Okinawa Living Magazine

August 2019 | Issue 258

PARCO CITY MATA NE, OKINAWA

contents August 2019

26 40

10 features 10

Out + About: PARCO CITY Everyone loves a new mall (well, mostly everyone). It’s time to visit the largest and newest one on Okinawa—San-A PARCO CITY!

26

Mata ne,* Okinawa *See you again Of all the things you’ll miss when you leave Okinawa, what will you miss the most? The widespread courteous service? Vending machines? Or, perhaps, the cleverly packaged onigiri (rice balls) available in convenience stores?

58

Unjami Learn more about Unjami, ancient traditional rites that define the people of Ogimi Village in northern Okinawa as Uchinânchu­—or “people of the sea.”

fitness + fun 19

Taiyo Golf Club Complimentary Player Development Summer has arrived on Okinawa! With longer daylight hours and warmer weather, it’s the perfect time to introduce yourself, a family member or a buddy to the game of golf.

21

40

Restaurant Review: Chao Chao Ryukyu Chinese This newly opened restaurant excels at two of the eight great Chinese cuisines—foods of the Sichuan and Guangdong Provinces.

HILLARY TAYLOR, THOMAS ALAN SMILIE, COURTESEY OF CHAO CHAO

58

Dive-In Movie Nights There’s no better way to beat the heat on Okinawa than an evening at the pool…and we’ll even throw in a FREE movie and snacks!

49

Make It a Smooth one Help make your PCS transition a smooth one by attending the Smooth Move Workshop.

kids + parents 51

Kids Cartooning Classes Kids can learn to draw some of their favorite characters and even design their own at these classes held at Foster Framing and Fine Arts.

services 55

MCCS Gift Cards Show them how much you care with an MCCS Gift Card for that special occasion.

extras

dining + entertainment

5

37

7

Okinapa Wine Festival It’s almost here…the premier wine-tasting event on island known as Okinapa!

Mensore

Feedback & Show Us!

71

Living on Okinawa

39

Teppanyaki at the Habu Pit Enjoy a meal that’s as entertaining as it is delicious.

marines + families 43

On the cover A young Ogimi Village resident dressed in traditional Ryukyu attire, readies for Unjami festivities.

Married and Loving It! Marriage workshops offer great opportunities to reconnect with your spouse and strengthen your relationship.

72

Marketplace Guide

AUGUST 2019 | ISSUE 258 COMMANDING GENERAL, MCIPAC Brigadier General William J. Bowers ASSISTANT CHIEF OF STAFF, MCCS, MCIPAC Edward S. Hutsell DEPUTY ASSISTANT CHIEF OF STAFF, MCCS DIRECTOR, MCCS, MCB CAMP BUTLER Michael S. Gieseck DEPUTY MCCS DIRECTOR MARINE & FAMILY PROGRAMS Carlos J. Saldaña DEPUTY MCCS DIRECTOR BUSINESS & SUPPORT Casey Roberts CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Jim Kassebaum EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Mike Daley MCCS ART DIRECTOR Henry C. Ortega OKINAWA LIVING ART DIRECTORS Margie Shimabukuro Catherine Newquist GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Emeline Toole, Ai Jirka EDITORIAL Amanda Carrasquillo, Ashley Sablan DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Thomas Alan Smilie PHOTOGRAPHER Kailey LaValliere DIGITAL & SOCIAL MEDIA Kathlene Millette, Lillion Hunt Hamilton, Hillary Taylor CULTURAL RESEARCH SPECIALIST Ayako Kawamitsu ADVERTISING SALES & SPONSORSHIP MANAGER Roy Forster ADVERTISING SALES & SPONSORSHIP Yoshihiro Shinzato, Hiromitsu Horikawa Kim Viotti, Terumi Nagai, Serge Sombie MARKETING ACCOUNTS MANAGER Andrew Menges MARKETING ACCOUNTS Alicia Sallese, Courtney Davis, Sophie Schimke DISTRIBUTION Joan Webb, Jason Jones SUMMER INTERNS Grace Charkowski, Bryan Vigil

We welcome your comments.

Please send letters to editor@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org

mensôre “Welcome” to Okinawa Living

Habu Summertime on Okinawa—balmy evenings with gentle breezes perfumed with the scent of abundant verdant greenery. Conditions are perfect for twilight walks. And, also perfect for a local scaled inhabitant called the habu.

Okinawa is home to a vast variety of reptiles, from the tiny gecko to venomous vipers such as the Okinawan habu, the hime habu, the Sakishima habu and the non-venomous, but sometimes aggressive, akamata. Most habu that inhabit the Ryukyu Archipelago have triangularly-shaped heads, narrow necks that broaden into a thick muscular body and long hypodermic needle-like fangs. The Okinawan habu can be distinguished by its yellowish-green color, which alternates with dark brown splotches on its back. The hime habu’s back is dark brown with gray or darker brown splotches, and the Sakishima habu has a dark gray back with yellow and orange markings. Akamata aren’t venomous so they don’t have fangs (but they definitely have teeth). Their heads don’t have the distinct triangular viper shape, and they have yellow, orange and reddish bands alternating with dark brown patches on their backs. While the differences between species are distinctive, you probably won’t want to hang around for a closer look.

Everyone should know the best way to deal with a snakebite is simple—don’t get bitten in the first place. Rule number one in lessening your chances of this is to pay attention to your surroundings when outdoors. Watch not only where you step, especially in areas where there's heavy vegetation, rocks, stones and piles of debris, but also be cautious when reaching into that rock crevice to pick up the can of bug repellent you just dropped. You may also want to clear away overgrown bushes in your yard, mow the lawn regularly, get rid of that small mountain of rocks (use a long, sturdy stick) and adequately light the area around your home in the evenings.

Habu are among many creatures that receive undue bad publicity, and although considering them “cute and cuddly” might be stretch, they're definitely deserving of respect….and tons of caution. For more information about Okinawa’s hazardous critters, both on land and in the water, pick up a FREE copy of the 2019–2020 Okinawa Guide. 

For advertising | 広告掲載のお問い合わせ (日本語可) 098-970-2245 (phone) | 098-970-0975 (fax) sales@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org (email) See our advertising rates at mccsokinawa.com MCCS MARKETING BRANCH MCB Camp S.D. Butler. Unit 35023, FPO AP 96378-5023

Mike Daley Editor-In-Chief

MIKE DALEY

Okinawa Living is published by MCCS Marketing. Its purpose is to inform the military and civilian community about events and programs offered by MCCS or available in the local market. Dates and times may change. Copyright ©2018

by MCCS. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transferred in any form, by any means, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without written permission of the copyright owner. No federal or Marine Corps endorsement of advertisers and sponsors. MCCS is not responsible for editing content of non-MCCS ads.

Okinawa Living Magazine is printed with

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Visit mccsokinawa.com/ol for the latest issue. Also, visit issuu.com/mccsokinawa to see back issues of the magazine.

feedback

from the ICE Program and Facebook

@okilivingmag Show us your island adventures and favorite food finds!

The classroom farthest from Thirsty’s [Enlisted Club on MCAS Futenma] doesn’t have Wi-Fi. Also, the classroom is ridiculously packed with tables and chairs. I suggest you reorganize the layout of the classroom to create more space and a better flow for students to take their seats.—via ICE We sincerely appreciate your suggestions. We have moved the desks in the classroom to allow for an aisle in the middle of the classroom that allows easier access and mobility. We have also submitted a work order to our IT department to look into the Wi-Fi issue. If you have any other questions or concerns, please contact us directly.

—via MCCS Education Program

@elzamante

Stay funny. Everyone loves funny. #okilivingmag

Hello, can we please bring back the assisted pullup/dip machine [in Gunners Fitness Center on Camp Foster]? It was a great piece of equipment to finish a workout with and to build on the fundamentals of Marine Corps physical fitness!

Also, if possible, some Wi-Fi would be awesome because this building gets horrible cellular reception! If free MCCS Wi-Fi isn’t available, a Boingo router placed inside so current customers can connect would also be acceptable.—via ICE The assisted pull-up/dip machine was removed because it was at the end of its lifecycle. To help you continue to build on the fundamentals of the Marine Corps physical fitness, we have added a dual cable pulley system and power bands that can be used with the pull-up bars. Also a “lat” pulldown machine is also available.

Regarding your suggestion for installing WiFi, we have acted on your request and forwarded a request to our IT department for consideration and action.

