Mazama Bulletin - December 2013

mazama

bulletin The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale—we climb high

Dec. 2013 • Vol. 95 • No. 12

climb. hike. explore.

Mazama member Hannah Seebach makes her way back to camp after a successful summit of Mt. Garibaldi. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Upcoming Events and Classes Advanced Rock Dec. 2, Application available online

Nordic Skill School Application Due Dec. 2, Application available online

Conserving Oregon’s Environments Dec. 6, 7 p.m.—book presentation at the MMC

Ski Mountaineering Dec. 30, Application deadline

Expedition Training Course Jan. 6, Application deadline

Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) Information Night Jan. 23, 7 p.m. at the MMC

Monthly New Member and Volunteer Orientation Night Jan. 29, 7 p.m. at the MMC

2 —Mazama Bulletin

In this Issue

Features p. 6 Portland Alpine Fest Volunteer Thank You & Event Recap p. 7 Award Recipients p. 8 Portland Alpine Fest: In Pictures p. 10 Youth Programs: Mazamas & The Sierra Club, A Natural Partnership p. 14 Mauna Lau—A Big Island Adventure p. 14 Being Heard: Conservation Finds a Voice p. 16 Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program p. 18 Cross Training for Alpine Climbing p. 19 Gear Review: Petzl Nao Monthly Columns p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities p. 11 Programs p. 12 AYM Activities p. 12 Mazama Families p. 13 Lodge News & Notes p. 13 Mazama Benefits p. 24 Outings p. 27 Time Warp p. 28 Trail Trips p. 31 Membership Report p. 31 Executive Council Notes

Above: Climbers on the Emmons Glacier, Mt. Rainier. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

Below: Dusty boots overlooking the crater after a successful summit of Mount St. Helens. Photo: MaryJo Cheek.

Executive Director’s Report Happy Wanderers that song and wishing Dear Mazamas, Mazamas a heartfelt With cold winds at our doorstep and all good-night seemed to the cozy trappings of winter, many of us mark the start of the find ourselves curled up with a hot drink holiday season for me and plenty of introspection this time of year. this year.

Pondering the year gone by, planning for So, as it happens, the future, setting goals and training plans, I was sitting by the scheduling vacations and dreaming of far-off fire with a Kerouac book, thinking about landscapes is what we do in this month of Conrad being good, kind and happy (which December. he really truly is), and thinking about Jack As such, I found myself preparing this Grauer singing his song with so much joy. article near a warm fire, thinking about the The book opened up to this seemingly perfect generosity of the holiday season and the joys section, talking about a vision for a ‘rucksack of winter in the mountains. Our president revolution’ with thousands of people going Bronson Potter published an article this month which does an excellent job of covering into the mountains sharing unexpected gifts and happiness and visions of freedom all the recent board retreat topics, leaving me around. Talk about hitting the ‘Jack’ pot! dangerously free to brainstorm a topic for (various puns intended). this/my article. So, searching for inspiration I Seriously though, I was happy to find picked up an old Jack Kerouac book and saw his quote ‘Will you love me in December as you do in May.’ I see a vision of a great rucksack revolution thousands That quote just or even millions of young Americans wandering around seemed so earnestly with rucksacks, going up to mountains to pray, making appropriate that children laugh and old men glad, making young girls I started writing paragraphs happy and old girls happier, all of ‘em Zen Lunatics who encouraging you go about writing poems that happen to appear in their all to get off the heads for no reason and also by being kind and also by couch, toss away strange unexpected acts keep giving visions of eternal your slippers and shopping bags and freedom to everybody and to all living creatures ...” to go explore the —Jack Kerouac, The Dharma Bums (used here slightly out of context) mountains, crags and trails just as we do in May. (Truth a quote to share with you which adds be told in the Pacific Northwest, many days expression to our vision. At Mazamas, we in May feel and look just like December, so strive to create lifetimes of enjoying and why don’t we go out more in December?) protecting the mountains. Our honorary Appropriate as that quote was, it just didn’t members like Jack Grauer who joined seem truly motivational.

Mazamas and spent the rest of their lives Being the holidays, I decided to keep exploring and stewarding the mountains are searching for something more fitting which examples of success. tapped into the generosity and kind spirit of So, through this holiday season and the season. My mind wandered to thinking into the new year, I invite you all to join in about the recent, and wildly successful, with Mazamas and ‘Be like Jack’. Join in Portland Alpine Festival. During the festival our ‘rucksack revolution’ at Mazamas, stay I had regular opportunities to spend time engaged and keep climbing into your 80s or with Conrad Anker, who is now a Mazama 90s. Look up an old friend and go for a hike member! Conrad’s signature catchphrase, or a ski, or come along with us on a winter which you can find at the bottom of his climb and make some new friends. Go into website is ‘Be good. Be kind. Be happy.’ A the mountains, make your friends and family simple, powerful maxim we can all learn happier and share with all of them the eternal from. freedom of the hills. And while you’re at it, try Conrad was on stage with me at the to love December just as much as you do May. festival when Jack Grauer was given Best wishes and enjoy the holidays, the Honorary Member award for his extraordinary 65+ years of service and accomplishments. After receiving his award, Jack stood proudly on stage and sang ‘the Happy Wanderer’ as he has done for decades Lee Davis at our annual celebration. Hearing Jack sing

Contact Us Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m.

Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Max Rupert—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription price $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. (This month the meeting will be held on the first Monday, Oct. 7 at 8: 30 p.m.) Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 70 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

December 2013—3

Council Corner

by Bronson Potter October brings the end of summer, but for the Mazamas it is the beginning of a new year. Our fiscal year runs from October 1 to September 31, and each October we elect new council members in October. This October, our president, Doug Couch, and council members Bill McLoughlin and Dyanne Foster ended their terms.

Thanks to you for your service to our club. Kate Evans, Amy Mendenhall and Heather Campbell took their places as newly elected council members.

October also is the time for the council to take one of its semiannual planning retreats. This year we tried a different approach.

Council and staff got out of town to the Mt. Adams Lodge, beyond cell range and other distractions, and devoted an entire weekend tackling difficult problems and charting the path forward for the Mazamas. I have to say that it was an exhausting but productive weekend, and we came out of it with specific projects and goals for the year ahead. These include: Revising the way we account for some of our expenses and revenues in order to make it simpler and easier for committees to understand their budgets, improve transparency, and better understand the true costs and net revenues of our programs.

• Allocating our available cash assets to reserves for future needs and strategic development. In the past year, we have done a better job of budgeting for ongoing obligations, such as maintenance of the Lodge. In this same vein, we are now planning for potential future liabilities and identified reserve amounts for these, including operational reserves, recue insurance, capital maintenance and improvement in information technology.

• We have recognized that our antiquated IT system cannot fulfill our needs or provide the services members deserve.

Council has made it a priority to identify the hardware and software we need to upgrade current systems as well as create a more comprehensive database solution.

• Council, the Conservation Committee, and a new public affairs group will also be working together to better understand how our mission to promote mountaineering and conserve the mountain environment align. On occasion, there can be dissonance between recreation and conservation, and this group will be working on developing tools to both untangle these tough issues as well as strengthen the power of Mazama’s advocacy.

While we spent the weekend working on difficult problems, we also looked closely at the past year and the current health of the organization. I’m pleased to report that the Mazamas has never been in a better condition. Our membership is the highest it’s ever been at 3,440 members; our revenues are at an all-time high and operations are within plan; and we are putting on more and better programs at all levels.

There are also exciting things in our future. We are attracting nationally- and internationally-known athletes as speakers for programs and clinics. As partnerships grow, engaging new opportunities for growth are developing, and, with the addition of the Weinstein bequest of $360,000, our biggest challenge now is how to develop responsibly. I hope you are as excited about the future of Mazamas as I am. We believe we laid a good foundation—look forward to more great things to come.

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Expedition Training Course Have you ever dreamed of organizing your own climbing expedition to Denali or other remote Alaskan peaks? Or perhaps the Himalaya, the Andes or Patagonia. Maybe you’ve climbed throughout the Pacific Northwest and now want to expand your climbing horizon to a foreign country and a high peak. Or how about a multi-day winter climb to a remote part of the North Cascades? Interested in learning tips and techniques of expedition life? Then join us for the Mazamas Expedition Training Course this winter.

Deadline for applications are January 6, 2014.

Request For Proposal The Mazamas Research Committee is now accepting proposals for possible funding in the Spring of 2014.

The Mazamas are dedicated to the exploration and preservation of mountain environments in the Pacific Northwest. Mazamas activities include gathering and disseminating scientific information concerning the natural features of mountains, forests, rivers, and lakes. Investigations of geologic features, biotic communities, and human endeavors pertaining to the enjoyment and safety of outdoor recreation are all relevant research topics.

The Request for Proposal instructions can be found here: http://www.mazamas.org/your/ adventure/starts-here/research-grants.

Attention: Winter Climb Leaders The Mazamas has a limited supply of avalanche beacons available for use by the ICS, Ski Mountaineering and winter climbs. If you plan to lead a winter climb, please check beacons out only as needed for specific dates and not for the entire season. Thank you.

MAZAMA Bulletin

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Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Dec. 5—Youth Climb Camp Instructor Orientation: We need volunteers to help out with each session of the Youth Climb Camp (Dec. 10, 13, 16, 20, 21). Volunteers will be asked to help instruct the students on proper technique, and should have taken Mazamas ICS and/or AR courses. If you are interested in volunteering, please contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, to sign up as a volunteer.

Also, please mark your calendar for a volunteer orientation on Thursday, Dec. 5 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. Starting Dec. 7—Nordic Class Assistants Needed: Nordic Ski Class Assistants are typically former students who wish to work with a lead instructor to help teach others how to cross-country ski. A wonderful opportunity to build your leadership skills along with your skiing skills! Receive a free professional “instructors only” ski seminar and skill builder from Wy’East Nordic on Dec. 7 and 8.

Assist for four classes in Jan. 2014, either on Saturdays or Sundays. Contact Caro Laone, carol.lane@portlandoregon.gov.

Dec. 17 & 19—MFA Recert Skill Checkers: The next MFA recert will be held at the MMC on Tuesday, Dec. 17 and Thursday, Dec. 19 from 6:30–10:30 p.m. If you are looking to keep your own MFA skills fresh, consider joining us for one or both nights as an assistant/skill checker. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, if you are interested and available.

Ongoing: One big goal at the Mazamas is to become carbon neutral, and what better place to start than the MMC? Support our efforts to reduce waste by helping us source and purchase recyclable/compostable supplies, sort recycling, etc. There is no minimum commitment, just let us know what you’re interested in and able to do. Contact Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com for more information or to volunteer your time.

Ongoing: Governing Documents Committee is Looking for New Members—We are looking for a few new members on Governing Documents Committee. We now do so much more than just update our Bylaws; there are many Policies and Procedures that must be kept up-to-date to assure we remain a modern, efficiently run nonprofit organization. We typically work with staff, Executive Council, and other committees to make this happen, and in doing so we take in a broad view of the entire organization—that’s one of the great benefits of serving on this committee. If you have an eye for detail, like to write, and enjoy working with many others in different areas of the Mazamas, we may have a fit for you. A legal, human resources, or technical background in specification writing is helpful but not essential. Please contact John Rettig, johnbrettig@yahoo.com, if you are interested.

