October/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 10 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.
nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high
Contact Us Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.
The ALPINE ROCK Issue
Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon— Monday Noon
Stay sharp climbing indoors during the winter. Climbing Gym Guide.
p. 10
Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org)
p. 6
Mazamas in Yosemite
p. 17
Climbing in Potrero
p. 14
Exploring at Ozone
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El Capitan
The Portland Alpine Fest is back!, p. 30–34
An RTM Adventure
p. 29
Evening Programs begin Oct. 8
Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)
Kids Climb!
Book Review
Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org)
p. 28
p. 15
p. 24
Cover: Main–Brad Wood rappels on Forbidden Peak. Photo: Vaqas Malik. Inset Photos (left to right): 20s & 30s hiking group out on the trails. Photo: Unknown. Tree planting near Mt. Hood. Photo: Unknown. Four young climbers stand triumphant on the summit of South Sister, from left to right: Sam O’Leary, Josephine Blanke, Ruby Kofron, Luca Einspruch. Photo: Corinna Kupelwieser.
MONTHLY COLUMNS
Upcoming Events, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Membership Report, p. 8 20s & 30s, p. 9 Successful Climbers, p. 18 Classics, p. 22 Lodge Notes, p. 26 Families, p. 28 Trail Trips, p. 34 Outings, p. 37 Executive Council Minutes, p. 38
Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@ mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
Executive Director’s Report We want YOU at the Portland Alpine Festival! From Nov. 4–8 the Mazamas are again hosting the Portland Alpine Festival and we want you ALL to be there. My goal for this article is to convince you to attend what will surely be the biggest and best event celebrating alpine recreation that Portland has ever seen. Here’s what you need to know: The Portland Alpine Festival is a weeklong celebration of alpine recreation in the Pacific Northwest. Hosted and organized by the Mazamas, last year’s inaugural event was a success in many ways, with over 1,000 total attendees, more events, more clinics and more athletes than we’ve seen in one place for some time. We saw unprecedented support from sponsors and partners last year, and they are all pitching in again to make our 2nd year an even bigger success. Last year the festival also received some great online press from Rock and Ice Magazine and others. The Wenger blog (the Swiss Army Knife people) posted an article titled “The 5 Things You Missed at the Portland Alpine Festival,” so I thought I’d get a step ahead with this year’s highlights and make sure you all know 5 things not to miss in the 2014 Festival:
The 5 things you won’t want to miss at the 2nd Annual Portland Alpine Festival:
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Meet Himalayan climbing legend John Roskelley: Earlier this year, John Roskelley was awarded the 6th Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement award, (sometimes called the Bonatti award after its first recipient—Italian alpinist Walter Bonatti). Roskelley received the award for his notable expeditions to Nepal and India in the late 1970s and early 80s and for his storytelling skills. Roskelley is a prolific writer and among other things penned the first, and still most compelling, mountaineering book I’ve ever read, Nanda Devi. Roskelley is headlining The Summit, the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Festival, at the Oregon Convention Center on Saturday, Nov. 8.
Experience new films and stories: John Frieh starts our week of events on Nov. 4 with “No Rest for the Wicked” a presentation on his ascents last year in the Alaska Range. Next, Petzl athlete Graham Zimmerman will be presenting on Wednesday, Nov. 5 on his first ascent climbing that helped win him a nomination for the coveted Piolet d’Or award. Then, on Thursday, CAMP and Adidas athlete Libby Sauter presents “Jungle Wall-fare” sharing her latest major achievement—a challenging first ascent as part of a Mazama-supported expedition in Patagonia. Finally, Grivel athlete Aaron Mulkey (coldfear.com) will be premiering his film The Pursuit on Friday, Nov. 7. It’ll be a great movie night complete with beer, popcorn and pizza!
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Learn new tricks and skills from top Alpinists: This year the clinics and seminars section of the festival has nearly tripled in variety and size! John Frieh is offering seminars on Alpine Climbing Nutrition and Training for the Weekend Warrior. Libby Sauter is teaching a seminar on planning for Yosemite Climbing, along with a big wall climbing clinic, a slacklining clinic and a womens’ climbing clinic. Aaron Mulkey is giving a seminar on “type 3 fun” and climbing communications, an clinics on mixed climbing and ice climbing. Graham Zimmerman is instructing an introductory ice climbing clinic and another on mixed/ drytooling. Zimmerman is also doing a seminar that I’m particularly looking forward to on climbing without beta—or how to climb without planning.
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The Portland Ice Comp, Nov. 8: Celebrating its 8th year, Portland’s annual ice climbing competition will be bigger than ever. Started in 2005 by John Frieh, Markus Donaldson and the Portland Rock Gym, this competition is a benefit to help the Friends of Hyalite Canyon keep the most important ice climbing road in the country open for climbing all winter. The competition will
be emceed by Joe Josephson, leader of the Bozeman Ice Fest and all of our proathletes will also be there. If you have never tried ice or mixed climbing but think you might want to compete anyway, the Mazama ASI committee is hosting a series of day classes at the MMC leading up to the festival to get you tuned up and ready to win! PRG has reduced their day-pass for non-gym members so everyone can stop by and see the competition unfold. There will be food, beer and prizes all day. The Summit: Last but not least is the finale event—The Summit on Nov. 8. at the Oregon Convention Center. John Roskelley will present on his historic climbs in Nepal. There will be a vendor fair with premier gear companies showing off their latest equipment, an awards ceremony for the winners of the Portland Ice Comp (see #4) and a silent auction with tons of great items to help get you ahead on your Christmas shopping and support the Mazamas! Food is included in the ticket price. The event is catered by Pacific Wild and will feature small plate fare with vegetarian and gluten-free options.
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The Portland Alpine Festival would not be possible without the strong support we receive from our presenting sponsor Grivel, our local lead sponsors the Portland Rock Gym and the Mountain Shop, and the 20+ other sponsors and partners that are contributing this year. I also want to thank all of the (20+!) people who have been volunteering on the Portland Alpine Festival committee to arrange details and ensure the event is the best it can be. Tickets are on sale now at PORTLANDALPINEFEST.ORG—and I’ll see you there!
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Lee Davis, Executive Director
October/2014—3
ity n u m m o C Upcoming s t n e v E a m & Maza Craggin’ Classic When: Oct. 10–12 Where: Smith Rock State Park Register for Clinics: cragginclassic.com/#smith (starting Sept. 9) Join the American Alpine Club and C.A.M.P. for the annual Craggin’ Classic happening at Smith Rock State Park. There will be a climbers’ party at Redpoint Climbers Supply on Friday night, Oct. 10. The Crushfest Climbing Competition happens on Saturday, Oct. 11. Clinics and demos will be all day on Saturday, and we’ll have a stewardship day on Sunday, Oct. 12. Clinics will include: Beginning Aid Climbing, Performance Sport Climbing, Rock Warrior’s Way: Falling and Committment, Light & Fast Alpinism, Placing Your Own Gear and Anchors, Climber Self-Rescue, and more. Register for clinics starting on Sept. 9.
Mazama Discovery Night When: Monday, Oct. 20, 6:30–9 p.m. Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center Come join us at Discovery Night! This is a bright and bold celebration of what it means to be a Mazama. Discovery Night is a great opportunity for new and potential members to come and learn about the Mazamas. Come find out about our fun activities, circulate and visit with our experienced members, and learn about the different committees that make us work. A great time for current members to come and connect with friends, share experiences and enjoy the camaraderie. Feel free to bring a friend or two!
Mt. Hood National Forest Needs You! When: Saturday, Oct. 25 Where: Meet at the MMC and carpool to the Sandy River Basin/ Zigzag area. Please join us for our Fall Tree Planting Event, hosted by the Conservation Committee. The Mazamas are committed to becoming a carbon neutral organization and working to help sequester CO2 emissions. We are also committed to being good stewards of the environment, especially the fragile ecosystem around Mt. Hood, where we were founded. We continue to organize classes, climbs, and hikes for hundreds of outdoor enthusiasts every year. One of the best ways we can meet these goals is by participating in tree planting events in the Mt. Hood National Forest. We are proud to join our community partner, Sandy River Basin Watershed Council, for a fun day giving back to the forest and helping restore native vegetation. Please sign up by sending an email to conservation@ mazamas.org or calling the MMC office at 503-227-2345. 4 —Mazama Bulletin
Volunteer Opportunities by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org
Mazama Lodge Fall Work Party Saturday, October 25 The Mazama Lodge is hosting our annual fall work party to prepare for winter. We’ll cut, split and stack firewood; install new snow shutters; take down the trail rope and tepee; clean mattresses and tidy up the lodge. Time and weather permitting we’ll also do additional repair and maintenance items and trail work and landscaping. Join us from 9 a.m.–3 p.m. and bring your friends, we’d love to have at least 20 helpers! RSVP to Bob Stayton, Lodge Committee Chair, rstayton@comcast.net.
EdComm Volunteers Wednesday, October 15, 6:30 p.m. Education Committee manages the educational programs at the Mazamas. The committee works with its subcommittees to update curriculum and provide oversight and educational expertise. The committee also runs an education scheduling meeting in May to plan all educational activities for the upcoming class year. The committee meets every other month and works on projects remotely in between meetings. For more information, join the 3rd Wednesday of the month meeting, or contact Chair Marty Scott, martyscott@q.com.
Ballot Counters
MMC Clean-up Team
Monday, October 6, 1:30-5 p.m.
Ongoing
Nominating Committee seeks volunteers to assist with compiling and counting ballots for the annual election of Executive Council members. Volunteers can sign up for 3 hour shifts from 1:30 to 5:00 p.m. Sign up by contacting Amad Doratotaj, Nominating Committee Chair, amad4outdoors@gmail.com.
PAF Volunteers Monday–Saturday Nov. 3–8 The 2nd annual Portland Alpine Fest, a week-long series of presentations, clinics and events, is right around the corner! We need volunteers to help the day of each event with set-up, teardown, check-in and hosting. On Saturday, Nov. 8 we’ll need all hands on deck for The Summit, the culminating event of the PAF and our Mazama Annual Celebration. For more details and to sign up check out the PAF volunteer site, https://sites.google. com/site/alpinefestvolunteers/ or contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org.
Financial Affairs Committee Ongoing Help Mazama classes and committees understand their money! Join the Financial Affairs Committee to help prepare our annual budget, quarterly reforecasts and advise Executive Council on financial and accounting decisions. Contact Chair Chris Simmons at casimmons1@gmail.com.
Want to help keep the MMC tidy and presentable? Want to learn recycling from an expert? Not glorious work but much appreciated and something that will make a difference at our “home in town.” Contact Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com.
Mazama Families Hike Leader Ongoing The Mazama Families Committee is looking for hike leaders. You may be a current hike leader or be totally new, we will train you! Family hike leaders should be enthusiastic about working with kids, and must be willing to obtain a basic first aid certification and pass a background check. Contact Bob Murphy, families@mazamas.org
TKO: Volunteer Trail Work Party Saturday, October 11 Mazama partner Trailkeepers of Oregon will be working on drain/water issues before the rainy season starts, as well as installing a culvert and working on drainage on a steep trail at Camp Wilkerson, a campground in Columbia County. Free camping available for this work party. No prior trail work experience needed. TKO provides tools, safety equipment and training. Sign up at http://www. trailkeepersoforegon.org/events/
Lead Youth in the Outdoors Ongoing The Mazamas works with the Sierra Club Inspiring Connections Outdoors (ICO) program to plan and lead trail trips for Portland area youth through partnerships with organizations like Janus Youth. Volunteers must be first aid certified and pass a background check. For more information, join our first Thursday of the month meeting at 6:30 p.m. at the Sierra Club offices at 1821 SE Ankeny, or contact Kati Mayfield kati@ mazamas.org.
Trail Crew Volunteers Needed in Yosemite National Park! October Are you thinking of heading to Yosemite Valley this month? The Park is looking for volunteers to help restore popular climber trails. This opportunity includes free camping and gate passes! Contact adam@mazamas for more information.
Thank you!
The Research Committee would like to thank departing members Kathy Avalos and Robert Everhart for their hard work and dedication over the past several years.
October/2014—5
Mazamas in Yosemite: Climber Stewards
by Adam Baylor
A
team of Mazamas last month spent eight days in Yosemite National Park at Tuolumne Meadows enjoying alpine rock adventures and digging into some grueling trail work. The Mazama team consisted of Adam Baylor (staff), Sharon Birchfield, Ally Imbody, Micah Mayes, Jon Skeen (Advanced Rock graduates) and Adonay Solleiro (BCEP grad). We were joined by two Boy Scout rock climbing instructors from Camp Baldwin, Ore. along with multiple dirtbags, trail crew leaders and the Yosemite Climbing Rangers. The trip was organized by the Mazamas in partnership with the Climber Steward program which is grant funded by the
6 —Mazama Bulletin
American Alpine Club, Planet Granite (SF Bay area) and other Yosemite-focused nonprofits. The objective for the trip was to climb as much as possible and work on trails for four of the eight days. The climber trails that received attention were heavily eroded due to foot traffic up to popular climbs such as Daff Dome’s West Crack and Puppy Dome’s Puppy Crack. The team helped create rock stairs and rehabilitated hundreds of feet of social trails. The Mazama team acclimatized quickly at the 8,600 foot Meadows camp with nearby moderate climbs as well as two days of trail work. This helped with the upcoming main climb which consisted of 48 hours of hiking, climbing and a bivouac in the Yosemite wilderness. During this backcountry trip multiple teams climbed Dozier Dome via different routes such as
Holdless Horror (5.6), Bull Dozier (5.7) and Isostacy (5.8) to return to their packs at Lower Cathedral Lake and then hike cross-country to a campsite at Upper Cathedral Lake. The next morning single rope teams set out to climb Cathedral Peak (10,912’), a classic multi-pitch alpine adventure. While three teams reached the summit via the Southeast Buttress (5.6), one team ascended via the Eichorn’s Pinnacle, West Pillar Direct route (5.10b) and then onto the summit of Cathedral Peak. After another two days of trail work at Puppy Dome the climbing concluded with an ascent of South Crack (5.8) on Stately Pleasure Dome which offers amazing views of Tenaya Lake. Directly after the South Crack climb the Mazama team and friends enjoyed a guided geology tour from Yosemite’s head geologist, Greg Stock. His presentation focused on area
geology (alpine rock!) and included points on the many types of Yosemite granite, the tectonic role of the Sierra Nevada range and the mysterious trees rooted deep into Tenaya Lake. On the final day of the trip, fires erupted from lightning strikes in Little Yosemite Valley which is near Half Dome and Mount Starr King. Quickly, massive amounts of smoke poured into Tuolumne Meadows just as the Mazama team drove east for an evening at the hot springs. In return for the hard work that these volunteers gave to Yosemite, the park provided free camping and gate passes. If you are interested in joining a Mazama-led stewardship project like this in the future, please contact Adam Baylor, adam@ mazamas.org, for more information.
