Postcard from Bath A/W 2023 by MC Publishing Limited

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CONTENTS / AUTUMN WINTER 2023

In this edition 42

Bath is also home to many little museums of special interest. Here’s a mini guide to them all

Zeitgeist – city updates, cultural events and happenings for the autumn

12–24 hours in Bath. How to spend your time

The splendour of The Assembly Rooms and The Fashion Museum and a preview of the current exhibition

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Map of the city

Any of Bath’s streets or buildings look familiar? Yep, you’ve seen them on TV and the silver screen

Start a cultural tour of the city’s arts scene at The Holburne Museum

Then a visit to Victoria Art Gallery

All about the rich and fascinating history of The American Museum & Gardens

City updates, news and essential information

Timeline – important dates in the city’s history

POSTCARDS:

Guided tours to the city’s attractions and places of interest

Bath’s most popular visitor attraction, The Roman Baths

Enjoy the breathtaking vista of the Royal Crescent

It’s known as the ‘Lantern of the West’ – a guided tour through the past, present and future of Bath Abbey

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90 94

A visit to the Pump Room A fully immersive dip into the history of the thermal spring waters and a visit to Thermae Bath Spa

CITY PEOPLE:

A collection of little conversations with the good folk that aim to please visitors to the city

We travel back in time to chat to Flavia, she’s a Roman woman and a regular at the baths

Top jeweller Mallory celebrate their 125th anniversary. Katie Vander Woerd tells us all about this wonderful city business

Meet Michael Musgrove, the General Manager of the four-star Apex Hotel

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We chat to Michelin star chef Rob Clayton about his highly acclaimed restaurant

HISTORY:

Some wonderful features from the local archives

The men who built Bath: Ralph Allen, Beau Nash and John Wood – the elder and the younger

On the cover: The Roman Baths in winter.

TO OPEN:

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CONTENTS / AUTUMN WINTER 2023

84 120 122

124

Dr Felicity James takes a look at Jane Austen’s time in Bath and what effect the city (and its social life) had on her work What have the Romans ever done for us? We take a look at the Roman festival of Saturnalia Bath’s main theatre has had a colourful and dramatic history. Now in its third incarnation, the Theatre Royal Bath reminds us that the show simply, must go on Ralph ‘Romeo’ Coates – the worst ever actor. It’s a great story, and quite hilarious!

CITY SPECIALS:

Snippets of indulgent fun and activities to make your stay special

There’s nothing more festive than the Bath Christmas Market

There’s an excellent art and creative scene here with many independent galleries offering great artworks

Spa city: a round up of a few favourite places for a good pampering session

FOOD & DRINK:

It’s vibrant, international and delicious. Bath has a phenomenal choice when it comes to eating out

Enjoy drinking a great coffe at the city’s top spots.

Afternoon Tea. Our guide to the best places to take tea, in style, in Bath

Read all about it. With help from Toppings Bookshop, some books on Bath

102

Start your tour of all the city’s gastronomic delights and the best tables to be found

Fancy a little souvenir to take home as a memento of your visit? Here are some popular gift choices

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We love the nightlife: The very best places in Bath to venture out after dark and be thoroughly entertained

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POSTCARD from

From the Editor

WELCOME TO BATH

ath during the winter months is a place of beauty and excitement. The days may be chilly, but it’s rarely too cold to venture out and explore the many delights the city has to offer. From a visit to the city’s world-class attractions and galleries, to architectural wonders – there’s something particularly enchanting about the hue of Bath Stone in the wintery sunlight. Whether you’re enjoying a sporting weekend or a pleasurable dip in the geothermal waters, or taking in a show followed by a taste of Bath’s excellent dining and entertainment scene... not to mention the great shopping; there’s so much on offer, it’s easy to appreciate how this small city provides all the magic needed to be one of the country’s finest visitor destinations. Of course for most of us, our thoughts are centred around the Christmas holidays – a German friend reliably informs me that we have officially entered what they call vorweihnachtszeit, or as we might say – ‘run up to Christmas’. While many of our festive traditions are influenced by Mitteleuropa and beyond, it’s fair to say that the Bath Christmas Market (23 Nov – 10 Dec) is well established as its own West Country entity and is one of the city’s most significant annual attractions. Postcard, as the name suggests, is a collection of experiential notes and personal accounts delivered by those who really know this wonderful city of ours. Rather than the usual tourist-guide formula, our writers have been assigned to delight and inform you in a far more perceptive way and I believe they’ve done an exceptional job. Finally in Postcard you can find much more practical detail to make your stay in Bath as well-informed as possible: great places where you can eat, drink, shop and be entertained. From all of us who have contributed to this edition, we hope you’ll absolutely love this little city we call home. Enjoy your stay. Return sometime soon. Steve M.

ABOUT US For more than 21 years we have been publishing The Bath Magazine – the city’s biggest monthly magazine. During that time we have amassed an extensive library of information and knowledge with some of the best writers and writing on Bath, its history and the places and people that make the city a great destination. Postcard from Bath is a compendium of new features and reworked articles and just about everything else we know and love about Bath. And, if you want to be informed about everything good going on in Bath: visit: thebathmagazine.co.uk

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BATH Publishing Editor

Steve Miklos E: steve@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Editorial Emma Clegg, Melissa Blease

Contributors, feature writers and photography: Jenny McAuley, Dr Felicity James, Georgette McCready, Jessica Hope, Catherine Pitt, Claire Louise Cohen, Dara Foley, Crystal Rose, Derryn Vranch, Paolo Ferla

Advertising Sales Liz Grey E: liz@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Production Manager Jeff Osborne E: jeff@postcardmagazine.co.uk

Finance Director Jane Miklos E: jane@postcardmagazine.co.uk

MC PUBLISHING LIMITED

2 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED Telephone: 01225 424499 © MC Publishing Ltd 2023 All rights reserved. This publication is copyright and may not be reproduced in any form, either in part or whole without written permission from the publisher. Opinions expressed in articles are strictly those of the authors. All information contained in this publication is, as far as we are aware, factually correct at the time of going to press. MC Publishing Limited cannot accept responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies in such information. Whilst every reasonable care is taken with all material submitted to The Postcard from Bath, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for loss or damage to such material. MC Publishing Limited endeavours to respect the intellectual property of any owner of copyrighted material reproduced in this publication. If any copyright holder has been wrongly accredited, please contact us.

Please enjoy and recycle this publication but if you are not able to participate in a recycling scheme, then why not pass your copy of Posctard to a friend or colleague.

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ZEITGEIST / CITY UPDATES News and happenings from across Bath

Good food and live music

Image: Anthony Brown

Green Park Brasserie

Swim at Bath’s Historic Lido Cleveland Pools are now open This much-loved Georgian lido – reopened to the public for outdoor swimming in autumn 2023, following a transformational restoration project led by passionate volunteers, and including a £6.5 million grant from The National Lottery Heritage Fund. The pools held a significant place in the hearts of the people of Bath for almost two centuries until it closed in the 1980s. The project to save the pools began in 2004 driven by volunteers to restore them to their former glory. As the project developed, it gained support from heritage organisations in Bath and at a national level. The water temperature in the pools varies seasonally. In the winter the temperature will be a bracing 5 degrees. In spring/summer 2024 the pools will be heated by a water source heat pump with temperatures of up to 28 degrees. The opening hours will vary throughout the year in response to conditions and customer demand. Check the opening hours and book a swim via the Cleveland Pools website.

Green Park Brasserie in the old Green Park Station invites all its guests to enjoy great food, drink and live music. The venue supports local food producers and offers a menu using quality ingredients, from Braised Beef Bourguignon Pie to a Moving Mountains Vegan Burger. What’s more, every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening the brasserie offers live music and candlelit dining. The music from the very best artists in Bath and Bristol includes modern funk trios, hot club jazz bands, acoustic soul and swing, Beatles' classics and sax-led trios. It takes place on Wednesday and Thursday from 6.30pm–8.45pm and on Friday and Saturday from 6.30pm–9.45pm. Green Park Brasserie, Green Park Station, Bath.

Web: greenparkbrasserie.com

Web: clevelandpools.org.uk

Bath on Ice Skate away this Christmas Glowing in atmospheric lights, Bath on Ice is back for its 11th year and is the perfect place to practise your skating and show off some moves. Located at the Royal Pavilion in Royal Victoria Park, you’ll find wintry music, a cosy bar, and seasonal drinks and be transported to a dreamy winter wonderland! Whether you’re a Dancing on Ice champion, a total newbie or just about anything in between, you’ll find some festive euphoria on the surface of the real, genuine ice.

17 November – 3 January Web: bathonice.com

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K I M B E R LY Kimberly has been established in Trim Street Bath for over forty years and stocks some of the world’s finest designers for women. Current designers include : Amina Rubinacci - Max Mara Studio Le Tricot Perugia - Luisa Cerano Kinross - Cinzia Rocca.

Kimberly Trim Street Bath BA1 1HB 01225 466817 kimberly.co.uk kimberly@kimberly.co.uk

Amina Rubinacci

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ZEITGEIST / WHAT’S ON What’s on and things to do

Bath Philharmonia Concerts at The Forum

The Circle

Highlights at Theatre Royal Bath Arabella Steinbacher

Quiz: The Coughing Major Millionaire Scandal

Bath Philharmonia & Arabella Steinbacher

In a shockingly shameless scam,Van Who to Be ( theWants Man ) Morrison a Millionaire was duped out of £1,000,000. Or was it? Rory Bremner stars as Chris Tarrant alongside Charley Webb, Lewis Reeves and Mark Benton in Quiz, the thrilling and entertaining ride through the infamous Coughing Major scandal which engulfed the world’s most popular TV quiz show. Tickets from £31.

A feast of lyrical and invigorating orchestral melodies featuring violinist Arabella Steinbacher, celebrated worldwide as one of today’s leading soloists, performing Tchaikovsky’s irresistible violin concerto. Also features Ludwig van Beethoven’s Egmont Overture and Johannes Brahms’ St Anthony Variations. Tickets from £25. Under 18s and students £5. Tuesday 28 November, 7.30pm

Bath Philharmonia & The Snowman

From 20 – 25 November

The Snowman on the big screen accompanied by the live orchestra with a hamper of seasonal orchestral delights. The Snowman is narrated by Howard Blake (live to film). Tickets £25. Under 18s and students £15. Saturday 16 December, 3.30pm

The Turn of the Screw Benjamin Britten’s The Turn of the Screw, based on Henry James’s famous novella, is a pillar of 20th-century opera and regarded as one of the most dramatic in the repertoire. 7.30pm and selected matinees. At the Ustinov Studio. £38.50/£28.50.

Bath Philharmonia & Nicola Benedetti 2024 Start the new year with Bath Phil in a concert that shimmers in the moonlight and embraces the warm glow of home, featuring superstar violinist Nicola Benedetti performing pieces including Scottish Fantasy, Bruch’s gloriously romantic evocation of Scotland. Tickets from £25. Under 18 and students £5. Tuesday 16 January

From 1 – 23 December

The Circle

December, 7.30pm

Image © Snowman Enterprises Ltd

Buy tickets online or see other events at: bathboxoffice.org.uk

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Will history come full circle? Or can one generation learn from its parents’ mistakes? Jane Asher plays Lady Kitty, a society beauty who notoriously abandoned her stuffy husband Clive (Clive Francis), and eloped with the handsome Lord Porteous (Nicholas Le Prevost). Thirty years later, love’s young dream has descended into nonstop squabbling... Somerset Maugham’s sparky comedy of manners was first staged in 1921 and has remained a firm favourite with audiences ever since. Tickets from £22.50.

From 10 – 20 January Web: theatreroyal.org.uk

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Take an E-Bike or E-Scoot to see Bath Here’s how to do it... The latest way to get around Bath is to take one of the fleet of 500 TIER shared e-bikes and shared e-scooters. The service comprises TIER’s state-of-the-art ‘E-bike 3’ and latest ‘TIER 6’ iteration of its shared e-scooter. Users can rent both e-bikes and e-scooters through the TIER app available on iOS and android, and first-time riders benefit from one free unlock and 15 minutes of free riding time. Pay-as-yougo pricing is 99p to unlock the bike and then 16p per minute. There is also a range of passes including a £4 daily Commute Pass offering 30 minutes riding time, as well as a range of daily and monthly passes. To start you ride, either scan a QR code on the bike or pick the bike you want to unlock in the TIER app. Once the bike is unlocked, you must remove the cable lock from the rear wheel and secure it along the top of the rear mudguard. To end your ride, locate a parking bay, the locations of which can be found on the map in the TIER app. Once stopped you need to deploy the kickstand, insert the cable lock through the rear wheel and end their ride in the app.

Enjoy a free walking tour Mayor of Bath Honorary Guides Enjoy a free walking tour of Bath, including the main points of historical and architectural interest. Tours last around two hours, covering all the main sites and some lesser-known spots in Bath with an interesting history. The tours are informative and entertaining both for residents and visitors to the city. The guides are proud of their walking tour, which is free and no guide accepts a tip. The reward is the satisfaction of welcoming visitors from across the world and leading informative, interesting and entertaining walking tours of the beautiful and historic city of Bath. Places on these tours cannot be booked – you simply need to turn up at the starting point. The walks start outside the Pump Room in Abbey Church Yard at the sign board saying ‘Free Walking Tours Here’ (see above). The start times are as follows: Sunday to Friday – 10.30 and 14.00. Saturday – 10.30 only The guides offer tours every day of the year except Christmas Day. Web: bathguides.org.uk

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ZEITGEIST / FESTIVE THINGS Seasonal delights and dates for the diary

Winter Wonderland Visit The American Museum & Gardens for a sparkly, hand-crafted Christmas experience The museum’s Georgian Manor House will be festooned with beautiful, artisan decorations, with a stunning 18-foot Nordmann fir tree in Central Hall, dressed with 9000 twinkling lights and ornaments. Frosty gardens with spectacular views are a haven for wildlife and peaceful spaces for fresh winter walks and wellbeing. Winter opening hours have been extended to 5pm, so visitors can benefit from special winter twilight views across the valley. In December there will be Christmas workshops and festive food and drinks at the American Garden Deli. Tickets £9/£15.50//free for under 5s.

The American Museum & Gardens, Claverton Manor, Claverton Down, Bath. Web: americanmuseum.org

Christmas Market Shop while feeling festive From its humble beginnings in 2001 when the market had 40 stalls and ran for four days, Bath Christmas Market has emerged into something much bigger. This year it runs for 18 days with around 200 stalls, stretching around the Abbey and up Bath Street. The emphasis is strongly on handmade and fairtrade products as well as sustainability. The market is a singular place to be at this time of year.

23 November – 10 December Web: bathchristmasmarket.co.uk

Visit Dyrham Park between 1 December and 7 January to explore Christmas through the ages. Located to the north of Bath, the National Trust property will be dressed with festive decorations from five different eras, with festive writings by the likes of Samuel Pepys, Jane Austen and Charles Dickens brought to life. There will be pear-themed decorations with Christmas trees and wreaths. Families can let the excitement build while tracking down giant wooden presents in a discovery trail around the 270 acre site. Closed 24/25 December.

Web: nationaltrust.org.uk

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Dyrham Park

Image © National Trust

Christmas at Dyrham Park

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The Christmas Season at Theatre Royal Bath

Sleeping Beauty The fabulous family pantomime promises a laugh-aminute extravaganza with stunning sets, top musical hits, fantastic costumes and exciting special effects. EastEnders’ and West End star Neil McDermott plays Prince Vincent alongside Bath favourite Jon Monie as Lester the Jester, Nick Wilton as Dame Nanny Nora, Hollyoaks’ Sarah Jane Buckley as Fairy Snowfall and Maisie Sellwood as Princess Rose. Tickets £9–£40.50.

7 December – 7 January

A Christmas Carol Olivier Award-winner Guy Masterson returns to Bath following his previous sell-out visit with his highly acclaimed solo performance of Charles Dickens’ classic fable. Tickets £14/£27.50.

3, 11, 18 December (2pm and 7pm)

Wendy: A Peter Pan Story In a once-grand town house, Wendy is growing up fast. Between homework and caring for her family, Wendy dreams of a last childhood adventure. In fly Peter and his friend Tink, and when they steal Wendy away to The Neverland, the stage is set for a thrilling battle against time, against Hook, and against magic! James Baldwin’s adaptation of J.M. Barrie’s classic story speaks of the innocence and wonder of childhood and the importance of imagination. Tickets £15/£20.

1 December – 13 January Web: theatreroyal.org.uk

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POSTCARDS

ITINERARY 12–24 HOURS IN BATH It’s your time in Bath, so spend it well. Our very own round-the-clock tour guide Melissa Blease counts down the hours for a one-day or a two-day stay

MINIMUM SPEND: 12 HOURS/ONE DAY • 8am – wake up to Bath If you’ve only got one day in Bath, you need to get moving early to make the most of it... So use your post-breakfast quiet time to check out the addresses that the hoards are set to congregate around later on: the honey-coloured curves of the Royal Crescent and the Circus, the breathtakingly impressive, clean lines of Great Pulteney Street and the elegant Milsom Street area are all at their stage-set best when bathed in the early-morning sunlight. • 10am – culture calling Your attention levels should be at their peak around now, so take your pick of the fabulous historic tourist attractions in the vicinity of the city centre. Choosing just one option is a tough call, but if you’re time-limited, you’re not going to be able to take them all in; fortunately, either the Roman Baths, the brilliant Holburne Museum or Victoria Art Gallery can be ‘done’ in a single two-hour blast. • 12 noon – lunch on-the-go If the autumn/winter sunshine is playing nice, lunchtime is the opportunity for a spot of al fresco refuelling set against one of the city’s historic backdrops, including Royal Victoria Park, historic Queen Square and the dramatic weir waterfall; grab a bespoke, instant picnic lunch and munch your sarnies in style. If, however, it’s a bit too nippy for fresh air fun, a myriad of cafés, restaurants and bars all vie for your attention. • 2pm – get wet Immerse yourself in the tranquil surroundings of the Cross Bath. Part of the Thermae Bath Spa Complex, this intimate, standalone, open-air thermal bath – an official ‘sacred site,’ complete with its own changing facilities – offers a uniquely peaceful alternative to the more extensive spa experience offered in the main New Royal Bath. Cross Bath sessions last a nice, neat 1½ hours including changing time, and a towel, robe and slippers are included in the entry price. • 4pm – afternoon amble Enjoy tea and cake at one of Bath’s many independent cafés

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before taking time to wander, browse, compare and contrast the distinctly different atmospheres between the fascinating, eclectic Walcot Street, the chic’n’glamorous area around Milsom Street and the super-shiny Southgate development, picking up souvenirs of your time in the city as you go. • 6pm – speedy supper If your time in the city is limited, you probably won’t want to linger long over dinner. Fortunately, a proliferation of pretheatre and early bird menu deals offer gourmet feasts at a fraction of standard à la carte prices between 6pm–7.30pm at restaurants across the city, usually detailed on easy-to-spot Aboards outside their doors. If you’ve been organised enough to book a hot ticket for a show at the Theatre Royal, the Ustinov Studio, The Forum, The Little Theatre Cinema, Komedia, Chapel Arts Centre or The Pavilion, your evening is planned. If, however, you’re footloose and fancy free... • 8pm – fun ‘n’ frolics For a wintry tour around the ancient and mystical streets of Bath and to hear spine-chilling stories from the vaults of the city’s history, the super-spooky Ghost Walks of Bath tours start outside the Garrick’s Head pub (John Street) at 8pm on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings throughout the year, and between May and October tours run 7 nights a week. But if rain stops play or you’ve done enough walking for one day, head for the Green Park Brasserie to enjoy free, live acoustic jazz/swing in an atmospheric former Victorian railway station every evening from Wednesday to Saturday, or The Bell (Walcot Street), which offers a warm welcome to one and all supplemented by a diverse range of live music three to four times a week on evenings (Monday, every other Tuesday and Wednesday from 9pm) ranging from jazz to blues to folk to roots. Meanwhile, St James Wine Vaults (James Street) hosts regular live music, performance poetry and interactive pub quizzes throughout the week. It’s been a long day! But if you’re still up for a little more of Bath, the Nightlife section (page 126) can point you in the direction of all manner of grown-up fun. If, however, you’re ready to hit the pillow – sweet dreams!

IMAGES: © Courtesy of Visit Britain, Visit Bath, Thermae bath Spa, AdobeStock.com and TBM

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your order. Elsewhere, you can’t go wrong with the vegetarian and vegan celebrations at Oak (previously Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen), or Rob Clayton’s uplifting, stylish modern bistro dishes at his eponymously named Clayton’s Kitchen.

TOP TIPS: A map is the most useful accessory a visitor can equip themselves with. But if you’ve got a couple of hours to spare bring the map to life by heading up the Wellsway and taking in the glorious views from Alexandra Park: behold, the city in miniature, awaiting your investigation.

MINIMUM SPEND: 24 HOURS/TWO DAY The basic ingredients for making the most of the overall Bath experience are listed in our one-day tour. But if you’ve got time to delve deeper, supplement your stay with these add-on ideas. • Make time to step back in time Lose yourself in Bath’s rich history with the Bath Museums Saver Ticket, offering discounted entry to the Roman Baths and special exhibitions at the Victoria Art Gallery – if you’ve got two days to spend in the city, you can give these museums the attention they deserve. And for special interests, check out the city’s great smaller museums and art galleries. • Bliss out Turn a visit to the Thermae Bath Spa into a highlight of your stay, supplementing the standard two-hour session with a treatment from the Treatment Menu or a package that includes lunch or dinner at the spa’s Springs Café. The spa’s spectacular Rooftop Pool offers breathtaking views over the city; naturally seductively steamy at any hour of the day, it’s particularly magical at sunset even during the autumn/winter months. • Tease yourself Upgrade the mid-afternoon café/coffee shop break to an unforgettable Afternoon/High Tea experience at the Pump Room, the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel, the Royal Crescent Hotel, The Ivy or Sally Lunn’s for a ‘Bath Bunn’. • Post-sunset shenanigans A two-night stay in Bath offers the opportunity to turn one evening into showtime (see venue suggestions on the 12-hour itinerary) and another into an unforgettable gourmet extravaganza. Tasting Menu plus optional Wine Flight experiences go large at Bath’s best hotels and restaurants, where some of the UK’s best chefs (Chris Cleghorn at the Michelinstarred Olive Tree Restaurant, Jauca Catalin at the Bath Priory and Martin Blake at the Royal Crescent) are waiting to take

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Mayor’s Guide Walking Tours – led by local volunteers who are knowledgeable and passionate about the city – are free. Don comfortable shoes and hook up with the group outside the Pump Rooms at 10.30am and 2pm from Sunday to Friday and at 10.30am on Saturday. All walks last around two hours. The Theatre Royal releases 40 gallery/side bench/perch tickets priced from around £9 on all performance days (maximum two tickets per person). These are available for booking as soon as tickets are for sale, and are available at the box office or online. City Sightseeing buses depart from Bath Abbey on a regular basis and offer two options: the City Route and the Skyline Route, which takes voyagers through the countryside high in the hills that surround Bath. Both routes include an experienced guide who provides a fascinating commentary on the points of interest as you travel. Hop on/hop off tickets are valid for 24 hours.

IF YOU ARE LINGERING FOR LONGER? Then you qualify for a trip to one of the spectacular villages, towns and visitor experiences within easy access of Bath. • Approximately 15 miles/24km The super-pretty village of Castle Combe (as seen in Steven Spielberg’s War Horse and the original film version of Dr Dolittle with Rex Harrison singing Talking to the Animals) represents the very meaning of the words ‘picturesque’ and ‘quaint’. • Approximately 17 miles/27km Even if you’re not a Harry Potter fan, Lacock Abbey – the interior of which doubled-up as the interior of Hogwarts in two of the Harry Potter films – is as enchanting and magical as the ancient, quintessentially English village of Lacock. • Approximately 22 miles/35km Wells (the smallest city in the UK) features a magnificent 13thcentury cathedral – surrounded by the unique, moated Bishop’s Palace. Meanwhile, Stonehenge, Westonbirt Arboretum, Longleat, Highclere Castle (aka Downtown Abbey), Glastonbury and Cheddar Gorge are all within easy access /drives from Bath. 

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FURTHER AFIELD

1. The magnificent Gothic façade of Wells Cathedral 2. Steeped in legend, the mysterious Glastonbury Tor looks over the mythical Isle of Avalon 3. The prehistoric standing stones of Stonehenge near Amesbury in Wiltshire 4. The picturesque village of Castle Combe

IMAGES: © Visit Britain, AdobeStock.com, TBM

5. The cloisters of Lacock Abbey, where many a scene from Harry Potter has been filmed

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GETTING AROUND

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MAP / PLACES TO VISIT IN BATH

WesTon road

Pulteney Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 ..

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ris To lr oa l d

To B r

PARKS

isto

Beckford’s Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ..

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Alexandra Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1. . nelson pl

ace

Sydney Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7. .

Herschel Museum of Astronomy . . . . . . . . . 3 ..

Botanical Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8. .

a Brid victori

To Bristol pin

Museum of Bath Stone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 ..

Thermae Bath Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 ..

Old Theatre Royal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 ..

Bath Rugby at the Rec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5. .

The American Museum & Gardens. . . . . .12 ..

Cleveland Pools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6. .

Victoria Art Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 ..

World Heritage Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7. .

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WALK THE CITY

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Average walking times:

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Bath Spa Station to Bath Abbey = 8 minutes Bath Abbey to Holburne Museum = 15 minutes Bath Abbey to Royal Crescent = 20 minutes

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Prior Park Landscape Garden. . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 ..

nham

Crazy Golf and Tennis Courts . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 ..

No. 1 Royal Crescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 ..

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Bath Racecourse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 ..

Museum of East Asian Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ..

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Museum of Bath at Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 ..

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OTHER ATTRACTIONS

Museum of Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 ..

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Holburne Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 .. Jane Austen Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 ..

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Hedgemead Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3. .

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

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HISTORICAL SITES

Map 280x215mm (This one).qxp_Layout 1 17/10/2023 16:28 Page 2

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MAP / PLACES TO VISIT IN BATH

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BATH THROUGH THE AGES Bath has a long and rich history – Melissa Blease takes a whirlwind tour through some of its key moments

Photograph, consecutively: Gorgon's Head of the Temple Sulis Minerva by Joyofmuseums; 19th century stained glass window in Bath Abbey depicting King Edgar of England being crowned, by Singinglemon; Beau Nash, photo by Michael Maggs; Ralph Allen by John Faber Jr, after Thomas Hudson. mezzotint

• 863 BC: According to the legend, having healed himself and his herd of pigs from leprosy by bathing in the hot mud irrigated by the naturally heated spring waters, Bladud – son of King Rud Hud Hudibras and tenth ruler of the Britons in line from the first King Brutus, (aka Brute of Troy) – takes his rightful title of King (and founder) of Bath.

• 1088: Benedictine monks take over the abbey and start to build a massive cathedral priory, complete with Bishop’s Palace. • 1090: John of Tours moves the episcopal seat to Bath, giving it city status. • 1137: Much of Bath is destroyed by a fire that ravages the city.

• 1657: The first regular coach service between London and Bath is established. • 1702: Queen Anne visits Bath, confirming the city as a fashionable destination and focal point for social activity outside of London. • 1742: Ralph Allen is elected mayor of Bath.

• 1499: Oliver King, Bishop of Bath and Wells, begins reconstruction of the now neglected abbey, which surrenders to the Dissolution of the Monasteries act in 1539.

• AD 43: The Romans arrive and name the city Aquae Sulis, after the goddess Sulis Minerva – a considerable urban settlement is created on the site to include grand temples and bathing complexes. • 577: The West Saxons win the Battle of Deorham and capture Bath, incorporating it into the Saxon petty kingdom of the Hwicce. • 878: Bath becomes a royal borough of Alfred the Great’s Kingdom of Wessex. • 973: Edgar, King of England 959–975, is crowned alongside his wife Ælfthryth at Bath Abbey by Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury.

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• 1576: The Queen’s Bath is built, with a drinking fountain installed in 1578. • 1590: Bath’s city status is confirmed by Queen Elizabeth I.

• 1755: The Royal Crescent, designed by John Wood the Younger, is completed and the Roman Baths are rediscovered following the demolition of the Duke of Kingston’s Abbey House. • 1704: Richard ‘Beau’ Nash is appointed Master of Ceremonies. • 1712: Entrepeneur and philanthropist Ralph Allen is appointed postmaster. • 1725: Architect John Wood the Elder develops an ambitious plan for his home town and presents them to Ralph Allen for consideration. • 1726: Allen begins buying up Combe Down and Bathampton Down Mines for building stone. • 1727: A gilt bronze head from a cult statue of Sulis Minerva is found by workmen excavating a sewer near the Roman Temple.

• 1761: Beau Nash dies, and the Corporation of the City fund a lavish, elaborate funeral. Nash is buried in the nave of Bath Abbey. • 1762–1764: Scientist and astronomer William Herschel arrives in Bath and Brock Street is built. • 1769: The Circus is completed; Pulteney Bridge is constructed. • 1771: The New (Upper) Assembly Rooms are built. • 1775–1777: The Hot Bath is built. • 1780: The Roman Great Bath is rediscovered by Major CE Davis while exploring a leak from the King’s Bath.

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• 1804: Construction of the New Theatre Royal on Beaufort Street/ Saw Close begins.

Penny Black postage stamp is used to send a letter by Thomas Moore Musgrave, postmaster of Bath.

• 1805: The Orchard Street Theatre closes its doors for good. The New Theatre Royal opens to the public.

• 1861: The Guildhall Market is built on a site that had been used for trading for more than 800 years.

Photographs, consecutively: Sir William Herschel and Caroline Herschel, colour lithograph by A. Diethe, ca. 1896; Portrait of Jane Austen, 1873; Mary Wollstonecraft by John Opie, National Portrait Gallery, London; "Penny Black" postage stamps, Metropolitan Museum of Art; Haile Selassie,Wikimedia Commons; Fashion Museum, Bath; Rooftop pool at the Termae Bath Spa

• 1862: The New Theatre Royal is destroyed by fire. The refurbished theatre opens again in 1863. • 1781: William Herschel makes the first observation of the planet Uranus from the back garden of his house in New King Street.

• 1865: Bath Rugby is founded by members of Lansdown Cricket Club as Bath Football Club.

• 1783–1784: The Cross Bath is built.

• 1893: The Holburne Museum opens on Charlotte Street.

• 1793: The devastating Bath bank crash causes temporary havoc to the construction industry. • 1795: Sydney Gardens opens as Bath Vauxhall Gardens, a commercial pleasure garden. The Grand Pump Room opens. • 1797–1798: The Cross Bath is developed and increases in size.

• 1816: Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley arrives in Bath. By December her writing on the novel Frankenstein was well underway. • 1830: Victoria Park is opened by 11-year-old Princess Victoria (later queen) as a private pleasure ground.

• 1936–1941: Haile Selassie, deposed Emperor of Ethiopia, is exiled in Bath.

• 1987: Bath is inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. • 1997: The Ustinov Studio opens at the rear of the Theatre Royal. • 2005: The egg, a venue for children’s, young people’s and family theatre, opens. • 2006: The Thermae Bath Spa opens to the public.

• 1831: Jolly’s on Milsom Street opens as The Bath Emporium, one of the very first department stores to open in the UK. • 1840: Isambard Kingdom Brunel builds the Bath Spa Train Station for the Great Western Railway. The First

• 1801: Jane Austen moves to Bath and stays in the city for almost five years. The Austens resided mostly in the newly built 4 Sydney Place, overlooking Sydney Gardens.

• 1923: The Roman hot plunge baths are excavated.

Museum of Costume (now the Fashion Museum); The Beatles play at Bath Pavilion.