Snow Day at Mazama Lodge for Homeless & Recently Housed Kids!

Kick off the new year by giving back in a fun way! On Jan. 1, JOIN: Connecting the Streets to a Home, a local non-profit social service agency, offers outreach to the community in urban and natural areas, building relationships with and working on housing with Portland’s homeless population. Once families and individuals are housed, JOIN continues to provide support, and engage people in fun, community-building activities. On Jan. 1 JOIN is taking a group of kids to Mazama Lodge for a day of sledding—for many this is likely to be their first time sledding!

How can you help? Donations of new or used kids’ snow clothes—boots, gloves, pants, etc.. are needed. You are also able to help offset our cost by “sponsoring” a family having lunch at the lodge. If you (families welcome) would like to come along to help out on this fun afternoon, you are welcome to. If you are interested in getting involved, email Mazama member Colleen Sinsky at ColleenSinsky@gmail.com. Items can be dropped off at the MMC. Learn more about JOIN at www.JOINpdx.com.

December 2013—5

Portland Alpine Fest Recap

by Sarah Bradham, Marketing & Publications Manager

The Portland Alpine Festival provided the Mazamas and the community with a one week celebration of mountains and mountain culture. What does that mean exactly?

Over a six day period there were multiple events to showcase the mountains, climbers, climbing culture, as well as to teach climbing techniques. There were movies, clinics, slideshows, and more ... something for every mountain enthusiast in our midst.

The week kicked off with the Veterans Day event on Monday night with a showing of the movie High Ground, a 2012 documentary film. Attendee Derek Schroeder had this to say about the movie: “What’s moving about the film though is not just the journey to climb an imposing and beautiful peak in the Himalayas, it’s about the transformation the soldiers go through together and their bravery involved in healing each other’s scars. Like the military lifestyle, mountaineering creates a bond of trust stronger than most. They both have a unique capability to test a soldier’s true worth. While war tends to break men, mountains heal.

Veterans to tell their stories in their own words, and face their emotional and mental scars of war.”

Tuesday night had a bit of a lighter atmosphere with the new Mazama Families group coming together­for a fun evening at the MMC. There was climbing, games, food, to be had and enjoyed by the group.

Wednesday night offered up a stunning presentation of first ascents in Alaska by Mazama member John Frieh and Daniel Harro. Talk about celebrating mountains­— one couldn’t help but get excited about climbing after watching their slideshow and hearing about their experiences.

Once we headed in to Thursday it was non-stop excitement. On Thursday morning there were climbing clinics running at the MMC while concurrently an outfitter guide workshop was held at the Left Bank Annex.

Margo Talbot and Will Gadd were teaching folks how to swing tools while Adam Baylor and Lee Davis, along with the US Forest Service, were heading up the workshop to help those in the outdoor industry streamline the permitting process.

The Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner on Thursday night proved to be a successful fundraising dinner with more than $6,000 raised for the Center that provides world class climbing instruction for Nepali climbers and high altitude porters. The evening

provided an exquisite meal to attendees, along with a program that included Conrad Anker, Jenny Anker-Lowe, Isabel Suppé, and Will Gadd.

Friday morning got underway with more clinics while preparation began in earnest for Friday evening. Friday night was the penultimate event of the festival.

Held at the Left Bank Annex, Mazamas and community members alike were treated to a high quality program by Margo Talbot and Conrad Anker, a silent auction filled with an incredible amount of gear, books, magazines, and gift certificates from local business, along with a vendor fair, and the presentation of the Mazama service awards. It was a full house and a good time was had by all.

The Portland Alpine Fest came to a close on Saturday when the Portland Rock Gym hosted the 5th annual Portland Ice Fest.

Many Mazama members were in attendance, and four of our members took podium positions in the competition! (see back page for a full list of winners) A huge thank you to everyone who participated in the week. There were so many people working behind the scenes to make this week of events a reality. We can’t wait to see you all again next year. Mark your calendars nows—Portland Alpine Fest 2014 will be Nov. 5–11 with the Annual Celebration on Saturday, Nov. 8.

What made the Portland Alpine Fest Possible? Volunteers.

by Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager

What happens when you take a one-day event and turn it into six days and ten events? You get the Portland Alpine Fest! And you need a whole lot of help from volunteers.

The first ever Portland Alpine Fest, held the 11–16 of November, was a great success thanks to the tireless volunteers who worked to make it happen.

First, the evil geniuses of the Mazama Annual Celebration Committee, who first had the vision of creating a weeklong festival in celebration of 6 —Mazama Bulletin

northwest alpine culture. Led

by Chair Anne Keegan-Schenk, these volunteers are: • Andrew Holman • Ania Wiktorowicz • Derek Castonguay • Steve Heikkila • Jason Lee • Karin Mullendorff • Tim Scott • Matt Sundling • Jeff Thomas Then there were the volunteers who hosted and supported our athletes and guests: • Heather Campbell • Katie Mills • Laura Greenwalt • Rebecca Schob • Todd Torres

Finally, there were the folks who showed up to pitch in during the events themselves: • Amy Goodwin • Betty Sheldon • Derek Schroeder • Doug Wilson • Dyanne Foster • Gabe Chasnoff • Gary Riggs • Gisela Davisson • Jacek Wiktorowicz • Jami Wireman • Jim Van Lente • Karen Natzel • Katelyn Black • Kenny Allen • Leslie Sunseri-Mertz • Lisa Ripps • Mary Vogel • Mike Booher • Mike Magyar • Paul Steger

• Peter Joy • Phil King • Ray Sheldon • Rick Craycraft • Ruby Brunk • Scott Exo • Scott Peterson • Sharon Birchfield Both committee members and day-of volunteers worked tirelessly to do everything from setting up tables and chairs to running a/v equipment to announcing award winners on stage to capturing the events in photo and video.

A resounding thank you to all of these volunteers for making the event run smoothly (even during the moments when it felt rocky). We look forward to seeing all of you next year!

Mazama Awards Parker Cup—Darrell Weston The Parker Cup is given annually to recognize the member who has rendered services of the greatest benefit to the club during the past year. Named after Alfred E. Parker, who was president of the club in 1925.

Montague Cup—Bob Lothian The Richard Ward Montague Mazama Conservation Award recognizes outstanding conservationists in our organization who have demonstrated a long-term commitment to the cause of environmental protection and preservation.

Hardesty Cup—Rex Breunsbach The Hardesty Cup is awarded to the person who has accumulated the most leader points on trail trips over their hike leading career. Named after William J. Hardesty, who started the hiking program in 1912 and was Mazama President in 1917. Hardesty left his estate to the club, which is the basis for the Mazama Foundation.

Honorary Member—Jack Grauer This award is the highest form of recognition the Mazamas can bestown on an individual. We present it to those who have distinguished themselves in mountaineering, conservation, exploration or service to the organization.

Innovation in Education— Steve Heikkila The Innovation in Education Award is presented by the Annual Celebration Committee to the Mazama who led the greatest advancements in our educational programs over the past year.

Leuthold Award—Steve Warner The recipient of this award must have successfully led official Mazama climbs of all sixteen of the major NW peaks and contributed many hours of leadership to other Mazama activities. It is seldom awarded and cannot be applied for. It was established in 1964.

Terry Becker Award—Tim Scott The Terry Becker Award recognizes those who have led the 16 major NW peaks. It is in honor of Terry Becker, who died descending the Wills Gratli Ridge on the Wetterhorn in the Swiss Alps. He was an accomplished climber and past Mazama President.

Climbing Awards 16 Peaks

Guardian Peaks

Kevin Clark Pamela Gilmer Marty Guenther Linda Mark

Sharon Birchfield Julie A. Bronder Ardel Frick Kathleen Hahn Sojo Hendrix

Oregon Cascades Julie A. Bronder Ryan Christie Larry E. Miller

Marty Hinkle Mark Korsness Mike Levis Rico Micallef Barry O’Mahony

Trail Trips Awards Leadership 700 Leads–Marty Hanson 600 Leads–Tom Guyot 500 Leads–David Braem 300 Leads–Terry Sherbeck 200 Leads–Wayne L. Lincoln, Kent Meyer 150 Leads–Rex Breunsbach, Daniel Van Rossen 100 Leads–Amy Brown, Meg Linza 50 Leads–Sherry Bourdin, Bob Breivogel, Terry Lawson, Laura Niemeyer, Rick Pope, Sheri Alice Smith

25 Leads– Whit Fellers, Kurt Hiland, Laura Niemeyer,

Kirby Young

Mileage 2000 miles–Rex Breunsbach, Marilyn Zigler 1000 miles–Marilyn Zigler 500 miles–Larry Solomon 250 miles–Carole Beauclerk, Cleopatra Bucur, Gisela

Davisson, Karl Kratzer, Gary Riggs, Tony Spiering, Marilyn Zigler

Nordic Leadership Award Karl Steady

Next page: From left to right, starting at the top left: Inside the Left Bank Annex at the Mazama Annual Celebration. (Photo: Katelyn Black) Margo Talbot teaching the intracacies of ice climbing at a Mazama clinic. (Photo: Andrew Holman). Jack Grauer, the newest Mazama Honorary Member, singing at the Mazama Annual Celebration. (Photo: Katelyn Black) Karin Mullendorf tackles the wall at the PRG ice comp. (Photo: Andrew Holman) Jeff Thomas and Keith Campbell at the Mazama Annual Celebration (Photo: Derek Schroeder). An intense Derek Castonguay at the ice comp. (Photo: Andrew Holman). Jenny AnkerLowe, Laura Greenwalt, Rebecca Schob, Lee Davis, Katie Mills and Ania Wiktorowicz at the Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner (Photo: Unknown). A full room at the Mazama Annual Celebration. (Photo: Andrew Holman) Mazama shirts and programs. (Photo: Katelyn Black) Conrad Anker speaking at the Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner. (Photo: Andrew Holman) Amory taking the women’s ice comp title at PRG. (Photo: Andrew Holman) Jamie Anderson and Howie Davis finishing up some last minute details at the Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner (Photo: Jeremy Lubkin). The Left Bank Annex (Photo: Katelyn Black). Conrad Anker at the ice climbing comp. Our namesakes! Will Gadd and Conrad Anker donning their Mazama gear at the Annual Celebration. (Photo: Jeremy Lubkin)

December 2013—7

Portland Alpine Festival

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Youth Programs: Mazamas and Sierra Club, Natural Partnership

by Adam Baylor The Mazamas and the Sierra Club’s Inner City Outings (Columbia Group) program recently decided to join forces in order to create a series of outdoor adventures for young people in 2014.

We are seeking volunteers to help lead and organize activities as well as contribute creatively to the new partnership. Columbia Group ICO has been a long-standing partner with youth programs in the Portland area and recently expressed interest in working with Mazamas. The partnership comes at

an opportune moment given our recent development of youth programs. In 2013, Mazamas began a new youth program with our “Learn to Belay” camp.

