Mazama April Bulletin

mazama bulletin nesika klatawa sahale—we climb high The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

April 2013 • Vol. 95 • No. 4

Get Ready ...

by Bruce Yatvin

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s the calendar flips to April it’s time to start thinking seriously about a summer of getting HIGH ... in the mountains! Before you know it hundreds of enthusiastic climbers will descend on Mt. Hood with the goal of ascending it; why not join a Mazama climb and try for your summit!? With over 200 climbs on the schedule, you should be able to find plenty of the 16 Major Northwest Peaks, as well as the lesser known joys of Unicorn and Sahale Peaks or Broken Top. Mazama climb leaders have scheduled climbs all over Oregon and Washington and down into California and the level of difficulty spans the full range of climbing experience. For those first steps into the alpine environment, perhaps a Hiketo-the-Summit climb like South Sister or Mount St. Helens fits your plans. Recent BCEP grads will try for the South Side of Climbers make their way to the hogsback on a sunny Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams or the North Ridge of Middle Sister.

April morning. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Intermediate and advanced climbers will be seen scrambling up the high exposure of Mt. Washington and Three Fingered Jack. If you are interested in challenging the weather, distance and your abilities over several days, perhaps Mt. Olympus or the heights of Mt. Rainier are in your plans.

With so many climbs at all levels, with a little persistence you should find yourself on some fun climbs. All you need to do is go over the schedule and directions printed inside this Bulletin, pick your options for summit attempts, get some climb cards and properly submit them to the leaders. Remember that no cards should be postmarked until April 15. For updates and the most accurate options the online schedule is the most current. So start your planning and before you know it we should be seeing each other in the mountains!

Can you spot the climbers? Brad Farra and Nate Mullen at the top of the third gendarme during a February attempt on Yocum Ridge, Mt. Hood. Photo: Unknown climber on the Reid Glacier.

Executive Director’s Report Lee Davis Dear Members, Spring is in the air and it’s time to focus on last minute training and planning for prime climbing season in the Northwest.

We hope you see you all out hiking in the Gorge, helping with classes to brush up on skills and maybe even on our ever popular street rambles. April is a huge month for the Mazamas each year, with BCEP wrapping up, Advanced Rock in full swing and the summer climb schedule finally open! This year we also have Arno Ilgner coming to assist with our AR class and to teach falling, red-pointing and movement clinics. Right after that we have Andy Selters, author of our favorite glacier travel and crevasse rescue book coming for presentations and clinics.

In late February Kati Mayfield and I attended an American Alpine Club event in San Francisco, which celebrated the 50th anniversary of Americans on Everest.

We were pleased to also see Mazamas staff member Adam Baylor in attendance (appearing at the last minute with a VIP ticket provided to him by Mark Kroese, the new president of the American Alpine Club).

Kati and I sadly did not have VIP tickets but had an enjoyable time nonetheless. The event was in the warehouse headquarters of Mountain Hardwear and over 700 people were in attendance. This was a rare opportunity to meet and talk with the last surviving members of that intrepid expedition, as well as countless famous

climbers from all over the world.

Also in February, Adam Baylor and I attended a lobbying day in Olympia to support funding for Washington State Parks in coordination with the Washington Wilderness Recreation Coalition. We met with several Washington state representatives and senators and shared with them the importance of Washington State parks for our members recreation and well being, as well as for Mazamas programs.

I’m excited to announce that four pilot programs are in the works surrounding youth programming. Kati Mayfield is heading up these projects with a small task force and the pilots are occurring at no cost other than administrative support. We are working with Northwest Youth Corps on a multi-week program for high-school students, which would culminate in a climb of South Sister led by a Mazama climb leader. The MMC would be the daily meeting point for these activities. Bob Murphy, Justin Rotherham, Craig Martin and others are working together to create more family programs like the Winter Family Weekend. Adventure WILD is partnering with us to provide a two-week day camp for kids based out of the MMC in July as well. Finally, Dan Leone and Leanne Weiss are designing a modification of our Basic Rock Skill Builder oriented for teens and we hope to see that launch this summer. We plan to evaluate these partnered programs in the fall and will consider their

relevancy towards our mission as well as their scalability for future years.

As reported last month, we have replaced the former full-time Member Services position at Mazamas with two part-time positions. Adam Baylor is serving as our Member Services and Operations Manager, and Sarah Bradham is now our Marketing and Publications Manager. Sarah has worked for years with Mazamas as a contractor doing layout, graphic design and editing for the Mazama Bulletin, and recently for the Annual and Directory. She also has volunteered for several years to produce to fliers, t-shirts, merchandise and elections mailings for Mazamas. For those of you that don’t know Sarah, she’s past chairperson of the Education Committee, First Aid and BCEP sub-committees, and is a climb leader.

We’re very excited to have Sarah on board as an employee at Mazamas and look forward to the exciting changes in store for our publications and website.

Additionally we’ve hired Jamie Anderson in a limited part-time capacity as our Membership Secretary and Kati Mayfield continues to do an exemplary job as our new volunteer manager. My article last month in the Bulletin clarifies the missions for these positions around improvements in capacity, community engagement and value of membership. Mazamas staff is stronger than ever and we look forward to helping all of you get outside this year with Mazamas!

Upcoming Events & Classes ASI Application Period

The Advanced Snow & Ice application period will be from April 20–May 20. There will be two skills test dates TBD between May 21 and Memorial Day with notification of acceptance the first week of June.

Mail Climb Cards

Arno Ilgner Presentation & Clinics Presentation: April 16, 7–9 p.m. at the MMC Clinics: Various dates.

See page 16 for more information.

Uphill/Downhill Festival (TBD) April 21 at Mt. Hood Meadows

April 15

Learn more at: http://www.skihood.com/Eventsand-Teams/Calendar

Postmark your climb cards ON April 15 (not before) for the best chance of being accepted on climbs.

Andy Selters Presentation May 3, 7 p.m. at the MMC See page 17 for more information.

Adult CPR & AED Courses

This course offers a two-year certification cards from the American Heart Association, the nationally recognized authority in resuscitation and emergency cardiac care.

Register online at: https://fs16.formsite. com/mazamaseducation/form75/secure_ index.html April Course Dates • Wednesday, April 10, 6 p.m.–9 p.m.

• Wednesday, April 24, 6 p.m.–9 p.m.

May Course Dates • Saturday, May 4, 9 a.m.–Noon • Saturday, May 18, 9 a.m.–Noon • Wednesday, May 29, 6 p.m.–9 p.m.

April 2013—3

A Bar for Everyone

By Natalie Wessel, CSCS

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nergy bars, protein bars, meal bars … these conveniently-packaged food bombs are perfect for hikes and climbs. Some people like them as snacks; others use them as a meal replacement when the conditions in the backcountry make it bothersome to bring along anything else.

I’ll be honest up front—I’m not a fan of food bars, partly because I associate them with PowerBars and their factory-output shape and amazing ability to turn up frozen when I’m most hungry. So I decided to find out what bars other Mazamas are eating and try something new.

Bars with minimal ingredients: Kristin Bailie is excited about KIND bars. The tagline is: Real ingredients you can see and pronounce. Kristin enjoys the “super tasty nut combinations—some also feature coconut or chocolate.” She also loves Odwalla bars for similar reasons.

LARA Bars also fall into this “real food” category.

I sampled the Blueberry Muffin flavor and can see why people who don’t like bars would enjoy this brand. It was chewy with a bright blueberry flavor from the little bits of fruit intermixed with cashews and dates. The only other ingredients are blueberry and lemon juice and vanilla extract; six ingredients total. All in all, the bar is 190 calories with 8g of naturally-derived fat that left me feeling satiated.

Bars for energy with protein: Justin Rotterdam is a fan of PowerBar Triple Threat. He feels it gives him a steady stream of energy, and he enjoys the taste and texture. PowerBar is pitching it as an energy bar that tastes like a candy bar, for use before and during moderateintensity exercise like snowboarding and skating. How’s that for good marketing?

“The nuts, oat bran and 10–11g protein deliver nutritious, long lasting energy and musclebuilding power.”

Along the same lines, I tested the Honey Stinger protein bar in chocolate-coated peanut butter flavor. It packs a big punch of 20g of protein, which is valuable for hikers and climbers since protein can help build and maintain muscle. More important to me, protein (and fat) provides a feeling of fullness, which some carbohydrate-focused bars like Nature Valley’s granola bars miss. The Honey Stinger bar tasted OK, but the texture was kind of gummy and I bet it would freeze into an inedible piece of coal if not tucked into a warm pocket during an alpine climb.

Bars as a meal replacement: The Pro Bar is a popular selection for many of us, marketed as a “whole food meal bar” with organic ingredients. I tried Art’s Original Blend flavor, and was pleased with what I saw when I opened the package. This is one good-looking bar, with flecks of flax, colorful pieces of fruit, and different types of seeds and nuts and things. It tasted the best out of all of the other bars I tried. This is, however, not a bar for people on a diet looking for a snack. At 370 calories, 18g of fat, 48g of carbs, and 10g of protein, all in a 3oz size, the Pro Bar is indeed worthy of being called a meal, not a light snack.

Bars for people with food allergies: Gluten got you down? How about a Picky Bar, which is gluten and dairy free? The Oregon-based company was created by three pro endurance athletes, and at 200 calories with 7g of fat, 28g of carbs, and 7g of protein, this bar will keep you on your toes. I tried the Lauren’s Mega Nuts flavor.

It tasted very much like a Clif Bar (chewy, nutty, brown rice cereal), but unlike Clif Bars that sometimes stick to my teeth, the 2” x 2” flat square size was easy to bite.

This bar packs a lot into a small size, and I bet it travels well for ultralight backpackers.

All in all, I’m now convinced that there is a food bar for everyone, even those of us who haven’t like them in the past. For those of you who are still not convinced, I’d like to share Bruce Wyse’s famous banana muffin recipe, which I enjoyed many times during ICS last year.

I like that there is no butter or refined sugar. To quote Bruce, “They’re a couple ounces more than a commercial bar, but worth the weight and hold together well in a pack.”

Bruce Wyse’s Banana Muffins

Makes about 12 muffins. Approximately 150 calories each.

• 2 bananas • ½ cup peanut butter • 2 eggs • 3 tbsp honey • 2 tbsp olive oil • ½ cup yogurt • 1 ½ cups whole wheat flour • 1 tsp baking powder • 1 tsp baking soda • 2 tbsp wheat germ • ¼ cup powdered almonds or hazelnuts (if you don’t have a food processor Bob’s Red Mill sells it or use finely chopped nuts) • Optional ½ cup raisins or mini chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a mini loaf pan or muffin tin. In a medium-sized bowl combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, wheat germ, and powdered nuts. In a separate bowl mash bananas, add peanut butter, honey, oil, eggs, yogurt, mix until smooth.

Blend dry ingredients into wet. Add raisins or chocolate chips if using. Bake for 20-25 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool in pan for 5 minutes and remove to wire rack.

Volunteer Opportunities • April 2: Publications Committee Meeting—The Publications Committee is seeking additional members to help with Mazama Publications—the Mazama Annual, Bulletin, Mazama Blog and e-Newsletter. Candidates should be people who enjoy our publications and want to see them expand in interest and scope! Join our first Tuesday of the month meeting or contact Barry Maletzky at wldflr@ comcast.net if interested.

• Thursday, April 25: Ponderosa Restoration—Hey Central Oregonians, this one’s for you! Get involved in restoring the hardy, majestic Ponderosa pine to our forest ecosystem to celebrate Earth Day! Volunteers will assist 5th graders who will be potting 1,000 Ponderosa seedlings. Location: Three Rivers School, Sunriver (8:30–11:30 a.m.). Contact project organizer, Lee Stevenson at 541-604-4300 or lstevenson60@gmail.com.

• April 27: Yard work party at the MMC—It’s spring cleaning time at your Mazama Mountaineering Center and we’re looking for ten of you to pitch in from 9 a.m.–Noon on power washing some areas surrounding the building and spreading bark dust in

Contact Us

Kati Mayfield Volunteer Manager kati@mazamas.org

the plant beds. Donate your time and/ or equipment­—the supplies we need are: a power washer, a mulcher, work gloves, wheel barrows and rakes.

Contact Steve Polzel if interested, steve_polzel@hotmail.com.

• June 15: Trail Tending on Kings Mountain—Help clear the tangle of winter growth that threatens to bury this popular hiking trail. We need 10 people to help with this one-day event, contact Rick Pope, poper123@frontier. com, to sign up.

• August 8–11: Trail Tending on Mazama Trail—After a great turnout last year, Ray Sheldon will once again be leading a four-day effort to clear up the Mazama trail on Mt. Hood, March 8–11. Join us for all days or just one; camping will be available at the trailhead. Two days of work earns you a free NW Forest Pass! Contact Ray Sheldon for details and to sign up: rbshldn@pacifier.com.

You can find more information about these opportunities on the website, or at mazamasvolunteer.blogspot.com.

The Mazamas Blog celebrates the extraordinary climbing and hiking videos being made these days by club members. If you or a Mazama you know have a video you’d like to share, submit a link to the video, along with a short description, to mazamasonline@gmail.com.

Each month, we will feature one video as Video of the Month. This month’s winner is Andrew Holman’s outstanding piece entitled “Climb and Shoot.”

To see the video, visit the Mazamas Blog at mazamas.blogspot.com

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m.

Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. Noon—Mon. Noon Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Member Services and Operations Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing & Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Membership Secretary (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Max Rupert—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription price $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month.

If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month.

Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 70 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

April 2013—5

Interpreting the Climb Schedule Climb Grades Climbs are graded to indicate approximate experience and ability levels required. Grades are:

A: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, and self-arrest.

