November Mazama Magazine

NOVEMBER 2016 • VOL. 98 | NO.11

PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF POSSIBILITY PORTLAND ICE COMP REFLECTING ON MT. STUART’S WEST RIDGE PORTLAND ALPINE FESTIVAL: SCHEDULE & TICKET INFORMATION

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Contact Us MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER | 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 | 503-227-2345 | adventure@mazamas.org | Center Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE | 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 | 503-272-9214 | Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon

Mazama Staff LEE DAVIS • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM • Marketing & Communications Director• sarah@mazamas.org ADAM BAYLOR • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER • Membership & Development Coordinator • laura@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org MATTIE COURTRIGHT •Marketing & Events Coordinator• mattie@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK • Finance & Office Coordinator• renee@mazamas.org

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: mazama.ads@ mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Publications Committee

Committee Chair: publications@mazamas.org Committee Members: Sue Griffith, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Wendy Marshall, and Michael Vincerra. (publications_group@mazamas.org) Cover: Katie Mills taking a stroll on Crossover Ledge of the Black Dagger, one of the many stellar routes on The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado. Photo: Jed Brown.

Above: Bianca Pyko takes a selfie on Acker Rock.

Feature Articles Portland Alpine Fest Feature: Meet the Athletes, p. 6–17 Geeking Out on Mountains: Colin Haley, p. 6 BCEP Leads to the Arrigetch Peaks: Katie Mills, p. 8 Climbing Life: Scott Bennett, p. 14 Prevention and Recovery for Climbers: Brad Farra, p. 16 Exploring the World of Fast-Packing: Willie McBride, p. 18 Pushing the Boundaries of Possibility: Christof Teuscher, p. 20 Shop for a Cause: Mazama Mountain Science School, p. 10 Portland Ice Comp at PRG, p. 24 Reflections on the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart, p. 26

Monthly Columns

Executive Director's Report, p. 4 Evening Travel Programs, p. 22 Kids Corner, p. 30 Adventurous Young Mazamas, p. 31 Classic Mazamas, p. 32 Successful Climbers, p. 34 Outings, p. 36 Membership Report, p. 38 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 39 Mazama Lodge, p. 40 Trail Trips, p. 42 Executive Council, p. 44

ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 37 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 42 Centered in Motion, p. 34 Classifieds, p. 40 Climb Max Mountaineering, p.22 Embark Adventures, p. 43 Green Trails Maps, p. 45 Montbell, p. 2 Mountain Hardwear, p. 26 Mountain Shop, p. 32 Next Adventure, p. 17 Oregon Mountain Community, p.41 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 42 Tracey Andrews Acupuncture, p. 40

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising NOVEMBER 2016 3

FROM THE

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

A SUMMIT FOR EVERYONE

W

hat is it about the mountains that keeps us coming back? It’s a question worth asking now and then, so we can remember what we share in common and explore what makes our own way through the peaks unique.

That is the purpose of 2016 Portland Alpine Fest (PAF). Starting on November 15, we celebrate the culture of the mountains: the diverse experiences and motivations that drive us all to love them.

With valuable clinics and seminars, a robust speaker series, and the Northwest Sustainable Climbing Conference, Alpine Fest is growing and evolving to be more fun and better reflect our whole mountain community. And this year, The Summit, the festival’s biggest night on Nov. 19, will be held in an outstanding new venue: the historic Revolution Hall with its easy access, quirky Portland-vibe, and lots of food and beverages options available on site.

Mazamas are drawn to the challenges of wilderness, and the mountains offer plenty of those. This year’s festival has a feast of opportunities to help you meet the technical, physical, and even mental challenges that await you in the mountains: seminars on navigation, nutrition, fitness, alpine travel, climbing technique, and more.

In addition to clinics and seminars, we bring you the great adventurers themselves, to share the challenges they have faced recently and their plans for the future: with Inquisition of the Arrigetch,

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our own Katie Mills, Nick Pappas and Todd Torres will recount their Mazamafunded expedition to northern Alaska. Scott Bennett presents Into the Karakoram: an epic climbing exploration of Pakistan with Graham Zimmerman and the great Steven Swenson. Willie McBride, Brian Donnelly, and Nick Triolo offer True Motivation: a slideshow account of their intense three-day, 75 mile “fastpack” of the Cordillera Huayhuash circuit in Peru. And Arc’teryx pro climber Angela VanWiemeersch will recount her life of alpine adventure with A Gypsy’s Life in the Mountains.

And on the big night of The Summit, our keynote speakers will present their own adventures from the past season.

Renowned sport climber Sasha DiGiulian, the first American woman to climb at 5.14d, will tell of her recent first ascent of Pedra Riscada, one of the largest big walls in Brazil at a stunning 2,132 feet and the sobering difficulty of 5.13c.

And from Colin Haley we will hear the story of the Torre Traverse, which links the four major peaks of Peru’s famous Cerro Torre skyline with 7,200 feet of climbing. The challenge of this alpine enchainment was long pursued by modern climbers, but never met until

That is the purpose of 2016 Portland Alpine Fest (PAF). Starting on November 15, we celebrate the culture of the mountains: the diverse experiences and motivations that drive us all to love them.

Colin and Rolando Garibotti pulled it off with a four-day push in 2008. At The Summit, Colin will recount for us the story of repeating that remarkable achievement last summer with Alex Honnold, but this time completing it in a mere 31 hours.

For some of us, the mountains bring history alive in a way that no other environment ever can. That first ascent may have happened long ago, but to climb the route ourselves, or even just to stand and look up at an iconic alpine face and to know the stories of those who climbed it is to taste the adventure of the past in a way that no book or museum visit can duplicate. And mountain history gets the royal treatment at this year’s Alpine Fest. We bring you not one but TWO film debuts on major figures of climbing history. One of those figures is a man, and the other is a rock.

The man in question is the man: Fred Beckey, whose fame and influence in the history of American mountaineering cannot be overstated. We will feature the extended trailer of Dirtbag, a new film recounting the life of this colorful,

THE SUMMIT: An Evening with Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley.

Tickets to The Summit are just $25 until Nov. 11.

Nov. 19, 5:30–10:30 p.m. at Revolution Hall (1300 SE Stark Street)

PAFterparty: The PAFterparty will follow The Summit at Base Camp Brewing Company, a short walk from Revolution Hall. All Summit ticket holders are welcome to attend. 10:30 p.m.–2 a.m. at Base

Camp Brewing Company

complex figure at The Summit on Nov. 19.

And the rock is none other than majestic Beacon Rock, a spectacular local crag with an extraordinary story.

In its world premiere showing on Nov. 17, Beacon Rock: Then and Now outlines the history of this Columbia Gorge treasure with the stories of three important, much-loved routes.

Portland Alpine Festival culminates with The Summit on the evening Saturday, November 19. At The Summit, in addition to hearing from our excellent speakers, you can also shop for your favorite climber while helping to support an excellent local cause. There’s an amazing silent auction with thousands of dollars in products from our sponsors.

This year the auction supports the Mazama Mountain Science School (MMSS), which aims next year to bring more than 600 fifth graders up to the mountains to learn about and experience the mountain environment firsthand. We estimate that more than 85 percent of the kids that will attend MMSS in 2017 live in Portland but have never been to the mountain before. What a great way to make sure that like us, the next generation keeps coming back to the mountains.

We’ll see you at The Summit!

Lee Davis, Executive Director

Portland Alpine Festival Schedule

Portland Ice Comp: Want to test out your ice climbing skills?

It’s that time of year again … Time to go head to head with some of the best climbers in the area. You never know who might come out on top!

5–10 p.m. at Portland Rock Gym

Tickets & Full Schedule: portlandalpinefest.org

PAF Speaker Series Schedule Inquisition of the Arrigetch. Katie Mills, Todd Torres, Nick Pappas.

Nov. 15, 7–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center Into the Karakorum. Scott Bennett.

Nov. 16, 7–9 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center True Motivation: Fast-packing the Cordillera Huayhuash.

Brian Donnelly, Wilie McBride, and Nick Triolo.

Nov. 16, 7–9 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company

A Gypsy’s Life in the Mountains. Angela VanWiemeersch.

Nov. 17, 7–9 p.m. at Arc'teryx Portland Beacon Rock: Then & Now.

Nov. 17, 7–9 p.m. at Patagonia Portland Avalanche Awareness & Trip Planning. Angela VanWiemeersch.

Nov. 17, 6–9 p.m. at the Mountain Shop

Fail Often to Succeed Sooner. Christof Teuscher.

Nov. 18, 6:30–8:30 p.m. at Evolution Healthcare & Fitness

Featured Clinics & Seminars Training For Weekend Warriors: John Frieh; Nov. 16, 1–4 p.m. at the

Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC)

Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing: John Frieh; Nov. 16,

8–11 a.m. at the MMC

Big Wall Techniques: Scott Bennett; Nov. 16, 8–11 a.m. at the

Portland Rock Gym

Performance Nutrition: Eating your Way to Better Climbing:

Alex Borsuk; Nov. 17, 12–1 p.m. at Evolution Healthcare & Fitness Training for Alpine Climbing: Brad Farra; Nov. 17, 8–11 a.m. at

Evolution Healthcare & Fitness

Beyond Waterfalls: Colin Haley; Nov. 19, 1–4 p.m. at the MMC

NOVEMBER 2016 5

Geeking Out on Mountains Interview with Colin Haley. Colin credits most of his success in climbing to this early apprenticeship in the most rugged mountains available in the Lower 48. He strives to maintain a relatively high level in every discipline of climbing, from bouldering, to El Cap routes, COLIN HALEY'S SCHEDULE to highly-technical alpinism, to high-altitude slogging. While Seattle is still technically his PPMoving Fast in 5th Class Terrain (Clinic) Nov. 18, 9 a.m.– home, he spends much more time in his three noon at the MMC (Full!) favorite towns on three separate continents: PPBeyond Waterfalls (Clinic) Nov. 18, 1–4 p.m. at the MMC El Chaltén, Argentina, Squamish, BC, and PPBeyond Waterfalls (Clinic) Nov. 19, 9 a.m.–noon at the MMC Chamonix, France. By Joe Fox. Can you pinpoint a moment perhaps in time or in your own thinking about the sport of mountaineering, when you took a conscious step away from being a hobbyist and toward being a true professional, expert, master?

Pretty much ever since I was 12, 13, 14 years old I wanted to make climbing my life and I wanted to raise my skills as high as I could and do the hardest climbs I could. It’s not like I was a climber for a long time who wasn’t ambitious, and then all of the sudden decided “ohh, I’m gonna start taking this seriously.” I’ve always been ambitious with climbing, it’s not something that happened at any one point.

My relationship with climbing, in terms of what it means to me and how seriously I take it has pretty much always been the same.

How did you get into it so early?

I’ve been backpacking and skiing and backcountry skiing and all that stuff since I was super young. Like I have no memory of learning how to ski, for instance. So I’ve always been doing stuff in the mountains. And then around when I was 10 years old my dad started taking my brother and I mountaineering.

How do you regard your own mortality? Do you think about death, given the extreme risks involved in this sport?

Yeah, I do. I’ve had a lot of friends and climbing partners who have died.

Some of them quite close, people I’ve 6 MAZAMAS

PPSki Mountaineering: Mixing Skis with Ice Axes climbed with a (Seminar) Nov. 19, 12:30–2 p.m. at the Mountain Shop lot, and some PPThe Summit: An Evening with Colin Haley & Sasha of them just DiGiulian, Nov. 19, 5–10 p.m. at Revolution Hall acquaintances.

And I think it would be dedicated my life to climbing mountains, delusional to doing something that puts me in a place do the type of climbing that I do, with where I feel really challenged and really the frequency that I do it, and not realize excited about the goal, is going to of that that inherently exposes me to a lot course be a different sort of scenario of risks in the mountains, regardless than someone who has much less of how careful I am and how smart of climbing experience. But I think that the decisions I make. I mean, I accept that. general search for this challenge, and Everyone accepts risk at some level this intensity of experience in an extreme for the climbing they do. I really don’t environment, is the same whether it’s want to die climbing. I’d like to live to a beginner going up The Tooth, or me get old. And so I do everything I can trying to solo the Infinite Spur. to minimize those risks, which is of course a balance with trying to achieve the things you want to do. But I know there’s a possibility that I would die in the mountains. And I accept that. Someone who claims otherwise is not being realistic and conscious.

What motivates a climb like your remarkable recent free solo, 12 hour and 29 minute, ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker in Alaska?

Well, I had been scheming to solo the Infinite Spur for at least five years.

Climbing it with Rob Smith, beforehand, kind of confirmed for me that it was something that I wanted to do. But ... I don’t really think that deciding to solo the Infinite Spur has any great difference in motivation from anyone going and climbing mountains. Because I’ve

There are a lot of different esoteric fields of knowledge that help the mountaineer’s lifestyle. What do you geek out on the most? What’s the “shop talk” conversation that you could have with any climber in the world, no problem?