Page 6, left to right. Early morning light touches Yosemite’s high country as seen from Upper Cathedral Lake on Sept. 3, 2014. Photo: Ally Imbody. Yosemite climber stewards pose for a group photo after a day of trail work at Daff Dome on Labor Day 2014. Photo: Lucas Barth. Page 7, clockwise from upper right: Sharon Birchfield leads the chimney pitch on Cathedral Peak, Sept. 3, 2014 Photo: Micah Mayes. The view from the summit of Cathedral Peak with glimpses of Half Dome in the Valley. Photo: Micah Mayes. Ally Imbody performs rock work along the climber trail to Daff Dome, Sept 1, 2014. Photo: Adam Baylor. Cathedral Peak, as seen from its upper lake, where the Mazama team camped for a night in the Yosemite wilderness. Photo: Micah Mayes..
October/2014—7
Welcome New Mazamas! Sarah Andrus—South Sister Lorraine Arvin—Mt. St. Helens Stephen Ashby—South Sister Janet Blanke—South Sister Aurelien Botman—South Sister Mariah Bruns—Old Snowy William Dash—South Sister Larry Davidson—Mt. Shasta Rachel Davidson—Mt. Shasta Yassine Diboun—Mt. St. Helens Theresa Duras—Mt. Thielsen Allison Elliot—South Sister Rich Frank—Mt. St. Helens Nancy Gibbs—Mt. St. Helens Sarah Giffin—Mt. Adams Jerry Hargrove—Mt. Hood Evelyn Johnson—Mt. Hood Matt Kinney—South Sister Tyler Kuiawa—South Sister Wendy Leone—Mt. Hood James Little—Mt. Hood Vincent Marianiello—Mt. St. Helens
Zachary Martin—Old Snowy Cynthia Mosser—Symmetry Spire Cabe Nicksic—Mt. St. Helens Becky Orr—Mt. St. Helens Ralph Oyler—South Sister Gerson Rodriguez—Mt. St. Helens Kaitlin Rupert—Mt. St. Helens John Sadro Jr.—Glacier Peak Angelika Schaefer—Kilimanjaro Brien Sheedy—Mt. Everest Aaron Sieczkowski—Forbidden Peak Matthew Struck—Middle Sister Lizi Sukowatey—Mt. St. Helens Brian Thackeray—Mt. Adams Bob Vetter—Longs Peak Cheryl Willson—Mt. St. Helens Lynn Weigand—South Sister James Wende—Old Snowy
Deceased Mark Hanschka, Ralph Krellwitz, Chuck Carson
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NEW
+ + -
40
REINSTATED DECEASED
0
+
3
39
August 31, 2013: 3,356 August 31, 2014: 3,404
20s & 30s Mazamas October marks the true beginning of fall and the end of a wonderful summer of events for the 20s and 30s Mazamas. As the rainy season looms, it’s time to get up into the mountains one last time before the snow flies! October is one of the least predictable months of the year for weather, so all events are subject to change if the weather outside is frightful. As always, more events will be added as we approach October—check out our website (http://mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s/) and our Meetup page (http://www.meetup.com/Adventurous-Young-Mazamas/) for the latest events!
Thursday, Oct. 2—Committee Meeting Would you like to get involved with the 20s and 30s Mazamas? We are looking for volunteers! We invite everyone to come join our monthly committee meeting at 6:30 p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. We will review the past month’s activities and plan the future month. We love guests at our meetings and we often go out for libations afterwards.
Friday, Oct. 10–Sunday, Oct. 12—Crooked River Grasslands Mini-Rogaine Come join in on a hike with a twist! We will join the Columbia River Orienteering Club’s (CROC) Crooked River Grassland Mini-Rogaine. What the heck is a Rogaine? It’s a cross country navigation team race across 12-square miles collecting as many control points as you can in 6 hours, using map and compass only. Check out CROC’s website for more details. It’s helpful to have basic map reading and compass abilities, also a good sense of humor! While it is considered a race, we will mostly be focused on practicing map and compass skills in a ‘real world’ setting. Expect traversing hilly, generally open desert grassland, with occasional open juniper forest, and lots of small rocky outcrops. On Sunday we will head over to either Smith Rock State Park or Cove Palisades State Park for a hike before heading home. Group limited to 10. Mileage: approximately 10 miles on Saturday and 6 miles on Sunday. Elevation gain: ~2,500 ft. Drive: ~300 miles RT. Cost: $40 members/$50 nonmembers (includes $35 Rogaine event fee and camping) and mileage for drivers. Leader: Sarah Miller.
Sunday, Oct. 12—Hike: Observation Peak Let’s go for some big mountain views in the Trapper Creek Wilderness in SW Washington! We’ll hike to the summit of Observation Peak, with a short side trip to a spectacular viewpoint at Sisters Rocks. On a clear day, the summit offers views of Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mount St. Helens, and Mt. Hood. Wilderness area; group limited to 12. Hike: 6.8 miles, 1,500 feet elevation gain. Drive: 120 miles RT. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, in the southeast corner of the parking garage, 8:30 a.m. Leader: Keith Dechant, keith.dechant@gmail.com. Advance signup required. Please contact leader to sign up.
Saturday, Oct. 18–Sunday, Oct. 19: Backpacking the Middle Santiam Wilderness Looking for an adventure that will linger with you long into the fall? Join us for a trip into the dark, primeval gloom of the Middle Santiam Wilderness, one of western Oregon’s least-known and least-visited places. We’ll leave early on Saturday and drive
The 20s and 30s Mazamas (formerly AYM) lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s and, of course, anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.
to the Shedd Camp Trailhead. We’ll cross both the Middle Santiam River and Pyramid Creek on foot before hiking through a stupendous old-growth forest on the way to seldom-visited Donaca Lake. We’ll return either the way we came or via a loop involving decommissioned forest roads. Be prepared for anything—rough and confusing roads, rain, snow, bears, Sasquatch —the hike leader has not been to this area before so the trip is quite exploratory. That being said, if the weather forecast is bad we’ll do a trip into the Metolius River canyon instead, where the weather is often much nicer in October. The trip is limited to 8 participants. Please email the hike leader to sign up. Details are available upon request only. Hike: 13 miles RT, 1,700 feet elevation gain; drive: 270 miles RT. Leader: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail. com). Advance signup required. Please contact leader to sign up.
Monday, Oct. 20—Mazama Discovery Night Stop by the 20s & 30s table at Discovery Night! This is a bright and bold celebration of what it means to be a Mazama. It’s a great opportunity for new and potential members to learn about the Mazamas. Discovery Night is also a great time for current members to connect with friends, share experiences and enjoy the camaraderie. Feel free to bring a friend or two!
Monday, Oct. 20: Pub Night: Base Camp Brewery Tap Room This month we’ll be at Base Camp Brewery at 930 SE Oak St. for happy hour. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages. This is a great time to find out what we’re up to, to plan your next adventure and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. Bring your stories and photos from your recent adventures; extra points for pics from Mazama events. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe on patio if the weather allows! Food carts are just across the street if sustenance is needed.
Sunday, October 26: Hike—Olallie Plateau Loop Let’s get up to the mountains one last time before it snows! Join us for a beautiful loop around the Olallie Plateau, where there are more lakes than people in late October. We’ll start at Olallie Lake and hike to several lakes, the summit of Potato Butte and a few meadows before returning to Olallie Lake. If the weather threatens we’ll hike the Riverside Trail along the Clackamas River instead. Plan on a stop for dinner in Estacada or Portland, depending on where we end up. Hike is limited to 12 for logistical purposes. Hikers without proper winter clothing and rain gear will be turned away. Hike: 9 miles, 1,000 feet EG; drive: 154 miles. Meet up at Clackamas Town Center, 8 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail.com). Advance signup required, check our Meetup page.
October Hike Leader Profile: Matt Reeder 20s & 30s Leader Since: 2009 Mazama Member Since: 2009 Favorite Activity to Lead: Hikes and pub nights Mazama Activities: 20s and 30s Mazamas Committee Chair, Hike Leader I became a Mazama member because... I love hiking, camping and climbing with fun people who want to explore the Pacific Northwest. I’ve always had so much fun hiking with the Mazamas! I became a leader because... I love taking people to new and beautiful places, and I love leading and organizing events. Leadership Philosophy: My events are collaborative—although I plan them meticulously, I want everybody to lead with me. Everybody leads on my hikes, and everybody should have a voice. Favorite Leader Treat: Chips and salsa! Personal Information: I spent much of my childhood exploring the Opal Creek and Mount Jefferson Wilderness Areas with my family, and I fell in love with hiking and camping at a young age as a result. Even today, these are the places I lead the most events despite the driving distance from Portland. In 2013 I published my first hiking guide, Off the Beaten Trail: 50 Fantastic Unknown Hikes in Northwest Oregon and Southwest Washington. I am currently hard at work on my second book! When not on the trail or volunteering with the Mazamas, I spend my time teaching, reading, writing, obsessing about baseball and basketball and relaxing with my lovely wife Wendy.
October/2014—9
Planet Granite.
The Source.
ClubSport Ascent Climbing Center
The Rainy Season Approaches ... r o o d n I o t e Your Guid Climbing
Stay in shape in the off season.
You’ve been climbing hard all summer. Getting stronger, more efficient and you don’t want to lose all that hard won fitness over the rainy months. Or perhaps you didn’t have the climbing summer you were hoping for and plan to embark upon a winter training program to be ready for next summer. Either way, the best way to train for climbing is to actually practice climbing. In the Portland/Metro area we are lucky to have five gyms to choose from where we can hone our climbing skills. We reached out to all of the gyms to provide you with this brief guide on where to climb. Each gym provided their stats as well as a brief write-up about why you should climb at their gym.
Stats • Wall square footage: 11,500 sq. feet textured climbing surface. • Height: 25–45 feet. • Bouldering, top roping, lead climbing—wide variety of terrain, cracks and overhangs. • Host of four national youth competitions and local competitions. • Other amenities: full service restaurant and bar; childcare available at a small additional charge. • Hours: M-F 6 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 8 a.m.–6 p.m.
Location/Info 18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Road, Tigard, OR. clubsports.com/oregon/climbing-center
Rates • Day: $16 • Punch pass: $99 (11-punch pass; no expiration) Featuring a new name, ClubSport has been offering a state of the art climbing facility since the mid 1990s when it took over a space that was a former Costco store. During its long history, it has managed to create a consistent tradition of great route setting and programming. One common misconception about ClubSport is that you have to have a membership to climb there. The climbing center has an affordable day pass and a multipunch card option which now features no expiration. Check out the rock gym’s new 360 cam tour on the website.
The Circuit.
The Circuit Stats • Wall square footage: 10,000 sq. feet (SW), 14,000 sq. feet (NE), 19,000 sq. feet (Tigard). • Height: 14 feet (SW), 8–17 feet (NE), 14 feet (Tigard). • Bouldering. • Other amenities (varies by location): Training & fitness areas, slacklines, dedicated kids area, yoga. • Hours: varies by location.
Location/Info NE: 410 NE 17th Ave., Portland, OR. SW: 6050 SW Macadam, Ave., Portland, OR. Tigard: 16255 SW Upper Boones Ferry Road, Tigard, OR. thecircuitgym.com
Rates • Day: $14/$12 student • Month: $67/$57 student/$137 family of three; with EFT contract (11-month minimum) $57/$47 student/$117 family of three • Punch pass: $112/$96 student (10 punch pass, no expiration) • Annual prepaid: $579/$479 student
THE CIRCUIT SW is Portland’s original bouldering gym. Built in 2005, SW remains our down-home community center where our oldest members and hardest climbers train and socialize on the steepest walls among our three facilities. The smallest of the three at 10,000 square feet, SW remains an original hub of the Portland climbing community. SW has a full range of terrain, including a top-out boulder, over 275 boulder problems, 14 foot walls, and 30+ new routes set every Tuesday. The gym also features a full training & fitness area, 2 slacklines, and a dedicated kids area. Hours: M–F 9 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sat/Sun 8 a.m.–11 p.m. THE CIRCUIT NE was built in 2010. Affectionately called “Big Circuit” by our employees, NE is a 14,000 square foot gym in central Portland and by far the most popular of the three. Every weekday after work, NE is the place to be to climb with your friends and a place to make new ones. The space features two massive top-out boulders, walls ranging The Circuit. from 8-17 feet, over 300 boulder problems, and 30+ new routes set every Thursday. Our NE location is also home to three slacklines, a full training & fitness area, and a dedicated kids area. Hours: M/W/F 9 a.m.–11 p.m.; T/TH 7 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sat/Sun 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Established in August of 2014, THE CIRCUIT TIGARD is our largest gym at over 19,000 square feet. The space is state-of-the-art with two huge top-out boulders, 14 foot walls, over 200 boulder problems, and new routes every Friday. The gym features wide isles, a full training and fitness area, two slacklines, and our largest kids area. Tigard is also home to two state-of-theart yoga studios—a new direction for The Circuit that we’ve poured our heart and soul into. The Circuit Yoga has a breath of its own with a range of classes offered daily and taught by the Portland Metro area’s best instructors. Hours: M–F 6 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sat/Sun 8 a.m.–11 p.m.
The Circuit.
October/2014—11
Portland Rock Gym (PRG) Stats • Wall square footage: 15,000 sq. feet; • Up to 120 routes (60 lead, 60 top-rope) • Height: 40-foot top rope and lead walls • 150–180 boulder problems • Other amenities: Five True Blue auto-belay systems, Finger and System Boards, Pro Shop, Weight Room, Cardio Machines, Yoga Classes • Hours: M/W/F 11 a.m.–11 p.m., T/TH 7 a.m.11 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–6 p.m.
Location/Info 21 NE 12th Ave., Portland, OR. portlandrockgym.com
Planet Granite Stats • Wall square footage: 30,500 sq. feet; 18,000 holds • 150+ routes, 200+ boulder problems • 18 cracks (4 adjustable) • Height: 55-foot roped walls; 18-foot ball boulder. • Other amenities: Two yoga and fitness studios, two comprehensive training areas, one bouldering ramp, showers/ towels, lockers, dry sauna. • Hours: M-F 6 a.m.–11 p.m., Sat 8 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 8 a.m.–6 p.m.
Location/Info 1405 NW 14th Ave., Portland, OR. planetgranite.com/locations/ portland/pdx_faq.php
Limited Introductory Rates • Day: $18/$14 student/$12 child • Morning pass: $14 • Month: $67/$54 student/$110 family of two • Punch pass: $165, 10-punch • Annual: $737/$594 student/$1,210 family of two
12 —Mazama Bulletin
Rates
Planet Granite. Planet Granite was founded in the Bay Area in 1994 as an elite training facility for climbers at a time when few other such businesses existed. It started simply as an idea that climbers, this small fringe group of athletes, deserved a world-class facility with sport specific training including climbing, yoga and fitness. Our founder, Micky Lloyd, was among the first to design and build climbing specific training tools like hydraulically operable walls and adjustable cracks. In the 20 years since we opened, Planet Granite has grown to become a place not only used by some of the best climbers in the world to train, but also a place to introduce beginners to a sport we love. The new Portland facility features 20,000 square feet of custom Walltopia designs for roped climbing up to 55 feet high, including 18 cracks, four of which are hydraulically adjustable. The bouldering area includes 10,000 square feet of Walltopia’s signature 3D walls and 18-foot high ball bouldering. Two yoga and fitness studios in the facility will host a suite of studio-quality classes. Furthermore, a comprehensive training area, for both climbers and functional fitness enthusiasts alike, offers everything from Olympic weight lifting equipment to a variety of climbing specific tools such as an adjustable systems board and the Atomik Bombs. We are psyched to be here!
