Mazama Bulletin - April 2014

MAZAMA Where will you this summer?

BULLETIN

April/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 4 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high

MT. HUNTINGTON, P. 10 SUMMER CLIMB SCHEDULE, P. 14 SINGLE PUSH, P. 20 WHY IS ACCESS IMPORTANT?, P. 24

THE CLIMBING ISSUE

April 2014 FEATURES p. 6 Book Review: Snow in the Kingdom p. 10 First Winter Ascent: Mt. Huntington’s

French (NW) Ridge p. 14 Climb Schedule Information p. 16 Climb Schedule p. 20 Single Push p. 22 Climb Leader Information p. 24 Crag Access—Why Is It Important? p. 26 Moving Forward with Cross Training MONTHLY COLUMNS p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities p. 8 Lodge News p. 27 AYM Activities p. 27 Successful Climbers p. 28 Long Time Mazamas p. 29 Mazama Families p. 30 Evening Programs p. 31 Membership Benefits p. 32 Go Hiking—Trail Trips p. 34 Adventure Travel—Outings p. 36 Obituaries p. 38 Membership Report p. 39 Executive Council Minutes

Upcoming Events and Classes Summer Climb Schedule on Mazama Website April 1

Round-the-Mountain Registration

Mazama Welcome Night

April 30, 7–9 p.m. at the MMC. Are you a new member? Want to learn all about the Mazamas? Come to Welcome Night, led by Volunteer Manager Kati Mayfield.

April 1

Hike Leader Appreciation Night

Climb Applications

May 2

April 15—The first day to apply for summer 2014 climbs. Mark it on your calendar!

Spring Tree Planting Please sign up by sending an email to conservation@mazamas.org or calling the MMC office at 503-227-2345

Wilderness Navigation Skill Builder—Map & Compass

May 4, 8 a.m.–5 p.m. at the MMC and Hamilton Island.

Lonnie Dupre Class & Presentation

May 30 at the MMC The afternoon will feature a class on extreme cold-weather camping/ expeditions. In the evening there will be a presentation on a winter ascent of Mt. McKinley.

Brad Farra high on Mt. Huntington with a lot of climbing left before reaching the summit. Photo: John Frieh Cover (top): Mt. Rainier. Photo: Bob Breivogel Cover (bottom): Audrey Brown climbing Moscow at Smith Rock, Oregon.

Photo Andrew Holman

Executive Director’s Report What’s the Urgency Kenneth?

Welcome to spring in the mountains!

With more sunshine, flowers are popping up in the gorge, our classes are in full swing and most of us are running up and down the gorge for conditioning.

Two hundred and thirty new climbers have started our basic climbing school (BCEP), and are seeing the Mazama bulletin for the first time. This issue has our initially planned summer climbs and instructions to help beginning climbers get started exploring the mountains with the Mazamas.

Our climbing program is all about creating shared experiences and helping

initiative and the very first goal in his memorandum was to reconnect Americans with the outdoors.

The plan calls for community based initiatives that connect people with the land. The USFS has been working on the AGO initiative and states in their framework for sustainable recreation that recreation is the primary portal through which Americans learn to understand and value the land.

Last month I said I would discuss here the urgency of our mission at the Mazamas. Urgency is usually understood as clear importance coupled with a need for immediate action.

The importance of something is defined by how it changes and motivates you, as well as how it affects you emotionally.

For all of us, the Mazama mission is important because of the strong, life-long emotions evoked by our past experiences in the mountains. These emotions often motivate us to share these life changing experiences with others, and to encourage a sense of duty, or stewardship for mountain environments.

The need for immediate action always lives in the specifics. For social service nonprofits, the need for immediate action lives in specifically understanding the tragic harm or injustice done when people don’t receive basic services. (For example, Oregon Food Bank states that 270,000 people per month eat meals from emergency food boxes, 92,000 of which are children—this specific understanding compels us not just to act—but to act immediately). For us as Mazamas, when we go hiking or climbing year after year we can directly see the threats and changes to our mountain environments.

The integrity and sustainability of our public lands and specifically our mountains are in more danger than ever. Development interests, coupled with a deteriorating infrastructure and funding deficiencies for land managers is resulting in a degradation of mountain environments. Just ask any life member of the Mazamas how the mountain environment has changed over the last fifty years and you’ll get an earful!

“When new climbers go out with the Mazamas on conditioning hikes, training sessions or beginner climbs they learn to understand and appreciate the alpine environment.” new climbers have their first safe experiences in the mountains. We also know that going into the mountains for recreation, or enjoyment, is the primary way that people come to value the mountain environment. When new climbers go out with the Mazamas on conditioning hikes, training sessions or beginner climbs they learn to understand and appreciate the alpine environment.

Experienced mountaineers are driven to protect these unique places and continue to go hiking and climbing year after year to recharge themselves and their emotional bond to the mountains. At the Mazamas, our mission drives us to organize people around these experiences and make these experiences accessible to everyone.

Because we are an organized community we are able to pursue our mission not just on an individual level, but on regional and national levels.

The Mazamas, through committees, staff, volunteers and financial support are working hard to address the access, conservation, research and information needs of our region. Through partnerships with great organizations like the Outdoor Alliance, Wilderness Society, FWOC and the USFS we are able to make our voice and concerns known in D.C. We’re not alone in wanting to get more people outdoors and to organize them around stewardship. Three years ago, President Obama launched America’s Great Outdoors (AGO)

continued on page 5

Contact Us

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m.

Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama. lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon

Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship & Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing & Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Amanda Richards—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@ mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year.

Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month.

Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 10 percent postconsumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Mazama Climb Night Hosts First Monday of the month at ClubSport, PRG or your climbing gym of choice Climb Night is held once a month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and nonmembers, regardless of age or climbing ability. We need friendly Climb Night Hosts to welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people pair up as belay partners.

Come learn what it’s all about at Climb Night at ClubSport April 7 or May 5.

Welcome Night Hosts 7 p.m., MMC, last Wednesday of each month Welcome new, prospective and returning members to the Mazamas! We’ll go over classes, activities and events and learn some fun throwback trivia. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org if you’d like to help out.

Partner Opportunity–ICO Leadership Training Thursday, April 10, 6:30 p.m. at the MMC The Mazamas and the Sierra Club Columbia chapter have partnered to run the Inner City Outings (ICO) Program, introducing urban youth to the outdoors through hikes, ski and snowshoe trips. On April 10, we will host an Outdoor Leadership Training Class at the MMC to train prospective ICO leaders on how to conduct a single-day outing.

RSVPs and questions to Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org.

Mazamas Forever Task Force Friday, April 25, Noon Join the 6-month task force which will explore how the Mazamas can better serve our longtime members. Call Kati Mayfield at the MMC (503-227-2345) for more information.

MMC Yard Work Day Saturday, April 26, 9 a.m.–Noon It’s spring cleaning time at the MMC! Pitch in your time or your tools to help us clean up the landscaping and pull weeds. Bring work gloves, shovels, rakes and wheelbarrows if you can. Contact Steve Polzel if interested, steve_polzel@hotmail.com.

Executive Director’s Report, continued from page 3 To recap, our mission is urgent, and calls us to protect the mountain environment in a world of ever growing, competing interests. To do this we must continually strive to bring more people into our community at Mazamas, to organize this growing community and put it into action.

The primary action step here, the truest expression of our mission, and something you can do this spring is to share the experience of mountaineering with others. If you’re new to climbing, sign up for a climb or contact us so we can help get you going. If you’ve been climbing for years, go back to the mountains with us and rejuvenate your care for the mountains by seeing them again.

Lee Davis Executive Director

Plant Trees with the Conservation Committee Saturday, April 26 Head out to the Sandy River Basin to plant saplings. Bring lunch, work gloves, rubber boots and rain gear in case it’s wet. Carpool leaves from MMC at 8 a.m., meet at Zigzag Ranger Station at 9 a.m. More info on p. 28; sign up by emailing conservation@mazamas.org.

Climbing Committee Web and Database Guru Ongoing Climbing Committee is looking for somebody with database and web skills to manage leader databases, keep them up to date, and run specific reports as needed. The volunteer will need to be regularly available by email, but will not need to regularly attend committee meetings. Contact chair Bill McLoughlin, mcloughlinbill6@gmail.com, for more information and to sign up.

Portland Alpine Fest (PAF) Ongoing 1. Annual Celebration Coordinator: Carry on an important Mazama Tradition, the Annual Celebration, the event where Mazamas get a chance to gather, reflect on the accomplishments of the year. The 2014 Annual Celebration will be the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Festival, and we need an experienced event coordinator to lead the charge.

2. PAF Committee Secretary: The secretary is responsible for ensuring that meetings are effectively called and run, maintaining effective records (including meeting minutes), and managing communication between committee volunteers.

3. Venue Specialist: What’s the right event space to host the coolest party in town?

Help us scout and vet potential space locations. Venue Specialist should have experience assessing and booking event spaces, and should be familiar with event venues around Portland.

To see what the PAF team is all about, join us at a meeting the first Wednesday of the month (upcoming meetings Apr. 2 and May 7) at 7 p.m., or contact the committee chair, Tim Scott, timscott.yeah@gmail.com.

Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest Author: Ed Webster Reviewed by Barry Maletzky Do you really need to read another book about Mt. Everest? As a typical psychiatrist, I would say “both yes and no.” (I promise not to ask how you feel about all this or use the word “appropriate” in the following review.)Yes if you lack knowledge about hard-man (and woman) routes up Earth’s highest peak as opposed to the standard south col route and no if you’re already familiar with the daring and heroic efforts up its west, north and northeast faces.

But this is a guarded “yes” as be warned that Webster’s account does not make for light reading—literally. This volume weighs four pounds and exceeds 582 pages, including 73 pages of annotated bibliographies, indices and acknowledgements!

Best be advised to not pack this book into basecamp.

However, the stories told herein encompass not just Webster and friends’ gallant attempt on the evil Kangshung Face, the peak’s most ferocious, but also his years leading up to his fateful and knotty decision to test himself in the Himalaya.

They include the by-now commonplace tale of tough 5.13’s in Colorado and Utah, the mixed snow and ice of Canadian giants and even Webster’s brief and relatively uneventful earlier expeditions to that tallest of ranges. In this, many would object that these somewhat long-winded side-adventures are extraneous, although the title itself does not guarantee reference to a single climb. However, I would agree that the obligatory self-examinations and grandiloquent references to mountains as god-like souls become a bit wearing.

Nonetheless, one tragic event does seem to underpin Webster’s almost maniacal obsession with Everest: Just several years earlier, he lost his girlfriend and esteemed climber in her own right, Lauren Husted, in an unforeseen accident in the Rockies. In one of his last conversations with her, after announcing his determination to go to the Himalaya, she replied, with unintended accuracy, that “I will die before you go to that range.” This detail, referred to again below, haunts the entire text. However, from Lauren’s loss, Webster chooses energy over despair and continues his alpine dreams and adventures.

Aside from excessive verbiage, the book suffers, in my opinion, from too many black and white photos. While we all love to read text broken up by pictures, more than half the pages are covered wholly or in part by these, which often lend little to the text. How many Buddha blessings and puja ceremonies must we see to get the point? How many views of this peak or that face are sufficient? In addition, many of these photos are placed out of context with the text itself, or feature climbers from past expeditions that have been published extensively elsewhere. A perhaps unsurprising number feature the photogenic female medical student/doctor on the main

“At the col, 100 mph winds sapped their oxygenstarved bodies while food, then gas ran out.”

6 —Mazama Bulletin

expedition, Mimi Zieman.

In contrast, the full-color sections feature some of the most awe-inspiring photographs you are likely to witness and may be worth the price of reading the text as well.

Nonetheless, there is also, in this work, a bit too much grumbling: Other expeditions left too much waste which we alone had to sanitize; the Chinese are all imperialists who have exploited the Tibetan people (we never hear the Chinese view of this accepted generalization); most expeditions take advantage of sherpas but we treated them with utmost kindness; trekkers are “mere” tourists, etc.

It is in the last third of this volume that we answer the question of “Where’s the beef?” Here we meet the meat of this incredible story: four friends, though all accomplished climbers, tackling one of the hardest ways up the highest mountain on Earth­—the Kangshung, or northeast face.

First glimpsed by a European, the adroit and doughty early mountaineer George Mallory, his only expression, now famous, was that “Other men, less wise, would attempt this way if they would, but, emphatically, it was not for us.” But not only would these four mountaineers, Robert Anderson, Paul Teare, Stephen Venables, and Ed Webster attempt a new route on this face, they would do so without supplemental oxygen and without the employ of high-altitude sherpas. Sure, Messner, Habeler and others have summitted Everest without O2 and the Americans had blasted their way up the more technically difficult central buttress on this face three years earlier but only a four-man team, without O2 prompted the redoubtable Fritz Wiessner to scold them, “You’re mad!”

We next get to read about the typical lost equipment, the plod to base camp and beyond, the obligatory rebellions of the porters and their Chinese liaisons for more money, and the establishment of base and advanced basecamp. There follows no shortage of technical difficulties, including a Tyrolean traverse at 25,000 ft.! But these determined mountaineers finally reach the south col, from which most parties make a relatively easy ascent to the summit minus severe technical difficulties. It is from this easy access point that the story really gets interesting. While each of the four has led many pitches (and Webster claims his as the toughest rock leads – fair enough), it was the venerable Venables who plowed through the most new snow, and there was no shortage of the white stuff. At times the climbers had to tunnel through before reaching solid snow and ice beneath, yet could not even see above their bobsled-like trough.

At the col, 100 mph winds sapped their oxygen-starved bodies while food, then gas ran out. Teare was forced to descend that day with increasing signs of cerebral edema but

the remaining three bivouacked without sleeping bags at the 27,000-ft. col then started for the summit at 11 p.m. that evening.

While all three reached the south summit, just 100 meters away from the big prize, all but one gave in to the elements and the certain knowledge that to continue was to die. One by one, they tearfully turned their backs on their goal except for what must be the most tenacious, resolute or psychotic of climbers on our planet, Stephen Venables. This most British of climbers attained the summit alone after continuing to furrow through waist-deep powder for a day and a half, without 02, to the 29,028 ft. summit in what ranks as one of the greatest mountaineering achievements of all time.

The emotions accompanying his harrowing solo descent and re-union with the others, all of whom had given him up for dead, can only be hinted at in text. It will remain for the grateful reader to at least pursue this last third of the text and to judge for themselves whether this singular achievement in Himalayan mountaineering was worth the loss of all of Venables’ toes and some of his fingers as well as the majority of Anderson’s and Webster’s fingertips. Nonetheless, all four have continued to climb to this day.

A 15K running race may take an hour and a half to run; a 30K cross-country ski race at best two-and-a-half. Yes, a threeto-four-day endurance course requires suffering but none of these match the agony of three months of daily struggles with freezing temperatures, unendurable physical stress, inedible food, dehydration and the absence of life-giving air. To boot, you don’t lose fingers and toes in the desert or usually the ocean, let alone on a course set through forest and park.

