a close as we go our separate ways. I’m left inspired by having spoken with someone who has unequivocally found and pursued their passion to its fullest extent. As I get into my car, two thoughts come to mind. In the first, I make a resolution to climb more and challenge myself to try routes outside my comfort zone. In the second, I wonder if getting on track to finding your passion involves taking an apple to the face at some point in your life. Maybe that’s what many of us are missing. Whatever the key, Alex Borst has found it and is well on his way to becoming one of Portland’s finest climbers and routesetters.

About the Author: Kevin Machtelinckx is an adventure photographer based in Portland, Oregon, though his work spans many continents. He currently works as a mechanical engineer as his photography portfolio continues to grow.

His expeditions are sponsored by his own sense of humor and fueled by a neverending supply of Belgian chocolate.

Documentary Film Update— Beacon Rock: Then & Now

by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager

T

he idea for a documentary film about climbing at Beacon Rock first came to life in 2013.

I had just started working for the Mazamas and met Jeff Thomas, an old school American climber, local mountaineering historian and an excellent photographer. Jeff is mostly responsible for collecting and cataloging the extensive photo archives that can be found in our Mountaineering Center.

Jeff and I soon discovered that we share passions for climbing Beacon Rock in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge, as well as film. We began discussing ways to share the century-old climbing history with the local community and preserve its stories for future generations. We were also concerned with the state of climbing access at the Park and thought that a film could inspire a new generation of climbers to get involved in access issues and create positive change. The concept of a short documentary seemed like the best route.

It’s been three years in the making and is now near completion!

The film is really three stories wrapped into a 20-minute visual journey. It starts out by recounting Beacon’s first ascent in 1901. This is the never-before-seen or heard story of why Frank J. Smith, a steamship captain decided to climb the rock. Through the use of archival imagery, historic research and modern-day filming techniques (unmanned aerial vehicle, a.k.a., drone) the original Pioneer Route comes to life.

The second story of the film is told to us by Fred Gullette, a 50-year Mazama member and Beacon Rock climbing pioneer. Fred’s story begins in the early 1950s, just a few decades after Washington State made Beacon Rock an official Park. Curiosity and the pursuit of solid rock led this Reed College student to the iconic monolith. Fred soon encountered a park ranger who informed him that, “We don’t allow climbing on Beacon Rock,” and so begun one of the area’s first climbing access issues and subsequent victories. With permission from park officials in Olympia, Fred made his way to the southeast buttress of Beacon and discovered his climb. Today, the classic Southeast Corner route is climbed hundreds of times per year yet nobody knows the true story of its first ascent.

Our third story, a more direct route on Beacon’s south face, is a climbing

milestone in vertical difficulty. With the help of local climbing ledged, Mark Hudon, our filmmaking team roped up to capture the moves, grit and tenacity that it takes to ascend this intimidating crack system.

As one member of the first FREE ascent team put it, “Dods Jam looked like the baddest route in the book.” This sentiment was tested by the area’s best climbers from 1961 ( first ascent, pitons and aid climbing techniques used) and into the late 1970s ( first free ascent, nuts/chocks, no cams).

Beacon Rock: Then & Now will be available to audiences this fall through local event screenings and (hopefully!) film festivals. Eventually, the film will be available for download but for now it needs a few finishing touches and some time on the big screen. This documentary film project would not be possible without the generous support of the Mazamas, nonmembers who love Beacon Rock, archival images, mountaineering artifacts, and of course, local Portland cinematographers.

JULY 2016 19

A Climber I Gone to the Dogs

by Bruce Wyse

had been a volunteer dog walker at the Oregon Humane Society (OHS) for a couple of years while at the same time working my way up a few peaks with my fellow Mazamas. One day, I was chatting with one of the other dog walkers, describing the training I was going through in Intermediate Climbing School (ICS). She mentioned that it sounded a bit like what the OHS Technical Animal Rescue team (known as OHSTAR) does and encouraged me to check them out.

Intrigued, I applied for a spot on the team and started to attend their training and got a look at their “3:1 mechanical advantage rescue haul system”. The hardware is different: bigger, heavier, and a bit more complex, but it still seemed like a fancy name for a crevasse rescue “Z-system” to me. I guess mountaineers are just in the habit of shortening everything, including the names of things, if they think it will lighten the load in their pack.

20 MAZAMAS

From left: A dark and stormy night: rescuer (center in white helmet) makes final preparations before lowering down to Eagle Creek. Ranger post rescue prior to being portaged back to the trailhead. A Christmas miracle: Sandy is retrieved from Eagle Creek. Ranger, post rescue and post surgery stops by OHS to show the author some gratitude.

During their once-a-month trainings I melded with the team and “learned the ropes” (pun intended). OHSTAR uses rescue procedures similar to many SAR groups (the group’s technical advisor is a long time PMR member). The basic skills overlap a bit with some of the mountaineering techniques learned in the Mazamas: knot work, wrap three pull two, being mindful of your angles, don’t step on the rope, etc. Added to these familiar items is more complex gear and procedures such as mirrored rope systems, mechanical ascenders and friction devices.

There is a lot of cool gear that would make a gear head’s eyes light up (at least until they realize that they would have to divvy up an extra 50 pounds of group gear amongst a climb team). Since dogs are not people (despite what many of their owners believe) there are also extra skills involved with animal rescue, such as animal harnessing, that go beyond the standard SAR bag of tricks—most important is to know animal behavior. How do you convince an animal that the strange big headed person with the glowing eye (a helmeted rescuer with a head lamp), who

I’ve done technical roped ascents into trees to rescue distressed cats, helped capture injured geese for treatment at the Audubon society, and have done joint human/animal rescues with PMR and PNWSAR. dropped from the sky (was lowered down a cliff), and is carrying numerous odd rattling objects (is decked out with gear) is a friend and came to help? (The secret is to be patient, carry treats, and a muzzle).

Once on the team I started to assist on a few rescues: scouting locations, schlepping gear, setting up, and hauling rope and a couple of times I got the nod to be the rescuer (i.e. the guy on the pointy end of the rope). We’ve done rescues both in the backcountry and within the Portland metro area. I’ve done technical roped ascents into trees to rescue distressed cats, helped capture injured geese for treatment at the Audubon society, and have done joint human/animal rescues with PMR and PNWSAR. There have been many

memorable moments but a couple rescues stand out in particular.

SANDY’S CHRISTMAS MIRACLE It was a dark and stormy night (literally).

It was also Christmas. While most of us were feasting and celebrating with family and friends, a merry gentleman, while hiking along the Eagle Creek trail in the Columbia River Gorge, lost control of his dog Sandy. The yellow lab plunged 150 feet down the cliff and was perched precariously on a ledge above the creek.

The call went out and eight team members were able to respond on this holiday evening. Night had fallen, along with plenty

continued on next page

OHSTAR, continued from previous page

OHSTAR, continued from previous page of drizzly Oregon rain, by the time the team assembled, divvyed up the gear, and moved up to the rescue site.

Coincidentally the dog had fallen only about 50 yards from a point where we did another rescue just a month earlier.

That other site, at a bend in the trail with convenient stout trees for anchors and a good work space to set up the haul system, was a decent place to operate. This one, with a cliff down one side, a steep slope up the other, and a narrow trail in the middle… not so much. The team tossed around some ideas and eventually came up with a feasible plan based on some anchors I’d once helped build while assisting a BCEP class at Horsethief Butte.

A teammate and I went back down the trail where the slope was a bit less steep and scrambled up above our rescue site.

