September/2014 • Vol. 96 • No. 9 The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.
nesika klatawa sahale— we climb high
FEATURES
Live Your Values: Stewardship, p. 6 Wilderness Month at Mazamas, p. 8 The Future of Wilderness: Getting Back to our Roots, p. 10 Rationing the Wilderness, p. 12 Wilderness Values, p. 13 Meet Your Executive Council Candidates, p. 16 Wim Aarts: Climb Leader Profile, p. 19
MONTHLY COLUMNS
Upcoming Events, p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 7 Mazama Families, p. 15 Lodge News, p. 18 Classic Mazamas, p. 20 20s & 30s Mazamas, p. 21 Membership Report, p. 23 Evening Programs, p. 24 Successful Climbers, p. 25 Trail Trips, p. 26 Outings, p. 29 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30
Cover: Main Photo—Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Wash. Photo: Karl Helser. Inset Photos (left to right): The Wilderness Act recognizes areas “where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” Photo: Adrian Delgado. A marmot in the Mt. Baker wilderness. Photo: Bob Breivogel. Mt. Hood Wilderness Area. Photo: Bob Breivogel. Top Photo: Climber on the knife edge ridge of Eldorado Peak, Wash. Photo: Vaqas Malik.
Contact Us
Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Summer hours—open 7 days a week
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama. ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)
Executive Director’s Report Dear Members— With summer waning we at the Mazamas are in full planning mode to launch our fall series of classes and events, as well as our year-end volunteer appreciation event, annual meeting and election. In addition to all of this Mazama business we have a number of fantastic community events planned, including a celebration for the 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act, a Gala celebration at Mazama Lodge, the Reel Rock film tour, and, finally, the 2nd Annual Portland Alpine Festival, Nov. 4–8. We’re very excited to be doing more each year to invite the broader community of climbers, hikers, skiers and anyone who loves to play in the mountains to engage with the Mazamas. The more we reach out into our community, the more convinced we become that there are thousands of people in our region that hold the Mazamas in high regard, are already qualified for membership and believe in our mission. There are exceptions, but most of these people haven’t joined yet simply because they haven’t been invited. There are also many thousands more in our region that would love to get started exploring, enjoying and protecting the mountains with us through entry level programs like hiking, skiing, sport climbing, backpacking and skill builder classes. So what’s holding us back? Why don’t we just find and invite these people all into our community and take them out in to the mountains?! The basic reason is that our existing systems, committees, volunteers and facilities are already working at near maximum capacity. Breaking through that capacity problem is daunting and poses several interrelated and somewhat unknown challenges. Difficult as this might be, we have a duty to our mission, to our members and the public, to figure out how to solve these problems and continually improve the Mazamas. Our primary tool for doing this over the last ten years has been our strategic plan. We’ve developed at least three complete plans over the last decade, and we’ve certainly seen some change in that time. Mazamas membership has grown by more than 10 percent and we continue to make small gains each month. These gains are generally due to the increased engagement and activity of our programs and events. We’ve been pushing harder to do more each year and as a result more people are having the kinds of experiences that lead them to wanting to join the Mazamas. In the past the Mazamas have created strategic plans, set priorities for key strategies and then generally asked our already very busy volunteers to execute these strategies with only small amounts of funding. That all sounds great, but generally we simply haven’t dedicated enough resources to our priorities to see the results we were looking for. So, projects like growing our education and activity programs, finding and developing more leaders, improving our information systems, and engaging youth, have remained as “top” annual priorities for change for many, many years. (Noted recent exceptions to this statement are the clearly successful capital campaign to buy and renovate the Mazama Mountaineering Center and hire our first volunteer manager.) Also, as you may know if you read our Executive Council minutes, Mazamas is currently in a strong cash position and our net assets are higher than in many recent years. Similarly, a high percentage of our committees are reporting that they have strong leadership, well functioning volunteers and are finding ways to
expand their programs. This information, coupled with continued slow growth in membership is encouraging not only to Executive Council but to our sponsors, partners and primary funders. It shows we’re in a strong, stable position and are well prepared to invest in solving our biggest problems. Over the last year (2014), the Strategic Planning Committee, Executive Council and our staff have again been in close conversation to refine our strategic plan and clarify our priorities. Next month, in the October Bulletin, we will describe our new strategic plan, detail the key projects and priorities and better explain why we believe that pursuing these strategies will help grow our overall capacity to pursue our mission. All of that is great. It’s incredible really, but what’s fundamentally different this time, is that we’ve been seriously researching and planning how we can fund these key projects and focus enough resources on them to see results in the next few years. Overall we have at least ten projects we’d like to plan, execute and evaluate in the next three years. Each of these projects have different costs, risks, and potential funding sources you’ll hear more about in future bulletins. As can be guessed, most projects will be funded through a combination of traditional fundraising, corporate sponsorships, public grants and support from the Mazamas Foundation. (The Mazamas Foundation is a separate 501(c)3 non-profit from the Mazamas that provides a sustaining annual grant to us, the Mazamas, each year which generally funds discretionary annual spending on things like our community grants, capital maintenance and the historical collections.) The Mazamas Foundation is currently considering a request from Executive Council to provide the Mazamas with a three year grant to pursue our key projects and implement our strategic plan. Sizable as this grant may be, we will still be fundraising on a project-byproject basis to make each project a success. Not everyone will want to fund every project, but we’re confident that enough people will be interested in supporting each specific project to make it a success. I’m very excited to say that truly important projects, that we’ve been discussing for years, like reinventing our leadership development systems and structures, updating our information systems and seriously investing in youth outreach will have the resources they need to be successful in the year ahead. With the support of the Mazamas Foundation, our partners, sponsors and members like you we will see huge results. I want to thank everyone who was involved in the planning efforts this year and especially the strategic planning committee, Executive Council and our friends at the Mazamas Foundation. I’m truly excited to see what we can do next year. The pump is primed, the jet is clean and we’ve got plenty of fuel. It’s time to light the stove and get cookin’. Enjoy the last of your summer climb season, and we hope to see you at an upcoming event.
Lee Davis Executive Director
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Upcoming Community & Mazama Events Adopt-A-Crag When: Saturday, Sept. 13 Where: Broughton Bluff Climbing Area The Mazamas and the Access Fund’s Conservation Team will host a trail maintenance (Adopt-a-Crag) event on September 13, 2014 at Broughton Bluff climbing area. This opportunity is open to anyone with trail tending skills or for those looking to learn more. Give back to this local crag (Lewis & Clark State Park, Oregon) and have fun doing it! We’ll have food and drinks for volunteers and some cool swag! Stay tuned for more details Contact: Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org.
REEL Rock 9
THE NORTH FACE®PRESENTS A SENDER FILMS PRODUCTION IN ASSOCIATION WITH CLIF BAR®AND BIG UP RODUCTIONS
When: Sept. 17 & 18 at 7 p.m. Where: Hollywood Theater Tickets: tinyurl.com/reelrock9tickets In its ninth year, the REEL ROCK Film Tour features a special presentation of Valley Uprising. The greatest untold story of American counterculture is that of the Yosemite Valley rock climbers. For the past fifty years, Yosemite’s massive cliffs have drawn explorers and madmen to leave materialism behind and venture onto the high, lonesome granite. The larger-than-life characters of Yosemite carved out an “extreme bohemian” lifestyle in the Valley, living on red wine and boiled potatoes, clashing with National Park authorities, and pioneering the boldest climbs on Earth. The torch has been passed down across three generations of climbers; through rivalries, tragedies and triumphs, the art of Yosemite climbing has advanced beyond anyone’s imagination.
Jim Bridwell Collection
COMING FALL 2014
Valley Uprising is the riveting, unforgettable tale of this bold tradition: half a century of struggle against the laws of gravity—and the laws of the land. Trademarks are properties of their respective owners.
www.reelrocktour.com
Mazama Lodge Gala & Fundraiser When: Sunday, Sept. 21 Where: Mazama Lodge Join us on Sept. 21 for food, fun, camaraderie and a small fundraiser to support annual maintenance and improvements at Mazama Lodge. Learn more about the upcoming parking lot project and future capital improvements to Mazama Lodge!
Celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Wilderness Act When: Saturday, Sept. 27; Noon–8 p.m. Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center, Holman Auditorium Whether or not you were around when the Wilderness Act was signed into law, its passage marks the most significant event that has happened for all of us in recent times. We’ll take an afternoon to both reflect back on the times that surrounded this era in 1964, and also to offer some breakout sessions that will provide insight into current events with wilderness or potential wilderness, by special invited speakers from the conservation community in Oregon. See page 9 for more details.
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Mazama Youth Programs Outreach Event When: Rescheduled for Friday, Sept. 26 at 6:30 p.m. Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center For three months now we have intended to put on an event to rally support around Mazama Youth Outreach Programs. We originally advertised the event as a fundraiser, but many people had questions such as, “can you give me more information?” and “what are these programs all about?” These are great questions, and we decided instead of making a dedicated push for funding, to host a fun informational evening and get everyone as excited as we are. The plain and simple truth is that kids today don’t get enough time outside, and the Mazamas should do something about it. In an article on p. 10, Conservation Committee Co-Chair Ally Imbody makes the case for why it’s important to get kids outdoors. She says it’s crucial to engage the next generation in the enjoyment of nature in order to get them to value and preserve it. Not only are these measures crucial if we want to preserve the places we love to play; but they are also the only way our organization will remain relevant.
Help Us Grow ! Frida y, Sep
t. 26 8:30 p .m. M Moun azama taine Cente ering r 6:30
With our tradition of conservation and education and our ample people power, the Mazamas is not only obliged, but also uniquely poised, to invest in outdoor experiences and education for today’s youth. The time has come to heed this call of duty, and we need your ideas and support to do it. Join us on Friday, Sept. 26 from 6:30–8:30 p.m. at the MMC to meet our partners, hear about youth outreach initiatives and learn about how you can get involved. Please contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, to RSVP.
Craggin’ Classic When: Oct. 10–12 Where: Smith Rock State Park Register for Clinics: cragginclassic.com/#smith (starting Sept. 9) Join the American Alpine Club and C.A.M.P. for the annual Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic happening at Smith Rock State Park. There will be a climbers’ party at Redpoint Climbers Supply on Friday night, Oct. 10. The Crushfest Climbing Competition happens on Saturday, Oct. 11. Clinics and demos will be all day on Saturday, and we’ll have a stewardship day on Sunday, Oct. 12. Clinics will include: Beginning Aid Climbing, Performance Sport Climbing, Rock Warrior’s Way: Falling and Committment, Light & Fast Alpinism, Placing Your Own Gear and Anchors, Climber Self-Rescue, and more. Register for clinics starting on Sept. 9.
Mazama Discovery Night When: Monday, Oct. 20, 6:30–9 p.m. Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center Come join us at Discovery Night! This is a bright and bold celebration of what it means to be a Mazama. Discovery Night is a great opportunity for new and potential members to come and learn about the Mazamas. Come find out about our fun activities, circulate and visit with our experienced members and learn about the different committees that make us work. A great time for current members to come and connect with friends, share experiences and enjoy the camaraderie. Feel free to bring a friend or two!
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Live Your Values: Stewardship by Kati Mayfield Last month, in the first “Live Your Values” column, I introduced the new Mazama Core Value, “Respect.” This month, in honor of the great conservation momentum building in the celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act, I want to talk about our Core Value of Stewardship, “At the Mazamas, we believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization.” Before reading this core value, I always associated the concept of stewardship with conservation alone: Stewardship of natural wonders, trails and ecosystems. But it is logical that the Mazamas, as staunch stewards of the environment, should also be stewards of our own story. It is thanks to such stewardship that we can look back over a century through our organizational records and learn that in the early days, stewardship efforts were the central focus of our club. The early labors of the Mazamas were to travel to and investigate the geography, geology flora, and fauna of the Pacific Northwest,
then to document their research in scientific journals and the Mazama Annual. Thanks to their diligent record keeping and to the preservation of these records over the years, the Mazamas boasts an incredible archive, library and museum, chock-full of Mazama heritage and factoids. Evidence of this recordkeeping can be seen on pp. 12–13, where you can read reprinted articles from the 1963 Annual on the importance of wilderness. Modern-day stewardship efforts include active accession of books, photos, journals, and mountaineering equipment for the library, museum and archives; maintenance of the Mazama Lodge, one of our greatest assets and historical treasures; and trail stewardship through the Trail Tending Committee. Indeed, we do pursue stewardship efforts. Yet, as Ally Imbody points out in The Future of Wilderness Conservation on page 10, our public lands need much greater stewardship if we are to preserve them, so do the assets which the Mazmas has sworn to protect. Consider our trail tending- the annual Mazama Trail work party exemplifies a commitment we have made and kept for
twenty years, with Ray Sheldon and Rick Pope having just hosted a successful work party there in July. Due to a dearth of trail tending leaders, this is one of the few committed trail tending activities we do each year. Look also at our library, museum and archives, which have a core of dedicated volunteers but need a major investment of time and resources to update our collection to the 21st century. We cannot simply rest on the laurels of previous generations of Mazamas. This month, as you browse our library and relish the trails and late summer trips to the Mazama Lodge, think of how you might become a steward of these resources for the next generations of Mazamas (may there be many!). A few opportunities: join us on Sunday, Sept. 21 for a gala at the Mazama Lodge, which will raise money for maintenance and capital improvements; or on Saturday, Sept. 27 for Wilderness Act 50th Anniversary celebrations. If you enjoy these activities or see examples of your fellow Mazamas being great stewards of our natural and cultural resources, share those stories on the Live Your Values page on the Mazama website.