This text is long and not elegantly written (why are the British so much better at this?). In addition, it has annoying distractions and even more irritating hyperbole. While Webster constantly proclaims that the views on the east side of Everest are the best in the world (has he hiked the Baltoro Glacier past the towers of Uhli Biahu and the Trango Towers to K2 or even cast eyes upon the other-worldly Patagonian pillars of South America?); he spends too much time detailing the ancestry of Tenzing Norgay, the first Sherpa to summit Everest, who wasn’t even close to this expedition; and proclaims this present ascent, somewhat arrogantly, as the pinnacle of Himalayan mountaineering.

All this however should be forgiven, not only because of this reviewer’s prejudicial prior experience and Himalayan study, but by the sheer adrenaline coursing through this text. At times one actually feels Webster’s strength in his writing. True, Venables’ own account in his admirable Everest: Alone at the Summit, is more clearly focused and elegantly phrased. Yet I would recommend this volume to those naïve to the literature of Himalayan mountaineering or even to those only familiar with the big names of the usual routes, such as Bonnington, Whittaker and even Messner.

Perhaps my endorsement is driven not only by the magnitude of the story but also by the two color photographs which stand out as emblematic of this journey. One, at the front of the first color section shows Ed’s girlfriend Lauren Husted, at rest in the Rockies, her eyes wistfully gazing on a new route or a peaceful scene of granite and pine. In another few months she would be dead after following Ed across an easy unroped traverse in Colorado, balancing for a second on a loose rock which peeled off in her hands and threw her off balance just enough (millimeters) to fall 200 ft. to her rock-strewn death, horribly while lying in Ed’s trembling arms. This death-laden traverse was no more difficult for this advanced rock artist than the one we traverse on the east side of Three-Fingered Jack to gain the summit pinnacle. The other picture, more terrifying still, is in the last color spread; it

is the one now an icon made famous in multiple Himalayan texts: the scarecrow of a barely-alive Stephen Venables at basecamp clad only in a towel. Having lost half of his pre-expedition weight, his ribs resemble those of a drought-starved Ethiopian cow, his face and limbs are starkly skeletal and his fingers and nose as black as his straggly beard. Despite all the other gorgeous photographs of scenery and high peaks, it is these first and last unerringly human of images which hover over and disturb this most compelling of mountain tales. Why the suffering and why Everest? For the accomplishment, the sponsorships and the ego I suppose, but then again, Everest is still, for us bound to this planet, the closest meeting place we have between heaven and earth.

Webster, Ed. Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest.

Mountain Imagery, 2000, Eldorado Springs, Colorado. Mazama Library number 915.42.W38.

April/2014—7

Lodge News Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Amanda Richards 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Winter finally came to the lodge!

On March 1 we celebrated our 91st Winter Family Festival with our host family Justin, Mary, Eric, and Julia Rotherham.

A huge thank you for a another great event and perfect winter weather. From the looks of our snow base we should have plenty of great spring skiing through April this year.

A special thank you to lodge committee member Jim Van Lente who saved our night ski lights during a recent heavy snow storm that caused one of the trees to lean into the power line and nearly break the line. Jim called an aborist and had the work completed and donated the cost of the tree pruner to the Mazamas. Thank you Jim! Many of our future members visit Mazama Lodge for the first time during the month of April as part of their BCEP class. Our Saturdays are going to be busy in April but not necessarily sold out. It you would like to stop in for dinner and meet some future Mazama climbers and live vicariously through their new found enthusiasm for climbing, you are welcome to stop by for dinner and maybe the night if room allows.

We have two evening programs planned in April.

Saturday, April 12—Author Jon Bell, On Mount Hood, will give a talk on his new book. “Bell digs deep and wide for his biography of the iconic peak to reveal its marvelous, myriad character….” – Powell’s City of Books staff pick. The 45-minute program begins at 7:30 p.m.

Saturday, April 26—Dr. Candace Gossen of Black Coyote Medicine will share with us her recent travels to Easter Island with a BBC film crew. The 45-minute program begins at 7:30 p.m.

Full page: Humpty Dumpty won first place!

8 —Mazama Bulletin

From left to right: Fast friends were made. Future Mazama member. The Seeger boys emerge from their Igloo.

Pacific Northwest Film Premier: Cold Love

by Lonnie Dupre Friday, May 30 3–6 p.m.: Class by Lonnie Dupre—Extreme Cold Weather Expedition Techniques and Camping. Learn about clothing systems, foot and handwear systems, stoves, tent and snowcave uses, dual use of equipment, electronics and charging, food, and safety. $42 for members and $59 for non-members (includes admission to the film).

7 p.m.: Film Premier. Experience the adventure of polar travel and how climate change is affecting the globe firsthand with a dynamic multi-media presentation by explorer and mountaineer Lonnie Dupre. The talk will highlight the challenges of climbing Denali aka Mount McKinley, North America’s highest peak solo and in winter.

Check our website, mazamas.org, for more information. $10 members, $16 nonmembers.

PLUS: BIG News for Mazama expeditions will be announced at the film premier!

April/2014—9

First Winter Ascent

Mt. Huntington’s French (NW) Ridge

by Brad Farra Finally, we gained the ridge at just over 10,000 feet after spending most of the day wallowing in deep snow on the slopes above the Tokositna glacier. As we considered our route on the ridge beyond, we realized what a committing route we were attempting and decided to bivouac. It was probable that we would not be able to reach another bivvy point before it became dark.

That morning, Saturday, March 1, we met with our pilot, Paul of Talketa Air Taxi, at about 10 a.m. and left shortly thereafter for the Tokositna Glacier. Our intentions were to climb light and fast in an alpine style for our attempt of the French (NW) Ridge of Mt. Huntington (12,240 feet), which lies in the central range of Alaska. Before our departure from Talketna we discussed, “How many pickets and ice screws?

Do we want snow shoes? How much stove fuel? How much webbing would we need for the rappel down the West

10 —Mazama Bulletin

Face Couloir?” We speculated about the condition of the ridge based on the last two weeks' weather reports. Decisions were made and weight was distributed across team members, John Frieh and I from Portland, and Jason Stuckey of Fairbanks, Alaska.

Mt. Huntington had seen two previous winter ascents, both via the West Face Couloir; 2011 by Frieh and Stuckey and first by Haley and Brown in 2007. John and Jason’s familiarity with our descent route would prove helpful in getting us down quickly without route finding difficulty.

Our chosen route up the mountain was first done in May of 1964, in expedition style by the great French alpinist Lionel Terray and a team of eight. There is no easy line up Mt. Huntington and the ephemeral nature of the French ridge has not allowed for many ascents over the years.

Paul dropped us off on the Tokositna glacier at 11 a.m. on Saturday, March 1.

We immediately began climbing from the

cirque below the West face. Ascending to the ridge proper was slow and arduous.

We had underestimated what it would take to gain the ridge. Most of the first day of climbing was shin to chest deep powder. We sought out sections of mixed climbing up to M5 just to avoid the strenuous snow plowing, which felt a like digging a trench at times. An occasional step or two of ice was nothing more than a tease.

We were on the move again by 8 a.m. on Sunday morning and making our way up the ridge. The ridge proper was absolutely beautiful. An Alaska sized ridgeline with large cornices, steep snow and ice steps, and traversing slopes steeper than 50-degrees at times. We alternated between simul-climbing and belaying a few of the more technical pitches. We moved at a solid pace and worked well together, but the ridge was long and the day was cold, very cold.

John climbed in all the clothing he had and still did not overheat while on the move. The simul-climbing was helpful to

keep us moving and generating heat. The sun began to get close to the horizon, which was a stunning jagged skyline consisting of Mt. Hunter and Denali. As the afternoon wore on, we realized that we would not reach the summit before dark.

We decided that the climbing and route finding would allow us to continue to travel in the dark. Headlamps were removed from warm pockets and placed on helmets.

Temperatures dropped as the sun set, but we continued climbing for hours. The theme of the day was the statement, repeated multiple times, ‘it’s not as hard as it looks’. Again and again, we approached and climbed multiple vertical ‘looking’ pitches, which turned out to be less steep than their appearance from a distance.

There were several pitches of grade 3-4 ice with small bulges of vertical or overhanging snow to overcome to get to the slope above. It was classic alpine climbing.

No one had cleaned the snow off the top of these pitches for us and good technique was needed to transition from the steep ice to snow.

We climbed on into the dark night for hours. It was dark, really dark. Unlike spring in the Alaska range that allows you

to almost forego the headlamp completely, we could not even completely make out the ridgeline ahead.

Just after 11 p.m. we approached another steep looking pitch that we thought would give us access to the summit ridge.

We decided to belay this one, as it had a sizeable looking overhanging bulge at the top. I approached the steep ice on lead and quickly realized this one was just as steep as it looked. About 15 feet from the top of this 30 foot vertical section of ice with an overhanging snow bulge above, my headlamp gave a flicker or two and then went completely out. After a few expletives, one very loud one in particular, I had the undivided attention of John and Jason. They quickly realized what I was worked up about and cranked up the power on their headlamps and shined them on the face I was climbing. This was

critical and gave me enough light to choose the best path to the bulge.

While swinging the tools through the eternally long dark seconds that it took John and Jason to light up the face, I realized it’s possible to climb ice quite well without light. Ice climbers rely on the way a swing into the ice feels and sounds more than what the ice looks like. Here the ice wasn’t good everywhere I swung; there were often patches of snow and bad ice on this vertical face. I had just placed an ice screw that I felt wasn’t worth the time I took to place it.

The light from the headlamps below allowed me to choose the best tool placements with minimal swinging. I reached the overhanging snow at the top and realized that this was the crux of the entire ridge. At 12,000 feet of altitude and nearly 16 hours of straight climbing, I was a bit fatigued. I relied on my feet to push up into the snow Above: Jason Stuckey and Brad Farra ready for their flight to the Tokositna Glacier with Talkeetna Air Taxi. Photo by John Frieh Below: Brad Farra belays a pitch of mixed climbing during the first day before accessing the ridge proper. Photo: Jason Stuckey

“While swinging the tools through the eternally long dark seconds that it took John and Jason to light up the face, I realized it’s possible to climb ice quite well without light.”

April/2014—11

bulge and get a tool over the top. While the light from John and Jason helped with the face, it did nothing for me once my tools were over the top.

It was snow on top, but I went by feel and got some solid placements to move my feet up and over. I used the light on my cell phone to build an anchor and belayed John and Jason onto the summit ridge. With my headlamp dead, Jason led us to the summit and I climbed next to John. It was nearly midnight and we made camp just below the summit. We were all exhausted, especially John.

John had been suffering from a cold virus and a cough all day long. Throughout the day he displayed an amazing level of determination on this very committing route. One of the most amazing displays of mental muscle I have seen. As Jason cranked up the stove, I stomped out a tent platform. Hot water bottles and a hot meal provided some warmth to the frigid night. We crammed into the two man tent for the second night in a row and tried to stay warm for some much needed rest.

We got going at about 8:30 a.m. on Monday morning and had a fairly uneventful descent down the west face couloir. About 12 rappels, using V-threads and rock anchors, and some down climbing took us to the glacier just above the landing strip that Paul had dropped 12 —Mazama Bulletin

us on just 50 hours earlier. We roped up for a short section of glacier travel, in preparation to pass the bergschrund and several large crevasses before reaching the flat portion of the Tokositna glacier. Jason led us down and we put the big guy in the back as a nice moveable anchor, a service John had expertly provided the day prior during our travel along the ridge.

We passed the bergschrund and approached some large crevasses just above the flat glacier.

I followed Jason’s steps across several obvious snow bridges that made themselves clear by creating depressions in the snow. As I stepped out on one, it broke. My left foot broke through as my right foot remained on the lip behind. I fell on to the front lip of the crevasse with my forearms holding me up. I quickly put my left foot on the crevasse lip with my right foot and I bridged the gap from feet to forearms in a plank like position. As I peered into an extremely large crevasse, hundreds of feet deep and more than 50 feet wide below me, I thought to myself that it was probably a good thing that I did all of those planks in training and that I should start doing them with a 35-pound pack on my back.

I told Jason, who was 40 feet down slope, to pull tension on the rope and I carefully allowed my feet to come off the

back lip of the crevasse to hang below me.

A bit of a mantle and I put one foot up and rolled out of the gaper without a scratch. John thanked me for showing him the weak snow bridge as he leaped across the opening.

At last, we walked across the Tokositna for pickup from Talkeetna Air Taxi. About 54 total hours in the range and a first winter ascent of an absolutely stunning ridge line on one of the most spectacular peaks in Alaska.

As John likes to say, “Long live the three-day weekend.”

Brad Farra was introduced to climbing while in high school. His brother dragged him up his first rock route. In 2001 Brad got more serious about climbing and started mountaineering. He was heading to the crags around the Northwest and getting in the mountains whenever he could. He added ice climbing to the mix when he realized he needed more of these skills for the harder routes he wanted to do in the mountains. In 2008 Brad took ASI and in 2009 took AR. These classes helped his rope handling, gear, and anchor knowledge base. Brad continues to find ways to improve his climbing skills and conditioning. His future goals include difficult routes that involve steep snow, ice, rock, and mixed climbing.

Brad Farra and Jason Stuckey on the slopes above the Tokositna Glacier before on the ridge. Photo: John Frieh.

NEW NAME, SAME WORLD CLASS FACILITY! • 25 - 45 ft. tall walls, over 11,500 sq. ft. of textured climbing surface • Cracks, slabs, features, and various degrees of overhanging terrain • Top-roping, leading and bouldering • High quality classes and instruction • Full service restaurant, bar and Pro Shop • Only rock gym in Oregon with child care available!

10% OFF Flashpass for Mazama members!

Expires 5/1/14

SMITH ROCK BUSINESS AND REAL ESTATE OPPORTUNITY

Established and profitable business serves climbers, tourists and locals. Opportunity includes business and prime location commercial real estate. Zoning and existing infrastructure would support development of complimentary businesses including lodging and retail. $890,000 includes real estate and business. Please call Peter Lowes 541-693-8600.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

SMALL GROUP TOURS OF TURKEY. Competitive prices, fully escorted, meals included. http://turkey.cascolytravel.com DENALI EXPEDITON 2015 Looking for serious minded climbers interested in joining a small private climb team on Denali in May/ June 2015. Contact Steven Wagoner 503-939-0496, evermore89@ msn.com HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

April/2014—13

Climb Schedule Information Climb Grades Climbs are graded to indicate approximate experience and ability levels required.

Grades are: A: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, and self-arrest.

B: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, self-arrest, glacier travel, and roped climbing.

C: May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, self-arrest, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, belaying and rappelling and low 5th-class rock climbing.