While trying not to knock loose rocks (or ourselves) down upon our teammates 22 MAZAMAS

From left: Rescuer (at bottom) being lowered to attend a patient. OHSTAR team practices mechanical advantage raising (that means a “Z” system to you climbers).

below, we rigged up an anchor with one of our ropes to a couple of fir trees. After rappelling down the rope back to the trail we made anchor points for the haul systems and were then able to lower J.T., the rescuer, who was then able to harness and secure the dog. That was the easy part (relatively speaking). We had a very narrow working space for our mechanical advantage setup (the “Z”) and it was a short hand over hand pull, pull, “reset”... over and over again until at last the dog and rescuer were back up on the trail.

Miraculously (a Christmas miracle you might say) the dog was without serious injury and was able to walk back (now securely leashed) down to the trail head.

RANGER’S HAPPY ENDING It was neither dark nor stormy, it wasn’t even night. It was a rare occasion for OHSTAR as the usual callouts happen after

a person and their animal out enjoying some daytime fun in the forest get into trouble. By the time someone can get to where they have phone reception and the call goes through the emergency response system and the rescue team is assembled at the trail head, night has fallen.

The day prior to this particular occasion Ranger, an 80 pound mastiff mix, while nosing through the underbrush (as dogs like to do) fell more than 100 feet over a cliff at Butte Creek Falls. The local fire department in Silverton, Oregon was unequipped to perform a rescue. After going through various channels OHSTAR got called out the following day. The dog had fallen off one side of a rock promontory that jutted out into Butte Creek. Joshua Osmun, Mazama member Jeff Nastoff, and I were able to scramble down one side and rig up a fixed line to traverse the cliff below the falls, enabling

us to reach the dog and better assess the situation. Ranger had been lying beside the rushing water all night. He was cold, tired, hungry, and most obviously in pain from the exposed bone sticking out of his shoulder (as well as other injuries we could not see). Still, Ranger had the decency to be courteous (his exhaustion and my handful of treats probably helped).

Conditions were too hazardous to attempt to bring him up the way we came down so we scrambled back up and the team formulated a plan. Our seven member team set up a haul system for a vertical lift about 100 feet from the cliff face, the closest anchor points, and I geared up to go over the edge. Once I reconnected with the dog I signaled to the team to bring me back up. Ranger was very compliant, harnessed up and hooked to the ropes, as we dangled beneath an overhang at the bottom of the cliff while waiting for the team to reset the haul system. However, I smelled trouble in the air. More specifically, I smelled skunk in the air and started praying that the team would quickly reset and get us out of there before someone decided that we were unwelcome guests in their home. Luckily it turned out to be a non-event. We got Ranger safely to the top of the cliff and littered him back to the trailhead. His owner later told us that after about $10,000 worth of surgeries he was again a happy dog.

It is a very rewarding feeling being part of a team and providing relief not only to an animal in distress but also the people who care for them. The best advice I can give to people who travel with dogs in the back country is that if you are traveling in hazardous or unknown terrain keep your dog leashed (it’s like putting yourself in a position to be lucky).

Whether it is front country or back country, contact the Oregon Humane Society Technical Animal Rescue if your pet, or someone else’s, is trapped or stranded and needs help. Trained OHSTAR volunteers can evacuate injured pets from wilderness areas, retrieve pets stranded on cliff sides, river banks, and other areas and structures that can only be accessed safely using ropes, climbing gear and other technical rescue equipment or extricate animals trapped in enclosed spaces whose lives are in danger.

Contacting OHSTAR Monday-Friday, daytime hours: 503-416-2993 Evenings and weekends: 503-849-5655 In cases of emergency, please call your local police department.

About the Author: Bruce Wyse retired from the Army, returned home to the Pacific Northwest, and considers himself on permanent vacation. He started volunteering with the Oregon Humane Society in 2009. He joined the Mazamas in 2010. When not out with these fine organizations he can usually be found exploring in the wilderness with his Red Heeler, Sasha.

Mazama Climb Awards Every year the Mazamas recognizes climbing accomplishments and gives out climbing awards in various categories. The Climbing Committee is now accepting applications for all climbing awards. All qualifying climbs for these awards must be successful official Mazama climbs.

CLIMBING AWARDS Guardian Peaks: Mount. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams.

Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister.

Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, ThreeFingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan.

LEADER AWARDS Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.

All qualified applicants are encouraged to apply. Application deadline is October 15.

Submit your application (including scanned copies of your summit certificates) online. Login to the Mazama Member section of the website, click on Awards, and then Awards–Climbing.

Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor JULY 2016 23

Mazama Mountain Science School Set to Grow in 2017

by Ann Griffin, Mazama Mountain Science School Project Coordinator Have you heard of the Mazama Mountain Science School? It is the centerpiece of our Youth Outreach programs.

Imagine the scene: buses carrying 5th grade students, teachers and volunteers arrive at the Mazama Lodge. It’s winter time, and for many of the students, it is their first time at Mt. Hood. Indeed, for many, it’s their first time playing on snow.

Kids jump up and down with excitement!

Over three days and two nights, students in the Mazama Mountain Science School (MMSS) learn about the alpine environment: glaciers, weather, and mountain animals. And they have a lot of fun.

MMSS started during the

24 MAZAMAS

winter of 2015. Now entering its third year, we will grow the program by partnering with the Centennial School District. We could have as many as 550-600 students participants in winter 2017!

This educational program is possible through a partnership among the Mazamas, the Multnomah Education School District, community partners and generous donations from individual Mazama members.

MMSS supports the Mazama vision of “everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.”

As kids play in and learn, they establish a relationship with the mountains. Hopefully, that relationship will continue well into adulthood.

If you are interested in learning more or getting involved, please let me know. You can contact me at anngriffin@mazamas.org.

AYM AYM ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART. We've got great, big adventures planned for the rest of summer. Below is just a quick overview, be sure to keep an eye on the AYM Meetup page, and mazamas.org/activities-events/ aym/. See you out on the trail!

AUG 12–14: BACKPACK: OLYMPIC NP ENCHANTED VALLEY Elly is back in the saddle, and got back country permits in Olympic National Park.

Budget for 3 days, 32 miles and 2,000–4,000 elevation gain (sources vary). $20 members/ $30 nonmembers. Email Elly at eapeders@gmail.com to sign up.

AUG 18: EVENING BIKE RAMBLE, SELLWOOD TO STEEL BRIDGE LOOP Reena will be leading a happy hour bike ride, starting at the South Waterfront. Expect a nicely paced 12-mile ride around the scenic south end of the Willamette. Check the website for more details and to sign up.

LABOR DAY: NORTH CASCADES Looking further ahead, be sure to mark your calendar

for the annual Labor Day trip. Cabe, Keith, Matt, and the rest of the crew have planned an epic weekend for us.

Expect a very long drive, a variety of great hikes, and an all-around perfect way to say goodbye to summer. More details forthcoming.

CLIMB! Last but certainly not least, we are excited to announce that longtime hike leaders Beth Copeland and Daniel Mick are in the final stages of becoming climb leaders!

Beth has a climb on Aug. 5, at Eagle & Chutla Peaks. It’s full as of the time of writing, but there’s only on alternate.

Daniel still has a few open spots on his Rock Creek Butte and Elkhorn Peak, Sep. 30–Oct. 2. This will be a backpacking climb, in the Blue Mountains in NE Oregon. To sign up, send your climb card to Daniel Mick.

Check out the summer climb schedule for more information.

