Vogue Patterns Magazine December 2014/January 2015 Sampler

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

THE BEST OF THE SEASON! DONNA KARAN BADGLEY MISCHKA TOM & LINDA PLATT PAMELLA ROLAND BELLVILLE SASSOON TRACY REESE ANNE KLEIN REBECCA TAYLOR DKNY

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015

FREE PATTERN OFFER SEE PAGE 87 FOR DETAILS

TOOLS OF THE TRADE:

IRONS, IRONING BOARDS & PRESSING ACCESSORIES

FABRIC SHOPPING in PORTLAND

VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

SAMPLER

Vogue Patterns December 2014/January 2015

FEATURES

16 The Curvy Sewing Collective A diverse group of women brought together by their common interest in sewing for the curvier-than-average person.

by Carolyn Norman

18 Fabric Finds in Portland An Oregonian city with a strong tradition of sewing and crafting is home to a fabulous assortment of fabric and notions stores.

by Christine Rulli

24 Irons and Ironing Boards A guide to the newest and best features of irons and ironing boards for home sewing.

by Linda Griepentrog

34 The Perfect Patch Pocket How to produce neat, identical patch pockets with a simple factory-inspired technique.

by Marcy Tilton

38 Pressing Accessories A selection of tools to help you get into tight corners, create smooth curves, avoid unwanted shine, and ensure a crisp finish.

by Linda Griepentrog

ON THE COVER A cozy hooded wrap coat, V9069, Misses’ XS (4-6)— XXL (24-26). Necklace: Extasia. Gloves: Carolina Amato. Hair and makeup by Joseph Boggess.

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FASHION

IN EVERY ISSUE

44 Designers: The Best of the Season

6 Editor’s Letter

From all-out eveningwear, to classic tailored dresses, there’s something for every occasion.

8 What Are You Sewing?

10 Must-Haves 12 Star Blogger 14 Web Watch

54 Easy Chic Luxurious fabrics transform everyday designs into elegant evening styles.

62 Little Vogue Make your little girl feel like a princess.

64 Simple Luxuries Great pieces that take you from day to evening.

68 Artful Creations

RESOURCES

84 Guide to Pattern and Fabric Requirements 89 Body Measurement Charts 90 Shop & Sew Marketplace 96 Fabric and Accessory Guide

Marcy Tilton’s new collection of coats, tops and skirts.

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74 Vintage Vogue Authentic reproductions from the ‘40s and ‘50s.

76 Key Pieces Classic tailored elements in seasonal fabrics.

80 Today’s Fit Two new Sandra Betzina styles with her signature flair.

82 Finishing Touches The perfect accessories for the well-dressed man.

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DESTINATION SHOPPING

mission of uniting these gems with the right owner. Purchase or bring your own fabric and these artists will painstakingly help you to select the ideal buttons and trims. Marvis also prides herself on teaching shoppers how to use buttons and embellishments to breathe fresh life into an old garment or thrift store purchase. This shop is a must for all crafters, sewers, and quilters.

Rose City Textiles

Fabric Finds in Portland

BY CHRISTINE RULLI

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Located right in the heart of downtown, the Button Emporium and Ribbonry is an eclectic world filled with petite treasures. They have thousands of buttons to choose from, whether you favor heirloom sewing, period costume re-cre-

18 VOGUE PATTERNS

Portland, OR 97210 (503) 224-5666 fabricline.com Hours: Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm; Saturday 10am to 4pm

ortland, Oregon is a small city bursting with creativity. Widely recognized for its thriving food and drink culture and “outdoorsy” locals, the city also abounds with visual and performing arts and has a rich appreciation for handcrafted goods of all types.

In accordance with the drizzly local climate, Portland’s garment scene is strongly oriented toward performance and outdoor clothing, and has spawned industry giants such as Jantzen, White Stag, Pendleton, and Columbia Sportswear. The Portland area is also the “silicon valley” of the sport shoe industry, home to the US headquarters of Adidas and the world headquarters of Nike (which originated two hours south of Portland, at the University of Oregon track department).

But don’t think performance gear is all you’ll find here—while Portland has plenty to offer for outerwear enthusiasts, its strong tradition of home sewing and craft makes it a gold mine for discerning fabric shoppers of all kinds. In addition to well-curated local boutiques, you’ll find super-sized independent stores packed with treasures, an assortment of niche outlets, and even top-notch designer textiles. An extra perk: no sales tax in Oregon!

