RESTAURANT DoubleTree Bath By Hilton is revamped and serving up great food

DOUBLETREE BATH BY HILTON

Sarah Moolla takes a walk down memory lane to wine and dine but finds it all so very different

When was the last time you stayed not thought to step back into once, despite it being on at a city centre hotel? I can tell our doorstep. you the time I did, to the day. It Feeling all nostalgic and ready to fondly reminisce was 25 October 2003. Because, ‘isn’t that where your mate Ferret, who should never have dear reader, I married him. It been invited let’s be honest, got into an argument with was where myself, my husband, my cousin, who then ran to that loo over there to have a and our guests stayed following cry?’ But the DoubleTree Bath by Hilton isn’t playing ball. our Priston Mill wedding. It’s not letting us meander down memory lane at all. Yes,

At the time it was selected mainly for its location, the outside still has the same brutal Seventies structure, enabling our wedding party to see Bath at its best – the admittedly covered in a few fairy lights to soften its Hilton sits in heart of the city, alongside the canal, it’s at starkness, (we hear plans are afoot to do something about the top of Walcot Street, and near the train station. Oh, this ugly façade) but inside it’s a whole new world. Gone is and it had lots of reasonably priced corporate-style rooms, the perfunctory business-like check-in desk and in its place and best of all, a very late bar. A long list of convenience is swisher, stylish and definitely more welcoming lobby. points yes, but beauty, luxe, or great food, was not on there. The hotel, which was built in 1973, has been totally 17 years, two teen kids, a couple of house moves, and a overhauled. The work started September last year, and few job changes later, and we’re still hanging on in there, ended up taking 13 months due to lockdown. The aim so why not celebrate our anniversary at a place we have of the revamp I’m told is “to develop a new hotel brand

image within Bath.” One of the things that has always intrigued me is what the difference is between a Hilton and a DoubleTree Hilton. The PR tells me “DoubleTree is more boutique in style and feel, and famous for the DoubleTree Cookie arrival worldwide.” We get the world-famous DoubleTree cookie on check-in. I don’t eat mine – we’re about to have a three-course dinner here, so why would I? Any sane person would save it to savour later. ‘That was delicious!’ announces my husband as we step into the lift. Our king superior room with sofa bed is bright, airy and properly spacious. There’s everything you’d expect from a slightly more up the food chain stay – Espresso machine, 49-inch HDTV, bathrobes and slippers, but this is Bath and what you really get here, that is truly special and cannot be replicated any where else, is the views. It’s like we’re on holiday, not in our hometown, as we look out across the river to a twinkling twilight vista. We are told “I frantically drain the last of the delicious gin-soaked chocolatey crumbs into my mouth” the front rooms have views into the city, which are equally captivating.

It’s down to Emma’s Bar for a pre-dinner cocktail. Due to Covid the place is almost empty, which is heartbreaking. The staff are all so attentive and sweet, and chatting to them it’s evident they were looking forward to the unveiling of their new look Hilton, which would normally be almost fully booked most nights. Our lovely waiter recommends the Smoked Cocktail, one of their specials with brandy, rum, and bourbon. I opt for their Double Tree Cookie Cocktail, which is as the name suggests is their own cookie-inspired invention, made with fresh Kaffir lemon and lime grass gin. One sip tells me it’s utterly divine, but sickly sweet. I think to myself, any sane person might save it to consume as a pudding, as I frantically drain the last of the delicious gin-soaked chocolatey crumbs into my mouth.

We sit in a deep banquette-style booth in the restaurant. Now being honest at this point we aren’t expecting much from the food. Usually hotel restaurants invoke the spirit of Fawlty Towers and tomato soup at best, and Alan Partridge with a ‘side order of fanned out crisps’ at worst. The menu

“It’s like we’re on holiday, not in our hometown as we look out across the river to a twinkling twilight vista”

by chef Simon Stevens allows for no such nonsense. It has the broad-appeal staples, which means you could bring the kids and they would be happy (fish and chips, house burger) But there’s a lot of surprises in there too – spice crusted tofu with kumquat and radish salad; Nasi Goreng with satay sticks and Malaysian sambal. The husband goes traditional with the rare sirloin steak which is as bloody, and buttery as a rare steak should be. My Korean rainbow kimchi with glass noodle salad and spicy tofu delivers a hefty chilli kick. The portions are ginormous – and I apolgise for not being able to finish my desk but the staff laugh sympathetically, as they tell me the chef will not allow people to go hungry, and always serves big.

One of other reasons I can’t finish my main though, is the starter we had. It was a fish platter, and pretty exceptionally delicious – we devoured everything on the board – the calamari served with a pungent and tangy Aioli, piles of devilled crispy whitebait, fat almost feathery Asian crab cakes, and succulent garlic and chorizo prawns pan fried in white wine and butter. This to me is the real reason I’ll be back, and ordering a bottle of the pinotage to wash it down with. They’re perfect for sharing at £22 per platter, whether you linger over the whole night, or use as a starting point for your evening. Even while were stuffed and holding our bellies, we talked about when we’d be back to try the other options of bread; meat; cheese; and a charcuterie version. And we won’t be waiting for an anniversary to return this time. n

STAY AND DINING DETAILS

DoubleTree by Hilton Walcot Street, Bath BA1 5BJ; tel: 01225 463 411; www.dtbath@doubletreebyhilton.com Rooms 176 rooms, with prices starting at £136 Emma’s Bar & Restaurant Open week days 7am - 10pm and weekends 7am - 11pm Chef Simon Stevens Established: October 2020 Type of food served: Modern British/ Asian Influence Covers 112 Outdoor space Yes, a beautiful twinkly outdoor terrace Specialities: The kitchen has its own tandoori oven and smoker Starters £4.95 - £6.50 Mains £12.50 - £15.95 Desserts £4.95 - £6.50 Service and atmosphere Despite these Covid times of curfews and restrictions, the staff made our stay and meal a delight. There is no doubt when the guests return and normality resumes, this joint will be a buzzy, relaxed, and great place to hang, dine and drink. And in the meantime Bath residents should be making the most of this as an alternative and spacious meeting point What else? It certainly helps us locals when we’re asked, “Where do you recommend we stay in Bath?” – we can offer up the fair priced and decent suggestion of DoubleTree Bath.