And, as always, we meet in town on the third Monday of

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Six intrepid Adventurous Young Mazamas spent a long weekend exploring the wonders of Crater Lake, Oregon's only National Park, and nearby wild and scenic Rogue River. Rain in July was no match for fun, and we enjoyed gourmet camp cooking, local wineries, a surprise concert at our campground from The Brothers Reed, and sunrise views of America's deepest lake. Thanks to Anna Revolinsky and Mike Kacmar for planning a wonderful long-weekend getaway.

Photo: Sándor Lau

the month for our roving Pub Night, and the first Wednesday of the month for board game

night. Check the Meetup page for the most up to date information.

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: 31 Alex Berres–Mt. Adams Bryce Buchanan–Mt. Hood Deborah Busch–Mt. Hood Josh Carlson–Mt. St. Helens Anthony Carr–Mt. Hood Harry Colas–Mt. Adams Alexander Cooley–Mt. St. Helens Gretchen Dennison–Mt. Hood Ashley Driscoll–Mt. St. Helens Josiah Esper–Mt. Hood Ryan Gwillim–Mt. Hood Kelli Horvath–Mt. St. Helens Srinidhi Kaushik–Mt. St. Helens Michelle Lin–Mt. Shasta Frank Linehan–Mt. Hood

Darcie Meihoff–South Sister Christine Petersen–Middle Sister Andrew Robinson–South Sister Beatrice Robinson–South Sister Katherine Rogers–Mt. St. Helens Erica Schubach–Mt. St. Helens Dylan Shuler–Mt. St. Helens Mark Siegel–Mt. St. Helens Benjamin Sims–Mt. Adams Matthew Stenger–Mt. Hood Thomas Tritz–Mt. Hood Christine Troy–Mt. Hood Nicole Wasko–Mt. St. Helens Scott Wasko–Mt. St. Helens Jean Wilson–Mt. St. Helens Ryan Yambra–Mt. St. Helens

Reinstatements: 5 Todd Guren (2004), Karen Hall (1990), Robert Holzman (2014), Karen Sharples (1998), Janet Thompson (1960) Deceased: 2 Nicholas Clinch (1966), Raymond Willis (1956)

Total Membership: 2016—3,533; 2015—3,422

JULY 2016 25

6 1 0 2 S M A C New

by Topher Dabrowski

W

ith so many manufacturers introducing new cams for 2016, I wanted to take a quick look at the newer cams on the market and do some comparisons to see how much of a benefit they offer.

Obviously there is a lot of talk about light weight and improved features,but how much lighter and what is it going to cost you?

I'm going to focus on Black Diamond (BD), Metolius, DMM, Wild Country and Totem cams, since those are the main newer offerings for the year.

Black Diamond and Metolius both announced an ultra light (UL) cam which will supplement their current offerings of Camalot C4s and MasterCams, respectively.

Only Metolius has gone as far as putting its entire set of MasterCams on a diet as well as adding two more sizes on the upper end, a number 7 and 8, which is in the range of a Camalot 2 and 3. The larger-sized MasterCams of the previous generation tended to be a bit wobbly due to the single flexible stem and the larger mass of the cam lobes. However, with the reduction in mass, it seems like Metolius was willing to go a little bigger and also add a stiffer cable. Black Diamond's new line of UL cams does not include the .3, 5, or 6 yet, so if you wanted a complete set those would have to be made up with the C4s. There is no news yet if BD intends to update those cam sizes and offer a UL version.

26 MAZAMAS

DMM has changed up the design of the lobes on its Dragon cams to be a bit "stickier" and profiled to be thicker in the sweet spot for more contact with rock. They offer a full line of cams with extendable slings from size 00-6, which is equivalent to the BD sizes of 0.3-4.

It is interesting to note that DMM has color coded its twin axle Dragon cams to match the colors of the BD Camalots for a given size. One would guess this was done to ease interchangeability and familiarity of cam sizes for Camalot aficionados.

Wild Country, too, has updated the Friend to offer a twin axle design cam which also closely resembles the Camalot C4. Wild Country has taken the cue from DMM and added extendable slings to the new units, while also matching the size and colors of the Camalots. Could this be a trend towards an industry standard?

Unfortunately, the Friends only come in the 0.5-4 sizes for now so the equivalent smaller 0.3 and 0.4 sizes would have to be made up with either the previous Helium Friend cam or another brand entirely.

Totem, a lesser-known Spanish company, offers a unique cam that is a dual independent stem design. It allows the cam to function in a quasi-offset nature which helps it perform well in flaring cracks and also affords aid climbers the ability to actively place only two lobes of the cam.

Totem is expanding the range with two units, one which will be similar in size to the 2.0 Camalot size, which Totem calls a 1.8, slung with orange Dyneema. The other is the 0.5 size, equivalent to a 0.2 Camalot and is slung in black Dyneema.

I wanted to compare the new UL cams to the existing C4 cams as well as the DMM, Wild Country and Totem cams for a common 0.3-4 size set. Unfortunately, this was a bit of a challenge since only the DMM Dragons came as a complete set that covered the range. To try and make a reasonably fair comparison, I supplemented what each manufacturer might have available for the missing sizes.

For the Wild Country cams I chose the equivalent Helium Friends. To make a complete set of Camalot ULs I threw in the 0.3 C4. I couldn't do much for Totem since they don't make an equivalent size to the BD 3 or 4. Similarly, the MasterCam ULs don't have a BD 4 equivalent, so I used the Camalot UL 4 to complete that set as it seemed the logical choice.

I made three main comparisons and summarized the mass and costs of a chosen cam set between manufacturers. I highlighted the lightest set and lowest cost (see table right).

01: Wild Country offers the smallest set of new cams (six in total) from 0.5-4, so I used this as a basis for the first comparison and substituted in a Camalot UL 4 for the Metolius set. The lightest and lowest

01

02

03

MANUFACTURER

SET DESCRIPTION

SET WEIGHT gm

SET COST gm

BLACK DIAMOND

.5-4 CAMALOT C4

999

$504.65

BLACK DIAMOND

.5-4 CAMALOT UL

782

$699.25

DMM WILD COUNTRY METOLIUS

1-6 DRAGON .5-4 FRIEND 4-8 MASTERCAM UL + 4 CAMALOT UL

943 991 722

$547.65 $569.60 $439.70

BLACK DIAMOND

.3-4 CAMALOT C4

1157

$569.60

BLACK DIAMOND

.3 C4 + .4-4 CAMALOT UL

918

$764.20

DMM

00-6 DRAGON

1103

$617.60

WILD COUNTRY METOLIUS

0-4 FRIEND 2-8 MASTERCAM UL + 4 CAMALOT UL

1169 842

$569.60 $559.60

BLACK DIAMOND

.3-2 CAMALOT C4

667

$404.70

BLACK DIAMOND

.3 C4 + .4-2 CAMALOT UL

526

$524.30

DMM

00-4 DRAGON

632

$447.70

WILD COUNTRY

0-2 FRIEND

684

$404.70

TOTEM

0.65-1.80

638

$482.70

METOLIUS

2-7 MASTERCAM UL

488

$364.70

cost set is the MasterCam UL with the Camalot UL C4 added as the biggest cam. The new BD Camalot ULs were the most expensive set while the C4 and the new Friends were almost the same mass.

02: This comparison is for the common 0.3-4 Camalot set.

Again,Metolius has the lightest and lowest cost set of cams and BD has the most expensive set with its ULs. The Friends, Dragons and C4s are all very close in mass but the Friends and Dragons do have the extendable slings.

03: Here I tried to bring Totems into the mix. Since they have a set that is limited in the upper range by a Camalot 2 size equivalent, I simply compared an equivalent set from 0.3-2.0. Metolius, again, has the lightest and cheapest set of cams. The Totems are not overly weighty given their added functionality, but they are pricey.