Spend five days trekking a remote Bedouin trail to the ancient city of Petra. Additional nights in the desert of Wadi Rum and Amman. Ranked by National Geographic as one of the 15 best hikes in the world, this trip is supported. You do not have to carry any gear. Contact Donovan Pacholl for the full itinerary.
donovan@embarkadventures.com/503-922-1050. 6 —Mazama Bulletin
Volunteer Opportunities
by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org
Classic Mazamas Committee
20s&30s Climb Night Hosts
Wednesday, Sept. 3 6 p.m.
First Monday of the Month
Join the Classic Mazamas (formerly Old Timers) to help plan activities for those looking to travel at a more leisurely pace. We are recruiting for the following positions: Chair, Communications Manager (to moderate the listserv), and Activity Planners to lead hikes and social/cultural excursions. Contact Kate Evans, kateevans97@gmail. com, or join us for our September meeting.
Climb Night is held each month throughout the fall and winter for Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. We need friendly Climb Night Hosts to welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up with partners. Hosts can choose the climbing gym at which to host. Contact Matt Reeder, 20sand30s@mazamas.org, if interested.
Lodge Committee Tuesday, Sept. 23 at 6:30 p.m. Calling all lovers of the Mazama Lodge: the Lodge Committee is recruiting volunteers for two open positions: 1. Friends of the Lodge (FOTL) will engage members by maintaining the roster and communicating a list and schedule of needs. 2. Secretary will attend meetings to record, distribute and publish minutes; and will contribute to the Lodge column in the Mazama Bulletin. Learn more by attending our meeting; or contact chair, Bob Stayton, rstayton@comcast.net.
Election Ballot Counters Monday, Oct. 6, 1:30–5 p.m. Nominating Committee seeks volunteers to assist with compiling and counting ballots for the annual election of Executive Council members. Sign up for 3 hour shifts from 1:30–5 p.m. Contact Amad Doratotaj, Nominating Committee Chair, at amad4outdoors@gmail.com.
Front Desk Volunteers Mondays, Tuesdays or Wednesdays, 4–7 p.m. Front Desk Office Volunteers are integral to operations of the MMC. They conduct a large portion of the daily business including: responding to queries, processing applications and payments and maintaining databases. Volunteers should be confident with basic software and web-based applications and have good customer service skills. Contact Kati@mazamas.org.
Ice Wall Volunteers
MMC Clean-up-Team Ongoing Want to help keep the MMC tidy and presentable? Want to learn recycling from an expert? Not glorious work but much appreciated and something that will make a difference at our “home in town.” Contact Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com.
Mazama Families Hike Leader Ongoing
October We need a Site Foreman for the Ice Wall construction project, as well as “B-n-b” volunteers to lend their guest rooms to the contractors who will be on-site 3-4 days. Site Foreman needs to be an experienced and reliable individual who can work with the rest of the site team. B-n-b volunteers will be asked to provide lodging, the Mazamas will cover food for those days. Dates for construction will be in early to mid-October. Contact Project Manager Mike Magyar, mike. magyar@gmail.com if you can help.
The Mazama Families Committee is looking for hike leaders! You may be a current hike leader or be totally new, we will train you! Family hike leaders should be enthusiastic about working with kids, and must be willing to obtain a basic first aid certification and pass a background check. Contact Bob Murphy, families@mazamas.org, for more information.
Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
Financial Affairs Committee Ongoing Help Mazama classes and committees understand their money! Join the Financial Affairs Committee to help prepare our annual budget and quarterly reforecasts and advise Executive Council on financial and accounting decisions. Contact Chris Simmons, Chair, at casimmons1@gmail.com.
Dues Processing Volunteers Flexible, Sept. & Oct. If you have availability weekdays, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon.–Thur., in September and October and would like to help us sort and process ballots and membership dues renewals, contact Jamie Anderson, jamie@mazamas.org.
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
September/2014—7
Wilderness Month at Mazamas by John Rettig This September marks the 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act, and Mazamas are doing a number of things throughout the month to commemorate this monumental piece of legislation. When President Lyndon Johnson signed the Wilderness Act into law on September 3, 1964, he uttered these now-famous words: “If future generations are to remember us with gratitude rather than contempt, we must leave them a glimpse of the world as it was in the beginning, not just after we got through with it.” The original act included 54 areas in 13 mostly western states, totaling 9.1 million acres. It represented a significant compromise; it had already been through nine years and 65 rewrites in the making. Early opposition included timber, mining, and cattle industries, as well as the very Federal agencies overseeing the lands that were proposed for wilderness—the USFS, BLM, NPS, and USFW. The Mazamas, the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs, and many individual Mazama members were involved in a supportive role in this huge grassroots struggle from its inception, and many who participated at that time are still with us. They well remember what it took to push this piece of legislation through. In Oregon, the original act included only nine areas, including Mt. Hood, Three Sisters, and Mt. Washington. But they were key areas. Since much of what the Mazamas do, including most all of our climb activities and a significant number of trail trip activities, takes place in wilderness, one could
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say that this act has had a huge impact on us—we simply exist and can do what we do because of the protection afforded by this law. Yet, Mt. Jefferson was not included in the original 1964 law. Nor were significant areas around Mt. Hood, Three Sisters, and the Hatfield Wilderness. Crater Lake National Park to this day does not include any wilderness designated lands. Activists at the time who witnessed the compromises that went into the legislation fortunately didn’t rest, and significant wilderness additions in Oregon were made in 1968, 1974, 1984, 2000, and 2009. Oregon now has 47 wilderness areas totaling 2.6 million acres. And there are significant efforts in the making; the most prominent would designate a Crater Lake Wilderness, and further add to the Mt. Hood Wilderness. Nationally, we are now at 759 designated wilderness areas in 44 states, and 109.5 million acres total. But wilderness is more than just numbers, land, acreage, law, and management—it affects how we as people view ourselves in the world around us, and what responsibilities it conveys. Just knowing it is there and available for us changes our perspective— we can have that sense of the “world as it was in the beginning, not just after we got through with it.” What a different world it would be without wilderness! As you read through this issue and ponder both what it means to have wilderness, and to have it so accessible to Mazamas primary activities, consider participating in some of our special activities offered.
Get Involved! Join us at the in MMC to celebrate the 50th Anniversary, p. 9 Join Conservation Committee for a fall tree planting in the Mt. Hood National Forest, p. 21 Take a hike into a wilderness area, and learn of the special significance of that area, p. 26 Nearing the Titcomb Lakes Basin, at the base of the Wind River Range.Bridger Wilderness, Wyo. Photo: Karl Helser
Three Sisters Wilderness, Ore. Photo: Karl Helser
Celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Wilderness Act at the MMC! When: Saturday, Sept. 27; Noon–8 p.m. Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center, Holman Auditorium Whether or not you were around when the Wilderness Act was signed into law, its passage marks the most significant event that has happened for all of us in recent times. We’ll take an afternoon to both reflect back on the times that surrounded this era in 1964, and also to offer some breakout sessions that will provide insight into current events with wilderness or potential wilderness, by special invited speakers from the conservation community in Oregon. The keynote will be delivered by Mike McCloskey, who early in his career was involved in the campaign to get the Wilderness Act adopted, and worked to remove obstacles to its enactment. He later went on to work for the national Sierra Club for four decades, ending up as CEO and Chairman. He has recently written a well-received book on the background of successful efforts to preserve the environment in Oregon. Before that, he wrote his memoirs and described the issues he faced in his career. Most recently, he has served as chair of Portland’s Heritage Tree program. Afterward, we’ll have a social hour, followed by a barbeque outside (weather permitting).
Get to Know: Michael McCloskey Michael McCloskey worked for the national Sierra Club for four decades, ending up as CEO and Chairman. He has recently written a well-received book on the background of successful efforts to preserve the environment in Oregon. Before that, he wrote his memoirs and described the issues he faced in his career. Most recently, he has served as chair of Portland’s Heritage Tree program. He was educated at Harvard and earned a law degree from the University of Oregon. For a time, he served as an adjunct faculty member at the University of Michigan’s school of Natural Resources.
In his career, he was recognized with many awards, including the John Muir award from the Sierra Club and one from the World Conservation Union. He has served as chairman of the Natural Resources Council of America and the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs. Early in his career he was involved in the campaign to get the Wilderness Act adopted, and worked to remove obstacles to its enactment. As a youth, he climbed mountains in Oregon and was active in scouting. Later he served as an officer in the U.S. Army.
Definition of Wilderness— from the 1964 Wilderness Act A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain. An area of wilderness is further defined to mean in this Act an area of undeveloped Federal land retaining its primeval character and influence, without permanent improvements or human habitation, which is protected and managed so as to preserve its natural conditions and which (1) generally appears to have been affected primarily by the forces of nature, with the imprint of man’s work substantially unnoticeable; (2) has outstanding opportunities for solitude or a primitive and unconfined type of recreation; (3) has at least five thousand acres of land or is of sufficient size as to make practicable its preservation and use in an unimpaired condition; and (4) may also contain ecological, geological, or other features of scientific, educational, scenic, or historical value.
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The Future of Wilderness Conservation: Getting Back to our Roots by Ally Imbody
A
s we celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act and reflect on all of our accomplishments over the years, we are simultaneously charged with the complex challenges that will define the future of mountain conservation. I recently attended the American Alpine Club Sustainable Summits Conference in Golden, CO, to gain some perspective on the tough issues where climbers and conservationists around the world are focusing their attention. I spoke with land managers and park rangers, nonprofit and industry leaders, scientists and researchers, athletes and guides, representing the mountains of France, Peru, New Zealand, Tanzania, Japan, Iran, Austria, Argentina, Sweden, Nepal, Pakistan, Canada, Antarctica, and all over the US. We discussed topics ranging from waste management and disposal, the environmental and social impacts of climbing, the importance of individual stewardship and Leave No Trace ethics, and how we can better collaborate with land managers and build support for conservation and sustainable access policies. This was an excellent opportunity to network, promote the conservation work that the Mazamas have been doing in the northwest and nationally, and build strategies for the future.
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My key takeaway from Golden has been that successful mountain conservation will continue to require high-level advocacy and involvement in coalitions, but just as important will be grassroots efforts to build out a base of support and remain relevant. That means educating new climbers and recreationists on how to enjoy the outdoors responsibly and build personal relationships with the land. These relationships have been directly linked to promoting individual stewardship and support for conservation efforts and policy reform, in studies like a recent report commissioned by the Nature Conservancy titled “Outdoor Experiences Lead to Conservation Support.” These studies show that people who have personal, positive experiences with nature are twice as likely to view themselves as conservationists, and are significantly more likely to express concern for the overall condition of the environment and support environmental protection. Unfortunately the same studies are finding that kids in particular are spending less and less time outside, and are missing out on the kind of experiences that could make them passionate wilderness advocates. I talked with conservationists from all Seven Summits who confirmed that relevancy is one of their greatest challenges, across diverse cultures that are becoming increasingly disconnected with the natural world. While climbing as
a sport is exploding, I would argue that the quality of the climbing experience is declining for many new to the sport. A lack of traditional mentorship can be a formidable barrier to applying skills honed indoors in the wild and remote places that motivated the pioneers of the sport. More and more climbers are going straight from the gym to the crag without a basic understanding of their impact, which can ruin the experience for others or give climbers in general a bad rep and result in access issues that affect us all. Even more people are never leaving the gym, never building a special relationship with the outdoors that is so critical to groups like the Mazamas, and could help us reach a critical mass needed to affect positive change. Reaching out to help get more members of our community, especially groups like children, urban youth, and other nontraditional user groups to share our love of the outdoors is not only the right thing to do; it’s critical to our organization remaining relevant. Of course, it’s not so simple, and while getting more people outside can help build an army of outdoor enthusiasts dedicated to protecting the places we all love, we also know that there is a delicate balance with minimizing the impact we have on fragile alpine environments and complex ecosystems. This is the key challenge we will face going forward as an organization dedicated to both recreation and conservation.
