The Horse Riders Directory 2022/23

Hello and welcome to the latest edition of The Horse Riders Directory, and its sister website www.horse-riders-directory.co.uk. Response has been phenomenal and we would like to welcome all our customers and contributors.

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“There is so much to consider when taking care of a horse in both summer & winter”

All Weathers

In the winter:

Good old British weather means we often have quite a diverse range of weather conditions throughout our winters, from gales and storms to heavy snow and driving rain.

In the summer:

If you usually stable at night and turn out in the daytime, it is definitely worth considering reversing the process in the height of summer, allowing for a cooler exercise period and shade / protection from the flies during the day.

Do ensure there is a field shelter or tree to provide shade if your horse is outside all day, and don’t forget to provide plenty of cool water.

If you are entering any competitions and need to travel, try to leave early in the morning to avoid making the horses travel later in the day when the sun is hottest, as horseboxes can get very hot indeed, especially in traffic.

Corral away from standing water, as midges and other biters breed rapidly in wet areas in the heat, which can exacerbate sweet itch if your horse is prone.

Like humans, horses can burn.  Patches of white are the most exposed skin, so use a suitable sun cream.  Don’t forget to use insecticide in the stables to try and keep the worst at bay, and keep the mucking out up to date, with the muckheap at a safe distance from the stable.

Feed is important – a thin horse will suffer more in the cold, so make sure your horse’s diet is adequate.

Access to water is equally important, as standing water may well freeze in extreme conditions, so this must be checked very regularly in case the surface has frozen.

Protection for the weather is all important.  Horses do grow an extra layer of hair in preparation, and the natural pattern and condition of this hair helps insulate and repel moisture rather effectively.  Nonetheless, different breeds or senior horses may need extra warmth, so rugging may be advised.  You will need to check this, as horses overheat very easily, and sweating beneath them can cause hair loss and skin problems, so do check under the rug on a daily basis.  There are different varieties available for warmth or to keep water out –speak to your equestrian supplier about your horse and his needs.

Shelter is also important.  In the summer it provides shade, but a strongly built shelter can also offer protection from strong wind and driving rain for outside horses.  It will need to be mucked out regularly, and if it is used often, then clean bedding should be provided.

Keeping your horse comfortable whatever the temperature is important for health and welfare, and there are things you can do to make it easier.

Feed Guide

Equine feed is big business, and making sure your horse is in tip top condition is something of an obsession for most owners. Horses are creatures of habit, and as they naturally spend a vast amount of time grazing and chewing fibre, they have a natural, psychological need to spend a large proportion of their time chewing. Cereal feed is much faster to chew than hay or grass. This means that good quality feed must be paired with a good amount of roughage to prevent behavioural issues such as weaving or biting and of course keep the horse out of distress. The need to spend some 75% of their time chewing also means roughage is essential to avoid colic which could strike on a cereal only diet.

Chewing also acts to stimulate saliva, which is an important part of the horse’s digestive process and helps to avoid choke, so the majority of most horses calories need to come from fibre rather than grain. The saliva also helps to neutralize stomach acid and avoid possible gastric ulcers. Naturally moving slowly and grazing all day doesn’t use a huge number of calories, and grazing on hay or pasture keeps roughage moving through the digestive tract at a steady rate. This digestion also produces heat, allowing the horse to properly regulate their body temperature.

Every horse has different requirements, depending on his size, what sort of work he does and how he is kept. You also need to think about how much grazing time he has, and the quality of the forage, grass or hay you are feeding. If your horse spends the majority of his time turned out on good, lush pasture, then the amount of hay required will be less, whereas a horse spending a lot of time in stables will need very much more. A horse who changes activity levels will also need feed adjusting; be sure to do this gradually as changes in feed routine can lead very quickly to digestive issues, such as colic. This means it is a good idea to make sure you buy regularly and in quantity, as suddenly running out of feed means rapid change in diet.

Grass provides dietary fluids, whereas hay and cereal are very dry, so make sure that if the horse cannot be turned out to pasture you are adding succulent foods to the feed, apples, carrots and sugar beets. Water should be available in a clean water bucket (scrub this daily) and make it available in a position or fixed where it can be easily reached but not kicked over. Dehydration can be dangerous, so keep an eye on intake, and monitor his droppings to make sure they are not dry and hard as this is a good sign of dehydration.

