THE
MAGAZINE
FOR
THE
CANADIAN
BREWING
INDUSTRY
BREWERS J O U R N A L
C A N A D A
SPRING 2020 | ISSUE 16 ISSN 2398-6956
BLACK LAB BREWING A home for fans of great beer
and equally great canines in Toronto 18 | MACKINNON BROTHERS: MAKING THEIR MARK
45 | FILTRATION: ITS IMPACT ON HOP INTENSITY
55 | BREW 4.0: THE EVOLUTION OF HOMEBREW
SET YOUR GOALS
I
f we’ve learned anything since starting out with this magazine four years
Canadians are facing an incredible
ago is that the brewing industry is
challenge in confronting the COVID-19
blessed with a community spirit that
pandemic and unsurprisingly, brewers
is unrivalled by most others.
have stepped up to contribute wherever possible. But the future of the beer
Canada is, of course, home to breweries of
industry is unclear with beer’s most
all shapes and sizes but we can can only
popular selling season around the corner
speak from experience and that’s this sec-
and patios and pubs are shut down, while
tor is an engaging, exciting and rewarding
sports, festivals and social gatherings
one to be part of.
have been cancelled. This is expected to have direct impacts on the industry and
But there can be no denying that the
Canadian brewers, who directly employ
current global situation is challenging for
15,000 Canadians and pay nearly $1 billion
businesses of all sizes, regardless of the
in salaries and wages.
industry you form part of.
LEADER
We can be under no illusion that there are
brewersjournal.ca
Let’s look at the latest industry trends
hurdles to overcome, both currently and
report from Beer Canada. The research
those that lie ahead. Though we shouldn’t
showed an ongoing decrease in beer
lose sight of the future and the plans we
sales pointing to both a challenging and
have in place.
competitive market before the COVID-19 pandemic began.
With that in mind, esteemed British brewer John Keeling recently told us that
The data, which covers the most recent
you need vision, strategy and excellent
five years, revealed that the number of
communication to be a success. That it’s
breweries operating in Canada hit an
important to remember that strategy and
all-time high of 1,123 in 2019. This is nearly
vision are different. While vision is used
triple the number in operation from five
to inspire, strategy is about how we do, it
years ago.
not why. Finally, effective communication both internally and externally are vital. It’s a
Geographically, Ontario led with 350
long road ahead but we think that’s a good
breweries within its borders and Québec
place to start.
was the next up with 240. The rise in the number of breweries continues to outpace
Thanks to the research from Beer Canada,
domestic beer sales, which fell 3.9 per
which has represented Canadian brewers
cent in 2019. Imported beer sales were
since 1943. Make sure to head to their
down by 1.5 per cent. Overall total sales
website for the full industry trends report.
decreased by 3.0 per cent between 2018 and 2019.
The Brewers Journal Canada Team
SPRING 2020
|
3
Q u a lity B e e r E d u c a tio n is ju s t a c lic k a w a y !
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www.tfkbeer.com 289-314-5852 rmittag@thirstforknowledge.ca
PROVIDING SOLUTIONS FOR ALL YOUR BEER PROCESSING AND PACKAGING NEEDS. prosperoequipment.com 1-800-953-3736
info@prosperoequipment.com
SPRING 2020
CONTENTS
Comment | Packaging How camera technology enables us to work from distance, and its role in your brewery operations
10
Comment | Diversification How traditional breweries are looking beyond beer to hard seltzer and other spirit blends
12
Comment | Sanitation Why properly designed Ozone systems are proven to save water, time, and money for breweries
15
Meet The Brewer | MacKinnon Brothers Head brewer Daniel MacKinnon takes on his brewing journey and that of his family brewery
18
Sector | Water Why closed loop water treatment and recycling is growing in popularity for brewery owners
24
Brewery Tour | Black Lab Brewing How Billy Madden has helped create a home in Toronto for fans of beer and our canine friends
26
Focus | Cachaรงa Why spirits such as Cachaรงa could be the new craft spirit
33
Science | Filtration Challenging assumptions regarding the impact sterile filtration has on hop intensity
45
Science | Molecular Detection A new solution, simpler and faster than agarose gel that can identify harmful bacteria
50
Homebrewing | Brew 4.0 Your new-look focus into all things homebrewing
55
10
Comment | Diversification
Why traditional breweries are looking beyond beer to hard seltzer and other spirit blends
6
|
SPRING 2020
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
18
Meet The Brewer | MacKinnon Brothers
How brothers Daniel and Ivan, along with help from family and friends, have created a brewery that’s the pride of Bath, Ontario
CONTACTS Tim Sheahan Editor tim@rebymedia.com +44 (0)1442 780 592 Richard Piotrowski Canada Bureau Chief richard@rebymedia.com +1 647 975 7656 Jakub Mulik Staff photographer Johnny Leung Canada Partnerships johnny@rebymedia.com +1 647 975 7656 Jon Young Publisher jon@rebymedia.com Reby Media 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP1 1PA, UK
33 Focus | Cachaça
Why spirits such as Cachaça could be the new craft spirit
26
Brewery Tour | Black Lab
You like beer? Of course.. You love dogs? Obviously... Then Black Lab Brewing in Toronto, might just the place for you
brewersjournal.ca
SUBSCRIPTIONS The Brewers Journal Canada is a quarterly magazine mailed every Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Subscriptions can be purchased for four or eight issues. Prices for single issue subscriptions or back issues can be obtained by emailing: sales@rebymedia.com
CANADA One year: $39 INTERNATIONAL One year: $49 The content of The Brewers Journal Canada is subject to copyright. However, if you would like to obtain copies of an article for marketing purposes high-quality reprints can be supplied to your specification. Please contact the advertising team for full details of this service. The Brewers Journal Canada is printed at Print Buy, 15 - 1253 Silvan Forest Drive, Burlington On, L7M 0B715
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without the express prior written consent of the publisher. The Brewers Journal Canada ISSN 2398-6948 is published quarterly by Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA, UK. Subscription records are maintained at Reby Media, 42 Crouchfield, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire, HP1 1PA, UK. The Brewers Journal accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of statements or opinion given within the Journal that is not the expressly designated opinion of the Journal or its publishers. Those opinions expressed in areas other than editorial comment may not be taken as being the opinion of the Journal or its staff, and the aforementioned accept no responsibility or liability for actions that arise therefrom.
SPRING 2020
|
7
NEWS
INDUSTRY UNITES ONLINE FOR COVID-19 CONVERSATION
B
rewers, manufacturers,
Josh McJannett co-Founder of Dominion
at moment. Summer is on the horizon
suppliers and industry bodies
City Co and Wayne Arsenault the Presi-
and that is always a great win for us, like
have come together to
dent/CEO at Big Rock Brewery discuss
every brewery. There are major question
discuss how the Canadian
the challenges of navigating the beer
marks surrounding the future of events,
brewing industry can counter
business during a Canada-wide crisis.
gatherings and concerts when it comes to
the COVID-19 threat.
In a session expertly chaired by Shelley
physical distancing.
Organised by Brewers Journal Canada,
Beirnes, key accounts technical sales
“There is talk of the local bar opening
two editions of the Virtual Lectures, taking
manager at BSG Canada, there was a
again in two months. But the way things
place in both English and French languag-
consensus that direct sales have helped in
are going, we should be be talking more
es were held online during April.
the short term, but challenges inevitably
about the next 12 or 24 months, instead.”
Promoting debate and discussion, experts
lie ahead.
In a panel on the subject of navigating COVID-19 with your suppliers, Wakelin Fulford, technical sales specialist at Lakeside Process Controls and Eric van der Beek, senior sector manager for Diversey Food & Beverage shared their expertise. “Now is time to engage with those around you more than ever,” explained Fulford. “Speak to suppliers to see how they can support you and how they can help you grow.” Concluding the event Rick Dalmazzi, executive director of the Canadian Craft Brewers Association and Luke Chapman, interim president of Beer Canada looked at ‘Legislation Efforts and How The Industry Bounces Back from COVID-19’. The duo agreed that while there is likely to be an uptick in sales volumes for March,
from across the field of brewing and an-
“A beer is an affordable comfort in a world
the following months is when things will
cillary industries explained how their busi-
that doesn’t seem very comfortable right
become more challenging and that this is,
nesses have been affected by the global
now,” said McJannett. “There’s a lot of
of course, “worrysome” for the industry.
pandemic and the measures they’ve
goodwill out there. Rather than make us
Dalmazzi explained: “It’s hard to be
implemented to ride the storm.
all act like animals, it is bringing a lot of
knocking on the door for industry specific
Viewers heard from Billy Madden, owner
people together.”
support right now. Governments will ask
of Black Lab Brewing, Tim McLaughlin, VP
Arsenault added, however: “Looking at
what everyone needs then it’ll filter down
of marketing at Steam Whistle Brewing,
the broader picture, there is no vaccine
with work happening behind the scenes.
8
|
SPRING 2020
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
“But what is important is to get you know and develop relationships with public servants. It doesn’t matter who is
CASK GOES VIRTUAL TO GET BREWERIES INTO CANS
in power, involve these people in what you do. Show them your role in communities and the value of that.” According to Dalmazzi, the current crisis is a good time to reflect on your business, and how it has evolved. “Think about what works and what doesn’t,” he said. “Think about being leaner because being a great brewery is more than great beer, it’s about having a great business.” The second Virtual Lectures, taking place at the end of April, focused on the brewing scene in and around Quebec. We heard from, and valued the contributions of, Guillaume Couraud, co-owner of BreWskey Pub & Taproom, Jean-François Gravel, master Brewer at Dieu du Ciel, beer industry journalist Émilie Leclerc and Martin Audet,
To work around global travel restrictions
when packaged beer sales are often a
director of operations at Agro-Biotech
and help its customers earn revenue
brewery’s only source of revenue due to
Station.
during the COVID-19 crisis, Cask Global
the pandemic.
There was also engaging discussion
Canning Solutions has just completed its
“More than ever,” says Dawn Lutz, Cask’s
from Pascal Thibault, Eastern Cana-
first “virtual” canning system installations.
Director of Customer Success, “our
da sales for Brew Culture, JP Paradis,
To make these five installations happen,
customers need to get their products in
managing director at Hart Print, Nico
Cask hustled together a new team of three
cans and out to their customers. So we’ve
Leclerc, director of business devel-
installers who delivered phone and vid-
adapted our service model to make that
opment and events in Quebec and
eo-chat help, and five more Cask staffers
happen.”
Eastern Ontario for Diversey.
who worked behind the scenes to build an
The virtual team spent two weeks prepar-
The session concluded with Frédérick
online portal of training videos and other
ing for these new virtual installs. “There
Tremblay, president of Microbrasserie
resources.
were some long days and some late
Charlevoix - representing Associa-
Dead Frog Brewing (in British Columbia,
nights,” Lutz says, “and it’s been a digi-
tion des Microbrasseries du Québec
Canada) recently commissioned its new
tal construction zone here for a couple
(AMBQ) and the Canadian Craft Brewers
Cask Automated System V5 via Cask’s new
weeks. But we pulled it all together.”
Association (CCBA).
virtual program. The effort took place in
Cask’s new virtual program will be used
six hours of time over two days. Longtime
for more upcoming installations. When
Thank you again to all involved and also
Cask installer Terry Farrell headed up the
travel and social distancing restrictions are
the invaluable sponsors and partners
virtual effort for Cask.
removed, Cask will conduct on-site visits
over both events; BSG Canada, Ska Fab,
“The virtual install and training were per-
with each of these virtual customers if
Nameless-Productions, Baron Mag and
fect for us,” says Dan Braaten, Dead Frog’s
needed.
GBV360 Pro.
production manager. “We were up and
While this new-tech effort has been crucial
running smoothly in just a couple days and
help for new Cask customers during the
the canning line is amazing.” Cole Smith,
COVID-19 situation, it has also been a plus
Dead Frog’s head brewer, agrees. “The
for Cask’s customer-service team.
virtual systems Cask set up because of
“We’ve really been inspired,” Lutz says, “by
the COVID situation” Smith says, “are great.
how consumers have rallied behind their
Far left: John Keeling, former head brew-
And Terry was awesome and a wealth of
favorite breweries and how brewers have
er of London, UK-based Fuller’s speaking
knowledge.”
dug in and found creative ways to get
at the first Brewers Lectures in Canada
The virtual commissioning enabled these
through this.”
in 2018.
breweries to get beer into cans at a time
brewersjournal.ca
SPRING 2020
|
9
BE THERE WITHOUT BEING THERE WE LIVE IN A TIME WHERE CAMERA TECHNOLOGY ENABLES US TO WORK FROM DISTANCE. HERE, DEREK JONES, MARKETING MANAGER AT ROBOPAC USA EXPLAINS, HOW THIS CAN BE LEVERAGED IN YOUR STRETCH WRAPPING OPERATION, TOO.
M
odern technology is
If the machine has a problem that stops
everywhere. Video door-
production, the machine itself will send
bell cameras allow us to
an SMS message directly to your dealer
see who is at our front
technician who sees the problem on the
door even though we
Rconnect platform. The technician imme-
may be hundreds of miles away on vaca-
diately troubleshoots the problem and if it
tion creating a sense of safety. Cameras at
is not solvable remotely arranges a service
daycares allow moms and dads to check
visit.
in throughout the day while at work to see how their children’s day is going.
In the unlikely event that performance
For your end of line packaging and
upgrades are desired, an “on demand
shipping operation, most of us know that
Robopac USA dealer” will simulate a wrap-
a problem has occurred when you hear
ping cycle on a product like the custom-
that a machine is down from one of your
er’s product in Robopac USA’s TechLab.
operators. We know what our film costs
Then, thanks to the Rconnect platform,
are by comparing quarterly or even yearly
Robopac USA can upgrade the machine
expenditures or when we receive a report
software with the remote connection.
from our film sales representative. Predictive maintenance checks the motors Modern technology is now moving into
current absorption. The end user or dealer
your stretch wrapping operation. R-con-
will be able to do a mechanical main-
nect from Robopac USA, is a techno-
tenance check. Thanks to knowing the
logically advanced monitoring system
number of wrapped pallets, it is possible
that allows you to monitor your operation
to intervene in advance on worn out parts,
anywhere on any device. Simply download
such as turning plate support wheels.
the R-connect app for performance monitoring/optimization, downtime reduction,
Remote monitoring allows the end user
upgrade performance, predictive main-
to check whether their machines are ok
tenance, remote monitoring, film usage
(green light), or momentarily in alarm (red
statistics, and service ticketing.
light).
