CRUMBS Cotswolds NO. 48 CHRISTMAS 2016
! S A A little slice of foodie heaven M T S I R CH It’s
Let’s hope you have a cracker
You’ve been very naughty, baby turkey! If your father could see you now, he’d turn over in his gravy! Aww!
NO.48 CHRISTMAS 2016
I’LL DRINK
SATURLEY ! R NIGCHHUPTWFEITH VE COTSWOLDS STARS
TUR KEY (GO ON, GET SQUIFFY!)
WE CAT
GREG & CAZ crumbsm ag.com
TO THAT!
OUR ESSENTIAL BOOZE GUIDE
s T H E G I DL
GIFT ME UP!
LAST MINUTE PRESSIES FoR GLUTTONS AND GUZZLERS
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(AND OTHER BRILLIANT BIRDS)
Christmas
STUFFING! BIRDS ON A FIRE
FILLYOURFACE RECIPES FROM THE REGION’S BEST COOKS
KATRIONA MACGREGOR’S GROOVY GUINEA FOWL MARY BERRY’S ONE-POT PHEASANT AND (OF COURSE) WE TALK TURKEY
£3 WHERE SOLD
LEARNING TO FLY
BRINE IT, BASTE it, slather it with butter and cover it in bacon – the sheer number of turkey treatments you need to employ on Christmas Day, just to keep your bird juicy, make my head spin. (Or is that the mimosas?) And the above are just the ones beginning with B. But don’t we all just love the challenge? Find out, on p8, why year in/year out we bother. In my opinion, as long as you’ve shopped right, the oven’s big enough and the wine’s flowing freely, you’re most of the way there. My rellies might not agree, but that’s when I give them more wine. (Always making sure it’s a good ’un, selected by our best local merchants – you’ll find more on them on p53.) Yep, now’s the time to start stocking up your drinks cabinet – early Christmas callers may not expect a feed, but they will want a warming beverage, and with so many local producers and independent sellers in the region there’s a lot to raise a glass to. Elsewhere in the mag there are Crimbo recipes galore, from turkey (of course) on p9 to awesome ideas for your veg (p30), and a tasty terrine starter (p28). And, with the launch of the 2017 Michelin Guide, we’ve been talking to our most revered restaurants, each wowing the stealth judges to win accolades. Talking of the covert movement of foodies, as of next month I’ll be sliding across to edit our sister mag Crumbs Devon, and leaving you in the capable hands of new ed Emma Dance. Please make her welcome, and thanks for all the fun. Have a great month, and ‘Merry Christmas’ from me! APPLE
Charlie Lyon, Editor charlie.lyon@mediaclash.co.uk
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We invite you to Cotswold House Hotel and Spa to
share in the warmth and spirit of Christmas
Cotswold House has had a make-over, and now has a fine dining restaurant as well as an informal Bistro. This December we are open for festive dining and winter afternoon teas throughout the month. We are also open to non-residents for Christmas Day Lunch and our Black Tie New Year’s Eve Dinner in the Montrose Suite, with live music from local band Kinky Farnham. For full details about what’s on at Cotswold House Hotel and Spa this Christmas please visit our website www.cotswoldhouse.com and download a Christmas Brochure. The Square, Chipping Campden, GL55 6AN | Tel: 01386 840330 | www.cotswoldhouse.com
Table of Contents
NO.48 CHRISTMAS 2016
crumbsmag.com
EDITOR
CHARLIE LYON charlie.lyon@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR
MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR
TREVOR GILHAM DESIGN
VICKY MITCHARD ADVERTISING MANAGER
DANIELLE MORRIS danielle.morris@mediaclash.co.uk SALES EXECUTIVE
RYAN GOODMAN ryan.goodman@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER
SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER / PRODUCTION DESIGNER
CHRISTINA WEST christina.west@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version
large version
MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800 www.mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source.Inksarevegetable-based;printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month brandy butter fudge from Katie Crunch made us feel sooo good, then (after scoffing the whole slab before lunch) sooo wrong. (At what age does one learn restraint?)
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STARTERS
32 Joseph Morris is nuts about chocolate semifreddo
8 HERO INGREDIENT Mr Lurkey’s in town 10 OPENINGS ETC So much to eat, so little time 14 TRIO It’s hamper time
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
9 You put the stuffing in the turkey and eat ’em both up 20 A winning cornbread brekkie from Pinkmans 49 Christmas pud from Cheltenham’s The Daffodil
CHEF!
Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens
KITCHEN ARMOURY 37 COOKS WITH There’s a foodie powerhouse in Minchinhampton 42 THE WANT LIST Great gifts for grub-loving girls
24 Get to grips with guinea fowl, by Katriona MacGregor 26 Mary Berry does a mean pheasant casserole 28 Worth its weight is Jesse’s Bistro’s rabbit terrine 30 Good veg, done well, from the Riverford institution
MAINS 47 XMAS HAPPENINGS Staying in and going out in the run-up to Christmas 50 BOOK KEEPING Cotswolds chefs shining in the new Michelin Guide 53 XMAS BOOZE GUIDE We put our bottoms up with local bevvies and brews
AFTERS
New & notable restaurants, cafés, bars 62 Thyme’s Table 64 Cotswold House Hotel PLUS
66 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Favourite foodie hangouts from a MasterChef pro
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01793 762 364
www.thehighworth.com • info@thehighworth.com 1 Westrop, Highworth, Swindon SN6 7HJ
A visit to The Highworth will get you in the festive spirit this Christmas Now taking bookings for festive lunches and dinners throughout the run up to Christmas. Prices start from £15.95 per person
CREAM TEA
available 2.30pm-5pm, Monday-Saturday
A traditional country inn overlooking the Coln Valley 15 stunning rooms Cosy bar and restaurant serving great food Local ales, as well as ciders and lagers on tap Selection of high-quality wines and spirits Outside terrace and dining
“Tranquil village pub with a good menu ” THE NEW INN, COLN ST ALDWYNS
01285 750651
PARTY NIGHTS
www.new-inn.co.uk
STAY OVER
GIFT VOUCHERS
All our festive menus and further details on all of our events are available on our website www.thehighworth.com early booking is recommended to avoid disappointment. • Breakfast • Lunch • A La Carte Menu • Sunday Lunch • Afternoon Tea • Snacks • Cocktails • Bedrooms • Courtyard Garden • Function Rooms • Weddings • Events • Great home cooked food using local produce
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT
INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES
SOme bunny did gOOd CONGRATULATIONS TO THE Wild Rabbit in Kingham, Oxfordshire, which has been awarded its first Michelin star with executive chef Tim Allen at the helm. Tim joined The Wild Rabbit in 2016, and has worked like a demon this year putting his own stamp on the menus. His seasonal dishes celebrate everything that is great about local produce – after all, quality organic meat, fruit and vegetables are all available on the doorstep. Being located right at the heart of the Daylesford Estate, he’s got a fair pick. Highlights of the a la carte menu include: veal rump with autumn truffle, Cevenne onion, fricassee of tongue, capers and a madeira jus; and passion fruit soufflé with passion fruit sauce and iced coconut. He was praised by inspectors for “well-judged modern cooking that is packed with flavour and has plenty of appeal. Aside from the 40-day matured charcoal-grilled steak, this is restaurant food, with ingredients arranged in delicious layers of flavours.” Tim Allen was previously chef patron at Launceston Place in Kensington, which was awarded a Michelin star and four AA rosettes during his tenure. ✱ thewildrabbit.co.uk
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STARTERS
Hero Ingredients
TUrKey Is this fat fowl the best thing America ever gave us? Just possibly. (Well, after the hamburger, of course.) Pick a good ’un, cook it right, and you’ll put all the Christmas locusts into a sofa-bound food coma. (Of course, there’ll still be leftovers.)
For all that we love America, you’ve got to admit that there’s something vaguely disconcerting about their national symbol: the bald eagle, that arrogant, mad-eyed bird, clutching an olive branch in one talon and a bunch of arrows in the other. A national animal to say: “Hey, I’ll be your pal – but don’t expect me not to stab you in the back.” Ben Franklin, one of the founding fathers of the Unites States – and ‘the
first American’ – wasn’t impressed either. “He is a bird of bad moral character,” he wrote to his daughter of the eagle. “He does not get his living honestly. Besides, he is a rank coward. The turkey is, in comparison, a much more respectable bird, and withal a true original native of America. He is besides, though a little vain and silly, a bird of courage, and would not hesitate to attack a grenadier of the British
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guards who should presume to invade his farm yard with a red coat on.” Though no verifiable turkey-ongrenadier attacks are recorded, you have to admire the sentiment. Not that everyone loves the turkey. The ghost of everyone’s Christmases past contains at least one disappointing gobbler: the bird someone forgot to defrost in time; the bird you felt you had to keep checking and
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basting, dominating your day; the bird that ended up too dry; the bird with a mouthwateringly juicy breast but the thighs pink and underdone; the bird that was bigger than your first choice, its sorry carcass still hanging around, embarrassing you, when New Year comes to call… All too often, turkey sucks. But it doesn’t have to be this way. When wide-eyed, hungry Europeans first spotted the turkey they thought it was a version of the African guinea fowl – a beast imported in some numbers through Turkey, and so often known as simply the ‘turkey fowl’. It wasn’t long before the name stuck to this new North American bird too, despite it never actually venturing near the Bosphorus. But what a discovery! Turkey meat is ubiquitous these days because the birds grow so damn big, industrialised farming making the amount-of-meat-delivered-forcost-and-effort-put-in equation a highly attractive one. It’s been both a good thing (lean meat for all) and a disaster (bland meat and twizzlers ditto) at the same time. Not that eating turkey meat was new when we discovered them. The ancient Mesoamericans were aware of how good they were; so were the Aztecs. It was the Spanish who brought them back to Europe, alongside English explorers like Yorkshireman William Strickland – who had a ‘turkey-cock in his pride proper’ as his coat of arms as early as 1550. Though the early European colonists saw wild turkeys everywhere in America, it was actually fat, black European varieties – bred for size and colour on this side of the Atlantic – that were shipped back to the New World to be raised and eaten. Ben Franklin would have hated it, but the bird served up at the first ever Thanksgiving meal was most likely from Norfolk, and not an American critter at all.
high in protein, it tastes much like chicken – but there’s loads more of it. Tradition, of course, has us eating it at Christmas (or Thanksgiving), but it’s been a long time since most of us saved turkey for special occasions alone. It might still seem a tad early to be banging on about Christmas dinner, but it’s actually exactly now that you should be talking to your butcher about the big bird you plan to enjoy this year. (Of course, you might have bought yours already, then frozen it: a much better idea than buying a ready frozen turkey, which will have been put on ice right after slaughter, giving the flesh no time to mature.) In terms of breed, most turkeys you’ll find are assorted broad-breasted White varieties – pure meat machines, quick to grow, and ‘prettier’ as a carcass (seeing as the remains of their pale feathers are nigh-on invisible) – but the wise shopper looks elsewhere. Amongst the other breeds you’ll readily find are the Bronze, and the smaller, more gamey Black – but there are plenty of heritage rarities too. The Bourbon Red is full-flavoured, almost nutty; the Midget White is delicious, and won’t leave you with too much leftover meat; and the Slate Blue has relatively little meat but a high fat content. Happy hunting – any one of them will make this year a Christmas to properly remember.
In terms of the meat, of course, there’s lots to admire about turkey: it’s low in fat,
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ROAST TURKEY BREAST with a CRANBERRY and WALNUT STUFFING BY JAMES RAMSDEN ( SERVES 2 ) INGREDIENTS
1 large (550g) turkey breast 2 shallots, peeled and diced 1 garlic clove, crushed sprig of rosemary, leaves stripped from stem and roughly chopped 20g dried cranberries 200g sausage meat 20g walnuts, chopped grated zest of 1 small orange 20g breadcrumbs pinch of ground nutmeg METHOD
– Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. – Prepare the turkey breast by slicing it lengthways across the middle to create a pocket for the stuffing, being careful not to go right the way through. Place the turkey on a plate and set aside for later. – To prepare the stuffing, spray cooking mist or drizzle oil into a saucepan and add the shallots, garlic and chopped rosemary, then sauté for 5 minutes or until softened. Set aside and allow to cool in the saucepan. – Add the cranberries, sausage meat, chopped walnuts, orange zest, breadcrumbs and nutmeg to the cooled sautéed ingredients and season well. – Open up the pocket made in the turkey breast and fill with the prepared stuffing. Use butcher’s string to secure the stuffing within the turkey breast. Tie in approximately four places to ensure that the filling doesn’t spill out during cooking. – Spray again with the cooking mist, or drizzle with oil, and place in the oven. Roast for 45 minutes, basting with the cooking mist and/or cooking juices half way through cooking for a perfectly crisp, golden finish. – Cover the turkey with foil and allow to stand for 10 minutes before slicing to serve.
