mazama
bulletin The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.
nesika klatawa sahale—we climb high
September 2013 • Vol. 95 • No. 9
climb. hike. explore.
A Mazama team ascending Jefferson Park Glacier (Mt. Jefferson, Ore.) and skirting Mohler Rock just below the second bergschrund. Photo: Victor Galotti.
Upcoming Events and Classes Alpine Photography Class Sept. 4 & 21.
Hiking Northeast Oregon with William L. Sullivan Sept. 12; 5–7:30 p.m. at the MMC.
Alpine Climbing Programming & Practical Application Class
Application deadline Sept. 13. Learn more on page 8.
Reel Rock
Sep. 19 and 20 at the Bagdad Theater.
Lodge Work Party Sep. 20–22.
Chasing Ice Presentation & Panel Discussion Oct. 4; 7 p.m. at the MMC.
Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend
In this Issue Features p. 6 Featured Peak: Lemah Mountain p. 7 Protect Your Gear p. 8 Alpine Climbing Programming & Practical Application Class p. 12 Mazamas Have Been Chasing Ice For Over 116 Years p. 16 Mt. Jefferson—Jeff Park Glacier Success! p. 24 Kids Go Climbing p. 23 Grant Expands Access to Beacon Rock p. 28 Mazama Election Info Monthly Columns p. 4 Volunteer Opportunities p. 10 AYM Activities p. 10 Membership Report p. 11 Lodge News & Notes p. 14 Successful Climbers p. 15 Upcoming Climbs p. 18 Outings p. 21 Time Warp P. 22 Meet Your Climb Leaders—John Meckel p. 26 Trail Trips p. 31 Executive Council Notes
Oct. 4–6
Annual Meeting Oct. 7 at the MMC.
Craggin’ Classic
Oct. 12–13 at Smith Rock.
Discovery Night
Oct. 14 at the MMC. Come out and learn about all the Mazamas has to offer.
Portland Alpine Festival Nov. 11–16
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Save the Date! Bagdad Theater September 19 and 20
Alicia Imbody on the summit of Middle Sister, July 27. She and partner Jonathon Skeen finished BCEP this spring with Matt Carteras leader and together have climbed seven peaks since. Photo: Jeff Hawkins
Executive Director’s Report A Joint Venture Dear Members, I’ve been having an amazing summer in the mountains and from what I’ve heard through the grapevine so have you! I just got back from leading a Mazama outing to Chamonix, France where we hiked and climbed and even went paragliding through the French Alps for more than two weeks. As you’re reading this, most people will be wrapping up their summer vacations, digging back into school and work and preparing for fall. At Mazamas we’re doing the same things. We still have lots of climbs and outings heading out, ICS and several other classes are gearing up, and in the office we’re getting ready for our fall events and the end of our fiscal year. In just a week, you will be receiving your Mazama Membership Renewal Form along with your ballot to vote in the annual election on October 7. As you know we’ve been actively expanding our programs and services, and as a result our membership has grown to nearly 3,400! The numbers last year alone were staggering: With more than 90,000 hours of volunteer support we created more than 20,000 people-days of organized activities in the mountains. In addition to this we added several pro-athlete clinics, skill builder classes, minicourses, youth and family climbing programs and have developed partnerships with Northwest Youth Corps, Focus the Nation, Northwest Outward Bound School, Friends of Outdoor School, the Access Fund, Outdoor Alliance and the Wilderness Society. This year we’re also excited to announce that we’ve added a new member benefit. We’ve arranged for our members to add a joint membership with the American Alpine Club for just $40/year or $25/year for spouses, partners or children. Membership with the American Alpine Club (AAC) is typically $75/year so this represents more than a 45 percent discount! All of their standard benefits are included with no exception, including additional rescue insurance, access to their magazine and vendor discounts and two great print publications: the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering. The value of these two books alone is over $40 and the additional rescue insurance is a great deal for active members. So, while you might choose this AAC add-on membership just because it’s a great deal, there’s something bigger here I’d like to share with you: One of the reasons we’ve been pursuing partnerships with national organizations (like the American Alpine Club) is to increase the power of our members’ voices on a national level. As you know, our public lands are managed diligently by federal and state agencies that are continually having funding difficulties. These funding shortfalls, combined with complex legal requirements and increased usage, create
maintenance and operations problems for the land managers which they simply can’t solve alone. Over time the result of this scenario is a series of small actions, like permit structures, closures and privatization of public lands which limit access to our favorite places. Each year issues on public lands arise which grab our attention and bring forth passionate responses from our members. We get calls every week asking about road closures, conservation issues, permits, timber sales, and development and agency projects. These calls and e-mails are based in our members’ interests and values around conservation, recreation, ethics and culture. As an example, the US Forest Service has determined that they are no longer able to maintain many of their roads and campsites. Recently, as part of the Travel Management Rule (36 CFR 212), the federal government has directed the USFS to identify the “minimum roads” needed to “meet resource and other management objectives ...” The response to this directive could easily lead to the closure of roads which provide public access to many of our favorite places for recreation. As mountaineers, climbers, hikers and skiers, as Mazamas, it’s critical that we voice our concerns and tell the land managers which roads are most important to us and should not be closed or removed. The Mazamas have a responsibility to represent your concerns, and by partnering with these national organizations we become better able to make your voice heard locally and in Washington D.C. Staying on-mission and doing what we do uniquely best will always be the true path to success for Mazamas. As I said in July, I firmly believe that what we do best here is creating shared growth experiences in the mountains. Furthermore, the motivation for conservation is rooted in these deep personal experiences in the outdoors. Without having these experiences our populace may start to question the relevance and importance of our public wild lands. For all of these reasons, we need your support. In order to continue growing our programs and services and doing a better job of representing your interests, we need YOU to renew your membership and stay engaged with the Mazamas. On behalf of all Mazamas I thank you in advance for keeping the Mazamas strong.
Lee Davis
Contact Us Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m. Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services and Operations Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Max Rupert—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)
Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription price $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 70 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
September 2013—3
Alpine Photography Skill Builder
Do you want to improve the quality of the pictures you take while on a Mazama trip? Interested in taking off the training wheels and opening up the semi-automatic and manual modes on your camera? This skill builder will give you the tools to use your camera more often and more efficiently, with a mountain-centered focus. Topics will include: camera gear management, lens selection/philosophy, lowlight photography, strategies for optimal settings, composition techniques, random tips and tricks, raw workflow, and post processing using Adobe Lightroom. Lecture: Wed., Sept. 4 Field Session: Sat., Sept. 21 Cost: $41 members/$52 non-members. For more information visit the Skill Builder page at www.mazamas.org, or email skillbuilder@mazamas.org.
First Aid Classes Starting Soon
Classes in CPR and Mountaineering First Aid are taught twice a year by Mazamas, in Oct.–Nov. and Jan.–Feb. While Mazama members and non-members are welcome to apply for these courses, class size is limited. Unlike other Mazama classes, our First Aid classes may NOT be audited for free. You can register for ALL Mazamas First Aid classes using the Mazamas 2013-14 First Aid Class Application Form, available at http://bit.ly/MFAregistration. You will not be charged for Mazamas First Aid classes unless you are accepted in the class. For more detailed information on Mazamas First Aid classes including class fees, schedules, and recertification, visit http://bit.ly/mazama-first-aid or email questions to mazama.firstaid@mazamas.org.
Mazama Volunteerism Survey
Hey Mazamas! Enter for your chance to win great prizes from Climb Max and Columbia Sportswear! We want to learn more about the way you interact with our organization as a volunteer. What volunteer activities are you involved with or have you done in the past? How would you like to be involved? What great skills do you have that we should know about? Take this 10-question survey and you’ll be entered to win. Good luck! Survey Link: tinyurl.com/mazamavolunteersurvey
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Volunteer Opportunities by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org
Saturday, Sept. 21—Mazama Lodge Work Party The semi-annual WorkDay at Mazama Lodge is Saturday, Sept. 21; 9 a.m.–3 p.m. For those who want to come up Friday, dinner, overnight accommodations as well as and breakfast and lunch on Saturday will be provided. This is a great way to spend a day at beautiful Mazama Lodge and keep the place in shape. Contact Bob Stayton, rstayton@ comcast.net, for more information or to RSVP. Monday, Oct. 7—Vote Counting Volunteers On the date of the Annual Meeting, the Mazama Nominating Committee needs help counting votes for our new Executive Council members. Vote counters will meet at the MMC at 2 p.m. and it will take 3-4 hours to tally the votes. Contact the Mazama Office if you are available to volunteer, 503-227-2345. Flexible—Oral History Transcribers Part of preserving Mazama history is collecting oral histories from our long-time members. Our esteemed Museum Curator, Vera Dafoe, has great stories to tell about her 55 years of Mazama membership. These stories are currently recorded on tapes and need to be transcribed for the archives. If you have confident typing skills and would be interested in this project please contact Doug Couch, dougnlis@teleport.com. Ongoing—Membership Processing Volunteers It’s that time of year again … Mazama members are renewing their memberships which means lots of work in the office! If you have a few hours of time on weekdays in September/October, we could use your help processing dues payments, updating the member database and tracking donations. Please contact Jamie Anderson, Membership Manager, jamie@mazamas.org if you’re interested.
Ongoing—Outreach Volunteers The Outreach Committee is looking for volunteers to join their team. This committee is responsible for representing the Mazamas at community events and hosts the annual Discovery Night event at the MMC in October. The Outreach team needs people to help plan that event, and to join the committee. Contact Elizabeth Cole, Chair, at outreach@mazamas.org. Ongoing—BCEP Committee Volunteers You know that you took BCEP and would love to help run the 2014 course—oh yeah! The BCEP Committee is looking for new members; contact Andrew Bodien if you’re interested in getting involved, andrew@bodien.org. Ongoing—Office Volunteers Help out the MMC as an Office Volunteer. Answer questions, greet visitors and enjoy the camaraderie of other Mazamas members. This is a great position for people who want to meet more Mazamas, are detailoriented and are also good multitaskers. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, if interested. Ongoing—Financial Affairs Committee Help Mazama classes and committees understand their money. If you have managed a budget before, join this committee to help prepare our quarterly reforecasts and annual budget and advice Executive Council on financial and accounting procedures or decisions. Contact Chris Simmons, Chair, at casimmons1@gmail.com. Ongoing—Volunteer Photographers: Help parks in Washington monitor glacier activity! PCC Professor Frank Granshaw is training climbers to do panoramic photography and data gathering to begin modeling the activity of Washington’s Blue, Nisqually and Emmons glaciers. Contact Frank at fgransha@pcc.edu.
Mazama Discovery Night Monday, Oct. 14, 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC
Come join us at Discovery Night! This is a bright and bold celebration of what it means to be a Mazama. Discovery Night is a great opportunity for new and potential members to come and learn about the Mazamas. Come find out about our fun activities, circulate and visit with our experienced members and learn about the different committees that make us work. A great time for current members to come and connect with friends, share experiences and enjoy the camaraderie. Feel free to bring a friend or two!
Publications Committee Asks You to Think Ahead for Next Year’s Annual The Publications Committee is already in the planning stage for the 2013 Annual. We would love to hear about your adventures this winter, spring, summer and fall, especially any climbingrelated stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas. We will help you edit any submissions you make. Please submit materials to mazama.annual@mazamas.org We’d also like to encourage you to submit high-resolution photos of climbing, hiking or backpacking, even if they are not attached to an article. We would like to print a number of stand-alone photos from members in upcoming Annuals and we especially need vertically-oriented (portrait mode) pictures. Photos must be 300 dpi. Please give your photographs a descriptive file name and submit with a photo caption and credit. You can submit your photos to the email address above. Deadlines: • All reports are due Oct. 15 (commitee, outings (except fall), administrative) • Feature articles are due Nov. 15 • Photos are due Nov. 15 • Climbs and hikes (spreadsheets) are due by Dec. 15 Many thanks—Mazama Publications Committee.
Discovery and Challenge Mazamas members receive $100 off any 5-10 day course, $200 off any course longer than 10 days. Call Northwest Outward Bound at 828.239.2359 www.nwobs.org Photo: Joel Reid
September 2013—5
Featured Peak: Lemah Mountain, 7,512 ft. by Barry Maletzky
Because it’s the cover child for the third edition of the Spring/Manning 100 Hikes in Washington’s Alpine Lakes, one would think that Lemah Mountain would attract more attention. Although the neighboring Chimney Rock is taller and a more challenging climb, Lemah is both more picturesque, with its five fingers (“Lemah” is Chinook for “hand”), and affords easier access.