MCCS Semper Fit is dedicated to serving the military community, and we strive to the best of our ability to ensure the needs of our customers are met. If there are any other questions or concerns we can assist you with, please contact us directly.—via Semper Fit Foster Athletics I’m looking for a travel agency. Is there one on Camp Foster?—via Facebook IACE Travel is co-located with MCCS Tours+ on “upper” Camp Foster inside Bldg. 1010, the same building where Tsunami SCUBA is located, adjacent to the Foster Theater. IACE Travel offers a range of airline tickets, travel packages and tours to international destinations, hotelreservation services, car rentals and more. You can learn more about MCCS Tours+ and IACE Travel on our website at mccsokinawa.com/tours.

@mariaejohns

Psst. It’s triple scoop day at Blue Seal! #okinomnoms

@anewmac

When you’re so chill, you have the fish eating out of your hand! #okilivingmag

Domo arigatou gozaimashita and thank you for your posts! We can’t wait to see what else you love about Okinawa!

—The Okinawa Living Staff

Give MCCS Feedback—ICE Program & Facebook Let us know how we can better serve you or thank us for a job well-done. Go to mccsokinawa.com and click on the ICE link at the bottom of the homepage or find us on Facebook to share feedback. Comments on this page may be edited for clarity or length.

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 7

Text by AMANDA CARRASQUILLO Photography by HILLARY TAYLOR Layout by MARGIE SHIMABUKURO

OUT + ABOUT

pened only since late June with a store area of approximately 645,835 square feet, San-A PARCO CITY mall is home to over 250 stores—of which 94 are the first of their kind on Okinawa.

Located just outside of Camp Kinser on the Hwy 58 bypass, the giant mall overlooking the sea can’t be missed. It’s a whopping six stories, after all, with the first three floors being commercial. You’ll find the San-A, along with mostly confectionary, coffee beans and souvenir stores on the first floor; fashion brands, sportswear and cosmetics on the second; and the larger stores, movie theater and arcade on the third.

Hopefully you’ve had a chance to check out the new mall already. But if for some reason you haven’t, or you’ve yet to explore every store, here’s a sneak peek: AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 11

OUT + ABOUT

PIXELSAWAY/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

You can find a variety of apparel, footwear and accessories to appease any style. Just to name a few, there’s Zara (for the highly fashionable), Oki Rock (basically the Hot Topic of Okinawa), Coach, The North Face, HUF and Levi’s—all on the second floor. There’s also adorable kids clothes at Anpanman Kids Collection (3F), Miki House (3F) and Akachan Honpo (2F).

Makeup lovers might want to make sure they have someone with them to stop them from buying too much, as there’s several cosmetic stores that’ll seem to be calling your name.

There’s NYX Professional Makeup, Cosmeteria (with products by KOSE) and Fruit Gathering (offers brands like Dior, Laura Mercier, Bare Minerals, Mac and more), for example.

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 13

OUT + ABOUT

PHOTOS BY YOSHIHIRO SHINZATO, HILLAR TAYLOR

It’s impossible to walk around a huge mall without working up an appetite. Luckily there’s plenty of food scattered around, along with a food court on every floor.

The Food Terrace (1F) is the smallest of the three, but hosts American favorites like KFC and Pizza Hut Express. At the Food Hall (2F), you can enjoy the gorgeous ocean view as you rejuvenate with ramen, soba, steak or taco rice. Or, if you’d rather go to a sit-down restaurant, the Restaurant Hall (3F) has Pizzeria Marino (Italian), Hakata Sky Puratakao (tempura), "Megumi" (rotation sushi) and more. The third floor is also where Panda Express and Starbucks are located.

Anyone with a sweet tooth should head to Lindt Chocolate Café (2F), where you can order a tall iced milk or dark chocolate drink, or create your own assortment of delicious Swiss chocolate.

Fans of dark chocolate will also be happy to find chocolate bars that go as dark as 99%. But if chocolate isn’t really what you’re looking for, try Yanbaru Gelato (1F) or Gong cha bubba tea (3F).

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 15

PHOTOS BY UNITED CINEMA , HILLARY TAYLOR, THOMAS ALAN SMILIE, YOSHIHIRO SHINZATAO

OUT + ABOUT

United Cinema (3F) is the largest movie theater on Okinawa with 11 screens and three screen systems (IMAX, 4DX and ScreenX). Here, you can choose to watch a movie in 4D to be fully immersed in the latest flick. In case you’re wondering, 4D uses special effects like gusts of air, strobe lights for lightning, water coming from the ceiling to simulate rain, fog, water mists, scents and much more. The seats also move, and there’s not one, but three curved screens working together to make you feel as though you’re actually in the midst of the action.

Next door to United Cinema is Nameco, an arcade full of coin-operated games. There’s also a play area for kids with lots of toys, a playground, a climbing wall and more. The older kids, and even the adult-aged ones, can enjoy the Virtual Reality Zone, where you can play games like Godzilla or Mario Kart.

Just down the hall is the largest hobby shop on island—Hobby Shop G-Soul by San-A. This specialty store carries over 1,000 collectible items from Dragon Ball Z, ONE PIECE, Gundam, Marvel, DC Comics and much more. It also features impressive exhibition displays.

To see what else is at PARCO CITY, visit parcocity.jp. 

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 17

FITNESS + FUN

Taiyo Golf Club

KZENON/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

Complimentary Player Development

Summer has arrived on Okinawa! With longer daylight hours and warmer weather, it’s the perfect time to introduce yourself, a family member or a buddy to the game of golf. And, the best way to familiarize yourself with the game is to enroll into a good golf program that not only teaches, but also inspires confidence on and off the course. Through its Complimentary Player Development Program, Taiyo Golf Club offers many options that take as little as 15 minutes to 2 hours and are FREE, including professional instruction and any required equipment.

The offerings include Family Night every first Wednesday from 5 to 7 p.m. with FREE range balls and FREE tips available from the course pro. The 9-Hole Putting Course–a real grass min-golf course available on the practice green behind the clubhouse for sharpening skills—is available every first Wednesday from 5 to 7 p.m. with FREE tips available from the course pro. On third Wednesdays of the month from 5 to 7 p.m., families can brush up on their short game proficiencies skills with FREE tips available from the course pro at Short Game Night. And, on fourth Wednesdays from 5 to 7 p.m., families are allowed FREE access to the yellow tees on the golf course.

Every Thursday from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. is for the ladies of the links.

Ladies are welcome to hit FREE range balls with FREE tips available from the course pro.

Saturdays are for discovering golf at Taiyo. Every first Saturday, Taiyo Golf Club offers Just-4-Juniors from 1 to 2 p.m., where juniors can hit FREE range balls with FREE tips available from the course pro. Every second Saturday is FREE Range Afternoon for Marines and Sailors from noon to 3 p.m. Active duty Marines and Sailors can hit FREE range balls with FREE tips available from the course pro from noon to 1 p.m. Every third Saturday is FREE Range Day for spouses from 1 to 2 p.m. Spouses of active duty Marines and Sailors can hit FREE range balls with FREE tips available from the course pro. Finally, fourth Saturdays are Simulator Saturdays! From noon to 3 p.m. virtual golfers can enjoy FREE launch monitor and golf simulator use. Usage is on a first-come, first-served basis with half-hour slots scheduled in-person beginning at noon.

For more information or to sign up, call Taiyo Golf Club at 6222004/2006 or visit mccsokinawa.com/golf. 

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 19

FITNESS + FUN

Summer Skins!

Taiyo Skins Weekend

Grab your buddies and prepare for a weekend face-off at Taiyo Golf Club. On Saturday, August 17 and Sunday, August 18, play with your friends while competing against other golfers in a casual game of skins. Score the lowest on any hole, and win a skin. That’s it! So what’s the challenge?

When playing skins, you never know what’ll happen. Sometimes all it takes is a stroke of luck for you to take home the prize. You could play terribly for 36 holes, but play one hole well and win.

Or you could play wonderfully the entire time, and have the skin snatched out of the palm of your hand at the very last second.

There will be an entry fee of $10, which will be given back to the winners in the form of gift certificates. The more players that enter, the bigger the purse grows. In the case of any ties for the lowest score on a hole, that hole will be “cut” completely and not count. Registration for this fun, casual game will take place on the day of the event from 6 to 9 a.m. For more information, call 6222004/2006 or visit mccsokinawa.com/golf. 

Lifeguarding Full Course

LONDONDEPOSIT/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, WAVEBREAKMEDIA/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

Learn How to Save Lives So you want to be a lifeguard? Then take the first step with MCCS Aquatics by completing a Lifeguarding Full Course.

Set to take place from August 13 to 24, this class will teach you the necessary tools and techniques needed when caring for those in and around water. You’ll learn how to prevent, recognize and respond to aquatic emergencies.