Hmm ... tons. I’m a total geek in general. And I can say very confidently that that aspect of alpinism, the fact that there’s such a mental side to it, and such a geeky side to it, in terms of logistics and scheming how to go about things, is definitely one of the biggest reasons why I like alpine climbing. It’s not just running a hundred meter dash, or sport climbing, which are very distilled athletic activities. But it also has this very big mental component to it. It’s a very big part of why I like climbing mountains.

Colin Haley, Dolent Traverse. Photo: Dave Searle

In terms of what I like geeking out on?

Tons of things. Everything from how to train efficiently, to what to eat while on a climb, to how to use your stove in the most fuel efficient way possible, to how to make your gear lighter, to how to use different belay techniques to be more efficient. I mean, the list could go on and on and on. But everything from using knowledge of chemistry, to physics, to physiology.

What’s something that you’ve been turned onto recently or learned recently that has helped you?

I mean this will get pretty geeky pretty fast. But have you used isobutane stoves much in cold weather?

Umm ... yes not with a lot of luck, but ...

Yeah, they don’t work that well in the cold, because of pv=nrt—you know, decreasing pressure in the canister causes the canister to get colder, which lowers the pressure even more, and, you know, your stove just stops working very well.

About 20 years ago, the canisters that we would get for these kinds of stoves were pure isobutene, and then about 20 years ago or 15 years ago, they started making them a mix of isobutane and

propane. And the reason they do that is because propane has a higher vapor pressure than butane. So it creates more pressure in the canister and helps the stove function better in cold weather.

But they can’t make it all propane because then there would be too much pressure in the canister when it’s warm out, and you would risk having the canister explode. And so it’s this balance.

But one thing you might have noticed sometimes is you put a fresh canister on the stove, and it works really well for a while, and then all of the sudden it starts working really poorly. It’s not like this slow gradual taper, it just sort of falls off a cliff at some point. And I just recently learned why, and it’s because when the canister is sitting upright, the propane is mostly in a gaseous form at the top of the canister, and the butane is mostly in a liquid form at the bottom of the canister, and so basically you burn off all the propane first, and then all of the sudden the pressure inside the canister drops because it’s mostly butane that’s left.

Wow, and can you mitigate that effect by shaking the canister up, or something like that?

Umm, shaking it up wouldn’t work, but

that is why turning the canister upside down can be helpful. Which I had heard years ago, and I had tried turning the canister upside down, and I was like well, it doesn’t really seem to get much better, so I thought that must be wrong. And that’s because when the canister is full, having it upside down or right side up won’t really make much of any difference, but having it upside down should theoretically make a difference over the longevity of the canister because when it’s upside down you’re mostly exiting butane out of the canister because it’s in liquid sitting at the bottom, and the propane higher up is maintaining that pressure inside the canister to help push the butane out, and so by turning the canister upside down you’re not getting rid of the propane straight away, you’re keeping it in the canister for longer. I told it would get geeky fast, so ...

Wow. Yeah, I love it. I love it. That’s great.

But that’s something that I learned recently, that I thought was very interesting, and I thought could have a positive effect on my ability to climb mountains. continued on page 9 NOVEMBER 2016 7

BCEP Leads to the Arrigetch Peaks Interview with Katie Mills, mechanical engineer and peak bagger. Katie fondly remembers the old days when there used to be an off season. Now the off season consists of the week between rock climbing in Red Rocks for Thanksgiving and hitting up the Bozeman Ice Fest the next weekend. By Kevin Machtelinckx What made you join Mazamas and start the Basic Education Climbing Program (BCEP) in 2006? Did you continue with the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) as well?

I moved up here from Louisiana after Hurricane Katrina destroyed my apartment. Like everyone else who moves here, I wanted to climb the iconic Mt. Hood staring in my face every day, but I also wanted to do it safely so I asked around and people told me about BCEP. I’m the kind of person who learns things by taking a class and can’t teach myself anything. So BCEP was perfect. After BCEP I climbed for a year, got some more experience, then went back and took ICS. Was there a defining moment in your early climbing career that stands out to you as one that ‘sealed the deal’ on climbing?

I knew as soon as I climbed my first mountain, Mt. Hood. I was so giddy with happiness after doing the climb that I couldn’t sleep the following night. I had never planned on becoming a technical climber though. In ICS, I shied away from rock climbing and proclaimed it too dangerous. Scrambling and snow slogs were for me! But five years after BCEP, I had climbed all of the major mountains by their nontechnical routes, and there was nothing else to do, so learning the technical climbing skills was the logical next step.

You and your team received the Bob Wilson Grant in 2015 for a 2016 expedition to the Arrigetch Peaks in Alaska. Can you talk about the experience of putting together and organizing an expedition of such scale? How did it differ from your other trips in terms of logistics?

I had attempted Aconcagua with two friends on a previous expedition, but I wasn’t the leader so I had all the logistics handed to me and was unable to appreciate what being a leader entails.

All of the gear was carried on mule to 8 MAZAMAS

basecamp so weight was less of an issue. For the Arrigetch trip everything depended on me. From coordinating flights and figuring out which lake I wanted the bush plane to land us on, to deciding which valleys and mountains to hedge our best bets on, to helping my team decide which gear to take.

Organizing food you have to carry on your back for 24 days is also a very big task (I took 80 granola bars, and that was just lunch!), not to mention the fact you have to fit it all into bear containers. I also researched every AAJ journal entry ever concerning the Arrigetch back to 1965.

What advice do you have for people who would like to make the jump from mountaineering locally to expeditionstyle climbing?

Getting mentally used to the remoteness of alpine climbing and having to be self-sufficient is key. Practice climbing alpine rock because it is very different from cragging, especially when you’re out for weeks at a time. I think routes on Mt. Stuart are an excellent training ground because it is so big you really have to practice your navigation, routefinding, and multipitch ropework skills. But sadly if you want to climb over 5.8 you have to go cragging too! Get your trad skills dialed in by crack climbing at places like Trout Creek or Indian Creek, which is what I did all year before the trip, and is the only reason I was able to succeed on the FA we did. For remote places, I recommend two-way texters over satellite phones. Way cheaper and lighter too.

You’ve climbed on some women’s only teams. Can you talk about the significance of this? What does it mean to you and why is it important?

Often when women go out climbing with men, the man feels societal pressure that he has to ‘lead’. Even if the woman is more skilled, he may be braver. I’m not one to arm wrestle over a lead and

INQUISITION OF THE ARRIGETCH (SPEAKER SERIES): Nov. 15 at 7 p.m. at the will gladly hand it over. But when I’m climbing with only women, it’s nice to not have those pressures and stereotypes.

You just woman-up or proudly watch your friend woman-up and get it done.

Don’t get me wrong, I know quite a few women who will slap that lead out of a man’s hands cuz they want it and I admire the hell out of them, but not all of us are that assertive.

There are, undoubtedly, a lot of engineers and other science-based professionals that make up the climbing community, including yourself. The engineering mindset can have many advantages out in the mountains. Can you think of any disadvantages?

I think the only reason I am a good alpinist is because I am excellent at problem solving, which is also why I’m an engineer. Sometimes I do miss the colorful artsy people that are less common in the climbing/engineering world. Perhaps a disadvantage of being an engineer is being data driven, focused on the summit/pushing the grade/accomplishing an achievement and missing out on the more subtle rewards, like appreciating the beauty of the approach hike or the silly banter with your teammates when you epically fail. For me, who I climb with is more important than what I climb. I’d rather climb something easy with someone I know I am going to form a lasting friendship with than have a random ropegun stranger I have nothing in common with get me up something awesome. But to each their own! You gotta do what makes you personally happy because that is the point.

MMC

Katie Mills at Indian Creek (Utah). Photo: Cigdem Milobinski

Most outstanding memory of your climbing career so far?

One of my favorites is climbing the Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk with Rebecca Madore in 2014. We were planning on climbing a much more chill route on the Grand Teton, but it was snowing so we chose the Incredible Hulk instead. It was my first climb where we

didn’t know if we could pull it off. So we had to push ourselves to do it. The feeling of accomplishment after that was amazing. "Send of the Century," I called it!

Future goals or expeditions?

Ruth Gorge girl-power mixed/ice climbing with Rebecca in the spring!

I’d also like to go back to the Arrigetch

because I saw some pretty stunning unclimbed peaks that I was unable to attempt because I did not have the proper equipment. It seems not a lot of people venture back there a second time, but I definitely want to go back as an experienced veteran instead of a floundering first-timer!

Haley, continued from page 7 So, did you discover that when talking to somebody else, or did you just read about that?

I discovered that when talking to somebody else. There’s a guy who I met because he’s in the Alpine Mentors Pacific Northwest Program and I volunteered a couple days for that, a couple of years ago. His name is Alex. He’s doing a PhD in some field of chemistry and we were talking about this stuff, and he explained that to me.

On bringing his iPod shuffle up the Infinite Spur ...

I don’t listen to music when I’m doing properly technical climbing. At that point I want to hear, you know, how my crampons sound when I’m putting them on a hold, and all these little things. But when I’m doing less technical climbing like just pounding up a 50 degree ice slope, or just walking up a glacier, or ski

touring or something, I love listening to music. And I feel that if I’m listening to music, I can be putting out a really high cardio effort and it doesn’t feel as much like an effort, it’s just so much fun.

What are you listening to on those trips? What is some of your “high energy” music?

A few examples of some of the artists that are on the Shuffle, some of it’s guitar like Tool and Alice in Chains, some of it’s electronic stuff like Sub Focus and Knife Party, some of it’s dark in between stuff like Nine Inch Nails, some of its techno, some of its dubstep, some of it’s drum and bass, some of it’s metal, some of it’s grunge.

Do you ever think of doing a “Snow Slog Playlist” a la Barack Obama?

Haha Not really. But yeah I could some time. That’d be a cool idea. Maybe I should. I’ll make a blog post about it.

On his goals for his presentation at next month’s Portland Alpine Fest?

My general guideline is that I try to put together a slide show that I know I would be psyched to watch. So probably, I think that most of the people at my slideshows whether they are beginners or not will enjoy it, but I think the people that like my slideshows the most are the ones who are like me - climbers who are fully in the grips of the alpine climbing addiction, just can’t get enough, and are super excited about it and dream of all these things they want to do. Yeah, I think my slideshow is catered more to them than anyone else.

I love giving slideshows in the Northwest because it’s my home turf as a person, and also because the audience is full of people that really love the mountains, and really know the mountains, and that just makes for a fun energy.

NOVEMBER 2016 9

D N A L T POR T S E F E N ALPI

presented by

hosted by

Experience the soaring highs and SOULTESTING LOWS of the extreme world of climbing as you hear from top level athletes who are regularly challenging the limits of human ability. The Portland Alpine Fest allows you to explore the vertical arena through clinics, seminars, a speaker series, and more.

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SHOP FOR A CAUSE! Support the Mazama Mountain Science School The silent auction at The Summit on Nov. 19 at Revolution Hall will include outdoor gear and experiences and comes at the perfect time for holiday shopping.

Look for the silent auction preview on Nov. 10. Review the items, determine what you want to go home with, and show up at The Summit ready to bid!

Proceeds go to support the Mazama Mountain Science School which provides an outdoor learning opportunity for 5th grade students at the base of Mt. Hood. The program is growing from 150 kids in 2016 to 600 kids in 2017. Help us make Mazama Mountain Science School a success!

POutdoor P Gear PExperiences P PAll P to support a great cause PGet P your ticket to The Summit today and get ready to bid!

THE SUMMIT

An Evening with Sasha DiGiulian & Colin Haley

Experience an evening of exploration, pushing boundaries, and denying the existence of limits as you hear from two athletes who are out there challenging what is possible on a daily basis.

Look forward to:

PP Exciting speakers (learn more about Colin Haley on page 6) PP Extended Trailer of Dirtbag and special appearance by FRED BECKEY PP Silent Auction to support the Mazama Mountain Science School PP PAF Photo of the Year Contest Winners PP Vendor Fair with great new gear to preview PP Social Time

TICKETS: portlandalpinefest.org NOVEMBER 2016 11

Photo: Blake Herrington

Climbing Life Interview with Scott Bennett. With first ascents, from Alaska to the Waddington range, the Cascades to Patagonia, Scott has established himself as one of the most active alpinists of his generation. By Joe Fox. You said you were climbing yesterday?

What was going on? Where were you guys?

Yesterday, I was kind of unintentionally climbing. We went for a ridge runscramble. My friend, John Frederick, and I went up to Red Peak which is in Summit County, kinda near Vale in the mountains of Colorado. And scrambled up the peak, which is I think low 13-er, and tried to traverse this long ridge of towers and buttresses and such, and it was one of the chossiest things either of us has ever been on. Actually John grew up in Washington, so he’s climbed a bunch in the Cascades, and he was like this is Cascades-quality choss up here. So, we got pretty scared running around in running shoes for a while. And eventually found a way to bale off it down some gully. We meant to go swing tools for the first time of the season, but it was too hot. It was like 80 degrees in Denver.