D: May require ice axe and crampon use on steep snow slopes, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, self-arrest, belaying, rappelling and 5th-class rock climbing.

E: Multi-pitch technical routes same as D but with a high degree of selfsufficiency and proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing high-angle leads, setting protection and anchors.

Other Codes • + Indicates a pack in to a base camp on route • A: Adjacent climbs. May sign up for both (two climbs in the same area. To save on driving you may choose to sign up for both climbs) • R: Relaxed pace (those of any age desiring a slower paced climb) • E: Exploratory (the leader has not climbed this route before) • F: Family Climbs. Slower pace and childfriendly • H: Hike-to-the-Summit. Moderate climbs for experienced hikers.

• L: Linked climbs. Must sign up for both.

• N: Novice. Climb leader is willing to take inexperienced climbers • P: Provisional climb • S: Ski Mountaineering climb • Y: Adventurous Young Mazamas (under 40) Grad Emphasis: The column labeled “Grad” helps 2013 class graduates determine the routes appropriate for their skill level and indicates that the leader is interested in taking these class grads on the climb. However, please note, these climbs are NOT limited to these class grads.

Signing Up Sign-up for a climb is by applying directly to the climb leader. A-, B- and C- grade sign-up is by mail only, using an Application for Climb Card (see below).

B- and C-climb applicants should list recent climbing experience in spaces provided.

D- and E-grade sign-up is by telephone or e-mail with individual climb leaders. If accepted, an Application for Climb Card is required. Applicants should send complete lists of experience, formal instruction, etc. with the climb card. Climb leader contact information is on page 22.

To apply, fill out the card and mail in an envelope to the climb leader. (DO NOT send it to the Mazamas.) Make sure the return postcard portion of the card has proper postage affixed along with YOUR address.

Climb Cards Application for Climb Cards are sold at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and online. Cost of the card constitutes the climb fee. Member cards: $20; nonmember cards: $30. To order cards by mail: Mail check or money order for the total amount to Mazamas • 527 SE 43rd Ave., • Portland, OR 97215.

Advance Sign-up Period To give each applicant the same time frame in which to apply for climbs, applications may not be mailed to leaders before April 15. Applications mailed prior to that date will either be refused or the applicant placed on the alternate list. We strongly encourage mailing your applications on April 15.

Multiple Applications for the Same Route During the advance sign-up period, applicants may apply for only one climb of the same grade on each peak chosen.

Applicants applying for more than one climb of the same grade on the same peak either will not be accepted or become an alternate on climbs of that peak after the earliest climb applied for, whether or not accepted on the earlier climb.

Looking back at Mt. Rainier after a succesful summit. Photo: Andrew Holman.

14 —Mazama Bulletin

Rules & Regs Cancellations & Refunds If unable to participate on a climb after having been accepted, notify the climb leader immediately. “No shows” and those who cancel at the last minute deprive others of the opportunity to climb. IF YOU CANCEL AFTER HAVING BEEN ACCEPTED, YOUR CLIMB FEE IS NOT REFUNDABLE. If the climb is canceled or does not leave the trailhead, climb fees are refunded.

Climb Prospectus The climb leader will e-mail a prospectus to each party member about two weeks before the climb. It will contain names and addresses of party members, equipment required, description of the route, experience required, travel instructions, meeting place, etc.

Mount St. Helens

Online Schedule

There is a $15 permit and $7 processing fee for each climber on Mount St. Helens; the fees are nonrefundable once the permit is paid for with the park system. For most Mount St. Helens climbs: Send a $22 check to the climb leader with your application (please read the online notes section of the climb schedule to determine if the leader is making other permit arrangements). If you are not accepted on the climb, your $22 will be returned with your climb card. If you are accepted, the permit fee is non-refundable. If the climb is canceled by the leader for any reason, you will not receive a refund. If you need to cancel your position on the climb, your permit can by transferred to another climber only with the permission of the leader.

The online climb schedule is easily searchable—you can search by date, peak, leader, etc.

The online climb schedule will be the most up-to-date schedule for the climb season.

Climb leaders will continue to add climbs throughout the spring and summer months, so check back regularly for new climbs.

As climbs fill up, climb leaders will update the climb status to “Full” or “Alternates only.” If a climb leader needs to cancel a climb, they will update the climb status to “Cancelled.” Later in the season when you are looking for a climb, search by the criteria “Open” or “Alternates only.” This will filter out all the full and cancelled climbs and provide you with a list of climbs available.

Transportation Transportation to and from the mountain is the responsibility of individual party members. The prospectus will include a list of party members as an aid to arranging carpooling.

Climb Regulations In case of accident, illness, or other incapacity, a climber must pay for his/her own medical and/or evacuation expenses, whether or not he/she has specifically authorized them. Note that all Mazama members have rescue insurance. Pets, firearms, alcoholic beverages and radios (other than ham radio transmitters, or weather radios) are not permitted on climbs or in base camps. No one will be permitted on the climb who has taken or used substances (including medication) that impair performance or judgment.

Climbers 17 years of age or under must furnish the climb leader with a written parental or guardian permission slip.

Climbers 14 years of age or under must be accompanied on the climb by an adult who must remain with them for the entirety of the climb or descend with them. Neither the leader nor the assistant leader of any climb shall be the responsible adult for a climber 14 years of age or younger. If the responsible adult descends, all climbers for whom he/she is responsible must also descend.

April/2014—15

2014 Climb Schedule Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots Status

#

5/01–AM 5/02–12PM 5/02–10PM 5/02–AM 5/03–AM 5/03–PM 5/04–AM 5/05–1PM 5/07–AM 5/08–AM 5/08–11PM 5/10–AM 5/10–AM 5/10–AM 5/10–AM 5/11–AM 5/12–AM 5/15–AM 5/15–AM 5/16–PM 5/17–AM 5/17–AM 5/21–1AM 5/22–4PM 5/23–PM 5/23–3PM 5/24–AM 5/24–11PM 5/24–AM 5/24–PM 5/24–AM 5/24–AM 5/24–6AM 5/30–1AM 5/31–5AM 5/31–AM 6/05–11PM 6/06–AM 6/06–11PM 6/06–PM 6/07–AM 6/07–11PM 6/07–AM 6/07–PM 6/07–PM 6/08–AM 6/09–AM 6/09–AM 6/12–1AM 6/13–PM 6/13–AM 6/14–AM 6/14–AM 6/16–AM 6/16–AM 6/19–PM 6/19–PM 6/20–AM 6/20–PM 6/20–12AM 6/20–AM 6/20–10AM 6/21–AM 6/21–PM 6/21–5PM

5/02–2PM 5/03–PM 5/03–6PM 5/04–PM 5/03–PM 5/04–PM 5/04–PM 5/05–PM 5/07–PM 5/08–PM 5/09–PM 5/10–PM 5/10–PM 5/11–PM 5/11–PM 5/11–PM 5/12–PM 5/15–PM 5/16–2PM 5/17–PM 5/17–PM 5/18–PM 5/21–3PM 5/23–PM 5/26–PM 5/26–6PM 5/24–PM 5/25–PM 5/25–PM 5/25–PM 5/26–PM 5/26–PM 5/26–6PM 5/30–3PM 6/01–10PM 6/01–PM 6/06–PM 6/06–PM 6/07–PM 6/07–PM 6/07–PM 6/08–PM 6/08–PM 6/08–PM 6/08–PM 6/08–PM 6/11–PM 6/11–PM 6/12–3PM 6/14–PM 6/15–PM 6/15–PM 6/15–PM 6/18–PM 6/20–PM 6/20–PM 6/22–PM 6/21–PM 6/21–PM 6/21–11PM 6/22–AM 6/22–4PM 6/21–PM 6/22–PM 6/27–12PM

Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute North Sister, South Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flows Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flows Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flows Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek–Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger Mt. Shasta, Cascade Gulch Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Standard Mt. Hood, Old Chute South Sister, Devil’s Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake South Sister, Prouty Glacier Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Sunshine South Sister, Green Lakes Mt. Hood, Old Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Hood, Old Chute Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Angeles, Switchback Trail Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Bailey, Standard Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Standard Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Hood, Sunshine Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Adams, South Side Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Standard Route Ingalls Peak, South Face Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Adams, North Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Ritter, SE Glacier

B (BCEP/ICS) A(E) B(N)(BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) A A (BCEP) A B(C)(N)(BCEP) B (BCEP) B B+ (BCEP/ICS) A (BCEP) B+(P)(E)(A#538)(BCEP/ICS) A+ (BCEP) A+ (BCEP) A(N)(P)(A#525)(BCEP) A (BCEP) B (BCEP) C (ICS) B (BCEP/ICS) A(N)(BCEP) C+ (ICS) B(N)(BCEP) A (BCEP) D+(E)(ICS) C+ A(P)(BCEP/ICS) B A+(S) B (BCEP) B+ (BCEP/ICS) C+ (ICS/ASI) D(E) B(N)(BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) A+ (BCEP) B+ B (BCEP) B A(A#418) B(N)(P)(L#545)(BCEP) B (BCEP) B+ (BCEP) A(A#419) B (BCEP) A+(P)(E)(L#546)(BCEP/ICS) B(L#621)(BCEP) B(L#619)(BCEP) B (BCEP) B+ (BCEP/ICS) B (BCEP) C+ (ICS) B+(Y)(BCEP) B+(E) B+(E)(BCEP) B(N)(P)(BCEP) B+(E)(ICS) A+ (BCEP) B(A#416) D (ICS) B+ (BCEP) B+(E)(BCEP) B(A#531)(BCEP/ICS) B(A#417) B+(E)(L#523)(ICS)

Larry Beck Chris Kruell Richard Bronder Jeffrey Welter Kevin Clark Eileen Kiely Steve Warner Lisa Brady Bruce Yatvin Amy Mendenhall Gary Bishop Gregory Willmarth Walter Keutel Daniel Bailey George Shay Ania Wiktorowicz Bob Breivogel Bruce Yatvin Larry Beck George Shay Gregory Willmarth Steve Heikkila Tim Scott Matt Carter Jeffrey Welter Bob Breivogel Walter Keutel Steve Warner Jill Kellogg Lynne Pedersen Eileen Kiely Rick Posekany Jeff Hawkins Tim Scott Vaqas Malik Daniel Bailey Chris Kruell Gary Bishop Steve Warner Doug Wilson Ania Wiktorowicz Gregory Willmarth Bruce Yatvin Doug Wilson Carol Bryan Walter Keutel Marty Scott Shirley Welch Tim Scott George Shay Eileen Kiely Gary Ballou Andrew Bodien Carol Bryan Daniel Bailey Ania Wiktorowicz Eileen Kiely Matt Carter Doug Wilson Josh Lockerby Gary Bishop Glenn Widener John Meckel Doug Wilson Robert Joy

6 7 8 7 11 11 11 4 7 7 9 10 7 7 10 7 11 7 6 9 10 5 11 10 7 7 7 7 5 7 7 8 4 11 7 6 7 7 7 5 7 8 11 5 7 7 6 6 11 8 7 4 7 7 0 8 6 10 6 7 9 9 8 6 5

426 431 422 522 445 443 451 501 468 480 455 499 525 500 433 538 400 463 425 581 486 615 391 438 521 556 524 448 496 613 442 396 585 390 401 470 432 454 447 419 546 492 474 418 580 545 619 621 389 434 616 495 594 572 473 407 444 437 417 566 453 609 532 416 539

16 —Mazama Bulletin

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

The online climb schedule will contain the most up to date information on climbs, and climbs will be added by leaders throughout the season. We recommend reviewing complete information on the web before applying for a climb.

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

6/21–5PM 6/27–AM Clyde Minaret, Rock Route 6/22–AM 6/22–PM Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge 6/26–AM 6/28–PM Middle Sister, North Ridge 6/26–AM 6/29–PM Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver 6/27–AM 6/29–PM Middle Sister, North Ridge 6/28–8AM 6/29–5PM Mt. Adams, South Side 6/28–PM 6/29–PM Mt. Stone, West Ridge 6/28–AM 6/29–PM Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier 6/29–AM 7/02–PM Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier 7/03–AM 7/03–PM Mt. Adams, South Side 7/03–PM 7/06–PM Mt. Baker, North Ridge 7/03–9AM 7/06–8PM Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier 7/04–6AM 7/06–6PM Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier 7/04–AM 7/06–PM Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier 7/04–AM 7/06–PM Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge 7/07–AM 7/09–PM Black Peak, NE Ridge 7/09–AM 7/12–PM Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier 7/10–AM 7/13–PM Bonanza Peak, Mary Green Glacier 7/11–AM 7/13–PM Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier 7/12–AM 7/12–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake 7/12–AM 7/13–PM Middle Sister, North Ridge 7/12–AM 7/13–PM Mt. Adams, South Side 7/16–AM 7/20–PM Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier 7/17–AM 7/19–PM Mt. Buckner, SW Route 7/17–AM 7/20–PM Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge 7/17–PM 7/20–PM Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier 7/18–AM 7/20–PM Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm–Cascade Pass 7/18–AM 7/20–PM Forbidden Peak, West Ridge 7/18–7AM 7/20–8PM The Brothers, South Couloir/Lena Lake 7/19–AM 7/20–PM Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier 7/19–5AM 7/20–9AM Mt. Stone, West Ridge 7/19–AM 7/20–PM Diamond Peak, South Ridge 7/19–AM 7/20–PM Middle Sister, North Ridge 7/20–AM 7/22–PM Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver 7/20–AM 7/27–PM Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge 7/25–5PM 7/27–6PM Mt. Stone, West Ridge 7/25–AM 7/27–PM Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge 7/26–AM 7/27–PM Irish Cabin Peaks, Spray Park Tour (5 Peaks) 7/26–AM 7/27–PM Middle Sister, SE Ridge 7/26–AM 7/30–PM Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier 7/27–AM 7/27–PM Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge 7/31–PM 8/03–PM Forbidden Peak, West Ridge 7/31–5PM 8/03–10PM Ingalls Peak (North Peak), South Face 7/31–5PM 8/03–10PM Mt. Stuart, West Ridge 8/01–AM 8/02–PM Mt. Adams, South Side 8/01–AM 8/03–PM Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier 8/01–5PM 8/03–PM Gunn Peak, Standard 8/01–AM 8/03–PM Church Mountain, Church Mountain Trail 8/01–3PM 8/03–PM Mt. Larrabee, SW Route 8/01–AM 8/07–PM Bailey Range (Olympics), Traverse 8/02–AM 8/03–PM Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier 8/02–AM 8/03–PM Vesper & Sperry Peaks, East Ridge/Headlee Pass 8/02–AM 8/04–PM Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge 8/05–AM 8/05–PM Abiel Peak and Tinkham Peak, PCT Route 8/06–AM 8/08–PM Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier 8/07–AM 8/07–PM Guye Peak, North Route 8/07–5PM 8/10–5PM Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier 8/07–AM 8/10–PM Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys 8/08–AM 8/08–PM Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route 8/08–PM 8/09–PM The Tooth, South Face 8/08–AM 8/10–PM Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge 8/08–AM 8/10–PM Columbia Peak, West Ridge 8/08–AM 8/10–PM Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge 8/08–AM 8/10–PM Mt. Washington, North Ridge 8/08–AM 8/10–PM Ingalls Peak (North Peak), South Face