B: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, self-arrest, glacier travel, and roped climbing.

C: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, self-arrest, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, belaying and rappelling and low 5th-class rock climbing.

D: May require ice axe and crampon use on steep snow slopes, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, self-arrest, belaying, rappelling and 5th-class rock climbing.

E: Multi-pitch technical routes same as D but with a high degree of self-sufficiency and proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing high-angle leads, setting protection and anchors.

Other Codes: • + Indicates a pack in to a base camp on route • A: Adjacent climbs. May sign up for both (two climbs in the same area. To save on driving you may choose to sign up for both climbs) • C: For “Classic” Climbers (those of any age desiring a slower paced climb) • E: Exploratory (the leader has not climbed this route before) • F: Family Climbs. Slower pace and childfriendly • H: Hike-to-the-Summit. Moderate climbs for experienced hikers.

• L: Linked climbs. Must sign up for both.

• N: Novice. Climb leader is willing to take inexperienced climbers • P: Provisional climb • S: Ski Mountaineering climb • Y: Adventurous Young Mazamas (under 40) Grad Emphasis: The column labeled “Grad” helps 2013 class graduates determine the routes appropriate for their skill level and indicates that the leader is interested in taking these class grads on the climb. However, please note, these climbs are NOT limited to these class grads.

Departure and Return Times: To assist you in planning for the climb, we have included the

6 —Mazama Bulletin

estimated departure and return date and time.

For many of the climbs it is a simple AM or PM; leave in the morning, return in the evening. Some leaders have set more specific departure times. Please plan accordingly.

Size: This column shows you the planned climb team size.

Climb Cards Application for Climb Cards are sold at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, by mail or by telephone using a credit card. Cost of the card constitutes the climb fee. Member cards: $20; nonmember cards: $30. To order cards by mail: Mail check or money order for the total amount to Mazamas • 527 SE 43rd Ave., • Portland, OR 97215.

Signing Up for a Climb

Sign-up for a climb is by applying directly to the climb leader. A-, B- and C- grade sign-up is by mail only, using an Application for Climb Card (see below). B- and C-climb applicants should list recent climbing experience in spaces provided.

D- and E-grade sign-up is by telephone or e-mail with individual climb leaders. If accepted, an Application for Climb Card is required. Applicants should send complete lists of experience, formal instruction, etc. with the climb card. Climb leader contact information is on page 15.

To apply, fill out the card and mail in an envelope to the climb leader. (DO NOT send it to the Mazamas.) Make sure the return postcard portion of the card has proper postage affixed along with YOUR address.

Advance Sign-up Period To give each applicant the same time frame in which to apply for climbs, applications may not be mailed to leaders before April 15. Applications mailed prior to that date will either be refused or the applicant placed on the alternate list. We strongly encourage mailing your applications on April 15.

Multiple Applications for the Same Route During the advance sign-up period, applicants may apply for only one climb of the same grade on each peak chosen. Applicants applying for more than one climb of the same grade on the same peak either will not be accepted or become an alternate on climbs of that peak after the earliest climb applied for, whether or not accepted on the earlier climb.

Cancellations & Refunds If unable to participate on a climb after having been accepted, notify the climb leader immediately. “No shows” and those who cancel at the last minute deprive others of the opportunity to climb. IF YOU CANCEL AFTER HAVING BEEN ACCEPTED, YOUR CLIMB FEE IS NOT REFUNDABLE. If the climb is canceled or does not leave the trailhead, climb fees are refunded.

Climb Prospectus The climb leader will e-mail a prospectus to each party member about two weeks before the climb. It will contain such information as names and addresses of party members, equipment required, description of the route, experience required, travel instructions, meeting place, etc.

Transportation Transportation to and from the mountain is the responsibility of individual party members. The prospectus will include a list of party members as an aid to arranging carpooling.

Climb Regulations In case of accident, illness, or other incapacity, a climber must pay for his/her own medical and/or evacuation expenses, whether or not he/she has specifically authorized them. Note that all Mazama members have rescue insurance. Pets, firearms, alcoholic beverages and radios (other than ham radio transmitters, or weather radios) are not permitted on climbs or in base camps. No one will be permitted on the climb who has taken or used substances (including medication) that impair performance or judgment.

Climbers 17 years of age or under must furnish the climb leader with a written parental or guardian permission slip.

Climbers 14 years of age or under must be accompanied on the climb by an adult who must remain with them for the entirety of the climb or descend with them. Neither the leader nor the assistant leader of any climb shall be the responsible adult for a climber 14 years of age or younger. If the responsible adult descends, all climbers for whom he/she is responsible must descend as well.

Mount St. Helens Applications There is a $15 permit and $7 processing fee for each climber; the fees are nonrefundable once the permit is paid for with the park system. For most Mount St. Helens climbs: Send a $22 check to the climb leader with your application (please read the online notes section of the climb schedule to determine if the leader is making other permit arrangements). If you are not accepted on the climb, your $22 will be returned with your climb card. If you are accepted, the permit fee is non-refundable.

If the climb is canceled by the leader for any reason, you will not receive a refund. If you need to cancel your position on the climb, your permit can by transferred to another climber only with the permission of the leader.

Online Climb Schedule The online climb schedule is easily searchable—easy to find climbs of the grades your are interested in, the routes you want to climb, or the climb leaders you want to climb with. To search use the search box named “Show me.” Start typing your search criteria in the field, and the data will

immediately be filtered down to your criteria. For example, if you type Mt. Hood into the box, you will only see the Mt. Hood climbs on the schedule. If you want to find a climb led by a particular leader, just type the leader’s name into the box and you will see only the climbs that leader has scheduled. If you want to see all B-grade climbs, type “B” into the climb grade search box.

The online climb schedule will be the most up-to-date schedule for the climb season. As climbs fill up, climb leaders will update the climb status to “Full” or “Alternates only.” If a climb leader needs to cancel a climb, they will update the climb status to “Cancelled.” Later in the season when you are looking for a climb, search by the criteria “Open” or “Alternates only.”

This will filter out all the full and cancelled climbs and provide you with a list of climbs available.

Craig Martin climbs up a short ice section on the Jefferson Park Glacier on Mt. Jefferson. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Employee Garage Sale April 5–7 Sale Hours: Fri., 10 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat., 10 a.m.–6 p.m., & Sun., Noon–5 p.m.

Outdoor professionals and employees bring in their high quality, lightly used gear to sell at a fair price. There will also be demo skis available for sale beginning this weekend. Our current adult alpine rental skis and boots will also be for sale as we are upgrading our equipment.

1510 NE 37th (37th & Broadway) • 503-288-6768 • mountainshop.net April 2013—7

It’s time This climb sampler is designed to give you brief descriptions of several of the mountains that are on the climb schedule for 2013. To learn more about all the mountains and routes on the schedule, we recommend utilizing the numerous guidebooks available in the Mazama Library.

The Tatoosh, various peaks and routes

In Rainier National Park along the park’s southern boundary and very close to Mt. Rainier lies a prominent eastwest subrange called the Tatoosh. This range extends from Tatoosh Peak itself westward to Eagle and Chutla Peaks.

The summits of this range are very popular because they are easily accessible, require moderate technical skills, and when the weather is nice, provide fabulous views of Mt. Rainier.

While Tatoosh Peak and Stevens Peak on the east end of the range are seldom climbed, Unicorn, The Castle and Pinnacle Peak are very popular. Slightly less popular are Boundary, Lane, Plummer, Wahpenayo, Chutla, and Eagle. Maintained trails lead close to the tops of some of these peaks while the rest have 3rd and 4th class scramble routes, and it is possible in a two-day backcountry weekend to climb all the peaks from Unicorn to Eagle. If you desire more excitement than a scramble, Unicorn Peak has short routes on the summit block that are rated up to 5.6 as does The Castle, and the east ridge of Pinnacle is a long single pitch 5.4 rock climb. While Lane Peak’s main route is a scramble, there are several steep multipitch snow couloirs on the north side of the peak that can be climbed in winter or early season. The best known of these routes is called The Zipper. All in all, the Tatoosh are hard to beat for their alpine environment, mixed snow and rock routes, and gorgeous mountain scenery.

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Mt. Hood, various routes (11,240 ft.)

The route choices on Mt. Hood are numerous and this year climb leaders will be offering seven routes up several sides of the mountain, including the standard Old Chute, the more difficult Wy’east route and the Reid Glacier. No matter which route you choose, you will find technical challenges along the way to the summit. If you want to avoid the crowds, look for a weekday climb of the peak.

Mt. Adams, South Side or Mazama Glacier (12,276 ft.)

The South Side route on Mt. Adams is a high, gentle climb, great for beginning climbers who want an overnight trip with fewer people and a more wilderness feel than Mt. Hood. You will encounter little technical difficulty on this South Side route, but you will get to try your hand at camping around 9,000 ft., and using crampons and an ice axe. The Mazama Glacier route offers a bit more of a technical challenge and you may encounter snow slopes of up to 35-40 degrees, along with open crevasses.

Del Campo Peak, SW Buttress (6,610 ft.)

Del Campo Peak is among the peaks in the Monte Cristo range. It has a moderate approach over snow in early season, or heather and rock in the summer. The summit pinnacle is a 3rd class scramble. The approach is through a historic mining area and many climbers choose to camp at Foggy Lake below Del Campo. Gothic Peak is often climbed on the same trip.

to Climb!

Mt. Stuart, various routes (9,415 ft.)

Mt. Stuart, one of the major granite structures in North America, is the second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington State.

It is located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, which is known for its ruggedness, craggy peaks, glaciated valleys, granite walls and lakes. Mt. Stuart offers some of the best mountaineering challenges in the Pacific Northwest. The couloirs on south side routes offer options for beginners and novice climbers. The standard route, which is also the most traveled on the mountain, is Cascadian Couloir. The approach from the south side involves hiking up some 2,000 feet to Longs Pass and losing almost all that elevation to the campsite at the basin next to Ingalls Creek. From Ingalls Creek it’s 5,000 feet of gain to the summit. The last portion of which is some great scrambling on granite slabs. The summit, being the highest in the area, offers some great panorama views of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Cascadian Couloir is also used as a descent route for north side routes. The north side routes are technical routes and attract advanced climbers. Most notable routes are the West Ridge (Grade II, 5.4) and North Ridge (Grade III to IV, 5.4 to 5.9); the latter is considered among the 50 classic routes in North America.

Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier (7,969 ft.)

A long approach hike through a rain forest along the Hoh River, ascent through a rugged alpine terrain, glacier travel on glaciers with distinct characteristics, a summit pinnacle with class 4 and class 5 rock climbing routes and great views of the Olympic Mountain Range­—this climb has it all. The road to Mt. Olympus isn’t easy.

An 18-mile approach to base camp gives this climbing adventure an expedition feel. Most climbing parties break the trip up with two days for the approach, one long summit day, and the trek out from base camp in one or two days. Black bears and mountain goats are among the other wildlife inhabitants in the forest. Glacier Meadows serves as a basecamp for most of the summit approaches.

The climbing route goes through the Blue Glacier, which is the

largest glacier in the Olympic Range. Late in the season it’s mostly ice, which provide a unique experience of glacier travel over solid icy glacier in the Pacific Northwest. The final section of the climb is a summit pinnacle. The standard approach is class 4 scramble but there are also class 5 routes for parties looking for an additional challenge. The total elevation gain from trailhead to the summit is over 7,000 feet.

Sahale Peak, various routes (8,680 ft.)

Sahale Peak is the most popular climb in the North Cascade National Park. There are two standard routes. On the trail of both routes Johannesburg Peak and glaciers on its steep flanks provide a dramatic background scene. The Cascade Pass/Sahale Arm route offers a beautiful and well-maintained trail. There is a high altitude campsite on that route at 7,000 feet at the base of Sahale Glacier with great views. After moderate glacier travel, the summit pinnacle is an easy 4th-class climb. The views from the top provide a great scene with neighboring Boston Peak, Forbidden Peak, Johannesburg Peak, Sharkfin Tower and others. The other approach to Sahale Peak is via Boston Basin, which is far less crowded than Cascade Pass trail but provides a pristine high alpine meadows with streams and small water falls all around.

From top left: Jason Lee hikes through some rime ice below Crater Rock on Mt Hood.

Ryan Cupp rests for an early morning ascent of the North Face of Mt Shuksan.

Karin Mullendorf climbs the summit block of Mt Olympus Steve Heikkila surveys the Upper Curtis Glacier on the way to camp on Mt. Shuksan, Photos: Andrew Holman.