S T A R T E R S
Openings Etc COMING IN THREES There’s more celebrating to be done this month, this time in Burford where The Lamb Inn has gained a third AA rosette for its culinary excellence. Passing two mystery visits with flying colours, it joins just 197 other restaurants in the country with this number of rosettes. Head chef Peter Galeski joined The Lamb Inn in February 2015, and has been working hard with his team to achieve the award. ✱ cotswold-innshotels.co.uk/ the-lamb-inn
CHOPSTICKS AT THE READY
ON THE RISE
We’re crying out for more good Asian restaurants in Cheltenham, and it seems former MasterChef Andrew Kojima has answered our prayers with a new Japanese pop-up restaurant and takeaway. It’s called Koj, and it’s on Regent Street. Here you’ll find chefs serving up “interesting but casual Japanese food” for lunch (Monday to Sunday, 12-3pm), and dinner (Wednesday to Saturday, 5.30-11.30pm). There’ll be miso-roasted aubergine, grilled sardines with ponzu, KFC (Koj Fried Chicken), and more. Lunch will be Koj’s version of ‘poké bowls’ – rice topped with fish, chicken or vegetables and sauce.
Give three floury cheers to young baker Dominic Salter, who has just scooped the title of Baker of the Year 2016. Dominic, of Salt Bakehouse and The Sandwich Box in Cheltenham, was presented with the award last month at a swanky Park Lane do. He says: “Winning this award means so much to me, and the business. I am just totally over the moon. You can’t get much better than Baker of the Year!” He’s the youngest person ever to win the award. ✱ twitter.com/saltbakehouse
✱ kojpopup.com
In the diary... (10 Dec) AS THE ROMANS DO Instagram sensation Eleonora Galasso cooks an Italian feast with Thyme’s winter harvest. ✱ thyme.co.uk (Until 16 Dec) CHRISTMAS AT HIGHGROVE There’s Champagne and shopping Weds to Sat each week at the private estate. Pick up unique gifts while quaffing in style. ✱ highgrovegardens.com (15-16 Dec) ROSS & ROSS XMAS POP UP This year Ross & Ross will be serving warm winter dishes by the fire at Oxleaze Barn. Tickets cost £40. ✱ rossandrossfood.co.uk
Chard leaves stuffed with harrisa wild rice @gluts_gluttony
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@thepointerbrill mackerel two ways #greatbritishmenu crumbsmag.com
S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S
New Kid kid on on the the Block block New When did you begin cooking? At the age of 21, in India.
doorstep. I’m sourcing from as many local suppliers as possible.
Have you got any fond foodie memories from your childhood? Helping my dad with prep for big banquets when I was at school. My dad is a very good cook, and he used to cook for big festivals.
What are your favourite ingredients at the moment? Probably Bibury trout and fallow deer venison saddle.
Is he the one that inspired your cooking, then? Yes. He never trained professionally, but loved cooking and taught me the importance of foods and their flavours. So, then, what was your very first job in the industry? I was kitchen trainee at one of India’s finest old colonial hotels – the five-star Oberoi Cecil Hotel, Shimla. What’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? Working in the cruise industry. You are cooking for 5,000 people, working with around 200 chefs. It was a tough job, but I came away a much stronger person, and chef. What’s been your proudest career achievement? Receiving two rosettes of my own at my last place – Darlington Hall. Good work! How would you describe your style of cooking? Simple, with a modern twist. I aim to work with the seasons as much as possible, taking advantage of the fabulous local produce we have.
NEW ORDER This here’s Anuj Thakur, head chef at the revamped Tewkesbury Park Hotel
What attracted you to Tewkesbury Park, then? Besides the location and surroundings, the obvious transformation that the hotel is undergoing. It’s a very exciting time to be part of Tewkesbury Park. Always good! How have you approached the menu? As a chef, I’m very spoilt by the great local produce we have on our
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Do you grow anything yourself? Not yet, but we have a plan to get our own herb and micro leaves garden on site shortly. How about some favourite suppliers you use for the restaurant? DJ Perk & Sons for local fruit and vegetables, Cotswold Dairy for dairy products, Cotswold Gold Rapeseed Oil, Kevin Mace Butchers from Tewkesbury, and New Wave Fisheries for sustainable fish and shellfish… What kind of meals do you cook at home, mostly? Curry and rice, braised beef, or lamb stew – or I just try to empty my cupboard and create something out of it. Basically, very simple comfort food. What piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without? My Wusthof knife. What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? Crab, lamb and strawberry textures at Pollen Street Social in London – it’s Jason Atherton’s restaurant. Favourite cookery book? In this case I might sound old fashioned, but my all-time best cook book is the latest edition of Larousse. Foodie heroes? Gordon Ramsay, Michelle Roux Jnr, Marcus Wareing. And, finally, what’s your current favourite flavour combination? Apple and blackberries. ✱ tewkesburypark.co.uk
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S T A R T E R S
Trio HAMPING IT UP Be it in a box or a basket, these fine Cotswolds companies are bringing together all that’s best for Christmas
LOVE LOCAL FOR FOODIES
All Love Local for Foodies hampers are full of artisan Cotswold award-winning produce – all local and delicious. They’re perfect if you live in the Cotswolds, just happen to love the Cotswolds, or know someone else who does. Previous happy customers from last year included Sir Lenny Henry and Lisa Makin. The Sloe Cotswold Christmas Hamper costs £49.99 and includes, among many others, the following tasty goodies: Truffle Hunter black truffle tagliatelle, Beus Bakehouse handmade shortbread, Artisan Kitchen sloe gin and blackberry jam, Godsells artisan Gloucestershire cheese, Corinium craft ale and Faithfulls handmade kirsch and cherry Christmas pudding. Mmm. Or, this year, you can sit with a glass of your favourite tipple and make your own hamper online. Choose from cheeses, salami, craft drinks and more. ✱ lovelocalforfoodies.co.uk
HAMPTONS HAMPERS
With Hamptons’ special ‘create your own hamper’ service you can mix and match goodies to create the perfect hamper for any friend or family member. Fill a hamper with your favourite fine food and drink and choose how to package it up. Then, you can pop along to collect your hamper from the shop in Stow-onthe-Wold. Or, if your rellies live far away,
Clockwise from top: all the meat you can muster from Coombe Farm Organic; Cotswolds finest produce from Love Local for Foodies; and ‘mix and match’ finery from Hamptons
that’s no problem either – Hamptons offers a 24 hour-service across the UK. The hampers are available throughout the year, so make great birthday gifts too, and they’re quick and easy to order online from the website. The food hampers are presented in open wicker display baskets or in traditional lidded picnic baskets, or, if you prefer, a nice gift box. ✱ hamptons-hampers.co.uk
COOMBE FARM ORGANIC
Here’s a Christmas special that you can treat yourself and the family to: with just a few clicks on Coombe Farm Organic’s
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website you can have Christmas dinner sorted, stress free. From organic birds (turkey, goose, duck) to roasting joints and bacon, gammon, pigs in blankets, organic salmon, stuffings, condiments, jellies, Christmas puds and cakes, they’re all there for you to pick and choose to create the ultimate spread and have it delivered directly to your door. All the produce is top-quality, organic and free-range with excellent provenance. There’s a minimum order of £20 + £3.95 delivery, but anything over £80 is delivered for free. Coombe Farm Organic delivers next day, all over the country. ✱ coombefarmorganic.co.uk
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NOW TAKING BOOKINGS FOR CHRISTMAS PARTIES 2 courses £17.50 3 courses £21.50 CELEBRATE NEW YEAR’S EVE WITH US
We have live music at 10pm from Matt Belmont and fizz for all at midnight! Food served 6pm-9.30pm. Book now to avoid dissapointment. Carriages at 2am.
Experience the joy of Christmas at the Lygon Arms! This Christmas, share in the joy of togetherness with Family and Friends at the Lygon Arms Hotel. From the heart of Broadway, indulge in our lavish Holiday Feasts and Winter-themed Tapas sharing platters, or enjoy fine dining and delicious wines with colleagues and friends this festive season. Take a trip to Broadway’s local Christmas Market for a spot of last-minute shopping, and enjoy a glass of Mulled Wine or a relaxing candlelit dinner on your return. Gather family, friends and colleagues and join us for a relaxed festive get-together to celebrate another fantastic year! *The Broadway Christmas Market takes place on 25th November and 2nd December.
Lygon Arms, High Street, Broadway, Worcestershire WR12 7DU | T: 01386 852 255 | E: reservations@lygonarmshotel.co.uk | W: www.lygonarmshotel.co.uk
S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S
Askthe yourManager waiter Ask Who knows the menu best? Who makes the greatest impact on your experience? Who knows the menu best? Who makes the greatest impact on your experience? Front-of-house is your friend! Front-of-house is your friend!
Hi, Oliver! How long have you been working at Purslane, then? I joined the team in June, so have been here since the start of the summer.
popular – it sells out weeks in advance, and is the hottest foodie ticket in town. This is the perfect way to taste the very best of Purslane, all in one evening.
And where did you work before? Just across town, at The Fire Station in Cheltenham.
What are the bestselling drinks? The Maverick Breechens Barossa Shiraz – layers of sweet black fruit blended with dark spices and flashes of oak. With a soft, clean and dry finish, it’s a simply stunning wine.
So, what’s the best thing about being here? The freshness of the produce on the menu. It’s such a pleasure to serve dishes showcasing the finest, locally sourced ingredients that are in tune with the seasons. What’s the most challenging part of the job? The stairs coming down from the kitchen into the restaurant! Our kitchen is on the first floor, so bringing dishes down can be a bit of a rollercoaster ride. What skills have you learnt since coming here? Working here has really broadened my horizons when it comes to the variety of seafood available – I’m now a dab hand at knowing my monkfish from my mollusks, and cod from crustacea!
HE’S YOUR MAN This, dear readers, is Oliver Brooks, restaurant supervisor at the wonderful Purslane in Cheltenham
What sort of customers do you get? A wide spectrum of customers walk through our door – some have dined with us before, whereas others may be trying the best fresh-cooked sea food Cheltenham has to offer for the very first time. What makes the restaurant a special place to visit? Purslane is a small, independent, family-run restaurant and this shines through in the unique atmosphere and ambience of the place. What are the bestselling dishes? Our monthly tasting menu is always
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If you were a customer today, what would you order? Definitely the ‘plateau de fruit de mer’ with Cornish native lobster, Salcombe Bay crab, Dorset pearl oysters, mussels and clams. What do you think makes great customer service? For me, customer service is wrapped up in three elements – communication is key, knowledge is power, and always go the extra mile. Where have you visited locally where the customer service was excellent? Recently I dined at The Suffolk Kitchen with friends, and the quality of service was second to none. Where do you like to eat on your days off? With my family I love going to The House In The Tree. They serve great food, and the children love the adventure playground. What do you cook at home? Tender cooked lamb shank with creamed mash and purple sprouting broccoli. ✱ purslane-restaurant.co.uk
THIS COULD BE YOU! Contact us at: simon.hawkins@mediaclash.co.uk crumbsmag.com
REDEVELOPED • REFURBISHED • REDISCOVERED
Coffees from 8.30am weekdays • Lunch & Dinner daily • Group Dining • Food on Sundays 12 – 8pm • Accommodation High Street, Meysey Hampton, Gloucestershire, GL7 5JT • 01285 850164 • masonsatmeysey@gmail.com
www.masonsarmsmeyseyhampton.com
BOOK NOW FOR CHRISTMAS
“This masterpiece of a pub manages to make the ordinary extraordinary… beer nirvana indeed…yes the Red Lion even has a fine crowd to add to its collection of collections” The Telegraph Weekend (Adrian Tierney Jones)
MEETINGS AND PRIVATE DINING We have the perfect space available for you whether you are looking for a meeting or private family dinner for 16 people or for a group of up to 40 friends for a celebratory lunch. Just ask us about what we have available. If you are looking for something a little larger contact us about using our beautiful pub garden for a marquee whether it be for a wedding, christening or family get together.