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots Status

#

B+(E)(L#539)(ICS) B(A#532)(BCEP/ICS) B+ (BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) B+(P)(E)(BCEP) A+ B(E)(BCEP/ICS) B+(E) C+(E)(ICS) A D+(E)(ASI) D+(E)(ICS) B+ C+(E)(ICS) C+(L#489)(ICS/AR) D+(AR) C+ D+(E)(BCEP/ICS/AR) C+(E)(BCEP/ICS) A(H) B (BCEP/ICS) A+ (BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) C+(E)(BCEP/ICS) C+(E)(ICS/ASI) D+(E)(ICS) B+ D+(E) B+ B+(E)(ICS) B(E) A B+ (BCEP) C+(E) C+(E)(ICS/ASI) B+ C+(L#493)(ICS/AR) A+(E) A+(H) C+(E)(ICS) C D+(E)(AR) D(L#404)(ICS/AR) D+(E)(L#405)(ICS/AR) A+ (BCEP) C+(E)(ICS) B(E) B(E)(L#557) A(E)(L#558) C+ (BCEP) B+(P)(E)(BCEP) A B+ A(C)(E)(A#413) C+(E)(A#\) A(C)(A#414) B+ C+(E)(ICS/AR)(ASI) B (BCEP) C(Y)(E) C+ (ICS) B+(E)(BCEP/ICS) C+(L#482)(ICS/AR) C+(L#484)(ICS/AR) D+(L#488)(AR)

Robert Joy John Meckel Larry Beck Daniel Bailey Ted Slupesky Steve Warner Jon Major Kevin Clark Bruce Yatvin Amy Mendenhall Jeffrey Welter Glenn Widener Jeff Hawkins Lynne Pedersen Daniel Bailey Marty Scott Amy Mendenhall Azure Olson Larry Beck Lori Freeman George Shay Eileen Kiely Gary Bishop Jon Major Matt Carter Jeffrey Welter Bruce Yatvin Thomas Miller Bob Breivogel Daniel Bailey Robert Joy Gary Beck Lynne Pedersen Amy Mendenhall Carol Bryan Vaqas Malik Daniel Bailey Kevin Clark Gary Beck Larry Beck Bruce Yatvin Jeffrey Welter Vaqas Malik Vaqas Malik Lori Freeman Greg Scott Robert Joy Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Andrew Bodien Ted Slupesky Gary Beck Amy Mendenhall Ray Sheldon Amy Mendenhall Ray Sheldon Vaqas Malik Matt Carter John Godino Ryan Christie Bruce Yatvin Jon Major Daniel Bailey Daniel Bailey Gary Ballou

5 8 6 3 10 11 7 7 7 7 7 7 8 5 3 4 2 3 6 9 11 9 7 5 6 6 7 5 7 6 5 9 7 2 7 6 3 4 7 4 7 6 5 5 9 5 5 7 7 5 10 5 6 10 6 10 6 4 11 6 7 7 3 3 1

523 531 424 497 498 446 399 571 487 467 520 596 586 614 493 620 476 536 423 588 582 617 452 398 439 519 462 552 555 472 541 605 608 475 575 406 489 579 606 515 456 518 405 404 587 427 540 558 557 598 485 607 471 414 514 413 403 440 547 387 461 397 484 482 494

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

Key: Dep.=Departure Date and Time Ret.=Return Date and Time Spots=Spaces available #=Climb Number

April/2014—17

Climb Schedule, continued from previous page Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots Status

#

8/08–AM 8/08–AM 8/08–AM 8/09–AM 8/09–AM 8/10–AM 8/12–AM 8/14–PM 8/15–AM 8/15–9AM 8/15–PM 8/15–AM 8/15–AM 8/15–AM 8/15–5PM 8/15–5PM 8/15–5PM 8/16–AM 8/19–AM 8/19–PM 8/21–AM 8/22–AM 8/22–AM 8/22–AM 8/23–AM 8/23–8AM 8/23–AM 8/28–AM 8/28–AM 8/29–AM 8/29–AM 8/29–AM 8/29–AM 8/29–5PM 8/30–AM 8/30–AM 8/30–AM 8/30–AM 8/30–AM 8/30–AM 8/31–AM 8/31–AM 9/02–AM 9/03–AM 9/03–AM 9/04–AM 9/05–AM 9/05–3PM 9/05–AM 9/05–4PM 9/05–AM 9/05–AM 9/05–AM 9/05–AM 9/06–AM 9/06–AM 9/07–AM 9/07–AM 9/09–AM 9/12–AM 9/13–AM 9/14–AM 9/14–AM

8/10–PM 8/12–PM 8/12–PM 8/09–PM 8/10–PM 8/10–PM 8/13–PM 8/15–PM 8/17–PM 8/17–1PM 8/17–PM 8/17–PM 8/17–PM 8/17–PM 8/17–PM 8/17–PM 8/18–5PM 8/16–PM 8/19–PM 8/20–PM 8/21–PM 8/22–PM 8/25–PM 8/25–PM 8/24–PM 8/24–9PM 8/25–PM 9/01–PM 9/01–PM 8/29–PM 8/30–PM 8/30–PM 8/31–PM 9/01–PM 8/30–PM 9/01–PM 9/01–PM 9/01–PM 9/01–PM 9/02–PM 8/31–PM 8/31–PM 9/02–PM 9/11–PM 9/11–PM 9/04–PM 9/05–PM 9/06–10PM 9/07–PM 9/07–2PM 9/07–PM 9/07–PM 9/07–PM 9/07–PM 9/07–PM 9/08–PM 9/07–PM 9/07–PM 9/14–PM 9/14–PM 9/14–PM 9/14–PM 9/14–PM

Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Dollar Lake Peak, North Ridge Cusick Mountain, North Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mt. Adams, South Side Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm–Cascade Pass Vesper Peak, North Face South Sister, Green Lakes Broken Top, Park Meadow/NW Ridge Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail Mt. Stone, West Ridge Forbidden Peak, East Ridge Direct Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats Tolmie Peak, Mowich Lake Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge First Mother, Knapsack Pass Mt. Washington, North Ridge Glacier Mountain, SE Ridge Elkhorn Peak (Wallowas), NE Ridge Mt. Cruiser, South Corner Middle Sister, North Ridge North Sister, South Ridge North Sister, South Ridge Middle Sister, North Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Broken Top, Green Lakes/NW Ridge North Sister, South Ridge Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Strawberry Mountain, NE Ridge N. Early Winter Spire, NW Corner–Boving Rt. Sharkfin Tower, Southeast Ridge North Sister, South Ridge Middle Sister, North Ridge Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge South Sister, Green Lakes Plummer Peak, Plummer–Standard Mt. Williamson, West Face Mt. Tyndall, North Ridge Yakima Peak, East Ridge Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge South Sister, Devil’s Lake Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Route Gothic Peak, East Side Seven Fingered Jack, Southwest Slope Mt. Maude, South Shoulder Del Campo Peak, Southwest Buttress South Sister, Devil’s Lake North Sister, South Ridge Broken Top, Green Lakes/NW Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Split Mountain, North Ridge North Sister, South Ridge Mt. Clark, Royal Basin Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge

D+(E)(L#494)(AR) A+(L#573) A+(E)(L#574) C (BCEP/ICS) A (BCEP) C (BCEP/ICS) A+ C B+(E) C+ B(E) E (AR) A+(L#529)(BCEP/ICS) B+(L#530)(BCEP/ICS) B+(E)(L#611) B+(E)(L#612) E+(E)(ICS/AR) A(H) A(C)(E)(A#412) A(H)(N) A(C)(A#388) C A+(E)(L#576) A+(E)(L#578) C+ B+ (BCEP) C+ (ICS) C+(L#394)(ICS) B+(L#395)(ICS) C (BCEP/ICS) D(A#554) B+(P)(L#490)(BCEP) C+(L#477)(ICS/AR) B+(E) A E(A#553) D+(E)(ICS) C+(L#385)(ICS) B+(L#386)(ICS) C+ A(H) A+(L#491) A(A#410) B+(E)(L#561) B+(E)(L#562) A(C)(A#411) C(A#435)(BCEP/ICS/AR) A (BCEP) C+(P)(BCEP) C B(L#506) B+(E)(L#550) B+(E)(L#551) B+(L#590)(BCEP) A (BCEP) C+ (ICS) B (BCEP) C(A#436)(BCEP/ICS/AR) B+(E)(A#561 & 562) C+(L#479)(ICS/AR) A+(E) C A(N)(BCEP)

Gary Ballou Joe Whittington Joe Whittington Rick Posekany George Shay Rick Posekany Doug Wilson Doug Wilson Amy Mendenhall Steve Warner Carol Bryan Jeffrey Welter John Meckel John Meckel Linda E. Mark Linda E. Mark Vaqas Malik Lori Freeman Ray Sheldon George Cummings Ray Sheldon Ellen Gradison Joe Whittington Joe Whittington Jill Kellogg Josh Lockerby Bruce Yatvin Rick Posekany Rick Posekany Gary Bishop Thomas Miller Ted Slupesky Daniel Bailey Linda E. Mark Andrew Bodien Thomas Miller Jeffrey Welter Rick Posekany Rick Posekany Wim Aarts Bruce Yatvin Amy Mendenhall Ray Sheldon Doug Wilson Doug Wilson Ray Sheldon Matt Carter Josh Lockerby Ted Slupesky Bob Breivogel Lee Davis Donna Vandall Donna Vandall Lee Davis George Shay John Godino Bruce Yatvin Matt Carter Doug Wilson Daniel Bailey Kevin Clark Bruce Yatvin Richard Bronder

1 11 11 5 11 8 4 5 5 5 7 6 10 10 7 7 5 9 10 9 10 8 11 11 5 10 7 8 8 7 7 10 0 7 7 5 6 8 8 4 8 9 10 4 4 10 8 10 6 7 7 7 7 7 11 11 9 8 4 0 7 7 9

488 574 573 393 583 392 599 600 483 544 577 595 530 529 612 611 402 589 388 604 412 537 578 576 560 567 460 395 394 450 553 491 479 610 597 554 593 386 385 534 478 490 411 562 561 410 436 568 481 559 590 551 550 506 584 420 457 435 563 477 526 459 421

18 —Mazama Bulletin

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Alternates Open Open Open

The online climb schedule will contain the most up to date information on climbs, and climbs will be added by leaders throughout the season. We recommend reviewing complete information on the web before applying for a climb.

Dep.

Ret.

Peak, Route

Grade & Codes

Leader

Spots Status

#

9/16–AM 9/18–AM 9/18–PM 9/18–AM 9/18–PM 9/19–AM 9/19–AM 9/19–5PM 9/19–5PM 9/20–5AM 9/20–PM 9/21–AM 9/21–4AM 9/26–AM 9/26–AM 9/27–AM 10/03–AM 10/03–AM 10/10–PM 10/11–AM 10/24–PM

9/16–PM 9/18–PM 9/19–PM 9/21–PM 9/21–PM 9/19–PM 9/21–PM 9/21–PM 9/21–PM 9/20–5PM 9/21–PM 9/21–PM 9/21–5PM 9/26–PM 9/28–PM 9/28–PM 10/05–PM 10/05–PM 10/13–PM 10/11–PM 10/25–PM

Mt. Angeles, Switchback Trail Mt. Ellinor, Summertime Route Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Mt. Berge & Buck, Buck Creek Tr./High Pass Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Del Campo Peak, South Gully Mt. Yoran, Standard Route Diamond Peak, South Ridge Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route South Sister, Devil’s Lake Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Cashmere Mountain, W. Ridge or N. Gully Lemei-Bird-Sawtooth Traverse, South to North Lexington Tower, North Face South Early Winter Spire, South Arete Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys Castle-Pinnacle-Plummer, Standard Route The Tooth, South Face

A(C)(A#408) A(C)(A#409) A(A#549)(BCEP) B+ (BCEP) B+(E) A(H)(N) B+ A(L#564) A+(L#565) C B(A#548) A C B (BCEP) B+(E)(BCEP) A+(E)(BCEP) D(E)(L#591)(ICS/AR) E(L#592)(ICS/AR) C+(E)(ICS) B(E)(BCEP) C(E)(ICS)

Ray Sheldon Ray Sheldon Donna Vandall Daniel Bailey Doug Wilson Amy Mendenhall Kevin Clark Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Steve Warner Donna Vandall Bruce Yatvin Steve Warner Gary Bishop Jon Major Daniel Bailey Lee Davis Lee Davis Jeffrey Welter Jon Major Jeffrey Welter

10 10 9 7 4 8 7 9 9 8 7 11 8 4 7 7 5 5 6 5 6

409 408 548 466 415 464 570 565 564 601 549 458 602 449 535 465 592 591 517 533 516

Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open Open

Key: Dep.=Departure Date and Time Ret.=Return Date and Time Spots=Spaces available #=Climb Number

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April/2014—19

e l g PUSH n i S

by Andrew Holman

In a little over three years of climbing, I’ve begun to notice something. I like it. I like climbing. I love the feeling of being in the elements, crawling inside my mind, processing my life, thinking about the steps that took me to this precise moment, anticipating what is going to happen next, and generally just being purely in the moment. Ok, so perhaps I’m interrupted with thoughts like: “what am I going to eat/drink/destroy when I get off of this thing?” or “When do they stop serving food in Glacier, Washington?”

And then, suddenly, TIME TO SET UP CAMP. The trance is broken, it’s time for housekeeping. It’s time to empty out that ridiculous 70+ liter pack and divvy up chores: shovel snow, melt water, blow pads, dink around with poles, make dehydrated food jokes, the usual.

It’s not so much that I dislike camping (I never tire of the Mountain House vs Backpacker’s Pantry debate), I just love climbing immensely more and I find that the quality or flow of the climb is much more interesting if this step is taken out.

As I started to rack up more climbs I started to take a mental inventory. I’m an industrial engineer by trade (before there was “ultra light” there was “lean”) and I’m always thinking “how could we have done that better/faster/stronger?” I started informally breaking the climb up in my mind as it progressed, and putting times on how long I expected each section to take (thanks ASI!).

The more you do this, the more the estimates start to catch up with the actuals. Eventually you can add up each segment of the climb to arrive at a total. I found this total was often less than 24 hours.

20 —Mazama Bulletin

So I started giving it a shot to see how doable it was in practice:

Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger

Partner(s): Amanda Barbee, Ryan Cupp, Tyson Wilder Time: ~22hrs (7:30 p.m.–5:30 p.m.)