ICO currently works with Janus Youth Programs, one of the largest nonprofits in the Northwest helping at-risk kids and teens, in creating a community outreach program that provides opportunities for urban youth and adults to explore, enjoy, and protect the natural world. The addition of the Mazamas strong leadership base and knowledge of climbing and hiking in the Pacific Northwest will hopefully increase outdoor access for

Winter Climb Schedule: Dec. 1, 2013–April 30, 2014 The summer climb season may have ended on Oct. 31, but do not despair: the winter climb season is almost here! The Mazamas’ winter climb schedule runs from Dec. 1 through April 30. The calendar is now available on-line on the website and will also be printed in subsequent bulletins as climbs are added. Leaders will be adding climbs shortly so keep checking back for new additions. Here is the link: http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C88/ Review the winter climb schedule for details about signing up for and participating in winter climbs as they differ from summer climbs due to the uncertain nature of winter conditions. Climbs are not scheduled for a particular day; the day of the climb will be determined by the leader depending on weather and conditions. Winter climbs are bumped up a climb grade and avalanche beacons are required for all winter climbs.

Thank you leaders for scheduling winter climbs and to climbers for participating. Climb safely this winter!

Mazama Nordic Ski School 2013-2014 Don’t forget! Mazama Nordic Ski School application are due Dec. 2 and classes begin the first weekend in January.

Options include Beginner, Novice, Intermediate and Advanced Classic Cross-Country Skiing, Nordic Backcountry, and Telemark/ Nordic Downhill.

Find all the details at tinyurl.com/mazamanordic.

10 —Mazama Bulletin

children in the future.

If you are interested in joining this new initiative as we develop a series of outings for 2014 please contact, Ann Griffin, lagriff_27@yahoo.com or Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org.

We will hold an informational meeting on Jan. 9, 2014, 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Evening Programs ACTIVE ADVENTURES IN NEW ZEALAND Wednesday, Dec. 4 No country packs more untouched, dramatic and diverse scenery into a small space than New Zealand. About half the size of California, the two islands are filled with fiords, glaciers, rain forest, volcanoes, beech forests and rugged coastlines.

An extensive network of hiking and biking trails and almost 1,000 backcountry huts offer overwhelming options for exploration. Susan Saul and friends decided to go with an adventure travel company to get the most out of their nearly month long trip. They hiked, backpacked, snorkeled, kayaked, floated an underground river and mountain biked as they explored the most beautiful, famous and little known places of New Zealand.

Out of the Mist ~ Olympic Wilderness Stories (A Film) Wednesday, Dec. 11 Northwest filmmakers Robert and Kathy Chrestensen will be on hand to introduce the screening of their latest feature film Out of the Mist ~ Olympic Wilderness Stories. It was filmed over several years while hiking and backpacking in some of the Olympics most remote areas and has drawn standing room only crowds. Out of the Mist chronicles the life experiences of Dave Skinner (spent most of his life on the Olympic Peninsula backpacking, climbing peaks, working on trails and doing glacier research for the University of Washington); Harvest Moon (has become an ambassador and historian for the Quinault Indian Nation and the Coast Salish through her popular story-telling and basket-weaving artistry); Dane Burke (backpacked hundreds of miles on multi-day trips exploring some of the most remote off-trail areas in the Olympic Mountains), and Tim McNulty (lived on the Olympic Peninsula for over 40 years, authored several books and essays on natural history, writes and teaches poetry, and speaks out on behalf of wilderness) as they explore, discover and grow to love and respect the great Olympic wilderness. Their stories are inspiring. The scenery is breathtaking. Reviewer Seabury Blair of the Kitsap Sun called the 48-minute film “nothing short of spectacular, especially for anyone who loves the Olympic Mountains and seashore.”

Programs are held at the MMC (527 SE 43rd Avenue) and begin at 7 p.m. Shows are free and open to Mazama members and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

Program Committee: Nancy Bentley, Dave Grodle, John Leary, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Rick Russell and Paul Winther.

Utah Slot Canyons Wednesday, Dec. 18 Bob Brievogel presents photos from the Mazama outing last spring that explored southern Utah’s Escalante Grand Staircase, Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park. You won’t find a more scenic, rugged and remote place to hike than the Escalante region. The Paria River and its tributaries have carved out buttes, mesas and canyons including one of the world’s longest slot canyons, Buckskin Gulch. The Canyons of the Escalante offer some very popular hikes including Peek-A-Boo and Spooky Gulch slot canyons and Coyote Gulch.

Zion National Park offers a wide range of hiking opportunities, with something suitable for every age and experience level, during every month of the year. The options are endless.

NO PROGRAM HOLIDAY Wednesday, Dec. 25

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

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Watch the trailer here: http://www.crestpictures.com/mist

December 2013—11

Mazama Families

by Bob Murphy

We had a great turnout for the Family Alpine Celebration! More than 30 parents and 40 kids attended. The kids climbed hard, played on the train table and a drawing board, and enjoyed being together.

There was a high level of energy in the Holman Auditorium. Several of the belayers and organizers felt as though they had been run over by a herd—a herd of billy goat kids! It was great to see many familiar as well as many new faces.

It was especially wonderful to see some members who drifted away from the organization after having kids come back the MMC so their kids could climb.

We hope to see all of you at our upcoming activities!

Do you have any Kid’s Gear to donate?

If anyone happens to have kid’s climbing gear they are no longer using, could you please consider donating it the Mazamas?

In particular, we could use kid’s harnesses, climbing shoes, and helmets. This winter we could use snowrelated gear, e.g., sleds to pull kids on XC Skiing or snowshoes, etc. All donated gear with be lent to kids and parents to use during one of our activities.

Upcoming Activities

Mon, Dec 9, 5–8 p.m., MMC Rock Wall Family Social We’ll gather every month through the winter for some climbing, skills learning, and some fun and games in the MMC Holman Auditorium. Kids and

12 —Mazama Bulletin

parents are both welcome to climb and we will set up some games for kids of all ages. We will also have a toddler table for those too young to climb to give their parents and older siblings a chance to climb. Child harnesses will be provided for those who do not have their own. Feel bring to bring along some dinner and or snacks! Free of charge. Additional dates: Jan. 21, Feb. 10, March 10, May 5. Go to the Mazama Families webpage to register for climb nights. tinyurl/ mazamafamilies

Friday Night Lights at the Mazama Lodge Nearly every week from Dec. 27–March 21, the back ski/sledding hill will be groomed and available for use. The lights and music will be on until the last sledder leaves the hill.

Check out our Mazama Families Google Calendar on our web page for up to date information: Tinyurl. com/mazamafamilies. No registration needed, but if you would like to enjoy a lodge meal and/or book a room to stay the night, visit here: http://www.mazamas. org/your/adventure/startshere/C184/ Feb. 10, 6:30–8 p.m., Group Meeting & Family Climb Night Anyone interested in helping this group move forward are welcome to attend our committee meeting. Adults will gather in the basement meeting room from 6:30–8 p.m. and the kids will climb and play games with supervision in the Holman Auditorium. Auditorium will be open for Family

AYM Activities Climbing from 5–8 p.m.

Register here: http://tinyurl. com/FCN-02-10-14 Mazama Winter Family Festival: March 1 This year’s festival host family—the Rotherham family, would like to invite everyone to the 91st Mazama Winter Family Festival, Saturday, March 1. The festival will feature a snow sculpture contest, sledding on Mazama hill, a nordic and snowshoe race known as the Birkebeiner, and more. Registration begins at noon. This is a free event open to members, friends, family, guests and affiliate clubs.

Make sure you stick around for a traditional pasta dinner with a flaming baked Alaska for dessert.

Show up at noon for grilled bratwursts and grilled veggie sandwiches. The event is free, but the lodge does charge for meals.

New to Mazama Lodge? Want to spend the night? Check out the lodge website! http:// www.mazamas.org/your/ adventure/starts-here/C184/

The Adventurous Young Mazamas leads activities year round targeting those in their 20s, 30s, early 40s, and of course anyone who is “Young at Heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

The Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) have something for everyone this December! Climb Nights are happening Monday, Dec. 2 at ClubSport from 6:30-11 p.m. and Thursday, Dec. 19 at Portland Rock Gym from 6:30-10 p.m. If you are looking for an outdoor adventure, you can choose between sunshine and snow! We have a 7.5-mile desert hike on the Deschutes River Trail on Saturday, Dec. 7, and a 6-mile snowshoe trip at June Lake on Sunday, Dec. 29.

As always, we have our monthly pub night as well. On Monday, Dec. 16, you can find us at the Horse Brass Pub in SE Portland enjoying festive beverages. Details about all of our trips can be found on our website.

We continue to advertise our trips on Meetup.com and are requesting that anyone interested in an adventure contact the leader directly to reserve a spot.

Last but not least, make sure to mark your calendars now for our AYM Winter Weekend Jan. 25–27, 2014 at the warm and comfortable Mazama Lodge. There will be a lot of fun folks, great food, socializing, board games, late night films, sledding and camaraderie around a roaring fire—and possibly even some igloo building!

AYM Winter Weekend fun in the snow!

News and Notes Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Amanda Richards, 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Locker Rentals Just a reminder locker rental are now past due. If you have not already done so please send in your check of $25 for your annual rental.

December 14 If you like handmade Scandinavian sweaters, live folk music, and pickled hearing ... this weekend is for you! This is the 25th Anniversary of the Snowball Group decorating Mazama Lodge for the holidays and playing live music until 1 a.m. Plan on arriving by 6 p.m. for dinner!

Winter Break Mazama Lodge is open from Thursday, Dec. 19–Monday, Jan. 6. We will be closing the lodge at noon on Dec. 24 and reopening on Christmas Day at noon. Our new caretakers Amanda and Joe will be serving a traditional ham dinner on Christmas at 6 p.m.

New Caretaker Amanda Richards is a third generation “yodeler.” Her Grandfather was a professional yodeler with Roy Rodgers. Her husband Joe Fox is an online English Teacher with Central Coast Community College during the day and Mazama Lodge Catertaker on weekends.

Joe grew up in New Jersey and fell in love with Amada’s yodeling. The rest they say is history.

Coffee Mugs This is a great time to clear out your kitchen cabinets and look for some underused coffee mugs.

Mazama Lodge would love to take your coffee mugs and put them to good use.

Private Rooms have Heat!

After 53 years of sometimes sub-zero temperatures in the the Ape Cave and Trillium we now have heat. Some of our guests were even bringing their own heaters but we now have individual heaters in these two private rooms.

out we can put you on the waiting list and hope something opens up. On New Year’s Day we will serving brunch from 9 a.m.–noon. This is a great way to start the new year. Our New Year’s Day brunch will feature eggs Benedict with spinach and our buttermilk pancakes.

Mazama Lodge Events Dec. 14 Snowball Dance—Swedish dinner served until 6:30 p.m.

Dec. 25–Jan. 6: Winter break, open every night Dec. 27–Mar 21: Friday night Nordic skiing on the groomed hill at the lodge Remember to get your snopark permits and come up and enjoy winter at Mazama Lodge.

New Years Eve Dinner • Cheeses from around the world.

• Caesar salad • Homemade breads • Sautéed vegetables • Polenta (veggie option) • Garlic mashed potatoes • Prime rib with yogurt horseradish sauce • Flaming bananas Foster at 9 p.m.