Can you pinpoint a moment perhaps in time or in your own thinking about the sport of mountaineering, where you took a conscious step away from being a hobbyist and toward being a true professional, expert, master?

That's a really good question. The question of mentality, of intention with it. The moment for me where I started to 12 MAZAMAS

think of myself as accomplished, or more capable, as someone who had a unique skill set. It was probably my first trip to Patagonia, which was in January of 2011.

I went into that trip and I had never done any first ascents. I had never set foot onto a glacier. I grew up in the Midwest and I learned to climb mostly in Colorado and Utah, in warm dry places. I hadn't really ice climbed at all. But a climbing partner, Blake Harrington, who is another Northwest guy, we rock climbed a bunch in Denver, in Colorado that year, and he suggested we go. And obviously I was pretty intimidated by that idea.

But he convinced me it was a good idea and so we went down there. And, I don't know, just right away felt at home there, in those wild big granite mountains, sticking up through the glaciers. The photos had seemed really intimidating, but when we actually got there it just felt like rock climbing, which is what I'd been doing anyway. So that was the moment for me, where I was like, “I'm really comfortable in this environment."

And I know not everyone is or can be, so I think I have something unique going for me here that I should really focus on. So that trip was the first of a whole series of more alpine-focused expeditions for me. Going to back to Patagonia the next

year, and going to Alaska the next year, going to the Waddington Range in British Columbia. And at that point my climbing really moved away from just going on a road trip to Indian Creek ... which is super fun—I'm going there next week actually—it's something I still love doing.

But it's more of a social, recreation thing, and when I think of making progress in my own climbing, it's expeditions, it's big trips, it's first ascents, and something with an exploratory element as well. So, yeah, that first trip to Patagonia opened up my eyes, I guess, to the fact that this was possible and that I had a lot of the skills necessary and I had the right kind of desire and boldness to go do those things. That's really when my focus shifted.

On where he learned to climb...

I grew up in Michigan. And I did learn to climb when I was in college in Ohio.

I was involved with the outdoor club at my little liberal arts school in rural Ohio.

And there wasn't much to do, so I was in the outdoor club, to go on backpacking trips, and we would do weekly trips, also, to a makeshift climbing tower that this farmer had built in his field, fifteen minutes away from campus. So we would go there every week and climb indoors, in what looked like a silo, it wasn't actually a

SCOTT BENNETT'S SCHEDULE PPAlpine Fast & Light (Clinic) Nov. 16, 8–11 a.m. at PRG (FULL) PPIntermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) Nov. 16, 1–4 p.m. at the MMC PPInto the Karakorum (Clinic) Nov. 16, 7 p.m. at the MMC PPIntro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) Nov. 17, 6–9 p.m. at the MMC (FULL) PPBig Wall Techniques, Nov. 18, 8–11 a.m. at PRG

grain silo, but that's sort of what it looked like. And he had a mix of actual gym handholds, and some were just rocks and pieces of wood that were bolted onto the walls. It wasn't a public gym. The farmer would let us climb there; the guy who owned it, he was also a climber, and he gave us keys for it and let us climb there.

And, we'd go in the winter and it wasn't heated. It had a propane heater, but it wouldn't be on. So we'd have to go and start the generator, and start the propane heater, and get the lights turned on and get it heating up, before we could start climbing. So it actually, in hindsight, was good preparation for alpine climbing.

Because you would frequently get “the screaming barfies” on your first climb of the day. Because it would just be Ohio in January. It would be freezing.

Wow. The Ohio farmer who converts a grain silo into a climbing gym. Sounds like an interesting character.

Yeah, totally. Tom is his name. I've been meaning to climb with him again. I know he comes out to Vegas pretty often to climb at Red Rocks. So I'll have to get in touch with him and climb with him now, because it's been, what, 9 years, 10 years since I graduated from college? So I haven't seen him in a while.

So for kind of all four years of college

we climbed there, and then my senior year, me and the few other people that were really into climbing, we found a professor that had at one point climbed at The Gunks, and had been a climber in his youth, and still had a trad rack, and we convinced him to take us out climbing at the New River Gorge. And that was the first time I went outside.

And he taught us how to place hexes, and whatever. This was like easy cracks at the New River Gorge. But it really progressed super quickly for me from there. Because this was my last year of college and I was climbing outside for the first time, but then within a couple years, I was climbing, almost full time. I mean I wasn't doing anything else. Working, waiting tables so I could make enough money to pay rent and buy food, and just climbing a 100% of the remainder of the time. I had moved out to Colorado at that point.

So the progress came really quickly. In terms of getting out to Yosemite and climbing on El Cap, probably, within a year of first climbing outdoors.

My next question is a little bit darker.

But I did all the interviews last year for the Alpine Fest as well. And among the folks I interviewed barely a year ago was the late, great Scott Adamson.

Scott was a truly brilliant climber

and a great friend to the Mazamas who was lost this past season in the mountains of Pakistan. And as I was sitting down to make some new questions for this year and trying to figure out which of the old questions would still work, I felt particularly focused on risk, and in particular the risk of death in alpine climbing. And just the fragility of human life, you know? I still have the audio recording of Scott talking about how he took a 100 foot whipper in the dark and thought he was going to die, you know what I mean? And then he did. And it's just kind of, hard to stomach. And I was just wondering how you regard your own mortality. Do you think about death, since you've taken it to this next level?

You know, it might be a self-protective thing, but I don't really think about my death in the mountains. I mean, intellectually I know that there are certainly a lot of risks with what we do. But, yeah, the possibility of my own death isn't something I am emotionally connected to. It doesn't seem vivid. I don't have nightmares or anything. But what I do think a lot about is friends dying in the mountains, because that's

continued on next page NOVEMBER 2016 13

Bennett, continued from previous page happened to me. And it sucks. I guess my own safety feels like it's in my control. I mean, obviously, it's not fully in my control. If I'm climbing in the Karakoram underneath a serac, you know? That's an objective hazard. But that's something I can deal with and mitigate. But friends dying ... Kyle and Scott were friends. I didn't climb with either of those guys, but I certainly knew them and respected them. And they were heroes of mine, and friends as well. That's something that I do worry about. And again, I guess maybe from a self-protective standpoint, I think I've intentionally kept my circle of really close climbing partners fairly small. Like I really only do big trips with a handful of people, really two or three actually. And folks that, obviously, whose judgment I trust 100%. So I can feel pretty good about them going out on trips without me, that they're going to come back safely. Because that's the fear that gets to me the most, I think, is having friends leave and not come back. I've been lucky enough, that none of my truly close climbing partners or friends has died in the mountains.

But with Kyle and Scott... I was climbing in the Karakoram last summer, which is going to be subject of the slideshow that I give in Portland, is that trip. And we were climbing at the same time as Kyle and Scott, in a different place, in a different valley, but we were well aware that they were over there and we were thinking about them pretty often. And we did actually find out about Scott's big fall and injury while we were in the mountains, at our base camp. We had a sat phone and we 14 MAZAMAS

were in contact with friends back in the States and so we found out about it through them. And it really did kind of color our experience for the remainder of our trip. I think it made us more conservative with what we were willing to do, and just a little wearier. It was a strange season last year, I guess this was 2015, because it was quite warm.

It was unseasonably warm all summer.

The snow was not super well set up. A lot of the ice was coming apart. And I suspect that's what led to their accident last year, the 2015 accident. So those things were in our minds when we were climbing on K6 which was our big objective on that trip.

On big wall speed climbing and it's applications for alpine climbing....

I'll set myself sort of arbitrary goals, whether it's here in Colorado or in Yosemite. Trying to do multiple walls in a short time period or trying to do a specific route really fast. Stuff that can kind of seem silly and arbitrary, but which really forces you to develop a new creative skill set. That you can then apply in the mountains and apply onto bigger routes, where moving fast is necessary to be safe and to actually finish the climb.

There's a local climb here at the wall that's the five pitch route, up the middle of the wall. It's a 5.11, so it's kind of the classic, moderately hard route that people aspire to do. And I've done it a bunch of times, so over the years I've tried to whittle it down to faster and faster and faster. And I'll time it from the base up to the summit, and back down again. And over the course of a couple years, I took my own

personal time from over an hour, like an hour and half, down to now less than half an hour. So I took this climb that most parties would approach as a full day climb, and that in the past I'd approach as, at least, two or three hours if you're moving at a normal pace, and just ruthlessly making it more efficient and dialing in your systems, so you can climb it really fast.

Mountaineering legend, Reinhold Messner, has often been quoted comparing mountaineering to a creative pursuit, and the climber to the artist. Does this idea resonate for you at all in your experience?

I mean definitely, this is something that's been said many times, but doing a first ascent, you know, looking up at a wall, and painting in that line in your mind, “we're gonna link this feature with this feature.” I mean it's partially a logical pursuit. “Ok this crack looks good. This crack over here looks good. We're going to avoid that section because it's got rock.” So there is a very analytical side to that.

But I do think that there's also an aesthetic sense, “this is where the line should go. This is going to be the most rewarding way that we can get up this mountain.” My friends and I often talk about trying the line of strength of the mountain, the proudest line we can find. That obviously has an implicit aesthetic judgment. Part of the reward of climbing is getting down and then drawing that line onto a photo, and being like, “yeah, that's beautiful.

That's something that I created and it's beautiful. It's art.”

...That's something that I created and it's beautiful. It's art.�

Photo: Garrett Grove NOVEMBER 2016 15

TRAINING FOR ALPINE CLIMBING (CLINIC): Nov. 17, 8–11 a.m. at Evolution

Prevention and Recovery for Climbers Interview with Brad Farra, D.C., CCSP, CSCS. Certified Chiropractic Sports Physician. Owner of Evolution Healthcare and Fitness. By Michael Vincerra.

How did you became attracted to sports medicine?

I was in the Navy for 6 1/2 years. I was a helicopter rescue swimmer and EMT, and it definitely spurred my interest in healthcare. I felt like that was definitely a calling for me. I enjoyed every aspect of search and rescue. After I got out of the Navy, I thought "that was the intention the whole time. Let’s get in [the Navy], get an idea of what I might want to do, and earn some college money." Then I started doing my undergraduate degree as pre-med in allopathic medicine, but I quickly realized it wasn’t what I wanted to do. I was irritated when all I ever had was sports injuries, and they had no tools for me. Then somebody gave me some really good advice: "Figure out who you want to work with, what you want to treat, and decide which profession is going to help you get the right toolbox." I quickly realized the Sports Chiropractor has the best toolbox to work on sports injuries and give people tools to take care of themselves.

Your profile indicates that you specialize in “recovery and prevention strategies.” Mountaineers and climbers encounter all types of injuries. Could you explain a little about your strategies in prevention and what makes them unique?

Strictly speaking on a preventive basis, if someone comes to me with absolutely no injury, there are a lot of things that we can do to determine risk and vulnerability for injury. We do movement 16 MAZAMAS

screens, we assess tissue quality, we do orthopedic testing, and a lot of that is looking at movement patterns and figuring where we need to go to minimize risk for injury. For a climber, I’d rather look at the way they squat, the way they move their shoulders, and how they transition from back to neck to shoulders—fundamental movement patterns.

Why look at the squat?

We use the way someone squats to determine their risk and vulnerability to injury. For example, a toddler knows exactly how to squat and it’s a perfect squat every time. But as adults in the 21st century, we sit. All the time. Sitting jacks up the post of your chain and the motor pattern, it shortens the hip flexors, and it turns off the glutes and gets our core weak. Eventually that leads to mobility problems in the upper back and the hips, not allowing us to move properly through a squat. The squat tells me about how they’re moving throughout the day. Then that tells me how they’re going to move up on the mountain for 3,000 feet, and where the breakdown is going to be. It’s amazing how much we can gather by watching somebody move and develop a set of corrective exercises.

Can you explain one of these methods in detail and the benefits it has to your patients?

“Class 4 therapeutic laser, graston technique, soft tissue manipulation, rehab, and nutrition.” A lot of people

think, "I don’t need chiropractics." You’re probably thinking of a chiropractic adjustment or manipulation.

Chiropractic is a profession, not a procedure. I’m looking at the research, taking all the best tools, and helping my patients with the problems they come to me with. So take Graston technique, which is basically an instrument- assisted soft-tissue mobilization technique. It does a phenomenal job of breaking up scar tissue, resetting the nervous system, and bringing fresh blood to the area. I see it being effective for my patients day in and day out. With the research they’ve done, using pre- and post-diagnostic ultrasound, they’ve demonstrated scar-tissue adhesions breaking up and lining-up of tissue fibers, which allows tissues to glide and move.

How does your chiropractic background inform what you do as a Sports Medicine Physician?

