Vogue Patterns Magazine April/May 2015 Sampler

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

SILVER SPRINGS THE HOTTEST COLOR OF THE SEASON

APRIL/MAY 2015

FREE PATTERN OFFER SEE PAGE 88

FOR DETAILS

TOOLS OF THE TRADE:

SERGER SENSE

PART 1 OF 4 BUYING GUIDE MASTER CLASS:

SEWING FINE KNITS

VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

SAMPLER

APRIL MAY FEATURES

19 Serger Sense, Part 1 of 4 A close look at what sergers do and why you need one of these essential machines in your sewing room.

by Beth Baumgartel

28 On Your Mark A quick and easy way to add color to your couture with Sharpies.

by Linda Griepentrog and Carol Bailey

34 Sewing SuperďŹ ne Sheer Knits Master instructions on how to work with delicate knit fabrics and the special construction challenges they offer.

by Kathryn Brenne

40 Pin Primer A guide to the vast array of sewing, crafting, and household pins that are available, and their unique purposes.

by Linda Griepentrog

2 VOGUE PATTERNS

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2015 FASHION

IN EVERY ISSUE

44 Ship Shape Style

6 Editor’s Letter

The new nauticals: timelesss silhouettes in classic shades of navy and white.

52 The Little White Dress It’s perfect for any occasion.

Looks great in everything from casual cotton to luxurious lace.

60 Silver Springs When the occasion calls for something special, it’s time to take out your best silver.

66 The New Shift Easy styles in pink and orange are an electric combination for spring.

8 What Are You Sewing?

10 Must-Haves 12 Star Blogger 14 Web Watch RESOURCES

84 Guide to Pattern and Fabric Requirements 89 Body Measurement Charts 90 Shop & Sew Marketplace 96 Fabric and Accessory Guide

70 Sweet Eyelet Chic This ladylike fabric gets a jolt of bold color.

76 Graphic Statements An easygoing wardrobe with five easy pieces.

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78 Shirttales A staple piece to sew in every color.

80 The Tilton Touch Katherine Tilton’s creative seaming in shirts and skirts.

ACCESSORY REPORT

32 From Nautical to Tropical The best ways to top off the season’s fashion trends.

53 ON THE COVER A luscious liquid-looking lamé. V8873, Misses’/Misses’ Petite 8-24. Earrings and bracelet: Zenzii. Hair and makeup by Joseph Boggess.

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APRIL/MAY 2015 3

MASTER INSTRUCTION

S

uperfine, sheer knits feel luxurious and are a dream to wear. But the characteristics that make them so appealing can make them a challenge to work with. Drapey and light translate to wiggly under the presser foot! But with a few tips and techniques you can learn how to control these challenging fabrics and stitch up a professional-looking garment.

To illustrate my methods for working with these luscious but potentially problematic fabrics, I created a top (modified V8877) that features a dark navy Italian viscose sheer knit with peek-a-boo sheer nylon mesh bands. Follow along as I guide you through the process of working with these deliciously delicate fabrics and creating a unique top.

FABRIC CONSIDERATIONS

34 VOGUE PATTERNS

V8

S/P

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PATTERNS

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JEWELRY: SWEET LOLA

BY KATHRYN BRENNE

SIZE / TAILLE

XS/TP

How to work with delicate fabrics that offer special construction challenges.

V8877

SIZES/TAILLES

Sewing SuperďŹ ne, Sheer Knits

When planning a garment from sheer fabric, consideration should be given to how it will be worn to allow for your preferred level of modesty. Solutions include layering a few garments over each other, wearing a pretty camisole underneath, or doubling up the fabric on the front and/or body of the garment.

I chose to double the navy sections of the body and keep the sleeves and mesh bands sheer. The mesh bands were positioned so they are not too revealing.

Sheer, fine knits come in a variety of fiber contents. Rayon is a popular choice for its nice drape. The Italian viscose knit I used is a form of rayon.

The white stretch mesh is nylon.

Many sheer knits are VERY man-made fibers, m EASY VOGUE which contribute to w tthe slipperiness of the fabric. th Another thing to consider is the stretchability of the st knits. Some knits kn are more stable than

others, so make sure your choice is compatible with the pattern you have selected. (See more about this in Pattern Design, below.)

INTERFACING

Interfacing will reduce the sheerness of the fabric and isn’t recommended, except to control hems. Suitable interfacings include featherweight fusibles cut on the crosswise grain, as well as tricot knit or very lightweight woven fusible interfacings with a small amount of crosswise stretch. I use 1" (2.5cm) wide strips at the hem, and fuse them to the garment before construction begins. (More on this later.)