Performance monitoring includes details
Usage statistics provide the ability to
on how much film the machine is con-
quickly see the number of wrapping
suming. This can provide valuable insight
cycles performed by the machine. The
in planning for film expenditures and to
number of wrapped pallets on display
better understand if you are maximizing
allows the end user to process statistics
film usage per load. Data also shows the
on their machines.
number of pallets wrapped, how long the machine has been in run status to better
The future is now. Monitor and improve
understand usage and potential upcom-
your performance with Robopac USA’s
ing servicing needs, and film break data
R-connect remote assistance.
to better understand how the machine is meeting your uptime and performance expectations.
10
|
SPRING 2020
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
FROM BEER TO RTD BEVERAGES: BREWING REIMAGINED AS BEER GROWTH SLOWS, TRADITIONAL BREWERIES ARE LOOKING BEYOND BEER TO HARD SELTZER AND OTHER SPIRIT BLENDS. AND THEY’RE FINDING THE BREWING PROCESS VERY ACCOMMODATING, EXPLAINS STEVE GRUNDY, FOUNDER AND CEO OF TOP 5 SOLUTIONS.
B
eer makers face tough times.”
like hard seltzer. And you likely already
– IndustryWeek
have the license, equipment and capacity
“Beer sales stay flat.” – USA
you need.
Today “Beer is dying.” – CNN
Making beer is one use for your current
It’s enough to keep any brewer up at night.
process. But if you add some additional
Outside pockets of growth in China, India
capabilities, a sugar dosing system or a
and Brazil, most global markets are hitting
carbo blender for example, and totes or
a beer sales plateau at the hands of a
tanks containing the requisite ingredients,
more health-conscious consumer. One
you’re set to produce new beverages
that drinks less alcohol, and looks for the
with minimal capital investment within the
kick without the calories when they do
same four walls. From there, you use the
drink.
same packaging equipment, and even
Stepping in not-so-quietly is the ready to
the same distribution channels you have
drink (RTD) cocktail market. Spirits-based
today.
drinks, hard seltzer, cannabis-kombucha-coffee-infused. You name it, your
Another benefit is the faster process time
customers are drinking it. Even craft beer
for hard seltzer brewing. Fermentation
loyalists.
takes days instead of weeks, moving prod-
Analysts agree it’s not a fad and the big
uct faster so you can produce more. And
producers know it’s an opportunity. 2019
it uses fewer, less expensive ingredients.
saw the creation of a “Beyond Beer”
With a little planning, the same attention
division at Anheuser-Busch. And Molson
to quality and consistency, and the help of
Coors kicked off 2020 as the Molson Coors
brewing process automation, the learning
Beverage (not brewing) Company.
curve is small and the upside will give
While hard seltzer brewing and the like
your customers more reasons to love your
isn’t for everyone, there’s a big upside for
brand and inspire investors to continue
owners and investors open to line exten-
fueling your growth.
sions. And it is more attainable than you might think.
You’ll want scalable flexibility to build and execute these new recipes and config-
So, you may ask, can my brewery do that?
urations. A modular software application can greatly simplify the process, making it
12
|
SPRING 2020
A brewery is an ideal environment to
easy to add a module for blending, sugar
invent, develop and craft RTD beverages
dosing, flash pasteurizing or whatever you
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
Carbonation loop. Courtesy - Actemium Beverage Process Solutions, Strasbourg FR
may need. When evaluating a solution,
decisions with the future in mind, as one
look for one built on an open platform that
Rockwell Automation customer shared at
allows you to batch and blend many bev-
Automation Fair recently.
erage types, such as the FactoryTalk Brew or FactoryTalk Craft Brew solution. Make
“The seltzer market didn’t even exist when
sure it can do the following.
we conceptualized the brewery. We built a brewery that can make beer. But we can
Just as the biggest names in beer have
Balance your operations with easy
also brew other products, maybe even
been impacted by craft brews, so can
scheduling and recipe management that
products we haven’t thought of yet” – Jim
big-seltzer be impacted by craft RTDs.
accounts for large and small batches,
McCabe, president and founder of Mil-
And the market is wide open for spiked
multiple brands and rapidly changing
waukee Brewing Company.
beverage innovation.
production needs. The industry is changing – and that’s OK
As we learned with craft beer in the past
Get you to market faster with tools that
Don’t think you can get excited about
decade, remain authentic to your brand,
help standardize your operation and con-
RTDs? You’re not alone.
and loyalty will follow.
trol costs. Many brewers have a hard time feeling the
Whether you’re going all in on the seltzer
Provide information about the batches,
same passion for this new market as they
surge, or perfecting your next IPA, keep
helping you to improve quality and con-
have for beer. But blended drinks don’t
your brewing process flexible, your brand
sistency while maintaining compliance.
have to be void of excitement. Stay true to
promise unwavering and check out this
what makes you unique, like local ingredi-
video featuring automation options for
ents, bold flavors or whatever it may be.
every size brewery.
It comes down to making deliberate
brewersjournal.ca
SPRING 2020
|
13
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OPTIMIZE THE BREWERY WATER AND SANITATION PROCESS PROPERLY DESIGNED OZONE SYSTEMS ARE PROVEN TO SAVE WATER, TIME, AND MONEY FOR BREWERIES OF ALL SIZES, EXPLAINS ADAM DORAN (M.SC.) – VP MARKETING AND SALES AT ACLARUS OZONE
O
zone has been used for
wastewater, ozone systems can provide
over 100 years for munici-
an effective and sustainable solution to
pal treatment, particularly
reduce or eliminate discharge costs.
in Europe. With new advances, ozone is increas-
Ozone is a specialized treatment and
ingly used in brewery operations due to
working with the right partner is important
its strengths over traditional chemical
for success. Each project requires review
methods. Ozone was approved as GRAS
of the site and requirements to treat. The
(generally regarded as safe) by the US FDA
ideal partner will be well experienced and
(Food & Drug Administration) in 1982 and
ask the right questions first, to provide a
approved for use on food in 2001, growing
design proposal with rationale and costing
substantially since then.
that clearly outline the control, safety, and function of the system. This includes
The Canadian Food Inspection Agency
material compatibility, monitoring/alarms,
(CFIA) has ozone as an approved listing in
operating costs, warranty, after market
the Food and Drug Regulations. Supple-
support, among others.
menting or replacing an existing chemical treatment system with an ozone system
TREATMENT PROCESS
can reduce costs and time while improving safety and quality.
Generated on-demand, the level of ozone required is determined by water quality,
Ozone is produced on site, eliminating
treatment goals, and flow rate. As critical
the purchase, storage, and handling of
as generating ozone, the method of injec-
chemicals improving safety, costs, time,
tion, mixing, and regulating of ozone is just
and sustainability. Ozone system tech-
as important for efficiency and results.
nology has greatly accelerated in the last
brewersjournal.ca
10 years offering automated systems that
Unmatched in speed and strength, ozone
are easy to operate, with a quick return on
disinfects by “cell-lysing” that splits open
investment (ROI). Ozone is stronger, safer,
bacteria/viruses killing them instantly,
and faster than chemicals by effectively
whereas chemicals like chlorine slow-
sanitizing using only cold water and no
ly poison cells while also creating new
additional rinse.
chemical compounds and by-products.
Ozone effectively treats organics, metals,
Exceptional at disinfection, ozone also
and more without leaving any residual
oxidizes the water to pull contaminants
residue. Importantly for brewing, it also
out while also effectively removing colour,
removes taste, odour, and colour to assure
taste and odour. Following ozonation, wa-
quality between recipes. For problematic
ter is filtered and then ozone is removed
SPRING 2020
|
15
for incoming water use or it can be left
generation of ozone systems are compact,
when switching to ozone. For all size of
in at set levels (e.g. 2ppm) for sanitation
modular for expansion, low power, moni-
breweries, the savings quickly convert into
or for waste treatment. Closed loop CIP
tored, and warrantied.
increased profits. The savings would be found in three categories i) water ii) chem-
using ozone allows for greater water reuse, reducing water and chemical consumption
BREWERY WASTEWATER
INCOMING WATER
ical iii) energy. Research articles noted ozone ability in “…reducing the amount of
while reducing operational requirements. “achieved up to 88% removal of COD, a
water used/discharged (50%)” (Canut et al.
maximum 68% removal of BOD5 and up to
2013).
75% removal of suspended solids” Terry 2010 For those dealing with regulatory overage
“one of the strongest commercially available oxidants, with a disinfecting strength 3,000
Regardless of the region, wastewater from
fees the savings is even more impact-
times that of chlorine” (Onken 2013)
breweries typically faces issues for both
ful. Just as important as these tangible
cost and regulatory demands. When using
savings is improving time and efficiency for
Incoming water treatment can be an
ozone versus other types of chemical
the operation.
important step for consistent quality, es-
disinfectants, such as chlorine, there have
pecially for well or surface water sources.
been noted differences in the quality of
Ozone can disinfect and treat water to
the wastewater produced. With superior
premium quality water without salt or
treatment, ozone improves wastewater
chemicals. Even with municipal water,
discharge for septic or municipal quali-
ozone will remove chlorine, metals, and
ty, and in some cases safe non-potable
many micropollutants, such as hormones
reuse. Treating brewery wastewater can be
as well as colour, taste, and smell. Ozone
challenging and, in some cases, additional
has no impact on pH levels and will pro-
components will be added.
REFERENCES
Ozone optimizes other treatments and can
Arranz, Miguel Ángel Prieto, Dr. G. Scho-
easily be retrofitted into existing, under-
ries 2007. The use of aqueous ozone for
performing equipment. System designers
cleaning operations in breweries. IOA
need to assess the needs for individual
Conference and Exhibition Valencia,
“ active against bacteria, fungi, viruses,
breweries with analysis of water quality,
Spain - October 29 – 31, 2007
protozoa… leaves no chemical residual and
flow rate, treatment goals, and potentially
degrades to…oxygen” (Arranz et al 2007).
small-scale testing/piloting. This is done
Canut, A., Llorca, I., Soro, R, Pascual,
to determine the level of treatment and
A 2013. Reducing costs by integrating
Aqueous ozone is pre-approved for
ozone required to treat (e.g. disinfection,
ozonated water in the CIP systems
cleaning and is commonly used for san-
BOD, COD, TSS etc…). It should be noted
Research Association for Food Industry
itizing surfaces as well as kegs, bottles,
that using ozone as a CIP process, the run-
(ainia). Quality, food safety and environ-
brewing vessels, and more. Following
off wastewater contaminants are lessened
ment department Valencia.
industry standard practices, ozone is
“reducing at least by 50%, the organic load
applied as a final rinse sanitizer to destroy
in the cleaning waste waters produced”
Terry, Patricia A 2010. Application of
bacteria, viruses, taste, colour, fungi, and
(Canut et al. 2013).
Ozone and Oxygen to Reduce Chemical
vide, clean water that reduces costs for soaps, acids, and cleaners. CIP SANITATION
Oxygen Demand and Hydrogen Sulfide
more. Using cold water with no additional chemical rinse lowers demands for time,
This is due to ozone not contributing to
from a Recovered Paper Processing
water, chemicals, and power. Ozone also
COD and its ability to treat many contam-
Plant.
offers an ideal reuse option when used in
inants prior to discharge. The results are
Department of Natural and Applied
a closed loop, lessening water and waste
the elimination or reduction in wastewater
Sciences, University of Wisconsin-Green
and can also provide a more effective
costs and discharge fees while improving
Bay, 2420 Nicolet Drive, ES317, Green
pre-rinse.
efficiencies and sustainability.
Bay,WI 54311, USA.
Ozone CIP can benefit wastewater quality
COST COMPARISON
Hanley-Onken, Erika 2013. Ozone: A New Water Management Paradigm. Pharma-
as any residual ozone in the water can reduce contaminants in the run-off water,
There is significant independent research
helping to keep drain lines clear. New
demonstrating the savings for breweries
16
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ceutical Manufacturing Magazine.
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
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MEET THE BREWER
MACKINNON BROTHERS BREWED BY TRADITION 18
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WHAT DO YOU GET IF YOU MIX A BREWER VERSED IN THE WAYS OF ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST RESPECTED BREWING SCHOOLS, AND A PROFESSIONAL ENGINEER WITH COUNTLESS EXPERIENCE IN MULTINATIONAL MANUFACTURING? ADD A SALES WHIZZ BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
OF A COUSIN AND A WELDING PRO CHILDHOOD FRIEND TO THE MIX AND YOU GET MACKINNON BROTHERS BREWING CO. THE PRIDE OF BATH, ONTARIO, CELEBRATING ITS SIXTH BIRTHDAY THIS MAY. NOT BAD GOING FOR A GROUP THAT JUST WANTED TO “DO SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT”. brewersjournal.ca
L
et’s rewind to the early 2010s.
But these journeys, the new beginnings
The world was a very differ-
and sense of purpose, are all intwined. Not
ent place. If you were to tell
only with the brewery’s founders but with
Daniel MacKinnon, one part of
their families and those that came long
MacKinnon Brothers Brewing
before.
Co, that a decade later his brewery would be celebrating its sixth anniversary then he
The first non-native inhabitants of this part
probably wouldn’t have believed you.
of Ontario were the United Empire Loyalists. In 1784, a portion of the Jessup Loyal
Because, although he was involved in
Rangers, who made the long, hard trek
the field of brewing back then, there was
from what is now New York State, settled
some 5,500km separating the rugby
in the Adolphustown and Bath areas.
clubhouse in Surrey, UK, where he lived and the literal fields of the family farm in
Some of the current families can trace
Bath, Ontario where Daniel and brother
their existence back to these Loyalist
Ivan would go on to start a brewery of their
Settlers, and the MacKinnons are among
own.
them. They settled on the land that same
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year and through the generations, built a thriving farm. And now the land is fulfilling a different purpose, in the production of beer. “There are always new projects to be catching up on. Whether we’re starting them or finishing them, there’s always something to do,” muses Daniel. The global Covid-19 pandemic has impacted MacKinnon Brothers Brewing Co, like it has every business, but the team has taken the challenge head-on. Local beer sales are helping sustain the business, with drinkers enjoying beer delivered to their doorstep.