Part of the Chikamin Group of rocky peaks northeast of Snoqualmie Pass, Lemah and its friends include Chikamin Peak and Three Queens, as well as Summit Chief Mountain. This group extends southwest to the more familiar Snoqualmie Pass peaks, such as Guye Peak and The Tooth but also north to the more snow-bound summits of Mts. Daniel and Hinman. Access is eased by a shorter drive from Portland than the snowy giants further north, but also by a straightforward hiking approach to base via the Cooper Lake road (spectacular views from the lakeshore) and the 4 ½ -mile level Cooper River (Pete’s Lake) Trail to this forest-bound lake. Continuing on this trail another mile brings the climber to a junction with the Lemah Meadows Trail (#1323B) while another 0.8 fairly untroubled mile on that path leads to the junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Just beyond, on your right, Lemah Meadows and camping await. Unfortunately, for much of the climbing season these grasslands are more bog than bivouac, more swamp than shelter. They may be dry by mid-August or they may not. Find the rare patches of hillock to settle your tent or try to eke out a spot beneath the trees as you enter the opening. There are two compensations here: The magnificent view of Lemah’s five jagged digits to the northwest (see photo) and the delicious fragrance of the
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Lemah Peak at sunrise. Photo: Bob Breivogel.
rare Bog Orchid, its white flowers arrayed along its 2-ft.-tall spike. The actual climb begins from camp early the next morning. It involves scrambling up flower-filled meadows and across delightful granite boulders to the head of the Lemah Creek Valley, where steeper grades await. Some nontechnical use of hands here and there on patches of sturdy grass and partly-trustable stacks of breccia, a familiar task for Cascades climbers, brings one to the first climbing objective, a usually snow-filled gully. This chute then leads to the glacial patch beneath the main peak (Lemah 3) and Lemah 2 to its left. (Please feel free to ignore the description in Becky’s Volume One; it is as condensed as it is confusing. Smoot’s Climbing Washington’s Mountains is less misleading.) The conditions within this gully may determine how eager you are to attack it. Usually snow-filled through July, in parched summers it may be bare, leading to a class 3 scramble on loose boulders; or it might even be filled with unstable ice by late July through mid-August. A belay here and there might be appreciated by all but the most skilled (or egotistic?) of climbers. Above this gully, access to the upper glacier can be readily gained; while it is relatively free of crevasses, most parties rope here. The aim is to obtain the notch between Lemah 2 and 3, the main summit, by remaining on the eastern aspect of the slope. The snow generally ends about 500 ft. short of the col but a broad basin often filled with wildflowers in summer is a reward. Nonetheless, another snowfield, then a class 3-4 gully must be tackled to gain the saddle and the ridge. From this notch, magnificent views open to the north and west, but the best is yet to come. Scramble along the exposed but comfortable northwest ridgetop, favoring the southeast side if necessary, to attain a class 4 step up broken rock to the surprisingly broad summit. Views abound: the precipitous ramparts of nearby Chimney Rock, the towering pinnacle of Mt. Stuart and the snow-clad Mts. Daniel
and Hinman to the north; the sharp pinnacles of the Snoqualmie Peaks troop, including Mts. Thomson and Huckleberry, to the south; the behemoth, Mt. Rainier, looming in the southwest background; Glacier Peak to the northwest; and the sere plains of eastern Washington. Forget for a while the possible perils of the descent as you luxuriate in the high air and hopefully, the east-of-crest sunshine. Relax in the knowledge that many parties wisely choose to rappel or top-belay either or both gullies on the descent. It would also be heartening to know you have an extra day in camp, if you’ve judiciously taken that Friday or Monday off. Soaking your feet in chilly Lemah Creek and lounging around in base camp are just rewards after this diverse ascent. The trek out with full pack is not that steep a descent, so for us elderly climbers it’s more back-breaking than knee-jarring. When you reach the vehicles, don’t rush off without taking another look back over Cooper Lake to the spectacle of Lemah and Chimney Rock towering above the blue-green waters. Also, do not fail to make your first pit stop in the historic village of Roslyn, a brew and burger at the corner tavern. You can sneer at the tourists (Roslyn, and its corner tavern, was where the oddly charming Northern Exposure TV show was filmed) and marvel at the Nineteenth-Century architecture of the downtown buildings. A mere 4 ½- to 5-hour drive to the trailhead (well, not as bad as Baker or Shuksan), with a relatively benign pack-in, a spectacular, if moist, campsite, varied rock-and-snow climbing, breathtaking and expansive views, and few technical difficulties, Lemah should be on every Northwest climber’s agenda. Sure, you won’t get an award for its ascent at the Annual Celebration, but you’ll know in your heart and mind the beauties that this oft-neglected north-of-Snoqualmie-Pass area has to offer. And, you’ll enjoy the bonus of refreshment at a famous and historic tavern to boot!
Protect Your Gear By Jess Beauchemin
I was recently the unfortunate victim of theft in the REI Portland parking garage. This is my story. The story began in April, as always, on the day the Mazama climb schedule came out. I eagerly flipped through the pages of the Bulletin, looking for the most exciting and challenging climbs I could fit in to my schedule. I had a few criteria: a familiar team leader, a limited total number of climbers, and some out of the way destination or unusual link-up. This climb stood out, since it had all three: a combo of Forbidden’s west ridge and El Dorado’s classic snow route. I would climb with the man, the legend—Gary Ballou. I would climb in a small group of six, and I would be heading up to a mountain that struck me down with bad weather, twice, just a few years ago. I anticipated that this was going to be a great trip. All summer, I worked on building my new business, which left me with little time to go out and train. There’s no great rock gym in Corvallis (my new home) and having left my network of climbing and hiking pals in Portland, I had fewer opportunities to climb outside. I hoped that a combination of determination and adrenaline would get me through a tough five-day climb. This would be my first real climb of the summer. The week before, I began preparing. I’d tested out a brand new climbing pack on a shorter hike. I started making and dehydrating meals I could bring back to life at camp. I began laying out the wide array of equipment I’d need for this trek—snow gear; a rock rack, harness and rock shoes; clothes; food and camping gear all got stuffed neatly in my new pack. The morning before leaving to meet my carpool, I threw a few creature comforts in my car for the first night of camping, and drove up to Portland. I made a quick stop at REI just a couple hours before meeting my carpool to grab some last minute items. When I got back to the car, I immediately knew something was wrong. My door was unlocked, which was weird, and I looked over into the passenger seat. My bag of snacks and clothes was gone. Quickly, I looked into the back, and my multi-day pack, tent, sleeping bag and small day-pack were gone. Slamming the car door, I ran to the passenger side and noticed the lock was neatly punched out. Metal bits were strewn across the garage floor. This was no amateur’s work. Someone
had this strategy mapped out long before and I was clearly not the first victim of crime in this garage. I blasted down the stairwell and into REI, looking around frantically for an employee who wasn’t busy. As I marched down the aisle, a man in a black T-shirt asked if I needed any help. He said he worked there, and he was heading home. He kindly brought me to the front of the store and tried to summon a manager or other help. This felt like it took forever. In the meantime I got on the phone with the police and, choking back tears, tried to get some help. The police phone operator could not send an officer down to talk to me, so she had someone call me back to take down my report. Waiting for that phone call took some time, so I waited up front at REI for a bit and talked to a manager. She expressed she was sorry, and that theft has been happening in the garage, but that there were no cameras or security provided by the store. I was left feeling distraught, frustrated, and helpless at that moment. REI also didn’t direct me to their loss prevention staff member, who I later found out was working at that time, and was left to return alone to my car with no support or follow-up from REI staff. With no time left to get replacement gear I frantically called Tim Scott, who took over as climb leader since Gary needed to spend time getting ready for ICS. Tim ended up calling off the climb for the whole team because they were counting on me to lead the West Ridge. I wanted nothing more than to be on this climb and now the fact that my misfortune had cancelled the trip for the whole team made me feel even worse. In summary, I lost the financial investment I’d made in my gear, the time spent in making and drying homemade meals, and the chance to make new memories on a long-awaited climb. I lost the #1 Camalot that held my first lead fall, the beat up, old green RidgeRest that has been on hundreds of trips with me, and the ice ax I had since Monty Smith watched over me in BCEP. “At least your insurance will cover it,” many people said, in an effort to console me after this event. Yes, I thought, I’d purchased renter’s insurance several years ago after reading other people’s stories of car break-ins and theft. I told my agent when I took the insurance out that I wanted to protect my belongings left in the car when out hiking, climbing, and traveling and I have to leave
things behind unguarded. I was dismayed to learn that, according to my policy, if my property is stolen from any location outside of my home, it is only insured for 10 percent of the total amount of my coverage. Minus my deductible, the payout from my insurance company payout will be only a fraction of the $4,000 plus dollars worth of equipment that was stolen and $900 dollars in damage that was done to my car. My lifeline, my insurance, ended up being far from adequate. This was the final straw. I had to get my story out to help other people take notice and be savvy enough to protect themselves properly. With the help of some generous friends, climbing partners, and strangers, my story began to spread. I can’t change what’s happened to me, but I hope I can generate conversation and curiosity among fellow climbers who may be more aware of the risks they take in the mountains than the risks they take at home. Know what your insurance covers, and if you find it’s inadequate, talk with an agent you can trust to get you the coverage you need. One uplifting point in this unfortunate event is the amazing generosity of the outdoors community. Within hours of getting the word out that my gear was stolen, people from all parts of my life were reaching out to me asking how they could help. I received numerous offers to lend gear, donate gear, lend money, or donate money. Everyone rallied for me. It was, and continues to be, unexpected and remarkable. I am deeply humbled by the number of people expressing concern, empathy and anger right along with me. So many amazing people have pitched in to help get me climbing again. This experience has shown me the strong bonds within the climbing community and the willingness of individuals to support a fellow human who simply shares the passion for climbing. Above: The author out in her element enjoying the mountains.
September 2013—7
Alpine Climbing Programming and Practical Application Class by Brad Farra
When Lee Davis asked me to come and talk with John Frieh about a training for climbing class that he wanted John to teach for the Mazamas, my first thought was “who is John Frieh.” I’m terrible with the who’s who of climbing and John has certainly established himself as a climber that deserves some recognition within the climbing community. John has had a significant first ascent or first winter ascent in Alaska every year since 2009. He received the prestigious Mugs Stump award in 2011, 2012 and 2013, as well as the Copp Dash Inspire Award in 2011 and 2013. John is also a Gym Jones certified instructor. Gym Jones is a training facility in Salt Lake City started by Mark Twight, one of the most accomplished climbers ever. The Gym Jones philosophy encompasses outcome based training, functional training, nutrition, recovery, and possibly the most important tenant in all sports–“the mind is primary.” My first experience in realizing how important the mental muscle is in physical training and ‘sport’ was in US Navy rescue swimmer school. I was being asked to do things that I had never done before. I was pushed beyond my comfort level, into new territory. I came to an understanding that my mind would stop me long before my body truly ‘needed’ to stop. Since then I feel like I have been able to push myself in training, and in climbing, further than I otherwise would have. I frequently and voluntarily push myself far beyond the limits my mind manufactures. It was easy for me to get on board with John’s training approach and philosophy in training the mind first and throughout. Training the mind is an often overlooked aspect in the total development of an athlete. Mental toughness might be just as important as fitness and specific climbing skills when it comes to achieving a difficult objective. John jokes that my role in assisting with this class is to make sure he doesn’t kill anyone. “There is no glory in the gym,” is what John has said to the class. It’s true, and his knowledge of how to keep people from getting injured in training is superb. One of the primary roles of any strength and conditioning
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program is to reduce the chance of injury. That being said, climbing is a risky activity. There must be at least some risk in training for such an activity, minimizing that risk in training is important. This class teaches functional movements that are directly applicable to your climbing goals. The technique of these movements and lifts is paramount. As a chiropractic sports physician and strength and conditioning specialist, I help correct the finer points of these movements. Poor technique and execution can lead to injury. This class provides an excellent opportunity for the student to have knowledgeable instructors help them fine tune difficult lifts and functional movements. You might be asking yourself, what is functional training? Functional training is training that has a high degree of transferability to your sport or activity. Regardless of your goal, this class teaches you how to develop and execute a training program that will lead to success. Your goal could be to climb a big wall in Yosemite or to climb Denali, obviously very different skills are needed for these two objectives. Different ‘tools’ are used to prepare the body for these different objectives. Is this class CrossFit? NO. Functional training was around long before CrossFit. CrossFit is simply a brand. The physical and mental nature of training is not all that should be considered if you want to be thorough in preparing to meet an objective. This class covers nutrition, both daily and climbing nutrition. Recovery is also an important topic. Good recovery practices can help you make bigger gains in less time and stay uninjured.
Climbing light and fast is a topic that is hammered home throughout the course. The recommended text for the course is Mark Twight’s book Extreme Alpinism. We are looking for serious applicants for this course. We want students that are willing to commit to the class and the process of improving. We want to surround ourselves with likeminded individuals who will increase the general awareness that fitness, physical and mental, is fundamental to success in climbing. We want the graduates from this course to inspire all of us to a higher level of fitness and climbing. A few words from graduates of this class: “The class was well-worth the investment.” “... rigorous self-analysis as well as improved strength and endurance has helped me become a fast-ER and light-ER climber.” “... with increased confidence, I’ve already improved a great deal.” John is a great coach with many insights to share, as well as a fair task master in the gym. Brad helped to ensure I stayed injury free, healthy, ... I incorporate the curriculum from the alpine fitness class into every day of my life through my routine of diet,
training, and recovery. In addition I have changed what I carry and consume on a climb which has translated into higher success in the alpine.” “The benefits I received from taking this class are priceless.” “Suddenly all these routes I never thought I’d be able to do at all ever, I’m doing, and they are easy for me!” “I never realized how much fitness knowledge makes a difference in how well you climb ...”
“While taking the class and immediately following the class, I ran my best 5K times in 2 different races, beating my time by 1 minute per mile.” “Brad and John are some of the finest climbers in the NW and yet they shared their knowledge so openly and supported all of the students without ego.” “My hip flexor or glute ache has completely disappeared as a result ... ” I use the information from this class “every second of every day, even while I sleep.” “The class, through both its instructors and its participants, helped boost my confidence, which helped deal with fears climbing, and helped me set (and achieve!) realistic and challenging goals for the summer.” “Enrolling in this class turned out to be the best decision I ever made for
my climbing career.” “I had some incorrect preconceived notions of my skill ability as a climber, I was coached to rise above them.” “The instructors have continued to be a willing helpful resource after the class, offering beta and information on any questions I come up with.” “I never could have imagined my first ice season would include leading WI4 and M4, let alone going on to climb two classic Alaska routes later that year!” The application deadline for the course is Sept. 13, and the updated course start date is Oct. 8. More information for the course and the application can be found at mazamas.org under Skill Builders. Feel free to email me (bpfarra@comcast. net) or John Frieh (john@johnfrieh.com) with any questions you might have.