Also, you’ll leave with the ability to provide professionallevel care for breathing and cardiac emergencies, injuries and sudden illness until emergency medical services personnel can arrive and take over.

Finishing this course will result in the following certifications: Lifeguarding/First Aid/CPR/AED, Administering Emergency Oxygen and Bloodborne Pathogens Training.

To attend, students must be at least 15 years old on or before the last day of the course. Participants must also be able to pass the required prerequisite skills.

Register by August 11 for $150. For more information or to register, please visit mccsokinawa.com/certification.

Upon successful completion of the course, check out mccsokinawa.com/jobs for lifeguarding opportunities. 

Dive-In Movie Nights Catch a Flick by the Pool Summertime is coming to a close and everyone wants to say they did something. But in the heat of Okinawa, that can be a struggle. However, MCCS Aquatics has just the key—Dive-In Move Nights!

This perfect solution will be hosted at the aquatic centers on Camps McTureous, Hansen and Schwab, as well as Plaza Housing.

Patrons of all ages are invited to chill poolside or in the water while they enjoy a family-friendly showing.

And, to make it even better, FREE food, including popcorn and non-alcoholic drinks, will be available while supplies last.

Dive-In Movie nights will be held on August 1 at Plaza Housing, August 7 on Camp McTuerous, August 15 on Camp Hansen and August 22 on Camp Schwab.

All Dive-In Movie nights will be from 7 to 9 p.m. For more information, visit mccsokinawa.com/aquatics.  —Grace Charkowski

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 21

FAR EAST

BODYBUILDING BEASTS OF THE EAST

AUGUST 4

CAMP FOSTER THEATER

20

$

Tickets available at any staffed MCCS Fitness Center/Eventbrite beginning July 1.

SPECIAL GUESTS Taylor Spadaccino IFBB Pro

Blessing Awodibu

2x Arnold Champion IFBB Pro

Josh Thomas

NPC Competitor

Autograph Schedule August 2 10 a.m.–noon

House of Pain Fitness Center Camp Hansen

August 3 10 a.m.–noon

Gunners Fitness Center Camp Foster

August 4 3–4 p.m.

Camp Foster Theater

2–3 p.m.

McCutcheon Gym MCAS Futenma

Sponsored in part by:

mccsokinawa.com/bodybuilding

FITNESS + FUN

Join the Dolphins! …and Swim like a Fish!

Raise That Bar Kinser Bench Press Competition & Gunners Bench Press Club

THOMAS ALAN SMILIE, SANNIE32/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, LIGHTPOET/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

How much can you bench? If you think you’re strong, you should press your limits at the Kinser Bench Press Competition or try to join the Gunners Bench Press Club.

The Kinser Bench Press Competition is scheduled to take place at Kinser Fitness Center on Sunday, September 1 at 9 a.m. Those interested can register early at any staffed MCCS Fitness Center by August 26, or at Kinser Fitness Center or Eventbrite by August 30 for $20. You can also register onsite on the day of the event between 7 and 8 a.m.

To join the Gunners Bench Press Club on Camp Foster, men must bench a minimum of 300 lbs and women must bench at least 145 lbs.

Participants who bench their designated weight will win a t-shirt and have their name and the weight they lifted placed on the Bench Press Club board located inside Gunners Fitness Center’s weight room. A Bench Press Club event takes place approximately every eight weeks.

For more information on either of these events, visit mccsokinawa.com/semperfit or email adultsports@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org. 

Does your kid dream of swimming in a pool of gold medals? The Okinawa Dolphins Swim Team (ODST) youth tryouts will take place on August 26 from 3:30 to 5 p.m. at the Foster Aquatic Center (located behind Ocean Breeze). Tryouts will consist of two parts, based on the exit skills assessment for Level 5 American Red Cross Swimming Lessons.

Part 1 will consist of a non-stop 50-meter freestyle with proper side breathing, head/body position and kicking. Part 2 is a 25-meter backstroke followed by a 25-meter breaststroke.

Tryouts are open to swimmers at least 7 years of age.

Visit mccsokinawa. com/swimteam for more information. To find out more on learning how to swim, swimming for health and enjoyment, or competing in the pool, visit mccsokinawa.com/ aquatics. 

Summer Swim League Camp NOW Open for Registration Summer Swim League Camp is now open for registration! Sign up and help your aspiring swimmer to become more comfortable and confident in an aquatic environment. Swimmers will be introduced to the four swimming strokes as well as basic starts and turns.

This camp is aimed at elementary and middle school age swimmers who have not been on a swim team. Swimmers must be at least 7 years old by the first day of class and must pass the official MCCS Swim Test on the first day of camp.

MCCS Aquatics’ Summer Swim League Camp consists of five 2-hour competitive swimming lessons running August 12 to 16 (Monday to Friday from 8 to 10 a.m.). Register for $75 per swimmer until August 8 (11 p.m.) at 2019_swim_clinics_and_camps.eventbrite.com. Sessions will be held at Camps Kinser, Foster and McTureous Aquatic Centers. On the final Friday, all groups will meet at the Foster Aquatic Center. For more information, visit mccsokinawa.com/learntoswim.  —Grace Charkowski

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 23

FITNESS + FUN

Prove It! Distance Challenge Swim Relay Think you and your friends are the strongest and fastest in the pool? Prove it at MCCS Aquatics’ Distance Challenge Swim Relays August 17 at the Foster Aquatic Center from 7 to 10:30 a.m. Sign up your four-person swim team and compete in this exciting, exhilarating (and best of all, FREE) twohour relay race. Each teammate will swim 400 meters at a time in a predetermined order until the two hours are up. The team that swims the longest distance wins.

Register online at the MCCS Aquatics website by August 15 (11 p.m.) or at the Foster Aquatic Center by August 17 (7:45 a.m.).

For more information, visit mccsokinawa. com/aquatics. 

Calling All Swimmers MSAVOIA/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, URBAN_LIGHT/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

It’s Time for a Meet!

The Okinawa Dolphins Swim Team (ODST) is hosting a swim meet on Saturday, August 10 at the Foster Aquatic Center. This meet is open to both youth and adult swimmers on the ODST, as well as non-ODST and non-SOFA competitive swimmers.

Age groups are 8 & under, 9–10, 11–12, 13–14, 15–18, 19–29, 30–39, 40–49, 50–59 and 60 and over. Swimmers’ ages for all meets will be their age as of the 2020 Tokyo Winter Championships (March 7, 2020). Swimmers will be seeded by entry times regardless of age and gender, but will receive awards based on age group and gender. Ribbons will go to the Top 8 finishers in each age group by gender for every event.

The order of events are as follows: 400 Free or IM, 100 IM, 50 Back, 100 Back, 25 Back, 200 Choice #1, 100 Free, 25 Kick with a board, 50 Breast, 100 Breast, 25 Breast, 200 Choice #2, 50 Fly, 100 Fly, 25 Fly, 50 Free and 25 Free.

Limit is three individual events per swimmer. ODST youth swimmers will have their events selected for them by their coaches. ODST adult and non-ODST swimmers will choose their own events.

Entry is FREE. To enter, email your name, gender, age and events (if applicable) to odst@hotmail.com. For more details, visit mccsokinawa.com/swimteam.  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 25

Text by Ashley Sablan Layout by Ai Jirka

THOMAS ALAN SMILIE

S

ometimes, you fall in love with a duty station so much that saying goodbye can feel like ending a romance. It seems like the minute Okinawa began to feel like home, it was time for another upheaval.

When my husband and I first learned we’d be spending three years here, we were less than thrilled. After all, he enlisted for a chance to venture out of Asia, and Guam, the Pacific island he and I both originally call home, isn’t exactly worlds away from here (roughly four hours flying commercial and even less if you snag a Space-A direct). Another island, we thought, would mean the same old song— clear waters, beautiful beaches, fresh seafood, a year-round lackadaisical lifestyle kicking back beneath warm, sunny skies… In these respects, we were right. Woe is us.

By the military, Okinawa is known as “the Tip of the Spear.” By tourism bureaus, it’s touted as “Japan’s Hawaii.”

But while there may be a likeness between the Ryukyus and other islands in the Pacific, I’ve learned that this old kingdom is well-worthy of its very own credit.

There are now so many things about this island I can say I’m going to miss. And what makes it especially hard to leave is that I know that even after three years on Okinawa, I’ve just barely scratched the surface.

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 27

NAME/BIGSTOCK.COM

Vending Machines There’s approximately one vending machine per every 23 people in Japan. That’s over 5 million machines nationwide raking in more than $60 billion a year. Not hard to imagine since they’re literally everywhere, dispensing just about everything: Down alleyways, in front of convenience stores, outside restaurants, in rural and residential areas. Cool beverages, hot beverages, ice cream, cigarettes, seven coffee options, five tea options, sparkling water, juice, Vitamin C and soda. Parched? You have no excuse.