Introducing brewing to this land has been a way for us to make farming more sustainable” Daniel MacKinnon, MacKinnon Brothers Brewing Co
Just some more than others… “People are supporting local and that’s a great thing,” he says. “Growler fills allow us to use up keg beer and we’re delivering cases of 24 cans at a time. Sometimes people order five cases and you know what, they are exercising but they’re just exercising their right to drink beer!” The brewery has a very loyal following, and that’s before we’ve even mentioned the MacKinnon delivery truck being stopped in town by thirsty patrons successfully procuring beer from the back of the vehicle. Delivering beer, like many of their peers, demonstrates a hands-on attitude that Daniel along with brother Ivan, cousin Ben Vandenberg and close friend Andrew Weel, have adopted with the business. When they’re not catering for local orders, work continues on building works around the farm. This will help expand the brewery’s production facilities and retail operation, as well as host more events such as weddings. An offering that is already proving popular with soon-to-be newlyweds. One of the farm’s timber frame buildings, boasting 10,000sqft in space, will allow the team to house additional fermentation vessels, a loading dock and office space.
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
Ivan MacKinnon (left) and brother Daniel MacKinnon celebrate the sixth anniversary of their brewery in 2020
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Daniel has a passion for brewing approachable, malt-centric beers
“Just like a real brewery has,” laughs Daniel.
processing and automation experience gained at numerous manufacturing facili-
But for land that has been in the family
ties across Ontario, including Kellogg’s Inc.
for nearly 250 years, the MacKinnons like to do things properly. It seems there is no
But for brewmaster Daniel, his journey has
point rushing something here if the end
taken him somewhat further afield. During
product is going to be substandard as a
his studies at Ontario Agricultural College,
result.
University of Guelph, conversations with his roommate about the world of home-
“Introducing brewing to this land has
brewing would prove to be his earliest
been a way for us to make farming more
lightbulb moment in the world of beer.
sustainable,” explains Daniel. “At the end of the day, we can bring in sales which
The aforementioned ‘can-do’ attitude led
means we don’t have to rely so heavily on
Daniel to apply for the Masters course in
the farm, squeeze every penny out if it and
Brewing and Distilling at the venerable He-
we can plant more crops offer than things
riot-Watt University in Edinburgh, Scotland.
other than simply maximum yields.”
He was accepted so a new chapter in the UK beckoned.
Daniel is part of tight-knit unit. He shows a huge amount of respect to trio that work
“I knew it would create opportunities for
with him. Cousin Ben Vandenberg is “a
me,” he recalls. “Whether that was running
heck of a salesman” and Weel is also a
my own business or working for someone
sales maestro and “an excellent welder”.
else didn’t matter. It was just important to develop and who knows, maybe I could
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His brother Ivan, is a licensed Professional
end up in somewhere warm like the Car-
Engineer with project management, food
ibbean!”
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
We want to make beers that you can drink at least least six of before getting bored,” Daniel MacKinnon
Daniel’s experiences in the UK broadened his horizons, but he was not alone in Scotland. Far from it. “Of the 22 people on the course, eight were from Canada and we learned that six of us lived 30 minutes from each other while at university back home!” he laughs. Many of these ties are as strong now, with Herriot-Watt alumni working at Canadian outfits such as Muskoka, Silversmith Brewing Company and Labatt Breweries, among others. Daniel has fond memories of learning under the tutelage of Graham Stewart. Stewart is Emeritus Professor in Brewing and Distilling at Heriot-Watt and Visiting Professor in Bioethanol Fermentation at Nottingham University, England. “He had the most incredible Whisky selection,” Daniel recalls. “Graham was retiring from full-time teaching so he raised mon-
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The MacKinnon family farm is not only home to a brewery, but an events space that is proving popular as a wedding venue (and it has come a long way since these photos were taken, too)
ey for charity by asking us to contribute
his current job and ready for a fresh start.
and in return you’d get a bottle. You just
Their father was getting older and talk of
didn’t know what bottle you were getting,
how they could use the family land for a
or how much was left in it!”
different purpose came to a head.
Visits to Highland distilleries over Christ-
The solution, was to open a brewery.
mas live long in the memory, as do tours of Edinburgh’s Caledonian Brewery and its
“There are many pros and cons of living on
open square fermenters.
farmland. But when it comes to something like starting a brewery, these old buildings
“Nowadays, when I’m paranoid about
as well tools that are 60/70 years old real-
opening up the top of our FVs for dry-hop-
ly come into their own,” he smiles.
ping, I think back to that day and remind myself of how resilient beer can be,” he
Daniel bid farewell to the UK and returned
explains.
to a community that was fully supportive of the idea of having a brewery to call their
Daniel wasn’t finished with his UK sabbat-
own.
ical despite his Masters at Herriot-Watt coming to an end. He’d head south to
And after years of plugging away, MacK-
England and the leafy county of Surrey,
innon Brothers Brewing Co would open
located just outside of London.
in May 2014. A business that draws on the local land as much as it does the inspira-
Here he’d work at Campden BRI, the UK’s
tion and expertise of those behind it.
leading brewing research centre, covering
“We have a saying here that we want to
all matters related to beer and wine devel-
make beers that you can drink at least six
opment, production and analysis.
of before getting bored,” says Daniel. “It’s not a hard-and-fast rule but I think we look
As assistant brewer and maltster, Daniel
at the market in our own way, and make
says the experience gave him a deeper
the beers we enjoy.”
appreciation of the laboratory side of the brewing industry. Living in England also
Daniel’s appreciation of approachable,
gave him a deeper appreciation of ses-
malt-centric beer styles have no doubt
sion-strength beers, especially those on
been influenced by his travels. But this
cask dispense.
attitude is one that’s clearly shared by the many drinkers that enjoy the brewery’s
He’d enjoy beers such as Greene King IPA,
beers, too.
a 3.6% ale feature pale, crystal and black malts joined by Pilgrim, Challenger and
Crosscut is MacKinnon’s rendition of a tra-
First Gold Hops.
ditional Canadian ale. It may be darker and more complex than commercial lagers,
“I missed playing hockey like I did in Edin-
but at 5.2% it’s palatable for easy drinking.
burgh but managed to find a local rugby
brewersjournal.ca
club in Surrey to join; Old Reigatians,” he
Using 100% Ontario grown hops, Chi-
recounts. “I’d go out and drink with the
nook for bittering and Cascade for aroma
team, which was great fun. They found a
complement a malt bill of Canadain 2 row
loophole, where all foreign members of
ale malt, German amber malt and portion
the team could live in the club housing for
of wheat from the family farm is added to
almost free, turned out that included me!”
give a crisp, clean foam.
Versed in the ways of beers from countries
Another beer, 8 Man, was the team’s first
such as England and Scotland, Daniel
brew and is an English Pale Ale that’s rem-
would return home to celebrate Christmas
iniscent of the malt rich brews shared after
with the family. Over this period, brother
many a tough rugby match Daniel would
Ivan would explain he was fed up with
have experienced in the UK.
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MacKinnon Brothers take great pride in using locally-grown produce in their beers
Once more, 100% Ontario grown hops
the volume they account for. It’s better to
are used. They start with a good portion
listen to those around you, and what their
of dark UK Crystal Malt combined with
tastes are. There’s no point always trying
the higher concentration of malt to water
to please everybody.”
in the brew. It makes this beer their most expensive to produce, however, this is re-
And that ethos is one that has worked well
flected in its higher alcohol content (5.8%)
for the brewery and its team. MacKinnon
and rich taste.
Brothers will output around 5,000HL this year. They work on a two-vessel 25HL
“When we were starting out, a guy told me
brewhouse, which offers up the ability to
that he wanted to buy local but didn’t like
scale-up capacity when required.
the overly hoppy beers many breweries were making,” Daniel recalls. “He didn’t
With a team of 14, across brewing, sales,
want anything crazy and I took that to
events and deliveries, they’re content and
heart, because I didn’t either. Sure, if we
confident on the future, in what is a chal-
made something too light, we’d get eaten
lenging landscape for breweries as it is for
alive by beer reviews online but I knew
every other industry, too.
that people wanted easy-drinking beers and we could bridge the gap and make a
“It has been a lot of work, but this brewery
full flavoured beer they would like.”
has been incredibly rewarding to be part of,” says Daniel. “I never check my watch
He adds: “I sometimes think that beer
to see when I can go home, I think that
aficionados are often over-emphasised in
means you’re enjoying what you’re doing.”
the market. Especially when you consider
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
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THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY, WATER REUSE, AND THE BREWING INDUSTRY CLOSED LOOP WATER TREATMENT AND RECYCLING IS GROWING IN POPULARITY AS BREWERIES EVALUATE THE PROS AND CONS OF ON-SITE CIRCULAR ECONOMY SOLUTIONS, EXPLAINS JOHN NICHOLSON OF CHAR TECHNOLOGIES. THE DECISION TO REDUCE, RE-USE AND IMPLEMENT THESE SOLUTIONS STRIKES A BALANCE BETWEEN FISCAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY. CLOSED-LOOP WATER RECYCLING SYSTEMS AT BREWERIES CAN CUT WATER CONSUMPTION, ELIMINATE POLLUTION, AND SAVE MONEY OVER THE LONG-TERM. 28
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T
he water in the beer you drink
for every litre of product. In addition to
today could have passed
the large amount of water found in beer
through the lips of Julius
products, water is also needed for clean-
Caesar. This maxim is an
ing processes to ensure that the brewing
acknowledgement that water
equipment is sanitary. Water loss due to
is neither created nor destroyed, merely
accidental spills and off-spec batches of
recirculated around the earth. It is also
product is also common.
part of the focus in many industries on
A clean, ample water supply is not the only
how the “circular economy” applies to their
challenge facing brewers. Determining
business.
how best to manage the wastewater they
For brewers, incorporating water recycling
generate has its own headaches. Waste-
and reuse into business operations as part
water from the brewing industry has a high
of the circular economy is worth consider-
organic content due to intensive cleaning
ing for multiple reasons. In this article, we
processes as well as the presence of
examine the challenges related to water
waste beer and hops. The high organic
supply and wastewater treatment, the pros
content of liquid waste combined with
and cons of water recycling, and discuss a
cleaning process wastewater can combine
case study in which water recycling made
to overwhelm on-site systems and/or the
economic sense.
municipal wastewater treatment facility.
With water making up over ninety percent
In the brewing industry, it is not uncom-
of the product, ensuring its supply is criti-
mon for a facility to pay fees to a munic-
cal to any brewing operation. The growth
ipality under a “Surcharge Agreement” to
of craft breweries across North America
treat wastewater that does not meet the
has, in some cases, put a strain on local
sewer use bylaw limits. The associated
water supplies. For example, in Vancouver
surcharge fees can be in excess of tens
an increase in water consumption can be
of thousands of dollars. These fees may
correlated with the increase in the number
be justified as they replace the need for
of craft breweries that opened in the city.
the brewery to build and operate its own
In response to increased water consump-
wastewater treatment system.
tion and wastewater discharge, the city of
Some breweries are required by the local
Vancouver told the breweries to reduce
authorities and/or decide to implement
their water usage or face increased water
a wastewater treatment system to treat
fees.
their wastewater on-site prior to discharge.
Studies and surveys have shown that the
There are pros and cons to this option.
amount of water required in a brewery
The cons include dealing with potential
can range from 3.5 to 6 litres, per litre of
odour issues, spatial restrictions, and the
product produced. In some cases, water
need for specialized training of staff to
consumption can be as high as 20 litres
operate the wastewater treatment system.
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
The pros include the ability to control
treatment and recycling system.
costs through the in-house management
The beverage company worked with
of wastewater and the ability to recycle
CharTech Solutions, an Ontario-based
and reuse water on.
environmental solutions company, on the
A circular economy is an economic system
design and installation of a compact, effi-
aimed at eliminating waste and the con-
cient and automated system that incorpo-
tinual use of resources. This regenerative
rated innovative technologies including Bi-
approach is in contrast to the traditional
omedia in the Membrane Bioreactor (MBR)
linear economy, which has a ‘take, make,
to increase the capacity in a confined area.
dispose’ model of production.
The treated effluent from the MBR is then
The circular economy works best when
put through a two-stage reverse osmosis
both the fiscal and environmental benefits
system and disinfected to close the loop
are evaluated and in alignment. In some
and allow for water re-use.
cases, it may not currently make fiscal
The innovative closed loop wastewater
sense to invest in a system to recycle and
system is called System Hydrokleen.
reuse water at a brewery. The circum-
The company received a grant from The
stances depend on multiple factors,
Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and
including brewery size, location, water
Rural Affairs (OMAFRA) to offset over 50%
consumption levels, water intake costs,
of the project costs.
and the distribution of pollutants.
The beverage company was able to ex-
There are specific cases where the
pand operations because of the reduced
financial and environmental benefits align,
costs of water intake and discharge,
including circumstances where cost of
eliminating $150,000+ in surcharge costs.
water is prohibitive and/or the cost of
The closed-loop and fully automated
wastewater treatment is prohibitive. In
wastewater recycling system, the first of its
these cases, the feasibility of implement-
kind in North America, has been operating
ing a downstream closed loop wastewater
effectively and efficiently for over eight
system is favourable.
years. Closed loop water treatment and recy-
It is recommended that breweries explore the option of an on-site closed loop water
to simply flush down the drain, and devel-
cling is growing in popularity as breweries
recycling system to determine if it can
oping closed loop and circular systems is
evaluate the pros and cons of on-site
result in the reduction of pollution and
growing in popularity.
circular economy solutions. The decision to reduce, re-use and implement these
long-term cost savings. With the growing challenge of water supply in some juris-
In the case of one Ontario-based bever-
solutions strikes a balance between fiscal
dictions, and the challenge of wastewater
age company, the limited availability of
and environmental responsibility. Closed-
treatment, the focus on water recycling
water coupled with the high municipal
loop water recycling systems at breweries
has grown in popularity. Process waste-
charges for wastewater treatment prompt-
can cut water consumption, eliminate pol-
water is becoming too precious a resource
ed the decision for an on-site wastewater
lution, and save money in the long-term.