• Day: $15/$13 student/military • Day Pre-3 p.m. (M–F only): $10 • Month: $63/$52 w/ annual contract or for students/$43 student w/ annual contract/$150 family of three • Punch pass: $135 (10-punch pass; 1–year expiration) • Annual prepaid: $572/$1276 families of three/$473 student/military Founded by owner Gary Rall in 1988, the Portland Rock Gym is the second oldest indoor rock climbing gym in the country. With its mixture of rope climbing and bouldering, top-rope routes, and towering, overhanging lead walls, PRG offers a realistic climbing experience for beginning and experienced climbers alike. PRG continues to offer a world-class indoor climbing experience for beginning and experienced climbers alike. At any given time, you’ll find 150– 180 boulder problems throughout the gym. There are approximately 60 lead and 60 top-rope lines allowing up to 120 routes at a given time. Routes at PRG run the full gamut of grades. Currently, you’ll find most boulder problems in the V0-V6 range, and the majority of top-rope routes falling between 5.8 and 5.11-. Lead routes tend to average slightly higher. The variety of course setters and two month route rotation guarantee a positive experience no matter what your training goals. In addition, you’ll find a weight room, cardio machines, yoga classes, and various finger and system boards to round out your workout. PRG has been a part of the Portland climbing community since it’s humble beginning back in 1988. Much of this success is due to the accessibility of PRG and the beginner-friendly atmosphere. We love being a part of Portland and sharing the positive benefits and fun of climbing with everyone. PRG has been locally owned and operated throughout its existence and plans to remain in Portland for many years to come.
The Source Stats • Wall Square footage: 6,200 sq feet • 68 routes, 34 top rope and lead lanes, 60+ boulder problems • Height: 36-foot top rope and lead, 20-foot youth wall, 14-foot bouldering, 10-foot youth bouldering • Other amenities: Autobelays, fully airconditioned, warm-up mezzanine, student and family discounts, classes for every age and ability. • Hours: M-F 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat 9 a.m.–9 p.m., Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m.
Location/Info 1118 Main Street, Vancouver, WA. sourceclimbing.com
Rates • Day: $12 • Month: $55/$46 EFT with $27 start up fee (no contract or cancellation fees; option to freeze) • Punch Pass: $96, 10-punch • Annual Prep-Paid: $472
The Source.
Climbers go to the Source for great route-setting and friendly staff with flexible membership options in a clean, well-lit facility. The routes are set by active local climbers with as much as 30 years of outdoor climbing experience. The rates are affordable, and there are no cancellation fees or expiration dates. The community welcomes every climber, so don’t be surprised if they remember your name on your second visit. The Source is a sleek, modern facility you will enjoy climbing in. Consider a membership if you live/work in Vancouver, Camas, or north Portland. Otherwise, take advantage of the affordable 10-punch pass with no expiration date or sign up for one of our classes and clinics. The Source is located on Main Street in Vancouver only 15 minutes from downtown Portland, making it a great option for those needing a change of scene from their regular gym. The Source.
Stoneworks Stats • Height: 20–34 feet • Top route options include five auto belays, and eight manual belay.
Location/Info 6775 SW 111th Ave., Beaverton, OR. belay.com
Rates • Day: $11/$10 college student • Month: $46/$40 college student • Punch pass: $40 5-punch; $68 10–punch (exp. 90 days) An all-in-one climbing gym, Stoneworks has been open for climbers since 1993. We boast amazing lead terrain on our 34-foot walls that includes a 25-foot lead arch and a free hanging stalactite. Our top rope walls range in height from 34 feet to 20 feet and include five auto-belays and eight manual top roping stations, allowing everyone to try our naturally textured walls, hand cracks, and chimneys. The bouldering landscape incorporates a cave, an expansive roof section, a top-out boulder, and three high-ball areas, the newest of which takes boulderers 20 feet above our customized, three-foot padded flooring. We offer introductory belay, sport, and trad-climbing classes that will allow all climbers to make the shift from indoors to outdoors safely. Our newest additions, a café and Anti-Gravity Climbing Gear Store, will open in late fall. Come join the great community of friends and family who promote a fun and helping atmosphere. Enjoy, climb, and make new friends!
October/2014—13
Ozone: The Best Climbing in Portland? by Topher Dabrowski
M
ention rock climbing and Oregon in the same sentence and most people immediately think Smith Rock State Park and with good reason. It’s an international climbing destination, hosts hundreds of quality routes and rose to recent fame by establishing a plethora of five-star hard sport routes. But this isn’t an article about Smith Rock, it’s about a local Portland crag, one that isn’t even in Oregon, but has been dubbed the “best rock climbing in Portland.” If you haven’t heard of Ozone then you are definitely missing out on what most Vancouver and Portland climbers would agree is the best rock within an hour of the city.
The author climbing at Ozone. Photo: Benjamin Grandy.
Back in 1984 Jim Opdycke spotted a cliff across the river when he was driving on I-84. Not too long afterwards he went and explored the area just west of Cape Horn and discovered a long overgrown cliff band about 180 feet at its highest point. The first routes to go in, Opdycke Crack and Eight Is Enough, were climbed by Jim and Mike Jackson. For years the cliff sat relatively quiet with just a few more routes being climbed until 2005. That’s when Kevin Rauch heard about Ozone and arrived with a whirring drill in hand and an appetite for first ascents. Rauch, in conjunction with Jon Stewart, Kevin Evansen, Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith and Glen Hartman did the majority of route and trail development at Ozone. Ozone is an 800 foot long cliff comprised of basaltic andesite and resulted from the outpourings of lava from volcanic vents. The rock was likely exposed when the massive Missoula Floods raged through the area during the last ice age. Sitting up above the Columbia River Gorge in Washington, the crag enjoys breezes from the river and shade from tall fir trees which helps keep it cool even in the heat of the summer. Ozone rock offers
climbers a variety of routes from 5.6 to 5.12 in grade including cracks for traditional lines, but what you will mostly discover are routes that combine cracks and fractured faces. These climbs lend themselves to the use of both gear and bolted protection, so it’s a good idea to have at least a small rack available to open up the options. Currently there are approximately 80-100 routes that have been established at Ozone, about 25 of these are pure sport climbs and the rest require at least some gear for protection. Recently there has been new route development as well as some retrofitting of existing routes with bolts where previously gear was required or to improve the safety of the route. This reworking is definitely following the climbing tradition of getting permission from the first ascender or party before any changes are made to an established route. To visit the crag, drive east from Vancouver, Washington, on State 14 from I-205 on the north side of the Columbia River. The crag is slightly west of the high point in the road at mile post 23.7 and is on the south side of the highway (about 1/3 mile east of Belle Center Road). Park on a wide section of paved shoulder (third pullout west of the road high point) to access a narrow dirt trail that angles down eastward under the bluff. As you follow the narrow climbers’ trail from the roadside parking area the trail gradually descends into a thick forest of fir trees. The initial steep cliff section at the far west end of the entire Ozone Wall is about 40 feet in height, but quickly becomes taller as you continue to descend to the trail down to the central portion of the crag.
Ozone Sport Lines For those inclined to only clip bolts or who haven’t yet perfected the art of gear placement here is a list of routes requiring only quick draws. A 60m rope should get you off any of these routes.
• 5.9 **Kung Fu— the crux arrives at the end of the route • 5.9 ***Dirty Jugs— this has some awkward moves and is a long route • 5.6 *Stairway to Heaven— great for beginners to lead • 5.8 ***Numb Nuts— consistent quality and a fun route • 5.9 ***Standing Ovation • 5.9 **No Nuts— similar to its neighbor but more varied • 5.10a ***Helm’s Deep— contrary to the guide book, this route has been retrofitted with a new bolt so no gear is required • 5.10a ***Carrots for Everyone— super fun route • 5.10a **Kamikaze— a thought provoking crux section • 5.10a ***Step Child— looks steep but holds are great • 5.10b **Party at The Moon Tower • 5.10b ***May Day— shares Kamikaze’s top anchors • 5.10c ***Dirty Beauty— start on Dirty Jugs and then step over onto the Room With A View ledge, continue on the upper pitch of Sweeping Beauty • 5.10c ****High Plains Drifter— one of my favorites at Ozone • 5.10c **Burrito Killa— link this up with Rolling Thunder for a longer pitch • 5.10d *Rolling Thunder— this route is being retrofitted (6/14) with an exit bolt to help protect the second from a bad fall in the crux • 5.11a **House of Pain • 5.11b Gophers Gone Wild • 5.11c ***Route 66— done in 2 pitches • 5.11d ***Beyond The Glory • 5.12a ***The Crumbling— stik clip the first bolt • 5.12a Hell Boy— variation to Step Child • 5.12b ***Grace • 5.12c Dark Lord • 5.12c *Angle of Dangle
*indicate the quality of the route 14 —Mazama Bulletin
Book Review:
The Trad Climbers Bible, by John Long and Peter Croft by Barry Maletzky You know how most book titles these days always have a subtitle? It’s usually set off after a colon, like Out of the Shadows: How My Life Was Ruined Because My Parents Liked My Older Brother Better Than Me (that’s actually true). Well, this “Bible,” not really divinely inspired, could have used one because it’s guilty of false advertising. This work is not so much a “how to” as a “what heroic deeds I did and why.” That should not detract from its value, as I shall explain, but it raises the question of what Long and Croft, two of the most accomplished rock climbers of their generation (1970s through the 1990s), were thinking when they conceived the “Bible” moniker in the title. If you want to learn to rock climb, this tome will not teach you the basics. In fact, it doesn’t even pretend to instruct, but rather to inform, a different matter entirely. It consists of two types of text: I suppose the main parts are stories of specific big-wall climbs each of these rock athletes have put up; main because they are printed against a white background.
In tan, and comprising about half the book, are “side-bars,” actually essays espousing the philosophy of traditional rock climbing, the “trad” of the title. Long and Croft define trad as do-it-yourself climbing: placing your own pro, carrying your own gear, and cleaning every pitch thereafter. No red-pointing, prior route inspection, top-roping or bolting for these stone warriors (although they admit to occasionally “cheating” when the route gets a bit too scary). Flashing and on-sighting are given first place in their hierarchy of big-wall ascents. We punters and squatters can only read and admire their feats but I can’t help but wonder how they can recall every pitch and each tiny imperceptible smear and hold on the thousands of routes they’ve accomplished—I can only remember abject fear grasping for a bucket hold on most of the climbs I’ve done, including last weekend’s scrambles, but perhaps perception sharpens as difficulty increases. The authors at first seem to slander sport and gym climbing, with drilled-in bolts and pre-formed holds, but they ease up a bit as the tales unfold, finally allowing to each his
or her own style. The tales they narrate, each quite brief (you can read each one in about five minutes), are entertaining though repetitive, detailing each agonizing and sketchy hold as they climb walls as bald as the top of my head, well above their last piece, running out hundreds of feet and seeming to embrace the prospect of winding up in a porcelain urn. There is the usual false modesty inherent in all climbing tales but there is more: Croft, and particularly Long, are brilliant, if obtuse, writers. John Long especially masquerades prose as poetry and the book is worth consuming alone for his mastery of language and fluidity of thought, even though he becomes so abstract and metaphysical at times, you would be forgiven for thinking this to be a tract on Zen philosophy rather than an
continued on next page
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Book Review, continued from previous page exposition on the how and why of climbing. His writing is beautiful, even if at times it’s frankly hard to understand what Long is trying to convey. It’s sort of like modern art or poetry—you interpret the meaning, not the artist. Each terse chapter, authored alternately by Long or Croft, includes those sidebars, written presumably by the chapter’s writer, which try to add to the climb described by expounding on topics such as the values of climbing with a mentor; understanding climbing on differing rock types; the torture of off-width crack climbing; how to properly rack your gear; how to gracefully pass a slower party (never a problem for me); the importance of scoping out weather patterns; minimizing rope drag; the value of studying and appreciating the history of early ascents; and especially for the Northwest climber, the dangers inherent in climbing in the rain. Thus there is some instructional value in the book but it should not be seen as an educational text, but rather as an enjoyable read for rock jocks and punters alike. Almost all the stories are of big wall ascents, though Croft does briefly describe alpine link-ups. The book assumes you know the basics—non-climbing hikers need not apply. These authors emphasize what many
expedition and siege-style volumes lack, despite their more compelling and consistent tales: that taking risks in climbing should be fun; that challenges, whether 5.7 or 5.12, are what makes life exciting; and that you can never truly decipher what lies inside that most mysterious of objects—the climber’s brain. Fortunately, free soloing sans cord is frowned upon, though the authors allow that “if that’s your thing, then do it.” I find faults in the book but they are minor and others might disagree: It is a bit dated, despite its publication in 2014—the routes described are mostly 5.10 through 5.12c whereas today’s super crankers are pushing 5.15; the color photos gracing almost every page are gorgeous but often untitled and the climbers often un-helmeted, even on routes that are obviously prone to falling rock and resulting traumatic brain injuries. Moreover, I would have liked some exposition about down-climbing as an oft-ignored aspect of our sport; I would also have preferred the authors’ honest assessment of whether the number of falls should be taken into account when boasting about first free ascents. Long, in particular, raves about speed climbing: Are we to take the next steps in timing our ascents, then rating them by haste rather than by style? Or should we transform climbing into an Olympic-style
speed event? In addition, the climbs, perhaps by necessity, are California—and particularly Yosemite-centered; the grand complexity of messy mixed alpine climbing is largely ignored in favor of the adhesive granite walls of the Sierra Nevada, even though blocky, brushy alpine ascents also often feature technical rock work; thus in just two photos out of hundreds can the reader spot any snow. Still, these complaints come from a North Cascadesobsessed reviewer so my bias must be taken into account. Overall, despite its misleading title, this is a book many Mazama members will enjoy, as much for the style of its writing and the motivation it provides to get on the stone and explore your limits as for its gripping tales of hairy first ascents, most of them on-sight and free from pre-placed protection. In short, you should consume this book for inspiration as much as for technical advice. The authors’ philosophy of exploration, curiosity and enjoyment of the moment is as charismatic and seductive as are their individual personalities. For these rock jocks, to not take some risks is to die while living; for them, peril and danger are when life catches fire. Long, J. & Croft, P. The Trad Climber’s Bible. Falcon Guides: Helena Montana, 2014. Mazama Library number 796.5.L85tr
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16 —Mazama Bulletin
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International Travel & Climbing: El Potrero Chico, Mexico by Kim Crihfield
W
hat’s not to love about multi-pitch sport climbing on limestone, cheap food and beer, friendly locals and sunny weather? Need a climbing escape from Portland’s gray winters? Consider a trip to El Potrero Chico. This translates to “The Little Corral,” which is a beautiful limestone canyon in northern Mexico. There are quite a few routes in the 5.85.9 range, but 5.10 and up is where the routes get really fun. There are many multi-pitch routes that feature 5.9-5.10a climbs. The longest sport route in the Potrero is the famous Time Wave Zero, which features 23 pitches, the hardest of which is 5.12a. One of my favorite multi-pitch climbs is Satori. It is best saved for a very hot day, since it is in the shade and can be quite windy. It is a bit of a hike, which means it is usually yours for the taking. It is seven pitches in all, with 5.10c being the toughest pitch on the route. The views of the canyon from the top are stunning, and the rappel is straightforward and right back down the route. Other fun multi-pitch climbs include Jungle Mountaineering, Treasure of the Sierra Madre, Black Cat Bone, Poncho Villa Rides Again, Snot Girlz, Space Boyz and Estrallita. Several of these climbs have confusing rappels, so be sure to consult the guidebook before you start climbing. The biggest financial investment you’ll make is the $700 ticket in to Monterrey, in the northern Mexican state of Nuevo León. It is a 45-minute drive southwest of the Monterrey airport to the small town of Hidalgo. The climbing area is another two miles from Hidalgo. Options for lodging include camping at La Posada or La Pagoda for around $6 a night, a hotel room for $1030/night, or a rental home within walking distance to the crag. A friend and I rented a small studio home for $600 for the month. The food is plentiful, fresh and mostly local. Tamale shops, the local grocery store and the Tuesday market were our primary food sources. There is also a coffee shop in town
called El Buho (“The Owl”) which serves tasty local coffee and pastries, and offers (mostly reliable) WiFi access. After a visit to the market, we were able to whip up tortillas (also fresh and locally made) with avocado, cilantro, tomatoes, cheese, salsa, and chard. There are also amazing mangos and papayas available, which make a great addition to the local eggs for breakfast. We ate like royalty for a fraction of what the same produce would have cost at Whole Foods! Many people question the safety of a trip to an area where drug cartels are active. This should be taken into consideration when planning a trip to the area, but should not rule it out. There was an incident near the climbing area two years ago, which involved a drug cartel party. Multiple members of a band that played at the party were abducted and murdered by a rival cartel. I am not aware of any incidents of violence in the area that have involved climbers. My approach has been to fly to Monterrey during daylight hours, since travel after dark is not recommended. Airport pick-ups can be arranged through La Posada or Magic Ed (see links below) and typically cost around $20. Travel via toll roads seem to be safer than the smaller local roads. Rockfall is another safety issue that needs to be taken into consideration. There are always new routes going up, and the less traveled they are, the more likely rock fall will be encountered. Also, the nature of the multi-pitch climbing means that there will usually be parties above you on a climb or on any crag you visit. Helmets are recommended, and auto-locking belay devices should be considered. The best time to plan a trip is typically October through early March. New Year’s Eve is a popular time to visit (and there are plenty of parties in the area), but temperatures can be chilly. I have had days in February that were simply too cold to leave the sleeping bag, and others that were too hot to climb anywhere but the deepest shade. Typically by mid-February the temperatures are reliably warm enough to leave your down jacket back at camp. It is definitely easier and more fun to navigate the area if you speak some Spanish. You will also need to exchange dollars for pesos
Potrero entry gate.