Both access and education in tandem are necessary for fostering a greater conservation ethic. It’s our responsibility to help get more people, especially young people, outside and also teach them to enjoy natural environments responsibly. There are three key ways we plan to do this: 1. Grants and Fundraising: The Conservation Committee administers and manages several grant funds to support local partners dedicated to conservation, such as the Siskyou Mountain Club, which provides outstanding and challenging outdoor conservation activities for young volunteers. In addition to these existing funds, the Mazamas will be fundraising and offering volunteer support for additional programs that are working directly to get underserved groups outside. 2. Education and Outreach: The Mazamas will be working with Leave No Trace PEAK (Promoting Environmental Awareness in Kids) to develop curriculum for our youth outreach programs and for schools and community organizations to help promote LNT principles, individual stewardship
ethics, and the values that guide us as an organization dedicated to preserving natural environments. This will be the first step in larger efforts to empower more young people enjoying the outdoors responsibly. 3. Engaging our Members: We plan to do a better job of talking to the greater membership and learning what issues are important to you. We welcome input at our monthly Conservation Committee meetings, and will be sending a survey out to everyone this winter that will help guide the policy agenda going forward. I am excited to be working with the staff and several volunteers to support these conservation strategies as part of the Mazamas Youth Outreach Program. We want to create more shared outdoor experiences for younger generations, and provide opportunities to engage with nature and the environment. We are developing initiatives to help education and youth workers teach kids about the outdoors and environmental ethics, and creating opportunities for schools and nonprofits to engage their kids in our mission. My hope is that these programs will encourage children who
might not otherwise have exposure to wild spaces, to interact with nature and learn basic stewardship principles like Leave No Trace. I can personally attest to how much outdoor experiences have had a positive impact on my own life, and I want to share the freedom of the hills with as many people as possible, especially the young people who will be tasked with continuing the next 50 years of wilderness conservation and beyond. Please join us for a family-friendly youth outreach brainstorming session on Sept. 26 (the first night of our Wilderness Act 50th Anniversary Celebration) if you are interested in learning more, getting involved, or know of some kids who may benefit. I invite you to also let us know if there is a group that you are already involved with outside the Mazamas that you want to help get outside. In the mean time get outside yourself and try to expose your friends and neighbors who may not otherwise feel inspired or capable of doing so without your support. Getting back to our roots is as simple as getting more people to share our love of the outdoors, but it is a critical part of the conservation strategy that might make all the difference in the long-run.
Inset Photos (l to r): The wilderness area of the Inyo National Forest and Mt. Whitney inspired John Muir to become one of the greatest proponents of wilderness conservation. Photo: Ally Imbody. Mazamas crossing a creek near Chiwawa Mountain (Wash.). Photo: Bob Breivogel. Mt. Baker at sunset from Twin Lakes Road. Photo: Bob Breivogel. Mt. Hood from Cairn Basin. Photo: Bob Breivogel.
September/2014—11
Looking back fifty years The two unabridged articles that appear on the next two pages were first printed in the December, 1963 Mazama, in a special section entitled “Wilderness Usage.” They predate the Wilderness Act being signed into law by exactly nine months, and reflect many of the thoughts and discussions being advanced at the time regarding how wilderness usage should be set up. In a nutshell, they also bookend many of our present day arguments of access versus impact.
Rationing the Wilderness by Donald McKinley. M.D. (Reprinted from the December, 1963
Mazama)
T
HOSE who like to hike into the woods, up narrow valleys, out unto high ridges and among the glaciers and tams of alpine country, are finding in an increasing frequency chance encounters with other people. Little lakes that are just right for one small band of companionable people are fast becoming a focal point for crowds of 30 and 40. The high ridges in summertime, formerly remote and lonely, are often well trodden pedestrian ways. What were little used camp sites are not» becoming trampled encampments. Solitude in the out of doors is getting harder and harder to find. This crowding just described is already alarming in the better known recreation areas and it can be expected that in a relatively few years from new it will apply to all the recreation areas in the United States, barring some phenomenal reversal of the recreational instinct or some unthinkable catastrophe. It may not be a Very pleasant idea but I think it is realistic to expect that in the future the population density throughout the United States will approach that in India and China today. One of the major questions in the future then will be where to go and what to do for respites from constant contact with people. Will we be forced to resort to the opium pipe or induced trances? Will we all have our own individual soundproof, air conditioned sleeping cubicles? Whatever the customs of the times may be we can be sure that the demands upon outdoor recreation in all forms, from Coney Island to the Alaskan interior, will be extreme. Even today we hear the clamor for more and more dedicated wilderness space because already our opportunities for true wilderness experience are being hampered by crowding and misuse. The true wilderness experience is a distinct and unique emotional phenomenon having the depth of impact and renewal capacity of a religious experience. Not all people experience it, but for those who do it is a most important ingredient to their individual adaptation to life’s stresses and strains. Opportunities to know it can be a real necessity. Knowing it even just once in a lifetime can have a lasting rejuvenating capacity, simply from remembering it. Some sense of satisfaction can be obtained by those who have never personally known it through reading about it as experienced by others and believing that it could be possible for themselves. The circumstances that make possible the true wilderness experience in the fullest sense are quite specific. The individual
12 —Mazama Bulletin
concerned must spend his own physical energy walking or climbing into a place with wilderness characteristics. Riding in a car, airplane, or motorbike is fine in itself, but robs the person of one of the elements that makes the experience most enjoyable. His own output of energy enhances the value of the experience in proportion to the difficulties of the enterprise. Another essential element is that the wilderness traveler must not be in a state of tension or conflict with other people with whom he travels. There must be-companionability. Covert friction most effectively dampens the outcome. Thirdly there must be minimal evidence of man in the present as well as in the past. Signs of civilization such as old machinery, dwellings, logging operations and so forth must be only faintly in the background or not present at all. Even the white streak of a high flying jet can detract from the joy of the moment. Lastly there is needed a visual scene that is impressive because of its physical size, and which may provide reminders of the vastness of time or the effects of weather and other natural forces. It ought to contain evidences of animal and plant life with both favorable and unfavorable circumstances as demonstrations of the adaptability and versatility of nature, its vagaries and intricacies. Given all these conditions a man can gain a new perspective about himself and all that is about him. He can see nothing but vastness and complexity in an overwhelming proportion in comparisons to which he himself is transient and small. He can see that all the things that have been his concern in civilized life, in the long run don’t really count for much. For the moment he can forget everything except the beauty and awe that surrounds him. He can relax, no struggle is needed. A peace settles upon him and even in his littleness of the moment he is at the same time very important because he is the center of all that he can perceive about him. This kind of an awareness is not possible when there are too many people around or evidence of too many people or evidence of people in the past or present who have been disrespectful of the natural setting. These things tend to destroy some or all of the sense of fulfillment that should accompany excursions into the wilderness. For this reason it is becoming increasingly apparent that to provide opportunities into the indefinite future for this experience stringent controls on both the number of people and the behavior of people in the wilderness will be reluctantly necessary. Such controls we must begin now. Already we need a reservation system accompanied by a coordinated dispersal program for maximum enjoyment in the more popular areas.
Wilderness Values by Austln F. Hamer (Reprinted from the December, 1963 Mazama)
W
ilderness may be found in an area of land, an expanse of forest or barren land beyond civilization, uncultivated and uninhabited by humans it challenges man and invites him to adventure. It refreshes his body and mind, and inspires wonder, awe, and appreciation of nature. But what Wilderness really is less important than what it does for the people who partake of a wilderness experience. This is what needs definition. The predominant character of wilderness is the result of the interplay of natural processes in an area large enough and so situated as to be unaffected, except in minor ways, by what takes place in the non-wilderness around it. For the visitor, the natural environment is the essential resource of wilderness. In his book Environmental Conservation Raymond F. Dasmann says: “Wilderness stands as a unit of measurement against which we estimate Progress or loss in our deformation of natural landscapes in managed areas. It stands as a. reservoir and refuge for those wild Plants and animals difficult to fit into the managed landscape. It stands as a sanctuary for people seeking to keep contact with primitive- values.” Today the U. S. National Park Service administers more than 22 million acres in 66 scenic-scientific parks, monuments, and other areas. According to the Park Service, the “nation’s most treasured wilderness lands are set apart and dedicated as national Parks and monuments ... to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife therein, and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” The U.S. Forest Service conceives of wilderness lands as those predominantly valuable as wilderness to be managed and maintained indefinitely for their out-ofthe-ordinary values. Such lands have a combined area of over 14 million acres in 83 separate tracts, all sharing a primeval character, the identifying mark of wilderness. These lands encompass desert
country and brushland, virgin timber stands, great valleys and alpine meadows, and some of the nation’s loftiest mountains. Positive management Sign at the Trailhead for Church Mountain. Photo: Bob Breivogel in the form of controlled experience not always duplicated by grazing, others. When it comes he learns to trail building, fire protection, and the appreciate the beauty of the land he sees, designation and supervision of camping thrill to the solitude of open spaces, drink spots is considered necessary to prevent in the quietness and feel the restoration damage to soil and vegetation. Resorts, of body, mind and soul. Perhaps what organization camps, summer homes, and we, as lovers of the outdoors, citizen similar uses are not permitted. conservationists, and Mazamas, are really Such wilderness lands as are now trying to pass on to our heirs is the ability under the jurisdiction of the Park Service to understand our culture in relation to and Forest Service are held in trust wilderness. Aldo Leopold in Sand County and managed for all present and future Almanac said, “Wilderness is the raw citizens. We can use and enjoy them material out of which man has hammered even as we make ready to pass them on the artifact called civilization. Wilderness to other generations as a cherished and was never a homogenous raw material. enduring part of our American heritage. It was very diverse, and the resulting The need for such areas is accepted by artifacts are diverse. These differences in resource management agencies, outdoor the end product are as cultures. The rich lovers and many citizens from all walks diversity of the world’s cultures reflects a of life. corresponding diversity in the wilds that One of the first Americans to sense gave them birth.” the need for wilderness, and to speak out In our passion to preserve wilderness for preservation of wild lands, was Henry for its own sake we are creating a Thoreau. The need 100 years ago was paradox which could ultimately destroy not as immediate as it is now. Population that which we seek to preserve. If we growth and civilization’s constant teach our children to cherish wilderness reaching for even the remotest lands has as such, they must see and use wilderness. provided warning that without protection When enough have viewed it and used none of our lands would remain forever it there may be no wilderness left to wild. But were he and like men merely cherish. We must leave as a heritage to hoping to forestall the day when the last those who follow some lands of sufficient vestige of wild land had been engulfed size in which to practice the primitive by the inexorable appetite of civilization? arts of wilderness travel, back-packing Could they also have been thinking of and canoeing. And while placing values wilderness as a quality - defined in terms upon such wild lands for recreation, of personal experience, a state of mind, our successors also must know how the feelings, or benefits? Thoreau said in wilderness of a Central Park, where, in Walden, “Solitude is not measured by solitude, the cares of the mind and spirit the miles of space that intervene between can be shed, and the tired body refreshed. a man and his fellows.” On the shores Wilderness—created by God, molded of Walden pond, only a short distance by nature, the province of wild creatures, from civilization, he had experienced a retreat for man. wilderness. The real understanding of wilderness may come to each person from Personal September/2014—13
It’s Mazama Annual Time! The Publications Committee is already planning the 2014 Annual. We would love to hear about your adventures in 2014, especially any climbing-related stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas. We will help you edit any submissions you make. We’d also encourage you to submit highresolution photos of climbing, hiking or backpacking, even if they are not attached to an article. We typically include a number of stand-alone photos and we especially need vertically-oriented (portrait mode) pictures. Photos must be 300 dpi. Please give your photographs a descriptive file name and submit with a photo caption and credit. You can submit your photos and articles to: mazama.annual@mazamas.org Deadlines: • All reports are due Oct. 15 (commitee, outings (except fall), administrative) • Feature articles are due Nov. 15 • Photos are due Nov. 15 • Climbs and hikes (spreadsheets) are due by Dec. 15 Many thanks—Mazama Publications Committee.
14 —Mazama Bulletin
Daniel Smith (far right) leads a group of Mazamas on the Yocum Ridge Hike.