Oh, and as I’m not a people person, I’ll miss the vending machine restaurants as well.

自販機

ANTONMATYUKHA/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, HILLARY TAYLOR, ARSAWAT/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

Restrooms An eminently qualified subject after talking beverages, I think we can all agree that the public restrooms in this country are superior. Other than the simple fact that they’re clean, there aren’t gaps at the edges of stall doors. There’s also the literal privacy button located on the toilet itself—the one with the musical note that sets off soothing sounds of rushing water.

What’s also lovely is how parent-friendly they are. Baby chairs inside stalls, toddler-height urinals in the women’s room, kid-sized sinks, a separate baby-changing room to accommodate both mothers and fathers, dispensers streaming warm potable water so parents can shake up a bottle of formula on the fly. I’m not a mother, but I can appreciate the need.

Some honorable mentions are the wide shelves located above the toilets on which you can set multiple bags and belongings, the automated sanitary napkin disposals, the sometimes floral-scented toilet paper rolls, and of course, the heated winter seats.

公共トイレ AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 29

Konbini

コンビニ

How did we ever survive without them? Japanese convenience stores stock everything you never knew you needed—“konbini” is short for “convenience,” if you didn’t already know. Aside from it being possible to get all three meals at once (and every kind of snack or chips you can think of), their ticket machines and printers/copiers have been a godsend. Not a day goes by where I didn’t at least stop for some convenience store coffee. And with their stellar service, them being on almost every corner makes it so that one never feels alone, you know?

Food Culture

ANTONMATYUKHA/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, TKKURIKAWA/DESPOSITPHOTOS.COM, TUPUNGATO/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, THOMAS ALAN SMILIE, RURAMOS/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

Okinawa’s food culture far transcends Japanese cuisine.

First, there’s the aforementioned konbini food culture. And the sushi and ramen shops will be a massive loss of course, just as the Okinawan soba, festival foods and taco rice. But pork is king here, and I’ve never eaten so much of it in my life. Finally, I’ve had goat curry, gôyâ champurû (bitter melon stir-fry), umi budo (sea grapes), beni imo (purple sweet potato) and even horse sashimi, and enjoyed every bite.

I’ve also fallen so deeply in love with the overall dining experience—I’ll miss being able to press a call button when I’m ready to order. I’ll miss never having to wait for my check. I’ll miss the koin torei (coin trays), oshibori (moist towelettes), the izakaya, the small dive bars and the awamori. I’ll even miss the small portions and glasses of water that were admittedly frustrating in the beginning, but that I’ve now come to prefer.

食文化 Superior Customer Service The customer service here is excellent. The stark contrast between the close consideration and acute attention to detail here versus almost anywhere else always exceeds my expectations. From ¥100 clerks and cab drivers to airport counters and top notch hoteliers, though your representative may feel as though they’re simply doing their job, the people on this island will typically go well out of their way to help you or at the very least, are incredibly skilled at making others feel as though they have. Sometimes it’s just the thought that counts.

おもてなし AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 31

Packaging Clean and minimalist. Loud and vibrant. Tradition. Ingenuity. And not only am I stunned at Japanese packaging aesthetics, but also at how they’re intentionally designed to enhance our interactions with the product from start to finish, use and consumption. A lot of consideration goes into these perforated bottle labels, easy-to-peel-off price tags and nifty three-step onigiri wrappers. Thoughtful little touches like those always left me as a consumer feeling all the more special.

パッケージ

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Kawaii Culture

かわいい文化

In a land littered with arcades and zakka (household goods) shops lined wall-to-wall with Hello Kitty, it’s safe to say kawaii (cuteness) isn’t just a subculture. From fashion and entertainment to big business and national government, kawaii is a big part of modern Japanese culture. I quickly found myself awwing at everything, including the pink cement trucks and cartooned construction blockades.

It wasn’t long before many of my questions “why?” became “why not?”

Opportunity for Travel With Okinawa’s proximity to greater Asia comes an incredible opportunity for travel. This whole region is home to dozens of low-cost carriers. Of the few that service Okinawa, you can hop on a Jetstar, Peach Aviation or Vanilla Air flight, and for only a few hundred bucks at a time, witness the insane beauty and chaos that is Tokyo, Osaka, Bangkok, Hanoi, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Taiwan, Seoul, Phnom Penh, Bali, Singapore, Manila or Kuala Lumpur. I’ve scored one-way promo fares for as low as ¥2,980. My wallet and wanderlust are definitely going to miss it.

旅の機会 AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 33

島生活

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Island Life You want to know why Corona is the top-selling import beer in the United States? Certainly not because the beer is any good.

It’s the exotic paradise fantasy—sandy beaches, azure waters, verdant jungles, sun-drenched skin. Some people have to save up their entire lives just to spend a week in a place like this. All the while, we’ve been stuck on a semipermanent holiday.

In the local Uchināguchi language, there exists the concept of nankurunaisā. This “don’t worry, be happy”/“every little thing is going to be alright” attitude is what sets Okinawa so far apart from other prefectures in the nation.

Sure, island living doesn’t come with all the amenities (like Target or same-day shipping), and yes, life in the islands does move at a slower pace. But that’s the price of living in the tropics. As soon as you come to accept that the Ryukyus don’t exist solely to cater to its visitors’ needs, you really do free yourself up to more of the island magic.

You don’t have to drive very far to find it. Check underwater, at the beach, behind shrines, in gusuku (castle) walls or along the island’s staggering cliffs. I’ve found it everywhere—especially in the Okinawan people. And I suppose above the restrooms and konbini, that’s what’s making this particular PCS move all the more painful.

Because of everything on this list and not on this list that I’m sure I’ll miss once I find myself without, I’d have stayed on this island for as long as they let me.

Until we meet again Okinawa! 

またね、沖縄 AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 35

DINING + ENTERTAINMENT

Okinapa Wine Festival

RODERICA MATHIS

…at Butler Officers’ Club Did you know that for only $45, you can sample fine wine from around the world at Okinapa—a premier wine-tasting and food-pairing event that takes place annually at the Butler Officers’ Club (BOC) on Plaza Housing? This year, Okinapa will be on Friday, September 13 and Saturday, September 14. Both days will run from 5 to 10 p.m. Tickets will sell out fast, so hurry and get yours while you can!

The mission behind this wine festival has always been to share the beauty of wine and food, to allow everyone (whether an expert or beginner) to wow their palates and to simply bring people together for a relaxing evening of fun and fellowship. And since its

beginning in 1997, Okinapa has done just that for over 30,000 people.

What makes this festival so popular are the exquisite vintages from vendors all over the globe. Attendees can try wine from top wine destinations such as Italy, Argentina, the US (and not just from California), Australia and more. They can also pair their choices of wine with a sensational selection of culinary delights carefully crafted by experts.

This is a classy event, so the preferred dress is cocktail attire. In other words, please dress comfortably, but leave the flip-flops, t-shirts and tattered jeans at home. Also, please be responsible; don’t drink and drive.

Taxi and daiko services will be available, as

well as FREE transportation by MCCS bus shuttles. These buses will run to and from BOC and other on-base locations. To view the bus schedule, visit the MCCS website.

This event is open to SOFA personnel, and U.S. and Japanese citizens ages 20 and older. All non-SOFA guests must be accompanied by a SOFA-status individual.

Tickets must be purchased by a SOFA member and are limited to four per authorized buyer. Please be sure to bring your ticket or use the Eventbrite app on the night of the event for admission.

For more information or to purchase tickets, visit mccsokinawa.com/okinapa. You can also call BOC at 645-7530 (098-970-7530).  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 37

DINING + ENTERTAINMENT

Teppanyaki …at the Habu Pit

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If you haven’t had the teppanyaki experience, you’re definitely missing out!

In case you don’t know what teppanyaki is, it’s a style of Japanese cuisine that involves skilled chefs displaying their talents as they grill high-quality meat, seafood and vegetables on a solid, flat iron griddle. These griddles are usually heated with propane and surrounded by seating for diners to enjoy the culinary exhibition. This is not to be confused with hibachi, which is a portable cooking device (similar to a small barbecue) that has a wooden or ceramic container filled with burning charcoal or wood under the cooking plate.

On Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, the Habu Pit on MCAS Futenma hosts a Teppanyaki Night in their Teppanyaki room. From 5 to 9 p.m., you can choose from a wide selection of delicious entrées, all of which come with savory lemongrass soup, a fresh garden salad (with your choice of dressing), fresh Japanese vegetables (bok choy, bell peppers and bean sprouts), grilled thyme potatoes and your choice of garlic fried rice, steamed rice or garlic toast.