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BEST IN SHOW THE INCLUSIVE NATURE OF BREWERY TAPROOMS, ENVIRONMENTS TO RELAX AND UNWIND IN, ACTED AS SOMETHING OF A SAFE HAVEN FOR BILLY MADDEN IN HIS FORMER CAREER. NOW, AS CO-FOUNDER OF BLACK LAB BREWING IN TORONTO, ONTARIO, HIS OWN BREWERY IS PROVIDING FANS OF GREAT BEER AND EQUALLY-GREAT CANINE COMPANIONS A WELCOMING SPACE TO CALL THEIR VERY OWN.
brewersjournal.ca
D
id you go to Snoopy Paloo-
Black Lab Brewing was joined in the
za? If not, then unfortunately,
celebrations by Signal Brewing Company,
you missed out.
Rorschach Brewing Co, Blood Brothers
But you may ask, who is
Brewing, Sawdust City Brewery, Small
Snoopy? What is Snoopy
Pony Barrel Works and Revel Cider Co.
Palooza? Well, dear reader, Snoopy is
Not only that, a beer launched to mark the
the beloved mascot of Toronto’s premier
prestigious occasion, Snoopy’s Legacy
canine-friendly brewery. He puts the black
2019, went on to win best new beer in
lab in Eastern Avenue’s Black Lab Brewing
Ontario.
and last year, celebrated his 10th birthday. If you weren’t there to celebrate with
All in all, a successful and fitting way to
Snoopy himself, then you probably know
mark an important milestone, and the cul-
someone who was.
mination of Madden’s vision for the business a mere 10 months after its opening.
“It was a crazy, crazy day,” recalls Billy Madden, co-founder and co-owner of
But the brewery co-founder is also acutely
Ontario’s Black Lab Brewing.
aware that running such a business is the definition of a rollercoaster ride, and while
Beer was pouring, the sun was shining and
there will be highs there may also be lows.
patrons from Toronto and beyond were in a mood to party.
Before Black Lab Brewing came into being, Madden worked in the area of brain
Madden laughs: “There were lots of peo-
injury rehabilitation. This career involved
ple that couldn’t make it to the brewery so
helping those that had been in traffic acci-
I had to take Snoopy around town for meet
dents and other testing circumstances.
and greets. We didn’t arrive back until 4pm and I couldn’t believe my eyes; it was
“It was very trying. You would bring a lot
busier than our opening day.”
of it home with you,” he says. “So I found
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Craft breweries helped me unwind. I fell in love with the culture, and the people behind it,” Billy Madden, Black Lab Brewing
myself visiting craft breweries and their
If the bricks and mortar element of the
taprooms. They helped me unwind. I fell
brewery presented its own challenges, the
in love with the culture, and the people
equipment itself was a another hurdle to
behind it. These were the type of people I
overcome.
wanted to hang out with.” The contract for a 10HL brewhouse was Left Field Brewery on Wagstaff Drive and
signed in the spring of 2018. That April, the
Mascot Brewery of King St West were two
keys to the aforementioned unit were in
such establishments. As was Halo Brewery
hand. But a matter of days later, the paper-
on Wallace Avenue.
work for the brewhouse was not.
“I was burnt out by work. I was sitting at
“The company we worked with went
the bar at Halo Brewery and thought, you
bankrupt and we lost the 25% deposit as
know what, I would love to do some-
a result,” says Madden. “That was tough to
thing like this,” he remembers. “And Eric
take for a number of reasons but looking
(Portelance, Halo Brewery co-founder)
back, we scrambled and somehow made
told me I should, and he would show me
it work.”
how. From the business plan to expenses and licensing, he was so very welcom-
Madden would work directly with Kyle
ing. You just don’t find that in any other
Smith, the project manager from the shut-
industry.”
tered business, to complete the install and shipping process.
Madden would spend six months working on the business plan and, in his words,
“We managed to stay nearly on budget so
another six months trying to convince his
ultimately,” he says “things worked out ok….
wife Anne of the idea.
just.”
“It was a wild ride,” he says. “For a good
Fast-forward six months and thankfully
part of 2018 we would do full days in our
many of these other early issues had
regular jobs then work on the brewery side
dissipated and Black Lab Brewing officially
of things until the early hours.”
opened its doors on October 13, 2018. Its goals were clear.
Madden would go on to survey a good 50 possible locations for this brewery, and if
Madden explains: “We wanted to produce
he had any advice to pay forward to others
quality beers that they we are proud to
in his position it is this…
serve family and friends. A location where you and your canine companion can meet
“Luc (Lafontaine, owner of Godspeed
up with old friends and neighbours.
Brewery) told me early on that you need a good landlord, and you need to be in
“A place where you can sit back and enjoy
partnership with them,” he says. “I wish I
a truly exceptional beer while catching the
listened to him more!”
game. A gathering spot where we strive to know your name and your favourite beer. A
Madden rues the lack of concessions
brewery that wants to hear your feedback
offered by the landlord. Communication,
and encourages suggestions.”
shall we say, was lacking and the brewery operation has turned an empty shell into a
And it succeeded in doing just that.
fully-functioning building. “I sometimes struggle to find the words to
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SPRING 2020
“What was a wood-working shop lay emp-
express how I felt that day,” he smiles. “We
ty for two years before we came along.
were Toronto’s official dog-friendly brew-
We completely redid the electrics, the
ery, and it just turned out that every third
plumbing, the lot.”
house in the community has a dog!”
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
Black Lab Brewing has come a long way since its opening in 2018
brewersjournal.ca
SPRING 2020
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33
Connor and the team at Black Lab Brewing work on a 10hl brewhouse
The brewery sold out of beer that day and
“Connor is a guy that knows his beer,” he
for a venue with a maximum capacity of
adds.
110, it’s probably best not to do an official recount of the numbers present. A number
And it shows in the ongoing popularity of
smashed once more during last year’s
the beers he produces, especially in the
sell-out Snoopy Palooza.
challenging global landscape we all find ourselves this year.
Branding honouring Madden’s trusted friend Snoopy is front-and-centre of Black
“Our community showed incredible sup-
Lab Brewing but the canine proposition
port in buying our gift cards during the first
is far from a marketing fad. Far from it.
week of sales alone,” says Madden. “We
Madden just wanted somewhere to have
are very grateful for the support we have
a beer and where his dog was welcome.
received in this tough time.”
And it seems others do, too. Before the pandemic took hold, 2020 was “I once took a call from a couple who were
to be a year of growing the Black Lab
about to set off from nearly two hours
Brewing brand through increasing its pres-
away. They enquired about dogs and I as-
ence at beer festivals as well as broader
sured them they’d be welcome,” Madden
distribution of its beers, too.
says. “But no, that wasn’t the problem, they wanted to know if there were any dogs at
These are taxing times, for sure, and Mad-
the brewery for them to see!”
den is working hard to navigate them. But he also has his past experiences to draw
It’s handy then, that along with a welcom-
on, too.
ing environment, the team is producing quality beers to match.
“There have been ups and downs,” he explains. “Everything we experience at Black
Head brewer Connor Deuchars, Madden
Lab is new but I started out with no ex-
explains, is a “godsend” and a safe pair
pectations and you know what, I wouldn’t
of hands brewing beers from Dunkels to
change a thing.”
IPAs, Ambers, Dark Lagers and monthly sour releases.
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
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RUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE LIKE HOW CRAFT BEER SPUN OUT FROM BIG BEER SO, TOO, HAS CRAFT GIN SPUN OUT FROM THE BIG PLAYERS. FUTURE DISTILLERS – WITH A GOOD PORTION COMING UP THROUGH THE CRAFT BEER RANKS – REALISED THAT WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THEY ALREADY HAD, TO MAKE CRAFT GIN WAS WITHIN THEIR REACH. NOW, DISTILLERS ARE LOOKING AT RUM. COULD THIS BE THE NEW CRAFT SPIRIT? KIERAN AYLWARD REPORTS
T
en years ago if you ordered a
probably the most unbelievable part.
a distillation to produce a spirit – light or
gin, your choice was limited
But, that was then. Now craft gin distillers
heavy – from the fermented wash, and
between big players Bom-
are making unique, flavourful creations
finally sometimes aging the spirit in barrels
bay, Gordon’s and Tanqueray
with can stand on their own, as well as
and adjusting the colour with caramel.
who offered various quality
being part of creative cocktails.
And rum is seeing a resurgence, a bur-
levels of pretty much their same spirit. If
The question now is, can craft rum do as
geoning interest in rum production meth-
where you were drinking was more top
well as craft gin?
ods, and an appetite for rum consumption,
end, you’d expect to see maybe Hen-
In many ways, the two distilled beverages
and this it has in common with gin.
drick’s or Brockman there as well.
are as different as day and night. Usually
Indeed, in some instances, rum is outper-
In 1999 Johnny Depp stared in Roman
the skill in gin making is in the careful
forming gin. Paul Courtney, of Courtneys
Polanski’s The Ninth Gate, which would
manipulation of volatile botanicals, infus-
of Wimple in Devon, who makes gin and
have been forgotten except for endless
ing them into a neutral spirit that in the
imports and blends Guyanan Spiced Rum
repeats on the Horror Channel. But what
majority of cases, the craft distiller does
has noticed rum sales outstripping gin
most remember from the movie was
not produce but instead buys.
sales.
Depp’s character drink of choice being
With rum, the skill begins with selecting
“We are selling more than two bottles of
gin – straight up. In a movie that dealt with
refined cane sugar, usually molasses,
rum for every bottle of gin. We’ve found
summoning the Devil, the gin drinking was
nurturing a fermentation and performing
that gin is such a saturated market that its
brewersjournal.ca
SPRING 2020
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37
harder to get traction, but there is a grow-
The West Indies Rum & Spirits Producers
ing demand for rum, and supply hasn’t
Association (WIRSPA) says that rum is any
caught up”, says Courtney.
spirit distilled solely from the fermented
According to Kantar Worldpanel, the retail
sugars derived from the sugar cane plant
market for rum in the UK has shot up
and distilled below 96% alcohol by volume
almost eight percent in value of volumes
is rum. The sugars may be in the form of
that are up five percent.
fresh juice, cane syrup or molasses.
Nearly 80 percent of 25-to 34-year-old
There are also spirits which, though rum
spirit drinkers are partial to rum, accord-
by definition, are described as sugar cane
ing to a poll of over 1,400 consumers
spirits or by other synonyms. For example,
conducted exclusively for The Grocer
‘Cachaça’ the national spirit of Brazil, is
by Harris Interactive. This compares with
distilled from fermented sugar cane juice.
just half of those over-55. This trend with
But, says the WIRSPA, if the product is
youth should continue with 70 percent of
fermented from sugar cane juice, syrup or
drinkers 16-24 saying that they prefer rum.
molasses and distilled below 96 percent
These younger shoppers are prepared to
alcohol, it is rum, pure and simple, no mat-
go higher end than older generations.
ter what someone chooses to call it.
“We know that millennials are drinking
Back to the States, in searching through
less than their parents,” says Faith Holland,
TTB rule change proposals, there are no
head of category at Captain Morgan. “As
proposals for Jamaican, Guyanese or Mar-
young people are drinking less, they are
tinique rum standards for identity. There is only one to be found, Brazilian Cachaça.
seeking higher quality in their purchases. We’re finding that customers are drinking
source of sugar?
Would going to Brazil and discovering
less, but better.”
A drink made from sugar beets and
the secrets behind the often overlooked
Sarah Doyle, Bacardi Europe’s VP of mar-
artificial rum flavour in the Czech Repub-
Cachaça help solve the rum mystery?
keting, tells The Grocer that is an exciting
lic used to be called Tuzemsky Rum, but
time for rum, with the category undergo-
when the Republic joined the EU in 2004,
Call it what you will: Cachaça; Brazil-
ing a “massive premiumization” in the UK
“rum” had to be dropped from name and it
ian cachaça; Brazilian rum; or Brazilian
market. “There is a space for premium rum
is now called Tuzemak. The name change
cachaça rum; just don’t call its production
which consumers are really interested in,”
hasn’t seen to hurt sales with Czechs
small. With an annual production of over
she says.
spending three billion koruna (£104m) on
1.4 billion litres, it is the world’s third most
One thing that rum suffers from is a lack of
the drink last year, which translates to one
produced spirit, with most of it consumed
clear definition as to what is rum.
out of every four bottles of alcohol drink
in Brazil.
Rum is best known for being a product of
sold in the Czech Republic.
The reason cachaça is overlooked has a
the Caribbean region, as well as South and
In the USA, the Tax and Trade Bureau
lot to do with the structure of the industry,
Central America. But it is also produced
(TBB) regulates spirits and it defines
Rum is dominated by the large distillers,
in North America – including nearly 25 US
rum as: “An alcoholic distillate from the
with a business model based on export
states – Africa, Australia, Asia and Europe.
fermented juice of sugar cane, sugar cane
sales and big marketing budgets to make
Because in almost all cases ‘Rum’ is not
syrup, sugar cane molasses, or other
the model work.
geographically defined, such as Cognac,
sugar cane by-products, produced at
Cachaça, too, is also dominated by large
Bourbon or Scottish Whiskey, this makes
less than 190-proof in such manner that
producers who are responsible for over 70
it difficult to make international rules for
the distillate possesses the taste, aroma,
percent of production, but their main mar-
when the contents of a bottle are actually
and characteristics generally attributed to
ket is domestic. Artisan producers, which
rum, and in fact there are zero all-en-
rum, and bottled at not less than 80-proof;
are many in number and have an appetite
compassing regulations. In Jamaica sugar
and also includes mixtures solely of such
for export, are geographically fragmented
cannot be added to rum, in the EU it can.
distillates.
so find marketing outside their regional
In the EU, spices can be added to rum and
Sounds clear? It’s not. The TTB has
state – let alone outside of Brazil – is more
still be called “rum”, but you cannot add
recently allowed a Colorado distiller
difficult.
flavourings. Captain Morgan Spiced Rum
who uses sugar beets to call his product
As someone from the UK, you will find that
can be called rum; Captain Morgan Spiced
rum. Thrown into this mash are US terms
alambique (artisan) cachaça producers
Gold cannot.
such as Standards of Identity, which are
have a lot in common with the traditional
Almost all would say that rum has to
essentially legal descriptions for various
UK cider makers, both in how they process
be made from fermented sugar cane,
spirits as they apply to the US market, and
their own crops to add value, and use little
but what if you use sugar beets for your
Geographical Identification (GI).
or no raw materials from outside of their
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
farm. Both also harvest a ripe crop, low in starch and high in simple sugars, which is milled and pressed and then the juice fermented. Most – but not all – cidermakers stop there, but cachaca producers take one more step and distill the ferment. To learn more, Belmiro Ribeiro Da Silva Neto can help, and to meet him expect a six-hour drive heading northwest of Sao Paulo, to a part of Brazil that while beautiful, it well off the foreign tourist radar. Belmiro is a professor at FGV University in Sao Paulo while also owning and running Ribeiro Da Silva Cachaça from his farm in Sao Jose Do Rio Preto. “Cachaça does have an export market,” says Belmiro, “but it’s small, at around one percent of Brazil’s total production. Europe is the largest market taking 61 percent of the exports, with Germany on its own accounting for 35 percent. “The majority of these are exports are the cheap commercial brands, which are used to make Caipirinha, the famous Brazilian cocktail. These exports give people bad hangovers and ultimately undermine the
picked up Gold in the wood aged category
reputation of Alambique Cachaca.”
at the Great American Beer Festival.
