Mazama February 2016

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FEB. 2016 • VOL. 98 | NO. 2

find your inspiration to climb high Alaska: Hidden Mountains The Nordwand Adventure WILD 2016 Hiking on the Dry Side


Features

Contact Us

Mazama Staff

Alaska: Hidden Mountains, p. 6 Mazama Expedition Grants, p. 7 Time Warp, p. 8 Hiking on the Dry Side, p. 11 The Nordwand, p. 12 Adventure WILD Camp 2016, p. 14 We Climb High & Protect Public Lands, p. 18

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503-227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Lee Davis • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager • sarah@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org Laura Burger • Membership & Development Assistant • laura@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Monthly Columns Upcoming Events & Classes, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Successful Climbers, p. 5 Evening Travel Programs, p. 9 Mazama Lodge, p. 10 Outings, p. 15 Mazama Families, p. 18 Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM), p. 16 Classic Mazamas, p. 17 Trail Trips, p. 20 Executive Council, p. 22 Membership Report, p. 22 Correction: In the January Bulletin the cover photo is of Mt. Stuart from base camp before climbing the East Ridge of Ingalls peak. The photo was taken by Chris Wilson.

Publications Committee Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org

Committee Members: Catherine Diaz, Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Lacy Turner

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Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama. lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon Cover: A climber entering the East Gully on Mt. Hood North Face. Photo: Denis Lee. Adventurous Young Mazamas at the Alvord Desert. Photo: Sándor Lau.

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas. org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 19 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 17 Centered in Motion, p. 12 Classifieds, p. 17 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 10 Embark Adventures, p. 5 Montbell, p. 24 Mountain Shop, p. 23 Next Adventure, p. 12 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 18 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 12 Advertise with us! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising


EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT

Priorities & Focus for 2016 Just a few weeks ago I had a longtime member tell me they had no idea what the Mazamas strategic plan was, nor what it meant for the organization. I responded that while we’ve been discussing the plan internally for years now, we are still working to communicate the plan to all of our members. So, this short article is intended to do just that. Through the early part of the 20th century the Mazamas were a highly visible, important, and influential organization not just for Portland, but for all of the northwest. We were the primary source for information on the mountains, for outdoor education and activities, and we were a leading voice in our community, advocating effectively for access and conservation of the mountain environment. We are working today to rebuild the Mazamas, and to once again be the most important organization in our region for everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains. To do this, the Mazamas is investing in a series of projects designed to reinvent our program-service model to be modern, relevant, and scalable. Here are our top 5 priority projects for 2016: 1. Reinventing our leader development systems to efficiently and effectively develop our future volunteer leaders. 2. Building an integrated IT system to provide modern and efficient ways for volunteers and participants to engage in our activities and programs, and to find the information they need. 3. Building new youth

outreach and family programs to help get kids outside, and to recruit and train the next generation of Mazamas. 4. Building a sustainable stewardship and advocacy program, to organize and engage our community in caring for and conserving our public lands, and to clearly and consistently represent the voice of the Mazamas in our community. 5. Building a development ( fundraising) department to responsibly gather support from donors, foundations, and community partners to ensure that Mazamas has the resources it needs to succeed in the future. We are able to do all of this because of the amazing support we receive from our volunteers who keep core programs running smoothly, our members and friends who are supporting these efforts with their donations of time, skill, and money, and the Mazamas Foundation who always has our back.

Lee Davis Executive Director

Executive Council Corner Dear Members, Starting at our fall retreat, Executive Council (EC) has been working to improve our own effectiveness and efficiency as a board. We ask our directors to volunteer their time for the benefit of the Mazamas, and in return we endeavor to use that time efficiently, and for the highest possible benefit to the Mazamas. As a step in this direction, starting this year we are making some changes to the agenda and format of our normal monthly meetings. First, we are planning more time to think about and discuss strategic and policy issues. In order to add focus and time to these areas we are changing our meeting agendas to an alternating format: Even months will be focused on finance, operations, and committee reporting, while odd months will be focused on strategic and policy issues. All committees have typically reported every other month, and we are now asking them to report on the same cycle, starting with the February meeting. Then, in odd-months we will focus on two or three major strategic topics. For example, at our upcoming March meeting we will take a close look at leadership development and youth outreach programming, while also planning for the spring board retreat. Next, we’ve asked all committees to schedule their regular monthly meetings so that they don’t fall on the same evening as the board meetings. We want to ensure that our board members are able to attend committee meetings, and that all of our volunteer committee members are able to attend EC meetings. And finally, in an effort to improve communications, we have authorized a member open comment period at the beginning of each EC meeting, where voting members can appear before the board and share any reasonable matter of concern or interest. Members are allowed two minutes maximum, and must appear in person. We request that members bring topics that focus on organization-wide issues such as policy matters, strategic issues facing the Mazamas, and/or risk management. Lower-level issues should, of course, be brought to staff or the appropriate committee chair. Formal rules are posted in the members’ section of the website on the Mazama policies page. If you are motivated to take your two minutes to speak out, show up at the EC meeting promptly at 6:30 p.m. and answer the call when it comes up on the agenda. We look forward to hearing what’s on your mind! Thank you all for your support of the Mazamas.

Steve Hooker, Mazama President president@mazamas.org

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Used Equipment Sale The best time of year to move out the old to make way for the new

The Used Equipment Sale (UES) is an annual event. Sellers can make some money by letting go of unused gear and buyers can get great deals on field-tested equipment. You’ll find Nordic and telemark ski gear, snowshoes, all kinds of outdoor clothing, assorted (and we do mean assorted!) camping and backpacking gear, shoes and boots, books, and technical climbing gear will all be available. This is your last chance to rid your your gear room of unneeded stuff, make a buck, help out the Mazamas, and find some great deals yourself. ▶▶ Date: Friday, March 25; 5–8 p.m. ▶▶ Times: 5–6 p.m. for Mazama members & students enrolled in Mazama climbing classes; 6–8 p.m. for the general public ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center (527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR) ▶▶ How to help: Sign up for your preferred volunteer assignment using the link below. Please do so as soon as possible so we may coordinate this great event. https://sites.google.com/site/uesmazama/

Tree Planting

Ensure a healthy watershed for future generations The forests around Mt. Hood not only offer spectacular recreational opportunities and critical habitat for wildlife, they also store carbon, stabilize soils, and provide clean drinking water to metropolitan Portland. To help ensure the future of our wellused forests, the Conservation Committee has partnered with the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council for restoration-style planting events. This is a great way to meet other Mazamas, go for a walk in the woods, and help ensure a healthy watershed for future generations of hikers, climbers, and water-drinkers everywhere. Can’t join us March 12, but love the idea of being an active steward? Keep an eye on the Bulletin for upcoming trail tending events or stop in for a Conservation Committee meeting. We meet the third Tuesday of every month, 7 p.m., at the MMC. ▶▶ Date: Saturday, March 12 ▶▶ Time: 8 a.m. ▶▶ Location: Meet at MMC, carpool to Sandy River Basin/Zigzag area ▶▶ SIGN UP: http://goo.gl/forms/6js8UpAzr0 ▶▶ Questions? Email Lea Wilson, lea.ione.w@gmail.com

Basic Rock Skills

Do you need to brush up on your basic rock climbing skills? This is your opportunity to refresh knot tying, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line and cleaning a top-rope anchor. Join us on the instructional climbing walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. If needed, you can rent rock shoes and other gear at The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th Ave.). ▶▶ Dates: Feb. 19, March 12, April 15, May 26, June 15 ▶▶ Time: 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center ▶▶ Cost: $15 per evening clinic. ▶▶ Register: mazamas.org/educationclasses/basic-rock-skills/ ▶▶ Required Gear: Climbing harness, 3 locking and 2 nonlocking carabiners, belay device, climbing helmet, personal protection (sometimes called a personal leash), prusik cord, and rock shoes or climbing boots.