Button Emporium & Ribbonry 1016 SW Taylor Street Portland, OR 97205 (503) 228-6372 buttonemporium.com Hours: Tuesday through Friday 10:30am to 5:30pm; Saturday 11am to 3pm

2515 NW Nicolai Street

ation, or just adding a fine, personal touch to new or existing garments.

Take a moment to peruse their button gallery full of precious metals, porcelain, bone, hand-etched natural shells, wood, antique Satsuma buttons from Japan, Damascene buttons from Spain, and elegant cameos. They also carry some fabrics and fine laces, as well as a huge supply of embroidery silks, European jacquard trims, and beautiful ribbons both classic and contemporary. You’ll receive highly personalized service from owners Marvis and Keith, who make a

Rose City Textiles, located in the industrial section of northwest Portland, has been in business for over 30 years and specializes in quality outerwear and activewear fabrics. The pride and joy of this store is a huge—no, really huge— selection of performance and all-weather fabrics, including nylon lycra®, waxed cottons, moisturewicking jersey, poly-microfibers, fleece, ripstop, neoprene, and on and on. Environmentally conscious crafters will appreciate the selection of organic and recycled fibers.

They even carry notions and trims

Button Emporium and Ribbonry

Bolt

Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 10am to 6pm;

Josephine’s Dry Goods 3050 SE Division Street

Thursday 12pm to 8pm; Sunday 12pm to 5pm.

Portland, OR 97202 (503) 224-4202

Thread your way south to the vi-

www.josephinesdrygoods.com Hours: Monday through Saturday

brant Hawthorne District and you’ll find Cool Cottons, an independent fabric boutique housed in a charm-

11am to 6pm; Sunday 12pm to 5pm

Saturday 10am to 5pm

ing 1911 home. The focus here is on modern prints in bold shades, suit-

Portland sewers mourned when this downtown institution shut

varieties. The staff is knowledgeable and enthusiastic about their

Stop in here for an inspiring collection of interior decorating fabrics,

able for quilting, crafting, sewing, and collecting. Some of their favor-

its doors in 2013. Fortunately for connoisseurs of fine garment

unique offerings, and they’ll send swatches anywhere in the US and

trims, and custom furniture. They stock over a thousand fabrics

ite designers are Alexander Henry, Art Gallery, Birch Organics, Cloud

fabrics, it has now reopened in a bright, compact space on SE

Canada within 48 hours. Goods are offered at both retail and

including chenilles, tapestries, jacquards, silks, sheers, and velvets,

9 Organics, Free Spirit, Kokka, Michael Miller, Moda, Robert Kaufman

Division. New owners Bini and Dana Leach have worked with

wholesale prices, depending on how much you need.

and also offer special orders from their collection of fabric samples.

and Westminster Fabrics. They are especially proud of their selection

Judith Head, previous owner of some 37 years, to ensure that

Bolt

You’ll be blown away by the variety of their whimsical and clas-

of Japanese cotton imports. You’ll find whimsical Matryoshka doll

the new location continues in the top-tier tradition of the old.

2136 NE Alberta Street Portland, OR 97211 (503) 287-BOLT boltneighborhood.com Hours: Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm; Saturday 10am to 5pm; Sunday 11am to 4pm

sical trims and tassels. The store features an in-house workroom, and you can have furniture built from scratch. The parking lot is a convenient bonus! View their blog and website for sample projects that show off the ingenuity of their design department.

This fresh, contemporary Alberta Arts District shop packs a lot of punch for a small store. Bolt offers a highly curated selection of fabrics, notions, books, patterns, and supplies “that will bring

Cool Cottons 2417 SE Hawthorne Boulevard Portland, OR 97214 (503) 232-0417 coolcottons.biz Hours: Monday, Tuesday,

prints, multiple “Frieda” patterns, an assortment of seaside-themed goods, vintage camping prints, architectural designs, and even “pinups.” Even if you come in without a project in mind, you may find yourself stocking up because the prints they carry are so darn cool! If you’re browsing from afar, viewing their “new arrivals” page will stimulate your creativity while bringing a smile to your face. This colorful fabric destination is very well organized and has personable staff.

Look for elegant suiting fabrics in wool and cashmere, printed and textured silks, linens, luxury blends, Japanese selvage denim, and a spectacular selection from Liberty of London. Prices can be formidable, but you’re paying for the best. Handwritten labels indicate the fiber content and width as well as the original designer where appropriate.