Mazama Families
The Larch Mountain on Friday and two more conditioning hike was families joined the first very successful, with 5 group Saturday afternoon at kids trekking from the Wy’east Basin for a night of Multnomah Falls parking camping with an incredible lot to the Larch Mountain nighttime view of the Coe Crater. Nearly all of the Glacier. Once at camp, all kids are headed out to 10 kids became fast friends various mountain climbs this enjoying the snow and summer, so this long day was nearby trees, scrambling on a great step in their training, the talus field and playing both physical and mental. cards and other games well A get-together at Rooster into the darkness. Rock, complete with Family Climb Night picnic, was successful again returns to the MMC in this year, with 10 adults September. This is a perfect and 7 kids summiting. venue to get your kids Congratulations to Evan comfortable with roped Kelly (11), Ruby Kofron climbing and to practice (8), Zella Kofron (7), Sam new skills such as belaying O’Leary (9), Erik Rotherham and rappelling. Other games (11), Julia Rotherham (7) along with the toddler train and Ruby Taylor (9). A big table will be available. In thank you to Craig Martin addition, Eric Einspruch for organizing the practice has recently scheduled two sessions and the event, as new in town hikes. For well as to all the volunteers more information, please made it a success: George visit our web page at www. Cummings, Eric Einspruch, mazamafamilies.org. Bob Murphy, Justin All of our activities Rotherham and Stephanie continue to fill up quickly— Spence. Smith Rock weekend, for Eric Einspruch led a instance, had 18 families fabulous backpack traumaon&the PTSD sign up in the first week and & PTSDnorthern flanks of Mt. the Families Mountaineering Anxiety & Depression Hood. So many people 101 course is quite nearly Depression applied thatAddictions attendees were full. We need more help in s divided intoStress 2 groups; 3 leading families on outdoor families hiked to Elk Cove adventures. If you have any EMDR
interest in becoming a leader, let us support you through the process. If you love to plan events, we can use your help too—even if you are not currently a Mazama leader. We have been already been working hard to recruit and support new activity leaders—both hike and climb leaders—through the Leadership Development process. Congratulations to Bill Stein and Charles Blanke for becoming Trails Trip and Families Hike leaders, Craig Martin for being promoted to Climb Leader and Families hike leader and Justin Rotherham for being promoted to Provisional leader. Other upcoming activities: Legendary rock anchor instructor and allaround good guy John Godino just added a Families Orienteering event to the calendar for October 19; a full description is found here: https://docs.google. com/document/d/1GrkXk FOglE9pcYj9OTeT7SqqF Ed36O6U7--djEYC4DA/ edit?usp=sharing.
little steps lead to BIG STEPS
Ruby Taylor getting started on her way up Rooster Rock. Photo: Paul Taylor
Kids’ Corner by Ruby Taylor Rooster Rock A few weekends ago I climbed Rooster Rock. It was really fun and challenging. When we had only a few yards left we looked down and could see a bald eagle’s nest, which had an eagle in it. There were also some other bald eagles flying nearby. On top, even though it was small, there was an amazing view of the Columbia Gorge. I rappelled down with my dad who got quite tired. It was pretty fun.
Drew Prochniak
MA, LPC, LMHC
Supporting the health, well being, and potential of Portland residents a PTSD anxiety de traum pre ssion MDR addictions stress E 503.308.9408
www.dprochniak.com
September/2014—15
Meet Your Candidates
Executive Council Candidate Statements
The Annual Election Ballots are due by noon on Monday, Oct. 6. You may choose to mail your ballot our drop it off at the MMC. All current members should receive ballots in the mail no later than September 5. Please contact the office if you do not receive yours.
Daniel Bailey member since 2006 Profession: Software Engineer Mazama Committee Experience: First Aid Committee, 2006–08 Climbing Committee, 2011–present Mazama Activity, Volunteer Participation, and Awards: Mazamas Cohort Program Assistant, 2014; BCEP Instructor, 2011–present; Climb Leader, 2009-present; BCEP Assistant, 2007–10; ICS Instructor, 2007–present; AYM Hike Leader, 2007–present; Map and Compass Skillbuilder, 2010–11; 15 Point Leader Award (eligible, 2014); 10 Point Leader Award (eligible, 2013); 5 Point Leader Award, 2012 Board and/or Committee Experience in Other Organizations (business or nonprofit): Tau Beta Pi, Engineering Honor Society, Chapter President, Portland State University (PSU), 2002–03; Eta Kappa Nu, Electrical Engineering Honor Society, Chapter Treasurer, PSU, 2002–03; Portland State IEEE Student Branch, Chapter Treasurer, PSU, 2002–03 Leadership and/or Professional Skills: I’m very organized, am able to prioritize a list of tasks, and focus on the most important tasks without neglecting the less important tasks. I’m able to gauge and recognize the abilities and skills of others, delegate tasks to them, and be comfortable knowing that the tasks will be done. At work, I’m the senior member of my group and am a trainer for new employees. I’ve been a Mazamas Climb Leader since 2009 and a BCEP leader since 2011. I’m an effective manager; I’m able to research climb routes, organize teams, and successfully execute climbs. I’m an experienced writer (both creative and technical). I’m an effective communicator; I’m able to speak clearly, listen to others, process what they’ve said, and respond appropriately. I’m patient, caring, diligent, and have a keen eye for detail. I am able to see the big picture. I have a sense of humor. Goals and Values that you, as an Executive Council Member, would
like to champion for Mazamas: Communication: I want our members to know what is going on within our organization. Diligence: I want our members to know that our goals are being achieved with care and conscientiousness. Education: I want top–notch climbing education to be available to all of our members. Respect and integrity: I want our members to treat each other well and to work together to meet goals. Accountability and honesty: While people are going to make mistakes, these can be opportunities for growth. Said mistakes should be owned up to but shouldn’t be proverbial nails in the coffin. Personal Statement: I’m extremely passionate about the Mazamas Mountaineering Organization. From my first climbs in 2006 until the present, I have put 99.9996% of my energy into my Mazamas related tasks and will continue to do so. My presence in the Mazamas began with taking BCEP in March, 2006 with the simple goal of climbing Mount St. Helens though I completed ICS (2006–07) and entered the Leadership Development (LD) program within the next 18 months. Upon completing LD, I became a BCEP instructor and have led four BCEP teams to date. It’s not uncommon to hear me say that BCEP is my favorite time of the year and I hope to continue leading BCEP teams for the foreseeable future. As a climb leader, I average 12 climbs per year on the printed schedule but often end up leading more. Given that the focus of the Mazamas is climbing, I believe that it’s important for there to be a continued climb leader presence on the Executive Council. As a climb leader, I believe that I’m capable of accurately representing the interests of climbers within our organization. I’m also interested in promoting the growth of our organization. I believe an increased presence in the climbing community will bring added benefit to our members. In general, my word is my bond. That is, if I say that I will do something, I will absolutely do it. I promise to devote my energy, attention, and communication skills to making positive changes for the Mazamas.
Sunny Freeman member since 2008 Profession: Real Estate Broker Mazama Committee Experience: Ski Mountaineering, 2009–2013 Mazama Activity, Volunteer Participation, and Awards: Ski Mountaineering, 2009–present; Avalanche Level II certification, 2009; Avy Skill Builder Class Coordinator, 2009–11; BCEP graduate, 2010; Crevasse Rescue Skillbuilder student, 2010; MFA graduate, 2010; MFA volunteer instructor, 2010–13; Avy Class instructor, 2009–present; Mazama Families member, 2013–present Hike Leader in training. Board and/or Committee Experience in Other Organizations (business or nonprofit): Ongoing & Current: Member of Friends of Tryon Creek, Friends of Opal Creek; Portland Public School Foundation Auction Chair; Stephenson Elementary PTA member; Jackson Middle School PTA member; Riverwest Sunday School Teacher; Parent teaching assisting in elementary school classrooms; First Responder. Leadership and/or Professional Skills: Education and Training; Account Management; Financial & Budgeting; Emergency Room Technician; Nursing School; Search and Rescue training; Event Planning; Fundraising; Negotiations; Marketing; Public Speaking; Volunteer Coordinating; Leadership; Mentor Goals and Values that you, as an Executive Council Member, would like to champion for Mazamas: The Mazamas are a vibrant organization, one I am proud to be a member. My current passion is the Mazama Families group as I believe in order to grow and ensure the future of the Mazamas, we need to engage all populations. I look forward to supporting outreach opportunities to families and youth, while continuing to further my involvement in the Mazamas. As a successful business owner, I understand the need for fiscal responsibility and long term planning. I will endeavor to guide the growth of the Mazamas with integrity and responsibility. Thank you for considering me for Executive Council. Personal Statement: In my short seven years as a Mazama member, and a mother of 3 young children, I have taken every advantage of what the Mazamas have to offer and always chosen to give back. I have been progressively more involved and have gained a stronger understanding of the challenges, tasks and opportunities that lie ahead. My passion is education and my goal is to lead the Mazamas in the direction they are headed; to assist with fundraising and to have them be seen in the community as not only a member of the climbing and mountain community, but the local community as well. My history as an Emergency Room Technician, Medical Office Business Manager and now a successful Real Estate Professional has given me the opportunities to learn, lead, grow and teach. I enjoy rising to the challenge. And hope to be given the opportunity to do the same for you, the Mazama members and community as a whole.
Martin Hanson
Steve Hooker
John Rettig
member since 1993 Profession: Retired Engineering Manager Mazama Committee Experience: Executive Council 2001–2003 Council Treasurer 2003 Trail Trips Committee 1996–1998, 2012 (chair 1998 and 2012) Financial Affairs Committee 2004–2006 Nominating Committee 2008–2009 Bylaws Committee 2005–2008 (chair 2005–2008) Strategic Planning Committee 1998–2000, 2008–2010 IT–Web Committee 1995–1996 MMC Site Search Committee 2008–2009 Mazama Activity, Volunteer Participation, and Awards: Hardesty Cup, 1995; 16 Major Peaks Award, 2004; BCEP assistant, 1997– 2007; BCEP, 1994; ICS, 1997; MMC Office volunteer, 2012–present; Trail Trips leader, 1995–present (nearly 800 leads); Outing Assistant leader Canadian Rockies, Yosemite, Redwoods Board and/or Committee Experience in Other Organizations (business or nonprofit): Trails Club of Oregon, 1998–00 (hike leader); Multnomah Athletic Club, 2014 (hiking member–coach and the Walking and Hiking Committee) Leadership and/or Professional Skills: Excel proficient Experienced in budgeting and strategic planning; Capable in Project Planning and Project Management; Good knowledge of the club. Goals and Values that you, as an Executive Council Member, would like to champion for Mazamas: Keep and strengthen our traditions. Establish meaningful budgets and meet them. Be transparent in our planning and actions. Stay focused on Northwest climbing. Be open to new ideas while assuring that they meet the purpose and spirit that the club was founded on. Be friendly and kind. Personal Statement: I want the Mazamas to continue to be the premier alpine climbing club in the Northwest. I want us to continue offering reasonably priced classes that teach the skills necessary to participate safely in mountaineering. We need to keep our focus on protecting our environment while maintaining our access to the areas we love. And, we need to be financially solid, giving good value to our members.
member since 2002
member since 1999 Profession: Engineer, Tektronix Mazama Committee Experience: Conservation Committee, 2005–present (chair/co–chair, 2006–present); Governing Documents Committee, 2010–present (chair, 2011–present); Nominating Committee, 2010–13 Mazama Activity, Volunteer Participation, and Awards: BCEP, 1999; BCEP Assistant Instructor, 2002–14 (most years); ICS, 2003– 04; 16 Major Peaks Award, 2012; Parker Cup Award, 2012 Board and/or Committee Experience in Other Organizations (business or non profit): Multnomah County Planning Commissioner, appointed by the Board of County Commisioners, 1998–present; Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs, 2012–present (secretary and Executive Committee); Forest Park Neighborhood Association, 1988–00 (secretary 1992–94, president, 1994–97) Leadership and/or Professional Skills: My diverse board and committee experiences give me a wide range of skills that are well–suited to being a director for the Mazamas. • I am a collaborator known for building consensus on the boards and committees that I have served, but I am also known to take principled stands on important issues when needed. • I have worked in different capacities within multiple Mazama committees for eight years, and I understand our committee structures and the importance of their functions within the Mazamas organization. • I was awarded the Parker cup in 2012 for leading the modernization of our Bylaws. The overwhelming vote of approval by the members of the simplified and legally– accurate Bylaws gave me great pride in our organization and its future. Goals and Values that you, as an Executive Council Member, would like to champion for Mazamas: I will work hard to guide our growth to the highest benefit of the Mazamas and our community while protecting our core values. I will do my best to represent members—they are the heart and soul of our organization and the reason for our existence, and they expect their directors and staff to serve them well, be responsible, follow the rules, allow transparency, and make wise decisions. I will work to keep committees supported and in the forefront, as that is where most of the real work is done. And I will support our remarkable volunteer network that propels our committees and operations and continues to make this all happen.