April 2013—9

2013 Climb Schedule Dep. Ret. 04/27–AM 04/28–PM 04/28–12AM 04/28–PM 05/01–AM 05/01–PM 05/02–11PM 05/03–PM 05/03–PM 05/04–PM 05/04–AM 05/04–PM 05/03–10PM 05/04–6PM 05/04–AM 05/04–PM 05/04–AM 05/04–PM 05/04–AM 05/05–PM 05/04–AM 05/05–PM 05/04–AM 05/05–PM 05/07–1AM 05/07–3PM 05/07–AM 05/08–PM 05/09–PM 05/10–PM 05/11–AM 05/11–PM 05/10–PM 05/12–12PM 05/11–AM 05/11–PM 05/10–PM 05/11–PM 05/11–AM 05/12–PM 05/12–AM 05/13–PM 05/12–AM 05/12–PM 05/11–6AM 05/12–10AM 05/11–2PM 05/12–PM 05/12–PM 05/13–PM 05/13–AM 05/13–PM 05/15–AM 05/17–PM 05/17–AM 05/17–PM 05/17–PM 05/18–PM 05/18–AM 05/18–PM 05/18–AM 05/19–PM 05/19–AM 05/19–PM 05/18–AM 05/19–PM 05/19–AM 05/20–PM 05/22–12AM 05/22–2PM 05/24–AM 05/24–PM 05/24–PM 05/25–PM 05/25–AM 05/26–PM 05/26–AM 0/26–PM 05/24–2PM 05/27–PM 05/25–10AM 05/27–PM 05/25–PM 05/27–PM 05/24–PM 05/27–PM 05/25–AM 05/27–PM 05/26–AM 05/27–PM 08/26–AM 08/27–PM 05/26–AM 05/27–PM 05/26–AM 05/29–PM 05/28–12PM 05/29–8PM 05/29–AM 05/30–PM 06/01–AM 06/01–PM 06/01–AM 06/03–PM 06/01–PM 06/02–PM 06/01–PM 06/02–PM 06/01–AM 06/03–PM 06/01–AM 06/02–PM 06/04–AM 06/05–PM 06/06–12AM 06/06–2PM 06/06–PM 06/09–PM 06/07–PM 06/09–PM 06/07–AM 06/09–PM 06/07–PM 06/09–PM 06/07–5PM 06/07–PM 06/06–AM 06/09–PM 06/07–PM 06/08–PM 06/08–AM 06/08–PM 06/08–AM 06/09–PM 06/08–AM 06/09–PM 06/09–AM 06/09–PM

10 —Mazama Bulletin

Peak, Route Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, Circumnavigation Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, Sunshine Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Diamond Peak, South Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, Ladd Glacier Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hood, Wy’east Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek - Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Shasta, Cascade Gulch Shastina, Cascade Gulch The Brothers, South Couloir / Lena Lake Mt. Baker, North Ridge Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall South Sister, Devil’s Lake South Sister, Prouty Glacier Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Shuksan, White Salmon Glacier Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier - North Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute

Grade & Codes B+ (BCEP) C (BCEP)(ICS) A (BCEP) B(P) (BCEP)(ICS) A (BCEP) A B (BCEP) A (BCEP) C(S)(E) B+ (BCEP) A (BCEP) C+(E) (ICS) B B B (BCEP)(ICS) A (BCEP) A (BCEP) A (BCEP) A(S)(E) A+ (BCEP) B (BCEP) A (BCEP) D+ (ICS)(ASI) C (ICS)(ASI) A (BCEP) C (ICS)(ASI) B B (BCEP) C C (ICS) B+ (BCEP) A C+(E) (ICS) B B B (BCEP) A A+ (BCEP) B C+ (ICS) B+(E) B+(E) (BCEP)(ICS) D+(E) (ASI) D+ (AR) A+ (BCEP) B+(E) (BCEP)(ICS) B (ICS) B+ B B A B+(E) B A (BCEP) C+(E) (ICS) B+(N)(E) (BCEP)(ICS) A(C)(N)(P) (BCEP) B B+(E) A(E) B(S)(E) (BCEP) A (L #(L #155)) B (BCEP) C+(E) (ICS) B (BCEP) B A (BCEP) B+ (BCEP) B

Leader Ken Searl Darrell Weston Bob Breivogel Larry Beck Chris Kruell Steve Warner Dick Bronder Patrice Cook Preston Corless Daniel Bailey Robert Joy Jeff Welter Tim Scott Bruce Yatvin Gary Bishop Greg Willmarth Andrew Bodien George Shay Ryan Christie Daniel Bailey Richard Caldwell Patrice Cook Glenn Widener Darrell Weston Donna Vandall John Godino Bruce Yatvin Eileen Kiely Chris Kruell Bob Breivogel Daniel Bailey Richard Caldwell Steve Heikkila Amy Mendenhall Tim Scott Patrice Cook Carol Bryan Daniel Bailey Steve Warner Bob Breivogel Robert Joy Azure Olson Jeff Welter Thomas Miller Greg Willmarth Eileen Kiely Lisa Ripps Ken Searl Shirley Welch Amy Mendenhall Amy Mendenhall Bruce Yatvin Carol Bryan Lynne Pedersen Glenn Widener Tian Lan Rayce Boucher Tim Scott Amy Mendenhall Kevin Clark Jon Major Doug Wilson Bob Breivogel Jeff Welter Matt Carter Darrell Weston Daniel Bailey Bill McLoughlin Greg Willmarth

Spots Status 0 Full 9 Open 9 Open 4 Open 10 Open 11 Open 8 Open 10 Open 7 Open 0 Alternates 6 Open 7 Open 11 Open 7 Open 9 Open 11 Open 7 Open 10 Open 6 Open 6 Open 11 Open 9 Open 5 Open 3 Open 7 Open 6 Open 7 Open 7 Open 4 Open 7 Open 0 Alternates 11 Open 5 Open 7 Open 11 Open 7 Open 7 Open 7 Open 9 Open 9 Open 6 Open 5 Open 6 Open 5 Open 11 Open 7 Open 5 Open 7 Open 6 Open 7 Open 7 Open 7 Open 7 Open 7 Open 8 Open 7 Open 7 Open 11 Open 6 Open 7 Open 7 Open 7 Open 9 Open 7 Open 10 Open 11 Open 7 Open 0 Alternates 7 Open

# 324 263 127 171 74 75 87 105 205 70 89 211 265 34 79 31 118 121 177 1 58 104 261 264 161 237 39 92 49 126 6 59 152 14 266 106 195 9 76 125 141 189 212 240 44 95 277 64 175 17 11 18 196 204 232 247 48 267 2 62 99 124 137 213 251 275 12 43 46

Dep. Ret. 06/09–AM 06/09–PM 06/08–5PM 06/09–PM 06/07–PM 06/09–PM 06/12–AM 06/15–PM 06/14–AM 06/14–PM 06/14–AM 06/15–PM 06/15–AM 06/16–PM 06/16–AM 06/16–PM 06/15–PM 06/16–PM 06/15–AM 06/16–PM 06/16–AM 06/19–PM 06/19–12AM 06/19–2PM 06/21–AM 06/23–PM 06/21–AM 06/23–PM 06/21–6PM 06/23–AM 06/21–PM 06/22–PM 06/21–PM 06/22–PM 06/21–AM 06/23–PM 06/22–PM 06/22–PM 06/22–AM 06/24–PM 06/23–AM 06/23–PM 06/22–PM 06/23–PM 06/22–AM 06/23–PM 06/24–AM 06/27–PM 06/28–AM 06/28–PM 06/28–AM 06/30–PM 06/28–PM 06/30–PM 06/28–AM 06/30–PM 06/28–AM 06/29–PM 06/28–PM 06/30–PM 06/28–PM 06/30–PM 06/30–5AM 06/30–3PM 06/28–AM 06/30–PM 06/28–PM 07/01–PM 06/29–AM 06/30–PM

Peak, Route Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. Angeles, Switchback Trail Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute North Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Hood, Old Chute North Sister, SE Ridge South Sister, Prouty Glacier Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Adams, Avalanche-White Salmon Glacier Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver South Sister, Devil’s Lake Middle Sister, SE Ridge Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier The Brothers, South Couloir / Lena Lake Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge

Grade & Codes B B (BCEP) A (L #124) B+(E) A (BCEP) B (BCEP) A (BCEP) A (BCEP) B (BCEP)(ICS) C+(E) (ICS) C+ B C+ (ICS) B+(E) (ICS) B (BCEP) B(P) (BCEP) (A #147) B (BCEP) D+(E) (ASI) B (BCEP)(ICS) C+ (ICS) B (BCEP)(ICS) B(P) (BCEP) (A #146) D+(E) C+ A(H) A+(C)(P)(E) (BCEP) B (BCEP) (L #98) B+(E) B+ D+(E) (ICS)(AR)(ASI) B (BCEP) (L #97) A(Y) (BCEP)(ICS) C+(E) (ICS) C+(E) (ICS) A (BCEP)

Hannah Seebach makes her way up Middle Sister. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Leader Steve Warner Bob Breivogel Doug Wilson Andrew Bodien Hugh Brown Gary Bishop Ken Searl Eileen Kiely George Shay Steve Heikkila Marty Scott Tim Scott Bill McLoughlin Daniel Bailey Eileen Kiely Jay Satak Tom Elmer Jeff Welter George Shay Bob Breivogel John Meckel Jay Satak Preston Corless Ken Searl Jill Kellogg Rayce Boucher Doug Wilson Kevin Clark Donna Vandall Azure Olson James Jula Mark Montgomery Tian Lan Tim Scott Lisa Ripps

Spots Status 9 Open 9 Open 7 Open 5 Open 6 Open 9 Open 11 Open 6 Open 10 Open 5 Open 7 Open 11 Open 0 Full 7 Open 5 Open 8 Open 7 Open 6 Open 10 Open 7 Open 8 Open 8 Open 5 Open 7 Open 7 Open 5 Open 6 Open 7 Open 7 Open 5 Open 5 Open 11 Open 7 Open 7 Open 10 Open

# 77 138 155 117 186 80 65 94 122 153 140 268 7 22 93 146 181 214 123 139 143 147 206 66 35 50 97 134 162 190 98 244 248 256 276

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots Status

#

07/04–AM 07/04–AM 07/04–AM 07/04–AM 07/05–AM 07/05–AM 07/05–AM 07/05–AM 07/04–AM 07/06–AM 07/11–AM 07/12–AM 07/12–AM 07/12–AM 07/11–PM 07/12–AM 07/13–AM 07/12–AM 07/12–AM 07/16–AM 07/17–AM 07/18–AM 07/19–AM 07/17–PM 07/19–AM 07/19–PM 07/18–PM 07/20–AM 07/19–4PM 07/19–AM 07/21–AM

07/06–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/06–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/07–PM 07/12–PM 07/14–PM 07/14–PM 07/14–PM 07/14–PM 07/15–PM 07/14–PM 07/14–PM 07/14–PM 07/17–PM 07/20–PM 07/21–PM 07/20–PM 07/21–AM 07/21–PM 07/20–PM 07/21–PM 07/21–PM 07/22–PM 07/21–PM 07/23–PM

Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Dragontail Peak, West Ridge Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Constance, College Route / South Chute Kings Peak, Henry’s Fork Little Annapurna, North Slope Mt. Adams, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Snowking Mountain, Kindy Ridge Mt. Constance, SE Face v/ S. Fork Tunnel Cr. Mt. Buckner, North Face Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver The Tooth, South Face Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier Mt. Baker, North Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Chiwawa Mountain, Red Mountain Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier

B+ (BCEP) B+(E) (L #179 and 185) B+ (L #178 and 185) D+(E) (ICS) B+(E) (BCEP) B+(E) B+ (ICS) A+ A+(E) (L #178 and 179) A B (BCEP) C+(E) (ICS) A+(E) (BCEP) C+ (ICS) D+(E) (ASI) C+ (ICS) A+ (BCEP) B (BCEP)(ICS) C+ (ICS) D(P) (ICS)(AR) C+ C+(E) (ICS) A+ D+(E) (ICS) D+(E) (ICS)(ASI) A (BCEP) C+(E) (ICS) A (BCEP) B+ B+ (BCEP)(ICS) B+

Eileen Kiely Ryan Christie Ryan Christie Jeff Welter Daniel Bailey Greg Willmarth Bob Breivogel Ken Searl Ryan Christie Steve Warner Doug Couch Gary Ballou Jon Major Tom Elmer Tim Scott Bill McLoughlin Lynne Pedersen George Shay Darrell Weston Rayce Boucher Greg Willmarth Daniel Bailey Jill Kellogg Chris Kruell Steve Heikkila Lori Freeman Andrew Bodien Dick Bronder Bob Breivogel Matt Carter Amy Mendenhall

7 6 6 6 0 6 9 6 6 11 7 1 7 7 3 0 7 10 7 5 6 0 7 3 5 10 5 11 7 8 7

107 178 179 215 16 52 148 182 185 78 183 4 100 180 257 3 114 209 274 51 26 19 41 45 154 165 249 88 135 252 8

After hiking the first 4 miles in mountaineering boots, Jeanine Brown decides to switch to her camp shoes for the rest of the hike into Mt. Olympus. Andrew Holman.

Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Full Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

Brad Farra attempting to sling the first gendarme on Yocum Ridge for a rappel. Photo: Nate Mullen.