I suppose one could start to look at the savings with reduced number of runners when considering the cams with extendable slings. My typical sling is a Mammut Contact 8 mm with two

CAMP Nano ‘biners, all of which weighs in at 78 grams. Given a set of DMM or Friends from 0.3-4 with extendable slings, I might be able to leave those runners behind and save 624 grams off my rack. It would really depend on how much the route wanders and if those extended slings are long enough.

I have yet to get my hands on any of these units but, from a preliminary look at these specs, there are already some glaring differences. In the end, though, only getting out on the rock with these on my rack will tell whether or not these design discrepancies are significant or not.

About the author: Topher Dabrowski started his climbing endeavors early and has been adventuring and climbing all over planet Earth for almost 3 decades. His activities include mountaineering, big walls, alpine, mixed, rock, ice, bouldering and long distance trail running. As an active member of the local ASCA rebolting chapter he can often be found replacing suspect anchors and reducing your chances of an expensive hospital bill.

Clockwise, from left: Head width comparison Wild Country Friend (upper) vs. Black Diamond Camalot, Size #3. Cost chart. Metolius Ultralight MasterCam placement.

JULY 2016 27

MAZAMA FAMILIES

Families on Alpine Rock! Tatoosh Style...

by Jason Linse Timing was excellent for Justin Rotherham’s Unicorn and Pinnacle Peak climbs, June 25–26. Inside Mt. Rainier National Park, the rain showers continued up until just hours before the Unicorn approach and had us biting our nails in suspense.

Fortunately the weather cleared as predicted—just in time— the climb was a GO! The team spotted fresh wildlife tracks on the Snow Lakes approach trail and noticed they were headed in our direction of travel. We rounded the corner to see elk below us at Bench Lake. This was a pleasant way to start the morning. Our team made good time up to the saddle where crossing the moat is the preferred summer route. Matt Fogarty, a 2016 Advanced Rock graduate and our climb assistant, had the belay reigns getting the team across the moat section and final ascent via the Open Book Cracks. Big summit smiles were had by all, along with some Woo­Hoo’n was had for the excellent glissading on the trip back down.

Sunday’s Pinnacle Peak climb via Reflection Lakes, assisted by Bill Stein and Matt Fogarty, started off with plentiful helpings of patchy snow travel right from the

28 MAZAMAS

Being involved in the Families Mountaineering 101 program has been such an incredible experience. When my whole family participated in the program during its 2015 inaugural year I had such a blast, I wanted to come back and assist the following year. I then joined both the Families Committee and Families Education Subcommittee, participated in the newly developed Crag Leader program run by Craig Martin and Justin Rotherham, assisted in the monthly Family Rock Skills nights held in the Mazama Mountaineering Center, and more. Being able to add value where I can is both fun and immensely rewarding. parking lot and a fair bit of “who knows what’s around the next corner” continuing to the saddle. The southern aspect of Pinnacle proved to be snow free and locating our route via the short direct scree climb happened quickly. Before I knew it the scrambling had started and a fixed line was in place as backup. The descent was a trio of enjoying the amazing scenery around us, noticing the feet starting to feel a little worked, and wondering how amazing the burgers will be down in Ashford at Rainier Mountaineering Base Camp Grill.

Nothing less than an outstanding performance was demonstrated by both Matt Fogarty and Forest, his 7-year-old son over the weekend and certainly worthy of mention. They are quite the climbing team and I feel proud to have climbed with them.

From left: Mazama Families on the summit of Unicorn Peak. Photo courtesy of the Chemeketans. Unicorn ascent. Photo: Anna Lio. Unicorn approach. Photo: Jason Linse.

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JULY 2016 29

Mazama Bob Wilson Expedition Grant recipients make the best of a bad weather window in Patagonia

by Maureen O’Hagan

C

limbing is supposed to be about journeys. We tell our friends stories about all the challenges encountered along the way and how we used our skills, strength and ingenuity to overcome them.

But often, our focus is on the summit—did we did make it to the top or not? All too often, it’s how we measure our success and our failure.

So what happens if you don’t make it to the summit? Especially when you’ve been given the opportunity of a lifetime?

This was the challenge faced by Brad Farra and Rebecca Schob Madore when they returned from a trip to Patagonia.

The trip was the first to receive support through the Bob Wilson Expedition Grant, a generous program funded by Wilson, a Mazama since 1962. His aim was to

30 MAZAMAS

support Mazamas with big goals in faraway places, and both Farra and Madore felt a responsibility to use the $10,000 grant wisely.

Yet, after spending three weeks in Patagonia, they came back without having summited a peak. There were good reasons for that—more on that later. Nonetheless, Farra and Madore’s disappointment felt like a weight. At times, it was hard to even talk about it.

“It’s a hard reality,” Madore said.

However, in the weeks and months after the trip, Madore began to understand something quite profound—about climbing, about herself, and about what she had to offer. ________________________________ Some climbers spend a lifetime aching to visit Patagonia. Most never get there. Yet here was Madore, a speech and language pathologist with just six years climbing experience, on her way to this climbing Mecca. Farra had been climbing seriously for more than 15 years. Madore saw him as

a climbing partner as well as a mentor.

Her climbing trajectory had been spectacular. She was dedicated, strong, and quickly developed skills. She had done so well that she had been asked to take on leadership roles within the Mazamas, but she was reluctant. After all, she only had six years of experience; what did she have to offer?

Farra knew she was fully capable. A chiropractor and certified strength and conditioning specialist at Evolution Health Care and Fitness, Farra developed a rigorous training plan to get them both in top physical condition. He and Madore had climbed in the North Cascades, in Alaska, and in Hyalite Canyon to test themselves in different terrain. They had devoured reports about Patagonia and consulted friends and acquaintances who had made the journey, asking them for advice.

“Prepare to fester,” one said. The words proved to be prescient. Their first 10 days in El Chaltén were spent watching and waiting for a weather window. They made good use of their time by scouting

Brad and Rebecca near the Patagonia Ice Cap. Photo: Rebecca Madore

approaches, but still, they waited. When the forecast finally looked good, they set off for Cerro Torre only to be stopped in their tracks by returning weather.

“Patagonia is known for apocalyptic winds,” Farra said.

Mother Nature got in the way of reaching their goal. But through the experience, Madore began to notice something.

Physically, she was more than ready.

“I felt unbreakable,” she recalled. “We covered all this terrain, this elevation gain and loss, day after day. It was really amazing. I felt like a super finely-tuned machine. I didn’t have to worry about my fitness at all.”

It was a powerful realization.

They spent another several days in El Chaltén studying meteograms and waiting for another window. They made a second attempt and again were turned away because of weather.

They had spent a year preparing but there was just no way they could accomplish what they set out to do.

“We went down there physically and

mentally prepared,” Farra said. “For a little while, I think we would have been able to push on, but the looming clouds and escalating winds made the decision: let’s bail before it’s really difficult to bail.”

Returning home, they were dejected. To Madore, this feeling was more difficult to deal with than the challenges of climbing.

She threw herself into projects to distract herself from dwelling on her expedition’s outcome.

She began to systematically purge unnecessary possessions—the clothes she no longer wore, the junk under the kitchen sink, the papers she’d been carrying around for 10 years.

“I did a lot of reading,” she said. “I took some time for personal reflection.”

She realized the thing she most struggled with wasn’t climbing skills (although those can always be improved.) It wasn’t physical conditioning. It was the mental aspects of a challenge like this. So she began digging into books to work on her mental preparation. “I realized that was the hardest piece for me,” she said.