Profession: Retired CEO & CPA, part-time Financial Consultant Mazama Committee Experience: Financial Affairs Committee, 2010–11; Mazamas Foundation, 2011–14 (president 2013–14) Mazama Activity, Volunteer Participation, and Awards: BCEP, 2002; Patagonia Outing, 2014; Great Smoky Mountains Outing, 2014; Guardian Peaks Award, 2003 Board and/or Committee Experience in Other Organizations (business or nonprofit): National Board Leukemia & Lymphoma Society, $300 million revenue, 2003–12 (chairman 2008–10, treasurer 2011–12) Regence Foundation Board, 2007–09 Leadership and/or Professional Skills: Regence Blue Cross Blue Shield, 1981–2009 (Sr. VP Finance, Chief Financial Officer and Treasurer); CPA, 1979–2013; Extensive Board experience as both an executive and as a board member. Goals and Values that you, as an Executive Council Member, would like to champion for Mazamas: Sustaining and expanding Mazamas reach to attract more people in support of our mission. Expanding Mazamas influence in the outdoor community in general and climbing in particular. Provide responsible financial oversight of current and potential Mazama activities. Personal Statement: I joined Mazamas in 2002 after completing BCEP and fulfilling a lifelong dream to climb the mountains I’d gazed at all my life. Since retiring from full time work as a finance executive and CPA I’ve been able to spend more time on Mazama activities such as the Foundation, hiking and outings to Patagonia and the Great Smoky Mountains. I truly appreciate the opportunities Mazamas has provided me to embrace the outdoors. Our organization is looking at several projects with significant financial implications. In particular: Smith Rock climbing ranch, the Lodge parking lot, IT Systems changes and expansion of our staff. All have some merit and some financial risk. As our Executive Council considers and oversees these projects I’d suggest it is important to have strong financial experience as part of the Council’s makeup. I believe my financial background and passion for Mazamas woud enable me to add value to the Council’s deliberations. I would be honored to serve you on the Executive Council.
Please note: Executive Council Candidate information has been standardized to fit a certain format, however no editing has been done. Other than formatting, the information is provided exactly as submitted by the candidates/members.
continued on next page
Executive Council Candidate Statements, continued from previous page Personal Statement: The Mazamas have been on a positive growth trajectory over the past few years. This isn’t just about our membership or financial numbers, it’s about the quality and scope of our activities and operations, the individual growth derived by our members, the image we project into the community, and the legacy of a 120-year old mountaineering organization that we continue to build upon. A primary challenge is that of addressing this growth and all the changes it will drive – staffing, budgets, activities, classes, operations, outreach, facilities, and more. All this must be managed well, while still retaining the core values that have gotten us this far. Continuing to have people with the needed skills and experience on Executive Council is critical to our success. The Mazamas have opened up a whole new world of outdoor experiences for me. I am appreciative of all the activities I’ve participated in, all that I’ve learned, the friends that I’ve made, and the personal growth that I’ve experienced. I would be eager to give back as a member of Executive Council.
Nominating Committee Candidates Larry Beck Michael Chacon Pam Rechel
18 —Mazama Bulletin
Lodge Gala and Fundraiser Sept. 21, 4 p.m. at Mazama Lodge Free Food | Live Entertainment Join us for a free afternoon picnic dinner and small kick-off fundraiser to learn more about our new investment in the Mazama Lodge, including upcoming projects, new winter parking, and other future improvements.
Lodge News Manager: Charles Barker Caretaker: Amanda Richards 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
Fall lodge hours officially begin in September. The lodge is open from noon on Thursday until Monday at noon. This can be a quiet time to visit the lodge and enjoy mushroom picking. The huckleberries have come early this year and will likely be gone by Labor Day. Learn about future capital projects at Mazama Lodge on Sunday, September 21 at 3 p.m. An early dinner, hosted by the lodge committee, will be served at 4:30 p.m. so you can enjoy a lodge supper and head back to town before dark (or spend the night). Dinner will be grilled chicken and a vegan option of grilled polenta with lentils, with huckleberry ice cream for dessert. This will be a wonderful time to learn about the largest capital project in the lodge’s 54-year history! The lodge is made up of many dedicated volunteers. Ssome volunteers deserve
special recognition—not only for their volunteer efforts, but also for the money they save the organization in speedy repairs. One such member is Jim Van Lente who spends many hours helping around the lodge on an endless list of maintenance projects. He recently responded within 24 hours to the need for a new belt on our fire suppression system. Thank you Jim! Most Mazamas don’t visit the lodge during the summer as it’s really more of a winter lodge for our members. So who does visit the lodge in the summer? It’s visitors from other parts of the country or the world. One such guest was Olympic hopeful Julio Malpica Muniz who is training to make the Mexican winter team in 2016, along with his coach Kaitlyn Fitzpatrick from Canada (photo at right). They stayed with us for a month as Julio skied daily on the Palmer Snow Field. Good luck Julio!
Wim Aarts • Climb Leader Residence: Far SW Portland. Really it’s on the map that way! Hometown: Stein, The Netherlands. When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? I joined in 1998 and started assisting the ski mountaineering committee. What are your favorite climbs/hikes? I really like multi-pitch alpine ice and snow or routes like Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Shuksan that combine route finding, rock, ice, rappelling. Hikes: Who does not love Gorge hikes? What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward to this year: We will meet our European friends to do a backpack in the Glacier Peak wilderness in the North Cascades in September. Climbing had to take a bit of a backseat to a new job I started last September. Best climbing memory: Alpine ice climbing on Grossglockner, the highest peak in the Austrian Alps. We kept reading Reinhold Messner’s entries in the bivy cabin booklet, how he beat our time by a factor of five. I guess he’s looking slow now compared to climbing machines such as Uli Stueck. Future climbing goals? Not too much planned yet. Started attempting Ptarmigan Ridge on Mt. Rainier this year and that could be a multi-year project before we “get” it. Otherwise checking out more North and Central Cascades adventures. Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: I love navigating offtrail. My GPS, and lately my GPS app on the phone, will be checked often to avoid becoming confused. Not that we ever would call it “lost.” Guiding principle/philosophy: Go out, have fun, and be safe. I like to teach, or at least give tips to less experienced participants on my climbs. I will learn something on each climb as the most inexperienced climbers will teach you the most about your limitations.
Favorite leader treat? I have the fortunate circumstance that I’m omnivorous and enjoy a lot of new things. Ritter Sport chocolate still beats them all—not the dark kind though. Most influential book: Freedom of the Hills. Just kidding! Not that I don’t like it, but it’s a bit on the “dry” side. For mountaineering, Joe Simpson’s This Game of Ghosts, and Maria Coffey’s Where the Mountain Casts Its Shadow. Read them and you’ll understand why, as they put things in perspective. I also like books that explore the role colonialism played in creating today’s political problems in Southeast Asia, Africa, and the Middle East. Favorite music/musician: Wow, I will date myself with this one, but I just love to listen to Pink Floyd. Favorite movie: The Matrix trilogy, although the first movie was so much better than what came after that. Favorite restaurant: Tara Thai in NW Portland, the deck in summer is unbeatable. Favorite website: Mazamas.org. Is there any other resource out there? I seriously start so much of my research there. We are lucky to have this site. Words that best describe you: I think I’m pretty much an open book and cannot hide my emotions: If I don’t like what’s happening you will notice, no hiding possible. Most treasured possessions: Very little that I cannot do without—possibly my commuter bike. Pet peeves: Arrogant people. I know what I don’t know and am not afraid to ask the dumbest questions. Person(s) most interested in meeting: I’ve met interesting people where ever I’ve gone; just open your eyes and ears. We host long-range bicyclists and have had the most interesting encounters.
Utah to Arizona—what a country! When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? Either road biking with my spouse or conditioning in the Columbia Gorge. Hobbies other than hiking/climbing: Really not much time besides these two hobbies and road biking. Travel, but it’s been limited by the darn climbing. Occupation: Oh goodie – another engineered Mazama climb leader!
Favorite vacation spot: Likely the best backpack ever was from Southern
September/2014—19
Classic Mazamas 25 years or more of Mazama membership We lead a wide variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. Thank you to all who served on the Task Force! Our last meeting was Aug. 14, and our introductory meeting for the new Classics is Sept. 3. We hope to see you there! If you are interested in leading a Classics event in October, please email kateevans97@ gmail.com by Sept. 12 for inclusion in the Bulletin, listserv, and website. Wednesday, Sept. 3—Classic Mazamas Introductory Meeting, MMC, 6–7:30 p.m. Come have some refreshments, see old friends, meet new ones, and learn how you can be part of the new Classic Mazamas. Are you interested in planning and leading hikes, walks, or social and cultural excursions? Do you want to manage the Classics listserv or help other Classics find transportation to Classics events? Do you want to help manage the committee? Come be involved in our new group. As an enticement to Classics who attend, Dick Miller is giving away a poster of Timberline Lodge. Dick created his incredibly detailed drawing in the 1980s as a fundraiser for Wyeast Lodge to make sure that the furnishings reflected the artisan details of Timberline Lodge. The poster contains humorous and heroic stories of climbers and rescuers, familiy and friends. Come to the meeting and see how many people you can recognize in the poster (see right). If you are unable to come but would like to join the leadership team or have any suggestions, please contact Volunteer Manager Kati Mayfield at kati@mazamas.org or 503-227-2345 or EC liaison Kate Evans at kateevans97@gmail.com or 503-635-6540. Friday, Sept. 12—Lunch at the Lodge, 12:30 p.m. See box below. Saturday, Oct. 4—Lake Oswego Walk, 10 a.m., George Rogers Park This three-mile walk from George Rogers Park to Foothills Park and back will focus on historic places and art in Lake Oswego. Learn how Sucker Creek became Lake Oswego. See the Oregon Iron Company’s first charcoal iron smelter, built in 1867;
Lake Oswego’s first school from the early 1850s; the 1929 home of George Rogers; a 1900 worker’s cottage; and the 1890 Odd Fellows Hall. We will also visit Lee Kelly’s sculpture “Angkor 1” in Millennium Park and Frank Boyden’s “Stafford Stones,” honoring poet William Stafford, in Foothills Park. Bring a lunch; we’ll be eating in Foothills Park. Access George Rogers Park from State and Middlecrest/Wilbur. Go east on Wilbur to Furnace, turn right and continue to George Rogers Park to meet at 10 a.m. Leader Kate Evans, 503-635-6540. Fee: $2 for Mazamas. Wed. Oct. 29—Potluck before the Program, 6 p.m. Enjoy a potluck with other Classics before the 7 p.m. program “Splitboards and Ice Screws: 1 Month Climbing in the Alaska Range.” Details on the website and in the Bulletin. Wed. Nov. 12—Potluck before the Program, 6 p.m. Enjoy a potluck with other Classics before the 7 p.m. program “Day Hiking in the San Juans and Gulf Islands.” Details on the website.
Classic Mazamas Lunch at the Lodge Dick Miller Join us on September 12 for a visit to review what’s happening these days at the Mazama Lodge. Lunch there at 12:30 p.m. is free for Classic Mazamas! You can drive yourself or come to the MMC on Stark Street at 10 a.m. and, for $10, ride in a van or bus with a group of folk. This is a no-hiking, no-bushwhacking, no-camping, no-cooking day trip! We’ll return to the MMC mid afternoon. This will be as much fun as the potluck picnic, but all you need is a smile and a good appetite. Call or email Dyanne Foster at 503.267.8937 or dyfozter@gmail.com by Friday, Sept. 5, to reserve a seat for the ride to Mazama Lodge. If you are driving yourself, please RSVP for lunch to Dyanne by Tuesday, Sept. 9.
20 —Mazama Bulletin
20s & 30s Mazamas As summer winds down, it is a perfect time to take advantage of the beauty right here in our backyard. Check out all these fun trips we have planned and join us in the outdoors!
Friday, August 29 to Monday, September 1—Labor Day Camping Trip: Glacier Peak/ North Cascades This year’s Labor Day camping trip will be to the Glacier Peak area! We will car camp near Darrington, WA and enjoy some epic hikes into the incredibly beautiful North Cascades. We’ll offer a variety of hikes to suit all participants ranging from a stroll along the Sauk River to an extremely steep hike up Mount Pugh gaining 5300 feet of elevation in just over 5 miles. This Labor Day camping trip requires advance signup and there is a maximum of 30 campers. Cost for the trip is $25 for members, $35 for non-members. Darrington is a 4.5 hour drive from Portland, and we will arrange carpools closer to the trip. Advance registration and payment required. Please use our online form to sign up.