From left to right: Graduate Darrell Weston climbing steep ice on the Mooses Tooth, Ham and Eggs. Ruth Gorge, AK. Graduate Todd Eddie leading an ice pitch on the Mooses Tooth, Ham and Eggs. Ruth Gorge, AK. Graduate Nate Mullen traversing the east side of the first gendarme of Yocum Ridge, Mt. Hood. Graduates Katie Mills and Todd Eddie on the East Ridge of the Devils Thumb, Stikine Ice Cap, Alaska. Photos: Brad Farra.
September 2013—9
Membership Benefits Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Eddie Bauer (online and all locations) 40% off First Ascent Line with their Pro Discount card (see our website) Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books (www. mountaineersbooks.org use code MZORE) 20% Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% nonsale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly-priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularlypriced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, OR) 10% U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%
10 —Mazama Bulletin
AYM Activities The Adventurous Young Mazamas leads activities year round targeted those in their 20s, 30s, early 40s, and of course anyone who is “Young at Heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age. by Paul Kallman
At the end of September, I will be stepping down as AYM Committee Chair. I have been chair for four years and it is time for me to move on. I will still be active as a hike leader for AYM and will be volunteering in various capacities for the Mazamas as time allows. I started participating in AYM activities in 2007 and became both a hike leader and a committee member in 2008. I was introduced to the Mazamas by a friend of mine who saw that I needed to get more involved in outdoor activities and meet new friends after a rough stretch in my personal life. I still remember my first hike with Trail Trips going to Little Huckleberry Mountain. The hike leader told me about AYM and the next week, I was hiking up Observation Peak with AYM. I made many friends, had a great time hiking and being involved in other AYM activities, and before long, I met my wife, Carlie. Carlie and I now have two children with whom we regularly hike and do other outdoor activities, hence, one of the reasons that I am stepping down as committee chair. I feel very fortunate to have been active with AYM and to have met so many wonderful people along the way. As I thought about my tenure as chair, I’ve realized something very important about AYM. As AYM, we go to great efforts to attract those in their 20s and 30s (slightly older too) to become active, both within AYM and our offered activities, and the larger Mazama community. When someone new comes on an AYM hike, we tell them about BCEP and the benefits of membership within the Mazamas. In fact one of our missions is to bring more members of this age demographic into the club. It can be challenging at times, because those in their 20s and 30s go through a lot of transitions. People start families (myself included), move out of the area for a new job, return to school for advance degrees, and so on. As a result we get a lot of new participants and many of our regular participants move on. This is not bad, it is just something that happens. But, for AYM, we strive to maintain a consistent schedule and list of offerings. We offer hikes every weekend, we offer annual events such as Winter Weekend at the Mazama Lodge, Smith Rock weekend in September, and our Nesika Lodge trip every March, and of course we offer rambles, backpacking trips, camping trips, and our monthly Pub Night. In order to offer a regular schedule of events, we use tools such as our Facebook Fan page, e-mail
list, and website to provide information about the activities we offer. But, despite our use of social media, the most successful way to find new AYM participants is word of mouth. We as a committee rely on the general membership to tell others about AYM. If you are in your 20s and 30s and have not been to an AYM event, then come check out one of our events, or better yet, become a hike leader or volunteer for us. If you know someone in their 20s or 30s, maybe a family member, or a co-worker, or someone you just randomly know that is looking for a fun group of people with whom they can hike and meet new friends along the way, then tell them about AYM. Share our website link (tinyurl. com/mazamaaym) where we have our most up to date schedule and links to our photos albums, Facebook page, and how to sign up for our e-mail list. In speaking for the AYM committee, I thank all of you for your efforts in making AYM so successful. At the deadline for the Mazama Bulletin entry, we have not confirmed a date for our annual Smith Rock weekend, which we hold every September. Please go to our website for the exact date of the Smith Rock weekend and sign up information along with details of all of our upcoming scheduled activities.
Membership Report • July 2013 Applications for Membership: ...14 Anna Blumenkron—Mt. Pachincha, Ecuador Brian Clark—South Sister Mark Halvorson—Mt. Hood Layne Leach—Mt. Baker Anna Long—Mt. Hood Jonathan Longley—South Sister Helen Maher—Mt. Thielson Kati Mayfield—South Sister Josh Sabran—South Sister Jonathan Scheff—Forbidden Peak Kendra Seniow—Mt. Adams Jean Tuller—Mt. Mt. Hood Derek Walter—Mt. Adams Tim Wright—South Sister
Reinstatements:...................... 0 Total Membership July 30, 2013:.................. 3,320 July 30, 2012:.................. 3,183
News and Notes Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Max Rupert, 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
Former United States President (and honorary Mazama) Theodore Roosevelt and tycoon John D. Rockefeller—famous adversaries in the early 20th century—finally made peace at Mazama Lodge here in the early 21st century. Thanks to a generous grant from the Rockefeller Foundation, the national environmental group Focus the Nation hosted some of this country’s most innovative graduate students to tackle the energy and climate challenges our world is facing. During the third week of August, delegates learned about the challenges Mt. Hood faces from climate change, as well as potential solutions. Under the watchful eye of Roosevelt’s portrait—and yes, paid for by the estate of Roosevelt’s long-time political foe John D. Rockefeller—progress is slowly happening. Mazama Lodge is proud to have provided the neutral ground for this reconciliation. This past winter, we enjoyed a visit by one of the Mazamas’ youngest and strongest members, Nicholas Loring. Nicholas loves coming to Mazama Lodge with his grandmother, and last September at the age of
8, he became a Mazama, reaching the summit of South Sister! This past winter during a visit to Mazama Lodge, Nicholas was not feeling himself, and not long afterward, he was diagnosed with leukemia. When his cancer doctor explained the long fight ahead, Nicholas was quick to let his doctor know, “I’m strong! I have climbed a mountain and I’m ready for my treatment!” We are looking forward to Nicholas returning to Mazama Lodge and reaching more summits! Thank you Nicholas for your enthusiasm for Mazama Lodge and for showing us your strength through mountain climbing and your fight against cancer at such a young age. Friends of Mazama Lodge are all invited to spend a night at the lodge on Friday, Sept. 20, and then join a work party on Saturday, Sept. 21 from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (You knew there had to be a catch!). Friday night lodging is free and all meals will be provided on both days. Thanks in advance for everyone’s volunteering efforts. Let get our lodge ready for the snow season!
Lost Lake Chuckwagon Weekend— October 4-6, 2013 Come and join us for the “throwback” Mazama hiking event of the year, while the good weather is still around! Like the good ‘ole days, we will enjoy the wonderful cooking skills of the Mazama Lodge staff and hike the superb trails from Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge to the beautiful Lost Lake Campground via the most famous trails in Oregon (PCT, Timberline Trail, Skyline Trail). Total distance is approximately 26 miles and you won’t mind the total elevation gain of around 4,000 ft. Friday night, we will arrive at the Mazama Lodge and have a delicious dinner and meet our fellow hikers. On Saturday, separate hiking groups will get transported to Timberline Lodge where we will start our hike westward toward Paradise Park and continue downhill toward Zigzag Mountain for lunch along Burnt Lake, where you can dip into the chilly water. After lunch we continue down to the Lost Creek Campground, where we will find our gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc.) waiting for us, along with a chuckwagon dinner by the Lodge grillmasters. Sunday, after a filling breakfast, we will continue as a large group (old-style since we will not be in the Mt. Hood Wilderness) and start at Top Spur, cross Lolo Pass, and follow the Bull Run area boundary to Lost Lake general store, where beer buying is optional! The Lodge vans will take us back to the Mazama Lodge for some snacks and then we say “goodbye” and head for home. A carpool will be available to take you up and back to the Mazama Lodge if you prefer. Cost of the event is $130 for members and $160 for nonmembers. For more information, or to sign up, refer to the Mazama Lodge website, or email Rick Amodeo at ricka@aaieng.com.
Mazamas Have Been Chasing Ice For Over 116 Years trove for recent researchers. In 2002 Karl of the Eliot and Newton Clark Glaciers are Thanks to Jeff Thomas, Tom Bennett, Lillquist of Central Washington University available in our library. In a Mazama Bulletin Andrew Fountain, Hassan Basagic, Jim was awarded a Mazama research grant O’Connor and Frank Granshaw for help with vol. 2 no. 3 July 1903, Reid wrote, “It would to study the historic fluctuations and be a matter of interest to the Mazamas to this article. relationships to climate change of the Mt. contribute to the problem of the variations You may have noticed in recent Bulletins Hood glaciers, and in 2007 his graduate of glaciers by observing and recording the that PSU/PCC Professor Frank Granshaw is student Jared Treser received a grant to changes which occur among the glaciers of looking for volunteer photographers to do correlate the changes in aerial extent of all Oregon and Washington.” panoramic photography and data gathering 12 Mt. Adams glaciers since 1900, using In 1924 the Mazama Research Committee on Washington’s Blue, Nisqually, and Mazama photo archives. was formed to collect scientific information Emmons Glaciers. Granshaw received a 2013 That same year, PSU’s Andrew Fountain about mountains. Their initial focus on the Mazama research grant to create virtual field was awarded a Mazama research grant to Reid Glacier in October 1924 shifted to the experiences in Western National Parks as compare Oregon Cascades glaciers from Palmer Snowfield due to bad weather and an online educational resource. Or perhaps 1930 to today, using new aerial photographs poor visibility on the Reid. In 1925 when the you saw PSU geographer Hassan Basagic’s “Glacier Rephoto Database: Mt. Hood” on the Mazama blog. Basagic’s work, which was supported by a 2012 Mazama research grant, involved repositioning photographic stations from Mazama archival footage of Harry Fielding Reid’s and W. A, Langille’s photos from 110 years ago. Basagic’s database (http:// rephoto.glaciers.us) was compiled in collaboration with the Glaciers of the American West Project at PSU (www.glaciers.pdx. edu). The PSU website also has Basagic’s presentation to the Mountain Climate Meeting in 2006 on glacier changes with repeat photography. Caption: The Nisqually Glacier on Mount Rainier has undergone dynamic changes as evident in the three frames The support of from 1964 (NSIDC), 1978 (USGS), and 2012 (Glacier RePhoto Project). Granshaw’s and Basagic’s work by the Mazama and comparing them with Mazama archive Cooper Spur Road to Cloud Cap went in, the Research Committee continues a long photos from the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s. Mazamas shifted their glacier research to the tradition of Mazama mountain and glacier His purpose was to quantify glacial change Eliot. In 1935, aerial photographic surveys research. On a Mazama Rainier climb in to investigate the effects of global warming. were started on Mt. Hood. Mt. Adams, Mt. 1897, led by legendary Native American Fountain’s study continues the Mazama photographer Edward Curtis, Edgar McClure, Rainier and Mount St. Helens were added tradition of glacier observation by aerial in 1936, and Mt. Jefferson and Three Sisters a University of Oregon chemist, toted a yardphotography, and his comparison photos were added in 1937. The 1936 Research long mercurial barometer to the summit to (photographed in 2007 by John Scurlock) are Committee report stated, “The chief purpose determine the precise elevation—he was 117 available at the Mazama Library and at PSU. of the reports however is to extend the ft. too high. Unfortunately, in a fall on the In an interview, Fountain pointed out that study of glaciations on the local mountains way down from Muir, McClure was also the between 1930 and 2007 glaciers retreated by putting on record authentic information first recorded Rainier fatality. 20 percent on the Three Sisters, with the concerning its nature and extent at this time, In 1901 on a Mazama Mt. Hood outing, Collier Glacier retreating the most. He also so that students of the subject in the decades which 175 attended, Harry Fielding Reid, mentioned that the 2007 photos can also be to come will have a reliable basis by which to Johns Hopkins geology professor and father used for climbing, since many topo maps are determine the changes taking place.” In 1946 of American glaciology, had the Reid Glacier decades out of date. Also at www.glaciers. Ray Atkeson reprised the Hood aerial photos, named for him and was made an Honorary pdx.edu is Fountain’s 2007 presentation on and in 1956 Hugh Ackroyd did aerial photos Mazama member. Reid led 60 Mazamas to a century of glacier change in the American in the Cascades. the White River Glacier where permanent West to the American Geophysical Union. These early Mazama photographs and research stations were established to glacier measurements have been a treasure photograph the glacier’s snout. Reid’s photos
continued on next page
12 —Mazama Bulletin
Mazamas Chasing Ice, continued from previous page Another geologist who has extensively used the Mazama archives for glacier research is Jim O’Connor. For over 20 years he has primarily worked in the Three Sisters area, especially on the Collier Glacier. When interviewed and asked why, he jokingly said, for “fun” and “it’s a good excuse for a backpack.” Two winters ago at the MMC he presented some of his findings about our vanishing Three Sisters glaciers. He has matched Mazama photos from 1910 with photos from 2010, and also used the 1938 report to the Research Committee on vanishing glaciers, an aerial survey of Hood, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters. In addition, he spoke about the work of Mazama member Ruth Hopson Keen, who studied the Collier Glacier for more than 40 years, beginning in 1933. O’Connor gratefully mentioned how crucial Mazama historian and archivist Jeff Thomas has been to his research. In April 2010, the Mazama Research Committee featured a research evening on Northwest glaciers and how they have changed in the past century. Both PSU’s Andrew Fountain and CWU’s Karl Lillquist spoke about their research findings, which were partially based on historic Mazama photogrpahs and glacier measurements. Historic photographs and artifacts from early glacier research were also on display. In addition to the Mazama Research Committee, the Conservation Committee has also been involved in presenting glacier research. In April 2007, the Conservation Committee sponsored the day-long Melting Mountains conference at the MMC. Titled “Global Warming: Mountains, the Environment, and our Community,” it focused on the impact of climate change on our mountains, glaciers, and in the Pacific Northwest and what the government and individuals can do about it. Andrew Fountain’s presentation from this conference is available at www.glaciers.pdx.edu. In addition, the Conservation Committee donated the proceeds from the Melting Mountains Conference to PSU for aerial photography documenting the impact of global warming on Cascade glaciers. This Oct. 4, the Conservation Committee is sponsoring another event, a presentation and panel discussion of James Balog’s Chasing Ice with panel particpants Andrew Fountain, PSU glaciologist; Carolyn Driedger, hydrologist and Outreach Coordinator for the USGS Cascade Volcano Observatory; Hassan Basagic, PSU geographer; and Jim O’Connor, USGS geologist. This award-winning documentary uses revolutionary time-lapse photographs to document the destruction of our vanishing glaciers.