PATTERN DESIGN

Pattern choices are as varied as the fabrics available. Pay attention to the amount of stretch the knit has, and

make sure it’s compatible with your chosen pattern (or vice versa). Use very stretchy fabrics for close-fitting garments, and more stable fabrics for looser tunic-style tops. If the pattern you select has a stretch gauge, make sure your fabric matches it. V8877, suitable for both wovens and knits, was the perfect choice for my viscose knit, which is stable with no lengthwise stretch and a little crosswise stretch.

I modified pattern V8877, adding two 1¼" (3.2cm) bands for the sheer mesh knit. This was easy to accomplish because the pattern already has a shoulder yoke that ends above the bust, at the perfect location for the first band.

I simply cut the yoke (pattern piece #1 for the front and #3 for the back) apart 1⅞" (4.8cm) up from the lower edge (1¼" stripe plus ⅝" seam allowance).

Then I added a ⅝" (1.5cm) seam allow-

ance to the upper edge of the band and the lower edge of the remaining section of the yokes.

I wanted the lower mesh band to fall at my midriff, above the waistline, so I measured and drew a line 1¼" (3.2cm) above the waistline symbol on pattern piece #2 (used for the front and back). Then I marked a second line 1¼" (3.2cm) above the first. Cut along the two marked lines to create the band for the mesh knit, and add ⅝" (1.5cm) seam allowances to all four cut edges.

To eliminate the need to hem the bottom of the garment, I cut the lower section as one long piece (body and body lining), which I folded up on itself along the hemline. To alter the pattern, just take a piece of tissue and duplicate the lower section, then tape the pieces together along the hemline. Rename the pieces as indicated.

Yolk and Yolk Lining Upper Body

Lower Band

Body

Hem Fold

Body Lining Upper Band

APRIL/MAY 2015 35

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Pin Primer

There’s more to sewing pins than meets the eye. Here’s a guide to the vast array available and their purposes.

BY LINDA TURNER GRIEPENTROG

P

ins for holding pieces of cloth together have been around for more than four thousand years, and were originally fashioned out of bone or iron. As pins became more common, they were made of stronger metals like brass and steel. But steel can rust, so today’s most common pins are nickel-plated steel, which resists rust. This is very important if you live in a humid climate—when purchasing pins look for the term “rustproof” on the packaging.

You can also find pins made of brass, nickel-plated brass, stainless steel, and chrome-plated steel (the strongest). If you purchase pins that are nickel-plated you should know that the nickel can flake off over time. To be safe and avoid stains in your material, don’t leave pins in fabric for long periods of time. It’s a good idea to purchase new pins every few years whether you think you need them or not.

PIN PARTS

The head of a simple straight pin is a flat nub of the same metal used in the rest of the pin. Pinheads can also be made of plastic, nylon, or glass; some are pearlized. If you plan to press over pins during construction, look for glass or “no-melt” plastic heads. Larger heads can help with pin visibility in fabrics and are easier to hold onto, but can also get in the way if you’re doing handwork or trying to pin small trims close together for

40 VOGUE PATTERNS

a secure hold. In addition to traditional ball shaped heads, pins come with novelty shapes like flowers, butterflies, buttons, etc.

The shaft of the pin varies in diameter, depending on the type of pin. Thicker pins are more durable and resist bending, but may leave marks on fine fabrics.

The pin point can be sharp or rounded, depending on the pin type, and can be elongated as well.

SIZE WISE

Straight pins vary in length from ½" (1.3cm) to 2⅛" (5.4cm) long, and some specialty pins may be even longer. When reading a package of pins, you may see two different length designators—a true length in inches or millimeters or a numbered pin size. The pin sizing system designates lengths in 1/16" increments—for example, a size 20 pin is 1¼" long. Straight pins are commonly sized from 8 to 32, but you may also see terms like “long” or “extra-long” to indicate length. Select a pin long enough to hold the fabric layers together, but not so long that you’re constantly poking yourself as you work.

The size of the pin shaft diameter varies by pin type, and is listed in millimeter increments. Some pin brands don’t list the shaft size, but designate pins by name, such as “fine” or “superfine”. Use narrow shafts (.4-.5 mm) for lightweight fabrics and larger shafts (.7-.8 mm) for heavier fabrics.

PIN TYPES

There are three broad types of pins used for sewing, quilting and home décor projects: straight, specialty, and safety pins. Within each category there are multiple options. As with other sewing tools, we need different pins for different situations.

STRAIGHT PINS Appliqué: These very short pins are ideal for holding appliqués in place for hand stitching, and also to secure trims. Their length means threads are less likely to snag on the heads while stitching.

Ball Point: The rounded point helps eliminate snagging on knit fabrics as the point slips between the fibers instead of piercing them. Lengths can vary depending on the fabric weight.