The 20s and 30s Mazamas (formely AYM) lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s and, of course, anyone who is “young at heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.
Saturday, September 13—Hamilton Mountain Hike This hike is dog friendly - contact leader to rsvp you and your hound! Waterfalls and vistas await you on this beautiful hike on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge. This hike is a loop, 7.5 miles total, Washington Discovery Pass required. Carpool will leave from Gateway TC at 7:30 a.m. No rsvp is needed UNLESS you plan to bring a dog, in which case please contact the leader, Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org.
Sunday, September 14—Hike: Lookout Mountain (from Hwy 35) Mt. Hood is the tallest peak in the state, and at 6,525 feet (about 500 feet above Timberline Lodge). Lookout Mountain is the next tallest peak in the Mt. Hood National Forest. The summit of Lookout Mountain commands an outstanding view of the east face of Mt. Hood, the volcanoes of Southern Washington and Central Oregon, the Badger Creek wilderness area, the peaks of the Columbia Gorge, parts of the Hood River Valley, and the Columbia River itself. Plan on stopping by Skyway Bar & Grill in Rhododendron on the way back home for a bite and refreshments!
Hike Leader Profile: Colleen Sinsky 20s & 30s Leader Since: 2013 Mazamas Member Since: 2012 Favorite Activity to Lead: weekday evening social events, backpacking trips, short hikes that end with a brewery stop and ladies only events! Mazamas Activities: Critical Incident Debrief Team, AYM Committee, BCEP Assistant, climb participant, assistant climb leader
10.4 miles round-trip, Elevation gain: 2,980 feet. Pace: 2.5. Exploratory. Drive: 136 miles roundtrip. Bring rain gear and lunch. No trailhead pass required. Meet at the southeast corner of Gateway Transit Center. Depart at 8 a.m.. Leader: Adonay Solleiro. Email the leader to sign-up adonayvs@ hotmail.com. Advance sign-up required!
Want to get more involved with 20s & 30s Mazamas? We are looking for Climb Night Hosts and Hike Leader Climb Night Hosts Indoor rock climbing is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. Hike Leaders Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running! Becoming an activity leader takes just few steps—become a Mazamas Member, lead a provisional activity and get First Aid certified.
Please join us for our Fall Tree Planting Event, hosted by the Conservation Committee. When: Oct. 25, 2014 Where: Sandy River Basin/Zigzag Area
I became a Mazama member because: I get to push my limits in a safer environment alongside people who know a lot more than me.
Please sign up by sending an email to conservation@mazamas.org or calling the MMC office at 503-227-2345
I became a leader because: It’s fun to get out with new groups of people, and even though I still have a lot to learn, it’s fun sharing my knowledge with people who are totally new to the area or activity! Leadership Philosophy: I prioritize safety, then fun, then summit. While pushing personal limits and getting to be in beautiful remote places are great, no one should be miserable in doing so! I like for trips to be collaborative, social, and for folks to have the opportunity to learn and share what they know. Favorite Leader Treat: I can’t bake, so I love homebaked goodies, especially salted chocolate chip cookies! Personal Information: I grew up in San Diego, went to school in the Bay Area and landed in Portland for what was supposed to have been just one year volunteering with AmeriCorps. Now I’ve lived here for nearly four years working as an advocate for homeless families and falling more in love with Portland every day! Being
involved with Mazamas was great for learning about the local outdoor opportunities and meeting friends when I was new to town. I like to get out of town every weekend if I can, whether it’s climbing a mountain or just visiting friends in Seattle. During the week you’ll find me climbing at PRG and The Circuit, taking evening Spanish classes, reading, researching future adventures and trying every IPA I can. Colleen will be leaving Portland this month for a long-term global service adventure! We have appreciated all that she has given to 20s and 30s Mazamas as a hike leader and committee member. Thank you, Colleen, and good luck.
September/2014—21
Portland Alpine Fest Nov. 4–8 S CLINICentations Pres S MO
DE GEAR
MP O C E IC air F r o d n Ve
Athletes & Presenters include: JOHN ROSKELLEY Aaron Mulkey John Frieh Libby Sauter Graham Zimmerman
A Word From the MMC by Rick Craycraft, Facilities Manager
Now that we’re entering the busy season at the Mountaineering Center I want to put out a reminder about our food-related events system, now entering its second year. If your committee or school has an event that will involve food in any form—pizza and beer, potluck, formal dinner, snacks for students or committee members— please let the office staff or our facility manager, Rick Craycraft, know ahead of time and you will be supplied with any service items you may need—compostable paper plates, plastic and paper cups, plastic utensils, napkins—and be provided with a system refined to accept all of the above that is possible to recycle or compost. Let’s work together to lower the solid waste profile generated by the MMC.
22 —Mazama Bulletin
Presented by GRIVEL
Welcome New Mazamas! J. Pearce Beissinger—Mt. Rainier Richard Burton—Middle Sister Nicole Clock—Mt. Adams Alessio De Cesare—Mount St. Helens Ann Farris—Avachinsky, Kamchatka, Russia Ellen Gass—Mount St. Helens Christopher Gumke—Mount St. Helens Elijah Hiltebrand—Mount St. Helens Chiyo Horikoshi—Mount St. Helens Stephanie Keske—Mt. Hood Andrew Kahut—Mount St. Helens Jordan Kahut—Mount St. Helens Sandra Kahut—Mount St. Helens Justin Kulish—Mt. Hood
Patrick Mecheski—Kilimanjaro Krista Mugavero—Mt. Hood Nichole Sellon—South Sister Emily Pollard—South Sister Leslie Righett—Mount St. Helens Greg Robillard—Mt. Hood Bryan Roth—Mt. Adams Adrinna Stanley—Mt. Adams Molly Vogt—Mt. Rainier Ron Wiebke—South Sister Evan Weiss—Mt. Shasta Chris Wright—Pangbuk North, Nepal Marc Zemp—Mt St. Helens
Reinstatements Jeff Boggess (2012), David Goode (1979), Scott Mara (2005), Richard Mielke (2006), Nancy Miller (1994), Emily VanMatre (2010)
Deceased
NEW REINSTATED DECEASED
July 31, 2013: 3,320 July 31, 2014: 3,367
Donald M. Kemper, Sr. (1974)
Tech Screw-lock
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50% OFF
PDX Rock Climbs Guide
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24 IN. DYNEMA SLINGS
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X-Static Belay D-Lite Screwgate
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High Mtn. Axe w/leash
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September/2014—23
Programs Begin Next Month Welcome to the Mazama 2014–2015 season of evening programs. Our Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Dave Groudle, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell and Ric Russell.
Discovery and adventure on the Oregon Desert Trail Wednesday, Oct. 8 Oregon’s high desert features red-rock canyons, mountain vistas, cool rivers and plentiful solitude. Shane Von Schlemp completed a new, 800-mile route called the Oregon Desert Trail, which remains a wild, largely undiscovered part of Oregon that winds from Bend through Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, Steens Mountain Wilderness and the Owyhee Canyonlands to near the Idaho border. Read about his journey at: odt2014.wordpress.com/
Roped Solo of Zodiac Route on El Capitan Yosemite Wednesday, Oct. 15 Scott Peterson decided that in the next year he would lose 40 pounds and climb El Capitan. He sat through a snow storm and ran out of water before finishing the climb. Many other highlights will be shared about how he succeeded on his first finished route on El Capitan.
Sea Kayaking in Gwaii Haanas (B.C.) Wednesday, Oct. 22 For two weeks Bob Wilson and Eric Hoem sea kayaked more than 90 miles through the National Park and Marine Reserve known as Gwaii Haanas, a Heritage Site for the Haida people. They explored inlets in search of wildlife; floated narrows and tidal areas to observe marine life; camped at large; walked among ancient carved poles; observed the remains of Haida long houses where once entire families lived; and heard stories of the culture that once flourished.
Splitboards and Ice Screws: One Month Climbing In the Alaska Range Wednesday, Oct. 29 Photos and stories from Chris Benelli and Ryan Irvin’s one month adventure on the Kahiltna Glacier which included 60-degree Alaskan spines, massive glaciers, alpine rock and ice, and a lot of pilot bread. Learn the do’s and don’ts for your first trip to the range and how to train for such a climb in the Cascades.
24 —Mazama Bulletin
SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS *May 30, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Alex Fox. Krista Curtis*, Jason Hodge, Kiska Kosakowski, Sarah Lydecker, Aaron Miller, Jim Miller, Krista Mugavero, Carianne Nieuwstraten, Chris Tinnin *July 1, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Rico Micalleff. Stephanie Buer, Eric Docherty, Kevin Nelson, Kirk Newgard, Jennifer Sutter*, Jennifer Van Houten* July 12, Mt. Baker, Coleman Deming. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Alex Fox. Tyler Vaughn Bax, Dan Codorean*, Amad Doratotaj, Kim Edger*, Crystal Geyer*, Laura Guderyahn, Kathleen Hahn, Rico Micallef, Lynne Pedersen, Greg Ragland July 18, Mt. Buckner, SW Face. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Doug Couch. Jon Bonnet, Tom Dodson, Linda Musil, John Rettig July 18, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: Quentin Carter. Ann Ames, Michael Domeier, Jeffery Gordon, Jean Hillebrand, Rico Micallef
Vaqas Malik’s successful Eldorado climb team on the summit.
July 18, Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Howie Davis. Dave Groudle, Laura Guderyahn, Marty Hinkle, Chris Killmer, Todd Perimon, Shad Williams
July 28, Echo Peak, Spray Park. Leader: Paul Steger, Asst: Joe Ferguson. Aina Cabra-Riart, Sue Dimin, Adonay Solleiro
July 20, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier/N. Ridge. Leader: Lynne Pedersen, Asst: Karen Graves. Thomas Kirk, Andrew Leaf, Jeff Magg
July 29, Fay Peak, Knapsack Pass. Leader: Paul Steger, Asst: Joe Ferguson. Sue Dimin, Adonay Solleiro
July 20, Hibox Mountain, SW Route. Leader: Robert Joy, Asst: Justin Colquhoun. Pushkar Dixit, Brad Magee, Mason Purdy
July 30, First Mother Mt., Knapsack Pass. Leader: Paul Steger, Asst: Joe Ferguson. Adonay Solleiro
July 20, Diamond Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Gary Beck, Asst: Pam Gilmer. Gregg Baker, Dick Bronder, Conner Chamberlin, Karin Masunari, Peggie Schwarz, Patrick Thorpe
Aug. 2, Mt. Larrabee, Southwest Route. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Rigor. Lynn Brown, Pam Gilmer, Greg Graham, Brad Megee, Kristofel Simbajon, Ben Stably, Jennifer Sutter, Ryan Turner
July 26, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Leader: Patrice Cook, Asst: Noelle Price. Brad Hupy, Greg Ragland, David Roche, Karen Vernier July 26, Observation Rock, Flett Glacier. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Burke Stoll. Morgan Harvey, Kristine Lesch, Adrianna Stanley July 27, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Leader: George Cummings, Asst: Kirstin Labudda. Sarah Andrus, Calvin Beneck, Kjersten Criss, Kiera Degener-O’Brien, Alison Elliott, Melissa Guajardo, Austin Schutz, Ben Stabley, James Wende July 27, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Craig Martin, Asst: Greg Scott. Bill Dewsnap, Karen Graves, Heath Harrelson July 28, Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Amy Graham. Seeger Fisher, Mark Fowler, Alex Hult, Eric Kennedy, Kim Osgood, Jolly Righetti
Aug. 9, Dollar Lake Peak, North Ridge. Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Brett Nair. Van Collinsworth, Keith Dubanevich, Greg Graham, Lisa Hemesath, David Stein, Richard Whittington Aug. 9, Columbia Peak, West Ridge. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Doug Couch. Jon Bonnet, Sandee Myers, Jonathan Myers, Mason Purdy Aug. 9, Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm. Leader: Patrice Cook, Asst: Keith Campbell. Amanda Crochet, Brad Hupy, Todd Mauer, Stacey Reding, Rich Schuler, Dawn Van Seggen Aug. 10, Mt. Jefferson, South Side. Leader: Lisa Ripps, Asst: Tim Scott. Matt Bunza, Marty Hinkle, Kevin Nelson, Kim Osgood
Aug. 2, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Leader: Greg Scott, Asst: Tim Scott. Kimberly Edger, Kirstin Labudda, Doug Merritt, Carmen Nale, Chris Rears
Aug. 9, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Leader: Jeffrey Welter, Asst: Tian Lan. Eric Brainich, Jeff Diephuis, Kelly Klephuis, Ron Kravitz, Doug Merritt, Mike Raff
Aug. 3, Church Mountain, Church Mountain trail. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Rigor. Lynn Brown, Pam Gilmer, Greg Graham, Brad Megee, Jennifer Sutter, Ryan Turner
Aug. 10, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Rae Lantsberger. Stephen Baker, Michael Born, Brigitte Englehardt, Loren Guerriero, Emily Masom, Bryan Oates, Ken Park, Sam Zeigler
Aug. 5, Abiel Peak, PCT. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Cecile Beyl, Sherry Bourdin, Kati Mayfield, Larry Murry, Jeanne Shults Aug. 7, Bailey Range Traverse, Traverse. Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Rich Denman. Jean Hillebrand, David McNeil
*denotes previously published climbs that have corrections. Names marked with a asterisk were not previously listed.