Some of the entrée choices are a 12 oz. lemon herb chicken breast, a 12 oz. tender teriyaki chicken breast, eight Asian seared sea scallops, 5 oz. twin cold water lobster tails, a 6 oz. New York strip steak and a 6 or 10 oz. filet mignon. There are also combinations (one includes four jumbo shrimp, four sea scallops and a 5 oz. cold water lobster tail), a children’s menu, a full course menu that’s served for two, add-ons and delectable desserts.

For more information or to view the menu, visit mccsokinawa.com/habupit. 

Roasted Chicken To-Go Available at Ocean Breeze & Tengan Castle Who doesn’t love a good roasted chicken? Especially one already made, just waiting for you to swing by to pick it up. It’s a delicious solution to a busy night or the perfect meal when you don’t quite feel like whipping anything up. It’s also a quick and convenient way to get some lean protein on the table.

Lucky for us, both Ocean Breeze on Camp Foster and Tengan Castle on Camp Courtney offer Roasted Chicken To-Go. Available on weekdays after 4 p.m., both Ocean Breeze and Tengan Castle sell roasted chicken cooked to perfection for just $10.

For more information, call your local participating restaurant. You can reach Ocean Breeze at 645-3666 or visit them online at mccsokinawa.com/oceanbreeze. Tengan Castle’s number is 622-9413. You can visit them online at mccsokinawa.com/tengancastle.  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 39

RESTAURANT REVIEW

CHAO CHAO

Hours of Operation Lunch Wednesday–Sunday 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

L.O. 2:30 p.m.

Dinner Tuesday–Sunday 6 a.m.–11 p.m.

L.O. 9:30 p.m. (Food) L.O. 10:30 p.m. (Drinks) CLOSED Mondays Facebook chaochao.okinawa Phone 098-989-7772

LEFT PAGE: CHAO CHAO RIGHT PAGE: HILLARY TAYLOR

Location 904-0116 Okinawa-ken, Nakagami-gun, Chatanchō, Chatan, 2-chōme −1 5-1 Directions When exiting the Camp Foster Commissary Gate (Gate 5), turn right onto Hwy 58. Take the left after the Gift Brand Plaza (you’ll see Hamby Town right behind it).

Go straight until the stoplight, then take a right. You’ll see it on your left (right before Araha Resort Arapana).

Payment ¥,CC

Ryukyu Chinese Text by Ashley Sablan

Light and sweet. Bold and nutty. A few months into the business and Ryosei Nakamoto’s newly-opened restaurant already excels at two of the eight great Chinese cuisines—foods of the Sichuan and Guangdong Provinces, where cooking philosophies couldn’t possibly be more yin and yang.

Through balancing acts and modest seasoning, Chao Chao Ryukyu Chinese offers Cantonese flavor and freshness alongside a well-executed Sichuan-style that seems to combine “a hundred different dishes.”

But this isn’t fusion. All dishes are what they’re traditionally meant to be. What’s special is that served under the same roof, they each successfully offset one another and, in the process, set off a mouthwatering experience.

If you’re dropping by for lunch, try the Hong Kong Lunch Set. For ¥1,280, delight in a comforting bowl of rice congee and four kinds of dumplings: pork and shiitake shumai, ebi (shrimp) dumpling, pork and shrimp gyôza and steamed pork buns. All are cooked-to-order, of course, and delivered to your table in a towered set of bamboo steamer baskets.

You could also live a little and order the Ryukyu Lunch Set. For ¥1,000, slurp down spicy tantan noodles and a thick sesame-peanut-pork broth. To do it right, top it off with a dollop of mouth-numbing sansho pepper paste (Sichuan pepper’s Japanese equivalent). Though not exactly spicy, these prickly ash peppercorns will leave your mouth literally buzzing. It also melds well with the

Mapo Dofu, which is a Sichuan specialty of soft tofu, tobanjan (fermented broad and soybean sauce), green onions, pork and tenmenjan (sweet bean sauce).

Off their main menu, the fried vegetables with garlic are actually just bok choy and red bell peppers sautéed in a light garlic sauce, but that’s really all good Cantonese cuisine demands—fresh ingredients and a know-how to use them. Another case in point is their Japanese “Wagyu” beef with green pepper. The Akage Wagyu, flown in from Kumamoto Prefecture, is soft, expertly seasoned and makes for what is, quite possibly, the best beef stir-fry you’ll ever have, period.

Last but not least, we highly recommend the ebi mayo. The lightly battered prawns are slathered in a sweetened mayonnaise-based sauce, reminiscent of Western-Chinese “honey walnut shrimp,” only—in yet another one of Chao Chao’s kitchen juxtapositions, it’s paired with a tangy uni (sea urchin) sauce.

Opposites certainly attract at this Chinese restaurant.

The interior is contemporary with traditional touches.

The wooden tableware has neat, clean lines. The staff is friendly and inviting, yet never veers from professional.

And, however casual the occasion, you can surely count on quality customer service and always delicious food.

Stop by and see for yourself. Chao Chao Ryukyu Chinese is located just off the Araha Beach access, and is open for both lunch and dinner. 

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 41

MARINES + FAMILIES

Married and Loving It!

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Restore Your Connection Marriage workshops offer great opportunities to reconnect with your spouse and strengthen your relationship. Many also find comfort in a group setting, as it provides a solid amount of support from others, plus those facing issues tend to appreciate the reassurance that they’re not alone.

Married and Loving It! is for couples in all situations.

Whether you’re in search of new practical tools that will help you revitalize your relationship, want to refocus your efforts so you can get back to what’s really important, need a third party to help facilitate discussions or want to join in simply for the sake of growth, the Behavioral Health Family Advocacy Program (BHFAP) welcomes you and your spouse with open ears.

Married and Loving It! is a two-part workshop. Join us on August 2 and 9 in Bldg. 439 on Camp Foster, and be ready to expand your communication skills, discuss financial freedom, discover your love language, improve your conflict resolution skills and more.

While couples are encouraged to participate together, it’s not required. You also don’t need to be formally married to attend. To register, call 645-2915 or email fapprevention@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org. For more information, visit mccsokinawa.com/behavioralhealth.  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 43

MARINES + FAMILIES

Journey Through Pregnancy NPSP is Here to Help When you first find out you’re having a baby, you quickly realize there’s a lot to learn about what to expect over the upcoming months. On top of that, it’s important to prepare as much as possible. So if you’re feeling a little overwhelmed or simply want to make sure you’ve got everything down, the New Parent Support Program invites you to join Journey Through Pregnancy, a 12-week informative series that offers an open environment for parents-to-be to ask questions and learn about labor and birth, medical procedures, new mother care, feeding, new baby care, Dunstan Baby Language and more.

Classes are held on Tuesdays in Bldg.

4408 on Camp Courtney, Wednesdays at the Kinser Chapel and Thursdays in Bldg. 439 on Camp Foster, and are held from 1:30 to 2:30 p.m. For more information or to register, call 645-0396 or visit mccsokinawa.com/npsp. 

Summer Reading Program Finale An End of Summer Celebration

NPSP Nurturing Parenting Programs

RODERICA MATHIS

Here to Help You on Your Wonderful Journey Nothing ever quite prepares you for parenthood. Still, receiving caring advice and education from our professional team of nurses and clinicians at the New Parent Support Program (NPSP) can make it so your journey through parenthood is filled with more laughter than frowns.

NPSP offers a wealth of information to new or expectant parents. Various programs include Parents in Uniform, Journey Through Pregnancy, Baby Boot Camp, Dads in Gear, Infant Massage and more. Each service is designed to empower individuals and families with knowledge, strategies and skills to make healthy parenting and lifestyle choices.

Meanwhile, positive parent-child bonding and attachment as well as balancing family and military life is another huge mission.

Nurturing programs for parents and their infants, toddlers and preschoolers are offered in home or group settings—wherever you feel comfortable, and are FREE for Marine Corps and Navy families.

For a full program schedule complete with dates and times, please visit mccsokinawa.com/ npsp. Registration is required for any of these services. To enroll, stop by our office in Bldg.

439 on Camp Foster or call the New Parent Support Program office at 098-970-0396. 

MCCS Okinawa Camp Butler Libraries is hosting an End of Summer Celebration to commemorate the end of our 2019 Summer Reading Program.