• Midnight snack—Tea sandwiches and milk

Membership Benefits New! The North Face Portland—From Dec. 6–8 is offering a 15% discount to Mazama members. (1202 NW Davis Street) Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Eddie Bauer (online and all locations) 40% off First Ascent Line with their Pro Discount card (see our website) Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books (www. mountaineersbooks.org use code MZORE) 20% Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% nonsale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly-priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularlypriced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, OR) 10% U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

New Year’s Eve This years New Year’s Eve host is again Wendy Love. While we are sold December 2013—13

Mauna Loa— Big Island Adventure

by Gary Bishop It was a beautiful morning at the National Park Services Red Hill cabin as I prepared myself for the long but gradual ascent of 13,677-foot Mauna Loa on the Big Island of Hawaii.

The previous afternoon I had a relatively leisurely 7.5-mile hike up to the cabin. Starting at the 6,662-foot Mauna Loa Lookout trailhead the vegetation became scarcer and scarcer until reaching the cabin at 10,035-feet there were only a few blades of grass to be found.

As I made my way along the sometimes faint trail above the cabin it was reassuring to see the rather large cairns marking the way. The landscape was harsh and unearthly with a mixture of rough sharp a’a and ropey pahoehoe lava. All the landscape I was traveling on was less than one hundred years old and other than an occasional cone, vent or tube there was little to break up the monotony of reddish to black lava.

Ever higher the views of the island opened up and the sheer immensity of this mountain became apparent. Considered the largest volcano on earth, it has an estimated volume of 18,000 cubic miles and rises over 30,000 feet from it’s base on the ocean floor.

After approximately 9.5 miles I saw my first patches of snow, and soon reached the rim of the massive 3.9 mile by 1.6 mile caldera. At this point, I headed another 2 miles west on a side trail along the caldera rim to the Mauna Loa “Summit” Cabin, (13,250-feet) for a nights’ rest before tackling the summit the next day. With twelve beds, cistern and solar outhouse, it was a welcome refuge.

After a cold but uneventful night I made my way back east to the trail junction and stashed my pack before making the final 2.6-mile push to the summit. There were more patches of snow along the way. The tropical sun, low humidity and wind evaporates the snow leaving odd ridge-like structures about an inch high that I had never seen before or since. Heading north and then west along the caldera edge the slope of the trail soon tapered off and I knew that I must be getting close to the summit. There were several large cairns in the area but I spotted one larger than the rest and made my way there. The views were spectacular with the caldera spread out below me and Mona Kea and the other Hawaiian islands in the distance.

As I approached the large cairn I noticed flowers, sea shells and a slice of pizza(!?). A reminder of the sacredness of this place to the native peoples of Hawaii where offerings to Pele are still made. Although that was not the purpose of my visit I could definitely appreciate the sense of awe the first visitors must have had coming to this special place.

If you would like to experience the summits of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea as well as Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and other wonders of Hawaii, check out the Outings section in this months Bulletin for the Big Island Adventure Hawaii Outing or contact the outing leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) or assistant leader, Kellie O’Donnell (kzodonnell@gmail.com).

14 —Mazama Bulletin

Top: Red Hill Cabin, 10,035-foot Mauna Loa Hawaii. Bottom: Mauna Loa Caldera from summit, 13,677-feet.

Video of the Month Steve Heikkila, Mazama Climb Leader, 20122013 ICS coordinator, and occasional comedian, talks about his popular website, jive-assanchors.com. See why this website has gained quite a following here: http://vimeo. com/79816778

Do You Care about Oregon’s Wild and Scenic Places?

If you recycle or have attended a tree planting, donated some money to a conservation cause, or participated in a beach clean-up then you’ve contributed to the amazing history of conservation in Oregon.

Learn more about our state’s phenomenal conservationist history and the special role that Mazamas have played over the years.

Attend a presentation by former Sierra Club Director, Michael McCloskey: Friday, Dec. 6, 7 p.m.

Holman Auditorium Mazama Mountaineering Center McCloskey will read from his inspiring new book: Conserving Oregon’s Environment: Breakthroughs That Made History The book traces the pioneers and movement that have kept Oregon green beginning in the 1880s and continuing to 2013.

It answers the questions: Where did this program or reserve come from? Who led the way, and who opposed it? What difference has it made? It deals with the breadth of modern environmentalism: protecting nature, habitat, purifying ambient media, eliminating unsafe operations, and promoting energy efficiency.

“An invaluable resource for all those who want to understand the background story of those who cared enough to fight for Oregon’s great natural legacy.” —Ronald Eber, Historian, Oregon Chapter, Sierra Club

Nordic Ski Trip to B.C. Resorts Feb. 15–22, 2014 Go with the Seattle Mountaineers on this holiday week trip to Silver Star and Sun Peaks! $750–$850 includes trail passes and 7 nights’ accommodation (3 in large home on Silver Star trail, 3 in great ski-in/ski-out condos in Sun Peaks & one in Kamloop hotel). For more info contact Cindy at cyn@zipcon.com or see http:// www.mountaineers.org/source/aTrips/global_outings.cfm

December 2013—15

Mazama Basic Climbing Education Program Info Night Jan. 23

by Andrew Bodien, 2014 Coordinator

Are you looking to take your hiking or backpacking skills off trail so that you can scale the heights of the mountain peaks? Perhaps you are in good physical shape and would like to learn the fundamentals of alpine climbing? Are you looking to connect with other like minded people?

If any of these fit what you are looking for the Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) may be just for you. The Mazamas have been offering BCEP since the 1950s. The class is very popular and often sells out. In fact, the class is so beloved that many graduates return to give back and improve their own skills. We accept those who are ages 15 and older.

In BCEP we provide instruction on the fundamentals of alpine climbing. This includes rock climbing, snow climbing, safe use 16 —Mazama Bulletin

of equipment, navigation and how to prepare yourself for the demands of mountaineering. Our goal is to give you the skills to be a successful, engaged member of a climbing team. You will be placed in a group of students led by a Mazama Climb Leader. That leader will recruit assistant instructors and all of you will make a team for the duration of the class. All of these people are volunteers that are passionate about climbing.

The course begins on March 18 and continues through April 29.

It consists of six Tuesday night lectures, practice on the instructional climbing wall at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, a rock climbing session, a snow climbing session, several conditioning hikes and other skill building sessions. Attendance is required at all activities to graduate. There will be assisgned reading, knots to learn and at the end you will be tested on what you learned. It is a big time commitment, but worth it for the skills that you learn and the connections that you’ll make. BCEP graduates are qualified to apply for Mazamas ‘A’ and ‘B’ level climbs. continued on next page

BCEP, continued from previous page After graduating from BCEP many find doors open open for them in the Mazamas. But don’t take my word of it, here are some statements from a couple of recent BCEP graduates.

“I have been participating in the Mazama Tues/Thurs Rambles for many years. About a year ago our leader suggested that I take BCEP. To which I answered, “What’s that?” He explained that he had taken it and thought I would like it. So I went to the website, liked what I saw, and signed up. What I really wanted to learn about was safety in the outdoors and to feel more confident hiking. I thought that climbing mountains was kind of scary and just not for me.

When I started meeting others in my BCEP class I knew that they were “my kind” of people and I really enjoyed the experiences we shared.

Anyhow, it seems like I spent this entire summer outdoors. Ten mountain summits later, it turns out that I love climbing mountains! And I feel safe.” –Maggie Woodward, BCEP Grad “I signed up for BCEP hoping to gain some basic mountaineering skills, meet people to hike and climb with, and learn a bit about the Mazamas as a recent Portland transplant. The experience with Matt Carter’s group (Team 6, woot woot!) has exceeded my expectations on all accounts. Since graduating in April, I have successfully and confidentially climbed ten alpine peaks, and made huge strides in my rock climbing ability (a skill that I wasn’t particularly interested in honing before the course). I also learned what an amazing organization the Mazamas are, accomplishing so much with almost exclusively volunteers, and I am proud to have become further involved in this community.

Most importantly, I made incredible friendships and I have continued to climb and explore with my team, who have remained surprisingly close, and we have a long list of adventures planned for the future. I knew BCEP would provide a strong foundation and training for climbing in the mountains. The camaraderie is something I was not expecting, but am incredibly grateful to have found.” –Alicia Imbody, BCEP Grad If you are interested in getting more information, we will be having an BCEP Information Night on Thursday January 23, 2014. It will start at 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. There will be a presentation about BCEP and volunteers will be there to answer your questions. You also get more information on our webpage at http://www. mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C55/.

Climb on!

Photos: (left) Learning ice axe skills at BCEP skills session near Timberline. Photo: Andrew Bodien. (top) BCEP student at Big Cougar Rock. Photo: Andrew Bodien. (middle) Kat Buckspan learning rope traveling skills at BCEP Field Session. Photo by Brian Capps. (bottom) BCEP Student Chris McCann rappelling at Horsethief Butte. Photo by Andrew Bodien.

December 2013—17

Cross Training for Alpine Climbing

by Eugene Lewins

Planning a great season of climbs next year? Why cross-train? After all, cross-training is not intuitively better for maximizing sport performance. The best way to get ready to win the Tour de France, for example, may not be running or lifting weights but ... to ride your bike more!

But climbs are not really one activity, like rowing or bikeriding, with a very specific set of muscles and movement skills.

To be an all around alpine climber, you have to be something of an all around athlete. Take this northwest classic for example—Luna Peak. On the edge of the Northern Picketts, the 8,000-foot summit gives views into arguably the most remote country in the lower 48. But accessing that takes more than humping a pack along the ten miles of Big Beaver Trail.

From the end of the trail, crossing the fast-flowing river on a partially-submerged log requires balance skills. Heading up the bushwhack Access Creek, climbing over downed old-growth trunks and pushing through bands of slide alder, takes upper body strength. And if, like us, you end up running from a stinging bee swarm, your sprint power will be put to the test.

All of which is before the actual alpine climb itself—with it’s own challenges of cardio pumping gullies, steep heather slopes demanding ankle-flexing traverses, and mind-body steadiness on the rock scramble finish.

Okay, so widening my movement skills and power resources would be good. So where to start?

One place is to take an honest evaluation of what you like and do well at now. Do you go down to the gym and push weights? Do you put on a day pack and hike Corssing a log on Big Beaver Creek. up the fire lanes Photo: Angela Bohlke. in Forest Park?

Do you swim to take a break from wearing rain gear?

A simplistic approach might divide training into cardio, core-work, arm/leg strength, flexibility or balance. Note what you are focusing on now, and choose an activity that is complementary, not just different. For example, if you are really into bouldering now, a strength intensive activity, perhaps pumping iron isn’t going to be that much of a crosstrain. Instead choose something that is more about cardio,

such as hill walking.

Or, if you are into hill walking now, maybe this winter is the time to dare trying a Pilates mat class to boost core strength. And if you feel balanced between cardio and strength, have you been too busy up to now to accept your friend’s invitation to their favorite mind-body balancing flow Tai Chi class at the Rec Center?

A word of caution.

Don’t assume that you can simply add another activity to your existing schedule, especially if Descending Luna Peak by Eugene Lewins it is filling what was previously a rest day. As you start something new, listen to messages from your body if you are sore or fatigued. Overloading, particularly while you are learning new alignment, could cause injury. This is why the off-season—yes, that is NOW, when you won’t have to ramp down your conditioning right before a climb—is a great time to start cross-training.