Notes: About what I expected. The last 1,000 feet to the summit were brutally slow but coming down the perfectly-manicured DC route was fast. Two rope teams of two for faster climbing.

Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys

Partner(s): Jason Lee Time: ~18hrs (2:45 a.m.–8:40 p.m.)

Notes: In the clouds most of the time, could probably be done a bit faster in better weather with not much effort. Took two 30m ropes to leap-frog rappels in the chimneys and evenly divide weight.

Mt. Shuksan, North Face

Partner(s): Kati Summers Time: ~31.5hrs (Day 1: 3:30 p.m.–Day 2: 11 p.m.)

Notes: The approach and the route are very condition-dependent.

Approach wasn’t much better than when I climbed it in the summer, and actually took longer due to insufficient snow cover. Snow on the summit block was in poor shape requiring very slow and focused climbing, an unplanned belay, and bailing on a picket on the top.

Could definitely be done in under 24 hours with better conditions.

The pace on these climbs was not insane by any means–I have been on BCEP hikes that were more of a “death march” than these were—we just endured. There’s a tortoise and the hare joke in here somewhere: continually moving is much more important than the speed of movement. We didn’t skimp on pro or run or even jog, we just didn’t have to worry about carrying overnight gear.

I feel cheesy every time I say this, but for me the hardest part of climbing really is the mental component. More specifically, the pre-game mental component. That part where you have to give yourself a little pep talk. That part where you look in the mirror and say “climbing is FUN and this is going to be FUN.” However, if I go into a climb thinking “Okay, this is going to take close to 24 hours, and y’know what? That’s OK,” it sets a tone that virtually eliminates any anxiety on the actual climb. All you have to do is keep moving, simple. Just keep thinking of that car, the one with the reclining seats, and the cooler full of beer, and the casual shoes.

I mean, how rested do you REALLY feel after that short nap in your icy tent a mile or two above sea level? How motivated do you feel to leave that cushy down bag behind? If you’re anything like me the answer to these is probably, not very.

It needs to be said that I would never consider doing this on an unexplored aspect of a mountain, unless my climbing partner(s) had such experience. I had been up Fisher Chimneys twice, and down three times, before trying it in a single push. I had climbed the North Face once. And, while I hadn’t climbed Fuhrer Finger, I had climbed Kautz Glacier, and expected the route to be similar, if not a bit easier (which it was). Altitude can be an issue on a mountain like Mt. Rainier, but there aren't much data suggesting a single night at 10,000 ft. will do much for your red blood cell count, although it might make you feel a bit less drowsy. Contrary to popular belief, acclimatization to high altitude can continue for months or even years.

Is this for you? Maybe, maybe not. As a little experiment though, try keeping track of how long your climbs are taking: car-to-camp, camp-to-summit, summit-to-camp, and campto-car. I think you may be surprised.

Andrew “why don’t you like camping?!”

Holman hails from Tampa, Florida and came to Portland for the beer (but stayed for the mountains). He had zero mountain experience before he became involved with the Mazamas.

He took BCEP in 2010, ICS in 2010-2011, ASI in 2011, and AR in 2012. Andrew is currently in the Climbing Leadership Development Program.

Left page: Kati Summers descending the Lower Curtis Glacier on Mt. Shuksan.

Top: Kati Summers taking a break at a belay station at 3:50 a.m. on the North Face of Mt. Shuksan.

Middle: Ryan Cupp and Amanda Barbee make their way up Fuhrer Finger on Mt. Rainier at 6 a.m.

Bottom: Enjoying some gorgeous scenery on the hike back to the car at 7:15 p.m. All photos: Andrew Holman.

April/2014—21

MAZAMA EXPEDITIONS

H TEC HINE MAC

This year the Mazama Expedition Committee provided grants to ten expeditions. These expeditions range from Mongolia, Nepal, Patagonia, Alaska and to points in between. We plan to expand our grants for next year so be sure to go the Mazama website and apply. You need not be a Mazama member to apply.

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April/2014—23

Crag Access—Why is it Important?

by Kenny Allen What is it about Smith Rock that is so attractive to climbers? The answer to this bit of rhetoric in two words is easy access. What is so great about Portland’s local crags such as Rocky Butte, Broughton’s Bluff, or Ozone/ Farside? Easy access. Why is (and has) Beacon Rock been THE local alpine and big-wall training ground of choice for nearly 60 years? Again, the answer trickles down to ease of access.

Of the five (or I guess four) above

“The point is that access, in general, is such an important matter that it affects us all, as an organization.” mentioned crags, easy access to good climbing is the common denominator, and this is just one definition for the word “access.” Defined this way we are saying that we “can get to” the crag with relative ease. But let’s step away from this idea for a moment and examine another face of access.

Smith Rock and Beacon Rock have access issues that restrict climbing in certain areas at particular times of the year. The cause at each is nesting raptors (which is a another discussion in itself) on a section of cliff that is also desirable for rock climbing.

Other climbing areas around Oregon with this access problem include, but are not limited to Trout Creek and the extensive grounds of the Menagerie Wilderness further south. Closer to Portland, but representing a more bureaucratic access problem, is the Madrone Wall—which is actually affected by raptors as well.

In all of these cases, access is defined under the idea that climbing is simply 24 —Mazama Bulletin

“not allowed” at certain times, or even at all. And now that there is a clearer understanding of access and how it affects climbing at the crags, we are ready to move into the abyss a little deeper.

At the first access committee meeting I listened to questions concerning the “why” associated with access. Why are we concerned about access at the crags? Why is there this resistance to access in the first place? In addition to the “why” were questions of “where.” One individual’s question regarded the access issue with the eastern slopes of Mt. Adams and the question centered around where else access was an issue besides Mt. Adams.

These are excellent questions that need open answers.

At our foundation, we (the Mazamas) are a mountaineering organization dedicated to climbing (and hiking), education, and also conservation of the mountains and mountain environments.

Mountaineering and alpinism are two fairly synonymous words that when defined allude to climbing (something). When many think of mountains they also think of snow since higher elevations usually play host to this familiar medium. But no matter what the snow-capped peak may be, underneath the white blanket of cold they all have one other common bond: Rock! Yes, mountaineering also includes rock and therefore rock climbing. And once one

realizes the greater connection between rock climbing and mountaineering it becomes easy to understand that the discipline of mountaineering actually begins at the crags. With this knowledge, the latter definition of access to the crags suddenly becomes much more relevant.

Since our organization also promotes education in mountaineering we should be very concerned with access issues to the best crags at which instruction in basic climbing and mountaineering techniques can be taught. Many among the ranks of the Mazamas have enjoyed the environment at Smith Rock and I won’t say an unkind word about the place. I have enjoyed all my time spent at that central Oregon rock oasis, but this is the very point of Smith Rock: it’s in central Oregon, at least three and a half hours from Portland (legally). This is not exactly conveniently located for the climber looking to hone his or her skills on a sunny Saturday afternoon when a trip over to Terrebonne is not possible—for whatever reason. Now I digress because I am specifically thinking of Beacon Rock as the prime location to be practicing our craft, but any one of the other crags have climbing that can teach movement over stone. It’s only Beacon Rock, however, that can introduce the elements of being in the alpine environment – even if it isn’t above treeline. To get back on route, to use the climbing vernacular, the point is not that Beacon Rock is a better training ground than any of the other crags, or that Beacon Rock has access issues, or even the thought that the same access issue which affects Beacon Rock could at some point also affect other local crags. The point is that access, in general, is such an important matter that it affects us all, as an organization. There is not a climber in the world who hasn’t been affected by some kind of access issue, whether it’s climbing Mt. Everest or scaling the walls in Yosemite. If you are

Boots on the Ground

by Barry Maletzky tying in for a multipitch adventure in the North Cascades, Tuolumne or Red Rocks, or brandishing ice tools in New England, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, or Utah, or even sporting an ice axe for a basic glacier slog on our big hill, then access is an issue of which you should be very concerned.

When we already have the Access Fund doing work at the national level, one might ask, “Why should we be concerned with it at the local level?” This question has vexed me for a long time and I was asking it myself for a while. But the answer is simple. The issues we face locally with access to climbing will not make it into the Access Fund’s viewshed unless we are vocal about them. The more positive noise that we make about improving access—and I stress the word “positive” because it is easy to become negative about this—the more support we will see from the longer hallways of the Access Fund, and the better they will be able to assist us at increasing access at our favorite places. Every location I’ve mentioned above is a place that at least one of us is very concerned about, and by forming as many voices in the quest for better access we will eventually learn that we are all one voice speaking for the same goal: more climbing!

The question that most will ask is “What can I do to help?” Though the answer isn’t as obvious, it begins with simply educating yourself about what is most important to you about your favorite climbing area(s).

What is it you do not know about the Menagerie Wilderness, Madrone Wall, Red Wall and The Monument at Smith Rock, and of course, Beacon Rock? Information is power. The better informed we are of both the current status of these places as well as their historical significance, the more likely we are to make changes that will benefit us as climbers while at the same time applying a strategy of conservation that will allow our children to benefit also. Along with becoming educated, one can become involved with the Mazama Access Committee to address the issue of access on the local level.

Think of this as the beginning of a long climb: we’ll get where we want to go but only if we rope up together for it. There is no other way.

There are few random comments we remember exactly but I wanted to share one I will never forget that may be of interest to Mazama members: A Mazama climb leader and his wife were in the generous habit of participating in a program in which Japanese teenagers could share their home and spend an academic year in an American high school.

At that time, our practice was to go on conditioning hikes each spring weekend with him and his wife so, of course we would invite these teens to come along. One of them, Miyuki, had no equipment so we visited REI to buy her adequate boots.

We chose an easier trip that weekend and, once at the trailhead, we proceeded to put on packs and boots. Miyuki, who spoke fluent English, then said, “This is the first time I have ever walked on the earth.” I took this as some sort of mystical Asian sentiment, but, on further questioning, we learned what she meant. It turned out that Miyuki was speaking not metaphysically, but literally. She had walked on wood, concrete, carpet, asphalt and marble but never on dirt, grass, stones nor snow.

Living in Tokyo, this 15 year-old had walked only on manufactured materials and never on a natural surface.

“Surely there are parks in Tokyo,” we asked but Miyuki had never had the time, she said, to visit one. I will never forget this astonishing comment, almost incomprehensible to us then, but in retrospect perhaps not unique, even for some youthful inhabitants of Portland. It always makes me grateful to have had the pleasure of living in the Northwest rather than in the world’s largest city and of appreciating the joys of walking on uneven terrain.

We have kept in touch with Miyuki through the years. She is now in her 20’s and recently sent photos of her and her new family hiking in the Japanese Alps.

“This is the first time I have ever walked on the earth.”

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April/2014—25

Moving Forward with Cross Training

by Eugene Lewins I was recently taking a colleagues’ yoga class, and one of the students— with the kind of flexible body that others in class often envy—asked for suggestions to ease her shoulder pain.

“When I do several classes a week, I get more and more achy.” I loved the teacher’s response—take a pause on so much yoga, buy a Therapy Band, and I’ll show you how to strengthen and stabilize those joints. Even yoga can benefit from cross training!

That’s the primary message I hope has come through our winter season training articles. Rather than ‘more of the same’, consider cross training when you experience overuse injury, plateau in performance or simply get bored. Yes, overuse can also be in the mind! How do I bring fresh excitement to being active, in a way that will enable me to return quickly to peak performance?

Our patterns of movement and thought are pretty hardwired. Even when we start a new activity, we tend to fall back on our familiar approach.

It’s as if we are picking a new tool out of the box, but gripping it in the same old way. Here are some tips on how to shake it up.

Tips

Consider showing up with a different intent, rhythm, mental focus.

If your main activity, for example, is rock or ice climbing, and your focus is working up the number grades, you could easily default into the same approach with weights, trying to maximize the numbers of pounds you can lift. Instead, perhaps explore endurance goals. Or, maybe you are into hiking, and can already chug along all day at a steady pace. A new approach with the rowing machine might be seeking an intense cardio spike. Of course, check with that health care provider first!

Warm up before your activity.

Stretch after. Warming up by doing a light version of the activity prepares the muscles, reducing injury risk.

Stretching is generally more effective when the muscles are warmed up and able to relax and lengthen.

Focus on alignment over performance in your cross training.

Remember, the value comes in getting out of our existing patterns of movement. Resist the temptation to ‘check out’ on the treadmill with the TV as distraction, and instead add some form of mind/body component.

Tai Chi anyone?

At an anatomical level, can you work the same muscle group in a new way? We tend to work muscles with concentric contraction, i.e. shortening them to get a ‘pump’, such as in the classic bicep curl.

Always doing this type of work does not target the diversity of fibers that make up a muscle. In contrast, yoga often holds a pose to work an isometric contraction. Another option, slowly lowering a weight as the muscle lengthen works an eccentric contraction. Congratulations. You have cross trained the same muscle, making it more functional to deal with the variety of challenges in outdoor adventures.

Features: 4.5 miles to Smith Rock State Park Soaking hot tub Nearby dining and shopping

26 —Mazama Bulletin

Learn more: vrbo.com/437418 Area for sorting/inspecting climbing gear Fantastic views; quiet neighborhood Local owners (hosts)

Honorary Member

AYM Activities

The Adventurous Young Mazamas leads activities year round targeting those in their 20s, 30s, early 40s and of course anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

Spend your Spring with AYM! Want to hike or climb this spring? Join the Adventurous Young Mazamas! No need to sign up ahead of time for our climb nights!

Monday, April 7—Climb Night: Club Sport 6:30–11 p.m $12/person AYM will be around the entrance for the 30 minutes of the night then on the floor after. Ask them about how to get set up and find a partner, as well as more about AYM and Mazamas.

Thursday, April 17—Climb Night: Portland Rock Gym 6:30–10 p.m $10/person AYM will be around the entrance for the 30 minutes of the night then on the floor after. Ask them about how to get set up and find a partner, as well as more about AYM and Mazamas.

Saturday, April 26—Mt. Defiance via Starvation Ridge Loop Do you have something to prove or just feel defiant? What other mountain gives you that super workout with ample pain and then caps it off with a beautiful view of radio towers? Although this is essentially a conditioning hike for those training for a “real” mountain, it does offer excellent views of many of the big-time mountains (Hood, Rainier, St. Helens…you name it), has a lake, a small waterfall and some unique terrain. Bring trekking poles (recommended in some spots even for you purists) snow/ice traction devices (email the leader for suggestions), plenty of water, extra layers, your favorite energy bars and a hearty lunch. We will take breaks but expect a steady pace. This hike is considered very difficult (but doable), so don’t expect to handle this if you’ve been surfing the couch all winter with no training in advance! Also, do expect a full day (i.e. don’t have dinner plans in Portland at 7 PM). We will likely stop for a beverage and dinner at a nearby pub when done. Meet at the Gateway Transit Center at 7 a.m. sharp.