The festivities will take place at the Camp Courtney, Camp Foster and Camp Kinser libraries on August 3 from 10 to 11:30 a.m. Those who participated in this year’s Summer Reading Program are encouraged to show up at their respective library to join us for a fun afternoon of food and giveaways courtesy of our spectacular sponsors, California Sunshine and Kafuu Resort Fuchaku. There will also be games like limbo, bean-bag toss, ping-pong toss and hula-hoops, as well as a three-legged race, potato-sack race and egg-on-aspoon race. Last but not least, we will also conduct the Grand Prize Drawing in which winners will be randomly selected and announced. Come and join the fun! For more information, call your participating library or visit mccsokinawa. com/libraries.  —Grace Charkowski AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 45

J P

MARINES + FAMILIES

Anger Management Take Control Anger is a normal, and even healthy, emotion. However, if it gets out of control, it can be destructive to your state of mind, health, relationships and more.

If you have a hot temper that’s negatively affecting your life, the good news is you can learn how to take control. You’re also not alone. A lot of people struggle with this emotion, and you can get the help you need.

Learn strategies to effectively manage anger and build conflict resolution skills in the Behavioral Health Family Advocacy Program’s (FAP) Anger Management Workshop.

This is a four-consecutive-week class that can be taken either on Wednesdays on Camp Foster in Bldg. 439 or Thursdays on Camp Hansen in Bldg. 2631. Both classes run from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Those interested must register to attend. To register, email fapprevention@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org or call 645-2915. For more information, visit mccsokinawa.com/behavioralhealth. 

Non-Commissioned Officer for Financial Fitness

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…or NCOFF for Short Personal & Professional DevelopmentResources invites all Non-Commissioned Officers interested in becoming an NCO for Financial Fitness (NCOFF) to enroll in the NCOFF training course set to take place August 21 to 22 (7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.) in P&PD-R Bldg. 445.

NCOFFs are trained to provide peerto-peer influence on personal finance by increasing awareness of services and programs made available by Personal Financial Management staff and the Unit Command Financial Specialist. By reaching out to Marines and Sailors ranks E1–E4, you’ll help them understand why financial fitness is an integral part of mission readiness.

Those interested must: be in pay grades E4 or E5, command endorsed, goal-oriented and motivated with good oral and presentation skills, financially stable and have at least 12 months remaining on Okinawa after completion of training.

Only 36 seats are available for this course. To register or for more information, call 645-2104. You can also visit MFP-R online at mccsokinawa.com/personal_ finance_management. 

Credit Report & Score Analysis Learn How to Build, Rebuild and Maintain If you’re having a credit crisis, maybe it’s time to learn how to establish an action plan for building, rebuilding and maintaining your credit rating at a Credit Report & Score Analysis class, offered by Personal & Professional Development-Resources (P&PD-R).

If you’re debt-free and have a decent credit score, you might think this class isn’t for you. But even if you think you’re all set, it’s important to check your credit reports to keep an eye out for errors or signs of fraud. So why not get an expert’s help on what exactly those confusing reports are saying?

Classes will be held on August 14 from 2 to 3:30 p.m. at P&PD-R Bldg. 445 on Camp Foster, on August 20 from 9 to 10:30 a.m. at P&PD-R Bldg. 1220 on Camp Kinser and August 23 from 11:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. at P&PD-R Bldg. 4425 on Camp Courtney. Registration is highly recommended. For more information or to sign up, call your local participating P&PD-R office or visit mccsokinawa.com/personal_finance_management.  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 47

MARINES + FAMILIES

Washi Paper Pen Holder Spice Up Any Room

Make It a Smooth One MONKEYBUSINESS/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, AKIYOKO74/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

Smooth Move Workshop Moving duty stations can be daunting. No matter how many times you may have done it, it’s never an easy task to just pack up your life and move, especially from overseas.

The mandatory Smooth Move Workshop by Personal & Professional Development-Resources (P&PD-R) provides pre-departure and destination information, travel entitlements, base and community information, pre-move financial preparations and much more. Let subject matter experts from the Distribution Management Office, Passenger Transportation Office, Disbursing Office and Installation Personnel Administrative Center assuage all of your worries. Each move is unique and poses its own endless what’s, when’s and how’s: “What do I do?” “When do I start?” and of course, “How do I do it?” Let P&PD-R help you find the answers so you can live out your

last few months on Okinawa worry free.

Orders are not required to attend this workshop and it’s recommended that Marines and Sailors attend at least 4 to 6 months prior to their scheduled rotation date.

Registration is highly recommended so we can set up adequate seating for those desiring to attend. The following Smooth Move Workshops are scheduled for August: For accompanied moves, a workshop will be held on August 5 from 8 to 10:30 a.m. at the Camp Foster Community Center. For unaccompanied moves, a workshop will be held on August 12 from 8 to 10:15 a.m. at the Camp Foster Community Center; and again on August 19 from 8 to 10:15 a.m. at The Palms on Camp Hansen.

For more information, call 645-2104 or visit mccsokinawa.com/relocation. 

Washi is a traditional handmade Japanese paper that’s a fun, colorful and inexpensive way to spice up any room. It was originally invented in 105 AD by a Chinese official named Cai Lun, but reached Japan in 610 AD by Doncho, a Buddhist monk from Korea.

Unlike western paper, which is made out of tree pulp, washi is typically made from the fibers of the inner bark of the gampi tree, the mitsumata shrub and the paper mulberry bush. But you might be thinking, “Okay, cool. But what’s so special about washi?” To answer that, it’s not only strong and durable, it’s water-resistant.

But why even mention it?

Because this month, Personal & Professional DevelopmentResources (P&PD-R) is hosting a chance to make the perfect gift for someone you care about! Learn how to make a creative, custom pen holder using milk cartons and washi paper. Classes will be held on August 12 (9–11 a.m.) in Bldg. 445 on Camp Foster, August 29 (9:30– 11:30 a.m.) in Bldg. 4425 on Camp Courtney and August 30 (9–11 a.m.) in Bldg. 1220 on Camp Kinser. This is a great opportunity for all ages to be creative and make a fun gift for someone, or keep it in their room or office! For more information, call 645-2104 or visit mccsokinawa.com/ culturalawareness.  —Grace Charkowski

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 49

KIDS + PARENTS

Kids Cartooning Classes Learn to Draw Your Favorite Characters!

Does your kid have a passion for the fine art of illustration? Perhaps you’re searching for a fun, after-school activity in which to enroll them. Well, now they can learn to draw some of their favorite characters and even design their own in just eight separate 1-hour sessions at Foster Framing and Fine Arts (located inside the Community Center on Camp Foster)!

On Wednesdays and Fridays from 4:30 to 5:30 p.m., the Kids Cartooning Class at Foster Framing and Fine Arts will help lay a solid foundation on the basics of cartooning as well as introduce all sorts of illustrative techniques that kids can then use to create whole new worlds of their own.

Beginners are more than welcome. For $32, children (ages 5 to

12) will be able to attend eight 1-hour class sessions right alongside other young, aspiring creators. Supplies are not included, so students are kindly asked to bring a sketch book, colored pencils, 2B wooden pencil and an eraser to join in on the fun. Sketching kits are also available for purchase at the Courtney Arts and Crafts Center (located across the Ironworks Fitness Center).

For more information or to register, contact Foster Framing and Fine Arts at 098-970-3674 or email artsandcrafts@okinawa.usmcmccs.org. Kids Sketching and Cartooning Classes are also available at Courtney Arts and Crafts Center. For more information on those classes, call 098-954-7492 or visit mccsokinawa.com/ courtneyartsandcrafts. 

Basketball & Cheerleading Registration

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The Season is Right Around the Corner!

Last-second shots, teammates becoming your best friends and supportive coaches all bring back the memories of playing a certain sport as a kid-memories that will stay with you forever. It’s no secret that almost every parent would want the same for their child. After all, joining a sports team can give the child passion and confidence that many parents found when they were younger. Even though it can be tricky nowadays, parents want to be able to connect with their child. Sports is one terrific way to do that.

MCCS Youth Sports is launching its annual winter basketball/cheerleading registration for the 2019–2020 season. This is the perfect opportunity to get your child into something that you experienced as a kid. Interested patrons may register online at mccsokinawa.com/youthsports or at any staffed MCCS Fitness Center between Au-

gust 15 and September 15. Registration is $60 per child. All payments must be made at an MCCS Fitness Center by September 15.

All Semper Fit Youth Sports seasons are held for children ages 5 to 18. Children who are 4 years of age may be registered as long as they turn 5 prior to the final day of the season, January 25. Youth Sports is also recruiting coaches for the Youth Sports Winter Basketball/Cheerleading 2019 season. Register as a coach by downloading the application at mccsokinawa.com/coachescorner or register at the Semper Fit Youth Sports office (Bldg. 5952) from now to September 15. Coaching will not only let you spend more time with your child, but help you make an impact. Share your passion for sports by volunteering!