This is the first in a series of articles. Upcoming articles: Goal Setting, Reducing Injuries, Specific cross-training exercises for climbers.

New Items for Sale You can now purchase Mazama hoodies, Mazama t-shirts, stickers, and several new books at the MMC! HOODIES: Navy blue, sizes from youth through 2XL—$25 members/$30 nonmembers T-SHIRTS: Navy blue, gender specific sizing, womens XS–XL, mens S–2XL (very limited number of gray shirts available)—$12 members/$15 nonmembers NEW BOOKS: Weekend Rock Oregon: Trad and Sport Routes from 5.0 to 5.10a. Author: Ron Horton Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness, Second Edition.

Author: David Musnick, M.D., Mark Pierce, A.T.C

18 —Mazama Bulletin

Petzl Nao

Gear Review: Petzl Nao

by Sarah Bradham

are running in the city where there are numerous street lamps, or climbing on a snowfield during a full moon, the I purchased my first headlamp in 1998. I knew nothing about headlamps light will automatically dim itself due to the ambient lighting. If you find that so I chose to defer to what everyone you need the light on a constant setting else was using at the time and you can also quickly switch it in to continuous mode which will disable the light picked up a Petzl Zoom. It had an sensor. incandescent bulb with an optional The Nao runs on a lithium-ion halogen bulb, rear battery pack, and it rechargeable battery and recharges via a conveniently ran on three AA batteries USB connection. It also runs off two triple A batteries when recharging is not available. or a Duracell 4.5 volt battery. It was You’ll average about five hours in reactive incredibly bulky, but the headlamp lighting level 1 with a distance view of itself only weighed 8 oz and it ran for around 107 meters. For really technical sections of terrain you can 19.5 hours on the 4.5 change to level 2, which has volt battery. Pretty an increased brightness but good stats ... even decreases the battery life by for today.

1 hour to approximately 4 hours. At level 3 you’ll As the years have stretch the battery life to rolled by there have around 8 hours (it seems been numerous changes counter intuitive that level 2 in the headlamp decreases battery life while market. Incandescent level 3 increases, but that’s and halogen bulbs Petzl Zoom, circa 1998. the way it’s programmed). gave way to LEDs and headlamps Even at level 3 you’ll have a distance view of became much smaller and lighter. Since I 58 meters, which is still brighter than many have horrible night vision, in the past 15 other headlamps on the market. By way years I have gone through more headlamps of comparison, the Petzl Myo RXP at its than any one person should—always looking moderate setting has a throw of 50 meters. for that perfect combination of bright light, The Nao sports a handy feature that long battery life, and as light as possible begins to warn you about 45 minutes before while meeting my first two criteria. I was the battery dies by blinking three times in mostly happy with the Petzl Myo (2009 rapid succession. The blinking will continue model year, max distance of 72 meters; max approximately every 10 minutes until the lumens 150 in Boost mode) for climbing and battery dies. This gives you enough time backpacking, yet I still remember finding to ready your spare batteries and make the myself in a climbing situation where I was trying to throw enough light across a crevasse change before your light dies completely.

The Petzl OS has preset lighting modes field to see what was on the other side, only including mountaineering, trail running, to find I didn’t have the lumens to do it. mountain biking, and backpacking/hiking.

Yet, I didn’t really feel the need to replace But you can also customize a new profile the lamp as it worked well for 90 percent of to provide the precise level of lighting that what I wanted to do. is best for you. The software allows you to That is, until I decided to start trail toggle the power percentage of the wide and running at night. The third time I found focused beam, and the reading threshold, myself bushwhacking in Forest Park because along with how long you need to hold down I had run off trail yet again I knew that I the twist knobs to move between different needed something brighter. Lucky for me the settings.

Petzl Nao had just hit the market and REI There is a large twist knob on the side of happened to have it in stock. the lamp to turn it on and off. One turn and The Nao works on Petzl’s new reactive you are in reactive lighting level 1, another lighting technology. The headlamp has a light turn gives you level 2, hold the knob down sensor that measures the amount of reflected for 2 seconds and it switches to constant light and adjusts the lamp accordingly. By mode. The knob is big enough that it easy to using the reactive lighting settings you can use even with bulky mittens or gloves. dramatically increase the battery life. If you

The harness systems is a bit different than most headlamps and takes a bit of getting used to. There is a pull toggle on the back of the battery pack for tightening the straps, and it comes with an optional top strap.

The Nao has a rear-mounted battery pack for the lithium ion battery. You can purchase an optional belt clip attachment if you are bothered by the weight of the battery pack on the back of your head.

After using Nao exclusively for the last eight months there are a lot of things I love about it. For lumens and brightness I haven’t found anything that can beat it. It lights up a trail like daylight and you really feel like you can see everything around you. I also really appreciate having a rechargeable battery. When you use a headlamp frequently it’s disheartening to go through so many batteries—both from a cost and conservation standpoint. Having the rechargeable battery limits that concern. The reactive lighting is great and I’ve found most of the preset programs are adequate for my needs.

Things that I don’t like? The strapping system could use a bit of work. Sometimes I find it hard to tighten down properly and I’ll have to stop a few times to get the adjustment just right (attached to a helmet this would not be a problem). The battery life, while good, could be better. I would really like to see 12 hours on one charge to limit the worry of carrying spares. However, the compatibility with triple-A’s takes a bit of that worry away as triples are a pretty standard battery to carry along on a trip.

The price of the Nao might make you pause. At $175 (list price) the reactive lighting, customizability, and lumens don’t come cheap. If you don’t need as many lumens you can save some money and go with the new Petzl Tikka RXP. It also offers up reactive lighting, but in a smaller package (4.1 ounces, front mount battery), it’s max output is half the Nao, at 180 lumens.

I’ve done the majority of my testing of the Nao while trail and road running, along with a bit of backpacking. I’m looking forward to testing it out in the mountains this winter.

Tech specs of Petzl Nao: 6.5 ounces, max lumens: 355, max beam distance: 108 meters beam type: flood and spot, rechargeable battery, LED. December 2013—19

Welcome to the Mazamas!

Monthly New Member and Volunteer Orientation Night Wednesday, Jan. 29; 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Are you new to the Mazamas and looking to learn more about getting involved?

Are you curious about volunteering with the organization but not sure how to get started?

Want to learn some interesting Mazama history trivia?

Join us for the first monthly Welcome Night, to be held on Wednesday, Jan. 29 (the last Wednesday of the month) at 7 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

We’ll give you some background on the Mazamas, talk about all of the different activities and events you can get involved with, give you a calendar of upcoming events and go through the various opportunities to volunteer.

Snacks will be provided!

Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, to RSVP.

An adventurous group of hikers, Wed, Nov. 13. Photo: Rex Breunsbach.

TOGETHER WE CAN TACKLE CARBON EMISSIONS AND CLIMATE CHANGE We have the knowledge and technology to substantially reduce our carbon emissions, create a clean-energy economy, and provide sustainable livability for our children and our grandchildren.

SIMPLE ACTION ITEMS

 Write letters to your elected officials and demand action on climate change.  Public policy decisions can dramatically affect carbon emission levels, such as car emission standards, power plant emission standards, carbon tax, denying permits for pipelines, trains, and barges which carry fossil fuels for export to Asia, etc.  Support candidates for public office who are pro-active in the fight to lower carbon emissions.  Take simple practical steps to reduce our personal carbon emissions.  Speak-up assertively when we hear non-scientific statements from climate-change deniers and be ready to present the scientific facts from knowledgeable sources.  Join and actively participate with local environmental groups who take a pro-active stand against transport of fossil fuels for export to Asia. Attend hearings! Write letters!

LOCAL CLIMATE CHANGE ORGANIZATIONS

Friends of the Columbia Gorge, http://www.gorgefriends.org/section.php?id=79 Columbia Riverkeeper http://columbiariverkeeper.org/, Power Past Coal http://www.powerpastcoal.org/ Information Resource: Union of Concerned Scientists, www.ucsusa.org

20 —Mazama Bulletin

This is a paid advertisement.

Photo credits: © 2013 John Granen.

Mt. Rainier July 13–16, July 20–23, July 28–31, 2014 Mt. Hood June 24–25, June 26 –27, 2014 Mt. Adams August 6 –7, 2014 Informational Kick-off Meetings: Seattle: January 23, 2014 at REI Seattle at 6:30pm Portland: January 28, 2014 at NW Lucky Lab at 6:30pm Honorary Chairs Stacy Allison and Win Whittaker

For More Info Contact: Mt. Rainier & Mt. Adams 206.512.3281

Sponsored By:

Mt. Hood 503.718.6151

climbforcleanair.com

ICS team that climbed Monkey Face at Smith Rock State Park on Sunday, Oct. 20. (Left to Right) Matt Blecharz, Benjamin Grandy, Darrell Weston, Stephanie Spence. Photo: Brad Unruh.

22 —Mazama Bulletin

We Teach Trad

Advanced Rock Applications Accepted Dec. 2–Jan. 21 Applications will be accepted soon for the Mazamas Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad class (AR) runs from March–May 2014.

To view more information about the course and to apply, visit tinyurl. com/mazamaar. The class consists of: • Series of 11 lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands-on demos or exercises where appropriate.

• 8 weekend field sessions coordinated by skilled, experienced climbers.

• Opportunities to meet new and experienced rock climbers.

• An invitation to 2–4 rock climbing outings (spring through fall); no climb card required.

• A chance to learn about local climbing areas.

• Involvement in a supportive group that will facilitate learning new skills and challenging yourself through climbing.

• FUN!! And lots of it.

If you have questions, contact the leadership team at mazamas.ar@ gmail.com or the Mazamas Office at 503-227-2345.

Interested in Assisting for AR? Sign up for one of the AR Assistant Update Sessions!

Dates: • Jan. 9, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC • Feb. 27, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC No registration required— just come on by! Or for more information, email mazamas.ar@ gmail.com.

December 2013—23

Trekking in Patagonia

LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2013

outings

Adventure Travel

Feb. 8–22, 2014 At the southern end of the Earth lies a wide, windswept, wonderful land called Patagonia. Though it’s technically in both Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is a place of its own, a land of calving glaciers, vast lakes, awesome steppes and peaks so jagged and immense they pause the mind and stir the heart.

Patagonia calls to the adventure traveler and mainly to the hiker.

Once in Patagonia, we will spend two weeks doing both day hikes and multi-day hikes both in Chile and Argentina. We’ll day-hike into the mighty range of peaks dominated by Monte Fitz Roy, an 11,020-ft. tower whose sheer face of more than 6,000 ft. makes it one of the world’s most challenging climbs.

We’ll also catch views of the Continental Ice Field and walk on the surface of the sprawling Perito Moreno Glacier. In Chile we will visit the Torres del Paine National Park. Here lie the famous Towers of Paine. In the park, we’ll hike hut-to-hut for five days along the “W” Circuit (named for its shape), winding in and out of spectacular mountain valleys, past Grey Glacier and up the spectacular French Valley, surrounded by hanging glaciers and an amphitheater of granite walls and spires.

Contact donovan@embarkadventures.com for more details. $3,995 per person excluding air fare. Need a minimum of eight people to go.