She read about the Dalai Lama and forgiveness; she read The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho; she read Conquistadors of the Useless, by Lionel Terray. She kept on reading.

Before the trip, she was a proponent of the idea of rigorous self-assessment—that is, looking honestly at what you’re really capable of.

“I was really good at listing all the things I was bad at,” she realized. But she wasn’t simultaneously making a list of the things she was good at. “I also need to acknowledge those. I think that’s something we all share in as humans.

First among them: in her relatively short climbing career, she has learned a tremendous amount.

“I started giving myself credit for the things I have accomplished,” she said. “It’s made me understand I have plenty to offer.

I just didn’t recognize it in myself, even though other people did.”

She realized something else: it’s worth

continued on next page JULY 2016 31

Rebecca, climbing her way up to col de Esperanza from Circo de los Alteres. Cerro Rincon behind her.

Photo: Brad Farra. Inset: Brad starting up Glacier Marconi with Laguna Electrico in the background.

Photo: Rebecca Madore

Successes & Setbacks, continued from previous page sharing, especially with other women who climb.

“It made me want to invest more of my time in other female climbers and more leadership,” she said.

Madore has shied away from leadership in the past, thinking she didn’t have enough experience. But she now has a 32 MAZAMAS

different view.

“I have plenty of energy for other people. I want people to have the support and be as successful as I was able to be. I feel like I’m now in a place to understand I’m capable of giving that.”

She’s begun to give presentations geared toward women who climb, in the hopes she can inspire others to see their own potential. She’s also taken time to think more about her trip to Patagonia. Sure, she and Farra were disappointed at not reaching the summit of Cerro Torre. But that, she realizes, really misses the point.

Peak or not, she was in a jaw-dropping

place.

“I have a new definition of big,” she said.

“It’s incredibly awe-inspiring. I value those moments where I feel so little. You just understand the grandeur. It’s a really great check-in to be like, I’m so tiny. There are forces so much bigger than me, which is one of the reasons we climb.”

About the Author: Maureen O'Hagan is a writer and editor living in Portland. She has worked as a reporter for The Washington Post, The Seattle Times and Willamette Week. She now spends her work time writing mostly about food, and her play time cycling, climbing and hiking.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS May 7, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Scott Osbron, Asst: Patrice Cook. Chad Atwood, Kyle Branderhorst, Kylie Coleman, Timothy Niedermeyer, Stacey Reding, Erica Rothman, Malia Tam Sing, Joan Wallace, Amanda Menneking June 11, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Eric Einspruch, Asst: Justin Rotherham. Aaron Johnson, Anna Lio, Beck Johnson, John McIntyre June 19, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge.

Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Josha Moss.

Danielle Allen, Toby Contreras, Drew Dykstra, Justin Moulton, Justin Thibeault, Christine Troy, Walter Benz, Sean Moriarty June 19, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: James Jula, Asst: Ryan Reed. Nathan Cornell, Mary Godwin, Lori Ireland, Srinidhi Kaushik, Matt Krueger, Jessica Witt, Praveen Balaji June 20, Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Seeger Fisher.

Ann Marie Ames, Mark Duin, Marjorie Hendryx, Stan Meeuwsen, Stacey Reding June 23, Sacajawea and Matterhorn, Thorpe Creek Basin. Leader: Paul Steger, Asst: Kate Evans. Judith Baker, Lisa Oakland, Maggie Woodward June 25, Copper Mountain, Wagonwheel Lake. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Verna Burden. Joseph Kellett, Lucas Norris, Kat Penberthy, Kaitlin Rupert, James Stevenson June 25, Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse. Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst: Thomas Ulrich. Aaron Bailey, Matthew Bell, Chaitanya Sathe, John Sterbis, Barbara Weiss June 25, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Justin Rotherham, Asst: Matt Fogarty.

Forest Fogarty, Jason Linse, Anna Lio, John McIntyre, Clara McIntyre June 25, Mt. Baker, Boulder Glacier.

Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Larry Beck. Justin Colquhoun, Eddie Ferrer, Ghislain Gressard, David Roche, Daniel Sherman June 26, Broken Top, NW Ridge.

Leader: Terry Brenneman, Asst: Teresa Redman. Stephanie Bruckbauer, Eric Dattoli, Madeline Lowry Woods, Ashley Nelson, Amanda Ryan-fear, Rebecca Witherow, Nancy Lin June 26, Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lake. Leader: Justin Rotherham, Asst: Bill Stein. Forest Fogarty, Matt Fogarty, Kimberly Hefty, Anna Lio, David Stein, John McIntyre, Clara McIntyre, Everett Stein June 26, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Ryan Reed.

Isaac Etter, Tracy Gagnon, Claire Jarreau, Katherine Rogers, Rachel Sunstrom, Mark Wilson, Nick Morse

June 27, Copper Mountain, Tahoma Creek. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Brett Nair. Kate Evans, Sue Griffith, Christine Hadekel, Leigh Schwarz June 28, Mt. Ararat, Kautz Creek.

Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Brett Nair. Kate Evans, Sue Griffith, Christine Hadekel, Leigh Schwarz July 1, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier.

Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Brooke Weeber.

Aaron Bailey, Lauren Daniel, Virgil Hall, Charles Hanlon, Mike Klepfer, David Lumsden, Kristi Riedel July 2, Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver. Leader: Michael Hortsch, Asst: John Creager. Sujay Deshmukh, Kimberly Hefty, Michael Levis, Gary Riggs, Robert Sinnott July 2, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Daniel Mick. Rick Atherton, Eric Dattoli, Daniel Gibson, Bryan Oates, Grace Peters July 6, Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Michael Austin. John Andrews, Brandon Dubois, Steven Loos, Chaitanya Sathe, Theodore Sindzinski, Suresh Singh July 9, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall. Leader: Rebecca Madore, Asst: Larry Beck. Kimberly Edger, Kerry Loehr, Valerie Uskoski July 12, Naches and Tahtlum Peaks, Chinook Pass. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Paul Steger. Judith Baker, Greg Graham, Melinda Hugo July 13, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Robert Straub. Kristen Frank July 13, Dewey and Seymour Peaks, West Ridge. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Paul Steger. Judith Baker, Greg Graham, Melinda Hugo July 14, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Michael Austin. Mark Fowler, Jerome Leedy, Alex Lockard, Jeff Nastoff, Jonathon Severdia, Mark Stave July 16, Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Amy Brose. Dave Aerne, Gary Ballou, Dave Helzer, Christopher Killmer July 16, South Sister, South Side.

Leader: Patrice Cook, Asst: Stacey Reding.

Mark Korsness, Kristie Perry, Erik Korsness, Carlos Martins, Barbara Martins, Stephanie Routh

MAZAMA RESEARCH EVENING Monday, Aug. 22 at 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center The Mazamas Research Committee invites interested Mazamas to attend our upcoming Research Evening, when some researchers funded by Mazama grants will present their topics.

Glacier Research & Digital Walkabouts with Frank D. Granshaw, PhD of Portland State University's Department of Geology For a great many visitors to the high country a major player in alpine landscapes, glaciers, feel as distant and inaccessible as the moon. Likewise the critical glacier-climate research taking place is often unknown and rather abstract. To bridge this gap, Granshaw has been working with PSU researchers, National Park Staff, and students and staff from Juneau Icefield Research Project to develop a series of digital walkabouts of glaciers in Oregon, Washington, and Alaska to provide the uninitiated with a virtual sense of what it's like to walk on a glacier and familiarize them with the important climate related research taking place on the.