Chasing Ice Presentation and Panel Discussion When: Friday, Oct. 4; 7 p.m.
Where: Mazama Mountaineering Center, Holman Auditorium What: See James Balog’s award-winning 2012 documentary Chasing Ice. In 2005 National Geographic sent James Balog to the Arctic to photograph evidence of our changing climate. Within months Balog conceived of the Extreme Ice Survey, a revolutionary new approach that used time-lapse cameras positioned on glaciers around the globe to capture a multi-year record of changes to the world’s vulnerable glaciers. In terrifying and beautiful images, these time-lapse photographs depict the dramatic and drastic erosion and disappearance of ancient, enormous glaciers. As Robert F. Kennedy, Jr. stated, Chasing Ice is “the smoking gun on climate change.” After the film, you’ll have the opportunity to hear a panel of glacier experts comment about it, and respond to audience questions. Who: Panelists Andrew Fountain, moderator and PSU glaciologist; Carolyn Driedger, hydrologist and outreach coordinator for the USGS Cascades Volcano Observatory; Jim O’Connor, USGS hydrologist and geologist; Hassan Basagic, PSU geographer and founder of the Glacier Rephoto Project. Andrew Fountain, Hassan Basagic, and Jim O’Connor have all used the Mazama photo archives for glacier research; Fountain and Basagic also received funding from the Mazama Research Committee. For more information see the Conservation Corner article, Mazamas have been Chasing Ice for over 116 Years, on page 12. Why: Chasing Ice is a “must see” documentary for Mazamas and others concerned about mountains. Even if you have already seen the film, come hear reactions of our panel of experts and questions from the audience. A voluntary donation to the Conservation Committee in support of conservation efforts is requested. Any questions? Please contact Kate Evans at 503-635-6540. Sponsored by the Mazama Conservation Committee
Book Review: Ice Portraits of Vanishing Glaciers
Some of you may have seen environmental photographer James Balog’s brilliant documentary Chasing Ice. If not, you can enjoy it with a panel of glacier experts at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on Oct. 4. You can also find a copy of Balog and the Extreme Ice Survey’s (EIS) companion book Ice Portraits of Vanishing Glaciers at our library. Since 2007 Balog and his EIS team of photographers, scientists, filmmakers, and engineers have used as many as 43 time-lapse cameras clicking photographs every 30 minutes during daylight hours on 18 glaciers in Greenland, Iceland, the Himalaya, Alaska, and the United States. (Team member Conrad Anker is responsible for the Everest cam.) The survey’s purpose is to record the mechanics and pace of glacial retreat and how it relates to climate change. The stunningly beautiful photographs both celebrate the art and architecture of ice and provide terrifying evidence of how climate change is affecting the world. A self-described pagophile (ice lover), Balog passionately believes in bearing witness to what climate change is doing to our magnificent and vanishing glaciers. According to Balog, “Ice matters. It’s the place where we can see and hear and feel climate change in action. When ice melts, everyone—regardless of age or ideological persuasion—can understand what it means.” He wishes to provide the glaciers a “visual voice” and visual memory. We need to listen and see. Another artist bearing witness is renowned environmental author Terry Tempest Williams in the poetic epilogue to Ice, “An Expedition of Beauty,” with its repeated lines, “Ice holds the history of the world” and “The history of the world is melting.” Listen. See.
Supporting outdoor enthusiasts x-train wellness rehab Weekly Yoga Classes Therapeutic Massage
Eugene Lewins
www.MassageWithEugene.com 503-939-9657
LMT 16438
September 2013—13
Successful Climbers July 26, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: John Godino, Asst: Kirstin Labudda. John Andrews, Luke Hampton, Kendra Howard, Mike Klepfer, Johnny Leahy, Ellen Manderfield, Tom June 30, Mt. Adams, Avalanche-White Salmon Glacier. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Jay Miller, Robert Sinnott, Shad Williams Avery. Michael Gurley, Jeff Jackson, Brandon July 27, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Larkin, Mike Pennington, Virgina Tarango George Shay, Asst: Steve Warner. Kim Edger, Heath Harrelson, Rae Lantsberger, Rico July 7, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, standard. Micallef, Charles Reneau, Cyndy Rutto Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Lisa Brady. Mike June 27, Mt.McLoughlin, East Ridge. Leader: Robert Caldwell, Asst: Sherry Bourdin. Justin Dewan, Alex Lockard, William O’Brien
Delaune, Bridget Martin
July 27, Forbidden Peak, West Ridge. July 11, Mt.Blanc, Gouter. Leader: Lisa Brady, Leader: Steven Heikkila, Asst: Derek Castonguay. Matt Bailie, Judith Baker, Craig Martin, Asst: Gary Bishop. Mike DeLaune, Marty Scott Margaret McCarthy July 13, Mt. Buckner, North Face. Leader: July 27, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Derek Castonguay. Jonathan Patrice Cook, Asst: Mark Korsness. Brad Hupy, Barrett, Ann Griffin Carrie Kyser July 14, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. July 28, Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier. Leader: Bill McLoughlin, Asst: Lisa Ripps. Paul Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Larry Beck. Alex Griffith, Eric Kennedy Fox, Cody Shotola-Schiewe, Kim Osgood, July 17, The Tooth, South Face. Leader: Laura Greene, Mark Beyer, Ryan Maher, Seng Rayce Boucher, Asst: Lynne Pedersen. Ben Cline, Phou, Sharon Birchfield, Sojo Hendrix Jesse Davidson, Philip Hunter, Shayna Rehberg, July 28, Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats. Ted Slupesky Leader: Richard Caldwell, Asst: Tom Bard. July 19, Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier. Amy Caldwell, Katie Oppenheimer, Lillian Leader: Greg Willmarth, Asst: Dave Pyszkowski. Oppenheimer, Diana Oppenheimer, Charles Peter Allen, Howard Buck, Seeger Fisher, Daniel Oppenheimer Robinson, Cloudy Sears, Virginia Tarango July 28, Union Peak, Standard. Leader: July 20, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Robert Caldwell, Asst: Alex Lockard. Sherry Jill Kellogg, Asst: Deb Hill. Chuck Young, Peg Bourdin, William O’Brien, Jeanne Shults Gauthier, Jeff Nastoff, Scott Stevenson July 29, Mt. Bailey, Standard. Leader: July 21, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Robert Caldwell, Asst: Virginia Tarango. Sherry Richard Bronder, Asst: Ted Slupesky. Stephanie Bourdin, Alex Lockard, Jeanne Shults Bruckbauer, Matt Fogarty, Marjorie Hendrix, July 29, Middle Sister, Renfrew Galcier. Sojo Hendrix, Patricia Neighbor, Naveen Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Lisa Ripps. Eric Ramaswamy, Joan Wallace, Dan Zinder Bruckbauer, Trent Carlisle, Carrie Kyser, Alex July 21, Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Leader: Lockard, Amanda Wallinger Montalto Matt Carter, Asst: Wade Shelton. Quentin Carter, July 31, Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Zack Cross, Alicia Imbody, Brad Noren, John Rettig, Sarah Root, Jonathan Skeen, Kai Snyder Leader: Carol Bryan, Asst: Chris Rears. Wendell Hartlauer, Layne Russell, Brad Wood July 21, Chiwawa Peak, Red Mountain. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Rigor (no summit). August 3, South Sister, Green Lakes. Leader: John Meckel, Asst: Al Papesh. Nick Jay Avery, Greg Graham, Michael Zasadzien Besson, Sojo Hendrix, Brian Klump, Marta July 21, Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier. Martinez, Jesús Martinez, Rico Micallef, Kirk Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Jeff Jackson. Susan Newgard, Sandra Volk, Maggie Woodward Jeltsch, Micah Mayes, Margaret McCarthy, August 4, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Sanman Rokade John Meckel, Asst: Al Papesh. Nick Besson, Bill July 22, Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier. Leader: Dewsnap, Sojo Hendrix, Brian Klump, Marta Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Michelle VanKleeck. Amy Martinez, Jesús Martinez, Rico Micallef, Kirk Graham, Marci Hansen, Paul Johnson, Ryan Newgard, Sandra Volk, Maggie Woodward Jones, Thomas Nancarrow, Brad Unruh August 9, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. July 22, Gannett Peak (WY), Gooseneck Leader: Hugh Brown, Asst: Jim Ronning. Glacier. Leader: Donna Vandall, Asst: Tom Howard Buck, Mark Duin, Alex Smirnov, Davidson. Sherry Aanerud, Ann Ames, Sue Roger Wong Dimin, Dyanne Foster August 10, Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge. July 24, Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Jonathan Meyers. Jon Leader: George Cummings, Asst: Mark Curran. Bonnet, Erin Devlin, Greg Graham, Sandee Brianna Graw, Graeme Jack, Gretchen Mollers, Myers, Laynem Russell, Lee Siebert John Shatzer
14 —Mazama Bulletin
August 10, Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Ted Slupesky. Ken Carlson, Bill Dewsnap, Katier Feiertag, Jill Frey, Alex Gauthier, Morgan Harvey, Majorie Hendryx, John Leahy, Andea Ogston, Joan Wallace August 11, Eagle and Chutla, Eagle Trail. Leader: Richard Bronder, Asst: Ted Slupesky. Ken Carlson, Bill Dewsnap, Katie Feiertag, Jill Frey, Alex Gauthier, Morgan Harvey, Marjorie Hendryx, John Leahy, Andrea Ogston, Joan Wallace
Mazama Climb Awards Ever year at the Annual Celebration Mazamas recognize climbing accomplishments and give climbing awards. Climbing Committee is receiving climbing applications for climbing awards. Qualifying climbs for all these awards must be official Mazama climbs. Climbing Awards • Guardian Peaks: Mount. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. • Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, 3-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister. • 16 Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, 3-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Oympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. Leader awards • Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks • 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.
Application deadline for the 16 Peak and Terry Becker Award is Sept. 20. For all other awards, the deadline is Oct. 15. Mail your applications along with copies of summit certificates to MMC. Climbing Award applications can be downloaded at http://www.mazamas.org/ your/adventure/starts-here/C363/.
Upcoming Climbs
Sept./Oct.
It’s not too late participate in summer climbs. This list includes the climbs with openings and those that are taking alternates for the next 45 days. Please reference the online climb schedule for the most up-to-date information. Don’t miss out! Submit those climb cards today. Departure Return Mountain, Route Codes 9/05–AM 9/05–PM Plummer Peak, Standard Route A(C)(F) 9/06–AM 9/08–PM Mt. Maude, South Shoulder B+(L)(E)(L#164) 9/06–PM 9/07–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(C) 9/06–AM 9/08–PM Seven Fingered Jack, Southwest Slope B+(L)(E)(L#163) 9/07–AM 9/09–PM Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge C+(E) 9/09–AM 9/12–PM South Early Winter Spire, South Arete E(L)(L#193) 9/09–AM 9/12–PM North Early Winter Spire, South Face E(L)(L#194) 9/13–AM 9/16–PM Del Campo Peak, South Gully B+(P)(L)(E)(L#280) 9/13–PM 9/14–PM Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats A(H) 9/12–PM 9/15–PM Dumbell Mountain, Southwest Route B(E) 9/13–AM 9/15–PM Gilbert Peak (Curtis–Gilbert), Klickton Divide A+(E) 9/13–PM 9/15–PM Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek A(E) 9/13–AM 9/15–PM Liberty Bell, Beckey Route D(A)(ICS)(AR)(A#272) 9/13–AM 9/15–PM South Early Winter Spire, South Arete E(A)(ICS)(AR)(A#271) 9/13–AM 9/16–PM Gothic Peak, East Side B+(P)(L)(E)(L#56) 9/19–AM 9/19–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A(H) 9/19–PM 9/22–PM Yellow Aster Butte, Yellow Aster Meadows A+(L)(E)(L#200) 9/19–AM 9/22–PM Mt. Berge & Mt. Buck, Buck Cr. Tr./High Pass B+(BCEP) 9/20–AM 9/22–PM Tomyhoi Peak, SE Ridge B+(L)(E)(L#201) 9/20–AM 9/22–PM Columbia Peak, West Ridge B+(E) 9/22–AM 9/22–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(H) 9/27–PM 9/29–PM Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall D(ICS)(AR) 9/29–AM 9/29–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A(N)(BCEP) 9/28–AM 9/29–PM Pinnacle Peak, Standard Route A(F)(P)(BCEP) 10/12–AM 10/13–PM Mt. Baker, Coleman Glacier Headwall E+ 10/19–AM 10/20–PM Lemei–Bird–Sawtooth Traverse, S to N A+(E)(BCEP)
Leader Ray Sheldon Donna Vandall Lori Freeman Donna Vandall Kevin Clark Marty Scott Shirley Welch Rayce Boucher Lori Freeman Eugene Lewins Robert Caldwell Kevin Clark Darrell Weston Darrell Weston Rayce Boucher Amy Mendenhall Doug Wilson Daniel Bailey Doug Wilson Jon Major Bruce Yatvin Darrell Weston Dick Bronder Craig Martin Preston Corless Daniel Bailey
Spots Status Open Alternates Alternates Alternates Alternates Open Open Alternates Open Open Alternates Alternates Open Open Alternates Alternates Alternates Alternates Alternates Alternates Alternates Open Open Open Open Alternates
Climb# 151 163 169 164 338 194 193 56 170 233 242 243 271 272 280 20 201 29 200 335 23 273 86 337 207 38
Intermediate Snow Skills Mini-Course
In early August, the Mazamas piloted a brand new mini-course, Intermediate Snow Skills. This mini-course was designed for people interested in making the leap from beginner snow climbs to intermediate routes, in a convenient mini-course format. The course consisted of one evening lecture, and two days out on the White River Glacier. We had a great crew of eager students and instructors to make this inagural class a big success! Thanks to the Advanced Snow & Ice Committee for making this class possible.