“Horses are creatures of habit; they naturally spenda vast amount of time grazing and chewing fibre”

HEALTHY HOOVES HEALTHY HOOVES

HEALTHY HOOVES

The hoof of the modern horse is a complex structure made of keratinized (or cornified) tissue which surrounds a single toe on each leg. A complex bone structure is surrounded by the sensitive laminae, a layer of tissue which carries the blood to all parts of the hoof. Beneath this is the digital cushion, a pad of rubbery tissue which is the heel of the hoof and provides a shock absorbing cushion.

The horny laminae is the hard layer of hoof which has no feeling and is attached at the white line. The cornified layer is supportive and protective of the more delicate inner structure as well as providing grip, and the entire hoof, being comprised of a single digit responsible for bearing much weight over a small area, is an absolutely vital component of your horse’s health. Routine as well as emergency care is needed to keep your horse in tip top condition and with full mobility.

Maintenance care:

• Pick feet out each day with a hoof pick, and finish with a stiff brush to remove any smaller debris

• Get to know what’s normal for your horse in terms of temperature and digital pulse; any changes will alert you to potential infection, punctures or other problems

• Check shoes or unshod hooves for signs of damage or wear, overgrown or misshapen feet and whether a farrier is required

• Apply proper hoof oil every day or so during the warmer months to avoid cracks

• Have your horses seen by a farrier every 4 – 6 weeks

• Watch for lameness at all times, especially after a farrier visiting, who will need to be recalled if so. Biotin supplements can be given to horses susceptible to grass or sand cracks

• Check foot balance. This means the angle of the front feet should be approx. 45-50 degrees from the ground, and the rear at 50-55 degrees.

• Shoes should fit properly with no gaps, and the clenches need to be around 1/3 of the way up the hoof wall from the floor, straight and flush.

Hoof problems:

Laminitis

Laminitis is generally accepted to be symptom of digestive issues, and is a swelling or inflammation of the soft laminae tissues which is painful and can strike at any time. It can be triggered by grain or grass over eating, infection or trauma. Water

The hoof is a complex structure made of keratinized tissue which surrounds a single toe on each leg

The hoof is a complex structure made of keratinized tissue which surrounds a single toe on each leg

soluble carbohydrates in high amounts can be present in particularly lush pasture, and are a common cause. Symptoms include obvious pain, a reluctance to move or weight bear at the front, heel to toe walk and an increased sesamoid pulse. Laminitis should be treated as an emergency and a vet should be called straight away. The horse should be moved off of grass and into shavings or cardboard while waiting attention.

Horses prone to laminitis should be on a properly regulated, high fibre diet, and need to be seen as regularly as necessary by your farrier.

Thrush

Horses can also be affected by thrush in the foot, a bacterial infection which can spread untreated to the delicate internal parts of the foot. It is usually caused by prolonged exposure to a damp environment such as wet fields or damp bedding. It cans cause lameness and a black, pungent discharge from the frog. The vet should be called out and will recommend treatment, which is usually regular scrubbing and the application of suitable eucalyptus oil or possible poulticing. Prevention is better than a cure, so make sure to keep your horses feet clean and scrubbed, with regular application of eucalyptus, especially in the winter months. If you field is prone to

waterlogging, ensure there is hard standing, and make sure bedding is dry and clean.

Seedy Toe

Seedy toe is a separation of the hoof at the white line, which starts at the toe and moves up the hoof wall as it grows, leaving a hole which becomes filled with dead tissue. It can happen due to laminitis or the toes becoming too long, and needs to be managed with regular farrier visits who will trim so that the hole can grow out.

Bruised Soles

Injury caused by impact or standing on a hard object can lead to bruising of the foot which can cause acute lameness and bruising. Movement should be restricted and standing should be soft, such as shavings or wood chip. Vets can prescribe anti inflammatories and should be called to check for any signs of possible infection or wounds.

Infection

Any lameness or obvious pain can be caused by infections in the foot, and the pus therein will need to be removed by the vet or farrier who will dig out and clean the infected area. This should then be poulticed to draw out any remaining infection before it begins to reach the leg. Your horse also may need antibiotics if the infection is severe.