• 2009: The SouthGate shopping centre and a brand new bus station opens. • 1938: The Assembly Rooms reopen after restoration. • 1942: Three German aerial bombing raids – part of the Baedeker Blitz – kill 417 Bath residents and destroy or badly damage the newly restored Assembly Rooms. • 1955: The Assembly Rooms reopen, incorporating the

• 2021: The City of Bath receives a second World Heritage Site inscription as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe. • 2022: Bath Abbey’s Footprint Project is completed, including the abbey’s historic floor being saved from collapse and underfloor heating powered by Bath’s hot springs.  POSTCARD from BATH / 23

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POSTCARDS

THE ROMAN BATHS Melissa Blease takes a tour of Bath’s most popular visitor attraction and discovers a world-class experience

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❝

Time may not stand still for the Roman Baths, but the defining purpose at the core of the complex remains the same

ON SHOW In 2021, a new area was unveiled at the Roman Baths. The Roman Gym (part of the main visitor journey around the Roman Baths) was renovated amongst newly excavated remains, and allows visitors access to a courtyard where Romans worked out before heading into the baths. The gym itself includes the remains of an ancient sauna (a laconicum) and one of the best preserved doorways from Roman British times, while projections showing how the Romans would have used the gym, and audio commentary explaining Roman workouts and the Roman attitude to health, wellbeing and medicine brings the whole area to fully authentic life. The state-of-the-art Clore Learning Centre – an ambitious restoration initiative (also part of the Archway Project) that allows school and community groups to learn all about history and heritage in a hands-on, accessible way – opened a year later and was unveiled at the same time at Bath World Heritage Centre, which offers a central point for visitors to find out about the citywide UNESCO World Heritage site’s hot springs, Roman remains, Georgian architecture, Georgian town planning, the social setting of the Georgian spa town and the city’s natural landscape setting. Time may not stand still for the Roman Baths, but the defining

Photographs: courtesy of Bath & North East Somerset Council. Main image by Colin Hawkins

THE GORGON’S HEAD

neo-classical salon within the Roman Baths complex. As Jane Austen – who moved with her family to Bath in 1801 for what her family deemed to be health benefits – wrote in Northanger Abbey, “every morning brought its regular duties: shops were to be visited; some new part of the town to be looked at: and the Pump Room to be attended, where they paraded up and down for an hour, looking at everybody and speaking to no one.” Both the Pump Room (which remains in use as a tea room and restaurant today) and the Roman Baths fortunately offer a far friendlier, more accessible welcome to contemporary visitors, centuries on – and the complex still remains very much a fully functioning, sparkling jewel in the city’s crown.

❝

espite Senator Tacitus describing the taking of the waters as “one of the luxuries that stimulate vice,” the Romans started the development of Aquae Sulis as a sanctuary of rest and relaxation some time after the Roman invasion of Britain in AD 43. Over the next three decades, they built a reservoir, a sophisticated series of baths and a temple dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva around the natural hot springs. The temple was constructed around 60–70 AD, and the bathing complex was gradually built up over the next 300 years. But after the Roman withdrawal in the first decade of the fifth century, the bathing complex fell into serious disrepair and was eventually lost to silting and flooding. The vaulted building around the spring collapsed into the waters in the sixth or seventh century, but the oak piles that were sunk into the mud continue to provide an integral part of the stable foundations today. The various street level aspects of the Roman Baths, The Grand Pump Room and the Stall Street entrance were designed in the 18th century by Thomas Baldwin and John Palmer, two of the leading architects of Georgian Bath who, alongside John Wood the Elder, John Wood the Younger, Robert Adam and John Eveleigh, are responsible for most of the Palladian-style architecture for which Bath is so highly regarded. Throughout the 18th and early 19th century, visitors flocked to fashionable, genteel Bath from far and wide to drink the mineralrich spring waters and socialise in the Grand Pump Room, the

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THE GREAT BATH

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A HYPOCAUST – AN UNDERFLOOR CENTRAL-HEATING SYSTEM

A DISPLAY OF THE BEAU STREET HOARD

The tablets are the only objects from Roman Britain to be included within UNESCO’s Memory of the World register, which aims to preserve, promote and protect written and audiovisual heritage while encouraging universal access to social history. YOUR VISIT A visit to the Roman Baths is a multi-textured, comprehensive experience offering broad appeal to all ages, tastes and interests. Even those who may not think they’re visiting Bath to learn more about the history of the Heritage City can’t fail to realise that it’s all around us, at every turn – and never more so than within the domain where Bath began. It is recommended that you allow between around 90 minutes up to 2 hours for your visit. Portable, fact-packed audioguides that can be stopped, started, and rewound according to your schedule and particular interests are included as standard in the admission price, including all-age guides and a children’s guide – or, take the popular Anglo-American travel writer Bill Bryson’s witty, incisive thoughts and observations on Roman life, history and society on the tour with you. While it may not be to everyone’s taste, at the end of your visit you have the opportunity to sample the hot natural spa water. Salute! 

 The Roman Baths, Abbey Church Yard, Bath BA1 1LZ

 The Roman Baths is open every day except 25 and 26 December.

 For specific seasonal opening times, admission prices, special events and accessibility details, visit the Roman Baths website.

 Tel: 01225 477785

 Web: romanbaths.co.uk

26 / POSTCARD from BATH

Photographs: courtesy of Bath & North East Somerset Council. Hypocaust image by Jon Craig

purpose at the core of the complex remains the same. The site’s permanent collection contains thousands of archaeological finds from pre-Roman and Roman Britain including a fairly recent addition known as the Beau Street Hoard, which was excavated by archaeologists on the site of the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel in Beau Street in 2007 and is today widely acknowledged to be one of the most remarkable archaeological discoveries ever to have been made in Bath: 17,655 Roman coins were found fused together in eight separate money bags and spanning the period from 32 BC– 274 ad. Elsewhere, exhibits range from the divine to the domestic. In the Temple Worship area of the museum, the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva, for example, is an ancient, awe-inspiring showpiece, while catching the eye of the imposing Gorgon’s head that glowers down from the top of the grand ornamental Temple Pediment (the temple itself being one of only two classical style temples in Britain, depicting the merging of local and Roman beliefs) is a curiously thrilling experience. Offering delightful contrast to the more dramatic exhibits on display, the brooches, combs, jewellery, glass bottles and general domestic paraphernalia discovered buried beneath the foundations of the present buildings offer a fascinating, evocative snapshot of everyday Roman life and create a strong link of familiarity between the past and the present. Meanwhile, the curiously moving Roman Curse tablets (‘defixiones’, inscribed on to small sheets of lead or pewter and believed to range in date from the second to the late fourth century ad) depict the private and personal prayers and wishes of 130 individuals and provide a uniquely personal insight into Roman life. Addressed to the goddess Minerva Sulis, many request stolen items be returned, but others are scarily malevolent, seeking more severe levels of justice be served: “Docimedis has lost two gloves and asks that the thief responsible should lose their minds and eyes in the goddess’ temple”.

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FASCINATING FACTS Pre-Covid, over 1 million people visited the Roman Baths every year. Hot water at a temperature of 46°C (114.8°F) rises at the Roman Baths at the rate of 1,170,000 litres every day. The spa water originally fell as rain around 10,000 years ago. It sank to a depth of around 2km below the earth’s surface, where it is geothermally heated before rising back up to one of Bath’s three springs: the Cross Bath Spring, the Hetling Spring or the King’s Spring, which supplies the Roman Baths. Bath spa water contains more than 43 minerals and trace elements, the most concentrated of which include calcium, magnesium, sodium and iron. The Great Bath holds 225,000 litres of water. The Temple of Sulis Minerva in Bath is one of only two classical temples known from Roman Britain, the second one being the Claudius Temple in Colchester. The tranquil Cross Bath – part of the grander Thermae Bath Spa complex but situated in an independent setting – is an official sacred site with ancient origins; some historians claim that, around 7,000 years ago, the site was occupied. Indeed, Mesolithic flints found in the spring support this and there was human activity all round the area. It’s impossible to estimate exactly how much the Beau Street Hoard (17,655 Roman coins) would be worth in real terms today. If you’d like to imagine going shopping Roman-style, an amphora of wine would have cost you 300 Sestertii, you could buy 200 pounds of flour for just one Aureus and a slave would set you back 500–1,500 Denarii. The terrace overlooking the Great Bath is lined with Victorian statues of Roman emperors and governors of Britain including Constantine the Great, Julius Caesar, Claudius and Hadrian. The statues on the terrace date to 1894, and were carved in advance of the grand opening of the Roman Baths in 1897. Visitors could still occasionally bathe in the Great Bath (and some of the smaller baths) up until 1978. However, following the discovery of a dangerous amoeba, which was active in the water, the baths were closed for bathing.

ENGAGEMENT AND WEDDING RINGS HANDMADE BESPOKE JEWELLERY REPAIRS AND REMODELLING

9 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY Website: www.jodycory.co.uk

Email: jody@jodycory.co.uk Telephone: 01225 460072

The spring water that supplies the Thermae Bath Spa today is drawn from new boreholes drilled beneath the King’s Spring and the Cross Bath between 1983–1985, and the Hetling Spring in 1998 and 2011. The water is tested weekly and is consistently declared safe.

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POSTCARDS

THE PERFECT CURVE The Royal Crescent is one of the most breathtaking architectural treasures, says Jessica Hope

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IMAGE: TBM

ith its 114 Ionic columns, honey-coloured stone and curved symmetry spanning 150m (500 ft), the Royal Crescent is one of the most majestic examples of 18th-century Palladian-style architecture in the UK, and as such it is protected by a Grade-I listed status. Between 1767 and 1775 architect John Wood the Younger designed and oversaw the construction of this magnificent semiellipse of buildings. His father John Wood the Elder had brought Palladianism to Bath with his developments in and around Queen Square (1725–1736) and the Circus (1754–1768). The Crescent was the final sequence in this architectural masterplan. Wood employed various builders on each of the 30 houses, and while he was particular about maintaining the dimensions and design across the façade, he allowed purchasers the freedom of budget to do what they liked inside and at the back. This is why the depth of the buildings and roof lines differ behind the Royal Crescent, and the windows are not all aligned. This architecture, often described as ‘Queen Anne fronts and Mary-Anne backs’, is an indication of the wealth of the initial owner. The Royal Crescent was the first crescent of terraced houses to be built ‘rus in urbe’ (country in the city) as it overlooked parkland and offered fashionable visitors city residences that had the same style and grandeur as the houses in their country estates. A Ha-Ha remains to this day – a ditch separating the upper and lower lawns mainly to keep grazing animals off the upper lawn, but is near invisible to anyone running down - hence the unsympathetic name. On completion, the Crescent became one of the most sought-after addresses in the city. It adopted the title ‘Royal’ at the end of the 18th century after Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany, had stayed there. Drawn by the Assembly Rooms and the thermal waters, by the late 18th century Bath had become a centre for the leisurely classes to take the waters, socialise, gamble and purvey the marriage market. To see and be seen was considered the most desirable of diversions and those in wealthy (and not so wealthy) society used Bath’s open spaces, such as the Royal Crescent, Circus and Queen Square, to promenade, meet their friends and gossip. Currently, of the crescent’s 30 townhouses, 10 are still full-size houses, 18 have been split into flats of various sizes, one is the No. 1 Royal Crescent museum, and the two central houses with the entrance at number 16 is the splendid Royal Crescent Hotel.

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POSTCARDS

THE MEN WHO BUILT BATH Melissa Blease digs deep into the architectural roots of Bath, and celebrates the pioneers responsible for creating some of the city’s most loved and distinct buildings

espite enduring a Roman invasion, being granted official city status more than nine centuries ago, and with a regular London coach service since 1657, Bath in the late 17th century was little more than a quiet market town with a population of just 2,000. But this was about to change. In 1702, Queen Anne visited Bath and publicly endorsed the medicinal, mineral-rich properties of the city’s spring water, declaring that it helped to ease her painful gout. She visited Bath regularly to take the waters with the aim of seeking a cure. Within two years of the royal visit, Richard ‘Beau’ Nash relocated to Bath from London to claim the mantle of Master of Ceremonies, presiding over the social and cultural events of a city that was turning into the UK’s most fashionable merrymaking zone. Eight years later, 17-year old Ralph Allen swapped his job behind the counter of his family’s post office in Cornwall to work as an assistant to the postmistress of Bath.

IMAGE: Hand-coloured line engraving of Prior Park and Ralph Allen's railway in 1750 from an engraving by Anthony Walker, courtesy of the National Railway Museum /Science and Society Picture Library

1750: PRIOR PARK AND RALPH ALLEN’S RAILWAY

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Allen soon became the youngest postmaster in the UK in 1712, at the age of 19. An instinctive entrepreneur and avid philanthropist, he went on to reform the country’s postal system by introducing a ‘signed for’ mail initiative to guarantee security, and improving speed and efficiency by no longer directing mail via London. In a move that exemplified his passion for enterprise, combined with an innate aptitude for logistics, in 1726 Allen used the small fortune he had made from revolutionising the postal system to purchase the quarries at Combe and Bathampton Downs, and built a railway to carry huge blocks of stone into the city. Around the same time, architect John Wood (born in Bath in 1704) had recently returned to the city from London, where he’d been involved with the Cavendish-Harley housing estate development in Mayfair. Wood the Elder discovered a natural affinity with Allen and they developed an ambitious plan for the architectural regeneration of Bath. Working closely together, the

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IMAGES (above, from left): John Wood the Elder courtesy of Bath in Time; Ralph Allen by John Faber Jr. Wikimedia Commons; Richard ‘Beau’ Nash by William Hoare, courtesy of Victoria Art Gallery, Bath and N.E. Somerset Council

JOHN WOOD THE ELDER

RALPH ALLEN

duo was largely responsible for the development of Georgian Bath. Combining his passion for Palladianism (after 16th-century Venetian architect Andrea Palladio) and his fascination with ancient British history, Wood the Elder’s overall vision was to turn Bath into ‘the Rome of Britain’, complete with a Circus Maximus and Forum. While the Corporation of Bath initially looked upon his grand designs as self-indulgent, they eventually conceded that Bath’s popularity was creating a need for accommodation for visitors and new long-term residents. Using Wood the Elder’s designs, work on Queen Square – named in honour of George II’s consort, Caroline – began in 1729; leading by example, perhaps, Wood the Elder took one of the centre houses for himself. While Queen Square was still a work in progress, Wood the Elder also undertook a commission from Allen to build a new home to display his new-found status. The pair chose a plot of land that lay just outside Bath’s original city boundaries to build Prior Park, an imposing Palladian mansion set in 28 acres and overlooking the city. Completed in 1743, the park was described by British author and man-about-town Philip Thicknesse as ‘a noble seat which sees all Bath, and which was built, probably, for all Bath to see’. While their partnership came to an end during the project, they remained firm friends. Allen used Prior Park to entertain influential personalities of the day including artist Thomas Gainsborough, theatrical impresario David Garrick and novelist and dramatist Henry Fielding. All of these he proudly introduced to Wood the Elder who, by 1728, had completed his first private commission in Bath, a new building for St John’s Hospital in the city centre. Wood the Elder’s greatest architectural gift to Bath had yet to be revealed. The Circus, named after the original Latin word for a circle or ring, comprised 30 terraced houses on an orbicular layout, divided into three sections of equal length, based around a central lawn. When viewed from the air The Circus, Gay Street and Queen Square form the shape of a key. This ancient masonic symbol shows Wood the Elder’s fascination with Freemasonry, a nonreligious fraternity established at the end of the 14th century by local stonemasons aiming to regulate fair interaction with clients. Freemasonry was described by one of the original founding

RICHARD ‘BEAU’ NASH

members as ‘a beautiful system of morality, veiled in allegory and illustrated by symbols’. Wood the Elder’s connections are further endorsed if you wander The Circus and see the frieze that runs along the elegant curved facades, decorated with 525 pictorial emblems including nautical symbols, swords, mythological and legendary beasts and representations of the arts and sciences. Wood the Elder never saw his most magnificent, ambitious work completed – he died three months after laying The Circus’ first foundation stone in 1754. But the family’s legacy doesn’t end there. John Wood’s son John was born in Bath in 1728 – the same year his father moved back to the city from London. From his early childhood, Wood the Younger was captivated by his father’s work. In 1749, when Wood the Elder temporarily relocated to Liverpool to oversee the initial stages of his design for the city’s new town hall, Wood the Younger went with him. After Wood the Elder died, Wood the Younger took over, building The Circus (completed in 1768) and Gay Street, which provided an elegant thoroughfare twixt The Circus and Queen Square. Over the coming years, Wood the Younger created a new architectural image for Bath, a bold, neo-classical style different to the more ornate, embellished frontages of his father. This is most sharply represented in Wood the Younger’s designs for buildings such as the Assembly Rooms, a U-shaped building based around a grand central aisle linking a Tea Room, Card Room, Ball Room and Octagon Room. This was purpose-built in 1771 to host the Assembly, an 18th-century entertainment venue. Wood the Younger’s ultimate masterpiece was Bath’s Royal Crescent, completed in 1774. The 500ft/150m elegant, sweeping curve of 30 grandiose terraced houses overlooking acres of pastoral paradise was later transformed into Royal Victoria Park. Exuding the discreetly luxurious glamour that Wood the Younger excelled in creating and renowned for its iconic architecture, the Royal Crescent was the first of its kind in the UK. It remains one of the most picture-perfect examples of Georgian architecture. Over the 18th century, Bath’s population grew to almost 30,000 as the city moved from market town into fashionable metropolis. Today, 83,000+ residents and thousands of annual visitors and tourists offer gratitude to The Men Who Built Bath.  POSTCARD from BATH / 31

THE SOUTH ELEVATION AT SUNRISE

IMAGES: AdobeStock.com and TBM

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THE LANTERN OF THE WEST Bath Abbey sits at the very heart of the city. Rich in history and a notable example of fine Gothic architecture, it is one of the city’s most inspiring sights for visitors and pilgrims. We look at its past, present and future

ne might expect the principal religious building at the heart of the city of Bath to be a cathedral, but the magnificent, imposing church is actually an abbey – and the original church, built in around 757 AD by the Anglo-Saxons, was once

a monastery. Bath Abbey is the third building to stand on the spot where Christians have worshipped for over 1000 years. Dedicated to St Peter and St Paul, the Abbey is historically important for many reasons, and world-renowned as the site where King Edgar, the first king of a united England, was crowned in 973 AD. Until that point, England had been a series of small kingdoms, each run by their own leader; Edgar’s coronation paved the way for the future unity of the nation of England. As you approach the Abbey from the impressive west front, one of the first things you’ll notice is the unusual stone carving, depicting angels climbing up – and tumbling down – a pair of ladders. This dates from the early 16th century, when Bishop Oliver King commissioned the building of a new abbey that was to be the forerunner of what we see today: the last great Medieval cathedral to be built in England. Bishop Oliver had a dream of angels ascending and descending into heaven – and duly incorporated his vision into the west front. Admirers of Gothic architecture will appreciate the Abbey’s dramatic flying buttresses and the many windows which allow the

interior of the building to be filled with natural light. At night, when the lights glow inside to welcome visitors, the Abbey can be clearly seen from the tops of the hills that surround Bath, earning itself the affectionate local nickname, the Lantern of the West. The dramatic fan-vaulted ceiling in the main nave replaced the original wooden ceiling and was part of Victorian architect Sir George Gilbert Scott’s restoration of the Abbey during the 1860s. Scott, who also designed the Albert Memorial and the grand station at St Pancras Station, was also responsible for the handsome, ornate chandeliers, which were originally gas fired before being converted to electricity in 1979. Original visitors to Bath Abbey would have been able to move freely around the nave, as it was not until the 19th century that wooden pews were installed, again at the behest of Gilbert Scott. As part of the recent renovation scheme for the Abbey, the pews – which were uncomfortable for long periods of sitting – were removed in order to free the space up for a variety of events and leaving the nave unadorned as it was in medieval times, or filled with seating when the occasion demanded it. Bath Abbey is unique for the plethora of memorial plaques on its walls and floors. Only Westminster Abbey has more wall tablets than can be found in Bath: there are 1508 memorials, with 617 on the walls and 891 laid into the floor. Not all the individuals commemorated are interred in the Abbey, but they or their families wanted a memorial to be placed here. Wander

THE WEST WINDOW AND FAN VAULTED CEILING

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the discovery centre, located in the ancient aBBey vaUlts oFFers a FascinatinG insiGht into its rich history

among the plaques and it quickly becomes apparent that it’s not only the lives of the wealthy and influential that are recorded; if you’re looking for a particular memorial stone, the Abbey’s volunteer guides are very knowledgeable. If you have a head for heights, regular Tower Tours offer a memorable view of the city. A guide will lead you up the 212 steps to the top of the tower, pausing in the magnificent, awe-inspiring bell-ringing chamber on the way up. The views from the top of the 45-metre tall tower are spectacular – it’s no wonder that this eyrie has become a popular spot for marriage proposals. BATH ABBEY’S FOOTPRINT PROJECT In recent years, Bath Abbey’s ambitious, multi-million pound Footprint Project protected and restored the historic fabric of Bath Abbey while bringing it into 21st-century service. The project started in May 2018 when the east end of the Abbey was closed off so that the collapsing floor could be stabilised, ecofriendly underfloor heating could be installed and the ledgerstones on the floor could be restored. When the first phase was completed and the east end reopened, the north side of the Abbey was closed to carry out the same work on the floor, heating and ledgerstones. A wealth of discoveries were unearthed during the archaeological digs (including a Medieval tiled floor that was in the Norman cathedral that once stood on the site of the current Abbey) and today, the Abbey has been opened up in new ways, securing its full glory for present and future generations of visitors. A new LED lighting system and underfloor heating powered by renewable energy from Bath’s famous hot springs has made the whole site far more energy-efficient. There’s a brand new Song School alongside meeting rooms and office space in Kingston Buildings (adjacent to the Abbey), as well as a brand new Learning Room that has transformed the Abbey’s facilities and opportunities for the Abbey congregation, Bath residents and the city’s visitors alike. The Learning Room is regularly used by visiting primary and secondary schools and is currently an integral part of the ‘warm spaces’ initiative across the city of Bath for the

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provision of English lessons for Ukrainian refugees. In March 2023 Bath Abbey’s Discovery Centre opened to the public. This unique heritage centre transformed the building’s newly excavated ancient vaults into a fascinating, accessible space that brings the Abbey’s history to life. Objects from the archives (including Anglo-Saxon crosses and Medieval fragments) are on display in the ancient vaults beneath the building, while interactive, immersive exhibits, videos, animated timelines and replica period costumes bring the history of this extraordinary building to vivid life for all ages. Meanwhile, the Abbey Shop has undergone a complete transformation, not to be overlooked! To maintain its high standard as a leading local heritage attraction and to remain a sustainable place for worship, the Abbey has moved from its suggested £5 entry donation to a £6.50 admission fee. Local residents and those visiting to pray, worship and attend services are welcomed at no charge and regular prayers throughout the day will remain, as will the current roster of services, details of which can be found on the Bath Abbey website. Today, Bath Abbey is used regularly for secular events, concerts, art installations and more, and is a renowned centre of musicmaking. It’s vital to remember, however, that it primarily remains a dedicated place of worship for its congregation and the Christian community. 

 Visit: Bath Abbey, Bath BA1 1LT Tickets: Adults £6.50, Students £5.50, Children (5–15) £3.50

 Open daily, Monday: 10.00am – 5.30pm, Tuesday: 9am – 5.30pm (6pm Saturday), Sunday: 1 .15 – 2.30pm and 4.30 – 6.30pm

 Information on the Tower Tours can be found online or by visiting the abbey shop.

 Web: bathabbey.org

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BOOKS ON BATH Bath has been the subject of a great many books over the years – Saber Khan from Topping & Co booksellers picks four of the best for those wanting to discover the authentic pulse of the city

SOMETIMES IN BATH, CHARLES NEVIN

BATH: PAINTINGS BY PETE BROWN, PETE BROWN (SANSOM & CO, £35), The artist Pete Brown is no stranger to the residents of Bath. He can often be spotted with his easel and oil paints on the local pavements, braving all weathers to capture the charm of this glorious city, earning him the name ‘Pete the Street’. Over 130 of Peter’s oil paintings and charcoal drawings are included in colour, accompanied by his anecdotes and experiences of painting in amongst the public on Bath’s streets and hills. It offers an insight into his method of working while dealing with all that plein air painting entails – all in Peter’s often humorous, always down-toearth voice. This coffee table book is the perfect gift for Bathonians, tourists and the many admirers of Peter’s work. Available from petethestreet.com

(THE BOOK GUILD PUBLISHING, £8.99) Sometimes in Bath is a warm and witty story-tour through the city’s history, conducted by award-winning journalist, author and humorist, Charles Nevin. Many of Bath’s much-loved historical figures spring to life in episodes shimmering with the curious magic of the enchanted city. Each story has an afterword distinguishing the fiction from fact, adding enthralling historical detail and giving visitors useful links to Bath’s many fascinations.

JANE AUSTEN IN BATH: WALKING TOURS OF THE WRITER’S CITY, KATHARINE REEVE (THE LITTLE BOOKROOM, £12.99) Back in 1900, Austen devotee Lord Issedligh asked: ‘Should we ever grow weary of reading and writing about her?’ The answer is an emphatic ‘no’, especially when presented with a book as good as this. We see Bath as Jane Austen knew it, as a young visitor, a resident and finally a writer. This beautifully illustrated guidebook thoughtfully weaves together the story of Jane Austen’s life in Bath with the stories of the unforgettable characters in her novels. The delightful walks are mapped out to take readers to Bath’s unique crescents, to its verdant pleasure gardens and ancient Roman spas, and to the majestic Pump Room and Assembly Rooms, site of the glittering balls where Austen’s heroines made their debuts.

THE SACK OF BATH, ADAM FERGUSSON (PERSEPHONE BOOKS, £16) Adam Fergusson wrote The Sack of Bath 45 years ago, a fierce and angry polemic directed at the then local officials’ plans to demolish large swathes of artisan housing while retaining set pieces such as the Royal Crescent. Hundreds of small Georgian homes were destroyed. Much more was on the way to being eradicated forever. The book helped to stave off much of the greater destruction, and not just in Bath but also on a greater national level – the fight to save Covent Garden was helped immeasurably by Adam Fergusson’s rage. This is certainly an important and influential book, and the fight continues to maintain Bath’s heritage in architecture and countryside.

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R O O M 7 Quiet Street Bath BA1 2JU T: 01225 330563 E: info@dressingroombath.com www.dressingroombath.com

IMAGE: The Roman Baths. With thanks to The Natural Theatre Company for enabling this interview with Flavia; naturaltheatre.co.uk

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CONVERSATIONS

FLAVIA: A ROMAN LADY Flavia is a Roman lady, born around 30 AD. Her husband Gaius Tiberinus commissioned the building of the Roman Baths in Aquae Sulis – Flavia loves to spend time there, and she has a large collection of sandals

an you tell us why you and your husband made your home in Aquae Sulis (Bath)? Well it’s so much cleaner here than smelly old Londinium, and of course you have the wonderful baths here! My husband Gaius Tiberinus actually commissioned them, you know, so in a way, you have me to thank. They truly are a marvel of this colonial backwater you call Britannia – the only self-heated baths this side of the Empire! The waters have their healing properties from the blessed power of the Goddess, so Aquae Sulis really is the place to be in Roman Britannia. Why did your husband fund the building of the Baths? Well Gaius has always had a nose for the next big thing, and when he heard about this healing spring near the Mendip Hills, he had this instinct it would be the perfect place to establish a bath house. You know, before we came along, it was little more than a muddy old puddle! The local Celts really had no idea how to harness the power of this spring, but we Romans are very good with water – you may have heard of our aqueducts? We’re jolly clever! As for Gaius’ role, well… to me, he’s the man who funds my caliga [sandal] addiction. He’s a government official, a procurator, so he’s in charge of the local money pots. Honestly, I’m not that interested, so long as he keeps the denarii rolling in. Where do you like to spend time in the Baths? The Great Bath itself. I love to submerge myself in the warm waters – being careful to keep my wonderful hair dry, of course – and relax with a cup of wine and some oysters. It’s where I catch up on the latest Aquae Sulis gossip with my lady friends. Though don’t believe anything Octavia Sabina tells you – she has a silver tongue! Have you ever commissioned a curse tablet? Of course! I mean, who hasn’t? It’s an unfortunate right of passage here. I had a glorious winter cloak that was taken from the apodytereum at the beginning of last spring. I was livid! Do you think life has improved in Aquae Sulis over the centuries? Well in many ways, it’s much the same as it was in my day with so many different languages spoken and people from across the globe making pilgrimage to the Baths. I’m not that fond of your carriages, though – far too noisy and smelly. Horses at least have a certain majesty, but these metal boxes are quite hideous.

We understand that you have some pretty wild parties during Saturnalia [Christmas]? Well I don’t much like that time of the year. I’m a creature of the warmth, and it gets so chilly and dark in Britannia over winter. I was born in the old capital of Camulodunum, but my blood yearns for the warmth of Italia. Saturnalia is the only highlight – I adore a good party! I already have my order in for peacock brains and the plumpest dormice they can import. Do you ever mix with the Iron Age Britons? Only when I have to. As the wife of an important politician, I have to help grease the wheels of our alliance with the Dobunni tribe. It makes life easier, even if they do have a bit of a pong. They bathe in the cold waters of the River Abona with this strange animal fat and ash mix… It looks revolting and can’t get them clean! Olive oil and a good sweat in the caldarium or nothing, that’s what I say! Have you ever met a Roman Emperor? Yes, Vespasian. Though, he wasn’t an emperor when I met him. He was just Titus Flavius Vespasianus, the legate of the second legion, Augusta. He’s actually a lot shorter in person than you’d think. How do you and your family manage your energy consumption? Darling, underfloor heating is the only way to go! It gets terribly cold here in Britannia during the winter months, and nothing can beat having warm feet. It really is worth it, even though the child slaves moan about getting into the crawl space to stoke the fires. Goddess Sulis Minerva or Father Christmas? Father Who? Oh, you must be referring to that new religion in the south of the Empire. One god? Ridiculous! No, no, of course Sulis Minerva is the best. I doubt this Father Christmas can heal aches and illnesses or possesses a fraction of her wisdom. What do you think of the people who come to the Baths, but don’t get in the waters? Well, they’re just missing out, aren’t they? It’s the ones who ask if they can drink the water that I find particularly odd. Why would you want to drink bath water? I suppose it takes all sorts. I just wish they wouldn’t bother me with their disgusting habits.  romanbaths.co.uk POSTCARD from BATH / 39

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CITY PLEASURES / COFFEE

THE TOP SPOTS FOR COFFEE Like many cities, Bath has no shortage of places to get a coffee and cake. We step back from the Costas & Cos to highlight some of our favourite places for a good ol’ cup of Joe and a delicious bite to eat.

re you a fan of a flat white? Or are you more of a caramel macchiato kind of person? Maybe you’re always in search of your morning espresso, or a mocha as your daily indulgence. Either way, everyone has their preferred brew and the Bath coffee scene is booming. With no signs of slowing down, an estimated 98 million cups of coffee a day are being consumed annually in the UK according to the British Coffee Association and a turnover of over £5 billion is predicted for 2023 by the World Coffee Portal. Whether it’s an early morning take-out, a mid-morning refreshment, or even an afternoon pick-me up, enjoying quality coffee has become an essential part of most people’s day, and Bathonians are no exception. Bath’s baristas serve up an estimated £16 million worth of espressos, lattes, cappuccinos and flat whites every year. But how do you choose where to go for your cup of good ol’ Joe? We’ve rounded up some of the city’s best cafés and delis to discover plenty of great coffee blends, fine pastries, yummy cakes and savoury snacks.

PULTENEY BRIDGE COFFEE 15–16 and 17 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AY These gorgeous coffee shops, comprising of two shops adjacent to each other, are situated right on the World Heritage Site of Pulteney Bridge. Enjoy really good coffee, while taking in the incredible, unique views (especially on clear days) of the river Avon flowing under the bridge below you and cascading over Pulteney Weir, and from your cosy seat you can enjoy the Georgian architecture of Grand Parade above. This family business offers a warm welcome with eatin and takeaway menus which include very popular homemade cakes and bakery treats. There are options for breakfast, lunch and afternoon cream teas, or simply just a coffee and a cake while you do some people watching. There is an extensive takeaway menu, including pasties, sausage rolls, sandwiches and baguettes, smoothies and crisps. Open 8.30am–5.30pm, Monday-Friday; 9am–6pm Saturday; and 9.30am–5.30pm on Sunday.