either before leaving home or at the airport in Monterrey. No article on El Potrero Chico would be complete without a mention of local characters Magic Ed and Dottie Cross. Magic Ed has been living in the area for many years and has established a large number of routes. His website (see below) features local home rentals, airport pickup service, great photos and general information on the area. He also provides a climbing guidebook. Dottie Cross is a retired blackjack dealer from Las Vegas who has established Fiona Animal Refuge, an animal shelter and veterinary clinic. She has worked tirelessly to feed, vaccinate, spay, neuter and treat mange in the large homeless dog population in the area. She has established an adoption program and provides access to veterinary care for the many families in the area that cannot afford it. I was fortunate enough to join her and her vet, Jaime, on one of their twice-weekly rounds. We visited local homes in Hidalgo to vaccinate dogs and treat their mange. They also provided bags of dog food to the families that couldn’t afford to buy food for their animals. We returned a few pets to their owners after a stay in the clinic and also delivered locally-made dog houses to the pooches that spend all their days outdoors. We also dropped loads of food out on the streets to feed local dogs. Please visit her website below. For more information on the area, visit the following links: Magicedspotrerochico.com • Potreropups.org • Potrerochico.org (La Posada campground, restaurant and motel) October/2014—17
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS *May 30, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Alex Fox. Jason Hodge, Kiska Kosakowski, Sarah Lydecker, *Aaron Nelson, Jim Miller, Krista Mugavero, Carianne Nieuwstraten, Chris Tinnin *June 11, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Martin Gillen. Stephen Baker, Carie Behe, Tammy Gillen, Bryan Oates, Trozell Weaver July 27, Mt. Stone, West Ridge. Leader: Vaqas Malik, Asst: Brian Murray. Neal Bridgnell, Mike Klepfer, Josha Moss, Jeff Nastoff, Margaret Olczak, Ryan Opdahll, Christine Petersen, Naveen Ramaswamy, Rich Schuler, Ankush Varma Aug. 3, Eldorado Peak, East Ridge. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Eileen Kiely. Bri Berglund, Brian Klump, Meggan Low, Brian Martin, Chris Tentaur Killmer, Michelle Van Kleeck Aug. 8, Mt. Thielsen, Standard. Leader: John Godino, Asst: Joe Eberhardt. Sebastian Button, Chris Gumke, Ryan Johnson, Samuel Kimerling, Sarah Kydecker, Steven Loos, Josha Moss, Joe Westersund, John Wilson, Christine Yankel Aug. 8, Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Dave Aerne. Grant Causton, Eric Einspruch, George Keepers, Mary Monnat, Tommy Norwood Aug. 9, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Lori LaDuke, Asst: Kelly Fagan. Cheryl Frankenfield, Kate Hibschman, Reuel Kurzet, Richard LaDuke
Aug. 15, Mt. Washington (OR), North Ridge. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Kirstin Labudda. Conner Dowling, Ryan Reed Aug. 15, South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Leader: Ania Wiktorowicz, Asst: Jeff Litwak. Andy Bauer, Karlene Cox, Jason Hodge, Tim Jones, Tami Jones, Austin Schutz, Francisco Villa, Sahmie Yun, Dmitriy Zasyatkin, Stephanie Zasyatkina Aug. 16, Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Joe Eberhardt. Dave Aerne, Larry Beck, Amy Graham, Kurt Gusinde, Karl Helser, Barry O’Mahony, Lisa Romano
Aug. 16, Mt. Stone, West Ridge. Leader: Linda E. Mark, Asst: Bruce Wyse. trauma & PTSD Aug. 9, Eldorado, East Ridge. Leader: & PTSDVaqas Malik, Asst: Kevin Clark. Pushkar Sarah Lydecker, Daniel Mick, Brett Nair, Anxiety &Linn,Depression Mark Stave, Sara Stille Dixit, Chris Fanshier, Michael Jeff & Depression Addictions Nastoff, Margaret Olczak, Zhan Shi, Aug. 17, Forbidden Peak, West ns Ankush Varma, Bruce Wyse, Alexis Yeh Ridge. Leader: Vaqas Malik, Asst: Jon Stress Skeen. Nicole Castonguay, Ally Imbody, EMDR Ankush Varma, Brad Wood
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18 —Mazama Bulletin
Descending Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge. during a Mazama climb. Photo: Vaqas Malik.
Aug. 17, Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail. Leader: Linda E. Mark, Asst: Bruce Wyse. Sarah Lydecker, Daniel Mick, Brett Nair, Mark Stave, Sara Stille
Aug. 21, First Mother Mountain, Knapsack Pass. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Kelly Bacon, Cecille Beyl, Buzz Lindahl, Kelly Marlin, Larry Murry
Aug. 17, South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Leader: Bob Murphy, Asst: Eric Einspruch. Josie Blanke, Charles Blanke, Luca Einspruch, Ruby Kofron, Kenry Kofron, Corinna Kupelweisser, Jan Martens, Andrea McKee, Sam O’Leary
Aug. 22, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: David Zeps, Asst: Kathleen Hahn. Mark Fowler, Jean Hildebrand, Stacy Redding Aug. 22, Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge. Leader: Ellen Gradison, Asst: Garry Stephenson. Dan Gibson, Jeffery Gordon, Kim Hefty, Kellie O’Donnell, Cody Shotola-Schiewe, Gabriel Starr
Aug. 17, Old Snowy, SnowGrass Flats. Leader: Lori LaDuke, Asst: Howard Buck. Bryan Dawson, Richard LaDuke, Carianne Nieuwstraten Aug. 17, Mt. Cruiser, SW Face. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst: Hannah Seeback. Derek Castonguay, Nate Mullen, Steph Spence, Roger Wong
Aug. 23, South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Leader: Lori Freeman, Asst: Eric Einspruch. Richard LaDuke, Angela Schaefer, Leigh Schwarz, Lynn Weigand
Aug. 19, Tolmie and Howard Peaks, Mowich Lake. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Kelly Bacon, Flora Huber, Buzz Lindahl, Kelly Marlin, Larry Murry, Jeanne Shults
Aug. 23, Old Snowy, SnowGrass Flats. Leader: Lisa Ripps, Asst: Beth Copeland. John Dodson, John Egan, Mike Hynes, Vivek Tiwari
*denotes previously published climbs that have corrections. Names marked with a asterisk were not previously listed or were listed incorrectly.
Aug. 24, Glacier Mt., NE Ridge. Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Greg Ragland. Kent Ross, Mark Stave Aug. 24, Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Al Papish. Mark Curran, Sarah Fate, Matt Fogarty, Ted Light, Linda Musil Aug. 24, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: Kirsten Labudda. Bertie August, Lynny Brown, Brian Clark, Andrea Frank, Kyle Johnson, Evan Johnson, Andy Nuttbrock, Megan Oberle, Leslie Shotola, Lawrence Welsh Aug. 24, Mt. Cruiser, South Corner. Leader: Jill Kellogg. Ann Ames, Tom Davidson, Helene Simon Aug. 24, Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Amy Graham. Dan Gibson, Sarah Lydecker, Lynne Pedersen, Erica Timm, Christine Yankel Aug. 29, Liberty Bell, Beckey. Leader: Thomas Miller, Asst: Jon Major. Aaron Clemons, Tom Dodson, Drew Prochnial, Stacy Redington Aug. 29, Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Kim Edger. Krista Curtis, Barbara Ellington, Noah Enelow, Margaret McCarthy, Aaron Nelson, Guy Wettstein, Graeme Wilson Aug. 30, Broken Top, Northwest Ridge. Leader: Ted Slupesky, Asst: Gary Ballou. Bri Berglund, Akshay Dua, Morgan Harvey, Meryl Lipman, Amy Mendenhall, Daniel Mick, Ondie Ogston, Andy Schiestl, James Strohschein, Candy Yiu
Aug. 30, Strawberry Mountain, NE Ridge. Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Mark Meyer. Marcum Bell, Sarah Miller, Patricia Neighbor Aug. 31, Mount St. Helens, Montitor Ridge. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Beth Copeland. Bob Bondaruk, Silke Brunning, Kurt Lane, Tom Noonan, Tara Perkins, Nichole Tobin, Gene Wilcox Sept. 4, Plummer, Pinnacle Saddle. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Cecille Beyl, Eric Hall, Larry Murry Sept. 5, Yakima Peak, Chinook Pass. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Cecille Beyl, Eric Hall, Flora Huber, Larry Murry, Jeanne Shults Sept. 6, Eagle/Chutla Peaks, Saddle. Leader: Leora Gregory, Asst: Patrice Cook. Ruby Brunk, Brad Huby, Lynne Petersen, Anneka Plug, Karen Vernier Sept. 6, South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: April Wolstencroft. Ann Ames, Erin Beyer, Sherry Bourdin, Madeline Edwards, Murray Gusseck, Jay Lundenberg, Pamela Martin, Caroline Purkey, Lynn Purkey Sept. 6, Mt. Maude, South Shoulder. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Brian Murray. Sherry Aanerud, Nancy Bentley, Doug Couch, Tammy Gillen, Martin Gillen, Layne Russell
Mazamas on the summit of Mt. Shuksan.
Sept. 6, Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Ted Slupesky, Asst: Lisa Brady. Gary Ballou, Matt Fogarty, Alex Gauthier, Bridget Martin, Barry O’Manhony, Joe Petsche Sept. 7, Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: Jon Skeen. Ally Imbody, Jarome Leedy, Connor Neal, Elizabeth Pedersen, Charels Reneau, Jon Rettig, Mike Schoen, Charles Stilwell Sept. 7, Seven Finger Jack, Southwest Slope. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Brian Murray. Doug Couch, Tammie Gillen, Martin Gillen Sept. 7, South Sister, Devil’s Lake. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Nick Herr. Tim Anderson, Lisa Anderson, Connor Chamberlin, Karin Masunari, Calvin McDonald, Karl Vorderbruggen, Samuel Zeigler Sept. 7, North Sister, SW Ridge. Leader: John Godino, Asst: Jill Kellogg. Kim Edger, Ardel Frick, Amy Graham, Dave Groudle, Laura Guderyahn, Paul Johnson, Eileen Kiely, Amy Mendenhall, Daniel Mick, Linda Musil Sept. 14, Mount St. Helens, Montitor Ridge. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Amy Graham. Christina Blevins, Nancy Lloyd, Joey McCoy, Don McCoy, John Merill, Carrie Merrill, Naveen Ramaswamy, Bill Stein, Basil Stein, Liz Todd
Mazama Climb Awards Ever year at the Annual Celebration Mazamas recognize climbing accomplishments and give climbing awards. Climbing Committee is receiving climbing applications for climbing awards. Qualifying climbs for all these awards must be official Mazama climbs. CLIMBING AWARDS • Guardian Peaks: Mount. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. • Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister. • Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Oympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. LEADER AWARDS • Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks • 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks. Application deadline for the 16 Peak and Terry Becker Award is Sept. 20. For all other awards, the deadline is Oct. 15. Mail your applications along with copies of summit certificates to MMC. Climbing Award applications can be downloaded from the mazama website.