Miniature Horses

The world of the miniature horse may be small, but it’s also charming. The British Miniature Horse Society characterizes the miniature as a perfectly scaled down version of a quality riding horse which measures less that 88cm at the withers. Height to weight ratio is not specific to breed but the perfect size equates to somewhere between Hack and Hunter. Although the size of an extremely small pony, miniatures retain their horse status with horse characteristics. These horses are not the result of dwarfism but are selectively bred, so that they are healthy and suitable for breeding themselves.

Their small stature is combined with a friendly, curious personality, and they make good companionship animals, even being utilised as guide or assistance animals, but miniatures do retain their essential nature and so need the usual equine treatment. Nutritionally they have the same requirements, and their veterinary and general welfare is as important and time consuming of that of a full sized horse.

To be registered as a miniature horse by the BMHS, a foal must be bred from BMHS registered parents, although adult horses can apply for registration by assessment.

Miniature horses with their friendly nature and small size are frequently owned by those who may not be able to handle a full size horse or pony, so many are with very young riders or those with disabilities. Their tiny stature and good nature also makes them excellent companion horses for full sized horses.

They also make good competitors, being quick to learn, and very much enjoy dressage style exercise and being the focus of attention.

The BHMS has some excellent advice for those new to the hobby, especially when it comes to purchasing your first miniature horse. As with any such purchase, do ask your vet to take a look at the animal, to ensure you really are buying a properly healthy horse. If you are a very good judge of horseflesh but new to owning a miniature, this is probably still a good idea. Although miniatures are horses, it is a great idea to do some research and find out exactly what makes a good miniature to own. Try to see both parents if buying a foal which should give you an idea of your foals potential size and appearance.

Otherwise, common sense prevails. Look for an animal which is clean, not lethargic or low spirited, with a glossy healthy coat, clear eyes and nose. Feet should be properly trimmed, and will give you an indication of how well looked after the horse has been.

There are some very good breeders registered with the BMHS, and it really does make sense to make your first purchase from someone with the expert knowledge to guide you in the right direction.

For more info see: The British Miniature Horse Societywww.bmhs.co.uk

"They have a friendly curious personality which makes them good companion animals

“A miniature horse is a perfectly scaled down version of a quality riding horse”

HORSE RIDING

When the time comes to make the final decision for your horse, pony,

pet or even farm

using someone who understands what a difficult time it is for you will greatly help ease the pain and distress.

will work with you to make things run as smoothly

All of the information in one place.

Dealing with the end of life of your horse, pony or donkey can be a complicated, confusing and emotional experience.

What do you need to arrange? What are the options and what is available in your area? Who do you need to contact? What are the legal requirements? How on earth do you find out?

The Equine End of Life Service gives equine owners all the information, guidance and costs to help them make the right choice, for them and for their animal.

Our pledge is that your horse, pony or donkey will be treated with dignity and respect, by everyone involved, right to the end.

We are to help you and our caring, knowledgeable team will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Contact a member of The Equine End of Life Service about the options available to you:

Grafton Equine Bereavement Services

Bishopstone, Weston Road, Moreton Pinkney, Nr Daventry, Northants. NN11 3SN

T: 07710 694338 - www.equinebereavementservices.co.uk

Email: mick.wills@equinebereavementservices.co.uk

Grafton Equine Bereavement Services is family run by people who understand what you are feeling during the difficult time of losing a companion. Be it a decision you have been trying to put off for a long time or an unexpected circumstance, Grafton Equine Bereavement Services will be here to help.

Unfortunately, with the best will in the world our companions will not live forever. When the time comes we will professionally and efficiently provide a caring end for your horse or pony whichever route you choose to take.

Call: 01547 528 654

E: info@fmcaine.com

Based in Mid Wales

FALLEN STOCK COLLECTIONS

Experts in fallen stock collection & disposal since 1919

Our fallen stock needs to be dealt with fast, safely and cost-effectively. That’s where we come in!

Whether it’s livestock, poultry or an equine carcass that needs collecting, we tailor our services to give you the most convenient and appropriate pick up possible.

So if you’re a farmer, breeder or grower in Shropshire, Herefordshire, Worcestershire, Powys or South Wales, and you haven’t tried us yet, you should see the comprehensive and cost-effective service we can offer you!