THE MT. RAINIER FUMAROLE CAVE PROJECT WITH EDUARDO CARTAYA OF THE U.S. FOREST SERVICE, DESCHUTES NATIONAL FOREST The Mt. Rainier Fumarole Cave Project is an integrated study of the various processes and ecology of one of the largest volcanic crater glacier cave systems in the world. Unlike regular rock caves, or even conventional glacier caves, such as those on Mt. Hood, the geomorphology of fumarole caves are driven by a complex suite of processes, including climate, geothermal, geochemistry, and airflow, working in concert to form and change the cave system year by year, and sometime week by week. The caves not only contain laboratories for astrobiology, climatology, and hydrochemistry, but may well serve as an indicator to changing behavior of this dangerous volcano. The extensive mapping efforts will also assist rescuers in the event of an incident in these caves, which are visited by climbers regularly. Listen to the latest update on this ongoing study in one of the most inhospitable environments in the US. Eddy Cartaya, the project coordinator, will guide you on a photo and video journey of this incredible cave system, and share the challenges and success of the team that work there to gather this valuable data.

JULY 2016 33

OUTINGS

ADVENTURE TRAVEL—FOREIGN & DOMESTIC LOST COAST TRAIL TREK SEP. 15–22, 2016 Join us as we hike California's Lost Coast Trail, a ~60 mile trek along a wild and scenic portion of the Northern California Coast betweem Eureka and Ft. Bragg.

The trail crosses sand and rock beaches as well as going up into the coastal mountains with their majestic redwood groves.

The six to eight participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience in at least one 50 mile (or greater) trek. We will be traveling light and fast, ~10 miles per day with daily elevation gains varying from near 0 to almost 2,000 feet.

The cost of the outing is $323 to $395 (depending on number of participants) and covers all fees and lodging costs. See more details in the July 2016 Bulletin.

Contact the leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) or assistant Rex Breunsbach (rbreunsbach@gmail.com) for more information.

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS—HIKES & CULTURE SEP. 25–OCT. 1, 2016 Explore spectacular Appalachian scenery and experience culture in western North Carolina. There will be B-level hikes, 7–8 miles with elevation gain up to 2,000 ft., with options for harder ones. Typical pace will be leisurely.

Cost is $495–$565, depending on number of participants, includes lodging, one meal,

and all fees. Participants are responsible for their meals, airline cost (estimated $550), and car rental.

Maximum 26 participants. $200 deposit due June 30. For information and approval to participate, contact leader Bill Dewsnap, billdewsnap@ gmail.com, 503-260-6712. For information only, contact assistant leader: Tony Spiering aespiering@gmail.com, 503680-8112. Jim Selby, who has led this outing in the past, will also be participating in the outing and advising the trip leaders.

Jim lived in this area for a number of years and has insider information on all the great places to go!

MARIN COUNTY ADVENTURE WEEK OCT. 23–29, 2016 Hike the beautiful trails of the Marin County region, through redwood forests, along the coast, and into the Bay Area. This outing will be in cooperation with the Mazama Lodge and will be organized similarly to Round the Mountain and the Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend.

We will stay in two different historic lodges on the flanks of Mount Tamalpais: California Alpine Club’s Alpine Lodge and the West Point Inn. Food will be provided, but as at the Mazama Lodge we will all pitch in to assist with prep, clean-up, and other chores. Typical hikes will be A- or B-level, depending on the group’s interests and desires. Cost is approximately $950 based on

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@ aol.com.

34 MAZAMAS

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”

approximately 21 participants.

Note that nonmember cost is $60 more than member cost.

Price includes all food, lodging, transportation to the hikes, and most of the entry fees. Cost does not include transportation to/ from California, but coordination and carpooling with the other participants is encouraged.

Contact Charles Barker at the Mazama Lodge (lodge@ mazamas.org) or Rick Amodeo at rickamodeo@yahoo.com for more information. Sign-up deadline is Aug. 1, 2016, and a $200 deposit is required.

CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24, 2017 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+.

Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees and the Midi-Hellbronner

gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas. org for more information.

YELLOWSTONE OUTING JULY 30–AUG 5, 2017 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017. Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders. We will day hike for five days (Monday through Friday). There will be two hikes offered each day (a combination of A and B-level hikes) in the national park.

Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park. Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175.00 for members and $245.00 for nonmembers.

We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register for this fun and scenic hiking opportunity.

CLASSIC MAZAMAS FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE

W

e lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net, or Executive Council liaison Kate Evans at 503-635-6540, kateevans97@ gmail.com, or classics@ mazamas.org.

LEADING EVENTS IN SEPTEMBER If you are interested in leading an event next month, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert by August 12.

TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@ comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

AUG 10: HOYT ARBORETUM STROLL Leisurely 2 to 3 mile stroll with some ups and downs along the White Pine, Wildwood, and Redwood trails with stops along the way to enjoy the trees. Meet at the visitor center at 9:45 a.m.

and start at 10 a.m. Mazama Classic members are free, others $2. No host lunch afterwards.

Leader: Marty Hanson, 503-2270974, martyhanson@mazamas. org.

AUG 17: TAMANAWAS FALLS, MT. HOOD HIKE We will meet at the MMC at 9:00 a.m. to carpool about 75 miles to the trailhead. The hike is easy, relatively flat, and 3.4 miles round trip. A NW Forest Pass is required. Pack a picnic lunch as we will stop and enjoy the falls while we eat. Leader: Steve Couche, 503-998-0185 steveco1948@comcast.net.

Advanced sign up required.

AUG 24: HOYT ARBORETUM STROLL Leisurely 2 to 3 mile stroll with some ups and downs along the Wildwood, Oak, and Viet Nam Memorial trails with stops along the way to appreciate the area.

Meet at the visitor center at 9:45 a.m. and start at 10 a.m. Mazama Classic members are free, others $2. No host lunch afterwards. Leader: Marty Hanson, 503-227-0974, martyhanson@mazamas.org.

AUG. 27–SEPT. 2: CLASSIC HIKERS’ GETAWAY LONG BEACH PENINSULA Five days of relaxed pace hiking on the Long Beach Peninsula including Fort Columbia, the many trails in Cape Disappointment State Park, the Discovery Trail, and Leadbetter Point. See Trail Trips hike listing. For those who want to camp in the area Cape Disappointment State Park will be the leader’s base. Early reservations are recommended.

For details contact leader Ray

Sheldon at rbshldn@pacifier. com.

AUG. 29: CLASSICS MEETING, MMC, 11 A.M. Come help shape our late summer and fall events. We are also looking for event leaders and a co-chair SEPT. 16: LUNCH AT THE LODGE AT NOON Come join the Classics for lunch at the Lodge at noon. You can drive or come in a van or bus provided by the Mazamas.

The lunch is free, but the van or bus will cost $10, and leave from the MMC at 10 a.m. If you are interested in the van or bus you MUST RSVP to Dyanne Foster at dyfozter@gmail .com or 503267-8937 by Friday Sept. 9. If you are not riding in the van or bus, please RSVP to Dyanne for lunch by Tuesday, Sept. 13.

SEPT. 21: SALMON RIVER WALK We will meet at the MMC at 9:00 a.m. to carpool to the trailhead. The 2 1/2 mile one way trip is relatively flat, and we will likely make some detours to the edge of the river to see Chinook salmon spawning and digging their redds. If the weather cooperates we should get some good views of salmon moving up the river to spawn.

Bring a lunch as we will stop at a nice location along the river to enjoy the sounds of the water and the beauty of the river.

Leader: Steve Couche, 503998-0185 steveco1948@comcast. net. Advanced sign up required.