Well, that’s interesting. I have a B.S. in Human Biology. I went to a fouryear professional school that mirrors medical school. You spend a couple years in basic sciences, you get into clinical sciences, and continue as your start an internship. I’m reading the same sports science research that everybody else is reading. And because of my scope of practice, I’m able to apply all those tools like another practitioner would, like a physical therapist or a physiatrist would.

At this point in time, 80% of my practice is extremity sports injuries: ankle, knee, hip, wrist, elbow, and shoulders.

What is the most popular injury among climbers?

Medial and lateral epicondylopathy. Their nicknames are "golf elbow" and "tennis elbow." It tends to be a chronic condition, not an acute condition. I also see a lot of pulley and tendon injuries. On fingers, you have the pulley that holds the tendon down. Sometimes, it’s not just the tendon that gets injured from cramping but also the pulley that holds the tendon down.

Sometimes both. I’m able to accelerate the healing process and guide somebody back to sport. That’s really the biggest question: ‘When can I climb again?" If we go back too soon, it’s going to prolong the healing process. Shoulder injuries is the next biggest one. Because the shoulder is such an important part in the way we move. If someone is not moving properly at the shoulder, the elbow takes more of the load, and they end up with epicondilytis. And a lot of the rehab for elbow injuries is shoulder stability and strengthening. So it depends on the specific presentation.

Especially for a lot of the Mazama climbers, it’s about their cardiovascular "motor" and that the core is strong, the hips are strong, and we’re able to deliver the climber to the mountain and not get injured. I like to say that the core allowsyou to transfer power to your extremities. Whether you’re a throwing athlete or a climber that needs to carry a 50 lb. pack up the hill, you need to have a strong core so you don’t lose energy.

Has your own experience as a mountaineer taught you how to prevent sport injuries?

As a strength coach and a climber, I feel it’s a really helpful tool to speak the language of the climber. So that when they tell me, "I was pulling this Gaston and felt a pinch in my elbow ..." I’m able to talk to a climber about what they’re doing and to help them and guide them back sport.

I definitely feel like my experience as a climber gives me a better perspective on what a climber is dealing with and their goals. I enjoy working with motivated people who just want to get back out there and do their thing.

continued on page 17 NOVEMBER 2016 17

TRUE MOTIVATION (SPEAKER SERIES): Nov. 16, 7 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company

Exploring the World of Fast-Packing Interview with Willie McBride, a Portland, Oregon based ultra runner, climber, and ski mountaineer, as well as co-owner/founder, coach, and guide at Wy’east Wolfpack. He loves writing about and sharing his outdoor experiences and enthusiasm with others. By Darrin Gunkel.

Of all your mountain activities, which achievements are you particularly proud?

Traveling to Peru 8 years ago was definitely a highlight. I’d never been among mountains that big in my life.

It was a pretty grand experience to feel extra small. We get to feel small a lot when we get out to local outdoors places, but being in that scale is a different thing for sure. I try to climb Mt. Hood a lot as well, and I’ve been trying to push myself to do it faster and faster. So this year I got it down to 3:22 round trip from Timberline Lodge. So I was pretty proud about that.

How many marathons and ultras have you done?

I don’t have an exact number but dozens, including a couple of hundredmilers, a hundred-and-twenty-miler and the Tahoe 200. But now, I’m really aiming towards self-planned adventures and moving a little bit more away from the racing.

Why move away from racing?

Well, I come from a background of self-planning adventures and being more of a climber and backpacker. So, one, a lot of it just comes naturally and two, I take joy in the process of 18 MAZAMAS

mapping out routes and doing logistical planning, and races already have that taken care of for you. The ultra running community is very supportive, and inclusive, but still in any race there’s a clock hanging over your head. It can cause a lot of anxiety. Certain people can do the distance, but they can’t do it in the allotted time, and they have to stress out about that instead of enjoying the experience. I believe they can achieve these things, but just not in somebody else’s time frame.

How do you motivate?

Just setting your intention. If you really love something and you’re really into it, then hopefully you stay on course. One easy exercise—well, simple, not easy—that we do with clients is we have people stick their arms straight out at their side, at 90 degrees from their body. The goal is to keep your arms straight out, without wavering, for say, seven or eight minutes. And it is terrible! At about three minutes in—or less—your arms are screaming and it’s just terribly uncomfortable, and yet people can make it! So if your mind is screaming at two minutes, but you can make it to eight minutes, what’s the difference? It comes down to mental

strength. Your mind is like any muscle in that if you work it, it gets stronger.

Since starting that in classes a couple of years ago, we’ve had countless people say to us, “You know, this weekend I did this really tough hike, I got to the gnarliest part and it was beating me down, and I thought of that arm thing and it just got easier.” Micro exercises like this that tweak out comfort with discomfort can really reach into all aspects of life.

Advice for somebody thinking about taking up fast-packing?

The only way to fast pack is to get really light gear that costs more. That can be prohibitive. Don’t fall into the trap that it’s a deal breaker. You don’t have to have the lightest of all gear.

You can go a little less light but a little more expensive and a not break your bank. And like anything, start small.

You don’t go from zero miles to an ultra marathon over night, and you don’t go from day trips to week long fast packing trips overnight either. Start with a single night out. That’s all you gotta do.

You don’t have to go super deep. Just get out there and try it out.

You don’t go from zero miles to an ultra marathon over night

NOVEMBER 2016 19

Pushing the Boundaries of Possibility Interview with Christof Teuscher, associate professor in the Department of Electrical and Computer Engineering at Portland State University, investigating next generation computing models and technologies. In his off time he stays busy with photography and ultra running.

By Kevin Machtenlinckx.

They say that when you were a boy growing up in the Swiss Alps, you learned to ski before you learned to walk. Any truth behind that?

Yes. There is some Kodak Super 8 footage out there of me on a pair of wooden skis in the Swiss Alps. I keep falling over and over in the film, but I always seemed to get back up. My mom says that I was relentless.

You only got into trail running in the last three years. Why now?

I sustained a knee injury way back in high school while running down a mountain with some friends. It never really healed properly and that kept me away from running. I thought it was just not meant for me. Then, a few years ago, a friend asked me if I would run a 50k with her. I don’t know why, but I said yes. I had always stayed in shape 20 MAZAMAS

through mountaineering, backpacking and mountain biking, so the few months that I had to train leading up to the race wasn’t as bad as it would be for some.

Still, and I didn’t know it at the time, it isn’t advisable to ramp up to race shape so fast and I sustained injuries during training. I still ended up going through with the race and finished it successfully.

My goal became to do a 100-miler within one year.

Have you competed?

Yes, I’m fairly competitive and signing up for races gives me something to work toward, otherwise it gets to be a bit hard to stay motivated to run long distances week in, week out. Right now I’m focused on long distance mainly due to my age.

You see a lot of younger folks who are physically much stronger than I, but they don’t necessarily have experience or the

mental toughness to deal with tough situations of long distance races, which is why I can still compete.

You’ve recently completed a five peak traverse by climbing South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Hood, trail running between all of them. You’ve also completed the 750-mile Oregon Desert Trail (ODT) this summer, attempting a speed record. Where do these massive goals come from?

I’m not entirely sure, but these goals do give me the chance to learn about myself and where limits are. I find it fascinating to explore the human physical and mental limits. I enjoy the logistics and planning that some of these projects require, too. The ODT, for example, was a two year project. I also like to do things that people think are impossible, not

FAIL OFTEN TO SUCCEED SOONER (SPEAKER SERIES): Nov. 18, 7 p.m. at Evolution

I would say mental toughness is more important than physical condition and is often overlooked. necessarily to prove people wrong, but rather to prove to myself that these things are possible.

Do you find that the way you approach physical undertakings affects how you tackle problems in other aspects of your life?

Absolutely. There are lots of connections. In my research, for example, I like to explore the limits of what technology and computers are able to do. We fail often in academia because we go into projects unsure of what the limits are. We might spend years on a project only to find out there is simply a fundamental theoretical limit. Those who can resist those setbacks will be the most successful, which is the same mindset found in long distance running.

There is undeniably an element of mental toughness required to spend days on end running through the desert. How do you train for that?

I would say mental toughness is more

important than physical condition and is often overlooked. There is a scientificallybased technique called MindfulnessAcceptance-Commitment (MAC) that I use to get me through the tough times during runs. After enough practice, this becomes second nature and the brain automatically switches to this method of thinking when the physical pain starts.

The body actually has a much higher physical limit than we think and, often, the mind is more of the limiting factor.

Your talk will be focused on embracing failures so as to improve.

Can you give us a taste of one of your failures that you will share with us?

At one moment during the ODT, at night, I was searching for a food cache and couldn’t find it. The GPS coordinates were not entirely accurate and I couldn’t remember where it was. I dug up a large part of the 300’ x 300’ square that I was searching but found nothing. I was exhausted, in a lot of pain, and wanted nothing more than to quit. After a long

search I gave up and started walking to the trail, getting out my SPOT device to send a message to my wife telling her to pick me up. All of a sudden, I stumbled upon half of the marker that was left on a bush. I had found a valid reason to quit, but now that reason was taken away. I didn’t know how to feel. There was no one out there to talk this over with but myself. My wife pointed out that I’m not a person that needs a reason to continue.

In that moment, I just didn’t have a good enough reason not to continue. So I kept going.

Easy question ... how do you relax?

I’m restless by nature. Usually an hour in the hot tub is enough. Otherwise I don’t necessarily try to take a week off or anything. Running in itself acts as stress relief. I tried to take a week off from running once and it was a disaster. I’m someone who thrives from always having an activity.

NOVEMBER 2016 21

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS EVERY WEDNESDAYS AT 7 P.M, MID-OCT. THROUGH MID-APRIL AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER.

Low-to-High Africa: An Adventure Presentation Wednesday, Nov. 2 In 2011, Kyle Henning embarked on a solo, human-powered adventure by bicycle and on foot 1,800 miles through Africa—from the lowest point on the continent to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Kyle reflects on the motivations, obsessions, successes, and failures of his younger self on a personal mission through the unknown.

Presentation followed by Q&A. Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance.

22 MAZAMAS

Camino Wednesday, Nov. 9 In April, 2015, Kathy Peterman had this idea: “Wouldn’t it be great to capture some real local Pilgrims pre- and post-Camino” to see how this journey impacts their lives. She put out the word to our Portlandia chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino. Folks were VERY generous with offering to share their stories, so she set out to interview them pre- and post-Camino. Kathy interviewed 11 pilgrims and videotaped their pre-Camino and post-Camino responses. Join us to see this 33 minute video and to have a rich Q & A session with some of the pilgrims from the film.

Portland Alpine Fest—Into the Karakoram Wednesday, Nov. 16 ($12 at the door) Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman have been climbing together for years, from dirtbagging in Yosemite to helicoptering into remote Alaska ranges. With their sights set on the truly big mountains, they enlist the help and mentorship of Steve Swenson, who is perhaps the most successful American alpinist of his generation. On what Steve says might be his final big expedition, the team sets out for Pakistan with massive unclimbed objectives, and the goal of passing the torch of exploratory climbing from one generation to the next.

Holiday—No Program Wednesday, Nov. 23

Perspectives from Patagonia Wednesday, Nov. 30 Rebecca Schob Madore and Brad Farra give an evening presentation to hear about what happens between here and there.

Mazama Climb Awards Every year the Mazamas recognizes climbing accomplishments and gives out climbing awards in various categories. The Climbing Committee is now accepting applications for all climbing awards. All qualifying climbs for these awards must be successful official Mazama climbs.

CLIMBING AWARDS ▶▶ Guardian Peaks: Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. ▶▶ Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister. ▶▶ Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan.

LEADER AWARDS ▶▶ Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks ▶▶ 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.

All qualified applicants are encouraged to apply. Application deadline is Oct. 15. Submit your application (including scanned copies of your summit certificates) online. Login to the Mazama Member section of the website, click on Awards, and then Awards–Climbing.

Take Your Place in Mazama History From stories of climbing and hiking adventures, to conservation and research articles, to stunning photos, we need your contributions to the 2016 Mazama Annual! Each year the Mazamas compiles articles, administrative reports, committee reports, and photographs—consider it our "Mazama Yearbook" —and creates a beautiful book that you'll enjoy reading time and time again. Take your place in Mazama history by contributing your voice and images to this volume. Send content to mazama.annual@mazamas.org by Nov. 15.

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Even the little ones can get in on the fun. Photo: Jacob Raab.

Portland Ice Comp

by Katie Mills

T

he Portland Ice Comp is not really an ice comp or even a mixed comp. It's dry tooling on top rope with rock shoes on. A sport no one does, so it's anyone's game! Anyone can, and everyone who does compete will be guaranteed a good time. The Advanced Snow & Ice Committee generously puts up dry tooling holds on the MMC walls leading up to the comp, so taking a skillbuilder or clinic with one of the PAF athletes will get you some good prior practice.