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VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Storytellers, Writers, and Editors Wanted! Feb. 2

Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your collegeera editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive group? The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! We meet the first Tuesday of the month at 7 p.m. at the MMC. For more information, please contact Marketing & Publications Manager Sarah Bradham (sarah@mazamas.org) or Publications Chair Kristie Perry (publications@ mazamas.org).

Share Your Love of Mazamas with the Community: Feb. 8

The Outreach Committee represents the Mazamas by providing community presentations and representing the Mazamas at public events. We’ve got a fun series of events planned for the new year, and we need your help! You will join experienced volunteers as you learn how talk about the Mazamas at a community event and share how we can fit with the active lifestyles of nearly any person who loves to get outdoors. Join us at our second-Monday-of-the-month meeting to learn more, or contact outreach@ mazamas.org.

Conservation Committee Members: Feb. 17 The Mazama Conservation Committee is recruiting new members to support our work advocating for protection and management of natural areas in support of healthy ecosystems; educating membership; and guiding the Mazamas to become carbon neutral. Join us at our February meeting to discuss our past, present, and future work. Contact Tom Bard, Chair, to RSVP – bardtom535@gmail.com.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS

KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG

Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl. com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

Second Community Culture Conversation: Feb. 10

Did you miss your chance to attend the first community culture meeting in January? We’ll repeat this meeting on Wednesday, Feb. 10 at 7 p.m. We’ll meet next door to the MMC at the Multnomah Friends Meeting center. RSVP here: http://goo.gl/forms/BSuDMkHBwc or email Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, with questions.

Spring Tree Planting: Feb. 12

Mark your calendar for the Conservation Committee’s spring tree planting event with the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council. See the notice on page 4 for more details.

Used Equipment Sale: March 24 & 25

The annual Used Equipment Sale is just around the corner and we need your help! Volunteers are needed on Thursday, March 24 for gear intake and sorting, and on Friday, March 25 to manage the sales floor. We need both team leaders and support volunteers. Check out the event website: https://sites.google.com/site/ uesmazama/ where you can learn more about the volunteer jobs and sign up to help.

Jan. 7, Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows. Leader: Leora Gregory, Asst: Jay Avery. Scott Britell, Ghislain Gressard, Drew Lesch-Wragge.

INTERESTED IN CLIMBING THIS WINTER? The weather is a little more fickle in the winter so the climb schedule works a little bit differently than it does in the summer. Get details: mazamas.org/ activities-events/winter-climb-schedule/ FEBRUARY 2016

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Alaska: Hidden Mountains by Zach Clanton

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his expedition had its beginnings in 2013, while I completed a 21-day snowboarding and climbing trip in the Tordrillo Mountains. During an initial recon flight and subsequent ground travel in this range, I became increasingly aware of its alpine rock climbing potential as we walked past beautiful orange granite. It was incredible to me that these glaciated and craggy peaks, world renowned for heli-skiing, were relatively unexplored for rock climbing. I told myself I’d return for a closer look in summer. It wasn’t until June 2015 that I got the chance to do another recon flight; this time I had an eagle eye for accessing these big rock walls. Flying low and slow, we circled and soared around numerous pinnacles, close enough to the rock to feel like we were actually climbing. In doing so, we scoped an incredible amount of terrain; however, rapid snowmelt alongside crevasse-riddled landing zones and approaches discouraged us. We continued our flight, looking for a less glaciated area. Our search brought us into the neighboring Hidden Mountains, and what we found was absolutely stunning. Initially, we spotted a set of gorgeous granite pyramids that upon further investigation proved to be unnamed, unclimbed, and completely unexplored. The Hidden Mountains are a small group of peaks located between the Tordrillo Mountains and the Revelations. They have seen only a handful of expeditions, mostly unsuccessful, and it was very apparent why: The rugged and remote nature of these peaks seems to repel any sort of serious effort. Fred Beckey once lined up a trip here that cost a fortune in flying logistics alone. This year, with summer temperatures a month advanced, a ski plane-accessed base camp-style expedition was out of the question. We had to find somewhere free of snow. These mystery peaks were perfect for the occasion.

The rugged and remote nature of these peaks seems to repel any sort of serious effort. Fred Beckey once lined up a trip here that cost a fortune in flying logistics alone.

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After weeks of logistical nightmares, I finally figured out what it would take to approach these peaks. We launched our expedition from Nikiski, flying 70 miles across the Cook Inlet and into the mountains. Our pilot, Doug Brewer, and I took off in a Super Cub, using that as a recon/shuttle aircraft, while my partners James Gustafson and Tim Plotke followed behind in a Beaver floatplane. With high winds and water in all directions near the shore of Chakachamna Lake, we struggled to find an appropriate landing zone for both the floatplane and Super Cub, so Doug and I continued toward our objective, seeing how close we could land. After extensive searching and multiple bear sightings, the closest we could get was 12 miles from our destination. The terrain we had to travel looked like serious bushbashing along Another River but we were very committed at this point. From Chakachamna Lake, Doug shuttled in James, Tim, and the rest of our gear. It took us five days to travel those 12 miles. Incessant mosquitos and alders blocked our path, and a machete was required to cut our way through the denser areas. Some days I would throw down my pack at the end of an exhausting 14-hour day and see that we had gone only 1.8 miles. Some

bears were indifferent to our passing but others showed signs of curiosity and aggressiveness. On one occasion, our only option was to spray buckshot from our twelve-gauge to deter them. Eventually, we made it into the rocky cirque that we had begun calling Talliktok (native word for Hidden). We made ourselves at home by pitching our Mega-mid on a flat rock. In the weeks that followed, we made the first ascent of Uyuraq (meaning Brother) via it’s north ridge (4 pitches, 5.7) and made multiple attempts at a direct line up the west face of Talliktok, climbing corner systems up to 5.10, which all ended in dangerously loose rock and very questionable belays. On “halfway” weather days—when we weren’t tentbound from the constant downpours— we had the chance to explore the extensive bouldering potential in the cirque as well. On our hike out, we were able to check out another untouched climbing venue we dubbed the Bear Slabs. After twenty-four days, we arrived back in civilization for glorious burgers and beers after the wildest adventure of our lives! The peak we’ve called Talliktok is still out there lurking in the clouds of the Hidden Mountains awaiting its first ascent. Who will be up for it?

Mazama Expedition Grants Hae you been inspired by this article? How about some of the previous expeditions you’ve seen your fellow Mazamas embark on? It’s never too early to start thinking about applying for one of our many expedition grants to help fund your journey. You may not even be aware of the number of expedition grants the Mazamas provides, both to members and nonmembers. Check out the list below, and then head on over to tinyurl.com/MazExpeditions to learn even more.

Bob Wilson Expedition Grants $10,000 annually PP Ideally for one large expedition, but may be split up to three ways if necessary. PP Application period: June 1–July 4 for an expedition to occur 6–18 months from the date of application.

Monty Smith Memorial Grant Awards vary PP This grant is awarded to Mazama members who wish to attempt challenging climbing expeditions around the world. PP Applications are due by Dec. 31

Left page: Tim Plotke exploring the bouldering potential in the Talliktok Cirque. Below: Tim Plotke crossing another river on our exit. The water was considerably higher the second time around! Photo: Zach Clanton

Mazama Leader Exploration Expedition Grant Awards vary PP The purpose of this grant is to promote expeditions by a Mazama member who wants to expand their range of climbing (or other activity) and then share the same or similar experience with others. PP Applications are due by Dec. 31