Left: Wim Aarts demonostrating how to make a snow bollard. Right: Students rappelling onto the White River Glacier. Photos: Steve Heikkila
September 2013—15
Mt. Jefferson— Jeff Park Glacier Climb Success! by Azure Olson
This was my second attempt at climbing Mt. Jefferson. I decided that when I climbed this peak, I wanted it to be an epic and fun adventure that I would never forget as nine times of out ten it’s a peak that people do not return to. I like the thought of a challenging, long, mixed glacier climb with 5th class rock, a knife edge ridge, possible ice, fun navigation, solitude, and no defined trail. Sounds fun, right? I had heard only good things about Jefferson Park Glacier, so I threw it on the climb schedule this year hoping to get a party of climbers who are up for the challenge and trust a GIRL to take them up the peak. I initially convinced Keith Campbell, my go to guy who enjoys climbs of this nature. I asked him to be my assistant and he agreed. In the days that followed, we talked logistics about the climb and gathered previous trip reports from other climbers. My climb team consisted of Keith Campbell, Darrell Weston, Eric Brainich, Mac McCullough, Tyson Wilder.
16 —Mazama Bulletin
Our stated date to climb the peak was June 28. It was to be a three-day climb, hiking into base camp on Friday, attempting the summit Saturday, and hike out on Sunday. Weather looked hot and sunny the week of the climb. Unfortunately, Keith couldn’t join us for the climb so I elected Darrell as my assistant. It was a go! We started at the Whitewater Trailhead around 10am. This was about a 5-mile hike into base camp in a wooded area next to the glacier at 7,000 feet. Surprisingly, there was a lot of snow on the way in and we were forced to navigate using GPS. We were on and off of the PCT navigating through the woods and beautiful meadows to find the base of the Jefferson Park Glacier just North of Jefferson Park camping area. Sitting at camp, the route looked to be in great shape. Taking in the view was progress since on my last attempt where I didn’t even get a glimpse of the mountain—what a majestic peak! The next day we took off around 2:45 a.m. We headed unroped to the base of the steeper part of the glacier just below the first bergschrund. We roped up here. About this time, we ran into the only other party, a private Mazama party—Victor Galotti, Tim Welch, and one of their friends. We followed them up and around the ’schrund. The snow was wonderful, not too hard but not too soft. I was a little concerned about the rock fall, so I wanted to move quickly when we were beneath Mohler Rock. A few rocks came down and we had to be really aware and cautious. Now we were below the base of the upper ’schrund and had to figure out a way to get over this obstacle. We ended up going over a bridge in the center and climbed up and over a
difficult lip. Victor and Tim kindly prepped the lip for us ... and we all crossed without incident. It was daylight now (around 5 a.m.) and we continued up to the saddle on a snow slope in between Mohler and Smith Rock. We took a break, then proceeded to the ridge line where we took our crampons off and short-roped for a longer 5th class rock section. I led through rock that had a few tricky icy spots. I sewed this up pretty well, using all the slings that my team had brought to protect it. Once through this section we could see the defined ridgeline that traverses toward the summit. We got a good view of the summit pinnacle and the “Terrible Traverse,” thinking to ourselves “... hmmm, how are we going to do that?” I couldn’t be sure how I would tackle the summit until I got a closer look at it. At around 9 a.m., we proceeded along this ridge line to another interesting 5th class rock section. This part of the climb was slow and awkward and I took our team up the “Azure Direct” route. Next up ... the aforementioned “Terrible Traverse.” We vowed to go up a snow ramp since we watched the other team ascend an awkward rock section that they had to redo. The traverse and ramp were slow and steep. Midway up to the summit we found a mixed ice/rock section we had to cross, traversing left leading to some 4th to low 5th class rock moves. Finally, the summit pinnacle! We had a steep climb up to the summit on snow using two tools. The clouds were in and out, but we had good views. We decided to wait for the other team to ascend to enjoy the summit with fellow Mazamas. We reached the summit around 2 p.m. Success was ours! We rappelled off the south side of the summit, which led us to the Red Saddle and Whitewater Glacier—our safest route down. This was very time consuming, and it was a couple of hours before we
were moving again toward the Red Saddle around 4 p.m. It was a very steep traverse over to the saddle. We then headed east down the slope, traversed some rock and finally the Whitewater Glacier, staying high toward the mountain. Time was ticking away ... crampons on, crampons off ... you know the drill. We continued on higher on the mountain. Finally we hit the 8,000 ft. point were we wanted to cross to the north side. We arrived at camp at 11:30 p.m., a 20.5-hour summit day. Success, fun, and sense of accomplishment was felt by all. I promise myself one epic climb a year and this was a good one. The scariest part of the climb was probably the ride home the next day with Darrell! Left to right: Azure Olson on the summit pinnacle. Photo: Mac McCullough. Our team on the knife edge ridgeline heading north toward the summit pinnacle, picture taken looking south. Photo: Victor Galotti. Mazama climb party: (left to right) Eric, Darrell, Azure, Mac, and Tyson. Photo: Azure Olson. Our climb party descending toward the Red Saddle and the Whitewater Glacier. Photo: Azure Olson.
September 2013—17
Adventure Travel local • national • International 2013
Backpack and Climb in the Trinity Alps Sept. 15–21, 2013 Come spend six days in the spectacular alpine wilderness of the Trinity Alps in northern California, and hopefully we’ll bag a few peaks, as well. The Trinitys are like the Wallowas on steroids, with far fewer people. Typically in September the weather is perfect and the bugs are all gone. This area is oddly little-known to Portlanders, but it’s amazing. See the Mazama website for more detailed information: tinyurl.com/mazamaoutings. Contact leader Paul Gerald (paul@ paulgerald.com or 971-227-2059) or assistant Gary Beck (glbeck01@comcast.net) for details.
China–Tibet Sept. 29–Oct. 19, 2013 Full/Alternates Only Join us on an amazing spiritual, cultural and scenic journey to the most sacred mountain in Asia. The full trip begins in the ancient capital city of Xian, China. In Xian we view the Terra Cotta Warriors and hike up spectacular Hua Shan (Mountain). Then we board the coolest train ever for our trip to Lhasa, Tibet. In Lhasa, we tour the Potala and other famous monasteries, the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor and associated sites. From Lhasa we proceed by land cruiser west to Gyantse, Shigatse, Lhatse, and on to western Tibet’s Lake Manasarovar and then to Mt. Kailash where we will do a three-day kora, or trek, around the sacred mountain. From Mt. Kailash we’ll return to Lhasa by the scenic southern route through the Himalayas, including a visit to the North Ridge Everest Base Camp and a tour of the Sakya Monastery. There are two trip options: The entire 21-day China-Tibet trip (Sept. 29–Oct. 19) costs approximately $4,200–$4,500, or the 16-day Tibet-only trip (Oct. 4–19, begins and ends in Lhasa) costs approximately $3,700– $4,000. Airfare is not included. Group size will be 10–15. The deposit is $500. For more info, an itinerary or an application, contact trip leader Joe Whittington (joewhittington@gmail.com, 503297-6344). Our assistant leader is Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@gmail.com, 503-9399657).
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outings
Trekking in Patagonia Feb. 8–22, 2014 At the southern end of the Earth lies a wide, windswept, wonderful land called Patagonia. Though it’s technically in both Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is a place of its own, a land of calving glaciers, vast lakes, awesome steppes and peaks so jagged and immense they pause the mind and stir the heart. Patagonia calls to the adventure traveler and mainly to the hiker. Once in Patagonia, we will spend two weeks doing both day hikes and multi-day hikes both in Chile and Argentina. We’ll day-hike into the mighty range of peaks dominated by Monte Fitz Roy, an 11,020ft. tower whose sheer face of more than 6,000 ft. makes it one of the world’s most challenging climbs. We’ll also catch views of the Continental Ice Field and even walk on the surface of the sprawling Perito Moreno Glacier. In Chile we will visit the Torres del Paine National Park. Here lie the famous Towers of Paine. In the park, we’ll hike hutto-hut for five days along the “W” Circuit (named for its shape), winding in and out of spectacular mountain valleys, past Grey Glacier and up the spectacular French Valley, surrounded by hanging glaciers and an amphitheater of granite walls and spires. Contact donovan@embarkadventures.com for more details. $3,995 per person excluding air fare. Need a minimum of eight people to go.
The Mother of All Street Rambles: New York City April 29-May 7, 2014 Lodging is in a very desirable location close to Central Park. Hike Central Park and visit sites of interest all over Manhattan, Hudson River, East River, and Long Island—via Ramble and occasional ferry or subway. Ride in the Five Boro Bike Tour. It is time that New York City learned who the Mazamas are! NYC will seem a lot smaller once it is rambled! This outing is priced based on a group of 20. Initial registration fee has three tiers which include Mazama fees and $128 refundable security deposit and miscellaneous fees.
Two to a bed: $725; Single bed: $850; Sleeping bag (count must match single bed registrations): $600. Airfare ($320–$400) is not included and not required at time of registration. All registration money goes to lodging and miscellaneous refundable fees. Leader: John A. Davis (503-358-5900). Co-Leader: Steven Watts. For pictures of lodging, itinerary, additional information, and additional costs see the outing’s website: http://208.106.134.151/NYC2014.aspx
Corsica Long-Distance Hiking June 14–30, 2014 Seeking a long-distance hike with spectacular scenery, culture and typically great summer weather? The GR20, “one of the top trails in the world” according to outdoor writer Paddy Dillon, winds 125 miles along the crest of the island of Corsica. This is not a plod along with your mind on something else kind of a trail, but a rocky and varying high route with scrambling options and both alpine and ocean views. Using a local company as outfitters we will carry only day packs and sleep in refuges or set tents, enjoying simple local cuisine at group meals. 16 days of hiking, with the longest day being 13 miles and 3,300 ft. ascent, and highest altitude 7,300 ft. We will hike from south to north, leaving the climactic Cirque de la Solitude for the second week, and enjoy the best light for photography. The island of Corsica, administered as part of France but with its own unique culture, makes a destination both accessibly westernEuropean and yet exotically Mediterranean. Trip leader speaks French and both leader and assistant have led European tours and hiked long-distance trails. Group size 8– 10, outing costs $3,000 plus airfare, $500 deposit. Leader: Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@ gmail.com), Assistant Leader: Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com)
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.
Hiking Northeast Oregon with William L. Sullivan Thursday, Sept. 12, 5–7:30 p.m. at MMC. Attend this great presentation sponsored by Hells Canyon Preservation Council. Famed hiking book author William L. Sullivan (www.oregonhiking.com) will introduce you to the best hikes and backpacking in the Wallowas, Hells Canyon and nearby areas. There will be a social hour starting at 5 p.m., where you can meet the author, enjoy light refreshments, no-host wine and beer, and music by The Ruby Pines (www.rubypines.com). The author’s featured presentation and slide-show will start at 6:30 p.m. There will also be a silent auction for exceptional travel packages, including B&B’s in Joseph and Walla Walla, the Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City, a raft trip on the Grande Ronde, a cabin on the coast, and more. Enter the raffle to win a complete five-book set of Sullivan’s “100 Hikes.” The event is open to the public. $15 cover charge. Hells Canyon Preservation Council (www.hellscanyon. org) was founded in 1967 to prevent the damming of Hells Canyon and now works from La Grande to protect the wild throughout Northeast Oregon. Learn about the rich diversity of a region that soars from the deepest gorge in North America to subalpine peaks, from cacti to white bark pine, from wolves to wolverines, from forest to prairie. Meet Executive Director Darilyn Parry Brown, her staff and board members.
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Mountain Shop Bike Studio Between your climbs, schedule a free fit assessment with our experts
1510 NE 37th AVE Portland
(503) 288-6768
www.mountainshop.net September 2013—19
Rebecca Schob high up on Forbidden’s East Ridge. Photo: Nate Mullen. Mt. Hood’s shadow at dawn on a Mazama Mt. Hood climb. Photo: Justin Colquhoun.
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Time Warp by Jack Grauer
1963—50 years Ago Tom Gibbons of the Exploration-Expedition Committee repoted that a group was ready to leave for a challenging climbing exploration at Mount Waddington, the highest peak in the British Columbia Coast Range. Martha Darcy continued her many years as librarian. Climbing Committee Chair Allison Belcher reported that bad weather had allowed only 43 percent of starting climbers to earn summit certificates. Also a second makeup graduation climb had been scheduled for the climbing school. Major William D. Hackett, a Mazama since 1925, resigned from the U.S. Army after 20 years of service and returned to Portland to enter the business world. He and his wife were temporarily living at Hadley House, 2020 SW Salmon Street. An over-confident black bear began to visit Mazama Lodge. He left the lodge cook, Judy Johnson, speechless, when he walked up on the rear deck to investigate picnic baskets. Her husband, Ted Johnson, chased the bear away, but both he and Judy were concerned about it hurting someone.