NOW BREWING OUR OWN BEER ON SITE AT THE HOP KETTLE BREWERY CRICKLADE
For more information on this please contact us.
WEDDINGS • CHRISTENINGS • PARTIES MEETINGS • SPECIAL OCCASIONS
Multi Award Winning Freehouse 74 High Street, Cricklade, Wiltshire SN6 6DD
E: info@theredlioncricklade.co.uk
www.theredlioncricklade.co.uk
T: 01793 750776
S T A R T E R S
The freshest, most inspirational cookbooks of the month
GENNARO’S ITALIAN BAKERY Gennaro Contaldo Pavilion, £20
Best known as Jamie Oliver’s mentor, Gennaro Contaldo has always had a passion for baking. This beautifully illustrated book features 120 recipes for classic Italian breads and baked goods, from focaccia to crostate, savoury to sweet. In the book, Contaldo gives away his secret tips on making the perfect dough to create wonderful Italian breads for all occasions, including his famous focaccia recipe, pizzette, biscuits and cakes. There are recipes for Italian savoury pies that use seasonal ingredients, a section of rustic pane dolce (sweet breads) in addition to delicious crostate (sweet pastry tarts), biscuits and traditional cakes. As well as the foolproof pizza dough, we particularly liked the chocolate chip and ricotta loaf cake, and the chocolate-covered Christmas biscuits.
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THE BRISTOL COOK BOOK
SALT IS ESSENTIAL
MADE IN THE OFFICE
This year marks the 50th since Shaun Hill started cooking professionally, and he’s still rattling the pots and pans at the highest level at The Walnut Tree near Abergavenny. Hill is one of Britain’s true food heroes, a culinary giant who avoids TV shows and celebrity, preferring to simply cook for his loyal army of customers. In this book, Hill shares his decades of expertise, revisiting old classics such as coq au vin, roast goose with red cabbage and fish soup, rump of lamb with potato and olive cakes, and pheasant pudding with sage and bacon, plus his legendary chocolate cake. Hill’s as opinionated and humorous as ever here, and this is a book packed with sound cooking techniques and wisdom. It really is an instant classic from a true master.
Architect Rachel Maylor got the idea for this quirky but brilliant little book when she moved to London and found herself in need of office lunch inspiration. Bored of grabbing sandwiches from her local supermarket or eating sugar-laden granola bars, she started to make her own simple, healthy meals in the office kitchen. Not only was it much cheaper and healthier, Maylor’s energy levels improved. This book features 70 quick and healthy dishes you can rustle up during your break with little more than the kettle, toaster and microwave that will invariably form your office kitchen kit. These include turkey and pak choi noodle bowl, toasted berry brioche, and tuna and butterbean salad with lemon dressing. With this book, al desko lunches need never be dreary again.
Shaun Hill Kyle Books, £25
Rachel Maylor Frances Lincoln, £12.99
Meze Publishing, £14.95
The 15th in a series of regional guides by Sheffield’s Meze Publishing, The Bristol Cook Book brings together recipes from some of the best restaurants, cafés, delis, pubs and producers in the city. With an introduction by Bristol-born MasterChef finalist Dean Edwards, the book features 45 recipes from places like Lido, Pinkmans Bakery, Prego, Rosemarino and Spicer + Cole, and is a delicious snapshot of Bristol’s currently thriving food and drink scene. Highlights include the overnight lamb shoulder with slow-cooked cauliflower, roasted sweet peppers and salsa verde from Westbury Park restaurant Manna; pork loin with smoked pig’s cheek and clams from Source Food Hall and Café; and the orange and Earl Grey cake from Ahh Toots in St Nicholas Market.
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S T A R T E R S FROM
The Bristol Cook Book (Meze Publishing, £14.95)
BRINDISA: THE TRUE FOOD OF SPAIN Monika Linton 4th Estate, £29.95
Clocking in at more than 540 pages, this hefty tome from Monika Linton is one of the most definitive books on Spanish food for years. Linton founded and still runs the food importing business Brindisa, which supplies artisan Spanish products to most of the UK’s best restaurants. What she doesn’t know about Spain, its food and its culture probably isn’t worth knowing. The book covers classic regional recipes and tapas dishes, and provides invaluable information and tips about sourcing the very best ingredients from the finest food producers. The recipes are more home cooking than restaurant in style – think rice with chicken, rabbit and paprika; chickpeas with chorizo; slowcooked oxtail in red wine and chocolate; and orange and almond cake. It's a mouthwatering celebration of all things Spanish.
PINKMANS BAKERY CORNBREAD with SMOKED SALMON and AVOCADO SALSA (SERVES 4)
THIS IS A very popular dish on our breakfast menu. We think the flavours and colours combine beautifully here, although the cornbread is a wonderfully versatile partner, also combining well with eggs, bacon and making delicious savoury muffins to be eaten on their own. We bake the cornbread in loaf tins and slice it, but, for home cooking, we have amended it here to make six 100g muffins, as muffin tins and cases are more common in the home kitchen. The cornbread can be baked the day before and refreshed in the oven, or the mix can be made in advance and baked off in the morning. INGREDIENTS
For the cornbread: 150g plain flour 1 tbsp baking powder 1 tbsp caster sugar 4g salt 110g fine polenta
70g mature Cheddar, grated 4 spring onions, finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2 large eggs 60ml olive oil 80ml honey 250g buttermilk For the avocado salsa: 1 ripe avocado 1 tomato, deseeded and finely chopped red onion, finely chopped (to taste) parsley, finely chopped (to taste) lemon, juice and zest (to taste) virgin olive oil (to taste) To serve: smoked salmon crème fraîche METHOD
– Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5 and lightly grease 6 muffin cases.
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– Start the cornbread: combine the dry ingredients with the grated cheese, onion and chilli. In another bowl, lightly whisk the eggs and combine with the olive oil, honey and buttermilk. Then, using a whisk, incorporate the wet ingredients into the dry, and mix to a smooth paste. Chill for at least an hour to let the polenta absorb some of the moisture. – Spoon the mixture into the muffin cases and bake for 25 minutes, or until golden and cooked through. – Meanwhile, make the salsa. Dice the avocado and combine it with the finely chopped tomato, red onion, parsley, lemon zest, juice, a few drops of virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. – To serve, cut the cornbread muffin on a slant and pile on the avocado salsa. Top with smoked salmon (the best you can afford), and serve with a side of crème fraîche.
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Create your own customised luxury hamper We sell a wide variety of exclusive luxury food hampers and a large selection of fine food at our shop in Stow-on-the-Wold. Can’t find the exact hamper you’re looking for? You can build and create your very own from our assortment of fine food. Perfect for a more personal thoughtful gift. Either order online or visit us at our shop where your hamper can be made while you wait, or we can arrange delivery for you. 1 Digbeth Street, Stow-on-the-Wold, Cheltenham GL54 1BN • Email: sales@hamptons-hampers.co.uk • Tel: 01451 831733
www.hamptons-hampers.co.uk
Now you can create your own unique Cotswold Artisan Foodie Gifts online Handmade, award winning Cotswold produce presented in contemporary gift boxes and delivered throughout the UK. Bought and loved by the editor of Cotswold Life. Sir Lenny Henry and Lisa Makin have bought many of our Deck The Halls hampers.
Our foodie gifts delight people who live in the Cotswolds, and love the Cotswolds.
www.lovelocalforfoodies.co.uk
Chef! WHAT TO COOK, AND HOW TO COOK IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF THE REGION’S BEST CHEFS
Highlights FLIPPING THE BIRD
Guinea fowl that’s easy peasy Page 24
No one likes a lonely turkey – chestnut sprouts, fennel carrots and braised cabbage make great company (p30)
POT LUCK
Mary Berry’s got a dinner you can nail in one Page 26
RABBITING ON A Crimbo terrine to get cracking on now Page 28
Plus
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4 WIBBLING WONDERS from the Blue Boar (p32)
Chef!
In a od? o m l w o f Another corker of a recipe from local gal Katriona MacGregor – this crowd pleaser will banish any winter blues Katriona MacGregor used to be a food writer for the The Telegraph but, lucky for us, she waved tally ho to the capital and moved to the Cotswolds, taking up a post at Daylesford and contributing regular recipes to Crumbs. She also runs the top blog katrionaskitchen.com, and now has a spankingly brilliant book, from which this recipe is taken. She says about this recipe: “Earthy, rich and reminiscent of late autumn evenings, a version of this dish used to be a favourite on my dinner party menus. It uses guinea fowl breasts, but you could use a whole jointed bird instead if you prefer – just be sure to check the legs are cooked all the way through before serving.”
GUINEA FOWL with MARSALA, LENTILS and SPINACH (SERVES 4)
✱ This delicious recipe is taken from Healthy Speedy Suppers by Katriona MacGregor (Hardback, £16.99), published by Nourish Books; photography by Andrew Crowley
INGREDIENTS
150g puy lentils 200g spinach leaves 4 guinea fowl breasts (with skin) 120g fresh shitake mushrooms, roughly chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 4 sprigs fresh thyme 120ml Marsala 170ml chicken stock oil or butter for frying
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METHOD
– Tip the lentils into a saucepan and cover with water. Add a little salt, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 10-15 minutes until they’re cooked through, but still retain a little bite. – Wash the spinach leaves and place them in another pan over a moderate heat. Cover with a lid and cook until the leaves have wilted. Tip into a colander and drain well, squeezing out as much moisture as you can. – Heat a little oil in a large casserole dish. Season the guinea fowl breasts with salt and pepper and, once the oil is hot, add them to the pan skin-side down. Cook for 5 minutes until the skin has turned golden brown. Turn them over and cook for another minute. Remove from the pan and keep to one side. – Add a little more oil or butter to the same pan and fry the mushrooms, garlic and thyme for 5 minutes, until softened. – Tip the cooked lentils into the pan, stir well and then pour in the Marsala. Simmer for 2 minutes until the liquid has been absorbed and then add the stock and cooked spinach. Stir well and season before returning the guinea fowl breasts to the pan, pushing them down gently into the lentils. – Place a lid on the pan and simmer gently for 10 minutes. – Check the guinea fowl is cooked all the way through before serving.
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h i g g h n i y lF
Chef!
We love a good bit of pheasant in the Cotswolds, and so, it seems, does Mary Berry, who’s got a stonker of a one-pot here‌
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Thank god Bake Off is over and we can put the flour away, shake off the sugar slump and start spending time cooking delicious, wholesome meals again. When it comes to cooking, Mary Berry likes to dabble in both the sweet and the savoury, and here’s one of the finest examples from her new book, Family Sunday Lunches. With the rellies coming a-knocking all over the Christmas period, this is something that’s easy to knock up and will feed a whole host of hungry mouths. It’s excellent, too, for using up older birds – all that casseroling will make them good and tender again.