October/2014—19
by Terry Campbell
The
E S O N
Part Deux: Failure or Success? Big Reflections from a Big Wall 20 —Mazama Bulletin
I
am not sure about you, but at many times in my short climbing experience I have had reasons to question why I do this. Does it make me happy? Am I learning something? Is the alpine view worth 3,000 feet of scree slogging? Given that the vast majority of us engage climbing as recreationalists with goals of exercising while enjoying nature with friends, its seems that the trail to climb higher or pick up a new discipline is a dead end. This article will hopefully provide you with a few insights and lessons our team learned about themselves as a team and an individuals. It was January 2013 when Todd Torres, Troy Norman and I first called ourselves “Team Triple T.” We had one mission: climb The Nose route on El Cap in Yosemite Valley. Through the spring of 2013 we researched hauling systems, communicated with other big wall climbers, practiced our big wall skills together and were thoroughly fired-up for our Memorial Day Monday departure. To keep this part of the story short: we went down to the Valley or “Ditch” and under favorable weather we
did not reach the top, but we took home some hard earned lessons about preparing to climb this route. Most importantly we had a good time with each other while being focused on safety and learning, so we committed to making another attempt exactly one calendar year from our original try. My story starts more than a decade before this attempt in 2002 when I took BCEP. My original draw was like many, as a hiker/backpacker I strived to climb higher but I needed more skills. After taking BCEP, ICS, AR, etc. I had an extensive network of climbing mates and everything was new and exciting. With so many climbing disciplines out there—cragging, scrambling, alpine rock, ice climbing, mountaineering, aide/big wall climbing, and bouldering—I was pulled in many directions. It is human nature to try things until we find something(s) we like. So, Team Triple T was going to attempt to stay focused for one year and prepare for another shot at what some claim to be the “greatest climb in the world.” Life rolled on during the summer and autumn of 2013 with far off concerns about re-attempting the route. After the winter holidays wore off we started email discussions and by spring we were knocking the dust off our big wall gear. Some of the hard lessons
learned on our first attempt were: bring more water; be prepared to lead Yosemite 5.9 (without question); and dial-up a strategy to best avoid the crowds at the bottom of the route. As we met up during the late winter of 2014 I could tell it was harder than in 2013 to get everyone together to practice and coalesce a team spirit. Whether it was life changes, new jobs, or planning weddings, all three teammates were a bit more strapped for time. As for me, 2014 was turning into a tough year to dedicate the time needed to prepare for a climb of this magnitude. I was in the process of getting married the weekend before our departure and even though our wedding was small and intimate it still required time to plan. During late March I sustained a toe injury that prevented me from climbing consistently in April or May. All in all it was not a good foundation to build a climbing adventure on; it was hurried, injured and unstable. Once on the Valley floor Team Triple T jumped into the motions of preparing for our attempt. We had been here before and we knew what it was going to take to get a solid start. We got our ropes fixed to Sickle Ledge with the plan of hauling our estimated 180 pounds of haul bags (including 16 gallons of water) up the next day and then staying the night
From left to right: The author on the epic second rappel session. Troy Norman all geared up to hike to the base. The author with two pigs, port-a-ledge, and a poop bucket ... El Cap looms above.
on Sickle. The temperature was warm and the forecast for the next few days looked stable. The next morning we returned to the base and started hauling. Our bags were so heavy that it took two people counterbalance hauling to get them to budge. Eventually, we made it to Sickle Ledge and docked the bags. Our next goal was to rappel, pack up all of our remaining food and gear, then in the cool of the evening we would jug our lines back for a nice night at Sickle. As I arrived at Sickle Ledge that evening Todd informed us that his daisychains were experiencing some very strange wear that made him uneasy. Our
Mazama Member Special
sleeping plan was for Troy to sleep on the ledge while Todd and I slept on his new two person port-a-ledge. Before dozing off we all agreed to a 4 a.m. wake-up so we could breakdown our sleeping systems and get moving early. All night Todd and I tried to get his new port-a-ledge, which neither of us had practiced with, to stay level. Since it would not stay level I spent the entire night with my feet higher than my head—not a great sleeping position. I had just fallen into my deepest sleep when the alarm went off. I wanted another hour of sleep, but we got up and got moving. We made our way through a series of traverses with Todd expertly leading the way. We
remembered that this was some of the most technical hauling of the lower pitches. Just then Troy released the bags onto a closed Yates daisy, “Shoot!” he screamed. Todd and I were 150 feet away and not able to help. On his own he had to try and lift 180 pounds while releasing the daisy. After a great effort he released it and the pigs came flying over. Once we all collected up at the bottom of the Stove Legs, Troy and I witnessed Todd fly up the lower section of this legendary feature. Unfortunately, by the time we were all congregated at the top of the next pitch Todd had pumped his arms out and could not continue to lead.
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To this point, things had not gone according to plan, but we had made good time getting to where we were. As I started aiding up the upper Stove Legs section, and into some off-width sections the lack of sleep the night before and my less-thanideal physical shape caught up with me. Aid-climbing through off-widths is a knee and foot smashing affair that usually requires the leader to place gear deep in a slot, clip an aider to it and stand in it. However, once you stand in the aider your knees smash the edges of the wide crack and your foot often rolls at the ankle. The wind was blowing around 25 mph and I was not having fun. I pushed through several walls of exhaustion, frustration, and doubt and each one took its toll on my mental well-being. By the time I reached the belay anchor I was physically zapped and mentally cooked. I had never been so out of sorts and I just wanted to get the heck out of there. When Troy arrived we shouted to Todd that in the spirit of making safe decisions, down was our only choice. So we began eight long, wind-blasted rappels/haul bag lowers that would take us back to the Valley floor, again. Defeated but not destroyed we started to digest and discuss everything that went wrong. What we learned about teams preparing to reach goals at their collective limit is that they need to commit time to focused training together, honestly communicate and consider changing the schedule if needed. Team Triple T had built such good camaraderie during our first attempt that we may have underestimated all the steps required to be better prepared. Plus, life took over for all of us and we were not able to re-ignite the collective training that we had established the year before. When I was plagued with an injury I did not communicate clearly that my training was knocked off course. Like three blind mice we just kept pushing for another attempt at the same time as the year before without considering all that was going on and the fact that another time, maybe the autumn, would be better. Some would consider our time on the Nose wasted, but I consider it educational. It’s my opinion that we learn more from failures than from success because we analyze every decision and step when we fail to learn what went wrong. I know that each team member learned a lot about himself and our collective team. Unfortunately, it appears that big-wall climbing is not in the DNA of all of us; so it looks like the dream of Team Triple T standing on the top of El Cap will remain just a dream. October/2014—21
“Classics” 25 years or more of Mazama membership We lead a wide variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun.
Classic Mazamas Website and Listserv Reminder Information about Classics events is in this column and at the Mazama website at mazamas.org/activities-events/ classicmazamas. The Classics also have a listserv which you can opt in or out of at classicmazamas@lists.mazamas.org. Introduction to the Classics Meeting and New Management Team Twenty-four Classics attended the Introduction meeting Sept. 3. We discussed the name change from Old Timers to Classics and the new Mission Statement: “Classic Mazamas offer year-round outdoor, social and cultural activities targeting members of 25 years or more; those 55 years or older; or those who prefer to travel at a leisurely pace.” Dick Miller then told us how he created the Mt. Hood poster which he gave to all the attendees. Some of the Events folks indicated they are interested in moving forward with the following events: The December holiday party; the Millers’ July picnic potluck; a visit to the NW Alpaca farm and garden led by Dick Miller; a hike to the “Miller” bridge in Forest Park; potlucks before the Wednesday programs, a chuckwagon overnight catered by Charles Barker; buffet lunches at the MMC catered by Charles Barker or others; Cape Horn short hikes, GPS training; a Powell’s Bookstore tour; sea kayaking; Barlow road and other historic hikes. The evening concluded with members volunteering for the New Management Team. Co-chairs: Lanning Russell, Dick Miller, Rose Marie Gilbert; listserv/ communications: Darlene Nelson; potluck program coordinators: Gail O’Neill, Dyanne Foster; hike and event leaders: Dick Miller, Kent Meyer, Billie Goodwin, Heather 22 —Mazama Bulletin
Rosenwinkel, Flora Huber, Rose Marie Gilbert, Hal Howard, Celine Stroinski, Lehman Holder, Bus Gibson, David Christopher. Leading Events in November If you are interested in leading an event in November, contact Rose Marie Gilbert at gilbertrosemarie@centurylink.net or 503762-2357, Dick Miller at 503-590-3598, or Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail.com or 503-775-1164 by Oct. 12. Saturday, Oct. 4, Lake Oswego Walk, 10 a.m., George Rogers Park This three-mile walk from George Rogers Park to Foothills Park and return will focus on historic places and art in Lake Oswego. Learn how Sucker Creek became Lake Oswego. See the Oregon Iron Company’s first charcoal iron smelter, built in 1867, Lake Oswego’s first school from the early 1850s, the 1929 home of George Rogers, a 1900 worker’s cottage, and the 1890 Odd Fellows Hall. We will also visit Lee Kelly’s sculpture “Angkor 1” in Millennium Park and Frank Boyden’s “Stafford Stones,” honoring poet William Stafford in Foothills Park. Bring a lunch; we’ll be eating in Foothills Park. Access George Rogers Park from State and Middlecrest/Wilbur. Go east on Wilbur to Furnace, turn right and continue to George Rogers Park to meet at 10 a.m. Leader: Kate Evans, 503-635-6540. Fee: $2 for Mazamas. Wed. Oct. 8, Cooper Mountain Nature Park Walk, 10 a.m., Nature Park Join Dick Miller for a walk in the Cooper Mountain Nature Park, an area which emphasizes the conservation of natural land. The park is on the top south-facing slopes of the mountain. Views of the southern Tualatin
Valley are wonderful from the prairie areas along some of the several 3½ mile loop trails. Trails are wide, and none are difficult, especially at the pace we will walk. There will be plenty of time for taking pictures, reading the information boards along the trails, and, if needed, resting a bit at one of the trailside benches. Meet Dick in front of the park’s Nature House at 10 a.m., Wed. Oct. 8. There is plenty of parking at the trailhead just east of the Nature House. Bring snacks or a sandwich. We will no doubt have walked all the loops by 1 p.m. or so. That requires an average of just over one mile per hour. Directions: Take Scholls Ferry Road west from Highway 217 to SW 175th Ave, Turn right onto 175th. At the top of the hill is a flashing red, all-way stop at Kemmer Road. Turn left onto Kemmer Road for 0.7 mile to the Nature Park entrance on the left (south) side of Kemmer Road. Wed. Oct. 29 Potluck before the Program, 5:30 p.m. Please bring a drink for yourself and a salad, entree, or dessert to share. This will be a very popular program so come early to find a good seat. Program: An Appalachian Trail Thru Hike (see page 29 for details) Wed. Nov. 12 Potluck before the Program, 5:30 p.m. Enjoy a potluck with other Classics before the 7 p.m. program “Day Hiking in the San Juans and Gulf Islands.” For more program information, go to the Mazama website, and under Activities & Events, click on Evening Travel Programs.
MFA STILL AVAILABLE— REGISTRATION CLOSES SOON Fall Mountaineering First Aid runs Oct. 21–Nov. 9, 2014. Evening classroom sessions, Tuesday and Thursdays 6:30–9 p.m. And a weekend practical session, Nov. 8–9 at Mazama Lodge. Cost: $165 members/$215 nonmembers. MFA is designed to teach how to apply first aid skills in the wilderness, including performing advanced patient assessment, improvising equipment and coping with wilderness-specific conditions. Classroom lectures and demonstrations are combined with realistic scenarios where mock patients will challenge you to integrate your learning. Learning takes place both in the classroom and in outdoor settings regardless of weather conditions. More information and online registration: http://mazamas.org/education-classes/first-aid/
It’s Mazama Annual Time!
Tom Guyot (right) has led his 700th Mazama hike, with a Tuesday evening ramble through the west hills. Gretchen Guyot is on his left. Photo was taken at the Chapman School. Photo: Bob Breivogel.
crooked river grasslands navigation race Saturday October 11 10 am - 4 pm Come test your stamina and navigation skills and experience the beautiful autumn high desert of Central Oregon at the Crooked River Grasslands navigation race. You have six hours, a teammate or two, and a topographic map with 30 or so check points marked. How many points can you and your team find using only map and compass before time runs out? It’s a competitive cross country run or a scenic hike, the choice is yours. Just north of Smith Rock State Park, the terrain features rolling hills, open juniper forest, and sagebrush flatlands. (Make a weekend out of it and go climbing or hiking at Smith the next day, just a few miles away.) Beginners are welcome, and an orienteering clinic will be given in the morning around 9:00am before the start of the event. Mazamas members get a $5.00 discount on registration. Cost: $30 per person for Mazamas or CROC members, $35 per person for non-Mazamas members. Free camping is available at the event site.
Columbia River Orienteering club complete details at www.croc.org
The Publications Committee is already planning the 2014 Annual. We would love to hear about your adventures in 2014, especially any climbing-related stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas. We will help you edit any submissions you make. We’d also encourage you to submit high-resolution photos of climbing, hiking or backpacking, even if they are not attached to an article. We typically include a number of stand-alone photos and we especially need vertically-oriented (portrait mode) pictures. Photos must be 300 dpi. Please give your photographs a descriptive file name and submit with a photo caption and credit. You can submit your photos and articles to: mazama.annual@mazamas.org. Deadlines: • All reports are due Oct. 15 (commitee, outings (except fall), administrative) • Feature articles are due Nov. 15 • Photos are due Nov. 15 • Climbs and hikes (spreadsheets) are due by Dec. 15
Mazama Blog—Video Feature We would like to showcase your video on the Mazama Video of the Month feature on the Mazama Blog (mazamas.blogspot.com. Videos made by Mazamas, featuring your climb, backpack trip, ski adventure, hike or other outdoor activity are needed. Please consider sharing your wilderness passion with your fellow Mazamas by sharing your video. Submit URL of your YouTube- or Vimeo-hosted video, along with a concise introductory description, to mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org.
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.
GREEN 2002 SUBARU OUTBACK. 211,00 miles, manual, partially rebuilt engine with a new transmission and catalytic converter. All service records. $2410. Kate Evans kateevans97@gmail.com BEACH HOUSE IN ROCKAWAY. Quiet. Safe. Sleeps 6. Located on the beach side of tracks. $95 night/$570 week. 503-636-0252 HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member
since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
October/2014—23
Round the Mountain
The author, Michele, had carried her water shoes 3/4 of the way around this mountain and was determined to use them on at least one stream crossing!
by Michele Crim
E
very year my husband Glenn and I plan at least one mystery vacation for each other.