1913—100 years Ago W.D. Lyman recalled Indian myths of Mt. Adams: There was a great bridge (Tomanowas) across the Columbia and dwelling upon it was a witch woman, Loowit, who guarded the fire. It was the only fire on earth, and men had not yet learned to use it. In pity for the destitute Indians who had no fire, Loowit secured permission from the supreme deity, Sahale, to introduce it to them. Thus happiness increased beyond measure along the Columbia Shores. No mountain peaks yet existed. Sahale then asked the benevolent Loowit to request any reward she might wish. She chose to become a beautiful Indian maiden, and with a wave of Sahale’s hand it was done. This wonderful blessing was soon dimmed when Indian chiefs fell in love with Loowit and began to fight one another. Loowit cared for none of them, until Wy’east to the south and Klikitat from the north came to woo her, and she could not decide which to choose. The struggle between the two became so hot that they led their warriors out to battle. Lodges were destroyed, forests burned, and lives were lost as everything turned bad. Sahale regretted that he had granted fire to the Indians and turned Loowit into a beautiful maiden. He broke the Tomanowas bridge into fragments and cast them into the river, thus creating the Cascades. Sahale then killed Loowit as well as Wy’east and Klikitat, her two lovers. Over each of them he created a great monument, Wy’east being Mt. Hood. Klikitat was Mt. Adams, and Loowit was Mount St. Helens. These were the guardian peaks of the Columbia River. Another legend from Mt. Adams was the thunderbird. Lyman recalled carrying a camera on a climb and met a descending Hood River party, which included an Indian. The native was very inquisitive about Lyman’s camera, and when the white men explained its use, he was sure that it would cause the thunder bird in an east side cave to cause a thunder storm. Electrical flashes and rumbles that night strongly enforced the Indian’s belief. Other Indians had a thunder god, Enumtla.
Meet Your Climb Leaders ... John Meckel Residence: Portland Hometown: I was born in Berkeley, CA, and after age 4 grew up in San Jose, CA. My family on both sides arrived in California during the gold rush—one from Germany and the other from the east coast. As many young people today, I moved to Oregon after university. I just did it 40 years ago. When and how did you become involved with Mazamas? Shortly after I arrived in Portland from California in 1970, I saw a Mazama sticker on a car and asked what that was about. I never followed up on it until 1996, but the seed was planted. In 1996 I took BCEP with my son. I enjoyed the class and have been a member ever since. What are your favorite climbs/hikes? Ruckel Ridge, Elevator Shaft, Forbidden, Royal Arches, North Ridge
of Stuart, Monkey Face, Cosmic Wall, anything in the Trinity Alps. Favorite rock based climb: This is hard. I really like the Cosmic Wall on the Ogre at Castle Crags, and I’ve had an almost religious experience on the upper pitch of Super Slab at Smith Rock, but the route I continue going back to is “Living Blindly” (also at Smith) not because it is hard but because I take ICS students on it every year for an unthreatening multipitch experience with lots of rope handling work, which I feel is way more important than climbing hard routes. Most difficult single pitch you have climbed: Again, I tend not to climb hard routes. I’m a solid 10to 10 climber with occasional 11- routes in the gym. While outside I stick to 5.8 or 5.9 or below. Falling can get you hurt and I don’t want to get hurt. What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward too this year? Sawtooth Mountain in the Trinity Alps. Best climbing memory: Waking up to sunrise at a bivy site on the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart.
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Future climbing goals: Climb as long as I can. Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: My brain. Guiding principal/philosophy: See beautiful places, have fun, lead from the back. Favorite leader treats: A good congenial climb team. Most influential book: Fine Woodworking. Favorite quote: John Kenneth Galbraith: The Government will get off the backs of the people when the people get their hands out of the government’s pockets.
Favorite Music/musician: Oregon Symphony, Mahavishnu Orchestra, Habib Koite. Favorite Movie: The Lives of Others. Favorite Restaurant: La Bartavelle in Goult, France. Favorite Website: Mazamas. Words that best describe you: “Not really retired.” Most treasured possessions: My father’s family history. I might say my wife, but I don’t really possess her! Pet Peeves: People who don’t pick up after their dogs. Favorite Vacation spot: Provence, France and Weaverville, California. When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you: Somewhere near my wife Barbara, the other love of my life.
Glaciers of the National Parks of Washington—A virtual field experience Frank D. Granshaw
Many of us who spend time in the high country have some sense of glaciers as a water and ecological resources. At the very least we frequently stop and contemplate their immensity, beauty, and history as we climb local peaks. But for many visitors to mountainous wilderness, glaciers are largely abstractions—high, inaccessible, patches of ice and snow clinging to distant peaks. Here in the “lower 48” nearly three quarters of all glaciers are found in Washington State. Of these, over half are located in three national parks—Olympic, Mt. Rainier, and North Cascades. In addition to being major components of these parks, these glaciers are sites of active research that provides us critical information about the extent and impact of climate change. Yet this is a hidden story for most park visitors, and much of the public due to the inaccessibility of all but a handful of the glaciers. This year, with funding from the Mazamas, a small group of researchers from Portland State University are partnering with the National Park Service to bring glacier exploration to anyone with access to a computer. The product of this project will be an online resource that has at its core a series of virtual field environments giving users the ability to explore three of the glaciers regularly being monitored by park staff and other glacial researchers. Like Google’s Street View, users can “walk” from place to place on these glaciers, examine features of interest up close, and access video and field data. In addition to having an educational path aimed at a general audience (park visitors, the general public, and secondary and college students), the website will have a second path intended for researchers that archives research results by linking them to the virtual environments. While much of the photography and data collection needed for the virtual environments is being done by us and National Park Staff, “more feet on the ground” are needed especially in the higher areas of Nisqually and Emmons Glaciers. If you are interested in helping and being trained in panoramic and mosaic photography, please contact Frank Granshaw, fgransha@pcc.edu, or come to the Alpine Photography skill builder taught by Andrew Holman on Sept. 4 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.
National Public Lands Day—September 28 Grant expands access to Beacon Rock by the Washington Wildlife and Recreation Coalition
On summer days, climbers can be seen scaling the core of an ancient volcano towering over the Columbia River Gorge in Beacon Rock State Park, reflecting the Pacific Northwest’s incredible geologic history and its heritage as a region that values access to the outdoors. The monolith for which the park is named offers some of the best climbing in southwest Washington and is located conveniently close to Portland. Many Mazama members have scaled the face of the rock, appreciating the views of its columnar basalt and sweeping vistas of the valley below. The park remains a popular destination not only for climbers but also school groups and hikers. Park amenities were beginning to feel a little crowded and needed to be expanded. Thanks to a recent state grant through the Washington Wildlife and Recreation Program (WWRP), a new picnic and kitchen facility will be added to the park so more park visitors can sit and enjoy a meal after a strenuous hike or climb. But that funding wasn’t always assured. Mazama members and Washington’s primary watchdog for outdoor recreation went to the capitol to advocate for increased funding for the state’s outdoors. Earlier this year, Stewardship and Communications Manager Adam Baylor and Executive Director Lee
Davis joined the Washington Wildlife and Recreation Coalition in Olympia to tell Washington legislators that funding was needed to improve parks like Beacon Rock. The Coalition’s work in partnership with more than 280 businesses, community groups and nonprofits has helped secure grants for more than 1,000 projects across the state, benefiting Washington residents and visitors in every county. Places like Beacon Rock have become icons for the group’s success. “It’s so important for people who are passionate about the outdoors to make their voices heard,” said Joanna Grist, Executive Director for the Coalition. “Hikers and climbers understand that outdoor recreation is deeply tied to our culture and, without support from our legislators, we would lose access to these beautiful places. We’re grateful that the legislature recognized the value of places like Beacon Rock in their budget decisions.” State Parks have not yet set a date for the new picnic shelter’s completion, but securing the WWRP grant was the first major hurdle. In the meantime, park-goers can continue to enjoy the many existing features at the park that have made it a popular destination for years. All outdoor enthusiasts can visit Beacon Rock for free on September 28 during National Public Lands Day.
September 2013—23
Kids Go Climbing Many Mazama families had a lot of fun enjoying the outdoors in July! Under the organization of Jodie Adams, 22 parents and children gathered for an evening picnic at Mt. Tabor on July 17. Everyone enjoyed the nice weather while visiting and playing near the North Slopes playground. This inaugural social gathering kicks off a monthly, low key gathering for parents and kids. In the summer months these will be held at various metro area parks. In the winter months these will be held at a kid friendly pub and at the MMC for a bit of wall climbing. Craig Martin organized the first annual family Rooster Rock climb on July 20 where 9 kids summited Rooster Rock! Two kids rappelled off by themselves and seven kids tandem rappelled with their parents or an assistant. Congratulations to Aviva Stein (7), Basil Stein (10), Helen Fick (12), Hyacinth Fick (9), Eric
Rotherham (10), Sam O’Leary (8), Kyla Martin (6), Kaleb Martin (10), and Jadzia Jula (6) for their ability to dig deep and overcome their fear to make it to the summit. Aviva, upon arriving at the summit, did a quick survey and said, it’s not big enough for a tent, but I could sleep up here with a sleeping bag. Many thanks to Craig who showed how important gummy bears are to a successful kid’s climb! On July 27 Richard Caldwell, with the assistance of Tom Bard, led a family climb of Old Snowy. Congratulations to Diana Oppenheimer (15), Katie Oppenheimer (12), Amy Caldwell (15) and Lillian and Charles Oppenheimer, too. Upcoming Events • Sept. 5: Plummer Peak • Sept. 18: Pittock Mansion Park Social • Sept. 21: Wahclella Falls Hike • Sept. 29: Pinnacle Peak Climb • Oct. 4–6: 1st Annual Smith Left page (clockwise from upper right): Rock Weekend Amy Caldwell and Richard Caldwell on the Summit of Old Snowy. Kyla Martin (6) • Oct. 15: Rocky Butte Summit sporting a twizzler smile and Jadzia Jula For more information on (6) getting ready to climb. Photo: Craig Mazama Family activities visit www. Martin. Mazama Families enjoying an tinyurl.com/mazamafamilies. To join evening Mt. Tabor clinic. our email list please drop us a line at families@mazamas.org. Right Page (clockwise from upper right): Sam O’Leary (8) and Andrea McKee. Photo: Bob Murphy. Basil Stein (10) and Jeff Litwak Spider Rappelling. Photo: Bob Murphy. Eric Rotherham (10) and Justin Rotherham. Photo: Bob Murphy. Aviva Stein (7), Basil Stein (10), and Bill Stein. Photo: Craig Martin. Katie (12), Diana (15), and Lillian and Charlie Oppenheimer on the Summit of Old Snowy. Photo: Richard Caldwell. Sam O’Leary (8) and Craig Martin keeping everyone smiling! Photo: Bob Murphy. Helen Fick (12), Hyacinth Fick (9) and Judith Baker. Photo: Craig Martin. Jadzia (6) and James Jula. Photo: Bob Murphy. George Cummings, Kyla Martin (6), Craig Martin, Nicole Martin and Kaleb Martin (10). Photo: Justin Rotherham.
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September 2013—25
Go Hiking! HK A2 Sep 01 (Sun) Wahclella and Elowah Falls. Terry Lawson lawson. terry@gmail.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. We will take two separate short hikes to visit both Elowah and Wahclella Falls in the gorge. E-mail leader to reserve a spot. 4.8 miles 900 ft. Dr. 60 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK A1.5 Sep 02 (Mon) Tualatin River National Wildlife Refuge. Bill Middleton 503-816-0549. We will walk twice around the urban wildlife refuge hopefully seeing various types of animals.6 miles flat ft. Dr. 20. Meet at the refuge parking lot. Tri-Met 94 stops 7 a.m. This will the last chance to walk the trail before it closes for the winter. Leader treat preference: any 6 miles flat ft. Dr. 20 Meet at refuge 7 a.m. HK B2 Sep 04 (Wed) Bald MountainRamona Falls Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness– Limit 12. This loop starts at Bald Mountain, descends via the PCT to connect up with the pretty stretch of the Ramona Creek trail to Ramona Falls and then returns to Bald Mountain on the Timberline Trail. There are stream crossings where hiking poles and either water shoes or sandals may be useful. E-mail leader to reserve a spot. 10.6 miles 1,900 ft. Dr. 92 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK C2 Sep 07 (Sat) Barrett Spur (Vista Trail). Kurt Hiland kurthikes@ msn.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. Reach out and touch the Coe Glacier from this high perch on Mt. Hood’s north side. Along the way, see the recovery in progress from the 2011 Dollar Lake fire 11.5 miles 3,550 ft. Dr. 140 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Sep 08 (Sun) Herman Creek Bridge-PCT. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. This hike uses a car shuttle. It starts on the Herman Creek Bridge trail and follows it to join the final Oregon piece of the PCT past Pacific Crest Falls to Cascade Locks. E-mail leader to reserve a spot. 6.1 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 100 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Sep 08 (Sun) Serene Lake Loop. Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. Wilderness–Limit 12. Seven Lakes and Five Volcanoes! Long-ish but not too tough loop through the Roaring River Wilderness, starting at Hideaway Lake. We’ll visit all three Rock Lakes, Serene Lake, and Cache Meadow. 12.7 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 134 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Sep 08 (Sun) Hunchback Mtn. (Great Pyramid). David Nelson 503657-4058. Wilderness–Limit 12. Will start hiking from the Zigzag Ranger Station. Steady elevation gain at first to great viewpoint. We’ll keep hiking
26 —Mazama Bulletin
along a ridge that has several more view options and ends at the “Great Pyramid” which juts out above the Salmon River Valley. First come, first served up to the Wilderness limit at Gateway. 9 miles 3,060 ft. Dr. 76 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Sep 11 (Wed) Horsetail Ridge. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Wilderness–Limit 12. Short and steep— Up Horsetail Ridge to the trail, back down across Oneonta Creek and back to the cars. 8 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 55 MMC 8 a.m. HK A2 Sep 14 (Sat) Squaw Mountain—Tumala Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Wilderness– Limit 12. Short hike with solitude in close proximity to Portland. Great views of the Salmon Huckelberry Wilderness, south of Mount Hood. 4.4 miles 1020 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Sep 14 (Sat) Cape Horn. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. We can do the entire loop this time of year. Some flowers still around as well as stupendous views of the Gorge, especially at lunch on a cliff above the Columbia. This trail just keeps getting better! 7 miles 1,550 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B1.5 Sep 15 (Sun) Indian Heaven (Thomas/Junction/Blue). Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. No pre-registration. Loop hike past lakes and meadows, including Thomas, Rock, Blue and Junction Lakes. 11 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 148 TH Lewis and Clark St. Park paved lot 8 a.m. HK B2 Sep 15 (Sun) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). Marilyn Zigler 503-515-8019. Wilderness–Limit 12. We’ll take an easy pace on the most popular and magnificent trail in the Gorge. Pass spectacular waterfalls, tall basalt cliffs, footbridges, streams and through the tunnel behind the falls to our lunch spot. Email mszhike@gmail. com to reserve a spot. 12.6 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Sep 15 (Sun) Observation Peak (from Gov’t Mineral Springs). Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. This isn’t a highly traveled trail and is a favorite of those who like to see some very big trees. It has a great view if weather permits and at least one waterfall. It is a great way to spend a September Sunday. 13.3 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 116 TH MMC 7:30 a.m. HK A1 Sep 21 (Sat) Mountaineer Trail. Ray Sheldon 360-574-0221. After regrouping at the Wyeast Day Lodge, we will hike past Timberline Lodge to the actual TH. A fairly easy grade will take us to the junction with the
Contact Trail Trips Committee chair is Jim Selby at selbyjb@comcast.net with any questions. To lead a hike in October, log on to the Trails Trips website at http:// www.mazamas2.org. Note: “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area, and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader.