PHEASANT CASSEROLE WITH THYME AND PRUNES (SERVES 6)
INGREDIENTS
2 whole pheasants 250g smoked bacon lardons 2 medium onions, sliced 2 sticks celery, sliced 2 medium carrots, sliced 200ml red wine 6 large pitted prunes, chopped 25g plain flour 200ml cold game or chicken stock 6 sprigs of thyme, plus extra to garnish 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly METHOD
– Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ gas mark 4. – Place a large flameproof casserole over a high heat and brown the pheasants on all sides until golden. Remove from the pan and set aside. – Add the bacon to the pan and fry over a high heat until crisp. Add the vegetables and fry for a few more minutes. Add the red wine and prunes and boil for a couple of minutes. – Measure the flour into a bowl and mix with the cold stock until smooth, and then pour into the pan. Bring the sauce
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to the boil, stirring, until thickened. – Add the thyme sprigs and redcurrant jelly and season with salt and pepper. Return the pheasants to the pan, cover and transfer to the preheated oven for about 1 hour. – Remove the pan from the oven and check to see if the breasts are cooked. If so, carve them from the carcasses and then return the carcasses to the pan. Continue to cook the legs for a further 30 minutes, or until tender. – Carve the legs from the carcasses and return them and the breasts to the pan. Heat through for a few minutes until the breasts are piping hot and then serve garnished with some thyme. THERE’S MORE FROM MARY…
– The casserole can be made up to a day ahead. Reheat the sauce with the breasts and legs in a moderate oven and serve hot. Not suitable for freezing. – To cook in the AGA, bring to the boil, cover and transfer to the simmering oven for 2 hours.
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✱ This recipe was taken from Family Sunday Lunches by Mary Berry, published by Headline, £25
Chef!
For starters‌
Get your guests going with this king of terrines from David Witnall at Jesse’s Bistro
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If there’s ever a time to put in the groundwork when it comes to a meal, it’s Christmas. And although this terrine takes a couple of days to prepare, it’s totally worth every minute. It’s been created by chef David Witnall from Jesse’s Bistro in Cirencester, and mixes the traditional idea with modern ingredients for a special Christmas starter. David has been with Jesse’s Bistro on Black Jack Street since 2009 and has grown with the business, becoming head chef in 2013. He’s got an excellent cheffing pedigree, having worked under Ian Mansfield at The Forest, the Birmingham Marriott and the five star Swallow Hotel. His chicken, rabbit and polenta terrine with fig and apple chutney is a top Christmas Day starter, or great for a Boxing Day feast.
CHICKEN, RABBIT and POLENTA TERRINE with FIG and APPLE CHUTNEY (SERVES 12)
INGREDIENTS FOR THE TERRINE
2 wild rabbits (ask your butcher to take off legs and debone saddle) 1 whole free range chicken mire poux (1 onion, 2 celery sticks, 1 carrot, thyme and garlic – all chopped, 1 bay leaf, 5 white peppercorns) 16 slices serrano or prosciutto ham ½ bunch tarragon ½ bunch parsley 4 leaves of gelatine 100g polenta (you can you use shopbought cooked polenta if you wish) FOR THE CHUTNEY
500g fresh figs 2 cooking apples 150g sugar 75ml cider vinegar (or raspberry) ½ tsp cinnamon (or all spice) TO MAKE THE TERRINE
– Fill a large pan with water and add
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the mire poux, bring to a simmer and then add the 4 rabbit legs and the whole chicken. Simmer on a low heat for 2 hours. – Wrap the rabbit loins in 4 slices of serrano ham and roll up tightly. – Pan sear the rabbit loin and cook in a medium oven for 12 minutes or until cooked through. Set aside to cool. – Line your terrine mould with cling film and then the remaining serrano ham, so that it hangs over the sides. – Once the chicken is cooked, remove from the stock. Retain some of the stock for the gelatine. – Flake down the chicken breast, legs and thighs, and also the rabbit legs, into a large mixing bowl. Add the chopped herbs to the bowl. – Soak the gelatine in cold water and then melt in two large ladles of the hot chicken stock. Pour over your chicken mixture and then season. – Cut the polenta to the size of your terrine mould. – Push some of the chicken mixture into the lined terrine mould until a third full, add the rabbit loin on top, and then pack more chicken around the loin. Next, add a layer of polenta cut to size, and finally pack it all in with the remaining chicken mix until you reach the top of the mould. – Fold the serrano ham over the top of the terrine and press with a heavy weight (tins of soup or beans will do the job). Put in the fridge overnight to firm. FOR THE FIG AND APPLE CHUTNEY
– Clean the figs. Cut them into quarters. Peel and cut apples into cubes. Put everything in a saucepan with sugar, vinegar, spice and a pinch of salt. Heat until boiling. Reduce heat and cook for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally. – Ladle the hot chutney into sterilised jars. Close immediately. Turn the jars until completely cooled. – Wait for 48 hours before consuming. The fig chutney jars can be stored in the refrigerator. ✱ JESSE’S BISTRO, The Stableyard, Black Jack Street, Cirencester GL7 2AA; jessesbistro.co.uk
Chef!
ALL THE SIDES Delicious veg, done well. That’s what Riverford are about, as they prove with these simple sides for your festive roasts
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Okay, hands up. Who, in the chaos of Christmas morning, lets some of their more ambitious lunch plans slide? Thoughts of towering blini starters topped with micro sprigs of feathery dill disband, and the undecorated trifle sits wobbling, plain and sombre. However, there are just a few hacks you can make to your main course that will make it, at least, something amazing. With a tricalore of glorious vegetables your table will sing, and these Riverford recipes aren’t hard. Use tasty seasonal veg and a punchy herbs to make your dinner a memorable one.
BRAISED RED CABBAGE (SERVES 4- 6)
A classic recipe for red cabbage braised with apples. It’s worth making a big potful, as it reheats very well; try the leftovers in a baked potato with a dollop of crème fraîche and some horseradish. INGREDIENTS
a good knob of lard, duck or goose fat, beef dripping or butter 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 red cabbage, quartered, cored and shredded 2 tbsp dark brown sugar 3 tbsp cider vinegar 250ml chicken or vegetable stock 1 tbsp flour 4 tbsp crème fraîche 1 tsp English mustard powder 2 apples (Bramley, if you can get them), grated METHOD
– Heat the oven to 150C/ 300F/gas mark 2. Heat the fat in a heavy casserole dish, then gently sweat the onion for 10 minutes, until softened. Add the red cabbage, sugar, vinegar and stock, season with salt and pepper, cover with the lid and cook in the oven for 1½ hours. – Sift the flour and mix with the crème fraîche and mustard powder in a large bowl to a smooth paste. Remove the casserole dish from the oven, add the apple, then spoon in the crème fraîche mixture, a ladleful at a time. Return it all to the casserole and cook on the hob for 10 minutes over a low heat, stirring regularly to heat the crème fraîche.
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ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS with SAGE and CHESTNUT BUTTER (SERVES 4 AS A SIDE)
You’ll make more butter than you need for this recipe, but it’s not worth making any less. It will keep in the fridge for a week or so, or can be frozen and sliced as you need it. INGREDIENTS
125g salted butter, at room temperature 100g cooked and peeled chestnuts (or use precooked), finely chopped 8 sage leaves, finely chopped 500g Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half olive oil, to roast METHOD
– Put the butter in a large bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until very soft. Stir in the chestnuts and sage. Lay a piece of cling film on your work surface. Spoon the butter in a line down the middle. Fold the cling film over and twist both ends to form a taut sausage. Chill until needed. – Heat the oven to 190C/ 375F/gas mark 5. Put the sprouts in a baking dish and toss in just enough olive oil to coat. Season with salt and pepper and roast for 20-30 minutes, until just tender but still with some bite. Toss once during cooking. – When the sprouts are roasted, toss with about six thin slices of the chestnut butter. Check the seasoning before serving.
ROAST CARROTS with HONEY and FENNEL (SERVES 4 AS A SIDE)
This is a simple side dish that works particularly well with roast pork. If you are a fennel fan, rub crushed fennel seeds into the scored pork skin (with the salt) to make fantastic aniseed crackling. INGREDIENTS
1kg carrots, peeled 2-3 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1½ tsp fennel seeds 4 tbsp honey METHOD
– Heat the oven to 200C/ 400F/gas mark 6. Cut the carrots into long wedges, or roll-cut them into angular pieces. If they are small and slender, leave them whole or cut them in half lengthways. Toss with the oil, fennel seeds, honey and salt. – Spread the carrots in a single layer over a roasting pan lined with baking paper. Roast for around 30 minutes until cooked through and caramelising in places – check after 20 minutes and turn over to ensure even roasting. Serve hot or warm. VARIATIONS
– Add a few sprigs of thyme to the roasting tray. – Swap carrots for beetroot or celeriac, or use a combination of root veg. – Instead of fennel seeds, try cumin seeds or lightly bashed coriander seeds. ✱ riverford.co.uk/recipes
Chef!
y g g i f e h t d Hol ing d d pu in town t r e s s e a new d eet and There’smooth and sw r your – it’s s e right size fo hanks, just th y sugar hit. T ke post-turJoseph Morris
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The historic Blue Boar in Witney is one of the landmark buildings on Market Square. Inside this restored pub you’ll find head chef Joseph Morris, who’s just 26, busying away, creating a whole host of delicious dishes. Joseph was born in Oxfordshire, and grew up with pubs and hospitality in his blood, as his parents owned and ran local boozers. Christmas Day was always an important time in his parents’ pubs, and Joseph loves the excitement and camaraderie that a kitchen brigade has on this very special festive day. He says: “I love the buzz you get at Christmas, with all the parties and everyone in a festive mood. At the Blue Boar, we want our guests to feel at home, by offering all the traditional fare – but we’ve created one or two dishes with a twist from the Mediterranean region this year, for a change. “The Blue Boar’s chocolate semifreddo is a favourite – it’s a delicious cross between a chocolate mousse and a gelato and with a light, creamy texture. It’s a great alternative to Christmas pudding, and the real benefit is that you can make them in advance.”
CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO with HAZELNUTS (SERVES 4)
INGREDIENTS
5g gelatine 250g double cream 190g semi-skimmed milk 100g caster sugar ½ tsp vanilla essence 80g dark chocolate (between 50% and 75% cocoa content) 25g roasted hazelnuts 40g Cantucci biscuits (almond biscotti) METHOD
– Soak the gelatine in cold water. – Place the cream and milk in a pan and heat. Add the sugar and vanilla and remove from the heat. – Remove the gelatine for the cold water and squeeze out any excess water – Add the gelatine and chocolate to the cream mixture and leave to melt. – Mix well and make sure the gelatine has dissolved. – Pour the mixture into 4 dariole (small, non-stick) moulds and freeze. – Bring the semifreddo out of the freezer about six minutes before serving, to free them up in the moulds. – When ready to serve, turn the semifreddo onto a plate and garnish with the roasted crushed hazelnuts and crushed Cantucci biscuits. – It's delicious served with caramel sauce. ✱ THE BLUE BOAR WITNEY, 28 Market Square, Witney, OX28 6BH; 01993 776353; blueboarwitneychristmas.co.uk
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This brand new Christmas party package puts a twist on tradition but will still include everything you need for the most memorable and exclusive Christmas Party. 3 COURSE BUFFET AND DISCO On selected dates throughout December from 7pm until 1am. Minimum numbers apply. £10pp deposit, non refundable and non transferable, fully pre paid at the time of booking.
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Kitchen
Armoury CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS
DREAM STEAM Water your oven, and it will thank you, says Matt Bielby. At least, it will if it’s one of these clever contraptions from Miele…
What’s this crazy lady doing? Giving her oven a nice little drink? Or filling her glass from the weirdest of taps? (I just don’t get it.) What she’s doing, my friend, is taking full advantage of Miele’s new Moisture Plus oven, which allows for extra-excellent baking and roasting, thanks to the steam that’s injected into the oven cavity each time you cook. Just tell the oven what you’re doing, add the required amount of water through the intake pipe, as seen – it’s usually between 150-300ml – and then select the type of steam enhancement you want: automatic bursts, manual bursts if you want to be really hands-on, or time-controlled for total precision. (Turns out she’s not crazy after all.) Well, okay – I suppose. I still don’t get what the steam is meant to do, though. It makes cooking better. With meat, it helps it brown while remaining succulent and tender. And with croissants or bread rolls, they apparently look and taste like they’re fresh from the bakery – thanks to one blast of steam at the start to help with the rise, and another at the end to help them brown.
THIS MONTH crumbsmag.com
If it’s so great, why don’t all ovens do it? Maybe one day they will, but right now this tech is exclusive to Miele, the familyrun outfit who’ve been making highend appliances in German’s industrial Westphalia region since 1899. (They’ve won Which? magazine’s Best Domestic Appliance Brand award loads of times, including 2015 and 2016.) Even without the Moisture Plus function this would be a great oven – well built, precise (you can cook at everything from 30-300C, with less than one degree variance), roomy, and even self-cleaning, thanks to an automatic process that reduces any residue in the oven to ash.