For more information, call 645-3533 or email youthsports@okinawa.usmc-mccs.org.  —Grace Charkowski

AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 51

KIDS + PARENTS

Youth Water Polo Camp Become a Water Gladiator!

Water polo was one of the first team sports introduced into the Olympics in 1900. However, women’s water polo didn’t become an Olympic sport until 2000. The US women’s water polo team is notably strong, winning gold in the past two Olympic Games, as well as the past two FINA Water Polo World Cup Tournaments. Join this fast-rising sport by attending Youth Water Polo Camp at the Camp Foster Aquatic Center from August 19 to 23 for only $75.

The focus of this camp is to introduce water polo and water polo skills to children ages 9 to 17. On the first day of camp, participants must be able to complete a swim of 100 meters, non-stop, using freestyle in 3 minutes or less. Each day will start at 8 a.m. and last until 10 a.m. For details and to register, visit mccsokinawa. com/learntoswim. 

Back in Action!

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Back to School Family Fun Night A lot of parents might look forward to a new school year, but let’s be real, most kids find it to be kind of a bummer. It is, after all, the end of the lazy-hazy days of summer.

This time around, how about showing your kids that going back to school doesn’t have to be a drag? Help ease the jitters and get them excited for new beginnings by enjoying some school-themed family time before everyone’s schedule starts to fill up.

A Back to School Family Fun Night is the perfect opportunity to do just that.

Back to School Family Fun Night is an awesome end-of-summer celebration that will feature a family-friendly buffet, a fun “name that school snack” game and a chance to win a backpack filled with school supplies or other prizes from event sponsors Mattel and Moon Ocean Ginowan!

There will be three Back to School Family Fun Nights this month. Check out The Veranda at Ocean Breeze on Camp Foster on August 14 or, either Kinser Surfside or Camp Courtney’s Tengan Castle on August 29.

All family fun nights will run from 5 to 9 p.m. Prices are $7.95 for adults, $3.95 for children 5–11 and FREE for children under 5.

Make sure to mark your calendars and get ready for a new school year the way you should! For more information, call your nearest participating club or visit mccsokinawa.com/clubs.  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 53

SERVICES

MCCS Gift Cards The Gift That Keeps on Giving

A Gift for Your Ride… ...and for Your Ears Many drivers have original factory speakers in their cars because they just don’t realize the potential sound quality improvements they could be enjoying with some easy, and affordable upgrades. New car speakers and head units aren’t just for people wanting to send their bass rumbling down the street. A few simple upgrades to your current audio system can lead to significant improvements in sound, quality and power. Give your car

a gift that will make it happily thump! From August 17 through 26, Typhoon Motors islandwide will be cutting their prices on Kenwood automotive audio equipment with savings of 15% off on products. In addition, Typhoon Motors will also be offering 10–15% off select automotive goods at all facilities. For more information on the Kenwood Sale and more, call your nearest Typhoon Motors or visit them online at mccokinawa.com/typhoonmotors. 

Show them how much you care with an MCCS Gift Card for that special occasion. What can they use it for? How about camping gear rentals from MCCS Outdoor Recreation?

Why not a relaxing massage or performance-enhancing dietary supplement from Semper Fit? Or a customized bowling ball from the Camp Foster Bowling Pro Shop, framed photo from Foster Framing, a tour from Tours+ or an art class at Foster Framing and Fine Arts? The MCCS Gift Card is the most versatile gift, made for everyone. Use it to buy gear at the Taiyo Golf Club Pro Shop, an oil change from Typhoon Motors, a mask and snorkel from Tsunami Scuba…the list is endless. MCCS Gift Cards are available at MCCS retail facilities island-wide. For more information, call 645-5835 or visit mccsokinawa.com/giftcard. 

Summer Tire Sale ANDREUS/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, ILEXX/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

No Better TimeThan Now…

In places such as Okinawa, changing out a flat tire in sweltering afternoon heat and stifling humidity isn’t exactly a pleasant proposition.

That being said, paying a little extra attention to your tires can save you more than just a liter of sweat. How long has it been since you’ve changed your tires anyway? If you’re unsure whether you need new tires just by looking at their basic lack of tread or obvious baldness, try the simple penny test. Place the penny between the grooves on the top of your tire and if you can see the top of Abraham Lincoln’s head, chances are you probably need new tires. Enjoy 10% off on all new tires at your nearest Typhoon Motors through August. For more information, call your nearest Typhoon Motors or visit them online at mccokinawa.com/typhoonmotors.  AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 55

SERVICES

Joy Company Balloons …Inside Foster Custom Shop

Ikebana BELCHONOCK/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, COURTESY OF JOY BALLOON

Discover the Art of Flower Arrangement Are you looking for new and unique ways to decorate your home? Try ikebana, the ancient art of Japanese flower arrangement.

The art of ikebana dates as far back as the 7th century. The highly meditative process was practiced particularly by Buddhist monks and the samurai class who would create these stunning arrangements in an effort to honor temple altars and bring themselves closer to nature.

Fast-forward to today—this ancient art form is now practiced worldwide. And you, too, can learn to cut, balance and create beautiful floral arrangements just like the samurai warriors of the past by signing up for an Ikebana class at Foster Framing and Fine Arts.

Spice up your next party or special event with balloon decor by Joy Company, located in the Foster Custom Shop inside the Community Center (Bldg. 5908).

At Joy Company, you can purchase arches, columns, wall backgrounds, shaped arches (like Mickey Mouse ears, hearts and stars), number designs, centerpieces and much more—all created and designed by certified balloon artists. You can also order entertainment services such as face painting, bounce houses, magicians, balloon artists and more. All packages are made to fit all styles, events and budgets.

Proudly serving the military community on Okinawa since 2009, Joy Company has helped transform birthdays, baby showers, military events, graduations, weddings, grand openings and more. To order a unique balloon package, visit them online at joycompanyballoons.com or visit their Foster location.

And if you decide to add some balloons to your next party or special event, you’ll be happy to know that part of Joy Company’s funds are donated to a good cause—Doctors of Joy Okinawa, a project that supports professional clowns who visit hospitalized children and elders to brighten up their day.

For more information, call 645-3052 (098-970-3052) or email joycompany@ yahoo.com. 

Located inside the Community Center (Bldg. 5908) on Camp Foster, Foster Framing and Fine Arts offers Ikebana classes on Tuesdays (5–7 p.m.) and Saturdays (10 a.m.–noon).

At $85, students will receive four 2-hour learning sessions with flowers provided.

Students will be required to bring their own flat vase and kenzan (flower frog).

For more information, to register or to see what other classes are offered, contact Foster Framing and Fine Arts at 645-3674 (098-970-3674) or email artsandcrafts@ okinawa.usmc-mccs.org. You can also visit mccsokinawa.com/framingandfinearts. 

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AUGUST 2019 | OKINAWA LIVING 59

lthough its reputation is large— it's known internationally for its bashôfu textile weaving, closeness with nature and the longevity of its residents—Ogimi Village is small physically.

Bordered by the East China Sea on one side and mountains on the other, Ogimi is considered an idllyic pocket of old Okinawa, still relatively untouched by the high-technology hustle and bustle of modern life. This is probably why many residents of this small pocket of paradise understand the significance of preserving old ways and maintaining important ties.

Most of the older residents of Ogimi may live alone or with their spouse, but they are by no means shunted aside or living in solitary loneliness like the elderly in many “more developed” societies.

Elders live in a community of mutual care and assistance with constant contact with their children and grandchildren in the cities—just as in the old days. Although many younger villagers leave for school or work, most still religously honor the old ways and observe festivals and special occasions diligently. Their ties to home, family and tradition remain strong.

Such is the case with the ancient sacred rites called "Unjami," known to the rest of the world as "Ungami." Unjami is still practiced today, and still defines the people of Ogimi as "Uchinânchu"—or “people of the sea.”

No one knows exactly how long the residents of Shioya Bay have been practicing the old religious tradition, but Unjami is said to have been held every year during the Okinawan Obon holiday (midJuly according to the lunar calendar) for at least 18 generations. According to the Gregorian calendar, this year’s Obon takes place August 13–15.

Although different forms of Unjami are held in fishing communities throughout Okinawa (in many places, they're now often confused with Kaijinsai or

Fishermens’ Festivals held in May according to the lunar calendar), over the years, Shioya’s Unjami has become the most prominent in Japan. Every year, more and more tourists, shutterbugs and members of local, national and international media attend. And despite the fact that many feel this will lead to the ultimate downfall of this timeworn tradition, some aspects of Unjami, such as the haarii dragon boats used in ceremony, have spawned events in their own right—all of which have connections with a place called Nirai Kanai.