KNOOPS

WATCHHOUSE

21 Old Bond Street, Bath BA1 2LA Web: knoops.co.uk

8 Old Bond St, Bath, BA1 1BW Web: watchhouse.com

It’s hot chocolate season and what could be better than popping into Knoops for a fabulous cup of hot chocolate tailor-made to your exact liking. Newly opened in Bath, this British brand is revolutionising chocolate drinks with its unique and completely customisable chocolate percentage menu. Founded by international chocolatier Jens Knoop, who created the concept around Knoopology: the art of crafting the perfect chocolate drink. Once you’ve discovered your perfect cup, you can also buy a ‘Knoops Tube’ of your favourite chocolate flakes to make at home, or they do make great gifts too.

A popular and super-stylish independent coffee shop in London, WatchHouse has recently opened in Bath. It’s their first foray outside of the capital and with a huge range of artisan coffees, expertly crafted by the friendly Barristas or available to buy by the bag or pod, there’s something for every taste. Make yourself at home and experience an elevated take on classic dishes served alongside to-go offerings, including breakfast, focaccia sandwiches, salads and fresh bakes and delicious pastries made in-house daily. Enjoy great coffee and do try the brunch – the salmon, eggs, avocado on sourdough toast is quite sensational.

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CAFÉ LUCCA 1–2 Bartlett Street, Bath BA1 2QZ Web: cafelucca.co.uk Café Lucca revives and relaxes in equal measure. It serves wonderful food in a welcoming environment, offering freshly ground coffee and a light breakfast in the mornings, lunch from a selection of brightly coloured salads and bruschettas and panini, or for afternoon tea an array of tempting cakes. This is the perfect place for catching up with friends, or as a respite from shopping, and is one of Bath’s favourite places to see people and be seen. Deliciously fresh, modern Italianstyle/Mediterranean food is served in the elegant and spacious surroundings of The Loft. All the fresh produce and Italian products are from small local family suppliers. Based in a traffic-free street in Bath’s boutique quarter, the restaurant is just two minutes’ walk from Milsom Street and The Assembly Rooms, and when the sun shines there are tables outside from where one can watch the world go by.

QUIET STREET COFFEE 2 Quiet Street, Bath BA1 2JS A great coffee shop for a takeaway coffee and homemade cake. They also do a meal deal which is amazing value for money if you fancy having lunch in the nearby Queen Square or Victoria Park. Serving breakfast, lunch, tea and cake, the café can get busy so get there early. A beautiful shop with wonderful full-length windows, it’s an ideal place for stopping for a coffee break and watching the world go by. There is plenty of seating on the ground floor and an air-conditioned lounge downstairs – look out for the macaron wallpaper!

PICNIC COFFEE 9 Saracen Street, Bath BA1 5BR Web: picniccoffee.co.uk Just a few minutes walk from the main shopping street, Picnic is a laid-back coffee shop occupying a wonderful sunny spot on a corner. The staff here are warm and attentive and their welcoming smiles and friendly chat keep locals and visitors coming back time and again. Floor to ceiling windows make this the ideal place for gazing out onto the bustling streets, and also mean the venue receives fantastic light. Picnic is decorated in a contemporary style, with plenty of comfortable seating both inside and out. Bookshelves containing travel guides and holiday reads are ready to transport you to just about anywhere in the world. The open, light decor is complemented by the variety of speciality brews available from espresso to Aeropress, a selection of gluten-free and also vegan cakes, and housemade toasties. Tea drinkers aren't forgotten, with a good selection of Good & Proper loose-leaf teas on offer.

AND SOME MORE... ADVENTURE CAFE 5 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED Web: adventurecafebar.co.uk

SOCIETY CAFÉ 4–5 Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AB and The Corridor, 19 High Street, Bath BA1 5AJ Web: society-cafe.com

MOKOKO 6 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY and Web: mokokocoffee.com

CAFE AU LAIT 12–14 Dorchester Street, Bath BA1 1SS

HOLBURNE CAFÉ The Holburne Museum, Great Pulteney Street, Bath, BA2 4DB Web: holburne.org

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COLLECTIONS & TREASURES Dara Foley ventures off the well-worn tourist routes to discover Bath’s many specialist museums

ath has a wonderful, eclectic mix of independent specialist museums that will educate and stimulate the senses even more. Intelligent, intriguing and charming, they are certainly worth a visit; here are some little treasures that will make your experience of our city so much richer. NO. 1 ROYAL CRESCENT At one end of the magnificent sweeping curve of the Royal Crescent – surely Bath’s most photographed street – can be found a museum which gives us the chance to see what the home life of a fashionable Georgian household was like. No. 1 Royal Crescent, run by Bath Preservation Trust, has been painstakingly furnished and decorated just as it might have been during the period 1776–1796. Visitors can take a room-by-room journey around 18th-century life, from the lady’s bedroom and the parlour to the gentleman’s retreat. In addition to the fine furniture, glassware, china and silver, and the collections, which reflect the interests of the era in science and the natural world, there’s a recreation of a working kitchen in the basement, filled with archaic and fascinating cooking paraphernalia. Children can have a turn trying on costumes from the period and there is often a be-wigged doorman in full Georgian costume to welcome visitors outside the grand front door. Open Tuesday to Sunday No. 1 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LR Tel: 01225 428126 Web: no1royalcrescent.org.uk MARY SHELLEY’S HOUSE OF FRANKENSTEIN This attraction, set in a Grade II listed property, blurs the lines between museum and immersive visitor experience, extending over four atmospheric floors including the dank foreboding basement experience. Step into the world of Mary Shelley with a floor dedicated to uncovering her history and tragic life events, and confront the formidable 8ft monster recreated exactly as Mary imagined. Bursting with unusual artefacts and vintage items, interactive multi-sensory environments and assorted body parts, Mary Shelley’s House of Frankenstein delivers an unnervingly visceral, illuminating and entertaining experience. Open daily 37 Gay Street, Bath BA1 2NT Tel: 01225 551542 Web: houseoffrankenstein.com

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BATH ROYAL LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTE For those who fear the world is dumbing down, BRLSI (pronounced Brilsy) is an oasis of cultural refreshment. Located on Queen Square, it’s a prominent address but an unassuming institution, perhaps explained by the fact that it’s a charitable organisation run by volunteers. So there’s no flashy shop selling t-shirts and pencils, but there is a running programme of free exhibitions centred on promoting science, literature and art. The museum is fortunate in being able to call on its tens of thousands of objects in its collections to collate fascinating displays. Throughout the year there are knowledgeable lectures and talks from world-class experts on topics as diverse as fake news, Buddhism, nanoscience and climate change. Check out some of its collections in its online gallery. Open Monday to Saturday 16–18 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HN Tel: 01225 312084 Web: brlsi.org HERSCHEL MUSEUM OF ASTRONOMY In a quiet side street off Bath city centre lies a modest Georgian terraced house where astronomer William Herschel made history over 200 years ago. With his telescope in the garden of the home in New King Street that he shared with his equally gifted sister Caroline, Herschel discovered Uranus, a hitherto unknown planet. That discovery in 1871 was to influence future generations of space scientists. The late astronomer Sir Patrick Moore said that Herschel should be commemorated as the man who gave us our first understanding of an accurate shape of our star system, or galaxy. The small museum has some rooms furnished as they would have been in the 18th century, and its artefacts tell of a life filled with music-making and scientific exploration. Also, watch a short film about the Herschels and visit the 18th-century garden, where plants used in cooking and medicine were cultivated. Open Tuesday to Sunday 19 New King Street, Bath BA1 2BL Tel: 01225 446865 Web: herschelmuseum.org.uk JANE AUSTEN CENTRE More of an immersive curiosity than a museum, the Jane Austen Centre celebrates the author’s life and works with a permanent exhibition that explores her time in Bath and the influence that the city had on her books and the characters she created. Set in a

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MARY SHELLEY’S HOUSE OF FRANkENSTEIN

THE MUSEUM OF EAST ASIAN ART MING DYNASTY JADE PANEL

THE JANE AUSTEN CENTRE

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HERSCHEL MUSEUM OF ASTRONOMY

classic Georgian townhouse that’s decorated in classic regency-era style, and fit with the fashion and food to match, the museum offers a time-capsule glimpse into Austen’s personal life. Visitors will also meet many of the costumed guides that gallivant the corridors, such as the brilliant Martin Salter – AKA Mr Bennet, who remain in-character and make the experience enchanting and memorable. There’s also a chance to dress up in Regency clothing, and sample biscuits, scents of the era and even try a little writing with a quill and ink. After all that, take tea and possibly cake, with Mr Darcy in the centre’s Regency Tea Rooms. Open daily 40 Gay Street, Bath BA1 2NT Tel: 01225 443000 Web: janeausten.co.uk THE MUSEUM OF EAST ASIAN ART Bath is home to the only UK museum dedicated to the art and culture of East and South East Asia. It has a collection of exquisitely beautiful items, including ceramics, carvings, netsuke and jade, many of them thousands of years old. It is a place to quietly focus on the details of form and colour and to marvel at the craftsmanship imbued in these pieces. The museum has an excellent shop – great for gift buying – and regularly runs family friendly events and craft sessions. Open Wednesday to Saturday 12 Bennett Street, Bath BA1 2QJ Tel: 01225 464640 Web: meaa.org.uk

BECKFORD’S TOWER While this monument is currently closed due to building works, it should still be mentioned as part of Bath’s heritage. William Beckford was an eccentric with a troubled personal life (shunned by society for his sexual predilections) and a wealthy man with a vision, who enjoyed collecting unusual treasures and overseeing the construction of remarkable buildings. Beckford’s Tower, built in 1826–27, can be seen for miles around, standing in a commanding position on the Bath skyline at Lansdown, its ornate lantern with gold-painted columns glittering in the sunshine. The tower itself – run by Bath Preservation Trust – is a glorious 19th-century folly, 36.5m (120 ft) high and full of atmosphere. Once open visitors can take the 154 steps up the stone spiral staircase inside and enjoy what must surely be the finest views of Bath from the belvedere. On the first floor there is a small museum dedicated to the life and career of Beckford, of which this tower in Bath is the sole survivor. The eerie character of the stone gates and the elaborate detail on the tower is enhanced by being set in a cemetery, where lie the graves of many of Bath’s illustrious former residents. Closed until further notice, as works to transform the museum, restore the Tower and reconnect the landscape take place. Lansdown Road, Bath BA1 9BH Web: beckfordstower.org.uk OLD THEATRE ROYAL AND MASONIC MUSEUM It’s easy to miss this ordinary looking building, yet behind the modest front door lies a fascinating history dating back to 1750. This museum reveals the story of the first purpose-built theatre in Bath. Originally named the St James Theatre, it soon became the first Theatre Royal outside London with star performers such as William Dimond and Sarah Siddons attracting sell-out audiences. As the population of Bath grew towards the end of the 1700s, its limitations were obvious and a new location for the theatre was found in Beaufort Square, the site now occupied by the Theatre Royal Bath. The Theatre Royal and Masonic Hall are open to the public on selected days with guided tours available to give you an insight into the history of the theatre, the building and freemasonry in general. Opening times vary, check website for details 12 Orchard Street, Bath BA1 1JU Tel: 01225 462233 Web: oldtheatreroyal.com BATH WORLD HERITAGE CENTRE

THE MUSEUM OF BATH AT WORK Bath was once a thriving hub of industry, making goods that were shipped around the world. This unusual museum is dedicated to the centuries of Bath’s working heritage. Highlights of the collection include a recreation of a 19th-century soft drinks bottling plant, J.B. Bowler, which once operated in the city, and a Horstmann car from 1914, one of the earliest motor vehicles, also made in Bath. The museum is a great place for Bathonians to learn more about their heritage, and for visitors to look at how our ancestors used to make things. For many it will also offer the experience when history collides with our own memories of past technology. Open daily Julian Road, Bath BA1 2RH Tel: 01225 318348 Web: bath-at-work.org.uk

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The city of Bath is one of only two entire cities inscribed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites, the other being Venice. Bath World Heritage Centre celebrates the city’s unique cultural offering and gives an insight into what makes the city so special. Find out more about the city’s attributes of Outstanding Universal Value: the hot springs, Roman remains, Georgian architecture, Georgian town planning, the social setting of the Georgian spa town and the city’s natural landscape setting. You can explore interactive exhibits and displays designed to inspire, excite and inform. Discover free walking trails and guides and a specially designed mobile app to help you explore everything Bath has to offer. Open daily. 10 York Street, Bath BA1 1NH Tel: 01225 477785 Web: bathworldheritage.org.uk 

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POSTCARDS

THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS The Assembly Rooms were at the heart of Bath society in the 18th century, its magnificent rooms a backdrop for dancing, card playing, tea drinking and lively conversation. Melissa Blease tells us more

esigned by John Wood the Younger in 1769 as an entertainment complex and meeting place, the Assembly Rooms were once the epicentre of fashionable Georgian society, featuring a ballroom that is the largest Georgian interior in the city. Corinthian columns, crystal chandeliers, ornate swags, red carpet: the Assembly Rooms epitomised the extravagant Georgian experience and in the late 18th/early 19th century, the glitterati would promenade their way to Bennett Street to see and be seen. It’s fitting, then, that the Assembly Rooms was once home to the fabulous Fashion Museum, but history is not standing still for either the Fashion Museum nor the Assembly Rooms themselves. The Assembly Rooms have recently returned to the management of the National Trust who have temporarily closed the doors while work is underway to develop a new Georgian experience, due to open in 2026. During the refurbishment, the National Trust/The Assembly Rooms will still host a variety of partner events allowing access to the building and, from August 2023, visitors will be able to take a guided tour behind-the-scenes. And you can still stroll around the exteriors of this remarkable Georgian Bath landmark, where history still comes to vivid life. HISTORY Opened in 1771, the Assembly Rooms were purpose built to host an 18th-century form of entertainment known as the Assembly: ‘a stated and general meeting of the polite persons of both sexes for the sake of conversation, gallantry, news and play.’ The U-shaped building is designed around a grand central aisle that links a Tea Room, Card Room, Ball Room and Octagon room. A Georgian pleasuredome, no less. The Assembly Rooms attracted mothers and chaperones who bought single young ladies to Bath for the social season. Many a relationship ‘deal’ was struck at one of the balls and concerts, often attended by around 800 young ladies and gentlemen. The dramas behind the scenes were featured in Jane Austen’s novels, Northanger Abbey and Persuasion. And in Charles Dickens’ The Pickwick Papers (1837): “the hum of many voices and the sound of many feet were perfectly bewildering. Dresses rustled, feathers waved, lights shone, and jewels sparkled.” Since their heyday, the Assembly Rooms have endured many challenges before being once again restored to the pre-eminent position the address holds on Bath’s history trail today. During the 19th century, Bath’s reputation as a fashionable destination began to lose its shine and the Assembly Rooms lost

their lustre. During the First World War, the building was occupied by the Royal Flying Corps and the ballroom was eventually turned into a cinema. Between the First and Second World Wars, the rooms were briefly redecorated, restored to their former glory and reopened by the Duchess of Kent in 1938. Sadly, however, on 4 April 1942, the area was heavily bombed during the Baedeker Raids and the Assembly Rooms were reduced to a roofless, crumbling shell. But all was not lost! After extensive restoration in the 1970s, the Assembly Rooms as a whole was fully restored to its former glory... and those glory days are all set to be given yet another whole new lease of life. 

 The Assembly Rooms, Bennett Street, Bath BA1 2QH Web: nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/bath-bristol/bathassembly-rooms

 The Fashion Museum is in the process of relocating from the Assembly Rooms to new premises, but you can view the collection online: fashionmuseum.co.uk

THE BALLROOM IN THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS

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ICARUS

SILVER JEWELLERY

Icarus Jewellery is an independent silver jewellery shop located in the heart of Bath, on Pulteney Bridge and offers a great selection of handmade unique designs from their store and online shop. Icarus Jewellery has recently released the Icarus Gift Card which can be purchased on their website. The boutique also offers UK and international shipping.

3 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA24AX 01225 463693 www.icarusjewellery.com instagram.com/icarusjewellery

facebook.com/icarusjewellery

Opening Times: 1 Jan 2023 - 31 Dec 2023 Monday-Friday 9:30am - 5:30pm Saturday 9:30am - 6pm Sunday 10am - 5pm

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BATH IN TV & FILM From Sense and Sensibility to Bridgerton and The Pursuit of Love to Sherlock, Bath’s heritage and picturesque locations continue to make a big mark on TV and film screens. Melissa Blease rolls the credits REGENCY ROMPS “The dash of carriages, the heavy rumble of carts and drays, the bawling of newspapermen, muffin-men and milkmen, and the ceaseless clink of pattens...” That’s how Jane Austen described Lady Russell’s experience of driving through Bath in her 1817 novel Persuasion. Over two centuries on, the carts, drays, muffinmen and pattens are long gone – or are they? At least three adaptations of Persuasion have been filmed in Bath, most recently the thoroughly modern and controversial 2022 Netflix version starring Dakota Johnson. The BBC’s 1995 version proved to be more favourable with critics, but the supreme winner was the BBC’s three-part adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, which came out in the same year and starred Colin Firth as Fitzwilliam Darcy... most memorably, perhaps in that wet shirt scene, although this was not filmed in Bath. The BBC/A&E Network 1987 adaptation of Northanger Abbey was, though – and the Sky Arts/Giles Coren 2017 documentary I Hate Jane Austen. Key Austen-related film and TV backdrops include the Royal Crescent, Sydney Place, Abbey Churchyard, Abbey Green, The Pump Room, Old Bond Street, The Assembly Rooms, Bath Street, North Parade Buildings and Gravel Walk. Director Mira Nair’s 2004 adaptation of William Makepeace Thackeray’s 1848 novel Vanity Fair (starring Reese Witherspoon alongside a host of iconic stage/screen superstars) gave us Nick Briggs/Netflix © 2020

bountiful, big screen Bath in abundance. Four years later, Saul Dibb’s 2008 historical drama The Duchess worked similar Bath blockbuster magic as Keira Knightley, Ralph Fiennes, Charlotte Rampling and Dominic Cooper starred as groovy Georgians trotting their well-heeled stuff in various locations across the city, most notably The Assembly Rooms and The Holburne Museum, at the apex of gracious Great Pulteney Street. Talking of which... Are you familiar with Bridgerton’s Lady Danbury's exquisite home in an upper-class corner of 19th century London? Well, that’s The Holburne too! Since 2020, the very word Bridgerton (the huge Netflix historical fiction/romance smash hit) has become synonymous with Bath: all the exterior shots of the Featherington family’s fabulous house were filmed on the Royal Crescent, while Gunter's Tea Shop, Lady Dee’s Hat Emporium, the Modiste Dress Shop, the Horse and Hop Pub, the market’ and Siena Rosso's humble abode were all variously shot around Abbey Square, Abbey Green and Beauford Square. Bath reprised its role in the Bridgerton franchise in the 2023 prequel series Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story, and the Bridgerton benediction is set to continue; the cast and crew were spotted filming for season 3 in Bath in January 2023.

JONATHAN BAILEY IN THE SECOND SERIES OF BRIDGERTON, FILMED IN PRIOR PARK GARDENS

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LIGHTS, CAMERA – DRAMA! Tom Hooper’s epic, multi award-winning 2012 musical film version of Victor Hugo’s 1862 novel Les Miserables beautifully recreated the sights and sounds of 19th-century Paris... in Bath. Remember the dramatic moment when Javert/Russell Crowe throws himself off the Pont au Change into the River Seine? It was neither the Pont au Change nor the River Seine; the scene was filmed on Pulteney Bridge and Bath Weir. Less dramatic, perhaps, but equally moving, the title character in Hettie Macdonald’s 2023 film adaptation of Rachel Joyce’s whimsical, poignant 2012 novel The Unremarkable Pilgrimage of Harold Fry (starring Jim Broadbent) passes through Bath city centre during his epic walking journey from South Devon to Berwick-upon-Tweed. FANTASTICAL FICTION On a rainy autumn day in October 2021, Parade Gardens, Pulteney Bridge and Pulteney Weir were transformed into a magical snowy backdrop for key scenes in Paul King’s Wonka starring Timothee Chalamet. The film’s narrative acts as a prequel to both Roald Dahl’s 1964 novel Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and its original 1971 film adaptation and is due to

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premiere in December 2023. In 2009, Bath’s Little Theatre Cinema (St Michael’s Place) was immortalised in another magical Roald Dahl spectacular: Wes Anderson’s stop-motion classic, Fantastic Mr. Fox. SMALL SCREEN, BIG IMPACT It would probably be easier to list the few remaining corners of Bath that haven’t been used as a backdrop across four seasons of quirky ITV detective drama McDonald and Dodds. And, being on contemporary drama territory, locations from the grand (Queen Square; the Royal Crescent; Royal Victoria Park) to the functional (the city council meeting rooms at The Guildhall; the council-leased allotments; Bath Leisure Centre) by way of various popular Bath watering holes including The Bell Inn (Walcot Street) are all clearly recognisable. You might not think that McDonald’s in SouthGate is a prime location, but the fast food giant filmed its spectacular 2017 Christmas advert complete with snowflakes and Christmas trees here. Elsewhere, key scenes in Emily Mortimer’s wild’n’witty adaptation of Nancy Mitford’s 1945 novel The Pursuit of Love (BBC, 2021) were filmed around No 1 Royal Crescent and Green Park Station; the Assembly Rooms took centre stage as the grand Brussels ball scene in ITV’s 2020 historical drama Belgravia; the

Mammoth Screen for ITV

NIKKI AMUKA-BIRD AS LADY RUSSELL AND DAKOTA JOHNSON AS ANNE ELLIOT IN PERSUASION, FILMED IN BATH STREET

TALA GOUVEIA AND JASON WATKINS IN MCDONALD AND DODDS, SERIES 1, IN THE COUNCIL ALLOTMENTS

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Robert Viglasky / Theodora Films / © BBC Pictures

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Lacock Abbey also doubled-up as the interior of Hogwarts in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (2001) and Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets (2002). Both the Abbey and the village featured in Fantastic Beasts: Crimes of Grindelwald (2017); His Dark Materials (BBC, 2019); Cranford (BBC 2007–10); Pride and Prejudice (BBC, 1995) and Justin Chadwick’s 2008 historical drama The Other Boleyn Girl. Dyrham Park (9 miles/14km north of Bath) is no stranger to period dramas either; this imposing National Trust property has enjoyed various big-screen roles including close-ups in James Ivor’s elegant 1993 tear-jerker The Remains of the Day (1933), John Alexander’s Sense and Sensibility (2008) and ITV’s 2019 historical drama Sanditon. The DP mansion was also spotted as the exterior of Warleggan House in Poldark (BBC, 2015-2019)... and there was more Poldark at Bath’s Prior Park College for a ballroom scene, in Corsham (8 miles/13km south west of Bath) and Wells (around 22 miles/35km north-east of Bath), most notably Wells Town Hall, which had a starring role as Warleggan Bank. 

LILY JAMES IN THE 2021 VERSION OF THE BBC’S PURSUIT OF LOVE, FILMED IN OLD GREEN PARK STATIION

Guildhall doubled-up as London’s Old Bailey court rooms in the BBC’s 2019 series The Trial of Christine Keeler; and Benedict Cumberbatch strutted his Sherlock stuff on the ancient cobbles of Queen Street when it was transformed into a Victorian-era street market for the BBC’s 2015 Sherlock Christmas Special. At the time of writing, Stardom Films brand new romcom movie One Night in Bath is being filmed in various locations around the city. AROUND AND ABOUT Several scenes in Steven Spielberg’s 2011 powerful World War I epic film War Horse were filmed in the village of Castle Combe (9 miles/14km north east of Bath). You might also recognise the ancient, picturesque bridge from its close-up as a backdrop in the original film version of Dr Doolittle (1967), while pivotal scenes in Matthew Vaughan’s 2017 adventure film Stardust were filmed here. Meanwhile, the village of Lacock (15 miles/24km east of Bath) is as picture-perfect as ancient, quintessentially English villages get and film production companies agree. Lacock Abbey was turned into Wolf Hall in the BBC’s adaptations of Hilary Mantel’s book and the sequel Bring Up the Bodies, while Great Chalfield Manor and Garden (down the road from the Abbey) starred as Austen Friars, home of Thomas Cromwell.

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TIMOTHÉE CHALAMET STARRING IN PAUL KING’S WONKA, FILMED IN BATH IN 2019. WONKA WILL BE RELEASED IN CINEMAS IN DECEMBER 2023.

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GIFTS from BATH

Looking for a little souvenir? Here’s a few ideas to take your fancy

BATH SOFT CHEESE Available from: The Fine Cheese Co., 29 & 31 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN Web: finecheese.co.uk Made at Park Farm in Kelston, this is a mild and creamy, organic, brie-style cheese made to an original 19th-century recipe. The flavour is mushroomy and creamy with a hint of lemons. It comes wrapped in parchment paper with a red wax seal. Bath Soft dates back to the time of Admiral Lord Nelson who in 1801 was sent some by his father. It was recorded that Nelson’s sweetheart was ‘gratified’ by the flavour of this cheese! £10.13 (250g)

BATH AQUA GLASS 15 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1NA 105–107 Walcot Street Bath BA1 5BW Web: bathaquaglass.com Taking inspiration from the city’s spa waters, Bath Aqua Glass is based on Roman designs and contains copper and iron oxide to give it a beautiful aqua hue. Available in both the shop opposite the Roman Baths and the studio in the Artisan Quarter of Walcot Street of Bath where you can see glass-blowing daily.

ROMAN COIN JEWELLERY Jody Cory Goldsmiths 9 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY Web: jodycory.co.uk Local girl, Jody Cory has handmade a range of jewellery to celebrate her home town. Made at her Abbey Churchyard store, the Memories of Bath range includes angels climbing the abbey, UK pendants with a small diamond putting Bath on the map, fob pendants and bracelets featuring a map of Bath, and Bath charms. Shown here is the Roman coin range. Jody’s grandfather was an engineer in the city and while working at the Pump Room, he found a few Roman coins. As Jody recalls: “I remember as a child how special they were, and I was interested in the history of our amazing city. I guess I take after him in a small way by continuing to work in metal. Only this time, I use precious metals and work on a smaller scale.” While they can’t make original Roman coin jewellery, the WRL stamp on each piece shows it is a replica from an original coin. Jody was inspired to make a range for locals and visitors to celebrate our wonderful city.

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BATH GIN 2–3 Queen Street, Bath BA1 1HE Web: thebathgincompany.co.uk The modern, exotically smooth and refreshing Bath Gin is distilled and bottled using the finest botanicals from across the world. Made in Bath by The Bath Distillery. 70cl, 40% Vol. £36.50.

UP TO SEVEN 6 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Web: uptoseven.co.uk Designed by Up to Seven and handmade in Bath this children's knitted black, blue and white stripe hat makes the perfect gift for any Bath Rugby fan! These adorable, roll edged hats are all knitted in anti-tickle wool, and can be machine washed at 30 degrees.

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JANE AUSTEN BOOKWORM BAG Bluebells of Bath, 16 Cheap Street, Bath, BA1 1NA Web: bluebellsofbath.com

WADSWICK COUNTRY STORE

Made by Yoshi, this gorgeous grab bag features the book spines and silhouette of one of our favourite authors. The lining inside is a fun grey with Yoshi branding. Made from 100% genuine leather and the lining is 100% cotton. Bag measures 31 x 22 x 9.5cm. £89

HOLBURNE GIFTS The Holburne Museum Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB Web: holburne.org

1 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Web: wadswick.co.uk Holland Cooper Chiltern Cape, Tawny, £679. Wadswick’s collection of Holland Cooper Tweed is the epitome of classic British heritage. Meticulously crafted and precisely tailored to provide both warmth and style, the Holland Cooper Chiltern Tweed Cape blends traditional elegance with contemporary sophistication. Made in Britain with premium British tweed.

Exclusive to the Holburne, these beautiful cork-backed coasters have been specially commissioned by top designers People Will Always Need Plates. Perfect for fans of the Museum (aka Lady Danbury’s House) and Bridgerton enthusiasts. £20 for a set of four. There’s also mugs and plates and many more cool gift ideas in the Museum shop.

BATH RUGBY SHOP 1 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BA Web: bathrugbyshop.com An absolute must for any visitor to Bath. Take home some blue, black and white with a Bath Rugby replica ball. At the shop you will also find a full range of fantastic gifts and merch including the personalised Bath Rugby shirt option which can be ordered and delivered to you... by airmail if need be.

BATH ABBEY GIFT SHOP Bath Abbey, Bath BA1 1LT Web: bathabbey.org Located on the south side of Bath Abbey, the Bath Abbey Shop offers a wonderful range of products inspired by the stories of the Abbey; from its beginnings as a Benedictine monastery to the coronation of the first King of all England to the present day. Featuring work by many local artists, the shop also has a special focus on Christian women and their small businesses. Alongside the core product lines and an excellent selection of Christian books, there are special souvenirs for different times of the year. Shown here is a Bath Abbey china mug, £14.

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KATIE VANDER WOERD

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CONVERSATIONS

THE FINE JEWELLERY DESTINATION Let us introduce you to Mallory, the oldest jewellers in Bath who are celebrating their 125th anniversary. The great-great-grandaughter of the original owner, Katie Vander Woerd gives us some insights into the business...

allory’s history began in Bath in 1898 when Edward Palmer Mallory, Katie Vander Woerd’s great-greatgrandfather, took over Routley the jewellers. “According to the 1891 Census, Edward Palmer Mallory began his career working as a ‘Jewellers Assistant’ in Cheltenham. He later moved to Bath gaining employment at Routley the jewellers at No. 1 Bridge Street and in the summer of 1898 he bought the business which became E.P. Mallory & Son. In the ensuing years and helped by his wife Mrs M.T. Mallory, the couple grew the business until it became a central part of commerce in the city, with people travelling from miles to buy jewellery.” Ladies used to come to Bath to take the waters in the early years of the shop and came in to buy silver tea sets. “During the late 19th century the pause for afternoon tea became a fashionable social event. For high society, the afternoon tea table was one of great opulence and refinement. Tea drinking for the upper class came with a whole host of accessories – fine porcelain teacups and saucers, decorative silver teapots, mahogany tea caddies, silver tea urns, exquisite table linens and personalised tea blends. At that time silverware was highly valued for its craftsmanship, intricate designs, and the intrinsic beauty of silver and was desired by the gentry. E.P. Mallory & Son would hand-deliver fine silverware to many of the great and the good of Bath, as well as serving those who visited the Bridge Street showroom.” Over the past 125 years the business has embraced world wars and recessions, changing fashions, seasons and trends – all of which led the business to change and evolve. ”One of the most significant changes in 2005 saw the opening of our now dedicated watch department. My father, Robert Vander Woerd, had the foresight to predict the growth of the watch industry and to expand this area of our business, making us the first jeweller outside London to bring a multi-brand offering to a retail business, representing some of the finest luxury watch houses in the world. Our unique offering of fine jewellery, high end timepieces and luxury accessories made us a true shopping destination.” Katie Vander Woerd came into the business ten years ago. “I was happy and proud to join the company and to be part of this fastpaced and fascinating industry. It’s often about carving a niche for yourself, harnessing the skills and talents you have and deciding how they can bring value. As the fifth generation, I feel immensely privileged to be able to continue to build on the heritage, brand and family values that have been created.”