Big Island Adventure Hawaii Feb. 26–March 8, 2014 Join us as we explore the Big Island of Hawaii. Our itinerary will include summit attempts on Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea as well as exploring Volcanoes National Park, the city of refuge, Waimanu Valley and other cultural and historical areas of interest on the Island. The 6-8 participants will need to be in good physical condition and should have experience in at least one 12,000 ft. peak. We will have a somewhat flexible schedule dependent on weather and team interests. We will be staying in hotel/rental home, National Park cabins as well as tent camping. The cost of the outing will be between $930 and $1235 and excludes airfare.

Contact the leader, Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) for more information.

The Mother of All Street Rambles: New York City April 29-May 7, 2014 Lodging is in a very desirable location close to Central Park. Hike Central Park and visit sites of interest all over Manhattan, Hudson River, East River, and Long Island--via Ramble and occasional ferry or subway. It is time that New York City learned who the Mazamas are! NYC will seem a lot smaller once it is rambled!

Original plans have changed due to loss of lodging opportunities.

Please see below the new group max and cost change ($200 less per person).

This Outing is priced based on a group of 12. Initial registration fee has 3 tiers which include Mazamas fees for members. 2 to a bed: $532 each, single bed: $657, sleeping bag: $407. Please go to the custom webpage listed below to see remaining lodging openings.

24 —Mazama Bulletin

Airfare ($320-$400) is not included and not required at time of registration. All registration money goes to lodging and miscellaneous refundable fees. Leader John A. Davis (503-358-5900), co-leader Steven Watts. For pictures of lodging, itinerary, additional information, and additional costs see outing’s website where no stone is left unturned: http://208.106.134.151/NYC2014.aspx

Great Smoky Mountains —Hikes & Culture May 10 - 18, 2014 Take a week in Western North Carolina as we explore the spectacular Appalachian scenery along with learning about the mountain culture of the area. The hikes will be “B” level -- 7-8 miles and elevation up to 2000ft with options for tougher “B” hikes up to 3000 ft with up to 10 miles.

The typical pace will be leisurely so we can enjoy the beauty of the oldest mountains in North America, at least two sections of the Appalachian Trail as well as favorite trails of the Outing Leader who led hikes in the area for eight years.

We will have time in the evenings to enjoy the arts, crafts, and music of the area or simply hang out at the Creekside Lodge with its indoor swimming pool, fire pits, micro-fridges, and other amenities. We will take a break Wednesday to visit Asheville, NC, or other places in the area. The Outing cost is $380 and includes all lodging and fees. Participants are responsible for their meals, airline cost, and car rental.

Max. 26 participants. Deposit of $100 due by Feb. 15, 2014.

For more information and an application form, contact: Jim Selby selbyjb@comcast.net, ph. 828-508-5094 (leader) or Dick Meissner, dick.meissner@Frontier.com, ph. 503-692-9065 (assistant leader).

Italian Dolomites Outing May 31–June 15, 2014 This outing will consist of alpine climbing, rock climbing, via ferrata (self-belayed on existing anchors and cables with specialized leashes or kits), hiking, mountain biking and exploring. I am proposing a limit of 12 people for a total maximum team size of 14 including myself and the assistant leader. Minimum group size 7.

We will fly into Milan on Sat. May 31st and Sunday June 1st - people arriving early have a day to spend exploring Milan.

We will rent two box vans and drive to Arco to spend 3 nights exploring the heart of Italy’s sport climbing mecca. From there we will drive to the quaint little town of Antermoia with the objective of climbing a fairly easy via ferrata up the Sass de Putia. Then we move on to our primary base camp of the trip in Cortina d’Ampezzo - this is a major base of operations opening up access to some of the coolest terrain in the Dolomites including Tre Cima de Lavaredo, Tofana di Rozes and Cinque Torre. Next up, is Canazei where we can access the highest peak in the Dolomites; The Marmolada as well as the famous Sassonger and other climbing around Corvara and Colfusco. Finally, we will head back to Milan via Lake Como.

This outing will potentially include climbing of all levels; rock climbing of all grades, all day multi-pitch routes, via ferrata levels from 1 to 5, spectacular scenery for hiking and biking plus waterfalls and plenty of amazing scenery.

In addition to all of that, the area is steeped in history

Tuscany Outing Info Night­—Jan. 9 Join outing leader Paul Gerald for an informal, open-house meeting from 6:30–8 p.m. at MMC. Find out more about the 2014 Mazama outing to Tuscany and Cinque Terre. Paul will show pictures and answer questions about the hiking and touring trip that runs from Aug. 31–Sep. 12. Come see if this trip might be for you, and if you’re already going, this is a chance to meet your fellow adventurers. surrounding World War I and the mountain war that took place between Austria and Italy. We will tour a museum dedicated to the mountain war as well as explore hidden outposts and see relics of the past while we walk in the footsteps of the soldiers that lived and fought in these jagged mountains.

For more information, contact outing leader: Ryan Christie @ ryandchristie@yahoo.com. The assistant leader is Kevin Clark @ mandrake@europa.com.

Corsica Long-Distance Hiking June 14–30, 2014 Seeking a long-distance hike with spectacular scenery, culture and typically great summer weather?

The GR20, “one of the top trails in the world,” according to outdoor writer Paddy Dillon, winds 125 miles along the crest of the island of Corsica.

This is not a plod along with your mind on something else kind of a trail, but a rocky and varying high route with scrambling options and both alpine and ocean views. Using a local company as outfitters, we will carry only day packs and sleep in refuges or set tents, enjoying simple local cuisine at group meals. 16 days of hiking, with the longest day being 13 miles and 3,300 ft. ascent, and highest altitude 7,300 ft. We will hike from south to north, leaving the climactic Cirque de la Solitude for the second week, and enjoy the best light for photography.

The island of Corsica, administered as part of France but with its own unique culture, makes a destination both accessibly westernEuropean and yet exotically Mediterranean. Trip leader speaks French and both leader and assistant have led European tours and hiked long-distance trails. Group size 8– 10, outing costs $3,000 plus airfare, $500 deposit.

Leader: Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@gmail.com), Assistant Leader: Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com)

Chamonix—Mt. Blanc Climbing

Also included will be instruction on advanced rescue techniques prior to leaving Portland. For those ICS grads that have not done any ice climbing, we also plan to do a one-day instruction/review of ice climbing technique on the Mer de glace glacier when we first arrive while acclimatizing.

Participants will be expected to bring their own personal climbing equipment, group gear will be provided. Info night Tuesday, Nov. 19 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. Contact Lee Davis Lee@mazamas.org (leader) or Lisa Brady pdxlisab@gmail.com (assistant leader) for more details. Website info facebook.com/mazamasinchamonix

Hiking and Touring in Tuscany and Cinque Terre Aug. 31–Sept. 12, 2014 You know about the food and the wine and the beautiful countryside, but Italy is also home to some fabulous hiking. On this outing we will sample three kinds of hikes – mountains, coast, and rolling hill country – while mixing in off-the-beaten-track touring and simply amazing meals.

We meet in Florence to get settled, wander the bustling streets, and admire some of the world’s finest art, including Michelangelo’s David. Then we’ll head to the walled city of Lucca, of our base for three days of hiking in and around the Apuane Alps, one of the world’s great sources of marble.

From Lucca, it’s out to the coast, where spend two full days walking to all five villages of the legendary Cinque Terre, using trains to return to our base each night. Among other treats, this is the region where pesto was invented!

We then head into the magical Chianti hill country, where we spend several days hiking to medieval villages, monasteries, wineries, and other sites. We might even get to see the start of grape harvest!

Many meals will be in private homes, arranged by our guide Silvio, a lifelong Tuscan.

The cost of about $4,000 (it all depends on trip details, number of people, and the exchange rate) covers everything but airfare and souvenirs. For more information, contact leader Paul Gerald, paul@ paulgerald.com or 971-227-2059.

July 7–21, 2014 Nestled near the border of Switzerland, Italy, and France, lies the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix France. We’ll be there in peak alpine climbing season for two full weeks. Based at the foot of the Mt. Blanc Massif with hundreds of day trip objectives on snow, ice, and rock, this will be a unique opportunity for climbers to explore the Alps and stretch their skills. This will be a strenuous outing with climbing opportunities daily for the duration of the trip. Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School graduates or equivalent. Participants should also have a good fitness level as a large portion of the alpine climbs start at 11,000 ft. Outing cost will be $1,995 per person, airfare not included. Costs include round trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix, and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt Blanc area for 14 days (all lifts, gondolas, cog trains, and cable cars are included).

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers. org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www. outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

December 2013—25

NEW OUTINGS POLICIES

by Joe Whittington, Outings Committee Chair On Sep. 10, 2013, the Mazama Executive Council approved the following proposals regarding Mazama Outing fees and Outings Committee Membership: 1. Increase daily Outing fee from: • $10 per day from $5 per day for members • $20 per day from $10 per day for nonmembers • Effective for all new Outings proposed after Oct. 1, 2013 Outing fees cover the infrastructure costs for administering the outings. Much of the labor involved is done by volunteers, but their time is considered a cost. Additionally, the Outings Committee would like to have better accounting of both income and expense cash flow. Given current prices for commercial guided trips, the $5/$10 per day fee is absurdly low. We do not believe that raising the fee will reduce the number of people going on outings.

The increased fees will cover the following expenses: • Additional accounting expense for more current and detailed tracking of receipts and expenses.

• Online payment, including the option to ustilize credit cards. The fee increase will cover the credit card service charges.

• Fees waived for Outings Committee members as defined in Proposal 2.

2. Waive Outing Fee for Outings Committee members: • Outings Committee members will have their outing fees waived while on the Outings Committee after one year of service.

• After completing three years of service on the Outings Committee, a member would have their Outing fees waived for all future outings while a Mazama member in good standing.

Having a clear incentive to serve on the Outings Committee would help recruit and retain members. This will put the Outings 26 —Mazama Bulletin

Committee in congruence with the Climbing and Trail Trips Committees whose members have their fees waived after serving on those committees.

Since the objective is recruitment and retention, this only applies to current and future members of the Outings Committee.

As chair of the Outings Committee, I wish to apologize that the proposals were not better communicated to the membership. We wanted to make the proposals effective for the 2013–14 fiscal year; however, the Outings Committee is understaffed and we were unable to meet that timeline.

Mazama Outings provide a high value opportunity to travel and experience amazing areas in both the United States and internationally. However, it’s a lot of work to essentially run a wide-ranging outfitter service from within the Mazamas. Publicizing, receiving funds, making payments, and keeping track of receipts and disbursements—all these tasks require a significant amount of time and effort from staff and volunteers. Outings Committee responsibilities include establishing and monitoring policies and procedures, assisting outing leaders, and approving and tracking outings. We are also working to simplify the outing registration and proposal process.

Approval of the two proposals to increase fees and enhance the benefits of committee membership enable the committee to be financially responsible for infrastructure costs, appropriately staff the Outings Committee, and encourage nonmember outings participants to become Mazama members.

We invite you to join the Outings Committee. It provides exciting insight to all the places we can go and excellent experience in managing adventure travel.

Please contact Joe Whittington at joewhittington@gmail.com or call 503-297-6344 if you are interested.