We plan a special outing and the other person doesn’t know what it is until it happens. I stole this idea from a co-worker who does this with his partner and I thought it was brilliant! This past Labor Day weekend was our 14-year wedding anniversary so I decided to plan a mystery vacation for Glenn in celebration. I heard about this event hosted by the Mazamas called “Round the Mountain” where you hike all the way around Mt. Hood from a friend that had done it a year or two before. The route around the mountain is broken up into three sections. Each day you hike one of the ~15 mile sections and return to the Mazama lodge in the evening for a hot meal, shower and a bed. The next morning you get a hot breakfast and then you return to the trailhead so you can hike the next section. Wash, rinse, repeat. It sounded like a perfect mystery vacation, so I signed us up! Soon thereafter, I walked out of the orientation for the event with my heart in my throat. They spent much of the orientation focused on the amount of physical conditioning one needed to do in order to survive the adventure—or at the very least have it be an enjoyable experience. The 24 —Mazama Bulletin
leaders said it was the equivalent of hiking Dog Mountain ... twice a day ... three days in a row. Ugh! Hiking Dog Mountain just once a year is a significant accomplishment in my book. To be fair to Glenn I knew I couldn’t wait until the last moment to unveil my mystery vacation. I had to spill my secret sooner rather than later, as Glenn and I were going to need to get some significant hikes at altitude under our belts in preparation. And we did! We hiked to Tom Dick and Harry Mountain and up Dog Mountain. We did the Lost Lake Chuck Wagon (also with the Mazamas), got lost on the way to Larch Mountain, and spent a week hiking in the Olympic National Park/Forest. By the time the event arrived I felt like we had done a great job of preparing our feet, legs and lungs to carry us long distances high up on a mountain. On Friday I arrived at the Mazamas lodge (near Government Camp and Timberline Lodge) with great trepidation. Not only was I anxious about the hikes (Will I be able to do it three days in a row? Will I be so slow that everyone will have to wait for me?), but my social anxiety was in high gear and I was worried about meeting the strangers I would be spending the next three days with. The participants were divided into six groups of 12 people consisting of 10 hikers and two team leaders that serve as guides. Each group has a different pace from a more gentle “scenic” pace to a blistering “I’m walking so fast it’s all a blur” pace, and
everything in between. We ended up in a great group with a nice moderate pace that we could sustain over the 45-mile loop. Our group was made up of funny, interesting people who were very supportive of each other. We were also thrilled to find that my idol and inspiration, Gwen, was there for the event (I so want to be like her when I grow up!). We met Gwen on Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend a couple of months ago. She had gifted herself a 25-mile hiking adventure for her 70th birthday (although she hadn’t been hiking in over a decade), and was now out burning through 45 miles of trails all the way around the mountain. She rocks. All of our physical conditioning paid off and not only were we able to accomplish something that I never would have dreamed possible, but we had a blast doing it! Although the Mazamas hiking route doesn’t make a continuous circuit around the mountain (there are some sections, such as the Eliot Glacier landslide area, that aren’t safe to cross with such a group) it covers most of it. Before this hike, my experience with Mt. Hood was as the mountain I drove past to get to Bend or that I could occasionally see in the distance out my window at work. After this hike, I feel like I know the mountain in a much more intimate way. Each side of the mountain has its own distinct personality varying greatly by terrain, vegetation and weather.
Day One: Timberline Lodge to Cloud Cap To put it mildly, the weather on our first day was miserable! It was cold, rainy and windy. Glenn and I spent most of the day dressed head to toe in rain gear and by the end we were soaking wet and cold. This was also the day we were on the east side of the mountain at the highest elevations of the weekend, crossing slippery snowfields and exposed ridges with no vegetation. We were battered by freezing rain and ~50 mph wind gusts on top of Gnarl Ridge (gnarly ridge, more like it) that were strong enough to actually blow you off the trail. Although it was cold and miserable and clouds obscured the views, this was actually one of my favorite days of hiking. It was exciting to be out there battling the elements and making the most out of the crazy expedition. Day Two: Timberline Lodge to Ramona Falls The weather improved slightly the second day. It wasn’t as cold or windy, but we still spent much of the day in our rain gear walking through sporadic rains and misty clouds. In many ways this day’s hiking was the hardest for me. We started high on the mountain and ended at a much lower elevation. My knees and ankles were very sore and tired from the miles and miles of downhill. I spent much of the day stressed about the Sandy River crossings. The Sandy River is a deceptively fast moving river that can be quite dangerous to cross at times. A couple of weeks ago there were some flash floods that took out the foot bridge over the river on the Ramona Falls trail. Sadly, a man was killed there when the bridge washed out while he was on it. We knew the bridge was gone, which meant we’d have to make it across the river some other way (twice). I spent many miles on the trail envisioning falling into the river! In the end we used logs and were able to make it across safely. Day Three: Top Spur to Elk Cove The weather was beautiful on our third day. As such, this hike was the most spectacular in terms of views of the mountain peak as well as the surrounding countryside. The wildflowers were amazing and sections of the hike went through areas burned by the Dollar Lake Fire (2011). I was mesmerized by the beauty and eeriness of walking through stands of silver-white dead trees with a green carpet of new plants at their feet and bright blue skies above their tops. We had a ton of fun and I would highly recommend the Round the Mountain event hosted by the Mazamas. Both Glenn and I want to thank Robyn our friend who originally suggested the trip, as well as our other team members and especially our group leaders Aaron and Chris for such an amazing time. It’s an experience we’ll never forget and one that we hope to do again next year! To read more about Michele’s adventures including the Mazama Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend see her blog A Life More Extraordinary, www.alifemoreextraordinary.net
Our hiking group—one of six similar teams working their way around the mountain over the weekend. Working my way across our first Sandy River crossing. I got a little dizzy until I figured out to focus on the log and my feet, not the rushing water below!
Lodge News Manager: Charles Barker Caretaker: Amanda Richards 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
Fall Work Party, Saturday, October 25; 9–3 p.m. This is a great chance to help get the lodge ready for the winter season, enjoy a delicious complimentary lunch, and earn a free one night stay at the lodge! Chores planned for the day include wood stacking, wood splitting, installing snow shutters, and so much more. On Friday, September 12 we had over 30 Classic Mazamas visit Mazama Lodge. I’m always reminded of what incredibly rich lives our Mazama members lead. One such member is Nancy Peterson Nash who joined the Mazamas in 1947. Nancy said her parents weren’t excited about having her stay in Government Camp but after learning that Mazama Lodge was alcohol-free decided it would be “okay.” Nancy has served on various committees including the Lodge Committee over the years and still hikes! Another great story came from Don Richardson and
Karen Edmunds. Their history with the Mazamas goes back to the 1920s when their parents would stay at Mazama Lodge. Don and Karen met each other as kids and eventually started dating with approval from their parents. But as life moved forward they ended up marrying other partners, raising their families, and living separate lives. Sadly, both lost their spouses ... but as love would have it, they are back together as a couple some 65 years later! If you are looking for a slow weekend to pick some mushrooms, (Permits are $5 through your nearby ranger station) the weekend of October 18 is looking like a good time to visit the lodge and enjoy some good mushroom picking! This summer we tried something new with a llama hike from Mazama Lodge. This program had great success—look for it as a future lodge activity.
From top, clockwise: Nicole Peltz leads the llama adventure. Classic Mazamas. Nancy Nash, Mazama member since 1947. Don Richardson and Karen Edmunds.
26 —Mazama Bulletin
Time Warp Jack Grauer Travel back through Mazama history and experience what your fellow Mazamas were doing 50 and 100 years ago.
1964 — 50 Years Ago An exciting Mazama Annual Banquet was announced in the October Bulletin. Royal Robbins was scheduled to present High Rock Adventure at the Lloyd Center Sheraton Motor Inn. He spoke about four hair-raising routes on El Capitan. He had made first ascents on all of them: West Buttress, Dihedral Wall, Salathe Wall, and South Buttress. These were just a few of the first ascents that Robbins made in the United States and Canada. Banquets tickets were $5 per person. Folk dancing at the Mazama clubrooms at 909 SW 19th Avenue was held for Friday, October 9, 1964. The event was directed by Grace Houghton, a well-qualified instructor. Ladies were advised to wear low-heeled shoes. Sessions were planned to run through the winter.
1914 — 100 Years Ago The Annual Outing of 1914 was held in early August at Mt. Rainier with more than 100 attending. With great disappointment B.A. Thaxter found that he could not attend on the planned dates, so his mind began to churn. Why not climb Mount St. Helens, then strike out across country and climb Mt. Rainier, too? He found a companion for the trip, Lindsley Ross, a Reed College Student. Mazama Edgar E. Coursen planned to vacation at the Lange Homestead at Spirit Lake and Thaxter arranged to meet him on August 24, at Castle Rock, then go in with the Coursen party to climb Saint Helens. Tuesday, August 25, they reached Lange’s at about 9 p.m., after a long tramp from Toutle. On Thursday, they ascended Mount St. Helens. Wednesday at sunrise, Thaxter and Ross began their 60-mile trip to Mt. Rainier. US Forest Service Rangers were uncertain about trails. They rowed a boat on Spirit Lake to the Saint Helens Mining Company dock, then wound up good trail up a divide to Norway Pass, 4,500 ft. They dropped two or three thousand feet and reached the Polar Star Mine on Green River. This was off route, but miners gave them directions for climbing Strawberry Mountain. About 2:30 p.m., they met a ranger, who presented a route down a trail on Quartz Creek to the Cispus River. From there, they battled through underbrush on a cruel, steep slope to a trail on a ridge. It was soon time to spend a cold night by a fire with no blankets. They were hiking again before sunrise and found much-needed water in a lake before following a trail into the Cowlitz Valley. At 1:30 p.m., they came to the Kelly ranch and house in a forest clearing. With Kelly’s directions, they reached Kosmos and followed the river eight miles to the ferry. They had struggled 40 miles in two days. They spent Sunday night, August 30, at Longmire’s and went on Monday to Reese’s camp in Paradise Park on Mt. Rainier. They climbed the peak on September 1. Thaxter and Ross returned home to Portland via railroad travel the next night after their 10 punishing days in little-known wilderness.
w? Kno INS u o s B Y Did L ROB azama xt A M e Y n RO d to the ng the to a ne ati ers th a retur 06, tre f memb how wi d0 in 2 ration o e slides s groun he r e tt hi gen adventu unt of loits, a o p cc gon ex ing thrill t-hand a limbing t at Ore ut. firs king c anque sold o t brea nnual B is even A o. Th Zo
In 1964 tickets to the Banquet
were $5. Adjusted for inflation, those tickets would have cost $38.36 today.
O Ban ver tim q e the uet Ann now ual Cel became e Alp the wee bratio the ine n k mou Festiv long Po and it is ntain rtla al. C nd cultu pres e l e b enta re th rate t r i slide ons, c ough show lin s, an ics, d mo re!
THE SUMMIT, the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Fest, features a presentation by noted alpinist John Roskelley, a vendor fair, awards, FOOD, social time, and more.
Tickets: $37 October/2014—27
Mazama Families A number of very special and unique events have occurred since our last Families update in the Bulletin. The Families Mountaineering 101 (FM 101) course was launched with 28 kids, 16 adult students and 18 adult assistants attending the inaugural lecture at the MMC in early September. The first outdoor session took place at Horsethief Butte, with two days filled with learning climbing techniques (mostly ascending the cliffs and some traversing), practicing slingshot belaying, and fixed-line travel. These alpine climbers in training have already taken to heart activities important to the Mazamas and thematic to this month’s Bulletin. The Families Committee annual picnic at Mt. Tabor in September was well-attended, and the children there played together until after sunset. Many have become close friends because of their participation and their families’ ongoing engagement with the Mazamas. These children have the potential to be a major part of the organization in a few years, with skills and love of alpine adventures that will be forged over decades of shared
little steps lead to BIG STEPS
adventures with us and among themselves. They will certainly encourage more kids to follow in their footsteps. Four children, ages 8–10, summited South Sister, the third-tallest mountain in Oregon. Several became Mazama members immediately following and were quite proud to do so. Stay tuned for a feature article in the 2014 Mazama Annual for more details, but suffice it to say, this is a groundbreaking event for the entire organization. The children trained hard for this climb, and they achieved it efficiently, with great attitude, and in a timely manner. Seven parents, several of whom would not otherwise be able to participate actively in Mazama events because of their family commitments, came along and summited as well. Our kids are the future of the organization, and we are pleased they have “stepped up” so promptly. The Families Committee will continue to offer numerous hikes throughout the fall, independent of FM 101. For information on all these events and more, visit www.mazamafamilies.org or join our email list by dropping a line to families@ mazamas.org.
From top left, clockwise: Two little climbers getting started on top rope. The FM 101 class at Horsethief Butte. Teaching in action. Group shot. Photos: Chris Fowler.
Kids’ Corner We plan to offer an expanded Kids’ Corner featuring their pint-sized perspective on the Sisters climb, in the forthcoming Annual article. Here’s a bit of advance copy: “The world is so big!?!” –Luca Einspruch on the summit of South Sister. 28 —Mazama Bulletin
Evening Travel Programs—Begin Oct. 8 Welcome to the Mazama 2014–2015 season of evening programs. Our Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Dave Groudle, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell and Ric Russell.
Discovery and adventure on the Oregon Desert Trail Wednesday, Oct. 8 Oregon’s high desert features red-rock canyons, mountain vistas, cool rivers and plentiful solitude. Shane Von Schlemp completed a new, 800-mile route called the Oregon Desert Trail, which remains a wild, largely undiscovered part of Oregon that winds from Bend through Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, Steens Mountain Wilderness and the Owyhee Canyonlands to near the Idaho border. Read about his journey at: odt2014.wordpress.com/
Roped Solo of Zodiac Route on El Capitan Yosemite Wednesday, Oct. 15 Scott Peterson decided that in the next year he would lose 40 pounds and climb El Capitan. He sat through a snow storm and ran out of water before finishing the climb. Many other highlights will be shared about how he succeeded on his first finished route on El Capitan.
Sea Kayaking in Gwaii Haanas (B.C.) Wednesday, Oct. 22 For two weeks Bob Wilson and Eric Hoem sea kayaked more than 90 miles through the National Park and Marine Reserve known as Gwaii Haanas, a Heritage Site for the Haida people. They explored inlets in search of wildlife; floated narrows and tidal areas to observe marine life; camped at large; walked among ancient carved poles; observed the remains of Haida long houses where once entire families lived; and heard stories of the culture that once flourished.
An Appalachian Trail Thru Hike (Program Change) Wednesday, Oct. 29 The Appalachian Trail (AT) is the most known and traveled of America’s three longest trails (including the Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail) which comprise hiking’s “Triple Crown.” Solo backpacker, Erin “Wired” Saver (PCT 2011, CDT 2013) will be speaking about her 111 day thru hike along the AT which took her 2,185 miles through 14 states from Georgia to Maine this past summer. The presentation includes anecdotes, pictures, and videos from Wired’s hike which also completed her personal Triple Crown. For a sneak peek, check out Wired’s highly followed blog at www.walkingwithwired.com where she kept a daily detailed journal of her hike. October/2014—29
by Heidi Medema The second Portland Alpine Fest is right around the corner! Maybe you got in on the good times last year, or maybe you decided to stay home and miss out on the fun. Either way, I’m here to tell you why you should check out the wonderful community event that is PAF. For those of you unfamiliar with PAF, it is a week-long festival celebrating all things alpine. The week is chalk full (pun fully intended) of clinics with incredible athletes, inspiring slideshows, family friendly activities, and more! PAF is quite literally an event for the community, by the community. Volunteers, retailers, athletes, clubs, and non-profits from all over Portland and the nation have come together to bring you the Portland Alpine Festival. This festival welcomes a full spectrum of outdoor backgrounds. So whether you are a high peak bagging mountaineer, a traditional rock climbing purist, or just like to get outside once in a while for a brisk hike, PAF has something to offer! For me one of the high points of last year’s festival (of which there were many), one of my lifelong dreams came true. I got to hang out with perhaps my biggest climbing hero, Conrad Anker. We even high fived! At PAF you get to rub shoulders with some of our sports greatest, and most inspiring figures. Swoon! If you are reading this, asking yourself, “Who is this Anker you speak of?” that’s okay too. You do not have to be the kind of person that pours over the latest edition of Alpine magazine with the intensity of a cheetah stalking its prey in order to have fun at PAF. That’s the beauty of this festival! If it is a hands on learning experience you seek, check out one of the many clinics offered throughout the week. Learn how to send like a girl (which is a really good thing, trust me) with Libby Sauter. Or perhaps you have had that tickle to try ice climbing. You can learn how to get started in Ice Climbing 101 with Aaron Mulkey. Or maybe you’re not into
30 —Mazama Bulletin
climbing, but want to become a master of balance? Then you can check out Sauter’s Intro to Slacklining clinic. Beyond the plethora of clinics, PAF also offers seminars, discussion panels, films, food, and more! So, what I am trying to say, is that in a world where demands on our time are more than plentiful, making time for the Portland Alpine Fest is one of the best, most fun, most educational, most awe inspiring, most awesome decisions you can make. Hope to see you there!