Belmiro, like many of Brazils artisan
Most regions in Brazil have a large number
producers, has no interest in producing
of alambique cachaça producers, includ-
industrial cachaça, but he certainly has
ing the UNESCO world heritage site of
nothing against the Caipirinha, saying that
Paraty, in the state of Rio de Janeiro. When
you should try the cocktail with a good
the Brazilian goldrush erupted in 1696,
Cachaça Branca.
Paraty was the main port supporting the
His main interest is producing premium
extraction of gold from the neighbouring,
sipping cachaça. This is usually cachaça
and landlocked state of Minas Gerais and
that has been aged in wooden barrels to
produced their “cane brandy” for the min-
introduce colour and flavour and, depend-
ers and merchants.
ing on the wood, a level of sweetness.
Minas Gerais is still an important mining
Sometimes an oak barrel is used, but
area, though more for iron than gold these
Brazil has numerous hard woods – some
days, but it is also the place to be for any-
indigenous – which can also be used like
body interested in drinking craft cachaca.
Balsam, Jequitiba, Jatoba and Ambura-
The region is a vast, hot, rolling landscape
na. These hard woods give a completely
of mountains, cattle ranches, winding
unique character to aged cachaça, and
roads and in November, heavy rainclouds.
these new flavours are beginning to get
Its seemingly infinite forests are bright
noticed.
green, punctuated with the purple flowers
The flavour of these hardwoods haven’t
of the occasional Jacaranda tree. The land
escaped the attention either of craft
grows perfectly the varieties of sugarcane
brewers, with beers aged in the barrels
that yield the best cachaça. To give you an
beginning to appear in competitions. One
idea of how many cachaça distilleries are
example is 70K Amburana, a 13% ABV
in the region, Minas has more than 8,500
imperial milk stout from Against The Grain
registered distilleries, but it is thought that
Brewery in Louisville, Kentucky, which
only 15 percent of cachaça distilleries are
brewersjournal.ca
Far left: Jovelino Saldanha and his pot still Above left: Jovelino Saldanha’s nephew Pedro
SPRING 2020
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39
One thing that rum suffers from is a lack of clear definition as to what rum is,” Kieran Aylward
40
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SPRING 2020
registered.
As you now approach the new buildings,
Some cachaca distilleries welcome visi-
Jovelino stops to point out five water
tors, but to see process unembellished,
tanks, each containing 20,000 litres. This
you need an introduction to a man like
water, pumped from a natural spring on
Jovelino Saldanha, one of the owners
the farm, is a critical resource and is used
of D’Lourdes Cachaça. You travel with
for washing equipment, adjusting the
Jovelino to his family farm in Congonhas
brix (measurement of sugar content in an
do Norte in the State of Minas Gerais, a
aqueous solution) of the pressed cane
four-hour drive into the interior, north of
juice, and in huge quantities to chill the
the state capital Belo Horizonte.
distillate as it leaves the still.
Five years ago, the family decided to
The site is built into a hill, so Jovelino can
diversify into cachaça production and with
use gravity to move liquid for most of the
a plan ultimately to pursue an export mar-
process. From the unloading bay, where
ket, they invested heavily in a new copper
the cane is emptied from the tractors
alambique (still) and constructed new
ready for milling and pressing, there is a
buildings, hygienically finished and pur-
vantage point looking across the green
pose built for each stage of the process.
and yellow cane fields.
The season has just finished and the ma-
You ask Jovelino which cane varieties
chines are idle, but if the distilleries of Rio
he grows, expecting an exotic name and
are any indication, D’Lourdes would have
some romantic reasoning, but the cane
loudly hummed with the rolling motors of
varieties have names like RB-8675515 and
the sugarcane crusher and press, and the
are the ones recommended by the federal
warm, humid air would have been filled
university – it turns out that cane selection
with the aroma of engines, green sugar-
is taken very seriously.
cane, sweet distillate and smoke from the
The process at D’Lourdes and at most
steam boiler. The smell would change in
small distilleries in Brazil, is probably best
its ratio as you moved around the distillery.
described as “mechanically manual”.
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
From left: Papaya, Jubuticaba fruit and a pot still with water bath
an important distinction between it, and industrial cachaca produced in continuous column stills. Much of the craft distilling equipment used in Brazil and South America is made by Alambqiues Santa Efigenia, which has been in operation for over 70-years. When you drive to the factory, you find that building copper pot stills is as artisan of practice as producing cachaça. You arrive in Conselheiro Lafaiete, close to the factory in Itaverava, coincidently just Machines are in use, from the tractors to
sugarcane.
in time for its regular craft beer festival. It
harvest the cane, to the mill and press to
The still is copper and has four bubble
turns out that just as Brazil is quietly a craft
extract the juice, but most of the machin-
plates to refine the spirit in just one distilla-
distilling powerhouse, it is also a quiet
ery relies on a degree of skilled manpower
tion, and a dephlegmator, or pre-condens-
leader in craft brewing.
to make the process work. The mill, for
er, to control reflux. The vapour passes
Alambiques Santa Efigenia continues to
example needs to be fed by hand, and the
first through a coil in a large water bath
be a family run business, managed by
operator needs to know a dud cane when
before the final condenser. The water bath
the sons of the founder, and the stills are
they see one.
is designed to recover some of the heat
made in much the same way. TIG welding
After milling and pressing, the pure cane
used in distillation and to preheat the next
has taken the place of brazing, but the
juice runs through series of rectangular
batch, so like most of the cachaça making
copper sheets are still worked by hand.
troughs with alternate high and low gates
process at D’Lourdes, it is very efficient.
At the factory, a symphony of hammer
designed to trap both sinking impurities
After distillation, the cachaça can stay
on metal greets you as workers beat and
and floating impurities. From there, the
white (Branca) and if so will be aged for six
shape copper sheets into any geometry
juice runs into cylindrical tanks where
months in stainless steel or it can be aged
of pot or column that a craft distiller could
the brix and temperature are adjusted to
in wooden barrels. D’Lourdes uses Amer-
want. Cachaça stills are the most com-
ensure optimum conditions for the yeast,
ican oak for up to three years and blends
mon type for the factory to produce, and
which in the case of D’Lourdes, is the
the barrels for a consistent product.
usually consist of a pot still with a column
yeast naturally living in the cane. The juice
D’Lourdes has a good market locally, but
containing bubble plates and a dephleg-
then flows under gravity into the 2,000 litre
in an effort to expand, has partnered with
mator directly above and fired by steam
fermenting tanks, where the fermentation
Ledvick Wedzicha from Cachaça Festivals.
jacket or directly by an open fire below.
occurs at around 28 degrees C and when
Ledvick, a great fan of alambique cachaça,
Recently the demand for whiskey, gin and
complete – usually within 24 hours – the
helps D’Lourdes and other producers by
universal distillation sets has increased
wash is quickly distilled.
showing their products at festivals around
and Santa Efigenia are proud to have built
Steam powers the still and is produced
Europe.
the still that produced Brazils first single malt called 3 Lobos and has recently built
in a solid fuel boiler, which runs nearly entirely using “bagasse” – the dry fibrous
The term “alambique cachaça” refers to
gin making equipment for Pernod Ricard.
solid waste material from the pressed
the pot still used in its production and is
In 2019, Alambiques Santa Efigenia began
brewersjournal.ca
SPRING 2020
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41
a partnership with Vitikit Ltd from the UK, making all of their distillation systems and providing knowledge to European craft
From left: Dephlametor and Santa Efigenia Spray Ball.
rum, you could actually control the entire process here. The only question is: could you call it rum?
distillers. In the USA, Stoneyard Colorado Rum is Santa Efegenia also run, in partnership
billed as the state’s first “farm to flask” rum.
with the Federal Universities Biotechnolo-
With a similar growing season to that of
gy Department, a research and education
the many parts of the UK – in other words,
centre, where they can test new systems,
not suitable for sugarcane production – it
educate new master distillers and run
is very suitable for sugar beets.
courses in cachaça. It has recently added
Stoneyard Distillery was founded in 2014
gin production and gin recipe develop-
by two pilots, Jim Benson and Max Vogel-
ment to the cirriculum.
man, after they joined together to pursue
In October 2020, the centre plans to host a
larger production of Vogelman’s hobby
five-day course on the production of rum
garage-brewed rum.
and cachaça, beginning with sugarcane
So how does beet-sugar rum taste? Bot-
selection and cultivation, and covering
tled at 42% ABV, it’s clear with a distinc-
everything to barrel aging and, of course,
tively sweet marshmallow-like aroma and
consumption.
flavour, says Liquor.com
The course will be taught in English, and
“The style is very simple,” says Vogelman.
will be aimed at anyone in the distilling
Compared to spirits made from grain,
industry, including retailers, with an inter-
sugar cane or molasses, he describes the
est in the technical aspects of rum and
beet-sugar distillate as “clean” and differ-
cachaça production. The course will be
ent from the sticky-sweet flavour profile
run in partnership with Vitikit Ltd who will
many people associate with rum.
be offering places to anybody in the UK or
The distillery is making six different types
USA with an interest in distilling.
of sugar beet rum, which according to the
Sidebar:
US government, can legally be labelled
Norfolk rum
rum. Can the same thing be produced here?
While there are opportunities for UK dis-
The bigger question is: Why isn’t some-
tillers to work with rum, either by importing
one?
raw ingredients or adding value to existing
42
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
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THE IMPACT OF FILTRATION ON HOP INTENSITY CHALLENGING ASSUMPTIONS IS THE ASSUMPTION THAT STERILE FILTRATION STRIPS BEER OF ITS HOP AROMA WELL FOUNDED? OR IS THIS PERCEPTION NEEDLESSLY HOLDING SOME BREWERIES BACK IN ADOPTING MORE EFFICIENT NEW TECHNOLOGY? PARKER ANALYSES THE ISSUE.
W
ith the rise in
u Lactic acid bacteria (Pediococcus and
popularity of craft
Lactobacillus)
beers – often noted
u Wild yeast (Brettanomyces)
for their strong,
u Brewing yeast (Saccharomyces)
hoppy aromas – the
reorientation of the beer market around
If beer is to last more than a few days
premium products and distinctive brands
once packaged, then care must be taken
has continued apace.
to either completely eliminate or control
Smaller, independent breweries have risen
these spoilage organisms using microbial
to prominence, with their products often
control.
finding their way onto supermarket shelves or bar cellars thousands of miles from
More breweries are turning to cold
where they were originally brewed. Larger
stabilisation (sterile filtration) as a means of
breweries, in an effort to claw back market
ensuring the microbial stabilisation of beer.
share and reverse the trend of declining beer sales, have remodelled their brands
The sterile filtration process takes place in
to appeal to modern tastes and in many
a hygienic and sealed environment, which
cases, they have acquired popular craft
uses polyethersulphone (PES) membrane
breweries.
filter cartridges to remove spoilage organisms without affecting flavour and
REFERENCES
The battle to please the more
characteristics of beer.
sophisticated palate of today’s beer
In a landscape where many breweries are
drinker is raging. The emphasis is firmly on
exporting their beers to far flung markets,
taste.
a long shelf life is essential. Sterile filtration increases the shelf life of a product.
Although beer is acidic, alcoholic,
In addition, the filters used in sterile
1.Julio Romero Johnson, Brewlab, 2019
anaerobic and contains hop compounds
filtration minimise adsorption of desirable
Impact evaluation on hop intensity from
that act as preservatives, there are some
components and help to protect beer
filtration and pasteurisation.
microorganisms that can survive through
head retention.
2. Parker Bioscience Filtration, May 2018.
this and thrive on beer’s nutritionally rich
The Sterile Filtration of Beer - Keeping
properties.
up with Consumer Trends retrieved
These microorganisms can cause
from http://blog.parker.com/the-sterile-
spoilage of beer in the form of a haze
filtration-of-beer-keeping-up-with-
or sedimentation, a sour or rancid taste
embrace this process due to a perception
consumer-trends
and over-carbonation. The main spoilage
that hop aroma can be stripped from a
D
espite the advantages of sterile filtration, there is sometimes a reluctance among brewers to
culprits are:
brewersjournal.ca
SPRING 2020
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45
finished product if this method is used.
their preferred drinks.
or reject this assumption. If F is less than
Clearly, with ‘hoppy’ beers now
The tasters who participated in the test
Fcrit then there is no significant difference
extremely popular among consumers,
represented a wide spread of age groups,
between the samples.
it is not surprising that brewers could
with the highest percentage of tasters
The p value should be considered, if it
be concerned about this, especially in
(30%) in the 25-34 age range.
is high (greater than 0.05), the treatment
the burgeoning craft beer market. This evidence for this, however, is anecdotal.
effect is indistinguishable from random
R
variation.
esults were analysed using a single factor anova. (analysis of
In order to independently assess
Below: Summary of results from hop
variance), which in its simplest
aroma strength tests.
the impact of sterile filtration on hop
form is a test to determine whether
aromas and taste, Brewlab, the UK’s
population means are different. Anova
leading provider of brewery training and
tests assume the means are the same
Fig 1: The analysis did not show significant
analysis, was commissioned to find out if
and generate an F statistic used to accept
difference between samples.
consumers could perceive any differences between filtered and unfiltered and unpasteurised beer. The study was carried
HOP AROMA STRENGHT TEST - SUMMARY Count
Sum
Average
Variance
Column 1
74
299
4.0405
4.9161
ome 300l of a 4% pale and highly
Column 2
74
317
4.2838
4.5622
hopped beer with 60 EBUs was
Column 3
74
320
4.3243
5.1536
out through a blind taste test.