Time Warp Jack Grauer

1963 — 50 Years Ago Climbing season awardees were looking back with pride and pleasure at their recognition at the Annual Banquet. Guardian Peaks, 54 honored; Oregon Cascades, 7; Sixteen Peaks, 4; 5-point leader, 6; 10-point leader, 7; 15-point leader, 3 (Allison Belcher, John McCloskey, Amos Smelser).

Dec. 8, 1963: Neil Baldwin led a trail improvement party in the Columbia Gorge. Dec 15: Meet leader Dortha Kirkkham in Lafayette for a mistletoe gathering trip at Champoeg Park. Dec. 29: Harold Bangs led a Trail Tip to the newly-established Oxbow County Park on the Sandy River.

Year-end festivities! Christmas Party, Wednesday, Dec. 18. Fun for adults and their children with music, singing, and dancing at the clubrooms. Party committee, chaired by Margery Moore, included Martha Darcy, Jeanette Carlstead, Mildred Dill, Beverley Helmer, Dorothy Egg. New Year’s Eve Party at Mazama Lodge featured a buffet dinner, followed by dancing and games. Chaired by Margaret Oberteuffer and the Lodge Committee.

Watford Reed, Church Editor at the Oregon Journal, was off for a sweeping tour of Europe to cover church events in several nations.

John Biewener, Mazama president in the 1950s, and his wife, Margaret, announced the birth of their son, Daniel Paul. They resided in Shawnee Mission, Kansas.

1913 — 100 Years Ago

Who were the people running The Mazamas 100 years ago?

• • • • • • • • •

President—H.H. Prouty V.P.—J.E. Bronaugh 2nd V.P.—O.B.Balou Secretary—E.C.Sammons Record Sec.—Gertrude E. Faber Finance—Louisa Almy Treasurer—William P. Hardesty Historian—Beatrice Young Outing Committee: Beatrice Young, Anne Shannon Monroe, H.H. Prouty, B.A. Thaxter, E.C. Sammons • Membership: William P. Hardesty, Martha O. Goldap, Louisa Almy, George Miller, E.C. Sammons • Local Outings: William P. Hardesty , Anna C. Dillinger, C.B. Woodworth, J.E. Bronaugh, LeRoy Anderson • Entertainment: Louise Almy, Raymond E. Coursen, Anna C. Dillinger, E.C. Sammons, Nettie G. Richardson, Dr. C.V. Luther • Headquarters: J.E. Bronaugh, Henry L.Pittock, John A. Lee, Rodney L. Glisan, R.W. Montague Back in 1913, a few people were serving in several positions.

Of course, Mazama membership was much lower then. Do you recognize any of those names? Well, Henry Pittock, publisher of the Oregonian was a former Mazama president who built Portland’s Pittock Mansion. And we all drive Glisan Street now and then.

Mountain goats visiting a lakeside camp in the Enchantments.

Photo: Regis Krug.

December 2013—27

Go Hiking!

HK A2 Dec 01 (Sun) Herman Creek Pinnacles. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. View of water fall and easy 950 ft. elevation hike. Just to keep you in shape.

Be ready for slippery trail.

Could be snow this time of year so bring poles. 6 miles 950 ft.

Dr. 78 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Dec 01 (Sun) Greenleaf Falls. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556. Near Table Mountain —Greenleaf Falls is the tallest and probably the most dramatic waterfall on Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge.

It consists of a plunge of about

HK A1.5 Dec 07 (Sat) Portland Zoo to Pittock Mansion. Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456. Go along part of the forested Wildwood Trail. We will pass the Vietnam Veteran Memorial, get a glimpse of the Japanese Garden and walk through the Hoyt Arboretum. A view of Portland can be seen from Pittock Mansion. We can visit Pittock Mansion decorated for the holidays if desired. We will decide at the meeting place. Ticket is $8.50.

6 miles 800 ft. Dr. 0 Forest Park—Zoo—MAX Sta. 9 a.m.

Be prepared for an adventure.

Car shuttle due to shorter days. 7.5 miles 3,800 ft. Dr. 70 Target/185th 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Dec 09 (Mon) Pup Creek Falls (Indian Henry) Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556.

Wilderness—Limit 12. We will travel along the Clackmas River trail from Fish Creek. This hike is good in any kind of weather.

Expect lots of water on this one.

8.5 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 94 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK C2 Dec 11 (Wed) Herman Creek/Cedar Swamp Wilderness—Limit 12. Come and enjoy the beauty of HerContact Trail Trips Committee chair updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike man Creek with spectacuJim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any for the current month after the Bulletin is lar falls on this questions. To lead a hike in October, log on published, or occasionally a hike location well graded to the Trails Trips website at http://www. may change due to conditions, so please visit trail. May need mazamas2.org. tinyurl.com/mazamahikeschedule. snow shoes Note: “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young so watch the weather! Sevthe hike enters a Forest Service-designated Mazamas (AYM) offers hikes too, and eral stream Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. everyone is welcome. See the separate list at crossings also.

Check the website for new hikes and http://tinyurl.com/mazamaaym.

14.6 miles 2,640 ft. Dr. 78 TH MMC 8 a.m.

100 feet and a series of cascades Creek—Cross-Over Falls Gary below. 9 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 90 Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com. HK A1.5 Dec 13 (Fri) Beacon Wilderness—Limit 12. Eagle Rock/Rodney Falls. Jim Selby Gateway 8 a.m.

Creek in it’s winter glory. En- (828-508-5094. Leader has a HK B2 Dec 02 (Mon) Devils joy several waterfalls along this Parking Pass and we’ll hope Rest (via Wahkeena). Paul Stewell-graded trail. Hike may be that Friday the 13th is lucky for ger PaulSteger@q.com. Hike via shortened or moved depending weather! We’ll do Beacon Rock Wahkeena trail to Devils Rest, on snow and ice conditions. first, have a break, then do looping back to Wahkeena via (Signup at Gateway TC only.) Rodney Falls with lunch on that Foxglove trail. Listen and look 12.6 miles 1,080 ft ft. Dr. 74 trial. Each is a 600 ft. elevation for pika in rocks along Columchange. We’ll take our time for TH Gateway TC 8:30 a.m. bia Gorge trail on return. 7.4 this really nice winter hike on a miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 45 MMC HK A2 Dec 08 (Sun) Dry Creek stable trail. 5 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 8 a.m.

Falls. Terry Lawson lawson.ter100 StatePark MMC 8:30 a.m. ry@gmail.com. This is a short HK B2 Dec 04 (Wed) Indian hike along the PCT from the HK A2 Dec 14 (Sat) Latourell Point Kurt Hiland kurthikes@ Cascade Locks TH through the Falls. Flora Huber 503-658msn.com. Wilderness—Limforest to a beautiful waterfall, 5710. Beautiful, Lower and Upit 12. Indian Point is a rock where we will stop for a snack per Falls, loop hike. 2.3 miles spire that can be seen from I-84 while we admire the falls. If 600 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8:30 east of Cascade Locks. We’ll interested, we can have lunch in a.m. trudge up the Nick Eaton Ridge Cascade Locks at the end. 5.4 HK A2.5 Dec 14 (Sat) Forest switchbacks, eat lunch at the miles 710 ft. Dr. 78 TH GatePark, City View. Terry Lawrock spire viewpoint, then reway 8 a.m. son 971-998-5810. This hike turn on Gorton Cr trail. 8.5 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 90 MMC HK B2.5 Dec 08 (Sun) Wahkee- features nice views of the city na–Multnomah Creeks Loop. from Aspen Ave together with 8 a.m.

Steve Kingsbury 503-780-7581. a hike through Forest Park on HK A2 Dec 06 (Fri) Forest Park Great waterfalls and rushing the Wildwood, Alder and Leif loop. Mark Sanzone msancreeks views. 5.4 miles 1,700 ft. Erikson trails. Call leader if you zone@yahoo.com. Springville wish to meet at TH instead of Dr. 48 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

Rd TH, off Skyline Blvd. Call MMC. 6.5 miles 700 ft. Dr. 17 503-6790962 for directions if HK C2 Dec 08 (Sun) ElkMMC 8:30 a.m. needed. Easy morning hike, free Kings Traverse. Rick Craycraft by noon. 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@ HK B2 Dec 14 (Sat) Cape Horn.

None 9 a.m. juno.com. Rigorous coast clas- Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. sic. Sometimes pouring rain, The Cape Horn Trail is one of sometimes snow to negotiate. the closest Gorge trails to the

28 —Mazama Bulletin

HK B2.5 Dec 07 (Sat) Eagle

Portland-Vancouver metropolitan area. It features gorgeous views, rocky crags, streams and two waterfalls. 7 miles 1400 ft.

Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Dec 14 (Sat) Hamilton Mt. and Then Some. Regis Krug hikerin97070@gmail.com 5037046442. This will not be your typical Hamilton Mt. hike.

After summitting Hamilton via the “more difficult” trail, we’ll drop down to the ridge to the north, but rather than heading down the road, we’ll continue on to the unmarked open peak to the north via logging roads and trails. Exploratory hike. Unsure of total distance & elevation gain. Snow likely.

10+ miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 88 TH Washington Discover Pass reqd.

7 a.m.

HK A2.5 Dec 15 (Sun) Forest Park, Stone House. Sue Brickey 503-775-2464. Begin at Lower Macleay Park beneath the Thurman Street Bridge. Follow Lower Macleay Trail along Balch Creek. 6.89 miles 870 Feet ft. Dr. estimate 10 miles None 10 a.m.

HK B2.5 Dec 15 (Sun) Lake Oswego Circumnavigation.

Kate Evans 503-635-6540. We will circumnavigate the lake in Lake Oswego on roads. 7.1 miles 152 ft. Dr. 0 LO Art Center, 368 S. State Street 8:30 a.m.

HK C2 Dec 15 (Sun) Cedar Mountain & Table Mountain.

Kurt Hiland kurthikes@msn. com. Take the scenic route to the summit of Table - via the ridge-like Cedar Mountain.

Bring winter pack, headlamp, poles, boot traction and sunny disposition. 11 miles 3,700 ft.

Dr. 84 Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Dec 18 (Wed) Aldrich Butte, Cedar Falls. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. In addition to the great view from Aldrich Butte, this hike explores a little known section of the Gorge between Table Mountain and Hamilton Mountain 5.8 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 84 MMC 8 a.m.

SS A Dec 20 (Fri) Moonlight Snowshoe, White River. Joe Whittington joewhittington@ gmail.com. Let’s usher in the Winter Solstice with, hopefully, a moonlight snow shoe. Bring warm clothes, hot drinks, and, for the exceptionally optimistic,

Supporting outdoor enthusiasts x-train wellness rehab Weekly Yoga Classes camera and tripod. We’ll cancel if it’s a miserable forecast. Please email leader if you plan to go. 4 miles 200 ft. Dr. 120 SnoPark Gateway P&R 6 p.m.

through old-growth spruce forest, blufftop meadows, and pass rocky shores. Plan on a full day and any kind of weather. 8.1 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 182 Gateway 8 a.m.