Clinics & Seminars Include:
Nov. 4
Nov. 5
Nov. 6
Nov. 7
Graham Zimmerman libby sauter aaron mulkey
Ice Climbing 101 Big Wall Climbing High Angle Rescue Women’s Techniques: Crack Climbing Mixed Climbing & Dry Tooling Intro to Slacklining Alpine Climbing Nutrition Yosemite Trip Planning Training for Weekend Warriors Planning an Alaskan Expedition Type 3 Fun: Extreme Alpinism Climbing Without Beta Climbing Communications First Aid in the Backcountry Ski Mountaineering
Events The Summit | Nov. 8 Portland Ice Comp at PRG | Nov. 8 No Rest for the Wicked (John Frieh) | Nov. 4
Nov. 8
Explorations in Alaska (Graham Zimmerman) | Nov. 5 Jungle Wall-Fare (Libby sauter) | Nov. 6 The Pursuit (Aaron Mulkey) |Nov. 7
October/2014—31
food & drinks | gear & vendor fair | portland ice comp awards | silent & live auction | mazama awards | and more ...
Ten years after the first Americans climbed Mt. Everest in 1963, another group of Americans made a significant ascent of an 8,000 meter peak, Mt. Dhaulagiri, 26,800 feet. It was the beginning of a renaissance for U.S. climbers in the Himalayas and Karakorum that continued into the next century. John Roskelley played a major part through three decades of that renaissance, summiting four 8,000 meter peaks and a slew of shorter, technically hard peaks with small teams, no Sherpas and without bottled oxygen. It was a time of change in style, equipment, and most importantly, attitude and Roskelley covers some of the more important ascents of the time in this program, such as Uli Biaho, Gaurishankar, Makalu, and Tawoche.
John Roskelley.
Since his first trip to Alaska in 2009 John has made 14 separate climbing trips to Alaska to climb a total of 14 different routes on different mountains throughout Alaska. Of those routes 7 were first ascents and of those two were nominated for the highly prestigious Piolet d’Or award. Join us as John shares the story of his 2014 trips: the very first winter ascent of the Northwest “French” Ridge of Mt. Huntington as well as the first ascent of the West Ridge of the West Witches Tit.
John Frieh on Middle Peak, Alaksa. Photo: Daniel Harro.
32 —Mazama Bulletin
Why is John so stoked to be at the Portland Alpine Fest this year? In 2006 myself and another local climber Marcus Donaldson had the wild (dumb?) idea to have a get together of sorts at my house with all the local alpine and ice climbers we knew to swap stories, do some pull ups and get excited for the approaching ice climbing season. One idea led to another until it became apparent we would need a venue larger than my house and garage gym. We ended up pitching the idea of an Ice Festival to Gary Rall and the Portland Rock Gym and by some miracle Gary said yes. That fall we held the inaugural Portland Ice Festival with the intention of getting people excited about climbing while raising money for grassroots climbing organizations. It turns out though Portland might suffer from a lack of climbable ice it absolutely does not suffer from a lack of excited, passionate ice and alpine climbers.
Libby Sauter.
Nov. 6 Graham Zimmerman.
Over the past 7 years Graham Zimmerman has been leading a progression into unknown corners of the Alaska Range. During this presentation he’ll take the audience from his first major success in the range on the Southwest Face of Mt. Bradley in the Ruth Gorge, to huge new routes in the remote Revelations in the SW corner of the Alaska Range and finally to the Lacuna where he and his partner found the mighty Mastodon face of Mt. Laurens. Get ready for photos, videos, loud music and rowdy stories of massive mountains, nasty storms and big sends while exploring in one of the world’s great ranges. Why is Graham pumped to be a part of the Portland Alpine Festival? When I was a young climber I was inspired by the stories of alpinists in the greater ranges. Today I am very excited to be in a position to share my experiences in climbing with others to perpetuate that inspiration and vicarious experience. festivals like the Portland Alpine Festival are a perfect place to do this, hence I am extremely pumped to be involved! On top of all this, being based in Seattle, I am a northwest climber and to be able to participate in the premier alpine climbing festival in the northwest is very exciting.
“All you’ll need is a machete and a strong back.” With that advice, how hard could it be? After two trip mates perished back to back in the mountains before the expedition even began, it was bound to be tough. Big wall speed climbing record holder Libby Sauter shares the story of her latest major achievement—a challenging first ascent as part of a Mazama-supported expedition that put up the new 4,000 foot granite rock route “Cenizas”(5.10R A3) in remote Northern Patagonia earlier this year. Come hear a tale of Quasimodo-esque jungle bushwhacking to the base of a virgin, unnamed 4000+ foot granite face and it’s subsequent first ascent. It’ll go free. Got your machete?? Why is Libby stoked to come to PAF: Climbing is fun. At least most of the time. But trading stories about climbing always is. Having spent years in Yosemite, I’ve passed many days laying in El Cap Meadow listening to and sharing tales of life up on the big stones. I can’t wait to come and experience the Portland Alpine Fest’s version of my favorite El Cap Meadow days!
Nov. 7
Join Grivel athlete Aaron Mulkey (coldfear.com) for the premier of his feature film The Pursuit. Traveling across the Fjords and islands of Norway, witness the challenges that Aaron and his team faced in pursuit of their dreams. Fueled by the unknown and the frozen giants of Norway, the film captures some of their most memorable moments and first ascents. Aaron will introduce the movie and answer questions while we enjoy beer, popcorn, and pizza!
Aaron Mulkey. Photo: Ben Winston.
October/2014—33
Send Us Your Pictures! We are looking for great pictures to be used for a slide show during The Summit celebration on Saturday, Nov. 8. If you have been on a climb, participated in a class (BCEP, ICS, AR, ASI, MAF, skill builders), gone on an expedition, ramble, helped out with conservation work, tree planting, enjoyed a celebration at the mazama lodge, played at the MMC with your peers, experienced a climb with your family at Smith Rock, or participated in any other Mazama activity please send 5–10 of your favorite pictures to Karin Müllendorff at kmullend@ hotmail.com with the subject “PAF photos.” Thanks in advance.
Silent Auction Items Needed The Silent Auction is a big part of this week-long series of events and will take place during The Summit celebration on Saturday, Nov. 8. If you can support the auction by donating a service (massage, personal training, consultation, class, therapy, etc), or if you are a photographer, knitter, jewelry maker, wine/ beer maker, cook, or you have any sort of talent or hobby that you would like to share with us, or if you have a business and want to donate please get in touch with Karin Müllendorff at kmullend@hotmail.com or fill out a donation form through the Portland Alpine Fest website at: portlandalpinefest.org This fundraising would not be successful without the support and generosity of our Mazama members, families, and business community. Thank you in advance for your generous contribution.
34 —Mazama Bulletin
Portland Ice Comp In its 8th year, the Portland Ice Comp is an event that you won’t want to miss. We’ll get things kicked off at 10 a.m. on Saturday, Nov. 8 and the fun will run straight through until 4 p.m. Show up the day of as a spectator and watch all of the action unfold. Professional athletes and our local climbers will be taking their turns on the wall—who will be triumphant? Get yourself prepped for the comp at the Mazama skill builders in the weekends leading up to the event and register as a participant to show off your skills. There will be prizes, giveaways, and tons of fun.
Left: Mazama Todd Eddie competes in the 2013 Portland Ice Comp during the Portland Alpine Fest at Portland Rock gym. Photo: Andrew Holman. Below: Mazama Karin Mullendorff competes at the 2013 Portland Ice Comp.
Adventure Travel
OUTINGS— LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2015
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www. seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www. americanalpineclub.org.
Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, experience the scenery and wildlife of unique Climatic zones as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. Our ascent to the summit follows one of the least frequented routes via Lemosho gate and the Western Breach climb. Following 9 days of trekking and climbing, we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. In country cost for this unique trip range $3800-4300 per person depending upon number of participants. Airfare from Portland is currently around $1,600 and can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations. For more information please contact the leaders: Paul Steger, 503-998-6188, (PaulSteger612@gmail.com) and Eric Hoem, 503-341-3996, (erichoem@comcast.net).
Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland July 22–Aug. 2, 2015 This outing takes us to the fjords of western Norway and the dramatic, adjacent mountains of Romsdal. Our base will be the scenic town of Molde where we will stay in an up-scale hostel, which offers private rooms and includes breakfast. We will visit scenic coastal fishing villages and historic farms. Every day will include hiking, some easy and some more challenging. After acclimatization to the active outdoor life that Norwegian’s call “Frilufsliv,” meaning life in the open air, we plan to climb the Klovstein path with views of precipitous Trollstigen highway and hike the more challenging Romsdal Ridge. Finally, we will embark on a three-day, hut-to-hut trek through the heart of the Romsdal Mountains. Land costs include lodging, transportation, heritage farm tour, breakfasts, and two dinners. Not included: transportation to and from Molde, Norway; museum fees; lunches; and dinners other than ones included. Cost: $2,200 to $3,600, depending on number of participants. Deadline for application: Nov. 1, 2014. Required deposit: $500. Contact: Eric Hoem, leader (503-694-6036; erichoem@comcast. net) or Paul Steger, assistant (503-998-6188; paulsteger612@gmail. com).
What Is Your Outing Wish List? Where would you like to see Mazamas Outings go? Please let the Outings Committee know where you dream of exploring, and we’ll see if we can work on providing that trip. And maybe you’d even like to lead or assist! Send your ideas, suggestions and aspirations to us at mazamas.outings@gmail.com. Thanks!
October/2014—35
Go Hiking! Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike. Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike 20s & 30s Mazamas are also hiking: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions. To lead a hike in November log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org. HK B2 Oct. 01 (Wed) Grizzly Peak/Mt. Jefferson Wilderness Hike. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This is an early bird special autumn exploratory hike in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness area with a summit of Grizzly Peak. Includes great views of Mt. Jefferson and Pamelia Lake below. 10 miles 2,700 ft. Dr. 250 miles TH Tualatin (Durham) Park and Ride 7 a.m. MU HK B2 Oct. 03 (Fri) McNeil Point. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike up to treeline for Mt. Hood views before the snows hit (hopefully). We’ll hit an early viewpoint on the south side of Bald Mountain before hiking out to the shelter. 9.8 miles 2,220 ft. Dr. 100 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Oct. 04 (Sat) Lake Oswego Walk. Kate Evans 503-635-6540. This three-mile walk from George Rogers Park to Foothills Park and return will focus on historic places and art in Lake Oswego. Learn how Sucker Creek became Lake Oswego. See the Oregon Iron Company’s first iron smelter, built in 1867, the 1929 home of George Rogers, and the 1890 Odd Fellows Hall. Bring a lunch; we’ll be eating in Foothills Park. This leisurely walk is co-listed with the Classics. 3 miles 0 ft. Dr. 0 George Rogers Park 10 a.m. HK B2 Oct. 04 (Sat) Indian Heaven: Placid, Chenamus, Wood Lakes. Susan Koch 971-678-3446. Wilderness—Limit 12. Exploratory. Peaceful area
Gear Demo Program Thanks to a generous donation from Leki, we have just launched a new Gear Demo Program. We have 30 pairs of Leki Corklite trekking poles for you to take for a spin, 20 unisex and 10 women-specific.
Costs: 10 days—$2 members/$5 nonmembers. One month (members only)—$5. Reserve online at mazamas.org/resources/geardemo-program/ or just come in to the MMC. Grab a pair for your next trail trips hike and always be sure-footed on tricky terrain. 36 —Mazama Bulletin
for autumn hike with autumn colors. No sign up. 10 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 165 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Oct. 04 (Sat) Lower Salmonberry River. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Walk along an old railroad 10.2 miles 300 ft. Dr. 100 Target/185th 8 a.m. HK C2 Oct. 04 (Sat) Larch Mountain (Multnomah Falls). Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Wilderness— Limit 12. Call to reserve a spot on the hike. At 6:50 the spots will open up! The fall colors will be out. Dress warmly if it’s cold that day. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 7 a.m. HK A2 Oct. 05 (Sun) Observation Peak. Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373. Wilderness—Limit 12. Lets take the “shortcut” into the most outstanding highlights of the Trapper Creek Wilderness. We’ll visit six viewpoints on our way to OB Peak. Beautiful old growth forest, uncrowded trails and possible fall color. A long drive but well worth it. 5.6 miles 1,390 ft. Dr. 120 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Oct. 05 (Sun) Oneonta and Horsetail Falls. Joe Whittington joewhittington@gmail.com. This is a multi-mode Oneonta Gorge experience. Hike the 2.7 mile Horsetail Falls-Oneonta Loop where we can look down the narrow slot of the Oneonta Gorge. Then return to the cars and change into wading clothes. Climb through the log jam and wade 0.5 mile to the base of Lower Oneonta Falls. Bring water shoes/sandals, trekking poles, and dry clothes to change into. Please e-mail leader if you plan to go. 3.7 miles 400 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway P&R 8 a.m. MU HK B1 Oct. 05 (Sun) Tom-Dick Mountain. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Gentle grade to Mirror lake, and then to vistas with mountain view. No sign-up list. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft. Dr. 94 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Oct. 05 (Sun) Horsetail to Wahkeena Traverse. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike features many waterfalls and the rushing waters of Oneonta and Multnomah Creeks. We use a shuttle and go one way from Horsetail Falls to Multnomah Lodge using the Oneonta, Franklin Ridge and Larch Mt. trails. 12.2 miles 3,300 ft. Dr. 63 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Oct. 08 (Wed) 15 Mile Creek. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Scenic downhill then uphill hike on the dry side of Mt. Hood. Old growth Doug Firs, Ponderosa Pines, Noble Firs and Cedars. 10.3 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 175 TH MMC 8 a.m.
Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule. Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m.