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Time Warp

Revisiting the experiences of Mazamas of 50+ years ago. by Jack Grauer

1966—50 YEARS AGO

Jack L. Henry reported on the outing to Mexico to climb its three highest peaks: Popocatepetl 17,761 feet, Ixtaccihuatl 17,343 feet, and Pico de Orizaba 18,851 feet. They caught a plane from Portland at 8:50 a.m. on Thursday, Dec 23, 1965, taking climbing gear, food and needed documents to enter Mexico. Intense smog blanketed Mexico City as they landed at 4:30 p.m. Gordon Fulks, the advance man, met the other ten outing members: Al Clapp, Phil Griffin, Ramona Hammerly, June Hauger, Jack Henry, Ed Johann Sr. and Ed Jr., Robert Kloster, Bill and Margaret Oberfteuffer. Rented Volkswagens, a sedan, and a microbus, were at the airport, ready to roll. A daring drive in the traffic jams of Mexico City revealed spectacular Christmas lighting. Their first night was a roadside bivouac. In the morning, they drove to Cortez Pass, a huge saddle between Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl, then turned south along the road to camp near an enormous climbing hut at 13,000 feet Obie awoke in the night to chase away nosy range cattle invading their tent camp. Christmas day dawned clear and icy. The party spent the day acclimatizing. The Obies, Bill and Margaret, drove away to seek a route to Orizaba, but they returned late to report no success. On Dec. 26, the party rose at 2 a.m. and soon were hiking toward Popocatepetl. At 11 a.m. nine climbers reached the crater rim and continued up 800 feet to reach the summit. They radioed Margaret Oberteuffer and Ed Johann Jr. who had remained at base camp. The climbers returned there at 6 p.m. On Dec 27, they drove across Cortez Pass to a camp below Ixtaccihuatl. Trouble appeared: a climber with stomach distress, one with a bad ankle, and the disappearance of the microbus keys. On Dec. 28, up at 2 a.m., eight climbers rose and started for Ixtaccihuatl. They passed the Knees Hut—an aluminum igloo—roped up, and donned crampons to traverse at 17,000 feet to the base of the summit dome. They reached the summit at 1 p.m., then took a different route down. Al Clapp, Ed Johann Sr., and Margaret Oberteuffer greeted them at base camp with tea and soup, and news that the lost microbus keys had been found. On Dec. 29, they drove toward Orizaba, which lay 100 miles east. At the city of Puebla they enjoyed shopping and showers, but avoided the danger of sickness caused by restaurant food. On Dec. 30, they drove in Tlachachuca village. The road to Piedra Grande was too steep and rough for the Volkswagens, so they loaded into the Dodge Power Wagon owned by Señor Reyes. Even the Dodge conked out, and they walked to the small aluminum quonset hut at 14,600 feet. All rose at 11:45 p.m., preparing for a difficult ascent. At 9:15 a.m. the next morning they stood on Orizaba’s summit. They returned to Piedra Grande at 1 p.m. and the Power Wagon picked them up at 4 p.m.

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1936— 80 YEARS AGO The Mazamas were planning their third trip to Hawaii. It would be shared with the Sierra Club and the Hawaiian Trail and Mountaineering Club. At the height of the wildflower season, they would visit places not usually seen by tourists on Oahu, Kauai, and Hawaii. $375 would cover all expenses on a first class steamship and hotels. Local walks in January were: January 12, a ski trip above Timberline with a run to Government Camp at 5 p.m. Leaders Bob Donaldson and Arthur Heusser. The same day, Mildred Smith led a hike to Tryon Creek, Carson Heights, and Slavin Road. Jan. 19, hike from Bridal Veil to Angel’s Rest, then down Waukeena Creek to the highway. A special bus carried the party for $1.45 per person. Leader was Clem Blakeny. Jan. 26, Emily Moltzner led a day that featured ice skating at 10 a.m. at the Coliseum and then at 2 p.m. took a 5-mile hike in SE Portland to Errol Heights. Feb. 2, Mr. and Mrs. E. T. Valliant led a hike from Mulnomah along the highway to Mount Sylvanus. Tea at Sunset Lodge ended the day.


EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS

Exciting Travel Adventures!

Our evening travel programs get underway at 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The programs are free and open to the Mazamas and general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: John Leary (Chair), Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary, and Nancy Bentley.

Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland: Feb. 3 Join outing leader Eric Hoem and experience the hiking trails, climb route, and trekking path that members of his Mazama outing followed in the fjordlands of western Norway. They hiked trails to coastal headlands and the top of the 3,000 foot vertical cliff face called the Troll Wall. Others in the group climbed a rocky, steep peak named Bispen (The Bishop) for dramatic views of the fjords and the Romsdal mountains. To cap off the experience, members made a three-night hut-to-hut trek across a high plateau in wintry conditions. On rest days, they visited a fisheries museum, a hydroelectric plant build inside a mountain, and an active heritage farm where they participated in a community celebration. In all, they experienced the Norwegian belief in “friluftsliv,” the importance of life in the open air.

History of the Mt. Hood National Forest and its Lookouts: Feb. 10

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The Mt. Hood National Forest is an outdoor playground for millions of hikers, skiers, climbers, and other recreationists, but it also has a long and fascinating history. Local author Cheryl Hill will highlight several interesting stories from the forest’s past and talk about the history of its lookouts. She will also talk about her favorite lookout hikes and give you a few tips for staying in a lookout cabin. Cheryl is a librarian, lookout enthusiast, and history buff, and is the author of two books in Arcadia Publishing’s “Images of America” series: Mount Hood National Forest and the forthcoming Fire Lookouts of Oregon.

Safari through Southern Africa: An Exploration of Namibia, Botswana & Zambia: Feb. 17

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Southern Africa hosts some of the world’s most unique places, for example, the Skeleton Coast and Namib Desert of Namibia, the Okavango Delta of Botswana, Victoria Falls of Zambia/Zimbabwe and the Cape Town region. Join Erica Varga of Acappella Safaris for an exploration of southern Africa. Key features and areas of South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia will be highlighted as well as best ways to combine travel among those countries.

Behind the Emerald Curtain, Feb. 24 “Behind the Emerald Curtain” is the latest documentary produced by Pacific Rivers, and created by Shane Anderson. The film examines logging practices in Oregon-especially the hidden impacts of industrial style clear cutting, road building, and pesticide application, all of which are largely hidden behind propaganda and beauty strips. We will screen the video and then have a conversation with Kalei Augustine and other staff and guests from Pacific Rivers. This promises to be an eye-opening look at forestry in Oregon. See the preview: http://pacificrivers. org/#emeraldvideo

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Mark Your Calendars: The Italian Dolomites: March 2 Get a preview here: mountainhikingholidays.com/slideshows/dolomites/dolomites_ show.htm

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MAZAMA LODGE

Your Home on the Mountain WINTER FAMILY FESTIVAL: MARCH 12 FROM NOON–8 P.M.

Event registration begins at noon (registration is free) and we will have our outdoor rootbeer garden and hamburger and gardenburger grill open from noon–1:30 p.m. Event Activities include: ▶▶ Birkebeiner Race ▶▶ Snow Sculpture ▶▶ Folk Dancing ▶▶ … and so much more! Mark Seker will act as the festival director for the second year in a row, and his twin boys, Koh and Abe, will be joining him in his duties. For questions regarding the event, contact Mark directly at markseker@gmail.com. THE BAVARIAN BANQUET BEGINS AT 5 P.M. AND WILL INCLUDE: ▶▶ Fondue (apples and bread) ▶▶ German sausage or swiss vegan mushrooms

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▶▶ Austrian pretzels ▶▶ German cabbage ▶▶ Flaming Mt. Hood cake ▶▶ Cost: $13.25 adults/$7 kids.

Festival directorMark Seker and twins Abe and Koh.

PRESIDENTS’ DAY WEEKEND

Mazama Lodge will be open all day on Presidents’ Day closing on Tuesday, February 16, at noon.

LOCKER RENTAL

As a gentle reminder: if you have not paid your annual locker rental fee, $25 per year, your rental fee is now past due. We will be cleaning out lockers in the next couple of months in preparation for the used equipment sale. Payment can be made by calling the lodge directly at 503-272-9214.


Hiking on the Dry Side By Carolyn Eckel

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o you ever get tired of all those green trees—pines, Douglas firs, big leaf maples—when you hike? Just once, don’t you wish you could hike and look out over the landscape to the horizon? Well, you can do this on the dry side—east of the Cascades. As you walk along, your view will be of sagebrush, grasses, juniper, and in some locations, mountain mahogany and quaking aspen. Hiking in the high desert is different in several ways. Just as you never wear cotton on winter hikes in the Gorge and around Mt. Hood, there are certain must-be-obeyed rules for desert hiking safety. Always take and drink lots of water, maybe even three quarts for a hike. (And keep a few gallons in your car. It will keep you from getting thirsty if your car breaks down and you have to wait for the tow truck.) Always wear a hat. Always wear sunscreen. In the high desert you are always at least at 4,000 feet of evaluation, and it is really, really dry. Plus, in the summer, it’s extremely hot. What this means is that the extra water, hat, and sunscreen are critical to a successful hiking experience. You can’t expect to find frequent streams or maybe any. If you do find water, you may also find a cow that has made a deposit in it, so you won’t want to use the water anyway. If you want to avoid sunburn, consider wearing long pants and a long sleeve shirt over a T-shirt, all of which I view as standard high desert hiking gear. Another difference is how you travel. Once you get beyond the Madras-RedmondBend area, it’s best to get gas for your car before 5:00 p.m. to be on the safe side. In places such as Fields and Frenchglen, you won’t find open gas stations in the evening. Also, you’ll find that once you cross into the high desert, your car becomes a “rig” regardless of what kind of vehicle you’re driving. It helps if your “rig” has high clearance since some roads are gravel and others are just plain dirt. Consider taking tire chains to use in case you get stuck on a dirt road that hasn’t totally dried out from

the last rain. Yes, it does occasionally rain out there. Cows are one hazard in particular you are highly unlikely to find in the Gorge/Mt. Hood area. Be very careful driving around cows because if you hit one, you will have to pay its cost and that of the calf it would have had. You may also find yourself in the middle of a cattle drive. Ranchers use the highways to drive the cattle from one place to another. So if this happens to you, just stop your rig on the road and wait until the wranglers move the beasts beyond you. (Out there the term is wrangler, not cowboy.) While you’re waiting and watching the cattle flow around your rig on either side, you can take pictures of the cows and wranglers. Consider it a part of the charm of the Wild West. By the way, if you encounter a herd of cows while hiking, remember not to get between the bull and his harem. You don’t want him to view you as a threat or a rival for their bovine affections. Camping can be different too. Since it’s a lot less likely to rain, you can safely forgo setting up your tent and just put your sleeping bag on a ground cloth/tarp. And then fall asleep as you’re looking up at the stars--of which there are tons more than you’re used to seeing in Portland. But keep in mind that even though it’s super hot during the day, it can get very cold at night so bring an adequate sleeping bag and warm sleepwear. You’re used to hiking on maintained trails in the Gorge/Mt. Hood area unless you’re a devotee of bushwhacking. Because the desert landscape is fragile, it is best to avoid using or making trails. It is better to spread the group out and do what is called “corridor involving” hiking. This applies mostly to the areas the further east you go. There are many places with traditional trails in Central Oregon which are fine to use such as the ones featured

in William Sullivan’s 100 Hikes/Travel Guide: Eastern Oregon. You can get good maps for the southeast section of the state from the Desert Trail Association at www. thedeserttrail.org, but they will require the use of a compass. (The Mazamas were involved, along with other desert advocates, in the formation of the Desert Trail Association in the early 1970s during a backpacking trip on Steens Mountain.) You should also know a few things about the fauna out there. Scorpions hang out under rocks. So when you see a pretty rock and want to pick it up, it might not be such a good idea. Take the same precautions against ticks that you would on this side of the Cascades. If a snake has a pattern on its back, consider that it might be a rattlesnake and give it a wide berth, or wait until it

While you’re waiting and watching the cattle flow around your rig on either side, you can take pictures of the cows and wranglers. Consider it a part of the charm of the Wild West.

slithers away. If there is no pattern, just step over it. Be cautious in rocky areas— rattlesnakes like to lounge there. Behave towards cougars the same way you would in the Gorge. And don’t worry about the antelope, bighorn sheep, magpies, egrets, or burros. I’ve never heard of them attacking anyone. One last somewhat delicate issue, don’t bury used toilet tissue. Due to the dry climate, it could take 100 years for it to decompose. Burn it or put it in a ziplock plastic bag to pack out. Ok, now you know the lingo—rig, corridor hiking, wrangler—and you’ve got the equipment—hat, sunscreen, and ziplock bag—you’re ready to enjoy hiking in the high desert. Don’t forget the water—lots of water. FEBRUARY 2016

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The

NORDWAND by Jeff Welter

T

he winter climbing season arrived in November, courtesy of El Niño. Storm systems moved through the Pacific Northwest almost continuously November into December, delivering significant snow and cold at high altitudes. There were climb days to be had between storms, and on at least one of those days the path from Mt. Hood’s Hogback to the summit was well-beaten up the Old Chute through the Pearly Gates. The opposite side of the mountain is also available to climb, the north side, or Nordwand, for those seeking distance from the crowds and a greater challenge. There is a mystique to Mt. Hood’s North Face that penetrates the minds and conversations of climbers as their skills progress beyond the south side routes. Past climbing accidents, complexity of terrain and the shear remoteness of the north side in winter all fuel this

the available frozen snow and ice, and the lack of rockfall. From the winter access point at Cooper Spur trailhead (3,800 feet), a climb to the summit is a full 7,400-foot elevation gain. The face has two prominent routes, gullies that lie side by side that are similar yet slightly different in character. The West Gully is big brother of the two and seems to be more popular, likely due to an attractive nearvertical 25-foot water ice pitch two-thirds up the route. The East Gully includes a 25-foot water ice pitch at its base but thereafter is largely sustained mid-angle climbing. Other routes up the face do exist but are much less frequently climbed. The gullies and the general face are distinguished by slope angle, sustained 2,000-foot elevation gain and surface conditions. Lower sections range near 40~45 degrees while the upper face is predominantly 45~50, then some steeper areas where rock bands and ribs are crossed. Water ice sections that form in the gullies are rated

Lower sections range near 40~45 degrees while the upper face is predominantly 45~50, then some steeper areas where rock bands and ribs are crossed. aura. Its reputation has dissuaded some climbers from ever planning a north side ascent, while others have designated it a high priority for the tick list. Still others, thinking objectively, view routes up the face as valuable training terrain. Successfully ascending the North Face can be a rite of passage that brings a sense of accomplishment (and perhaps relief). The routes are all physically demanding and require developed climbing skill and ability. The face is usually climbed in winter and spring for

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WI2~3. The face is largely melted out by late autumn leaving early winter conditions predominantly thin and frozen. Winter conditions range from low density snow to frozen alpine ice depending on snow metamorphism after recent storms. The face is difficult, if not impossible, to protect properly throughout much of the climbing season, due to the absence of water ice for ice screws and pencilhardness snow for pickets. Roped teams not using protection and those putting faith in inadequate protection are at significant risk if one climber should slip: the so-called “death pact”. Ascending sustained steep frozen terrain while fatigued can be done safely but does require skillful management of lactic acid level and tool/crampon placement. Ascending through loose snow sections requires confidence and an awareness of balance and security of each hand/foot position. There is no relief from the mountain position for many hours, making mental endurance as important to the climber as skill and equipment. I climbed the West Gully with friends last year and we were interested in climbing the East Gully this season. The early El Niño snow and cold allowed for a safe ascent of the face, and two climbers ascended


Climber finishing Mt. Hood’s North Face East Gully route. Inset: Mt. Hood’s North Face. Photos: Jeff Welter

on November 22, posting a report that assisted our team planning. They climbed only two days after a storm delivered several feet of snow; this was too soon for our required margin of safety but a testament of surface stability. The week following their climb brought minimal new snowfall and consistently cold temperatures to further stabilize the snowpack, allowing our trip planning to focus on logistics and avoid uncertainty about snowpack stability. Winter climbing is for some equivalent to avalanche season climbing, however my winter climbing experience has been most positive and without mishap. Snow science, knowledge of metamorphism and experience can give confidence in the snowpack “beyond a reasonable doubt”. That is perhaps the inverse of and more conservative than merely determining low avalanche danger. The weather forecast for Sunday, Nov. 29 showed low wind and no precipitation expected through Monday, giving us reliable climb conditions plus a safety factor if needed. We arrived at Timberline 3:00 a.m. Sunday morning to drop a shuttle car for our planned South Side descent. An hour later we were hiking up Cooper Spur trail in 15°F temperature. The prior week’s social media chatter prepared us for possible competition for the route so our backup plan was climbing the frozen seeps beneath Cooper Spur Ridge. The prominent bergschrund at the route’s base was described in the prior week’s trip report as painstaking to cross so we settled on gaining the face sooner and lower, then traversing over and dropping down into the East Gully, thereby bypassing the berg. Our strategy of approaching somewhat

late in the morning and crossing the face had the added benefit of viewing and not conflicting with a potential team in the East Gully. We thought it unlikely there would be more than two other teams on the face—West Gully, East Gully, and us. To our pleasant surprise we passed only one solo climber heading for Cooper Spur, otherwise no one else on the mountain’s north side. We started late, expecting to summit in 10 to 12 hours, with a possible descent after sunset; if things went totally sideways we would finish ascending in the dark. Once on the face it became clear that traversing directly to the East Gully would add time and expend additional energy so we climbed directly upward toward the Gully’s “lower step,” a short steep passage through a rock band. Near the lower step and Gully’s edge it became clear that entry would require an hour’s rappel, so instead we climbed straight up through the rock band hoping for an easier entry. At 10,800’ we exited the band and entered the Gully proper, then continued to the summit. Surface conditions ranged from loose dry surface snow to hardpack snow to progressed alpine ice. The loose snow on the lower face was a continuous aggravation causing lost traction and consuming our energy reserve. The upside was that minimal calf work was needed through each leg movement and rests could be on a flat foot. The upper section was largely frozen and solid requiring

sustained travel on crampon front points and ice tool picks. The double-edged sword of steep alpine ice travel is that while ice tool picks and crampon front points are fully secure in a plastic medium, there is no relief from the slope angle. A significant hazard of sustained travel on that terrain is managing muscle fatigue; one must avoid the inclination to attempt rest on a lessthan-secure sideways foot placement. Holding one’s adze ice tool with the strong hand is most important so that a minor ledge can be chopped at intervals (this is why you carry one) for resting the foot on a quasi-platform. There were small areas of thin water ice that could be avoided— water ice being much more fickle, less secure, and a threat to our free-solo climbing style. The last 20 meters beneath the summit was surprisingly steep and frozen, a grand finale for which skill at water ice climbing was appreciated. The perfect climax to a North Face ascent is popping up from those last steep 20 meters directly onto the summit platform and surprising the climbers already standing there. Peering back down the route after completing this rite of passage is absolutely exhilarating. The mystique of the North Face is a result of its position, character and history, but it should not be viewed as forbidding territory. Climbing the Nordwand is a worthy goal to pursue—a purpose for acquiring the necessary climbing skills, physical endurance, and mental sturdiness. The North Face is a true gem for those seeking greater satisfaction, challenge, and solitude in climbing.

FEBRUARY 2016

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FAMILIES

Adventure WILD Camp 2016 in partnership with Mazamas and Friends of Outdooor School by Jenny Dempsey Stein Since 2013 the Mazamas has partnered with Friends of Outdoor School to host the Adventure WILD Summer Day Camp. This day camp was originally conceived in 2011 to raise awareness and funds to support local outdoor school programs and was modeled off nature and inquiry-based outdoor school activities. Many outdoor school instructors have joined this summer program to work with youth. As an ecopsychology graduate student and Mazama Families participant, I was recruited by the Mazamas to evaluate past camp programs and to research best practices of active summer camps, both national and international. I interviewed people at several high profile camps, including Seattle Mountaineers, Missoula Outdoor Learning Environments (MOLA) in Montana, Climb Acadia in Maine and Avid for Adventure in Colorado and California. Based on these findings, I developed a five-year plan for the Adventure WILD Camp and presented this

plan to the Mazama Executive Council and Friends of Outdoor School board in December 2015. In 2016 Adventure WILD will offer summer day programs for ages 4 to 10, with an overnight pilot program at the Mazama Lodge during one of the weeks. This expanded program includes several day trips to alpine and other natural ecosystems in the metro area. Each themed, cross-disciplinary week consists of a variety of outdoor activities, and science and survival lessons. Eventually, the program will expand to offer camp and leadership training opportunities to youth ages 11 to 16. Supporting outdoor activities for youth is an important component of the Mazama Strategic Plan, and Adventure WILD is an integral program that provides access to diverse youth across an age, socioeconomic, cultural, and experience continuum. We are working to secure grants and partnerships that will provide scholarships to many participants, to make this camp more inclusive. Many readers have enjoyed the positive benefits of being in nature and challenging themselves through their outdoor adventures. The perks of experiencing greenspaces and wild

places include attention restoration, personal rejuvenation, stress relief, and psychological improvements. Recent studies even point to enhanced vision, development of empathy, and improved facial communication recognition in youth growing up in our digital age. There are also positive social learning aspects of mixed-age groups of children experiencing supervised but unstructured play in natural settings, so this style of learning is included in the newly designed camp. Fort building, creek exploration, and hiking are some of the planned activities. The Adventure WILD camp, with a base camp at MMC, is a great opportunity for Mazama Families to continue the outdoor learning they have participated in throughout the school year. Please look for upcoming registration information including Mazama member and early bird discounts! There will also be volunteer opportunities to help with the climbing wall and as parent chaperones. Mazama members can also help spread the word, by telling their friends and associates about the Adventure WILD Camp.

Want to get involved with Mazama Families Activities? Go to: mazamafamilies.org

Sunny Freeman

503.684.9698

sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor 14

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OUTINGS

Adventure Travel— Foreign & Domestic NORTH TO ALASKA March 5–12

This outing travels to Talkeetna, Alaska, and uses a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. The trip this year overlaps with the start of the Iditarod and the plan is to attend the restart of the Iditarod in Willow on March 6. Get full details in the January Bulletin and online. A deposit of $600 covers Talkeetna housing, ground transportation during the outing, half of food costs and the outing fee. Participants are responsible for airfare, Anchorage housing, all restaurant meals, equipment rentals, and extra activities. Signup deadline Feb. 1, 2016. Individuals interested in joining the outing need to contact Tom Bennett at nordlystom@gmail.com. Please let Tom know why you want to attend and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.

CRATER LAKE OUTING August 13-20

The Mazamas played a very important role in establishing Crater Lake as Oregon’s only national park in 1902. Led by Richard Getgen and Robert Smith, you will day hike for six days (Sunday–Friday). There will be two hikes offered each day (a combination of A and B-level hikes) in the national park and/or adjacent wilderness areas: Umpqua-Rogue Divide, Sky Lakes and Mt. Thielsen. Our camp will be at Diamond Lake Resort, a short distance north of the national park entrance. Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers tent sites, RV sites and a motor lodge. Cost: $160 members/$230 nonmembers. There will be a pre-outing meeting in early summer to meet group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register for this fun and scenic hiking opportunity.

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc. org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.” FEBRUARY 2016

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AYM: ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS AYM has a busy month ahead! See our page on the Mazama website for the most detailed, up-to-date information, including AYM Climb Nights at Planet Granite, hikes, and AYM Winter Weekend. Hikes are continually being posted to our website and Meetup page. We hope to see you out there!

TABLE MOUNTAIN TRIP REPORT Mike Kacmar On the day of the Portland Alpine Festival’s Summit, we had our own summit in mind— Table Mountain. This hike was co-led with my great friend, Anna Revolinsky. The two weeks leading up to the hike were dark, cold and rainy; however, on this day we are treated to a clear skies, albeit with very cold and windy! On our ascent, we reach then hike up Heartbreak Ridge, a half mile stretch with 700 feet elevation gain via a fury of torturous switchbacks. From here, viewing the Table’s face, we feel the power of the mountain’s exposure as deep gusts of wind threatened our summit goal and West Ridge descent. We are only about a half-mile short of the infamous talus slope, but know we are currently well-protected from the wind, so why not continue? We arrive at the talus slope to nonthreating winds; we ascend, slow and steady, and the talus is easily cleared! We now venture into the forest again for the remaining few hundred feet of elevation and the snow makes its presence known; slushy but stable footsteps with powdered sugar evergreens and dead icy branches illuminated by the glaring sun. The dawn of winter is on full display. The summit views are deep and plentiful to the 22 eyes that gaze from it this afternoon—Mts. St. Helens, Rainier, Adams, and Hood are all clearly visible. Eating lunch and wandering on the Table’s summit loop felt fantastical and easily confirm why Anna and I lead with AYM—to share and appreciate the beautiful Pacific wonderland, to inspire others to hike more, to share life more, to feel more grounded or connected to the earth, and to inspire others to lead with the Mazamas. This special day will never be forgotten.

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HIKE LEADER PROFILE: REENA KLEMENTS Reena is a new AYM hike leader. Look for her hikes on the schedule this winter and spring! ▶▶ Where is your hometown? Edison, NJ, but I like to pretend I’m from Boston, which is where I went to college. ▶▶ How many years have you been a Mazama? Almost one! My first involvement was the 2015 Nesika trip. I couldn’t leave such a high energy, wonderful group without the great desire to go climb a mountain as soon as possible! ▶▶ What’s your favorite trip that you led with AYM? I really enjoined the joint Tamanawas Falls and apple-picking activity last fall. I had always wanted to go apple picking in Hood River and it was a great way to do a hike plus another outdoor activity in one excursion with a new group of friends! We ended up at a longtime family owned orchard and it was great to learn about their history. ▶▶ What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials? My Foot Rubz Massage Ball and a racquetball. I’ve found that these are essential for easing stress in tired feet and sore muscles after a long and/or high elevation gain hike. ▶▶ What is your favorite leader treat? Barbara’s Cheese Puffs ▶▶ When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? I wanted to be a writer because I loved experiencing new worlds through books and wanted to create that experience for others. ▶▶ What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don’t usually know? I love to sew, and my boredom results in really strange things happening. I once handmade a 7-foot long plush squid. I named him Sydney. ▶▶ People should sign up for a trip with you if … They are looking to explore a fun new area is probably the main one! While the popular hikes are popular for a reason, I really like to go to new places that not everyone has necessarily heard of. ▶▶ What is your favorite restaurant in Portland? There are too many to pick from! I have a huge spreadsheet of places to eat that I would recommend, including restaurants, sweeteries, coffee/tea places, and a list of places that I would like to try. In total there are 150+ places on all the lists, and I’m always looking for suggestions for new places or feedback on what I have. Talk to me about food!


CLASSIC MAZAMAS For members with 25 years or more of membership or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. ( formerly known as Old Timers) CONTACTING THE CLASSICS Email Chair Rose Marie Gilbert at 503-762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@centurylink. net, or Executive Council liaison Kate Evans at 503-6356540, kateevans97@gmail.com, or classics@mazamas.org. LEADING EVENTS IN MARCH If you are interested in leading an event next month, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert by Feb. 12 for inclusion in the upcoming Bulletin.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our new transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@ comcast.net or 503-658-5710. FUNDRAISER FOR THE CLASSICS Do you have still usable hiking or climbing equipment or clothing you’d like to donate to benefit the Classics? Consider donating items to the Used Equipment Sale on March 25. BUFFET LUNCH PROGRAM Many Classics have asked to have the very popular, successful buffet lunch program restarted. Dick

Miller and Marty Hanson have researched west and east side locations, and Dick is hosting the first event March 24th. Thanks, Dick and Marty! FEB. 23 SNOWSHOE: TWIN LAKES The trail around the lakes from the lot is approximately 6 miles with about 500 ft. of elevation gain between Upper and Lower Twin Lakes. The leader will bring a stove to heat water for anyone who would like to make soup, coffee or tea for lunch (you bring the water). Meet in the Frog Lake SnoPark parking lot at 9:30 a.m.; a SnoPark permit is required for the lot. Interested persons email: David.R.Christopher@ gmail.com. FEB. 29 CLASSICS MEETING Are you interested in becoming more involved with the Classics? We would appreciate your energy,

enthusiasm, and assistance. We’ll be discussing winter events at 11 a.m. in room 3 at the MMC. MARCH 24 WELCOME-TO-SPRING LUNCH Welcome-to-Spring Lunch at 1:30 p.m. on Thursday, March 24 at the Buffet Palace two blocks from the MAX Beaverton Central Station. Buffet price is $7.25 for seniors for all the Chinese cuisine you care to eat. See the March Bulletin for more details. JULY 2 DICK AND JANE MILLER’S “FOURTH” OF JULY PICNIC POTLUCK : Save the DATE! AUG. 27–SEPT. 2 CLASSIC HIKERS GETAWAY LONG BEACH PENINSULA For details see p. 23 in the Jan. Bulletin or contact leader Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@ pacifier.com.

New requirements for youth on all Mazama activities by Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager The Mazamas are developing more activities to engage kids in the love and wonder of the outdoors. As such, we have new requirements from our insurance agency, geared toward keeping kids safe in our programs and in the field. These requirements necessitate that all volunteers who lead youth (in programs, classes, or activities) are required to 1) pass a background check; and 2) read and agree to a set of policies for working with youth at the Mazamas. Most of the kids we support are engaging in either our Mazama Families or our Youth Outreach programs. Volunteers who sign up to help with either of those programs are automatically contacted to complete the above steps. For all of you who volunteer to lead classes and activities through our regular programming, this means that if you should accept a minor on a future activity, you must email Kati Mayfield (kati@mazamas.org) as soon as you accept that individual so that we can get the process started for you.

To ensure that we have enough time to complete these steps, all minor applicants to climbs should be accepted at least 10 days in advance unless the leader and assistant have already been screened. And we are now requiring that all minors RSVP to the leader at least ten days in advance of hikes they are interested in attending. If you have any questions about these new requirements and how they might impact your activities, or if you’d like to inquire about preemptively completing the background check, please email Kati.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com. FEBRUARY 2016

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We Climb High & Protect Public Lands by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager Public lands are extremely important to Mazamas for many reasons and our mission as a nonprofit organization reflects that fact. We teach the art of mountaineering and all of its disciplines such as rock and ice climbing on public lands. We also believe in protecting the future of these special places starting with the mountain environment but extending into the forests, rivers, streams and canyonlands. So when we see a threat to our public lands like the one unfolding in Harney County at the Malheur Wildlife Refuge, what should we do? I believe the appropriate response is to get involved and be part of the democratic process. Taking government property hostage is not part of that civic duty. Mazamas can get involved in many ways: Stewardship is a key part of protecting our public lands, and one of the easiest ways to do so. Join a trail tending or climber steward work party. Visit our partners’

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Climbers on the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart. Photo: Vaqas Malik

websites, such as Oregon Natural Desert Association, and learn about restoration efforts in the high desert. Or keep it local and dig into Forest Park with some much needed trail work. There are many ways to make life better and more sustainable public lands. Another way you can get involved is by joining in the larger debate: attend rallies, events, and mettings that focus on public lands issues the Mazamas are passionate about. Our Conservation Committee meets every month and discusses public lands issues that impact our members and our activities. We also host events that support our public lands such as the Feb. 23 film screening, The Emerald Curtain­—a story

about the negative impacts of clear cutting our forests in Oregon. Finally, schedule a meeting with your elected official. Get some face time with Senator Wyden and his staff. Or make it easier by picking up the phone to let elected officials know how you feel about our public lands. We all have a right to enjoy and use our national conservation heritage, the wilderness and all its connected lands.

WHAT ARE SOME WAYS THAT MAZAMAS CAN PROTECT OUR PUBLIC LANDS? ▶▶ Get involved in Mazamas Trail Tending, Climbing Stewardship and Tree Planting ▶▶ Join our Conservation Committee ▶▶ Support the Access Fund and American Alpine Club’s efforts to protect climbing areas ▶▶ Tell your members of Congress and Oregon State Legislature that public lands are for everyone and future generations ▶▶ Support our land managers in creative problem solving of access and protection ▶▶ Practice responsible recreation and Leave No Trace ethics


Order Your Mazama Annual Today! Only 500 Mazama Annuals will be printed for 2015. Make sure to get yours by ordering today. The Mazama Annual is the Mazamas yearly publication. The 2015 edition will include bestof articles from the past year, new articles, color photographs, research and expedition reports, and administrative reports. This 80-page book is $5 and available for order (after Feb. 5 the Annual will be $10 will supplies last). If you prefer to read the Annual online you don’t need to do anything now—you’ll be able to find it at issuu. com/mazamas in March 2016. Orders will be mailed in March 2016. Order now! tinyurl.com/MazAnnual2015

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TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to everyone. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

WEBSITE UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas. org/activities-events/hikeschedule/ for updates!

HK B2 Feb 03 (Wed) Wauna Point (W). Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Classic gorge hike - Great view of area around Bonneville Dam. Traction required 10.4 mi., 3,200 ft., Drive 70, MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Feb 06 (Sat) Herman Creek Pinnacles. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Nice easy hike on the Herman Creek and Pacific Crest Trails to the Pinnacles. 6 mi., 950 ft., Drive 78, Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Feb 06 (Sat) WahkeenaAngels Rest. Dan Smith 503-4088923. This is close in and a great short hike. You can see waterfalls and the start of the Wahkeena springs. Then on to Angels Rest for great views of the Gorge. Bring your camera. 6.4 mi., 1,800 ft. ft., Drive 45, Gateway 8 a.m. SS B Feb 06 (Sat) Tilly Jane. Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@ juno.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. A Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2

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MAZAMAS

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING

Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/aym/

classic snowshoe up to the A-frame, and a bit of exploring beyond if weather permits. Check with leader about conditions before trip. 6 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 78, SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2.5 Feb 07 (Sun) Lacamas and Round Lakes. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. This hike uses a shuttle. Hike the Lacamas Lake Heritage Trail to Round Lake at a moderate 2.5-3 mph pace, and then explore the trails and falls at Round Lake at a slower pace. Email leader if you wish to meet us at the Heritage TH. 7 mi., 600 ft., Drive 30, Gateway 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 07 (Sun) Coyote Wall and The Labyrinth. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. My 5th Annual Super Bowl Sunday hike. Up on the top of the cliffs then down through the Labyrinth. We’ll be done early and back in time for the game. Poles and traction devices recommended. 8.2 mi., 1,500 ft., = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

Wilderness—Limit 12 indicates that the hike enters a Forest Servicedesignated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

Drive 126, Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Feb 07 (Sun) Table Mountain (West Ridge). Regis Krug 503-704-6442/regis_krug@mentor. com. Great winter conditioning hike. We’ll begin at the Bonneville Hot Springs and make our way up the trail to an old road, eventually connecting with the PCT and the West Ridge Trail. After summiting, we’ll come down Heartbreak Ridge. Be prepared for rain, snow, and ice. 9 mi., 3,450 ft., Drive 84, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Feb 10 (Wed) Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) (W). Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Gentle climb up Herman Creek canyon. Plan on lots of stream crossing and hugging some huge cedar trees at our destination. Traction devices, poles, and boots recommended. 14.6 mi., 2,640 ft., Drive 78, TH, MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Feb 13 (Sat) Catherine at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft– Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol

STREET RAMBLES

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. Creek–East. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Exploratory. Classic eastern gorge hike. Come prepared for any kind of weather 7 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 126, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Feb 13 (Sat) Cape Lookout. Gary Bishop gbish90@ hotmail.com. Pre-BCEP conditioning hike. A seascape filled hike from the state park to the viewpoint at the end of the cape. Be prepared for anything from driving rain to a perfect sunny day. (Sign up at Target/185th carpool only.) 10 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive 144, TH, Target/185th 8:30 a.m. SS B Feb 13 (Sat) Twin Lakes Loop Snowshoe. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will snowshoe from Frog Lake Snow Park, join the Pacific Crest Trail and head towards the lower Twin Lake and then on to the upper lake. Have lunch and depending on conditions and group desires we will either and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.


backtrack or continue on for the 8-mile loop around Bird Butte. Pace will be moderate. Expected hike time is 4-5 hrs. plus driving time. Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. 8 mi., 1,200 ft., Drive 110, SnoPark, Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Feb 14 (Sun) Tryon Creek Hike, Second Try. Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456. Valentine special. Enjoy a sweet winter walk with a short drive and late start. Walk a loop through a forested canyon tucked between Portland and Lake Oswego. On the far end of the loop walk along residential streets. In January this hike was canceled due to poor driving conditions. Sturdy shoes recommended. Dress for the weather, and bring water and snacks. 6.2 mi., 500 ft., Drive 0, Meet at the Nature Center in Tryon Creek State Pk. 10 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 17 (Wed) Cape Horn. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Cape Horn may be the most scenic hike in the Columbia River Gorge. Come and enjoy the cliffs, waterfalls, and Columbia River views. Wear sturdy hiking boots and bring hiking poles if you have them. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive 55, MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Feb 20 (Sat) Cherry Orchard. Flora Huber 503-6585710. Beautiful hike through the Lyle Cherry Orchard Nature Preserve. 5 mi., 1,100 ft., Drive 100, Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Feb 20 (Sat) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) (W). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Truly one of the most epic of gorge hikes. The trail, blasted out of solid rock along a roaring creek, has everything. 12.6 mi., 1,080 ft., Drive 74, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Feb 20 (Sat) Elk-Kings Traverse. Rick Craycraft 503-6792113 or leftfield5@juno.com. A balmy, pre-spring day? Torrential rain? Come and find out on this coast range hike re-scheduled from December. Steep in places and slippery when wet. Bring sturdy boots and raingear. Car shuttle. 8 mi., 3,400 ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 7:30 a.m. SS A Feb 20 (Sat) White River Canyon Moonlight Snowshoe. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail. com. We will head up White River Canyon approximately 2 miles to enjoy the moonlight. Easy to moderate pace. Bring poles,

extra warm clothes (no cotton), and headlamp (part of your 10 Essentials). Please contact leader via email if you plan to go. 4 mi., 600 ft., Drive 110, SnoPark, Clackamas Town Center Transit Center (Go up ramp on North end of parking structure, I will be on the left.) 6 p.m. HK B2 Feb 21 (Sun) Devils Rest (via Multnomah Falls). Regis Krug 503-704-6442/regis_krug@ mentor.com. Great hike up past multiple waterfalls on Multnomah Creek, the altar at Devils Rest, and several more waterfalls on Wahkeena Creek. This is a photofriendly hike, so bring your camera and tripod. 8 mi., 2,600 ft., Drive 50, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Feb 24 (Wed) Elk Mountain Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@ teleport.com. Up the very steep Elk Mountain trail and down along Elk Creek back to the cars. One of the classic coast range routes. The Elk Mountain trail is one of the trails maintained by the Mazamas. Traction devices required. 8.5 mi., 2,950 ft., Drive 60, MMC 8 a.m. SS A Feb 27 (Sat) Brandenburg Shelter Loop. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin. jess@gmail.com.From the Ray Benson Sno-Park we’ll travel over relatively flat terrain along the South Loop Trail. A short climb up and over a butte takes us to the Brandenburg ski shelter, where we’ll stop for lunch, then finish the loop. Views of Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Washington on a clear day. 6 mi., 300 ft., Drive 270 (mileage calculated from downtown Protland; hike leaves from trailhead at 9 a.m.), SnoPark, Parking lot at 2nd and B St. in Corvallis 8 a.m. HK A2 Feb 28 (Sun) Nestucca Spit and Cape Kiwanda. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com.. Enjoy winter at the Oregon coast! Expect high water, muddy trails, and any kind of weather. We’ll start with the loop trail at Bob Straub State Park, traversing sand and coastal forest along Nestucca Spit. Then we’ll drive a mile up the road to hike up the big sand dune at Cape Kiwanda. A stop at the Pelican Pub and Brewery is the perfect way to finish the day. 6.5 mi., 200 ft., Drive 200 (mileage calculated from downtown Protland; hike leaves from trailhead at 9 a.m.), Public parking lot at 2nd and B St, Corvallis 8 a.m.

WINTER CAMPING IN THE CLOUDS: MARCH 5–6 Want to step up your winter camping skills? Beginning at the Tilley Jane Trailhead, we will do a moderate 4 mile snowshoe hike up to the Tilly Jane Cabin and the historic Cloud Cap Inn, which was built in 1889. We’ll set up camp at the Cloud Cap Campground and once we’re settled in, you can relax in camp or explore the area. After a lazy breakfast on Sunday morning, we’ll snowshoe up to the stone shelter on the Timberline Trail, return and break camp, then snowshoe back down to the trailhead. About 3,000 feet of elevation gain and 10 miles overall. We’ll have a pre-trip meeting in late February to discuss gear and winter backcountry issues. Contact Regis Krug (regis_krug@mentor.com) for more information on this activity.

Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.

Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

FEBRUARY 2016

21


THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members.

Our plan going forward is that the agenda on even-numbered months will feature regular committee reports and operational topics (such as budget reforecasts and insurance), and the agenda for odd months will focus on the strategic plan and its consituent projets. Thus, the first council meeting of the new year focused on strategic projects. The strategic plan, which seeks to improve the Mazamas service model to be modern, relevant, and scalable, includes a series of priority projects. The first, Leadership Development, is making positive progress towards creating new programs under the guidance of the Outdoor Safety Institute’s analysis of Mazama programs, conducted last spring. Among other things, the team is looking at the leader types and different skill sets that are needed to most effectively run Mazama programs and schools. The Youth Outreach project’s Mazama Mountain Science School is now in session, with snow this year! Thanks in part to member and community partner support, the program continues to grow. Another success is the Library and Historical Collections, which is currently on track and meeting the goal points of its threeyear plan, with major emphasis right now on circulation management and developing better (digital) resource management (dRM) systems. The majority of the meeting, however, focused on two projects: Stewardship and Advocacy and Information Technology (IT). Federal legislators have communicated to the recreation community that they need user and interest groups to work together and collaborate. The Stewardship and Advocacy Project has recently completed analysis work and created a framework to help develop the Mazamas’ unique position to be this collaborative, pragmatic leader for the responsible use and protection of the mountain environment. The framework seeks to understand our impact and duty, then to educate, train, collaborate, and engage both Mazamas and

the larger conservation and outdoor recreation communities. This year, the ongoing work plan includes boots-on-the-ground stewardship programs, including doubling trail- and crag-tending events. External advocacy work—developing relationships with legislators, land managers, and key coalitions—will continue, as well as working with the Mazama volunteer base to best understand and respond to the issues that impact the Mazama mission and contingency. The IT project continues to move forward. The presentation focused in part on components of the future system in development, based on the findings of the needs assessment. As both council and the Mazamas Foundation board, which is paying for the project through the current strategic plan grant, have members who have real experience with similar projects, there is a high awareness of, and discussion around, the short and long term financial risks of IT infrastructure projects. The next steps are to hire a short-term contractor to manage the project through the build-out phase. In addition to hiring a projector manager, we are proceeding with contractor negotiations that will include options/ideas around phasing and scaling. Concurrent with the contractor negotiations, there will be a stakeholder meeting to confirm the feature-set that was determined during last year’s project discovery phase. While the majority of the meeting focused on the strategic projects, council also decided to revise the way it communicates with the membership. This includes making this article an ongoing monthly feature, changing the way that the listserv is used, and continuing the membercomment period, piloted this month. To read more on these topics, the formal minutes, and the complete reports, please visit the members’ section of the website here: http:// mazamas.org/members/executive-councilreports/ Next month’s meeting will focus on committee reports and financials.

Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM)

A Mazama committee providing support services including debrief sessions after traumatic experiences and near misses; as well as referrals to mental health services if you are experiencing adverse emotions. All correspondence and conversations with CISM are confidential. Info can be found on the Mazama website, (mazamas.org/resources/critical-incident-stress-management-cism/) or by contacting the Mazama office (503-227-2345).

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MAZAMAS

Welcome New Mazamas! Christina Allen—South Sister Troy Baker—Aconcagua Dana Beck—South Sister Daniel Bellers—Mt. Hood Alex Bertotto—Kilimanjaro Kerra Blakely—Mt. St. Helens April Bolstridge—South Sister Kyle Branderhorst—Mt. Adams Raven Cashen—South Sister Kimberley Craig—Mt. Shasta Joe Crook—Mt. St. Helens Mary Delloway—Mt. St. Helens Daniel Fuller—Breithorn Alex Gillette—South Sister Bryan Hall—Mt. Hood Nathan Herzog—Mt. St. Helens Greg Hughes—Mt. Adams Melinda Hugo—Middle Sister Sara Jensen—Mt. Adams Aaron Johnson—South Sister Laurel Johnson—Broken Top Eli Katz—South Sister Breanne Kearney—South Sister Evan Landman—Mt. Adams Rachel Lindsay—Mt. St. Helens Ian Maher—South Sister Merissa Moeller—South Sister Paul Munn—South Sister Kayla Murphy—South Sister Jim Nicolarsen—South Sister Erik Nordland—Mt. Shasta Edward Page—Mt. St. Helens Rainer Rothbacher—Schareck Adam Schoff—South Sister Callan Slifka—South Sister Carol Slifka—South Sister Austin Smith—South Sister Anthony Spohn—Mt. Rainier Orly Stampfer—Mt. Shasta Rob Strange—Huayna Potosi Malia Tam Sing—South Sister Jordan Tippitts—Mt. Adams Joel Turkheimer—Mt. St. Helens Amanda Virbitsky—Mt. Shasta Thomas Williams—Mt. Hood Anona Yang—Mt. Adams Andrew Young—Mt. St. Helens Deceased: Mary Lou Bailey (1971), Maria Dunlop (1940), Kate McCarthy (2002), Nancy Nash (1945), Barbara Podesta (1940)

Dec. 31 STATS

by Jamie Anderson, Mazamas Member Services Manager

47 New 13 Reinstated 5 Deceased Dropped (non-

431 payment of dues) 3,223 2015 3,045 2014


EDWARD CURTIS PRESENTATION

Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections Manager, will talk about the early history of the Mazamas and the photographer Edward Curtis as part of the Lake Oswego Reads program on Feb. 11 at 7 p.m. at the Lake Oswego City Hall. Edward Curtis was an honorary Mazama whose groundbreaking work, The North American Indian, documents over eighty Native American tribes. Edward and his brother, Asahel, photographed many early Mazama climbs. The Mazamas hold several original Curtis prints in the collection.

Donate Your Warm Clothing Last year, the Mazamas donated over 600 pounds of much appreciated warm winter clothing to Fish Emergency Services. You can help our Portland neighbors again this winter. Please look through your closets for: warm coats & jackets gloves, mittens, hats, and socks warm shirts & pants ... all that fleece clothing the Mazamas are famous for!

Donation boxes are in the lobby of the Mazama Mountaineering Center and at the Ramble sign-in spot at REI. Donations will be accepted through March. This program is part of the Mazama Trail Trips Committee—for more information contact Tom Davidson at Tedclimbs@gmail.com. FISH is located at SE 13th and Hawthorne and they serve residents from our Mazama neighborhood. For more information about FISH Emergency Services, please visit their web site: www.fishemergencyservice.org

Edward Curtis, William Ray, and Harvey Mitchell on Mt. Rainier, 1897. Photo: Edward Curtis.

Mazamas. Your adventure starts here.



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