PCT. The trail then steepens Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our as we travel leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after through open the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location glades and may change due to conditions, so please visit tinyurl. wind battered com/mazamahikeschedule. timber. When AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) we reach the offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate Magic Mile list at http://tinyurl.com/mazamaaym. Ski Lift we will cross over to Silcox derness limit at Gateway. 8.2 miles Hut for lunch. Then it’s all downhill to Timberline. 3,200 ft. Dr. 84 TH Gateway 8 a.m. Being above timberline, be prepared HK B2 Sep 25 (Wed) Table Rockfor weather extremes. 2.7 miles 1,080 Rooster Rock. Rex Breunsbach 971ft. Dr. 130 Gateway 7:30 a.m. 832-2556. Wilderness–Limit 12. This Table and Rooster Rock are not in the HK C2.5 Sep 21 (Sat) Coldwater Peak. Gary Bishop gbish90@hotmail.com. Gorge, but near the Molalla River in the Bull-of-the-Woods area. Features Wilderness–Limit 12. A view-filled great views of mountains north and hike in the Mount St. Helens Volcanic south and unique rock formations. 10 Monument. We’ll start at the Johnston miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 130 MMC 8 a.m. Ridge Observatory ($8 per person fee) and head east along the ridge with HK A1.5 Sep 28 (Sat) Steigerwald ever-more impressive views of Mount NWS. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. ObviSt. Helens and eventually Spirit Lake. ously this is a walk in the park near Then we head north passing by St. Washougal, WA. But wildlife is plentiHelens Lake before heading to the top ful, especially all types of birds, many of Coldwater Peak (5723 ft.). (Sign up of whom are headed South. We should at Gateway TC only.) 12.2 miles 2,000 see many eagles and ospreys; a Boy ft. Dr. 210 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. Scout troop saw 38 different birds here in late September last year. Very hikeHK C2 Sep 22 (Sun) Devil’s Peak Lookout (Cool Creek). David Nelson able in rainy weather as well. 5 miles 503-657-4058. Wilderness–Limit 12. 100 ft. Dr. 30 Gateway 8:30 a.m. This hike offers a great work out. We HK B2 Sep 28 (Sat) Indian Racetrack. will hike up the Cool Creek trail to the Wayne Lincoln 503-245-9193. Wilold fire lookout. Have lunch, explore derness–Limit 12. Easy paced hike the lookout and enjoy the views before with lake and meadow views. We will hiking back down. Great views of Mt. enter off Road 65 on the West side of Hood, Mt. Adams and Mt. Jefferson. First come, first served up to the Wilcontinued on next page
Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule. Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI in the Pearl. Rambles start promptly at 6 p.m. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 ft. and meet at REIPearl NW 14th and Johnson 6 p.m. Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down to get fit for climbs/ hiking this spring and summer, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 ft Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark) 6 p.m.
Trail Trips, continued from page 28 Indian Heaven, hike trail 111 through meadows and past numerous lakes to Blue Lake and thence south on the PCT Trail to the racetrack and finish at the Falls Creek Horse Camp on trail 171. Car shuttle. Contact leader to reserve place on wilderness hike. 9 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 140 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK C2 Sep 28 (Sat) Larch Mt—Franklin Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556. Wilderness–Limit 12. Magnifying Glass Loop. We will start at Multnomah Falls, climb to Sherrard Point, then down the Bell Creek Trail, connect up to Franklin Ridge and back down to the cars. 16 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8 a.m.
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory . Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed.
HK B1.5 Sep 29 (Sun) Indian Heaven (Placid/Bear/Deep). Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. No preregistration. Loop hike up Chenamus Lake Trail to Deep Lake, return on Placid Lake Trail. 11 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 150 TH Gateway 8 a.m.
• • • • • •
HK C1.5 Sep 29 (Sun) Elk-Kings Traverse. Paul Gerald 971-2272059. Coast Range Thigh Buster! Now that it’s cooling off, let’s go tackle the beast of the Coast Range. We’ll go up Elk and down Kings, then back on the Wilson River Trail—all in a nice, easy pace. 11 miles 4,600 ft. Dr. 66 Target/185th 8:30 a.m.
HK=Hike; SR=Street Ramble; R=Run; BP=Backpack; TT=Trail Tending; RP=Restoration Project; W=Wilderness area–limited to a maximum of 12 persons; SS=Snowshoes; NS=Cross Country Ski.
Backpacks
Goat Rocks Wilderness: Sept 4–6, 2013 See web schedule or August Bulletin for more information. To get more information and/ or to apply, contact Tom Davidson (tedclimbs@gmail.com). NEW: Wallowas Backpack and Peak Summits: Sept 16–19, 2013 See web schedule or August bulletin for more information. To apply, send an email to Tom Davidson (tedclimbs@gmail.com).
1 = 1 mph: slow, easy pace 1.5 = 1.5 mph: moderately easy pace 2 = 2 mph: moderate pace 2.5 = 2.5 mph: moderately fast pace 3 = 3 mph: fast conditioning pace; 3.5 = 3.5 mph: very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.
Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; SalmonCreek P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Park-
rose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P&R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dogwalks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. See hike write-ups for particulars of pace, trail conditions, mileage and elevation gain. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty. Hikes are classified into general categories; contact leader for further details.
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Mazama Election Info Larry Beck member since 2006 Mazama Committee Experience: None. Mazama Activities and Volunteer Participation: Provisional climb leader, 2013; BCEP team co–leader, 2013; ICS instructor, 2011–13; Youth Rock Climbing program instructor, 2013; BCEP instructor 2009–12; Crevasse Rescue skill builder instructor, 2011–13; ICS grad, 2010–11; BCEP grad, 2006; Mazama Lodge volunteer. 2009–13; Used gear sale volunteer, 2011–13; BCEP front desk volunteer 2010–12; MFA student and instructor, 2013; Downhill telemark skiing student, 2010; published author in the Mazama Annual (2012) and Mazama Bulletin (2011) Leadership, Board, or Committee Experience in Other Organizations: Former board member and officer, Corbett– Terwilliger–Lair Hill Neighborhood Association (now South Portland NA); Officer and director for neighborhood lobbying group, No Tram to OHSU; Officer and director, Wilson High School Girls Lacrosse Skills: Civil private practice attorney licensed to practice in Oregon (1986) and Washington (1987) in state and federal courts Occupation: Attorney with a solo general civil practice emphasizing Adoptions and other Family Law; Estate Administration and Planning; Litigation; Real Estate transactions and litigation; Business Personal Statement: I joined the Mazamas in 2006 after completing BCEP. My involvement in the Mazamas to date has been focused on climbing education programs both as a student and as an instructor. I am currently working through Leader Development as a provisional climb leader and look forward to being a full climb leader soon. I have benefited greatly from these programs and am doing my best to give back. I have found a home in the Mazamas and have made many new friends and acquaintances. I recognize that our organization would not exist and continue to prosper without those of us committed to it giving back. I can and am willing to do more and so would be honored to serve on the executive council if elected. I believe I work well as part of a group, but can also take the initiative and work on my own or in a leadership capacity to get things done. I do not have a large ego and pride by myself on being able to get along with just about everyone. If elected (and even if not!) I would like to see
28 —Mazama Bulletin
the Mazamas focus on the following: • Providing more opportunities for members and their young children to remain active in the Mazamas so we so not lose the vibrant energy that these members bring to the club • Expanding the offerings for new skill builder classes such as the recently added ice climbing (2012) and intermediate snow climbing (2013) classes • Continuing to improve our core educational programs like BCEP, ICS, AR and ASI so the Mazamas will maintain our role as Oregon’s primary mountaineering education and conservation organization I thank you for your support and look forward to a long and productive future with the Mazamas.
Heather Campbell member since 1999 Mazama Committee Experience: Executive Council, 2010–2011; BCEP Committee, 2008–2011; ICS Committee, 2010– 2011; Climbing Committee, 2008–2009; Education Committee, BCEP, 2009–2010; Conservation Committee, 2000– 2002 (Chair 2001–2002); Access Committee, 2002–2004 (Chair, 2003–2004); Capital Campaign Advisory Task Force, various roles, 2005–2008; Community Relations Committee, 2004–2007(Chair 2006–2007); Mazama Representative on Cooper Spur Wild & Free Coalition, 2002–2004 and Restore Mt. Hood Coalition, 2008–2011; 2002 Montague Cup recipient. Mazama Activities and Volunteer Participation: Climb Leader; 2010 BCEP Coordinator; BCEP Leader since 2009 and assistant since 2000; ICS Instructor since 2004; Summer Rock and skill builder instructor; AR instructor; Graduate of BCEP, ICS, AR, Expedition Training, and ASI, plus numerous skill builders. Leadership, Board, or Committee Experience in Other Organizations: For Us Northwest, Board Member, 2004–2007; Opal Creek Advisory Council (Federal Appointment), 2005–2007. Skills: Project Management, strategic planning, vision statements, fundraising, grant writing, marketing, event planning, media and public relations, budgeting, public speaking, grassroots organizing, negotiating, relationship building, drafting policy, volunteer coordination, and leadership. Occupation: Network Real Estate Manager for Verizon Wireless
Executive Council Candidate Statements Personal Statement: I have been a Mazama member since 1999 after taking BCEP and summitting a glaciated peak. Since BCEP, I have climbed mountains, scrambled up rock, and shimmied my way up ice. Through the Mazamas, I have had incredible climbing experiences, made many friends, and have grown both professionally and as a person. I enjoy being engaged in an organization that changes so many lives and whose members give so much. The Mazamas has grown and changed a lot since I joined. I have great respect for our current leadership and support the direction our climbing organization is taking. We are offering unprecedented opportunities for members to develop their skills and physical fitness and take their climbing to many new levels. We are developing strategic relationships with key partners in the climbing community and offering our climbing facilities and instruction to the general public. We continue to support and offer our leadership to protect the places where we play. These are all directions I fully support and would advocate for as a Council member. I wish to serve on Executive Council again for the same reasons as before: I like giving back to an organization whose members volunteer thousands of hours to teach, lead, mentor, and continue the vitality of the Mazamas. My skills and experience are well matched to contribute to the long term viability of the Mazamas as a well–respected organization committed to climbing, climbing education, and the preservation and conservation of the places we climb.
Kate Evans member since 1994 Mazama Committee Experience: Nordic 2000–2003; Publications 2004–2007 (chair 2007); Trails 2007– 2009 (chair ‘09); Conservation 2011– present. Mazama Activities and Volunteer Participation: Hardesty Cup 2011, hike leader since 1996, Sixteen Peaks Award 2002, assistant climb leader, BCEP assistant, Intermediate Climbing School; 1995–1996, Mountaineering First Aid 1996, Advanced Snow and Ice 2001; 2007, Ski Mountaineering 2004, Advanced Rock 2005, Intermediate Cross Country, Backcountry Skiing, Telemark (many times); numerous Mazama outings; tree planting; trail tending, and articles in the Bulletin and the Annual. Leadership, Board, or Committee Experience
in Other Organizations: As an English Instructor at Portland Community College Rock Creek, I was the lead instructor and program manager for PCC’s Professional and Technical Communication Certificate Program. I also coordinated the week–long Art Beat celebration at Rock Creek for over 20 years. Skills: Education and training, planning and managing programs, negotiating, excellent verbal and written communication skills, empathetic and active listening, public speaking, research skills, tact, and a sense of humor Occupation: Retired English Instructor at PCC Rock Creek Personal Statement: Since 1994 I have been climbing, hiking, skiing, taking classes, and participating in domestic and international outings with the Mazamas. I have received so much from the organization–– adventures, friendships, joy (and some pain and suffering), so I want to give back. I wish to move from serving on the Conservation Committee to serving on the Executive Council.