I've been competing in the Portland Ice Comp at the Portland Rock Gym the past three years, when it became part of the Portland Alpine Fest. It's been around a long time, started by local hardmen ice climbers Marcus Donaldson and John Frieh. They have since turned over the reins, and so the route setting has been up to rock climber and PRG lead route setter Sean Harris. Thanks for all your

24 MAZAMAS

hard work, Sean, and providing us so much fun! I heard a rumor Marcus and John may return to set this year ... fingers crossed!

My first year was great! Nobody knew what was going on, and many great climbers fell off for no reason other than buckling under the pressure. I was able to snag 2nd place due to this, beaten by a rock climber who had only held ice

tools for the first time two hours before.

Women and men competed on the same route, so it was exceptionally hard for us shorties! The best part of the night was having visiting athlete Will Gadd excitedly whisper beta to me during the finals! I took an epic fall and although on top rope still pancaked flat on my back on the ground. What a great way to be humiliated in front of your peers! But it

Photo: Jacob Raab

is all in good fun, and I was happy to have given all my friends a big laugh.

The second year ... well let's go back to the first year. The first year during Will Gadd's exhibition climb, he did a dyno! So the second year there was a dyno in the men's final, which no one completed, but it was fun to watch the attempts— ha ha. Everyone had learned their lessons from the previous year and so brought their A-game. I sadly had been injured two months prior when my climbing partner took a lead fall on top of my head at the gym (use those sandbags, tiny people!) and was in no shape to climb, but drew the #1 spot and went first bravely to show the ladies how it's done! I remember an epic battle between Rebecca Schob Madore and Karin Mullendorf, with Karin barely eeking out a victory one hold above Rebecca.

Last year, everyone really was ready. Todd Torres dressed as PAF Man danced his way to the top with grace and ease and Rebecca was so quick and skillful she beat a professional ice climber by 20 seconds!

You don't need to have ever held an ice tool to compete and have fun—just ask rock climber Nicole Castonguay who competes every year and always makes it to the finals! As alpine climbers, we are so often alone in the mountains, but the Portland Ice Comp brings us together in town where we can all enjoy the camraderie of the wonderful Portland climbing community. We may not have as much local climbing as other mountain towns, but we have the most heart!

Photo: Jeremy Lubkin

NOVEMBER 2016 25

Reflecting on Mt. Stuart’s West Ridge

A Car-to-Car Climb of a Granite Classic Article & Photos by Kevin Machtelinckx

3

a.m. on a Friday morning. The time when dreams are at their deepest and most intricate. The moments in which I’m already on the summit, basking below brilliant topaz skies, having completed pitch after pitch of the most glorious granite my hands have ever crimped. The seconds during which, for reasons I care not to understand, my Swedish, blonde-haired, doe-eyed, ex-model climbing partner hands me a juicy taco-truck burrito and a frothy, chilled pale ale. The worst time for an alarm to go off.

I roll over and flip on the switch to the LED strips in the back of the Honda Element I’m sleeping in. The beer was a figment of my imagination. The Scandinavian beauty from my dream is replaced by a heap of snoring facial hair inches from my face which grunts and frowns as I nudge it away. I am marinated in my own sweat, having overestimated the temperature drop during the night and sleeping in a toowarm sleeping bag. My body aches and I smell terrible already. I’ve slept only a couple hours. Why do I do this?

It is only a few moments before the answer comes to me in two parts. With the first, I find myself happily reunited with the part of my dream that wasn’t fictitious: I actually do have half of a taco-truck burrito left over from dinner that I immediately begin to scarf down.

The burrito is a catalyst for the positive thoughts that rush over me in the next part: I’m about to climb Mt. Stuart’s West Ridge, a route I’ve been looking forward to since the beginning of summer.

It was only a year prior that I had topped out on Mt. Stuart for the first time via the Cascadian Couloir route, a long, non-technical scramble. I distinctly remember being intrigued at the climbers I saw below, on the

west ridge of the mountain, crawling their way slowly toward the summit. It looked like a heinous jumble of jagged pathways and precarious ledges. A navigational nightmare. Below and to my right, on the classic North Ridge route, climbers flaked a rope at the foot of the infamous gendarme, sizing up their foe with equal parts stoke and caution. It was then that I knew the day’s summit success via the Cascadian would not suffice. Stuart had to be dissected from all angles and the West Ridge route would be next.

By 3:40 a.m. my bearded climbing partner, Jordan, and I leave the trailhead and head upward toward Ingalls Pass via a well-marked trail.

Being brothers, Jordan and I have an uncanny ability to communicate without words. We hike by moonlight in silence. The sky above is clear, although I keep looking in a northwest direction as we gain altitude, attempting to glimpse signs of the front forecasted to push into the region later in the day. In the valley, the world is quiet with nothing but a slight breeze to hush the grassy meadows. As we near the pass, a natural funnel for wind, mountain hemlocks emit an eerie whoosh.

The sudden view we are greeted with

at the top of Ingalls Pass stops us in our tracks. Mt. Stuart’s behemoth sawblade silhouette cuts a menacing line across the sky. The south face is a lawless mix of dark razorblade ridges paralleled by couloirs of weathered boulders jettisoned by the mountain over the course of millennia. Stuart looks an impenetrable maze via the approach from the west, with no obvious, continuous weak line. The mountain’s steely gaze dares us to ask questions of ourselves, to dance with the demons of doubt. Our twin headlamps pierce the darkness, announcing our intent to emerge from the forest we shelter in and tame the West Ridge with 30 meters of fluorescent orange 9.2 mm rope.

The first inklings of dawn lick at the horizon as we find ourselves trying to follow the shoreline to the north end of Ingalls Lake when a better option would have been to backtrack slightly and circumnavigate the rock outcrop that juts out into the lake. Water is filled, and calories are consumed at the late summer headwaters of Ingalls Creek. Morning has cracked night’s code and light begins to spill onto the peaks of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness to the northwest. After an hour and a run in with an apathetic mountain

goat, we don helmets at the base of the second couloir from the west—the start of the route.

The easy 4th class scrambling up the couloir is like entering the grand hallway of a shattered cathedral.

Impressive rock formations stand watch on either side. We quickly gain hundreds of feet of elevation until we

out over the ridge to our east and lower into the adjacent couloir. The traverse is exposed, but no more than 3rd and easy 4th class.

Now at the base of another eversteepening staircase, the ominous figure of Long John Tower stands above and to our right. The route passes through the notch just behind this

eventually end up at several bivvy spots and a notch which looks out on the north face. Descending slightly from the notch, the goal is to now traverse

tower. Homework has told us there are two main routes heading out of the couloir we’re in and up the walls leading to the notch. Ascending, the

grade becomes increasingly steep until we find ourselves in a narrowing chasm terminating in a massive boulder wedged between the walls. We find a sling, which someone either used to clip protection into or bailed off of.

To our left, a smooth slab intersects a large black flake. Wondering if this is really the weakest line, we opt to descend a ways out of the chasm, toward climber’s right to what looks like easier 4th class scrambling. I choose what I think is a clean line up a chimney with a blocky start. Half way up the chimney, on a gradient that has my heart pounding faster than I’d like, I find myself face to face with an old piton hammered into the crack. I should be roped up for this, I think to myself. Committed, I increase my focus, testing every hold and ensuring proper placement of my approach shoes. I eventually mantle up onto the ledge. As I look down, I catch Jordan sweating bullets in the same spot where I had continued on next page

Photo: Ken Etze

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NOVEMBER 2016 27

Stuart, continued from previous page my revelation. As we would find out later, we had climbed too far to the right, when a 4th/low-5th class option had been a few meters to the left. Apart from the traverse to get back on route, the rest of the scramble to the notch is uneventful.

Beams of sunlight greet us with warmth and renewed energy as we take a break to refuel our minds and bodies at Long John Tower. A couple of climbers can be heard topping out on the summit, having come up the Cascadian Couloir. They scope us out and offer a wave, a gesture I had mirrored from their vantage point a year before. Their faces indiscernible, I voluntarily choose to ignore what physics has taught me about time and space and pretend I am waving back at a temporally-shifted version of myself. I reconnect with my hopes and ambitions of prior years and wonder what the silhouetted shadow of my past perched up at the summit thinks of my progression. I can’t help but smile. The mountains are the sanctums in which I manifest my will.

While I am philosophizing in my head, Jordan is mercilessly eviscerating handfuls of Goldfish. I snap back to the task at hand, partake in the cracker massacre, and begin to decipher the way forward. If there is one thing I’ve learned over the years, it is to take advantage of any breaks to consolidate tasks. In theory, there is no need to rope up until far later on the route, but we choose to put on harnesses, make the rope accessible, dial-in camera settings and split up the nuts and hexes in one fell swoop instead of having to stop again later.

Instead of heading down and traversing the next gulley and ridge, we choose to maintain the elevation we fought for and bear left and upward. A scissorlike formation sits atop the skyline. At first glance, we question the existence of a supposed ledge just under the formation, but after some 4th class moves to the west, we find the path of least resistance.

Traversing over the ledge, we come face to face with the infamous “air-step,” a 2 to 3 foot gap in the rock with extreme exposure. Our forethought proves effective, as the decision to rope up for this short section is made easier by the fact that the rope is accessible and harnesses are on. Jordan hands me the hexes he is carrying and I lead out, protecting the gap before and after with a sling and a large hex. I take my time bringing Jordan over afterward, belaying off my harness.

Descending slightly into the next obvious couloir, we look upward to see that it tapers significantly. Is 28 MAZAMAS

this the West Ridge Notch? We climb up through frustratingly loose rock as the walls squeeze inward. The gulley ultimately ends at a window in the ridgeline about a meter wide. Peering out into the void and over the north face, we can’t see how stepping out onto the face would stay within our route’s supposed 5.4 rating. We deliberate for far too long, ultimately deciding that we might not be in the correct gulley. We choose to descend back the way we came and look for a way over into the next couloir. I send Jordan to scout the route, watching from an extremely exposed ledge high above. His blue shirt and red pack stand out in stark contrast to the gunmetal hues of the looming headwall he is beginning to fade into. As he reaches a boulder laying among the rubble like a derelict ship upon the seabed, I look through my eyepiece and compose the shot. Jordan stands in it, immensely insignificant beneath bulkheads of dormant potential energy.

“It doesn’t go,” Jordan shouts back up. I think back to the window in the ridgeline. I am convinced that it is not the spot where we are supposed to climb out onto the north face and Jordan’s scouting tells me we haven’t overshot the notch. We clamber back up to the

same spot, having now lost an hour.

Although we expected the West Ridge Notch to be significantly larger, I peer up and to the east and see what looks like a man-made wall of stones, a bivvy site. Some low 5th-class and 4th-class scrambling brings us up onto a shelf that wraps around to the north side.

This is the entry point to the north face.

Reenergized, we rope up and Jordan belays me up and out of site onto the face. Stuart Glacier groans hundreds of feet below the dangling rope. I aim for the closest notch on the ridgeline, top out and bring Jordan up. Instead of trying to interpret the route description further, we shoot straight up the ridge, requiring some awkward stemming and grunting up and over a large curved boulder with no good foot holds. This lands us onto a sandy ledge from which we must decide whether or not to descend further and to the east, where a 5.4 section is said to be the last challenge before the summit. A short section of low 5th-class slab to our left separates us from the other option: two curved, roughly parallel cracks tucked away at the back of an alcove.

We choose the latter, opting to haul the packs separately. The start has no feet due to the flaring crack and the upper two feet featuring a slight overhang.

Surely not 5.4, but we’re up for it.

Jordan goes up first. I watch him struggle with the overhang, which he eventually overcomes with brute strength. He sends down a loop of rope to haul the packs with. His first, then mine. “I can’t belay from here, I need to head up,” Jordan yells down. The rope

slithers up and over the overhang like a snake. Then, nothing.

I take inventory of my gear, my surroundings, my state of mind. A personal anchor, some cordelette and a nut tool hang off my harness. A bank of thin clouds stretches out like a curtain across the sky, moments away from replacing crystal blues with opaque grays. A light breeze rustles ... nothing.

Without my camera, without my partner, without movement, my mind wavers. Blues depart and the day dims slightly.

Suddenly, the rope goes taught. I yell upward, but there is no response.

I’m yelling into the emptiness. I move forward and the rope goes taught again. All right, I’m on belay I guess.

At first, I struggle to find any logical way to get started with the bombay crack. Finally, I jam a fist as high as I can and pull myself up so a foot can find enough purchase on the granite to smear. I find another handhold just before the overhang. Through some bizarre elbow mantle move that I improvise on the spot and would garner no style points in any sort of competition, I haul myself outward and upward over the crux. I move up past some blocks, behind which Jordan has found a flat belay station and is casually bringing in the slack.

The last 100 feet to the summit are easy, low 5th-class blocks and an exposed 4th-class traverse. Lenticular clouds now plague the atmosphere and Mt. Rainier makes its own weather in the distance. We revel in the ripples of mutual stoke, share a hug and a sandwich.

The descent is straightforward, with my having done it before. The snowfield to the east of the false summit that usually requires an ice axe is melted out. We fly past it, skiing through the scree. In little time, we find ourselves down at Ingalls Creek.