S
Groups
supplied by Darwin Brewery for
testing. The beer, once fermented and conditioned, was then bottled through a Moravec semiautomatic bottling and carbonating machine.
HOP AROMA STRENGHT TEST - ANOVA Source of variation
SS
df
MS
F
P-value
F crit
0.6999
3.0371
Unfiltered and unpasteurised beer was
Between groups
3.4865
2
1.7432
0.36
compared against beer filtered with a
Within groups
1068.1351
219
4.8773
11.05
5 micron filter and beer filtered with a 5
Total
1071.6216
221
6.45
micron filter and then a Parker Bevpor BR 0.45 micron filter. 30
The blind tasting was carried out in three different public houses, at Brewlab’s premises and in the sensory suite at
25
Newcastle University.
samples, presented in black plastic cups and to avoid bias towards the first samples – especially in bitterness – the samples were presented in four different random orders. The participants were asked to mark the samples 1 to 10 for:
FREQUENCY
A total of 74 testers tried four different
20
15
10
u Level of hop aroma strength u Hop taste
5
u Bitterness It was stated that 1 was to be marked as lower on the scale for these characteristics and 10 on the high end of their perception.
0 2
4
6
8
10
AROMA RANKING - 10 HIGHEST
Some 69% of the tasters were male and 31% female. 53% of the tasters stated that
UNFILTERED
5 MICRON
0.45 MICRON
ale was their preferred drink, rising to 65% if those who marked lager, ale and cider as
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Figure 1, Hop aroma strength testing results
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
S
imilar analysis was carried out on
HOP TASTE PERCEPTION TEST - SUMMARY
the hop taste perception data.
Groups
Right: Summary of results from
Column 1
Hop Taste Perception Test.
Count
Sum
Average
Variance
74
375
5.0676
4.9680
As with the aroma data, no significant
Column 2
74
419
5.6622
5.2679
difference was determined with respect to
Column 3
74
417
5.6351
4.4541
taste between the sample treatments.
HOP TASTE PERCEPTION TEST - ANOVA
B
elow right: Summary of results
Source of variation
SS
df
MS
F
P-value
F crit
Between groups
16.685
2
8.3423
1.70
0.1844
3.0371
the other analysis, no difference in
Within groups
1072.365
219
4.8966
bitterness was determined between the
Total
1089.050
221
from Bitterness Perception test. In keeping with the trends from
treatments.
BITTERNESS PERCEPTION TEST - SUMMARY
T
Column 1
74
425
5.7432
4.7140
The results did not indicate a conclusive
Column 2
74
475
6.4189
4.6029
preference of one sample over another.
Column 3
74
441.5
5.9662
5.9749
asters were also asked to select
Groups
their preference for each drink based on the options shown right.
Count
Sum
Average
Variance
If the dislike options are grouped into two
BITTERNESS PERCEPTION TEST - ANOVA Source of variation
SS
df
MS
F
P-value
F crit
Between groups
17.5428
2
8.7714
1.72
0.1813
3.0371
Within groups
1116.3007
219
5.0973
Total
1133.8435
221
30
25
25
FREQUENCY
FREQUENCY
20
15
10
20
15
10
5
5
0
0 2
4
6
8
10
TASTE RANKING - 10 HIGHEST UNFILTERED
5 MICRON
Figure 2, Hop taste strength testing results
brewersjournal.ca
0.45 MICRON
2
4
6
8
10
BITTERNESS RANKING - 10 HIGHEST UNFILTERED
0.45 MICRON
5 MICRON
Figure 3, Bitterness perception results
SPRING 2020
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47
50
(dislike very much and dislike slightly) and the like options are grouped into two (like very much and like slightly), all of the
40
samples show a higher percentage of the much” options. A review of the “like very much” data, in isolation, indicated greatest preference for 0.45-micron filtered beer. In addition to the 74 tasters, four tasters trained by Brewlab also blind tasted the
FREQUENCY
“slightly” options, and lower on the “very 30
20
samples. Once the Anova analysis had been completed on the data, no clear difference was found regarding the hop
10
intensity and bitterness between the samples. The results of this study, from Parker Bioscience Filtration, indicate that using
0
Strongly dislike
Slightly dislike
Indifferent
Slightly like
Strongly like
PREFERENCE RANKING
sterile filtration to ensure microbial stability of beer does not affect its hop intensity. Based on this study, we can conclude
UNFILTERED
5 MICRON
0.45 MICRON
that breweries can take advantage of the benefits of sterile filtration without the fear
Figure 4, Preference test results
of their products being stripped of their hop aromas. u
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
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AGAROSE GEL A SIMPLE SOLUTION WHETHER FOR POINT MUTATIONS OF CANCER CELLS IN DIAGNOSTICS OR HARMFUL BACTERIA IN BEER BREWING, THERE IS A NEW SOLUTION THAT IS SIMPLER AND FASTER THAN AGAROSE GEL. TEST STRIPS IDENTIFY AMPLICONS FROM PCR, LAMP AND RPA IN 15 INSTEAD OF 120 MINUTES, WITH SIGNIFICANTLY HIGHER SENSITIVITY, EXPLAINS DR. RALF DOSTATNI, CEO OF MILENIA BIOTEC
I
n research at universities, institutes, diagnostic companies and food manufacturers, agarose gel electrophoresis is often used as a molecular biological method to test for specific
nucleic acid strands. However, test preparation and execution are time-consuming and require expensive equipment. Furthermore, the ethidium bromide required for the test is toxic. As an alternative to agarose gel, Milenia Biotec GmbH offers economical rapid test strips based on the lateral flow technology. HybriDetect is a universal test strip usable by anyone as a basis for test development. It reliably detects amplicons from standard PCR, LAMP and RPA amplification methods with up to 100 x higher sensitivity, and does it in just 5 to 15 minutes. After amplifying the genetic sample for the In addition, the test can be performed at
test, among other things the running buffer
the point of care, and does not require
must first be prepared and the gel con-
specially trained personnel. HybriDetect’s
ditioned. “This prep work alone can take
versatility merits special mention - indi-
up to 45 minutes. The test itself, including
vidual buffers enable it to be optimised for
waiting period and documentation, adds
the application at hand.
at least another hour.
Electrophoresis using agarose gel has
The test also requires an electrophoresis
long been the primary laboratory method
chamber, UV table and the toxic colourant
of detecting specific nucleic acid strands
ethidium bromide. Furthermore, in terms
in samples. It requires trained personnel
of sensitivity, there can be problems with
and uses sometimes toxic reagents. In
very small genetic fragments.
addition, the agarose gel must be carefully
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prepared for the test, requiring expensive
Users are tending to make the smallest
equipment.
possible amplicons, partly to ensure the
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
TEST PRINCIPLE OF MILENIA HYBRIDETECT
TEST PRINCIPLE OF MILENIA HYBRIDETECT 2T
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51
Sample preparation
PCR
5 minutes
about 50 minutes
Apart from the obligatory amplification of the sample DNA by PCR or comparable method, the rapid test takes just 15 minutes including evaluation.
evaluation - interpretation - documentation
2 minutes
about 5 minutes
specificity of the test, and partly to shorten the reaction time. However, very small
Cuts time expenditure by almost 90
fragments do not adequately bind the col-
percent
ourant, so that the result is harder to identify visually than with larger fragments.”
One of this rapid test’s main advantages over agarose gel is the time savings,
HybriDetect reacts even with small frag-
alongside the lower equipment costs. All
ments
materials required are pipettes, pen, camera, the strip itself and a running buffer.
The rapid test from Milenia Biotec GmbH of Giessen provides a method with around
Unlike with agarose gel, primers with
100 fold higher sensitivity and that is able
labels (biotin, digoxigenin and FITC) are
to generate valid results even with small
needed, since the test strips show ampli-
genetic fragments in the 200 base range.
cons using the built-in labeled primers.
This rapid test is based on lateral flow
Overall, with lower sample volumes, the
technology.
costs for this rapid test are lower than with agarose gel because various devices are
The target gene in the sample is first
no longer needed, the strip itself is very
amplified with biotin and FITC, or digoxi-
low-cost, and there is no need for qualified
genin and FITC labeled primers, and then
lab personnel once the test has been
pipetted onto the HybriDetect test strip.
developed.
The strip is placed in the well of a microtiter plate to which 80 to 100 µl of a running
The lower time to reslut for the reaction
buffer were previously added.
on the strip is another advantage. It takes just five minutes. Including preparations
If amplicons have been formed, when the
like writing information on the test strip
sample travels through the test strip, a
and adding the buffer, the test takes only
band or bands will become visible on the
a quarter of an hour. This stands in stark
lower section, while a band will always
contrast to the two hours needed for gel
form on the upper section. This “control
electrophoresis.
band” shows that the test strip is working properly. HybriDetect comes in two
Rapid test configurable for many applica-
versions, for detecting one or two genes.
tions
For just one gene, the strip shows the test
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band and a control band. For two genes, if
Numerous scientific journals, which have
the second gene is present, the test strip
looked at the test from the medical point
will show an additional band for that gene.
of view as well as for areas like food pro-
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
cessing and agriculture, have identified a
replaced by the less complex isothermal
wide range of possible applications for this
recombinase polymerase amplification
lateral flow-based rapid test.
(RPA) method, which requires fewer instruments and can be performed by untrained
Our goal in developing the strip was to
personnel.
create a universal test. We wanted users
This clearly shows the suitability of the
to be able to individualise the test using
rapid test as a mobile point of care appli-
a supplied basic buffer, for example by
cation, since unlike with PCR there is no
adding glycerine to reduce the flow speed
need for a thermocycler for gene ampli-
of the strip and so increase the binding
fication before the test. HybriDetect can
probability of amplicons.
also be used with loop-mediated isothermal amplification (LAMP), which likewise
In a specific application at the University
requires no thermocycler.
of Pisa, the test was used to detect the Macrophomina phaseolina fungus in
With its mobility and low cost, the rapid
soil, which is harmful to cultivated plants.
test is a useful alternative to agarose gel
Researchers Susanna Pecchia and Daniele
and can be configured for a multitude of
Da Lio from the Department of Agriculture
applications. Whether for point mutations
concluded in their research that the sensi-
of cancer cells in diagnostics or harmful
tivity of this lateral flow-based rapid test is
bacteria in beer brewing, HybriDetect can
higher than that of gel electrophoresis.
be used for any genetic detection task.
Overleaf: Test strips identify amplicons from PCR, LAMP and RPA in 15 instead of 120 minutes, with significantly higher sensitivity
In an article published in 2018 in the Journal of Microbiological Methods, the team also noted that PCR can easily be
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CONTENTS
Homebrewer focus We place the spotlight on southern Ontario and some homebrewers that are using technology and continuous education in different ways to advance their processes and by extension their final product
58
Brew Sheets The recipes for Lindsay Barber’s “Easy IPA” and Matt Ballyk’s “Snake Oil” Saison Trois IPA courtesy of the brewers themselves
62
First Brews Those first brewdays are memorable events, for one reason or another. Jason Macrae recalls his own first brew
64
Homebrewing Reimagined
W
elcome to your latest insight into the wonderful world of homebrewing! We live in strange
times, so to those that have (re)discovered the joys of homebrew, like those prolific lockdown bakers across the globe, join us for the ride. And for the regulars here, welcome back! As you may have noticed, forgive the cliché, that this time out we’ve gone
Gadget Corner PLAATO is a young technology company known founded by two friends, both avid homebrewers. Here, we take a closer at some of their products in action
66
From Janes and Joes to all-out Pros As brewers, most of us have cut our teeth in the field of homebrewing. Here, Erica McOustra, head brewer at Ontario’s Steam Whistle shares her own experiences
70
bigger and better. In this issue we have articles on the latest homebrew technology, as well as the innovation and initiative that helps define the setups of many homebrewers across the land. Along with this, we have excellent brew sheets from these very homebrewers so you can try their recipes at...home. You’ll also find, perhaps, familiar experiences of homebrewers going out on their own for those memorable first brews and on the other end of the spectrum. how people like Erica McOustra went from homebrewing to become head brewer of a venerable institution like Steam Whistle.
70
From Janes and Jones to all-out Pros
So. if you are an industrious homebrewer and would like to be featured in an upcoming issue please direct message us a pic and a quick summary of your innovation on Instagram @brew4.0. Cheers!
Erica McOustra, head brewer at Ontario’s Steam Whistle shares her own home brewing experiences and how they’ve informed her professional life
brewersjournal.ca
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GO YOUR OWN WAY WE PLACE THE SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTHERN ONTARIO AND SOME HOMEBREWERS THAT ARE USING TECHNOLOGY AND CONTINUOUS EDUCATION IN DIFFERENT WAYS TO ADVANCE THEIR PROCESSES AND BY EXTENSION THEIR FINAL PRODUCT.
L
ittle did we know that just four
er. The beer was decent. The simplicity
editions ago, when we put
of all-grain brewing really surprised me.
together the 1st Homebrewers
I always thought brewing beer was this
Focus, there would be actual
difficult thing. Starting with the kit made
interest in it. Who would be
the process feel more accessible. Brewing
interested in a bunch of strangers and
went from this daunting task to a fun way
their cobbled together equipment striving
to spend a Sunday.
to make great beer for their friends and family right? At the time I just figured I
Trying to make the cleanest tasting beer
talked up the hobby so much that I was
possible really motivates me. It’s fun
even able to peak the interest of the
to DIY different improvements to my
Brewers Journal Canada Team and wore
brewing system and see how they affect
them all the way down to “What the heck.
the finish product. I’m a science geek so
Lets give it a shot. What’s the worst that
I really enjoy the process. I’m not far from
could happen?”. One calendar year later
Escarpment Labs in Guelph and have
they have experienced some real highs
visited them a few times. Seeing their work
and lows due to that fateful decision. The
with new (and some very old) yeast strains.
highs being that Canadian Homebrewers,
They’ve recently started releasing some
Professional Brewers, Industry Partners,
experimental strains to homebrewers (their
and Craft Beer Lovers of all walks of life
kveik ring program). It’s exciting to get to
have all offered positive feedback on what
work with these innovative products and
we have done so far. And the lows being….
see how they affect the finished beer. I’m
you guessed it, Brewers Journal is now
all about trying new ways to make good
officially stuck with me and Brew4.0.
beer.