Walter Keutel
member since 2009 Mazama Committee Experience: Conservation Committee (2010– Present); Volunteer Task Force (2012– Present) Mazama Activities and Volunteer Participation: Provisional climb leader since June 2013; ICS/BCEP assistant; used gear sale volunteer; organized Mazama tree planting events Leadership, Board, or Committee Experience in Other Organizations: None. Skills: I approach challenges and tasks with an independent, open mind in order to find the best solutions. I have run my own business successfully for over 20 years and am used to working reliably, diligently and cooperatively to meet deadlines and reach goals. Occupation: Freelance translator since 1992 As a lifelong conservationist I believe in Personal Statement: protecting wild environments, and as a member In my five years as a member, the Mazamas of the Executive Council I would strongly have become a great passion in my life. I have advocate for conservation causes. I also have been progressively more involved and I believe a passion for stewardship of the Mazama heritage, archives, and traditions. We have been that I have gained a strong understanding of the challenges, tasks and opportunities that lie a premiere montaineering organization since 1894 and must continue to be so. We also must ahead. I fully support the goals and priorities listed in retain our focus on safety in all classes and the Mazamas’ Strategic Plan particularly with activities. In addition I believe in responsible regard to: and fiscally prudent innovation and growth. • Expanding our membership. As a council member, I would work to attract younger members and more families to • Broadening volunteer involvement. Mazamas with classes, lodge activities, and • Participating in conservation–based more community outreach, while still honoring initiatives and activities. older members. We also need to recognize and As a vibrant organization with a strong support our many hard working volunteers reputation, I believe the Mazamas have an and to respect the decisions of our committees. obligation to support and preserve the outdoor I would work toward achieving more variety places we all enjoy. At times, this may mean in the climb schedule, more women climb that we must be willing to adopt positions in leaders, increased estate planning, more favor of long–term viability or preservation funding and support for archives and research, over short–term recreational purposes. This, conservation and expedition grants, and better of course, can lead to controversial or even communication between the Council and the contentious positions within our organization. members through the Bulletin, blog, and Web Decisions on important issues need to be site. An example would be updates on the based on a thorough understanding of often proposed lodge parking lot. diverging views, listening carefully to opposing My PCC teaching and program management arguments and working together towards a experience, passion for the Mazamas, and solution. Although there are areas where I experience with all areas of the organization have firm convictions based on my experience through my cimbing, hiking, skiing, outings, and knowledge, I don’t hesitate to adopt classes, four different committees, and other an approach that differs from my own, if volunteer work make me a strong candidate for reasonable, respectful arguments are presented. the Mazama Executive Council. I feel it is important to work toward middle– ground and to negotiate difficult issues in a way that benefits both the Mazamas and the Please note: Executive Council Candidate information has been standardized to fit a certain format, however no editing has been done. Other than some simple formatting, the information is provided exactly as submitted by the candidates/members.
outdoor environments we enjoy. This approach will strengthen our standing and standards as a mountaineering organization that places equal importance on hiking, climbing and education, alongside preserving our environment for future generations. If elected, I will focus on expanding the reach of the Mazamas in our community, on strengthening current programs and developing future activities with a specific focus on attracting younger hikers and climbers. I view participation on the EC as a valuable opportunity to work towards building new understandings and forging productive relationships with stakeholders both within the Mazamas and in the greater outdoor community.
Amy Mendenhall member since 2003 Mazama Committee Experience: Climb Committee ad hoc Leader Development Group (helping to revamp the Leader Development program) Mazama Activities and Volunteer Participation: Assisted yearly with BCEP (2005–2012); Mazama Climb Leader (2012 to present); Leader of BCEP group (co–lead) 2013 Leadership, Board, or Committee Experience in Other Organizations: Rotary Club of Sherwood: Chair of International Committee (2010– 2012); Rotary Club of Sherwood: Youth Exchange Chair (2009– present); Member of Institutional Review Board (IRB) at Oregon College of Oriental Medicine (2007–present) Skills: • Small Business Owner (Sherwood Acupuncture). Primary acupuncturist in practice, supervise two employees and conduct all billing and accounting for the business. • Involvement in yearly fundraiser in Rotary Club of Sherwood (signage/marketing) • Have been giving presentations 1–2 times a month on mountaineering to regional Rotary and Kiwanis clubs for the past 6 months. Occupation: Licensed Acupuncturist. Small Business Owner (Sherwood Acupuncture). Personal Statement: As a ten year member of this club and now as a climb leader, I feel honored to have been nominated to run for Executive Council. I’m ready to take on a more active role in maintaining the legacy of
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September 2013—29
candidate statements, continued from previous page the Mazamas. I’ve had the opportunity to see the positive changes made through this organization’s strategic plan over the past 10 years. The quality of our educational programs has increased exponentially, our membership has grown, and our credibility in the mountaineering community has positively changed. In order to grow our membership and ensure the future of the Mazamas, I believe that engaging a young population in our core activities is vital. I look forward to supporting outreach opportunities to youth. Volunteers are the key to the continuation of this club’s mission to run educational programs, a lodge, and the many activities the Mazamas offer. I support a continued focus on volunteer resources. This includes encouraging current members to contribute their talents and fine–tuning the climb leader development program in an effort to create more leadership opportunities. As a successful small business owner, I understand the need for fiscal responsibility and long term planning for survival. My experience managing my acupuncture practice and employees for the past 8 years is an asset when contributing to Council decisions involving the foundation and grant allocation. Goals: I plan to continue to be involved in the fine–tuning of the leader development
program. I would like to help develop an outreach plan to youth organizations and ensure involvement of youth in club activities. I will continue to embrace the courses taught by the Mazamas and support their growth and refinement. As a native to this area, and as a climb leader in this club, I’m proud to be carrying on the traditions of a group started over 100 years ago. It would be my honor to help in the decision–making processes that continue this legacy.
John Rettig member since 1999 Mazama Committee Experience: Conservation Committee, 2005– present (Chair/ Co-Chair, 2006– present); Governing Documents Committee (formerly Bylaws Committee), 2010–present (Chair, 2011– present); Nominating Committee, 2010–2013. Mazama Activity and Volunteer Participation: BCEP (1999); BCEP Assistant Instructor, 2002–2013 (most years); ICS (2003–2004);
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Sixteen Major Peaks Award (2012); Parker Cup Award (2012). Board and/or Committee Experience in Other Organizations (business or non profit): Multnomah County Planning Commissioner, appointed by the Board of County Commisioners (1998–present); Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs (2012–present, Secretary and Executive Committee); Forest Part Neighborhood Association, 1988–2000 (Secretary 1992–94, President, 1994–97) Skills: My diverse board and committee experiences give me a wide range of skills that are well-suited to being a director for the Mazamas. I am a collaborator who builds consensus on the boards and committees that I have served. I am also known to take principled stands on important issues. I have worked in different capacities within multiple Mazama committees for eight years, and I understand our committee structures and the importance of their functions within the Mazamas organization. I was awarded the Parker cup in 2012 for leading the modernization of our Bylaws. The overwhelming vote of approval by the members of the simplified and legally-accurate Bylaws gave me great pride in our organization and its future. Occupation: Engineer at Tektronix, Beaverton, 33 years. I design high frequency circuits for test and measurement instruments that Tektronix is positioned as a world leader. Personal Statement: Mazamas have opened up a whole new world of outdoor experiences for me. I am appreciative of all the activities I’ve participated in, all that I’ve learned, the friends I’ve made, and the personal growth I’ve experienced. The Mazamas are on a positive growth trajectory for the foreseeable future. A primary challenge is that of addressing this growth and all the changes it will drive – staffing, budgets, activities, operations, and more. All this must be done while still retaining our core values as a remarkable non–profit mountaineering organization. Having people with needed skills and experience on council will be critical to our success. I will work hard to guide the growth to the highest benefit of the Mazamas and our community while protecting our values. I will do my best to represent members – they are the heart of our organization and they expect their directors to serve them well, be responsible, follow the rules, allow transparency, and make wise decisions. I am eager to be part of this future. Thank you for your vote.
Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Doug Couch, President; Bronson Potter, Vice President; Meg Goldberg, Secretary; Sojo Hendrix, Bill McLoughlin, Joan Zuber; Lee Davis, Executive Director. Absent: Terry Donahe, Treasurer,; Judith Baker, Dyanne Foster Doug Couch called the meeting to order at 6:35 p.m. Review of the 990, Menagerie discussion and Climb Committee added to the agenda. The minutes of the July 9, 2013 meeting minutes were approved as corrected that under Unfinished Business should read Jeff Flood Lift. Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg. There were 14 applications for membership. Total membership as of July 31, 2013 is 3,320. This is an increase of 137 members since last year this time. Treasurer’s Report: Written report submitted by Terry Donahe. Report filed for audit. Executive Director’s Report: Oral report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available for membership in the Mazama Bulletin. Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted • Conservation • Education • Lodge • Nominating • Publications The reports were unanimously approved and received on the consent agenda. Bill McLoughlin moves to accept the reports on the consent agenda including acceptance
of Bob Stayton as new chair for Lodge Committee and Bob Breivogel as co-chair with Barry Maletzky for Publications and changes to the style guide. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: passed. Committees with no reports submitted • CIDT • Library • Programs • Research Regular Committee Reports Governing Documents. John Rettig, Chair of Governing Documents requested approval of eight new policy and procedures (P&P). The eight new policy and procedures are an index of P&P, age requirement, pet limitations, firearms limitations, including the release from liability in P&P, use of substances, leader responsibilities for problem activity participants and fatality policy. Sojo moves to accept the new P&P. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved. Governing Documents request action on deletion of old Pets, Firearms, Alcohol and Age Limit Policy. Bronson moves to delete old policy. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved. Unfinished Business Smith Rock Open House Plan: Lee Davis reports that there are two planning sessions scheduled on August 14 and August 21 for the open house on August 28. There will be tables set up with different topics for members to learn more about the Smith Rock project. New Business Discussion of American Alpine Club (AAC) discounted/ joint membership and Access Fund relationship. Lee is looking into different To learn more about the responsibilities and skills needed opportunities to work in conjunction with the AAC for Executive Council members, such as joint membership go to http://tinyurl.com/ and other opportunities to
MazamaCouncilInfo.
Aug. 13, 2013
retain membership in Mazamas. 3rd Quarter Reforecast and 2013/2014 Budget Proposal/ Capital Projects Review: Lee reported that the 3rd Quarter Reforecast looks good. The draft budget includes the expanded staff structure we’re working under now, all of the planned capital maintenance on the MMC and the Lodge with the exception of costs for staining the decks on the lodge. Lee is recommending that that we ask volunteers to do this or we defer to the next fiscal year. The bottom line for next fiscal year in the draft budget is at -$24K. This is intentional because it lines up with the volunteer management plan metrics. Capital projects still need to be added into the budget as well as asking the foundation if they will be increasing their funding. Lee reported that the draft does not include capital project “ideas” that need further discussion before including in any budget. Some of these project ideas are: • Continued costs (likely reimbursed by the foundation) in the year ahead relating to Smith Rock • Lodge parking lot • True improvements to the lodge or MMC (yurts, moving walls at the MMC to make more and bigger classrooms, etc.) • Kati’s Encore Fellow proposal for Strategic Planning • Continued expansion and improvements to the Bulletin The draft also does not include IT investments/ improvements. The server concern brought to EC last month is real, but there are several ways of deferring and spreading out these costs beyond just doing a one-off capital investment. This may be an item for discussion at EC’s fall retreat.
Staff Goals: Information given to EC for review and for discussion next month. Form 990 Review: The draft of the Form 990 was reviewed by EC. There were a couple of questions for Lee to ask the auditor. Otherwise the form is ready to be filed. Dues Renewal/Election Process/EC Retreat Schedule: Lee reported that the Annual Election and Dues Renewal mailing will be in early September. The Annual Meeting is Monday, Oct. 7, 2013 at the MMC and includes the election of the new Executive Council. Climb Committee: As directed by the Executive Council, the Climbing Committee and Trail Trips each appointed three members to participate in a joint task force to develop and approve a policy on the distinction between a climb and a hike. Climbing Committee requests that council appoint a member from EC to be on the task force. Meg Goldberg is appointed to be the EC member. In addition there will be a member from Risk Management on the committee as well as office staff. Menagerie: Lee will work with Joan Zuber on the response to the BLM’s potential closure of areas in and around the Menagerie due to peregrine nesting. Special Meeting Notice: Due to the Annual Meeting scheduled on Oct. 7 and the EC meeting Oct. 8 the EC meeting for Oct. 2013 will take place immediately following the Annual Meeting on Oct. 7, 2013 at the MMC. Meeting adjourned at 8:35 p.m. Executive Council went into Executive Session Next Executive Council Meeting: Tuesday, Sept.10, 2013 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.
September 2013—31
Nov. 11–16 P o r tla n d A lp in e Fe s t13 20
Presenting sponsor
Lead sponsor
Supporting sponsor
Schedule of Events
Nov. 11–Veterans Day Celebration Movie–High Ground Nov. 13–First Ascents & Alpine Achievements John Frieh Presentation Nov. 14–Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation Fundraiser An Evening with Conrad Anker, Jenni Anker-Lowe, Margot Talbot & Will Gadd Nov. 15 (Day)–Clinics Will Gadd & Margot Talbot Nov. 15 (Evening)– Mazama Annual Celebration Cocktail Party Margot Talbot Presentation Conrad Anker Presentation Nov. 16–PDX Ice Festival Competition Fundraiser for Hyalite Canyon w/ Will Gadd & Margot Talbot
Portland Alpine Fest tickets on sale Sept. 1 at www.mazamas.org Andrew Holman and I climbed Mt. Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys the weekend of Aug. 16 and this was one of the few views we had. The rest was a whiteout. In this photo we had just climbed up Winnie’s Slide and Andrew is looking at the Upper Curtis Glacier and scoping out the route. Photo: Jason Lee