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots Status

#

07/20–AM 07/23–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–AM 07/26–PM 07/26–AM 07/27–AM 07/28–AM 07/26–PM 07/27–AM 07/29–AM 07/30–AM 07/31–PM 08/02–AM 08/02–AM 08/02–AM 08/02–AM 08/04–AM 08/06–AM 08/08–AM 08/09–AM 08/09–AM 08/09–AM 08/09–AM 08/08–AM 08/09–AM 08/09–AM 08/08–AM 08/08–3PM 08/10–AM 08/10–AM 08/12–AM 08/14–AM 08/13–7AM 08/15–PM 08/14–AM 08/14–PM 08/15–PM 08/16–1AM 08/16–PM 08/14–AM 08/15–PM 08/17–AM 08/20–AM 08/18–AM 08/21–AM 08/22–AM 08/21–AM 08/22–PM 08/23–AM 08/23–1AM 08/23–PM 08/23–AM 08/23–AM 08/23–PM 08/23–5PM 08/22–PM 08/22–1PM 08/23–AM 08/24–AM 08/24–AM 08/23–PM 08/28–AM 08/28–AM 08/29–AM 08/30–AM 08/30–AM 08/30–AM 08/30–PM 08/30–9AM 08/30–AM

07/24–PM 07/24–PM 07/26–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/27–PM 07/27–PM 07/28–PM 07/29–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/28–PM 07/29–PM 08/01–PM 08/03–PM 08/04–PM 08/03–PM 08/03–PM 08/04–PM 08/04–PM 08/07–PM 08/12–PM 08/11–PM 08/11–PM 08/11–PM 08/11–PM 08/12–PM 08/10–PM 08/11–PM 08/12–11PM 08/12–10PM 08/16–PM 08/14–PM 08/14–PM 08/18–PM 08/16–PM 08/18–PM 08/18–PM 08/19–PM 08/18–PM 08/18–7PM 08/17–PM 08/18–PM 08/19–PM 08/18–PM 08/20–PM 08/24–PM 08/25–PM 08/22–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–10PM 08/24–PM 08/25–PM 08/24–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–10PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/25–PM 08/28–PM 08/28–PM 09/01–PM 08/30–PM 08/31–PM 09/01–PM 09/01–AM 09/01–PM 09/02–PM

Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Union Peak, Standard Route Bacon Peak, Southwest Route Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Bailey, Standard Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Gunn Peak, Standard South Sister, Green Lakes Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Broken Top, Green Lakes - NW Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard Route Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Mt. Wow, SW Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mt. Stuart, North Ridge Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Dome Peak, Dome Glacier Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Gunsight Peak, SW Face Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Black Peak, South Route Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Sinister Peak, North Face Mt. Logan, Fremont Glacier Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Abiel Peak and Tinkham Peak, PCT Route Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Dollar Lake Peak, North Ridge Guye Peak, North Route Cusick Mountain, North Ridge Luna Peak, Luna Col Three Fingers Mountain, South Peak Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes - NW Ridge Church Mountain, Church Mt Trail Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Snoqualmie Mountain, South Ridge Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm - Cascade Pass Mt. Buckner, North Face Inspiration Peak, South Face Red Mountain, SW Slope Mt. Larrabee, SW Route Diamond Peak, South Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Mt. Angeles, Switchback Trail Mt. Washington, North Ridge Vesper Peak, North Face Mt. Ellinor, Summertime Route Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Black Peak, South Route Mt. Maude, South Shoulder

C+ (BCEP)(ICS) A(C)(H)(N) B B+ (ICS) A+(F) A (BCEP) A(E) (A #227 and 228) D+ (ICS)(AR) B+(P) (BCEP)(ICS) A(E) (A #226 and 228) B+(E) A+ (BCEP)(ICS) A(E) (A #226 and 227) C(E) (ICS)(ASI) C+ B(E) A+ (BCEP)(ICS) (L #145) A+ (BCEP) B+ B (BCEP)(ICS) (L #144) C(P) B+(P) (ICS) (L #239) C+ (ICS)(AR) C+ (BCEP) B(N) (BCEP) (L #85) B+(E) (BCEP)(ICS) C+(E) A (BCEP)(ICS) A(N)(E) (BCEP) (L #84) D+ (ICS)(AR) (L #238) E+(E) (AR) C+ C+(E) D+ B+(E) (A #218 and 219) C+ D(E) (AR) (L #60) E+(E) (A #208 and 219) C+ B(E) (L #47) B+ A(H) (BCEP) C+(E) (A #208 and 218) B+(E) A(N) (BCEP) A(C)(E) (A #158) C+ (ICS)(AR) A+(C) (L #128) A(C)(E) (A #157) A+(C)(E) (L #129) C+(E) B+(E) (BCEP) D+(E) (ICS)(AR) B+ (L #270) A(E) (A #234) A+(H) A(E) (L #224) B+ (BCEP)(ICS) D+(E) (ASI) E+(E) (AR) A(E) (L #202) A(E) (A #136) A(N)(E) (BCEP) A+ (L #119) A(C) (A #150) C (BCEP)(ICS) E(P) (AR) (L #279) A(C) (A #149) C (ICS) C+ (ICS) B B+ B+(E) (L #199)

Eileen Kiely George Cummings John Godino Gary Ballou Richard Caldwell Patrice Cook Robert Caldwell Steve Heikkila Larry Beck Robert Caldwell Tim Scott Darrell Weston Robert Caldwell Carol Bryan Chris Kruell Robert Joy John Meckel Lori Freeman Matt Carter John Meckel Rayce Boucher Lisa Brady Daniel Bailey Bill McLoughlin Dick Bronder Jon Major Hugh Brown George Shay Dick Bronder Gary Ballou Glenn Widener Bruce Yatvin Andrew Bodien Shirley Welch Preston Corless Matt Carter Chris Kruell Preston Corless Amy Mendenhall Kevin Clark Vaqas Malik Lori Freeman Preston Corless Tim Scott Lisa Ripps Ray Sheldon Daniel Bailey Joe Whittington Ray Sheldon Joe Whittington Eugene Lewins Bruce Yatvin Vaqas Malik James Jula Bob Breivogel Lori Freeman Doug Wilson Lynne Pedersen Jeff Welter Glenn Widener Doug Wilson Bob Breivogel Gary Beck James Jula Ray Sheldon Ellen Gradison Rayce Boucher Ray Sheldon Gary Ballou Richard Caldwell Gary Bishop Robert Joy Doug Wilson

7 7 9 4 11 8 5 5 6 5 7 11 5 7 2 6 8 10 6 8 5 4 0 0 9 7 7 10 9 4 3 7 7 3 6 6 4 6 7 4 6 10 6 7 9 11 0 11 11 11 4 7 5 6 9 10 7 5 6 3 7 9 7 6 11 7 5 11 4 11 9 6 7

96 217 235 15 57 108 226 246 172 227 258 269 228 197 73 142 144 166 254 145 53 238 24 36 84 101 188 210 85 239 262 32 116 176 208 253 47 218 5 60 109 167 219 259 278 157 72 129 158 128 225 42 110 119 136 168 202 203 216 260 224 234 255 270 149 230 54 150 30 55 81 90 198

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Full Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

April 2013—13

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

08/29–PM 08/31–PM Matterhorn and Sacajawea Peaks, Ice Lake A+(Y)(E) 08/29–AM 09/01–PM Sperry Peak, NW Ridge (Sperry) A+(P)(E) (L #54) 08/31–AM 09/02–PM Mt. Stuart, West Ridge D+(E) (AR) 08/30–AM 09/02–PM Seven Fingered Jack, Southwest Slope B+(E) (L #198) 09/02–AM 09/02–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A(H) 09/05–AM 09/05–PM Plummer Peak, Standard Route A(C)(F) 09/06–AM 09/08–PM North Sister, South Ridge C+(E) (ICS)(AR) 09/06–AM 09/09–PM Elkhorn Peak (Wallowas), NE ridge A+(C)(E) (L #131) 09/06–AM 09/08–PM Mt. Maude, South Shoulder B+(E) (L #164) 09/06–PM 09/07–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(C) 09/08–AM 09/08–PM Mt. Washington, North Ridge C 09/06–AM 09/09–PM Glacier Mountain, SE Ridge A(C)(E) (L #130) 09/06–AM 09/08–PM Seven Fingered Jack, Southwest Slope B+ (L #163) 09/09–AM 09/12–PM South Early Winter Spire, South Arete E (L #193) 09/09–AM 09/12–PM North Early Winter Spire, South Face E (L #194) 09/12–AM 09/14–PM Mt. Stone, West Ridge B(E) 09/13–AM 09/16–PM Del Campo Peak, South Gully B+(P)(E) (L #280) 09/13–AM 09/15–PM Diamond Peak, South Ridge A (L #68) 09/14–AM 09/14–PM Mt. Ellinor & Mt. Washington, Traverse B (BCEP) 09/13–PM 09/14–PM Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats A(H) 09/12–PM 09/15–PM Mt. Maude, South Shoulder B(E) 09/13–AM 09/15–PM Gilbert Peak (Curtis-Gilbert), Klickton Divide A+(E) 09/13–PM 09/15–PM Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek A(E) 09/13–AM 09/15–PM Liberty Bell, Beckey Route D (ICS)(AR) (A #272) 09/15–AM 09/15–PM Broken Top, Green Lakes - NW Ridge B 09/13–AM 09/15–PM Mt. Yoran, Standard Route A (L #67) 09/14–AM 09/15–PM Ingalls Peak, South Face D+(E) (ICS)(AR) 09/14–AM 09/15–PM North Sister, South Ridge C 09/13–AM 09/15–PM South Early Winter Spire, South Arete E (ICS)(AR) (A #271) 09/13–AM 09/16–PM Gothic Peak, East Side B+(P)(E) (L #56) 09/19–AM 09/19–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A(H) 09/19–PM 09/22–PM Yellow Aster Butte, Yellow Aster Meadows A+(E) (L #200) 09/19–AM 09/22–PM Mt. Berge & Mt. Buck, Buck Cr. Tr./ High Pass B+ (BCEP) 09/20–PM 09/22–PM Mt. Pilchuck, Bathtub Lakes A(E) 09/20–AM 09/22–PM Sherpa Peak, South Side B+(E) (ICS) 09/20–PM 09/21–PM Mt. Washington, North Ridge C (BCEP) 09/20–AM 09/22–PM Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge B+(E) (L #201) 09/22–AM 09/22–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(H) 09/21–5AM 09/23–9PM Del Campo Peak, South Gully B+ 09/22–AM 09/22–PM Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge C (ICS) 09/28–AM 09/28–PM Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route B (BCEP) 09/27–PM 09/29–PM Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall D (ICS)(AR) 09/28–AM 09/29–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A 09/29–AM 09/29–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A(N) (BCEP) 10/04–AM 10/06–PM Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route B (BCEP) (L #37) 10/04–AM 10/06–PM Mt. Bailey, Standard A (BCEP) (L #33) 10/11–PM 10/13–PM Mt. Washington, North Ridge C (BCEP) (L #192) 10/12–AM 10/13–PM Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route B(E) 10/11–PM 10/13–PM Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge C (BCEP) (L #191) 10/12–AM 10/13–PM Mt. Baker, Coleman Glacier Headwall E+ 10/19–AM 10/20–PM Lemei-Bird-Sawtooth Traverse, South to North A+(E) (BCEP)

Leader

Spots Status

#

Andrew Bodien Rayce Boucher Chris Kruell Doug Wilson Bruce Yatvin Ray Sheldon Daniel Bailey Joe Whittington Donna Vandall Lori Freeman Bruce Yatvin Joe Whittington Donna Vandall Marty Scott Shirley Welch Robert Joy Rayce Boucher Ken Searl Gary Bishop Lori Freeman Eugene Lewins Robert Caldwell Kevin Clark Darrell Weston Bruce Yatvin Ken Searl Vaqas Malik John Godino Darrell Weston Rayce Boucher Amy Mendenhall Doug Wilson Daniel Bailey Kevin Clark Jon Major Hugh Brown Doug Wilson Bruce Yatvin Vaqas Malik John Meckel Gary Bishop Darrell Weston Ken Searl Dick Bronder Daniel Bailey Daniel Bailey Azure Olson Jon Major Azure Olson Preston Corless Daniel Bailey

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Presented by

2013 Rock climbing women’s

Features: 4.5 miles to Smith Rock State Park Soaking hot tub Area for sorting/inspecting climbing gear

14 —Mazama Bulletin

Learn more: vrbo.com/437418 Fantastic views; quiet neighborhood Local owners (hosts) Nearby dining and shopping

clinics

www.chicksclimbing.com info@chickswithpicks.net [970] 623-2442

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Arno Ilgner Presentation & Clinics Have you hit a performance plateau?

Do you experience irrational fears?

H ave yo u m et all yo u r cl imbin g g o als ?

Pioneering rock climber Arno Ilgner to lead his acclaimed The Warrior’s Way® clinics

Tuesday, April 16, 7–9 p.m.

Mazama Mountaineering Center SE 43rd & Stark, Portland, OR

BASIC CLINICS

PRESENTATION

A fear of falling, loss of focus and attention, and plateauing skill—if you’re a rock climber, chances are you’ve faced these problems. Arno Ilgner can help. In the 1970s and ‘80s, when the top climbs were bold and dangerous first ascents, Arno Ilgner distinguished himself as a pioneering rock climber. These personal exploits, along with research in mental training and the warrior tradition, are the foundation for Ilgner’s unique physical and mental training program—The Warrior’s Way® clinics.

Falling & Commitment Indoor Clinics Monday, April 15, 5:30–9:30 p.m.

Wednesday, April 17, NOON–4 p.m.

Monday, April 22, 5:30–9:30 p.m.

The Source Climbing Center 1118 Main Street, Vancouver, WA Falling & Commitment Outdoor Clinic Friday, April 19, 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

Smith Rock State Park

A d v a n c e d C l i n i c s f o r p a s t A R G r a d s a n d p r i o r C l i n i c S t u d e n t s , A p r i l 1 2 –14.

Learn more about these events and register online at www.mazamas.org.

co-sponsored by The Mazamas and The Source Climbing Center

A Journey Beyond the Himalaya

Friday, May 3, 7 p.m.

Mazama Mountaineering Center

$6 members/$12 nonmembers. More information and advanced registration is available online.

Andy Selters is a renowned climber, writer, photographer, and historian, with experience worldwide.

As a guide he's led climbs from Denali to Nepal and Kashmir, and as a climber he's made ascents ranging from the walls of El Capitan to new routes in the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Andes. He is the author of several books, including Ways to the Sky, the award-winning history of North American mountaineering, and Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue. Andy's new show, Mountains of the Blue Sheep, comes from his recent trip to the remote Eastern Karakoram. With Canadian and Indian partners he climbed and named several previously unvisited 6,000m peaks. For more information on Andy and this show, visit http://www.andyselters.com.

Evening Programs Programs are held at the MMC (527 SE 43rd Avenue) and begin at 7 p.m.

Shows are free and open to Mazama members and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee.

Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley, Dave Grodle, John Leary, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Rick Russell and Paul Winther.

Trekking in Nepal and Valhalla’s Provincial Utah Slot Canyoneering Park Wednesday, April 6

Wednesday, April 10

Adventure Hub owner, Kerry Loehr, will present two favorite trips, one half-way around the world and the other closer to home. Come join in the exploration of the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp treks in Nepal, as well as a slot canyoneering trip in Utah. The high Himalayas draw people from around the globe for its worldclass trekking, but it’s arguably the rich culture and beautiful people of Nepal visitors will truly fall in love with. We’ll see tea houses, yaks, temples, prayer flags, the vibrant Kathmandu, and, of course, mountains beyond comparison. Then, switching gears, we will go from the roof of the sky to the depths of Utah’s slot canyons. Travel down slots that are full of adventure, and perhaps surprisingly, a great deal of water.

On rappel!

Gimli Peak via the South Ridge route (5.10a) is one of the best in its class anywhere in the world.

It is one of Fred Beckey’s “100 Favorite North American Climbs” and rightfully so. Gimli Peak is located in the Kootenay district of southeastern British Columbia.

It lies on the southern border of Valhalla Provincial Park, west of Slocan Lake in the Southern Selkirk mountains. In June 2012, Adam Baylor and Ken Allen climbed Gimli’s South Ridge and will share their adventure via video, photos and story. The climb was partially funded by an American Alpine Club Live Your Dream Grant.

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Wednesday, April 17, A Benefit for the Programs Committee $3 at the door Hiking guru William L. Sullivan takes us on a slide show tour of new and changed trails he discovered for the new fourth edition of 100 Hikes in Northwest Oregon & Southwest Washington, released in April 2013. We’ll find a hidden lake at Mt. Adams, hike to a wildflower hill above Hood River, explore a new path to Fish Creek Mountain, and see what’s been changed by the fires at Mt. Hood. As always, expect anecdotes about geology, history, and wildlife along the way.

Sullivan has written four novels and a dozen nonfiction books about the Northwest, including Hiking Oregon’s History, Oregon Favorites, and The Case of D.B. Cooper’s Parachute. His journal of a 1,000-mile hike he took across Oregon, Listening for Coyote, was chosen by the Oregon Cultural Heritage Commission as one of Oregon’s “100 Books,” the 100 most significant books in the state’s history.

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News & Notes Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Max Rupert, 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Even after many of the ski resorts close for the season Mazama Lodge is covered in snow, usually until June. Take advantage of the quieter lodge this time of year and explore the ski trails along the Westleg Road up toward Timberline Lodge.

This winter season our hill lights provided a wonderful area for kids (and adults) to enjoy outdoor snow fun late until the evening.

We enjoyed an added bonus of having our hill groomed once a week. Expect next winter to include the same weekly hill grooming and lights on our Mazama Hill.

It’s hard to be modest and stay at Mazama Lodge. Thanks to Ken Klos (Architect and Designer) we now made it a little easier with glass shower stall. Thanks to Ken and Lodge Committee members Wayne Lincoln and Bob Stayton the project is now complete.

Thank you!

For many years the Mazamas and Portland Parks have partnered on using our lodge for various youth group. A youth group was recently given several choices on were they would like to go for the day and several teenagers in the group said “Mazama Lodge!

It’s the Best! They have the Best Food!” Some in the group have made nearly a dozen trips to the lodge and love sledding on the hill. Thank you to Portland Parks for working with the at-risk kids and bringing them to Mazama Lodge. A recent youth group was sponsored by a grant through The NorthFace.

Commemorate your triumph with a piece of the summit.

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With hundreds of peaks and sites from throughout the world, GEO-SITU commemoratives make wondefully unique gifts for any climbing enthusiast.

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April 2013—19

COUNCIL CORNER

by Doug Couch

I

n early March I emailed our members about a decision facing the Executive Council at upcoming meeting, inviting comments and recommendations. This report details that decision and the part our membership played in reaching it.

The managers of the Timberline ski area, RLK Inc., have proposed developing twelve acres of their Forest Service lease area as a downhill mountain biking park.

Most of this area will be under existing ski lifts and involve construction of approximately fifteen miles of trails. The Forest Service approved the proposal and determined that no significant environmental impacts were involved in the project after considering the mitigation measures

proposed. At our December meeting council was asked to join in an appeal of this decision, requesting the Forest Service reconsider their decision and perform an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) of the project. Enough questions were raised on the original analysis that we agreed to appeal the finding of no impacts. In January we reaffirmed this decision.

The Forest Service maintained its finding of no significant impact. The next step to challenge construction of the mountain bike park is a lawsuit, seeking a full EIS. Many of our members had strong opinions on both sides of the issue, and let us know that they wanted to be sure council included their concerns in our considerations. When it came time to decide whether or not join in filing a lawsuit, we invited our membership to consider the issue with us.

In the end, we chose not to join a lawsuit, based on what we saw as the merits of the case, the potential costs in dollars and in our working relationships with the Forest Service and RLK, and the lack of consensus among

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the membership who commented.

Coming to grips with the technical details of the proposal and the decision required a great deal of homework for council members, for the staff and for those who helped us in our decision. As Mazama president I want to thank everyone who plowed through to the conclusion and who weighed in on the issue to help this council decision. All the input we received was respectful, well considered and helpful.

But we do not consider this issue settled.

If part of our debate involved the value of our working relationships with other entities, we need to use those connections to assure the project meets the standards set out in the proposal, and to seek wider access to future plans for development in the Timberline area. The Mazamas have been working cooperatively with both the Forest Service and the RLK company since each of them was created. We will continue to do so as we pursue our mission on the mountains.

AYM Activities

by Paul Kallman

O

n March 2 and 3, the Adventurous Young Mazamas held our annual trip to Nesika Lodge hosted by the Trails Club of Oregon. Nesika Lodge is located about a mile east of Larch Mountain at 2,000 ft. Thirteen of us gathered at the Multnomah Falls parking lot for an overnight trip to Nesika. After dividing group gear, which was primarily breakfast items for Sunday morning, we split into two groups depending on the interest of the participants. We headed up and across the Multnomah Falls bridge to the first switchback where we said our goodbyes and good lucks. Seven would continue up the Larch Mountain trail, while the other six of us headed below the Elevator Shaft along trail 400 to the Oneonta Creek Trail. We headed up on the west edge of Oneonta Gorge up to Triple Falls. We took a snack break there and took a few pictures and then we continued up the Oneonta Gorge. We crossed the first bridge and then took a lunch break at the second bridge across Oneonta Creek. We continued our ascent to the 2,800 ft. level while occasionally having to trudge through knee deep snow on the shady east-facing switchbacks. Finally we came to the Franklin Ridge Trail. We travelled west on Franklin Ridge with a gentle descent of about 300 feet to the unmaintained side trail that would lead us directly down to Nesika Lodge. Finally, around 2:30 p.m., we arrived at the lodge where the other group and our lodge host, Jeff, had a nice fire going. Just as we were arrived, it started to rain.

Once at the lodge, we unpacked, played some board games, conversed with each other, and spent the afternoon enjoying the views of the gorge from Nesika. When the rain stopped, we went to Waespe Point where we had terrific views of the Columbia River to the east. Finally, around 6 p.m., we prepared a fantastic potluck dinner The next morning, we had a delicious pancake and bacon breakfast. We packed up our gear and left mid-morning arriving back at Multnomah Falls before 1 p.m.

Our Nesika Lodge trip is just one of the many activities that AYM offers throughout the year. We have hikes nearly every weekend, an annual Winter Weekend every January at the Mazama Lodge, the Nesika Trip in February or early March, Climb Night at ClubSport the first Monday of the month from November through May, and Pub Night on the third Monday of every month. If you haven’t been to an AYM event, come join us. Our current list of activities is at our website at tinyurl.com/mazamaaym. While our activities are geared towards those in their 20s, 30s, and slightly older, they are open to everyone. We have two trips coming up of special note. Our Badger Creek Wilderness camping trip in mid-May, and our Wallowas camping trip over Labor Day weekend.

Both activities on our schedule.

AYM trip to Nesika. Photo: Tim Kutscha.

Sat., April 6—Hike: Tryon Creek State Park April is trillium season at Tryon Creek State Park in SW Portland. We’ll hike through the trails in the park to take in the flowers. If it’s not too muddy, we’ll follow a little-known trail to a tranquil spot by the rushing creek in nearby Marshall Park, then return via the bike path.

Possible stop for a bite to eat in SW Portland afterwards. Hike: 7 miles, 200 ft. Meet at the equestrian parking lot just north of the nature center in the park, off Terwilliger Blvd. 9:30 a.m.

Leader: Keith Dechant Sat. April 13—Hike: Mitchell Point and Lyle Cherry Orchard Two of the best short hikes in the Gorge in one day - what could be better! We’ll start by hiking the short trail up to Mitchell Point near Hood River for spectacular views of the Gorge. We’ll then cross the river for the hike up to Lyle Cherry Orchard, where the flowers should be near their peak. We’ll finish our day with a stop in Hood River for refreshments.

What could be better?! Poison oak is a nuisance on both hikes—watch your step and your hands. Bring a camera! 7.4 miles, 2,200 feet elevation gain.

Drive: 136. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, 8:30 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder Mon., April 15—Pub Night: Boardgame Edition at McMenamin’s Chapel Pub Join us the third Monday of the month at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! This month we’ll be at McMenamin’s Chapel

Pub, 430 N Killingsworth St. Celebrate mailing in your climb cards (and tax deadline) with boardgames and drinks! Please bring your favorite boardgames to share. We have the ‘North Wing’ reserved. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe!

Sat., April 27­—Hike: Neahkahnie Mountain Old-growth forests, rugged cliffs, beautiful beaches­—put simply, Neahkahnie Mountain is the best the Oregon coast has to offer. Join AYM on this hike to the summit of Neahkahnie Mountain the way it was meant to be—from the bottom up.

We’ll start at Short Sand Beach and hike up, passing incredible viewpoints, wildflower meadows and huge old-growth forest before reaching the summit, where the views are incredible.

On the way back, we’ll return to the beach and lounge there for awhile before we return to the trailhead. We will stop at the Irish Table in Cannon Beach for coffee and sweets before returning to Portland. You don’t want to miss this amazing day!

Hike: 7.2 miles, 1,700 ft. Drive: 164. Meet: Sunset Transit Center, 8 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder Fri., May 17–19­—Weekend Camping Trip: Badger Creek Wilderness See website for complete details.

Fri., Aug. 30–Mon., Sep. 2— Camping/Hiking: Eagle Cap Wilderness See website for complete details.

April 2013—21

Book Review

Savage Summit

by Barry Maletzky

I

t was common for us to believe, in the 1960s and ’70s, that the most bitter legacy of high-altitude mountaineering on the 8,000-meter peaks of Asia was the same as that for war: women in black.

Little did we dream then what experience and science has shown us since: that women are as, or more, capable of fighting and climbing as are men. Brute muscle strength does not appear to be of as much value at high altitudes as oxygen utilization and mental will, both qualities at which women excel. The advance of female climbers onto the high Himalayan and Karakoram scenes beginning in the 1980s has quieted our once-chauvinistic views.

Nonetheless, of the first five women to ascend to the summit of K2, the world’s secondhighest but deadliest and most dangerous peak, all five are dead, three on the descent of the “killer peak” and two trying to climb to other 8,000m summits. Since 2005, several other women have perished on such slopes but several others survive and have summitted K2 in their quest to become the first woman to climb all the giants above 8,000m. Most female ascentionists of the past two decades, however, have preferred to stay closer to home and family or to caress the warm rocks of California, Spain and Southeast Asia than expose themselves to the pitiless gales and subzero temperatures of the high world, especially the top of K2, a summit more difficult to reach than the moon.

Not only did these dauntless women brave the elements of the high peaks, they also had to abide the catcalls, insensitivity and innuendos from their almost-exclusively male climbing companions. Did the men fear their alpine accomplishments would pale once females had equaled them? It was not only the callous behavior which rankled the women, but also the occasional patronizing to win female favors, as when the men would assume the women needed them to fix their ropes, carry their loads, or even—mon dieu!—show them the correct knot to tie on. No—the women could do fine by themselves, as subsequent allwomen’s or solo ascents would show.

Of course, Wanda Rutkiewicz would have to be the first, the determined Pole struggling and succeeding to prove that women belonged in these high peaks and cementing their reputation, proving that the historic 1978 all-women’s Annapurna expedition was no fluke. But Arlene Blum’s 1978 climb had been supported by men while Wanda had climbed with men but had shared the burdens and the lead. Indeed, so fierce was her determination

22 —Mazama Bulletin

by Jennifer Jordan

that after a fractured femur had to be re-set, she made the 73-mile trek to base camp in 1986 on crutches. Many have approached this bouldery glacier route to base but, safe to say, none on crutches. She was just one of two women who would make it to the summit and off the mountain alive, though a number of years later she would perish on Dhaulagiri. “Do not stand at my grave and cry … I am thousands of breezes in the wind,” Wanda’s tin plate epitaph at the Gilkey Memorial reads proudly as it rattles in the Karakoram gusts.

Although a gifted climber in her own right, Liliane Barrard would follow her beloved husband Maurice to the ends of the earth, as she did in 1986 to join a French team going for the summit of K2. The second to reach the summit after Wanda, she perished in a fall during the perilous night descent off the Traverse, an 80-degree ice route following the equally perilous Bottleneck, as did her husband.

Of the 27 climbers who reached the top in 1986, 13 would perish on the way down. Liliane’s body was carried down to the Memorial and buried there, but Maurice’s body was not discovered until 12 years later when the glacier had deposited it near base camp. He was also interred at the memorial next to Liliane, fulfilling the wish she had written in her journal the night before her death – “ … that we will always be together.”

Julie Tullis was born into a proper English family but was soon scampering up her parent’s cottage walls and aching to go to the Alps. After succeeding there, the obvious next step was the Himalayan giants, but these required time and money; many of the women climbers also had to scramble after funds. By climbing the murderous north faces of the Alpine great walls, such as the Eiger and Matterhorn, these women could garner the necessary European publicity to warrant the lucrative sponsorships needed to afford such elevated adventures.

Soon, Julie was climbing with the best, including the legendary Kurt Diemberger, a man whom she at first admired but eventually fell in love with. Their years-long affair was never a secret from Terry, her long-suffering husband. She was to reach the vaunted summit of K2 but died in her sleeping bag when trying to “recover” stuck in a storm in a tent at Camp 4 above 8,000 meters. She perished during their fourth miserable night without oxygen; all the

beleaguered Kurt could do was descend in a stagger to base camp without his love by his side. “I’ve lost Julie” was all he could manage before collapsing at base.

For all the controversy swirling around the strikingly beautiful Chantal Mauduit, she was still one of the most celebrated of alpine climbers, male or female. Perhaps because of her good looks she never lacked for male attention, climbing partners or invitations to all-male expeditions. A disciplined and audacious rock climber, she knew that the fame she craved could only be won by higher-altitude adventures. After numerous and public affairs, some under the very noses of the astonished Balti porters on various Karakoram campaigns, she was both revered by the press and reviled by both female and male climbers who doubted some of her claimed “first ascents.” This was especially true because some were solo and her camera always seemed to “freeze up.” One of only a few women to make it back to base

“

Why is the ratio of female climbers who vanished on K2 so high compared to their male co-climbers? alive off K2 (although helped immensely by her former lover Ed Viesturs), she was to perish after chunks of ice fractured her neck, again on Dhaulagiri.

Englishwoman Alison Hargreaves excelled at sports as a youngster and, like many before her, secured her credentials climbing in the Alps. Her husband, Jim, frantic to help her reach superstar status so as to attract funding, suggested she become the first woman to climb all six north faces in the Alps solo, a feat she accomplished without informing friends that, at the time of her last climb, the infamous Eiger Nordwand, she had been pregnant for five months. The Himalayas awaited and Alison duly climbed the northeast ridge of Everest solo and without oxygen, careful to avoid even using the steps made in the snow by male climbers on

the route a day earlier. Although sorely missing her two young children, she pushed herself on K2, reaching the summit late, at 6:17 p.m., then, with the ensuing and inevitable storm brewing below her, she descended into the night with two fellow companions. All were blown off the ridge by the howling incessant wind, with gusts of 100 to 130 mph. All were found subsequently far below, dead after falls of 10,000 to 12,000 feet.

Yes, many men have died after summiting K2, including the Canadian climber Jeff Lakes, a member of Alison’s summit team. Losing his technical gear above the Traverse, he tied into the fixed ropes with a cord he cut from an old and damaged twine, then managed to lower himself, without ice ax, crampons or harness, 6,000 feet to Camp 2 before falling into his sleeping bag. He would not awaken. Indeed, many fathers have left children by climbing so high, yet it is the mothers who have suffered abuse in the press. “How could they leave their kids without a mother?” wondered nonclimbers after Alison’s death. “How could they be so selfish?” Perhaps her husband Terry summed it best: “It is better to have lived one day as a tiger than one thousand years as a sheep.” Alison denied her children their mother when they were both under 10 years of age, but perhaps she bequeathed them something else as valuable: how to live a life filled with passion, pursuit and purpose.

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Why is the ratio of female climbers who vanished on K2 so high compared to their male co-climbers? Although the author posits one compelling reason, their relative inexperience at altitude, another reason may precede this: These brave women had to hustle to a greater degree in order to gain the fame and relative fortune of female first ascents than their male counterparts. They were driven, as most “firsters” are, and refused to turn back, even in the face of bitter storms, avalanche risk, approaching nightfall and clear objective dangers, even when their male companions did so.

The author, a well-known and literate NPR reporter, author, producer and journalist, writes with her own inner fervor about these women as if she knew them personally, and indeed, after her extensive research, including long interactions with all the survivors and relatives she could meet, she could well have considered them sisters. This was especially so sitting in base camp herself on K2 awaiting the (safe) return of her husband, filming another team’s climb. She writes with intensity and poise but her most compelling tales come after having visited K2 and tasted of its deadly mystique: Renatto Carsolio was rappelling down a frozen icefall on K2 when he heard Wanda Rutkiewicz’ voice urging him on. “Come on Renatto, you can do it … I will help you.” It was years after Wanda had perished. In similar

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fashion, just hours after she learned the news of Wanda’s death while in her Polish bedroom, Wanda’s best friend awoke to hear her phone ring. It was Wanda assuring her that she was fine. In the morning, her friend assumed it had been a dream. Then she saw the phone, still off its hook on her bedside table.

But perhaps the most poignant of memories and one of the most bizarre and chilling tales from the mountains came from two American climbers, Thor Kieser and the well-known Scott Fischer. Sitting alone in base camp at the start of the 1992 climbing season on K2, Kieser heard their radio snap to life. “Camp 4 to base camp, do you copy, over?” There was no one on the mountain at that time. Yet there it was again: “Camp 4 to base, do you read?”

Hallucinations? Perhaps, but the eerie thing is Fischer heard it as well, this six years after Julie Tullis had died on the treacherous slopes above. “It sounded like Julie,” was all Fischer could say. It was a female voice. A British voice.

Neither climber would ever forget that voice the rest of his days.

Please read this book. No aspiring or accomplished climber should fail to include it in her or his library.

Jordan, J. Savage Summit. William Morrow and Company, 2005, New York. Mazama Library number 915.42. J75.

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April 2013—23

Announcing 2013 Mazamas Youth &

Youth Climb Skill Builder

by Dan Leone

H

ave you ever said, “I wish I would have started climbing when I was a kid”? I personally started climbing at age thirty, when I took the Mazamas BCEP class. Who knows, I could have been the next Chris Sharma, if only someone had introduced me to climbing when I was a kid.

All joking aside, learning how to climb and summit mountains has impacted my life in a very positive way. I personally would like to pass this on to the next generation, kids like my brother Luke who is fifteen.

The Mazamas have a proud tradition of teaching beginners how to climb mountains, which is one of the reasons I’ve been a member since 2009. I really enjoy helping with BCEP and other classes, and walking people through their first climbs, rappels, hikes, and first summits. In the last few years the Mazamas have not had any activities specifically focused on kids and families.

I talked to a few people, including Lee Davis about this, and wondered what the

Mazamas could offer kids like my brother.

I also told him about my desire to help kids who might never get the chance to climb. He informed me that many other Mazamas are interested in the same thing, being a positive influence in the community through youth climbing education. So, we all got together and brain stormed some ideas.

One thing we came up with, that would be an easy first step toward youth climbing in the Mazamas, is a “How-to belay” skill builder for youth ages 12–17. The class would teach kids how to tie in, belay, and use proper safety commands. Our eventual goal is to bring this skill builder to kids who might not otherwise have the opportunity to get introduced to climbing, such as single parent, low income, inner city, and at-risk youth. We would like to start with a pilot project, for children of Mazama members.

This will be a two-week evening class consisting of four two-hour sessions at the MMC, followed by a session at a local climbing gym, or outdoor rock climbing session. For the final class, students should be able to pass a standard belay test. We also plan on letting kids know about all the different types of climbing: mountaineering,

crag climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, and introducing them to the Mazama classes they might want to take someday. There will be some short lectures, but mostly we want to get them climbing. This class will be taught by a Mazama Climb Leader and assisted by some awesome Mazama volunteers. We hope after the success of this class, it becomes a permanent Mazama skill builder, followed by other classes aimed at younger climbers.

We are also working on some other great ideas you (Mazama members) might be interested in. One of our members, a Mazama climber and father of two preteens, is working with us to create more familyoriented Mazama events. Another great idea in the works is an orienteering course for grade school age kids, possibly as a school field trip. We have also started talking to youth organizations about Mazamas interest in helping at-risk youth through climbing and other outdoor activities. I think it would be a great way for us to pass on our passion for climbing, and help the community at the same time. Join me!

Partners

To make these exciting ideas a possibility we have also begun reaching out to community partners who specialize in working with youth. We have already decided to run exciting pilots with two of these partners, Adventure WILD and Northwest Youth Corps, this summer.

ADVENTURE WILD The first of these partnerships is with Adventure WILD: a benefit for Friends of Outdoor School. Guided by the philosophy that authentic learning takes place when children are able to investigate and interact with the world around them, Adventure WILD runs interactive summer day camps for kids ages 4-11. Adventure WILD programs benefit the important Outdoor School program for Portland Public Schools and will be running two weeks of their camp at the MMC this summer.

The dates of this day camp are July 29–Aug. 2 and Aug. 5–9. Cost of registration is $125 for half-days, $250 for full days; Adventure WILD is offering a $25 registration discount to Mazama members—use the code “Mazamas2013” at checkout. For more details and to register, check out their website: www.adventurewild. org.

NORTHWEST YOUTH CORPS (NYC) We have also been in talks with Northwest Youth Corps (NYC), a youth development and outdoor education organization that has provided opportunities to more than 14,000 young people since its establishment in 1984. Among the NYC programs is the Summer Conservation Corps, which employs youth ages 16–19 in trail and conservation work for 5-6 weeks during the summer. The Mazamas would like to offer a two-day mountaineering trip to NYC youth after their Summer Conservation Corps experience, and is currently recruiting climb leaders to head up these trips. Contact Kati Mayfield if you’re interested in leading one of these youth trips!

Family Activities Get Involved

Here’s how you can join Dan and other Mazamas in promoting youth and family activities!

1. Sign up! Get your kids registered for the Youth Climb Skill Builder! Camp dates: • Tues., June 11: Session 1 • Thu., June 13: Session 2 • Tues., June 18: Session 3 • Thu., June 20: Session 4 • Sat., June 22: Session 5 Sessions 1–4 are at the MMC and Session 5 is at the Source Climbing Gym For more information and to register, check out the Mazamas Youth page on our website: tinyurl.com/ mazamayouth.

2. Volunteer! If you are interested in volunteering to help teach the skill builder, as a climb leader for a youth climb, or would like to get involved in any other capacity please contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org.

3. Donate! If you have rock shoes you no longer use, or lightly-used basic climbing gear, please drop it off in the box marked for “Youth Climb” at the MMC. 4. Climb! Climb Leaders, consider putting a family climb on the summer climb schedule.

Exploring our Local Training Grounds

By Natalie Wessel, CSCS

Y

ou don’t have to drive up to Timberline or out to the Gorge to find great grounds for cardiovascular training. The City of Portland is flush with steep hills and countless steps up and down which we get into killer shape for climbing season. If you choose alternative transportation to get around like me, you’ll find it easy to access these places by bike or transit and let the fun begin.

Mt. Tabor Park in Southeast Portland is my favorite spot to train because of its many options. The park features trails marked by colored wayfinding signage. I turn my trail run into a game by picking a random trail color and allowing it to lead me on my course. Mt. Tabor is perhaps best known for the Summit Stairway on the north side, a never-ending 282-step course that takes you 171 feet up. Repeat this a few times with a heavy pack and you’re on your way to cardio and strength building.

Like Mt. Tabor, Rocky Butte is another volcanic cinder cone that offers great conditioning possibilities. Though perhaps better known for its rock climbing areas, Rocky Butte’s spiral drive is perfect for my ‘up and over’ workout. Bike or hike up the NE 91st Ave. entry to the top and down the other side.

Then turn around and retrace your steps back up and over. It’s similar to climbing and descending ridges and the views of the surrounding mountains from the top make it worth your while.

This article wouldn’t be complete without a mention of SW Terwilliger Boulevard below OHSU. At all times of the day you’ll find cyclists and runners ascending the undulating road into the quiet forest. Start at the track at Duniway Park and up you go! Terwilliger also offers a variety of off-road, soft-surface options through the SW Trails, like the Marquam Trail up to Council Crest.

Washington Park in the west hills is another popular place to “get steep” with its winding trails and many trailheads. Pick and choose any of the loops through the arboretum for a good workout for any fitness level. Connect to Forest Park via the Wildwood Trail and extend your journey. My favorite conditioning run or weighted-backpack hike is the 7+-mile loop from Lower Macleay Park to Pittock Mansion with a 600-foot gain.

March up the Springville Road fire lane a bit further north for an intensely-paced workout. Take NW St. Helens Rd (Rt 30) towards the St. John’s Bridge and park on NW Kappton-General Rd. Cross the highway and almost 1,000 feet of climbing greets you as you make your way up Springville Road towards Skyline Boulevard.

I’m sure everyone has a favorite local spot for climbing-specific cardio training. Share yours at http://mazamas.blogspot.com/p/ where-do-you-like-to-train-forclimbing.html.

A BCEP team practices their moves at the top of Rocky Butte in between a hike up and over the park.

April 2013—25

Adventure Travel LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2013

Hiking and Touring in Tuscany

Hiking Glacier National Park

April 28–May 8, 2013

July 28–Aug. 3, 2013

While known for its medieval villages and magical rolling hill country, Tuscany is also home to some fantastic mountain hiking, a beautiful Mediterranean coast, thousands of years of history, and of course some amazing food and wine. This outing will take in the attractions of Tuscany, Elba Island, and Chianti, including medieval villages, Apennine hikes, and amazing food and wine. Cost is $4,300 to $4,600 plus airfare.

Leader: Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com)

Chamonix—Mt. Blanc Climbing Outing July 4–17, 2013 Join us on this Mazama Outing to the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix, Mont-Blanc, France. We’ll be there in peak alpine climbing season for two full weeks.

Based at the foot of the Mt. Blanc massif with hundreds of day-trip alpine objectives, this will be a unique opportunity for climbers to fully explore the French Alps and stretch their skills.

This will be a strenuous outing with climbing opportunities daily for the duration of the trip.

Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School graduates or equivalent.

Outing costs will be $1,950 per person ($2,150 for non-members). Costs include all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix–Mt. Blanc area for 14 days (all lifts, gondolas, cog-trains, and cable cars are included).

Participants are expected to bring their own personal climbing equipment. Participants will be responsible for transportation to/from Chamonix, France. A deposit of $500 to hold your spot is due by March 15, 2013. Send application, medical form and check (made out to Mazamas) to: Mazamas, Attn: Lee Davis, Re: Chamonix 2013, 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97213. Leader: Lee Davis 503-227-2345 (williamleedavis@gmail.com); Assistant Leaders: Shirley Welch (welclimb@ yahoo.com) and Marty Scott (martyscott@q. com). Contact leader or assistants for further details.

26 —Mazama Bulletin

Full/Alternates Only See January for more information.

Exploring Idaho’s Mountains Aug. 4–17, 2013 Join us on a climbing and backpacking outing to Idaho. One segment will be in the Seven Devils Wilderness, another in the Sawtooths, and the last at Mt. Borah. Backpacking will be moderate in distance and pace. Climbs will be nontechnical scrambles to class 3 maximum.

Begin with a three-day backpack into a base camp at Sheep Lake in the Seven Devils Wilderness, just east of the Wallowas. We may climb He Devil, She Devil, Tower of Babel or other nearby summits. Mazamas pioneered this area many years ago. Next, we will move to Stanley and Redfish Lake, where we start a 40-mile, seven-day loop through the scenic center of the Sawtooth Wilderness and around Sawtooth Lake itself. Possible climbs may include Mt. Regan and Mt. Thompson.

Lastly, we move southeast to climb Idaho’s highpoint, Borah Peak, as a day trip.

Participants should be able to carry a 40+/lb. pack, on rough, off-trail terrain, and be comfortable climbing class 3 rock. Dangers include falls, weather, rockfall, and possibly black bears. For a photo preview of the Sawtooths, go to http://breivog.zenfolio.com/ p483948971.

Costs range from $119 to $190 with maximum group size of 12 (including leaders).

Participants responsible for transportation, camping, hotel and food costs. We will arrange carpools and tent/gear sharing. No climb cards are needed.

A $50 deposit is due by June 15, 2013.

Contact leader Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284, breivog@teleport.com or co-leader: Paul Steger, 503-281-2443, paulsteger@q.com.

Wallowa Mountain Trek August 18–24, 2013 Join us as we hike and climb in the beautiful and scenic Eagle Cap Wilderness in the Wallowa Mountains of NE Oregon. The 6–8 participants will need to be in good physical condition for this up to 70-mile adventure and should have experience in at least one 50+ mile trek and A-level climbing. We will have a flexible schedule dependent on weather, terrain, and team strength. Possible peaks that we will

climb include Aneroid, Sentinal, Cusik, Eagle Cap, Matterhorn, and Sacajawea. The pace will vary with up to approximately 10-15 miles per day possible over moderate to difficult terrain. The cost of the outing will be between $90 and $115.

We will have a pre-outing meeting in early summer. Contact the leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com), for more information.

2013 Yosemite National Park/ High Sierra Camping, Hiking and Backpacking Aug. 26–Sep. 8, 2013 Full/Alternates Only See January for more information.

Backpack and Climb in the Trinity Alps Sep. 15–21, 2013 Come spend six days in the spectacular alpine wilderness of the Trinity Alps in northern California, and hopefully we’ll bag a few peaks, as well.

The Trinities are like the Wallowas on steroids, with far fewer people. Typically in September, the weather is perfect and the bugs are all gone. This area is oddly little-known to Portlanders, but it’s amazing.

We’ll hike up Canyon Creek to two different camps near gorgeous lakes around 6,000 feet, surrounded by granite walls and spires.

On three days we’ll have the option of scrambling up peaks in the 9,000-foot range (bring helmets for some Class 3 rock). If you’re not up for climbing, you’ll have gorgeous country in which to explore, swim, fish, or just lie around.

Cost of $150-180 depends on how many people go (maximum 10) and includes a nice B&B the night we hike out. Contact leader Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com or 971227-2059) or assistant Gary Beck (glbeck01@ comcast.net) for details.

China–Tibet Sep. 29–Oct. 19, 2013 Join us on an amazing spiritual, cultural, and scenic journey to the most sacred mountain in Asia. The full trip begins in the ancient capital city of Xian, China. In Xian we view the Terra Cotta Warriors and hike up spec-

Outings

Day Hikes in Bhutan Oct. 21–Nov. 7, 2013 If you missed the 2004 or 2005 Bhutan Day Hikes Outing, you have another chance.

Mazama’s Day Hikes in Bhutan provides an opportunity to wander through villages and enjoy Bhutan’s natural beauty, meet local Bhutanese and visit the historic sites that are a part of the countries unique cultural heritage. Cost is $4,790 to $5,266 plus airfare.

Leader: David Christopher (Folkways.

Travel@gmail.com)

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check.

As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www. seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club— www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www. outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www. americanalpineclub.org.

By Barbara Weiss

H

ave you been wondering what our senators have been up to in D.C. lately? Both Ron Wyden and Jeff Merkley recently renewed their efforts to preserve and protect some of Oregon’s most wild and environmentally important areas.

According to a recent press release from Senator Wyden’s office, (wyden.senate.gov/news/pressreleases/), Merkley and Wyden re-introduced three bills potentially designating more than 100,000 acres of land as wilderness or preserved areas.

“The lands addressed in these bills are among Oregon’s most pristine areas,” Wyden said. “These areas provide habitats to countless species of plants and animals, economic benefits to surrounding communities and recreational opportunities for Oregonians and visitors throughout the nation.

Senator Merkley and I will continue working with our colleagues to do all that we can to preserve these areas for generations to come.”

Oregon Caves Revitalization Act—this act enhances the centuryold Oregon Caves National Monument by including the entire Cave Creek Watershed in the park site and transferring management of more than 4,000 acres of U.S. Forest Service land to the National Park Service, while preserving recreational access to hunters. Setting aside this additional land will increase tourism to the largest marble cave open to the public west of the Continental Divide and encourage ecological forest restoration. The legislation also gives a scenic designation to the River Styx that travels through the caves–the nation’s first such distinction for an underground waterway.

Devil’s Staircase Wilderness Act —this act designates about 30,500 acres near the Wasson Creek area as wilderness and designates 4.5 miles of Franklin Creek and 10.1 miles of Wasson Creek as Wild and Scenic Rivers. The Devil’s Staircase legislation designates about 30,500 acres of the Siuslaw National Forest as wilderness and protects about 14 miles of the Wasson and Franklin Creeks. This area holds some of the best stands of old-growth forest remaining in the Coast Range, and is essential habitat for spotted owls.

Oregon Treasures Act —this act combines four bills introduced by Senator Wyden and cosponsored

by Senator Merkley in 2011: the Chetco River Protection Act, the Rogue Wilderness Area Expansion Act, the Molalla River Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, and the Cathedral Rock and Horse Heaven Wilderness Act. The act protects three miles of the Chetco River from invasive mining practices, designates 21.3 miles of the Molalla River as “recreational” under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, and adds 60,000 acres of wilderness to the Wild Rogue Wilderness. It also protects 143 miles of tributaries that feed into the Rogue River and preserves more than 17,000 acres near Horse Heaven and Cathedral Rock.

Senators Wyden and Merkley introduced similar versions of the bills in the previous Congress.

Two of the bills, the Oregon Caves Revitalization Act and the Devil’s Staircase Wilderness Act, passed the Senate Energy and Natural Resources Committee last year. As the new chairman of the committee, Wyden has said he hopes to move through the gridlock that held up these and other public lands bills during the 2012 Congress.

Conservation Corner

tacular Hua Shan (Mountain). Then we board the coolest train ever for our trip to Lhasa, Tibet. In Lhasa, we tour the Potala and other famous monasteries, the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor, and associated sites. From Lhasa we proceed by land cruiser west to Gyantse, Shigatse, Lhatse, and on to western Tibet’s Lake Manasarovar and then to Mt. Kailash where we will do a three-day kora or trek around the sacred mountain. From Mt. Kailash we’ll return to Lhasa by the scenic southern route through the Himalayas, including a visit to the North Ridge Everest Base Camp and a tour of the Sakya Monastery.

There are two trip options: The entire 21-day China-Tibet trip (Sep 29–Oct 19) costs approx. $4,200–$4,500, or the 16-day Tibet only trip (Oct. 4–19, begins and ends in Lhasa) costs approx. $3,700–$4,000. Airfare is not included. Group size will be 10–15. The deposit is $500.

For more info, an itinerary, or an application, contact trip leader Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail.com, 503-297-6344).

Our assistant leader is Ken Searl (kensearl@ gmail.com, 503-502-2030).

Senator Wyden and Merkley Working to Protect Wilderness Areas in Oregon

April 2013—27

Take to the Trails!

Contact Trail Trips Committee chair David Zeps at 503-638-5430 with any questions. To lead a hike in May, log on to the Trails Trips website at http:// www.mazamas2.org.

Note: “Wilderness­—Limit 12” means the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area, HK B2 Apr 03 (Wed) Mitchell Point & Wygant Peak Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. We will make the short steep hike up to Mitchell point for the views, then explore the extreme blowdown damage on the Wygant Peak trail. 8.5 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 110 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 06 (Sat) Herman Creek Bridge-PCT. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness–Limit 12.

This hike uses a car shuttle. It starts on the Herman Creek Bridge trail and follows it to join the final Oregon piece of the PCT past Pacific Crest Falls to Cascade Locks. Email leader to reserve a spot. 6.1 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Apr 06 (Sat) Catherine Creek/Coyote Wall Loop. Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373. Come enjoy bigger than life views, early spring flowers, waterfalls, ancient Indian pits, a secret passage, and a hidden valley.

Maybe even a day of sunshine on the eastern end of the Gorge. 503-8079373 12.3 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 126 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK A1 Apr 07 (Sun) Catherine CreekWest. Richard Getgen teambears@ frontier.com. Wildflower hike through open meadows with vast views. Lunch at hill overlooking Gorge. 7.0 miles 1300 ft. Dr. 126 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 07 (Sun) Dog Mountain Loop. David Nelson 503-657-4058.

Popular Gorge hike due to easy access, beautiful views, and short drive from Portland. We will go up the more challenging, center route and back down the less challenging East route. This is an early spring hike, so please be prepared for any and all conditions, including snow, ice and driving wind.

and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader.

visit http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/startshere/C93/ for updates!

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please

AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at http://tinyurl.com/ mazamaaym.

Bring food, snacks, water and 10 essentials. 7.2 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 10 (Wed) Silver Star Mountain (Grouse Vista). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Highest point in Southwest Washington outside of Mount St. Helens. 7.5 miles 2,300 ft.

Dr. 70 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 13 (Sat) Burnt Bridge and Cougar/Salmon Creek. Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. These two trails in Vancouver are jewels in an urban environment. We will do an out-and-back on Burnt Bridge Creek from the west side, then drive to the Cougar Creek entrance to Salmon Creek Trail and do four miles there, can vary the length according to hikers abilities. Be back at Gateway by 2:30 p.m. including a coffee/ice cream stop. 8 miles 100 ft.

Dr. 28 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 13 (Sat) Wahclella, McCord, Elowah & Dry Creek Falls.

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Four beautiful “off the beaten path” falls in the Columbia River Gorge. We will do three separate, short hikes to view each of these. 9 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 75 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 13 (Sat) Munra Point.

Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373. Wilderness–Limit 12. Munra offers it all: a great little workout up this short, steep user trail. You’ll be rewarded along the way with wildflowers, rock formations and expansive views. Some poison oak. Poles recommended. Call leader ahead: 503-807-9373. 5.6 miles 1,982 ft. Dr. 66 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Apr 13 (Sat) Elk-Kings Traverse. Leora Gregory leoragregory@ gmail.com. Please email (or call 503357-7728) to arrange carpools from

Supporting outdoor enthusiasts x-train wellness rehab Weekly Yoga Classes Therapeutic Massage

Eugene Lewins

www.MassageWithEugene.com 503-939-9657

LMT 16438

28 —Mazama Bulletin

TRAIL TRIPS

farther east. Expect miserable weather, but a great time! We park at the Kings Mountain trailhead, do the gentle traverse (where we’ll go closer to 3mph) to Elk Peak trailhead, up Elk (slowly, maybe 1.5mph), down the back side, traverse over to Kings (expect 2.5mph, here), and up the steep backside of Kings (slowly), and back down to the cars. 11 miles 4,600 ft. Dr. 66 Timber Rd Junction on HWY 6 (milepost 39) 8:30 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 14 (Sun) Tom McCall Point loop. Bob Breivogel 503-2974284. Spring wildflower hike through meadows. Up and over Tom McCall Point; then descend the western side, down to the cliffs above the Columbia. We should see mid-season flowers (depending on weather). Bring your cameras, as we will have plenty of time for photos. 7 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 140 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 14 (Sun) Wahkeena-Angels Rest. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@ gmail.com. This hike will use a car shuttle. We ascend along Wahkeena Creek with its rushing waters and falls and cross over to Angels Rest with its view of the gorge, descending along the Angels Rest trail. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2.5 Apr 17 (Wed) Wahkeeena to Devils Rest. Kate Evans 503-6356540. We’ll stop at Wahkeena Springs on the way up to Devils Rest. Lunching on the bluff. 7.2 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 44 MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 20 (Sat) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). David Nelson 503657-4058. Wilderness–Limit 12. Popular hike in the Gorge with easy access from Portland. We will wander up the Eagle Creek trail passing half a dozen waterfalls, crossing the High Bridge and continuing until we reach Tunnel Falls. Please bring food, snacks, water, as well as the 10 essentials. Call leader to sign up. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Apr 20 (Sat) Banks-Vernonia Linear Trail (1-way). Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Plan on a fast walk pace on paved path so wear athletic shoes only, as boots will only cause you pain. You will be walking through pastures/woods. No real viewpoints, but good company and a good workout make a good day. Please call to let me know you are coming. 19 miles

Rambles Corner Tuesday & Thursday Rambles from REI–Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI in the Pearl. Rambles start promptly at 6 p.m.

Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles 500-1,500 ft. and meet-up at REI-Pearl NW 14th & Johnson 6 p.m.

400 ft. Dr. 50 Target/185th 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 21 (Sun) Hardy Ridge.

Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Great loop trail climbing along the ridge up from Hardy Creek to the summit known unofficially as Phlox Point where we lunch. Discover Passes for drivers. 8.4 miles 2300 ft.

Dr. 88 StatePark Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 21 (Sun) Table RockRooster Rock. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556. Wilderness–Limit 12.

Molalla forest gem. Columnar basalt formations at their finest. Some of the largest ant hills I have ever seen.

Note: this is an early season hike for this area; if the snow is still overly abundant we will explore some other trails in the Molalla forest area. 10 miles 2600 ft. Dr. 130 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 24 (Wed) MultnomahAngels Rest. Jim Selby (828) 5085094. We will do this car-switch hike in the direction of the wind, most likely Multnomah to Angels. A good workout with early wildflowers and some mud. Definitely a lunch spot with a view. 7.8 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 48 L & C­—near toilets 8:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 Apr 27 (Sat) Falls Creek Falls (Upper trail). Flora Huber 503658-5710. Woodsy stroll to gorgeous waterfall. 6.3 miles 1,040 ft. Dr. 120 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B1.5 Apr 27 (Sat) Ranch Park to Stacker Breivogel 503-297-4284. of Columbia River near

Dalles Mt. Butte. Bob North side The Dalles.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions.

Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory .

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed.

• • • • • •

1 = 1 mph: slow, easy pace 1.5 = 1.5 mph: moderately easy pace 2 = 2 mph: moderate pace 2.5 = 2.5 mph: moderately fast pace 3 = 3 mph: fast conditioning pace; 3.5 = 3.5 mph: very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

HK=Hike; SR=Street Ramble; R=Run; BP=Backpack; TT=Trail Tending; RP=Restoration Project; W=Wilderness area–limited to a maximum of 12 persons; SS=Snowshoes; NS=Cross Country Ski.

From the 2012 Round the Mountain weekend—The Purple Team navigates stream crossing.

Hike the Timberline Trail

Join the eighth annual hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend—Sat., Aug. 31 through Mon., Sep. 2. This is an exciting time to be on Mt. Hood, with the autumn feel in the air, while we are treated to sun-drenched days. This hike includes all meals (including pack lunches) and dorm lodging (bring your sleeping bag and pillow) at Mazama Lodge, along with van shuttle transportation to and from trailheads. Each day, we hike approximately 13–15 miles of the Timberline Trail with just a daypack. This allows us more freedom to explore and enjoy the vistas.

Each evening, the vans return us to the Mazama Lodge near Government Camp, where we will enjoy great food, hot showers and a comfortable place to sleep—as well as a few good stories from the day before turning in for the night. Don’t miss out on this great event. To apply online, or to find out more information, go to the Round-the-Mountain page at: http://tinyurl.com/mazamasrtm.

Questions? E-mail us at rtm@mazamas.org.

Trail Trips, continued from previous page Hike up open flower meadows from the old ranch to the 3,200 ft. summit of Stacker Butte. Relaxed pace with lots of wildflower and photo opportunities. This is free Washington State Park weekend; no Discovery Pass needed. 8 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 170 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 27 (Sat) Pup Creek Falls.

Regis Krug 503-704-6442. Wilderness–Limit 12. Pup Creek Falls is a textbook example of the geology and form commonly seen in waterfalls throughout Oregon. The falls hurtle 203 feet over an undercut ledge of layered basalt flows before impacting on a more resistant layer and veiling

out, then sliding down a second tier of 34 feet in height. 8.5 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Apr 27 (Sat) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. Wilderness– Limit 12. This is a great waterfall hike, there will be plenty of water coming over the multiple waterfalls that we pass. Weisendanger Falls and Ecola Falls (both 55-feet high) are among the best. The view from Sherrard Point allows one to see Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Rainier. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK A1 Apr 28 (Sun) Memaloose Hills Loop. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wildflower hike amongst balsamroot, lupine and 40 other varieties of flowers with views of the Gorge. 6 miles 500 ft. Dr. 140 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C3 May 04 (Sat) Wildwood End-To-End 30-Miler. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. We will start at the Zoo and briskly walk on out to Newberry Road. A long day and this will require a car shuttle.

30.2 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 25 Contact Leader 7:30 a.m.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th & Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; SalmonCreek P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. & 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham– P&R at Boones Ferry & Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th & Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food & clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. See hike write-ups for particulars of pace, trail conditions, mileage and elevation gain. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty. Hikes are classified into general categories; contact leader for further details.

April 2013—29

Membership Report •

February 2013

Applications for Membership: ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 64 Alex Alaniz—Mt. Adams Michael Alexander—Mt. St. Helens Kenneth Allen Jr.—Mt. Hood Thad Blank—Mt. Villarica, Chile Teresa Bright—Island Peak, Nepal David Carrier—Mt. Hood Adam Clarno - Mt. St. Helens Andreea Codorean—Mt. St. Helens Paul Collins—Mt. St. Helens Brad Crowley—Mt. St. Helens Jacob Delepine—Mt. St. Helens Jay DeVoe—Mt. Shasta R. Conner Dowling—Eagle Cap Alexander Ellis—Mt. Rainier Jonathan Farnsworth—South Sister Brett Farrell—Mt. St. Helens Amelia Ferrel—Flat Top Mtn, Colo.

Crystal Geyer—Mt. Adams

Kathleen Goldstein—Mt. Hood Shana Green—Mt. Athabaska, Alberta Canada Morgan Harvey—Mt. St. Helens Kimberly Hefty—South Sister Gerry Howick—Mt. Adams Kirsten Isakson—Cotopaxi, Ecuador Ben Jacob—Mt. St. Helens Ben Kester—Mt. St. Helens Brian Klump - Mt. Adams Benjamin Kocarnik—Mt. St. Helens Carolyn Kruger—Mt. Adams Michael Kucia—Mt. Hood Christopher McCann—Longs Pk., Colo.

Chris Miller—Mt. St. Helens Caitlin Mitchell—Old Snowy Chris Moore—Mt. Rainier Dan More—Mt. Adams

Julie Myer—Mt. Rainier Katie Norton—Mt. Hood Brad Ostapkowicz—Mt. St. Helens Mike Pankrast—Mt. Shasta Sameer Pareek—Mt. St. Helens Joe Petsche—Mt. Adams Sean Pickner—Mt. St. Helens Kae Poneck—Mt. St. Helens Stewart Powell—South Sister Sidhortha Rajagopalachary—Mt. St. Helens Cole Robinson—Mt. Shasta Sarah Root—Mt. St. Helens Andrew Rowlett—Mt. Hood Kessa Scott—Mt. Cotopaxi, Ecuador Ryan Scott—Mt. Cotopaxi, Ecuador Andrew Stohner—Mt. Hood William Swaim—Mt. St. Helens

Joe Timko—South Sister Ryan Toupal—Ruth Mountain Rachel Tramel—Kilimanjaro Jason Ward—South Sister Vince Weeks—Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania Mark Wheeler—Mt. Thielson Keenan Jared Williamson—Huascanran, Peru Tami Wireman—Ruth Mountain Bradley Ulrich—Mt. Adams Paul Van Beever—South Sister Ben Van Raalte—Mt. St. Helens Pablo Velasco—Mt. Adams

Reinstatements: ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 58

Beata Alexander (2002), Richard Andreasen (2002), Ann Barshney (1988), Tod Bauman (2006), Teresa Bright (2001), Brian Buchnoff (2010), Dan Clark (1991), Jon Cole (1972), Candi Cook (2008), Gregory Dardis (1990), Judy Fiestal (1993), Thomas Flaherty (2010), Markus Forsythe (1985), Robert Gravely (2011), Chris Hale (2006), Andy Harris (2009), Rebecca Harris (2009), Abbie Herman (2009), Thomas Hinkle (2010), Maika Horjus (2012), Linda Hughes (2011), Kati Hunt (1980), Jocelyn Hurley (2010), Don Hynes (1997), Lyle Jinks (2011), Alexander Jones (2009), Dennis Lee (2009), Rick Lugar (1993), Dennis Knable (2009), Timothy Manes (2006), Martha Maroney (1984), Andrew McCabe (2006), Tracy Mederos (2005), Todd Merkel (2008), Steven Merriss (2001), Kellie O’Donnell (2007), Karen Park (2003), Barry Purnell (2000), Katherine Radeka (2000), Tim Ramsey (2001), Christopher Rhoads (2007), Jeffrey Serrill (2012), Gail Sheckley (1970), Sean Smith (1996), Trevor Taggart (1997), Janet Toman (2011), Jennifer Travers (2011), Ann Truax (1996), Chris Valencia (2011), Jason Vevoda (2012), Tristan Wear (2009), Wendy Wente (2007), Greg Wahl-Stephens (1994), Jeremiah West (2007), John Wood (2012), Julie Wood (2012), Michelle Wynkoop (2010)

Deceased: �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������2 George McGeary (1949), Michael LeMarte (1947)

TOTAL MEMBERSHIP Net New Members ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 120 Feb. 28, 2013: �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������3,170 Feb. 28, 2012: �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������3,022

Steve Heikkila flakes out the rope as we prepare to cross Upper Curtis Glacier on Mt. Shuksan. Photo: Andrew Holman.

March 12, 2013

Executive Council Minutes

Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Doug CouchPresident; Bronson PotterVice President; Terry Donahe, Treasurer; Meg GoldbergSecretary, Judith Baker, Sojo Hendrix, Bill McLoughlin and Joan Zuber. Absent: Dyanne Foster Doug Couch called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m.

The minutes of the Feb. 12, 2013 meeting minutes were approved.

Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg.

There were 64 applications for membership and 58 reinstatements. Total membership as of Jan. 31, 2013 is 3,170. This is an increase of 148 members since last year this time.

Treasurer’s Report: Written report submitted by Terry Donahe. Report filed for audit.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available for membership on page 3.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Climb • Expedition • Financial Affairs • Outings • Risk Management The reports with exception of Risk Management were unanimously approved and received on the consent agenda. EC requests that Risk Management Committee

Executive Council Meetings­—2nd Tuesday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. All members are welcome to attend. resubmit their request with the accompanying form the committee refers to in its request for approval.

Committees with no reports submitted: • AYM • CISM • Old-Timers’ • Research • Trail Trips • Strategic Planning Unfinished Business Timberline Mt. Bike Park.

Doug Couch introduced the issues: RLK, the managers of the Timberline Ski Area, proposed development of twelve acres within their permit area as a downhill mountain bike park.

Most of the proposed area is under existing ski lifts and involves construction of about fifteen miles of trails. The Forest Service approved the proposal and determined that no significant environmental impacts were involved in the project. At the December Executive Council meeting, council was asked to join in an appeal of this decision, requesting the Forest Service reconsider their decision and perform an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) of the project.

Enough questions were raised on the original analysis that council approved the Mazamas joining

the administrative appeal as to the finding of no significant impacts. In January the Forest Service reaffirmed the decision; maintaining its finding of no significant impact. This leads us to the next step of whether or not to bring a lawsuit to challenge construction of the mountain bike park and asking that the Forest Service conduct a full EIS. Many members had strong opinions on both sides of the issue and let council know that they wanted to voice their concerns before council made a decision.

Council invited the membership to attend the council meeting and give input into the decision.

Ralph Bloemers, attorney for CRAG law center outlined the legal issues of the lawsuit and then the issue was open for comments from members and nonmembers (see accompanying information).

Discussion was closed at 8 p.m.

Doug Couch, president, asked for a motion on this issue. Bill McLoughlin moved that the Mazamas do not participate in the lawsuit. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action approved.

Meeting adjourned at 8:30 p.m.

Next Executive Council Meeting: Tues., April 9, 2012 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

Nominations Sought for Honorary Mazama Membership

Honorary members are those who, in the words of the Mazama by-laws, “have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than 10 years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities.” Each year only one person may be elected. Any Mazama member may submit the name of a candidate. A nominating committee made up of the chairpersons of all standing committees will consider all proposed names. If the committee finds that a person is qualified and the purposes of the Mazamas would be furthered by the nomination, the nomination shall be presented to the Executive Council. To assist the nominating committee and the council in making an informed choice, nominations must be accompanied by a statement detailing a candidate’s qualifications. Please submit nominations to Mazama Executive Council Member Meg Goldberg for consideration at meg@goldbergmediation.com.

April 2013—31

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Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

Front Cover Photo: Hannah Seebach climbs up a steep snow section on Middle Sister. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Below: Brad Farra atop the third gendarme on Yocum Ridge, Mt. Hood. Upper Buttress beyond. Photo: Nate Mullen.