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Nirai Kanai is a world far out in the seas—the home of the gods. Nirai Kanai and their deities are believed to be the origin of all forms of life on Okinawa and through these gods’ blessings, fertility (which is called yû) is brought to the people of the islands.

On the night before the Unjami, a high priestess known as a noro (or nuru in Uchināguchi) performs a rite called “Ungumai,” in which she confines herself to pray in the niiya (the house of the community’s oldest family) and/or the village ashagi (a structure for religious rites). When this Ungumai is completed, an appointing ritual for priestesses called the “Arahansaga” follows. At this ritual, which is strictly off-limits to men, it’s believed that the divine spirits of Nirai Kanai’s gods’ communicate exclusively with the noro.

During the early morning hours of the next day, the new priestesses head to the shore and wade in waist-deep to officially welcome the deities themselves, which they believe to ride in on the high tide to visit the villagers with the rising sun. The deities are also welcomed by haari bunē (dragon boats) crewed by the men of the community. The noro, who are now infused with the spirits of the gods, then tour the villages around Shioya Bay. After the tour is complete, the noro gather in the afternoon at norodunchi (the house of the head noro priestess known as the niigami). Led by drums sounded by shidu (men acting as priests), they ascend to the ashagi and prayers are first chanted to gods to “bless” the general area. Entering the structure, the priestesses sit according to rank and offer sacred awamori to

community members participating in the rite. During this ritual, villagers believe that blessings will be brought to their families by accepting drinks offered by the noro or niigami.

The next ritual is conducted by another group called the “Ashibibiramuto.” These priestesses pray to the gods of the sea and the mountain and then rotate in a circle while chanting “Unkui, unkui” and beating a drum.

After this rite, they garland their heads with haabui (a handmade crown of vines) and perform a dance that brings the goodwill of Nirai Kanai to all. The sequence of rituals at the ashagi site concludes with gods’ departure in the Naa Ashibi ritual, which sees the gods off to the shore and beyond the sea back to their home on the last day of Obon, called “Ūkui.” Not exclusive to noro or priestesses, Naa Ashirbi is attended by all female members of the community.

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During the era of the Ryukyu Kingdom, noro prayed to various gods for the safe passage of seagoing vessels carrying taxes and tribute to China, as well as for bountiful harvests of rice, barley and wheat. Many noro also wielded significant social and political power. The head noro of a large community were almost always blood relatives of reigning monarchs; and this in itself gave them a great deal of influence. Many of these head noro lived near the kings’ residences in places of prestige on castle grounds.

Noro often attended battles during war, and presided over festivities during peacetime. Some noro were even powerful enough to force the resignation of kings.

As time progressed and times in the islands changed, the power noro held diminished—mostly because of the disappearance of closely connected village communities governed by elders (such as in Ogimi Village) in favor of larger towns and cities. As time passed, festivals and rituals traditionally presided over by noro held in cities required either “borrowing” one from smaller southern villages, or doing without. Many festivals such as Unjami began to disappear into memory.

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TROY’s Military and Family Scholarship caps the cost of tuition at $250 per credit hour for active military. Also, your spouse and dependents receive up to 50% in tuition savings.

CONTACT THE PROGRAM

COORDINATOR NEAREST YOU FOR MORE INFORMATION

KADENA AB kadena@troy.edu DSN 634-7464

OSAN AB osan@troy.edu DSN 784-5141

MISAWA AB misawa@troy.edu DSN 226-3748

CAMP HUMPHREYS humphreys@troy.edu DSN 755-3534

troy.edu/pacific

TERM I, 2019 Aug. 12 – Oct. 13, 2019 Application Deadline: 08/02/19 Registration Begins: 05/06/2019 TERM II, 2019 Oct. 14 - Dec. 15, 2019 Application Deadline: 10/04/19 Registration Begins: 09/23/19 TERM III, 2020 Jan. 6 - Mar. 8, 2020 Application Deadline: 12/20/19 Registration Begins: 11/25/19 TERM IV, 2020 Mar. 16 - May 17, 2020 Application Deadline: 03/06/20 Registration Begins: 02/24/20 TERM V, 2020 May 26 – July 26, 2020 Application Deadline: 05/15/20 Registration Begins: 05/04/20

As noro slowly faded into history in modern Okinawa, they began to be replaced with another form of “mystic” called the yuta.

Yuta, which are popularly thought of as “mediums” and “spiritual advisers” able to communicate with residents of the afterlife, were (and remain during modern society) predominately female. Unlike the noro, yuta weren’t necessarily tied to specific villages and dealt more with “consultation” with individuals.

During earlier days, yuta were treated with disdain by intellectuals who attempted to stamp them out of existence. Placing prices on their heads were even commonly practiced by the government to encourage cultural uniformity throughout Japan.

Although yuta are still met with derision and skepticism from many in modern society, most are pretty much free to counsel as they please. A practicing yuta of “good repute” may

see several clients a day. Patrons range in age from 14 to 90 and come from all walks of life. Questions vary from marital matters and selecting schools for their children, to asking advice about places to build houses and divining reasons behind accidents and long stretches of bad luck.

At first glance, many modernday Okinawans may seem a bit indifferent to many forms of organized worship—seeing groups of islanders congregating on street corners zealously discussing faith is not an everyday occurrence.

However, the many doctrines, beliefs and religions—including Shioya Bay’s Unjami—continue to play an important part in the lives of all Okinawans…because ancient rites such as these that will continue to shape the history of the Ryukyu Islands for generations to come, and continue to define the people of the prefecture as Uchinānchu. 

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LIVING ON OKINAWA

Yakitori - Skewered Grilled Chicken Yakitori is a popular snack that’s often seen at festivals on Okinawa. Although many different parts of the chicken are used, the following recipe features one of the most common versions.

Serves Two Ingredients 4 medium-sized chicken thighs (boned and skinned) 2 medium-sized Japanese leeks (negi) 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 3 Tbsp. mirin (sweet cooking wine) 1 Tbsp. sake (rice wine) 1 Tbsp. granulated brown sugar 1 tsp. honey or maple syrup 12–14 bamboo skewers *These are available at the commissary and most major grocery stores off base.

Preparation 1. Mix together the soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar with the honey or maple syrup in a saucepan and bring it to a rolling boil. Set aside to cool.

2. Soak bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes.

3. Cut the chicken thigh meat and leeks into bite-sized pieces (approximately 1–inch square for the chicken and 1 1/2 inches long for the leeks).

4. Place the chicken in a few tablespoons-worth of sauce and let it marinate in the refrigerator for 1–2 hours. Pour the remaining sauce into a cup.

5. Alternately spear pieces of chicken and leeks on skewers (4 pieces of chicken and 3 pieces of leek usually leaves enough room to flip the yakitori over while cooking).

6. Place yakitori on a partially banked hibachi grill, and alternate flipping with dipping into sauce until chicken is done (be careful not to leave on the grill too long as the skewers will catch fire).

7. Serve with a tall refreshing beverage of choice.

LENYVAVSHA/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM, EBFOTO/DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM

Tonbo Often appearing in Japanese poetry, dragonflies are also the subject of myth. On Okinawa, one may hear that the dragonflies are restless when a typhoon is on the way, appearing in droves in the evening.

Dragonflies, tonbo in Japanese, may seem fragile. In truth, the insect has been around for 300 million years. Perhaps this is why the Japanese view tonbo as a symbol of strength, power, success, victory or happiness.

Japan boasts more than 190 species of dragonfly. Most of these insects’ lives are spent as larvae in the water, making Japan pleasant breeding grounds with its rice paddies, rivers and mountain streams. The dragonfly morphs like a butterfly; shedding an outer layer and flying into acrobatic dances. They're often brilliantly colored—electric blues, shocking teals, bright white or even Ferrari red. They feast on other flying insects (like mosquitoes, thankfully), including the ones that feast on rice plants.

At one time, the tonbo were believed to be the spirits of the rice plants and farmers who saw them thought they were harbingers of a good harvest. The earliest images of dragonflies appear on bronze dotaku, or ceremonial bells from between the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD. The bells are thought to have been rung as prayers for a good harvest.

A story in Nihon Shoki, which was compiled in 720 AD, mentions the story of the 21st emperor who was stung by a horsefly. After a dragonfly swooped in to take the horsefly, the emperor was so satisfied by this he named the area "Akitsu," or dragonfly plain. 

Uchinâguchi Corner English

Japanese

Uchinâguchi

Cheers!

Kanpai!

Karii!

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