You’ll also find a select assortment of buttons and trims and high-quality notions from Merchant and Mills.

to finish your project, including silicone trim, reflective tape, and

Hours: Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm;

specialty zippers in reflective, water-resistant, and reversible-coil

your imagination to life in cloth and stitches.” The fabrics are attractively displayed on wooden shelves, and the knowledgeable

Rose City Textiles

staff will help guide you through selecting just the right items for your project. Bolt feels like a neighborhood shop, but the quality offerings also make it a destination for those looking for something special.

The Whole 9 Yards 1820 East Burnside Street Portland, OR 97214 (503) 223-2880 w9yards.com

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 19

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Irons and Ironing Boards

Arm yourself with the newest equipment to make your sewing easier and your projects more professional

BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG

P

ressing is an integral part of creating a great looking garment, and a good iron with lots of steam is an indispensible tool in the sewing room.

Every seam you stitch gets pressed at least twice (flat and then open or flat and then to one side), so your iron gets as much use as your sewing machine. There are dozens of standard household irons on the market, but for sewing and tailoring you need something extra.

Many features that are touted for taking the drudgery out of housework are not advantageous when sewing. Don’t be quick to pick up whatever iron is on the store shelf or on sale. Take your time to find the product that will have the features you need and want to get the best results possible. Here’s a guide to help you find the one that’s right for you.

The pressing surface, called the soleplate, comes in varying sizes and shapes depending on the iron brand and model. From mini craft irons that measure less than an inch to compact travel irons that fit in your suitcase to full-size household versions, there’s a size and shape for every need. But for the serious sewer, a full-size iron with a large soleplate is the best option.

While some brands advertise lightweight irons to entice sales, this is not always an advantage when sewing. Heavier irons are better for obtaining crisp pleats and creases and smoothing seams, so look for ones with some weight.

Next, look at the number and arrangement of steam holes on the soleplate. Configurations can vary from just a few steam vents around the edges to a well-surfaced 400 steam outlets.

Some irons with fewer steam holes offer a sole-

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plate with one or more recessed areas for trapping the steam vapor. An iron that steams in the upright vertical position as well as horizontal allows you to remove wrinkles from drapes and hanging garments. Steam holes that go into the tip are great for pressing hard-to-reach areas.

Iron tips come in a variety of shapes, and those marketed to sewers tend to be pointier and longer for reaching into corners. Oliso offers

an iron with a deep space between the soleplate and the iron itself—perfect for pressing pocket or collar edges.

Investigate the soleplate surface. Does it have a non-stick coating for quick clean-ups of fusible residue, or is it simply shiny metal to reflect heat? Soleplates can be coated with ceramic, titanium, or other non-stick coatings, or they can simply be stainless steel or aluminum. A

Soleplates 1 Oliso TG1050 2 Panasonic NI-C78SR 3 Panasonic NI-S200TS 4 Panasonic NI-WL600 Cordless 5 Reliable Velocity V200 6 Rowenta ProMaster

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 25

HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

DONNA KARAN

DESIGNERS BEST OF THE SEASON GO ALL-OUT THIS SEASON IN THE NEWEST DESIGNER EVENINGWEAR. LACE, SEQUINS, CLEVER CUTOUTS, AND MORE, JUST WAITING FOR YOUR BIG HOLIDAY BASH.

This page: Donna Karan brings us slinky sequins for when you want to turn up the heat. Asymmetrical draping captures the light in twinkling folds. V1427, Misses’ 6–22. Shoes: Donna Karan.

Next page: From Badgley Mischka, a sleek column in bold black and white. Cascading ounces highlight the just-daring-enough slit skirt. V1426, Misses’ 6–22. Earrings: Roberta Chiarella. Bracelet: RJ Graziano. Shoes: Nina. Handbag: Sondra Roberts. Gloves: Carolina Amato.

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BADGLEY MISCHKA

RICH FABRICS TURN SIMPLE SHAPES INTO EXTRAORDINARY FASHION PIECES THAT TAKE YOU FROM DAY TO EVENING.

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WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

GROOMING: JOSEPH BOGGESS

Previous page: The midnight blue suit in silk faille has a Custom Fit jacket, with separate pattern pieces for A, B, C and D cup, paired with straight-leg pants.

V9066, Misses’ 6–22. Ring: Sorrelli. Handbag: Sondra Roberts. Shoes: Carlos. This page: Shapely seaming gives the brocade dress its lovely t. V9050, Misses’ 6–22. Earrings and bracelet: Roberta Chiarella. Handbag: Urban Expressions.

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Every girl needs a special party dress, and g this one is just the thin r to use up scraps of you . rics fab t gan ele most ’ V9072, Children’s/Girls s.

Kid a Nin es: 3–8. Sho

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