Elevation gain: 4,940 feet. Distance: 11.6 miles.

Drive: 95 miles round trip. Limited to 12. Email leader Kit Irelan for a spot: kit_irelan@yahoo.com

Nominations Sought for Honorary Mazama Membership. Honorary members are those who, in the words of the Mazama by-laws, “have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than ten years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities.”

Each year only one person may be elected. Any Mazama member may submit the name of a candidate.

A nominating committee made up of the chairpersons of all standing committees will consider all proposed names. If the committee finds that a person is qualified and the purposes of the Mazamas would be furthered by the nomination, the nomination shall be presented to the Executive Council. To assist the nominating committee and the council in making an informed choice, nominations must be accompanied by a statement detailing a candidate’s qualifications.

Please submit nominations to Mazama Executive Council Member Meg Goldberg for consideration at meg@ goldbergmediation.com

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS December 28, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Scott Osbron.

Arielle Cooke, Amad Doratotaj, Chris Killmer December 29, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Jeff Hawkins, Asst: Rayce Bouche.

Victor Goldman, Kati Mayfield, Aleksi Merilainen, Sue Nelson, Freda Sherburne, Ryan Unger, Glenn Widener January 18, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Whit Fellers, Asst: Alex Lockard.

Pam Monheimer.

Welcome, Mazamas.

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Receive 30% off your entire purchase at the Mountain Hardwear Portland Store from 4/1 – 4/30/2014.

Valid only at specified location. Limit one discount per household. Must surrender original, unaltered coupon at the time of purchase. Offer may not be applied to prior purchases, combined with any other offers, used online or at any other store, redeemed by employees, or applied to gift card purchases or shipping charges. @2014 Columbia Sportswear USA Corporation.

Logo Gear HOODIES: Navy blue, sizes from youth through 2XL—$25 members/$30 nonmembers T-SHIRTS: Navy blue, gender specific sizing, women’s XS–XL, men’s S–2XL (very limited number of gray shirts available)—$12 members/$15 nonmembers April/2014—27

Old Timers We lead a wide variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace.

Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.

Task Force Meeting—Friday, April 25 at Noon, MMC, room 3 Are you interested in helping to develop activities for folks who want to hike, climb, backpack, etc. at a more leisurely pace, savoring the experience?

The Task Force to reimagine the Old Timers is open to all who are interested, whether you are a 25-year member or not.

At our first Task Force meeting March 14 we discussed who the Old Timers are and how to expand participation and best serve the needs of this group. At our second meeting we’ll continue this discussion, begin developing a mission statement, talk about a name change, and add more specific events.

Please contact Kate Evans at kateevans97@gmail.com or 503-6356540 if you have any questions.

Eagle Creek Hike with two options Saturday April 26 The task force, exploring how to increase options for long time Mazamas (or anyone interested), is offering a double decker hike. Two leaders will provide hikers with the chance to either go to Punchbowl Falls or to continue on to High Bridge. Round trip the hike to Punchbowl is 4.2 miles and 400 feet elevation. The High Bridge option will be 6.6 miles and 600 feet. Both hikes will be led at a leisurely pace, but we anticipate that the pace will be somewhat faster for the longer hike so that everyone can return to the cars at about the same time.

Leaders: Billie Goodwin, 503-2546121, and Diana Forester, 503-2887782.

We will leave at 9 a.m. and carpool from Gateway Transit Center; please plan to arrive a few minutes earlier. Bring lunch and enthusiasm as well as those ten essentials.

We would appreciate your feedback on the idea of the double decker hike even if you do not want to come on this one. Should we increase the mileage for

the longer hike? Is the time convenient?

What have we forgotten? Please call Diana or Billie with any comments or suggestions.

Tuesday, May 6 at 10 a.m. at the Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden Beat the Mother’s Day crowd at the Rhododendron Garden and also enter for free. (No fee on Tuesdays.) We will meet at the entrance at 10 a.m. at 6015 SE 28th, but not stay in one large group. Feel free to bring your camera and wander. Some may also choose to hike in the Reed College canyon. We’ll meet for lunch on the second floor of Jade Bistro, Teahouse, and Patisserie, 7912 SE 13th Avenue. If you are coming to lunch please rsvp to Kate Evans at kateevans97@gmail.com or 503.635.6540.

July 5 Potluck at Dick and Jane Miller’s Good news! The very generous Millers will be hosting their 5th of July potluck at their home again. See more information in the June Bulletin.

Join us for our spring Tree Planting Event, hosted by the Conservation Committee When: April 26, 2014. Carpool leaves the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., at 8 a.m. or meet us at Zigzag Ranger Station, 70220 E. Hwy. 26 at 9 a.m.

Where: Sandy River Basin/Zigzag Area Bring lunch, work gloves, rubber boots (optional).

Please sign up by sending an email to conservation@mazamas.org or calling the MMC office at 503-227-2345

28 —Mazama Bulletin

Mazama Families Winter is winding down, but Mazama Families is more active than ever. The highly successful 91st Mazama Winter Family Festival took place at Mazama Lodge March 1 and 2. Overall attendance hovered around 100, and the lodge was packed to capacity as a significant number stayed over Saturday night. Some of the activities enjoyed included sledding on Mazama hill, snow sculpting, Birkebeiner-style racing, and, preparation for an upcoming snow camping session, the building of a group igloo, which was subsequently slept in.

Interestingly, attendance at Families’ Lodge Nights has itself grown since Mt. Hood actually got some snow, and the lodge has noted a significant increase in Saturday day usage (40 plus parents and kids at one recent event).

The Families Committee is busy planning late winter, spring and summer activities. The snow camping orientation attracted 10 parents (and five kids, most of whom spent the meeting exploring the fourseason tents the committee leaders had put up for demonstration), and the event itself is expected to have 22 parents and kids, from eight families. Clinics, hikes and climbs, including family ascents of Mount St. Helens and South Sister are in the active planning stage. If you are interested in leading or organizing any activities from picnics to climbs, please get in touch with us at families@mazamasorg.

Finally, a friendly reminder climb cards are now free for kids 14 and under. Thanks to the Climb Committee for making this happen!

CLUBSPORT CLIMBING—SAT., APRIL 12, 4 P.M. Please join us for kid- and parent-friendly indoor climbing (5.7– 5.12). We will set up kid-swapping (taking turns watching/belaying the children, so the parents can get in a few routes themselves).

If this is your and/or your kids’ first time climbing at ClubSport, please arrive early enough to harness up, pay (at the Adventure Center Desk), fill out a child liability waiver and sign-in for a safety orientation. Upon arriving, go directly to the Adventure Center to pay and sign liability waivers at the desk. No registration is needed.

FAMILIES LODGE NIGHT FRIDAY APRIL 18 (AND SATURDAY DAY USE, APRIL 19) Join us at Mazama Lodge for pizza, sledding, a movie and maybe some pool, ping-pong or a board game or two. After breakfast on Satur-

day, we will have a family-centric snowshoe, sledding/xc skiing, and/ or some folks may head over in a private group to go resort skiing.

Nonmembers can stay at Mazama rates for these family events and kids 12 and under stay free. To register for the night and meals, please go to the link: http://tinyurl. com/FNL-4-18-14.

FAMILIES NIGHT AT THE NE CIRCUIT BOULDERING GYM—SAT., APRIL 27, 5 P.M. Please join us for family bouldering and/or come and use one of the many slacklines. We plan to swap supervising the kids so adults can explore the gym at large and get a few routes in. If this is your and/ or your kid’s first time visiting The Circuit (either location), you can fill out the waivers online to save time registering. Right click here: http://thecircuitgym.com/. No other registration is needed.

Spend five days trekking a remote Bedouin trail to the ancient city of Petra. Additional nights in the desert of Wadi Rum and Amman.

Ranked by National Geographic as one of the 15 best hikes in the world, this trip is supported. You do not have to carry any gear.

Contact Donovan Pacholl for the full itinerary.

donovan@embarkadventures.com/503-922-1050.

April/2014—29

EVENING PROGRAMS

Programs are held at the MMC (527 SE 43rd Avenue) and begin at 7 p.m.

Shows are free and open to Mazama members and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley, Dyanne Foster, Dave Groudle, John Leary, Sharon Leary, Meryl Lipman, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Ric Russell.

Around & About Mount Hood: Exploring the Timberline Trail, Access Trails & Day Hikes—April 2 Sonia Buist presents a program about her book, Around & About Mount Hood, a pocket-sized hiking guide to the 41-mile Timberline Trail. It is one of the most spectacular hiking trails in the world. We will see gorgeous views of the rugged mountain, its alpine meadows carpeted with wildflowers, beautiful streams, glacier-fed rivers and serene forests and hear Sonia’s expert description of the trail that circles the mountain. mthoodhiking.com

MAZAMA MEMBERS ONLY Quiet Cozy Alternative to Nearby Mazama Lodge Authentic 1939 Log Cabin

Wi-fi * Laundry * Sleeps 6+

3 Day Package $250

Kurt: glaciersalpha@gmail.com 30 —Mazama Bulletin

Oregon for the Curious— April 16

Classic Climbs in Bugaboos Provincial Park—April 9 One of the greatest alpine playgrounds in all of North America is Bugaboos Provincial Park with it’s pristine back-country, soaring granite spires, undulating glaciers, and alpine snow and rock routes that are the dreams of any aspiring alpinist. The awe-inspiring images and intimidating route descriptions of Bugaboo routes lured Rebecca Schob and her team into the Purcell Range of the Bugaboos in southeast British Columbia last July. Now it’s waiting for you! Join us to share videos, beta and tales of two of the 50 Classic North American Climbs: the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire and West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, plus more!

Author William L. Sullivan takes us on a slide show tour of Oregon’s oddest hiking and travel destinations, from an island sea cave to a forgotten canyon of colored pinnacles.

Expect off-the-beaten-path tales of history and geology, as told by the bestselling author of a new short story collection, The Oregon Variations.

Sullivan has hiked every trail he could find in the state for his popular “100 Hikes” guidebooks, a series that he updates continually. He has also written four novels and many nonfiction books about Oregon, including Hiking Oregon’s History, Oregon Favorites and The Case of D. B. Cooper’s Parachute. His journal of a 1,000-mile hike he took across Oregon Listening for Coyote, was chosen by the Oregon Cultural Heritage Commission as one of Oregon’s “100 Books,” the 100 most significant books in the state’s history.

Nominations Wanted:

Mazama Outdoor Leadership Cohort Mazama members, we need you to nominate a budding leader to participate in the inaugural Mazama Outdoor Leadership Cohort.

When: This five-session course will take place in May–June 2014 •

What: The Outdoor Leadership Cohort is a five-session leadership training program designed to teach people who are passionate about the Mazamas and the outdoors the basic set of skills they will need to succeed as an outdoor leader.

•

Who: Nominate anyone you have met through the Mazamas who demonstrates superior leadership qualities. This program is open to all Mazama members but keep in mind that we want to focus the program on people who are new to leadership at the Mazamas.

•

• •

Session 1: Leadership Groundwork, Monday, May 19 Session 2: Safety First, Wednesday, May 21 Session 3: Group Leadership, Wednesday, May 28 Session 4: Trip Planning and Execution, Monday, June 2 Session 5: Capstone weekend at the Mazama Lodge, Sat-Sun June 6–7

Where: MMC and Mazama Lodge How: Follow this link to the Leadership Cohort Nomination Form: http://tinyurl.com/ leadershipcohort Questions? Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org

Membership Benefits Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books Save 20%. Get the code on the Mazama website in the members section.

Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% non-sale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, Ore.) 10% Rock & Ice Magazine Annual subscription 40% off. Go to Mazama website for code.

U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

Hike the Timberline Trail!

Join the eighth annual hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend—Sat., Aug. 31 through Mon., Sep. 2. This is an exciting time to be on Mt. Hood, with the autumn feel in the air, while we are treated to sun-drenched days. This hike includes all meals (including pack lunches) and dorm lodging (bring your sleeping bag and pillow) at Mazama Lodge, along with van shuttle transportation to and from trailheads. Each day, we hike approximately 13–15 miles of the Timberline Trail with just a daypack. This allows us more freedom to explore and enjoy the vistas.

Each evening, the vans return us to the Mazama Lodge near Government Camp, where we will enjoy great food, hot showers and a comfortable place to sleep—as well as a few good stories from the day before turning in for the night. Don’t miss out on this great event. To apply online, or to find out more information, go to the Round-the-Mountain page at: http://tinyurl.com/mazamasrtm.

Questions? E-mail us at rtm@mazamas.org.

Go Hiking!

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike.

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/aym Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions.

To lead a hike in May, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.

HK B2 Apr 02 (Wed) Wygant Trail Exploration. Tom Davidson tedclimbs@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Come out to the dry east end of the Gorge and see the amazing amount of trail work done to help restore the Wygant and Chetwoot Trail. Bring pruning shears and we might even be able to do the whole loop. Caution—gloves and long pants, etc.—lots of poison oak. Celebrate the work! 8.5 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 110 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Apr 04 (Fri) Forest Park Loop. Mark Sanzone msanzone@yahoo.com. Meet at Springville Road TH off Skyline Blvd. 1/2 day event, done by noon. 503-679-0962 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 None 9 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 05 (Sat) Eagle Creek (High Bridge).

Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Nice early spring hike on Eagle Creek to Punchbowl Falls, then to High Bridge. May be a little snow so bring traction devices, not likely but we’ll be prepared. Great lunch spot at High Bridge along with stunning views of the canyon. 6.6 miles 700 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 9 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 05 (Sat) Falls Creek (Upper & Lower).

Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. In the Wind River area. Shaded forest hike with a stream and large waterfalls. 8.4 miles 1200 ft. Dr. 90 Gateway 8 a.m. MU TT Apr 05 (Sat) Kings Mt Trail Tender. Richard Pope 503-860-8789. We need to finish adding and cleaning drain dips started last fall, as well as brushing out some new growth on the lower slopes of our adopted trail. All tools and training provided, bring boots and gloves, dress for the weather!

Contact leader if interested. 4 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 66 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Apr 06 (Sun) Sevenmile Hill. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wander through the wildflower hills outside of The Dalles. This is an off-trail route with views of the surrounding landscape. 7 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 160 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 06 (Sun) Henline Mountain and Henline Falls. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. First we’ll hike to the old lookout site atop Henline Mountain, snow conditions permitting. It’s 2.8 miles and 2200 ft. to the top. Then we’ll drive back up the road one mile to the Henline Falls Trailhead, gaining 800 ft. in a 0.9 mile walk to the falls. 7.4 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 65 Public Parking Lot at 2nd and B Ave in Corvallis 8 a.m.