A NICE BIT OF LEG
Not that I ever clean my oven anyway, but I like the sound of that. Yep! Miele ovens are available all over, including John Lewis, but one cool way to find out more is to visit the Miele Experience Centre at Abingdon, just off the A34 in Oxfordshire, where you can get really hands on with the kit – including, yes, feed one with a glass of water.
✱ This Miele Moisture Plus oven costs £1,069. Find it at John Lewis or many independent dealers, or visit the Miele Experience Centre in Abingdon; miele.co.uk
BAUBLES AT DAWN
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GALS’ GIFTS
C N HRI O S W TM BE A IN S O G R TA DE KE RS N
Farm Shop: Love Lane, Cirencester, Black Jack Street, Cirencester Tetbury, Long Street Burford, Highstreet Northleach, The Green
FARM SHOP & COFFEE HOUSE
Established in the heart of the Cotswolds in 1808, built on the foundations of impeccable quality & exceptional service. With hundreds of products, we hope our farm shop will inspire you to create something magical of your own.
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See our recipe in the next issue
House Call
a jOLLY hOLLy hOUSe CaLL They’re one of the most famous foodie couples in the Cotswolds, and they bloomin’ love Christmas – so we couldn’t say no when Caroline and Greg Saturley invited us for an early festive feast crumbsmag.com
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Words by CHARLIE LYON Photos by KIRSTIE YOUNG
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ow typical is this? You pray all year round for sunshine, and then the one day you don’t mind it being overcast – because you’re hunkered indoors over a hot roast dinner and fat glass of red – the sun comes out, making everything unseasonally warm. That happened when we went to join Caroline and Greg Saturley at their Minchinhampton home. They’ve been getting in the Christmas mood for a while now – as owners of not only The Canteen in Nailsworth and The Hog at Horsley, but also new wine and tapas bar The Vault in Nailsworth – and punters have been asking about their Crimbo offerings for weeks. So, with Christmas on the brain, they decked out their house with wreathes and baubles early, and invited Crumbs around for lunch.
WELCOME, COOK CAROLINE
To be honest, it must always seem sunny when Caroline’s around. She welcomes us in today wearing a bright yellow linen pinny, which, along with all the décor, came from friends and Canteen neighbours Domestic Science, the homeware shop in Nailsworth. She’s got a big smile on her face, which never wavers despite the pressure of hosting and being interviewed. She busies herself making tea and prepping lunch, while husband Greg gives us the lowdown on the business. Caroline is prepping a sizeable lamb leg – rubbing it with sumac, harissa, cinnamon and smoked garlic, then topping with preserved lemons before popping it into the oven. The root veg – potatoes and sweet potatoes – have been cubed and dotted with whole garlic cloves and a good handful of verdant thyme, and will join the lamb in a bit. The Mediterranean flavours aren’t traditional, but perfect for a warmer day like today, and the chat leads around to where they picked up the love of these kinds of flavour combos.
MED FIRST
In 2006, Greg and Caroline moved to Cyprus, selling their house in Amberley so Caroline could head up a midwifery unit at Akrotiri. Greg
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Ari the dog was very excited to see us, but not as excited as we were for our lamb feast
worked as a photographer, sometimes photographing the newborns in the unit, and they lived a rather fabulous lifestyle. But as their children got older, they decided Blighty was where they wanted to bed down, and they moved back into their Amberley home. Caroline started making ceramics, and it was when selling them at the farmer’s market that they were told about local store Domestic Science. They popped along to see if they might start stocking the ceramics, and noticed that the building next door was vacant – which is when they found out owners Libs and David wanted to open a café there. “Well, I could do that,” Greg told them. And that was that, The Canteen – serving breakfast, brunch, lunches and Mediterranean tapas – was born. “When we came back from Cyprus I signed on, and now we have three businesses turning over a £1m year,” says Greg. “That’s quite amazing.” The couple opened The Hog at Horsley two and a half year ago, and have recently launched The Vault
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wine and tapas bar, which, after just six months, is doing a strong trade. Caroline, who was working as a fulltime midwife up until a year ago, has now given up her job to help out with their mini empire.
THREE’S THE MAGIC NUMBER
So, with three relatively new businesses, are they thinking of slowing? “Well, between you and me, there are plans,” says Greg. “We can’t say too much yet, though. It’s what I like doing, prospecting,” he continues. “I like looking for new places, imagining what you can do with the space. It’s my thing.” So what would their dream space be? “Anywhere in Nailsworth,” says Caroline. “We’re so lucky to be here. After being overseas for five years, it was nice to come back to nice food places and farmers’ markets.” It now seems that the Saturleys have created a holy trinity of sorts in the area. “We had a group of four ladies into The Vault recently,” regales Caroline. “They started at lunchtime at The
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Vault and drank eight pornstar martinis each – martinis with a shot of Prosecco in – and they were getting quite drunk, so I put them in a taxi like a responsible publican. I didn’t know it, but they then ordered the taxi to go to The Hog.” “We had a band on,” remembers Greg, “and they ordered more Prosecco, then fell asleep on the sofa.” “And then they came into The Canteen for breakfast the next morning,” finishes Caroline.
EATING UP
With the lamb rested and the veg crisp it’s time for dinner, and we move into the living room of their rented cottage (they sold up in Amberley to get capital for The Vault). Caroline brings through the lamb that she’s put on a bed of leaves, flavoured with pomegranate seeds and dates, and as we tuck into the tender meat, talk comes back around to Christmas. “We won’t be up too early on Christmas Day, as the children, Charlotte who’s 16 and Alex who’s 18, don’t get up early. Then we’ll be at The Hog,” they explain. “The punters expect us to be there. I don’t think they’d forgive us if we weren’t. We’ll be doing turkey, and probably a fish dish. It’s our executive chef Nacho’s birthday on Christmas Day, and he’s offered to cook. That’s dedication for you. But where will they eat themselves? “The last couple of years my family have come down,” says Caroline. “They’ve rented a cottage and they’ve cooked Christmas dinner. We go there after we close the pub to eat. I think we’ll be doing that again this year.”
PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING
Aristotle, their black and white dog, has joined us in the dining room and shakes us up from our post-lamb slump with his obvious zeal as Greg pulls the bone from the lamb. As soon as he’s been given his prize, he’s off to bury it in the garden. Then out comes pudding – lemon and blueberry polenta cake – with clotted cream custard. Conversation turns to baking. “The baker we use for The Canteen is Dom Salter from Salt Bakery. He’s lovely, and he turns up with flour all over his face and on his little round glasses,” says Caroline. “He makes some lovely sourdough pittas that go well with our Turkish breakfast, and he makes brioche
buns and ciabattas that are really good. The sourdough is great for people intolerant to gluten.” Caroline may be healthy, but she’s all for eating enjoyment too, so while they’ll always cater for dietary requirements, they do sigh a little when ‘orthorexia’ kicks in. “I really believe it’s self harm to restrict yourself to food fads,” Caroline says, “and that’s well recognised now. In some cases, people are doing it to their children. They come in glutenfree and vegan, then the next time they come in they’ll eat regular foods. It’s like Munchausen by proxy.”
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With that, we gobble down the cake and custard and help clear away plates before stepping back out into the daylight to grab a shot with Greg and Caroline by their front door. We wait for the sun to go behind a cloud while they pose with Ari, and as the wind picks up and the sky darkens, all of a sudden it’s beginning to feel a lot like Christmas. ✱ thehogathorsley.co.uk; ✱ thecanteennailsworth.co.uk; ✱ thevaultnailsworth.co.uk
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THE WANT LIST
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You’ve still got a bit of time to order these top Crimbo gifts for girlie pals
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1 1 CORKCICLE CANTEEN £19.99 Know a gal who likes to get out and about? This cool flask is practical and super-pretty. From Lakeland in Cheltenham. ✱ lakeland.co.uk 2 SALT PIG & SICILIAN SEA SALT £14.95 Looks nothing like a pig, but is actually a fine piece of tableware. From Carluccio’s, Gloucester Quays. ✱ carluccios.com 3 EMMA BRIDGEWATER WALLFLOWER DIARY £5.95 Get 2017 kicked off nicely with a groovy, girly diary. From Cotswold Trading in Broadway. ✱ emmabridgewater.co.uk 4 MAKE INTERNATIONAL FOX BOWL £9.99 AND GLASS £4.99 New in to Vinegar Hill in Cheltenham is this cool fox glass and bowl, for those who love a bit of quirk. ✱ vinegarhill.co.uk 5 GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF MAGNETS £7 AND APRON £13 Know a Bake Off fan who’s still in mourning? Cheer up their faces with these treats from Debenhams in Bath. ✱ debenhams.com
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We’re delighted to announce this year’s sumptuous Christmas Menus
CHRISTMAS AT THE HOG 1st December – 30th December £27 per person for 3 courses or £23 per person for 2 courses
CHRISTMAS DAY
£60 per person • Children’s menu £30 Including a welcome Christmas cocktail
CHRISTMAS PACKAGE
Two nights bed and breakfast • £225 3 course dinner for two (includes a drink each) Romantic Breakfast Hamper for two Bubbly on arrival
See our website for more information To make your reservation, please call 01453 833843 or email info@thehogathorsley.co.uk The South West’s ‘Best Pub’ Western Daily Press Food and Farming Awards 2016 Gloucestershire’s Community Pub of the Year Young Business of the Year 2015 Tel: 01453 833843 f thehogathorsley T thehogathorsley
www.thehogathorsley.co.uk
Mains NEW COMPANIES, AMAZING INNOVATIONS, CAMPAIGNS WORTH FIGHTING FOR, AND PEOPLE THAT MATTER
It’s dishes like this that won The Wild Rabbit a star. There’s more on Michelin on p50
Highlights THE HIT LIST
It’s fun, fun, fun in the run-up to Christmas Page 47
FILL ’ER UP
Keep your glasses topped up with the finest Cotswolds bevvies Page 53
Including…
2 crumbsmag.com
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COCKTAIL RECIPES that are not shaken or stirred
the fam f o e o m
us
Ho
THE WEIGHBRIDGE INN
2 IN 1 PIE
®
THE WEIGHBRIDGE INN | LONGFORDS | MINCHINHAMPTON | GLOUCESTERSHIRE | GL6 9AL weighbridge123@yahoo.co.uk | 01453 832520 | www.weighbridgeinn.co.uk
Mains
1 POP UP SHOP
What? Cowley Manor Christmas shopping. When? 24 and 25 November. Where? Cowley Manor. What’s the damage? £5 donation, which goes to Cobalt Unit Appeal Fund. Shopaholics and fashionistas will be hunting out the best Christmas buys when Cowley Manor joins forces with Space.NK, Harvey Nichols, Whole Foods, Taittinger and more. In fact, you can curate your perfect Christmas at home in just one trip. With festive fashions, boutique shopping, artisan workshops and even a little snow, this is the event to kick off the festive season. ✱ cowleymanor.com
2 FEELING WINE
What? Wines of Jura tasting evening. When? 24 November, 7pm. Where? The Grape Escape, Cheltenham. What’s the damage? £25. It’s an international trend that you’ll want to get on board with – apparently wines of Jura in the east of France are better than we ever thought. Head to this informal tasting with a flight of eight wines and decide for yourself, trying natural wine made from grapes from organic or biodynamic vineyards.
Perhaps you’ll make tasty purchases for the Christmas dinner table, too. ✱ thecheltenhamgrape.com
3 MARKET SHARE
What? Chipping Campden Christmas Market. When? 2 December, 3-8pm. Where? Chipping Campden high street. What’s the damage? Just take cash for your buys. Is there anything that gets you more in the mood for Christmas than the annual market in this historic town? With a hotchpotch of 40 stalls trading into the night, it’s the perfect event to descend upon with friends and family for a browse, a bit of booze, a bite, and to (hopefully) scoop some local buys. It’s so good, even Santa himself (the real one, we’re assured) will be making an appearance between 4-6.30pm. Plus, Rio Olympic gold rowing medallist Mat Gotrel is turning on the Christmas lights at 8pm. If you’re making a day of it, go to the newly refurbished Cotswold House Hotel for festive afternoon tea first. ✱ chippingcampden.co.uk; cotswoldhouse.com
4 BREW TIME
What? Brewerism Gloucestershire Microbrewery Tour.