This issue’s focus features a couple “Cool
I brew 5 gallon batches of beer on my gas
Cats and Kittens” from southern Ontar-
stove using the brew-in-a-bag method.
io that use technology and continuous
My Brewhouse equipment is limited to a
education in different ways to advance
10 gallon Spike kettle and a nylon brew
their processes and by extension their final
bag with handles. I have two SS Brewtech
product.
buckets and one SS Brewtech conical with heating/cooling. The cooling system is just a cooler full of cold water with a few
Lindsay Barber o o o o
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holes drilled in it for a pump and drain. I also have an insulated cooling jacket that can fit one of the buckets. I just rotate fro-
@breaking.beer
zen pop bottles filled with gel to maintain
Ontario
temperature.
Member of True Grist Homebrew Club 4 years Homebrewing
I live in a small space. My coffee table takes up more space than my brewing/
I started Homebrewing when a friend
cellaring equipment. Everything has to fit
purchased a Brooklyn Brew Shop all-grain
into a corner of my kitchen. My system was
kit for her boyfriend as a Christmas gift.
chosen partially out of necessity, but I like
They broke up before she had a chance
how it highlights that you can make good
to give him his present and she asked
beer without a backyard or a basement.
me if I wanted to try and brew it togeth-
The SS Brewtech buckets are stackable
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
engage us on social media
and brew-in-a-bag only requires one kettle. I started brewing one gallon batch-
needing to be compact with their
CH SETUP LIND SAY'S BREW TE
equipment choices. Lindsay has taken it to the next level with 3 fermenters, not forsaking
es after trying out a Brooklyn Brew Shop one gallon kit. I bottle condi-
temperature control, repurposing the
tioned everything. I then upgraded to 5
FastFerment as a bottling bucket, and
gallon batches after my sister gifted me a
still not taking up more real estate than
FastFerment for my birthday. At that point
day. It’s fun to involve other people and
her what I can only assume is a massive
bottle conditioning was too much of a has-
teach them about process.
coffee table. Well done.
Thoughts on Lindsay
Check Lindsay out on Instagram for Live
Lindsay is living proof that sometimes
Brew Days and other helpful hints for
started noticing too many odd flavours
breakups really are for the best! Yes I
homebrewers of all experience levels. I
in my beer. The FasrFerment is great for
realize she was not the one doing the
personally have never used a BIAB system
reusing yeast, but it’s difficult to regulate
dumping, or being dumped for that
and picked up a couple cool nuggets
temperature. That’s when I added the
matter, but silver linings people. She was
about how to navigate that style of system
stainless buckets and then a conical to im-
breakup adjacent, and we have all seen
ever given the chance, as well as some
prove temperature control and prevent off
friends go through breakups, of varying
that are transferable to my system. Also
flavours from fermentation temperatures
heart wrenching degrees, but how many
many of us know collecting homebrew
sle so we invested in a kegerator, 3 kegs, and CO2. Last summer I completed the Prud’homme Beer Sommelier course and
of them resulted in you gaining a life
equipment can quickly shift to a borderline
My favorite Homebrewing experience to
changing hobby like it has for Lindsay
obsession, so learning ways to keep
date was when I had a friend over to help
here. Lindsay doesnt only make great
adding toys while being considerate of
me brew. She works as a bartender at a
beer. Lindsay clearly knows what to do
spatial constraints, either out of necessity
local brewery. She had no idea how beer
with lemons.
or simply as a means to be able collect
was actually made and was fascinated
We’ve seen a pattern with regards to a
and house more equipment, is also
and so enthusiastic about the entire brew
decent amount of homebrewers that
helpful.
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59
Matt Ballyk o o o
@mattballyk Hamilton, Ontario Member of Hamilton Hozers, GTA
Brews and the Canadian Homebrewers Association
o
4 ½ years Homebrewing
I was first introduced to various beer styles through friends and while studying abroad. I helped out a friend during a brew day initially. This eventually led to an interest in the brewing process before deciding to take it on myself. I currently brew on the same setup I started with – direct fire kettle with a cooler mash tun. Since then, I’ve added a pump for moving liquid, whirlpool arm, and have both an immersion and counterflow plate chiller. I ferment in kegs, though I still have a few glass carboys I acquired when I started. Initially I was fermenting at ambient temperatures in my basement before purchasing a chest
swapping PIDs for a Raspberry Pi
freezer and a temperature controller.
controller as I’d like further automation and
I was writing my master’s thesis at the time
connectivity capabilities to allow for the
and spent my evenings preparing for its
collection of brew data.
defense, but was able to attend classes in
I don’t think there’s anything inherently
Niagara during the day. Ultimately, I didn't
unique about my equipment other than its ability to be stored away easily when not
I entered my first competition in 2016 at
continue in the program after completing
in use as it was mostly pieced together.
Hamilton’s Because Beer Homebrew
the first term as I took a position in
I’ve tried to keep things simple by using
Competition. I brewed a Hazy Sacch Trois
engineering shortly after finishing my post-
as many resources that I’ve had on hand
IPA which was selected first in the IPA
grad, but I met a lot of great people in the
as possible and have maintained a DIY
category out of nearly 80 entries. There
program and continue to stay in touch with
approach in advancing its design.
were a lot of entrants that year for that
the students in my class.
category as the prize was sponsored I machined a false bottom with the help of
by Collective Arts with a Pro/Am
For me the community and the sense
some colleagues at my school’s machine
collaboration (a possible record number
of challenge are the most satisfying
shop and used a water jet to cut the slits
of entrants for any single style category
attributes about Homebrewing. Both
for wort passage. It wasn't that successful
on the Canadian Homebrew Circuit). More
provide encouragement to advance
though and I had a few stuck sparges,
recently, I placed runner-up for a New
techniques and recipes, but the
but a good learning experience overall.
England style beer-wine hybrid grape ale
community can really help push your
I’ve since added a grain mill early on and
I entered into the 2019 Bellwoods Brewery
beer to the next level by sharing both
built a few magnetic stir plates for yeast
Homebrew Competition.
knowledge and feedback.
projects including a brew pump enclosure
I really enjoy any opportunity I have to
with a cooling fan and control switches.
brew with fellow homebrewers. I find
Thoughts on Matt
propagation along with some other small
Considering Matt’s competition
the community welcoming and eager to
accolades, its impressive that the core
When I first started, I needed something
share their knowledge and experience.
of his system has remained no different
that could be stored away easily when
The conversations are always unique and
from the average Jane/Joes entry to
not in use. I’m now in the process of
engaging. I also had the opportunity to
mid-range system. As you peel back the
converting to an all-electric system and
complete the first term of the Brewmaster
layers of his comments however there
currently designing a control panel,
Program at Niagara College.
is a true engineering spirit at their core.
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
KIT MATT 'S TRUSTED
Not only taking a run at whipping up
Matt rocketed up my “stuck on a desert
in each other's current focuses nor that
his own false bottom, learning from it
island” list after reading this. I’m guessing
they will not again in the future. Matt is
and applying that experience to future
he could MacGyver a contraption to either
in fact a Certified ranking BJCP (Beer
system improvements, but also a slew of
get us off the island, or have someone
Judge Certification Program) that I have
miscellaneous and intricate bolt-on builds
find us. And if that took some time, I’m
personally judged at least a couple
to his inventory.
equally sure he could cobble up some
competitions beside so his sensory is on
innovative brewing equipment to ensure
point, and Lindsay mentions that she has
Upgrading from a PID (Proportional-
we had something safe to drink, just like
made several miscellaneous upgrades
Integral-Derivative) Loop based controller
the Saison for farm hands was intended at
to her system therefore we know she is
to a Raspberry Pi (mini single board PC)
its inception, while we built the Gilligan’s
always looking at equipment hacks of
based controller to allow for more data
Island version of the Millennium Falcon.
various scales. Its exciting to see how the
collection and freedom to develop how the info is displayed and leveraged gives me goosebumps. Brew4.0 was conceived
In conclusion
different focuses are intertwined and that true improvement is an iterative process.
There was a common thread here that
with the aim of showing Homebrewers
may not have exactly leaped off the
Many thanks to Lindsay and Matt for their
that professional Food and Beverage
page. In this edition of Homebrewer:
initial participation and swift responses
level technology can be available to us
Focus both participants are currently
during the subsequent back and forths.
to improve our processes if we look hard
undertaking distinctively different
Be sure to check out the recipes they
enough. There are simple PLCs with the
approaches to improving their processes.
submitted on Page 62 and 63. If you are, or
lower I/O capacity out there, just as there
Lindsay has recently been focused on
you know, an industrious Homebrewer that
are low end HMIs, and plenty of Open-
sensory by achieving her Prud’Homme
is unique or innovative in their equipment
source Software to play with. If you are
Beer Sommelier certification, and Matt
or processes and are interested in being
interested in learning the ropes and doing
discusses a desire to focus on data
in a future edition of Focus: Homebrewing
it yourself there are tons of technology
acquisition to understand specific product
please reach out to me @brew4.0.
forward Homebrewers online more than
attributes by intersecting the final product
willing to help. Or you can do what I did
with specific process data points.
and barter your way into a custom control package.
This in itself infers some sensory acumen and its not to say they have not engaged
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61
TRY THEM YOURSELF... ”
A IP y s a E “ s ’ r e b r Lindsay Ba IPA”. this one “Easy At home we call fruity. ps makes it very ho g in er tt bi o N hop additions. BREW STATS
IBU: 19.7 SRM: 5.2
ze: 19 L (5.5 gal)
Batch Si 1.068 Estimated OG: 16 Estimated FG: 1.0 5.2% Estimated ABV:
ciency: 72% Brewhouse Effi in Boil Time: 60 m HOPS
pool Kohatu in Whirl & c ai os M a, tr 1 .5 of each Ci entation ring active ferm Same again du
FERMENTABLES IBU: 19.7 SRM: 5.2
ciency: 72% Brewhouse Effi in Boil Time: 60 m YEAST
Vermont Ale from
g tracking of
ere is no keepin
e recipe as th It’s such a simpl
bs
Escarpment La
WATER DETAILS and lf tap, half RO ha e us st ju I er For wat k pH. lorine and chec ch r fo t ea tr then and this y water profile It works with m t sciency. t definitely isn’ specific beer, bu
DETAILS MASH AND BOIL with n I brew I start he w so g ba aI use brew-in150-152 h temp around as m ep ke d an 7.5 gallons standard boil. If it were a e ut in m 60 a F. It’s with 4.5 gallons think mashing I d ho et m g in brew al of ging with the go ar sp r fo ns llo and 4 ish ga 7.5 for the boil. hitting around
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e some bitt that it could us ts en m m co d I’ve ha is. t of citrus as it hi e th e lik ly al citrus. I person
t of
’s just a little hi
terpoint so it erness as a coun
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
Matt Ballyk’s “S
nake Oil” Saison
Trois IPA
This is the recipe for my entry into the IPA category Competition in H at the 2016 Bec amilton. It was se ause Beer Homeb lected first out rew attracting more of ne ar ly 80 entrants than us entries that year ua , lik l due to the Pro/Am ely actually the third collaboration sp beer I ever brew on so rs ed hi ; p. th This is e first being a Sa IPA. I combined ison and the seco the two styles he nd a re Ne as w I wanted somethi England driven characte ng drier than a r. NEIPA with furthe r yeast I dug up the reci pe and its writte n as I brewed it in 2016 were to brew it ag , though I’d mak ain today. e a few adjustm ents if I Batch Size: 20.8 2 L (5.5 gal) Estimated OG: 1.0 59 Estimated FG: 1.0 08 Estimated ABV: 6.7% FERMENTABLES 8 lbs. Canadian 2-Row 1.5 lbs. Flaked Oa ts 1.5 lbs. Red Wheat 1 lb. Vienna
BREW STATS IBU: 52 SRM: 4 Brewhouse Effici ency: 72% Boil Time: 60 min
HOPS 0.5 oz. Warrior (P ellet, 15.0% AA) @ 60 min 2.0 oz. Cascade (Pellet, 5.5% AA ) @ 5 min 1.0 oz. Mosaic (P ellet, 12.25% AA ) @ 20 min whirlpool YEAST 1.0 oz. Nelson Sa uvin (Pellet, 12.0 % AA) @ 20 min Yeast Bay Saison w hi rl po ol Blend II and/or White Labs WLP 1.0 oz. Simcoe (P 644 Saccharom ellet, 13.0% AA) yces @ 20 min Bruxellensis Troi w hi rl po ol s 1.0 oz. Mosaic (P ellet, 12.25% AA ) @ 36 hours into WATER DETAILS active fermenta tion Hamilton city wat 1.0 oz. Nelson Sa er treated with uvin (Pellet, 12.0 % AA) @ 36 Campden Tablet ho ur s in to ac s and adjusted ti ve fe rm en tation to: Ca – 111, Mg – 9, 1.0 oz. Simcoe (P Na – 16, Cl – 125, el le t, 13 .0% AA) @ 36 ho SO – 75, urs into HCO – 85 active fermenta tion 1.0 oz. Mosaic (P ellet, 12.25% AA ) @ dry hop 3 MASH DETAILS days 152oF (66.7oC) for 1.0 oz. Nelson Sa 60 minutes with uvin (Pellet, 12.0 pH % AA) @ dry ho adjusted to 5.4 3 days p 1.0 oz. Simcoe (P ellet, 13.0% AA) @ dry hop 3 da In 2016 I was ferm ys enting at ambien t temps and bott Perhaps I’d try ling with priming using either Esca sugar. rpment Lab’s Ne w World Saison or Fruit Bomb Sa ison today. brewersjournal.ca
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63
MY FIRST BREW THOSE FIRST BREWDAYS ARE MEMORABLE EVENTS, FOR ONE REASON OR ANOTHER. HERE, JASON MACRAE RECALLS HIS OWN FIRST BREW.
A
ll Homebrewers have expe-
sion. Or so I thought. It turned out that he
rienced a version of the story
had some actual day job, earn a living,
below. Both daunting and
type of work to do. With misplaced faith,
beautiful at the same time,
he gave me some basic instructions,
the 1st Brewday is almost
and turned me loose on his hard piped,
always memorable, and not always for the
3 vessel, brewing equipment, while he
reasons one would think. By that I mean
observed with half an eye on me and half
there can be a perception that Homebrew-
an eye on the cans I brought to share.
ing is easy, so by extension the experience
To use an analogy, up to that point, I had
should be flawless and generates great
watched other people ride bicycles, and,
product. “My cousin can do it and he doesn’t
so informed, I was preparing to hop onto a
even have a beard” right? There are usually
Harley Davidson. I had my recipe – an ESB
some constants though First Brew stories
with a pumped-up gravity target – and I
and this is no different. A “friend” gently
had my primer on how his system worked,
nudging someone to get into the hobby/
plus a rudimentary understanding of the
obsession (usually motivated by wanting to
theory behind beermaking. What could go
even the playing field beer supply wise), an
wrong?
ill-timed process step, and an equipment malfunction of sorts. But isn’t it funny how
I cleaned the mash tun, per his instructions
the ends, almost always, justify the means?