FARM WASTE RECYCLING

: 01793

www.farmxs.com

Highland

IN YOUR AREA

BERKSHIRE

WINDSOR

HORSE BOX REPAIRS JMB Horse Power UK Ltd 01753 850 916 www.jmbhorsepower.com

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE

ASKLEY GREEN HORSE BOX REPAIRS Mark Gregory Horsebox Services 07768 982 600

CAMBRIDGESHIRE

WISBECH

EQUINE CLOTHING SUPPLIES & FEED Smeeth Saddlery 01945 585 998 www.smeethsaddlery.co.uk

DERBYSHIRE

ALLESTREE SAFETY FENCES Gallagher Power Fence 02476 472 825 www.gallagher.eu

ASHBOURNE CEMETERY / CREMATORIUM / GREEN BURIALS The Equine End of Life Service 01335 320 014 / 07794337716 www.equine-endoflife.co.uk

DEVON

NEWTON ABBOT CEMETERY / CREMATORIUM / GREEN BURIALS Cremtor Ltd 01626 353 990 www.cremtor.co.uk

ESSEX

BLACK NOTLEY FALLEN STOCK W Martin & Son 01376 331 136 www.wmartinandson.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE RINGWOOD EQUESTRIAN SUPPLIES Aivly Country Store Limited 01425 472 341 www.aivly.co.uk

LANCASHIRE

BURNLEY HORSE SUPPLIES The Fussy Filly 01282 455 992 www.thefussyfilly.co.uk

LEICESTERSHIRE

LEICESTER HORSE SUPPLIES Back On Track-UK 07826 335 702 www.backontrack-uk.co.uk

LINCOLNSHIRE

GRANTHAM HORSE BEDDING Horsebedding.co.uk 01476 585 973 / 07831 504 372 www.horsebedding.co.uk

NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

DAVENTRY

EQUINE BEREAVEMENT SERVICES Grafton Equine Bereavement Services 07710 694 338 www.equinebereavementservices.co.uk

SCOTLAND INVERNESS-SHIRE RIDING HOLIDAYS Highland Trekking & Trail Riding 01456 415 323 www.highlandponytrekking.com

SOMERSET

TAUNTON HORSE TRANSPORTATION Comeytrowe Equestrian 01823 461 385 www.comeytrowe.co.uk

RIDING STABLES / CENTRES Comeytrowe Equestrian 01823 461 385 www.comeytrowe.co.uk

SUFFOLK

HALESWORTH SADDLERY Juddpurs Saddlery Ltd 01986 874 800 / 07880 555 863 www.juddpurssaddlery-eastanglia.co.uk

WALES

CEMETERY / CREMATORIUM / GREEN BURIALS Your Pet & Equine Heaven 01656 722 931 www.ypeh.co.uk POWYS FALLEN STOCK F.M Caine & Sons 01547 528 654 www.fmcaine.com

WEST SUSSEX

HORSHAM SAFETY FENCES Richard Covey Fencing 07853 879 270 www.richardcoveyfencing.co.uk

WEST YORKSHIRE WADSWORTH CREATIVE PLAY & LEARNING Crafty Ponies UK 01422 846 916 / 07508 205 619 www.craftyponies.co.uk

WILTSHIRE

ROYAL WOOTTON BASSETT FARM WASTE RECYCLING Farm XS Ltd 07905516159 www.farmxs.com

WORCESTERSHIRE

MALVERN HORSE SUPPLIES Natures Equine Ltd 01684 563 320 www.eazigrazer.co.uk NR. EVESHAM SAFETY FENCES Vale Gardens Ltd 01386 831 000 www.hipposafetyfence.co.uk

HIPPO SAFETY FENCE®

THE SAFEST FENCE FOR YOUR HORSES!

Birmingham Road, BADSEY, Worcestershire, WR11 7TW Tel: 01386 831000

Hippo Safety Fence® is a very safe fencing system.

A flexible tape is inserted in a holder & tensioned with a ratchet.

Hippo Safety Fence is a modern alternative to traditional wooden post & rail fencing. It is quick & easy to set up, whether it is for a permanent or

The tapes come in two colour or Grey) The tape a thickness of 1.5mm & looks just like a normal wooden fence.

Unlike a wooden fence the strapping does not have sharp edges, so will not cause injuries such as cuts, splinters or heavy bruising when you or your horse come into contact with it.

The Hippo Safety Fence can be used in several way s: An Alternative to post & rail fencing . It is ideal for creating paddocks, around a Horse walker or dressage arena, racecourses or creating a Lunging circle or Round pen . It provides extra visibility for wired fence

www.hipposafetyfence.co.uk

Safety Fence