Fourteen hours into our endeavor, our spirits are still high. Dusk will be upon us soon, so we make haste toward the steep ascent back up Longs Pass.

Although our approach hikes are often done swiftly and in silence, our post-summit hikes back to the car could not be more different.

Conversation flows like meltwater through a glacier, sometimes deep and pensive, sometimes shallow and unimpeded. We analyze the climb: where we lost time, how we got lost, what to leave behind next time. We throw around future goals: the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart, the north face of Mt. Shuksan, Central Asia, ski mountaineering the volcanos of the Kamchatka Peninsula. We talk about relationships, our “careers” and the ways one chooses to navigate life. We lust after burritos and the unopened package of salami waiting in the car.

We wonder if it is stupid to try to make it back to the parking lot without the use of headlamps. It is, but we do it anyway.

8 p.m. on a Friday night. The time when normal people start thinking about another drink and less normal ones stumble back into parking lots in the middle of the wilderness as the rain starts to bleed from the sky. The perfect time to doze off with a smirk on my face and a summit in my pocket.

KIDS CORNER Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) trains adult and youth climbers in entry level rock and snow climbing skills. This class is an incredible opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities.

30 MAZAMAS

FM101 class. Photo: Mark Seker.

Families Mountaineering 101 Fun and challenging and scary. These are the feelings I experienced climbing and rappelling at Horsethief Butte State Park in the early fall. My mom, dad, and I along with the rest of the Family Mountaineering 101 class spent two weekends learning basic climbing skills, including how to belay from below and above, move along a fixed line, and rappel off a cliff. The weather was good, the views great, and company tremendous. On the first Sunday morning I did an adventure climb with my mom and dad, following my dad on a challenging route and belaying my mom up after me.

The following weekend I began Sunday morning rappelling off a tall cliff. I was nervous, excited, and afraid, but one of the instructors helped by rappelling down next to me. Overcoming the fear was hard, but the rappel was so fun I wanted to do more. —Ian Fairgrieve

The first two field sessions of Family Mountaineering 101 have been a great experience for our family. The site was perfect; physically beautiful and challenging.

Organization was strong, the assistant instructors helpful and proficient, and our fellow students positive and supportive.

We ended Saturday night of our second weekend camping on the north bank of the Columbia River, eating s'mores around a bonfire. Hard to imagine a better weekend! —John Fairgrieve

AYM ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS OFFERS ACTIVITIES TARGETED TO THOSE IN THEIR 20S & 30S AND ANYONE YOUNG AT HEART

New AYM hike leader Taylor Courier. Photo: Reena Clements

WE ARE PLEASED TO WELCOME OUR NEWEST HIKE LEADER:

TAYLOR COURIER ▶▶Where is your hometown? Buffalo, NY. ▶▶How many years have you been involved with Mazamas? Involved for 3 years, I became a member and hike leader in July 2016 ▶▶What is your favorite trip that you’ve led with AYM? Lake Cave exploration. This is a lava tube part of the Mount St. Helens flow not far from Ape Cave. ▶▶ One thing I always bring on a hike that is not one of the ten essentials? Pizza. It’s become a tradition to pull out a slice at the end of a hike or on top of a mountain. ▶▶ What did you want to be when you grew up? I think I always wanted to be an engineer, even if I wasn’t quite sure which kind. I always liked working with my hands, building things and tearing other things apart. I ended up getting degrees in Computer Engineering and Electrical Engineering, and then working for several years as a Software Engineer. ▶▶ What is one surprising thing about you? I just quit my job after three years in order to pursue a Master of Science in Robotics at Oregon State University. ▶▶ People should sign up for a trip with you if ...

They want to explore somewhere new and awesome, take a slightly easier pace, take some pictures, explore a cave, etc. ▶▶Any interesting future plans for leading trips? I plan to lead a series of hikes and other adventures (including caves and hot springs) leaving from Salem and/or Corvallis over the next year or two while in grad school at Oregon State.

With the onset of the rainy season, AYM will be shifting to hosting fall and winter appropriate activities.

Sunday, November 13: Rain and mist can make waterfalls even more magical. Join AYM for a Gorge waterfall tour. Waterfalls TBD, check our website for more information or contact Reena to sign up: reenac@bu.edu.

Ongoing: Ever wanted to try a new winter sport? When there is snow on the mountains, AYM will host beginner cross country ski trips. Check our website and Meetup for more information, or contact Sandor: sandor.lau@gmail. com Interested in learning how to climb or looking for new friends to go climbing with? AYM will be hosting Climb Night in the winter. Make sure to check our website and meetup page for details on date and gym location.

Interested in learning what AYM is about or looking for a casual introduction to our group? Be sure and join us for pub night on the third Monday of the month, November 21 at Sasquatch Brewing, 6:30 p.m. We also host board game night on the first Wednesday of the month (check our website and Meetup page for location, they rotate every month!)

We are always adding new events for getting outdoors!

Be sure to watch both the mazamas.org/activities/ aym page and the AYM Meetup page for the most up-todate schedule.

NOVEMBER 2016 31

CLASSIC MAZAMAS FOR MEMBERS WITH 25 YEARS OR MORE OF MEMBERSHIP OR FOR THOSE WHO PREFER TO TRAVEL AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE

32 MAZAMAS

We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics, and cultural excursions.

Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome.

Meetings: Fourth Monday of the month at 11 a.m. at the MMC.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS

TRANSPORTATION PLAN

Rose Marie Gilbert at 503762-2357 or gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net. Executive Council liaison Marty Hanson at martyhanson@mazamas. org, 503-227-0974, or classics@ mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED

We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. We need a secretary for meeting minutes, a co-chair to help with planning and communication, and more. You don't have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could.

LEADING EVENTS IN DECEMBER

Contact Rose Marie Gilbert

by Nov. 15 for inclusion in the upcoming Bulletin.

Our east side transportation pick-up point is Gateway; our west side is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events, you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact transportation coordinator, Flora Huber, at flobell17@comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

DEC. 16: CLASSICS HOLIDAY PARTY AT NOON AT THE MMC

New 25- and 50-year members will receive their pins.

Congratulations, new members!

MAZAMAS NORDIC SKI SCHOOL The Mazamas Nordic Ski School typically offers three types of cross-country skiing classes: Classic, Telemark, and Backcountry. (Ski Mountaineering is taught as a separate program.)

The Nordic Ski School program consists of a mandatory evening Student “Meet Your Instructor” Orientation on Friday, Jan. 6, 2017, followed by 3 class sessions on consecutive weekends, either Saturday or Sunday, whichever day you registered for. Classes anticipated to start Jan. 21 & 22, 2017, the weekend after MLK day.

Online Registration, Nov. 1– Dec. 2. mazamas.org/educationclasses/nordic-ski-school/ NOTE: Instructor availability and weather conditions can sometimes lead to re-scheduling or cancellations!

QUESTIONS ABOUT MAZAMA NORDIC SKI SCHOOL?

Check the Nordic Webpage for detailed class descriptions, pricing and other useful information! mazamas.org/education-classes/ nordic-ski-school/ Email the Mazama Nordic Committee at nordic@ mazamas.org or the Mazama Mountaineering Center at adventure@mazamas.org. You may also call the Mazama office at (503) 227-2345.

ARE OUR CLASSES FULL? More Nordic ski classes and tours are available through the Oregon Nordic Club. Private lessons available through Wy’East Nordic http://www.wyeastnordic. com/xc-ski-cross-country.htm

NORDIC SKI SCHOOL INSTRUCTORS The Nordic Ski School instructors are Nordic skiing enthusiasts and volunteer to teach Nordic skiing simply for the love of the sport. They have First Aid and CPR certification and receive professional instructor training (Wy’East Nordic), guidelines, and support from the Mazamas. The Nordic Committee pays for these trainings! Each class also has at least one assistant instructor.

APPLY

If you are interested in teaching or assisting with a Mazama Nordic Ski School class, or just have questions about it, please contact nordic@ mazamas.org. ▶▶ online: mazamas.org/educationclasses/nordic-ski-school/ ▶▶ phone: 503-227-2345 and apply over the phone. Your information will be forwarded to the Nordic Committee.

INSTRUCTOR REQUIREMENTS ▶▶ Attend Instructor Orientation annually ▶▶ Attend at least one day of the Instructor Clinic bi-annually (PISA Ceritfied Professional Instructor training is paid for by Mazamas.)

▶▶ Standard First Aid and CPR Certification (reimbursed up to $70)—Lead: Required; Assistant: Recommended. ▶▶ (Assistant): Completed Mazama intermediate level ski class OR recommended by a Mazama Ski instructor ▶▶ (Lead): Recommended by lead instructor of class they assisted IMPORTANT DATES ▶▶ Dec. 2, 2016 (Friday)—Instructor application deadline ▶▶ Dec. 7, 2016 (Wednesday)— proposed date for Mandatory Instructor Orientation ▶▶ Dec. 17–18, 2016 (Sat & Sun)— proposed dates for Instructor Clinics at Mt. Hood. There will be 1 or 2 Instructor Clinics. ▶▶ Jan. 6, 2017 (Friday)—Student Orientation/Meet Your Instructor Night—6:30 p.m. check-in (start at 7 p.m.) at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. ▶▶ Jan. 21, 28, and Feb. 4, 2017 (Saturdays) or Jan. 22, 29, and Feb. 5, 2017 (Sundays)—Nordic classes

NOVEMBER 2016 33

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL OF YOU ON YOUR SUCCESSFUL SUMMITS! Aug. 12, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: John Godino, Asst: Stacey Reding. Darren Aboulafia, John Dwyer, Lisa Oakland, Nicole Peirce, Trey Schutrumpf, Jessica Shuell, Michael Turaski Sept. 10, North Sister, South Ridge.

Leader: Bill McLoughlin, Asst: Andrew Stronach.

Sept. 10, Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: Alex Lockard.

Ryan Bottesini Eric Brainich, Kristin Dreves, Melissa Guajardo, Walker McAninch-Runzi, Anna Revolinsky, Deb Senkovitz, Jaclyn VanSloten, Jun Wang, Nicole Zapata Sept. 10, Mt. Stuart, West Ridge. Leader: Azure Olson, Asst: Margaret McCarthy.

Sept. 13, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge.

Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Marty Scott. Ann Griffin, Suresh Singh, Doug Wilson Sept. 15, Paulina Peak, West Saddle.

Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Wes McNamara.

Carole Beauclerk, Jay Feldman, Eric Hall, Lawrence Solomon

Sept. 16, Granite Mt. & Trico Mt., Robin Lakes. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Rick Craycraft. Sherry Aanerud, Ann BrodieKnope, Kate Evans, Ardel Frick, Greg Graham, Duncan Hart, Lisa Hemesath Sept. 16, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Joe Petsche. Peter Allen, Seeger Fisher, Jack Koco, Joe Powell, John Wilson Sept. 18, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge.

Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: John Andrews.

Laurel Johnson, Gary Riggs, Tamara Ross, Karen Vernier, Ethan Wood Sept. 23, Plummer, Pinnacle Saddle.

Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Cecille Beyl, Aaron Johnson, Ed Johnson, Sandra Johnson, Larry Murry Sept. 24, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge.

Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Ken Lytwyn.

Aaron Bailey, Joe Kaufman, Jack Kuo, Mark Pabst, Sam Reinkensmeyer, Gregory Simons Sept. 24, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Bill McLoughlin, Asst: Bryce Buchanan. Kelli Horvath, Kristi Reidel, Jeffery Roderick, Cate Schneider, Tommy Taylor, Michael Vincerra, Sept. 25, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: John Meckel. Toby Contreras, Sean Moriarty, Andy Phan, Christine Troy, Daniel Wright

503.684.9698

34 MAZAMAS

Sept. 25, Mt. Bailey, SE Ridge. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Ken Lytwyn. Aaron Bailey, Joe Kaufman, Courtney Rust Sept. 25, Mt. Washington, West Ridge.

Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Aaron Bohn. Jennifer Johnson, Jessica Johnson, Becky Nelson, Harry Nelson, Anibal Rocheta Sept. 25, Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: James Pitkin. Lauren Mason, Prajwal Mohan, Paul Munn, Maureen O'Hagen, Scott Stevenson, Antonio Tatum, Kalen Turner Sept. 25, South Sister, Green Lakes.

Leader: Bill McLoughlin, Asst: Michael Vincerra. Bryce Buchanan, Kelli Horvath, Kristi Reidel, Cate Schneider, Tommy Taylor, Erika Waters, Jordan Wheeler Sept. 25, South Sister, Devil's Lake.

Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Marjorie Hendryx. Jason Fedchak Sept. 25, Tamanos Mountain, Southeast Ridge. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Jonathan Myers. Kerra Blakely, Connor Chamberlin, Michael Dahlin, Sandee Myers, Ken Park Sept. 27, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Shirley Welch. Bertie Aug., Rich Hall, Charles Hanlon, Michael Osmera, Amanda Virbitsky Sept. 28, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Barry O'Mahony. Jesse Applegate, Bill Guiffre, Kaitlin Rupert, Chaitanya Sathe, Suresh Singh, Tracie Weitzman Sept. 30, Elkhorn Peak & Butte, Crest trail. Leader: Daniel Mick, Asst: Tim Collins. Rick Craycraft, John Dwyer, Sarah Horn, Rebecca Olsen Oct. 1, Mt. Hubris, Cosmic Wall.

Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Stephen Hirai. Jesse Applegate, Ryan Johnson, Stephanie Keske, Jan Roethle, Patrick Thorpe, Brooke Weeber Oct. 1, Thompson Peak, Valley of the Storms. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Erin Devlin. Connor Chamberlin, Allison Legg, Bill Stein, Richard Stellner

Mazamas Intermediate Climbing School is in full swing and the students are in the midst of amping up their rock skills at Smith Rock State Park. You can follow along on Instagram by following #mazamasics.

NOVEMBER 2016 35

OUTINGS ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC EXPLORING THE BORDERLANDS— BIG BEND AND GUADALUPE NATIONAL PARKS FEB 4–14, 2017 Join us for a spring trip to southwest Texas—a place Mazamas have rarely gone. Big Bend is a hiker's paradise containing the largest expanse of roadless public lands in Texas. More than 150 miles of trails offer opportunities for day hikes or backpacking trips.

Elevations range from 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet on Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains. Elevation changes produce an exceptional variety of plants, animals, and scenic vistas.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park is the southernmost part of the 40-mile-long Guadalupe range and the highpoint of Texas. From the highway, the mountains resemble a nearly monolithic wall through the desert. But drive into the park and surprises crop up: dramatic canyons, shady glades surrounded by desert scrub, a profusion of wildlife, and numerous birds. Carlsbad Caverns is a short drive north of Guadalupe, and participants would have the option to visit.

We will camp in park campgrounds each night—seven nights in Big Bend, two in Guadalupe. Expect mild to warm daytime temperatures, and cold nights. Hiking will be at a moderate pace and distances (there will be several hike leaders and hike options). There will also be plenty of time to look for birds, as the parks are one of the best spots in the West for birding.

Outing cost is $316–$258 for 4 to 10 (maximum) participants. A $100 deposit is required and signup deadline is Dec. 15, 2016. Participants are responsible for airfare (to El Paso), car rentals, overnight lodging other than camping, and all meals.

Contact outing leader Bob Breivogel (breivog@teleport.com) or assistant leader Bob Smith (rzs.vyg@frontier.com) for more information or to apply.

NORTH TO ALASKA OUTING MARCH 4–11, 2017 This Outing travels to Talkeetna, Alaska and uses a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. The trip this year overlaps with the start of the Iditarod and the plan is to attend the restart of the Iditarod in Willow on Sunday, March 5.

The Outing group will meet in Anchorage and use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna. At Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, aurora watching, learning about dog mushing and the Iditarod, photography, meeting locals, and learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaska Range. There will likely be an optional air taxi flight around Denali, with a glacier landing in the Ruth Gorge. Group participants can arrive earlier to Anchorage to attend Iditarod and Fur Rondy activities.

Deposit of $650 covers Talkeetna housing, ground transportation during the Outing, half of food costs, and Outing fee. Participants are responsible for airfare, Anchorage housing, all restaurant meals, equipment rentals, and extra activities. Signup deadline is Feb. 1, 2017.

Individuals interested in joining the Outing need to contact Tom Bennett at nordlystom@gmail.com. Please let Tom know why you are interested in attending and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information.

Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the Outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club— outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub. org. As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.

36 MAZAMAS

CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING JULY 9–24, 2017 Intermediate Climbing School graduates, Advanced School graduates, or equivalent experience required. Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Outing cost will be $2,250 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round-trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains, and cable cars are included).

Food cost, hut fees and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included.

For full details go to the website. Contact leader, Lee Davis, lee@ mazamas.org for more information.

YELLOWSTONE OUTING

Cross another one off your bucket-list!

ACT16735

JULY 30–AUG 5, 2017 The Mazamas will be hiking in America’s oldest national park in the summer of 2017. Richard Getgen and Robert Smith are your leaders.

We will day hike for five days (Monday through Friday). There will be two hikes offered each day (a combination of A and B-level hikes) in the national park.

Our base camp will be in the southeast section of Yellowstone National Park. Participants will make their own reservations at the resort which offers cabins, tent sites, and RV sites. The cost of the outing is $175 for members and $245 for nonmembers.

We will have a pre-outing meeting next spring to meet the group members, organize carpools, and present information. Contact Richard at teambears@frontier.com to register for this fun and scenic hiking opportunity.

Join us in Peru for a 7, 10 or 14-day adventure.

Hike

• The Lares or Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu • The Amazon Jungle • Sacsayhuaman Fortress • Amantani and Taquile Islands

Plus

• Cycle the Sacred Valley of the Incas • Sea kayak Lake Titicaca • Explore Cuzco

Get your FREE BROCHURE at: activeadventures.com/peru or call: 1 800 661 9073 NOVEMBER 2016 37

New member Amy Kennedy on the summit of South Sister.

MAZAMAS Member Corner.

WELCOME NEW MAZAMAS! New Members: 34 Daniel Avery—South Sister Jeri Botsford—Mt. Shasta Katie Brooks—Mt. St. Helens Chris Brox—Middle Sister Andrew Chang—Mt. Thielsen Thomas Cosimano—South Sister Nancy Cozine—Mt. Hood Kelly Cramton—South Sister Zane Davidson—Mt. St. Helens Minah DeAinza—South Sister Christopher Densmore—South Sister John Erland—South Sister Michael Feldman—South Sister Marsha Fick—South Sister Arlene Flynn—Mt. St. Helens Lindsey Garner—South Sister Jared Greco—Middle Sister

Steve Gunther—Mt. Hood Amber Hibberd—South Sister Sarah Johnson—Mt. St. Helens Heather Johnston—Old Snowy Amy Kennedy—South Sister Kevin Knutson—South Sister Vicki Knutson—South Sister Nicklas Lasik—Mt. Adams Adam Lewis—Aconcagua Brandon Lujan—South Sister Sarah Phillips—Mt. St. Helens Steven Reid—South Sister Steph Routh—South Sister Robert Semmes—Mt. Adams Jan Sturdevant—Mt. St. Helens Emily Walbridge—Mt. St. Helens Jun Wang—Mt. Hood

Reinstatements: 3 Deborah Gant (2013), Jerome Schiller (2001), Kyla Yeoman (2013)

Deceased: 4 Verl Boroughs (1972), Richard R. Hall (1949), Patricia Lobb-Stansbury (1964), Peg Nelson-Oslund (1963)

Total Membership: 2016—3,650; 2015—3,524 38 MAZAMAS

Stay Connected ▶▶Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/ mazamas.pdx ▶▶Follow us on Instagram: mazamaspdx and tag us in your photos with #mazamaspdx ▶▶Subscribe to our blog: mazamas.blogspot.com ▶▶Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. ▶▶Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin.

Go to tinyurl.com/ MazamasAds for details.

Show Your Mazama Pride!

Check out a variety of new Mazama products in our CafePress store: cafepress. com/ mazamas. You'll find t-shirts, sweatshirts, mugs, onesies, sippy cups, and more! If there are any other products you would like to see in our store, don't hesitate to ask! (Email: sarah@mazamas.org)

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl. com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.

PORTLAND ALPINE FEST (PAF) ONGOING

Join the team that puts on the biggest event of the year! We have opportunities for you to get involved with a long-term volunteer gig, or to drop in for a few hours. Visit the PAF website to learn more and sign up! portlandalpinefest. org/volunteer/

LIBRARY & ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS ONGOING

Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in Oregon mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices helpful, not mandatory. Please contact Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas. org to sign up or learn more.

LEAD HIKES FOR MAZAMA FAMILIES ONGOING

The Mazama Families program runs regular hikes for kids and their parents to participate in together. These hikes give families a chance to explore the beauty of the outdoors, and to prepare for more strenuous activities like climbs.

Hike Leaders receive basic leadership

training, first aid and CPR, and do a provisional lead with the guidance of a hike leader mentor. Families hike leaders must also complete a background check. If interested, contact Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com.

AYM CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS ONGOING

Indoor rock climbing is held oncea-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability.

Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. Choose the climbing gym of your choice! Contact aym@mazamas.org if you would be interested in hosting.

MAZAMA FAMILIES ONGOING The Mazama Families Committee has openings for new members to join the committee for 2016–2017. If you would like to help this strong program carry forward into the future, please consider joining the committee. To express your interest, or for more information, email families@mazamas.org.

STORYTELLERS, WRITERS, AND EDITORS WANTED! ONGOING

Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your college-era editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you simply like to learn about any or all of the above in a supportive

group? The Publications Committee is a group of Mazamas who love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word (online and off)! We meet the first Tuesday of the month at 7 p.m. at the MMC. For more information, please contact Marketing & Communications Director Sarah Bradham (sarah@mazamas.org) .

USED EQUIPMENT SALE VOLUNTEER COORDINATOR ONGOING

The Used Equipment Sale takes a huge amount of volunteer care and effort. This year’s coordinators are seeking to add a new member to their team who will coordinate and support UES volunteers, both team captains and day-of volunteers. If you are interested in helping out, please contact ues@ mazamas.org.

TREE PLANTING SEASON! ONGOING

Join the Conservation Committee practicing stewardship in our own backyard. We’ll be teaming up with Friends of Trees to plant native trees and shrubs at Veteran’s Creek (9795 SE Mt. Scott Blvd.) in the salmonbearing Johnson Creek Watershed.

Breakfast snacks, hot chocolate/coffee, gloves, and tools provided. All you need to bring is yourself, dressed for the weather, with sturdy, closed-toe shoes. Saturday, Dec. 3, 8:45 a.m.–1 p.m. Sign-up here: http://bit.ly/2eaf4vl Questions? Contact Lea Wilson, lea.ione.w@gmail.com

NOVEMBER 2016 39

MAZAMA LODGE YOUR HOME ON THE MOUNTAIN THANKSGIVING AT THE LODGE

Join us on the mountain for another great Thanksgiving feast on Thursday, Nov. 24. Guests may bring their own adult beverage to enjoyed with dinner at our otherwise “dry” lodge.

Call to reserve your spot at 503-272-9214. (Adults, $22; Kids (ages 2–12), $13.25, Kids under 2, free!)

THANKSGIVING SCHEDULE

▶▶ Noon: Lodge opens ▶▶ 1 p.m.: Trail Trips committee leads a hike or snowshoe from the lodge (depending on weather) ▶▶ 4 p.m.: Appetizers served ▶▶ 5 p.m.: Dinner served THANKSGIVING MENU

▶▶ Vegetable crudité with selection of dips (vegan) ▶▶ Smoked salmon with cheese spread ▶▶ Mixed green salad with sun-dried cranberry & toasted almond vinaigrette ▶▶ Garlic mashed potatoes ▶▶ Roasted sweet potatoes with shallots ▶▶ Cornbread stuffing with cranberry sauce ▶▶ Aaron’s homemade rolls ▶▶ Oregon turkeys with giblet gravy ▶▶ Apple pie and pumpkin pie with whipped cream FURNITURE DONATION

The lodge is seeking a nice dresser to make the caretaker’s quarters a bit more comfortable. If you have a furniture donation please contact Aaron or Brett at caretaker@mazamas.org.

ANNUAL LOCKER RENTALS

For those of you who have an annual locker rental please send your payment to Mazama Lodge. Payment is $25 per locker for the year. You can either pay with a check or pay with a credit card next time you come up to the lodge.

BOOKS RECENTLY ADDED TO THE MAZAMAS LIBRARY PP The Alchemy of Action by Doug Robinson (796.01.

R56) Why do people climb mountains? Because it gets us high. But adrenaline junkies we are not, and beta-endorphin isn’t behind runner’s high either.

The surprising answer reveals natural psychedelic transformations at work deep in the brains of adventure athletes.

PP Columbia Gorge Getaways by Laura O. Foster (917.9.F78) Columbia Gorge Getaways is your complete guidebook to the Columbia River Gorge, an 80-milelong chasm that's one of the nation’s few National Scenic Areas.

PP Scraping Heaven by Cindy Ross (920.R73) A true account of a family's five-year adventure in the untamed wilderness of the American Rockies.

PP Sixty Meters to Anywhere (920.L6) Sixty Meters to Anywhere is the painfully honest story of a life changed by climbing, and the sometimes nervous, sometimes nerve-wracking, and often awkward first years of recovery. In the mountains, Leonard ultimately finds a second chance.

LIBRARY INVENTORY ANNOUNCEMENT The Mazama Library will be conducting an inventory this fall. Please look around your house, car, and gear room to see if you have any overdue Mazama Library books. If you do, please return them, no questions asked.