Aug. 8, Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys. Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: Quentin Carter. Ann Ames, Zach Cross, Tom Davidson, Mike Domeier
September/2014—25
Go Hiking! Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to members and nonmembers alike. Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike 20s & 30s Mazamas are also hiking: 20s & 30s Mazamas offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/20sand30s Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Jim Selby at 828-508-5094 with any questions. To lead a hike in October, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org. HK B2.5 Sep 01 (Mon) Timothy Lake Loop. Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. A long, level hike around the shoreline of this lake just south of Mt. Hood. Short side trip to Little Crater lake on way. Possible huckleberries and mountain views. 11.2 miles 400 ft. Dr. 148 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK B2 Sep 03 (Wed) Angels Rest VariationsExploratory. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. We will explore some interesting seldom used trails and points of interest on the way to the area west and above Angels Rest. We will travel on the steep Stairway trail, and pass The Throne and Wine Bottle Junction. 7 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 42 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Sep 05 (Fri) Little Badger Creek Trail and School Canyon Trail Hike. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Badger Creek Wilderness exploratory hike. This is a hike in the rain shadow of the Cascades where the moist western Oregon
Gear Demo Program Thanks to a generous donation from Leki, we have just launched a new Gear Demo Program. We have 30 pairs of Leki Corklite trekking poles for you to take for a spin, 20 unisex and 10 women-specific.
Costs: 10 days—$2 members/$5 nonmembers. One month (members only)—$5. Reserve online at mazamas.org/resources/ gear-demo-program/ or just come in to the MMC. Then head for the hills and see what you think of Leki’s lightweight trekking pole. Even better, take a photo of yourself in action and post it to our Facebook page and tag Mazamas and Leki. Grab a pair for your next trail trips hike and always be sure-footed on tricky terrain. 26 —Mazama Bulletin
rainforest meets with the dry eastern Columbia Plateau region. This wilderness features a unique Pine-Oak woodland. This hike will involve a car shuttle. 9.5 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 250 miles TH MMC 7:30 a.m. MU HK A1.5 Sep 06 (Sat) Junction Blue lakes loop. Kent Meyer 360-574-0784. Wilderness—Limit 12. We start at the Thomas Lake trailhead and hike to Junction and Blue Lakes. Part of trail is on an abandoned section of the PCT and part on the present PCT. This will be a slow hike and expect a long day. This is a wilderness area so please call the leader. 8.5 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 148 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Sep 06 (Sat) Wahclella and Elowah Falls. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike visits three beautiful falls along with an overlook. 4.8 miles 900 ft. Dr. 60 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Sep 06 (Sat) Fish Creek Mountain and High Lake. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. The 5,100 ft. high Fish Creek Mountain offers views of the Fish Creek drainage area and Mt. Jefferson. If we have time we will stop by High Lake. 7.2 miles 2,500 ft. Dr. 110 Gateway Park and Ride 8 a.m. HK C2 Sep 06 (Sat) Paradise Park (from Hwy 26). David Nelson 503-657-4058. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will begin at the Paradise Park trailhead, just off Hwy. 26 (near the Kiwanis Camp) and gain 3,100 ft. to reach Paradise Park. We will enjoy the flowers and views at the top, have lunch and then continue on the Paradise loop, before heading back to the cars. Plan for a full day. Contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com to register your spot and discuss meeting location. 16.3 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 100 TH Contact Leader for meeting location 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Sep 07 (Sun) Salmon River Trail (Upper). Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will hike along the Salmon River up to an overlook of the canyon it carved out, where we will stop for lunch. Email leader to reserve a spot (held until 8:20 a.m.). 7.2 miles 950 ft. Dr. 82 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Sep 07 (Sun) Mazama Trail (TH to Timberline). Sojo Hendrix sojo42@gmail.com. During September we are celebrating the Wilderness Act 50th Anniversary. Wilderness—Limit 12. Located in the Mt. Hood Wilderness, the Mazama Trail heads up Cathedral Ridge on Hood’s northwest side. Our annual trail maintenance was just completed in July. Evidence of the 2011 Dollar Lake fire is nearby since the trail served as a crucial fire
Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule. Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. The group leaves REI promptly at 6 p.m. Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time: 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 feet Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark). Group leaves the MMC promptly at 6 p.m. line. At the junction with the Timberline Trail, we’ll decide if we want to explore the meadows below McNeil Point. First come, first serve signup please. 8.4 miles 2250 ft. Dr. 116 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Sep 07 (Sun) Huckleberry Mt. (Boulder Ridge). Kent Ross onebusdog@yahoo.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Email leader to reserve your spot. We start at a foot bridge across the Salmon River and climb past several cliff edge viewpoints. 10.6 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 72 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Sep 08 (Mon) Wahkeena to Devils Rest. We will stop at Wahkeena Springs on the way to Devils Rest, then eat lunch on the bluff. Lovely streams and waterfalls along the way. 7.2 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 44 MMC 8 a.m. HK B2 Sep 10 (Wed) Gnarl Ridge/Elk Meadows Loop. Wilderness—Limit 12. From Sahalie Falls trailhead, cross Newton Creek, up to Elk Meadows. and huckleberries. Up Gnarl Ridge to crest. We’ll stop for photos and flowers on the way. 10.2 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 126 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Sep 12 (Fri) Saddle Mountain. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@gmail.com. A favorite hike in the Coast Range. Great views of the beach and on a good day distant Cascade Range peaks. This is a very enjoyable hike! 7.2 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 96 TH Target/185th 9 a.m. MU HK A2 Sep 13 (Sat) Angora Peak—Exploratory. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. A Manzanita Oregon area Coastal Hike. A local resident and Mazama member will show
Mazama Trail Trips Meetup Group Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVPd for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips now has a number of their hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at http://www.meetup.com/mazama-hiking/
Mount St. Helens Medley with Rex Breunsbach
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory.
Rex Breunsbach, assisted by Dan Smith, had an unusual set of hikes July 19–26. He stayed at Lone Fir Resort at Cougar, Wash., and hikers joined him there for hikes in the Mount St. Helens area. Some stayed overnight while others drove up for the day; since hikes did not start until 10 a.m. they were able to accommodate those who drove up as well as those who stayed. More than 50 hikers participated in the 7 days of hiking, some for just a day and some for several days. Hikes included Lava Canyon, Ape Canyon, Mt. Margaret backcountry, Butte Camp, Toutle River, and Sheep Canyon.
Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU=Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.
Trail Trips Mileage Awards The Trail Trips Committee provides Mileage Awards to Mazama members, leaders and participants, for miles traveled on TTC activities. Awards are presented at The Summit, the culminating event of the Portland Alpine Fest, on Nov. 8. Awards are provided at the following mileage thresholds: 250, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 3,000, 4,000, 5,000, and increments of 5,000 thereafter. Certificates and patches are given for mileage awards, with 1,000 and 5,000 mile awards receiving a plaque. To apply for one of these mileage awards, the hiker must maintain a log of miles travelled on official TTC activities. You can find a copy of this log at mazamas.org/pdf/forms/Trail_Trips_Mileage_Awards_Sheet. pdf and should submit the log to the TTC chairperson by September 30.
us the way to this unique summit. Panoramic views of Pacific Coast and Nehalem River Valley. 8 miles 1200 ft. Dr. 15 Meet at Manzanita News and Expresso On Lenada Ave 9:30 a.m. MU HK B1.5 Sep 13 (Sat) Indian Heaven (Placid-BearWood). Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike from Placid Lake into this wilderness interior to see lakes and meadows. Limited to 12 on first-come basis, no sign-up list. 11 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 165 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Sep 13 (Sat) Yocum Ridge. Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. Exploratory. This is very beautiful and very challenging hike with spectacular alpine meadows and hiking with views of the Sandy Glacier on Mt. Hood. The NW Forest Pass is required. 17.4 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 miles TH Gateway 7 a.m. HK A1 Sep 14 (Sun) Larch Mt. Loop. Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456. Enjoy a forest hike and panoramic mountain views of five volcanoes (weather permitting) from Sherrard Point at 4,055 ft. elevation. After
a break at Sherrard Point it is 2 miles downhill to our starting point. Slower pace. 6.4 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 58 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Sep 14 (Sun) Badger Lake. Sojo Hendrix sojo42@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. The Badger Creek Wilderness on Mt. Hood’s east side is one of my favorite destinations. We will hike up from the Highway 35 trailhead to Gumjuwac saddle, then do a loop hike from the saddle down to the lake for lunch and a swim (weather permitting), then ascend back to the saddle and down to the Highway 35 trailhead. Plan accordingly for a long day. 12 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Sep 15 (Mon) Lava Canyon. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Unique hike near Mount St. Helens. Be prepared to scamper up and down some ladders and walk across a bouncy suspension bridge. 1.3 miles 300 ft. Dr. 144 TH Gateway 8 a.m.
Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass– Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
HK B2 Sep 17 (Wed) Mazama Trail to McNeil Point. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.
continued on next page
September/2014—27
Trail Trips, continued from previous page com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will use our (The Mazama Trail) to reach McNeil point for late season views of Mt. Hood and the other northwest volcanoes. 9 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 116 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Sep 20 (Sat) Ape Caves. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Interesting Geologic formation. Dress warmly, bring two Headlamps and Gloves 3 miles 200 ft. Dr. 144 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK B2 Sep 20 (Sat) Indian Heaven Racetrack. Wayne Lincoln 503-2459193. Wilderness—Limit 12. Easy placed hike with lake and meadow views. We will enter off Road 65 on the west side of Indian Hike trail 111, through meadows and past numerous lakes to Blue Lake and then south on the PCT to the racetrack and finish at the Falls Creek Horse Camp on trail 171. Car shuttle. 9 miles 2,000 ft ft. Dr. 140 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK C2.5 Sep 20 (Sat) Multnomah Falls-Angels Rest-Wahkeena Falls. Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail. com. Enjoy Multnomah, Weisendanger and Ecola Falls. Lunch on Angels Rest, then down the Wahkeena trail for Fairy and Wahkeena Falls before heading back to Mulnomah Falls. Steady pace. 10 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 70 Gateway 8 a.m. TT Sep 20 (Sat) Bell Creek Trail Tender. Richard Pope 503-860-8789. Wilderness—Limit 12. Join us as we collaborate with Trailkeepers of Oregon and the PCTA to finish clearing out this long neglected trail in the Larch Mountain basin. Optional overnight backpacking stay on the trail, must provide all gear and food. We will provide tools and training. Note that leader will not be available to answer calls after Saturday morning. Contact leader for more details 6 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 60 Call leader 8 a.m. HK B1.5 Sep 21 (Sun) Burnt Lake/ East Zig Zag Mtn. Ursula Edlund ursedl123@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. The first miles will pass Douglas fir, hemlock and cedar to our first stop at Burnt Lake. From there we climb steadily to East Zigzag Mtn. for lunch and views. 9.6 miles 2,370 ft. Dr. 96 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Sep 21 (Sun) Paradise Park (from Hwy 26). Adonay Solleiro adonayvs@hotmail.com. Steady pace. Wilderness—Limit 12. Several waterfalls, unique views and excellent workout! Bring a camera for some great pictures. Will stop at Skyway Bar and Grill for refreshments on our way back. 12.7 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK C2 Sep 24 (Wed) Devil’s Peak Lookout (Cool Creek). Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness—Limit 12. An awesome view of the Cascades looking south from this old lookout
28 —Mazama Bulletin
rewards you for a vigorous 3,100 ft elevation gain in 4 miles. Vine maple turning fall red will add to the beauty of this dense forested trail. 8.2 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 84 MMC 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Sep 26 (Fri) University Falls Loop. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@ gmail.com. A great fall hike near the beach! The falls are just gorgeous and provides great scenery. 8.4 miles 2,450 ft. Dr. 50 Target/185th 9 a.m. HK A1.5 Sep 27 (Sat) Triple Falls. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Leisurely hike, briefly in a wilderness area, with four falls: Horsetail, Ponytail, Oneonta, and Triple. Limit is 12; phone leader to reserve a spot. 5 miles 810 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Sep 27 (Sat) Herman Creek to Dry Creek Falls. Marilyn Zigler mszhike@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Herman Creek Bridge trail, Pinnacles and PCT to Dry Creek Falls. Travel through old-growth forest to the towering remains of several crumbling basalt monoliths and a 50 ft., stunning waterfall that pours down a moss-covered basalt amphitheater. 9.0 miles 1,858 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Sep 27 (Sat) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. David Nelson 503-6574058. Wilderness—Limit 12. The trailhead is just off Hwy 35, near the Robin Hood Campground. We will head up the Gumjuwac trail switchbacks until we meet the Divide trail and then head east on the Divide trail to Lookout Mountain. Given good weather, we should have a 5 mountain view in addition to overlooking the Badger Creek Wilderness area. Contact leader at dkbmnelson@gmail.com to register your spot and discuss meeting location. 10.4 miles 2,975 ft. Dr. 136 Contact Leader for Meeting Location 8 a.m. HK B1.5 Sep 28 (Sun) Indian Heaven (Thomas/Bear/Blue). Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Hike from Thomas Lake into fall colors and around numerous lakes. Limited o 12 on first-come basis, no sign-up list. 10 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 148 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Sep 28 (Sun) Cooper Spur (Cloud Cap to Tie-In). Mitch Auerbach 503-505-2160. Wilderness—Limit 12. An outstanding hike! We start at about 5,600 ft. elevation and reach almost 9,000 ft., one of the higher elevation hikes around. Because of the long travel time each way, about two hours, this will be a long hike. Optional dinner stop on the return in Hood River. Since most of the hike is above timberline, please bring at least three liters of water and note the ten essentials recommendations of the Mazamas, to which the leader will closely adhere, i.e., no cotton nor jeans please. 8.8 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 166 TH Gateway 8 a.m.