DEC. 16: CLASSICS HOLIDAY PARTY AT NOON AT THE MMC

JULY 2016 35

TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

WEBSITE UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas. org/activities-events/hikeschedule/ for updates!

HK C2 Aug 01 (Mon) Buck Peak (Lolo Pass). Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Hike along the PCT. Enjoy lunch with an unforgettable view of M.t Hood from the northwest side. 16 mi., 1351 ft., Drive 100, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (MH) HK B2 Aug 03 (Wed) McNeil Point via Bald Mountain. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Top Spur Trail up, then onto the steep, meadowed face of Bald Mountain. A loop around Bald Mt. to the Timberline Trail leading to the climber's route up on the west side of Mt. Hood. A climb thru a wildflower meadow and a rock scramble to reach the iconic stone shelter at McNeil Point. Back along the more gentle McNeil Point Trail. 9 mi., 2,900 ft., Drive 104, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 05 (Fri) Red Mountain.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Exploratory.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g.

1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a mod36 MAZAMAS

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

Wilderness—Limit 12. indicates that the hike enters a Forest Servicedesignated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

#17 in Kent Meyers Book Hiking The Trails of the Gifford Pinchot Forest.

At 4,975 ft., Kent tells us that Red Mountain was the first lookout built in the forest (1910) 8 mi., 1600 ft., Drive 130, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 06 (Sat) Hamilton Mountain Loop & Little Beacon Rock. Tom Eggers 503-334-6356.

Traditional hike with a bonus! Join us for a little bit of everything— waterfalls, trees, flowers, basalt formations, ridgelines, and spectacular views into the Gorge, towards Mount St. Helens and Mt. Adams. Steady, switchbacks uphill to the summit and return loop via Don's Cutoff and the Hardy Creek trail.

Bonus side trip at the end to the small pinnacle of Little Beacon Rock—a seldom visited outcropping offering different but equally dramatic views.

Group will stay together. Bring your ten essentials and plenty of water.

9 mi., 2,200 ft., Drive 88, State Park, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF)MU erate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING Everyone is welcome.

See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/aym/

HK C2 Aug 06 (Sat) Paradise Park from Hwy 26. Dan Smith 971-3314823. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will start near the Kiwanis Camp and hike up to Timberline trail. There may be some wildflowers with great views.

We will have lunch at Paradise Park ridge or split rock. Paradise Loop if the group wants it. Call for a spot but it will open up at 6:45 a.m. if you are not there. 15 mi., 3,100 ft., Drive 89 mi., TH, Gateway 7 a.m. (WF,AR,MH) HK B2 Aug 07 (Sun) Gnarl Ridge.

Bill Stein 503-830-0817. Spots will go to the first 11 who e-mail billstein. rpcv@gmail.com by Friday, Aug. 5.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Preview one of the most spectacular destinations of Round-the-Mountain, whether you'll be joining that Labor Day weekend Mazamas excursion or not. You won't soon forget the close-up view of Mt. Hood's northeast side. 8.9 mi., 2,460 ft., Drive 126, TH, Gateway 8 a.m.

(AR,MH,WO)

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people

STREET RAMBLES

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

HK C2 Aug 07 (Sun) Wauna Point.

Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Wilderness— Limit 12. Join us for this hike with a long hike up to a fabulous viewpoint of the gorge. The route is steep and long and does involve some routefinding. The elevation gain is quite gradual but the hike down to the viewpoint is steep and there is a lot of exposure. We might not go out to the final diving board. Either way we should get great views! 10.4 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 70, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,WO) MU HK B2 Aug 08 (Mon) Soda Peaks.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com. Unique hike in the Gifford Pinchot Forest and the Trapper Creek Wilderness.

Steep uphill 700 ft., then down to the lake. On our way back we will summit Soda Peak. Be prepared for some light bushwhacking. Long pants and poles recommended. 6 mi., 1,675 ft., Drive 140, MMC 8 a.m. (AR)

per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

HK A1.5 Aug 10 (Wed) Hoyt Arboretum. Marty Hanson 503-2270974. Leisurely 2- to 3-mile stroll with some ups and downs along the White Pine, Wildwood, and Redwood trails with stops along the way to enjoy the trees. Meet at the visitor center at 9:45 a.m. and start at 10 a.m. Mazama Classics members are free, others $2. No host lunch afterwards. 3 mi., 200 ft., Drive 0, Arboretum Visitor Center 10 a.m.

HK B2 Aug 17 (Wed) Saddle Mountain. Tony Spiering 503680-8112. The tallest mountain in Clatsop County. Views from the beach to the Cascades on a clear day. Some exposure towards the top but well maintained. Well used in the summer but should see lighter use on a Wednesday. Plan on a longer day with driving time. 7.2 mi., 1900 ft., Drive 96, TH Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR)

HK C2 Aug 10 (Wed) Whetstone Mountain. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Experience beautiful Bull of the Woods Wilderness with a hike that includes more than 20 switchbacks to the summit. Close up view of Mt. Jefferson and panoramic views from Mt. Rainier to the Sisters to Mary's Peak on the coast. 11 mi., 3,500 ft., Drive 190, TH, MMC 7:30 a.m.

SR A1, A2, A3 Aug 18 (Thu) Portland Street Rambles. Mazama Mountaineering Center 503-2272345. Leave from REI-Pearl (NW 14th & Johnson) starting at 6 p.m.

Bring a headlamp.

HK B2 Aug 12 (Fri) Wood Lake/Sawtooth Mountain.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Located in Indian Heaven, we will hike along the PCT to Wood Lake. On our return we will take in the close-up views of Mt. Adams from Sawtooth Mountain 9 mi., 2,000 ft., Drive 140, TH, MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Aug 13 (Sat) Heritage Tree #5, Alameda. Tom Guyot 503-7619519. Enjoy an urban hike to see Heritage Trees in the Alameda area.

On this moderately-paced hike, we will see 25 spectacular trees representing 12 species, including a rare Judas Tree. This is a dog friendly hike. Meet at the intersection of NE Failing and NE 18th which is at the SE corner of Sabin Elementary School playground. Park on nearby side streets. 3.8 mi., 285 ft., Drive 0, none 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Aug 13 (Sat) Cape Horn. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We will do the classic Cape Horn hike. Stupendous views of the Gorge on this greatly enhanced trail. Guaranteed to have a great lunch spot. No more than 12 on this hike, back to Gateway by 4 p.m. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR,MH,WO)MU HK C2.5 Aug 13 (Sat) Barrett Spur (Vista Trail). Bob Breivogel 503-2922940. Wilderness—Limit 12. A short but steep hike up the north side of Mt. Hood. About half is on the Vista Ridge Trail, then on more primitive tracks on the spur. Great wildflowers and view of the Ladd and Coe Glaciers. 8.8 mi., 3,435 ft., Drive 140, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (AR,MH,WO)

HK A1.5 Aug 21 (Sun) Steigerwald National Wildlife Refuge. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. This is a classic evening hike. We will take our time and enjoy lots of birds and views of the Gorge. Back to Gateway by 9:30 p.m. 5 mi., 50 ft., Drive 38, TH, Gateway 5 p.m. MU HK A1.5 Aug 24 (Wed) Hoyt Arboretum. Marty Hanson 503-2270974. Leisurely 2- to 3-mile stroll with some ups and downs along the Wildwood, Oak, and Vietnam Memorial trails with stops along the way to appreciate the area. Meet at the visitor center at 9:45 a.m. and start at 10 a.m. Mazama Classic members are free, others $2. No host lunch afterwards. 3 mi., 100 ft., Drive 0, Arboretum Visitor Center 10 a.m.