HK B2 Oct. 10 (Fri) Tillamook Forest - Wilson River Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. We will start at the Kings Mountain trailhead, hike along the Wilson River to the Tillamook forestry center. Car Shuttle 8 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 90 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK B2 Oct. 11 (Sat) Eagle Creek (Crossover Falls). David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Popular hike in the Gorge with easy access from Portland. We will wander up the Eagle Creek trail passing half a dozen waterfalls, crossing the High Bridge and continuing until we reach Crossover Falls (just past Tunnel Falls). Have lunch and then head back for the cars. Fall colors should be great. Remember to bring food, snacks, water, including the 10 essentials. Contact leader or first come, first served up to wilderness limit. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Oct. 11 (Sat) Gnarl Ridge/Lamberson Butte. Kurt Hiland kurthikes@msn.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Up-close views of Mt. Hood’s summit and Newton Clark glacier will be the reward for this visit to the highest part of the Timberline Trail. On the way down we’ll swing through Elk Meadows and gaze back up at it from down below. Fall comes early on the mountain so be sure to bring warm clothes. 11.5 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 125 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Oct. 12 (Sun) Larch Mountain Crater. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. This hike goes through old growth forest to explore the crater area of Larch Mountain and features the views from Sherrard Point. 6.4 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 58 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Oct. 12 (Sun) Angels Rest/Devils Rest Alternative Route. Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@mentor.com. Contact leader to join this hike. Not your everyday route to Devils Rest. Instead of going up the Angels Rest trail, we’ll ascend to Devils Rest via a little used trail up a ridge to the SE and return via Angels Rest. Bring your gaiters and it’s dog friendly! Exploratory. 8 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 42 Contact leader 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Oct. 12 (Sun) Barrett Spur (Vista Trail). Sojo Hendrix 971-221-9675. Wilderness—Limit 12. Rigorous hike to stunning views of Mt. Hood’s north side atop Barrett Spur, hopefully before the rain and snow sets in. Along Vista Ridge, we will
Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at http://www.meetup.com/mazama-hiking/
Trail Trips Mileage Awards The Trail Trips Committee provides Mileage Awards to Mazama members, leaders and participants, for miles traveled on TTC activities. Awards are presented at The Summit, the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Fest, on Nov. 8. Awards are provided at the following mileage thresholds: 250, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 3,000, 4,000, 5,000, and increments of 5,000 thereafter. Certificates and patches are given for mileage awards, with 1,000 and 5,000 mile awards receiving a plaque. To apply for one of these mileage awards, the hiker must maintain a log of miles travelled on official TTC activities. You can find a copy of this log at mazamas.org/pdf/forms/Trail_Trips_Mileage_Awards_ Sheet.pdf and should submit the log to the TTC chairperson by September 30.
encounter a recovering forest following the 2011 Dollar Lake fire. 8.8 miles 3,435 ft. Dr. 140 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK B2.5 Oct. 15 (Wed) Eagle Creek (Crossover Falls). Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness—Limit 12. Eagle Creek is beautiful any time of the year and never disappoints. Enjoy the changing fall colors and multiple water cascades as we follow Eagle Creek to Crossover Falls as our lunch destination and turn around. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Oct. 18 (Sat) Ft. Vancouver and Riverfront. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. A third Saturday of October tradition with the great colors along Officers Row. Meet at Ft. Vancouver National Park, Pearson Field, corner of 5th and Reserve, Vancouver. Learn about the Fort, downtown landmarks, the riverfront, and visit a farmer’s market and a coffee shop. A leisurely pace with more information than you need! 5 miles 150 ft. Dr. 20 Ft. Vancouver Historic Site, Vancouver 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Oct. 18 (Sat) Wahkeena-Devils Rest Loop. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Great fall colors and waterfalls to start the hike. The trail is more up hill after 2 miles then walk along the ridge. Good workout and short drive! 9.5 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Oct. 19 (Sun) Silver Falls State Park Loop. Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. Photo hike emphasis (but everyone is welcome). Waterfalls and fall colors. Lots of stops. Tripods welcome. Leader will give tips on photography. 7.8 miles 700 ft. Dr. 100 Tualatin (Durham) Park and Ride 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Oct. 19 (Sun) Indian Heaven (Thomas/Bear/ Blue). Kent Ross onebusdog@yahoo.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This section of the Indian Heaven Wilderness is surrounded with lakes. Well worth the drive. 11 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 148 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Oct. 19 (Sun) Rock of Ages Loop. Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Wilderness—Limit 12. This Columbia Gorge classic wastes no time warming up: We’ll catch awe-inspiring views of the majestic Horsetail Falls before leaving the parking lot. The route heads west along the Gorge Trail before turning left onto the unmaintained Rock of Ages Trail and climbing nearly 3,000 ft. to the hike’s apex. Plan on any type of weather. Wear hiking boots, bring gaiters, and please, no cotton clothing such as jean. Trekking poles highly advised. This is an arduous hike, be prepared. http:// www.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip/251760 10.6 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m. MU
HK B2 Oct. 22 (Wed) Bald Butte. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Above Hood River with open meadows and wooded forest this unique hike offers near continuous views of Mt. Hood and the Hood River valley. 8.4 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 144 MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Oct. 25 (Sat) Squaw Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Short hike with solitude in close proximity to Portland. Great views of the Salmon Huckleberry Wilderness, south of Mount Hood. 4.4 miles 1,020 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway Park&Ride 8 a.m. HK B2 Oct. 25 (Sat) Tom-Dick Mountain. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will hike up to Mirror Lake and then up to the ridge top for great views of Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helen’s and other peaks. Fall colors should be great. Have lunch, return to Mirror Lake and hike around the lake before returning. Bring food, snacks, water, including the 10 essentials. Contact leader or first come, first served. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft. Dr. 94 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Oct. 26 (Sun) Horsetail Falls/ Triple Falls Loop. Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@mentor. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We’ll start at Horsetail Falls, head up past Oneonta Falls, then continue to Triple Falls. Bring your camera. Contact leader to sign up and reserve your spot. Dog Friendly. 6.2 miles 1,450 ft. Dr. 60 Contact leader 8 a.m. MU HK B1.5 Oct. 26 (Sun) Riverside Trail of the Clackamas. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Fall colors on riverside walk near Ripplebrook RS. No signup list. 9.2 miles 500 ft. Dr. 104 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Oct. 26 (Sun) Devil’s Peak Lookout (Cool Creek). Sojo Hendrix 971-221-9675. Wilderness— Limit 12. Steep climb to a really nice, well-maintained fire lookout tower. If we are very lucky, we’ll have views which include Mt. Jefferson, Devil’s Tooth Rock, and the Salmon River Valley. 8.2 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Oct. 29 (Wed) Nestor Peak. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Located on the Eastern border of the Cascade Divide, this hike has a mix of east and west side plants and trees. Views of Mt. hood, Mt. Defiance and the Hood River Valley. 8 miles 2,150 ft. Dr. 140 TH MMC 8 a.m.
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU=Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass– Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
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Executive Council Minutes (Official minutes pending approval) Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter–President; Sojo Hendrix– Vice-President; Meg Goldberg– Secretary; Terry Donahe– Treasurer; Amy Mendenhall, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber, Judith Baker, and Lee Davis, Executive Director. Absent: Heather Campbell Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m. Additions to the agenda: Update by Kate Evans of the Classic Mazama Committee. Update by Meg Goldberg on the Outings Fee discussion. The minutes of the August 12, 2014 meeting were approved. Membership Report: There were 40 applications for membership, and no reinstatements. Three members were deceased, Mark Hanschka, Ralph Krellwitz and Chuck Carson. Total membership as of August 31, 2014 was 3400 showing a net increase of 48 members since August 31, 2013. Treasurer’s Report: Filed for audit. Highlights to the Financial Report by Jamie Anderson: As of July 31, 2014, Mazamas assets available for general operations (cash) are $512,580 and current total assets are $1,467,136. July is traditionally a low-income month for Mazamas, and was so this year as well, with $22,791 coming in from activity (primarily hiking and ramble) fees, donations, skill builder registrations, advertising, and miscellaneous small sources. All Conservation grants were paid for, as well as the next phase of production on the Beacon Rock film; otherwise expenses remained normal for a total of $86,208. In the upcoming two months, income from Round the Mountain, ICS, and the next dues cycle, along with the 38 —Mazama Bulletin
first check of the Foundation development grant will improve cash flow. Executive Director’s Report: Oral Report by Lee Davis. • Status of Strategic Plan and grant request to the Mazamas Foundation—a recap of the Sept. 2 meeting with the Mazamas Foundation • Update on Recreation Planning/Permitting initiative by REI—meeting in Atlanta in early October coincident with the NOLS Risk Management Conference • Reminders for upcoming events and meetings through the fall and specifically for our end of fiscal year events • Sept. 13: Access Fund/ Mazamas stewardship event at Broughton Bluff • Sept. 15: Committee Chair Orientation • Sept. 17–18: Reel Rock Film at Hollywood— hosted by Mazamas • Sept. 21: Lodge Gala at Mazama Lodge • Sept. 22: Committee annual meeting reminders (need help from EC Liaisons) • Sept. 26: Youth outreach information night • Sept. 27–28: Wilderness Act Celebration • Sept. 29: Annual reports from all Committees due (need Council Liaison help to collect) • Oct. 6: Volunteer Picnic / Annual meeting/Officer election/October EC meeting • Oct. 17–19: Board retreat at Mt. Adams Lodge • Nov. 5–8: Portland Alpine Festival and Ice Climbing Competition • Ice Wall (Design work, city permitting and preconstruction in progress) • Beacon Film (Fall filming in progress, fundraising stalled) • CISM/Nepal (Over $13K raised!, Coordination with KCC in progress, booking flights very soon)
Sept. 9, 2014
Decisions Requested by Executive Director this month: Budget Approval for 2014-15 Fiscal Year Judith Baker moves to approve the 2014-15 Mazamas Operations and Development Budget. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved Approval of Reserve Funds starting balances: The approval was given by Council at the July 2014 EC meeting. Approval to proceed with initial Strategic and Capital Projects. Retain Alex Kosseff from the Outdoor Safety Institute for introductory work on a detailed work plan November/December. Terry moves to approve retaining Alex Kosseff. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed. Post job opening for parttime Archivist (hiring decision in November) (see below) Design and Bids for MR3 modifications and Design and Bids for Rope Room re-organization. Lee can go forward to get bids and is within the capital maintenance funds already approved by Council. Consent Agenda Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • 20/30s. Sojo moves to accept Matt Reeder as new chair. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. • Climbing Committee • Classic Mazamas • Outings • Risk Management • Strategic Planning • Trail Trips: Sojo moves accept Regis Krug and Terry Lawson as new co-chairs. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Sojo Hendrix moved to accept the consent agenda. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.
Regular Committee Reports Expedition Committee: The committee is requesting grant approval for Rebecca Schob, and Brad Farra “Pursuing Passion in Patagonia: King Lines and Rime.” Primary objective is Cerro Torre and secondary is FitzRoy in December 2015January 2016, Requesting $7,196 and grant decision is for $6,000. David Byrne, Arctic Expedition-Greenland. The primary objectives are Watkins Mountains 10 highest peaks in the arctic; or Scoresbysund Fjord first ascents. The secondary objective is data gathering to support climate science research. Dates are May 2015 with a requested budget of $6,000. Grant decision is $4,000. Terry Donahe moves to approve the grants for expedition. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Classic Mazamas: Kate Evans liaison reported that Old Timers is now the Classic Mazamas. On September 3rd there was a kick off meeting to discuss the name change and the new mission statement for the committee: Classic Mazamas offer year-round outdoor, social and cultural activities targeting members of 25 years or more or those 55 years or older or those who prefer to travel at a leisurely pace. Dick Miller presented the committee attendees with a poster he created of Mt. Hood and told the group how he created the poster. There will be an article in the Bulletin of upcoming events. Council thanked Kate for her work of helping reenergize the committee and thanks to Dick Miller. Old Business Meg Goldberg, liaison Outings Committee. The committee is open to suggestions from EC on how to reconfigure the outings fee waiver for committee members who fulfill their three year commitment.
Natasha Mayestha: Summary of Youth Program Development Intern work • Program: The Mazama Lodge Outdoor Education program—identified pilot project dates (Feb. 2015); developed partnerships with pilot schools (Hayhurst and Peninsula K-8); hosted listening session to identify curriculum requirements; developed grant proposals to fund the $10,000 curriculum development cost; curriculum developer will be contracted through Multnomah Education Service District in October 2014; established Advisory Committees (composed of Mazamas, funders and community partners) to guide the development of this program. • Program: Learn to Climb/Wall climbing class—identified pilot partners and developed funding strategy • Youth Outreach Programs Informational Night: helped plan and promote this event, designed to increase awareness of Mazama youth outreach programs, recruit volunteers and engage donors and connect them with current partners in youth programs. This event will be held Friday, Sept. 26 at 6:30 p.m. Strategic Plan Approval: Judith Baker moves to approve and adopt the Strategic Plan 2015-2017. Motion seconded. Motion Approved. Action: Passed.
New Business Library and Historical Management proposal: Jamie Anderson; At the Spring Retreat, Council directed Jamie to research hiring a part time archivist to oversee the Library and Historical Collection. The primary role of the archive manager would be to restore and expand management of the library and historical collections, and overseeing volunteers and contractors. Jamie presented a proposal to hire a parttime archivist/collections curator to oversee and develop the historical collections and circulating library. Jamie is requesting approval by Council of the proposal. Judith Baker moves to post the job opening for a part time archivist. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed. Meeting adjourned at 8:30 p.m. Next Executive Council Meeting: Monday, October 6, 2014 immediately following the election of officers at the MMC. NOTICE TO MEMBERS The October Executive Council meeting will be held on MONDAY, OCT. 6, 2014 immediately following the election of Officers. REMINDER The Annual Meeting Oct. 6, 2014. Committee Chairs please attend. You will have up to 2 minutes to give your annual report. Written reports are due at the time of the annual meeting to be published in the Mazama Annual.
BHUTAN Lingshi/Laya Gentle Trek 18 October – 09 November 2015 Application Deadline 20 March 2015 Limited to 10 Members
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Mazama Annual Meeting & Volunteer Appreciation Dinner October 6; 5 p.m. at the MMC Council hosts this dinner, catered by Charles Barker of the Mazama Lodge, to honor our volunteers for all they have done this year. We strongly encourage committee chairs to attend the dinner and annual meeting to give your annual reports and brag about what your committee has accomplished. Date: Monday, Oct. 6. Dinner begins at 5 p.m. at the MMC. Meeting begins at 7 p.m. Please RSVP for the dinner to dyfozter@gmail.com. Agenda: Results of the voting for Executive Council and Nominating Committee. Annual reports: president, treasurer, secretary, executive director, foundation, committees. Regular October Executive Council meeting to follow, in lieu of Oct. 14.
VOTE!
Your vote counts. Please take the time to read through the Executive Council Candidate information that you received in the mail (it is also online and was in the Septemer Bulletin.) All members should have received a membership renewal packet in early September, which included the Executive Council Information, ballot, membership renewal information, membership sticker, and return envelope. Ballots must be in the office by Oct. 6 at noon.
Folkways.Institute@gmail.com October/2014—39