When? 3 Dec, 12.15-5:30pm. Where? Buses from central Cheltenham. What’s the damage? £50. The Cotswold beer scene is exploding, and any drinker worth his salt will be saluting Saint Nick this year with a local ale. This is a day trip that’s fun, as you join Brewerism to explore Gloucester Brewery, the Cotswold Lion Brewery in Coberley, and Hillside Brewery near the Forest of Dean. There are tours and beer samples provided at each microbrewery, plus a snack at the final stop. You’ll enjoy the pre-Christmas beery adventure, and get plenty of good ideas for your table ale, too! ✱ brewerism.co.uk
5 ROMAN FEAST
What? A Christmas feast with Eleonora Galasso. When? 10 December. Where? Thyme, Southrop. What’s the damage? £75 for four courses; £145 for the cookery class. Christmas is a time to abandon our selfrestraining British roots and feast like an Italian – elaborately, indulgently and with all our friends and family. So make the most of this ultimate Italian feast with self-styled food interpreter Eleonora Galasso, all laid on in Thyme’s beautiful Tythe Barn, perfect for gathering groups together, or just enjoying the company of fellow diners. Eleonora
Advent #FOMO? There’s so much to do in the Cotswolds over Christmas, but where to start? Get over your ‘fear of missing out’ with our what’s on guide
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will be reimagining traditional Italian recipes, plus there’s a two-hour morning class where she’ll reveal how to create the perfect Italian lunch. Bellissimo! ✱ thyme.co.uk/dining/Thyme’s-Table
6 GET YOUR COOK ON
What? Make your Christmas pud. When? A good few weeks before 25 December. Where? At home. What’s the damage? Just the cost of your ingredients (hopefully you’ve got a few in the storecupboard already). Here’s the ultimate recipe from The Daffodil in Cheltenham to make a glorious centrepiece for your Crimbo table – watch ’em gobble as you sit smug. INGREDIENTS:
( Makes 6 small puds ) 60g plain flour 2g baking powder 60g fresh white breadcrumbs 60g shredded suet (vegetarian) 25g ground almonds 115g soft dark brown sugar 2g ground mixed spice 1g grated nutmeg 1g cinnamon 50g stoned prunes, finely chopped 50g peeled carrots, grated 60g mixed currants, sultanas and raisins 25g chopped mixed peel 1 apples, peeled, cored, roughly chopped juice and grated zest of 1 orange and 1 lemon 2 eggs 30ml dark rum 15ml black treacle 15ml golden syrup 75ml stout (Guinness) METHOD
– In a mixing bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder. Add the breadcrumbs, suet, ground almonds, soft dark brown sugar and spices. Mix the dry ingredients together. – Add the chopped prunes, grated carrots, dried fruit, mixed peel, apples and lemon and orange zest, and mix well. – Beat the eggs together and stir into the dry ingredients, along with the lemon and orange juices, rum, treacle, golden syrup and stout. Stir really well to mix all the ingredients together. – The mixture should now have a fairly
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sloppy consistency. If it needs more liquid, add a little more stout or rum. Taste it and, if needed, add more spices. – Cover the bowl with cling film and refrigerate for up to 5 days to allow the mix to mature. – Butter the pudding moulds and lightly dust with flour. Divide the mix between the pudding basins. Lay a ring of greaseproof paper over the top of each and cover with baking parchment or foil, making a fold which leaves room for the pudding to rise. Tie string around the top of each basin. – Steam over boiling water for 6 hours, being careful to check that the water doesn’t boil dry. Top up with boiling water from a kettle, as required. – Leave to cool completely. Then remove the old baking parchment or foil and rewrap with fresh as before, using string to tie it off. – Store in a cool and dry place until Christmas Day. ✱ thedaffodil.com
7 MAKE A BREAK FOR IT
What? Game evening. When? 16 Nov, 7pm. Where? Castle House hotel, Hereford. What’s the damage? £40. Game is always in great supply in Herefordshire, and this three-course dinner, created by executive head chef Claire Nicholls and her team, is a great reflection of the finest local game from Ballingham Hall, Harewood Park, Perrystone and Kentchurch. Anything else? There’s Prosecco on arrival, and 24 rooms and suites in case you want to stop over. ✱ castlehse.co.uk
8 TEA BREAKS
What: Kids’ tea time. When? 3, 10 and 17 December. Where? Lygon Arms, Broadway. The damage? Children’s afternoon tea costs £15 and includes a visit from Santa; adult tea is £20. Have your little ones been very, very good this year? Then bring them along to the Lygon Arms in Broadway for a festive tea in the magical Christmasthemed courtyard. The bonus? Santa will be joining in the fun (yes, definitely the real one again). ✱ lygonarmshotel.co.uk
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9 IT’S MOCKTAIL O’CLOCK What? Make a mocktail. When? Christmas Eve. Where? At home. What’s the damage? Pretty cheap. Keep nippers calm and focussed on Christmas Eve by getting them to prepare their own (and the driver’s) special Crimbo party fizz. Raspberry lemonade is a good ’un – looks neon, but all naturally coloured. All you need to do is juice two lemons and an orange and mix together with a big handful of puréed raspberries. Heat with caster sugar and a little water to make a syrup (adding sugar to taste). Cool. On the day, top up the syrup with sparkling water, crushed ice and mint.
10 GOT A LIGHT
What? Sudeley Castle Spectacle of Light. When? 1-23 December, 5pm. Where? Sudeley Castle, Winchcombe. The damage? From £9. Forget the Christmas tree light switch ons this year – here’s a light show to remember. After dark, the impressive castle grounds will come to life in a spectacle of light and sound while you explore the gardens and ruins. Best thing? You can take your hot choccies around with you – there’s nothing more festive than supping hot drinks while you’ve got a cold nose. ✱ sudeleycastle.co.uk
Mains
SLEUTHs & STARs
Watch out – there’s a new star in town. With The Wild Rabbit bringing the Cotswolds’ Michelin accolades to nine, we ask top chefs what the awards mean to the region
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here were a few celebrations happening in the Cotswolds when the Michelin Guide UK 2017 was published back in October. The biggest of which was probably at the The Wild Rabbit in Kingham, where executive chef Tim Allen scored the pub its first star. It was just one of 17 restaurants in the country to get a new one, and brings the Cotswolds’ number of stars to nine. The following restaurants also boast one star: Restaurant Hywel Jones by Lucknam Park in Colerne, Bybrook at Manor House Hotel in Castle Combe, Lords of the Manor restaurant in Upper Slaughter and 5 North St in Winchcombe. Le Champignon Sauvage, Cheltenham and The Dining Room at Whatley Manor in Malmesbury kept a firm grip of their prestigious two stars. The region’s celebrations don’t stop there: the Tavern in Cheltenham, Made by Bob in Cirencester and the Horse & Groom in Moreton-in-Marsh were all awarded Bib Gourmands, which celebrate ‘exceptionally good food at moderate prices’. And it wasn’t just the chefs who were revelling in their regional success; Michelin Guide to the UK editor Rebecca Burr was delighted too: “It’s wonderful that The Wild Rabbit in Kingham has got a star. Tim Allen is a fine chef – we were watching him as he moved from Launceston Place in Kensington,” she
says. “He was given an open platform to do what he wants at The Wild Rabbit, with the support of Lady Bamford. And he is very talented.” The “backing of Lady Bamford” (founder of Daylesford) is an interesting point, and leads us to ask Rebecca this question: is it easier to get a Michelin star if you have a big budget? “No, no,” she insists. “Far from it. On the other hand, you have a chef like Thomas Carr at The Olive Room in Ilfracombe, Devon [who has just won his first star]. He had a good grounding with Nathan Outlaw, but opened up on his own. It’s not in a prime location – it’s quiet in Ilfracombe, and if it’s blowing a gale it’s going to be hard to get people in. He has a small team to support, but the food speaks for itself.” So does this mean that regional restaurants on the up? “Definitely,” says Rebecca. And will we see the Cotswolds count go up? “There’s definitely more room for stars in the Cotswolds, especially in pubs. There’s a gap in the market there,” she says.
CLASSIFIED CALLERS
With the inspectors visiting a restaurant at least three times (for new three-star restaurants, sometimes eight times), all incognito, accolades can come as a surprise for some chefs. Despite Tim Allen at The Wild Rabbit having secured a star at his last residence, this one still came from out of left field, he insists.
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“Honestly, I feel a little surprised, humbled, definitely elated and – of course – stressed,” he says. Neither Rebecca, nor any of the chefs we spoke to, had a tick list of what went into gaining a star – it seems you can’t plan to win one. The editors meet internationally to make sure the standards are equal across the globe, but then its just up to each brigade to wow. “I wouldn’t have a clue when the inspectors visit,” says Tim. “That’s the point, though – you aren’t cooking for Michelin, you’re cooking for your customers. We’ve made sure we are consistent – we cook great food that our customers want to eat.” But he must be doing something right. Really, there has to be some kind of secret? “Quality produce handled with respect and passion, good technique and an emphasis on flavour,” he says. “Not doing too much to the main ingredient and using complementing flavours. Ultimately, Michelin covers a huge cross section of the cuisine in the UK, and recognises quality wherever they find it. It doesn’t matter what it is, it just needs to be quality. That can be quality for £20, or quality for £200.”
HOLDING ON
Excellent quality at the higher end of the price range is what Martin Burge, executive head chef at The Dining Room at Whatley Manor, is concentrating on. He’s “very proud and
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( feature ) From left to right: Tim Allen, James ‘Bob’ Parkinson and Martin Burge
feels privileged” to have retained two stars in the 2017 guide. He admits that retaining two stars does require a bigger budget, though… “In my experience of Michelin two-starred establishments, there is definitely an increase in staff and focused time on the preparation of food to take a restaurant to this level,” he says. “Premium ingredients are often heavily featured on the menus. Two stars are awarded to restaurants that demonstrate ‘excellent cooking worth a detour’. Investment is required to achieve this standard consistently.” It’s more difficult to retain stars than to win them for the first time though, Martin reckons. “You need to maintain the self-motivation to preserve the standards, and passion and desire too. “No one really knows, except Michelin, what they are looking for in the jump from one to two stars. However, from my experience at Whatley Manor I feel I have developed a very clear identity in the dishes we serve, and have followed this through with the consistency to produce the same standard in every plate of food on each and every day. “The key for me is not to assume a dish works, just because on paper it should. For us it’s about a steady progression in creating modern dishes whilst keeping their classic roots. We rigorously test a dish, making sure we are 100% happy with it before it goes on the menu. It’s very important we give our guests the depth of flavours in each one.”
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PURSE-FRIENDLY PRICES
The Bib Gourmand, now in its 20th year, is a newer kind of accolade for the guide, given to restaurants offering high-quality food and good value for money, but not necessarily having to offer the same level of service as the best restaurants. Made by Bob in Cirencester has held a Bib Gourmand since 2014 – they’re one of just over 140 eateries in the country to hold one. “We never really push for these awards,” says owner James ‘Bob’ Parkinson. “I guess we got it for just doing the things we do, a daily menu of well-sourced produce and food made with passion. But we appreciate it when we get them – it’s awesome, and great for staff morale.” And what if they were to ever lose their Bib Gourmand? “I think it would be fair to say it generates business, and keeps us all on our toes. It reminds us all what we are doing, and lets us know that we are doing a good job. If we lost it, I would be gutted for the team. The front of house and kitchen team work tirelessly for the business and our customers. The award makes us all feel special.”
TO INFINITY...