32 —Mazama Bulletin

HK B2 Apr 09 (Wed) Indian Point via Gorton Creek Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Best lunch view spot in the gorge. Nice walk up Nick Eaton ridge, then down to the point and back to Herman Creek. 8.9 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 78 TH MMC 8 a.m. MU TT Apr 11 (Fri) Elk Mt Trail Tender. Richard Pope 503-860-8789. The lower slopes of Elk Mt need extensive brushing to ensure a safe and sustainable trail system. This adopted trail is heavily used by BCEP and others for training. All tools provided, bring boots and gloves, dress for any weather! 3 miles 1,00 ft. Dr. 66 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 12 (Sat) Horsetail Falls/ Triple Falls Loop. Ursula Edlund 503-235-8059. Wilderness— Limit 12. A beautiful hike in the Gorge. At one spot the view extends up the Columbia to Beacon Rock, than down and over a dramatic metal footbridge and lunch at a scenic creekside. 6.2 miles 1,450 ft.

Dr. 60 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Apr 12 (Sat) Silver Falls State Park - Perimeter Loop. Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Nice alternative to the more popular trails. Hike in solitude thru lovely forests, on quaint wooden bridges over babbling creeks. Lots of switchbacks along the way. 10.3 miles 1750 ft. Dr. 115 MMC 8 a.m.

HK C1.5 Apr 12 (Sat) Horsetail to Wahkeena Traverse. Nancy Goering ngoering@att.net. Car shuttle hike Wilderness—Limit 12. How many waterfalls can you see in one hike? This one will give you approximately 30, depending on how you count them. We’ll set up a car shuttle between Horsetail Falls and Wahkeena Falls. With the bridge out at Multnomah Falls these trail heads could be crowded so we’ll start early. We’ll hike up from Horsetail Falls, over Franklin Ridge, cross over Multnomah Falls and push on to Wahkeena Falls. We go in and out of wilderness so email me to assure a spot, or take your chance at Gateway. 13 miles 3,300 ft. Dr. 63 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 13 (Sun) Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. This hike features multiple waterfalls as well as rushing streams. We will adjust the usual route to adapt to trail conditions near Multnomah Falls. 5.4 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule.

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 ft. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m.

Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat.

Total time two hours. 5 miles, 500 ft Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark). Group leaves the MMC promptly at 6 p.m.

HK C2 Apr 13 (Sun) Rock of Ages Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Up and up we go, where it ends we will be sure to kno. Steep Conditioner with a catwalk and Horsetail to boot. 10.6 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 14 (Mon) Drift Creek Falls. Bill Middleton 503-816-0549. Nice trail with a 150 ft. suspension bridge and 100 ft. waterfall. 3 miles 340 ft. Dr. 140 TH Sherwood Park and Ride at Regal Cinemas 7 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 16 (Wed) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness— Limit 12. A classic Gorge hike with less crowds since will be midweek. There will be continuous beautiful views of waterfalls and the canyon. And look forward to seeing early spring green as well as some wildflowers along the way. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2.5 Apr 18 (Fri) Hillsdale to Council Crest Hike. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. We will meet on foot at Wilson HS parking lot. Scenic urban walk from Hillsdale up through SW Portland neighborhoods to Council Crest (highest point in Portland).We will descend to Hillsdale via another route. Great views of Portland and the major peaks! 5 miles +500 ft. Dr. 0 Hillsdale Shopping district. (SW Sunset & Capitol) 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Apr 19 (Sat) Memaloose Hills Loop.

Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Loop hike through wildflower meadows east of Mosier, much of it off-trail. 7.0 miles 500 ft. Dr. 140 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 19 (Sat) Bald Butte. Dick Meissner 503-692-9065. This hike is in the Hood River Valley, off of Highway 35. We will go up the Oak Ridge trail to the Surveyors Ridge trail. Hopefully, there will be some nice view of the valley from Bald Butte. 8.4 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 144 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK C1.5 Apr 19 (Sat) Franklin Ridge Loop.

Marilyn Zigler mszhike@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Combine Horsetail, Franklin Ridge, Larch & loop around by Multnomah falls on the 400 trail. We’ll tackle the elevation at the beginning & enjoy waterfalls, creeks & woods on this clockwise loop. Easy pace, long day. 14 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Apr 20 (Sun) Tom McCall Point/Rowena Plateau. Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. Flower and photo hike. Easy pace to stop and smell the flowers. 7 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 140 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 20 (Sun) Grizzly Peak. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Near Detroit Lake, Great views of Mount Jefferson 10 miles 2,700 ft. Dr. 180 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Apr 23 (Wed) Siouxon Creek (to Wildcat Falls). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Canyon walk along a beautiful stream, lush old grow with solitude. 10.2 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 70 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A1 Apr 26 (Sat) Old Oregon City. Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456. Oregon City was the first incorporated community west of the Missouri River. We will start our walk by visiting the Municipal Elevator then walk the Promenade overlooking industrialized Willamette Falls. Along the way we also pass historic homes, a hidden staircase, Canemah Bluff Natural Area, a cemetery started in 1864, and the Museum of the Oregon Territory. Finally Singer Hill Cafe is well worth a visit for a late lunch, hanging gardens and art gallery. Bring snacks and water. 5 miles 300 ft.

Dr. 0 Carnegie Public Library, 606 John Adams St, OR City 10 a.m.

HK B2 Apr 26 (Sat) Kings Mountain. Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Great hike for views in the coast range. Expect the bright green and wild flowers of spring to add to this experience. Steady elevation gain from the start promising a good workout in short amount of time! 5.4 miles 2780 ft. Dr. 66 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK C2 Apr 26 (Sat) Angels and Devils Rest.

Wayne Lincoln 503-245-9193. Wilderness—Limit 12. Nice workout for a cold day. This hike passes through Angels Rest, Devils Rest, Wahkeena Spring and Angels Rest again. Great views on a nice day but be prepared for beastly weather. Wilderness area, please register with leader. 9 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 Apr 27 (Sun) Salmon River Trail (Upper).

Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike begins by following the Salmon River and then climbs through a nice forest to a view overlooking the canyon carved out by the river. 7.2 miles 950 ft. Dr. 82 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2.5 Apr 27 (Sun) Wahkeeena Falls to Devils Rest. Kate Evans 503-635-6540. We’ll stop at Wahkeena Springs on the way up on this wooded hike, Lunch on the bluff. 7.2 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 44 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Apr 27 (Sun) Mount Defiance. Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Reach the highest point in the Columbia River Gorge while taking in Hole in the Wall Falls, Lancaster Falls, Bear Lake, Warren Lake, and the very scenic loop back down Starvation Creek Ridge.

This is an excellent conditioning hike for those preparing for Mt. Hood which on a sunny day beckons from the summit. The steep hike down necessitates careful foot placement in a few locations. 11.9 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 Gateway 7 a.m.

HK A1.5 Apr 28 (Mon) Tamanawas Falls. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Follow Cold Spring Creek to 100 ft Tamanawas Falls. Creeks, views, log bridges & waterfalls make this a great Spring hike. 3.6 miles 500 ft. Dr. 136 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU. HK B2 Apr 30 (Wed) Hamilton Mountain Loop.

Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Nice hike in late April because of the volume of the falls, the early spring flowers and great views of the Gorge. Great workout with lots of rewards. 7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88 State Park MMC 8 a.m.

James Mater, Meryl Lipman, Susan Bailey and Mark Thornton make the final push to the summit of Table Mountain in the gorge in late February. Ice and deep snow made for a challenging, but fun, hike. Photo: Regis Krug

Backpack to the Enchanted Valley (Olympics): May 30–June 1 Most people would rate this as their best backpack in the Olympics. Enchanting.

Babbling brooks, lush forests, waterfalls plunging down sheer walls and an abundance of wildlife including marmots, deer, elk and black bears. This popular hike leads up to an alpine basin with a historic chalet. Total of 13 miles (one way) and 2,000 ft. of elevation gained with two overnight camps Sound like something you might want to backpack to—come along—only 10 people total. To get more information and/or to apply, contact Tom Davidson (tedclimbs@gmail.com)

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory .

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; SalmonCreek P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P&R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton– Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th.

Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame.

Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

April/2014—33

Adventure Travel

outings

LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2014/2015

The Mother of All Street Rambles—New York City May 7–15 (date change!)

Lodging is in a very desirable location close to Central Park.

Hike Central Park and visit sites of interest all over Manhattan, including the Hudson River, East River and Long Island via ramble and occasional ferry or subway.

It is time that New York City learned who the Mazamas are!

NYC will seem a lot smaller once it is rambled! Initial registration fee has three tiers that include Mazamas fees: two to a bed: $532; single bed: $657; sleeping bag (count must match single bed registrations): $407.

Airfare ($320–$400) is not included and not required at time of registration. All registration money goes to lodging and miscellaneous refundable fees.

For more information contact leader John Davis, 503-358-5900.

Assistant leader is Steven Watts.

For pictures of lodging, itinerary, additional information and additional costs, see outing’s website where no stone is left unturned: http://208.106.134.151/ NYC2014.aspx

Great Smoky Mountains—Hikes & Culture May 10–18 Full/Alternates Only. Contact: Jim Selby selbyjb@comcast.net, ph. 828-508-5094 (leader).

Italian Dolomites Outing May 31–June 15 See the February Bulletin or the website for complete details.

This outing will consist of alpine climbing, rock climbing, via ferrata (self-belayed on existing anchors and cables with specialized leashes or kits), hiking, mountain biking and exploring. I am proposing a limit of 12 people for a total maximum team size of 14 including myself and the assistant leader. Minimum group size 7.

34 —Mazama Bulletin

This outing will potentially include climbing of all levels, rock climbing of all grades, all-day multi-pitch routes, via ferrata levels from 1 to 5, spectacular scenery for hiking and biking, plus waterfalls and plenty of amazing scenery. In addition to all of that, the area is steeped in history surrounding WWI and the mountain war that took place between Austria and Italy.

For more information, contact outing leader: Ryan Christie at ryandchristie@yahoo.com or assistant leader is Kevin Clark at mandrake@europa.com.

Corsica Long-Distance Hiking June 14–30 The GR20, 125 miles along the crest of the island of Corsica, is a rocky and varying high route with scrambling options and both alpine and ocean views. Using a local company as outfitters, we will carry only day packs and sleep in refuges or set tents, enjoying simple local cuisine at group meals. 16 days of hiking, with the longest day being 13 miles and 3,300 foot ascent, and highest altitude 7,300 feet. Trip leader speaks French and both leader and assistant have led European tours and hiked longdistance trails. Group size 8–10.

Outing costs $3,000, plus airfare, $500 deposit.

Leader: Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@gmail.com), Assistant Leader: Kathleen Hahn.

Chamonix—Mt. Blanc Climbing July 7–21 Full/Alternates Only. Contact Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org (leader) or Lisa Brady, pdxlisab@ gmail.com (assistant leader) for more details.

Lassen National Park Outing Aug. 16–23 Lassen National Park is located in northern California.

The park was originally two separate national monuments

(Lassen and Cinder Cone) in 1907 and were combined into a single national park in 1916.

From 1914 to 1917, Lassen threw clouds of steam and ash thousands of feet into the air, with the most notable eruption coming in May 1915.

There will be an assortment of A and B level day-hiking during the six days. Wildlife sightings, wildflowers, rugged terrain and mountain lakes await you. Attention will given to the history of the park, as well as the topographic features, and the flora and fauna we encounter.

The group site will be at Shingletown KOA (13 miles west of Lassen) and we will carpool to the trailheads. The cost of the trip is $150 for members and $210 for non-members. KOA offers tent sites, RV hookups, and three types of cabins. Campsite/lodging expenses are not included in the cost.

The group size will be limited to 24 persons, including the leaders, Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. Contact Richard 503-598-8788 for an application. There will be a pre-outing meeting in the spring for participants to meet and receive additional information.

Website info facebook.com/ mazamasinchamonix.

Hiking and Touring in Tuscany and Cinque Terre

First stop: Arches national park and the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands. Then south to the Needles district, with spectacular sandstone pillars.

Day 6, drive to Natural Bridges national park for an afternoon and camping overnight.

The next day travel to Capitol Reef national park for three days/two nights in campground, and one night in backcounty camp (car accessible). Then follow historic Burr Trail road to Boulder, where we overnight.

The following day, on to Bryce Canyon national park for an afternoon of hiking; overnight in campground.

Finally we end our journey with three days and nights in spectacular Zion National Park.

Participants should be able to carry a light pack on slickrock terrain with occasional exposed traversing and easy scrambling. A variety on hikes will be offered at A to B levels.

Costs: estimated $595 to $435 for group size of 6 to15 (including leaders). Camping and Mazama fees included.

Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs. Fees in excess of actual campsites’ cost will be refunded.

A $100 deposit due June 15, 2014. Contact, Bob Breivogel, leader, 503-297-4284, breivog@ teleport.com or Bob Smith, co-leader, 503-682-8711, rzs. vyg@frontier.com.

Aug. 31–Sept. 12

Grand Canyon Trek

Full/Alternates Only.

See information in the February Bulletin.

Oct.10–17, 2014

2014 Exploring Utah’s National Parks Sep. 28–Oct. 12 Join us on a fifteen-day camping and hiking outing to Utah’s desert parks. Visit Aches, Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef and Zion national parks.

Meet in Moab, Utah on the afternoon of Sep. 28. Either fly to Salt Lake City and rent a car or drive from Portland.

Join us as we go rim-to-rim in the Grand Canyon. Our 64-mile trek will begin on the North Rim as we descend beside lovely Bright Angel Creek. Then we will go off the beaten path and travel to Clear Creek where we will spend a day off trail to either Cheyava Falls or a descent to the Colorado River. Then we will retrace our steps and continue our journey along Bright Angel Creek, visiting the Phantom Ranch before crossing the Colorado River and ascending to Indian Gardens.

We will then wrap up our trip with a Westward traverse on the TontoTrail before ascending

the Hermit Trail to the South Rim at Hermit's Rest Trailhead.

Temperatures may still top 80 in the Canyon in October and will approach freezing at night near the rim.

The 5–6 participants should be in good physical condition and have completed at least one 50+ mile hike and be prepared to travel up to 15 miles a day.

Cost includes all fees and transportation to and from Las Vegas as well as a nights lodging in Las Vegas. The itinerary is tenative pending permits from the National Park Service which should be in hand by mid-to-late June. The cost of the outing will be approximately $670–$820 and excludes airfare.

Contact the leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) for more information.

Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, learn about and experience the flora and fauna of the many climatic zones of this part of the world as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. While on the summit, enjoy the 360-degree view of a little known continent and look down to the Olduvai Gorge where our tool-making ancestors evolved.

Our ascent to the summit is along the little climbed Lemosho and Western Breach route. Less than one percent of summit attempts are made along this route since it includes 4th class climbing. As we trek through the

low lands we will learn about different cultural and social norms of various indigenous ethnic groups. If we choose to spend a night in the crater, we will explore the remaining glaciers and the crater of Kilimanjaro.