HK C1.5 Aug 27 (Sat) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Nancy Goering ngoering@att.net. Email leader to reserve a spot. Wilderness—Limit 12. Climbers know North Lake as a steep conditioner but done in summer it's actually a nice destination with a swimmable lake at the end. We'll go at a comfortable pace allowing those of us that have endurance but not speed to enjoy this hike. We'll pause long enough at the lake to take a dip if you're so inclined. The days aren't so long in late summer, so an earlier start time ensures that we have adequate time to enjoy ourselves. 13.2 mi., 4,160 ft., Drive 88, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(GH,WO) HK A1.5 Aug 28 (Sun) Leadbetter Point. Ray Sheldon 360-991-8489.

Trail goes along Willapa Bay, then across the peninsula to the Pacific.

Then travel south along a beach and turn inland to return to the car. 4 mi., 230 ft., Drive 260, State Park, 9 a.m. Note: This hike meets at the trailhead—no Portland carpool location. From Ocean Shores, Washington travel north on Hwy. 103 for 9 miles through Oysterville

STREET RAMBLES Tuesdays & Thursday Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

Wednesday Mt. Tabor Street Rambles Walk at a brisk pace (2.5-3.0 mi/hr.) through the streets, admiring the gardens of SE Portland to Mt. Tabor Park—we may even catch a glimpse of a heritage tree. In the park, we’ll take alternating trails to the top of the 280 stairs at the NE corner of the park.

From there we will have 30 minutes to walk up and down the stairs, then finish with a moderate stroll back to the MMC. 2 hours, 5 mi., 500 ft. (not including stairs climbed up/down). $2 fee. Leave from Mazama Mountaineering Ctr, SE 43rd & Stark at 6 p.m. (please arrive early to sign in).

to Stackpole Rd, then .7 mile to trailhead, 1.5 miles from Leadbetter Park entrance.

HK A1.5 Aug 29 (Mon) Discovery Trail. Ray Sheldon 360-991-8489.

We will hike west to the Pacific and a short stroll to the base of North Head. Then we go north for the 4.7 mile hike on the Discovery Trail and shuttle back to the cars. 5.2 mi., 230 ft., Drive 230, 9a.m. Note: This hike meets at the trailhead—no Portland carpool location. In Ilwaco, Washington, take Hwy 101 right at stop light onto Hwy 100 towards Cape Disappointment; after 1.9 mi. turn right at sign for Beards Hollow and parking lot.

HK A1.5 Aug 30 (Tue) North Head Lighthouse & McKenzie Head. Ray Sheldon 360-991-8489. We hike the .6 mile loop stopping at the Lighthouse.

Then from our cars we take the 1.9 mile hike out to McKenzie Head and

the views over the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean. 4.2 mi., 800 ft., Drive 230, 9a.m. Note: This hike meets at the trailhead—no Portland carpool location. From Ilwaco, Washington go towards Cape Disappointment on Loop 100. After 2.3 mi. turn right on N. Head Lighthouse Rd for .5 mile. Park in gravel lot on right.

HK A1.5 Aug 31 (Wed) Cape Disappointment. Ray Sheldon 360991-8489. We will hike various trails that lead us to the Cape D Lighthouse, the Pacific side of the Cape, and a coastal forest. 4 mi., 400 ft., Drive 230, State Park, 9a.m. Note: This hike meets at the trailhead—no Portland carpool location. At the stop light in Ilwaco, Washington go straight on Loop 100 for 4 mi. to the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center parking lot.

503.684.9698

JULY 2016 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members.

by Jamie Anderson, Mazama Member Services Manager July was a relatively quiet month, as project work continues and planning for next fiscal year is underway.

There is big news from Youth Outreach. The Centennial School District is partnering with the Mazamas to send all five hundred of its fifth graders to the Mazama Mountain Science School next year. The Mazamas will be working with the school district, teachers, grant funders, and local businesses to make outdoor school accessible.

In advocacy, Adam reported another successful Climbing Stewards event at Yosemite and began work with the Wilderness Program Director to develop a memorandum of understanding between the Mazamas and the National Parks. Locally, meetings continue with partners such as REI, Keen, and Travel Oregon to discuss how to best represent the interests of outdoor recreationalists in the state. (mention work towards a state department of recreation??)

Finally, Mathew Brock, our Library and Historical Collections manager has completed a review process and has a selected a system to make the library collection browsable online and to provide for electronic checkout.

Lee Davis, in his Executive Director’s report, also commented on upcoming major events in the fall, including committee chair orientation and how to best utilize that event. The Annual Meeting will be the first Monday of October. An event for the

Library and Historical Collections is also being planned to coincide with the Annual Meeting which will feature artifacts, lantern slides, and other stories from the collections. Portland Alpine Festival dates, Nov. 15–19, and most of the athlete line-up and venues have been set.

The most substantial part of the meeting was a presentation and brief Q&A session with Queta Gonzalez from the Center of Diversity and the Environment (CDE) in support of our continued work on Mazamas culture. CDE works to align the environmental movement with an increasingly diverse society, and have a proposal to work with the Mazamas to evaluate and create an equity, diversity, and inclusion strategy. While CDE works primarily on issues regarding people of color, the conversation explored issues of inclusivity across multiple markers of diversity, including income and gender.

In old business, Amy Mendenhall gave an update on the Climbing and Education Memorandum of Understanding.

She reports that positive work continues and that an approved draft is likely coming soon. The directors also voted on final language for a dues increase, details of which, including pro and con statements, can be found in the Voter Pamphlet. Finally, Lee presented a draft series of goals and priorities to guide the remainder of the budget process.

For complete reports on these topics and official minutes, please see the Mazama Member Pages at mazamas.org.

Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes.

Go to: mazamas.org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports. Please note: Full minutes are available on a one month delay due to the approval process.

38 MAZAMAS

ELECTRONIC VOTING IS HERE!

by Matt Carter This year, the Mazamas are offering electronic voting to all of our voting members.

The Nominating Committee looked hard at seven companies that provide online voting services, with a focus on a service that could accommodate members who do not use emails, comply with our bylaws, and ensure security.

The company we chose specializes in this kind of election and can meet all of our needs, including allowing members who share an email address to vote independently, just like with a standard mailing address. They will also make sure no one votes twice and allow members who opt-out to continue to vote the traditional way, via a paper ballot. We hope this will improve the voting experience and increase voter turn out. Another advantage is cost. If you vote electronically it will save the Mazamas about $3.

Paper ballots will still be allowed, though you only get to vote one way, electronic or paper.

WHAT IS NEXT? ▶▶ Please take a few minutes to ensure that the email address the Mazamas has on file for you is current. How do you do this? ▷▷ Check your listing in the Mazama Directory on the Mazama member web page (once logged into mazamas.org, click on Member and then click on Membership Directory) ▷▷ If it is incorrect, you can update it here: tinyurl. com/MazUpdate ▶▶ Check your spam filter from time to time— This is important! ▶▶ If you want to opt-out of e-voting, complete this form: tinyurl.com/MazOptOut OR call the office at 503-2272345 ▶▶ When the polls open, vote. ▶▶ Nominating Committee volunteers will enter paper ballots into the electronic system.

We encourage all members to vote online save money and time.

Mazama Annual Election Executive Council Candiate bios, proposed byaws amendments, pro/con statements for theh proposed bylaws amendements, and more can be found at: mazamas.org/about-us/executive-council/ Executive Council Director Candidates Steve Couche Bruce Nisker Laura Pigion Marty Scott Barbara Weiss

Nominating Committee Candidates Lis Cooper Alex Fox Kristie Perry

JULY 2016 39