(I thought), and so, I was ready to begin. Methodically, I transferred over my strike
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The defining quote from my first home-
water, leaving behind the sparge portion. I
brewing experience has to be as follows:
seized my milled grain; this was it, my first
“This is pretty good. It’s too bad we put so
brew… in went the barley. The last kernels
much of it into the hot liquor tank.”
shaken from the bag, I reached for a pad-
My friend and brewing mentor, had, weeks
dle to give it a stir… and spied the screen
earlier, dragged me from my armchair,
from the bottom of the mash tun, right
where I had been quarterbacking other
where I had put it, on top of the kettle.
people’s brewing. The conversation went
At that very moment, another homebrew-
along these lines:
ing buddy walked in. I recounted to him
“When are you are going to make beer?”
where I was so far. “Is this bad?”
“Uh, pretty soon, I guess. I need some
“Well……” he replied calmly. “It’s not good.”
equipment, it’s probably going to take
Humbled, I bailed the contents of the
some time, you know..…”
mash tun into a relatively clean bucket. We
“Okay cool, so I’m picking you up tomor-
unclogged the plumbing, I recleaned the
row and we’re going to a brewery supply
vessel, installed the screen, and then put
store.”
the mash back in. The heater brought the
With that, a week later I found myself
temperature back, the timer started, and
standing in his aptly named Garage-Ma-
once again, I was following in the foot-
Hall, preparing to embark upon my first
steps of the ancients, reveling in one of the
brew, under his strict and sage supervi-
gifts that yeast can confer upon mankind.
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
The transfer to the kettle, the sparging, it all seemed textbook. I was back on track. The boil completed, I began moving wort to a bucket… and got about 2 gallons less than expected. How the hell did that happen? A meticulous tracing of the fluid pathways offered no hint, but, eventually, we noticed the water in the hot liquor tank: it had a pronounced tint. “That’s never happened before”, said the equipment’s owner. “I’ve never brewed before” was my response. Not yet possessing a dispensing system (this has since been rectified), and forced to socially distance by a pandemic, I was tragically unable to midwife the birth of my first brew. My host dutifully nursed it through fermentation, cleaned my once virgin buckets, bottled it for me, and dropped it off. All I had left to do was wait. Wait and buy brewing equipment that is. Really, home brewing itself seems like a virus. It’s clearly contagious, relatively easy to transmit, and years of loving Craft Brewing have left me with stunningly low immunity. Finally, sampling day arrived. My brewing compatriot and I each cracked open a stubby bottle via a social media video app, reviewed the appearance, and took that first blessed sip. No baby is ugly in the eyes of their parent, but, I’m compelled to say that the recipe was good, and my tutors, even better. I was rewarded with a bracing hop bitterness, overlaid on a backbone of caramelly malt. It really is too bad we transferred that much of it into the hot liquor tank. The only logical solution is to brew it again.
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65
GADGET CORNER: PLAATO EDITION
P
Tech #1 Plaato Airlock
understandable considering both myself
two friends, both avid home-
“Designed to optically measure the
day, and that we have 2 kids living on a
brewers. In Norway back in
generated CO2 PLAATO monitors the
steady diet of Netflix and Youtube. But
2015 they used the crowd-
fermentation activity and estimates the
how did we get to attempt 3 you ask?
funding platform Kickstarter to get their
gravity and alcohol content of your brew.”
Attempt #1 was clearly the Archer and not
vision off the ground. With their 1st prod-
My homebrew buddies jealously refer to it
the Arrow when I pitched into a bucket
uct, “The Brewers Airlock Reinvented” they
as my “Bubble Counter”.
that had no gasket. A complete oversight
LAATO is a young technology company known founded by
and my wife are on video conferences all
reached their crowdfunding goal in seven
by me that allowed the CO2 being
hours and plateaued at 700% of goal in 30
released to escape though the lid and not
days. Their 2nd product, the Keg Scale,
Pros
fully focused though the airlock. I lost the
Non intrusive
1st day of data acquisition rendering the
hour. With over 13,000 units sold to date
Easy to configure
unit somewhat useless for this brew. We
they clearly have tapped into something
Sleek design
have all seen our most temperamental
special.
Easy to navigate app
ingredient take its time nibbling away
Exceptional data display
slowly at the sugars right after pitching
Affordable and comparable to competitive
and adversely we have seen it rush to the
tech price wise
table and stick its face in the bowl like
met its crowdfunding goal in less than an
Cons
a pig at a trough filled with sweet spent gains.
Conductivity can be an issue
Given that I used a bucket I couldn’t get
Active fermentation in lower to average
a good visual understanding of what my
head space can cause faults
initial fermentation was like so sealing
Lack of info regarding best practices
the lid with masking tape would have only given me an approximation with
Review
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no real idea of validity. I want to take full responsibility and call this missed
This is being written in early May 2020.
attempt a complete lack of my own
I cite that to point out we are still in the
common sense given my knowledge of
throes of the Global Pandemic that is
the fermentation process and a general
COVID19. Said pandemic has stretched
understanding of how the device interacts
many wifi infrastructures to their limits and
with said process, but I can’t help to feel
some days are certainly better than others
this could have been mitigated with some
in our house. This could have been the
“best use” messaging during the set-up
issue with my 3rd attempt.
video.
Yes you read that correctly. My most
I now know there are other resources
recent attempt was in fact my 3rd and
available on the website but I don’t feel
unfortunately based on low conductivity
it was made clear that I need to review
and my need to ferment on a different
multiple resources before getting started.
level and +/- 40’ from our router, it was
If anything this miss could be a product of
another fail. The wifi inconsistency is
set-up being a little too easy. Ah well. No
BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
harm done. Strong hopes persisted for the
vessel with the Airlock on it 10’ away from
next brew.
our router, as our dreaded bandwidth
My second attempt was in a glass carboy
was fickle to say the least, we couldn’t
with the bung and the Airlock taped
maintain a connection. Unfortunately
tight. Fool me once right? The yeast was
having 2 young kids, big dogs, a wife that
bringing its A game (or “Eh” game for my
is amazingly patient with your “hobby”
fellow Canadians) right off the bat and
(read: obsession) until it invades her living
I was getting some really cool process
room, housing it in our busiest room just
insights within hours. The family went to
could-n’t happen. Never mind this doesn’t
bed and I sat up and had a few pints of
even take into consideration the quality
homebrew with my favorite new toy while
impact via the temperature fluctuations on
working on recipes.
the main floor with decent sized windows
The next morning, before my eyes were
everywhere.
fully open the Plaato.IO app was, only to
Though the trials and tribulations I think
find that the data had not been collected
the pros still far outweigh the cons and
since approx 6 am. Upon investigation I
if anything I hope my story acts as a
could see that the very active fermentation
cautionary tale so interested parties enter
had risen and entered the device which I
into using this Red Dot Seal winning tech,
can only assume faulted the optic sensor.
which is no small feat in the automation/
This time I wanted to clean it up and try
instrumentation world, with eyes wide
to extrapolate the subsequent data to
open and a stronger idea of some best
compare the inferred gravity to the actual
use practices. I have it on good authority
gravity with my hydrometer as it had only
that the PLAATO Team is working on
been offline for a couple hours, but at this
videos, and other interactive methods, of
point I couldn’t get it reconnected and all
educating existing and potential patrons
was lost.
about their tech, and I personally hope
This brings us to attempt #3 which
that this includes not only enhancing the
was influenced by me reaching out on
set up experience, but a deeper dive
Instagram for some insight into best
into the Troubleshooting section of their
practices by experienced Plaato users. A
website.
student of Niagara Colleges Brewmaster and Brewery Operations Course, a course
UPDATE - As this goes to print I am 2 days
that I am proud to say I regularly guest
into the next attempt to use the tech and
lecture at, said he had similar expe-riences
so far so good, I check the app a ridiculous
but when he split his 5 USG batch over 2
amount of times a day, and am currently
primary fermenters instead of the 1 he got
right in love with my “Bubble Counter”.
better re-sults. So here I am, using 1 glass carboy and 2 Fermonsters to house my 10
.
USG brewlength. Now I could employ all my leanings to date, but low and behold unless I had the
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67
Tech #2 Plaato Keg Management System
Knowing what’s left in a keg has all the
that our electronics are accustomed to.
benefits you’d imagine from a planning,
A confusing point that I’d be remiss if I
“when do I need to keg and carb that next
didn’t bring up is conductivity. It is perfect.
batch”, and consumption, “the fellas are
I have never had an issue and it sits
“The PLAATO Keg is the world’s first non-
coming to watch the fights tonight so I
directly beside where I have had issues
invasive beer management system. It fits
bet-ter not Tap Out”, standpoints.
with my Airlock and this device is a fridge!
all Homebrew Kegs and lets you know
However a seemingly unspoken benefit
Clear-ly the 2 devices have different
how much beer you have left.”
that I gleam from the Scale is it can
wifi infrastructures, likely due to their
support moderation. If after the kids go
environments and real estate availa-ble,
to bed I decide to have a homebrew and
but they would do well in my opinion to
Very easy to set up both initially and
watch a movie with the Missus,
bridge that gap if possible.
tare’ing during keg swaps
I weigh the notifications on my smart
The other quasi-negative aspect, being
Shares the same base app as the airlock
watch against my plans for the next day.
delivery, speaks to the fact that PLAATO
Exceptional data display
Am I teach-ing a kids class of enter a
is essentially victim of their own success.
Non intrusive
random sport here _____? That growler
They are not yet a Fortune 500 company
Pour by pour notifications
esq volume was probably enough. The
so none of us should be surprised by the
Durable
wife is taking the kids to a work function
lack of a massive warehouse stocked to
Incredible accuracy
that I am not obligated to attend? Well a
the brim with products waiting to ship to
Affordable
growler volume plus a couple pints might
eager homebrewers.
Pros
not hurt anything.
Cons
Another auxiliary benefit that I really like
Very high sensitivity
is the temperature display on the app.
Delivery lead times
My fridge is getting long in the tooth and
Review
needs fairly regular defrosting due to ware of the seal. I use this as a way to remain
This is going to be the short and glowing
motivated to clean the taps and the lines
review we’d expect from a Homebrew
every +/- 2 months which i just did in early
focused Tech company like PLAATO. I do
May. It was cool to track the operation of
not want to just gloss over this point. They
the fridge from +/- 24*c down to its proper
were conceived by Homebrewers, with
setpoint.
fellow Homebrewers in mind, and clearly
One of the only negative things I can say
have an understanding of our wants and
is that tech was initially too sensitive but I
needs that can only come from getting
think a patch has been applied to remedy
their hands dirty (or burnt, or sticky, or....
that. I used to get notifications that 0.09 of
well.....just dirty as well I suppose). My
a litre was poured when my fridge kicked
home-brew resides in a simple residential
on but the amounts never tallied against
grade 2 tap beer fridge and I cant wait
the overall volume.
till these are restocked so I can buy the
We have to remember that in many
matching unit. A bird can not fly with just
European countries, such as the birthplace
one wing. Well maybe in circles, but I
of the scale being Norway, many floors are
digress.
concrete and are not used to the vibrations
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BREWERS JOURNAL CANADA
C
ool tech aside, what’s really special about PLAATO is how the insights are displayed through the app. It’s very easy to set up, very
easy to toggle between devices, and even shows insights across all live devices in the opening device selection screen. Being able to check on my brews, from anywhere, at any time (as long as I have my smartphone with me of course), and without having to build a pro-gram/platform to do so myself is one of PLAATO’s strongest selling features and it’s not directly connected to the individual devices. It’s clear to me that the PLAATO Team’s passion for brewing is legitimate. They love brewing and are motivated by positively impacting the final product of like minded Homebrewers across the world with their technology. I enjoy this fact very much as it aligns perfectly with what BREW4.0 stands for; Leveraging technology that most would only think is available at production level facilities to better the process we are passionate about. I see big things in this team’s future and look forward to following the development of new product(s) for homebrewers, and Craft Brewers alike, as they are currently working on a device that will bring the same level of the AIrlocks fermentation process tracking, through mobile devices, to Craft Brewers of all scales in the near future.
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69
FROM JANES AND JOES TO ALL-OUT PROS AS BREWERS, MOST OF US HAVE CUT OUR TEETH IN THE FIELD OF HOMEBREWING. HERE, ERICA MCOUSTRA, HEAD BREWER AT ONTARIO’S STEAM WHISTLE SHARES HER OWN EXPERIENCES.
Name: Erica McOustra
Location: Toronto, Ontario Brewery: Steam Whistle
Time in professional brewing: 13 years Job title: Head brewer
Daily duties: Ensuring brews at both our locations are on track and helping to solve any issues, sourcing raw materials and organizing trials for product development or improvement. I liaise with quality and participating in taste panel, looking for ways to be more efficient in our operations, as well as ensuring the brewing team members get safety and operational training. That, and just generally taking credit for all their hard work! Time as a home brewer: For just under five years
Were you a member of a Homebrew Club? Yes. In my early career it was Trash, then later on the Swansea Homebrew club What was your favourite aspect of homebrewing? Challenging yourself!
What made you go pro? Linking ingredients and process to the flavours in the final product. Knowing that the science and art components would continue to challenge for a lifetime. The final product being a social beverage with deep rooted history and a great community of people behind it is a bonus. Life as a home brewer: First all grain brew was outside in winter on some second hand equipment generously donated by a homebrew club member no longer using it. We managed to boil ok but only realized we had no way to chill it late in the process. We threw snow in the kettle - what a laughable idea now! I can’t recall how that batch turned out but it was all about doing it wrong and learning from mistakes back then. There is so much more information available now. What keeps you busy now? New brand development and understanding our beer better in order to make improvements on existing brands with results from our new GC (gas chromatograph).
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BREWE 4.0 SUPPLEMENT