Mallory is one of the most prominent jewellers in the country. “We are one of the largest independent familyowned and run jewellers in the UK today – there are not many left like us! We employ around 40 staff and the Mallory premises spans six Georgian buildings – so a lot happens behind the scenes! At the top of the house, we have dedicated state-of-the-art workshops where you will find our our accredited watchmakers and technician who service and maintain timepieces, as well as two talented goldsmiths who produce our beautiful Mallory creations and repair and restore fine jewellery.” We have a team of people who have been in the trade for a long time and have acquired a wealth of knowledge over the years. An important part of the watch and jewellery world is to pass on knowledge and expertise in the different specialisms, whether that’s antique jewellery, watches, gemmology, valuations, jewellery manufacturing or watch-servicing.” Is there a secret to the success of the business? “We are a personal business, and we believe in offering a unique and personal experience. We never compromise on our standards or values. As a family company we are in control of our own destiny. Bath is a special place, and we feel fortunate that Edward Palmer Mallory chose to reside here. Our customers come from all over the world, but our home is here in Bath – we have a deep sense of our heritage in this wonderful city. Clients come to us to buy something special. We are here to impart our knowledge and guide... and hopefully make dreams come true!”  Mallory, 1-5 Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AP; 01225 788800; Web: mallory-jewellers.com

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LOOKING UP The Circus features three Classical orders (Greek Doric, Roman/Composite and Corinthian) one on each ﬂoor

THE DRESSING ROOM, QUIET STREET

REAL RETAIL, REAL PLEASURE

BATH AQUA GLASS

JOLLY’S, MILSOM STREET

MALLORY, BRIDGE STREET

THE CORRIDOR

WADSWICK COUNTRY STORE, PULTENEY BRIDGE

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ENJOY / SHOPPING

Bath’s best shops

A CITY OF GREAT SHOPS Whether you crave a fast fashion fix courtesy of the biggest high street names or fancy an elegantly paced, inspirational browse around an eclectic range of independent traders, Bath offers a unique blend of shopping experiences. Melissa Blease guides us through the streets paved with shops

IMAGES: TBM

reat shops are a primary reason why people love to visit Bath, shop in Bath, and choose to work or live in Bath. Interesting, designer, luxurious, cool, or just downright eccentric, our independent shops sell beautiful things with a customer service that is rarely found elsewhere. There’s a compelling argument that indirectly these indie emporiums and little shops contribute more to the city’s economy than the high street chains. While broader market forces continue to challenge retailers, Bath remains one of the finest shopping destinations in Europe. WALK THIS CITY One of the best aspects of Bath’s commercial centre is that everything is easily walkable – in no more than 30 minutes you could make one end to the other. To really enjoy the city, however, you need to meander down little streets, get slightly lost, find beautiful shops and make purchases by happenchance. So let the joy begin... To help you get your bearings, let’s start at the south end of town, the spacious SouthGate area – just across the road from Bath Spa train and coach stations. This is home to multiple shopping opportunities including familiar high-street stores such as Apple, Boots, Urban Outfitters, Oliver Bonas, Tommy Hilfiger, Hollister and H&M are at the heart of one of the west country’s glossiest shrines of merch – Heads up... Zara will be opening soon. As you stroll along the swanky pedestrianised thoroughfares that lead north from the SouthGate complex, a myriad of independent retailers, market traders and buskers happily sit alongside branches of M&S, Primark, Clarks, COS and more, contributing to the unique retail landscape of which Bath stands proud. The further up town you go, the many stylish shops and watering holes towards the northern aspects of the city centre tend to be housed in the kind of historic buildings that make Bath so unique. Around and about the centre of town, there’s a picturesque conurbation of cute little passages and byways. Both the supercharming Northumberland Passage and the uniquely pretty undercover arcade The Corridor flaunt an enchanting selection of independent shops. The wares include must-have accessories, quirky galleries, a branch of organic remedy and skincare specialists Neal’s Yard, and a number of long-established, Bath-based goldsmiths and jewellers such as the Gold and Platinum Studio and Nicholas Wylde’s enticing emporium. Between them is the Coeur de Lion, officially the smallest pub in Bath. For the gentleman about

town, if a quick haircut or wet shave is needed then a Turkish barbershop adds a lively dash of international character. Across the main shopping street at the bottom of Northumberland Passage and The Corridor, and you’ll find yourself bang on track for a bustle around the historic Guildhall Market (read on to find out more) on the High Street. Amble through the market, exit via Grand Parade, and you’ll find yourself taking in the spectacular weir views, adjacent to... Ah, Pulteney Bridge: Bath’s very own, utterly enchanting version of Florence’s Ponte Vecchio. The bridge was designed in 1769 by Robert Adam, opened to the public in 1770 and is today lined with a fascinating collection of unique shops including an antique map shop, children’s clothing specialist Up-to-Seven, a gorgeous flower shop (Pulteney Bridge Flowers), the curiously trendy boutique Found, the fabulous Wadswick Country Store at one end and the official Bath Rugby shop at the other. On Bridge Street (on the city centre side of the Pulteney Bridge area, on the corner of the High Street) you must take time to discover Mallory’s, arguably Bath’s (and the West Country’s) most glamorous antique, traditional and contemporary jewellery and watch emporium, established in 1898 by Edward Palmer Mallory. Today, Mallory’s – which remains very much a family business – enjoys legendary status across the globe as an ultimate destination for the specialist maintenance and repair of exclusive timepieces and jewellery, and specialists in all manner of luxury gifts and accessories rarely seen outside London. Prepare to be dazzled here. Back on the northerly track, Milsom Street is home to Jolly’s (originally the oldest department store in the UK, established in 1831) and a classy array of super-chic, big-name fashion retail outlets nicely balanced by a handful of quirky independent outfitters, gift shops and homeware stores. Over the road from Jolly’s, you’ll find Milsom Place: a quiet cobbled courtyard and home to a variety of great restaurants and high street flagship stores including Hobbs and Phase Eight while Green Street (adjacent to Milsom Place, and officially part of the ‘Milsom Quarter’) is one of the city’s prettiest thoroughfares, lined with independent traders including, Minerva Art supplies, British Shoe Company and Amathus, a specialist wine and drinks retailer. Meanwhile, New Bond Street (parallel to Green Street) is lined with yet more fashionable pitstops including, Anthropologie, Sea Salt, L'Occitane and chic skincare sanctuary Space NK Apothecary, Aesop, Jo Malone and Penhaligons – but we still haven’t blown the shopping budget yet. ➲ POSTCARD from BATH / 57

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Take left at the bottom of either Green Street or New Bond Street and you’re perfectly placed for a stroll up Broad Street, home to Rossiters of Bath, (the eclectic and quirky department store known as the Liberty’s of the west country), the lovely houseplant shop Chapter 22, Always Sunday (really cool Homeware) Tilian Kids and stylish Boho boutique. Next take a turn into the Walcot Street/London Road area, known locally as Bath’s Artisan Quarter. Here you’ll find some of the funkiest indie trading posts in town specialising in everything from vintage clothes to stylish interior stores and, taking in all manner of foodie havens along the way including the odorous yet beautifully stocked Fine Cheese Company and veggie/vegan Harvest, homeware store Graham and Green, as well as the fun and funky Yellow Shop for pre-loved vintage and retro style clothing. Although we’re on a shopping trip, it’s worth mentioning that two pubs in this area are second to none in terms of character: the legendary Bell and the historic Star Inn on The Paragon. Heading back up to the city’s northern slopes, the elegant George Street flaunts an eclectic mix of good deli’s, coffee shops, cool charity shops, and a strip of nightclubs and winebars. Meanwhile the pretty pedestrianised lane that is Bartlett Street (just off George Street) is home to a number of glam-but-accessible boutiques, a wonderful antique centre and unique lifestyle space: The Loft, formerly a Victorian department store, where businesses share floorspace and features the popular Café Lucca, and designer women’s clothing by Blue. Needless to say there are so many more great little shops and boutiques that are worth discovering such as Kimberly, The Dressing Room, Guitarbitz and finding them and many more as you zig-zag the city is a true testament to the joy of happenchance. BATH MARKETS Farmers’ markets have earned near-legendary status in foodie circlesand the original – and, many would argue, still the best of the bunch – is based at Bath’s historic Green Park Station and was formally established there in 1997, making it one of the longestrunning farmers’ markets in the UK. Popular this bustling hubbub of food-based fabulosity offers a wide selection of traders, all of whom are local to Bath. An ever-evolving selection of largely organic, seasonal produce proliferates at the market every Saturday morning, supplemented by themed markets including the weekday mini-markets and the excellent Bath Contemporary Artists Fair (every 2nd Sunday of the month) there’s also antiques, vegan and other ad-hoc markets to enjoy each month. See the full line up on the website: www.greenparkstation.co.uk For those of us who like to shop the old fashioned way, the Guildhall Market is a veritable treasure house of delights. Baubles, beads and bows; pet food, mop buckets and second-hand books; feather boas, handbags and old fashioned humbugs; deli food, cheese specialists and exotic delights: the oldest trading epicentre in the Heritage City offers the kind of “I didn't know how much I needed one of those until I found it here” experiences that online, supermarket or even high street shopping can never provide. Meanwhile, Walcot Street’s popular Antique and Flea market offers a unique selection of clothes, antiques, books, crockery, collectables and more every Saturday morning. 

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ANTHROPOLOGIE, NEW BOND STREET

SOUTHGATE

THE ENTRANCE TO THE GUILDHALL MARKET

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Visit our gorgeous shop on Pulteney Bridge

6 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA2 4AX

01225 422333

www.uptoseven.co.uk

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Bath’s best shops A city of great shops. Essential, interesting, designer, luxurious, cool or just downright eccentric... our retailers sell beautiful products with a customer service that is rarely found elsewhere. The Postcard Guide promotes a selection of our favourite shops and stores that make the Bath one of the finest shopping destinations in the country.

BATH AQUA GLASS 14 Cheap Street / 15 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1NA Tel: 01225 789931 105 – 107 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BW Tel: 01225 428146 Web: bathaquaglass.com Bath Aqua Glass is a friendly local company creating handmade glass right in the centre of the city. From beautiful blown pieces and bespoke windows to delicate jewellery and ornaments, the range on offer is exceptional. The Walcot Street studio is open for viewings seven days a week, where you can watch expert glassblowers create works of art using ancient techniques and even have a go! Afterwards, wander down to the Abbey Churchyard shop and select a souvenir or two from the many stunning pieces available there. For a genuine gift from Bath, look no further than Bath Aqua Glass.

MAGALLERIA 5 Upper Borough Walls, Bath BA1 1RG Tel: 01225 259602 Web: magalleria.co.uk

MALLORY 1 – 5 Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AP Tel: 01225 788800 Web: mallory-jewellers.com Mallory is renowned as Bath’s destination jeweller. Now in its fifth generation, it is one of the country’s oldest family-owned and run jewellers, established for 125 years in its original Bridge Street premises. Today it boasts one of the largest in-house workshops in the UK, employing goldsmiths trained to the highest calibre, who create the most exquisite bespoke jewellery, as well as fully accredited watchmakers, who are qualified to maintain the finest of timepieces. Inside the showroom you will find a majestic emporium of fine and contemporary jewellery, watches, and luxury gifts and accessories from the world’s most exclusive brands. The imposing frontage may look daunting, however Mallory’s offerings encompass something to suit all pockets, with international names such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Tudor, Fabergé, Pomellato, Chopard, Montblanc, Tag Heuer, Longines, Breitling, Georg Jensen, Fope and Mikimoto, as well as an extensive collection of jewellery designed by Mallory.

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Magalleria is a unique store selling the largest collection of international, independent and niche print magazines in Europe, and arguably anywhere. Based in central Bath, Magalleria imports magazines, journals and zines from all over the world (many exclusive) to showcase the most interesting and hard to find titles from indie magazine and book publishers. Interest in creative print is very strong, with new entrants and established publishers alike now able to access modern production technologies that ensure today’s magazines are better geared to make reading a more tactile and visually pleasurable experience than ever before. With knowledgeable staff and offering strong depth in art, design, interiors, fashion, lifestyle, food, travel and literature, Magalleria is packed with information, ideas and inspiration.

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Bath’s best shops HONEY WILLOW 8 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 422339 Web: honeywillow.com Honey Willow is a Bath family run jewellery business on historic Pulteney Bridge, handcrafting meaningful, personalised jewellery celebrating loved ones and life’s milestones. Started online in 2010 by local mum, Rhiannon Hamilton, the business is named after her two daughters: Honey and Willow. Honey Willow now have a shop on historic Pulteney Bridge, with a workshop nearby, where the jewellery is made by a team of creative local makers. Jewellery made to order, with a small selection available to purchase in the shop. For a memento of your time in Bath visit the shop on Pulteney Bridge of find the full range on the Honey Willow website. Open: WednesdaySaturday 10am-4pm, Sunday 11am-4pm. Discount code for 10% off : POSTCARD10

TOPPING & COMPANY York St, Bath BA1 1NG Tel: 01225 428111 Web: toppingbooks.co.uk With rolling library ladders, oak flooring, handmade wooden bookcases, Topping & Company Booksellers is one of the best bookshops in the country and one of Bath’s most cherished independents. Pay a visit and you’re likely to be offered complimentary tea or cafetière coffee while you browse through more than 70,000 titles. It’s the perfect place for any bibliophile to spend an hour or two browsing. Look out for a full variety of celebrated authors and famous names appearing at one of their many literary events.

BATH ABBEY

WYLDE JEWELLERS

Bath BA1 1LT Tel: 01225 422462 Web: www.bathabbey.org

12 Northumberland Place, Bath BA1 5AR Tel: 01225 462826 Web: nicholaswylde.com

The Abbey shop, located on the south side of Bath Abbey, is a treasure trove of souvenirs and Christian gifts. The gift shop tells the story of the Abbey through its product ranges, with a Benedictine monk range, tales of Tudor days and comes right up to date with gifts depicting the West Front in a rainbow of colours. Featuring many local artists, the shop also has a special focus on Christian women and their small businesses. Alongside the core product lines and an excellent selection of Christian books, there are special souvenirs for different times of the year.

The south west’s leading designer jeweller, award-winning Nicholas Wylde has been designing original, high-quality jewellery since first opening his Bath store in 1987. He has built up a reputation for designing outstanding pieces; from one-off commissions to larger corporate orders – all handmade, with great passion, in the workshop on the premises. An added cool factor: Nicholas Wylde offers his own patented diamond cut, the dazzling Wylde Flower Diamond®, with more cut facets than a brilliant cut diamond for that extra-special sparkle. You won’t find this gemstone anywhere else in the world. For vibrantly unique designs and excellent service from knowledgeable and helpful staff, Nicholas Wylde is a perfect destination for anyone looking for that truly unique piece of jewellery.

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Bath’s best shops PORTMAN BOUTIQUE

JODY CORY GOLDSMITHS

28 Milsom St, Bath BA1 1DG Web: portmanboutiques.co.uk

9 Abbey Churchyard, Bath BA1 1LY Tel: 01225 470072 Web: jodycory.co.uk

Founded by Nickie Portman in 2011, Portman Boutique is the place to find something unique, bold and beautiful to wear and love. You’ll find a carefully curated collection of Nickie’s favourite styles, many designed in house, to see you through every season. From Italian and Parisian French fashion to the Nickie Portman Jewellery collection and accessories, Nickie sources and designs beautiful collections with her stylist's eye. Nickie and her team select every item based on what they truly love to wear. They buy seasonally based on the latest trend-led silhouettes and love to add their particular sense of style to every collection. Whether you're treating yourself to a new accessory to brighten your wardrobe or are treating a friend to some jewellery to brighten theirs, you’ll find the perfect piece.

Jody Cory is an independent jeweller and member of the National Association of Goldsmiths with more than 25 years’ experience. From her shop and workshop in Abbey Churchyard, Jody and her team create beautiful, unique pieces which are the perfect way to mark any special occasion. Friendly advice is available seven days a week from a team of highly skilled goldsmiths working in extremely covetable silver, gold and platinum and using personally selected rare gemstones. Old or broken treasures can be repaired or remodelled to become exciting new pieces to be enjoyed all over again and a free design service is available. Jody also offers restringing, rhodium plating and valuations. Her shop in the Abbey Churchyard offers skilfully crafted handmade jewellery from inexpensive silver pieces to diamond-set engagement rings and wedding rings in traditional and contemporary styles to suit all taste as well as a variety of highly interesting work from other UK designers.

BEAU NASH ANTIQUE SHOP

PENHALIGON’S

28 & 31 Brock Street, Bath BA1 2LN Tel: 01225 334234 Web: beaunashbath.com

14 New Bond St, Bath BA1 1BE Tel: 01225 410090 Web: penhaligons.com

Fashionable Antiques. Personalised Service. That’s The Beau Nash promise. Beau Nash’s Antique Interior and Antique Silver shops help you create a stylish and comfortable home. Situated in Brock Street, between the Royal Crescent and the Circus, the two shops are named after the famous Master of Ceremonies of Bath, Richard “Beau” Nash, the leader of fashion in Georgian times. See a large collection of useful silverware and mirrors at #31 and high-quality antique interiors at #28. Don’t forget to view the recently-discovered Georgian kitchen from 1760 in its basement.

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British perfumery Penhaligon’s was established in 1870 by William Penhaligon. Originating as a barbershop, Penhaligon's offered its first fragrance in 1872, Hammam Bouquet, inspired by the neighbouring Turkish Bath and its sulfurous steam. The company's best-selling fragrance, 1902's Blenheim Bouquet, broke with the prevailing floral trends of its day to enchant with zesty citrus, spices and woods. In 1956 Penhaligon's was granted a Royal Warrant for the manufacturing of toiletries. The company was granted a second Royal Warrant in 1988 by Diana, Princess of Wales, whose favourite perfume was their Bluebell scent. The company specialises in fine, traditional perfume ingredients and techniques. Penhaligon's today offers a line of bath and body care products and luxury shaving and grooming accessories to complement its fragrances.

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Bath’s best shops ANTHROPOLOGIE 1 – 4 New Bond Street, bath BA1 1BE Tel: 01225 335578 Web: anthropologie.com Anthropologie in Bath is a wonderful, one-of-a-kind destination for those seeking rich collections of clothing, accessories, gifts and home décor inspired by fashion, art and entertainment. Products are sourced by buyers and designers who travel the world to uncover unique, special items and often collaborate with upcoming talented artists. The result? An eclectic assortment that includes clothing, accessories, beauty, found objects, gifts and more, with influences ranging from vintage to global. A visit to Anthropologie will reveal exquisitely crafted treasures waiting to delight.

THE BATH HAT COMPANY

BLUE

9 – 11 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BN Tel: 01225 339009 Web: thebathhatcompany.com

The Loft, 1-2 Bartlett Street, Bath BA1 2QZ Tel: 01225 462111 Web: bluewomensclothing.co.uk

This lovely shop has hats for all occasions, and is one of the specialist independent retailers which make shopping in the city such a unique and enjoyable experience. A-listed by Harper’s Bazaar magazine, the shop is brimming with colour and stocks a huge selection of contemporary designs, along with a hint of vintage and a touch of the outrageous, all beautifully hand crafted. For the man about town, it has a fabulous collection of gentlemen’s hats, colourful trilbies, fedoras, Donegal and Harris Tweed caps, Panamas and many more. All sizes are available.

The independent fashion retail chain Blue first opened in Montpellier, Cheltenham in 2000, with the Bath store at The Loft – the spacious lifestyle store in Bartlett Street Quarter – following in 2003. Blue stocks adventurous clothing for women of all ages who like to celebrate individual style. Brands include sustainable women’s clothing by Elemente Clemente, Volker Lang’s Rundholz Black Label bags, Scandinavian lifestyle brand Sort Aarhus, luxurious natural clothing from Yacco Maricard, luxurious and contemporary coats by Rino + Pelle, ethical, affordable fashion from Mes Soeurs & Moi and Lofina's hand-crafted footwear range in beautiful Italian leather. Browse in the store and enjoy coffee or lunch in The Loft’s award-winning Café Lucca. You can also shop 24/7 at Blue’s online shop.

JOLLY’S 13 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DD Tel: 01225 786900 Web: houseoffraser.co.uk Jolly’s is one of the oldest department stores in Europe. James Jolly first took retail premises back in 1823, before his son Thomas became the driving force behind the business, pioneering fixed price merchandising. Now restored to its 19th-century glory by owners House of Fraser you’ll find the full spectrum of desirable goods, from homeware and accessories to cosmetics and fashion. The magnificent beauty hall is full of luxury brands. Jolly’s has always had retail innovation at its heart and retains its place as the jewel in the crown of the city’s stores.

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Bath’s best shops SQUARE

HOMEFRONT INTERIORS

12 New Bond Street. Bath. BA1 1BE Tel: 01225 464997 Web: square.store

10 Margaret’s Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP Tel: 01225 571711 Web: homefrontinteriors.co.uk

Established in Bath in 1981 selling selling Vivienne Westwood garments, Square is an award-winning designer ladies boutique. Over the last 40 years Square has worked with most brands and designers including Ozbek, John Flett, Fendi, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Gucci. Dolce and Gabbana, Chloe and YSL. The store is in a listed building in the centre of Bath and was once occupied by Mary Shelley and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Famously Mary Shelley wrote the first five chapters of Frankenstein there. In recent years Square has specialised in contemporary brands and with excellent personal customer service it is the ideal shop to look for that extra special something for any occasion.

Now in its fourth year, the eclectic Homefront Interiors has continued to grow with an everchanging selection of homewares, gifts and cards. This independent little store may be small but it has a wide range and regularly updated stock of new and vintage homewares and follows a simple ethos of sustainability. This could mean recycled materials, fair-trade origin, small-scale production, or simply showing a little love and care to vintage finds. It is the clever mix of vintage and contemporary alongside an ever-growing selection of handmade pieces from local artists including textiles, ceramics, jewellery, art prints and cards that makes Homefront such a great destination. Perfect for gifts and unique finds for your own home.

NIGEL DANDO 11 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AY Tel: 01225 464013 Web: nigeldando.co.uk Nigel Dando began his career after he gained a national goldsmiths diploma before going on to study gemmology at the Sir John Cass College of Art, Whitechapel. Today he sells an eclectic mix of new, pre-owned and vintage jewellery, and has a particular interest in pieces from the 1920s to 1960s. Together with ranges of contemporary silver jewellery at affordable prices, many of which are one-off pieces, the emphasis is on quality and style. He also buys gold and silver items in any form or condition. Nigel also sells investment precious metals at what he believes to be the most competitive prices in the city. Being one of the few provincial members of the London Diamond Bourse, Nigel offers undeniable expertise and value. He also offers a repair and valuation service.

LONDON CAMERA EXCHANGE 13 Cheap Street, Bath BA1 1NA Tel: 01225 462234 Web: lcegroup.co.uk If photography is your passion then head to an institution where you are guaranteed a personal and helpful service from staff who really know their business. Whether you are after an SD card for your camera, or you’re looking for a brand new device to take pictures of beautiful Bath, London Camera Exchange can trace its origins back to the original photographic studio in Guildford in the 1950s. Specialities include sensor cleaning and image recovery as well as prints from phones, instant prints and passport photos. There is an excellent part-exchange service so that customers can either trade up with the latest photographic equipment or choose from the selection of used items. Space is also devoted to other types of optical equipment such as astronomical telescopes and sport optics – visit or contact the team for the best deals in Bath.

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Bath’s best shops UP TO SEVEN

BRITISH SHOE COMPANY

6 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 422333 Web: uptoseven.co.uk

14 Green Street, Bath BA1 2JZ Tel: 01225 727084 Web: britishshoecompany.co.uk

Have you found this beautiful shop on Pulteney Bridge? Here the team makes and sells lots of dresses, reversible dungarees, hand-knitted woollies and of course the store’s famous and incredibly cute hats; strawberry, Christmas pudding, Bath Rugby and more. Up to Seven is a major stockist of Frugi and Kite, organic cotton, fairly traded clothes for babies and children and always has lots of appliqued T-shirts, dresses, hats, baby gifts and dinosaurs. If you haven’t been in or if you are looking for a baby gift, a frock for a special occasion or comfy clothes for everyday, then pop in to Up To Seven to find the perfect solution.

A family business, British Shoe Company has been involved in English shoemaking and repairing for generations, with over 100 years of combined knowledge and experience to call on. The company manufactures and supplies top-quality shoes made in England alongside international partners, but the majority of shoes are handcrafted in Northamptonshire, the home of English shoe-making for almost 900 years. The Bath store holds a large selection from brands such as Barker, Berwick, Red Wing, Crockett and Jones, R.M. Williams, Sanders and Tricker’s, along with the British Shoe Company’s popular Masonic shoe. The store has a large range of shoes, but not all styles, colours and sizes are stocked from its extensive range, so if seeking a particular style before visiting, make contact in advance to check availability.

THE DRESSING ROOM 7 Quiet Street, Bath BA1 2JU Tel: 01225 330563 Web: dressingroombath.com Since first opening in Bath in 1985 The Dressing Room has maintained its reputation as the ‘go to’ place for the finest in lingerie, beach and nightwear. While offering the most exquisite lingerie collections from the likes of Marie Jo, Aubade, Lise Charmel, Empreinte and Prima Donna, the shop also has a wide range of basic T-shirt bras and invisible briefs. The beachwear collection is available all year round and features brands such as Melissa Odabash, Maryan Mehlhorn, Roidal, Anita, Gottex and Miraclesuit. The Nightwear selection includes silks from Marjolaine and Luna di Seta, robes from Louis Feraud, Diamond Tea and Clara Rossi and cottons from Hanro – amongst much, much more. With experienced and professional staff ready to help you, why not go along and have some fun?

GRACE & MABEL 3 George St, Bath BA1 2EH Tel: 01225 445511 Web: graceandmabel.co.uk Sisters Shelley, Daniela and Kirstie established Grace and Mabel in Bristol in 2007. Once a single small boutique in Clifton Village, Grace and Mabel grew quickly and a second shop opened in Bath in 2010. Grace and Mabel offers a special level of service and a wonderful shopping experience for clothing, accessories and lifestyle goods from top European, Scandinavian and British brands. Today, Grace and Mabel is just as exciting as it ever was. One of the West’s most distinctive shopping destinations, it continues to offer pieces that have been individually handpicked from the world’s top designers. The mantra is "We buy only pieces we like, we are very selective. It’s all about quality and individuality”

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Bath’s best shops KIMBERLY

WADSWICK

Trim Street, Bath BA1 1HB Tel: 01225 466817 Web: Kimberly.co.uk

1 Pulteney Bridge, Bath, BA2 4AX Web: wadswick.co.uk

Kimberly has stocked some of the world’s finest Designers for over 40 years. The shop has established itself as a must-go-to store for every day luxury wear or for that special occasion. Current designers include: Amina Rubinacci, Max Mara, Le Tricot Perugia, Kinross, Luisa Cerano, Cinzia Rocca and more. On the arrival of new season collections, they are photographed in the inhouse studio and sent by email in book form to her established clients, to give a taste of the wonderful clothes available in store.

Recently joining the row of shops on Bath’s iconic Pulteney Bridge, Wadswick has in its collection of men's and women's fashion and accessories, some of the world’s best-loved country brands including Holland Cooper, Barbour, Schöffel, Fairfax & Favor, R.M. Williams, Ariat and Yeti. Wadswick specialises in the country lifestyle and their new boutique in Bath builds on over thirty years of country heritage from their flagship store near Corsham, the popular market town seven miles east of the city. There you will find a large clothing collection, a huge range for equestrians and pet lovers, a shooting simulator and a smart, contemporary restaurant. In Bath, their chic range of clothing is perfect for those looking for that smart-casual feel that will take you around the city and into the countryside in style.

THE SILVER SHOP 25 Union Passage, Bath BA1 1RD Tel: 01225 464781 Web: thesilvershopofbath.co.uk This little gem of a shop continues to be one of Bath’s favourite gift and jewellery stores and is still a familyrun and independent business. You’ll find it tucked away just a minute walk from The Abbey and The Roman Baths. The shop is a firm favourite with visitors and residents alike and has a reputation for great customer service. With Bath’s largest selection of silver jewellery with prices ranging from £5 to £500, the staff work hard to source a wide selection of pieces with some ranges being handmade by local jewellers. With a small workshop on site, The Silver Shop also offers a charm soldering service for customers. Make this your first stop if you’re looking for a gift for someone special or just to treat yourself to a piece such as a clock or a candle, a christening gift or even a Charlie Bear, it is certain to have something for you.

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ICARUS SILVER JEWELLERY 3 Pulteney Bridge, Bath BA2 4AX Tel: 01225 463693 Web: icarusjewellery.com Icarus Jewellery is an independent silver jewellery shop located on Pulteney Bridge in the heart of Bath, and offers a great selection of handmade unique designs from their store and online shop. Owner Dilek Köroğlu designs and makes some of the handmade silver jewellery pieces in the shop and is always happy to show you more of any particular style you desire. You are also very welcome to discuss custom orders for bespoke designs. The shop is something a little bit different and a place to be surrounded by beautiful things.

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Bath’s best shops BATH GUILDHALL MARKET 33 High Street, Bath BA2 4AW Tel: 01225 460808 Web: bathguildhallmarket.co.uk Bath Guildhall Market is the oldest shopping venue in the city and today a colourful group of 20 or so stallholders trade in this jewel of a building in the heart of the city, just 80 yards from Bath Abbey and opposite the famous Pulteney Bridge. Offering virtually everything you need under one roof, plus service with a smile and the kind of old-fashioned personal attention you find when shopping at a family-run business. You’ll find haberdashery, hardware, partywear, pet supplies, foodie treats and everything in between.

JOHN ANTHONY 26 – 28 High Street, Bath BA1 1RG Tel: 01225 424066 Web: john-anthony.com Located on the busy high street, just a stone’s throw from the beautiful Bath Abbey and Guildhall, John Anthony has called Bath home for over 25 years. Spread out over two floors, the shop boasts an impressive range of designer menswear from great British brands like Belstaff, Barbour and Vivienne Westwood, to contemporary global names like Comme des Garçons, Stone Island and Versace. The knowledgable team create a stress-free and enjoyable shopping experience for all. If you can’t find something in store, the team will always strive to order items in for customers. Or if you prefer to shop from the comfort of your own home, there is an express service and free UK delivery on all orders over £40. John Anthony is the best shopping destination in Bath for top-of-the-line designer menswear. Pop along and check it out for yourself.

GRAHAM & GREEN 92 Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BG Tel: 01225 418300 Web: grahamandgreen.co.uk Inspired by a love of travel and design, family business Graham & Green opened its first home interiors store in the heart of Notting Hill in 1974 and its style and influence has being growing ever since. Graham & Green’s expertise in furniture design coupled with strong family values translates into the unique, quality furniture and accessories you see online and in-store at Graham & Green today. The company renovated a 19th century former bake house on Bath’s Walcot Street into the company’s headquarters and its first store outside London. Graham and Green often hosts workshops and events in-store for the local community of Bath and beyond.

GOLD & PLATINUM STUDIO 19 Northumberland Place, Bath BA1 5AR Tel: 01225 462300 Web: goldandplatinumstudio.co.uk Goldsmith and gemmologist Michael Parsons and his team run a delightful independent studio. He specialises in handmaking one-off engagement rings and wedding rings, as well as offering a wide range of individual pieces. Michael and his team undertake all types of commissions on-site as well as carrying out remodelling and repairs. In addition Gold & Platinum Studio showcases a selection of independent designer jewellers. A superb choice to suit all budgets. Michael has been trading in Bath for over 40 years and has an enviable reputation for quality service. A visit is a must for jewellery lovers and anyone looking for a special gift or thinking of having a piece of jewellery made.