Craft: The extra-long shaft is perfect for use on home décor and crafting fabrics.

Quilting: The long shaft length and colorful heads of quilting pins make them appropriate not only for quilting through multiple layers, but for use on heavy and bulky fabrics like fur, velvet, etc.

Dressmaker: Perhaps the most common pin used by sewers, this all-purpose type is good for general sewing on medium-weight fabrics.

Satin: Tapered fine points are the hallmark of these pins, which are available in several lengths. They’re great for use on delicate fabrics where you don’t want to risk permanent pin marks.

Patchwork: Extra-long and extra-fine, these pins are used to hold precise intersecting seams in place for machine stitching.

Beading: With a slightly enlarged head, these pins are ideal for working on openweave fabrics where regular pins might be lost. As the name suggests, they work well with beading crafts.

Sequin: Like appliqué pins, these extrashort pins are ideal for holding sequins and trims in place for stitching.

Pleating: A fine shaft and sharp point make these pins ideal for pinning pleats in place, especially on lightweight fabrics.

Bridal/Lace: The extra-fine shaft of these pins makes them perfect to use on lace and delicate fabrics that might be marred by pin holes.

Silk: Long and thin for use on delicate fabrics, these pins are ideal for working with materials that are prone to permanent holes.

APRIL/MAY 2015 41

HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

The new nauticals for 2015 include classic shades of blue and white in both timeless and trendy silhouettes. No summer wardrobe is complete without one of these all-time favorites.

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The classic doublebreasted jacket gets a fresh outlook with shaped princess seams outlined with white topstitching.

Very Easy Vogue V9068, Misses’ 8–24. The tted pants have a slightly ared hem. Very Easy Vogue V9010, Misses’ 6–22.

Earrings: Extasia. Bracelet: RJ Graziano. Handbag: Eric Javits. Shoes: Nine West.

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HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS WWW.VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

These breezy shift styles are just the thing for warmer weather. This page: Half sleeves make this a great dress for work, and button tabs highlight the waist.

Very Easy Vogue V9047, Misses’ 8–24. Earrings and bracelet: Extasia.

Handbag: Eric Javits.

Next page: Simple lines and delicate sleeve ounces are a great backdrop for this bold print. Very Easy Vogue V9062, Misses’ 6–22.

Earrings and bracelet: Zenzii.

EASY STYLES IN PINK AND ORANGE ARE AN ELECTRIC COMBINATION FOR SPRING.

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TOOLS OF THE TRADE: Part 1 of 4 Part Series

Serger Sense

W

hile it’s certainly possible to accomplish great sewing without one, for many sewers a serger has become a sewing room essential. These machines combine needle and looper threads to stitch a seam while simultaneously trimming and overcasting the seam allowances, at a speed of over 1,300 stitches per minute. Used for finishing raw edges, stitching rolled hems, seaming knits, and more, they put the neat, efficient finishes common in ready-to-wear within reach of the home sewer. But the decision to invest in a serger can be a big one, and it pays to be well informed so you can get the features you need at the price you want.

Part I: What it does & why you need one

BY BETH BAUMGARTEL

A Brief Anatomy Lesson Depending on the manufacturer and model, you’ll find sergers using two to five threads with a variety of functional and decorative stitch patterns as well as safety and convenience features.

However, the essential components are generally the same.

As with a standard sewing machine, the basic operating controls of a serger are a foot pedal and handwheel. The power and light switches may be separate or combined.

On the back of the serger are the thread stand and spool pins to hold the thread, and the thread pole guide. It is important to fully extend the thread pole and to run the threads through their designated thread guides on the crossbar so they don’t tangle during stitching.

Each thread passes through a tension slot or dial. For good stitch quality, make sure the thread is correctly seated in the tension apparatus.

The front of the serger has a cover that opens to expose the loopers and lower cutting knife. A threading guide is often printed on the inside of the cover, and thread paths are usually indicated

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• •

Babylock Eclipse DX

with color-coding.

the feed dogs on most stan•dardUnlike machines, the serger feed can usually be adjusted to ease or gently stretch the fabric as it moves through the machine (see “differential feed” later).

Depending on the model and brand, a number of specialty presser feet may be available for specific sewing tasks. Some specialty feet come with the machine and others need to be purchased sepa-

•

rately. These feet are not interchangeable with standard sewing machine feet.

The needle assembly typically holds one or two needles depending on the stitch; these create the straight stitch portion of the seam.

The loopers hold the threads that overcast the cut edge. Most sergers have two loopers; an upper and lower looper.

Five-thread sergers have a third looper called a chain looper that is used to

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