Therapeutic Massage

Eugene Lewins

www.MassageWithEugene.com

503-939-9657 HK A3 Dec 21 (Sat) Beaverton WestLMT 16438 side Trail. Steve Kingsbury 503-7807581. This hike will be covering 3 new sections of the Beaverton Westside Trail. This will be a brisk walk to burn off some of those Holiday calories.

Be prepared for rain. This is a paved multi use trail. Meet Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles at Chehelem Elementry School that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike 15555 SW Davis Rd., Beaverschedule. ton OR. Intersection of SW Davis Road and SW 155th Ave Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl in Beaverton. 6.4 miles 600 ft. Dr. 0 Chehelam Elementry Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI in the Pearl. Rambles School Beaverton 8:30 a.m. start promptly at 6 p.m. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These

Rambles Corner

HK B2 Dec 21 (Sat) Indian rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 ft. and meet at REI-Pearl NW 14th and Johnson 6 p.m.

Point Loop. Brett Nair 503847-9550. A popular hike with views of the gorge, weather permitting.Watch out for the SS B Dec 28 (Sat) Twin Lakes SnowWinter Sasquatch! 8 Mile miles 2,600 show. David Nelson 503-657-4058. We ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 8 a.m. will snowshoe from Frog Lake snow HK B2 Dec 21 (Sat) Waespe Point. Rex park to the lower and then upper Twin Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Short and Lakes where we may get a glimpse of Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. quick pre-Christmas hike in the area Mt. Hood. Have lunch and then return Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. above Multnomah Falls. Will hike up to cars. Pace will be easy/moderate.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over Multnomah Creek to the Multnomah Call leader if questions. 5.6 miles 700 3,000 feet. basin and visit the Christmas trail and ft. Dr. 110 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m.

Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions. its colorful decorations. 8 miles 1,800 Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory .

HK A2 Dec 31 (Tue) Forest Park, Rollft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8 a.m.

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill er Coaster. Rex Breunsbach 971-832speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 SS A Dec 21 (Sat) White River West 2556. New Years Eve morning warmbeing a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

Snowshoe David Nelson 503-657- up in Forest Park. We will hike down Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to 4058. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will from Skyline to Highway 30 and then clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if venture up White River canyon approx. back up. Start early, done by noon, in they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person 2 miles, gain the West ridge and travel plenty of time to ring in the New Year. if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome off trail back to the Cars. Pace will be 7.5 miles 800 ft. Dr. 25 MMC 8 a.m. at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. easy/moderate. Bring ski poles. Think HK C2 Jan 01 (Wed) Dog Mountain.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th and Snow. Call leader if questions. 4 miles Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit David Zeps 503-333-7783. goes great 600 ft. Dr. 110 SnoPark Gateway 8 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; SalmonCreek with Dom Perignon Dawg, dawn, day a.m.

P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ 1, 2014. Leader coming from Trout Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); HK A2 Dec 22 (Sun) Stone House. Lake, to trailhead, meet at dog Mtn. Durham–P&R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Susan Koch 971-678-3446. We’ll meet trailhead to at 8:30 a.m. Be ready Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendat the upper Macleay parking lot and for interesting and snowy conditions. leton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; follow the Wildwood Trail past the Will cajole hungover hikers to summit.

Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving Stone House and through lovely forest Drive 98 miles form Portland—set up mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. for a loop. Great way to get ready for carpools on your own. 7 miles 2,800 the holiday season! 6 miles 500 ft. Dr. ft. Dr. n/a TH no carpool, meet at Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs.

NA None 9 a.m. trailhead or arrange carpools. 8:30 a.m.

The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for departure from the trailhead.

HK A2 Dec 23 (Mon) Triple Falls Jim hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed.

Selby (828) 508-5094. Wilderness— SS A Jan 04 (Sat) Twin Lakes Snowshoe Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain Limit 12. Forget the last-minute shop- Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail. gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food ping; let’s do last minute hiking on com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Snowshoe and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical this very pretty winter hike. Subject to from Frog Lake Sno-Park to Lower and condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline change depending on weather but there Upper Twin Lakes and return. Please anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike are lots of good alternatives. Definitely contact leader by e-mail if you plan in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considstop for hot chocolate or coffee on way to go. 6 miles 700 ft. Dr. 110 SnoPark ered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must back to Gateway 5 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. Gateway P&R 7:30 a.m. pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them 60 Gateway 8:30 a.m. or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, HK B2 Dec 28 (Sat) Harts Cove. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Surf’s Up on the Oregon Coast. We will travel

weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

December 2013—29

Cleaning out your gear closet?

When trading up on equipment or organizing a stuffed gear shelf don’t forget to set items aside for the Mazama Used Equipment Sale Mark your calendar for Friday, March 21, 2014 5–6 p.m. Mazama members and students in climbing classes 6–8 p.m. Sale open to general public Mazama Mountaineering Center SE 43 Avenue and Stark Street Questions? Ask the Mazama Used Equipment Sale organizers: Kathleen Hahn —kathleenhahn@sbcglobal.net Lori Coyner (Lambert)—loricoyner@gmail.com Annie McCartney—McCartneyannmarie@yahoo.com Watch for more information in upcoming issues of the Bulletin and on the Mazamas website, www.mazamas.org.

Tech Screw-lock

50% OFF

Redpoint Shoes 10 pc. Nut Set

50% OFF

PDX Rock Climbs Guide

25% OFF

24 IN. DYNEMA SLINGS

50% OFF

X-Static Belay D-Lite Screwgate

50% OFF

30 —Mazama Bulletin

50% OFF

High Mtn. Axe w/leash

50% OFF

50% OFF

Executive Council Minutes Nov. 12, 2013 Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Bronson Potter–President; Sojo Hendrix– Vice President; Terry Donahe– Treasurer; Meg Goldberg– Secretary; Judith Baker, Heather Campbell, Kate Evans, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber. Lee Davis, Executive Director.

Prior to the executive council session, Social Venture Partners (SVP) and Encore Fellow Director, Steven Ristau met with council to answer questions and give more information about the Encore Fellows Program. The Encore Fellows Program places private sector professionals with nonprofits to help with a range of projects. Mazamas is looking at an Encore Fellow placement to help with implementation of the Strategic Plan. The cost of the ellow may be paid in part or full by the sponsoring organization (Intel or HP).

Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m.

The minutes of the October 8, 2013 meeting minutes were approved.

Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg.

There were 29 applications for membership and one reinstatement. Total membership as of Oct. 31, 2013 is 3,423.

This is an increase of 128 members since this time last year.

Treasurer’s Report: Written report submitted by Terry Donahe. Report filed for audit.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available for membership on page 3.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Adventurous Young Mazamas • Climbing: Per Bill McLoughlin, chair of Climb Committee’s request, the Committee’s Desired Council Action is moved to the February agenda.

• Expedition Committee

• Financial Affairs • Old Timer’s • Outings • Outreach • Risk Management • Strategic Planning • Trail Trips The reports were unanimously approved and received on the consent agenda.

Regular Committee Reports Beacon Rock Film Project: Library Committee—The committee requests that council approve the release of funds in the amount of $2,000 for the Beacon Rock Film Project so that filming will take place prior to the Feb.1 raptor-management closure of Beacon Rock. Judith Baker moves to approve $2,000 from the Becker Fund to support the Beacon Rock Film Project.

Motion seconded. Motion Passed. Action: Approved.

New Business FY 2013/14 Funding Plan: Lee Davis. Meg Goldberg moves to approve funding up to $10,000 for the SVP Encore Fellow Program. Motion seconded. Motion Passed.

Action: Approved.

Heather Campbell moves to approve the 2013–2014 funding plan. Motion seconded. Motion Passed. Action: Approved.

Staff Authority Revision: Advocacy Letters/Position Statements: Lee Davis: EC discussed at the EC retreat to allow the Executive Director and his staff to approve certain advocacy requests without first having the approval of council and/or the president. This would involve low risk low involvement issues.

The Executive Director, or his or her delegate, may approve advocacy positions that are either requested through a majority vote of a committee and communicated through the committee chair or designated member or initiated through

the Executive Director. This authority does not obligate any party to act to approve.

If approved, signature of the Executive Director or delegate is binding upon the organization.

Executive Council retains the ability to withdraw such advocacy decisions.

The Executive Director or delegate shall communicate approved or denied positions to the President, Secretary and appropriate committee chair within five business days after the action is taken.

If a position is denied or requested to be changed, committees retain the right to appeal to Executive Council.

Motion by Judith Baker to approve the Mazamas Policy and Procedure Advocacy Positions. Motion seconded.

Motion Passed. Action: Approved.

Coal Train Letter.

Conservation Committee requests that the Executive Council approve the Mazamas submitting a letter to the Army Corps of Engineers commenting

on the EIS for the Millennium Bulk Terminals and Port of Morrow. Sojo Hendrix moves to approve the coal train letters with the change of adding the Mazamas mission to the letters and deleting the first paragraph of the letter to Governor Kitzhaber. Motion seconded.

Motion Passed. Action: Approved.

Rescue Insurance Policy Revision: Lee Davis. The Rescue Insurance P&P was updated to reflect the changes from $3,000 limit to a $5,000 limit. Motion

by Sojo Hendrix to approve the change in wording to reflect the benefit increase from $3,000 to $5,000. Motion seconded.

Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Staff Goals: Lee Davis.

Discussion of fiscal year 2013– 2014 staff goals continued until the December meeting.

Meeting adjourned at 8:25 p.m.

Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday December 10, 2013 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

Membership Report October 2013 Applications for membership:.................................................29 Ron Benfield–Mt. Adams John Bouchard–Shivling Krista Collins–Mt. St. Helens Bruce Copeland–Mt. St. Helens Amanda Crochet–Mt. Thielsen Conor Davidson–Mt. St. Helens Jay DeVoe–Mt. Shasta Kate Esposito–Mt. St. Helens Forest Fogarty–Old Snowy Gretchen Guyer–Mt. Adams Buddy Hanrahan–Middle Sister Robin Kapela–Mt. Rainier Drew Lesch-Wragge–Mt. Adams Meggan Low–South Sister Tanja Lux–Mt. St. Helens

Yuming Ma–Tai Bai Mtn, China Lucas Manfield–South Sister Glen Martens–Mt. St. Helens Geoff Melly–Mt. Ruth Sam Reinkensmeyer–Mt. St. Helens Lizzie Rubado–Mt. Adams Dan Rubado–Mt. Adams John Sanders–Mt. Hood John Shatzer–Mt. St. Helens Jason Skipton–Mt. St. Helens Reding Stacey–Mt. St. Helens Allison Tigard–Mt. Whitney Shannon Wagner–South Sister Ben Yang–Mt. Jefferson

Reinstatements:.........................................................................1 Pam Otley (1996)

TOTAL MEMBERSHIP October 31, 2013:.............................................................. 3,423 October 31, 2012:.............................................................. 3,295 December 2013—31

Mazamas® 527 SE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 97215 www.mazamas.org ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

Ice Comp Fun at Portland Rock Gym Results Men: 1st Place—Phil King 2nd Place—Todd Eddie 3rd Place—Tim Stabio Women: 1st Place—Amory Cervarich 2nd Place—Katie Mills 3rd Place—Heather Campbell Second place winner, Mazama member Todd Eddie getting it done. Photo: Andrew Holman.

Mazama Periodical Postage Paid in Portland, Oregon