So, the Michelin stars are stacking up regionally, but will we ever see three stars outside of London? “There’s lots of pressure on two-star chefs to automatically go for three stars, but it’s hard,” says Rebecca Burr. “You’ve
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got to remember that there are only 100 restaurants in the world with three stars, and these chefs are being compared to chefs across the world, not just in this country. They’re measured on a world standard, it’s a global accolade. We’re a small country, and doing pretty well.” But even though everyone is aware of the exceptionally high standards required, some Cotswolds chefs are gunning for three stars. “Why not?” says Tim Allen. “Whatley Manor is an amazing premises with a very dedicated team. Three stars would be the ultimate pinnacle, and a lifetime’s worth of achievement.” So, does Martin Burge agree? “Are three stars possible in the Cotswolds?” he says. “Yes, of course. Anything is possible, as we have very talented chefs out here, and with the perfect formulae anything is possible.” As for dining trends, Rebecca reckons restaurants are going to have to shake it up a bit for next year. “We’ve had the Nordic trend and the Japanese influence, and the focus on one ingredient with the Noma style of décor,” she says. “Destination dining, and tasting menus at £150 a head, may have to come to a halt. Diners will want something new. Restaurants need to try and be a bit more approachable, and change their menus to keep people coming back.” So, who should we keep our eye on? “Perhaps Philip Howard, who’s going from The Square to Elystan Street in Chelsea. He’s one to watch...”
TRADITIONAL ARTISAN ITALIAN GELATO HANDMADE IN THE COTSWOLDS WHAT OUR CUSTOMERS SAY...
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www.combinedbrewers.co.uk BREWERY SHOP Monday to Friday 10am - 5.30pm Saturday 11am - 1pm (except December the 17th and 24th 10am - 5.30pm)
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K n i Dr ! P u
Mains
hristmas C e n fi r u o Team up y these tasty tipples foods withtswolds stockists from Co w their stuff who kno
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“Good people drink good beer,” said Hunter S Thompson; but we at Crumbs like to guzzle a whole host of drinks – beers, wines, spirits, the whole lot, especially when it comes to the festive season – and the closer to the Cotswolds they’re made, the more we love them. Here we’ve rounded up drinks from our favourite local producers or indie merchants, to help your Christmas jollifications slide by in style.
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1 BEST DRUNK: NOT FIRST THING IN THE MORNING
You’re gonna have to contain your excitement and wait ’til at least past lunchtime to open each window of this best-ever advent calendar. Chase Distillery Advent Calendar, £130 from John Lewis; williamschase.co.uk
2 BEST WITH: CHOCOLATE PUD
Spice up a plain mousse or soufflé with a rich cherry brandy. Every bottle is handcrafted with care by a family business in the West Country. It’s made from ripe cherries that have been slowly fermented to capture their fresh aroma and flavours, then infused with an oakmatured French brandy. Fairy Liqueurs Cherry Brandy Star, £20/20cl; yumbles.com 8
3 BEST WITH: THE COLD BUFFET
If you want something a little sweeter, give Yardarm a go. It’s a beautifully crafted, medium 5.5% cider that will sit perfectly with any ham recipe or cold meats. It’s made with 100% real apple and can be enjoyed mulled by the fire, or as it comes, straight from the press. Yardarm, £2.60/500ml from Beard and Sabre in Cirencester; beardandsabre.co.uk
4 BEST WITH: GLAZED HAM
Sweet and salty and fruity and delicious, there’s nothing better than a glazed ham on Boxing Day. Team it with this amazing copper ale to round off the meal – its quality roasted malts are full and fruity with herbal and berry notes. Brakspear Hoppy Holidays, £1.50/330ml from Wychwood Brewery in Witney; brakspear.co.uk
5 BEST WITH: ROAST GOOSE
This silky number from one of California’s great domains has the fruit concentration and earthy notes to complement the intense flavour of your favourite Christmas bird. Joseph Swan Cuvée du Trois Pinot Noir 2012, £35 from The Grape Escape in Cheltenham; thecheltenhamgrape.com
6 BEST DRUNK: IN FRONT OF A ROARING FIRE
Shelter from the chilly wind and hunker down with this strong dark brown beer with a malty palate, nutty overtones, and a hint of sweetness. Best enjoyed after Christmas Day lunch unwinding in front of a roaring fire or Christmas TV. Twelve Days Beer, £26.40/12x500ml, Hook Norton Brewery; hooky.co.uk
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7 BEST WITH: FIGGY PUDDING AND MINCE PIES
With big fruity aroma and flavours, Harry’s Dabinett cider is smooth with gentle tanins and goes brilliantly with any of your favourite dried-fruit puds or crumbly mince pies. Harry’s Dabinett Cider, £14.70/6x500ml bottles; harryscidercompany.co.uk
8 BEST DRUNK: AT YOUR POSH NEW YEAR’S DO
Use this new, citrusy vodka for the base of your own special signature cocktails this New Year. Serve it long with heaps of ice, springs of fresh thyme and a good splosh of soda for the ultimate pick-meup at any hour. Eureka Lemon Marmalade Vodka, £47/70cl, from Harvey Nichols; williamschase.co.uk
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The Inn at Fossebridge WINERY, RESTAURANT & ROOMS
A very warm welcome awaits at The Inn, with stunning Christmas decorations, thousands of fairy lights, roaring log fires and that delicious smell of mulled wine as you enter through the ancient door.
FESTIVE FAYRE Available Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, from Friday 2nd December to Saturday 24th December 2 courses £19.50 per person • 3 courses £25.50 per person Includes coffee/tea and baby mince pies
PRIVATE DINING Two beautiful rooms with no room hire charge Perfect for family gatherings and celebrations
CHRISTMAS DAY LUNCH A glass of champagne on arrival, 4-course lunch plus coffee and mince pies £75.00 per person, £35.00 per child aged 5 to 10 (under 5’s complimentary)
Award-winning English wine Visit our Gloucestershire vineyard for Tours & Tasting, Restaurant & Rooms or visit our Hampshire location an ideal location for Weddings & Events. GLOUCESTERSHIRE • HAMPSHIRE Newent Gloucestershire GL18 1LS T: 01531 890223 | | E: info@threechoirs.com
www.three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk
For further enquiries and to book please call 01285 720721 or email us on info@fossebridgeinn.co.uk
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GET SHAKIN’ AND MAKIN’ Two tasty cocktail recipes from local producers who know how to mix
THE COTSWOLDS FIZZ
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By Cotswolds Distillery A tasty and sophisticated cocktail with the festive flavours of a hot toddy combining with a cool, crisp Champagne…
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15ml Cotswolds Distillery 1616 Barreled Aged Gin 15ml fresh orange juice bar spoon (15ml) honey bar spoon (15ml) marmalade 1 clove Champagne top-up
11 BEST WITH: DECADENT PUDDINGS
Want ripeness, balance and finesse to luxe up your indulgent puds? These unique eaux de vie (fruit brandies, using up to 45kg of fruit to produce just one litre) are made in the Cotswolds and available in plum, pear, apple, elderberry and more. Capreolus Distillery Eaux de Vie, £7/30ml; capreolusdistillery.co.uk
9 BEST WITH: TURKEY
Many people will be cracking open a fullbodied red to accompany their turkey, but not owners of The Grape Escape. It has to be a top-notch Chardonnay with a composed use of oak, they say. Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2014, £29 from The Grape Escape in Cheltenham; thecheltenhamgrape.com
10 BEST TO: KICK OFF CHRISTMAS DAY LUNCH
Incredibly complex, with powerful blood orange flavours developing into floral, spice and berry notes, this Cotswolds gin is definitely one to wow your Crimbo callers with. Will make a fantastic Dry Martini before the Christmas Day lunch.Capreolus Distillery Garden Tiger Dry Gin, £35/500ml from Tivoli Wines in Cheltenham; tivoliwines.co.uk
Muddle the clove in a Boston tin, add other ingredients with ice. Shake, then fine strain into a Champagne flute. Top up with Champagne, gently stir and serve.
12 BEST FOR: APERITIF OR DIGESTIF
Rich and fruity with a distinct British tartness, the relaunched Herefordsire British Cassis will pep up fizz for a kir with local style, or help wash down a strong Cheddar after dinner. White Heron Herefordsire British Cassis, £12/200ml from The Broadway Wine Company; whiteherondrinks.co.uk
13 BEST FOR: THE MORNING AFTER
Made in Cheltenham, this pick-me-up drink is one way to bust the fogginess in your head. It’s got orange and lime juice, ginger and milk thistle, among other revitalising ingredients, to help you bounce back easily. Overhang, £2.49/500ml from Holland & Barrett in Cirencester and Cheltenham; overhangdrinks.com
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RASPBERRY MARTINI
By Gibson’s Organic For a posh cocktail with a fruity twist, add a measure of raspberry liqueur to a classic martini, shake and enjoy. 60ml gin 20ml dry vermouth 20ml Gibson’s Organic raspberry liqueur Place ice in your shaker, then add the vermouth and the gin. Shake, then add the raspberry liqueur and shake again briefly. Strain into a cocktail glass.
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NOW OPEN
The Little Italian Bistro & Cotswold Tearoom Burford House Hotel 99, High Street Burford Reservations: (01993) 823151 stay@burford-house.co.uk
Fall in love with Italian food all over again!
SUP & CHOW CHRISTMAS PARTIES
CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS WITH US...
Available for private hire Finger buffets available from £7.50 per person. Or book for a full festive Christmas lunch or dinner with your family, friends or colleagues 2 course £16.99 • 3 course £19.99
FESTIVE BUBBLES BRUNCH throughout December £10 brunch & prosecco
BOTTOMLESS BRUNCH SATURDAYS Nov 15th to Dec 23rd £30 per person
To book call 01242 521736 242 Bath Road, Cheltenham, GL53 7NB
www.supandchow.co.uk
CHRISTMAS LUNCHES FROM £15 CHRISTMAS PARTY NIGHTS FROM £45 CHRISTMAS DAY & NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS FROM £85
Al Fresco Dining @ Magnolia Brasserie
NEW FOR 2016 Festive Afternoon Teas from £20 per person Boxing Day Bubbly Brunch from £15 per person
Open Monday to Sunday
For more details of our Christmas programme please call: Breakfast • Lunch •01367 Afternoon 241272Tea Picnic • Dinner 01367 241272
www.sudburyhouse.co.uk reservations@sudburyhouse.co.uk 56 London Street, Faringdon, Oxfordshire SN7 7AA
THE
HOWARD ARMS Following our extensive refurbishment we are proud to announce that The Howard Arms is once again open for business!
Family run country pub situated in the village of Andoversford. Find fine dining inspired dishes mixed with pub classic, all expertly cooked and presented, using locally sourced beef and pork. Great selection of cask ales and fine wines.
Call for a reservation: 01242 821426 email: theroyaloakandoversford@gmail.com www.theroyaloakcotswolds.co.uk
The Howard Arms, Lower Green, Ilmington, Nr Shipton-on-Stour, Warwickshire CV36 4LT
info@howardarms.com www.howardarms.com
01608 682 226
RESTAURANT · BAR · GARDEN · ROOMS
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THE DRINKS CABINET presented by The Craft Drink Co.
W
ith the clocks turned back and the nights drawing in, winter is officially upon us, as is the time to enjoy some darker beers. Perfectly warm and comforting when you’re hunkered up inside your home, or when celebrating with friends, they also match well with seasonal foods such as blue cheese, pear desserts and rich winter stews. Savour the flavours of these fine examples...
1 Box Steam Brewery – Funnel Blower This multi-award winning porter from Box Steam Brewery in Wiltshire is infused with Madagascan vanilla pods for a sweetness that perfectly contrasts with the slight bitterness of roasted barley and chocolate malts. 2 Cotswold Brewing Company – Cotswold Dark Lager Cotswold Dark Lager is a Dunkel-style beer that is bursting with flavour and has a smooth and perfectly warming finish. Aromas
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of grain, caramel and toffee tempt you in to enjoy the longer bitterness and hoppy flavours of this seriously moreish lager that comes into its own during winter. 3 Combined Brewers (Cotswold Spring Brewing) – Prancer Brewed only at Christmas time, Prancer is a deep-brown coloured, warming, bottleconditioned ale with a spicy aroma and a full body. Sweetness and Christmas fruits and spices combine to conjure a very satisfying winter ale that’s reminiscent of mince pies. 4 Electric Bear Brewing – Spilt Milk Spilt Milk is a classic milk stout-style beer brewed by Electric Bear in Bath. The use of lactose sugars adds a rich and creamy smoothness to the body and a delicate sweetness to the palate. A mix of speciality dark malts provide subtle coffee flavours and a big hit of chocolate. 5 Gloucester Brewery – Dockside Dark Brewed all year, Dockside Dark is a cross
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between a porter and a stout, featuring warm and complex chocolate and roasted coffee notes, and a depth of malt. Rich and dark in colour, this delicious and satisfying ale is rich and dark with velvety subtle sweetness. 6 Stroud Brewery – Big Cat This organic, easy drinking stout at 4.5%, was a Bronze Award Winner at the 2016 Cotswold Artisan Drink Awards and is a local favourite. Big Cat has a velvety smooth mouthfeel with a complexity of fruity and dark malt flavours.