Adventure Travel OUTINGS—LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2014/2015
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.
What Is Your Outing Wish List? Where would you like to see Mazamas Outings go? Please let the Outings Committee know where you dream of exploring, and we’ll see if we can work on providing that trip. And maybe you’d even like to lead or assist! Send your ideas, suggestions and aspirations to us at mazamas.outings@gmail.com. Thanks!
Exploring Utah’s National Parks Sept. 28–Oct. 12, 2014 Full/Alternates Only. Fifteen day camping and hiking outing to Utah’s Desert parks. Arches, Canyonlands, Natural Bridges, Bryce, Capitol Reef, and Zion National parks. Hiking at A to B level on Slickrock terrain with occasional exposed traversing and easy scrambling. Costs: Estimate $595 to $435 for group of 6 to15 (including leaders). Camping, Mazama fees included. Possible reduced cost depending on campsites used. Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs. Full details in the July Bulletin and online.
Grand Canyon Trek Oct.18–25, 2014—Dates have changed Full/Alternates Only. See information in the July Bulletin.
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.
BEACH HOUSE IN ROCKAWAY. Quiet. Safe. Sleeps 6. Located on the beach side of tracks. $95 night/$570 week. 503-636-0252 HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since
1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
Kilimanjaro—A Route Less Taken Feb. 7–19, 2015 From jungle mists to the glacial cap of Kilimanjaro, learn about and experience the flora and fauna of the many climatic zones of this part of the world as we ascend to the highest summit in Africa. While on the summit, enjoy the 360-degree view of a little known continent and look down to the Olduvai Gorge where our tool-making ancestors evolved. Our ascent to the summit is along the littleclimbed Lemosho and Western Breach route. Less than one percent of summit attempts are made along this route since it includes 4th class climbing. As we trek through the lowlands we will learn about different cultural and social norms of various indigenous ethnic groups. If we choose to spend a night in the crater, we will explore the remaining glaciers and the crater of Kilimanjaro. We begin our African journey in Moshi, often considered the cleanest town in Tanzania, where we will begin to learn the culture and society of local inhabitants as well as our support people. Local diets and new foods can be explored, as well as clothing and dried goods when visiting the local market. Good local hotels will allow us to rest and sleep to overcome our long air journey to Moshi. Following our many days of trekking and climbing we return to Moshi and either head home or extend our time in this part of Africa by joining a safari. Such an optional trip might include Olduvai Gorge, the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater. In-country costs for this unique trip range from $3,800–$4,300 per person depending upon number of participants, while airfare from Portland is currently around $2,500. Airfare can vary widely depending upon routes and accommodations. Leaders: Paul Steger, (503-998-6188, PaulSteger@q.com) and Eric Hoem (503-3413996, erichoem@comcast.net). Deposit $500 due by Sept. 15, 2014.
Hiking Norway’s Western Fjordland July 22–Aug. 2, 2015 This outing takes us to the fjords of western Norway and the dramatic, adjacent mountains of Romsdal. Our base will be the scenic town of Molde where we will stay in an up-scale hostel, which offers private rooms and includes breakfast. We will visit scenic coastal fishing villages and historic farms. Every day will include hiking, some easy and some more challenging. After acclimatization to the active outdoor life that Norwegian’s call “Frilufsliv,” meaning life in the open air, we plan to climb the Klovstein path with views of precipitous Trollstigen highway and hike the more challenging Romsdal Ridge. Finally, we will embark on a threeday, hut-to-hut trek through the heart of the Romsdal Mountains. Land costs include lodging, transportation, heritage farm tour, breakfasts, and two dinners. Not included: transportation to and from Molde, Norway; museum fees; lunches; and dinners other than ones included. Cost: $2,200 to $3,600, depending on number of participants. Deadline for application: Nov. 1, 2014. Required deposit: $500. Contact: Eric Hoem, leader (503-694-6036; erichoem@comcast.net) or Paul Steger, assistant (503-998-6188; paulsteger612@gmail.com).
September/2014—29
Executive Council Minutes (Official minutes pending approval) Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter—President; Sojo Hendrix— Vice-President; Meg Goldberg—Secretary; Terry Donahe—Treasurer, Heather Campbell, Judith Baker, Kate Evans, Joan Zuber, and Lee Davis, Executive Director. Absent: Amy Mendenhall Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:30 p.m. The minutes of the July 8, 2014 meeting were approved. Membership Report: There were 27 applications for membership, 6 reinstatements, 1 deceased with a net change of 32 members. Total membership as of July 31, 2014 was 3,367 showing a net increase of 47 members since July 31, 2013. Treasurer’s Report: Filed for audit. The overall cash position remains solid with over $360,000 in checking and over $310,000 in savings. Mazamas received $2,000 in employee grants and matching gifts. Summer BCEP and the second session of Rock Anchors was booked, netting over $6,500. Council was provided with the 3rd quarter reforecast and draft of the 2014/15 budget. The 2014/15 budget will be finalized and voted on by Council at the September meeting. Executive Director’s Report: Oral Report by Lee Davis. ED Report Topics: • Status of Strategic Plan and grant request to the Mazamas Foundation—a recap of the pre-meeting discussions. • Report on Mazamas 3rd annual trip to the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City, UT. (Seeking donations, sponsorships, advertising and partnership coordination). • Report on Recreation Planning meeting at the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City, UT. with REI. • Reminders for upcoming events, meetings and fundraisers through the fall and specifically for our end of fiscal year events: • Aug. 20: Nepal Fundraiser • Sept. 9: Sept. EC meeting / Budget approval • Sept. 15: Committee Chair Orientation • Sept. 17-18: Reel Rock at Hollywood • Sept. 21: Lodge Gala at Mazama Lodge • Sept. 22: Committee annual meeting reminders • Sept. 26: Youth outreach information night • Sept. 27-28: Wilderness Act Celebration • Sept. 29: Annual reports from all Committees due (need Council Liaison help to collect) 30 —Mazama Bulletin
August 12, 2014
• Oct. 6: Volunteer Picnic/Annual meeting/Officer election/Oct. EC meeting • Oct. 17–19: Board retreat at Mt. Adams Lodge • November 4–8: Portland Alpine Festival and Ice Climbing Competition • Status of Beacon Film and Ice Wall Projects Decisions Requested by Executive Director this month: Lee is requesting that EC authorize him to finalize the three year grant request of Mazamas Foundation to fund our strategic plan projects. The overall value of the request is currently $215,000/ year for three years. Motion by Judith Baker to give Lee the authority to go to the Foundation. Motion amended to read that the entire amount of the Weinstein Estate Gift will transfer to the Mazamas Foundation on September 30, 2014 and the Foundation will give to the Mazamas $215,00 on October 1, 2014. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Lee is requesting that EC grant him the authority to draft and sign (with Terry Donahe) a simultaneous agreement with the Mazamas Foundation that within this three year period all Estate Gifts received over $25,000 in value will be gifted to the Mazamas Foundation to benefit their permanent fund. Sojo Hendrix so moves that any estate gifts over $10,000 would go the Foundation. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.
• Research • Governing Documents No report submitted: • CISM • Library • Nominating Committee Sojo Hendrix moved to accept the consent agenda. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Regular Committee Reports Governing Documents: John Rettig presented the updated Inclement Weather Policy. Terry Donahe moves to approve the policy. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Portland Alpine Festival: Tim Scott reported that the planning and implementation of the PAF is moving along. The initial budget is completed, athletes are lined up, venue selection is completed, Task Checklist and Calendar of Deadlines is being completed, and sponsorships are being firmed up. New Business: Mazama Volunteer Code of Ethics and Conduct: Kati Mayfield is requesting approval by Council of the Mazama Volunteer Code of Ethics and Conduct. Under Volunteerism supervisor will be changed to read supervisor/program coordinator, and the line to check off each of the categories as read will be removed with one signature line at the end. Sojo Hendrix moves to accept Mazama Volunteer Code of Ethics and Conduct. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved. Meeting adjourned at 8:30 p.m. Council went into Executive Session Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday, Sept. 9, 2014 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.
Consent Agenda Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Education • Families (Council did not act on Families Desired Council Action that Council support the “Oregon Tradeswomen, Inc.’s 7-week committee training program provided me with by improving everything I needed to start my new investments career: from hands-on training, career in equipment counseling, and assistance applying for and leadership my apprenticeship.” development Tia Vonil, Electrician Apprentice since the request was OTI offers classes for women throughout the year to prepare them for high-wage careers not specific to in the skilled construction trades. take action. • Lodge Contact us for more information and to get started: • Programs 503.335.8200 x 21 | www.tradeswomen.net • Publications
Mazama Annual Meeting & Volunteer Appreciation Dinner October 6; 5 p.m. at the MMC Council hosts this dinner, catered by Charles Barker of the Mazama Lodge, to honor our volunteers for all they have done this year. We strongly encourage committee chairs to attend the dinner and annual meeting to give your annual reports and brag about what your committee has accomplished. Date: Monday, Oct. 6. Dinner begins at 5 p.m. at the MMC. Meeting begins at 7 p.m. Please RSVP for the dinner to dyfozter@ gmail.com. Agenda: Results of the voting for Executive Council and bylaws amendments. Annual reports: president, treasurer, secretary, interim executive director, foundation, committees. Regular October Executive Council meeting to follow, in lieu of Oct. 14.
Membership Benefits NEW! Trailbutter (trailbutter.com) 20%. Go to the member section of the Mazama website for code. Also available at the MMC. Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals
VOTE! Your vote counts. Please take the time to read through the Executive Council Candidate information on page 16 to make an informed decision in the Annual Election. All current members will receive a membership renewal packet, which includes the Executive Council Information, ballot, membership renewal information, membership sticker, and return envelope, no later than September 5. If you haven’t received it by that date, please contact the office at adventure@mazamas.org. Ballots must be in the office by Oct. 6 at noon.
Mountaineers Books Save 20%. Get the code on the Mazama website in the members section. Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% non-sale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items
PAKISTAN: BHUTAN:
Silk Road to Hunza - Sept. 2015
Lingshi/Laya Gentle Trek - Oct. 2015
BOTSWANA: UGANDA:
Classic Tented Safari - Sept. 2016
Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, Ore.) 10% Rock and Ice Magazine Annual subscription 40% off. Go to Mazama website for code. U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%
Gorilla Tracking - Oct. 2016
FOLKWAYS INSTITUTE
Socially Responsible, Tailor-Made, International Journeys for Travelers Since 1982
Folkways.Institute@gmail.com September/2014—31
Save the Date! The second annual Portland Alpine Fest will be Nov. 4–8, 2014. The week will include clinics, presentations, slideshows, an ice comp, vendor fair, awards and much more. Presenters include: John Roskelley John Frieh Aaron Mulkey Libby Sauter Graham Zimmerman Look for detailed information at portlandalpinefest.org
Presented by: