Mazama Annual 2015

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Right: Alvaro Figuerola stops for an alpine dip near the 100th mile of the Tour du Mont Blanc. Lacs des ChĂŠserys, France. Photo: Paul Griffith. Far Right: Goats at Enchantment Lakes. Photo: John Leary. Below: Kendall Karch lead climbing on the Turnagain Arm in South Central Alaska. Photo: Andrew Holman. Cover: Drew Lesch-Wragge feeling the burn on an early season ascent of Mount St. Helens. Photo: Geoff LeschWragge.

mission

vision

The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety, and the protection of mountain environments.

Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains.


Mazama The Annual Journal of the Mazamas Vol. XCVII, No. 13 • December 2015

TABLE OF CONTENTS Feature Articles Avalanche on Everest, p. 3 Ecology & Conservation: The Cascade Red Fox, p. 6 Kilimanjaro: A Route Less Taken, p. 11 Mazamas in the Khumbu, p. 15 What Does it Take? The Building of the Khumbu Climbing Center Phortse, Nepal, p. 18 Mt. Cruiser Climb: A Rare Sighting, p. 22 Lost in the Gorge, p. 24 Mazama Library: A History, p. 27 No Picnic on Mt. Hood, p. 30 Rescue in the Gorge, p. 33 A Brief History: Youth Achievement at the Mazamas, p. 36 Quentin Carter, p. 39 Meeting Myself At the Summit, p. 40 Emotional Atrophy Amid the Revelations, p. 42

Reports President’s Report, p. 2 Outings Reports, p. 44 Committee Reports, p. 51 The Mazamas Foundation, p. 61 Executive Director’s Annual Report, p. 62 Treasurer’s Report, p. 63 Volunteer Manager’s Report, p. 64 Membership Report, p. 64 Mazama Honorary Member: Doug Wilson, p. 65 Parker Cup: John Godino, p. 66 Hardesty Cup: Tom Guyot, p. 66 Climbing & Hiking Awards, p. 65 Official Mazama Climbs, p. 68 Official Mazama Trail Trips, p. 70 In Memoriam, p. 76

© Mazamas® 2015. All rights reserved. • 527 SE 43rd, Portland, OR 97215

2014–2015 Executive Council Sojo Hendrix, President Judith Baker, Vice-president John Rettig, Secretary Steve Hooker, Treasurer Kate Evans Sunny Freeman Marty Hanson Amy Mendenhall Joan Zuber

Mazama Annual production Editor-in-Chief: Kristie Perry Co-Editors: Catherine Diaz, Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Lacy Turner Layout & Design: Sarah Bradham


President’s Report: Looking BAck, Looking Ahead by Sojo Hendrix

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ongratulations on another year of activity and accomplishment, Mazamas. And thank y­ ou so much for all of your efforts and countless volunteer hours to make our organization the best it can be. I also want to thank my fellow Executive Council members. It has been an honor to serve the organization with you as I complete my term. Judith Baker, Vice President, and Joan Zuber join President Sojo Hendrix. me in the completion of our three year terms. Continuing on council are Steve Hooker, Treasurer; John Rettig, Secretary; Kate Evans, Sunny Freeman, Marty Hanson, and Amy Mendenhall.

We are a busy bunch for sure. Whether it’s volunteers, committees, or staff at work; leaders out rambling, hiking, on outings, or climbing; coordinators running events; leaders teaching skills in our educational programs—the list goes on. I am sure that our founders could not have imagined the array of activities we would be engaged in now, much less the projects we are currently pursuing as we Expand, Enhance, and Explore. As we move ahead in the 21st Century, it will be as important to retain the traditions that have made us great and unique as it is to embrace new ways of doing things. With funding and plans in place, most of our nine strategic projects are well underway. This year was the first full year of activity on these approved projects. Each of the nine projects has one Executive Council member as its project sponsor. Executive Director Lee Davis reports on project status each month at our Executive Council meetings and you will hear more detail about them in his executive director’s report, as well as in some of the committee reports. At a high level I can report that as of September, five were on track based on deliverables due this year, three were experiencing some delays, and one has a significant delay. Some highlights from the on­-track projects include the completion of our technology discovery phase with OMBU consulting as part of the reinvent our information services project; the completion of the Outdoor Safety Institute’s engagement as part of the reinvent leader development project; the wildly successful youth camp at the Mazama Lodge, now called the Mazama Mountain Science School, as part of the develop youth outreach programs and related events project; and hiring Mathew Brock as our Historical Collections Archivist as part of the restore management of Historical Collections project. There are more details to come on all projects in subsequent reports. 2

One of the most important jobs of the Executive Council is managing our executive director. We have implemented a much more formal review process in support of this. There is a review team consisting of the president, treasurer, secretary, and one director at large. The schedule is now a mid-­year check-in review in April and a detailed annual review in September. The review team provides and solicits input based on Lee’s current year goals, drafts the review scorecard, executive summary, and supporting detail. Compensation data is compiled through review of similar nonprofits’ 990 forms and the purchase of an executive director competitive wage analysis every other year. We adopted an executive director salary range. The team works with Lee and council to craft SMART goals for the upcoming fiscal year. The process has worked well and is aligned with our budgeting cycle. Looking ahead to this year, the IT project will be center stage as we secure consultants for the development phase of the project. However, there are concerns regarding the budget for this phase that may necessitate some difficult choices. We will continue our good works in conservation and channel those works into our advocacy pipeline. The Portland Alpine Festival saw great success last year and will no doubt see the same this year behind another strong committee and phenomenal speaker lineup. There is much to be excited about, but as president, I offer some caution as well. I have written recently about the culture within Mazamas and the need for all of us to follow our organizational values of Safety, Education, Volunteerism, Community, Competence, Credibility, Stewardship, and Respect. I have witnessed some growing pains over the last year in particular. We are trying to do a lot of things at once. Sometimes conflicts ensue. Managing change includes obtaining stakeholder buy-­in and communicating early and often.

An example of significant change is the Annual Celebration metamorphosing into the Summit event at the Alpine Festival. While we continue to retain the traditional Mazama­-centric aspects within the Summit, those aspects will likely move to a separate event. Although the Alpine Festival strategic plan states in part that, “the Mazama Annual Celebration shall remain an integral part of the Portland Alpine Festival until the PAF committee can fully support separating and operating both events,” this provides an excellent opportunity to successfully and collaboratively manage a shift in tradition. With over three times the staff that we had just a few years ago, we also want our membership numbers to experience a healthy positive trajectory. Under the new organizational landscape, it is important that our executive director and Executive Council are in agreement regarding everyone’s roles and responsibilities regarding our operating structure. Our bylaws deem our standing committees as “essential in supporting the purpose of the Mazamas” and enumerate the mission of each. As a membership organization, the members are at the top of our structure and we all work to support them and the mission of Mazamas. The council review team had very positive conversations with Lee regarding this expectation during his review this year. I expect the new council to continue to work closely with Lee on setting the appropriate staff goals that will support the work of our committees and membership. We all want to see the Mazamas grow, improve, and succeed, whether it is in our strategic projects, our conservation and research efforts, our educational and activity offerings, our publications, or our vast library and historical collections. I am confident that all of us will work collaboratively to that end. Thank you and Onward!


Avalanche on Everest by Sarah Bradham

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t 11:56 a.m. on April 25, 2015, Mac McCullough had just completed the final obstacle of Everest’s Khumbu Icefall—a 400-foot-long block of ice, 60 feet tall and 70 feet wide, climbed by way of five vertical ladders tied together, followed by five to ten feet of steps cut into the ice. Reaching the top, he turned to see one of his teammates coming up behind him; his lead guide, Damien Benegas, was ahead. It was then that he saw an avalanche cut loose on the West Ridge. The ice beneath his feet was shaking. was likely no more than three minutes. It would turn out to be three minutes in which thousands of lives were lost, and countless other lives would be forever changed. Mac’s Alpine Ascents International (AAI) team had been the last team scheduled to make the trip through the icefall that Saturday morning. The final five members of his team were below when the powder cloud hit; one woman had just started climbing the ladder. By the time the ordeal was over, her hands were frozen from clinging to the metal ladder. The team regrouped and continued to Camp I. A heavy

Covering their mouths, they waited for impact; 30 seconds … one minute … two minutes—then it was over. From the first tremor to the dissipation of the powder cloud was likely no more than three minutes.

Clockwise, from lop left: Mac McCullough on the way to base camp. Photo: Jon Johnston.

“Earthquake!” shouted Damien. The team could see the powder cloud from the avalanche bearing down on them. The climbers on top of the block hastily clipped in to anchors and got as low as they could. Covering their mouths, they waited for impact; 30 seconds … one minute … two minutes—then it was over. From the first tremor to the dissipation of the powder cloud

snow had started to fall. At the edge of camp they were met by David Breashers, who rushed to assure them, “You are okay, you are safe here, you are out of the range of avalanches.” The chill was more than cold, and reality began to sink in; this was something big. Mac borrowed a satellite phone and got word to his sister that he was okay. The news at Camp I was that Everest Base Camp (EBC) had been hit hard, but that AAI’s people and facilities were unharmed. They rode out a night of heavy snow, still unaware of the devastating extent of the earthquake’s damage. There was a feeling of disbelief. Eric Murphy, a guide that Mac had climbed with the previous year when an avalanche killed 16 people in the icefall—up until now the deadliest day on Everest—looked

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Everest, continued from previous page at Mac and thought, Are we really going through this again? What are the odds? The next morning, Damien made his way down into the icefall to evaluate the condition of the route down. While in the icefall, a strong aftershock hit, further dislodging massive chunks of ice. Initially cutoff, Damien was eventually able to make his way back to Camp I. By midafternoon, it was clear that helicopters would be needed to make it back down to EBC. Starting early in the morning of April 27, the major evacuation from the upper camps began. Four helicopters shuttled almost 200 people, along with needed gear, down to EBC. The process was simple enough: Pick up at Camp I, slight liftoff, then “fall” down the Western Cwm, down through the icefall, and drop off the climbers at EBC. One trip took no more than 10 minutes. Flying in thin air, however, the choppers could only take two passengers at a time, so the evacuation required close to 100 trips. 4

Mac was on one of the first flights down. Descending from the chopper, he surveyed what was left of EBC. The middle of camp had been obliterated. There were scraps of tents, bent poles, climbing mitts with price tags still affixed, shoes, sleeping bags, clothing … debris everywhere. Gear had been thrown 300 yards from camp and onto the glacier. A Canon SLR camera was jammed into the snow, and there were rocks with guy lines attached to nothing but a tiny scrap of tent. It looked like a Midwest town after a tornado and a blizzard. Mac and the AAI team spent three more days in EBC. AAI had a fully functional and wellstocked camp, so it made little sense to move. The infrastructure

along the trekking route to Everest had been heavily damaged and, by staying put, they could help the teams whose camps had been destroyed and the trekkers trying to make their way down the valley. It wasn’t until the AAI team got word that the government was likely to conscript the helicopters for search and rescue work that the team began preparations to return to Kathmandu. Late in the day on April 30, Mac boarded another

helicopter, as the team was ferried down to Pheriche (three people per trip), and from Pheriche to Lukla (six people per trip). The following day Mac and his teammates were lucky enough to secure seats on a flight to Kathmandu. The city was already staggering back to its feet; some shops were open, people were beginning to sleep inside again, and the tent villages were receding. Those that had resources did what they could. One of


Mac’s teammates, Sara Safari, is a volunteer for Empower Nepali Girls, and was able to find out what the organization needed, hire a cab to drive to the outskirts of the city, and deliver blankets and other basic supplies. It felt like such a small thing to do, but the gratitude from those who had been affected was touching. Damien and his twin brother Willi run their own expedition company, Benegas Brothers, and are well-connected in Nepal. They immediately started work on the relief effort. In the lobby of the Yak and Yeti hotel, Mac watched as the brothers, along with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, one of the first Nepali women to summit K2, and Matt Moniz kicked their combined networks into high gear. Over the course of one very long day, they were able to evaluate the level of destruction in the Ghorkha Valley, assess the medical and supply needs and sources, and create a plan to hire local porters to deliver the supplies to this outlying region. Willi and Matt flew to Zurich two

days later to raise funds while Damian headed out to the Ghorkha Valley. On May 4, Mac started his journey home. Kathmandu, Dubai, Seattle, and finally Portland. Touching down was bittersweet. It felt good to be home, comfortable, safe‌ but he wondered, Should he have stayed? Could he have done more on the ground? Or would his energy be better spent supporting the organizations that already have relief infrastructure in place? The rebuilding effort in Nepal will take years. The early cost projection, before the second earthquake on May 8, was 10 billion dollars. While Kathmandu received much of the initial response and funds, getting to and supplying outlying areas remains a challenge. Some hard-hit villages were isolated by quake damage, further complicating relief efforts. It will be a long road from immediate disaster relief to long-term rebuilding, but, as Mac witnessed, both in the city of Kathmandu and in his hotel lobby, the will is there.

Clockwise, from lop left: Base camp on the day Mac’s team arrived. Photo: Mac McCullough. Debris in middle of base camp two days after the avalanche. Photo: John Oldring. Mac climbing the five-ladder section, less than five minutes before the earthquake. Photo: Jon Johnston. Base camp after the earthquake and avalanche, looking south toward where the avalanche passed through. Photo: Mac McCullough

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Ecology & Conservation The Cascade Red Fox

by Jocelyn Akins, Project Coordinator, Cascades Carnivore Project and Ph.D. Candidate, Mammalian Ecology and Conservation Laboratory, University of California, Davis The fox padded lightly through six inches of new snow in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, her nose leading the way to a cocktail of smells at the base of a mountain hemlock. She was so intent on the scented mixture of skunk, castor, and muskrat musk with undertones of chicken from the bait that she did not even hear the click of the camera that caught her image. Later, on a dark winter afternoon in front of my computer, I sat flipping through thousands of photos that revealed the elusive residents of the Mt. Adams Wilderness: a nervous snowshoe hare, a stealthy bobcat, a gamboling trio of Pacific martens. But then I saw a critter I knew nothing about: a Cascade red fox, a rare mountain subspecies of red fox. This photo shifted the focus of my newly formed conservation initiative targeting wolverines in southern Washington—the Cascades Carnivore Project—to one that focused on the population status, community interactions, and ecological role of this rare and little-known forest carnivore. Wildlife managers have only recently begun to appreciate the unique contributions the Cascade red fox makes to the fauna of the high Cascades. It is not, however, a simple story.

The Global Red Fox The red fox (Vulpes vulpes) has had a bum rap for as long as our civilization has been telling stories. Due to its omnivorous diet and innate curiosity, this small carnivore has been considered a trickster in folklore, and persecuted 6

as a pesky chicken killer, and a sly and devious predator. It is one of the most widespread carnivores on Earth and is considered an invasive pest in many areas. The species evolved in Africa or Eurasia from a now-extinct fox and is currently distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere from deserts to temperate rainforests to tundra. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists the red fox as a Species of Least Concern globally, i.e., one that is widespread and abundant. Before the advent of modern genetic techniques, subspecies divisions of red fox were based solely on geography and morphology, but the distinguishing features among all red fox are a white tipped tail, black tipped ears, and black stockinged feet. Coat color is highly variable. Although this historical subspecies classification scheme does not mesh perfectly with the genetic characteristics of these populations, there are three mountain and 11 lowland red fox subspecies, including a subspecies first described in 2010 that inhabits the Sacramento River valley. These 14 subspecies occupy a variety of habitats and coat colors from deep red to black and silver. Some of this

biodiversity has been threatened recently by a lack of conservation concern for these unique red foxes, which are distinct in many important ways from their abundant nonnative cousins inhabiting the lowlands. In North America this has resulted in conservationists largely ignoring potential population declines in this rare and little-studied mountain fox, and making little attempt to understand how their populations, which occur in an archipelago of high-elevation habitat “islands,” could be impacted by human activities, encroachment by potential competitors, and climate change. This begs the question: What factors could impact this animal, which is so far removed from people, and derived from a larger species considered well distributed and common?

Going Back to the Pleistocene Ice Ages (or Getting to know the Mountain Foxes) Red foxes have a unique evolutionary history in North America that was elucidated by United States Forest Service (USFS) biologist Dr. Keith Aubry and his colleagues in recent decades. The colonization of North America by red foxes


Paradise Valley Road female, October 9, 2011. Photo: Logan Volkmann

was shaped by two waves of migration from Eurasia. Half a million years ago, during the Illinoian Ice Age, red foxes first colonized North America from Asia over the Bering Land Bridge, which became established due to the lowering of sea level by the formation of continental glaciers. When the glaciers melted and the Bering Strait was reestablished, red foxes became isolated on separate continents. These foxes swept south and east across the boreal forest. Then, during our most recent glaciation (the Wisconsin Ice Age), the Bering Land Bridge formed again and a second wave of red foxes migrated to North America from Asia, which resulted in limited genetic exchange between the Eurasian and North American red foxes. During this last glaciation, the earlier fox migrants were pushed by the ice sheets into the vast, windswept plains and relatively low-elevation forests of the western and central United States, south of the ice. Here they presumably adapted to the colder, glacial climate, which lasted for the next 100,000 years. Once the ice sheets had receded, these foxes moved up into the mountains of the West where habitat conditions were similar to those they occupied during glacial times,

leaving the thawing plains of the American Midwest devoid of red foxes. This long separation from their ancestors in the Old World allowed time for their DNA, shaped by chance and environment, to diverge. North American red foxes have now been separated from Eurasian populations for 300,000 to 600,000 years, and are genetically different from other red foxes. University of California at Davis molecular ecologist Mark Statham and his colleagues recently suggested that all North American red foxes be reclassified as a distinct species, Vulpes fulva—the North American red fox. The descendants of those early Illinoian Ice Age migrants comprise the three mountain subspecies (V. v. cascadensis, necator, and macroura) that now inhabit the Cascade Range, the Sierra Nevada, and the Rocky Mountains, respectively (with the exception that red foxes in the Cascade Range of Oregon are now believed to belong to the Sierra Nevada subspecies). The valley bottoms are generally assumed to be inhabited by invader foxes that originated on the East Coast and were brought west for fur farming and hunting with hounds. The mountain foxes live at high

elevations year-round in relatively open forests and subalpine parkland. Mountain foxes are typically smaller in size and exhibit a greater variation in their coat colors than lowland red foxes. These are not just the red-coated foxes of fairytales and wildlife calendars; mountain foxes occur in coat colors ranging from straw yellow to red to black and silver. There is also a relatively common “cross� variant whose name is derived from the cross formed by a thin black stripe that extends over the shoulders and crosses one along the backbone. More importantly, the mountain foxes are ecologically unique, feeding exclusively on alpine and subalpine prey such as snowshoe hares, white-tailed jackrabbit, pocket gophers, voles, winter-killed mountain goats, ground-nesting birds, and high-elevation plants. Molded by two ice ages, they have become well adapted to the cold. They rarely occur in the western hemlock and silver fir forests that cover lower elevations of the Cascade Range. They do not leave their snowy abode during the harshest blizzards of winter nor interbreed with red foxes in the valleys. They are finely tuned for life at altitude.

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Red Fox, continued from previous page A Fox By Any Other Name Throughout the year, the Cascade red fox relies heavily upon high-elevation meadows and tree copses to forage for small mammal and lagomorph prey. The eastern slope of the Cascade Range contains relatively dry and open mountain hemlock, subalpine fir, and whitebark pine forests and krummholz copses, as well as ragged pinnacles of rock that support mountain goats, whose carcasses are an important source of food. Like most furbearers, the Cascade red fox has suffered significant declines in abundance and distribution as a result of trapping and poisoning over the last century. Despite the absence of these activities for many decades, Cascade red foxes appear to have experienced range losses recently, perhaps due to the shrinking of high-elevation parklands and meadows from climate change, the loss of subalpine conifers to drought, fire, and disease, or the expansion of coyotes (Canis latrans) into the high-elevation habitats that Cascade foxes rely on. Historical patterns of land use during the past 100 years, including timber harvest, recreational use, and road building, continue to influence habitat conditions at various spatial scales and affect the ability of native wildlife to survive and reproduce.

What’s in a Ph.D.? In founding the Cascades Carnivore Project, I am following in the footsteps of two inspiring scientists. Dr. Keith Aubry,

an emeritus scientist with the U.S. Forest Service’s Pacific Northwest Research Station, began the first field study of mountain foxes in 1978 (the year I was born) in Mt. Rainier National Park and the Crystal Mountain area in Washington. This study provided important baseline information about the evolutionary and distributional history of both mountain and lowland red foxes, as well as seminal findings on the ecological relations of the Cascade red fox. Dr. Ben Sacks, Director of the Mammalian Diversity and Conservation Lab and my supervising professor at the University of California at Davis, where I am a graduate student, is an expert in wild dog genetics and

conservation. The groundbreaking work of these scientists and their collaborators on the evolutionary history of the red fox in North America showed not only how unique mountain foxes are among the red foxes, but also that the Cascade red fox is the most genetically distinct of the mountain foxes, and occurs only in Washington state. My research aims to develop a better understanding of how environmental changes in the western mountains impact the conservation of this rare mountain carnivore. I have been working with volunteer wildlife biologists and citizen scientists to conduct non-invasive surveys throughout the year at high elevations

For the conservation of the Cascade red fox, its unique genetic makeup may be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, we hypothesize that its unique genetic history confers adaptations that have allowed the fox to thrive where others could not. On the other hand, such specialized adaptations can make it more difficult for the fox to adapt to changing habitats and climates.

Left: Black-phase Cascade red fox pup at Mt. Rainier, 2014 Photo: Bob Rae. Above: Cascade red fox, Mt. Rainier, May 30, 2015. Photo: Anthony Carado. Right: Cascade red fox female with pup, Mt. Rainier, 2011. Photo: Anthony Carado

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within the National Forest and National Park systems in the Cascades. We have deployed hundreds of remotely triggered wildlife cameras and walked, snowshoed, and skied endless miles collecting hair, scat, and urine from which DNA can be extracted to determine where Cascade red foxes live and where they don’t. I am concerned that the distribution of the Cascade red fox may be largely restricted to a few isolated, high-elevation areas of the Cascades. By examining if, and how well, fox populations are connected, and how this connectivity is predicted to change with climate change, we can begin to understand the long-term prospects for this unique carnivore. I am investigating whether the low number and fragmented distribution of the Cascade red fox is sufficient for them to successfully reproduce and maintain adequate levels of genetic diversity. For conservationists, genetic diversity is important for predicting how likely a species is to persist over the long term. With a diverse complement of genes, a population is more likely to include at least some individuals that can survive future environmental changes, such as the introduction of new diseases or parasites; or rising global temperatures. The process by which such initially exceptional individuals survive and contribute their genetic characteristics to the next generation is known as natural selection, and results in the continuing evolution of

species to their changing environment. The farther one travels to find a mate, the more likely that mate will be genetically distinct from oneself, resulting in more diverse offspring contributed to the population’s gene pool. Cascade red foxes may be scattered across a vast mountain landscape with huge distances and major barriers between them. My work suggests their strongholds are Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, and the Goat Rocks Wilderness. They seem to have been gone from Mount St. Helens since the 1980 eruption. There have been some foxes detected in the William O. Douglas and Norse Peak Wildernesses. They may occur in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and their presence in the North Cascades is largely unknown. For the conservation of the Cascade red fox, its unique genetic makeup may be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, we hypothesize that its unique genetic history confers adaptations that have allowed the fox to thrive where others could not. On the other hand, such specialized adaptations can make it more difficult for the fox to adapt to changing habitats and climates. Consequently, our goal should be to preserve as much genetic diversity within the mountain red foxes as possible. Part of the solution will be to identify the best corridors to ensure movement of individuals among islands of suitable habitat.

A Warming World How does climate change affect the Cascade red fox? The reality is we do not know yet. But there are some strong hypotheses worth testing. Impacts of climate change in the alpine environment have been well documented. Two key measures of climate change are temperature and precipitation patterns. In the mountains, changes manifest as rising temperatures and precipitation falling increasingly as rain, rather than snow, resulting in shorter, warmer, wetter, and less snowy winters. So what is the relationship between these climatic changes and Cascade red fox conservation? The Cascade red fox is strongly associated with high-elevation mountain habitats and is well adapted for life in snowy conditions. Compared to lowland red foxes, mountain foxes have much more fur lining the soles of their feet, which helps them function as snowshoes, and a smaller body size, which allows them to move with greater ease in deep, powdery snow. The Cascade red fox may use the mountain biome to escape predation from the coyote, which is a lowland-adapted species. Coyote abundance has been on the rise since the extirpation of the gray wolf in Washington in the 1920s and state and federal restrictions on lethal predator control. In addition, Cascade red foxes rely

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Cascade red fox captured by remote camera, Mt. Adams, Nov. 28, 2011. Photo: Cascades Carnivore Project

Red Fox, continued from previous page upon the subnivium for preying on winteractive small mammals. Unpredictable changes to the space that forms between the ground and deep snowpacks could have significant consequences for the Cascade red fox. Warming conditions can alter the insulating qualities of snow due to decreased depth and increased density, which is predicted to lower the temperature of this stable environment and reduce the abundance of small mammal prey. In addition, these foxes prey on small mammals in winter by pouncing through the snow to catch them as they move within this protected habitat. However, once the first winter rains fall on the loosely compacted snow, the snow pack hardens and may prevent foxes from accessing the subnivium for periods of time. This pattern is expected to become more prevalent as rain becomes increasingly common in the mountains. Hardening of the snowpack may also have the adverse effect of encouraging new predators and competitors to invade alpine and subalpine areas from which they would normally be excluded due to their reduced ability to travel in soft, deep snow. This encroachment may be the single greatest proximate threat to the Cascade red fox as it could result in competition during winter scarcity as well as increased mortality rates at the paws of predators such as the coyote. There are two primary environmental alterations associated with a warming climate that could potentially impact the Cascade red fox. The first is the encroachment of meadows by shrub and tree species. Climate change is causing tree line to shift upward in elevation, reducing the extent of the alpine meadows upon which the fox relies. The invasion of shrubs and conifer saplings into subalpine meadows has been well documented on Mt. Adams in photographs of particular locations taken 50 years apart. Subalpine meadows and their small mammal 10

communities provide the primary foraging grounds for Cascade foxes throughout most of the year. The second is the increased spread of plant diseases and pests. Fungal and beetle infestations are decimating the subalpine forest. The loss of whitebark pines from warming temperatures and increases in disease are becoming more and more prevalent on the dry eastern slopes of the Cascade Range where mountain foxes are most likely to live. The Cascade red fox relies upon copses of these high-elevation pines and firs to hunt for snowshoe hares and white-tailed jackrabbits during the winter months, and for cover to use as daybeds and rest sites during the harshest winter blizzards. Finally, recent wildfires have severely affected some of the subalpine parklands and upper elevation forests that the Cascade red fox calls home on Mt. Adams and throughout the Cascades. This year, wildfires in the Cascades were the largest and most destructive on record. Wildfires are a natural part of ecological cycles but modern blazes burn so intensely due to the huge fuel loads that were created by 100 years of forest fire suppression and drought.

An Unpredictable Future What can we do to ensure that Cascade red fox populations will remain viable? A primary goal should be to continue systematic surveys over the long term and in the North Cascades to establish baseline conditions and monitor changes in their abundance and genetic diversity. Increasingly, occurrence records obtained by citizens are becoming an essential part of this process. Such records enable scientists to identify new areas of current presence and may encourage the establishment of new ecological studies, which will be essential for the effective conservation of this unique and intrepid little fox. Research investigating habitat selection at multiple spatial

scales, movement patterns, predator-prey relationships, and home-range ecology is desperately needed to fill many key knowledge gaps about the conservation needs of this species. In addition, we should protect denning sites. This is especially important in preventing unnecessary pup mortalities when they emerge from their dens. The next phase of the Cascades Carnivore Project aims to investigate microhabitats most important to the Cascade red fox and determine how the essential components of their habitats will be affected by future changes to the composition and climate of the landscapes they occupy in their mountain home. Ultimately the fate of all alpine species lies within our ability, or inability, to care for our unique alpine landscape, and to address the potential threats to their persistence. The Cascade red fox has been evolving its unique character for hundreds of thousands of years in North America. With a little more attention from scientists, resource managers, and the public, I am hopeful that we will find a way to help our mountaineering friend persist well into the future. Report your mountain red fox sightings to cascadescarnivore@gmail.com This research on the Cascade red fox is generously funded by the Mazamas, the Mammalian Diversity and Conservation Laboratory (University of California, Davis), Gifford Pinchot, Mt. Hood, and Okanagan-Wenatchee National Forests, Mt. Rainier National Park, the Mountaineers, Norcross Wildlife Foundation, Oregon Zoo Foundation, The Wildlife Society Washington, WDFW Aquatic Lands Enhancement Account, Washington Foundation for the Environment, Washington’s National Park Fund, and the tireless efforts of many citizen scientists, wildlife biologists, and laboratory genetics interns at the University of California, Davis.


Kilimanjaro: A Route February 7-19, 2015 Less Taken by Paul Steger, Outing Leader

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he day began with several of our climbing guides showing up at our hotel in Moshi, Tanzania, with a mini bus. We began a tour of the Chagga Village in the Marangu area, 4,000 to 6,000 feet on the southern slope of Mt. Kilimanjaro. All of our guides were of the Chagga people, and the first stop was an outdoor museum consisting of housing, tools, and implements of everyday living. In an earlier time, they constructed conical homes made of wood and grasses that allowed for storage, and refuge for their livestock. Circling their homes were pineapple plants to keep rodents, snakes and small wild cats out of the living quarters. Everyday activities took place both in and outside of their homes, which were constructed by the women. Millet was a major staple and we had a chance to thrash the dried plants and note the grinding stones in the production of flour.

Eric Hoem and I had planned this particular excursion with Embark Adventures, a Portland travel company. During the 2014 Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) we shared with the students our upcoming Kilimanjaro outing. Several voiced interest and Charles Blanke asked an intriguing question. As a cancer research doctor and chair of SWOG ( formerly Southwest Oncology Group), he is acutely aware of the consistent lack of research funding in that field. Without interfering with the outing, Charles wondered if we would entertain the concept of his doing the climb as a fundraiser

for cancer research. He later spoke with Lee Davis, our Executive Director, and I spoke with representatives from The Hope Foundation, the charity through which the funds would be donated, and it was decided to support this initiative. Before long, Brett Sheppard, a colleague of Charles, had joined our team and the fundraiser. Another member of our team, also a former BCEP student, David Hamilton, volunteered to be our photographer. Laura Guderyahn agreed to lead the collection and distribution of tip money for our support people in Tanzania. Before long Ardel Frick had joined our team, in

Into the crater. Photo: Paul Steger.

addition to Laura’s husband Kim Kopowski. Sara Stille reached out to us about a month before we left and joined our group. After hiking down to a river, visiting a 70-meter waterfall in a lovely vegetative canyon, and stopping in at local elementary school (where on this Sunday we met several young children showing us their athletic prowess), we visited the Chagga caves. The Chagga people are one of over 120 tribes that populate Tanzania. They journeyed to the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro during the middle of the last millennium after being attacked by the Massai people to the north

in what is now the Nation of Kenya. Upon arrival to this area, the Chagga people built long tunnels, up to two kilometers in length, so that when the Massai raided to steal their cattle and women, they would have an escape and hiding place. They basically constructed an underground village where they could live for weeks to avoid raiders. We found it interesting that with the arrival of the escaping Chagga people, the local Pygmy tribal people were forced to move east into what is now Rwanda. All of this occurred around 1400.

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Kilimanjaro, continued from previous page Representatives from among the more than 120 tribes of Tanzania live in Moshi, the city closest to Kilimanjaro. While in the city we were often awakened early in the morning by the call to prayer from the mosque down the road. Sunday mornings and some evenings, as well, we heard singing from the large Protestant church across the street from our hotel. We understand Christians and Muslims get along well throughout Tanzania. Kilimanjaro cannot be climbed without the assistance of support personnel. We learned more about this when touring Moshi and visiting the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project facility, a nonprofit in support of healthy work conditions and appropriate pay for porters and others who support trekkers on Kilimanjaro. Donovan Pacholl of Embark Adventures, our outfitter, is a founding member. Donations are happily accepted at www.kiliporters.org. Mount Kilimanjaro is a huge stratovolcano that lies 80 kilometers east of the Rift Valley in East Africa. Kilimanjaro is but one of several mountain-building episodes that have taken place here during the past few million years. Our approach trek to the Western Breach climbing route had us hike through the Shira Caldera, a remnant of an earlier huge stratovolcano that collapsed into itself, similar to the creation of Crater Lake and Newberry Crater. As we trekked, we observed much evidence of volcanology: parasitic cones, lava flows, and ridges. At times during our approach, we were able to see both glaciers and signs of glaciation. During our summit day, we were able to see glaciers and walk next to their walls in the crater. We also 12

experienced “the snows of Kilimanjaro,” in that fresh precipitation fell on us numerous times as we trekked and climbed. Scientists estimate that the snowcap has receded 75 percent since the early 20th century. And although we experienced snowstorms during the dry season, geologists predict the glaciers of Kilimanjaro could be gone in less than 50 years. Our initial day began with a drive of several hours from Moshi to reach the Londorosi Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park. We traveled through fertile agricultural areas where we often saw people tending their farms. The southern slopes of Kilimanjaro are moist and support lush forests. While passing some recently harvested fields we saw black and white colobus monkeys gleaning the fields. Later, along with blue monkeys in other locations, we saw their relatives high in the tree canopy. As I observed these primates I quickly realized that they moved consistently in small groups and did not sit for long periods, as do colobus monkeys at the Oregon Zoo. At the Londorosi Park gate, besides signing in with park rangers, we had the experience of observing the routine of porter and support personnel being processed for our trek. In addition to porters carrying our equipment, other personnel were hired to carry trekking necessities such as tents, stoves and fuel canisters, food, toilets, and water cans. Each support person carried their own personal equipment that was checked by our guides and park rangers to determine adequacy for our climb. This was critical for the success of our trek since a number of these people would be spending a very cold night at 18,600 feet with us in

the crater. Trekker’s equipment carried by porters could not exceed 22 kilograms, but our duffels were generally well below that weight. Hiking this trail was for several of us the first time walking a path through tropical rain forest. Fortunately, this was a well-trodden trail since there were many porters with large heavy loads passing us as we looked at plants, animals and various microenvironments. We were soon spread out along the trail as we moved at our individual paces with different guides hiking at a pace to be near and or engaged in conversation with us. Near the equator, one has but twelve hours of sunlight each day throughout the year. Whereas during summer in the Pacific Northwest one may hike into the evening hours, we were into darkness by approximately 6 p.m. Since we had gotten a late start, and some of us dawdled along the trail trying to take it all in, we arrived at Forest Camp, 9,829 feet, a little before sunset. Our tents were already set up and dinner would soon be ready. Our only obligation was to inflate our sleeping pads, pull out our sleeping bags, wash off the day’s dirt, and rest. Camping at over 8,000 feet near the equator is still camping at elevation and it can still feel cold after several days of trying to sleep in Moshi with high temperatures and humidity. For the first night, several of us found it difficult to sleep, excited by being on this adventure and having sleeping cycles disrupted by so much travel. Within a few hours of leaving camp, we transitioned from dense forest zone to the heather zone where some

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The weather had become unsettled, and as we climbed, it became increasingly harsh with snow and buffeting winds. As we ascended we could only see a person or two in front or behind. In such conditions we did not realize we had gained the summit until we saw the Mt. Kilimanjaro Congratulations sign.

Trekking across Shira. Photo: Paul Steger

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Kilimanjaro,

continued from previous page common as well as unusual plants grow. By the end of the day we had climbed into the moorland zone. Unlike hiking in the United States, where we typically hike a trail that gradually follows the contour of a ridge or valley when crossing a deep canyon, following these trails we dropped straight down into the valley and then straight up the other side to a higher ridge. This was our progression throughout the day until we approached the Shira Ridge where we descended into a huge caldera. Just before gaining the ridge, a guide pointed out a chameleon on a plant beside the trail. Not unlike those living at lower elevations, it moved very slowly, with it’s mitten like feet, along the branch, displaying beautiful colors. Soon our path continued down to Shira 1 Camp where many of our porters were singing and dancing with members of our Mazama team joining in. Group singing and dancing were common throughout our trek and climb. There was much to see along the way and each day provided new experiences. As we hiked across the Shira Plateau we were in the moorland zone transitioning to the alpine desert zone and observed how water and elevation play such an important role in the growth of plants. Views of our surroundings changed and at such an altitude we could see south and west onto the vast African Continent. Although we planned this outing to occur during the middle of a dry season, we experienced moisture at least half the days we were trekking and on all climbing days. During our acclimatization period of two days at Lava Tower, 15,200 feet, and one at our high camp of Arrow Glacier, we experienced hail or snow most of the time. It soon became obvious to us that our summit plans would have to change. Freddy, our head guide, knew the weather forecast from the Tanzanian weather service predicted continued unsettled weather and more precipitation. Late that afternoon, following discussion with the other guides and a telephone call with Donovan, our outfitter with Embark Adventures back in Oregon, Freddy shared his insights with us about attempting the summit without camping in the crater. The safe decision was

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made that we would attempt the summit the day we were to camp in the crater and that two of us moving more slowly than the others would start an hour early. Eric, who had been having physical-health issues with his hip as we ascended through more difficult terrain, decided not to attempt the summit, but to hike around the mountain at a lower elevation and meet us as we descended in two days. He believed that he would slow us down, and with the current weather conditions, cause an additional safety risk. In our attempt, the two separate teams joined together after daybreak a little below the crater wall experiencing increasing clouds. Soon we were in the crater, noting features, taking photos and eating before making the final attempt to the Uhuru peak at 19,330 feet. The weather had become unsettled, and as we climbed, it became increasingly harsh with snow and buffeting winds. As we ascended we could only see a person or two in front or behind. In such conditions we did not realize we had gained the summit until we saw the Mt. Kilimanjaro Congratulations sign. Cameras were quickly pulled out as well as banners some of us carried so that the obligatory photos could be taken. In such conditions and with some people becoming cold, it was a short stay on the summit. We descended to Stella Point on the rim where we picked up the tourist route down to Barafo Camp at 15,800 feet and spent the night. Although we had descended from Stella Point without additional snow on our summit day, the unsettled weather was not

over yet. Once in camp, most people fell into their tents exhausted and ready for a wellearned nap. During dinner, another storm rose with thunder and lightning as well as very strong winds buffeting our tents with snow. That night was spent in our sleeping bags in ever shrinking tents as snow piled up. It was not unlike stormy nights spent high on Cascade peaks. The next morning we woke to a brilliant blue sky, sunshine, and several inches of new snow. Since we were now on the southeast side of the mountain, this was the first morning we woke with the sun on our camp. We explored our winter wonderland and took many photos of the area since we could see to far off horizons. Several other groups had tents blown down during the night. We realized that the storm of the previous night would have caught us in the crater if we had decided to camp there as originally planned. Although some of us enjoyed a slow pace and the chance to investigate our surroundings as we continued our two-day descent, our journey was over too quickly. Our final meal together was at the Mweka Gate entrance to the national park. Our cooks again created a wonderful meal, always much better than the dehydrated meals we often enjoy when climbing on our own in the Pacific Northwest. While support staff sang and danced with members of our climb party, we received climb certificates for our accomplishment. That night we would have a group dinner, reflect upon our outing and consider adventures to come. Laura, Kim, and Paul looking at the sunset. Photo: Paul Steger.


Mazamas in the khumbu

CISM Team Provides Support to Sherpas Affected by the Everest Tragedy

An elderly Sherpa woman in Nepal. Photo: Marina Wynton.

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n October 2014, three members of the Mazama Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) team traveled to Nepal to meet with families who had lost members in the April 2014 avalanche on Mt. Everest. Shortly after their trip, CISM committee chair and Nepal team leader Marina Wynton sat down with Sarah Bradham for an interview about her team’s experience in Nepal. How did this trip come together? Last spring Conrad Anker and Lee Davis were talking by phone about the tragic deaths of 16 Sherpa guides in the April avalanche on Mt. Everest. Conrad talked about how the families of those who died were affected: grieving from the loss of husbands, future husbands, fathers, uncles, brothers, cousins, and friends. Lee mentioned that when traumatic events occur in outdoor activities Mazama members can work with the Critical Incident Stress Management team to sort through the incident and trauma that may have occurred. Conrad wondered if the Mazamas could send someone to Nepal to offer emotional support to the families.

What was the purpose, or goal of this trip? The purpose of the trip was to provide emotional support to families of the deceased. We were very aware that Nepalese people experience and manage grief and the loss of a loved one in a very different

way than we do. In preparation we met several times with Sherpa people who live in Portland; they were invaluable in working with us to help us understand the Sherpa culture, what issues people were facing, and the state of mountaineering in Nepal from the Sherpa perspective. We went to Nepal with the intent to provide an opportunity for people to tell us their stories, and to listen well and offer support in ways that would work for them. Bob Peirce, a Mazama and former trekking guide in Nepal, was also very helpful to us and supportive of our efforts.

component in the success of the trip and helping us through logistics. We traveled with two Nepali guides, Karki and Kami, and two porters, Depok and Lhakpha. Our guides really made the trip happen for us, taking care of all kinds of logistics, medical problems, arranging lodging, locating families, and translating. Chhongba Sherpa, a good friend of Jenni’s, acted as a translator and also helped to spread the word in the Khumbu region of our arrival and nature of our visit. Dave Morton, Alpine Ascents guide and Juniper Fund founder, also helped with preparing the families for our visits.

Who was a part of the CISM Team?

When did this trip take place?

Mazama CISM team members were Katie Foehl, Drew Prochniak (licensed professional counselor), and Marina Wynton. Mike Pajunas, invited by Jenni Anker to work on the Khumbu Climbing Center under construction in Phortse, also accompanied the team. Jiban Ghimire, owner of Shangri-La Nepal developed our itinerary in Nepal and was an essential

We arrived in Kathmandu on October 25 and spent a few days there before flying on to Lukla to begin trekking on October 27. Mike and I returned to Kathmandu on November 13 and were back in Portland on two days later.

What route did you take? From Kathmandu we flew to Lukla, and from there we began trekking. Our route

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Khumbu, continued from previous page was: Lukla to Phakding to Namche Bazaar to Thamo to Thame to Thamo to Khumjung to Phortse to Dingboche (Tengboche Monestary) to Pangboche to Namche Bazaar to Phadking to Lukla to Kathmandu. Our first meeting was in Kathmandu with several family members. Chhongba Sherpa translated. We started the trek in the Khumbu from Lukla, arriving in Phakding the first day and Namche Bazaar the second day. There Drew and I met with four women whose husbands died on Everest. Sherap Jangbu Sherpa, owner of the Panorama Lodge translated. The day after Mike departed for Phortse, Katie, Drew and I went in the opposite direction to Thamo. In Thamo we met with Ang Riku, the wife of the cook who died on Everest. Ang Riku runs a teahouse in Thamo and gave us a delicious meal of Sherpa stew and lemon tea. Our next stop that day was Thame. Two women traveled some miles to meet us in Thame to share their stories. One of them traveled an hour and a half on foot from Tarnaga—a small remote village beyond Thame. Her husband Dorje Sherpa, had been a guide for Alpine International Ascents and died in the Everest avalanche. They have four children—ages 6, 8, 10, and 15. By the time we met with her, she had received the first payment from the Juniper Fund, meant as replacement for lost salary. Her children’s education is covered by the Sherpa Education Fund, and since her children are all in school in Kathmandu, she lives alone now. Our main concern for her is that she is alone a lot of the time in a remote village. We were able to offer her information about self care when suffering trauma. Unfortunately, she has no access to 16

mental health care and very limited access to health care in general, so monitoring her progress, ongoing support, or follow up is next to impossible. We encouraged her to spend time with friends, neighbors, and family as much as possible and seek care at the medical clinic if her depression didn’t lift fairly soon. We hope to have a visit with her again next year to check in to see how she’s doing. She expressed much gratitude for our visit, was thankful that we had traveled so far to see her and offer support. We also visited the school in Thame and left crayons and toothbrushes with the teachers, and children’s books in the Magic Yeti Library. Up to this point Katie had been struggling with a cold and in Thame become so ill that we made the decision to send her back to Kathmandu. Drew and I went on with one guide and one porter back through Thamo. When we arrived back in Thamo, Ang Riku was holding a puja ceremony in her tea house to honor her husband. Llamas perform the all day ceremony chanting, praying, meditating, drumming, and blowing horns. After lunch there, we traveled on to Khumjung, the location of an airport, hospital, and a private high school. So far the weather in the Khumbu had been brilliant—sunshine, very clear and cold—with gorgeous mountain, river, and valley views and beautiful sunsets. As we descended into Khumjung the weather changed quickly to very foggy and cold. We left early the next morning for Phortse. Phortse is a very small, remote farming village with especially beautiful views of Cho Oyu and Khumbi Yul Lha mountains. The Khumbu Climbing School is held here every year with the support of

two lodges adjacent to the building site. The lodges have donated the land for the climbing school in construction. Drew left the next day to return to Kathmandu and then travel to Iceland. Mike had a few more days of work on the building to complete, so I busied myself with walks around the village to the monastery, the school library, and through the yak grazing fields; doing laundry, catching up on reading, and writing. The group was now down to Mike, me, and our guide, Karki, and porter, Depok. Our next destination was to attend the Mani Rimdu festival at Tengboche Monastery. We spent two nights in Dingboche, a small village along a river a short walk away from the monastery. We then moved on to Pangboche where Karki, acting as translator, and I, met with two women on the back porch of our teahouse. Ama Dablam base camp is a three-hour walk from Pangboche, so we saw many trekkers coming and going. The view of Ama Dablam from Pangboche is spectacular, especially in the evening alpenglow. From Pangboche we started our return trek with stops in Namche Bazaar, Phadking, Lukla and back to Kathmandu. (Our professional ethics require us to maintain confidentiality with all people we provide support to and we are very strict about that. I don’t offer much in the way of details of the official visits with people for that reason).

What was the reality of the trip versus the intended purpose? By the time we arrived to visit with most people, Dave Morton from The Juniper Fund had already visited. The Juniper


One woman traveled an hour and a half on foot from Tarnaga— a small remote village beyond Thame. Her husband, Dorje Sherpa, had been a guide for Alpine Ascents International, and died in the Everest avalanche. Fund provides monetary support to each family that will continue for the next four years. So when we arrived the families had received the first payment. We were able to work off that saying that we were friends of Dave’s and want to see how you are doing. Everyone was very thankful to have an opportunity to talk with us. And so grateful that we had traveled so far to support them. The intention was to see how we could help people and then try to do that.

What did you take away from this experience? It’s hard to adequately describe what we took away from this experience; I am still processing the experience, but here are a few thoughts: ▶▶ The Sherpa are a strong and beautiful people. ▶▶ Tourism is quickly eroding the culture and the environment. ▶▶ As a result of the exposure to western culture, people are giving up on an ancient way of life. ▶▶ Mountaineering in Nepal is devastating the male population and contributing to the erosion of the culture. ▶▶ The Nepali government is in extreme disarray and is not advocating for the Nepali people. On the flip side of the equation: ethical tourism and ethical mountaineering could shine a light on these issues and help create more positive changes. I think the more eyes on all these problems gives them more exposure and can contribute to positive changes. One of the best ways we can support the Sherpa people in the Khumbu is to support their communities, schools, monasteries,

and medical facilities and help with rebuilding villages.

Do you feel the Mazamas met the intended purpose of the trip? Very much. We were able to provide direct support to all the people we intended to reach and more. Sherpa deaths will continue. We have begun an important effort that we hope to continue and evolve as we get to know them better. One important thing to note is that many people and organizations came together to make this effort, this trip, happen. Many, many thanks to our Mazama member donors and donors outside the organization; Mazama Executive Council and staff: Lee Davis, Jamie Anderson, Sarah Bradham, and Kati Mayfield; Juniper Fund; Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation; Shangra-La Nepal; and the Nepali/Sherpa community in Portland. We all share a common goal to improve life for the Nepali people in the Khumbu. I’m hopeful that we will continue to work together.

Overall, do you feel as though this trip was valuable? To whom? From my perspective everyone involved has benefited. We are so fortunate to be in a position to offer aide to the Sherpa people. I would love to hear how each person involved would answer that question. Personally, I am so honored that I was able to sit with people and hear their stories; it was very moving. What a simple and humane thing it is to sit and listen and be present for another person. This cuts across

all cultural divisions. I arrived home with a deep sense of gratitude for my life, my family and friends, and my freedom. And ready to get busy with figuring out what’s next. (As far as we could determine mental health care is essentially nonexistent outside of Kathmandu and even there, very limited. We were able to provide direct care in remote villages to people who desperately needed support. Lastly this is a very important and unique way for the Mazamas and the mountaineering community to give back to the country and people of Nepal. As I have said, mountaineering has changed the culture enormously. This is a small way that we can make a positive difference and build good relations.)

Follow-Up Karen Vernier and Marina Wynton had planned to return to the Khumbu in November 2015, to check in with the women and families the three CISM team members met with in 2014 and many others who were affected by loss as a result of the earthquake and subsequent avalanche on Mt. Everest in spring 2015. Due to fuel shortages caused by a rift with the Indian government, their flights were canceled by the airline the day before they were scheduled to depart. Marina and the Mazama CISM team are making plans to partner with the Juniper Fund to return in 2016.

From left: Marina and Drew at the Buddha Restaurant in Mongla at 13,500 ft. Mongla is between Thamo and Khumjung. Mike standing on a rock taking pictures of the Dudh Koshi River on the return trek. Photos: Marina Wynton.

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What Does it Take?

The Building of the Khumbu Climbing Center in Phortse, Khumbu, Nepal The author enroute to Phortse.

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by Mike Pajunas

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he Khumbu region of Nepal is well known as the location of many beautiful Himalayan mountains: Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest and Lhotse to name a few. The Sherpa people native to the Khumbu Region have been risking their lives for many years working for high altitude expeditions as guides and porters. Death in the Himalayas and especially Mt. Everest is a too common occurrence, particularly for the Sherpa men who climb the dangerous routing up the Khumbu Icefall.

Planning starts for a climbing center in the Khumbu The idea for the Khumbu Climbing Center was conceived in 2003 by Jennie Lowe Anker and her husband Conrad Anker, founders of The Alex Lowe Charitable Fund (ALCF). The Ankers wanted to establish a climbing school in the village of Phortse where more Sherpa wanted to work on Mt. Everest, but needed mountaineering training to do it safely. A two week course was set up using Western climbers to teach climbing skills, mountain safety, rescue, and the English language. The school has been incredibly successful; more than 1,000 students, men and women, have attended the course. In 2007, the Khumbu Climbing Center Board began work on design of a building for the climbing school, so it could operate year round. The building would have indoor and outdoor climbing walls, meeting space for the school and community, an office, library, kitchen, and showers. Two families who own lodges in Phortse donated the land for the building. Over three years a group

of graduate architecture students at Montana State University, under the instruction of Professor Mike Everts, went through the design process considering siting, plans, and cultural considerations. Priorities were to create the first earthquake resistant structure in the Khumbu and to use a passive solar system. Gabion wire cages would be used to strengthen dry stack stone walls. Local building materials would be quarried stone from the village hillside. In 2009 the first team of MSU graduate students went to Phortse to begin construction. The team was led by architect, Dean Soderberg, who had also worked on the design as a grad student. Dean has returned every fall season to oversee construction; he has given a year and a half of his time to building the KCC over the last six years. Tim Harrington, a building contractor from Boulder, Colorado, is the spring season construction leader. The Mazamas became involved in 2013 when Conrad Anker visited Portland and spoke at the annual Portland Alpine Fest; as part of that year’s festivities, the Mazamas held a


successful fundraiser for the Khumbu Climbing Center. In April 2014, an avalanche struck a group of Sherpa establishing the route through the Khumbu Icefall and 16 Sherpa were killed. The Mazamas Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) team was asked by the Ankers to provide grief support to families of the Sherpas who perished. The Khumbu Climbing Center was about 30 percent completed, and with the help of Jennie Lowe Anker and the ALCF, I was able to accompany the CISM team to Nepal to help with construction. I departed for Nepal on October 25, and it took me three days to get to Kathmandu (with passport problems) but there was still that wonderful feeling at the beginning of the journey: the excitement of the unknown and living in the moment. It was the start of a great adventure, made even better as Marina and I were there to help the Nepali people in ways we each could.

An amazing, beautiful journey The entrance to the Khumbu is a narrow mountainous gateway accessible by a small prop plane. Symbolically, this small airplane fights its way for more elevation to gain access to the high mountain pass before fast moving clouds close the gateway. Flying into Lukla Airport (elevation 8,500 feet) is a roll of the dice: a tilted landing strip perched on a high mountain side. A rock wall located at the far end of the landing strip forces planes to break hard and quickly turn right; very exciting! The trek into the Khumbu began from Lukla. The trek seemed like a blur of time, and, a moment clear as the mountain high sky. We walk up and down stone stairs as the path leads past stone houses and fields. We see trekkers from all over the world: German, French, Japanese, American, and Canadian. On the trail, yak trains and porters carry everything: six sheets of plywood, mattresses seven feet high, a kitchen counter and sink in one load, a man-sized bundle of bamboo shoots for dinner, cases of beer, and boxes of noodles. The trail is the main highway for all people and goods traveling the Khumbu. This trekking trail follows the beautiful

Duh Kosi River (translated, it means “milky river”) through forests of Himalayan pine, hemlock, beech, and rhododendron. Village tea houses, lodges and homes nestle closely to the trail, made of hand-quarried basalt, dry stacked with corrugated metal roofs and brightly painted wood frame windows. A door or curtain is often open with children peeking out shyly for a glimpse of us. Chickens and dogs freely roam the stone path. Suspension bridges provide some excitement as the trail eventually leaves the river. We climbed breathlessly out of the river valley for 2,700 feet to Namche Bazaar, the largest village in the Khumbu, at an elevation of 11,300 feet. The trekking day to Namche was long and strenuous: seven miles up over very rugged terrain in seven hours. Everyone is very tired but it is a gift to be here. Namche at night reminds me of Christmas. It is nestled into a hillside high above a dark forested valley. The glacier-covered mountain, Kongde Ri (20,000 feet), shines in the background under the moonlit sky. The lights of lodges twinkle in the crisp, clean, cold mountain air. It is stunningly beautiful. We stayed at The Panorama Lodge. Sherep Jangbu and Lhapka Sherpa, the lodge owners, greet us as we drop our packs and enter the tea house. It is an amazing feeling to be here and to be expected as guests. As soon as we are seated on benches along the windows overlooking the village, large thermoses of tea are brought out. I find on this trip that you hardly need water as you have so many cups of tea with lunch and dinner. It is a pleasure to hike and then sit in a tea house, relax with the tea, and then hike again. My wife, Marina, said it well when she said that meditative walking, as a daily practice and a necessity, is how you

travel here; so embrace the walk and be happy in the morning sunshine. Everyone takes a day off from the trek in Namche to rest and acclimatize. We wandered the bazaar, the shops, visited the local monastery and the park devoted to natural history and Tensing Norgay. The next day I departed for Phortse with a porter; the CISM team is traveling in a different direction so I am on my own now. The trail above Namche traverses a broad hillside where you begin to feel the size of nature in this part of Nepal. The pine trees are stunted and soon disappear. Azaleas and grass cover the subalpine ground on the way to Mong La, at 13,000 feet. This small

The Khumbu Climbing Center was about 30 percent completed, and with the help of Jennie Lowe Anker and the ALCF, I was able to accompany the CISM team to Nepal to help with construction.

village pass (“La” means pass) is incredibly scenic, overlooking the Duh Koshi River thousands of feet below, with the peaks Thamserku (20,7000 feet) and Kantega (20,857 feet) rising dramatically above. Crossing the pass, we drop down through spectacular giant fir trees, into a rhododendron forest and further down, into a gorgeous river valley. We hike back up a hillside of beech forests, then pop out of the woods to be greeted by stacks of mani stones (stones inscribed with mantras or spiritual designs) and a white stupa. This is Phortse. Blue pheasants and crows hop along in the tree tops and yaks graze at the edge of the trail on the steep hillside. The two lodges—the Namaste and the Phortse Guest House—are located at the lower end of the village just above the fields. The Khumbu Climbing Center building is between

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Climbing Center, continued from previous page the two lodges, on land given by the owners of both. I entered the tea house at Namaste Lodge and was met by Lhakpa Dorji, the gracious lodge owner and former Mt. Everest guide, and his wife Nawang. His daughter, Fu Doma, welcomed me with tea, and I was shown to a sunny, warm room to stash my gear.

The Khumbu Climbing Center under construction After settling in at the lodge, I went to find Dean at the building site. He gave me a tour of the construction in process including gabion-wrapped rock footings, and the immense back wall of the building, standing about 18 feet high and 3 feet thick ( for the first 8 feet of height). For the second floor, wooden posts support steel floor joists; there will be a library and classroom space on the second floor. To shorten the roof span, an engineered truss connects the front and back walls. This is critical when building by hand, as available steel must be considered for length and weight. The building is about 30 percent complete. Floors, roof, exterior walls, and windows are yet to be built. The interior walls will have foam insulation board with a plywood finish panel. One-eighth or onequarter inch plywood is typical wall finish material for teahouses or lodge rooms in the Khumbu. Since there will be no stud wall framing against the gabion walls the plywood finish material will be threequarter inch plywood. How the plywood will attach to the gabion walls is yet to be determined. The floor of the ground floor will be cement pavers (made in Kathmandu and transported by plane and yak) or slate. All the houses in the Khumbu once had slate roofs, but slate is slowly being replaced by corrugated steel painted red or green. I think slate is the right choice for flooring of the KCC; it is locally quarried and an historic building material. Sand and gravel are sifted from the river below the village and hand-carried up to the site. The flooring of concrete pavers or slate will be dry set with sand. Cement mortar is very expensive (90 dollars for an 80 pound bag) and has to be transported by plane and yak from Kathmandu. For the exterior walls, gabion wire cages filled with rocks take the place of cement; dry stacking is very costly, and stone without cement would not withstand earthquake movement. The 20

traditional stone building method in the Khumbu is mortar joints or tight fitting, perfectly chiseled granite blocks for strength, and concrete pillars for corners in multi-story buildings. This type of construction was ruled out as too expensive for the climbing center. We toured the village quarry, located on an adjacent hillside behind a beech forest. It was quiet; the quarry had not yet opened for the season. The stone masons split the quarried rock by pounding sharpened, casehardened pipe into buried boulders, creating a series of holes until the rock gives way. For the next seven days, Dean and I worked on finalizing wall elevations, erecting steel wall supports and re-building the top of a 35-foot long gabion wall for the final cement cap. The Nepali stone masons arrived part way through the week and began chipping quarried rock into useable building blocks. Each day the workers case-hardened their tools with a small wood coal fire and a bellows. Now and then I would pause in my work, look up at the mountains around Phortse, and think wow, I’m in Nepal!

At home in Phortse We began each day with a family style breakfast made by Fu Dome and Nawang. Omelets, french toast, Sherpa toast with cherry jam from China. A note from my journal says “honey is good, butter is sparse, jam is from China.” One morning we had warm goat milk with some sort of grain in it. I asked Dean, “what’s this?” He said, “cornflakes.” Cornflakes... silly me. I went for early morning walks around the village as the sun came up to experience the ‘being there’ moments, with the frosted grass, the silence, the ancient stupas of the lower fields and the monastery on the highest sacred ground.

I didn’t get to experience the Everest Trek like so many we met on the trail. But this time in Phortse was very special for me; I was there to begin each day, to see the sun rise and the smoke rising from the houses at dawn, to encounter the one-horned bull (and stand aside!), and to live for a short time with the friendly Sherpa people. I felt very at home in Phortse. Marina and her guide, Karki, arrived in Phortse several days later. The CISM team had been trekking from village to village visiting with families. The other members of the team had already begun the return trek. I was very happy to see my wife’s smiling face again in this marvelous place. While I worked, Marina had time to wander the village and fields in the sunshine, visit the local monastery and the children’s library, read, do our laundry (in a big bowl of hot water outside) and rest up for the return trek. At the Namaste Lodge, Lhapka and Nawang work to keep everyone comfortable and well fed. The walls of the


dining room are solid with family photos: images of Lhakpa and Nawang as a young couple with their children, and Lhakpa as an Everest guide. Lhapka has a big hearty laugh and a huge smile for everyone. In the evenings, we sit on benches at the tables, drinking tea, beer, and eating dinner; the meal may be Sherpa stew, dal bhat, fried macaroni, chicken chow mein. The room is filled with German and Norwegian trekkers, Nepali porters, village neighbors, and us. We pass the time playing a new card game called Kings Corner and wait for the yak dung-fired wood stove to heat the room. We went to bed early; the frosty fall night is longer than the day and we were usually very tired after a long day of construction.

The small rooms are uninsulated and unheated and extremely cold at night. Before entering, one quickly uses the bathroom and dives pronto into the sleeping bag to read for a bit with a headlamp. I didn’t have enough warm clothes to stay outside for very long at night, and a cloud layer or fog would often move in to obstruct the night sky. It was a great experience to go to a place where Shangri-la could be found. Nepal is an amazing place with wonderful, gracious people. I’m hoping to return in the fall, meet up with Dean, and get back to work on the construction of the Khumbu Climbing Center.

Coda Mike Pajunas and Marina Wynton (along with Karen Vernier) were scheduled to return to the Khumbu region in November of 2015. Dean Soderberg was expecting Mike at the building site; the families she met with in 2014 were expecting another visit from Marina. While the on-foot sections of the November itinerary were set in stone, their flights from China were cancelled— due to the embargo of fuel into Nepal—and they were unable to rebook. As 2016 began, so did the first planning stages for Mike and Marina’s next trip to Nepal. Left page, Top: Road to Namche—Mani stones and prayer wheel. Bottom: A yak train. Above: Phortse. Photos: Marina Wynton.


The Pacific Marten. Photo: Shem Harding.

Mt. Cruiser Climb A Rare Sighting

by John Rettig

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t’s not on every Mazama climb that you get to summit a mountain AND encounter a rarely observed animal.

But that’s exactly what happened on June 20, 2015, when seven Mazamas stumbled up Mt. Cruiser in the Olympics’ Sawtooth Range with me. It was a good reminder that while summit views are almost always spectacular, the things that happen on the way to the summit can be just as spectacular, if not more so. Our group had just stopped for a break, when a little critter suddenly popped out to have a look at us. We were sitting in a rocky area above the tree line between The Needle and Mt. Cruiser. (The exact location is being withheld, in agreement with the US Forest Service (USFS) and National Park Service (NPS) scientists, to protect the individual marten). At first, I dismissed the animal as just another marmot or pika. But after a second, more careful, look, I recognized the narrow-set binocular eyes and very slender build that characterizes members of the weasel family. That the animal was extremely curious about us and our activities, and generally was not particularly wary of our presence, was another indicator that this critter belonged to the Mustelidae family. The size of the animal suggested it was a marten or fisher, and after some 22

group discussion, we realized we were probably looking at something quite rare. I knew that sightings in the Pacific Northwest have been very rare for any of the Martes genus, as they are known to live at a very low population density, even within their normal range. But this marten was living at the extreme of its documented range. So the sighting was doubly significant. Fortunately, one member of our team, Shem Harding, had his camera ready and was able to take several photographs. We also took note of the marten’s behavior, which included a breathtakingly exposed four-foot jump. We marked the GPS waypoint, then carried on with our climb. When we returned to Portland, I quickly submitted a report and pictures to the USFS, not knowing if there would be any followthrough.


The lesson that our marten sighting drives home for me is just how extremely important it is that we all act as responsible stewards for the alpine areas that we love. How rare was this sighting? On the Tuesday following the climb, within a half hour of the report reaching the NPS and USFS wildlife scientists, my email inbox ignited with descriptions of how meaningful our sighting was, along with kind words of thanks for documenting and reporting it. According to Dr. Patricia Happe, Wildlife Branch Chief at Olympic National Park, “Neither I nor any of my crew is likely to go near [Mt. Cruiser]—we are all hikers, but no one is a climber—maybe that is why we have not been finding any marten after all these years of looking …The last verified sighting of a marten in our region was in 2008 near Mt. Rose … [And then] the fisher study JUST (June 3, 2015) picked up a marten in the upper Hoh Valley. Your sighting [on top of this one] near Mt. Cruiser, in a completely different area, is really exciting.” Betsy Howell, Wildlife Biologist with the Olympic National Forest, wrote, “We have been trying for many years to get information on where marten are residing in the park and forest and haven’t had much luck … Olympic National Park and National Forest, along with Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife and U.S. Geological Survey, are planning more marten surveys this winter and we’ll be having a meeting soon to discuss. We’ll definitely be talking about your sighting.”

The lesson that our marten sighting drives home for me is just how extremely important it is that we all act as responsible stewards for the alpine areas that we love. This encounter is an example of yet another way we can manifest that stewardship. Buried in the email clamor in my inbox was the suggestion that future studies might be able to take advantage of the Mazamas frequent access to the rocky summit areas above tree line. We’ve since prevailed upon other climbs headed into the area to be on the lookout and to observe and record. Learning how to observe and photograph animals in the wilderness, especially for gender identification, and recording GPS coordinates and gathering scat samples for DNA and other studies will help scientists evaluate the diversity, diet, and health of a given population. Reporting any marten or fisher sightings on the Olympic Peninsula will further this important work. You may submit information about a sighting or request a training by sending an email to conservation@mazamas. org.

Sawtooth Ridge from Flapjack Lakes (the Fin, the Horn; Cruiser is behind the ridge left of the left edge of the photo.) Mt. Lincoln is off to the right. Photo: Glenn Widener.

PACIFIC MARTEN: THE FACTS The Pacific marten, Martes Caurina, is a rarely seen mammal in Washington’s Olympic National Forest. It is a carnivore from the Mustelidae family, which includes wolverines, badgers, otters, skunks, minks, martens, fishers, weasels, and ferrets. Because it was heavily trapped from the 1890s through the 1940s, it was nearly extirpated. In spite of formal winter studies conducted from 2001 onward, there have been only four verified sightings in 27 years. In 1988, one was seen alive and photographed near The Brothers Wilderness; a spotted owl study found two in a live trap in 1990 in the Buckhorn Wilderness (they were released); in 2008 a deceased juvenile Pacific marten was found by hikers near Mt. Rose; and in 2015 one was photographed in the Hoh Valley with an automated wildlife camera, as part of a fisher study. Our discovery—during a Mazama climb up Mt. Cruiser in June 2015—now brings the number to five verified sightings, and the first one in 25 years to be seen alive in person. In spite of significant efforts to locate and document the Pacific marten (the 2013-14 winter study involved 15 volunteers working 12 different days, which equates to 78 working days) the studies did not yield any martens (although they did result in documenting a rich and diverse wildlife population of cougars, bobcats, coyote, deer, elk, and yes—humans and domestic dogs). We have, in fact, encountered wolves in Oregon more times than we have martens in the Olympics—and we know there are only 77 wolves in nine packs in Oregon, as of the end of 2014. The contrast is quite stark! 23


On January 29, 2014, Mazama member Pam Monheimer became lost during an off-trail hike in the Columbia River Gorge. Her ordeal was covered by four television stations and two newspapers. Pam is an experienced hiker and climber and has completed numerous Mazama training courses, including the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), avalanche basics, Mountaineering First Aid (MFA), and CPR. “I want to tell this story,” Pam says, “because I think I can help my fellow hikers and perhaps save a life.” After all, “Nobody plans on getting lost. Not even on a short hike.”

lost in the Gorge by Pam Monheimer

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admit it. I was the woman lost in the Gorge. At first I was too embarrassed to talk about this experience. How could this possibly have happened to me?

In the 18 months preceding that January day, I had hiked more than 2,800 miles through Oregon, Washington, France, and Switzerland. For me, getting lost in the Gorge would be like getting lost in my own backyard. I know the Gorge like the back of my hand. I can name all of the mountains, hills, waterfalls, and trails that border highways 84 and 35. The Columbia River Gorge is in my DNA.

A very important Mazama lesson

Right page: The author and Tüz in better hiking conditions.

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I was hiking with my friend, William, a world-class runner and climber with whom I often hike both in the Gorge and on Mt. Hood. It was 34 degrees with a light rain falling. We had a few hours to spend hiking in the Gorge. We started out together in the late morning in a remote area a few miles from Angels Rest. We were in a place I’ve hiked more than a dozen times. William and my Vizsla puppy, Tüz, went running ahead, and we planned to meet back at my car at 2:30 p.m. I was listening to a book on my iPhone and was so engrossed I didn’t realize how much time had passed. When I noted the time, I realized I needed to quickly head back. I cut through the woods, off trail with my compass in hand, to get

back to the main trail that would take me back to my car. After 20 minutes I still hadn’t found any trail. I was in a totally unfamiliar area, and didn’t recognize my surroundings. I was on a very steep slope amid fallen trees and deep brush. The light rain had turned heavier and it was becoming quite windy. I was worried. I knew I couldn’t be very far from a trail, but the changing weather conditions scared me into calling 911. Cell service was so spotty that it took three tries before I connected with the Multnomah County Sheriff ’s office. After describing my location, I emailed and texted my exact coordinates from my GPS at 2:39 p.m. The sheriff assured me help was nearby, telling me, “they had found my car, William, and Tüz, and that the whole world was coming to help find me.” The most important thing I did after making that emergency call was to stay put, a very important Mazama lesson. Search and Rescue had my exact location. I paced and did jumping jacks to stay warm.

No moon powerful enough My situation hit the news quickly,


which prompted friends and family to call, text, and send Facebook messages. The onslaught drained my cellphone battery, and by 3:15 p.m. my phone was dead. Then the famous Gorge gusts blew in. Luckily, I was wearing the correct clothing and boots for the day. I had a waterproof jacket and pants and Gore-Tex lined hiking boots. I was also wearing a down sweater underneath. All of that worked well for the first few hours, but by 4:30 p.m. I was soaked and shivering and darkness was settling in. How long could my rescue take, I wondered? I had given the Sheriff ’s office my coordinates more than two hours ago. I went into survival mode. I dug a hole for shelter next to a large downed tree with my gloved hands, filling it with leaves, small branches, pine needles, and anything else my filthy, frozen hands could carry. I then attempted to build a cover made from larger branches to try to shield myself from

the rain and wind until rescue arrived. I was alone in the ebony forest with only the sound of the wind and rain. I had no fear of being alone; I had passed survival training. Nonetheless, I experienced a few desperate moments where I considered making a run for the trail in the remaining daylight. Had I done so, I fear there might have been a less fortunate ending to my adventure. As I lay in my dugout in the pitch black, no moon powerful enough to shine through the awful inky, rainy, gloom, I realized I did not have all of the “10 Essentials” that should be taken on every hike. The Mazamas had drilled into my head over the past year that those essentials should always be in my pack. Just a few days earlier, I was sitting on the summit of Mount St. Helens with my larger backpack filled with these 10 Essentials. I didn’t think that it was necessary to

repack my smaller pack for a few short hours of hiking, but then again, I hadn’t planned on getting lost either. Thus I had no headlamp, no extra clothing, no waterproof matches, nor any other useful tool that might help me remain safer and warmer until help arrived. All I had was my small daypack with a slowly decreasing amount of water and a lone protein bar. “I am not going to die here.” As I lay in a fetal position in my wet, muddy hole, I hugged the earth for warmth. My teeth were chattering so hard I had to put a cloth between my teeth. At this point, I also had a raging headache. After a while I realized I couldn’t move my curled legs or arms; they were both totally cramped. My mind was playing games with me. I didn’t know if I was awake or asleep. So this was hypothermia, I thought. It had

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I knew I had to move if I were to stay alive. I jumped in place and screamed “I am not going to die here!” Lost in the Gorge, continued from previous page been five hours since I realized I had become lost and placed my 911 calls. Where was the cavalry? I thought something had gone wrong— perhaps the GPS coordinates had been incorrect, there had been a landslide, or worse, a change in plan with daytime rescue. I needed to stay alive until morning so I could get myself out in the daylight. Then I had the realization that I might not make it. I was too cold to cry. I thought about my family and my friends, about all the small stuff I wasted time and worry on, about all the things I never did or said. I truly thought this would be where I would die. I was so miserable, but something inside me refused to give up. Around 7:40 p.m., I mustered all of my strength and balance to stand up. I knew I had to move if I were to stay alive. I jumped in place and screamed “I am not going to die here!” In the distance I saw a faint light. I remembered my GPS

watch had a backlight. I flashed it as I jumped. I screamed “Help!” and “Hello!” I could barely hear myself over the wind and rain. A few minutes later that faint light came closer. I waved my light frantically and the rescuers waved theirs back. It took more than 30 minutes for the five-man search and rescue team to reach me.

The Ten Essentials in every pack In addition to the sheriff ’s “quick response team,” which was comprised of two runners, four teams had been sent to search for me. They had all started at different points. It was the quick response team that found William and Tüz. They ran nearly 15 miles looking for me, and as I later learned, they came within 1.5 city blocks of where I was calling for help. My rescuers went into action, following the same protocols I had learned in my Mazama

Mountaineering First Aid course. I was so relieved and grateful to this group who saved me. They carried the largest packs I’d ever seen. They offered me blankets, dry clothes, water, and food. I was shivering so hard that I couldn’t fathom changing clothes; they insisted and then wrapped me in the blankets. They then had to study maps to figure the safest way out. We went through thick brush and fallen trees, and down a steep slope, and still had to walk a few miles to one of the two vans that had made it to the fallen tree a mile from the trailhead. One of the vans then got stuck in the mud, which added another hour to everyone’s evening. I used the time to get to know this quality group of volunteers who had braved the elements to find me. Some were still in high school. I learned that they had to pay for their own gear. That moment, I made a commitment to make annual donations to Portland Mountain Rescue. We made it back to the Angels Rest parking lot by 11 p.m. I was sick to see it packed to capacity with rescue teams, ambulances, police cars, and four TV news crews. I had caused a lot of people a lot of trouble and worry. I am sorry. I am grateful to those who helped rescue me, and to the Mazamas for providing me with the mountaineering training that kept me alive. William and I went back to that same trail a few days later with the sun shining, a layer of fresh snow dusting the trail, and a GPS unit with my coordinates plugged in to see where I had gone wrong and “get back up on that horse right away.” I was fearful of going off trail again and didn’t want one scary incident to ruin my love of exploring. It was bizarre to see the shelter I had built myself, and understand that I had done the right thing by staying put. I’ve learned to carry orange trail tape for when I want to explore new areas so I can mark my turns. And I always bring my 10 Essentials. I have a set of those important, potentially life-saving items in every backpack I own. I never leave home without them.

The author’s makeshift shelter.

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Mazama Library: A History by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager

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he Mazama Library marked its 100th anniversary in 2015. The history of the Mazama Library offers a unique look into an often overlooked aspect of the Mazamas: their commitment to intellectual growth and historic preservation.

The now famous history of the Mazamas began in the spring of 1894 when William G. Steel dreamt of a new mountain club, composed exclusively of real mountain climbers, to replace the “elevator riding” mountaineers that then made up the Oregon Alpine Club. Steel and a small group of others began quietly planning this new organization. To ensure appropriate membership, it was decided that the group would be inaugurated on the summit of Mt. Hood. Word was spread via newspaper articles, and on July 19, 1894, 155 men and 38 women reached the summit. After weathering an early morning sleet storm, 40 of the original climbers stayed on the summit to officially form the new organization and elect William Steel president. As John D. Scott writes in his authoritative history We Climb High, “Thus from the ashes of the now defunct Oregon Alpine Club was born the Mazamas!” Roughly twenty years later in 1914, the first mention of the Mazama Library appears in the organization’s records. What started as a handful of books donated by founding member Charles H. Sholes has grown over the years. As a

The Mazama Library is a testament to the value that the membership has always placed on their history. It represents a vast wealth of information about mountaineering, Mazama history, and numerous other topics that inspire, inform, and provide historical context to Mazama members. result of further donations and member generosity, the library encompasses not only books, but also a substantial collection of historical documents, photographs, and mountaineering artifacts. In 1915 Mary C. Henthorne was named chair of the Library Committee and de facto librarian. In addition to her work with the Mazamas, Mary was a children’s librarian

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Photo: Martha Darcy.

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Mazama Library, continued from previous page and later worked with the Navy to supply books to naval stations and ships at sea. The first library was situated in the Mazama “clubrooms,” as they were known at the time, in the Northwestern Bank Building located at 621 SW Morrison Street. Early on, the library collection fit within a single, locked bookcase. Control over the collection was so stringent that getting access to books required, in the words of Scott, a “congressional action.” When the Mazamas moved in 1926 to the Pacific Building at 520 SW Yamhill Street, Florence McNeil assumed the librarian role. For eight years, Florence gave the library purpose and direction while adding a collection of maps and expanding its collection of mountaineering book titles. Much to the joy of the membership, the locked case was gone and the books were out in the open with easy access. Florence 28

was followed in 1934 by Don Onthank who, in addition to being an active member of the Mazamas, was also a prolific collector of mountaineering books and records. Don was renowned among the Mazamas for his knowledge of mountaineering and remained active on the Library Committee until 1980. In 1946, Martha Darcy was appointed librarian and set about making the Mazama Library her life’s work. In addition to managing the 800 volume collection, she was the first to organize the existing trove of historical records. When she retired in 1968, the book collection had grown to over 2,100 volumes. In 1957 the Mazamas outgrew their “clubroom” and moved out of downtown and into Northwest Portland, taking up the second floor of an old motion picture supply depot at 909 NW 19th Avenue. For close to fifty years, the library continued

to grow both in scope and in size. With Martha Darcy’s retirement as volunteer librarian in 1968, the management of the Mazamas library was passed to a dedicated group of revolving volunteers for the next 35 years. While membership in the Library Committee fluctuated (some years there were as few as three people), they found time to process and catalog new books, maintain the subscriptions, and keep the library orderly and available to members. In 1970, Vera Dafoe recognized the need for the Mazamas to begin collecting mountaineering artifacts. Of her own accord, she began assembling and organizing a collection of artifacts in her basement due to a lack of space in the 19th Avenue building. In addition to her work as a climb leader and member of the Publications Committee, Vera has, for more than 45 years, worked to assemble, catalog, and manage the Mazamas world class collection of artifacts. The 1980s saw the library reach a low ebb. Faced with declining interest and low involvement, in 1981, the board let it be known that unless substantial changes were made, the Mazama Library would sunset in a year. Gary Beyl rallied a group of concerned members and set about recruiting trained individuals to help stave off the coming demise. Thanks to their efforts, a strong team of trained librarians, archivists, and concerned members was assembled that would help the library not only avoid closure, but go on to expand in ways none could have foreseen. If 1981 was the low point, 1985 marked the library’s turning point. The year began with the library closing for the only time in its history while the clubrooms underwent renovation. In February, the library was


reopened in new and improved quarters in the 19th Avenue building. The library was now a firstclass facility, which would set the tone for the years to come. Barbara Marquam, who joined the Library Committee in 1987, is credited with hiring the first paid librarian, Bob Lockerby, in 1999. Already an 18-year-veteran of the Mazamas, Bob brought his extensive knowledge of mountaineering and the library collection to the position, having already voluntarily cataloged more than 3,000 volumes before being hired. Bob served on both the Library and Climbing Committees and is responsible for the creation of the 100 Year Index to the Mazama Annuals, a full index of everyone who was a member of the organization, and, in collaboration with Virginia Seiser, the creation of two publications on mountaineering libraries and serials. All are constantly used and invaluable resources to the library and the membership. Over the years Bob has advocated tirelessly on behalf of the library for more funding, better facilities, and increased security. Barbara also encouraged the hiring of Sharon Howe, a consulting archivist, to bring additional structure to the growing collection. Barbara helped organize the archives, coordinated volunteers, initiated the Oral History Project, and assisted with the organization’s move from NW 19th Avenue to its current location on SE 43rd Avenue in 2007, among other things. No discussion of the Mazama Library is complete without recognition of the many years of hard work, beginning in 1985, supplied by Jeff Thomas, the organization’s contract photographic and museum collection archivist. Over his 30 years of association, Jeff has worked tirelessly to search out, acquire, catalog, and

preserve historic photographs, unique climbing equipment, and other items of historical value to the Mazamas. Jeff is the author of three Oregon climbing guides and, like Don Onthank, a “walking encyclopedia” of invaluable information on mountaineering lore, climbing history, and Mazama accomplishments. The Mazama Library is a testament to the value that the membership has always placed on their history. It represents a vast wealth of information about mountaineering, Mazama history, and numerous other topics that inspire, inform, and provide historical context to Mazama members. The library would not be possible if not for the countless number of volunteers that over the years have given their most valuable of gifts— the gift of time—and for that the Mazamas will always be grateful. In 1954, Mary Mason wrote that the library offers something of interest to everyone and reminds us that “it is yours to use.” ▶▶ Scott, J. (1969). We Climb High A Chronology of the Mazamas. Portland, OR: Mazamas. ▶▶ Mason, M. (1954). Our Growing Library. Mazamas, 36(13), 58-58.

Clockwise from top left: Mazama Clubrooms, June 24, 1940. The Mazamas first rented space in the Northwestern Bank Building, 1914. Don Onthank. Book plate.

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No Picnic on Mt. Hood by Jerome Leedy, Kirk Newgard, and Brad Noren

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n Felice Benuzzi’s No Picnic on Mount Kenya, Benuzzi and two Italian POWs hatch a plan to escape the confinement of a World War II-era British-controlled civilian POW camp and climb Mt. Kenya. The mountain looms over the camp, just as Mt. Hood looms over Portland, always present, and taunting with the promise of freedom. Eighteen days later, after their escape and climb, they break back into the POW camp and surrender themselves to the British Commandant. They are rewarded with solitary confinement. As with Benuzzi’s adventure, we were a team of three: Jerome Leedy, Kirk Newgard, and Brad Noren. But we didn’t have 18 days. We had two. Our objective was the Sunshine Route on the north side of Mt. Hood. We craved the liberating feeling of breaking out and climbing,

A roped team, without protection, wouldn’t be able to arrest a fall. So, we agreed to observe Rule #1 of climbing: Do not fall.

Brad Noren on the Sunshine Route. Photo: Kirk Newgard.

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before the inevitable return to the tedium of our own camp life—a.k.a., the desk job and the solitary confinement of the cubicle farm.

All three of us had done one of the “easy” routes on Mt. Rainier and didn’t expect the Sunshine Route to be more difficult. But after this climb, with the conditions we encountered, we agreed that the Sunshine Route felt more technically challenging, more remote, and certainly less often climbed. We didn’t see anyone on the north side of the mountain, aside from a couple of all-terrain skiers on the lower part of Cooper Spur. This private climb was a developmental advance for each of us as climbers, facilitated by training we had acquired through our association with the Mazamas. On Saturday morning, we left a car at Timberline Lodge and drove around to the Tilly Jane trailhead. The gate on the road to Tilly Jane/Cloud Cap was still locked, so up the trail we went. From the stone shelter we dropped down the lateral moraine and found a good place to begin our Eliot Glacier crossing, just below the lower ice fall. Our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) instructors


and assistants had taught us how to rope up for glacier travel and how to move efficiently as a team. We roped up and set out onto the glacier. We ascended a ramp in the middle of the lower icefall that lead to the plateau below the upper icefall. Here we found crevasses that were concealed by a recent dump of snow. By the time we were higher on the route, each of us had the experience of punching through a concealed crevasse. We knew that we would encounter crevasses, so when assembling the team, one important criterion was that each had taken the Crevasse Rescue Skill-builder with the Mazamas. Luckily, the crevasses we found were relatively small. The girth of our packs effectively prevented us from dropping below grade. Still, the experience of punching through, with legs dangling, was exhilarating—something not easily simulated in the skill-builder field session. After crossing the Eliot Glacier and some overzealous searching for the best place to camp, we found a snow-free rock

ring at approximately 8,000 feet, near the base of Snow Dome at the southern end of the Langille Crags. Training from the Snow Camping Skill-builder and Kirk’s Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) kicked in. We set up camp and began melting snow for water. Some 15 liters later, we retired early and rested, anticipating an alpine start the next day. Sunday morning we woke at 2 a.m., and were packed-up, roped-up, and on the snow by 3:30 a.m. Small teams don’t always move faster. It was a long slog up Snow Dome. True to the name of the route, we enjoyed a burst of sunshine at dawn. Sunshine always brightens the spirits. We worried that the sun would make the snow too soft too early, but the gusty winds that had kicked up overnight kept everything firm. Here, Jerome’s crossover knowledge from the Mazama Ski Mountaineering course proved invaluable, as he was able to adeptly assess the snow conditions. We came to the conclusion that the high winds might actually

facilitate our success. At the top of Snow Dome, we passed Anderson Rock—named after Andy Anderson, the Hood River Crag Rats’ second Big Squeak. Above Anderson Rock, but below the Coe Glacier bergschrund, we encountered another crevasse field. More punching through. In our pre-trip discussions, we knew that crossing the Coe Glacier bergschrund would be a significant challenge. When we arrived at the edge, we found that there was no easy way across. Rather than traversing far to the right, passing under Horseshoe Rock to join Cathedral Ridge, we saw an opportunity to get around the bergschrund on the left. Because it was already much later in the day than expected, we decided to ascend to the left of Horseshoe Rock. Actually, Jerome decided. The other two had no choice but to follow. This course of action may have been prompted by the rocks that were falling off Horseshoe

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No Picnic, continued from previous page Rock and shooting past. This was the most direct route to the ridge but meant a couple hundred feet of steep snow (the guidebooks say 50 degrees). It may have been greater than that in this low snow year. Before starting this pitch, we unroped, convinced by Kirk’s ICS experience. Pickets would take too long. Ice screws would not have held. A roped team, without protection, wouldn’t be able to arrest a fall. So, we agreed to observe Rule #1 of climbing: Do not fall. Each used a second tool, swinging the picks into the snow. Three solid points at all times. Each climber climbing for himself. This was the crux of the climb and the point at which we were committed to going up and over, rather than retreating. Calves burned, but did not cramp. The steps cut by the leader held, in spite of the sugar snow under the Styrofoam surface layer. The wind gusts increased in their intensity, causing us at times to thrust ourselves into the slope, hoping that the wind would simply wash over us. We were very relieved when we finally reached the safety of Queen’s Chair. Packs off, break time.

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From Queen’s Chair, we gained Cathedral Ridge proper and followed it up to the summit ridge. The winds were high and we were spent. After a brief discussion we decided against going over to the true summit. Our objective had been the Sunshine Route and we had accomplished that. But, of course, the climb was only half over. We downclimbed the Old Chute. We had worried about hitting this section so late in the day, with the potential for rocks and ice showering down, but the high winds (again) kept the snow firm and everything in place. Once down to the Hogsback, we met a volunteer from Portland Mountain Rescue (PMR). He had been collecting samples and taking measurements from the fumaroles. We told him that we had just completed the Sunshine Route. He excitedly shared stories of his climbs on that route. One of his favorite on the mountain, he said. We thanked him for his work on the mountain with PMR. It was amazing to see how the crater area had changed since the new fumaroles emerged. The Old Chute route now skips most of the Hogsback, dropping to the

climber’s left very early and skirting around the fumaroles on the Crater Rock side to Hot Rocks. As we dropped below Crater Rock, the grade lessened. With the objective dangers behind us, all that remained was the long slog back to the Timberline parking lot. The long…stumbling…slog. Ascents of the Sunshine Route are not uncommon, but this climb tested us and we met the test with success. It might not have been possible without the education and training we received with the Mazamas. As Benuzzi and his team found, this mountaineering business was no picnic, but as we broke back into our routines on Monday morning, submitting to the monotony of the work week in exchange for mortgage payments and gear purchases, the memory of the feeling of freedom on the Sunshine Route made the little things fall away.

Clockwise from left: Kirk’s feet near the top of the route. Photo: Kirk Newgard. Kirk and Jerome on the Eliot Glacier. Photo: Brad Noren. Kirk and Jerome at camp. Photo: Brad Noren.


Clockwise from left: Ama Dablam, in Eastern Nepal. Photo: Ritchie Farmer. Liz Crowe on the summit of Middle Sister. Photo: Grant Garrett. Denis Lee after leading up an amazing spire in City of Rocks, Idaho. Photo: Cameron Brown.




Clockwise, from top: Liz Crowe ascending Mt. Stuart. Photo: Grant Garrett. Happy to see the first rays of sunlight after an all night epic on Mt. Jefferson. Photo: Cameron Brown. Mazamas swim team at Colchuk Lake. Photo: Tracy Andrews. Previous page, clockwise, from upper left: Adventurous Young Mazamas at Coyote Wall with Mt. Hood in the distance. Photo: Sรกndor Lau. A child in the Huayhuash Mountains, Peru. Photo: John Leary. Kai Waldron at Colchuck Lake, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington. Photo: Angela Bohlke. Photo: Unnamed Sierra Nevada lake with the Minarets in the distance. Photo: Brenda Smith, DVM.


Rescue in the Gorge Right Place at the Right Time by Sarah Bradham

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n Sunday, May 31, 2015, we set out for a day hike in the Columbia River Gorge. We had a loose plan to start at the Horsetail Falls trailhead, hike up Rock of Ages, and either come back down the Horsetail Falls trailhead and cross Oneonta Creek or take the longer route around Bell Creek. The hike up Rock of Ages was lung-busting as usual, but quickly gave way to the lovely rock arch and views of the river, and the always exciting (okay, somewhat scary) walk across the exposed Devil’s Backbone. Within three miles we were at 2,900 feet and at our first trail intersection.

April Mead revisiting the scene of the accident in July 2015. Photo: Sarah Bradham.

We headed west on the Horsetail Creek trail, crossed a few creeks, and quickly covered the 1.8 miles to the turnoff for Bell Creek. The last time I had been on Bell Creek was to perform some trail work on this much neglected 3.3 mile stretch of trail. We found the trail to be in remarkably good shape, and got to enjoy some beautiful old growth forest. Stopping to count the rings on one downed tree, it seemed as though some of the trees we were looking at were more than 500 years old. Gorgeous! The miles passed and I reveled in the sounds of the forest—the chirping of birds, pika calls, and the drumming of grouse. Getting closer to Triple Falls and the Columbia River Highway, our quiet was interrupted by an increasing number of hikers. Triple Falls is a popular destination for day hikers, and on nice sunny days it tends to be a very well-traveled trail. I always get nervous watching people above the falls. This day was no exception. There was a family with a couple of kids and a dog off-leash standing on a rock right above the falls. All I could think of was what would happen if they slipped. Not wanting to be around

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April continued to call up, “Are they coming? When will they be here?” “They are coming, they are coming soon, you just need to hang on,” Stacy replied. “Don’t call Mom!” April yelled. “I’m not going to call Mom, don’t worry.” Rescue in the Gorge,

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This page: April and Stacy at Horsetail Falls before the fall. Right page: April back on the trail after the rescue. Photo: Stacy Meads.

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to watch someone fall, we quickly hurried on. Half a mile past Triple Falls, a little more than a mile and a half from the car, we encountered a man quickly hiking up the trail. Noting our large packs, he called out, “Do any of you have a rope?” In the lead at this point, I got a sinking feeling in my stomach, “No,” I replied. “What happened?” “A girl slipped off the trail and she can’t get back up.” “How far ahead?” “Not very.” We picked up the pace. We arrived at the fall point, where a small group of people were looking down the slope. A woman—we later learned this was the victim’s sister, Stacy—had a cell phone to her ear and was talking with a 911 dispatcher. We looked down the slope and could just see a girl’s head, and arms outstretched, hanging onto a root. From where we were located it looked as though she was dangling and had nothing but air below her. “April, just hang on,” Stacy called. “You are doing so good. You are strong.” “When are they coming? Are they coming soon? I don’t know how long I can hold on,” she called up to her sister. This is when all of our Mazamas climbing and rescue training kicked in. Being in a group of people that had hiked and trained together, very little communication was required to actually make a plan. Michael dropped

his pack and ran down the trail to see if there was a way to reach her from below. Wim jumped into action and started scouting from above to see if there was a safe way down to her. I busted open my pack to look at what I was carrying that might help with a rescue. What we needed was a rope. What we had was clothing. Adam dug into his pack, and so did Anna-Marie. Bystanders chipped in. We quickly tied together rain jackets, long sleeve shirts, pants—what knot would you choose for this purpose?— to make an improvised rope. We tested each knot after it was tied, pulling hard on the line to make sure we didn’t see any slippage. Wim located what appeared to be a viable way to reach April from the side. We had a big tree up top to anchor the line. Wim headed down about 10 feet to another goodsized tree with a flat spot for safety. He continued to scout the route, dropping a little bit lower. He could spot a path to get to her, but to ensure he didn’t become a victim himself, he waited for the line to be completed. Adam finished it off, re-testing each connection point, and tied it off to the bomber tree—how do you ensure that your bowline is tied properly when it is tied with sleeves?—triple backed it up, and threw the line down to me at the mid-station. Wim began an arm rappel down to April. All the while this was happening Stacy was trying to stay connected to Multnomah County dispatch, but the call kept dropping. The dispatcher

was telling Stacy to get away from the trees—clearly not quite understanding where we were. “I’m surrounded by trees,” she replied, “and I’m not leaving my sister.” April continued to call up, “Are they coming? When will they be here?” “They are coming, they are coming soon, you just need to hang on,” Stacy replied. “Don’t call Mom!” April yelled. “I’m not going to call Mom, don’t worry.” From my stance off to the side and midway down slope, I could see the fear in both of their eyes. April was hanging on with all she had, unsure if the root or her arms would give out, and Stacy wasn’t sure if the scenario had a happy ending. April was visibly shaking, and called out about every 30 to 60 seconds asking when Search and Rescue was coming. There was no way to be sure, but we weren’t feeling confident that they could make it in time. I was pretty sure we were watching a girl fight for her life, and while our team was careful not to put ourselves in harm’s way, we still had to make a judgment call. Would our MacGyvered rope actually hold? It wasn’t going to have to hold vertical weight, as the slope was probably 70 degrees (close to vertical for the last 10 feet), but unlike a real rope that is rated and tested for such purpose we had to hope ours would work as intended. Adam was watching the anchor, and I was watching the knots, and ready to alert to something coming untied.


Still, there was some level of faith we just had to go on. April noticed Wim coming towards her. There was some relief in her eyes. She called out, “What is your name? You are the most amazing man I have ever met. Thank you.” He inched closer and closer, kicking steps, testing the security of the slope, ensuring all the while that he was staying as safe as he possibly could. Never create more victims, no matter how much you want to help. Finally he was parallel to her position. He leaned towards her and managed to loop the “rope” around her waist and secure it to her. She now had some amount of security from a fall. She stopped shaking. Getting over to Wim involved a huge step—even for a girl with long legs—but she trusted what he was telling her, and placed her feet where instructed, and made the step. She now had to make a rising traverse about 15 feet up to the tree where I was stationed. She pulled on the line, kicked her feet in, and clawed her way upwards. Her sister and others were shouting encouragement from the top. When she made it to me, there was enough space that she could sit down, and get the weight off of her arms for the first time since she had fallen. I took her backpack off of her, told her to take deep breaths, and to rest for the final push. Stacy finally broke down. She had held it together and showed amazing composure under pressure. Realizing it was almost over and that April was going to be safe, the emotions finally poured out. Wim made his way back up the line and got into a position above me where he could boost her up the final step. April found her strength and got to her feet, still not letting go of the line. She made her way over to him, and he made a step for her with his bent leg. She stepped up, he

pushed her from below, and Adam and Michael each grabbed one of her arms and pulled her up. She was finally on safe ground. Wim then helped boost me up, and climbed up himself, and we were all back on the trail. The sisters hugged and cried. April was shaky and scratched up, but remarkably unscathed. She sat down, drank some water, and rested. We began the difficult process of untying the clothing. The knots had all held, as had most of the stitching. There was one jacket that had a hole. A white cotton sweatshirt had been the weak link—we found an inch-long rip— but it had held. We disentangled the few items donated by bystanders so they could get on their way. We stuffed the rest of the line into a pack, to be dealt with at the cars. About 10 minutes after April was on safe ground a park ranger arrived on the scene. He asked if she was okay, and put out the call to cancel the ambulance and the Search and Rescue team. April asked if we could walk out with them. She was still feeling shaky and didn’t want to fall again. We gave her a trekking pole to steady herself and started back down the trail. Twenty minutes into our walk out two Search and Rescue guys arrived, and they walked with us to the Horsetail Falls trailhead. At the trailhead we were met by a sheriff ’s deputy. The cumbersome process of official paperwork began. We parted with hugs all around. I shared my contact info with the sister so we could all connect if needed. We had all gone through a gamut of emotions, and we talked on the way back into town, trying to process everything that had happened. A beer, or two, seemed like a great idea.

no easy takeaways: ▶▶ This was a team effort. We were very lucky to have a group of five people—everyone played an important role. Wim was the one on-point and able to reach April, Adam was topside managing the anchor, Anna-Marie was talking with the sister, Michael had scouted the bottom route, and everyone topside was helping to manage people, as quite a large group had gathered. ▶▶ In talking with April after the incident, she responded that she had moved off to the side of the trail to let another party pass. She thinks that she hit a rock with her foot and tripped, or the trail crumbled out from beneath her. She isn’t completely sure. She had a slow fall, which is likely why she didn’t have more injuries. Partway down she caught a branch, but that branch broke and she slid further. Then she managed to grab the root. During the ordeal her left knee was braced against a rock and she had her right toe wedged into earth. That was all that was holding her in place. ▶▶ Michael had scouted the options to reach her from below and didn’t find a viable solution. Below April there was a drop of approximately 100 feet into trees. ▶▶ I was surprised and happy to notice that none of the bystanders were taking photos/video of the situation. ▶▶ I don’t know what April could have done differently in this situation. There is no easy takeaway here. The things we tend to say after reading news stories like these—such as carry a map, always bring extra water, don’t go off trail—none of these apply here. These were the only things we could think of: Don’t get so close to an edge, and use hiking poles for added stability. ▶▶ Stacy did exactly the right thing. She did not have the skills or resources to get down to her sister safely. Had she tried to get to her, she likely would have become a victim herself. Staying on the trail and calling for rescue was the right call in this situation.

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A brief history Youth Achievement at the Mazamas by Mathew Brock, Mazamas Library & Historical Collections Manager

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n the summer of 1958, Ernest “Ernie” Goble was taking a well-deserved break on the saddle between North and Middle Sister. While admiring the majestic view of the Cascades, another climber took refuge on the opposite side of the room-sized rock. Suddenly, the huge rock shifted and started to roll. Ernie’s father, Walter, rushed to grab him and pull him out of danger. Although his father’s quick thinking saved him, the rock rolled by close enough to rip the shoulder on Ernie’s parka. In his six-year quest to climb all of the 16 major peaks in the Northwest, this was the only dangerous situation that young Ernie encountered. He was 13 years old at the time and already an accomplished climber. Ernie began climbing in an era when notable achievements were rarely written about or recognized. While it is possible that he may be one of the youngest, or earliest, to complete all the 16 peaks, it is hard to say with certainty. He started climbing in the mid-1950s and took part in one of the first Mazama classes offered by the then newly created climbing committee. Over the years, as the classes developed and evolved, generations of new climbers like Ernie were introduced to 36

the sport and taught the skills needed to become successful mountaineers. By 1975, interest in engaging Mazama youth reached a new high. As part of the Boy Scouts of America’s Explorer Scouts program, the Mazamas established Explorer Post #901. The nationwide program aimed to get youth outdoors by teaching them skills in mountaineering, as well as water and winter activities. The Explorer Scout committee organized lectures on the philosophy of climbing,

suitable outdoor clothing, and proper nutrition. Rope, snow, and rock skill building classes were offered to provide firsthand experience. In their first year, the Post climbed Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, and Mount St. Helens. The Explorer Post program proved popular with the membership. The program expanded in 1978, and then again in 1981. It fell on hard times in the late 1980s before consolidating and reigniting


as Post 936 in 1993. The end of the 1990s were good years for the Explorer Post; the program’s leadership was motivated, enrollment was high, and their adventures captivated the membership. A few of Post 936’s notable achievements included climbing in New Zealand in 1996, four first ascents in the Canadian Coast Range in 1997, and organizing the 20th Anniversary celebration for the American K2 Expedition in 1998. Around the time of the Explorer Post’s low ebb, a young girl named Sahale Flanagan began her climbing career. Sahale climbed Mt. Hood in 1986 at the age of eight, accompanied by her parents Lath and Mary Jane Flanagan. She became a Mazama in 1987 at age nine. She earned the Guardian Peaks award in 1990, the Seven Oregon Peaks award in 1994, and the 16 Peaks in 1998 at the age of 20. She often climbed with her father and served as an assistant leader on three of their ascents together. The climb report for their threeday climb of Mt. Shasta notes that Sahale acted as climb leader on summit day and did

a “great job leading the six other climbers to the summit.” The year before Sahale achieved her 16 peak goal, another young climber was just getting started. Quentin Carter climbed Old Snowy, his first mountain, when he was just four years old. Quentin’s father, Matthew Carter, got him started hiking early, at age two, and camping overnight by age four. By the time Quentin turned eight, he’d climbed Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mount St. Helens, earning him the Guardian Peaks award in 2003. His three summit attempts on Mt. Jefferson rate as some of his most memorable climbs. Bad weather and an accidental fall involving the climb leader turned back their first two attempts. Quentin finally summited in 2008, his third attempt in three years. At age fourteen, Quentin had earned the Oregon

The Mazamas have a long history of working with youth—from Explorer Post to encouraging kids to climb to the more structured Mazama Families program.

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Clockwise, from left page: Ernie Goble on the approach to Mt. Hood, 1956. Photo: Walter Goble. Explorer Post #859 members on the summit of South Sister, 1980. Photo: Unknown. Sahale Flanagan with her 16 Peak award, 1998. Photo: Rita Maupin. Sahale Flanagan and Margaret Redman at the 1988 Annual Banquet. Photo: Unknown.

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Youth, continued from previous page Cascades award and by age 19 he had achieved the summits of all the 16 major peaks. Long time Mazama climb leader Dick Miller was instrumental in Quentin’s climbing career. Over his 12 year quest to get all 16 peaks, Miller was a teacher, mentor, and friend. One of Quentin’s most treasured mementos of his early climbing is the modified ice ax made for him by Dick. In modifying the full-size SMC axe, Miller cut down the shaft, dulled all the sharp edges, and stamped Quentin’s initials in the head. The Mazamas interest in engaging young mountaineers has changed and expanded as the membership has grown. The Mazama Families Committee, begun in 2013, focuses on getting families outside together. Leaders in the group teach kids the joys of mountaineering in a way that instills a sense of joy and brings them back. They aim to build a community where children and parents learn from mentors and experienced climbers in the organization. The committee currently offers a Families Mountaineering 101 course that teaches kids and adults entry level rock and snow climbing skills. In the

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past year, Mazama Families members have put those skills to work hiking Dog Mountain, skiing Mt. Hood Meadows, and climbing at Smith Rocks, among other events. One of the legacies of getting youth involved with mountaineering is the formation of a lifelong affinity for the sport and the Mazamas. Many of the youngsters that started climbing with the Mazamas as part of the Explorer Post program have stuck with it. The odds are good that many of the young kids in the Mazama Families initiative will go on to be adult climbers. Now in his early 20s, Quentin has aspirations to one day become a climb leader like Dick Miller, his mentor and favorite climber. As for Ernie, after many years away from the sport, on his 68th birthday he climbed Mount St. Helens with his daughter, herself a third-generation Mazama.

Explorer Post #936 members after a first ascent Canadian Coast Range,1997, Photo: Peter Green. Inset: Ernie Goble on the summit to Mt. Stuart, 1960. Photo: Walter Goble


Quentin Carter

Top: Quentin Carter on the Summit of South Sister, 2004. Inset: Quentin Carter on the summit of Mt. Shuksan, 2014, Photos: Matt Carter

Matt Carter first took his son Quentin out hiking at age two, and by four, they were camping. Before starting his 16 peak quest, at age eight on Old Snowy, he’d already explored Yosemite and City of Rocks among others. Like many others, he’d planned on doing Mt. Hood as his first official Mazama climb, but a climbing accident and a helicopter crash on the mountain that season forced a change in plans. They ended up climbing Unicorn Peak instead. His second climb, Mt. Adams, in 2002 was almost his last. During a glissade on the descent, Quentin’s pants filled with snow, and he became hypothermic. Quick work by members of the climbing team got him out of his wet clothes and warmed up. For his fourth Mazama climb, Mt. Hood in 2003, Dick Miller presented Quentin with his custom modified ice ax and crampons. As his climbing career progressed, Quentin’s father insisted that he have advanced training. Besides taking part in Mazamas training, they also took 12 days of intense climbing education in the North Cascades as part of the American Alpine Institute’s Alpine Leadership class. Quentin went on to assist on several of his later summits, including Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan, his 16th peak. 39


Meeting myself at the summit by Craig Karls

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or as long as I can remember, the outdoors have been my friend. Growing up in the St. Johns neighborhood of North Portland in the 70s and 80s, I spent much of my time roaming the woods and meadows of Smith and Bybee Lakes, Hayden Island, and Forest Park—collecting plant specimens and immersing myself in nature. The outdoors provided a welcome respite and temporary sanctuary from a home life that was dysfunctional and sometimes violent.

One of the most memorable events of my childhood occurred on a Sunday morning—May 18, 1980, to be exact. From my front yard, I saw Mount St. Helens erupt in all its glory, burning an indelible mark on my soul. As a young adult, I attended Eastern Oregon University in La Grande and had the privilege of exploring the backcountry of the Blue and Wallowa Mountains during archaeological surveys and geological field trips, as well as on my own. Fast forward to Summer 2014. I was hiking McNeil Point on Mt. Hood with some friends. We continued past the shelter and up the path that runs along the ridgeline. It was a lovely clear day, we were at about 7,100 feet, and we were looking at the top of Mt. Hood. I turned to my friend, Eric Crowley, and said, “You know, I would love to climb to the top of that someday.” He smiled slyly and replied, “I have,” and proceeded to mesmerize me with his stories of climbing Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. Eric must have remembered our conversation from that summer because I received a text message from him the following New Year’s 40

Eve that read, “Howdy—wanted to see if you are at all interested in taking a basic mountaineering course. I am going to sign up for the Mazama basic course.” I began to barrage him with questions and he gave me the link to the Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). I read everything on that link and began exploring everything else on the Mazama website. Saying that I was interested would be an understatement. Eric advised me to go to the BCEP Information Night to learn more. So I did. I was enthralled by the people I saw climbing the rock walls in the auditorium. I had never been rock climbing, never been in a harness, and knew next to nothing about the sport. Yet, something about the spectacle I witnessed called to me. I heard a quiet voice inside me,

When it was my turn to climb the wall, I felt an exhilaration like none other. Getting to the top of the wall, I thought to myself, “Hmm, I think I may have found my sport.” Strangely, I didn’t have much fear of falling.

saying “do this, now is the time, you will grow and discover things about yourself that hitherto were unknown.” I listened to the presentation and watched the slides, becoming more certain that BCEP was the right choice for me. I went straight home and signed up online. I knew that there was no guarantee of being admitted into the program. I was told that demand for BCEP often exceeds the spots available—a fact that was reflected by the standing-room-only crowd at Information Night. I received an email in early February informing me that I had been


The author’s team enjoying some bonding time over a campfire. Photo: Kathleen Sciestl

accepted. I was delighted, but also a little apprehensive. After all, other than hiking, I’d never done any “mountaineering” sports. Also, I tend to have a lot of social anxiety when meeting new people, especially in large groups. Fortunately, my friend Eric was accepted, too, and we were placed on the same BCEP team: Team 21, led by Amy Graham and Patrice Cook. Patrice organized an introductory potluck at her house before the first class, allowing us to get to know one another. There we each received about six feet of climbing rope with which we could begin to learn our knots. Some of the knots were easy to master; others, not so much. We were being “shown the ropes,” so to speak. It was both gratifying and humbling to learn a new skill. A properly tied and dressed knot is a thing of beauty! At home later that evening, my knot-tying practice seemed to take on a meditative quality—Zen and The Art of Knot Tying, if you will. At the first BCEP class, I learned that we were going to be rock climbing at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) that very weekend. I was as excited as a freshman on the first day of high school. Later that week, I dutifully went to the Mountain Shop in Northeast Portland to

buy all the gear I would need to try rock climbing for the first time. Fortunately, there were BCEP assistants at the shop to help me get what I needed and ease me into the world of rock climbing. When our MMC rock session came, I had a beast of a time getting my two prusik slings the correct lengths. Patience and determination came through, though. When it was my turn to climb the wall, I felt an exhilaration like none other. Getting to the top of the wall, I thought to myself, “Hmm, I think I may have found my sport.” Strangely, I didn’t have much fear of falling. Also, I discovered that climbing has a meditative quality. My chattering mind became silent and focused on the task at hand. There was something paradoxically relaxing about it. The biggest fear I had that day was belaying my classmates. I wanted to make certain I was doing everything correct, lest they fall. Our camping and outdoor rock session weekend at Horsethief Butte was the last weekend of March. The weather was excellent and the experience magical, confirming that I had indeed found my sport after 45 years on this beautiful planet. I eagerly went from station to station, climbing again and again. I also

discovered another activity I adore—rappelling! And I discovered that while indoor rock climbing is fun, outdoor rock climbing is a blast. We had our snow weekend in mid April, learning about avalanches, self-arrest, crampon use, roped teams, and pickets. Mountaineering is the perfect team sport because the only one you are competing against is yourself and the climb team is only as strong as its weakest member. Thus it behooves you to help your teammates succeed in any way possible. When it came time for the final exam, I was amazed at how much knowledge and activity had been packed into such a short timeframe. I am now comfortable with the skills that were taught and my BCEP experience has ignited in me a passion to learn as much as I can about mountaineering. I have already taken the Crevasse Rescue Skillbuilder and intend to take additional skillbuilder classes. I see Intermediate Climbing School in my future, as well. I learned a whole lot more from BCEP than just mountaineering skills. I learned more about who I am. I’ve learned to trust others more—life is one big climb and everyone you meet is belaying you in some way. I’ve learned the wisdom of the fool—that

is, having a beginner’s mind in learning a new skill can bring so much wonder and joy into my life. I’ve learned patience—what really matters is the process, not the product. Sometimes you will be able to summit a mountain, sometimes not. Mazama membership requires reaching the summit of a glaciated peak. I summited my first glaciated peak by climbing Mount St. Helens on Mother’s Day. I’ve seen pictures of the summit many times, but nothing compares to being there. The gods of the ancients always lived on a mountaintop; perhaps they were onto something. It is a spiritual experience to be on a summit. I applied for Mazama membership after the Mount St. Helens climb and received my acceptance letter dated May 18, 2015—35 years to the day when I saw it erupt. What strikes me as astonishing is that I didn’t take up this sport much sooner. I would like to thank my BCEP teachers—Amy Graham and Patrice Cook—and all the assistants from the bottom of my heart for having the patience, enthusiasm, knowledge, and judgment needed to get this kid-goat started in mountaineering. To you, I say, “Climb on!” I guarantee you will find yourself at the summit.

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The Revelation Mountains are a small, rugged subrange of the Alaska Range located about 140 miles northwest of Anchorage and about 130 miles southwest of Denali. The principal peaks are granite spires that rise out of relatively lowelevation glacial valleys. The high vertical relief of the Revelations creates a dramatic backdrop for some very challenging climbing conditions. They remain mostly unexplored because the weather is notoriously heinous and the flight to get there is long and expensive. None of this has deterred alpinist Clint Helander, who made his eighth trip to the Revelations with the help of a $1,000 grant from the Mazama Expedition Committee. The objective for his eighth trip? The tallest unnamed peak in the range, known simply as Peak 9,304. “Words cannot describe the beauty of this peak,” Helander said in his grant application. Helander planned to climb the Southwest Buttress of Peak 9304, a 3,500-foot route, in a single push of 24 hours. What follows is his account of the ascent. 42

Emotional Atrophy amid the Revelations by Clint Helander

T

here would be no sleeping on this night. Last evening’s -25 degrees Fahrenheit freeze had given way to warmer temperatures, blown in with a ferocious storm. I knew my climbing partner, Tad McCrea, was also awake, but we said nothing. We just laid there in silent fear and listened. The wind moaned a slow, agonizing cry among the summits and lenticular clouds. Then, like an army of charging demons, it screamed down the valley, gaining momentum and strength as the surrounding walls tightened.

Like counting the growing waves on a shoreline, we began to determine when the biggest of the gusts would hit. Despite our snow walls, they seemed to blow right through us. Our four-season tent would flatten, the fabric stretching and poles creaking. “We’re not going to make it through the night,” I thought. Like a captain talking to his battered ship amidst a tempest, I begged the tent to survive. “Hold strong,” I quietly pleaded. This wasn’t what Tad and I had planned on when we landed under perfect skies the previous day. But now, in the northern heart of Alaska’s Revelation Mountains, we felt alone and adrift. I braced my side of the tent through the most terrifying of the gusts and began stuffing all of my loose belongings in bags. “Should I put my boots on? She’s going to break at any moment.” March’s early morning twilight began to eek through the sagging tent walls. So far, she had weathered the storm. The winds began to ebb, now gusting to perhaps only 80 miles per hour. Our snow walls were gone, the glacier scoured into a shadowy white and gray wasteland. I emerged from the vestibule in full war regalia. We dug all

day, excavating a snow cave under the flat glacier. We couldn’t survive another night of wind like that without it. The brunt of the storm passed, but ceaseless wind followed for another five days. We resigned ourselves to passing the hours in our tent and snow cave, emerging now and then to snatch a few glimpses of our distant prize: the unclimbed monolith labeled Peak 9,304 on our Lime Hills USGS topographic maps. Tad was running out of time—the pilot would be there to pick him up in less than 24 hours—and the wind had yet to subside. We called for a weather update. It would be calm the next day. We awoke at 4 a.m., but the incessant wind persisted. We rolled over and tried to sleep, but the sound of our enemy outside refused to let us kill more hours in slumber. At 11 a.m. the wind finally blew away. We skied out of camp in rapid procession. The south face of Peak 9,304, a mountain I had long referred to as “the Obelisk,” held its triangular form as we approached. A snow-filled chimney held my picks, but threatened to spit me out. My protection far below felt suspect. Sixty meters above,


The author on Emotional Atrophy.

a grainy crack offered a decent spot to anchor in. Tad led a long block of simulclimbing to the base of an ice-streaked headwall. A prow reared out past vertical and the hanging daggers looked almost impossible to climb. The summit was many thousands of feet above us still. We retreated. Tad reluctantly flew out the next day, and in his place John Giraldo arrived, fresh and unbeaten by the storms. We quickly reached our highpoint on the Obelisk. I searched for courage as I confronted the looming ice above. A bad screw penetrated snow and aerated ice, then a few feet higher a good, small cam. “Watch me, John. This is really hard and scary,” I muttered. My tool shuddered and reverberated as it penetrated nominal ice and struck the granite slab underneath. A deep breath and I trusted myself to it. Another swing and a wide stem and I was still moving upward. I swung again, only this time the tool broke through the ice and into air. A two inch crack! Hanging there,

teetering on my loose pick, I excavated the crack and placed a dreamy cam. The crack continued for another fifteen feet of salvation. Seventy meters of difficult climbing continued and I searched for an anchor as the rope came tight. Small cams shifted in odd-shaped cracks, and pins bottomed out in seems. John followed and I studied the anchor while I thought about him on the crux moves. We continued upward for hours in long blocks of simul-climbing. The absent wind seemed strange on our sunburned faces. We approached the summit in the afternoon, high above most of the surrounding Revelation peaks. At the top, I thought back to the stress of the previous week of fighting the endless winds. I pushed the pain of a failing relationship from my mind. Two words came silently to the front of my mind: emotional atrophy. On the summit though, it was a brief moment of long desired tranquility.

Clint Helander started climbing in 2003 and has climbed a variety of alpine routes in Alaska, including an integral ascent of the Moonflower on Mt. Hunter and the third ascent of Mt. Huntington’s Phantom Wall. Yet, he returns to the less explored Revelations every year to seek solitude and adventure. It is those experiences in the true wild that mean the most to him. Over the years, Helander’s trips have culminated in six first ascents and two first ascent routes on mountains that had only seen one prior ascent: • 2008: First ascent of Exodus Peak (8,380 feet) • 2009: First ascent of Ice Pyramid (9,250 feet) • 2011: First ascent of Mt. Mausolus via Mausoleum (4,400 feet, WI5) • 2012: First ascent of Golgotha (8,940 feet) • 2012: First ascent on the South Ridge of the Angel (9,265 feet) • 2013: First ascent of Apocalypse via 4,200-foot West Face (WI5 M5) • 2014: First ascent of West Face of Titanic (3,800 feet, M6 5.8) • 2015: First ascent of the Obelisk (Peak 9,304) via Emotional Atrophy (Grade 4 M6 WI5 A0 3,280’) on the South Face. Clint Helander and John Giraldo, March 22, 2015. 43


Mazama Outings Springtime in Sedona group in Red Rock country. Photo: Susan Saul

SPRINGTIME IN SEDONA March 14–21, 2015 by Susan Saul We went to Sedona to see rust. Iron oxide, a mineral found in abundance in Red Rock Country, colors the 80 million years of sedimentary rock layers in stunning shades of red. Wind and water have worked on the rocks for 275 million years, giving the Sedona, AZ, area breathtaking scenery. Although some 4 million people visit Sedona annually, outing leaders Rex Breunsbach and Marilyn Zigler managed to find hikes among the 300 miles of trails that were for the most part uncrowded. Federally designated wilderness areas, totaling more than 140,000 acres, are in Sedona’s backyard. Our hikes took us to mesa tops with sweeping views, under colorful cliffs and soaring pinnacles, past ancient Native American cliff dwellings, and along creeks meandering through canyons where cottonwood and sycamore trees provided restful shade. At 4,500 feet and with over 300 days of sunshine, we enjoyed mild weather with highs in the 60s and 70s, although temperatures plunged once the sun went down. Clear night skies were filled with stars. Sedona is famous for its vortexes: places 44

filled with spiritual energy where people go to meditate and seek spiritual regeneration. We began our outing with a hike up Boynton Canyon where we made a side trip to the Boynton Vista Vortex near the Kachina Woman rock formation to absorb energy for the week ahead. Other A- and B-level hikes included Doe Mesa, Soldiers Pass-Brins Mesa-Cibola Pass, Munds Wagon-HangoverCowpies, West Fork Oak Creek with 26 stream crossings, Long Canyon, BaldwinHiLine-Slim Shady, Mt. Wilson, Huckaby, and Vultee Arch. On our day off, hikers headed off in a variety of directions: Grand Canyon National Park, Jerome State Historic Park, Montezuma Castle and Tuzigoot National Monuments, and the Sedona boutiques and art galleries. Despite all the colors of rocks and trees, the brightest tones were the blooming wildflowers. Peak wildflower season is March to May and we found about 100 species in bloom. Hiking was the perfect way to see these colorful beauties. ʯʯ Participants: Rex Breunsbach, leader; Marilyn Zigler, assistant leader; Carole Beauclerk, William Dewsnap, Jeanette Dimick, Ursula Edlund, Brian Goldman, Robyn Lee, Christina Ling, Melinda McCoy, Donald McCoy, Sarah McKenzie, Helen McLeod, Patty Pandzik, Beverly Perttu,

Luan Pinson, Cheryl Polan, Linda Prinson, Susan Saul, Maxine Schwartz, Paul Slichter, Tony Spiering, Marilyn Syverson, Kitty Tsoi.

NORTH TO ALASKA March 22-29, 2015 by Tom Bennett Mild weather and clear skies provided the North to Alaska group with beautiful views of the Alaska Range every day; we had one night of decent aurora activity. The 2015 outing was based in the pioneer town of Talkeetna again, halfway between Anchorage and Denali. Winter of 2014-15 was a low snow year for Alaska, so the group hunted for good snow for cross-country skiing. We were rewarded with four worthwhile skiing locations; both Tom Bennett and Nancy Russell were able to ski seven times during the week. The group did the Talkeetna Air Taxi scenic grand flight tour with a glacial landing in the Ruth Gorge on an almost perfectly clear day. Mickey O’Brian, sitting in the co-pilot’s seat, took an excellent flight video of the excursion. At the Mangy Moose Cabin—the group’s base camp in Talkeetna—we hosted


dinners for Roger and Pam Robinson from the Talkeetna Ranger Station and aurora photographer “Aurora Dora” Miller, and enjoyed the engaging dinner conversations. We also explored Talkeetna and relished the many excuses for eating out. Three of the group attended the historical Talkeetna musical play The Fatal Flaw, performed in the

North to Alaska group at Talkeetna Airport in front of DeHavilland Turbine Otter plane that flew them to Denali. From left: Karen Eggimann, Tom Bennett, Nancy Russell, Maida Cummings, John Cummings, Carol Ellis and Michael O’Brien. Photo: Tom Bennett.

packed Sheldon Community Arts Hanger. North to Alaska 2016 will overlap with the start of the Iditarod, with the plan to attend the restart of the race in Willow. ʯʯ Participants: Tom Bennett, leader; Mickey O’Brian, assistant leader; John Cummings, Maida Cummings, Carol Ellis, Karen Eggimann, Nancy Russell.

OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK HIKING June 20–27, 2015 by Richard Getgen It would normally be a gamble to schedule an outing in the mountains in June, but this was not a normal weather year. Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park can host snow drifts into late June, but this year the meadows were green in May. Our week in the Olympics concluded just as the 90-degree days started to burn the mercury in the thermometer. There were fifteen hikes during the week which included: Hurricane Hill (two), Sunrise Ridge (two), Klahhane Ridge, Sol Duc Falls (two), Cape Alava, Deer Ridge, Spruce Railroad Trail, Dungeness River Trail, North Fork Sol Duc River, Aurora Ridge, Dungeness Spit (two), Storm King Mountain, Marymere Falls, and Lake Angeles. The KOA between Sequim and Port Angeles served as base camp for our group. The first hiking day was Father’s Day but the Hurricane Hill group did not have to share the trail or information center with many tourists. The reason for this relative solitude was a car fire several miles down Heart of

Crossing Royal Creek on Dungeness River Trail. Photo: Richard Getgen.

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it to our end point at the Whitewater Trailhead (where we came out the following Thursday). For planning and navigation, Halfmile’s PCT Maps downloaded from the Pacific Crest Trail Association website were most useful. Our camps were: Lower Twin Lake, Little Crater Lake Campground, Warm Springs River, Trooper Spring, Olallie Lake Resort, and Scout Lake in Jefferson Park. While the majority of this backpack is truly a walk in the woods, there were impressive views from Mt. Hood, Olallie Lake, Jefferson Park Ridge, and in Jefferson Park. The weather was absolutely perfect and we all hiked well together… you can’t ask much more than that! ʯʯParticipants: Joe Whittington, leader; David Nelson, assistant leader; Aaron Lee, Michelle Lee, Terry Sherbeck.

the Hills Road; the fire acted like a cork until early afternoon when the line of vehicles ascended the winding road to Hurricane Ridge. Wildflowers and fauna added to the experience. The deer at the main parking area are so accustomed to being fed by tourists that they go after the rocks thrown by the ranger to scare them off and sniff them, in hopes they are from Nabisco. For most of the week, the group enjoyed the view into the interior of the mountain range from the hiking trails. The smoke from the Paradise fire near Quinault was not a factor; the one day there was drizzle, neither group was on a high ridge. ʯʯ Participants: Richard Getgen, leader; Robert Smith, assistant leader; Jackie Alloway, Carole Beauclerk, Rex Breunsbach, Sue Brickey, Ann Brown, Jeanne Clarke, Bill Dewsnap, Michael Earp, Ursula Edlund, Tracey Elliott, Carol Getgen, Shah Iranshad, Carolyn Jenkins, Karl Kratzer, Bonnie Kratzer, Angie Larson, Mary May, Rose McManus, Gisela Piercy, Lu Pinson, Kibbey Rock, Barbara Sack, Maxine Schwartz, Larry Solomon, Pauline Sullivan, Ann Truax, Kitty Tsoi, Joey Zarosinski.

MT. HOOD TO MT. JEFFERSON July 10–16, 2015

by Joe Whittington I have been backpacking the Pacific Crest Trail since the early 1970s and continue to connect, albeit sporadically, uncompleted segments. The most obvious segment to be accomplished last summer was from Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson. Fortunately, four other backpackers thought this would be a worthwhile endeavor and signed onto the Outing. David Nelson, who has gone on many climbs and other harebrained adventures with me, volunteered as assistant leader. The rest of our group included Michelle and Aaron Lee, and Terry Sherbeck. Aaron’s BIG truck worked perfectly for our transportation needs. He drove us to the Timberline Lodge parking lot early Friday morning, July 10, and his son and Dad picked up the truck and shuttled

Top: Hood to Jefferson gang at the start at Timberline: From left: Aaron Lee, Michelle Lee, Dave Nelson, Terry Sherbeck, and the BIG truck. Photo: Joe Whittington. Right: The Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland group gathers at the road sign in front of Eric Hoem’s cousin’s farm (the local, historic farm the group visited). From left: Sue Griffith, Tom Bennett, John Leary, Carmelita Logerwall, Mary Holbert, Sharon Leary, Debi Danielson, Eric Hoem, Paul Steger, Bruce Bagley. Photo: Paul Steger.

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HIKING NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDLAND July 22–August 2, 2015 by Eric Hoem In Norway, they have a word for what we Mazamas love to do. They call savoring time spent in the outdoors “friluftsliv,” which translates as “free air living.” Regardless of the weather, Norwegians go outdoors every day, all year long: hiking in the mountains, cycling, kayaking, snowshoeing, and crosscountry skiing—they have their favorites and they do it all. From July 22 to August 2, 2015, nine participants in “Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland” experienced the passion that


Canadian Rockies Outing at Wilcox Pass in Columbia Icefields; Mt. Assiniboine in background. From left: Pam Rigor, Bob Breivogel, Elke Schoen, Kate Evans, Rosemarie Sweet, David Sweet, John Gerszewski. Photo: Bob Breivogel.

Norwegians have for their outdoor pursuits. Our plans included both coastal and mountain hiking, an optional mountain climb, and a four-day hut-to-hut trek. Unseasonably cold and rainy weather changed some of our plans, but with the help of local outdoors enthusiasts, we achieved the main objectives of the outing and gained first-hand experience of the welcoming nature of Norwegian culture. From our base in the coastal city of Molde, we did two hikes in coastal mountains, one to a headland called Stemshesten and the other to the island of Otøya which rises more than 2,000 feet out of the North Sea. Three members of the outing—Paul Steger, John Leary, and Tom Bennett—climbed Bispen Peak, which stands 3,000 feet above Norway’s interior plateau. With three local climbers, they followed a third and fourth class route of steep rock, with plenty of exposure to hold their attention and fabulous views from the summit. As a capstone, five members completed a four-day, hut-to-hut trek in weather that felt like early season hikes in the Pacific Northwest. Led by local outdoorsman Vidar Halaas, they used the wilderness huts to dry out in the late afternoon, make dinner, and get some sleep. We made good use of “rest” days. After an informal tour of Molde, which like Portland

calls itself “the City of Roses,” our group visited a fisheries museum. We viewed the dramatic Atlantic Highway, where a series of high and graceful bridges link coastal islands. On the day we were hosted at a local historic farm, the owner, along with his family and neighbors, made the occasion into a community event of homemade lunch, music, and tour of restored features, such as an 18th century baking oven and neighborhood grinding mill. The hiking and cultural activities gave us first-hand experience with arguably one of the most sought after outdoor venues in the world, and we all learned something special about Norwegians: Friluftsliv means much more than weekend recreation in the outdoors. In Norway, it is a major component of a meaningful life. Each one of us came home with our own personal meaning of friluftsliv. ʯʯ Participants: Eric Hoem, leader; Paul Steger, assistant leader; Bruce Bagley, Sue Griffith, Debi Danielson, Mary Holbert, John Leary, Sharon Leary, Carmelita Logerwell, Tom Bennett.

CANADIAN ROCKIES OUTING August 8–22, 2015 by Bob Breivogel This outing traveled to the premier parks of the Canadian Rockies. Originally planned as a hiking and climbing outing, no technical climbing was done as we had more hikers than climbers. We met at the Lake Louise tent campground August 9 ( for four nights). The next day we drove a short way to Morraine Lake and hiked up the Valley of the Ten Peaks to Sentinel Pass. August 11 we traveled west 30 miles to Yoho National Park, hiked to Emerald Basin in the morning, and returned to Lake Louise, where we hiked the Plain of Six Glaciers to the Teahouse. We returned to Yoho the next day to hike the spectacular Iceline Trail to Iceline Summit. On August 13, we started the Assiniboine Park backpack, hiking from Bryant Creek trailhead to McBride Camp, with warm clear skies. The following day we hiked from McBride Camp over Assiniboine Pass; it began to rain just as we arrived at Lake Magog. August 15 was showery and cool (with new snow on Mt. Assiniboine), so we did a short day hike to Sunburst, Elizabeth, 47


Skip Smith and Nancy Reynolds hike the last stretch of the 2015 Oregon Coast Trail Outing. Photo: Joe Whittington.

and Cerulean Lakes. The next day four of us hiked from Magog to Marvel Lake camp via Marvel Pass under clearing weather. John, David, and Rosemarie opted to take a $200 helicopter ride back to Bryant trailhead; the rest of us completed the backpack out and met them at Banff Tunnel Mountain Village 2 Campground August 17. The following day we hiked up Tunnel Mountain Trail and visited Cave and Basin Historic Park. On August 19 we drove the Icefields Parkway 30 miles north to Mosquito Creek Campground; that afternoon we spotted three grizzly bears from the Helen Lake Trail. August 20 had us further north, hiking to Wilcox Pass from the Columbia Icefields Campground. The 21st dawned so wet and bitterly cold that we ended up driving to Jasper in a snowstorm; Bob, Pam, and John stayed at the Wapiti campground, the others at motels in Jasper where the outing ended. ʯʯ Participants: Bob Breivogel, leader; Pam Rigor; assistant leader; Kate Evans, John Gerszewski, Elke Schoen, David Sweet, Rosemarie Sweet.

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OREGON COAST TRAIL HIKING August 10–16, 2015 by Joe Whittington The Oregon Coast Trail extends for 382 miles from the South Jetty of the Columbia River to the California border. I had previously hiked the section from the Columbia River to Gleneden, so that was a good place to start. Our end point was the North Jetty at Florence. Basecamp for our hardy group of 13 was South Beach State Park just south of Newport. A lot of planning and pre-outing scouting enabled us to set up seven days of hiking segments with shuttles to deliver and retrieve all of the hikers. Participants were welcome to hike as many or few days as they wished. We had as many as nine hikers on two days and were down to three on the final, very windy segment. Assistant leader Skip Smith, Nancy Reynolds, and I hiked all seven days. In total, we hiked about 50 miles, mostly on the beach. We also toured three lighthouses, climbed up and over Capes Perpetua and Heceta, and walked along Highway 101 from Seal Rock to Quail Street. I plan to lead another Oregon Coast Trail Outing next summer, hiking another 50 miles or so south from Florence.

ʯʯ Participants: Joe Whittington, leader; Skip Smith; assistant leader; Kathleene Adams, Kathy Burns, Michael Earp, Carolyn Jenkins, Rose McManus, Nancy Reynolds, Barbara Sack, Bonnie Smith, Kitty Tsoi, Jodi Wacenske, Beth Westbrook.

NORTHBOUND ON THE JOHN MUIR TRAIL August 27–September 10, 2015 by Karen Suher & John Long Our group of six headed to the Sierras at the end of August to experience the entire length of the John Muir Trail as “Northbounders.” Leader Gary Bishop had tried but was unable to secure a permit southbound out of Yosemite Valley. Following assistant leader Darin Richardson’s suggestion, Gary was able to get an entry permit coming in from the south end via Cottonwood Pass, farther south than the normal John Muir Trail entry through Whitney Portal. (Once you have an entry permit and are on the trail you are good for the entire length.) Four of us flew down to Reno and then shuttled to Lone Pine where we met up with Del and Lindsey who drove their own car. A good portion of the drive down was through a thick haze of smoke from wildfires, giving us a sense of foreboding of what was to


come. However, the next morning was clear, the jagged line of the Sierras rising to the west against a deep blue sky, as we rode up to Horseshoe Meadows Campground (10,000 feet). Over the next 13 days we hiked approximately 240 miles with 46,000 to 48,000 feet of elevation gain. We averaged about 20 miles per day, a few a little longer and two shorter around our halfway resupply point at Muir Trail Ranch. We were a wide range of ages­—30 to 67—and trekking experience, but made a cohesive team and maintained a consistently fast pace. Our second day was possibly the easiest, climbing to the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,505 feet) with only daypacks. Gary set a steady but sustainable pace and there were no issues with the altitude. We had stunning views all around but smoke was rolling into the valleys to the north and west. Smoke started to surround us the next day as we labored up to Forester Pass (13,180 feet); passing into the valley to the north, we descended into an eerie gloom. As we made camp, the sun was a huge orange globe and its reflection set the surface of the nearby stream on fire. Miraculously

the next morning was clear and cold—a pattern repeated over a number of days with variations, depending on which way the wind was blowing. We heard that many hikers had dropped off the trail due to the smoke (there were some trail closures to the west where the Rough fire was centered) or were hunkering down in their tents for the afternoons. We all agreed that we were not going to be defeated, or even discouraged, by this challenge. A number of us tried using a damp handkerchief over the nose and mouth and looked like roving trail bandits! Without the smoke the weather was ideal: clear blue skies, temperatures down to 32 to 40 degrees at night and warming into the 70s during the day. We had no rain, lightning, or high winds! Highlights of the trip were picturesque Foxtail pines rising out of the never-ending granite slabs, the incredible engineering and rock work of the trails leading up and over spectacular passes every day, washing our grimy feet and legs in cold, clear lakes and streams; a black bear wandering through camp, soaking in the hot springs at Muir Trail Ranch; burgers, beer, and milkshakes at Red’s Meadow; Lindsey’s

space blanket serenades; and meeting fellow hikers from all over the world! On our last day we descended 6,000 feet into Yosemite Valley. It was hot, hazy and filled with people. We looked forward to hot showers and a good meal, but were already thinking about coming back to linger a little longer in the pristine meadows, swim in more of the lakes, and explore the lake basins and beckoning side trails. Thank you to our leaders Gary Bishop and Darin Richardson for getting us on the trail and keeping us moving to the end! ʯʯ Participants: Gary Bishop, leader; Darin Richardson, assistant leader; John Long, Del Profitt, Lindsey Putnam, Karen Suher.

Darin Richardson in front of Garnet Lake. Mt. Ritter and Banner Peak in background. Photo: Karen Suher.

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TECHNICAL SLOT CANYONEERING October 14–18, 2015 by Vaqas Malik On October 14, our group of eight Mazamas set up base camp at a primitive campground next to Irish Canyon in North Wash, Utah. North Wash and neighboring areas Robber Roost and San Rafael Swell in southern Utah have some of the best slot canyons in the world. These long, narrow, dark and deep cracks in Navajo sandstone backcountry pose intriguing challenges and reward explorers with experiences of a mystical hidden world, in a stunning desert landscape. Technical slot canyoneering requires skill in 5th class climbing, rock rescue, desert navigation, and wilderness first aid, in addition to specific canyoneering techniques for building anchors and rappelling. The tight, narrow canyons can become so skinny that the only direction one can go is sideways. Add some exposure to that sustained and substantial length of crack feature, and the task demands considerably more physical and mental endurance. Another twist to canyoneering is dealing with weather and route conditions in slot canyons; flash floods can be triggered by thunderstorms a hundred miles away. Recent water flow through a canyon can drastically alter the state of rappelling anchors (which are often built around rocks and boulders), and a certain level of water accumulation in the slots can make canyoneering a wet, cold ordeal. Contrary to normal alpine or climbing routes, in canyoneering, once you are committed there is no point of return; climbing back up high, smooth, featureless sandstone walls is not an option. Couple this no-return-option with unknown route conditions and canyoneering is a risky sport that requires more attention to mitigating the risk. There was no better place than the Mazamas for assembling a team of likeminded thrill seekers to go on this adventure; we had Advanced Rock and Intermediate Climbing School-trained members, and climbers with prior slot canyoneering experience. The first route we attempted was the left fork of Leprechaun Canyon. After a couple of miles hiking in, we found that the anchor where one enters the slot was completely washed out in a recent flash flood. Our option was to bring rocks from at least a few

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hundred yards away to rebuild the anchor. Given the time of day and the effort needed to rebuild, we decided to hike back and explore the canyon upstream from its finish point. Leprechaun is among the most scenic canyons in southern Utah. Its wide open subway-set-upon-its-end tunnel formation makes it a popular day hike. An interesting trivia note: some scenes from the movie 127 Hours were filmed in Leprechaun. The next day, well fed and rested, we took up a slot canyoneering route in Arsenic Canyon Martin Gillen climbing in Blarney in the Poison Spring Canyon in North Wash, Utah. Canyon area. At the Photo: Vaqas Malik beginning of the technical section there were three cannot ignore Goblin Valley State Park, a consecutive rappels of a combined total fascinating landscape with thousands of drop of more than 180 feet; from there, it hoodoo rock formations called goblins. We was lots of down climbing, slot navigation took on the only technical outing in the park and short rappels. As the name suggested, requiring gear, a 160-foot free air rappel into the canyon was deadly beautiful inside, a big hollow chamber called Goblin Lair. with its narrows and small chambers. One The crux was finding the start of the rappel particular section, Cork Screw, was a tight through a complex maze of goblins. slot swirls down couple of turns into a hollow With thunderstorms forecast for the last chamber. The route took most of the day. two days of the outing, we traveled to Moab On the hike back to the trailhead, there was for canyoneering in Arches National Park, the bonus of walking past a fantastic natural where the canyons are open and situated rock arch. This is the land of Road Runner high up on buttes, making flash floods a and Wile E. Coyote and it is littered with non-factor. We did U-Turn canyon in one beautiful rock monuments. The only town in of the most scenic areas of the park; the the area, Hanksville, is about 30 miles from nature of U-turn’s technical route makes it Irish Canyon Campground. Hanksville has a great outing away from the crowd. The Blondies, the perfect joint for cold drinks route involves climbing up onto the top of and fast food after a long, tiring day of desert the monument complex and then rappelling adventure. down through the canyon in a spectacular We decided to do one of the forks in Blarney setting. We ended the outing with a delightful Canyon the next day; the trailhead was just and scenic hike to Utah’s most recognizable a short walk from our campground. Blarney landmark—Delicate Arch—a fitting end to a Canyon offers short rappels but has plenty fun and adventurous outing. of action in tight slots and lots of down ʯʯ Participants: Vaqas Malik, leader, climbing. For the many short drops, we used Alexander Smirnov, assistant leader; techniques like sequencing, spotting, and Ankush Varma; Greg Clark, Patrice Cook, the meat anchor: rappelling off your team Dana Gardner, Martin Gillen, Brad Hupy. members. While staying in this part of Utah you


committee reports

A team of Adventurous Young Mazamas enjoying a lovely day at Paradise Park. Photo: Karin Godin.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) by Matt Reeder It’s been a very busy and very transformative year for the Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM). In 2014 we decided to change our name to “20s and 30s Mazamas,” but this name proved to be divisive and unpopular. Consequently, we recently voted to revert back to our old name—Adventurous Young Mazamas. We’ve had a great deal of turnover on the committee as well. Beth Copeland, Jessica Lackey, Daniel Mick, and Colleen Sinsky all stepped down from their committee roles and we added Mike Kacmar and Sandor Lau to the committee. As a result, we are currently a bit understaffed and are actively working to recruit new committee members. AYM has seen similar turnover in hike leaders. While we have had a few longtime hike leaders step down from leading, we have also seen many new hike leaders step up to lead a variety of exciting new trips. First and foremost is Sandor Lau, who moved to Portland

▲▲ denotes subcommittees

to become a hike leader and committee member for AYM. Mike Kacmar took BCEP, became a hike leader, and then a committee member all within the span of a year. We are grateful for their contributions! Last but not least, our adoption of Meetup as an avenue to gain participants has been tremendously successful, as we now have over 2,200 members on our Meetup site and hundreds of regular participants. In short, it’s been a tremendously satisfying and successful year for AYM and we hope the next year brings just as much satisfaction and success. ʯʯ Committee members: Matt Reeder, AYM Committee chair; Keith Dechant, Mike Kacmar, Sandor Lau.

CRITICAL INCIDENT STRESS MANAGEMENT (CISM) by Marina Wynton The Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) Committee is a group of trained peers and mental health professionals tasked with providing support to Mazama members who

have experienced accidents and are dealing with trauma as a result. The committee was formed in 1992 as a result of an accident on Mt. Shuksan, recognizing the importance of providing emotional support for those affected by a traumatic incident. In October 2014, at the request of Conrad and Jenni Lowe Anker, three CISM team members—Katie Foehl, Drew Prochniak, and Marina Wynton— traveled to Kathmandu and the Khumbu region to meet with families and individuals who lost family members in the April 2014 avalanche in the Khumbu Ice Fall on Mt. Everest. The trip was documented in the January 2015 Mazama Bulletin. In addition Katie Foehl and Marina Wynton received special recognition from the International Critical Incident Stress Foundation (ICISF) for their article on the trip in the ICISF journal. Karen Vernier and Marina Wynton will be returning again this year to check in with the families they met last year and meet with additional families who lost loved ones in the avalanche on Mt. Everest after the devastating earthquake on April 25, 2015. In all, 19 people were killed in the avalanche, making April 25, 2015, the deadliest day on the mountain in history. CISM provided debriefings to seven different groups this past year, including Basic Climbing Education Program, Intermediate Climbing School, Mountaineering First Aid, Ski Mountaineering, Cross Country, and others to get the word out about CISM service and value of debriefing in moving past trauma. The CISM Committee became official members of the ICISF, affording the team and the Mazamas with special benefits and international recognition. The CISM team has been added to the local on-call list in the event of a tragic or traumatic event. CISM conducts annual team trainings and provides each team member with initial group and peer training certified by the ICISF. Carol Gross from the local Red Cross provided team training on Psychological First Aid. Nancy Nixon (licensed mental health professional 51


specializing in trauma), provided a day-long team workshop with a review of debriefing in general and a mock debriefing. ʯʯ Committee members: Marina Wynton, chair; Greg Scott, vice chair; Jim Farley*, Lonnie Feather, Sharon Flegal*, Katie Foehl, Mary Green, Annie McCartney, Drew Prochniak*, Sandy Ramirez*, Cyndy Rutto*, Noelle Savatta*, Karen Vernier*. ʯʯ *Licensed Mental Health Professional.

Greer, Michael Harris, Joan Hayse, Gerald Itkin, Lynn Kitagawa, Karl Kratzer, Jay Leavens, Sarah Linden, Meg Linza, John Maroney, Larry Mastin, Tony Murczek, Don Nearhood, Patricia Orlinski, Gisela Piercy, Alan Proffitt, Tim Ragan, Fenella Robinson, Miriam Rosenthal, Rick Schmidt, Joan Sears, Mark Shafer, Tanya Sharratt, H. Joe Story, William Sullivan, Raymond Thygesen, Kathleen Welland, Jim Whittaker, Kermit Williams, Lawrence Woelfer, and Don Zeck.

CLASSICS

NEW 50-YEAR MEMBERS (MEMBERS SINCE 1966) Owen and Ruth Bentley, Eric Burbano, Nicholas Clinch, Terry Cone, Jon Dickinson, Charles Edgar, Wolf Fahrenbach, Kenneth Guenther, Ted Haller, Kathleen Hersh, Marshall HillTanquist, Gregg Hoffman, Carol Hult, Robert Hungerford, Donald Lange, Greg Leo, Edward and Malcolm McAninch, Thomas McCormack, Ray Mosser, Gene Newcomer, James Palmer, Frances Prouse, Michael Proust, Richard Shook, Allison Smith, Larry Stadler, William Wells, William West, and Barry Wright. Congratulations, new members! ʯʯ Committee members: Rose Marie Gilbert, chair; Dick Miller, Darlene Nelson, Lanning Russell.

by Rose Marie Gilbert, Dick Miller, and Lanning Russell After restarting the Old Timers Committee and renaming it Classic Mazamas, we had a number of social events this year, including our annual holiday party at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC), the 4th of July potluck at Dick and Jane Miller’s, and our September lunch at the lodge. We also had potlucks before some Wednesday program meetings at the MMC. Our in-town walks and tours included Powell’s Books, Alpenrose Dairy, the Oregon Heritage Rail Center, Ladd’s Addition, Cooper Mountain, Tickle Creek, the Linnton Trail, Laurelhurst’s heritage trees, Lake Oswego, and Northwest Alpacas and Oakwood Gardens. In addition, hikes in the Gorge included Dog Mountain, Catherine Creek, Tom, Dick, and Harry Mountain, and the MultnomahWahkeena Loop. NEW 25-YEAR MEMBERS (MEMBERS SINCE 1991) David Anderson, Gretchen Baller, Ken Barker, Anita Bieker, Edna Borders, Julie and Richard Bronder, Rebecca Bruns, Richard Caldwell, Dan Clark, Joanne Dalsass, Don Erickson, Lucretia Fisher, Louise Frewing, Richard Getgen, Sally

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CLIMBING by Bill McLoughlin In our 2014 report we stated that the Climbing Committee had transitioned from the team responsible for running the various climbing schools to a service organization focused on climb leaders. As of October 2015, that new role is substantially defined and the Climbing Committee is proceeding on our new mission. This year Mazamas took a significant step and engaged Alex Kosseff, of the Outdoor Safety Institute (OSI), to review and evaluate our current training, education programs, and standards. Due to the critical role of climb leaders to the Mazamas, leader standards and continuing education were the focus of the initial analysis. The subsequent OSI report is now being reviewed, evaluated, and discussed by the Climbing Committee, associated committees, and staff. The report states that the standards, practices, curriculum, execution, and quality of instruction sets the standard for volunteer organizations and rivals professional organizations. There are areas for improvement, but our base is solid.

A Basic Climbing Education Program team enjoying good weather on Mt. Hood. Photo: Benjamin Grandy.


The goal for 2015 is to utilize the Kosseff report to revise and update climb leader continuing education and to make the content relevant and compelling. The Climbing Committee is currently considering the report and suggested next steps. The process will require collaboration with the Education Committee and the associated class subcommittees, Mountain First Aid, Trail Trips, Risk Management, and Families 101. The anticipated impact of the project on climb leaders, and leadership in general, touches all aspects of the Mazamas. The current “state of leadership” is solid and getting stronger. As of the October 2015 Leadership Development Report, the Climbing Committee had promoted ten provisional leaders to climb leaders, promoted five candidates to provisional leader, and accepted nine candidates into Leadership Development. The Climbing Committee has begun consideration of increasing the number of climb categories. Discussion is in progress and the concept is to have options such as rock only, late season C climbs, and associated leader standards certifications. In 2014 and 2015 there were initiatives to adapt to climbing as an evolving sport. In 2014 the first adaptation was the Trail Trips summit hikes program. In 2015 the Climbing Committee cooperated with the Families Committee to develop their program. Recently, the Climbing Committee had Rooster Rock added to the online scheduler and is considering adding Smith Rock. Other cragging options may be considered, but it is a project in progress. Going into 2016 the Climbing Committee is full strength with a full agenda and the basis for progress has been established with significant results expected in 2016. ʯʯ Committee members: Bill McLoughlin, chair; Larry Beck, Charles Blanke, Justin Brady, Lisa Brady, George Cummings, Eileen Kiely, Walter Keutel, Lynne Pedersen, Ted Slupesky, Doug Wilson.

A team of Mazamas assisting with tree planting as part of the Conservation Committee’s restoration efforts.

CONSERVATION by Alicia Imbody Over the last year the Conservation Committee has been active advocating for conservation policy, awarding and administering grants to conservation partners, and engaging and educating our membership and community on important environmental issues in the following ways: CONSERVATION POLICY The committee worked with local and national coalitions, land managers, and public land management agencies to develop advocacy positions that support Mazama values and interests. We continued opposing coal trains and barges in the Gorge, resisted attempts at state takeovers of federal lands, and weighed in on a couple of wilderness additions. AMICUS CURIAE POSITION Because of our unique position and expertise in passive recreational usage on the public lands on the south side of Mt. Hood, we wrote an Amicus Curiae brief on a pending court matter regarding future planning and recreational usage here. A decision on our participation is currently pending. CONSERVATION GRANTS For the 2015 grants cycle we approved the distribution of $27,000 in grant funds for a dozen key conservation partners. This amount represented a 50 percent increase over last year, and was achieved

by supplementing general budget grant funding with the two endowments, Oberteuffer and Ellis. Partners receiving funding were: Bark, Cascadia Wildlands, Crag Law Center, Deschutes River Alliance, Friends of Mt. Hood, Gifford Pinchot Task Force, Hells Canyon Preservation Council, Oregon Natural Desert Association, Oregon Wild, Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility, Sandy River Watershed Council, and Walama Restoration Project. OUTREACH AND EDUCATION The committee and volunteers both organized and participated in the fall and spring tree planting events in the Mt. Hood National Forest, assisted staff in surveying the membership for their attitudes about conservation, represented Mazamas at the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs, participated in a climber steward program at Yosemite, and again supported “Kids for Conservation” and PEAK (Promoting Environmental Awareness in Kids) youth outreach initiatives. The Conservation Committee meetings are open to the membership and we invite attendance by anyone who is considering joining the committee’s work or is just interested in learning about current activities of the committee. ʯʯ Committee members: Alicia Imbody, chair; Mitch Auerbach, Tom Bard, Barry Buchanan, Steven Couch, Walter Keutel, Mason Purdy, Jennifer Sacklin, Barbara Wilson, Christine Yankel.

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EDUCATION by Marty Scott The Education Committee consists of the Education Core Committee and the Full Education Committee, made up of the chairs of each of the schools. One of the critical tasks of the Education Committee is to hold the annual scheduling meeting in May where subcommittee chairs come together to lay out their schedules for the upcoming year. This meeting provides an opportunity to identify conflicts of dates, locations, and resources and to work together to resolve those conflicts. After the completion of this meeting and validation of the schedule, dates are transferred to the Mazama master calendar. During the 2014-2015 season, the Education Committee, with assistance from the members of the subcommittees, continued to offer skill-builders that were mirror topics covered by our climbing classes such as Wilderness Navigation, Crevasse Rescue, Rock Anchors, Introduction to Belaying, and Beginner Ice Climbing. New skill-builders in 2015 included Wilderness Navigation with Smart Phone GPS and Mountain Running. In addition, this was the first full year of Family Mountaineering. Again this year, the Education Committee offered Instructor Training Class (ITC) to Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) instructors. An adapted version of the course was made available to climb leaders at the Fall Leader Update offered by the Climbing Committee. During the 2014-2015 season, the Education Committee continued to work with the Climbing Committee to finalize the Scope and Sequence document for Advanced Rock (AR) and Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI). Additional work will be required to complete this task. The committee also provided an Info Night for interested parties to learn more about the Education Committee and encourage folks to consider membership. 2015 was the last year that Marty Scott served as chair of the committee. After three years of leadership she has turned the position over to Andrew Bodien. ʯʯ Committee members: Marty Scott, chair; Andrew Bodien, Ted Light, Daniel Mick, Doug Pratt, Paul Steger. 54

Elisabeth Bowers climbing in Johnston Canyon, Banff National Park. Photo: Heather Campbell.

▲▲ ADVANCED ROCK (AR) by Nate Mullen The Advanced Rock Course continues to provide high quality instruction and training that enables graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs on various types of vertical rock, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine routes. Run entirely by dedicated volunteers, the course focuses on gear placement, anchor building, lead climbing, high-angle rescue, mental and physical preparation, and trip planning and execution. This year approximately 50 volunteers helped with the class. The class ran from the beginning of March through the end of May. It consisted of a kickoff meeting, 12 three-hour lectures with supervised, hands-on skills practice, 14 days of field sessions, a nine-day private climbing trip to City of Rocks, Idaho, and a nineday work/climb volunteer stewardship trip to Tuolumne Meadows, California in late summer. The class continues to be quite competitive: 24 students were chosen from a pool of 55 applicants, with priority given to Mazama members. The following students graduated: David Aerne, Patrick Bak, Laura Bax, Tyler Bax, Justin Brady, Brett Cournoyer, Brenden

Dell, Stephen Hirai, Eric Kennedy, Ronald Kravitz, Kyle Kruger, Kirstin Labudda, Denis Lee, Linda Mark, Bridget Martin, Carmen Nale, Shane O’Hara, Jorgen Rufner, Alexander Smirnov, Kevin Vandemore, Ania Wiktorowicz, Robin Wilburn, and April Wolstencroft. ʯʯ Subommittee members: Nate Mullen, lead coordinator; Rayce Boucher, lecture coordinator; Phil Hunter, student coordinator; Hye Kwon, student coordinator; Micah Mayes, field session and trip coordinator; Chris Simmons, field instructor and assistants coordinator; Ally Skeen, field session and trip coordinator; Jon Skeen, field instructor and assistants coordinator; and Steph Spence, field session and trip coordinator.

▲▲ ADVANCED SNOW & ICE (ASI) by Steve Heikkila In 2015 the Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI) Committee successfully transitioned from a lead coordinator instructional model to a fully collaborative, committee-coordinated model. The course curriculum was divided into several modules. Two to three committee members were given


responsibility for each module, such as developing lecture materials, conducting lectures, and planning and managing the weekend field session. The new model has proven to be very successful thus far. By distributing responsibility and effort among the entire committee membership, it encourages broader knowledge sharing and reduces the likelihood of volunteer burnout. Following the committee’s fundraising effort last year, we continued to provide support for the construction and completion of the new ice and mixed climbing wall in Holman Auditorium. Committee members continue to support the Portland Alpine Festival by managing climbing clinics. Finally, and most importantly, we had six students successfully complete the 2015 ASI course. Receding glaciers continue to make field session access a challenge. This year we worked on both the White River and Eliot Glaciers on Mt. Hood. We also made good use of the new ice wall at the MMC. ʯʯ Subcommittee members: Steve Heikkila, ASI Committee chair; Elizabeth Bowers, Lisa Brady, Keith Campbell, Derek Castonguay, Andrew Duncan, Jason Lee, Nate Mullen, Hannah Seebach, Chris Simmons, Stephanie Spence, Jed Stasch.

▲▲ BASIC CLIMBING EDUCATION PROGRAM (BCEP) by Chris Kruell Snowfall in the Cascades was underwhelming last winter, but in contrast, the 2015 Basic Climbing Education Program was in high demand. Kicking off with a very full MMC house at the January information session, we had 299 applicants for the spring BCEP class, 55 percent of whom were Mazama members, and the majority of whom had friends refer them to the class. Thirtyfour climb leaders stepped up to lead and co-lead a total of 22 teams, so we were able to include 260 students, one of the larger classes in recent memory. In addition to the climb leaders, we had well over 200 volunteer instructors, creating a village of 500 people that came together for seven weeks to continue the 65-year tradition of the Mazama

involvement in developing basic climbing skills. As in years past, these 22 teams dispatched themselves all over the region to hike, practice in the snow (despite early worries, we eventually did get enough of the white stuff at Timberline to hold snow sessions), and learn how to become more comfortable on outdoor rock. Students have long come to the BCEP class with backpacking and hiking experience; we’re seeing a reflection of the growing popularity of rock gyms, as many students are also joining the class already more than exposed to rock climbing. With the BCEP curriculum having been formally defined last year, based on the Scope and Sequence document delivered by the Climb and Education Committees, the primary focus of this year’s committee was to maintain continuity in delivering the program. With continuity, though, came some slight changes, with an eye toward improvement. The Student Handbook was revised into distinct modules that clearly identified the knowledge to be gained, the resources available, and components to the skills to be learned— all while better organizing and clarifying the material and eliminating redundancy. Another modification involved gear needed for the class. Students are now required to purchase their own climbing helmets. Not only did this ensure that people would know the history of the helmets protecting their heads, but now teams had a little more latitude in being able to spontaneously practice rappelling, for example, while out on a conditioning hike. The instructional season began with the instructor training clinic (ITC), a half-day workshop that took place the weekend prior to our first lecture in early March. Attendees of the ITC consistently give the workshop high marks for its value in helping them understand different learning styles to be aware of when teaching hands-on skills to adults. As planning for the spring 2015 class began, the BCEP Committee voted to formally administer a summer BCEP session, which took place in June 2015. Various summer session trials had taken place over the previous three summers and this transition to running the program under the auspices of the BCEP Committee helps ensure continuity in

our basic climbing instruction. This past summer’s session included 18 students in a compressed schedule and culminated in a weekend of climbing in the Tatoosh. ʯʯ Subcommittee Members: Chris Kruell, coordinator, Matt Blecharz, assistant coordinator; Phil Baird, April Berlin, Laura Guderyahn, Jeff Jackson, Kirstin Labudda, Daniel Mick, Scott Osbron, Virginia Tarango, Darrell Weston.

▲▲ FIRST AID by Justin Colquhoun While prevention is the most important first aid skill, we know that injuries can and do occur while in the mountains. This summer, some of our recent Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) graduates put their new skills to the test and were able to render effective aid to fellow climbers during serious incidents on Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Shuksan, and Three Fingered Jack. During the 2014–2015 cycle MFA had 74 students newly complete training and 36 people re-certify. Based on participant feedback, the committee reviewed, revised, and developed new breakout scenarios. Our simulated injury/makeup kit was also replaced and expanded. For the coming year we will again offer fall and winter MFA sessions along with a separate December recertification course. CPR remains very popular. We believe that using an online format for a portion of the class offers increased flexibility for attendance. For the future, we need to grow our pool of qualified CPR instructors. In the coming year we are excited to support the Basic Climbing Education Program’s (BCEP’s) first aid lecture. Recruiting and retaining volunteers with both the desire and professional wilderness training to instruct our course remains a major challenge. To this end, we have at least three new members who are wilderness qualified and are being mentored to become full instructors. Committee funds were also allocated to subsidize the recertification costs of two veteran instructors. Opportunities exist to subsidize the training of others who wish to instruct for our course. The committee is deeply grateful to our cadre of more than 40 volunteer skill checkers. We simply could not provide 55


our classes without these dedicated individuals. My deep thanks, too, for the hard work and dedication of our committee and instructors. ʯʯ Subcommittee/Instructors: Justin Colquhoun, chair; April Berlin, Lisa Burton, Kim Edger, Ardel Frick, Nicole Gaines, Shane Garling, Sarah Holmes, Tommy Norwood, Ryan O’Connell, Long Ong, Janette Pipkin, Steve Polzel, Sarah Root, Brandon Schwartz, Benjamin Vincent.

▲▲ INTERMEDIATE CLIMBING SCHOOL (ICS) by Dan Gerbus In this class year, the ICS committee implemented a number of changes to the class to improve the educational quality and execution of the course. We admitted 41 students and 40 graduated, which included returning students from the previous year. The work of the committee was driven by formal student feedback collected in previous years that Victor Galotti summarized. The committee’s work is summarized below, but does not reflect all of the contributions from each member. Ania Wiktorowicz and Dana Tofell managed student affairs and social media. To improve communication with the students and volunteer instructors, Ted Slupesky created a class website on Google Sites. This site served as a single communication point that housed all information for the class. This site format has since been replicated in other Mazama classes. Jay Satak, with assistance from April Wolstencroft and Tom Baughman, spearheaded the creation of detailed instructor handouts for field sessions that outlined goals and included recommendations on scenarios. Instructor handouts were provided during the sessions and improved the field session education quality. Many instructors reported feeling more confident in teaching due to the handout. Less instructor to instructor variation was also observed. Field sessions focused on fundamental skills were reformatted into skill-focused 56

stations. Students were instructed to move through all stations and revisit any skill station where they did not feel confident. This reduced the quantity of student complaints regarding not getting through the skills, and spending too much time with skills they know. In effect, this approach put more ownership of the education in the individual student’s control. Robin Wilcox began development of a comprehensive student course manual outlining these skills to improve knowledge retention. To simplify data entry for the skills test at the end of the class, Matt Blecharz converted the final written exam to an online version and incorporated the field test scoring into a Google form where those instructors with smart devices could enter results. Both were successful in reducing overhead in data entry. However the field entry was sporadic due to device reception limitations. ʯʯ Subommittee members: Dan Gerbus, chair; Tom Baughman, Matt Blecharz, Victor Galotti, Jay Satak, Ted Slupesky, Dana Tofell, Ania Wiktorowicz, Robin Wilcox, April Wolstencroft.

▲▲ NORDIC by Carol Lane The Nordic Ski School enrollment was 73 students during 2014-2015 ski season. A total of eight classes were offered thanks to the efforts of eight lead instructors and 13 assistants and alternate assistants. The committee continues to utilize information gathered from our Student and Instructor Evaluations, and this year we decided to start the classes later in January per many requests, as well as low snow conditions. The modifications we made in dividing our beginner classes (“never skied before” and “novice”) were very successful and we will continue to do so in the future. In addition to the beginner levels we also offered: Intermediate, Advanced, and Nordic Downhill (Telemark) skiing. Although classes officially ended by the second week of February, some of our instructors attempted to offer alternate class dates later in the season. Unfortunately, it was difficult to predict more than a day or two in advance if there would be enough snow on the

trails. There really isn’t any way to say it nicely: this was a dismal snow season. In spite of the weather, most of the instructors and students managed to get in at least two lessons and they took the poor conditions “in stride!” Our informal volunteer exchange with the Oregon Nordic Club (ONC), primarily spearheaded by Jodi Wacenske and Ann Truax, is ongoing. We continue to rely heavily on ONC volunteers for our Assistant Instructor numbers, which allows us to provide additional support and backup to our lead instructors, especially those with larger classes. We continue to encourage students to join the ONC and participate in ONC tours. ʯʯ Subommittee Members: Carol Lane, chair; Ed Conyngham, Doug Couch, Mike Faden, Carl Lamb, Byron Rendar, Jodi Wacenske, Ed Wortman.

EXPEDITION by Ron Fridell One of the goals of the Expedition Committee this year was to help expand the footprint of the Mazamas in the climbing world. Toward this goal, we increased this year’s grant budget and will increase it incrementally over the next few years. This, along with the addition of the Bob Wilson Expedition Grants, should be a big step toward the association of the Mazama name with explorations around the world. We also plan to offer “live your dream” type grants to encourage Mazama members to gain experience leading to bigger expeditions in the future. 2015 Mazama Expedition Grants were awarded for expeditions to the following regions of the world: Explorations in Alaska’s Revelation Mountains; Yellowstone ice explorations; unclimbed 3,000-foot faces in the Avellano Valley, Patagonia, Chile; Southwest Ridge of Alaska’s Peak 11,300; Mt. Huntington, Harvard Route at Tokositna Glacier, Alaska; and Tordrillo Mountains, Alaska. 2015 Bob Wilson Expedition Grant was awarded for an expedition to Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre—Patagonia, Argentina. This expedition will be departing in December. The Expedition Committee taught the following skill-builder classes: Snow Camping with 12 students attending; two


Kids enjoying a rest at Balch Creek during a Families hike. Photo: Bob Murphy

Crevasse Rescue classes with 56 students attending. Our third class was cancelled due to lack of snow. ʯʯ Committee members: Ron Fridell, chair; Eric Brainich, Matt Kramer, Thomas Nancarrow, Darrell Weston.

FAMILIES by Bob Murphy Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) completed its inaugural year with 42 students graduating. These students included 27 children ages 7–14 and 15 adults. In addition we had 16 parent instructors and over a dozen other volunteer instructors come out to evening and weekend sessions that helped make this class a success. Children and adults were instructed side-by-side in basic rock and snow climbing, rope work, backpacking, navigation, first aid, and trip planning. Our field sessions took us to Horsethief Butte for rock climbing skills, Mt. Tabor for navigation skills, and the slopes of Mt. Hood for snow climbing and camping. Developing a new class from scratch took a great deal of effort. The FM101 Committee would like to thank all of the behind the scenes volunteers including; Families Committee, Education Committee, Climbing Committee, Risk Management Committee, Mazama office staff, and Executive Council for the hard work and support of a developing program. We were excited to see that new families had started to inquire about next year’s class before this class had ended.

The FM101 Committee plans to continue to improve processes and work towards institutionalizing the class curriculum in the 2015–2016 program year. ʯʯ Committee members: Bob Murphy, coordinator; Justin Rotherham, assistant coordinator; Craig Martin, Andrea McKee.

GOVERNING DOCUMENTS by John Rettig We are now in our second year of a four-year schedule to review and update all of our policies and procedures. These are formally controlled documents, generated by various committees, reviewed by the Governing Documents Committee, and approved by Executive Council. The main body of effort was updating our Employee Handbook, which at 21 pages would not have seemed as intense a project as it turned out to be. However, extensive updates and rewrites were necessary to stay current with today’s employment practices, and this resulted in a seven-month project that was completed in June. Our level of staffing and diversity of workforce dictated we dedicate no less attention to the task. We encountered periodic interruptions to review either new policies and procedures, or incorporate interim updates to current ones that were offschedule. In this category were Staff Authority, Age Requirements, Inclement Weather and Wildfire Policy, and Rescue Insurance Policy. These reviews did push out some planned review of others

that were on our schedule, and we simply acknowledged the impact and noted that with the Mazamas, as in most organizations, exceptions can become the norm. Our longer term plan dictates that we get through these reviews by September 2016, but we may actually be able to extend this deadline into 2017 because this entire year had been reserved for bylaws changes, which we may not require. Many thanks are due all of the committee members, who put in long, hard hours. ʯʯCommittee members: John Rettig, chair; Bob Breivogel, Matt Carter, Sue Griffith, Alicia Imbody, Jonathan Skeen. Bronson Potter, Executive Council Liaison.

LODGE by Bob Stayton Mazama Lodge had an active year. The Lodge Committee’s objective is to maintain and improve Mazama Lodge as an asset used to further the mission of the Mazamas. Lodge improvements included a new pellet stove in the lower level; two large double pane windows on the main floor; a new ramp to the west end of the south deck to move firewood more easily; and three new air vents in the kitchen to reduce the negative pressure caused by the kitchen exhaust fan. The new stove provided increased comfort in the area during the Round the Mountain weekend. Lodge events and activities included a sold-out von Trapp dinner and concert in August with about 150 attendees, the 35th anniversary celebration of the Mount St. Helens eruption in May, Winter Family Day in March, Chuck Wagon Weekend in July, Running Camp in August, Round the Mountain on Labor Day weekend, Basic Climbing Education Program, Mountaineering First Aid, several weddings, outdoor school groups from eight schools, Multnomah Education Service District’s 5th grade Science Program, and the Teen Program from YMCA Camp Collins. Due to the lack of snow, several ski camps that usually stay at the Lodge in August were 57


cancelled. Other users were able to book in those dates so there was no significant income loss. Capital projects include the winter parking project, which has been a major objective for several years. The hope was that construction would begin this year. The Forest Service has suggested major revisions to our original proposal. Our effort will continue, but at a slower pace. The Forest Service has few resources to allocate to this due to a huge fire season expense and prior projects on their agenda. The Lodge Committee has refocused on other capital improvements. Areas that will be addressed are: additional bathroom/shower facilities; improved lighting and décor in the existing bathrooms; electrical and LED lighting upgrades throughout the building; structural repairs and upgrades to exterior stairs and support columns; a firewood storage facility; new caretaker cabin; kitchen remodel; and upgraded mattresses and furniture. Priorities will be established based on cost/benefit results. In each case design and plans must be agreed upon, costs quoted, and funding approved before proceeding. ʯʯ Committee members: Bob Stayton, chair; Lisa Cenotto, Paul Del Vecchio, Dyanne Foster, Brook Harris, Julia Haykin, Michael Kipley, Wayne Lincoln, Nicole Peltz, Marie Quarles, James Van Lente, Adam Zielinski.

NOMINATING by Matt Carter The current structure of the Nominating Committee was authorized by members in 2012. This replaced an ad-hoc structure with one that is consistent with best practices and capable of supporting the Mazama mission going forward. The primary mission of the Nominating Committee since the inception in 2012 is to identify the critical skills needed for the Executive Council (EC) and recruit candidates who address those skills. The first step was to identify the skills needed. The team researched other similar organizations and met with EC members and staff to produce a top ten list of skills for EC. A priority list was developed. The committee then recruited five candidates 58

for the 2015 election. At the submission deadline we had two candidates withdraw. A candidate who initially turned down the offer to be a candidate entered the election as a self-nominated candidate. The committee struggled to find Mazama records to identify candidates. Working with the Executive Director we believe that next year and beyond we’ll have much-improved resources. Nevertheless, for the first time we have a candidate list for three years to address the critical finance skills set. We continue to make progress in adapting and delivering an independent, structured, and robust nomination process. Mazama members can help by filling out surveys and other information requests from the organization. If you know of a member with life skills you think would be useful on Executive Council, please let the Nominating Committee know. ʯʯ Committee members: Matt Carter, chair; Larry Beck, Keith Campbell, Mike Chacon, Lis Cooper, Zack Cross, Ann Griffin, Alicia Imbody, Aimee Pedretti, Pam Rechel.

▶▶ Canadian Rockies Hiking and Climbing—Led by Bob Breivogel, assisted by Pam Rigor ▶▶ John Muir Trail Backpack—Led by Gary Bishop, assisted by Darin Richardson ▶▶ Slot Canyon Exploration in SW Utah—Led by Vaqas Malik, assisted by Alexander Smirnov For the coming year our primary objectives are continuing work to improve the sign-up process, documenting Outings Committee Policies and Procedures, expanding the number of outings offered and the number of participants by taking advantage of promotion opportunities, and supporting outing leaders in outing planning and execution. ʯʯ Committee members: Joe Whittington, chair; Jamie Anderson, Sherry Bourdin, Bob Breivogel, Sue Dimin, Dyanne Foster, Dean Land, Leigh Schwarz, Sandra Volk.

OUTREACH by Gary Ballou

OUTINGS by Joe Whittington The Outings Committee is focused on being a resource for adventurous leaders and group members exploring the world. This past year, our dedicated committee members worked to make the following 2015 outings as successful as possible: ▶▶ Kilimanjaro—Led by Paul Steger, assisted by Eric Hoem ▶▶ Hiking in Norway’s Western Fjordland—Led by Eric Hoem, assisted by Paul Steger ▶▶ Olympics National Park Hiking—Led by Richard Getgen, assisted by Robert Smith ▶▶ Spring in Sedona—Led by Rex Breunsbach, assisted by Marilyn Zigler ▶▶ Chamonix-Mt. Blanc Climbing—Led by Lee Davis, assisted by Lisa Brady ▶▶ Oregon Coast Trail Hiking—Led by Joe Whittington, assisted by Skip Smith ▶▶ Mt. Hood to Mt. Jefferson Backpacking—Led by Joe Whittington, assisted by Dave Nelson ▶▶ North to Alaska­—Led by Tom Bennett, assisted by Michael O’Brian

The Outreach Committee had a productive 2015 and was able to get the message out to the public at various outreach events. We’ve had volunteers at events ranging from an informal presentation on Himalayan climbing to a middle school class, to full-on pop-up tent and table with giveaways at BaseCamp, Sunday Parkways, and the Portland Alpine Fest. In all, we created tabling opportunities for 25 new and returning volunteers, expanding our group of interested people to almost 20. 2016 promises to be busier still, as word gets out and we have more recurring tabling opportunities with local groups and vendors. Discovery Night has been moved to May 2016, to accommodate our ground-up restructuring. ʯʯ Committee members: Gary Ballou, chair; Pranava Alekal, Matt Blecharz, Brendan Dell, Adam Hunter, Nathan Keene, Brian Klump, Mike Levis, Annie McCartney, Josh Mitchell, Nicole Peltz, Sanman Rokade, Suresh Singh, Adonay Solleiro


PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL by Alicia Imbody The Portland Alpine Festival (PAF) keeps getting bigger and better, bolstered by the incredible energy of the Portland climbing community! This year the PAF was a huge success, and I am pleased to report we clearly met our budget and exceeded our programmatic goals! There was a 60 percent increase in revenue overall that allowed us to cover all of our costs and raise thousands of dollars for worthy causes, including the Mazama Expedition and Research Grant Funds, the Ama Dablam Initiative, Mazama Stewardship and Advocacy programs, and the Friends of Hyalite. Over 150 people participated in daytime clinics and seminars, and almost 1,000 attended the evening events. Another 115 participated in the Ice Comp or Celebration of Trails events on Saturday, for a 30 percent increase in overall attendance from 2015. Based on initial feedback we estimate over half of the new attendees were nonmembers and potential new members. With eight community partners and 35 total sponsors, we saw a 94 percent increase in sponsorship supporting the event! All these metrics show us that PAF continues to be a great way for the Mazamas to expand our presence in the community and help fulfill our mission of sharing our love of the mountains with everyone.

Todd Torres, dressed as PAF-man during the Portland Ice Comp, took home first prize in the comp. Photo: Jacob Raab.

Pulling off a successful festival that scaled up almost 60 percent compared to 2015 required an inspiring team effort from volunteers including the 20 members of the PAF committee and countless other volunteers who helped out during the festival week. These volunteers worked with staff, local partners, sponsors, vendors, and contractors to pull off what Peter McConkie of Liberty Mountain Sports and Grivel (our lead sponsor) called “the most dialed trade show or climbing festival we’ve ever attended.” The PAF team worked throughout the year to organize the logistics necessary to bring athletes from all over the country and design a series of clinics and presentations to appeal to our diverse membership and the broader community. ʯʯ Committee Members: Alicia Imbody, chair; Laura Bax, Sharon Birchfield, Justin Brady, Heather Campbell, Candi Cook, Ben Grandy, Jeremy Lubkin, Karin Mullendorff, Kristie Perry, Jacob Raab, Tim Scott, Jon Skeen, Charles Stillwell, Ania Wiktorowicz. Sojo Hendrix, Executive Council Liaison. Staff Lead: Sarah Bradham.

PROGRAMS by John Leary The Programs Committee presented 25 shows from October 2014 through April 2015. We were treated to

adventures in 14 countries and five continents covering foreign travel, desert hiking, skiing, backpacking, mountaineering, sea kayaking, and scientific and environmental issues. There were shows presenting snow leopard research, soloing El Capitan, through-hiking the Appalachian Trail, skiing in and culture of North Korea, and a movie on the first all African-American ascent of Denali. We were shown an African gorilla safari, learned how to travel in Patagonia on a budget, and where to find the best trails in Eastern Oregon. We were, as always, taken on exciting climbs and treks around the world. Our programs were attended by over 1,500 people averaging 70 attendees per show, with donations totaling $1,262. Our three most-attended programs were Erin Saver’s “Appalachian Trail,” John Leary’s “Yosemite, John Muir Trail, Mt. Whitney, and The Enchantments,” and Bill Sullivan’s “Eastern Oregon.” The 2015-2016 season began in October. Presenters include Mazamas, a Forest Service Ranger, artists, filmmakers, authors, tour guides, and adventurers. We are looking forward to another great year of cultural immersion, beauty, and thrills. ʯʯ Committee members: John Leary, chair; Nancy Bentley, Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neil.

PUBLICATIONS by Kristie Perry After receiving the organization’s newly adopted strategic plan, the Mazama Publications Committee engaged fellow Mazama member Tom Nelson to facilitate a committee-specific strategic planning workshop. In close collaboration with Lee Davis and Sarah Bradham, the committee examined two main issues during the course of the workshop: (1) How to improve work product in the near and long term; and (2) How to organize our work to support the organization’s new strategic plan. From this, committee members identified and launched a number of pilot programs designed to help the organization reach the goals and objectives set for the next three years.

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The pilot programs include the following: ▶▶ A new production schedule and process for the Bulletin, which allows for additional content development, editing, and proofreading. ▶▶ Guest editors for each Bulletin issue who help procure content relevant to the issue. ▶▶ More themed Bulletin issues, which help support ad sales, and therefore, help offset production costs. ▶▶ Larger Bulletin issues and more frequent use of color. ▶▶ Bulletin content that appeals to a wider range of readers (beginning hiker to expedition leader). ▶▶ Transitioning the Mazama Directory from paper to electronic for 2016. Members will be able to download and print a PDF version off the Directory. Five copies of the Directory will be printed for the Mazama Library for archival purposes. Members will always be able to find the most current membership information online in the “members only” section of the Mazama website. This information is updated monthly. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual will transition to an online publication. The front half of the book will include 12 to 13 “best of ” articles from the previous year of Mazama Bulletins, along with numerous photos. The back half will be the “Year-in-Review” insert. Members will have the option to purchase a printed copy of the revamped Mazama Annual through a print-on-demand provider. Five copies will be printed for the Mazama Library for archival purposes. ʯʯ Committee members: Kristie Perry, chair; Bob Breivogel, Rick Craycraft, Catherine Diaz, Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Jack Grauer, Sue Griffith, Barry Maletzky, Pam Monheimer, Lacy Turner.

RESEARCH by Tom Bennett The Research Committee received a total of 25 proposals ( four standard grants, 19 graduate student grants, one undergraduate student grant, and one youth grant) for the 2015 grant cycle and the committee recommended funding six (24 percent) of them. These six were 60

approved by Executive Council. The total dollar amount awarded this year was just under $15,000. ▶▶ Dr. David Wallin, Western Washington University, “Evaluation of Mountain Goat Population Augmentation Scenarios in the Washington Cascades.” ▶▶ Eddy Cartaya, National Speleological Society/Oregon High Desert Grotto, “The Mt. Rainier Fumarole Cave Project.” ▶▶ Trevor Bloom, Western Washington University, “Global Warming on Fire: Potential Consequences of Heightened Fire Activity on the Future of High Elevation Vegetation.” ▶▶ Barbara Gass, University of British Columbia, “Pining for Pines: Can Needle Traits Help Conserve High Elevation Ecosystems?” ▶▶ Carly Wickhem, Central Washington University, “Testing Forage Selection of the American Pika (Ochotona princeps) to Advise Plant Restoration Plans for Connectivity Corridors in the Washington Cascades.” ▶▶ Rachel Wilson, University of British Columbia, “Are Traits Predictive of Range Shifts of Plants in the North Cascades?” ʯʯ Committee members: Tom Bennett and Molly Schmitz, co-chairs; Terrence Conlon, David Dalton, Frank Granshaw, Steve Hinkle, Barry Maletzky, Robert McGown, Bradley Noren, Ralph Shuping, Lynn Weigand.

STRATEGIC PLANNING by Paul Steger Throughout the year members of the Strategic Plan Committee (SPC) have dealt with updating the strategic plan (SP) in a more reader-friendly format. This has been a continuation from the previous year with our Executive Director, Lee Davis, taking the initiative to reformat. A continuing issue is the lack of SP presence on our website. Nothing appears other than our vision, mission, and core values. Additional SP sections will not appear until the current reformatting and communication plans are ready. Staff member Sarah Bradham was requested to develop a communication

plan to be used with our various communities. An initial attempt at this development took place during the winter with a potluck composed of committee chairs, Executive Council members, and staff. This project is on hold until the SP reformat is complete. Members of the Executive Council along with Kati Mayfield took the initiative to create a new core value labeled “Respect.” This value has been added to the original seven core values accepted by the 2011 Executive Council. This core value states: “As Mazamas, we believe in the inherent value of our fellow Mazamas, of our volunteers, and of members of the community. An open, trusting, and inclusive environment is essential to promoting our mission and values.” We continue discussion around tracking organizational and committee progress in meeting SP goals and outcomes. This effort has led to suggestions of changes to committee Executive Council reports as well as a general system to measure progress. If reporting forms are created we suggest they consist of at least two components: operations and projects. Leader members of the Family Committee believed that their committee should be designated in the expanded section of the new SP, which was accepted and submitted to the Executive Council through our liaison. With the chance of hiring a retired fellow/coordinator/consultant to provide leadership and support in our moving forward with utilizing an organizational SP, a job description was created and a Request for Proposal (RFP) was developed. During the July 2015 meeting it was decided that the SPC would go on hiatus until October during which time an RFP would be written and a consultant hired to provide organizing and formatting support. The Executive Council set aside the RFP for later. The following recommendation was submitted to the Executive Council during the spring: Following continued analysis of our current strategic plan and its component development during the next few years (expanding, enhancing, and exploring projects and operations), members of the Strategic Plan Committee recognize that our organization needs to increase revenue. Such an increase could include a change


The Mazamas Foundation

A team of hikers at Cape Horn in Washington. Photo: Jim Selby

in the dues or their structure, annual fundraising event similar to OPB or All Classical semi-annual requests for funds, or an increase in cost of classes. However, the last option may interfere with our efforts at increasing diversity. ʯʯ Committee members: Paul Steger, chair; Bob Breivogel, Sara Carroll, Patrice Cook, Sarah Lewins, Doug Wilson.

TRAIL TRIPS by Regis Krug The Trail Trips Committee (TTC) made a major effort to improve offered activities: snowshoe trips, winter urban hikes, backpacking, and hiking medleys. We increased snowshoe trip listings and involved new leaders, but the lack of snow sabotaged this effort. Regis Krug held a hike leader clinic and backpacking clinic to encourage new leaders. The Winter Urban Hike program was especially active this year, with more offerings and triple the revenues of the previous year. There were two backpacking trips this year, and the committee will be working to increase these in the coming year. The hiking medley program initiated last year by Rex Breunsbach near Mount St. Helens was successfully repeated, with similar programs run by Jesse Beauchemin in the Mackenzie Pass area and by Ray Sheldon in the North Oregon Coast area. The committee developed a first aid class for hike leaders aimed at better preparing leaders for potential issues

by Patrice Cook on hikes. Meg Linza headed this effort and is the instructor. The class utilizes the American Heart Association basic course and supplements it with skills/ testing modules directed specifically toward hike leader needs. A pilot was held in August and a second pilot took place on October 7, 2015. Costs are similar to basic first aid courses, with the goal of better prepared leaders. We are developing a Leader Training Program to improve the training of TTC leaders. Modules are slated for completion in October and TTC anticipates formally adopting the program and implementing it during the fall. Regis Krug reorganized our Leader Manual to make it easier to use. Round the Mountain was led successfully by Rex Breunsbach and Marilyn Zigler with 12 leaders and 49 hikers. Hike Leader Appreciation Night was attended in May by over 50 percent of the active leaders with raffle prizes valued at over $1,900 (prizes were donated by various businesses and individuals). Meg Linza chaired the Used Equipment Sale, which raised $14,890 ($2,078 going to Mazamas). TTC Revenues ran slightly higher than last year (9.2 percent), and the number of non-ramble hikers was up 9 percent, but there was a 10 percent decline in the total number of hikers. ʯʯ Committee memebers: Regis Krug and Terry Lawson, co-chairs; Rob Erikson (data support), Meg Linza, Brett Nair, Barry O’Mahony, Leslie Shotola, Adonay Solleiro, Bill Stein, Marilyn Zigler.

Founded in 1997, the Mazamas Foundation is a legally separate entity with a fully independent board of directors from the Mazamas and a mission to support the Mazamas. Along with ownership of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the Foundation manages an endowment and permanently restricted funds to generate income and preserve assets. Last year, the Foundation entered into a three-year, $717,000 grant agreement with the Mazamas to support strategic initiatives. This year, the Foundation has worked with the Mazamas to monitor and manage risk with these projects. The Foundation Board has continued analysis on best management of funds, including how to best balance between annual support through a perpetual endowment and funding for unique opportunities. Finally, the Foundation has been investigating the feasibility of executing the purchase option on a piece of property at Smith Rock State Park. We recently received verbal notification of an incoming estate gift from the Ralph Bunnell estate for roughly $50,000 and encourage all of you to consider the Mazamas and the Foundation in your wills. Overall, the assets of the Mazamas Foundation remain strong at over $4.7 million in total. ʯʯ Committee members: Patrice Cook, president; Tom Bard, Dan Crisp, Terry Donahe, Gerry Itkin, Preston Corless, and Brian Lawrence.

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Executive Director’s Annual Report by Lee Davis

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verall, 2015 was a year of growth and learning for the Mazamas. Revenue from core programs and operations grew, as did class participation and overall engagement in activities and events. Our facilities are being used more than ever, and we ended the year in a strong financial position. Last but not least, membership exceeded 3,500 for the first time in our history! 2015 was the first full year of work on our new strategic plan. The plan is focused on a series of projects that are designed to reinvent the Mazamas program service model to become modern, scalable, and relevant to a broader community. Our top priorities in this first year were to complete needs assessments (research) on the Leadership Development, Information Technology (IT), and Stewardship and Advocacy projects. We also set out to build a sustainable youth outreach program for 5th graders at Mazama Lodge, the Mazama Mountain Science School, and train our staff in development work to responsibly raise funds on an annual basis and take excellent care of our donors and community partners.

2014–2015 HIGHLIGHTS LEADERSHIP DEVELOPMENT We engaged the Outdoor Safety Institute to look at our climb leadership and certification programs to recommend changes and improvements. Working primarily with Alex Kosseff, the report was completed and presented to the Climbing Committee and the Executive Council (EC) in August. The report recommended refining and adding flexibility to our leader training programs, adding a mentorship program, and creating varied leadership classifications. INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SYSTEMS We made solid progress again this year with our IT systems. We contracted with a regional IT firm, OMBU, to complete a needs assessment for our information systems. Through interviews, surveys, listening, and feedback sessions organized by Sarah Bradham, OMBU was able to create a comprehensive list of our data and feature needs. We then sent out requests for proposals and received several bids for the build phase of the project. The overall project budget and long-term costs came in 62

higher than originally anticipated. As we closed out the fiscal year, staff and the treasurer recommended that we not start the project until evaluating our options and confirming the availability of full funding for the project. We anticipate resolving these issues in coordination with the contractors and the Mazamas Foundation in order to start the project in the spring of 2016. YOUTH OUTREACH In partnership with the Outdoor School, Friends of Outdoor School, Portland Public Schools, and the Gray Family Foundation, the Mazamas launched a youth outreach program for 5th graders at Mazama Lodge. The program was a strong success, with 100 5th graders attending the program in February. A promotional video was produced and the program has now been branded the Mazama Mountain Science School. The goal next year is to more than double the program and to begin looking at facility improvements for the lodge that would both benefit the outdoor school program and general Mazama use. STEWARDSHIP AND ADVOCACY Adam Baylor utilized his graduate school final project to complete a thorough evaluation of the Mazamas stewardship, conservation, access, and advocacy work. Adam presented a conceptual framework and project plan to the board in August and will be initiating this work in the year ahead. We also worked to expand on-the-ground stewardship work and build initial policy agendas for conservation and recreation access. A highlight of our advocacy work is our

formal role on the Outdoor Access Working Group (OAWG) which met four times this last year. The OAWG is an informal national coalition of nearly every group that facilitates organized activities or education on public lands in America. It includes, Scouting, YMCA, NOLS, Outward Bound, the professional guiding industry, the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA), the Outdoor Alliance, Americas Outdoors, REI, park concessionaires, and all of the major mountain clubs. The group’s primary focus is to change the basic purpose of public land to outdoor recreation, as opposed to resource extraction. Initial projects for the group include reform of permitting and fee structures for organized groups, revision of federal liability requirements, and modernization of information systems and data collection for outdoor recreation. Additionally, we are working with the Wilderness Society, the OIA, Senator Ron Wyden’s office, and Travel Oregon on initiatives to improve the permitting process specifically with the United States Forest Service (USFS). I attended two listening sessions with Senator Wyden and Rep. Earl Blumenauer in July; the Mazamas had a formal seat at the table at these events where we directly promoted our advocacy priorities to the legislature. These conversations have resulted in strong congressional support at the federal level on local issues such as moving the Cooper Spur land swap forward and broad support for modernization and renewal of FLREMA—the federal act that authorizes permitting and fees on public lands. Adam Baylor has also worked with partners on federal land grab issues as well as wildfire funding issues that negatively impact more than 55 percent of the USFS budget.


FACILITIES Work on improving the safety and accessibility of winter parking for Mazama Lodge continued this year. The environmental analysis process for the project with the USFS and forthcoming discussion resulted in shifting the probable location of the parking lot up to the lodge driveway to minimize environmental impacts. The change in project location is currently being reviewed by ODOT and will need to be re-surveyed and engineered. These changes in the plan may take up to two more years to evaluate and roughly $25,000 more in design fees before any construction could begin. We also initiated a new analysis tool for scheduling meeting room space at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and there were no space conflicts this year for the first time in recent memory. After eight years of occupancy, the meeting spaces and storage spaces at the MMC are being used at nearly 70 percent capacity most of the year, and closing in on 100 percent during the busiest part of the spring class season. We anticipate that program use of the facility will be near maximum capacity in just a few years and will be consulting with architects in the year ahead to start planning for solutions. The exploratory project to build a climbers ranch at Smith Rock State Park also moved forward under the direction of Preston Corless, of the Mazamas Foundation. The Foundation holds a purchase option agreement to buy several acres of land adjacent to the park, and is evaluating the feasibility of improving the facilities for overnight use by hikers, climbers, and of course our members. Smith Rock State Park is one of the top ten most important and iconic climbing areas in the world, is one of the busiest parks in all of Oregon, and there is no overnight lodging within a 30-minute drive of the park. A business planning study was completed this year and an action plan for the year ahead was presented to Executive Council at their July meeting. STAFF DEVELOPMENT Our staff at the Mazamas has grown recently to manage and execute the strategic plan projects. My article in the January 2016 Mazama Bulletin

details these changes and describes the work of each of our employees. Of note in 2015—Adam Baylor received his master’s degree in nonprofit management and will move to full-time as our Stewardship and Advocacy Manager. Jamie Anderson and I received training in fundraising and development, and we hired Laura Burger to be our new parttime membership and development assistant. Finally, to ensure sustainable management of our library, archives, museum, and records we hired Mathew Brock as our Library and Historical Collections manager in February. PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL The Portland Alpine Festival was a huge success this year with more participation and more events than ever before. Kudos go to Alicia Imbody and the committee for organizing the events, as well as to Sarah Bradham for growing sponsorships and the silent auction. The festival ended with net revenue of $2,500 and generated over $17,000 for youth programs. attendance at the festival exceeded 1,200 and included roughly thirty percent nonmember attendance. SUMMARY Our first year of executing the strategic plan was successful overall, and we are excited to see our programs and services expand. In the year ahead, we will initiate the IT project, stabilize and grow the Stewardship and Advocacy program as well as our youth and family programs, and begin piloting new ways of recruiting, training, and engaging volunteer leaders. We aim to provide modern and relevant programs and services to our members and the community at large. Thanks to our members, volunteers, partners, and friends we will have the support we need to be successful in meeting our goals. Thanks to you the Mazamas will become the most important organization in our region for everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains.

Treasurer’s Report by Steve Hooker

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his fiscal year was marked by a concerted effort to develop the strategic plan as well as funding initiatives to support it.

Last year we worked with the Mazamas Foundation on a three-year grant agreement to continue to fund our stewardship and grants programs as well as address the most persistent strategic priorities. To look to the long-term fiscal health of the organization, this year’s budget is divided into three major components: the core operational budget; a series of operational reserves to fund grants and to prepare for capital expenses and potential emergencies; and the grant- and donor-funded development projects. In regular operations, education programs, led by a large Basic Climbing Education Program, continue to be strong, with $200,000 in income, despite early hits by the poor snow season. The Portland Alpine Festival stabilized financially in its second year, and the activity programs have had a balanced budget year, as well. Donor support continues to grow and have a significant impact on the Mazamas’ budget. This support takes the form of individual donations to the annual operating fund, the major strategic initiatives including Youth, Stewardship, and our Historical Collections, volunteer grants, and employer programs, as well as generous gifts made in honor of members. Support from the outdoor community continues to grow significantly, as well, with over 50 percent increase from last year in sponsorship. As the income from the three year grant was recognized entirely last year, we planned, and ran, a deficit year with $900,000 in accrued revenue and $1,200,000 in expenses. This is better than planned, as spending on the development projects, most notably the IT project, was slower than anticipated. This deferred spending is reflected in next year’s budget. At this time, Mazama’s total assets (cash) position remains very strong with available fund for general operations and current total assets totaling over $1,270,000. 63


Membership Report Volunteer Manager’s Report by Kati Mayfield

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n the words of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., “Life’s most persistent and urgent question is, ‘What are you doing for others?’” At any point during the year, you will see hundreds of passionate people eagerly exploring this question at the Mazamas, where “volunteers are the driving force in everything we do.” This phrase is quoted from the Mazama Core Value of Volunteerism, which was stronger than ever in the 2014–15 fiscal year. An estimated 650 individual volunteers contributed a staggering 97,000 hours to the organization.

2015 VOLUNTEER ACHIEVEMENT HIGHLIGHTS: ▶▶ 120 active Hike Leaders led 875 trail activities such as hikes, rambles, and snowshoe trips ▶▶ 90 active Climb Leaders led 184 successful climbs ▶▶ 400+ volunteers supported our classes, teaching more than 700 people new skills to safely enjoy and explore the mountains ▶▶ Successful community events such as the annual Portland Alpine Festival, Used Equipment Sale, and Round the Mountain ▶▶ Dozens of volunteers maintained trails and participated in various stewardship projects throughout the year ▶▶ The 13-member Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) committee provided eight debrief sessions to the Mazama community after traumatic events or near misses

My job relates very indirectly to the actual implementation of our programs and activities, since that is largely orchestrated by volunteers. So my work in 2014–15

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focused on a series of projects around leadership development. We began to look at volunteer recruitment and training and retention systems that will apply not only to Climb Leaders, but to all education and activity leaders at the Mazamas. In 2015 we offered the second annual Leadership Cohort, and examined leader development and retention through the Outdoor Safety Institute (OSI) report. The Leadership Cohort was a success, with 18 graduates, 13 of whom then actively engaged in leadership roles at the Mazamas. Cohort students participated in four evening classes to help them identify their leadership motivations and strengths, and then executed a capstone leadership project over a weekend on Mt. Hood. We worked with Alex Kosseff from OSI to develop a series of recommendations to improve leadership development efficiency and effectiveness at the Mazamas. More about the specific outcomes and projects from that report can be found in the Climbing Committee annual report on p. 52. Through these leadership projects we identified three primary tracks of

Total membership October 1, 2015 . . . . . . . 3,524 Total membership October 1, 2014 . . . . . . . 3,433 Members Added New members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472 Members reinstated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Total members added . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 Members Lost Resigned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Dropped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533 Deceased . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Total members lost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559 Net gain for the year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Status of Membership Honorary members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 25-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . 903 50-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Spouse members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Youth members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Oregon members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,932 Washington members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 All other locations members . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 leadership at the Mazamas: Activity Leadership (planning and leading hikes, climbs, outings), Educational Leadership (classroom and field instruction), and Administrative Leadership (designing, planning and implementing events, activities, classes, as well as organizational governance through committee and task force work). As we continue to experiment with the Leadership Cohort and with the recommendations from the OSI report, we are beginning to define the pathways for advancement along these Activity, Educational, and Administrative leadership tracks at the Mazamas and will use the lessons learned from these projects to inform how we streamline volunteer leadership across the entire organization. Thank you to all of the volunteers with whom I have had the pleasure of working with directly, and also to those who I rarely see, but serve enthusiastically in the field. Through teamwork, collaboration, and generosity of spirit, all of you carried the Mazamas through another great year.


SERVICE AWARDS The provision for honorary membership was included in the Constitution of the Mazamas written in 1894. The honorary membership may be bestowed upon “persons who have rendered distinguished service to the club, or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities”. by John Rettig

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ur 2015 Honorary Membership recipient joined the Mazamas in 1981, and over the past 34 years has been quietly rendering a most distinguished service to the organization. Our recipient became a climb leader in 1989, leading all 16 major peaks and receiving the Leuthold Award in 2000. He has taught in all of our climbing schools, plus Nordic and First Aid. Hundreds of new climbers have passed through his BCEP groups over the years. New climb leaders have benefitted by the mentorship that has always been graciously offered. Committee participation has included Climb, Risk Management, First Aid, Strategic Planning, Nordic, and Access, in many cases serving as chair. Our recipient served on Executive Council from 1999–2001, was President in 2001, and then served on the Mazamas Foundation from 2004–2006. But what really qualifies our recipient for honorary membership is the degree to which he has participated in helping shape the Mazamas as a model for what a modern outdoor organization should be. Attempts to list such accomplishments almost always will fall short, but here’s an attempt: ▶▶ In 1994 our recipient led the Climb Committee to recognize and react to threats to access on both regional and national fronts when the Forest Service proposed banning anchors as an incompatible use within designated wilderness areas. The committee quickly formed an Access subcommittee, formed partnerships with other organizations, took on the anchor issue, and dealt with the possibility that the Mazamas could be reclassified as an “outfitter/guide”—a threat to our ability

to offer climbs on Mount St. Helens and elsewhere. Our recipient set the tone for this effort and pursued a collaborative approach that we have used for twenty years to directly engage challenges to our activities, and we now have a better process to deal with such threats. ▶▶ Our recipient created a quantitative model of incident analysis for the Risk Management Committee that documents the situations where incidents occur and addresses them in our training programs. This work has been shared with National Outdoor Leadership School and others, again putting the Mazamas in a solid partnership with other outdoor organizations across the nation. ▶▶ Our recipient has extended our influence internationally. In 1993 our

recipient led six members of the Toyama Mountaineering Association from Japan to the summit Mt. St. Helens, which started us on a sister organization relation with them. He continued to include Toyama delegations on different climbs, resulting in two of their members receiving our Sixteen Peaks award in 2009. These ties have continued for over twenty years, with our recipient making frequent visits to Japan to renew the connection. Throughout our recipient’s long and distinguished career with the Mazamas, he has worked to bring out the best that our organization can be. That is why we award 2015 Honorary Membership to Doug Wilson.

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John Godino, with his wife Grace Godino, after winning the Parker Cup Award. Photo: Iris Han.

The Parker Cup, viewed by many as the Mazamas most prestigious award, was established to recognize those members who have distinguished themselves by hard work, ability and self-sacrifice for the benefit of the Mazamas.

John Godino— Parker Cup by Bob Murphy

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he Parker Cup is given annually to recognize outstanding service to the Mazamas. It is named after Alfred E. Parker, who was Mazama President in 1925. This year’s recipient has a long standing record of service to the Mazamas. His exact list of accomplishments may only be known to him, since he cheerfully volunteers without self-promotion. When I took his name to the Executive Council as my choice for this year’s Parker Cup recipient, the overwhelming response was, “It is about time!” He has served on the AYM and web committees; is an active climb leader

who is heavily involved in teaching; he gives multi-discipline lectures in Families Mountaineering, Intermediate Climbing School, Advanced Rock, Advanced Snow & Ice and many Skillbuilders, including Rock Anchors and Wilderness Navigation. He also created the concept of Skillbuilders— short duration classes with a lecture and one field session. He has also created: ▶▶ Climb Night, Rock Review, Summer Rock Program, Rock Anchors, Map & Compass Navigation. ▶▶ Tip of the Week on the Mazama website ▶▶ The Mazama route description web listing

Tom Guyot—Hardesty Cup by Kati Mayfield

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his cup is named for William P. Hardesty, who joined the Mazamas in 1906 and established the “Local Walks Committee” (now known as the Trail Trips Committee) in 1912. Hardesty passed away in 1944, and at that time became the “club’s greatest benefactor”, leaving a large trust to the Mazamas. In 1979, to recognize his legacy, the club named one of its most prestigious awards in his honor. Today the cup is presented to the Mazama member that has been exceptional in their dedication to the Mazamas’ efforts in trail trips.

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This year, the Trail Trips Committee chose to honor Tom Guyot with the Hardesty Cup. Tom certainly embodies the spirit of service and dedication recognized in each Hardesty Cup winner. For example, 2015 also marked the year that Tom passed the 700 leads mark for the Mazamas. For over a decade Tom has led hikes, primarily the Tuesday Thursday evening Street Rambles, where he has a dedicated following of over two dozen hikers. In addition to those weekly hikes he leads special Heritage Tree Rambles during the summer, which he and his wife, Gretchen, lovingly and painstakingly scout in advance of each trip. Tom and Gretchen are the parents of two grown daughters, and true friends of the Mazamas, beloved by all of their hiking friends. On behalf of all Mazamas, especially those who have benefitted from your leadership, thank you, Tom!

▶▶ Mt. Tabor and Mazama Lodge Navigation courses ▶▶ Maps and GPS tracks for climbing and hiking available on the Mazama website, complete with how-to tutorials. In addition to all of this, he painted the front steps of the MMC. In short, anyone who has walked up the front steps of the MMC or learned anchors or navigation in the past 15 years has benefitted from his tireless work. He has inspired countless people with his involvement with the Mazamas, myself included. The 2015 Parker Cup recipient for Outstanding Service, John Godino.

Tom Guyot, with his wife Gretchen Guyot, after winning the Hardesty Cup. Photo: Lisa Ripps

The William P. Hardesty Leadership Cup is the annual award presented by the Trail Trips Committee to the Mazama who best exemplifies the spirit of volunteerism and service to the hiking community.


15-POINT Leadership

67


68 Leora Gregory/Lynne Pedersen 8/0 Justin Brady/Lisa Brady 5/0 Darrell Weston/Andrea Ogston 4/0 Michael Hortsch/Rico Micallef 4/4 Bob Breivogel/Jay Avery 6/6 Leora Gregory/Jay Avery 12/11 Bob Breivogel/Tom Dodson 7/0 Justin Brady/Alicia Imbody 7/7 Rebecca Schob/Wim Aarts 4/4 Kevin Clark/Robin Wilcox 8/6 Steve Warner/Rae Lantsberger 7/7 George Shay/Marty Gillen 6/6 Lisa Brady/Mike Leonard Maguire 10/9 Doug Wilson/Jan Buschman 4/4 Tim Scott/Robin Wilcox 8/0 Greg Willmarth/Jennifer Van Houten 12/12 Gary Bishop/Benjamin Stabley 8/0 Richard Bronder/Tom Baughman 10/0 Andrew Bodien/Mike Levis 6/6 Darrell Weston/Josh Mitchell 12/12 George Shay/Rae Lantsberger 12/12 Rebecca Schob/Tim Scott 12/10 Walter Keutel/Barbara Weiss 11/11 Eileen Kiely/Stephanie Buer 8/6 Azure Olson/Rico Micallef 10/7 Amy Graham/Gary Bishop 6/6 Eileen Kiely/Amanda Crochet 10/8 Bob Breivogel/Sojo Hendrix 10/10 George Shay/Guy Wettstein 9/0 John Meckel/George Cummings 8/0 Patrice Cook/Brad Hupy 7/7 Greg Scott/Heather Campbell 8/8 Walter Keutel/Stephen Hirai 11/11 Lisa Ripps/Rico Micallef 10/7 Rayce Boucher/Johnny Leahy 10/10 Darrell Weston/Andrew Osborn 12/11 Walter Keutel/Kirk Newgard 10/10 Joseph Eberhardt/Steve Heikkila 6/6 Dan Schuster/Aaron Morgan 11/0 Tim Scott/Brit Laurenti 12/11 Gary Bishop/Grant Causton 8/8 Doug Wilson/Eric Einspruch 5/5 Doug Wilson/Eric Einspruch 7/7 George Shay/Roger Sharp 9/0 Steven Heikkila/Mike Levis 6/6 Glenn Widener/Rico Micallef 10/10 Amy Mendenhall/Dave Aerne 10/10 Eileen Kiely/Daniel Mick 8/8

Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur Mt. St Helens, Swift Creek Telescope Peak, Mahogany Flat Trail Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Dragontail Peak, Triple Couloirs Mt. St. Helens,Monitor Ridge Mt. St. Helens,Swift Creek—Worm Flows Mt. St. Helens,Swift Creek—Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens,Swift Creek—Worm Flows Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim Mt. St. Helens,Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens,Swift Creek—Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Eagle Peak, Eagle Peak Trail Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall Mt. Hood, Old Chute Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Hood, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. St. Helens,Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Angeles, East Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake The Tooth, South Face Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, South Side

1/25 1/31 2/21 3/1 3/26 4/9 4/16 5/1 5/2 5/2 5/3 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/8 5/8 5/8 5/9 5/10 5/10 5/11 5/15 5/16 5/17 5/19 5/23 5/23 5/24 5/25 5/25 5/27 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/31 5/31 6/1 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/6 6/6 6/6 6/6 6/7 6/7

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant

Date Mountain, Route

2015 OFFICIAL MAZAMA CLIMBS 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/9 6/10 6/10 6/10 6/11 6/11 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/16 6/17 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/29 6/30 7/2 7/2 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/4

Leader/Assistant

Start/Finish

Mt. Hood, Old Chute Steve Warner/Stevan Arychuk 5/3 Mt. Hood, South Side Paul Underwood/Scott Stevenson 8/8 Mt. Hood, Sunshine Gary Ballou/Kirk Newgard 8/8 Mt. Hood, South Side Amy Graham/Bianca Pyko 8/0 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Marty Scott/Alicia Imbody 8/8 Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Doug Wilson/Eugene Lewins 8/8 Mt. Hood, Old Chute Tim Scott/Kyle Johnson 12/5 Castle-Pinnacle, Reflection Lake Shirley Welch/Alicia Imbody 8/8 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Doug Wilson/Eugene Lewins 7/7 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Eileen Kiely/Teresa Redman 8/8 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Paul Underwood/Dian Ott 11/10 Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Alexander Fox/Steve Heikkila 9/9 Mt. Buckner, SW Face Linda E. Mark/Jonathan Myers 6/0 Middle Sister, North Ridge Bill McLoughlin/Eric Kennedy 12/12 Castle-Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lake Paul Underwood/Guy Wettstein 8/8 Mt. Adams, South Side Lisa Ripps/Kim Hefty 9/9 Brothers, Lena Lake Bob Breivogel/Tom Davidson 8/8 Middle Sister, Hayden/North Ridge Justin Brady/Gary Ballou 11/11 Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier/N. Ridge Ania Wiktorowicz/Francisco Villa 8/8 Mt. Cruiser, South Corner Glenn Widener/Thomas Dodson 8/8 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake George Cummings/John Meckel 11/11 Mt. Adams, South Side Greg Scott/Vinny Marianielli 8/7 Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Michael Hortsch/Chris Rears 6/0 Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Azure Olson/Mike Treadwell 8/7 Mt. Bretherton & Mt. Lena Kevin Clark/Richard Stellner 8/8 Eldorado Peak, East Ridge Amy Graham/Amy Mendenhall 8/8 Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Preston Corless/Rico Micallef 4/4 Mt. Adams, South Side Eileen Kiely/Beth Copeland 7/7 Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge George Cummings/John Meckel 9/9 Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier Robin Wilcox/Heather Campbell 8/8 Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lake Justin Rotherham/Craig Martin 12/12 Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Reflection Lake Jeff Litwak/Daniel Mick 8/8 Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Reflection Lake Chris Kruell/Kirstin Labudda 8/8 The Tooth, South Face Rayce Boucher/Stephen Hirai 6/6 Eagle & Chutla Peak, Eagle Trail Jeff Litwak/Eric Einspruch 8/8 Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Rico Micallef/George Shay 10/6 Castle Dome, Standard Kirstin Labudda/Chris Kruell 11/10 Castle-Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lake Dan Schuster/Nick Hershman 10/10 Hibox Peak, SW Route Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher 7/7 Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Justin Rotherham/Ania Wiktorowicz 10/0 Castle-Pinnacle Peak, Reflection Lake Ania Wiktorowicz/Eric Einspruch 7/7 Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Larry Beck/Scott Osbron 7/0 Middle Sister, SE Ridge Ellen Gradison/Whitney Lindahl 8/7 Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Patrice Cook/Amanda Crochet 6/6 Mt. Adams, South Side Gary Bishop/Aaron Nelson 5/5 Mt. Adams, South Side Amy Mendenhall/Amy Graham 7/7 Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat Dan Schuster/Nancy Goering 5/5 Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Lynne Pedersen/Jonathan Myers 10/9

Date Mountain, Route


69

Rico Micallef/Preston Corless 5/0 Ania Wiktorowicz/Margaret McCarthy 7/7 Thomas Miller/Scott Osbron 5/0 Joseph Eberhardt/Larry Beck 7/7 Lori Freeman/Barry O’Mahoney 8/8 Bill McLoughlin/Paul Griffith 12/0 Justin Brady/Jon Skeen 5/5 Amy Mendenhall/Dave Aerne 6/0 Justin Brady/Laura Bax 6/6 Patrice Cook/Shane Harlson 6/6 Alexander Fox/Matt Carter 6/5 Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher 10/10 John Meckel/Vincent Marianiello 7/7 Bruce Yatvin/Martin Gillen 8/8 John Meckel/Pailyn Brown 6/6 Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher 8/8 Donna Vandall/Jean Cavanaugh 8/8 Rico Micallef/Lynne Pedersen 10/10 Matthew Sundling/Eric Bruckbauer 5/5 Justin Brady/Lee Davis 7/7 Dan Schuster/Aaron Morgan 4/4 Joe Whittington/Kathleen Welland 4/4 Jeff Litwak/James Jula 7/7 Doug Wilson/Rick Craycraft 6/6 Paul Steger/John Leary 6/6 Lori Freeman-LaDuke/Roger Sharp 6/0 George Shay/Rae Lantsberger 11/11 Glenn Widener/Kirk Newgard 11/9 Doug Wilson/Dan Crisp 6/6 Steve Warner/Rico Micallef 5/5 Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher 7/7 Justin Rotherham/Jason Linse 10/0 Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher 8/8 Josh Lockerby/Cody Shotola-Schiewe 12/10 Richard Bronder/Ted Slupesky 4/4 Larry Beck/Amy Graham 7/0 Ellen Gradison/Whitney Lindahl 5/5 Matt Carter/Alicia Imbody 10/10 John Godino/Dave Groudle 9/8 Joseph Eberhardt/Patrice Cook 9/9 Lori Freeman-LaDuke/Beth Copeland 11/11 Alexander Fox/Paul Steger 8/8 Gary Bishop/Benjamin Stabley 6/0 Michael Hortsch/Daniel Mick 11/11 Richard Bronder/Ted Slupesky 12/12 Gary Ballou/Elizabeth Copeland 9/9 Matthew Sundling/Stephanie Spence 4/4 Richard Bronder/Ted Slupesky 12/12 Paul Underwood/Howie Davis 5/5

Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Aiguille du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Aiguille de I’Index, Southeast Arete Diamond Peak, Summit Lake Mt. Adams, South Butte Burroughs & Skyscraper, Frozen Lake South Sister, Green Lakes Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Barrier Peak, Owyhigh Lakes Del Campo Peak, South Gully Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Dent du Geant, SW Face Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Olallie Butte, West Side The Tooth, South Side Pyramid Peak, Tahoma Creek Bispen (Norway), Northwest Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Middle Sister, Hayden/North Ridge Mt. Jefferson, East Face Denman, Lane, Wahpenayo, Traverse Mt. Jefferson, South Side Hidden Lake Peak, North Ridge Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Mt. Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir South Sister, Devils Lake Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Del Campo Peak, South Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Castle-Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Le Petit Cheval, Spontaneity Arete Mt. Tamanos, Owyhigh Lakes Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier

7/6 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/12 7/12 7/14 7/16 7/16 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/20 7/21 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/25 7/25 7/26 7/26 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/29 8/1 8/2 8/3 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/8 8/8 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/16 8/16

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant

Date Mountain, Route

2015 OFFICIAL MAZAMA CLIMBS 8/16 8/17 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/27 8/30 8/31 9/1 9/5 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/10 9/10 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/12 9/13 9/13 9/13 9/19 9/19 9/20 9/25 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/29 10/3 10/4 12/31

Leader/Assistant

Start/Finish

South Sister, Green Lakes Amy Mendenhall/Beth Copeland 8/8 Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Matthew Sundling/Stephanie Spence 4/4 Mt. Tamanos, Owyhigh Lakes Doug Wilson/Drew Gaylord 5/5 Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Ted Slupesky/Justin Brady 8/0 Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat Lori Freeman-LaDuke/Sue Griffith 9/9 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Paul Underwood/James Pitkin 9/9 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Paul Underwood/Michael Levis 8/8 South Sister, Devils Lake James Jula/Bianca Pyko 11/11 Observation Rock, Standard Robin Wilcox/Terry Brenneman 5/5 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Doug Wilson/William O’Brien 6/6 Mt. Whitney, John Muir Trail Gary Bishop/Darin Richardson 6/6 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Doug Couch/Kris Simbajon 4/4 South Sister, South Ridge Doug Couch/Kris Simbajon 4/3 Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Thomas Miller/Cameron Brown 7/7 Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Bruce Yatvin/Lawrence Solomon 11/0 Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Ryan Christie/Patrick Clark 7/0 South Sister, Devils Lake George Shay/Rae Lantsberger 5/5 Broken Top, Northwest Ridge Bob Breivogel/Seeger Fisher 8/0 North Sister, South Ridge Eileen Kiely/Rico Micallef 7/0 Plummer, Pinnacle Saddle Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl 9/9 Mt. St Helens, Monitor Ridge Amy Mendenhall/Shane Harlson 9/9 Broken Top, NW Ridge Bruce Yatvin/Kevin Nelson 9/9 Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Amy Graham/Paul Underwood 11/11 Mt. Washington, North Ridge Robin Wilcox/Larry Beck 10/10 Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Gary Ballou/Ted Slupesky 6/6 Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flat Lori Freeman-LaDuke/Daniel Mick 7/7 Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Richard Bronder/Kevin Nelson 9/9 Mt. Washington, North Ridge Daniel Bailey/Scott Osbron 4/4 Middle Sister, Renfrew Galcier Dan Schuster/Aaron Morgan 9/9 Union Peak, West Face Paul Underwood/Amy Graham 11/11 Broken Top, NW Ridge Josh Lockerby/Steve Scovill 11/10 Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge Joseph Eberhardt/Gary Ballou 9/9 North Sister, South Ridge Rico Micallef/Martin Gillen 5/5 The Tooth, South Side Azure Olson/Linda A. Mark 6/6 Broken Top, Green Lakes Rico Micallef/Jerome Leedy 9/8 Castle-Pinnacle Peak, Standard Jon Major/Bill Dewsnap 8/7 Mt. Washington, North Ridge Amy Mendenhall/Lynne Pedersen 9/9 Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Bruce Yatvin/Matthew Bunza 8/8 Tomyhoi Peak, Standard Shirley Welch/Marty Scott 7/7 Mt. Thompson (CA), Canyon Creek Lakes Kevin Clark/Lea Wilson 6/6 Hepzibah Blop, East Ridge Preston Corless/Robin Wilcox 7/4 Mt. Hood, South Side Leora Gregory/Jay Avery 7/0

Date Mountain, Route


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Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Zigler, Marilyn Solomon, Larry Nair, Brett Selby, Jim Stein, Bill Nelson, David Solliero, Adonay Einspruch, Eric Craycraft, Rick Linza, Meg Lawson, Terry Karitis, Ashley Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Dan Auerbach, Mitch Dodson, Tom Karitis, Ashley Kallmann, Paul Stein, Bill Krug, Regis Brickey, Sue Evlin, Erin Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Guyot, Tom Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Solleiro, Adonay Linza, Meg Young, Kirby Lawson, Terry Beauchemin, Jess Hendrix, Sojo Nair, Brett Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Bishop, Gary Solomon, Larry Selby, Jim Amodeo, Rick Whittington, Joe Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Zeps, David

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Opal Creek Cape Horn Lacamas Lake Nesika via Wahkeena White River Canyon Moonlight SS/Hike Starvation Ridge & Dog Mountain (AYM) Tryon Creek (F) Elk-Kings Traverse Mt. Talbert Trail & Mt. Scott Stairs Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Bayocean Spit (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Falls Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dry Creek Falls Forest Park Table Mountain Dry Creek Falls (AYM) Dry Creek Falls (AYM co-leader) Silver Falls State Park (F) Eagle Creek (7-Mile Falls) Forest Park: Newton to Newberry Tillamook Head (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Aldrich Butte-Cedar Falls Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mount Defiance Mt. Talbert Trail & Mt. Scott Stairs Rock of Ages-Russ Jolley Trail Loop Forest Park: Macleay-Wildwood Loop Marys Peak via East Ridge Nesmith Point Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Waespe Point Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Hardy Ridge Moulton Falls Salmon River Dog Hike Twin Lakes Snowshoe Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park—Rollercoaster Dog Mountain

12/2 12/2 12/2 12/2 12/2 12/4 12/4 12/4 12/5 12/6 12/6 12/6 12/6 12/6 12/6 12/7 12/7 12/7 12/7 12/9 12/9 12/9 12/9 12/9 12/10 12/11 12/11 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/14 12/14 12/14 12/16 12/16 12/16 12/16 12/16 12/17 12/18 12/18 12/18 12/18 12/18 12/20 12/20 12/20 12/21 12/21 12/21 12/22 12/23 12/23 12/23 12/23 12/23 12/24 12/27 12/27 12/27 12/28 12/28 12/30 12/30 12/30 12/31 1/1

10 11 11 11 11 8 8 8 4 9 3 3 5

3 9 11 12 11 12 12 9 8 9 9 9 9 4 3 5 13 3 6 3 12 12 12 13 12 8 4 6 16 7 6 13 13 14 15 16

7 6 6 4 5.5 5.8 7.5 6 6 6 4.5 11.9 5 8 5.5 7.2 9.8 7.2 7.5 5.5 6 5 5 8 12.6 8.4 5 9 8 6.5 6 5.5 7.5 7

12 11 11 12 12 15 9 8 6 5 8

14 7.6

6 6 8 5 5.8 8.4 6 6 7.6 7 13

8.5 13 6 11 5 9

7.5 6 6 5.5 5.5 6 6 5 10.5 7 7 8 4

Miles Att

Leader

Date Trip 1/2 1/3 1/3 1/3 1/4 1/4 1/6 1/6 1/6 1/6 1/6 1/7 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/9 1/10 1/10 1/10 1/11 1/11 1/11 1/13 1/13 1/13 1/13 1/14 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/17 1/17 1/17 1/18 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/21 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/23 1/24 1/24 1/24 1/25 1/25 1/27 1/27 1/27 1/27 1/28 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/31 1/31 1/31 1/31 2/1 2/1 2/1

Willamette River Loop Cooks-Augspurger Traverse Mt. Tabor Trillium Lake Moonlight Snowshoe Dry Creek Falls & PCT Falls Forest Park: Wild Cherry to Alder Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Stub Stewart State Park Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hillsdale to Goose Hollow Half 4T Trail Herman Creek (The Forks) Larch Mountain Alameda Ridge Pittock Mansion Loop Cape Lookout (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bunker Hill Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Alameda Ridge Stairs Klickitat River Trail North Lake via Wyeth Trail Steigerwald Lake NWR Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Chocolate Falls Snowshoe Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park: BPA Road-Newton Road Cape Lookout Silver Creek Falls Deschutes River Trail (AYM) Cape Horn Mt. Defiance Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Sedum Ridge from Trout Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Frog Lake-Twin Lakes Snowshoe Nesmith Point Silver Creek Falls Hunchback Mountain (AYM) Coyote Wall Forest Park Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail trips 7 9 7 3 6 5 14 15 14 14 15 10 11 11 12 12 8 12 12 6 6 15 14 14 13 14 19 9 9 10 9 6 5 5 5 10 11 11 10 10 10 11 6 11 12 12 12 4 8 4 18 5

12 12 12 13 12 4 6 7 5 4 3

8.4 13 9 5.2 8.5 4.7 7.5 6 6 6.5 5 6.3 6 6 5.5 5.5 5 5.5 8.5 14.4 6.5 9.3 6 6 6 5.5 6 6 6 5 5.5 6 8 13.2 4 7.5 6 6 6 6.5 7 5 8 7 6 6 5 8.1 10 7.8 7 11.9 6 6.5 7 5.5 11 6 6 5 5.5 10 11 10.3 8.2 6 8

Miles Att

Lawson, Terry Hiland, Kurt Craycraft, Rick Nelson, David Krug, Regis Eckel, Carolyn Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn O’Brien, William Lawson, Terry Hendrix, Sojo Solleiro, Adonay Steger, Paul Lawson, Terry Paver, Hal Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Craycraft, Rick Smith, Dan Foster, Dyanne Sanzone, Mark Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Russell, Adam Bishop, Gary Stein, Bill Reeder, Matt Nair, Brett Dodson, Tom Johnson, Megan Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Krug, Regis Solleiro, Adonay Solomon, Larry Dechant, Keith Breunsbach, Rex Wettstein, Guy Foster, Dyanne

Leader 2/1 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/4 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/5 2/7 2/7 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/11 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/13 2/14 2/15 2/15 2/15 2/16 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/18 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/21 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/24 2/24 2/24 2/24 2/24 2/24 2/25 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/28 2/28

Wahkeena-Angels Rest (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Greenleaf Overlook Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Catherine Creek-Coyote Wall Loop Franklin Ridge (AYM) Indian Point Nestucca Spit & Cape Kiwanda Table Mountain Munra Point (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Deschutes River Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble St. Johns to Forest Park Wildwood-Marquam Loop Mt. Tabor Wahkeena-Devils Rest Eagle Creek (AYM) Wauna Viewpoint (F) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tom-Dick Mountain University Falls Indian Point (AYM) Nesika Lodge Overnight (Day 1)(AYM) Devils Rest via Angels Rest Elevator Shaft Lacamas & Round Lakes Silver Star Mountain (AYM) Nesika Lodge Overnight (Day 2)(AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble University Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (High Bridge) Hardy Ridge

Date Trip

11 12 12 11 12 12 12 7 7 7 7 7 8 13 14 11 16

7 6 6 7 5.5 6 10 7 6 6 6 7 5.5 7.5 7.8 6 9.5

6 5 7.5 6 7 6 8.4 5 6 6 5.5 6.6 8.1

11 11 11 11 12 11 22 9 8 9 8 9 12

11 8 7 5 7 10

12 13 12 13 13 14 7 7 7 7 8 5 8

4 6 3

8.9 6.5 10

7.5 6 7 5 6 8.5 6 7.5 6 7 5 7.2 8

11 12 12 11 12 12 10 5 6 6 6 6

7.5 6 6 7 5 5.5 8.2 7.5 6 6 6 6

Miles Att

Solliero, Adonay Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Breivogel, Bob Solliero, Adonay Eskridge, Rick Beauchemin, Jess Krug, Regis Solliero, Adonay Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert O’Brien, William Lawson, Terry Lawson, Terry Smith, Dan Paver, Hal Stein, Bill Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Breivogel, Bob Brown, Amy Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Nelson, David Stein, Bill Solliero, Adonay Kallmann, Paul Craycraft, Rick Solliero, Adonay Lawson, Terry Dechant, Keith Kallmann, Paul Breivogel, Bob Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Zigler, Marilyn Bourdin, Sherry Wettstein, Guy

Leader

Legend: Att: Attendance SS: Snowshoe TT: Trail Tending RTM: Round-the-Mountain O=Outing AYM: 20s & 30s Mazamas F: Families


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Leader

Miles Att

2/28 Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Solliero, Adonay 12 8 3/1 Cloudcap Snowshoe Krug, Regis 7 4 3/1 Mt. Talbert & Mt. Scott Linza, Meg 7.5 10 3/1 Table Mountain Hendrix, Sojo 10 12 3/1 Horsetail-Oneonta Loop (F) Kallmann, Paul 3/3 Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8.5 12 3/3 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 12 3/3 Portland Street Ramble Johnson, Megan 6 12 3/3 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 12 3/3 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 12 3/3 Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn 5.5 11 3/4 Rudolph Spur Fowler, Mark 11 6 3/5 Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8 10 3/5 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 5.5 10 3/5 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 10 3/5 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 10 3/6 White River Moonlight Snowshoe Whittington, Joe 4 9 3/7 Indian Point Nair, Brett 8.4 12 3/7 Lookout Mountain Dodson, Tom 10.4 12 3/7 East Zig Zag Mountain (AYM) Kallmann, Paul 3/7 Devils Lake Yurt Weekend (AYM) Reeder, M, & Langenwalter, K 3/8 Bald Butte Breunsbach, Rex 8.4 16 3/8 Forest Park (Big Stump) Lawson, Terry 6.2 10 3/10 Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8 10 3/10 Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob 6 9 3/10 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 6 9 3/10 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 9 3/10 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 9 3/10 Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn 5.5 9 3/11 Reed Canyon & Beyond Pandzik, Patty 7.5 5 3/11 Ruckel Ridge-Ruckel Creek Loop Fowler, Mark 9.6 7 3/12 Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob 6 10 3/12 Portland Street Ramble Fellers, Whit 7 11 3/12 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 11 3/12 Portland Street Ramble Mills, George 5.5 10 3/13 Hillsdale to the River O’Brien, William 5 7 3/14 Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Smith, Dan 12.6 3 3/14 Wahkeena Falls Loop (AYM) Sinsky, Colleen 3/15 Sedona: Boynton Canyon (O) Zigler, Marilyn 3/15 Sedona: Boynton Canyon (O) Breunsbach, Rex 3/16 Sedona: Brins Mesa from Soldiers Pass (O) Zigler, Marilyn 3/16 Sedona: Munds Wagon, Hangover, Cowpies (O) Breunsbach, Rex 3/17 Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8 11 3/17 Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob 6 12 3/17 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 12 3/17 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 11 3/17 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 4.5 12 3/17 Sedona: West Fork Trail (O) Zigler, Marilyn 3/17 Sedona: West Fork Trail (O) Breunsbach, Rex 3/19 Portland Street Ramble Johnson, Megan 6 11 3/19 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 10 3/19 Portland Street Ramble Trask, Jennifer 6 11 3/19 Sedona: Long Canyon (O) Zigler, Marilyn 3/19 Sedona: Soldier Pass, Brins Mesa, Cibola Pass (O) Breunsbach, Rex 3/20 Sedona: Highline (O) Zigler, Marilyn 3/20 Sedona: Wilson Mountain (O) Breunsbach, Rex 3/21 Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Lawson, Terry 5.4 6 3/21 Wind Mountain & Dog Mountain Solomon, Larry 9.9 3 3/21 Sedona: Huckaby (O) Zigler, Marilyn 3/21 Sedona: Broken Arrow and more (O) Breunsbach, Rex 3/22 Dog Mountain Eskridge, Rick 6.9 3 3/22 Forest Park (Old Growth) Lawson, Terry 8.7 11 3/22 Franklin Ridge Solleiro, Adonay 12.5 6 3/22 Coyote Wall (AYM) Lau, Sander & Dechant, Keith 3/24 Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8 9 3/24 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 10 3/24 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 9 3/24 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 5 10 3/24 Portland Street Ramble Trask, Jennifer 6 10 3/24 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 6 10

Date Trip 3/25 3/26 3/26 3/26 3/26 3/27 3/28 3/28 3/28 3/29 3/29 3/29 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 4/1 4/1 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/4 4/5 4/5 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/8 4/8 4/9 4/9 4/9 4/9 4/10 4/10 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/11 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/13 4/14 4/14 4/14 4/14 4/14 4/15 4/15 4/16 4/16 4/16 4/16 4/16 4/18 4/18 4/18 4/19 4/19 4/19

Wahclella, McCord, Elowah & Dry Cr Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Silver Creek Falls Hamilton Mountain Tarbell Trail to Hidden Falls Moulton Falls (AYM) Catherine Creek Loop Gales Creek to Bell Camp Road Dublin Lake (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Slide Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cook Hill Elk Mountain Swale Canyon (AYM) Hardy Ridge (AYM) Opal Creek to Beachie Creek The Dalles Riverfront Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dalles Mountain Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tillamook Head Cottonwood Canyon Camp (F) Boulder Ridge Dog Mountain Kings Mountain Trail Tender Steigerwald Lake NWR Greenleaf Overlook (AYM) Cottonwood Canyon Camp (F) Bayocean Spit Wahkeena-Angels Rest Cottonwood Canyon Camp (F) Tom McCall Point & Rowena Plateau Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dublin Lake Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dry Creek Falls Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) West Zig Zag Mountain (AYM) Cape Horn Lower Starvation Loop Ape Cave (AYM)

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 19 13 13 14 14 5 8 6

8 4 13 13 13 12 13 9 6 15 15 15 15 5 6 5 9 6

10.5 6 6 6 6.5 7 5 8.3 5 6 6 6 5 10 10.5 7 5 5

4 11 11 12 11 11 12 8 12 11 11 11 11 14 7 7 3

6 6 7 5 6 6 13.6 5 4.5 6 6 7 7 5.4 12.6 5 3

7.5 3 6.4 13

9 9 9 9 9 3 8 13 13 13 14 7 4

7 6 6 7 5 6 10.8 7 6 6.5 5 5.3 10

7 19 13 12

8.4 8 6.5 6 5.5 8.7 7.6 10

Miles Att

Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Ripps, Lisa Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Beauchemin, Jess Lackey, Jessica Solomon, Larry Collins, Krista Getgen, Richard Breunsbach, Rex Solleiro, Adonay Fellers, Whit Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Huber, Flora Bourdin, Sherry Reeder, Matt Dechant, Keith Beauchemin, Jess Eckel, Carolyn Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Breivogel, Bob Linza, Meg Breivogel, Bob Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert O’Brien, William Rumford, Laura Solomon, Larry Nelson, David Pope, Richard Sanzone, Mark Kingston, David Rumford, Laura Edlund, Ursula Lawson, Terry Rumford, Laura Breivogel, Bob Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Trask, Jennifer Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Trask, Jennifer Lawson, Terry Nelson, David Kallmann, Paul Koch, Susan Stein, Bill Dechant, Keith

Leader 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/22 4/22 4/23 4/23 4/23 4/23 4/25 4/25 4/25 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/28 4/28 4/28 4/28 4/29 4/29 4/30 4/30 4/30 4/30 4/30 4/30 5/2 5/2 5/2 5/3 5/3 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/6 5/6 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/9 5/10 5/10 5/10 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/13 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/14 5/15 5/16 5/16 5/16 5/17 5/17

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Northern Gales Creek Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lacamas & Round Lakes Mt. Hebo Criterion Ranch (AYM) Devils Rest Dog Mountain Memaloose Hills Loop Wahkeena-Angels Rest-Devils Rest (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Table Rock-Rooster Rock Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Peak via Cool Creek Elowah & McCord Falls Dog Mountain (F) Columbia Hills/Dalles Mountain Ranch Elk-Kings Traverse Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Peak via Cool Creek Kings Mountain Table Rock (AYM) Saddle Mountain (AYM) Bridal Veil Plateau Franklin Ridge Wahclella & Elowah Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bull of the Woods Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Little Badger Creek/School Creek Canyon Three Corner Rock Twin Lakes Backpack (day 1) Wildcat Mountain Dog Mountain Larch Mountain

Date Trip 17 16 17 17 9 21 10 9 9 9 7 3

12 8 10 10 10 10 11 10 12 11 10 9 10 10 5 3 8 4 4 13 13 13 14 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 9 10 3 6 8 3

4.3 12.1 4.8 5 6 6 5 7.1 8 5 5.5 6 7 6 7.5 8.5 6 7.5 7.2 14

13 12 13 13 8 12 10 10 10 9 9 10 5 4 7 11.6 8 5 6.5 6 5 6 6 8.5 6 6 5 6 8 5.4

4.5 6 4 6 6 10 6 4.8 6 7 7 6 8.2 4

8 3 6.9 7 6 12

4.5 6 6 6 5 6.8 4.5 6 6 6.5 7 7

Miles Att

Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Zigler, Marilyn Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Lawson, Terry Breivogel, Bob Reeder, Matt Auerbach, Mitch Smith, Sheri Alice Getgen, Richard Mayfield, Kati Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Shotola, Leslie Trask, Jennifer Van Rossen, Daniel Nelson, David Jenkins, Carolyn Murphy, Bob Eskridge, Rick Hendrix, Sojo Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Bourdin, Sherry O’Mahony, Barry Kallmann, Paul Stumpf, Brandon Marlin, Kelly Goering, Nancy Lawson, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Van Rossen, Daniel O’Brien, William Breunsbach, Rex Krug, Regis Huber, Flora Hendrix, Sojo Evans, Kate

Leader


page 72

Edlund, Ursula Krug, Regis Nicksic, Cabe Einspruch, Eric Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lawson, Terry Krug, Regis Linza, Meg Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Lawson, Terry Linza, Meg Johnson, Megan Smith, Robert Trask, Jennifer Van Rossen, Daniel Huber, Flora Beauchemin, Jess Solomon, Larry Reeder, Matt Nair, Brett Getgen, Richard Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn O’Brien, William Solomon, Larry Nelson, David Fowler, Mark Lawson, Terry Edlund, Ursula Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Linza, Meg Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert

Salmon River Trail Twin Lakes Backpack (day 2) Flag Point (AYM) Bald Butte (F) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hardy Ridge Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Franklin Ridge Heritage Trees #1 (Reed College) Triple Falls Zig Zag Mountain Ruckel Ridge-Ruckel Creek Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Falls Creek Falls Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Rest via Larch Mtn Road Marys Peak Salmon Butte Thunder Mountain/Baty Butte (AYM) Elk-Kings Traverse Twin Lakes Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Surveyor Ridge Hardy Ridge-Hamilton Mountain Paradise Park Aldrich Butte, Cedar Mtn., Table Mtn. Greenleaf Overlook Wahkeena-Angels Rest Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mitchell Point-Wygant Trail Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/20 5/20 5/21 5/21 5/21 5/21 5/23 5/23 5/24 5/24 5/25 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/27 5/27 5/28 5/28 5/28 5/28 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/30 5/31 5/31 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/3 6/4 6/4 6/4 6/4 6/4 6/5 6/6 6/6 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/10 6/10 6/11 6/11 6/11 6/11

7 3 16 16 16 16 13 5 12 12 11 12 12 14 7 12 9 9 9 9 9 10 9 9 4 4 11 11 10 10 8 9 12 11 12 9 10 10 9 10 10 12 10 9 9 10 10 5 8 12 6 8 5 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 5 9 10 10 10 10

7.2 6 8 5 6 5 9 6 5.5 6 7 5 10.1 4.5 6.7 9.6 9.6 8 5.5 6 7 5 6 5.5 8.4 6 6 4.5 6.5 6 3 7.5 12 8.5 8.6 8 5.5 6 7 5 6 5 5.8 6 6 6 5.5 11.7 14 14.5 14 7.6 7.4 8 9 5.5 6 7 5 5.5 5.4 5 8 6 6 5

Miles Att

Leader

Date Trip 6/11 6/11 6/13 6/13 6/13 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/17 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/19 6/20 6/20 6/20 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/24 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/26 6/26 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/27 6/28 6/28 6/29 6/30 6/30

Leader

11 12 12 12 12 12 13

5 6 6 6 7 5 10.7

12 11 11 11 11 11 11

6.4 10.2 5.2 5.8 6

8 4 5 9 9

9 5 3.5 16 6 7

8 10 6 10 6 9 5 9

5 11 10 5

8 9 5.5 6 7 7 5

5.4 4 8.7 14

10.6 3 9 11 6 10

10 10 9 34 7 5 6 11 12 8 9 9 9 9 9 9

6 5.8 10.6 4.8 17.4 13 10.6 8.7 7.5 8 5.5 6 6.5 7 5 6

Miles Att

Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn Ape Canyon Smith, Sheri Alice Heritage Trees #2 (Ladds Addition) Guyot, Tom Yocum Ridge Smith, Dan Buck Peak Whittington, Joe Dome Rock Beauchemin, Jess East Zig Zag Mountain Auerbach, Mitch McIntyre Ridge-Wildcat Mountain Breunsbach, Rex Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Ripps, Lisa Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn Beaverton (F) Murphy, Bob Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Johnson, megan Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Ripps, Lisa Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Sedum Ridge Breunsbach, Rex Marquam Hill Ramble (AYM) Morse, Joe Boulder Ridge Bourdin, Sherry McNeil Point Smith, Dan Tamanawas Falls Huber, Flora Rooster Rock Climb & BBQ (F) Murphy, Bob Lewis River Falls Meyer, Kent Silver Star Mountain via Ed’s Trail Breivogel, Bob Olympics: Hurricane Hill & Sunrise Ridge (O) Getgen, Richard Olympics: Sol Duc Falls-Lover’s Lane (O) Smith, Robert Paradise Park (AYM) Nicksic, Cabe Paradise Park (AYM) Langenwalter, Karl Olympics: Cape Alava (O) Getgen, Richard Olympics: Sol Duc Falls-Lover’s Lane (O) Smith, Robert Olympics: Deer Ridge (O) Breunsbach, Rex Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Ripps, Lisa Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn Olympics: Spruce Railroad Trail (O) Getgen, Richard Olympics: Cirque Rim-Sunrise Ridge... (O) Smith, Robert Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Table Mountain Evans, Kate Olympics: Camp Handy (Dungeness River) (O) Getgen, Richard Olympics: Dungeness Spit (O) Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn Olympics: North Fork Sol Duc, Sol Duc Falls (O) Getgen, Richard Olympics: North Fork Sol Duc, Aurora Ridge (O) Solomon, Larry Olympics: Hurricane Hill (O) Smith, Robert Olympics: Dungeness Spit (O) Getgen, Richard Olympics: Storm King Mountain ... (O) Smith, Robert Devils Rest Loop Krug, Regis Heritage Trees #3 (Irvington) Guyot, Tom Lava Canyon Huber, Flora Olympics: Lake Angeles (O) Breunsbach, Rex Larch Mountain Crater Lawson, Terry Soda Peaks Lake Stein, Bill Saddle Mountain Whittington, Joe Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail trips 6/30 6/30 6/30 6/30 7/1 7/1 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/4 7/4 7/4 7/4 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/7 7/7 7/7 7/8 7/8 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/12 7/12 7/13 7/13 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/15 7/15 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/17 7/17 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/18 7/19 7/19 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lucia & Moulton Falls Table Lake Backpack (AYM) (Day 1) Herman Creek Pinnacles Horseshoe Ridge Nesmith Point Table Lake Backpack (AYM) (Day 2) Silver Star Mountain (AYM) Bald Mountain via Lolo Pass Heritage Trees #4 (Kings Hill-Goose Hollow) Table Mountain Table Lake Backpack (AYM) (Day 3) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Defiance Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lava Canyon Ape Canyon Indian Mountain Mt. Margaret North Lake via Wyeth Trail Ponytail Falls June Lake-Chocolate Falls Steigerwald Lake NWR Linnton Loop Sheep Canyon Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Toutle Trail Ape Canyon-Plains of Abraham Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Butte Camp Wild Cheat Meadow/Triangulation Peak Heritage Trees #5 (Laurelhurst) Kings Mountain Loowit Falls-Plains of Abraham Rock of Ages (AYM) Lookout Mountain Tom-Dick Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip

8 5 6 4 5 13 13 14 13 13 6 7 3 11 6 6 13 13 3 18 8 9 8 8 8 8 6 17 12 8 9 8 8 9 8 8 6 25 6 11 9 10 12 12 13 12 12

19 18 18 11.9 5 5 6 6 6.5 7 6.6 11 9.4 11.6 13.2 4.5 9 5 5.2 11.5 8 5 7 5 6 6 5 9 10.6 8 6 6 6 5 6 8 12.2 4.5 6 11.7 11 7.4 8 9 5.3 6 7.5

7 8 4 12 10 3

5 10 10.4 6 11 3

6.5 9 7 9 5 10 6 9 5 4 5.4 7 7 8 6 8 4.5 9 6 8 6 16

Miles Att

Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Lawson, Terry Fellers, Whit Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Selby, Jim Reeder, Matt Lawson, Terry Smith, Sheri Alice Breunsbach, Rex Reeder, Matt Nicksic, Cabe Lawson, Terry Guyot, Tom Eggers, Tom Reeder, Matt Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Van Rossen, Daniel Evans, Kate Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Shotola, Leslie Smith, Dan Lincoln, Wayne Marlin, Kelly Breunsbach, Rex Eskridge, Rick Jenkins, Carolyn Breunsbach, Rex Selby, Jim Russell, Adam Smith, Dan Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Smith, Dan Braem, David Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Smith, Dan O’Brien, William Guyot, Tom Amodeo, Rick Breunsbach, Rex Revolinsky, Anna Krug, Regis Getgen, Richard Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry

Leader

Legend: Att: Attendance SS: Snowshoe TT: Trail Tending RTM: Round-the-Mountain O=Outing AYM: 20s & 30s Mazamas F: Families


page 73

Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Zuber, Joan Linza, Meg Miller, Sarah Davidson, Tom Pope, Richard Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Pope, Richard Huber, Flora Selby, Jim Amodeo, Rick Linza, Meg Pope, Richard Kacmar, Mike Kingston, David Nair, Brett Hendrix, Sojo Amodeo, Rick Linza, Meg Getgen, Richard Revolinsky, Anna Braem, David Guyot, Tom Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Lawson, Terry Nelson, David Dechant, Keith Lau, Sandor Nelson, David Lawson, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg O’Brien, William Beauchemin, Jess Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Beauchemin, Jess Kallmann, Paul Smith, Dan Selby, Jim Beauchemin, Jess Guyot, Tom Solomon, Larry Beauchemin, Jess Sheldon, Ray Breivogel, Bob Whittington, Joe Sheldon, Ray Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cache Meadows via Cripple Creek Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Elk Rock Island (AYM) Mazama Trail TT Mazama Trail TT Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mazama Trail TT Larch Mountain Crater Larch Mountain Crater Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 1 Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 1 Mazama Trail TT Paradise Park (AYM) Cairn Basin (AYM) Cape Horn Gumjuac Saddle to Jean Lake Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 2 Lost Lake Chuckwagon, Day 2 Tamanawas Falls Goat Lakes Loop (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Salmon River Trail Tom-Dick Mountain Cooper Spur (AYM) Cooper Spur (AYM-2nd leader) Devils Peak Lookout Hamilton Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Timberline Lodge-Paradise Park-East ZigZag Black Crater Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Belknap & Little Belknap Crater Oneonta Gorge & Potluck (AYM) Paradise Park Ridgefield NWR Scott Mountain-Hand Lake Loop Heritage Trees #6 (NW Portland) McNeil Point Obsidian Trail Loop Neahkahnie Mountain Canada: Sentinal Pass (O) Oregon Coast: Gleneden to Moolack (O) Fort to Sea Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

7/21 7/21 7/22 7/22 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/25 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/29 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30 8/1 8/1 8/1 8/1 8/2 8/2 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/5 8/5 8/6 8/6 8/6 8/6 8/6 8/7 8/7 8/8 8/8 8/8 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/10 8/10 8/10 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 10 6 15 14 14 15 14 5 9 4 7 7 6 7 4

8.2 7.6 5.5 6 7 5 6 5 14.4 7.8 5.5 5 7 5 8.5

6.5 8 5.5 6

12 12 12 12

12.7 3 5 15 10 7 4.3 8 9 11 12 5 4 10

14 15 14 14 15 9 5 5 4 5 5 8 7

8 6 6.5 7 5 5 5.3 6 7 4.5 6 7.2 7.2

7 13 10.5 6 14 12 14 9 4.4 6

6 6 7 4 8 7 5.5 8 6 8 7 8 5.5 8 6 8 7.2 7 7.2 7 11 12 11 9 6 6

6 12 5.4 13 11.5 9 5 8

Miles Att

Leader

Date Trip 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/12 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/14 8/14 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/15 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/17 8/17 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/19 8/19 8/19 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/21 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/22 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/26 8/26 8/26 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/28 8/29

Leader

Miles Att

Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 12 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 5 13 Canada: Emerald Basin (O) Breivogel, Bob Canada: Plain of Six Glaciers (O) Breivogel, Bob Oregon Coast: Yaquina Head (O) Whittington, Joe Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg 5 6 Saddle Mountain Sheldon, Ray 5.2 12 Canada: Iceline Summit (O) Breivogel, Bob Oregon Coast: South Beach to Ona Beach (O) Whittington, Joe Astoria River Walk Sheldon, Ray 3 10 Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 5.5 11 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 11 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 11 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 5 11 Canada: Assiniboine BP (Day 1) (O) Breivogel, Bob Oregon Coast: Ona Beach to Waldport (O) Whittington, Joe Canada: Assiniboine BP (Day 2) (O) Breivogel, Bob Oregon Coast: Waldport to Yachats (O) Whittington, Joe Rock of Ages Nair, Brett 10 8 Tom-Dick Mountain Smith, Dan 7.2 6 Upper & Lower Falls Creek Meyer, Kent 7 6 Canada: Assiniboine BP (Day 3) (O) Breivogel, Bob Oregon Coast: Cape Perpetua (O) Whittington, Joe Casey Creek Foster, Dyanne 15 8 Mazama Trail Breunsbach, Rex 9.5 12 Canada: Assiniboine BP (Day 4) (O) Breivogel, Bob Oregon Coast: Ponsler Wayside to Florence (O) Whittington, Joe Trails to Ales: Tryon Creek Krug, Regis 7 5 Canada: Assiniboine BP (Day 5) (O) Breivogel, Bob Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8 10 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 11 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 4.5 11 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 6 11 Powell Butte Ramble (AYM) Lau, Sandor Angora Peak Breunsbach, Rex 9 13 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg 5 5 Canada: Helens Lake (O) Breivogel, Bob Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom 5.5 11 Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne 6 11 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 11 Portland Street Ramble Shotola, Leslie 7.5 11 Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert 5 11 Canada: Wilcox Pass (O) Breivogel, Bob Opal Creek Solomon, Larry 7.1 9 Bull of the Woods BP (AYM) (Day 1) Reeder, M & Langenwalter, K Heritage Trees #7 (Alameda) Guyot, Tom 4 22 McNeil Point Auerbach, Mitch 9.5 6 Opal Creek (AYM) Clements, Reena Opal Creek (AYM) (co-leader) Kallmann, Paul Bull of the Woods BP (AYM) (Day 2) Reeder, M & Langenwalter, Franklin Ridge Smith, Sheri Alice 10.1 6 Lookout Mountain Bourdin, Sherry 10.4 3 Bull of the Woods BP (AYM) (Day 3) Reeder, M & Langenwalter, Portland Street Ramble Braem, David 8 11 Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob 9 11 Portland Street Ramble Ripps, Lisa 6 11 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 11 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 5.5 12 Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn 4.5 12 Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg 5 7 Whetstone Mountain Solomon, Larry 11 4 Families Rock Skills (F) Martin, Craig Portland Street Ramble Breunsbach, Rex 5.5 11 Portland Street Ramble Ripps, Lisa 7 11 Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry 7 11 Portland Street Ramble Shotola, Leslie 7.5 11 Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel 6 11 Portland Street Ramble Zigler, Marilyn 5.5 12 Indian Heaven: Junction & Blue Lake Meyer, Kent 9 6 Paradise Park-Ramona Falls Breunsbach, Rex 11 8

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 8/30 8/30 8/30 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/2 9/2 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/7 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/9 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10

Mt. Defiance Yocum Ridge Tom McCall Point (AYM) Newton Creek Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Multnomah Basin Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Clackamas River Camping Weekend (AYM) Herman Creek-Cascade Locks RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Ramona Falls TH to Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls TH to Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur TH to Elk Cove TH RTM: Top Spur TH to Elk Cove TH Clackamas River Camping Weekend (AYM) RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Elk Cove TH to Top Spur TH RTM: Elk Cove TH to Top Spur TH RTM: Ramona Falls TH to Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls TH to Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur TH to Elk Cove TH RTM: Top Spur TH to Elk Cove TH Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Clackamas River Camping Weekend (AYM) RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Cloud Cap to Timberline Lodge RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Elk Cove to Top Spur RTM: Ramona Falls TH to Timberline Lodge RTM: Ramona Falls TH to Timberline Lodge RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove RTM: Top Spur to Elk Cove Clackamas River Camping Weekend (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip

9 0 12 0 10 0 10 0 0 8 11 0 8 11 0 10 0 8 0 12 0 11 0 0 6 12 12 11 12 12 11 10 10 10 9 10

14.6 14.6 13 13 14 14 15 15 15.9 15.9 13 13 5.5 7 7.5 5 6 5 5.5 6 7 7.5 4

7 10 0 9 0 11 0 0 9 12 0 10 0

6 14 14 13 13 14.5 14.5 14 14 15 15 13.1 13.1 14 14 14 14 14 14 13.9 13.9 14 14 12 12 5.4

6 13 13 13 13 12 13 10 8 9 9 7 7 9

8 7 5.5 6 7 7.5 5 5 7.6 5.5 6 7 7.5 5.5

12 10 14.4 6

Miles Att

Eggers, Tom Stein, Bill Lau, Sandor Breunsbach, Rex Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Linza, Meg Lawson, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Zigler, Marilyn Reeder, Matt Zeps, David Linza, Meg Nair, Brett Foster, Dyanne Stein, Bill Krug, Regis Smith, Dan Boeger, Chris Huston, Aaron Gerald, Paul Harlson, Shane Evans, Kate Zuber, Joan Reeder, Matt Foster, Dyanne Stein, Bill Gerald, Paul Harlson, Shane Linza, Meg Nair, Brett Evans, Kate Zuber, Joan Boeger, Chris Huston, Aaron Krug, Regis Smith, Dan Frick, Ardel Reeder, Matt Krug, Regis Smith, Dan Linza, Meg Nair, Brett Foster, Dyanne Stein, Bill Gerald, Paul Harlson, Shane Evans, Kate Zuber, Joan Boeger, Chris Huston, Aaron Reeder, Matt Guyot, Tom Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Linza, Meg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert

Leader


page 74

Guyot, Tom Getgen, Richard Nelson, David Krug, Regis Nelson, David Selby, Jim Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Guyot, Tom Marlin, Kelly Smith, Sheri Alice Lau, Sandor Lincoln, Wayne Jenkins, Carolyn Breivogel, Bob Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Selby, Jim Getgen, Richard Nicksic, Cabe Foster, Dyanne Lau, Sandor Clements, Reena Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Trask, Jennifer Zigler, Marilyn Huber, Flora Breunsbach, Rex Selby, Jim Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom

Heritage Trees #8 (Portland Heights) Indian Heaven: Sawtooth Mountain Paradise Park Buck Peak Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Rodney Falls & Beacon Rock Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Harts Cove-Cascade Head Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Heritage Trees #9 (Sellwood) Indian Heaven: East Crater Trail Observation Peak Otter Beach (AYM) Indian Heaven: Indian Racetrack Umbrella Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tarbell Trail to Hidden Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Siouxon Creek Eagle Creek (High Bridge) Indian Heaven: Thomas/Junction/Blue Coyote Wall (AYM) Benson Plateau Powell Butte Lunar Eclipse (AYM) Powell Butte Lunar Eclipse (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wilson River Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elowah & Upper McCord Falls Mt. Hebo Dry Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Fish Creek Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

9/12 9/12 9/12 9/13 9/13 9/13 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/16 9/17 9/17 9/17 9/17 9/17 9/19 9/19 9/19 9/19 9/20 9/20 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/23 9/24 9/24 9/24 9/24 9/24 9/25 9/26 9/26 9/26 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/30 10/1 10/1 10/1 10/1 10/1 10/1 10/3 10/3 10/4 10/6 10/6 10/6 10/6 10/6 10/6 10/7 10/8 10/8

17 8 4 3 6 14 15 15 14 15 14 14 6 10 10 10 10 10 32 12 5 10 11 14 14 14 14 15 14 17 9 9 9 9 10 16 13 8 3 11 11 11 11 11 12 12 9 8 8 8 9 9 6 12 15 12 12 12 12 12 13 10 10 11

3.5 9 16.5 16 12.6 5.5 5.5 6 6 6 7 7.5 12 5.5 6 6.5 7 5.5 4 9.1 13 9 4.4 6 6 7 7.5 5 6 10 6 6 7 6 5.5 10.2 6.5 9 12.8 8 6 5.5 6 7 5.5 8 5.5 6 7 7.5 6 5.3 3 6.5 5 7.5 5.5 6 7 6 5 7 8 5.5

Miles Att

Leader

Date Trip 10/8 10/8 10/8 10/8 10/10 10/10 10/10 10/11 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/14 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/16 10/17 10/17 10/17 10/18 10/19 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/21 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/22 10/24 10/24 10/24 10/25 10/25 10/27 10/27 10/27 10/27 10/27 10/27 10/28 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/31 11/1 11/1 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/3

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lower Salmonberry Railway Vernonia Banks Linear Trail Tamanawas Falls (AYM) Larch Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Gales Creek-Storey Burn Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Serene Lake Loop Cairn Basin Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Vancouver History & Waterfront Walk Tilly Jane-Cloud Cap 4T Trail (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Salmon River Trail Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dry Creek Falls Riverside Trail of the Clackamas Timothy Lake (AYM) Dog Mountain Wauneka Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Huckleberry Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Table Mountain Upper McCord & Elowah Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail trips

9 10 10 10 10 10 12 8 8 9 8 8 8 6 10

8 4.5 5.5 6 7 7 7.2 5.5 7 5 6 7 6 5.4 9.7 3 7 13 13 13 13 12 12 12 7 6 7 6 6 7 7 4 3 5 12 12 12 11 11 12

9 11 11 11 11 11 11 10 9 9 9 9 9 9 6 10 6 14 4

13.8 8 5 5.5 6 7 6 8 5.5 5 6 7 7.5 6 12.5 12 12.6 5 8

7.2 11 4.5 5.8 6 7 7 7.5 10.6 5.5 7 6 7 7.5 5 6 4.2 9 3 5.5 6 6.8 7 7.5 5

10 10 10 11 6 3

6 6 7 5.3 10 6

Miles Att

Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Zigler, Marilyn Breunsbach, Rex Getgen, Richard Clements, Reena Evans, Kate Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Spiering, Tony Guyot, Tom Johnson, Megan Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Van Rossen, Daniel O’Brien, William Krug, Regis Bourdin, Sherry Selby, Jim Krug, Regis Lindahl, Buzz Braem, David Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Pandzik, Patty Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Huber, Flora Getgen, Richard Clements, Reena Nelson, David Young, Kirby Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Dewsnap, Bill Dodson, Tom Breunsbach, Rex Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Shotola, Leslie Smith, Robert

Leader 11/4 11/5 11/5 11/5 11/5 11/5 11/6 11/7 11/7 11/7 11/8 11/8 11/9 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/11 11/11 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/12 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/14 11/15 11/15 11/15 11/17 11/17 11/17 11/17 11/18 11/18 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/19 11/20 11/21 11/21 11/22 11/22 11/23 11/24 11/24 11/24 11/24 11/24 11/24 11/25 11/26 11/27 11/28 11/28 11/29 11/30

Hamilton Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Devils Peak-Hunchback Mountain Cape Horn Dog River Trail Wahkeena-Multnomah Loop (AYM) Lookout Mountain Nesika Linnton Loop Forest Park: BPA Road-Newton Road Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Street Ramble—4T Trail (F) Hardy Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Punchbowl Falls) Table Mountain Twin Lakes Wind Mountain Riverside Trail of the Clackamas (AYM) Street Ramble—St. Johns Bridge (F) Indian Point Observation Peak Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wind Mountain & Dog Mountain Washington Park/Forest Park (AYM) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park (BPA/Firelanes) Larch Mountain via Multnomah Falls Pittock Mansion Greenleaf Falls Table Mountain Wildwood-in-a-Day Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tom-Dick Mountain Latourell Falls Gumjuac-Badger Lake Loop Benson Plateau Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Estacada’s Eagle Creek Forest Park (AYM)

Date Trip

9 7 7 7 8 7 4 7 5 5 4 8 4 5 4 4 7 8 9 9 9 9 3 4 10 9 4 4 8 8 8 8 8 8 3 4 5 12 11 12

8.4 7.5 6 7 5 6 5.5 8.5 9 2.7 8.9 15 7.5 5.5 6 7 9.9 8 5.5 6 7 5 7.1 9.6 5.5 9 9 30.9 8 5.5 6 7 5 6 9 2.3 11.4 12.8 5 12

10.4 7 8 4 5.2 3 8.1 4 7.5 9 5.5 10 6 9 7 9 7 9 5 10 6 10

7.6 13 7.5 7 6 7 6 8 5 8 6 8 12.2 3 7.3 7 6.5 3

Miles Att

Steger, Paul Brown, Amy Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel O’Brien, William Selby, Jim Marlin, Kelly Mayfield, Kati Dodson, Tom Stein, Bill Russell, Adam Russell, Adam Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Stein, Bill Solomon, Larry Feller, Whit Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Huber, Flora Nair, Brett Nelson, David Breunsbach, Rex Miller, Sarah Einspruch, Eric Eskridge, Rick Dodson, Tom Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Solomon, Larry Nicksic, Cabe Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Solomon, Larry Bourdin, Sherry Goering, Nancy Breunsbach, Rex Stein, Bill Russell, Adam Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Ripps, Lisa Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Marlin, Kelly Krug, Regis Craycrat, Rick Selby, Jim Breunsbach, Rex Reeder, Matt

Leader

Legend: Att: Attendance SS: Snowshoe TT: Trail Tending RTM: Round-the-Mountain O=Outing AYM: 20s & 30s Mazamas F: Families


Mt. Hood from the McNeil Point shelter. Photo: Drew Lesch-Wragge

75


In Memoriam Mazama Members who passed away in 2015 | Mary Lou Bailey (1971) | Cameron Bangs (1990) | | Gary Beck (1969) | Donald Benedict (1950) | | Ralph Bunnell (1958) | Robert Dormaier (2015) | | Maria Dunlop (1940) | Michael Ferrante (1999) | | Ferenc Gabor (1983) | Dorotha Gibson (1956) | | Eb Giesecke (1948) | Priscilla Haugen (1949) | | Mildred Hubbert (1961) | Thomas Kennedy (1953) | | Dean Lee (1991) | Charles Lief (2008) | | Jim Lindemann (1976) | Dasan Marshall (2014) | | Kate McCarthy (2002) | James Miller (1965) | | Nancy Nash (1945) | Barbara Podesta (1940) | | Rick Posekany (1973) | Harvey Schmidt (1985) | | Don Watne (1983) | Joseph York (2010) | | Ferd Zurcher (1972) |

A climber on the summit of Mt. Hood. Photo: Tim Donner. Back cover: Stacy Reding at Horsethief Butte during ICS. Photo: Tyler Bax.

I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. –Henry David Thoreau



We Climb High


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