The Craft Drink Co. is a speciality craft drinks distributor, supplying independent businesses with exceptional craft drinks sourced from makers across the Cotswolds and Central England region. For more information, visit the website, craftdrink.co.uk
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Afters NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM
Highlights ABOUT THYME
FIGGING ABOUT
Autumn’s finest produce was parcelled up nicely at Thyme, Southrop
It’s all change at Cotswold House Hotel’s revamped Fig restaurant
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Everybody needs good neighbours: it’s a jolly social affair at Thyme’s sharing tables
Including…
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spelt desert and a chocolate cactus
Af ters
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THYME Fancy the supper club experience on a whole new luxe level? Hannah Bellis discovers the seasonal feasts at Thyme on Southrop Manor Estate
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and a light chocolate sauce topped with a crunchy shard of hazelnut praline. The feast was finished with one of my very favourite cheeses – a Vacherin Mont d’Or served baked and oozing with an exquisite sourdough plus rosehip and medlar jelly. There are plenty more chances to sample Thyme’s Table both this year and next, including at an Italian Christmas feast with guest chef Eleonora Galasso on 10 December. Just image the gorgeous Tithe Barn decked out in Christmas finery – now that has got to make some special food taste amazingly good. ✱ THYME, Southrop Manor Estate, Lechlade, Gloucestershire GL7 3NX; 01367 850174; thyme.co.uk
grapes I have ever had – autumn at its best! There’ s a lovely mix of formal and informal at Thyme – sparkling crystal and crisp linens, but a convivial and cosy atmosphere that make it a casual, social experience too. I felt this most while mingling with other guests sipping cocktails at the start, but also when the main course of steaming mutton pithivier pies with red kale were cut at the table, and guests served each other from the communal platters with gasps of anticipation as the juices bubbled through the pastry. Dessert was a vanilla semifreddo made with pear Eau de Vie from Capreolus Distillery in Cirencester. The dessert was served with poached pear
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PHOTOS BY ROSALIND WEST
’m a great believer in setting the scene for a meal. If I’m hosting dinner I’ll always sacrifice precious cooking time to set the table meticulously, choosing tunes and creating ambience – I swear it makes the food taste better! Could this be one of the reasons dinner at the recent Thyme’s Table event, held in the gorgeously renovated Tithe Barn, tasted so good? It takes incredible designer skill to make a new venue feel so established. Thyme Cookery School has operated on Southrop Manor estate since 2009, but last year the offering expanded to include Thyme’s Table dinners. Doors on these regular pop-ups may only have been open for 12 months, but the gorgeous interlocking beams over the cathedral-height dining area have clearly been here a whole lot longer. The cathedral comparison holds true for the food, too. Thyme has been awarded three stars from the Sustainable Restaurant Association, making it a kind of mecca for me. The 150 acres of Southrop Manor has its own kitchen garden that goes beyond your usual veg patch – they have sheep, pigs, poultry and bees with a menu and ethos that revolves around eating seasonal produce grown on the estate and surrounding areas, where possible. I was attending the ‘For the Love of the Land’ dinner celebrating autumn’s produce, cooked by Matt Wardman, head chef at The Swan gastropub on the estate. I felt sorry for diners down the road at The Swan that night, as he was busy cooking up a storm for us at Thyme’s Table! Matt’s menu was four courses with canapés and a cleansing bramble ice between starter and main for £75 a head, plus £50 for the accompanying wine flight. It delivered some exceptional surprises, including Aztec broccoli (which I’d never heard of before), served as tempura canapés with dashi vinegar. Another treat was the starter of smoked partridge with purslane and autumn grapes. Smoke and game in the bird sat well with the beautiful bitter leaves, but it was the aromatic hit of green cardamom that really set this dish alight, especially combined with the tiniest but most wonderfully tasting
Af ters
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FIG
AT COTSWOLD HOUSE HOTEL Inspired by a £1m refurbishment, the kitchen team have souped up their menu to create a feast for your bellies and for your peepers, says Charlie Lyon
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hey say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I defy anyone to visit the newly refurbished Cotswold House Hotel and say it’s not to their liking. Here, beauty is not subjective – it’s fact. For a start, the hotel is slap-bang in the centre of Chipping Campden, renowned for its beguiling terraced high street, lined with a patchwork of architectural styles. The historic market hall is just a stone’s throw away – it’s 400 years old, and restored by the National Trust to its former glory. Secondly, the £1m that’s just been invested in this grand Regency-era building has been spent with a flourish, to create beautiful interiors found in only the finest and most stylish of Cotswold homes and London boutique hotels. The mix of rooms and suites in both the main building and the 16th century cottage are warm and inviting, with top-drawer bathrooms, woven carpets and colourful accents to the curtains and cushions. The restaurants have been given an overhaul, too – the casual eatery The Bistro on the Square is now a warm
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space with open fire and monochrome corner bar, but what we’re really here to check out is the food at Fig restaurant. We’ve heard the 10-strong kitchen team has been inspired by the refurbishment to deliver a new, more modern menu. The restaurant itself is pretty knockout, offering a refined English finedining vibe that tonight’s Japanese guests are revelling in. It’s modern enough, though – white, light and bright, a with statement gilded mirror. Gleaming silverware and stiff napkins sit orderly on the white tablecloths, while botanical sketches on the walls, cosy sofas and small cushions relax the space. The menu is beautifully select – four starters, four mains, four puds. Two courses are £32, three £40. And dishes are given an understated description. The ‘handpicked crab with yuzu, cucumber and avocado’ does nothing to prepare me for the visually arresting plate of food that’s softly set down. It’s a perfectly cylindrical base of fresh and juicy white crab meat. Floating on top is a sunshine-yellow wafer (think waferthin, then divide by two) through which jut neat ribbons of fresh cucumber. Creamy avocado blobs decorate the sphere. Bite into a mouthful and the yuzu gel balls pop with a citrus burst and the micro coriander leaves a lasting freshness. A delectable dish. Across the table, the slow-braised ox tail isn’t quite as pretty, but it packs a punch in the taste department – meaty and rich and soothed by its pond of chervil root purée and red onion jam. I jump from sea to land for a main of pork fillet that’s crusted with dry herbs. There’s fondant potato, dark and nourishing cavolo nero and a piquillo pepper coulis, which rounds off a dish that feels surprisingly nourishing for such an elegant-looking plate. Opposite, the perfectly slow-roasted duck breast is tender, made rich with a foie gras and brioche bread sauce – too rich for some, perhaps. Slivers of pineapple stab through to save the day. For dessert, my blackberry mousse is topped with soft meringue and mango jelly. It’s in the guise of a mini fried egg, and along with bricks of dehydrated blackberry crumb perhaps lacks the elegance of the former dishes. However, a base layer of mojito granite adds punch and attention is drawn back to the fabulous flavours.
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My companion’s dessert is more experimental – a desert scene of caramelised spelt dust, moistened with milk jelly and sweetened with honeycomb topped with coffee ice cream and cactus-shaped chocolate. For me, it’s offbeat; for him, it’s the most exciting pud he’s had since he was wee. But the coffee ice cream, which is flavoured with extract from the finest grounds, we agree is the best we’ve had. Minor carpings aside, the whole experience is a fabulous affair. With the slickest of service and silky smooth wines, Cotswold House Hotel is a place to head to when you’re craving escapism into a world of comfortable finery. And with a good ol’ spa to boot, the beauty of it all will definitely rub off on you. ✱ COTSWOLD HOUSE HOTEL AND SPA, The Square, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6AN; 01386 840330; cotswoldhouse.com
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Little black book
You might know sous chef Nick Bennett from Restaurant 56 @ Sudbury House Hotel, or from last year’s MasterChef: The Professionals. Or, from one of these fave foodie joints he hangs out in… BEST BREAKFAST? Days off are
sacred when working in the kitchen, so it’s very rare for me to go out. You can’t go wrong with a sausage sandwich, though, made with quality sausages from Andrews in Highworth.
BEST BREW?
UE Coffee in Witney have changed the way I look at tea and coffee. Their wood-roasted coffee beans are amazing, and their unique tea blends, such as Mojito Mint and Blackcurrant Pop, blow Tetley’s out of the park. FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP?
Quick!
Now add this little lot to your contacts book Andrews Quality Meats, Highworth SN6 7AG; andrewsqualitymeatsltd.co.uk UE Coffee Roasters, Witney OX29 7HA; uecoffeeroasters.com Coleshill Organics, Swindon SN6 7PT; coleshillorganics.co.uk The Oxford Wine Company, Standlake OX29 7PR; oxfordwine.co.uk The Trout at Tadpole Bridge, Faringdon SN7 8RF; troutinn.co.uk The Highworth Hotel, Highworth SN6 7HJ; thehighworth.co.uk The Duke of Cambridge, Oxford OX1 2HP; dukebar.com Lords of the Manor, Upper Slaughter GL54 2JD; lordsofthemanor.com The Maybush, Witney OX29 7QD; the-maybush.co.uk The Tame Hare, Leamington Spa CV32 4RJ; thetamehare.co.uk The Churchill Arms, Paxford GL55 6XH; churchillarms.co The Castle, Edge Hill OX15 6DJ; castleatedgehill.co.uk The Gulshan, Shrivenham SN6 8AW Spice Kitchen, Highworth SN6 7AH; spicekitchen-highworth.co.uk Balula’s Delicatessen, Swindon SN1 4AN; balulas.co.uk
Coleshill Organics. We also use them at work, as their produce is outstanding. BEST WINE MERCHANT?
The Oxford Wine Company is one of the best around – great products and great service.
mix of great food and great views, and is perfectly situated right on the River Thames. ONE TO WATCH?
Jonny Mills at The Tame Hare, in my hometown of Leamington Spa, is the one to watch, with his unique spin on British food. COMFORT FOOD?
The Churchill Arms in Paxford, where Chef Nick Deverell-Smith has reinvented the pub and serves up excellent food – the lobster, mac and cheese is a particular favourite! WITH THE FAMILY?
The Castle at Edgehill is an unique, quirky pub to enjoy a drink or bite to eat with your family. BEST CURRY?
The Trout at Tadpole Bridge serves a brilliant Sunday lunch. With the roasting fire and great local ales, it makes for a perfect combination.
The Gulshan in Shrivenham is the best curry I have had since moving to the area. Luckily, they branched out – and opened The Spice Kitchen in Highworth, which is next door to me and serves up an equally good curry!
QUICK PINT?
BEST ATMOSPHERE
The Highworth Hotel has been recently refurbished to a brilliant standard, and is conveniently located close to home!
I do have to say that Restaurant 56 gives off an immense atmosphere. With lots of guests, and wine flights to go with the food, it offers an unbelievable experience, both front and back of house!
SUNDAY LUNCH?
CHEEKY COCKTAIL?
The Duke of Cambridge in Oxford has the best selection of well-made cocktails in the area, and happy hour lasts a long time too! POSH NOSH?
Lords of the Manor, with chef Richard Picard Edwards, is a real treat, and I’ve had a few memorable meals there.
SOMETHING SWEET
I’ll often pop into Balula’s Deli for a coffee and something sweet, such as one of their excellent Portuguese custard tarts. ✱ restaurant56.co.uk
AL FRESCO FEASTING?
The Maybush in Witney has the perfect
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