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SHOPPING

BATH CHRISTMAS MARKET The buzz of a good Christmas market certainly brings on a warm festive feeling. Bath’s very own event not only adds seasonal cheer but a huge boost to the city’s economy and visitor popularity.

hristmas begins early for the organisers of Bath’s annual market – in the second week in January. That’s hardly a surprise when you consider that the Christmas market in 2022 had 500,000 visitors and generated about £47 million for the city and in the region of £16 million for stallholders. This year the market is set to bring in similar figures when it opens on 23 November, running until 10 December. Several cities in Britain may have similar markets, but few have such fabulous surroundings as Bath with the magnificent backdrop of the Abbey and the Roman Baths. This Christmas extravaganza is in fact seen as more of an ‘event’ than a market. The market in 2022 was the most successful to date – coming after a two-year hiatus during the pandemic. The market originally

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came about at the instigation of two city councillors, Gitta Dawson and Marian McNair (who later became mayor). The idea was to celebrate the relationship with one of Bath’s twin cities, Aix-enProvence. The French town continues to share a chalet in Bath (selling cheese and lavender products) with its other twin cities Alkmaar and Braunschweig selling their own local goods. From its initial, humble beginnings in 2001 when the market had 40 stalls and ran for just four days, Bath Christmas Market has emerged into something much bigger with its presence extending around the city. This year sees around 200 stalls, stretching around the Abbey and up Bath Street, Hot Bath Street and Milsom Street. This includes the offer of Christmas carts for small and microbusinesses in Green Street, three- and four-day lets designed for

Original text by Simon Horsford. Images by Paolo Ferla

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businesses to try out the market before, hopefully, renting a bigger chalet in the years that follow. The event – which is not run for profit – is certainly something of a money-spinner for the city. That said, not everyone is a fan of the Christmas stalls when they take over the streets of the city for 18 days because the market does cause disruption with street closures, but the organisers are always keen to work with smaller, independent outlets to find ways to extend the footfall of visitors to places outside of the market footprint. Whatever the view, it is the sellers that make the market. The emphasis is on handmade and fairtrade products as well as sustainability. Marketing Manager Hannah Batey says, “We want to offer something that you can’t just go to any market to get, so the businesses are very artisan-focused, with handmade, traditionally made and ethically sourced products.” Sustainability encompasses all elements of the market – all areas are single-use plastic-free, there is a fossil-fuel-free generator, stallholders can use an electric bike with a trailer to transport stock across the site; and stallholders and visitors are encouraged to take public transport to reduce congestion in the city. What’s more this year there will be no mass printing of maps, instead printed map boards or light boxes will be on display, and an online version for website and mobile. Choosing the stallholders is certainly a big task for the organisers who this year received around 500 applications for the pitches, and each and every one is assessed thoroughly. There is always a need to bring in new ideas each year, but there are plenty of familiar faces that people will recognise, too. Around 75% of the market stalls are from the south ➲ POSTCARD from BATH / 69

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west, with most of them Bath or Bristol based and there are over 40 new stallholders, a big increase from previous years. These include gorgeous headpieces by Willow and Hermione, who took out a short-term Christmas cart let last year and are coming back with a longer-term let; local artist Jake Coates who does pet portraits; and Harth Chocolate who make delicious chocolatey treats. More familiar stalls will be that of Paper Starlights and their light lanterns and Somerset Lavender with natural products handmade on the farm, from wax melts to reed diffusers. There is always street entertainment adding to the atmosphere and in 2023 this will include event community choirs, brass bands and street performers, alongside the wonderful Natural Theatre Company, bringing some Christmas cheer to visitors of the city. Another attraction of the market is that Bath doesn’t try and copy the format of the great German markets. Stallholders are asked to use LED white lights and not flashing or coloured ones, and there are no sound systems. So it is very much its own thing – and quintessentially British. The market’s continuing popularity is proof that whether you are buying cheese from Aix, a Christmas pudding from Devon or just soaking up the infectious, wintery atmosphere, it’s a singular place to be at this time of year.  The Bath Christmas Market will run from 23 November – 10 December 2023 throughout the city centre.

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THE HOLBURNE MUSEUM Melissa Blease explores the history and reinvention of Bath’s most eclectic museum and discovers Italian maiolica; works by Gainsborough, Pieter Brueghel and Turner; Meissen porcelain; and vases by Josiah Wedgwood – welcome to a world-class experience

he Holburne Museum on Great Pulteney Street, one of the finest Georgian thoroughfares in Bath, is home to one of the most fascinating museum collections in the west country, surrounded by glorious greenery and adjacent to a former 18thcentury pleasure garden. Originally designed as a grand hotel in 1794, the impressive facade of the Holburne Museum fronts a diverse collection of fine and decorative art, spanning centuries of culture. The collection is beautifully laid out in equally beautiful surroundings that seamlessly incorporate award-winning architect Eric Parry’s impressive 2011 extension, respectfully integrating contemporary themes against a backdrop of historic tradition. There’s a richly textured wealth of artistic treasures to explore at the Holburne, ranging from grand portraits and Old Masters; imposing historic furniture and domestic furniture; to tiny, highly detailed miniatures; intricate jewellery; and sparkling antique silverware. The impressive former ballroom on the front upper level of the building is generally used to display banqueting paraphernalia from the Renaissance to the Georgian era. This can be browsed and considered under the watchful gaze of portraits The Byam Family by Thomas Gainsborough (1727–1788), oil on canvas, c.1762-66. On long-term loan from the Andrew Brownsword Arts Foundation

of 17th and 18th-century high society on the walls. On the top floor, the museum offers the opportunity to discover more about Bath’s history as a fashionable, creative destination; examples of works by former Bath resident Thomas Gainsborough can be found here, alongside canvases by Stubbs, Zoffany and Ramsay. But whichever of the many displays captivate you on any level of the museum, views across either Sydney Gardens (to the rear) or all the way down magnificent Great Pulteney Street itself (to the front, from the ballroom) offer captivating works of living art in their own right. The Holburne Museum is most definitely a family-friendly zone. The Sackler Discovery Centre offers free activities inspired by current exhibitions, activity drawers are conveniently placed throughout the extension galleries, family activity bags can be loaned and family trail suggestions (including a mapped-out ‘voyage’ and an ‘Animals Everywhere’ theme) are just 50p. Meanwhile, the museum’s award-winning, fully licensed garden café – serving an inviting variety of seasonal, freshly prepared food including fabulous homemade cakes – opens out to the historic Sydney Gardens, and the museum shop stocks a range of books, gifts, homeware, stationery and stylish souvenirs.

HISTORY The building now known as the Holburne Museum was originally designed by Thomas Baldwin as a two-storey hotel to serve the adjacent pleasure gardens (Sydney Gardens) in 1794. But after Baldwin was bankrupted, plans for the original hotel crumbled. In 1796, a new foundation stone was laid, marking the beginning of a brand new project designed by Charles Harcourt Masters. The new hotel opened in 1799 and became popular with visitors to the pleasure gardens and galas. Most notably the latter were planned to coincide with the birthdays of George III and the Prince of Wales, and the opening night of the annual Bath Races and public breakfasts. Jane Austen and her family often attended the public breakfasts – when they first arrived in Bath in 1801, they took lodgings at 4 Sydney Place, just over the road. The hotel closed in 1836 and became a private lodging house. A third storey was added, and the two watchmen’s boxes that bookend the entrance/exits to the museum today were added around 1840. In 1830, Sir Thomas William Holburne and his three unmarried sisters took up residence little over a mile away from Great Pulteney Street, at 10 Cavendish Crescent. Holburne

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Photographs: courtesy of The Holburne Museum, photograph left by Dan Brown

St George and the Dragon by Francesco Fanelli (active 1608–1661) in bronze, about 1635

– a former naval officer and Bath ‘gentleman of means’ – packed his modest townhouse with souvenirs, artworks, knickknacks and cultural/social paraphernalia collected throughout his naval career on a series of Grand Tours to Europe in the 1820s. When Holburne’s aunt Catherine Cussans died in 1834, several trust funds bequeathed by Catherine allowed Holburne the means to expand his collection and to make frequent purchases at local auction houses, shops and sales. Supplemented by inherited family treasures – including portraits, porcelain and silverware – he added all manner of diverse artworks and social memorabilia to his hoard. These included miniatures, books and furniture, Roman coins and seals, 17th and 18th-century tableware and Chinese armorial ceramics... Holburne’s tastes were eclectic, and his collection became increasingly unique. Holburne died in 1874, aged 81. In 1882, his sister Mary Anne Barbara Holburne died, and bequeathed her brother’s collection of over 4,000 pieces to the people of Bath, intending the treasures to form “the nucleus of a Museum of Art for the city of Bath”. The Holburne Museum opened to the public in 1893, and since then, a further 2,500 plus objects have been acquired. In 1955, Ernest E. Cook – grandson of travel entrepreneur Thomas Cook – donated 10 paintings including works by Gainsborough, Stubbs and Turner to the museum. In 1963, former museum trustee J MacGregor Duncan bequested a collection of early Meissen porcelain and, in 1944, another trustee James Calder donated a comprehensive collection of English 18th-century porcelain to supplement the museum’s

existing collection of Chelsea, Derby and Worcester. In 2008, the Holburne Museum closed its doors to the public to instigate major redevelopment work. This included refurbishment to the galleries and public spaces, and a brand new extension designed by world-acclaimed British architect Eric Parry. In 2011, the Holburne’s revamp was unveiled, revealing purpose-built temporary exhibition and teaching spaces, collections stores and a café.

Vase by Josiah Wedgwood (factory of), Jasperware, about 1780

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HOLBURNE MUSEUM EXHIBITIONS Lucie Rie: The Adventure of Pottery Until 7 January 2024

NOTABLE WORKS Seven works by Thomas Gainborough including his ethereal Lady in a Blue Cloak, Johan Zoffany’s The Auriol and Dashwood Families (a snapshot of Colonial life in 1780s Bengal), The Somerset Maugham collection of Georgian theatrical portraits, three works by Pieter Brueghel the Younger and Thomas Lawrence’s Study for Arthur Atherley, which is somehow all the more powerfully characterful for being a preparatory work-in-progress. The intricate, elaborate, richly detailed Beadwork Basket (artist unknown), part of the Holburne’s significant collection of 17thcentury embroidery. There is also Italian maiolica everywhere. Holburne was a big fan of the uniquely beautiful, richly decorated Italian tin-glazed pottery dating from the Renaissance period. If you feel the same way, treat yourself to a reproduction maiolica paperweight from the museum shop. 

 Visit: The Holburne Museum, Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB  Tel: 01225 388569

 For admission prices and information on special exhibitions and events visit website.  Open daily: 10am to 5pm (Sundays and Bank Holidays 11am to 5pm) Closed 24, 25, 26 Dec and 1 Jan.  Web: holburne.org

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The exhibition is organised by Kettle’s Yard, University of Cambridge and MIMA, part of Teesside University, in association with The Holburne Museum.

Gwen John 27 October – 14 April 2024 This is the first major exhibition to place Gwen John (1876– 1939) in relation to the art worlds of London and Paris, the two cities in which she chose to live and work. By looking beyond John’s work in isolation, or only in relation to her brother, Augustus, audiences will be able to enjoy and understand her art in conversation with her international contemporaries including Édouard Vuillard, Auguste Rodin, and poets Rainer Maria Rilke and Arthur Symons. The exhibition will also present new research into John's female contemporaries whose work was connected with hers. Central to the exhibition is John's personal development as an artist and her biography. Exhibition organised by Pallant House Gallery.

Portrait of an Unknown Lady with a Blue Cloak by Thomas Gainsborough (1727–1788), oil on canvas, c.1765 © The Holburne Museum, Bath

This major exhibition celebrates Lucie Rie (1902–1995), one of the most accomplished and influential potters of the 20th century. Featuring work Bowl by Lucie Rie, 1977, porcelain with golden manganese glaze and sgraﬃto produced across six decades, this follows Rie’s career, from her earliest ceramics made in her native Vienna to striking pieces from the last years of her life. Rie’s escape from Nazi persecution to Britain in 1938 had a significant impact on her life and work. She established herself as an independent female potter in a male-dominated field, working with the likes of Hans Coper and Bernard Leach. Her extensive technical knowledge and experimentation with glazes and firing to create different colours, textures and effects, garnered widespread admiration and left a lasting impression on an entire generation of British ceramicists.

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VICTORIA ART GALLERY Bath offers a diverse variety of cultural delights. Melissa Blease explores the city’s very own public art museum dedicated to paintings, sculpture and decorative arts

he Victoria Art Gallery is one of Bath’s most loved cultural attractions and the most popular art gallery in the region with an outstanding collection of 1,500 decorative art treasures and paintings on permanent display. Since it opened its doors to the public in 1900, the gallery space within this subtly monumental Victorian building has become intrinsically woven into the fabric of day-to-day life in Bath, remaining as consistently popular with locals as it is with Heritage City visitors, some 160,000 of whom browse the gallery’s collections every year. The airy, spacious two-storey building houses a huge collection of paintings, sketches, sculpture, artefacts and decorative art treasures dating from the 15th century all the way to the present day, showcasing all kinds of fascinating treasures from paintings by former Bath resident Thomas Gainsborough and lively satires on Georgian life in Bath by highly acclaimed The Watersplash Henry Herbert La Thangue (1859–1929)

Georgian caricaturist Thomas Rowlandson to a pot by Turner Prize winning contemporary artist Grayson Perry, and a selection of World War I recruitment posters. Eclectic? Yes indeed – but in the most intelligently curated, enlightening way. The gallery’s ground floor space hosts exhibitions that change on a regular basis (generally around every two months) for which an entrance fee is charged, while the permanent collection on the first floor is free to enter. The breathtakingly elegant marble hallway and grand staircase area that links the two floors could be described as a work of art in itself; once navigated, the upper-floor collection brings five centuries of European art together across two rooms in a gracious space flooded by natural light, offering an atmosphere of calm contemplation in which to browse, pause and generally enjoy the culturally enriching experience. It’s an experience for all ages to enjoy, too; families with children in tow are encouraged to immerse themselves in art here (little people love the ‘Art Cart’ available in the upper gallery, full of drawing materials and related activities such as interactive art trail suggestions to capture their attention) and the gallery is proud to be a Children’s University learning destination. Meanwhile, full disabled access and free talks for visually impaired visitors on selected Mondays throughout the year ensure accessibility to all. There isn’t an on-site café but there are plenty to make full use of in the nearby vicinity before or after your visit, and a coinoperated drinks machine and chill-out zone can be found in the gallery’s Rotunda. Before you leave, be sure to make time to visit the ground floor shop to browse a uniquely charming selection of books, arty gifts, postcards, greetings cards and collection/exhibition catalogues. HISTORY Today a Grade II* listed building, the Victoria Art Gallery’s original edifice was designed in 1897 by John McKean Brydon, a Scottish architect who developed a reputation for his expertise in designing public buildings including the St Peter’s Hospital in London’s Henrietta Street (Covent Garden) and Chelsea Public Library on London’s King’s Road. In 1891, Brydon won a competition to enlarge Bath Guildhall – a project that forms a continuous building structure that includes the covered Guildhall Market, the Bath and North East Somerset Council chamber and the city’s Register Offices.

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Built in 1900 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee the Victoria Art Gallery offered a public library downstairs and a gallery upstairs, but was expanded in 1990 to house and display only works of art. Work by painters including Thomas Gainsborough, Thomas Malton and Thomas Barker – all of whom have strong connections to Bath – offer a unique insight into the changing lives and landscapes of the people and places in and around the city of Bath through the ages. Every year, the Victoria Art Gallery showcases work by the cream of the regional contemporary artistic talent, hosting the annual Bath Society of Artists exhibition and offering members of the public the opportunity to vote for their favourite artwork. The BSA was founded in 1904 and many distinguished painters including Patrick Heron, Mary Feddon, Howard Hodgkin and Walter Sickert have exhibited with the society.

In 2023, the Victoria Art Gallery hosted an exhibition with internationally renowned colour expert and fabric designer Kaffe Fassett (Timeless Themes) and fellow American mosaic artist Candace Bahouth (Enchanted Visions) showcasing 23 of Kaffe’s large new quilts, following on from another shared exhibition in 2018, A Celebration of Flowers, which attracted 44,509 visitors. ON SHOW Take a stroll around the Victoria Art Gallery’s exterior and you’ll find Anglo-Italian sculptor Andrea Carlo Lucchesi’s statue of Queen Victoria. There are also friezes of classical figures by fellow New Sculpturist George Anderson Lawson on either side. Inside, Grayson Perry’s Map of Days – purchased by the Art Fund and the Friends of the Victoria Art Gallery – is a fascinating portrayal of the inner working of the artist’s mind, interpreted as a walled city. A few steps away, the historic caricature collection offers a unique POSTCARD from BATH / 77

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VICTORIA ART GALLERY EXHIBITION When Dreams Confront Reality: Surrealism in Britain 13 October – 7 January 2024

Surrealism originated in Paris in 1924, in the aftermath of the First World War while society was seeking to rebuild and make sense of an old order that had been ripped apart. Artists such as Eileen Agar, Roland Penrose and John Banting visited Paris to meet the Surrealists and went on to develop their own unique British Surrealist style, which you can explore in this fascinating exhibition. The show is from The Sherwin Family Collection, arguably the most significant collection of British Surrealism in private ownership. It encompasses the diversity of British Surrealism and European influences, with paintings, collage, drawings, ceramics and sculpture by artists such as Max Ernst, Julian Trevelyan, F.E. McWilliam and Man Ray. When Dreams Confront Reality: Surrealism in Britain is organised by The Hepworth Wakefield in collaboration with the Victoria Art Gallery.

Small Harbour Scene by Paul Klee (1879–1940)

perspective on the artistic interpretation of day-to-day life, putting the spotlight on the Georgian-era Bath social scene and often set against familiar Bath cityscapes such as the Assembly Rooms and the Pump Rooms. Elsewhere, you are greeted in the entrance hall by local artist Sophie Ryder’s playful yet powerful bronze sculpture Lady Hare on a Dog, and don’t miss JW Turner’s haunting, dramatic West Front of Bath Abbey, the ethereal Adoration of the Magi (attributed to 15th-century painter Hugo van der Goes) and a wondrous, highly important portrait of Henry VIII, which has been dated to the mid16th century. Meanwhile, the eclectic array of British porcelain, delicate Georgian perfume bottles and tableware, Bohemian glass and pottery dogs in the gallery’s Decorative Art Collection offers an art gallery version of an Aladdin’s Cave. Not sure which corner of the gallery to explore next? Regular Collection Highlight Tours and Art Store Tours offer visitors the opportunity to join a curator on guided strolls around the gallery’s permanent collection and/or behind the scenes – visit the website for full details and forthcoming dates. The guided tours are free. 

 Visit: The Victoria Art Gallery, Bridge Street, Bath BA2 4AT  Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10.30–5pm (closed 25, 26 Dec and 1 Jan)  Standard ticket price, adult: £7, student: £6.50, child age 6–18: £2.50  Web: victoriagal.org.uk  Tel: 01225 477233

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Below: Installation view at The Hepworth Wakefield © David Lindsay 2022. Artwork in foreground: Frederick Edward McWilliam, The Left Handed Tea Drinker, 1981, bronze. The Sherwin Collection, Leeds, UK. By kind permission of the Estate of F E McWilliam.

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TOUR / BATH’S INDEPENDENT ART SCENE

THE ART GALLERIES OF BATH Bath can boast so many independent galleries as well as wonderfully talented working artists and craftspeople. We can choose to visit the galleries of contemporary artists who combine their studio with a gallery space or see high profile works and an eclectic range of craftwork from different makers, including jewellery, ceramics and art prints. Here are some of the places to visit for uplifting creative inspiration or for one-of-a-kind gift shopping

BEAUX ARTS BATH 12-13 York Street, Bath BA1 1NG Open Monday – Saturday, 10am – 5pm and by appointment Tel: 01225 464850 Web: beauxartsbath.co.uk Founded in 1979, Beaux Arts is the longest established commercial gallery in Bath, and is the sister gallery to Beaux Arts in Mayfair. The gallery specialises in the very best in contemporary painting, sculpture and studio ceramics. Works by well-known artists of the 20th century such as Dame Elisabeth Frink, Sir Terry Frost and Dame Lucie Rie rub shoulders with new luminaries like Nathan Ford, Helen Simmonds, Anna Gillespie and Akiko Hirai. Beaux Arts has a well-earned reputation for curating exciting exhibitions. Artists’ work is given plenty of wallspace and, with its high ceilings and numerous rooms to explore, the gallery is light, airy and an ideal environment in which to enjoy beautiful and thoughtprovoking works of art.

Midwinter Flurry by Rebecca Campbell. 122 x 91 cm. Oil on Canvas

PENCIL TREE GALLERY 5, Cleveland Terrace, Bath BA1 5DF Open Monday – Saturday 10.00am – 4.00pm Tel: 01225 427008 Web: penciltree.co.uk Pencil Tree is a contemporary art gallery selling original art, and limited edition giclée prints, by Paul Jackson. Paul's work is influenced by mid-century design and Californian surf culture. His large abstract pieces draw on the proportions, colours and style of the period. The gallery is open 10-4pm Mon-Sat, please call ahead if you're making a special visit. For original paintings Pencil Tree is happy to bring a selection to your home, so you can be certain of your purchase. Marin County, California #1. Original painting on canvas by Paul Jackson

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TOUR / BATH’S INDEPENDENT ART SCENE

GALLERY NINE 9B Margaret's Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP Open Monday- Saturday 10am-5pm Tel: 01225 319197 Web: galleryninebath.com Founded in 2005, Gallery Nine’s current director Bo Collier whose gallery experience spans 30 years specialises in studio ceramics, jewellery, textiles paintings and original artists prints. Pieces are selected for their quality, originality and craftsmanship. The gallery is frequented by collectors, tourists and local customers alike. The gallery curates an exciting exhibition Merlyn Chesterman, Wood Cut Wave Watching programme three times a year in spring, summer and at Christmas focusing on unique and affordable original British craft and contemporary works of art. The gallery supports the future of it’s artists, established artists and wide ranging potential of emerging and new talents. Gallery Nine can be found in Margaret Buildings , a charming Georgian street with independent shops and galleries.

BATH CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS’ FAIR AT GREEN PARK STATION

Sunday 12 November and Sunday 10 December, 10am – 5pm Web: bcaf.co.uk

Painting by Craig Askew

Like Sunday mornings at the artist square in Montmarte Paris, step into a world of creativity and imagination at the award-winning Bath Contemporary Artists’ Fair (BCAF), where artistic expressions come to life in the heart of the historic city. From April-December, every 2nd Sunday, under the grand canopy of the historic station roof you can browse vast display of paintings, photography, sculpture and ceramics all for sale by talented artists from across the region and beyond. Since its creation in 2021 BCAF has supported over 2000 spaces to exhibiting artists! Make a day of it and enjoy the foodie treats to found at the station too.

HIDDEN GALLERY 14a Margaret's Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP Tel: 01225 251005 Web: hiddengallery.co.uk Hidden Gallery is open Tuesday-Saturday and displays works from artists ranging from Bacon and Banksy through to Ai Weiwei and Warhol. Browse the stunning works and ask for expert advice on investing in art. Whether you're a seasoned collector searching for the next prized addition to your collection or a first-time buyer exploring the world of art, the dedicated team of friendly and knowledgeable experts at Hidden is committed to providing personalised guidance and expertise. Hidden not only offers a curated selection of original artworks but also provides essential guarantees of authenticity and quality. Each artwork is meticulously sourced and inspected, ensuring that it meets rigorous standards. Hidden specializes in framing rare and collectible pieces using conservation standard materials and 99.9% anti-UV glass, safeguarding their beauty for years to come. Moreover the gallery issues a certificate of authenticity, providing you with peace of mind and confidence in your purchase.

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THE AMERICAN MUSEUM & GARDENS Melissa Blease gives us an introduction to the American Museum & Gardens at Claverton Manor

or more than 50 years, the American Museum & Gardens has attracted visitors from across the world to experience the impeccable reconstructions of the rooms of 19th-century American family homes, the vast collection of American decorative arts, crafts and textiles, the array of American Folk Art, and the captivating gardens. And Claverton Manor – the grand, imposing mansion in which the museum is based – has a fascinating history all of its own. Early owners of the estate (dating back to the early 17th century) include British MP Sir Edward Hungerford (d.1607). Ralph Allen – postmaster, philanthropist and former owner of Bath stone quarries, from which most of Bath's most iconic, historic buildings were built – purchased the manor in 1758, restoring and rebuilding it, and creating a peaceful retreat away from the city centre. Although Allen spent most of his time at his Palladian-styled mansion at Prior Park, he visited Claverton regularly and established a tree-lined road that linked the two properties. During the ownership of the Skrine family in 1897, the gardens were the venue for the first public speech by Winston Churchill; a plaque outside the main entrance marks this historic moment. In the years that followed, the house was the headquarters of an RAF

barrage balloon group during the Second World War and after the Bath Domestic Science College used the manor as a hall of residence until 1956. The American Museum story itself begins in 1958 when British antiques dealer John Judkyn and the American psychiatrist and collector Dr Dallas Pratt (partners in both their personal and professional lives) purchased Claverton Manor and eventually turned it into a museum to celebrate American decorative arts and furniture. With the help of furniture restorer Nick Bell Knight and Ian McCallum, who became the museum’s first director, the team worked tirelessly to transform the manor from a state of neardereliction while collecting artefacts and recreating period rooms from old American houses from centuries past, each carefully selected component (including panelling and floors shipped to Britain enabling period rooms to be painstakingly recreated in perfect detail) testifying to the artistry and history of American artisans and domestic life. The American Museum & Gardens opened its doors to the public in 1961. Some 57 years later, the American Museum Gardens were transformed by Washington DC-based landscape gardeners Oehme, van Sweden, marking the company’s first UK commission. The £2m CLAVERTON MANOR COMMANDS SPECTACULAR VIEWS ACROSS THE LIMPLEY STOKE VALLEY

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THE NEW AMERICAN GARDEN

makeover and refurbishment was unveiled by gardener Alan Titchmarsh in 2018. Today, the American Museum and Garden is home to many thousands of items that tell the story of the lives of American people from the earliest settlers all the way up to today both inside and out, while keeping the UK abreast with American contemporary culture. In the spring/early summer of 2023, the museum was the only venue outside of London to showcase the groundbreaking America in Crisis exhibition, which bought 40 leading American photographers together to showcase 120 works exploring social change in the US from the 1960s until the present day. The museum's latest dazzling exhibition Brick America: An Adventure in LEGO® Bricks runs until 31 December 2023. YOUR VISIT The American Museum’s permanent collection includes Dallas Pratt’s map collection (one of the great collections of Renaissance maps) and a dedicated Textile Room showcasing early examples of whole-cloth quilts (including Hawaiian and Amish pieces), appliqué work and a selection of Navajo and New Mexican weavings, rugs, coverlets and samplers. The American Folk Art Collection, meanwhile, is considered to be the greatest of its kind in Europe, featuring portraits, monumental sculptures and stunning carvings, while several immaculately recreated, evocative period room sets allow visitors to step back in time and experience domestic American history in wholly authentic detail. Regular events at the American Museum include weekly pop-up talks and guided garden walks, live music sessions and barbecues. No visit to the American Museum, however, is complete without a refreshment pitstop to sample the authentic flavours of America whilst taking in the panoramic views across Limpley Stoke Valley in the American Garden Deli followed by a bout of retail therapy in the Gallery Shop. 

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The American Museum and Gardens, Claverton Manor, Claverton, Bath BA2 7BD Tel: 01225 460503 Open: Tuesday-Sunday from mid-March to end of December, also Bank Holidays and Mondays during Bath & North East Somerset school holidays. For specific opening times for different parts of the site, admission prices and accessibility details, visit the

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website. Web: americanmuseum.org

Perched on an east-facing limestone bluff adjacent to the main building itself, The American Museum Gardens encapsulate the USA’s garden design revolution borne of trailblazing Washington DC-based landscape architects Wolfgang Oehme and James van Sweden (OvS). OvS sought to rebuke the tyranny of the lawn and ‘foundational planting’ and instead to evoke the grandeur of the American prairies and introduce a new palette of plants. The 2.5-acre New American Gardens at the American Museum was opened in 2018 and offers visitors the unique opportunity to browse the designs that represent the OvS vision. The design hinges on the circuitous Winding Way pathway that took inspiration from Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello and connects the gardens (including a children's garden), arboretum, house, exhibition space and café, with wheelchair and buggy-friendly access encouraging every visitor to see everything on offer, with the wilderness trail and surrounding parklands offering potential for further exploration. Splashes of vibrant colour nestle in all the borders, native American fauna adds fascination, swathes of grasses and plumes whisper on the breeze and heavy-set blooms add depth and gravitas, alongside glorious panoramic views of the Limpley Stoke Valley and a turf amphitheatre nestling into the natural topography, used to host outdoor music and theatre events at the museum. Six larger-than-life bust sculptures of key figures from American history are featured along the garden's pathways, including President Abraham Lincoln and Founding Father Alexander Hamilton, created by British sculptor Angela Conner. The museum’s head gardener Andrew Cannell has made extensive changes to the Mount Vernon Garden, following new research into how President George Washington’s garden looked during his lifetime; the Parterre now features 2,100 Buxus microphylla ‘Herrenhausen’ plants laid out as an enormous fleur-de-lis, paying homage to the Marquis de Lafayette – a French aristocrat and military officer who led American troops in the Continental Army during the War of Independence, and who became a lifelong friend of Washington.

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CITY HISTORY

JANE AUSTEN’S LIFE IN BATH Jane Austen is one of Bath’s most famous former residents, but in her real life, as in her novels, she was aware of the contrast between the splendid and the seedy in the city, says associate professor in 18th and 19th century literature, Dr Felicity James

dreary, rainy November afternoon in 1797. A carriage bumps over the wet streets, dodging rumbling carts and drays. The young women inside look at one another with eager excitement. Everything seems to promise pleasure, from the bawling of the newsmen, muffinmen and milkmen, to the chinking of pattens as ladies dash from shop to shop, clutching their bonnets against the rain. The carriage pulls up at Number One, Paragon Buildings. Jane Austen, 21 years old, had arrived in Bath. Jane, Cassandra and their mother stayed with their wealthy relatives, the Leigh-Perrots, in Paragon Buildings, where their gouty uncle came every winter to take the waters. The city had special significance for the Austen family – Jane’s mother and father had met there and had married there. It came to have a role in Jane’s creative life, since both her first and last full-length novels were inspired by the city: Northanger Abbey, begun in 1797, and Persuasion in 1815. They feature very different heroines, but they both show Austen’s fascination with the social panorama Bath provided. In Northanger Abbey the heroine Catherine expresses ‘eager delight’ on arriving in Bath – ‘her eyes were here, there, every where, as they approached its fine and striking environs’ – and she breathlessly visits all the tourist attractions. This reflects Austen’s own excitement in her early encounters with the city. Her letters to Cassandra about her adventures in Bath in 1799 are written in lively, sociable, holiday spirits, reporting to her sister on the latest fashions – would Cassandra prefer flowers or fruit as a decoration for her new hat? Jane used to attend evening entertainments, including a grand gala with music, illuminations and fireworks in Sydney Gardens. The concert promised to be tolerable – after all, she writes, tongue-in-cheek, ‘the Gardens are large enough for me to get pretty well beyond the reach of its sound’ – and the fireworks turned out to be ‘really beautiful’. Moreover, the circulating libraries of Bath could feed the Austen sisters’ fondness for up-to-date books, shared by the heroine of Northanger Abbey. Catherine’s trips to the Pump Rooms, the Upper and Lower Rooms, and the baths are underscored by her addiction to the wild Gothic world of 1790s novels. ‘Yes, novels,’ exclaims Austen, ‘…in which the greatest powers of the mind are displayed’. Austen had clearly also learned to read the dangerous side of

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the city. As historian Peter Borsay points out, the Bath which appears in Northanger Abbey has two sides: ‘a place of potential and opportunity which nurtured good and evil alike’. In the 1987 BBC production grotesque socialites lurk in the Pump Room, bewigged and bonnetted, their wrinkles slathered over with rouge, while wicked seducers hover on the sidelines. Andrew Davies’ delicate adaptation for ITV in 2007 shows a more romantic side of Bath, albeit with a dangerous undertow of flirtation. Candlelit, soft and rosy, it contrasts vividly with the dark, sexy horror of Catherine’s dream-life, inspired by Mrs Radcliffe’s romances. The innocent Felicity Jones floats along in pale muslin as Catherine. She looks, as Davies admits, ‘slightly too pretty for Catherine’, but amply brings out the eager happiness of this first encounter with Bath. Northanger Abbey is a tale of teenage excitement, but Austen’s return to Bath as a setting for her later novel, Persuasion, is subtler, deeper and sadder. At 27, Anne Elliot has lost her bloom. Faded, ‘haggard’, she seems to have said goodbye to her hopes of marriage when she turned down her first suitor, Wentworth, faced with the disapproval of her snobbish family. Now, eight years on, Wentworth is back, prosperous, happy and successful. But he has not forgiven Anne, who had ‘used him ill’ – she has to watch silently as he flirts with the pretty young Musgrove girls. This story of lost love and regret has long been linked to Austen herself – Jane was haunted by her own earlier love affairs – nostalgic memories which feed into Persuasion. Anne’s dislike of Bath – uprooted from the country home she loves, forced by family circumstance into ‘something very opposite from her inclination’ – has also been taken to be Austen’s own view. Although she enjoyed her visits to the city, moving there permanently, on her father’s retirement from the vicarage at Steventon, seems not to have appealed. Her sister-inlaw Mary Lloyd Austen reported that Jane was ‘greatly distressed’, and her great-nephew claims, ‘The shock of the intelligence was so great that she fainted away’. She seems to have ceased writing during those years in Bath. Save one abortive effort, The Watsons, her creativity seems to have been put on hold from 1801 until 1809, when she moved with her mother and sister in a house on her brother’s estate in Chawton, Hampshire. Jane’s six completed novels were all revised or written at Chawton – at her death, she was just coming into her prime as a

A portrait of Jane Austen, University of Texas Libraries, The University of Texas at Austin, wikicomons.com

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OT AINLY DID N AND I CERT E ABOUT THE T O U Q T A H T SAY ‘BESTEST WILD CAFÉ’S H’... FULL ENGLIS hough!

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IMAGE: Thomas Rowlandson, A Master of Ceremonies introducing a partner, bathintime.co.uk, Bath Central Library

writer. Her masterpiece Emma took just over a year to write, from 1814 to 1815; Persuasion was written at a similar pace and finished in August 1816, and she had begun another novel, Sanditon, when she died. These last works, lively and experimental, tackle social transition and change much more openly than Austen’s previous novels. While Persuasion’s Captain Wentworth has made his fortune in the Napoleonic Wars, the titled Elliots have sunk into debt and have to leave their ancestral home to go and live in Bath. Bath itself has also changed. When Austen visited in 1799, she had been happy to stay in Queen Square. But the Musgrove sisters in Persuasion, won’t settle for such a backwater. ‘We must be in a good situation,’ they tell their father, ‘none of your Queensquares for us!’ Other, more fashionable visitors had deserted the city altogether, in favour of new spa towns. Even in the 1790s, despite the lively social gatherings depicted in Northanger Abbey, the city was already sinking into decline as a fashionable destination. By 1801, after the Austens’ move, Jane was reporting on the poor showing at the dances: ‘Think of four couples,’ she tells Cassandra, ‘surrounded by about a hundred people, dancing in the upper rooms at Bath!’ This view of Bath is seconded by Anne Elliot, who shies away from what she terms the ‘littlenesses’ of the town, its petty snobberies and vanities. Her father delights in courting titled acquaintances, and expressing his disdain for his fellow spagoers. He is inordinately proud of his rented house in Camden Place – showy and expensive, but built on unstable ground which

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meant that the upper crescent could never be completed. It’s the perfect symbol for his superficial vanity. Anne, on the other hand, seeks out the less fortunate, spending her time in the cramped rooms of her invalid friend, and persisting in her ‘disinclination for Bath’. But it is Bath that finally allows Anne her happy ending. Here she meets Captain Wentworth once again. In an apartment at the White Hart, he pens his declaration of love, and in the ‘comparatively quiet and retired gravel-walk’, between Queen Square and the Royal Crescent, they finally share their feelings, looking only at each other, ‘seeing neither sauntering politicians, bustling house-keepers, flirting girls, nor nursery-maids and children’. Perhaps this is a clue to Austen’s own view of the city. While she takes a sceptical look at its sauntering, flirting bustle, she finds a place for her romance within it. Bath prompted her earliest novel, and inspired her as a mature writer – it produced a sparkling comedy and a story of love and loss. From irrepressible flirts and Gothic villains, to the heartfelt love of Anne and Wentworth, the city was a lifelong source of inspiration for Jane Austen. 

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Visit the Jane Austen Centre in Bath for a snapshot of life during Regency times and explore how living in the city affected Jane Austen and her writing. Jane Austen Centre, 40 Gay Street, Bath Tel: 01225 443000 Web: janeausten.co.uk

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CITY PLEASURES / AFTERNOON TEA

AFTERNOON DELIGHTS To experience the best of the afternoon tea tradition, why not indulge yourself with a trip to one of Bath’s finest hotels or visit one of the quaint tearooms?

THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA HOTEL Beau Street, Bath BA1 1QY Tel: 01225 358888 Web: thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk What could epitomise ‘the Bath experience’ more perfectly than taking an afternoon tea in the classic, yet irrefutably modern Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel? This is an experience for both locals and visitors. Your traditional afternoon tea will be served in the glamorous atmosphere of the fashionable Canvas Room, where you can sit, chat and enjoy the stylish surroundings. The delectable selection of sandwiches, scones, cakes and refreshments comes with the additional option of Champagne if you wish to make your experience that little bit more indulgent. Afternoon tea at The Gainsborough is £38 per person, or £56 with a glass of Champagne, and is served every day from 3 – 5.00pm. Booking is essential.

ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Tel: 01225 823333 Web: royalcrescent.co.uk Relax in the beautiful location of the iconic Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa and catch up with friends over a chilled glass of Champagne and a delectable selection of scones and sandwiches. The hotel’s unique selection of three afternoon teas include beautiful finger sandwiches, delicate cakes and savouries, the finest world teas and some of Bath’s best scones and buns. This most decadent of British traditions is complemented by a choice of Hoogly Teas. Using the finest natural ingredients, all Hoogly teas are ethically sourced and fairly traded, vegan and gluten free with no added sugar or preservatives. Then there’s the option of adding some sparkle to the occasion with a flute or flight of Taittinger Champagne. Afternoon Teas, (including a dedicated Children’s Afternoon Tea) are served daily between 1.00pm and 4.00pm in the new Montagu's Mews’ bar, restaurant and dining terrace – or on a warm day in the glorious garden. £42 per person or £22 per child

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ROBUN 4 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath, BA1 2ED Tel: 01225 433200 Web: robun.co.uk And now for something completely different! Taking inspiration from across Japan, Robun’s afternoon tea offers a truly unique experience in the heart of Bath. Swapping sandwiches for sushi and scones for bao buns, this beautifully presented afternoon tea features some of the standout dishes from Robun’s menu of yakiniku, sushi and sashimi sharing plates, alongside sweet treats including miso cake and mochi ice cream – all served with a selection of traditional Japanese teas and the option of sparkling wine. Served from Tuesday – Sunday, midday until 5pm, Robun’s Japanese afternoon tea is available for £28 per person. Trust us... this is good.

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A LITTLE LIGHT READING

The idea of afternoon tea was introduced to England by Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, in 1840. The Duchess would start to feel hungry around four o’clock in the afternoon, but the evening meal in her household was served fashionably late at eight o’clock, leaving a long period of time between lunch and dinner. The Duchess asked that a tray of tea, bread and butter (the latter a relatively new innovation by the Earl of Sandwich which involved putting a filling between two slices of bread) and cake to be brought to her room in the late afternoon. This became a habit and she began inviting friends to join her.

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There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea – HENRY JAMES –

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This pause for tea evolved into a fashionable social event. Soon the upper classes and society women would change into long gowns and put on gloves and hats for their afternoon tea which was usually served between four and five o’clock in the drawing room, or in the garden on a warm, sunny day. Traditional afternoon tea consists of a selection of dainty sandwiches (thinly sliced cucumber sandwiches should always be included) and scones served with clotted cream and preserves as well as a selection of cakes and pastries. Tea grown in India or Ceylon is poured from silver tea pots into delicate bone china cups.

BATH SPA HOTEL Sydney Road, Bath BA2 6NS Tel: 0344 879 9106 Web: macdonaldhotels.co.uk Take a seat in the drawing room and treat yourself to a luxury afternoon tea at the historic Bath Spa Hotel. Within this stunning setting, you’ll be served a traditional selection of tasty sandwiches, delicately crafted cakes from the in-house pastry chef and, of course, freshly baked scones – served with gooey jam and clotted cream. Enjoy a peaceful moment overlooking the gardens, and if you’re celebrating, why not order a glass of champagne to add a little something extra? You’ll find that the hotel has a relaxed, cheerful atmosphere, so whether you’re emerging from the spa in your comfy white robe or attending in your best dress – everybody is welcome. Afternoon Tea is £30 per person, or £45 with a glass of Laurent-Perrier. This is served between 2 – 5pm, Monday – Sunday. Advanced booking recommended.

LUCKNAM PARK HOTEL Colerne SN14 8AZ Tel: 01225 742777 Web: lucknampark.co.uk Indulge in a traditional English afternoon tea at this 18th-century mansion set in 500 acres of magnificent gardens and parkland. Tea at Lucknam Park is a firm favourite, whether it’s for a special occasion or a treat after shopping in Bath, which is only six miles away. You will be able to enjoy a full English afternoon tea from £44 per person, (£62 with a glass of Joseph Perrier Champagne) served in the library or drawing room overlooking the gardens, or on the terrace on a warm day. Afternoon tea is available Monday to Saturday 1.30 – 5pm, Sunday 3 – 5pm. Reservations are recommended. POSTCARD from BATH / 89

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POSTCARDS

THE PUMP ROOM Refined but welcoming; genteel but with a polished background buzz of conviviality – no visit to Bath would be complete without a visit to the Pump Room. Melissa Blease explores this exclusive comfort stop

f a tour of the Roman Baths complex is integral to your discovery of Bath, a refreshment break at the Pump Room (under the same roof) is equally unforgettable. It’s possible, however, to indulge your senses in this elegant, neo-classical salon as a stand-alone, relaxing refuelling zone – as indeed, many Bath locals do, maintaining a Heritage City tradition that began more than two centuries ago. This bastion of good taste has offered a civilised backdrop to all manner of social intercourse events since 1799. Opening early for breakfast, morning coffee and brunch before afternoon tea (and dinner from 22 July – 31 August), the atmosphere is defined by the exquisitely dignified surroundings with sparkling chandeliers, Corinthian columns and tables adorned with crisp linen and gleaming tableware. Once at your table, polite, efficient staff cater to your every whim, while the Pump Room trio or a pianist provide elegant musical accompaniment. It’s a room with a view, too – either across the Roman Baths from the windows towards the rear of the salon, or over Abbey Square from tables towards the front of the building.

THE PUMP ROOM FOUNTAIN

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HISTORY The thirst for ‘partaking of’ the thermal waters of Bath – once believed to offer healing properties – became so popular during the late 17th century that a pump was installed to allow public access water sourced directly from the spring. In the early 18th century, British physician and philanthropist William Oliver persuaded the Bath Corporation to erect buildings where the drinkers could be sheltered – a popular initiative that included the main Pump Room and the Hetling Pump Room, today the location of the Thermae Bath Spa Visitor Shop. As the popularity of Bath as a spa destination grew, the Pump Room could no longer accommodate the scores of people keen to drink the water, so multiple extensions and improvements were made to the building. Along with the Lower Assembly Rooms and Sydney Gardens and hotel, The Pump Room eventually completed the triangle of locations that drew Georgian ‘high society’. The original Pump Room building was designed by John Harvey to specifications requested by Bath’s Master of Ceremonies Beau Nash in 1706, before the discovery of the Roman remains. The foundations of the Roman temple precinct were discovered during preparatory excavations for designs by Thomas Baldwin who took the project over from John Harvey, but whose designs were also never completed. When Baldwin was declared bankrupt in 1793, his long-time rival (and official city architect) John Palmer continued the scheme to his own plans. The Pump Room was opened to the public by the Duchess of York in 1795 and finished in 1799. Live music has been performed here since the opening of the original building in 1706, a tradition upheld by the highly acclaimed Pump Room Trio (the longest established resident ensemble in Europe) today, while the original Pump Room Orchestra is believed to be the first resident band in the country to play in an assembly room. When Baroque composer Handel visited Bath in 1749, he collaborated with Bath-born composer and organist Thomas Chilcot in support of the Pump Room band, English tenor and musician Thomas Linley and astrologer/ composer William Herschel both played in the band during the 1760s, and Gustav Holst was a guest conductor during the early 20th century. The Pump Room became a restaurant during the Second World War, and escaped destruction during the Baedeker Air Raids on Bath in 1942.

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AFTERNOON TEA IS SERVED

Historical figures who have visited To take the waters include Jane Austen (who used the backdrop as a setting for key scenes in both Northanger Abbey and Persuasion), Charles Dickens (whose iconic character Mr Pickwick in his first novel The Pickwick Papers, published in 1836, was urged to take the waters by his faithful servant Sam Weller), American showman Buffalo Bill and the Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie, who spent his exile in Bath between 1936–41. YOUR VISIT Brunch and elegant elevenses are served in the Pump Room until 11.30pm, and Summer Evening Dining in the summer months. But it’s tea at the Pump Room (always accompanied by live music courtesy of a resident pianist or the famous Pump Room Trio) that’s one not to miss for afternoon tea aficionados. It’s possible, of course, to simply order a pot of tea and a freshly baked scone and leave refreshed, fulfilled and relaxed. But if you choose to elevate your perspective of afternoon delights to the next level, you’ve most definitely come to the right place; expect to encounter a thoughtful collection of freshly prepared sweet and savoury treats together on one (or possibly several) multi-tiered presentation stands, to be served on exquisite fine bone china. A selection of loose leaf teas or hand-roasted coffee comes as standard and can be refilled as many times as you wish. Searcy’s – the catering company hard at work behind the scenes here are also renowned for their incredible range of Champagnes. It’s possible, too, to take a free sample of the mineral-rich spa water on which the city’s original foundations were built, freshly

drawn by a ‘pumper’ from an ornate fountain at the epicentre of the dining room – but be warned: it’s an acquired taste. 

 The Pump Room, Abbey Church Yard, Bath BA1 1LZ  Open daily (closed 25 and 26 Dec). Morning bakery and brunch, Afternoon Tea, Summer Evening Dining: 22 July – 31 August

 Book a table online or tel: 01225 444477 Walk-in tables are available daily  Web: thepumproombath.co.uk

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CONVERSATIONS

THE GENERAL MANAGER There’s a hotel right in the centre of Bath that appeals to businesses and individuals in equal measure – meet the General Manager of the Apex Hotel, Michael Musgrave

luxurious four-star hotel with 178 bedrooms, a spa, gym and swimming pool and the largest conference centre in the city, Apex Hotel Bath in James Street West has an all-round offering. General Manager Michael Musgrave knows this well: “We are the only purpose-built conference centre in the city and we have the largest space and capacity, able to cater for 300 for dinner and 400 in the conference centre.” The hotel’s balance of corporate and family appeal is its greatest strength. “If we look at city centre hotels in Bath, there’s not much corporate choice. What gives us the edge is our conference centre, where we host corporate events, many residential, which sees large groups come in for two to three days. That’s what sells the hotel because we have the space to accommodate 400 people here for a conference, and they might also take 120 or more bedrooms.” It’s not just the space; it’s the technology that gives the business facilities an edge, explains Michael. “We do conferencing really well, and we’ve got great technology. Our Lansdown Suite is fitted with ceiling-mounted pendant speakers and ceiling-mounted subwoofers, drop-down screens and ceiling-mounted projectors. We provide two handheld radio microphones and two tie-clip microphones. Our first floor meeting rooms have flat screen TVs which can be connected to over Wi-Fi, HDMI or VGA cable. We have upgraded two meeting rooms with Barco click-share technology, so you can connect with audiences via MS Teams, Skype, Zoom etc. The rooms also have a camera that zooms in and out focusing upon the speaker.” The Apex City of Bath also offers generous leisure facilities, including a swimming pool, sauna, steam room, lounge and a small gym, the latter open for 24 hours, all of which appeal to individual visitors and families. “Families love this hotel because of the swimming pool. It comfortably accommodates 20 people, and it’s especially popular in the summertime when children are in their element”, says Michael. Originally from Cookstown in County Tyrone, Michael’s journey to Bath has been a roundabout one. He started working in a small hotel with just 12 bedrooms in Cookstown and followed this with a National Diploma in European Hotel and Tourism, including a month’s placement in Kitzbuhel in Austria, and loved it. “It opened up my eyes, broadened my horizons.” His degree in Hospitality Management at Ulster University included a year’s placement in Morristown, New Jersey in the USA. His first role after graduating was in Belfast with the Jurys Doyle Hotel Group, then in Dublin at the luxury 5* Westbury Hotel, then Southampton, for the opening up of a new 270-bedroom hotel as

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Front Office Manager. This was followed by a four-year stint at the Bloomsbury Hotel, London where he was Front Office Manager, then Food and Beverage Manager. He became Deputy General Manager and helped oversee a £15-million refurbishment, while the hotel remained open and trading. Successive roles were at hotels in Edinburgh and London. Michael has been with Apex Hotels for five years, joining shortly after its opening in 2017. He says that the role of a general manager is multi-faceted, but always revolves around people. “I’m very much a people person. So when I come in I like to walk around the departments and say hello to the teams, to make sure everything is in a good place, in the kitchen and with housekeeping, which is one of the toughest departments to work in.” And with 178 rooms you can understand the pressure… Checking deliveries have arrived, including the linen, and identifying any challenges to resolve to ensure the hotel’s smooth running is followed by looking at business numbers. “We look to see how many rooms we’ve picked up and sold for the next month or two and go through any new opinion surveys, analysing the positives and any negative comments.” And that’s all before the morning meeting, checking that breakfast went well and finding out about the evening menu, ensuring there are enough people to cover any scheduled events. “Hotels and management have changed a lot from when I was growing up. General managers were quite hands off – I’m not like that, I’m very much part of the team. After Covid I had to spend a lot of my time hoovering and cleaning rooms because I needed to get people into the rooms. You’ve got to think of everything.” Another of Michael’s roles is heading up the charity committee for the hotel group, looking at what the various Apex hotels can do to raise funds for the charities they work with. There’s also a big emphasis on sustainability and an ongoing analysis of how to improve the hotel’s use of energy and the amount of food waste. There are two beehives on the hotel roof (with honey used for cocktails), a green roof with sedum and a large herb garden made from repurposed wooden pallets. There are around 78 full-time staff and 40 casual staff and Michael knows 98% of them by name. “I also do a monthly bulletin for the team about what’s happening in the hotel and I have a column that I translate into Ukrainian, because we had a big influx of Ukrainian staff last year. People – visitors and staff – are the biggest thing for me here – I just want to see them happy.”  Apex Hotel, James Street West, Bath BA1 2DA; apexhotels.co.uk

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POSTCARDS

THERMAE BATH SPA Laden with historic legend and offering a gracefully therapeutic experience today, Bath's hot springs are a buoyant natural resource, unique in the UK. Melissa Blease dives into the Thermae Bath Spa

ver the centuries, Bath has been built and developed around the natural, geothermally heated, mineral-rich springs that flow beneath the city’s historical Roman remains. Today, the Thermae Bath Spa – which opened its doors to the public in 2006 – enjoys superstar status at the epicentre of modern-day life in the city, reintroducing the ancient customs of spa culture to locals and visitors alike. The Thermae Bath Spa brings together two grand baths, a rooftop pool, a wellness suite, a stand-alone pool on a sacred site,

a café, a visitor centre and a shop. This is a sleekly designed complex where spa facilities and state-of-the-art design flourish together against a ‘uniquely Bath’ backdrop. The Spa offers a memorable, relaxing experience for water babies, those in need of refuge from the stresses and strains of modern life and grand design enthusiasts. The Thermae Bath Spa neither detracts from nor dominates its surroundings; even though the main building is largely wrapped in stainless steel and multiple sheets of glass, the height and scale pay subtle, respectful homage to the surrounding structures.

YOUR VISIT

THE ROMAN STEAM ROOM

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Although it tops the ‘Must Do’ list for around 290,000 visitors every year, the Thermae Bath Spa attracts locals as well as tourists. The clever layout encourages visitors to wander freely from space to space, so it’s always possible to find yourself a quiet, secluded oasis of blissful tranquility. A standard two-hour spa session allows you to experience the Thermae Bath Spa at your own pace: make a gentle splash in the glamorous Minerva Bath (the largest of the baths), relax in the multi-sensory Wellness Suite and float around the spectacular Rooftop Pool, which offers breathtaking views over the city and is naturally warm and steamy at any hour of the day or night. If you fancy a refreshment break, don’t worry about revisiting your locker for your wallet; purchases at the Springs Café are charged to your TBS SmartBand and paid for on exit. The extensive Spa Treatment menu (which must be booked at the same time as a standard spa session) offers around 20 treatments and therapies, ranging from traditional or hot stone massage to pampering face and body treatments. The Thermae Bath Spa’s array of signature treatments includes the exotic Frangipani Delight exfoliation ritual to nourish and cocoon the body in moisture, while buffing the skin to reveal a radiant, renewed glow and harmonised mind. Then there is the Inner Peace Massage, the perfect experience for those looking to enjoy some self-care, with a guided inhalation, a relaxing back massage and soothing mud mask on the feet. There are also tempting treatment options for mums-to-be and couples. Want a quick fix? Pop into the Cross Bath – an intimate, standalone facility with its own open-air thermal bath – for a 90-minute session, and experience instant nirvana.

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HOT TUB IN THE MINERVA BATHS

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HISTORY In 1995 Bath and North East Somerset Council applied to the National Lottery for new project funding to regenerate Bath’s reputation as a modern-day spa destination. Two years later, the Millennium Commission granted the Bath Spa Project £7.78m to restore five historic buildings including the 18th-century Hot Bath, the ancient Cross Bath and the New Royal Bath: the stunning glass and stone edifice designed by internationally acclaimed architects Sir Nicholas Grimshaw and Partners, today housing the main spa complex. Until the spa restoration was completed in 2006, the thermal waters that flowed from the springs, which naturally contain over 42 minerals and trace elements, was rerouted to pour into the River Avon. Today, over one million litres of this natural resource is used in the Thermae Bath Spa. The Hot Bath (a Grade II* listed building) dates from 1777, designed by architect John Wood the Younger. The Cross Bath enjoys designated Sacred Site status within the World Wildlife Fund for Nature’s Sacred Land Project. The original site and

water source has origins that date back to a time and place before any form of records were kept, but he structure that surrounds the Cross Bath was rebuilt by 18th-century architect to the City of Bath John Palmer and his predecessor Thomas Baldwin in 1789 on the site of a medieval bath and on the original more than 2,000-year-old Roman Cistern. 

 Visit: Thermae Bath Spa, Hot Bath Street, Bath BA1 1SJ  Open daily from 9am – 9.30pm, excluding Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day. Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve opening times are 9am–8pm.

 Standard two-hour session £40 (weekday), £45

(weekend), includes use of towel, robe. See web for special packages and add-on treatments

 Web: thermaebathspa.com  Tel: 01225 331234

OPEN-AIR ROOFTOP POOL

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Magnolia and Palmarosa Euphoric Body Lotion - £28 for 500ml

BODY CARE & AROMATHERAPY PRODUCTS PROMOTING WELLBEING & MINDFULNESS Kind to you: Botanical ingredients expertly blended with pure essential oils to create nurturing products with therapeutic benefits. Kind to others: All of Ubiety’s profits go to Dorothy House Hospice Care to help fund end of life care to a growing number of patients with a life-limiting illness, as well as supporting their families and carers. Kind to the environment: Made in Somerset and Wiltshire, natural, vegan-friendly, cruelty-free, ethically-sourced ingredients and packaged in glass. Shop UBIETY in Bath at: Always Sunday, 9 Broad Street, Find Ubiety, 2 Piccadilly Place, London Road. The Soul Spa, 2 Hetling Court.

findubiety.com

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SPA SANCTUARY Salt water plunges, vitamin-enriched facials, pedicures, saunas and steam rooms. Crystal Rose rounds up a few favourite places for a good pampering session

Find tranquility at the Bath Spa Hotel’s indulgent spa

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ath’s spa scene is stacked with world-class pampering possibilities. From the UK’s only geo-thermically heated pool to VIP treatments at first class hotels, the city certainly has a lot to offer. With so many choices, Bath is the perfect place to relax and unwind. Whether you’re visiting for a special occasion or to simply tick it off the must-do list, you won’t find these facilities anywhere else. Book in, turn up and switch off. There are hydro-spa beds, dual treatment rooms, social lounges, sensory and wellbeing experiences to soothe as well as invigorate. And, if that’s not good enough, how about full use of the fitness facilities, a beauty treatment or timetabled exercise classes? There’s something for everyone, whatever your heart desires and your body craves. Grab your robe and slippers and dip a toe into our little spa round-up of the best places around. You may be spoilt for choice, but we promise you won’t be disappointed. After all, you have just landed in the city of spas. Enjoy.

The pool at the Apex City of Bath Hotel’s leisure facility

APEX CITY OF BATH HOTEL James Street West, Bath BA1 2DA Web: apexhotels.co.uk If it’s heated beds and a pool with a beautiful waterfall feature you’re wishing for then look no further. The Apex City of Bath Hotel offers an oasis of calm in the city. Expect warm ambient temperatures, a relaxing atmosphere and aromatherapy dosing systems, which allow essential oils to be infused into the shower area. There’s a steam room, sauna and shower experience all situated around the pool area. Look out for the cold bucket treatment that’s designed to rejuventate and reinvigorate tired bodies. What’s more, you can also head to the state-of-the-art gym within the four-star hotel if it’s a workout you’re in need of. Featuring a range of cardio, free weights and resistance equipment, it’s the perfect place to work up a sweat before unwinding in the spa. Take a break from the stresses and strains of everyday life in this little oasis of tranquility.

THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA Beau Street, Bath BA1 1QY Web: thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk As the sole geo-thermically heated pool in the UK, The Gainsborough Bath Spa is unique. Why not try out the couples’ yoga sessions or the ice alcove for a shockingly refreshing treat? With two natural thermal pools of varying temperatures, infrared and traditional saunas, an ice alcove, steam room and elegant relaxation areas, prepare to be truly spoilt for choice. The Gainsborough Bath Spa offers 11 treatment rooms, including a couple’s room and a VIP suite. Enjoy an award-winning Asian therapy in one of the specially designed tatami rooms. Facilities also include a fitness gym and relaxation terrace. The treatments available include natural exfoliant body scrubs, organic facials, aquatic body therapies and Thai, Swedish and hot stone massages. For complete relaxation, experience a Spa Day package and enjoy the facilities, a 60 or 90-minute treatment, a personalised aromatherapy blending session and a two-course lunch or afternoon tea. Prices from £150 per person.

The thermal pool at the Gainsborough Bath Spa

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BATH SPA HOTEL Sydney Road, Bath BA2 6NS Web: macdonaldhotels.co.uk

THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL & SPA 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Web: royalcrescent.co.uk

Escape from reality and take some time out at Macdonald Bath Spa. Using none other than ELEMIS products, your skin is in great hands here. From the signature ultimate wellness face and body treatment to the superfood proradiance facial, the choice is all yours. Or you could put your best foot forward with a 25-minute tension releaser. Men can enjoy a biotec super-charger facial, freestyle deep tissue massage and a high performance skin energiser. With ELEMIS at the spa’s core, all treatments will provide you with the sanctuary that you deserve. Enjoy state-of-theart gym equipment, a sensuous spa and a gorgeous pool to dip into. Performed on a pear-shaped beanbag that moulds to every bump, there’s also a peaceful pregnancy massage available to restore wellbeing.

Nestled within the opulent surroundings of the esteemed Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath, The Spa & Bath House beckons. Immerse yourself in sheer bliss of the 12-meter heated relaxation pool or for those seeking rejuvenation, the vitality pool awaits, equipped with strategically placed massage jets designed to alleviate the tension that may have accumulated in your back and calves. Fitness enthusiasts will find solace in the fully equipped fitness room, furnished with cutting-edge Power Plate technology, and when it's time to surrender to pampering, you'll discover six meticulously designed treatment rooms, where the expert staff provide a range of rejuvenating therapies from TempleSpa, as well as sumptuous manicures and pedicures by Jessica Nails. For details of the Spa Day packages as well as memberships visit the website and let your journey to tranquillity and well-being begin.

LUCKNAM PARK HOTEL & SPA Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Web: lucknampark.co.uk Expect elegant walled gardens, a 20-metre indoor swimming pool, indoor and outdoor hydrotherapy pools, thermal cabins, experience showers and an outdoor salt water plunge pool. Make the most of the surrounding countryside with a calming outdoor yoga class, a workout at the outdoor gym or a relaxing stroll through the charming gardens. The ESPA spa at Lucknam Park has eight treatment rooms where the expert therapists perform a range of personalised and indulgent spa treatments. There’s even a pre-treatment social lounge with a product mixology bar available to help get your experience off to a flying start. A variety of treatments include mother-to-be packages, facials, manicures and pedicures and a body therapy collection. Men can also enjoy a selection of treatments including the ESPA triple effect focusing on the back, face and scalp. Sounds like pure heaven...

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food & drink

BATH’S TOP TABLES When it comes to eating out, Bath is blessed with a superb range of cuisines and culinary delights from around the world. We go behind the menus of the city’s favourite eateries – tuck in!

ath is paradise for bon viveurs of every persuasion. There are hundreds of all-tastes, all-budgets, panglobal cuisine opportunities, from Michelin flagship restaurants and cutting-edge media darlings to the perfect post-pub bag of hot chips. Eat on the hoof, or lounging on a plush banquette with views across an awardwinning private garden. Take time out for an impromptu lunch in a cosy cafe, or book a table at the coolest dining room in town. Go sixcourse tasting menu or top up with tapas. Whatever your appetite, just do it – and prepare to indulge your senses.

cheese and charcuterie boards at Comptoir+Cuisine on George Street. But if it’s a Brit lunch you need, there’s no better place to enjoy the best ever fish and chips than at The Scallop Shell in Monmouth Street - it is just a must when in Bath. For quick bites and take-out sarnies there are brillaint delis to enjoy such as Chandos Deli on George Street, The Fine Cheese Company on Walcot Street, or many of the coffee shops serve locally sourced and wrapped sandwiches, all ready to go, try Picnic Coffee on the corner of Saracen and Walcot Street.

BREAKFAST TO BRUNCH The lavish Georgian wake-up calls so beloved of Jane Austen’s times still impact on life in Bath today. Breakfast and brunch are big here; from bacon butties to shakshuka via passionfruit pancakes and prosecco. Several of the establishments that line leafy, historic Kingsmead Square vie for the accolade of serving the best breakfast in Bath. The city centre branch of the Boston Tea Party was one of this small, independently owned chain’s very first establishments. BTP menus are all good stuff, but the all-day brunch menus hold legendary status. Local produce is pushed to the fore at the Kingsmead Kitchen too, while the Society Café (with its amazing coffee – and damned good almond croissants) is a buzzing Bath hotspot from the minute it opens. According to the little sign hanging on the wall outside the Wild Café (Queen Street), Jane Austen declared the full English breakfast served here to be “the bestest in town.” Okay, so Austen might not have actually said that but the Wild Café’s breakfast menu is, indeed a thing of beauty, try the full English blowout via pancake stacks and eggs royale, Florentine or Benedict. Vegetarian options abound and pretty much everything is made on the premises to order, using local, seasonal ingredients.

TEA, COFFEE AND CAKES Nothing cheers up a dreary autumn/winter day than the prospect of a cosy, treatsome afternoon tea – and variations of the afternoon delights theme are abundant in Bath. Go grand at the Pump Room in Abbey Churchyard – their Beau Nash cream tea includes smoked Scottish salmon and cucumber pikelet with Cuvée Brut. Alternatively try a spectacular assortment of sandwiches, pastries and cakes at the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel on Beau Street, or escape the city walls to The Bath Priory (Weston Road) or the splendour of the Royal Crescent Hotel. Go modern-elegant at The Ivy Bath Brasserie on Milsom Street with options such as truffled chicken brioche roll and freshly baked scones. Do the Jane Austenstyle thing at the Regency Tea Rooms on Gay Street – served by figures in regency regalia, you can indulge in Mrs Bennet’s cake, or sample a characterful taste of the city’s history at Sally Lunns on North Parade Passage (the etiquette here is to eat your bun with a knife and fork). You can also dive into a huge pot of tea and a massive slab of homemade scrumptiousness at Mokoko (Abbey Churchyard), Café Lucca (Bartlett Street) or a pretty, little, sweettreat Mecca that is the aptly-named Sweet Little Things (Lower Borough Walls.) But don’t go overboard because dinner is just around the corner...

OUT FOR LUNCH Small plates, soups and sarnies make a popular lunch option and Bath will not dissapoint in its effort to satisfy every taste, step into a world of culinary delight at Pomegranate Meze, the Greek and Turkish restaurant nestled within the grand walls of a vaulted former chapel in Walcot Street, or try the super Indian kitchen of Bandook in Milsom Place, serving the tastiest selection of small plates and street food, or go for tapas-style French nibbles and snacks with the

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BISTROS, PUBS, DINERS, TRATTORIAS AND TAVERNAS – THE WORLD ON A PLATE Don’t overlook dining at one of Bath’s glorious gastropubs in your search for a superb suppertime experience. The Griffin Inn (Monmouth Street, close to the Ustinov Studio) is conveniently placed for a pre-theatre fast fix and The Marlborough Tavern (Marlborough Buildings) is just a short hop from the Royal ➲

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THE CIRCUS RESTAURANT

FLUTE SEAFOOD CAFÉ & BAR

HUDSON STEAK HOUSE

BATH PIZZA CO

RESTAURANT HYWEL JONES AT LUCKNAM PARK

THE SCALLOP SHELL

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Crescent (try their crispy duck slider with smoked duck breast, hoisin and kimchi). Tuck into a chicken and rosemary terrine at the Garrick’s Head ( to the side of the Theatre Royal Bath). If you want an all-things-to-all-people experience, from upper-crust incarnations of pub classics to full-on foodie fabulous menus, try The Raven in Queen Street, a great pub for a pie and a pint; or the tiny Coeur de Lion in Northumberland Place. Many of Bath’s best restaurants are perfect for pre-theatre suppers and early evening dining, there’s elegant Bath institution Woods in Alfred Street, Beckford Canteen in Bartlett Street, go French at Boho Marché (at The Francis Hotel), you’ll love the Green Park Brasserie and Bath Pizza Co (both in Green park Station) and smart Italian bistro La Terra in John Street are all great good places to start but make some time for the excellent bistros of Corkage on Chapel Row or Chez Dominique on Argyle Street... cancel all other plans... you might want to stay the whole evening. For a wallet-friendly, casual theme, Dough Pizza (Kingsmead Square and The Corridor) has dough choices including turmeric, hemp and seaweed. Then there’s the well-loved Italian institutions: the ever popular Martini (George Street) or try bargain-priced Thai specialists Yum Yum Thai (Kingsmead Square) – their in-the-wok stir-fries are divine. Staying with Eastern delights; is Bath’s best Chinese restaurant, Peking on Kingsmead Square or super charming Noya’s Kitchen on St. James Parade for a delicious Vietnamese dining experience, and then there’s the fine dining Indian experience of The Mint Room just 10 mins walk from the city centre.

BANDOOK

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Sitting comfortably between constant delights and best bib‘n’tucker destination diners you can’t go wrong at the chic and stylish Circus Restaurant in Brock Street (leave room for the excellent desserts), The Gaff is highly acclaimed and absolutely fabulous (Milsom Place) and the casual elegance of Clayton’s Kitchen is one of Bath’s finest. Hudson Steakhouse (Walcot Street) serve the best steak in town (great cocktails too), but do try the amazing Japanese inspired menu of Robun on George Street you’ll love it; and just along the road is the recently opened Flute Seafood Café and Bar serving fabulously fresh fish plates - wash them down with a glass or two of fizz – what could be better? And with Flute’s super-imaginative all-day menu you’ll be wanting to go there for brunch too. INTERNATIONALLY ACCLAIMED Many folk visit Bath to pay homage to the big-name chefs who have earned themselves a national reputation. Most reecently, superchef Chris Cleghorn has again retained his much deserved Michelin Star for his efforts at The Olive Tree at the Queensberry Hotel. Elsewhere, Michael Nizzero at Bath Priory, Robert Clayton at Clayton’s Kitchen, Martin Blake is head chef at Montagu’s Mews at the Royal Crescent Hotel and Hywel Jones at his eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant at Lucknam Park all are well-known as ultimate dining destinations with flamboyant, memorable tasting menu/wine flight experiences that showcase why they are at the top of their gourmet game. There’s no excuse for being hungry in Bath.  Need more inspiration? See our Eating Out Guide

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The best places in Bath to eat, drink and enjoy

Looking for great places to eat and drink in Bath? Here are our recommendations to the city’s finest foodie destinations to suit your mood, appetite and pocket.

BATH PIZZA CO Green Park Station, Bath BA1 1JB Tel: 01225 588886 Web: bathpizzaco.com It’s a “welcome to the neighborhood party and you’re invited” kind of vibe here. Bath’s must visit pizzeria, Bath Pizza Co is located in the funky historic Green Park Railway Station. Locally loved, Bath Pizza Co have featured in the National Pizza Awards for three years on the spin landing podium finishes in two of them. Swing by when best suits you for alfresco or indoor dining to soak up the busy atmosphere year round; perfect for lazy lunches and buzzing evenings with live music, cocktails, beers and of course… outstanding pizza.

GREEN PARK BRASSERIE Green Park Station, Bath BA1 1JB Tel: 01225 338565 Web: greenparkbrasserie.com One not to miss. Enjoy live music and fantastic food at one of Bath’s most popular independent restaurants, Green Park Brasserie. You’ll find locals and visitors alike taking in the atmosphere seven days a week in the former ticket hall of old Green Park Station. With a casual dining feel in a well curated room, Green Park Brasserie also has stunning terraces perfect for watching the world go by with happy hour cocktails in addition to their candle-lit restaurant space where you’ll enjoy quality local produce (think burgers, steaks, fish, pastas, salads and much more). Green Park Brasserie boasts over 30 years of success with live music every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. Featured in National Geographic Travel, The Sunday Times and The Guardian. Booking highly recommended.

THE CIRCUS RESTAURANT 34 Brock Street, Bath BA1 2LN Tel: 01225 466020 Web: thecircusrestaurant.co.uk A small, very busy, much-admired family-run business, The Circus Restaurant is one of Bath’s sparkling culinary gems, serving seasonal, locally sourced, freshly cooked English food. It has a carefully chosen wine list, and exceptionally welcoming staff. Set in a fine Georgian house – between The Circus and the Royal Crescent – you will find sensible and honest prices, and you’ll leave wanting to return some time soon. Voted number four in the UK in The Times’ 20 Secret Restaurants That Foodies Love. Open Monday to Saturday, 10am to midnight (closed Sunday). Booking is advised.

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eating out THE SCALLOP SHELL 22 Monmouth Place, Bath BA1 2AY Tel: 01225 420928 Web: thescallopshell.co.uk The Scallop Shell is a much-loved AA Rosette fish restaurant, serving lightly battered and grilled fish and chips and seasonal seafood. Flying the flag for a fresh, sustainable catch from UK waters, the menu changes daily depending on the coastal landings, with fish and shellfish displayed for customers to see in an ice-filled roll-top bath. Go for classic Scottish haddock fillet served with mushy peas and homemade tartare sauce or make it more of a foodie experience with sublime shellfish plates and fish to share, complemented by delicious wine or fizz by the bottle or glass. There’s also a year-round event and party space up on the first floor, The Little Scallop, which will see a new series of supper clubs launch this autumn.

CHEZ DOMINIQUE 15 Argyle Street, Bath BA2 4BQ Tel: 01225 463482 Web: chezdominique.co.uk Ever popular, Chez Dominique is a family-run restaurant serving local and seasonal French and European food. Included in the latest Good Food Guide, it has been granted a certificate of achievement from Hardens for its high-quality food. This cosy, casual bistro is ideally located on the beautiful Argyle Street just over Pulteney Bridge, and the private dining room – comfortably seating eight – overlooks Pulteney Weir. Chez Dominique offers a prix fixe menu at lunchtime, an à la carte dining in the evenings, and there’s also a very carefully chosen wine list. Bookings - lunch: Monday to Saturday 12-3pm, Sunday 123.30pm. Evenings: Sunday to Thursday 5-9pm, Friday and Saturday 5-9.30pm Enjoy great food and drink in a relaxing and friendly atmosphere.

Thanks a brunch! The lavish Georgian wake-up calls so beloved of Jane Austen times, still impact on life in Bath today. For a special breakfast or brunch treat, try the Ivy for a traditional full English, for great Eggs Benedict at WatchHouse or Bandook’s bottomless streetfood brunch with free-flowing prosecco at weekends... Oh yes!

CORKAGE 5 Chapel Row, Bath BA1 1HN Tel: 01225 423417 Web: corkagebath.com Corkage is an award-winning independent restaurant, bar and bottle shop in central Bath. Think creatively cooked, locally sourced seasonal plates and daily specials, with a broad range of exquisite wines from around the world, by the glass and bottle. You can sip crisp English fizz with a plate of pasta or day boat fish, or go for a multi-course experience, featuring the likes of oysters with Bloody Mary granita, pan fried pigeon breasts with potato terrine, braised radicchio and damson jus and cocoa cheesecake with raspberries and white chocolate. With a beautiful fairy-lit heated terrace and secret courtyard garden, it’s one of those special places to enjoy year-round.

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4 Princes Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2ED Tel: 01225 614424 Web: robun.co.uk Robun is a celebration of authentic Japanese food and drink, specialising in a modern take on Yakiniku – the art of grilling meat, seafood and vegetables over a traditional charcoal fire. The menu features a range of meticulously crafted dishes using only the freshest and finest ingredients. From delicate sashimi and perfectly grilled wagyu beef, to artisanal sushi rolls and exquisitely presented small plates, each dish is a work of art that showcases the skill and creativity of Robun’s talented chefs. To accompany your meal, there’s an extensive selection of premium sake, Japanese whiskey, and cocktails, handpicked to complement the cuisine. For something special, Robun’s Afternoon Tea swaps sandwiches for sushi and scones for bao buns. This beautifully presented Afternoon Tea features some of the standout dishes from Robun’s menu. Upstairs at Robun, a private dining room and bar is set to host celebrations, events and meetings. The space can accommodate 40 seated or 50 standing guests, with set menus available for parties of eight or more. Set in the heart of Bath, Robun offers an informal yet refined environment to share freshly prepared sharing plates and pairings.

MONTAGU’S MEWS AT THE ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL 16 Royal Crescent, Bath BA1 2LS Tel: 01225 823333 Web: royalcrescent.co.uk Fresh, local ingredients, inspired style and flawless service. Somewhere to relax and enjoy special moments that become lasting memories. Montagu’s Mews boasts a glamourous bar and a stylishly snug and relaxed restaurant; offering a menu that has a strong focus on locally sourced ingredients. Head chef Martin Blake and his kitchen team serve carefully curated seasonal dishes and accomplished tasting menus that elevate classic dishes to sublime new heights. The outdoor dining terrace, complete with cantilever parasols, seasonal heaters and views over the gardens, offers an idyllic setting for alfresco dining.

BOHO MARCHÉ 6 Queen Square, Bath, BA1 2HH Tel: 01225 473 351 Web: bohomarche.com/ Nestled in the heart of Bath, Boho Marché is popular with Bath locals and visitors alike. Offering a delicious twist on gourmet French dining, Boho Marché is a haven for foodies. Enjoy flavoursome dishes or classic favourites with a French twist. All combined with an inviting atmosphere, top-class service and a friendly welcome. Dine on seasonally changing menus including classic duck cassoulet, sharing côte de boef, crab rémoulade and decadent chocolate fondant. Watch Boho Marché’s mixologists create magic with their cocktails or relax with glass of wine on the terrace in warmer months.

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CLAYTON’S KITCHEN 15a George Street, Bath BA1 2EN Tel: 01225 585100 Web: claytonskitchen.com

THE GAFF 29 Milsom Place, Bath, BA1 1BZ Tel: 01225 984834 Web: thegaffrestaurant.co.uk/bath The Gaff is an independent restaurant based in Milsom Place, just off Broad Street. It specialises in carefully crafted small plates using the best quality ingredients. The restaurant offers a friendly and relaxed atmosphere whether it be at the Chef’s table enjoying a specially designed tasting menu, in the restaurant sharing dishes from the A la carte menu or at the bar enjoying inventive cocktails and snacks. The Gaff’s owners, Dan and Dan's Michelin Star background and experience shines through in their execution and attention to detail.

Clayton’s Kitchen is a firm favourite with locals and a must for visitors to Bath seeking a wonderful culinary experience. This charming, relaxed and stylish restaurant is led by chef-patron Robert Clayton, who has achieved two Michelin Stars while running retaurants in Bath. Inspired by Mediterranean and modern French cuisine, Robert creates uncomplicated but sublime dishes; prepared, cooked and perfectly presented using the freshest, highest quality ingredients. To reflect this, the beautifully compiled menu changes seasonally and is accompanied by an excellent wine list. Enjoy a fantastic lunch or dinner – you’ll want to return. Open Wednesday to Sunday. Weds–Thurs: 12–2.30pm and 6–9.30pm. Fri–Sat: 12–2.30pm and 5.30–10pm. Sun: 12–3pm and 5.30–9pm.

NOYA’S KITCHEN 7 St James’s Parade, Bath BA1 1UL Tel: 01225 552582 Web: noyaskitchen.co.uk

PEKING RESTAURANT 1–2 New Street, Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AF Tel: 01225 466377 Web: pekingrestaurantbath.co.uk Since opening in 1985, this family-run, independent restaurant is the number-one choice for local, authentic Chinese food. The master chef has created an extensive menu of fresh, healthy and innovative dishes selected from Cantonese, Szechuan and Peking cuisines, using local ingredients wherever possible. As well as the traditional flavours of sweet and sour, ginger and spring onion, Peking also offers muchloved lobster and crab dishes. The chef also prepares special dishes on request. The friendly, skilled staff at Peking strive to provide a genuine Chinese experience with a promise to put their hearts and souls into everything they do.

Noya’s Kitchen serves up delicious Vietnamese home cooking in a stylish and beautiful Grade II listed building in central Bath. Voted one of the UK’s Top 5 Independent Restaurants by Gousto in 2021, and judged Bath’s Best Restaurant in 2022, advance bookings at weekends are essential! Vietnamese food lovers can enjoy delicious dishes like Pho, Vietnamese curries and summer rolls on Tuesday–Saturday from 12–3pm, and Tues–Thurs and Sat evenings from 6–9pm. There’s always something new and delicious on the Specials board in the restaurant, or tune in to the social feed for Noya’s Kitchen to hear about them. The menu changes regularly depending on locally sourced ingredients, the weather and Noya’s inspiration. Book online or call in, you’ll be warmly welcomed.

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MINT ROOM Longmead Gospel Hall, Lower Bristol Road, Bath BA2 3EB Tel: 01225 446656 Web: mintroom.co.uk Described by The Michelin Guide as ‘a smart, spacious restaurant with a distinctly modern, glitzy style,’ Mint Room provides daringly different, high-end dishes, made with first rate British ingredients. Founded by Luthfur Rahman in 2011, the restaurant's menu places emphasis on distinctive, adventurous dishes inspired by traditional and modern Indian cuisine - from the rich tomato and lamb-based dishes of the north and east, to the coconut milk and mustard seed flavoured seafood of the south. Combined with an uplifting ambience, chic surroundings and first-rate service, the dining experience here is a memorable one.

RESTAURANT HYWEL JONES AT LUCKNAM PARK Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne SN14 8AZ Tel: 01225 742777 Web: lucknampark.co.uk Restaurant Hywel Jones offers an unforgettable dining experience. Enter through the mile-long driveway lined with beech and lime trees before you commence your evening of fine dining from the seven-course tasting menu or a la carte menu. Executive chef Hywel Jones has held a Michelin Star at the restaurant since 2006 and uses the finest ingredients to ensure the fullest flavours. Supporting and using fresh, local produce helps enhance the subtle flavours of the cooking. Restaurant Hywel Jones is open 6.30pm–9pm from Wednesday to Saturday.

DOUGH PIZZA 9 Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AB Tel: 01225 422320 14–16 The Corridor, Bath BA1 5AP Tel: 01225 443686 Web: doughpizzarestaurant.co.uk Proudly independent, family-run pizzerias, with venues in Kingsmead Square and The Corridor, Dough combines years of expertise and the best ingredients to bring you first-rate pizza, every time. With a focus on pizza for everyone, Dough offers 12 alternative health-giving bases, from kamut to hemp, grano arso, multigrain and more, alongside traditional sourdough. Gluten-free and allergy friendly pizzas are a particular speciality. You’ll find all the classics from margheritas to marinaras alongside pizza parcels, calzones and gourmet specials such as La Gina with ‘fior di latte’ mozzarella, caramelised onion, crispy speck, olive pâté, ricotta, pistachios and parmesan discs, based on turmeric dough. Warm, family-friendly service, dough-spinning entertainment and plenty of Italian charm ensures that any visit to Dough is an enjoyable one.

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eating out HUDSON STEAKHOUSE

14 London Street, Bath BA1 5BU Tel: 01225 332323 Web: hudsonsteakhouse.co.uk

Did you know...? Margherita pizza was named after a queen. In 1889, King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Italy visited Naples and asked for pizza as a way of escaping the fancy food she was used to eating. She found ‘pizza mozzarella’ delicious, a pie topped with soft white cheese, tomatoes, and basil. So the Margherita pizza came to be.

Hudson Steakhouse has been serving the people of Bath the best steaks for over a decade, offering its diners prime dry-aged steaks, starters with a fusion influence and classic dishes, all served in a sympathetic conversion of a once-notorious Victorian pub. Owner Richard Fenton took on this run-down building and has created a destination that has consistently won best-restaurant awards locally and nationally. Cocktails, premium beers and world wines are served under sparkling chandeliers and the upstairs grill room has an open kitchen which looks out over Hedgemead Park.

BANDOOK 3-7 Milsom Place, Bath BAI IBZ Tel: 01225 300600 Web: bandookkitchen.com

THE IVY BATH BRASSERIE 39 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1DS Tel: 01225 307100 Web: theivybathbrasserie.com The Ivy Brasserie’s large and elegant dining space is a great place to see and in which to be seen. Open all day, seven days a week, the restaurant serves all-encompassing, contemporary British menus for breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. There is a roof terrace which is the perfect spot for al fresco dining from the à la carte menu. Hidden away on the first floor is The Baldwin Room, a private dining room with seating up to 40 diners can be hired for parties and special functions.

Perched in Milsom Place, just off Milsom Street in central Bath, Bandook offers an oasis of superb Indian streetfood and hospitality. The story began when the team behind the award-winning fine dining Indian restaurant Mint Room had a vision to create a modern, casual dining, Indian street-food restaurant, one that would be fun and relaxed and yet create a 'wow' factor with its cooking. Bandook is the perfect off-the-beaten-track spot to dine and enjoy drinks in a stylish interior inspired by the colonial era. As well as the great food, keep an eye out for the special jazz nights, bottomless brunches at weekends and much more. This is a vibrant, fun, and really great place to enjoy excellent Indian food... Just fantastic!

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PLATE AT THE BIRD 18-19 Pulteney Road, Bath, BA2 4EZ Tel: 01225 580438 Web: thebirdbath.co.uk PLATE is a vibrant, community-focused restaurant that serves up delicious, ethically sourced dishes. Sustainability is at the heart of everything they do, which takes pride in supporting local farmers and fishermen. The menu features locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, ensuring a fresh and unforgettable dining experience. Guests can expect classic dishes with a mischievous twist, all crafted to challenge their taste buds. PLATE's commitment to sustainability and community makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking a sophisticated dining experience that is both delicious and planet-friendly.

THE BRASSERIE AT LUCKNAM PARK Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne SN14 8AZ Tel: 01225 742777 Web: lucknampark.co.uk Set among the 500-acre Lucknam Park estate, The Brasserie at Lucknam Park is a contemporary and stylish restaurant perfect for light lunches, al fresco dining and informal dinners. With a light and airy interior, this restaurant makes an ideal place to while away the hours in relaxed surroundings. Take a stroll through the elegant walled gardens, soak in the scenic views and choose from a full seasonal a la carte menu or a mid-week set lunch menu. Open daily from 12pm, last orders at 9pm.

CÔTE BRASSERIE 27 Milsom Place, Bath, BA1 1BZ Tel: 01225 335509 Web: cote.co.uk Whether you want to enjoy a tasty treat before a show or celebrate a special occasion in style, you can’t beat the ambiance and authentic French cuisine on offer at Côte Brasserie in Bath. With something to cater to all tastes, including vegetarian, gluten-free and children’s menus, Côte has something for all the family, whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner. Their lunch and early evening menu is available Monday – Friday until 7pm, and for three courses it is the perfect mid-week or pre-show option. This national chain is always a popular choice.

Pre-theatre deals Many of Bath’s best restaurants offer pre-theatre supper deals, and early bird set menu bargains abound between 5.30–7pm, including elegant Bath institution Woods, the brilliant Chez Dominique, Dough Pizza (which has dough choices including turmeric, hemp and seaweed) and not forgetting the tempting gastro menu at Green Park Brasserie, housed in the restored train station ticket hall.

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WOODS RESTAURANT Robun

World cuisine Bath may major on an image based on traditional British charms, but globally inspired street food and international cuisine is as fashionable here as it is across the UK and beyond, especially during the summer months when alfresco opportunities beckon. Choices include Noya’s Kitchen on St James’ Parade for a Vietnamese dining experience; smart little French bistro Chez Dominique on Argyle Street/Pulteney Bridge; Japaneseinspired Robun on George Street with a modern-day interpretation of ‘Yakiniku’; and La Terra in John Street where classic, traditional Italian cuisine meets contemporary.

9–13 Alfred Street, Bath BA1 2QX Tel: 01225 314812 Web: woodsrestaurant.com This is quite simply a Bath institution. With Georgian elegance and a warm informal atmosphere, Woods has created an enviable reputation as one of Bath best independent restaurants, a firm favourite with locals and a must for visitors to Bath. Established in 1979 by David and Claude Price, they work alongside the head chef of 28 years Stuart Ash and Gaston Price who runs the front of house. A truly family-run business offering personal service, dazzling food, modern British cooking with a classic French influence, and sourcing local ingredients to give you a mouthwatering sensation that will leave you coming back for more. The menu changes seasonally with specials of the day. The wines that accompany the delicious dishes are specially selected and tasted by David. Woods caters for all: the small terrace and bar are great to meet friends for a glass of wine, a dish of olives and a catch-up; the main dining room is ideal for intimate or informal dining; and the private room is perfect for corporate entertainment, family celebrations or weddings. Woods also has a Wine Shop and Deli (which runs from Weds to Sat) to eat in or take away, and you can enjoy a Sunday lunch on the first Sunday of every month.

THE GRIFFIN INN Monmouth Street, Bath BA1 2AP Tel: 01225 302829 Web: thegriffinbath.co.uk

PINTXO DE BATH 31 Barton Street, Bath BA1 1HG Tel: 01225 463861 Web: pintxobath.co.uk

Drink, eat and sleep in the heart of Bath. A Georgian Inn with uncommon quality, The Griffin has been welcoming locals and visitors to Bath for nearly 300 years. Tucked a stone’s throw away from the bustling city centre, the pub offers a lively, but laid back space to unwind – over a pint, over a meal or overnight. It’s got outstanding beer, wine and spirits behind the bar, with no end of cosy corners to enjoy them. The food is eclectic and contemporary, and the daily changing menu will be grounded in honest, locally sourced ingredients – it’s also a hot spot for great Sunday lunches. Discover The Griffin’s inviting rooms, each thoughtfully designed to provide a peaceful retreat for its guests.

Pintxo de Bath is an authentically Basque-style tapas and sherry bar in the heart of Bath’s theatre district, tucked away in Barton Street. Pintxo brings a taste of Spain to the city. With a laid-back feel, outside tables and a delightfully sunny sherry garden, it’s the perfect place to spend time with friends, sampling the best sherries, wines and food from the owners’ favourite parts of Spain. Working with a local importer Pintxo has a selection of the perfect wines and sherries to complement great tapas. And if you love sherry there’s a dedicated sherry menu. There’s no reservations, just turn up and the friendly staff will do their best to seat you.

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THE GAINSBOROUGH BRASSERIE The Gainsborough Bath Spa, Beau Street, Bath, BA1 1QY Tel: 01225 358888 Web: thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk Located in right in the centre of Bath at the 5-star luxury Gainsborough Hotel the modern Brasserie offers a relaxed and stylish dining environment where you can enjoy innovative, contemporary British cuisine utilising the finest locally-sourced ingredients from West Country Farmers and local artisans. A real treat and experince to be cherished. As well as dining at the Brasserie, you can take traditional afternoon tea daily in the Canvas Room and beautifully crafted cocktails and drinks are served nightly in the Gainsborough Bar.

THE PIG NEAR BATH Hunstrete House, Hunstrete, Pensford, Bath BS39 4NS Tel: 01761 490490 Web: thepighotel.com THE PIG-near Bath is a buzzing restaurant with rooms – with the Kitchen Garden at its heart – nestled between Bath and Bristol on the edge of the village of Hunstrete. With a serious commitment to the community and surrounding area, THE PIG-near Bath celebrates all things Somerset. The food is driven by home grown clarity of flavour, true to the seasons and influenced by location. The Garden and Kitchen teams work hand-in-hand to create the restaurant’s 25 mile menu, which is supported by passionate local farmers and small producers, who supply anything that the team cannot grow or produce themselves. This commitment not only supports their local suppliers, but means they can be 100% honest on the provenance of their ingredients.

BAILBROOK HOUSE HOTEL Eveleigh Avenue, London Road West, Bath, BA1 7JD Tel: 01225 855101 Web: handpickedhotels.co.uk Relaxed elegance is firmly on the menu at Bailbrook House in Bath, which offers a variety of spaces in which to enjoy modern British seasonal food prepared with passion and served with charm. Drink in the historic period charm of Cloisters restaurant, which takes full advantage of striking architectural features and beautiful views out onto the gardens. An altogether more contemporary space is The Conservatory, a modern setting with plenty of natural light and a summer terrace for peaceful alfresco dining. Characterful royal lounges provide an idyllic spot in which to enjoy afternoon tea, or its private dining rooms are ideal for celebrations and special events. Make magical memories and experience laid-back luxury.

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eating out THE MARLBOROUGH TAVERN 35 Marlborough Buildings, Bath BA1 2LY Tel: 01225 423731 Web: marlborough-tavern.com Located just a stone’s throw from the Royal Crescent, The Marlborough Tavern combines the atmosphere of a local pub with the food quality of a top restaurant, making it a firm favourite in Bath. The menu uses local produce to create greattasting, simple dishes where the quality of the produce speaks for itself. The Marlborough has held two AA rosettes for food quality since 2009, and features in the Michelin Guide. While it holds accolades for its food, it’s still very much a pub and offers local ales and craft beers. Outside, it boasts a beautiful pub garden – a walled courtyard space that’s just perfect for alfresco lunching and drinking with good friends.

THE OLIVE TREE RESTAURANT The Queensberry Hotel, 4–7 Russel Street, Bath BA1 2QF Tel: 01225 447928 Web: olivetreebath.co.uk The Olive Tree is currently Bath’s only Michelin star restaurant, an accolade first awarded in October 2018. Sitting below The Queensberry Hotel, The Olive Tree, in addition to being the city’s most celebrated restaurant, is one of its longest established, offering relaxed fine dining in a contemporary British setting. Head chef Chris Cleghorn honed his skills and developed his own unique style under world-renowned Michelin star chefs. For more than five years he has, with his team, been creating amazing meals using seasonal ingredients from high-quality local producers. The Olive Tree’s wine list is also award-winning; it eclectically balances traditional and new, and the restaurant’s warm opulence perfectly complements the quality and style of food.

Small Plates The Gaff in Milsom Place, who specialise in small, beautiful plates of food, advise you to order 3–4 small dishes per person, including desserts. Here we see an initial selection of plates from the first part of the menu – plumply shining Gordal Olives, Cheese and Leek Fritters served with with brioche buns and marmite butter.

COMPTOIR+CUISINE 5 George Street, Bath BA1 2EJ Tel: 01225 684733 Web: comptoirpluscuisine.com Comptoir+Cuisine serves coffee, juice, croissants and pastries, making it the perfect spot for breakfast, a mid-morning snack, or as a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle – to sit and read, or to catch up with friends or colleagues. For lunch and dinner, enjoy nibbles, cheese and charcuterie boards, including the popular baked camembert cheeses, as well as salads and a delicious range of tapas-style French sharing plates featuring meat, fish, cheese and extensive vegetarian options. Comptoir+Cuisine also offers a selection of Grower Champagnes by the glass, as well as beer and wine. For those who fancy a sweet treat, there is a tasty selection of macaroons and gateaux on offer too. These taste even better when enjoyed with a glass of crisp Grower Champagne for afternoon tea. POSTCARD from BATH / 115

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FLUTE SEAFOOD CAFÉ & BAR 9 Edgar Buildings, George Street, Bath BA1 2EE Tel: 01225 400193 Web: flute-bath.com

LA TERRA RESTAURANT

Flute Seafood Café and Bar is the new all-day cosy hangout spot tucked snugly into the centre of Bath’s popular George Street. Flute is all about keeping things fresh, fun, and delicious, and serves fabulous breakfasts, exciting cocktails, a large selection of sparkling wines, and the best seafood the city has to offer. Whether you’re looking for an early breakfast, delightful sharing plates and cocktails for a day out with friends, or a seafood meal to remember, Flute has something for everyone. Soak up the Flute experience where awesome food, good vibes, and unforgettable moments come together in perfect sync.

2 John Street, Bath BA1 2JL Tel: 01225 482070 Web: laterra.co.uk La Terra is an independent restaurant in the heart of Bath, run by business partners Vito and Alessandro serving up Italian cooking with a modern approach. Using local and fresh produce, the menu reflects the seasons and highlights many different aspects of Italian dining and is complemented by an extensive wine list covering all regions of Italy as well as serving some classic French and Spanish wines. Service is attentive and friendly, providing a comfortable, happy and relaxed atmosphere. Vito Scaduto heads the front of house and has over 30 years experience managing some of the most renowned restaurants and hotels in the UK, receiving accolades at The Bath Priory, the Three Gables in Bradford on Avon, the Royal Crescent and many more. Running the kitchen is Alessandro Scola, from Lake Como in northern Italy. Alessandro spent his childhood surrounded by people cooking real Italian food, including making fresh pasta with his grandma, so he was always destined to be a top a chef. The food at La Terra is absolurtley delicious! Be a customer!

NO.15 BY GUESTHOUSE, BATH 15 Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4BS Tel: 01225 807015 Web: guesthousehotels.co.uk If you‘re feeling peckish, then head to the easy-going elegance of No.15 by GuestHouse, Bath where you’ll find the seasonal menu of small plates featuring beautifully refined and contemporary British fare – such as, Old Spot Bath Chaps, wholesome Stokes Marsh Farm dry-aged steak sandwiches and for an avant-garde sweet option, do try the white-pannacotta with a rhubarb and ginger sable. Available from noon until dusk falls (between 12:30pm until 9pm). And for those wanting a relaxing refresher, the highly decorative bar with sparkling treasures on display and leather-lined walls serves tremendous cocktails, perfect tipples and snacks. Escape to No 15 for an unforgettable taste of British deliciousness.

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eating out POMEGRANATE MEZE 88 Walcot Street, Bath, BA1 5BD Tel: 01225 462992 Web: pomegranatebath.co.uk Step into a world of culinary delight at Pomegranate, the Greek and Turkish restaurant nestled within the grand walls of a vaulted former chapel in Walcot Street. Immerse yourself in the ambiance of this restaurant and its Arts and Crafts-influenced architecture, where history meets the Mediterranean in a perfect harmony of flavours. From savoury kebabs, time-honoured moussaka and lamb kofta to chickpea fritters, baba ghanoush and tzatziki, the menu pays homage to Greek and Turkish traditions, offering a diverse palette of tastes. The food at Pomegranate is authentic, well-curated and served with bundles of flavour, and the prices are highly accessible (two courses £15.95 and three £18.95). Whether you're seeking a romantic dinner or an unforgettable meal with friends and family, Pomegranate promises a warm and friendly dining experience.

THE ELDER AT THE INDIGO HOTEL The Indigo Hotel, 2–8 South Parade, Bath BA2 4AB Tel: 01225 530616 Web: theelder.co.uk The Elder is a truly elegant restaurant and bar situated in the historic centre of Bath and is the place to enjoy authentic, honest and timeless cooking that uses the British countryside and seas as its larder. Created by owner Mike Robinson, and executive chef Gavin Edney their focus is on sustainability, seasonality and British wild produce. The Elder restaurant is open for lunch and dinner with an à la carte menu enhanced by a beautifully curated wine list. Oysters and Champagne can be enjoyed on the terrace on warm weekend afternoons in the summer and the year-round cocktail list takes inspiration from the classics whilst using the seasons and local ingredients to create utter magic.

LE CHEF PRIVÉ Email: info@lechefprive.co.uk Web: lechefprive.co.uk Since retiring from the well-loved restaurant Casanis, chef Laurent Couvreur offers personal services for special occasions. From cheffing on board Northabout in the Arctic for adventurer David Hempleman-Adams to recreating favourite restaurant dishes in local homes, Laurent uses wonderful local produce to recreate his southern French style of cooking with a twist. Le Chef Privé takes all the stress out of your dinner parties, presenting awardwinning restaurant-quality food in the comfort of your own home. Chef Laurent proudly reads us a note from one of his customers: “Thank you for a truly wonderful evening, I cannot imagine a better way to have celebrated my birthday. The food was (unsurprisingly) marvellous and the entire evening flowed beautifully, from canapés to dessert. All our guests have expressed their delight at the dinner.” He adds, “We look forward to bringing incredible flavours and a ray of French sunshine to our diners’ homes.”

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CONVERSATIONS

THE HUMBLE CHEF Talented yet modest multi-Michelin star chef, Rob Clayton takes a walk in the Bath countryside with Melissa Blease. Here, he discusses his expansive culinary career and how he came to own Clayton’s Kitchen

ob Clayton is walking Myrtle – his beautiful Weimaraner – on Primrose Hill, a magical woodland on the northern slopes of Bath. “I’m very happy with where I am right now,” says Rob. “I’m very chilled.” And who wouldn't be in surroundings this tranquil? But Rob isn’t referring to our current location. He’s actually talking about his route to becoming the chef/restaurant proprietor – a route that's as far removed from our peaceful woodland walk as possible. Rob’s modern George Street bistro, Clayton’s Kitchen, has been a cornerstone of Bath’s independent restaurant scene since 2012 – and it's easy to see why. Service is friendly and informative, the wine list intelligently eclectic, and the whole vibe thrums along to a subtly buoyant beat: dress up or down, party on or chill out at an al fresco table – whatever occasion may have brought you here, you’ve definitely come to the right place. As for the food... fresh, seasonal, uncomplicated, affordable and uplifting dictates the order of the day, with local produce bolstering the foundations of every dish. As a result, Clayton’s Kitchen is wholly deserving of its status – but the hardworking patron behind the scenes has travelled far to get here. Growing up in Grimsby, Rob often took on culinary duties at home while his parents worked, which first ignited his passion for cooking. “At school I was keen to study physics, but a friendly teacher suggested that it might not be for me.” It was the husband of this helpful teacher who taught home economics, which Rob decided to choose as his optional subject at the local technical college, and even worked extra evening classes with him. “I worked with a really cool mix of people, from housewives to industry people, and retired folk – I loved it!” he says. “When I finished college, I wanted to work for my lecturer at a restaurant he'd opened in Grimsby, but business was hardly booming. He spotted a vacancy at Antony Worrall Thompson’s Knightsbridge restaurant Ménage a Trois – being young with nothing to lose, I went for it and got the job. It was a baptism of fire, but an amazing experience. After, I went to Nico on Great Portland Street and Chez Nico. It was during those early years in London that I learnt all about Michelin-starred food.” Ah, Michelin. There comes a time, when chatting to most chefs, that those celebrated stars enter the conversation. Few chefs, however, can talk on the subject with as much insight as Rob. “I loved the cleanness, the perfection of Michelin-starred food,” he

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says. “That scene has changed over the years, but back then everything was so perfect and disciplined.” Rob left London to work as a sous chef at Hunstrete House – now The Pig Hotel in Hunstrete near Bath. And in 1995, aged 25, Rob became one of the youngest chefs to receive a Michelin star. In 1997, Rob was invited to head up the kitchen at the illustrious Bath Priory Hotel and Spa, where he achieved another Michelin star that he maintained for his seven-year residency. “I guess I just kept going for it – I simply liked to cook and wasn't too precious about it,” says Rob. “I don't like it when chefs get all stressy about stars, because at the end of the day it’s just food, and food should be an enjoyable, happy thing. I was in a lovely pub recently and I overhead somebody ordering a steak well done, and the kitchen said no. I felt like saying, oh just cook whatever the customer wants – they're the one who’s going to eat it, not the chef.” After his stint at the Priory, Rob became part-owner of an upmarket gastropub/hotel; and participated in the refurbishment of the kitchens at the exclusive Kinross House Estate and Spa in Scotland, overlooking Loch Leven. “That was another amazing experience, in absolutely stunning surroundings,” says Rob. “But I wanted to be based in Bath again.” The Porter pub – now Clayton’s Kitchen – used to be an oldschool veggie pub, but now, seven years later, the restaurant is a far cry from the outdated venue it once was. Today, Rob’s feet are firmly on the ground in the city he loves, where he's happily settled with his wife, their two daughters aged 19 and 22... and, of course, Myrtle. “Bath is an amazing city – it’s special in so many ways, and I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else,” he says. “My restaurant thrives on the goodwill of locals, regulars and visitors and I love that mix. Yes, there’s a lot of competition around, but that's healthy and keeps me on my toes; that, and the team I have, without whom Clayton’s Kitchen would be nothing. They’re what makes my restaurant, not just me.” But Rob, I have to ask: do you still have stars in your eyes? “No, no, no, no, no!” he laughs. “Even if I was offered one, I think I’d just say no thank you. I’m just happy with where I’m at, and what I’m doing. As long as everyone else is happy, my day is made.”  Clayton’s Kitchen, 15a George Street, Bath BA1 2EN Tel: 01225 724386; web: www.claytonskitchen.com Instagram: claytons_kitchen

My restaurant thrives on the ❝ goodwill of locals, regulars and visitors and I love that mix...

❝

IMAGE: Robert Clayton by TBM

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CITY HISTORY

SATURNALIA & THE ROMANS What have the Romans ever done for us? Georgette McCready takes a look at the ancient Roman festival of Saturnalia and finds links with modern-day Christmas festivities

n Monty Python’s Life of Brian film there’s a scene where John Cleese, Eric Idle and Michael Palin are complaining about their Roman invaders and ask each other “apart from sanitation, the medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, a fresh water system and public health, what have the Romans ever done for us?” They might also have added ‘the Christmas spirit’ to that list because there are so many links to the way the ancient Romans celebrated the festival Saturnalia to how we enjoy the Christmas period today. Boy, did those Romans know how to party! Their Saturnalia was a week-long period of over-indulgence where workplaces such as courts shut, people gave each other presents and there was a good deal of debauched behaviour as a result of excess alcohol. There was even dancing in the streets. And as we prepare for our own Christmases, this does sound familiar. As the Roman Empire settled down after years of fighting tribes in Britain, Bath was a settlement where the Romans enjoyed peaceful times and were able to celebrate their own culture. In around 70AD the Romans had built a holy temple on the site of the natural hot water springs here in the south west of Britain before building the impressive complex of baths that we’re lucky enough to see today. In a tactful gesture to their British neighbours, who had originally built their shrine by the spring and dedicated it to Sulis their goddess of healing, the Romans named their baths The Waters of Sulis, or Aquae Sulis. Religion was an important aspect of Roman culture but they cunningly made sure that having a good time was built into the worship of their gods. The Roman calendar is full of festivals and holidays – at least one for every month of the year – and it’s here that we find the early roots of our modern-day Christmas celebrations. Lots of cultures like to mark the darkest days of winter by bringing families and friends together for feasts, to light fires and banish the cold and the Romans were no exception. Saturnalia was a hugely popular mid-winter festival which took place over a week between 17 and 23 December. During this holiday period it was traditional for wealthy people to give their slaves and servants presents and time off. They quite often swapped clothes with their servants and waited on them, reversing roles even for a brief time. It was customary to bring berries and greenery into the house as a tribute to Saturn, the god of agriculture, and gifts often took the form of small statuettes or ornaments, which were hung in the greenery – decking the halls with boughs of holly.

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And then there were the banquets... In her book Taste: The Story of Britain Through Its Cooking, Kate Coluhon explains how Roman food and dishes would have been such a revelation to the indigenous British people. This would have been the equivalent of the 1960s in the UK when most people had a bland diet which did not include ginger, garlic or chilli and they were suddenly introduced to the highly flavoured cuisine of curries and Chinese dishes. While the British in pre-Christian times cooked with butter, milk and ale, the Romans used olive oil and wine. They brought with them their secret recipes for a pungent, dark, salty fish sauce which they used to flavour their dishes. It was said that a soldier who had been stuck on distant outposts guarding the Roman Empire used to stand in the British rain or mists dreaming of the tasty fish relish of home. If you were invited to a Saturnalian feast in Bath what might you expect? The diners would eat lounging on couches, the most important guests nearest to the host. And dishes were announced before being brought to the table, served in a series of courses as we do now. The food would have been an expression of the host’s wealth and they prided themselves on beautiful glassware and decorative bowls. We might recognise a sort of early pasta and we would almost certainly enjoy the fresh breads made from oats, rye, wheat or barley, although we might find a sausage stuffed with a mixture of meat and fish rather odd. The Romans brought many innovations to Bath. They roasted meat in ovens and liked to keep their food hot as it was brought to table. In the kitchens they introduced the three-legged metal cauldron, ladles and spatulas. They enjoyed watercress, lettuce, bacon and beans and their range of herbs and spices, including fennel, dill and aniseed must have been a shot of flavour for their British guests. The Romans were farmers as well as warriors. They fenced in wild deer for venison meat and kept wild ducks which they domesticated for food. There was also the habit of keeping dormice in pottery vessels where they were fattened up on chestnuts and acorns, before being roasted for the feast. One of history’s earliest recipe books was written by a Roman gourmet Apicus. One recipe begins: ‘take and pluck a flamingo’ and ends ‘the same recipe can be used for parrot.’ It’s unlikely that cooks in Bath could get their hands on either of these birds, but we do know that grapes were grown for wine in terraces on the sunny slopes of Walcot, where the name Vineyards on the Paragon

IMAGE: Saturnalia by Antoine Callet, source: Wikicommons, public domain.

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remains as a reminder of that time. Our Saturnalian celebrants would finish their convivium (another name for a dinner party) with puddings sweetened with honey. Some guests would have brought napkins to wipe their greasy fingers but it was perfectly acceptable for guests to run their fingers through the serving boys’ hair to clean them for the next course. Throughout the meal wine would have been served and in wealthier households there would have been entertainment between courses in the form of short theatrical scenes, juggling, singing or poetry. And at the end of the feast everyone would enjoy the chance to gossip over more wine, or to play backgammon, dice or draughts. The Romans were happy with nudity, they were at ease naked

in the baths, where business and pleasure were conducted with flesh on show. They were also relaxed about sex and the festivities of Saturnalia saw some debauched behaviour take place, much as it can today when Christmas parties get out of hand and the mistletoe and red wine loosen inhibitions. Who knows what stories the walls of the Roman baths would tell if they could talk. Well every party has to end and by 312AD the Christian Roman Emperor Constantine started to clamp down on Saturnalia as its orgies and loose behaviour didn’t sit comfortably with Christian values. Within generations the British Christian Christmas had become all about prayer and solemnity, but lay the spark of those good times, buried in our collective subconscious and now we like to think the Romans of ancient Bath would have approved of our 21st-century fun-filled holiday.  POSTCARD from BATH / 121

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POSTCARDS

THEATRE ROYAL BATH The Theatre Royal Bath is one of the oldest working theatres in Britain. Known locally as TRB, it first opened its doors over a century ago. Melissa Blease gives the theatre’s dramatic backstory

t would be easy to imagine that it’s a small theatre, but beyond the glittering facade there’s a lot of drama. A 900capacity auditorium featuring four plush boxes, a trompe-l’œil ceiling and a glittering chandelier are at the heart of the action. The theatre’s complex is also home to a dedicated young people’s theatre, an innovative studio theatre, a suite of elegant function rooms, several bars, a stand-alone pub... and a resident ghost. But as is generally the case with all the best theatrical productions, there’s an interesting back story. In 1747, Bristol-based actor John Hippisley published proposals for the building of a new theatre in Bath that would rival the theatres in the capital. He opened the Orchard Street Theatre – the original Theatre Royal – in October 1750 with a performance of Shakespeare’s Henry IV, Part II. The theatre was so successful that in 1768 a special act of Parliament granted Hippisley’s initiative the illustrious Royal Patent. As popular as the theatre was, its location didn’t do it any favours. As Bath’s population grew, the city’s cultural cognoscenti began to migrate north-west, and the area around Orchard Street became unfashionable. So, in 1804, construction of the New Theatre Royal on Beaufort Street was announced, and in 1805 the Orchard Street Theatre closed its doors. Today, the building is a Masonic Hall. Take a tour there, and you can stand on the stage where Sarah Siddons – 18th-century The main auditorium

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‘tragedienne’ – received the adulation of her audiences and take a trip ‘backstage’ to see the original scenery loft. Thanks to an illustrious roll-call of project shareholders including George III’s eldest son, George, HRH the Prince of Wales, the cornerstone for the new theatre was laid in December 1804 and opened to the public on 12 October the following year with a production of Shakespeare’s Richard III. While not immediately successful, the New Theatre Royal’s popularity grew as it hosted visits from leading actors including Edmund Kean, Dorothea Jordan, William Macready and Joseph Grimaldi in entertainment from serious dramas to pantomime by way of operas, thrillers and comedies. Around 1820, the rise in popularity of at-home suppers, travelling circuses and pleasure gardens were increasingly dominating the social calendars, while social and political reform was threatening economic stability. Meanwhile, poor ticket sales were compounded by rising fees for actors. As the 19th century progressed, the theatre fell into a period of decline – and then, on 18 April 1862 the theatre was destroyed by a fire. However a lavish, ornate phoenix was set to rise. On 7 May, a limited company to rebuild the New Theatre Royal was formed. Bath-based architect C. J. Phipps redesigned it, and he added an Italianate, three-bay arcaded entrance on Sawclose. The fully refurbished theatre opened on 3 March 1863, with Charles Kean and Ellen Terry headlining in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. But despite performances by theatre superstars including Sybil Thorndike, John Gielgud, Sarah Bernhardt, Irene Vanbrugh and ballerina Anna Pavlova, audiences declined and the theatre still struggled to make a profit; for several decades, the New Theatre Royal Bath was little more than a dusty, dilapidated provincial theatre. In March 1979 philanthropic entrepreneur Jeremy Fry purchased the theatre on behalf of a trust. In 1980, an appeal was launched to renovate the whole site, including the rebuilding and modernisation of backstage systems to allow major touring companies to be booked. Financial support came from supporters including the Arts Council England, the Bath Preservation Trust, the city council and many individuals, and later loans were negotiated. On 30 November 1982 the theatre reopened again, with another performance of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream featuring a cast from the National Theatre... and HRH Princess Margaret in the audience. Fry had saved the theatre from virtual collapse.

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In 1997, a brand new 150-seat studio theatre was built at the rear of the Theatre Royal on Monmouth Street, named in honour of the actor Peter Ustinov, who led the fundraising programme. In 2005, the results of a major refurbishment of the former cinema and church hall that once inhabited the corner space between the theatre’s main house and the Ustinov on St Johns Place was unveiled and the egg theatre was hatched: a unique, innovative venue for children’s, young people’s and family theatre with a 120-seat auditorium, family-friendly café, workshops and rooftop rehearsal studios. Today, the egg is a nationally recognised hub for outreach work with young people, schools and colleges. In 2009, yet another major refurbishment appeal was launched by the TRB’s Royal Patron Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall. The foyer was expanded, the décor was given a facelift and the theatre’s bars were refurbished to include the Jeremy Fry Bar. The reopening ceremony was performed on-stage by actors Penelope Keith and Peter Bowles, who were starring in the TRB’s own production of Richard Brinsley Sheridan’s The Rivals, which is set in and around 18th-century Bath, and served as a rather touching tribute to the origins of the theatre. This splendid theatre, which has repeatedly fought every adversity, has staunchly refused to allow the curtain to fall on it for good. Today it takes centre-stage as the cornerstone of Bath’s contemporary cultural and social scene. 

 Theatre Royal Bath, Sawclose, Bath BA1 1ET

 For performances, information and to book tickets, contact the Box office: Tel: 01225 448844  For the egg theatre: Tel: 01225 823409  Web: theatreroyal.org.uk

UPCOMING PRODUCTIONS Twelve Angry Men 27 November – 2 December Twelve Angry Men – hailed ‘the classiest, most intelligent drama playing on the West End’ – brings the 1957 Academy Award nominated film to the stage. Stars including Patrick Duffy, Gray O’Brien, Michael Greco and Tristan Gemmill. Sleeping Beauty 7 December – 7 January The fabulous family pantomime promises a laugh-a-minute extravaganza with stunning sets, top musical hits, fantastic costumes and exciting special effects. Bath panto favourite Jon Monie returns as Silly Billy.

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THEATRE

ALAS POOR ROMEO So hilarious were his performances, Bath theatregoers queued to see him. Historian Catherine Pitt tells the story of a man considered to be the worst actor in history

ath, 1808 – genteel, sedate, elegant. The social season began unhindered, the glorious buzz of the Beau Nash years a faded memory. Into this calm stepped an exotic character, the self-styled Amateur of Fashion, a man who was soon to be considered “the worst actor in English theatrical history”. Allow me to introduce to you – Robert ‘Romeo’ Coates. Born in 1772 in Antigua, the only surviving child of plantation owners, Coates was educated in England but returned to the West Indies after his parents refused to allow him to pursue a military career. When he wasn’t travelling, Coates would dabble in amateur

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dramatics. After his father’s death in 1807, Robert rapidly headed for England, first to London and then to Bath. When Coates appeared on the peaceful city streets in 1808, few had seen his like before. Even in the period of Regency dandyism his flamboyant appearance raised more than a few eyebrows. He wore vast furs in all weathers. In the evenings he would appear in the Pump Room and Assembly Rooms in a sky-blue coat, yellow breeches, a multi-coloured cravat and feathered hat. He embellished every element of his attire, from shirt buttons to shoe buckles and walking cane, with hundreds of diamonds, gaining him the moniker of ‘Diamond’ Coates. To add to this, Coates chose to travel in a carriage of his own design: two-wheeled chariot (known as a curricle) pulled along by two white horses. Atop the curricle was Coates’ mascot and motto – a crowing fighting cockerel, wings outstretched, and underneath the boast: “Whilst I live I’ll Crow”. Despite his noticeable presence in Bath, few knew who he was or where he was from; all they knew was that he must be a man of wealth to indulge in such eccentricities. There are conflicting views as to where exactly he lodged in Bath, but what is certain is that he could be found, daily, enjoying breakfast and lunch at York House on George Street, a large coaching inn, still a hotel today. Here, according to Pryse Gordon, a man who takes the claim for introducing Coates to the Bath stage, he approached Coates when overhearing him rehearsing passages from Shakespeare. Correcting Coates on a line, he was met with the words, “Aye, that is the reading I know... but I think I have improved upon it.” Gordon discovered Coates’ passion for Shakespeare and for amateur dramatics. Currying favour with this wealthy eccentric, Gordon offered to introduce Coates to the manager of the Theatre Royal, William Wyatt Dimond. Coates declared that he was “ready and willing to play Romeo to a Bath audience.” Dimond was unwilling to risk the theatre’s reputation on an unknown, but after reassurance from Gordon that seats would be filled and probably some monetary reassurance from Coates, Dimond agreed. Playbills were plastered around the city announcing that on 8 February 1809 a new production of Romeo and Juliet was opening and that the male lead was to be played by “an amateur actor from the fashionable world”. As word spread of Coates’ acting debut, seats began to fill up fast. On the evening of the production the Theatre Royal was packed with curious Bathonians, with many more turned away at the door. Inside the anticipation was palpable.

The Gay Lothario on stage and opposite the Old Theatre Royal in its heyday

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On Coates’ entrance the audience were at first dumbfounded at the vision stood before them, described by an observer as “one of the most grotesque spectacles ever witnessed upon the stage”. Romeo wore “a spangled coat of sky-blue silk, crimson pantaloons,” diamond additions; plus a huge baroque wig. Balanced on top was a white trimmed hat with plumes of ostrich feathers. Coates took a nervous bobbing bow, grinning away, and the audience burst into peals of laughter and roars of applause. Unfazed Coates proceeded, though it was like no version of Shakespeare’s play ever seen before or since. Coates had a tendency to forget his lines, add in his own where he thought they needed improving, and would alternately whisper sections to just one box in the theatre. During the famous balcony scene, Coates turned away from Juliet, pulled out his snuff box and took a pinch. As the public roared their approval he offered the snuff box to a number of ladies and gentlemen in the audience. Half way through the play, during the rendition of an impassioned speech, the seams at the seat of his tight red breeches, bursting open to reveal a “quantity of white linen sufficient to make a Bourbon flag!” On appearing at the tomb of Juliet, Coates took out a silk handkerchief, laid it on the boards, put his hat down to act as a pillow and then went through a most lengthy and, apparently from his grimaces and groans, agonising ‘death’ before carefully laying himself out on stage. Convulsed with laughter, members of the audience shouted out “Die Again, Romeo” and Coates obliged, not once but twice more. He was about to attempt a third when Juliet appeared from the wings and stopped him. Dimond hastily dropped the curtain

bringing the play, finally, to an end. Meanwhile on stage Coates ran around, hanging off boxes, shouting “Haven’t I done well?” The jeers and heckles that Coates received made little impact on him. He was buoyed by what he considered his success in Bath, so much so that he decided to tour his production of Romeo and Juliet around the country, including playing the Haymarket Theatre in London. Although a subject of mockery and satirisation, Coates still considered himself just an amateur actor and did not take a wage. His reputation preceded him so theatres were packed. Any profits Coates would request went to charity. In December 1816 Coates headed to Bath, and the theatre where it had all began, for the final act. Over three days he performed another of his favourite plays, The West Indian, but for the final public performance Coates chose Romeo and Juliet. It was said by audience members that he was much improved. As before, Coates was jeered, but this time he paused and declared that people could request their money back if they were not happy, but that his intention was that the money from this play were to go to the local Pierrepont Street Charity. Shamed into silence, a more reverent crowd allowed Coates to continue. After 1816 he would do the occasional private charitable performance, but it was the last the public would see of ‘Romeo’ Coates. Dogged by debt collectors during the financial troubles of the 1830s, Coates took refuge in Boulogne for a few years where he was often spotted in his furs. His death, in February 1848, was as bizarre as his life had been – he was crushed between two carriages in London’s Covent Garden after a night at the Opera. Alas, Poor Romeo!  POSTCARD from BATH / 125

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AFTER DARK

LET BATH ENTERTAIN YOU Bath transforms into an enchanting, grown-up playground when the sun goes down. Our very own bonne vivante, Melissa Blease puts her party frock on and ventures out after dark

ath is home to an abundance of restaurants, pubs and bars that are all too easy to lose yourself in until it’s time for bed. But as alluring as eating, drinking and being merry may be, there’s yet far more to the city’s nightlife scene to explore.

STARTER’S ORDERS • Vino Vino

For Bathonians who like to keep an eye on who’s out-and-about in town, with whom, and why, wine and cocktail bar Vino Vino acts as a life-as-it-happens Bath gossip column HQ. Heated

parasols on the spacious terrace turn winter chills into a warm glow, while indoor tables adjacent to the big picture windows guarantee that you won’t miss a trick even when terrace tables are taken. Fine wine and cocktails are a speciality here and the fizz flows in abundance, while chic charcuterie and stylish sharing platters presented in picture-perfect portions fortify you up for the rest of the evening’s entertainment ahead. • Find it on: Saw Close. Open until: midnight Monday– Thursday; 1am Friday–Saturday; 11pm Sunday • Green Park Brasserie There’s something unselfconsciously, comfortably cool about the whole affair; it’s a ‘welcome to the neighbourhood’ party and everybody’s invited. Under the glass canopy of the old Green Park Station, enjoy live music 4 nights a week, special offers on cocktails, and great food, this is the perfect place to start your evening - and you’ll probably want to stay longer. • greenparkbrasserie.com

HOT TICKETS • Komedia, Westgate Street Proud hosts/producers of 400+ events every year, Komedia has put Bath on the live entertainment map. Comedy, music, cabaret and club nights all vie for attention on the programme, while the legendary Krater Comedy Night puts three of the best national circuit comedians centre stage every Saturday night before neatly segueing into the equally legendary Big Disco or Motorcity club night events, which pump up the dancefloor volume until the wee small hours. • komedia.co.uk/bath/whats-on • Chapel Arts Centre, Lower Borough Walls Bath’s leading alternative ’not-for-profit’ grass roots arts venue plays host to a varied array of performance and visual arts events, including live music, theatre, dance, film and cabaret. The majority of events are seated cabaret (small round tables). The venue has excellent natural acoustics, a sprung dance floor and a well-stocked bar within the Auditorium. • chapelarts.org

SHOWTIME AT KOMEDIA

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• The Forum, St James Parade Purpose-built as an art deco cinema in 1934, The Forum is Bath’s biggest venue and the third largest seated auditorium in the south west of England. The remarkable interiors represent typical art

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THE HIDEOUT

deco-era splendour including lacquered wood fittings and goldleafed flourishes, while iconic green cinema seats offer a luxurious audience experience in the elegant auditorium. One-night-only special events pack The Forum’s schedule, including live music, tribute acts, brass bands, orchestras and ‘in conversation’ events with visiting celebrities. • bathforum.co.uk • Little Theatre Cinema, St Michael’s Place

Proudly maintaining an independent vibe far removed from the commercial, multiplex behemoths, this trad-contempo cinema house flies the flag for the very best arthouse, cult and mainstream movies alongside regular special event screenings. Meanwhile, the lovely little (no pun intended) fully licensed refreshment kiosk negates the need for sneaking stinky takeaways and commercial confectionary wrapped in inconsiderate crackly plastic in under your coat. • picturehouses.com/cinema/The_Little • Theatre Royal Bath and The Ustinov Studio, Saw Close The new Theatre Royal Bath, referred to as the Theatre Royal Bath – opened its doors over a century ago. The theatre offers the cream of the UK’s touring company crop, while the Ustinov Studio on Monmouth Street specialises in acclaimed programmes of world and UK premieres alongside small-scale touring productions, live comedy, music and dance. • theatreroyal.org.uk

And after all that... SUPER-SMART LATE NIGHT COCKTAILS • The Dark Horse The deliciously devilish subterranean prohibition era-style speakeasy on leafy, historic Kingsmead Square casts a seductive spell over a bewitching cocktail menu, many created using locally sourced produce and ingredients including fruit and herbs foraged from the bountiful meadows nearby. Late night bar snacks available too. • Find it on: Kingsmead Square. Open until: 12.30am Monday-Thursday; 2am Friday-Saturday; 11.30pm Sunday • darkhorsebar.co.uk • Montagu's Mews at the Royal Crescent Hotel Stylishly seductive and subtly convivial, Montagu’s Mews is an oasis of modern luxury. Relax in the elegantly modern bar or take a table on the heated, partially covered terrace in the hotel’s breathtakingly pretty garden and prepare to choose from the extensive cocktail menu, artisan botanicals, small batch spirits and imaginatively curated wines and beers. • Find it on: The Royal Crescent (no.16). Open until: residential hotel hours • The Canary Gin Bar The vibe throughout this quirky, intimate split-level gin lovers paradise – home to the Bath Gin Company – is thoroughly beguiling. The recipe for the company’s eponymous spirit was POSTCARD from BATH / 127

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based specialities are fabulous, and the Manhattan is reputed to be the best in our non-stateside town. • Find it on: Russel Street. Open until: residential hotel hours

THE RUM LINE UP AT FIDELS

developed here, and is used as the basis for its signature cocktails alongside a massive range of contenders for the gin throne. If gin doesn’t make you grin, there are plenty more options. • Find it on: Queen Street. Open until: midnight, Monday–Saturday • The Grapes There’s been a public house on 14 Westgate Street since 1792. Today the gorgeous Grapes keeps that tradition thriving courtesy of an exceedingly well-stocked bar that muddles up both perfect cocktails and perfect pints while flying the flag for local artisan producers, a lively schedule of live music and fascinating events and a super-friendly ambience. If Pocock's Living Room (the event space on the first floor) is open, do pop up; the room has Jacobean origins and an ornate lime plaster ceiling (constructed around 1612) to prove it. • Find it on: Westgate Street. Open until: 1am MondayThursday; 2am Friday-Saturday; midnight Sunday • Circo If late-night bling makes your heart sing, super-chic cocktail hotspot Circo puts sparkly sensibilities into the cocktail/nightcap equation. Cool, lively and distinctly stylish, Circo offers a stunning array of cocktails alongside a comprehensive Champagne, wine and spirits list and, at weekends, in-house DJs spin a heady mix of funk, soul, disco, house and electro beats all the way through until 3am. • Find it on: George Street. Open until: midnight Monday– Thursday; 3am Friday–Saturday; 10.30pm Sunday • The Old Q Bar at the Queensberry Hotel The Queensberry Hotel’s Old Q bar is one of Bath’s most subtly glamorous hidden gems and the cocktail list a connoisseur’s joy to behold – there be no budget blends or middling mixers sullying the alcohol-infused waters here, and if you can’t see exactly what you want on the list, expert mixologists are on hand to offer recommendations. The fizz-

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• Fidel’s If rum is the latest cool spirit to set the tongues of influencers across the globe wagging (which it is), this intimate, easygoing little bar is the place to acquaint yourself with all manner of varieties of this legendarily characterful tipple. The cocktails are superb, and the staff super-friendly, knowledgeable, welcoming and more than happy to rustle up a little snifter of something else for the rum-reluctant. • Find it on: Trim Bridge (Queen Street). Open until: midnight Tuesday – Saturday • Sub 13 Smart, sophisticated and spread over three floors of what were once the domestic quarters for a grand Georgian townhouse, Sub 13 is home to a cocktail bar, a dedicated gin bar and a private, heated garden. Once you’ve made yourself comfortable here (which is very easy to do), you really won’t want to leave... But when you do, and if you’re wearing heels, kick them off before you go: Sub 13 is named after the 13 steps that lead down from the street to the cellar bar. • Find it on: George Street. Open until: midnight Monday– Wednesday; 1am Thursday; 3am Friday–Saturday; 11pm Sunday • The Hideout Perhaps appropriate for a tiny bar that, according to legend, was once an oasis for local thieves, scoundrels and highwaymen, the Hideout is a well-hidden experience, tucked away down the stairs off one of Bath’s most ancient thoroughfares. Today, the ancient, thick stone walls are stylish rather than foreboding, the vibe intimate rather than suspicious. At the epicentre, the cocktail list is as forward-thinking as a cocktail list gets while still paying respect to time-honoured tradition, and the bar staff are convivial. • Find it on: Lilliput Court, off North Parade Passage. Open until: 11pm, seven nights a week

AND WHEN HUNGER STRIKES • Late night nibbles ‘Formal’ late night/early morning dining options are scarce in Bath. But if hunger strikes before bed time, grab yourself a tasty burger from local legend Schwartz Bros (Saw Close and Walcot Street), a cool kebab from Al Falafel (Monmouth Street), a Greek treat from Taka Taka (Broad Street) or even a carton of cheesy chips from Mr D’s Burger Van (found on New Bond Street). Until you’ve ended an evening in Bath chowing down on one of the city’s original street food fast fixes, you’ll never be a true Bathonian. Sweet dreams. 

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LA TERRA R E STAU R A N T Mediterranean

Open for Lunch & Dinner Tuesday to Saturday La Terra Restaurant 2 john street Bath BA1 2JL 01225 482070 • booking@laterra.co.uk • www.laterra.co.uk

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POSTCARD from

BATH BUY A SOUVENIR COPY OR GIFT POSTCARD TO A FRIEND A great way to remember your stay in Bath... or plan your next visit Postcard is available for guests to enjoy either in-room or in the lobbies at most of the city’s 3, 4 and 5 star hotels, as well as in serviced apartments and many B&B’s across and around Bath. If you would like to buy a copy as a souvenir we can send one to your home – we will even include the cost of the postage to any UK postal address. You can order online via our website: postcardmagazine.co.uk or by calling our offices on +44 (0)1225 424 499 Priced at £10 per copy to any UK mainland address £15 per copy to any European address £20 to any international zone 1 address £25 to any international zone 2 address For postal zone information see: www.royalmail.com/international-zones

+ VISIT OUR WEBSITE Access great information on our handy, mobile friendly website as you tour around Bath

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