We begin our African journey in Moshi, often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania, where we will begin to learn the culture and society of local inhabitants as well as our support people.

Local diets and new foods can be explored as well as clothing and dried goods when visiting the local market. Good local hotels will allow us to rest and sleep to overcome our long air journey to Moshi.

Following our many days of trekking and climbing we return to Moshi and either head home

or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. Such an optional trip might include Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti and or Ngorongoro Crater.

In-country cost for this unique trip range from $3,800–$4,300 per person depending upon number of participants while airfare from Portland is currently around $2,500. Airfare can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations.

Leaders: Paul Steger, 503998-6188, (PaulSteger@q.com) and Eric Hoem, 503-341-3996, (erichoem@comcast.net). Deposit $500 due by September 15, 2014.

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

April/2014—35

Obituaries Don Jeffery Nov. 25, 1933–Feb. 25, 2014

by Dick Miller I will begin with an 1875 quote from Henry Wells, a co-founder of the Wells-Fargo Company: “Our lives are not measured by the number of years and days we exist, but by what we accomplish while we live, and the good we may render to our fellow men. “ I left for Guatemala on Feb 5, the day Don had his final stroke. One day at a gift shop in Guatemala City I saw a wall hanging which read: “God gave us memory so that we might have roses in December.” I’ve spent a lot of time these past few days remembering good times with Don. I met Don when we both worked at Portland’s City Hall. There were several in the building who had discovered the joy of mountaineering. Eventually Don and I became good friends and now, some of my favorite memories include Don and his family. We led many climbs together for the Mazamas and for other groups. Don even organized a climb of Mt. Hood for the board members of Portland Public Schools. The weather cooperated and everyone made it to the summit and then safely back to Timberline.

Perhaps the quality which is often overlooked in leadership is that when risks are involved, the wise leader is constantly concerned with a safe return home.

Don was always ready to turn around when the risks became too high.

Years ago, a trip to climb South Sister and Broken Top one October weekend was thwarted by unexpected rain. After spending two nights and a full day in tents at Green Lakes we decided to hike out and drive home.

But the rain had brought on a huge crop of mushrooms, there for the taking. Don was beside himself. He emptied his pack and each of us carried a bit of his gear.

As we hiked down the trail there were frequent stops.

Don filled his pack and then several stuff bags with mushrooms. I don’t know how the Jeffery family ate so many mushrooms.

One of the reasons Don was admired by many people is that when he spoke, we knew that what he had to say would be valuable. His ability to pull people together to reach a common goal was vital to the many successes of his career, including a key role in bringing about O’Brien Park in downtown Portland, his presidency of the Mazamas, chairman of Goodwill Industries of Oregon and other community organizations. He was a man of reason, but served others with a passion.

In 1980 my dad, myself and three others incorporated a nonprofit organization dedicated to printing Spanish-language materials. Don handled all of the legal work for the incorporation and IRS approval without accepting one cent. In 1983 when our organization started a program to provide basic supplies for students of village schools in the Cuchumatan mountains of northern Guatemala, Don was one of the first to send a check. He and Nancy continued doing so 36 —Mazama Bulletin

for the past 32 years. And they provided scholarships for students to continue studying after completing primary school. Some of those students are now young professionals.

Fifteen years ago we had a Mazama outing in Guatemala which we called a Village-to-Village Backpack. Don was one of the twenty-two of us who made that trek. One morning we left the village of El Pericon, hiked a path to the canyon bottom, ate lunch, crossed the river on a footbridge and then climbed about 3,000 ft. to the village of Pasquil Pais perched on the east rim of the canyon. After visiting the one-room school built of hand-sawn planks with a split-cedar roof, we found flat spots to pitch our tents. After our shared one¬pot dinner, dusk was beginning and soon thereafter the village folk began to congregate. The schoolroom became the village town hall. They had come to give us an official welcome. The festivity included music of two hand-made marimbas, candlelight, speeches by the village elders and then folk dancing. The tallest of the villagers was not much more than five feet, all being a mix of Mayan and Latin ancestry.

Economically very poor, but rich in pride and tradition, they performed their ancient dances with grace and rhythm.

Our group stood along the walls applauding their moves and music.

And then from along the wall, the tallest member of our Mazama group, Don Jeffery, stepped forward and began to dance, doing his best to match the steps of the local folk. They responded with shouts of approval and joyful enthusiasm. Don added a few steps of his own creation and soon the villagers were imitating his moves.

Don was enjoying the moment to the fullest. He had a smile of satisfaction that he had truly “connected” with our hosts. His presence there was beyond anything we could hope to expect from an ambassador of our Department of State. I have never been more proud to be one of Don’s friends.

I am certain that now in the folklore of Pasquil Pais is the story of the visit of the people from “America” and the tall gentleman dancer who performed for their enjoyment.

Don Jeffery joined the Mazamas in 1972. He served as Mazama presiden in 1988 and was a recipient of the Parker Cup.

Just as the sun will set then rise with each and every dawn, the souls of those who lived life well eternally live on.

Now that the sun has seemed to set on one so very dear, please know a soul who lived so well remains forever near.

Carole Patrick July 19, 1939–2013

by Ray Sheldon Word was received that Carole passed away last year. Although we do not know the particulars of her passing, we do know about her life with the Mazamas. She joined the club in 1999 and, although she lived in southern Oregon, she participated in many of the Mazama climbs and outings. She not only knew how to get the most out of life, she added her energy to make sure those around her lived life to the fullest. We will miss her beautiful smile and happy attitude

Peter McClory Heitkemper Nov. 24, 1932–Feb. 28, 2014 Peter proudly served as a captain in the U.S. Marine Corps. He was a retired lumber broker and a devout Catholic, attending daily mass and serving as a minister to the sick. He was passionate about the outdoors, a member of the Mazamas (joined in 1970), and took great pleasure in planning the family’s annual cousins mountain climbing adventure. He is survived by his wife, Marcia; children, Tory Shoff, Mark Shoff, Heidi and Jim Wilcox, Peter Jr. and Mary Heitkemper, along with multiple granchildren.

William Alexander Schultz Aug. 16, 1908–Jan. 11, 2014 “Bill” was born to Lambert and Mollie Schultz of Prosser, Wash and was the youngest of six children. While working in downtown Portland he met the beautiful Rose Caroline Winkler whom he married in 1938. They embarked on an active life of mountaineering, skiing, fishing, camping, backpacking, cycling, canoeing, swimming, gardening and raising most of their own produce as well as meat and eggs. They raised two children and were married for 63 years. Bill joined the Mazamas in 1937 (Rose joined in 1933) and he credited their lifestyle with allowing them to live both a long and healthy life. He is survived by his children, five grandchildren, three great-grandchildren, two great-greatgranchildren, and nieces and nephews.

Charles Bernard Maclean Oct. 12, 1945–Nov. 22, 2013 Charles was an Eagle Scout, philanthropy professional, author of an upcoming book and most of all a congenital punster. Charles had a valiant and heroic life since he was diagnosed with cancer in early July. He lived the last few months as he lived all his life, bringing joy into the lives of anyone he met.

Arguably his greatest legacy as a co-founder of Trillium Hollow Cohousing community, was to imagine and make real a multi-generational family of families who, like Charles, practice compassion and gratitude.

He is survived by his brother Thomas Maclean of Madison Wisconsin, and many friends he considered his family.

Thanks for teaching us to live fearlessly and invading us with your presence. You are missed.

April/2014—37

Welcome New Mazamas!

Gordon Anderson—Mt. Adams Mark Burdon—Mt. Hood Rachel Burdon—South Sister Alicia Dupont—Mt. St. Helens Jason George—Mt. Adams Ian Gillingham—Mt. St. Helens Jeremy Lardeau—Iztaccihuatl

Jason Linse—Mt. St. Helens Day Piwonka—Mt. St. Helens Russell Reed—Mt. St. Helens Joe Sambataro—Mt. Waddington Ralph Shuping—Mt Hood Aaron Sieczkowski—Forbidden Peak Dallas Tate—Mt. St. Helens

NEW REINSTATED

Reinstatements Beth An (1999), Christopher Baker (1994), Joyce Bonds (1992), Edward Bondurant (2012), Jim Edelblute (2002), Kevin Carrigan (2009), Lynn Dingler (1976), Robert Fetter (2013), Jeff Gamer (2001), Greta Gibbs (2006), Darrin Gunkel (2013), Stephen Heitner (2012), Mary Hollen (1990), Thomas Holmes (1992), Scott Houser (1998), Amy Jelinek, Priscilla Jester (2003), Rae Klein (1986), Ken Klos (2012), Ken Lytwyn (2009), Frank Mifsud (2009), Eric Miller (2007), Charles O’Connor (1990), Jonathan Oakes (2005), John Pergiel (1993), John Purdy (1985), John Purrett (2006), Wayne Purrett (1998), Dennis Schantzen (1987), Chris Schwindt (2002), Emma Scott (2012), Etienne Scott (1998), Sandra Takabayashi (1997), Erik Tandberg (1998), Natalie ToddZebell (2009), Joanne Trask (2008), Brad Zeiger (2013)

DECEASED Feb. 28, 2013: 3,170 Feb. 28, 2014: 3,198

+ + -

14 38 2

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51

Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM) A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton.

MAZAMA Bulletin

503-227-2345 • mazama.ads@mazamas.org

Retail Advertising Rates

4 column page 2˝ wide: $10 per column inch (min. $10) 3 column page 2.5˝ wide: $15 per column inch (min. $15) 2 column page 3.75˝ wide: $20 per column inch (min. $20) 1 column page 7.75˝ wide: $30 per column inch (min. $60) Quarter page: $100 • Half page: $175 • Full page: $300 Classified rate: $4 per line (approx. 70 letters). 10 percent discount for 12-month agreement

38 —Mazama Bulletin

Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter-President; Sojo Hendrix-Vice-President; Terry DonaheTreasurer; Meg Goldberg-Secretary; Amy Mendenhall, Judith Baker Heather Campbell, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber. Lee Davis, Executive Director.

Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m.

The minutes of the Feb. 11, 2014 meeting were approved.

Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg. There were 14 applications for membership, 38 reinstatements, 0 resignations, and 2 deceased. Total membership as of February 28, 2014 was 3,198 showing a net increase of 28 members since Feb. 28, 2013.

Treasurer’s Report: Filed for audit.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral Report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available for membership in the Mazama Bulletin.

IT Systems: There is a project estimate for $19,991.60 from ProComp to overhaul the servers and workstations. Sojo Hendrix moved to approve the ProComp estimate.

Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Wilson Grants MOU: Lee Davis reported that Robert Wilson, a long time Mazamas Member approached Lee about providing financial support to the Mazamas for the purpose of funding expeditions. Beginning in 2014 an annual cash gift in the amount of $10,000 will be made directly to the Mazamas (the Wilson Grants). Upon the death of Mr. Wilson, a fund will be established which will replace the annual

March 11, 2014

cash gifts and ensure ongoing support of the Wilson Grants. Lee is requesting that council ratify the Donor’s Letter of Purpose and Intent. Kate Evans moved to ratify the letter.

Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Adventurous Young Mazamas • Climbing Committee • Families (written report delayed until April) • Old Timer’s Committee • Outings Committee • Risk Management Committee • Strategic Planning Committee • Trail Trips Committee Sojo moved to accept the consent agenda.

Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Regular Committee Reports Expedition Committee: Expedition Grant awardees. Per the discussion of the Robert Wilson Grant, Judith Baker moved that the Expedition Committee develop a plan to promote and execute the Robert Wilson Grants.

Motion seconded.

Motion passed.

Action: Approved.

Development Research. This project was put on hold at the end of last year at the direction of Council. Council thanked Terry for presenting his information.

Portland Alpine Fest Strategic Plan: Tim Scott, Chair of PAF/AC: Council directed Tim to take the strategic plan back to committee and come back with a delineated plan. Tim will come back to EC in June.

Sojo Hendrix, as EC liaison to the committee will report monthly to EC on planning.

Portland Alpine Fest 2014: Tim Scott is asking for council to approve an interim budget of $6,000 to allow the committee to start putting deposits on a space and catering. Terry Donahe moved to allocate $6,000 so that PAF can move forward with planning. Motion seconded. Motion passed.

Action: approved.

Conditions /weather related concerns: Terry Donahe. Moved to next month’s agenda.

Meeting adjourned at 9:06 p.m.

Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday April 8, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

New Business Boise/Branch programs initial findings debrief: Terry Campbell.

Terry presented to council a summary report on the Boise Branch Program

April/2014—39

Mazamas®

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon

527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

Mazama Ice Wall Fundraiser

by Sarah Bradham It isn’t easy to learn to climb ice in Portland. It doesn’t get cold enough for the gorge waterfalls to regularly freeze over and in the summer getting to the ice on the Elliot and White River Glaciers is no easy feat. While it’s not easy to find ice around Portland, the sport of ice climbing is exploding, and there are some great places within relatively close proximity where our members are regularly climbing—Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman, Mont. and the Ouray Ice Park, in Ouray, Colo. to name a few.

The Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI) Committee is seeing an increase in the number of applicants for the ASI class and the newly offered ice skillbuilder. Their dilemma is how to provide the maximum number of people with ice climbing training when our terrain, and often our weather conditions do not cooperate.

To solve the problem, the ASI Committee came up with the idea of adding an ice wall to the MMC auditorium. This wall would complement the existing rock walls, and would offer the Mazamas the opportunity to not only teach ice climbing skills in the MMC, but to also provide a training ground for those that have already been through our advanced classes to practice their techniques before heading outdoors.

Entre-prises, the company that built the rock walls, drew up a design plan for the ice wall and a price tag was set—$33,000— to make this concept a reality. On March 13 the ASI Committee took the first step towards bringing an ice wall to the MMC by hosting a fundraising event. Prior to the event, the eight members of the ASI Committee had

pledged $8,000 towards the project. With full committee buy-in they took their request to the membership, those members that had been through ICS, ASI, and/or AR over the past few years—the people that would best understand the benefits the wall would provide.

An excited and curious crowd of 40 stopped by the MMC that night to get a better understanding of the project. The Mountain Shop provided a set of ice climbing tools, ice screws, and other schwag as giveaways and Andrew Holman created a video (http://vimeo.com/88431675) that got the crowd stoked.

MAZAMAS

When Keith Thomajan of the ASI Committee took to the stage to begin the fundraising portion of the evening, the crowd listened intently and asked several thoughtful questions. Then the fundraising got underway with just about everyone in the crowd joining in. From donations of $25 to $1,500 the amount raised during the evening totaled $19,000.

With the pledges already made by the ASI Committee the current total stands at $27,000 raised by 45 donors. This project is only $6,000 away from becoming reality.

If you would like to contribute, you can go to mazamas.org/donate and select “ice wall” when you make your donation.