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NOVEMBER 2016 41

WEBSITE UPDATES

TRAIL TRIPS

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates!

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION

JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL

TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org.

HK B1.5 Nov 02 (Wed) Kings Mountain Tony Spiering 503-6808112. Nice woodsy hike with big ferns in the Coast Range. Views from the summit. Little slower pace, expect to reach summit in 2 hours. Lunch at the top. Dress for the weather. Back to Target about 2:30 p.m. 5.4 mi., 2,780 Ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 8 a.m. (AR) HK B2.5 Nov 04 (Fri) Battle Ax Trail Loop Hike W. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Nice fall hike in the rugged Bull of the Woods Wilderness, home to old growth forest and beautiful views of Elk Lake and Mt. Jefferson. The highlight of this hike is the summit of Battle Ax, a former fire lookout at 5,558 ft. This wilderness is in the southwest side of Mt. Hood National Forest, a little off the beaten track for Portlanders but definitely worth checking out.

Trekking poles and traction devices needed. 6 mi., 1,700 Ft., Drive 185, Tualatin (Durham) P & R 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Nov 05 (Sat) Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We will see thousands of birds headed south along with the birds who stay year-around at Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge.

We will hike the Carty Unit first followed by a car trip around the River S unit including a walk to a blind that looks over the flyway area. Wear your raingear and boots; feel free to bring an umbrella—great hike rain or shine.

Back to Gateway by 4 p.m. 4 mi., 150 Ft., Drive 60, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Nov 05 (Sat) Mary's Peak (North Ridge) Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Coast Range hike in Beaver country.

Mary's Peak near Corvallis is the highest mountain in the coast range.

It may be a little late in the season, but this is known as mushroom country.

8.6 mi., 2,300 Ft., Drive 174, TH, Gateway 8 a.m. (AR) HK C2 Nov 05 (Sat) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Dyanne Foster 503 2678937. Wilderness—Limit 12. Let's hike up to the lake! A few good views if the weather cooperates, and then the beauty of the lake where we will lunch.

Dress for autumn weather. Check with leader to see if traction devices may be needed. 13.2 mi., 4,160 Ft., Drive 88, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (GH,WO)

Wilderness—Limit 12 indicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12.

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING

Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/aym/

STREET RAMBLES

Multiple teams hike at different paces every Tuesday and Thursday with various leaders. Bring a headlamp. 4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

HK B2 Nov 06 (Sun) Devils Rest (via Wahkeena) David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. We will head up the Wahkeena Falls trail to reach Devils Rest, passing several waterfalls as we go up though the canyon. Will encounter many switchbacks, some steep sections, rocky and possible slippery footing as we go. Once we reach Devils Rest, we'll have lunch and then return via the loop trail (Foxglove) where we will join the Angel’s Rest trail and work our way back to the cars. We will have a short stop at Wahkeena Springs. Good work out and short drive from Portland. Contact leader if any questions or wish early sign up.

Daylight savings time ends today remember to fall back. 9.5 mi., 2,800 Ft., Drive 45, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(WF)

HK B2 Nov 09 (Wed) Aldrich Butte —Cedar Falls. Rex Breunsbach 971- 832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail. com. We will have a birds-eye view of Bonneville Dam from Aldrich Butte and explore the area between Cedar Falls and Hamilton Creek. I expect a challenging stream crossing so bring your poles and waterproof gear. $5 per car to park at the Hot Springs.

1,700 mi., 7 Ft., Drive 87, MMC 8 a.m.

(WF,GH) HK A2 Nov 12 (Sat) Herman Creek Pinnacles Dan Smith 971-3314823. Hike from parking lot under the Bridge of Gods. We will hike to Herman Creek Pinnacles and on to a small waterfall. Then back to Dry Creek Falls tall for lunch. 6 mi., 950 Ft., Drive 78, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF)

Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor 42 MAZAMAS

HK B2 Nov 13 (Sun) WahkeenaMultnomah Creeks Loop Tom Eggers 503- 334-6356. Water, water everywhere! Waterfalls abound on this classic Gorge hike. We'll park at Multnomah Falls, walk a short distance along the Historic Highway to the return trail, then up the steep Wahkeena Trail, and past dramatic Wahkeena Falls. The trail continues uphill past a viewpoint, more waterfalls and to a spring that is the source for the stream. We'll then go gradually downhill to Multnomah Creek and the Larch Mountain trail, past yet more waterfalls for the return down to Multnomah Falls and the carpark. Trail can be slippery when wet, so good hiking shoes/boots and trekking poles recommended. Dress for the weather.

Check out the Trail Trips pages for good info on gear: Mazamas.org/hike.

5.4 mi., 1,700 Ft., Drive 48, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF)MU HK B1.5 Nov 16 (Wed) Gales CreekStorey Burn Loop Tony Spiering 503-680-8112. Nice hike in the Coast Range. Trees, ferns, and a small waterfall. Dress for the weather. Back at Target by early p.m. 8 mi., 1,400 Ft., Drive 50, Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK A2 Nov 19 (Sat) Trail of Ten Falls Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com.

Oregon's most impressive collection of waterfalls is at Silver Falls State Park.

On our loop hike, we'll take the Rim Trail to North Falls, then we'll visit all ten falls on our way back to South Falls Lodge. Email RSVP required by Fri., Nov. 18. 7.8 mi., 870 Ft., Drive 150, StatePark, Clackamas P&R Garage 8 a.m. (WF)MU Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Hike qualifies for Waterfall Awards.

AR: Hike qualifies for Awesome Ridges Awards.

HK B2 Nov 19 (Sat) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Popular hike in the Gorge with easy access from Portland. We will wander up the Eagle Creek trail passing half a dozen waterfalls, crossing the High Bridge and continuing until we reach Twister Falls (just past Tunnel Falls). Have lunch and then head back to the cars. Remember to bring food, snacks, water, including the 10 essentials. Being late fall, bring extra warm clothes, and rain gear. Contact leader to sign up. 12.6 mi., 1,080 Ft., Drive 74, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m.

(WF,WO) HK C2 Nov 23 (Wed) Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp).

Rex Breunsbach 971- 832-2556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Wilderness—Limit 12. Forested hike to a unique area. Lots of small creeks and waterfalls along the way. Be prepared for stream crossings. Poles and waterproof boots recommended.

14.6 mi., 2640 Ft., Drive 78, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (WF,WO) HK A1.5 Nov 24 (Thu) Latourell Falls Thanksgiving Day Loop Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503- 665-6778. Hopefully, the leaves will be dry enough for some serious leaf-kicking as we pass two pretty waterfalls on this wee gorge hike.

Trekking poles might come in handy.

Return to meeting place before noon.

2.3 mi., 700 Ft., Drive 30, Lewis & Clark—near toilets 9 a.m. (WF) HK A2 Nov 26 (Sat) Portland 4T Trail Tom Eggers 503- 334-6356. TrailTram-Trolley-Train (After Turkey, GH: Hike qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Hike qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Hike qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton– Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th.

Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

with Brunch Treats) Work off that Thanksgiving feast without leaving town. The hike will start at the top of the Zoo MAX station, go along urban paths and pleasant roads to Council Crest and into the Marquam Nature Park (which feels like a deep forest yet is in the City). We'll hike down to OHSU for an aerial tram ride to the South Waterfront. After a short walk, enjoy some surprise treats, then hop on the Streetcar/MAX to return to the Zoo MAX station. Hikers can ride MAX/Streetcar for a $5 day pass. Can either take the MAX to the Zoo station or drive and park at the Zoo. Dress for the weather. Trail running shoes okay, but the trail can be slippery in places if wet. 4 mi., 600 Ft., Drive Varies, Portland Zoo MAX Station 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Nov 26 (Sat) Cape Horn Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. We will start in the lower section and work our way up to the overlooks and back to the cars. You will probably need raingear and may need traction devices. Great views if at all clear. Back to Gateway by 4 p.m. 7 mi., 1,400 Ft., Drive 55, Gateway 8 a.m. (WF,GH) MU HK B2 Nov 30 (Wed) Saddle Mountain Rex Breunsbach 971- 8322556 or rbreunsbach@gmail.com.

Classic Coast Hike with great views from the top. Features a unique tread of chicken wire on some steep parts of the trail. This trail can be icy if temperatures are below freezing. We will do a second pick-up at Target & 185 on the west side at 8:30–8:45 a.m.

7.2 mi., 1,900 Ft., Drive 96, TH, MMC 8 a.m. (AR)

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs.

The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

NOVEMBER 2016 43

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members.

by Mathew Brock A brief Mazama Board meeting took place following the 2016 Annual Meeting on Oct. 3. Alex Fox, chair of the nominating committee, called the meeting to order. After welcoming the three new Board members, Marty Scott, Laura Pigion, and Steve Couche, the process of electing new Board officers began. Steve Hooker was nominated and confirmed for a second term as Mazamas President.

Board members elected Chris Kruell as Vice President based on a nomination by Marty Hanson. John Rettig and Jon Jurevic returned as Secretary and Treasurer respectively.

President Hooker then called the new Board to order. There were no members present for the member comment period. A motion was made, and seconded, to accept the minutes from the Sept. meeting. In the membership report, Secretary Rettig noted that the membership now stands at 3,650, an all-time high, and the organization is experiencing strong growth.

Following the membership report was a short discussion of the vote on the proposed bylaws changes.

Both proposals failed to reach the needed two-thirds majority and did not pass. In the Treasurer's Report, Jon Jurevic explained that because the Board meeting was taking place a week earlier than the normally scheduled meeting, the financials were not yet ready. He deferred his report until the November Board meeting.

Lee Davis began his Executive Director’s Report by welcoming the three new Board members and touching on the upcoming schedule of Board member obligations,

including the Board Retreat on Oct. 28–30. He then touched on some issues concerning the paperwork related to the transfer of funds between BlackRock Holdings and the Mazamas checking accounts.

Lee noted that REI had given the Mazamas a $20,000 grant to help support the Advocacy and Stewardship element of the strategic plan. He then discussed the Mazamas endorsement of Measure 99 to fund Outdoor School for All. Lee ended his report by giving a brief overview of the staff restructuring and noting the hiring of Justin Rotherham as the new Education & Activities Program Manager, and Mattie Courtright as the new Marketing & Events Coordinator.

President Hooker then raised the issue of the Volunteer Agreement and noted the failure of the previous Board to reach a unanimous agreement over email.

He asked the Board how it wished to proceed. Vice President Kruell moved that the Board vote to pass the Agreement as is. During the discussion phase, the new Board members expressed unfamiliarity with the proposed agreement and asked for time to review it. A motion was made and carried to defer action on the Agreement until the November Board meeting.

The public portion of the meeting ended with President Hooker noting that the previous Board had been in discussion about changing the dates and frequency of upcoming meetings. He asked the members to review the proposed changes and come to the Board Retreat ready to take action on the proposed plan.

The meeting then adjourned into the Executive Session.

Mazama members all have access to full Executive Council minutes. Go to: mazamas.org, login, go to the Members section and click on Executive Council Reports. Please note: Full minutes are available on a one-month delay due to the approval process.

44 MAZAMAS

SUMMARY OF ELECTION RESULTS FROM ANNUAL MEETING AND OFFICER ELECTION SESSION Number of votes cast 932 Member Election of Directors Marty Scott* received 617 Laura Pigion* received 584 Stephen Couche* received 579 Barbara Weiss received 480 Bruce Nisker received 173 Illegal votes 0 # of completely blank ballots 28 MEMBER ELECTION OF NOMINATING COMMITTEE Lis Cooper* 684 Kristie Perry* 648 Alex Fox* 630 Illegal Votes 0 # of completely blank ballots 151 BYLAWS CHANGE PROPOSALS REQUIRED 2/3 YES VOTE TO PASS (66.67%) BYLAWS CHANGE PROPOSAL #1 Shall we change Article III Section 7 of Bylaws to read: An annual member shall pay dues of $60 $72 except as hereinafter provided. # of Ballots Cast 918 Yes 611 (66.58%) No 307 (33.42%) # of completely blank ballots 13 Result: Did not pass BYLAWS CHANGE PROPOSAL #2 Shall we add a new Article III Section 7(f) to the Bylaws, as follows: Beginning with the dues in effect on Oct. 1, 2017, with at least six members voting affirmatively, Executive Council may change the annual dues by an amount not to exceed 3% increase per year, cumulatively. # of Ballots Cast 918 Yes 490 (53.37%) No 428 (46.62%) # of completely blank ballots 16 Result: Did not pass

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL ELECTION OF OFFICERS (all

offices uncontested)

President: Steve Hooker Vice President: Chris Kruell Secretary: John Rettig Treasurer: Jon Jurevic

With the new electronic voting system in place this year, it was noted that the majority of the members who voted—in excess of 90 percent—used this method to vote, and created a great savings of paper. It was also noted that the number of ballots cast in the 2016 election increased by 170 over 2015.

NOVEMBER 2016 45