Crumbs Bath & Bristol - Issue 56 by MediaClash

A little slice of foodie heaven

NO. DECEMBER 2016

ENsuhgaings w R SUR ithll t

Sked wnd a

£3 where sold

c a Pa (

SWEETNESS

AND TOP LOCAL PUDS

BITE

The NiCe List

CURB YOUR CRAVINGS

We've Crimbo Gifts sorted

! ON I SS A P

(TURN TO THE LEFT!)

c ru mb .c om sm ag

! PASSOION ooooh,

(TURN TO THE RIGHT!)

PASSION ROCKS

PASSIITON ! FRU

NO place LIKE FrOmTeHIC

NATUROPAWITH COOKERY W

Eloise Schwerdt

WE ARE THE SPOON SQUAD and WE’RE COMING TO TOWN

ha th t’s Findat? on p out 40

BEEP! BEEP!

BAO DO to As WN i su

an co

Larpkerstarkery in Ce n

S TOOWEE TH! T

CRUMBS BATH & BRISTOL NO.56 DECEMBER 2016

L e EP CIAUE! t R spic S ISS E E nd ce) E D r a ni

SUGAR COATED RECIPES

FROM THE REGION'S COOKS BEST

What’s a lawyer’s favourite pudding? Sue-it!

SWEET ESCAPE WE MIGHT BE hurtling towards the depths of winter at an alarming rate (someone definitely seems to have put the air con on), but, thanks to the way this whole orbiting-on-a-tilt affair works, there’s a counter hemisphere which is hotting up for summer as I write. (Not bitter at all.) This means that, to suppliment the lovely, hearty, wintry ingredients that are kicking around the UK right now, we simultaneously have the likes of passion fruit coming over from altogether more summery climes. Great timing, as our own homegrown fruits are on a bit of a sabbatical. Look out for passion fruit on restaurant menus, then, as good-quality imports are currently in plentiful supply. Passion fruit is also an apt Hero for us this month as you’ll notice a bit of a sweet theme going on. We’ve got dessert recipes from top local chefs and a crave-inducing list of some of the best sticky-fingered treats in Bath and Bristol. (That made for some enjoyable research – we even got to crash the kitchen at gelato joint Swoon, to see how their fancy gelato cakes are made and create our own. We went for chai-spiced gingerbread and pistachio, in case you were wondering...) What else? Well, we’ve been looking ahead to Crimbo, and starting our gift lists (because we all know lists make us feel more productive, regardless of whether we tick anything off or not). Check out our food-inspired pressies for inspo, and spend less time shopping and more time mulling this winter…! APPLE

Jessica Carter, Editor jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk

ANDROID

crumbsmag.com

Crumbs is now an app! You can read all editions of Crumbs – Bath+Bristol, Cotswolds and Devon – on iTunes or Android. Scan the QR codes opposite, search ‘Crumbs’ or go to crumbsmag.com

B ATH & B RIS TOL

Table of Contents

crumbsmag.com

NO.56 December 2016

EDITOR

JESSICA CARTER jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR

MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk CONTRIBUTOR

MARK TAYLOR ART DIRECTOR

TREVOR GILHAM ADVERTISING MANAGER

KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk

STARTERS

DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER

NEIL SNOW neil.snow@mediaclash.co.uk ACCOUNT MANAGER

LORENA CUSSENS lorena.cussens@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER/ PRODUCTION DESIGNER

CHRISTINA WEST christina.west@mediaclash.co.uk

CHEF!

Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE

GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version

08 HERO INGREDIENT We heart this winter import… 12 OPENINGS ETC Yep, it’s another busy month 14 TRIO Kitchenware heroes 16 HIP SHOPS A Bristol institution

large version

MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800 www.mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management.

30 Chocolate with blackberry, by Chris Cleghorn 32 Calvados and prune cake, by Sean Horwood 35 SWEET CHILD OF WINE Chris Staines gives pumpkin the pancake treatment in this sweet treat... ADDITIONAL RECIPES

10 Passion fruit brûlée, by Leigh Evans 24 Cornbread with avocado salsa, by Pinkmans Bakery 45 Corn on the cob with pine nut, turmeric and hempseed rub, by Eloise Schwerdt

crumbsmag.com

KITCHEN ARMOURY 40 CRUMBS COOKS WITH We learn about naturopathic cooking over lunch 47 CRIMBO CRACKERS Our Christmas wish list

MAINS 57 SWEETHEARTS Some of the best sweet treats in Bath and Bristol 63 CULINARY CAUSES StreetSmart is back for 2016 66 GRILLED Local restaurateur and MasterChef hero, Larkin Cen

AFTERS New & notable restaurants, cafés, bars 74 The Bunch of Grapes 77 Hunter & Sons 78 Widbrook Grange 81 Tiffin Time

PLUS 82 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Find out where Bristol foodie, and former chef, Jay McMillan likes to chow down

INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES

MULLINg IT OVER

STALLHOLDERS HAVE BEEN chosen, dates have been finalised, and our hats and scarfs are at the ready: Bath Christmas Market is back this month and we, at least, are gagging for a mug o’ mulled wine. The festive wooden chalets – of which there’s upwards of 150 – will be popping up throughout the centre and down towards The Abbey Hotel in the coming weeks, ready to open for business on 24 November. There’ll be plenty of food and drink on offer, both to take home and wrap up, and to enjoy while you stroll around the stalls, soaking up that Christmas spirit (yep, even you, Scrooges). What’s more, over three-quarters of the market vendors taking part are from the South West – think Seven Hills Chocolates, Bath Ales, Upton Cheyney Chilli Co, Taste of Bath and The Potted Game Company. The Christmas Lodge will be back on Stall Street too, offering a place to go warm up, rest your feet, and get some good food and drink down yer neck. Ideal. ✱ bathchristmasmarket.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

S T A R T E R S

Hero Ingredients

PASSION FRuIT

Amongst the strangest looking denizens of the fruit bowl, and a real polariser – some hate them, many love them – the passion fruit was named for religious as opposed to rampant reasons, but retains some secret superpowers nonetheless… THE PASSION FRUIT’S an odd thing: imagine a brittle, lumpy egg that cracks open to reveal a fascinating, borderline revolting interior of membranous sacks, each full of crunchy seeds and a fragrant, sweet-yet-sour, juicy yellow pulp. It’s strong tasting, amongst the most alienlooking of tropical fruit – and a famous aphrodisiac. (Though, in all honesty, that rep probably comes from a misunderstanding of its name as much as anything else.) Passion fruit is actually a type of berry called a pepo – basically, berries with a hard outer rind – found across South America. It comes from a vine species of the passion flower, named not for saucy reasons but religious ones by Spanish missionaries trying to convert the locals to Christianity. The large white blooms with their purple centres, you see, reminded those guys of Christ’s crucifixion – and the ten petals and sepals (little leaves that look like petals) could be seen as symbolising the ten ‘good’ disciples, omitting mildly treacherous Peter and hugely treacherous Judas. These days it grows not just in Brazil, Argentina et al, but across the Caribbean, Africa, Southern Asia and Australia, even surviving in temperate climates like ours. As you’d expect, passion fruit contains plenty of A and C vitamins – as well as antioxidants, minerals like potassium, and dietary fibre – making it plenty good for us. Though the deep purple (or, in some of the larger varieties, yellow) shells are inedible and naturally wrinkly, becoming even more so as they ripen, the gloopy stuff inside is anything but. Strained, the juice freezes well in an ice cube tray and, to make sure you get as much of it as you can, check the exteriors carefully. Generally, the wrinklier one is, the better it will taste – though you should avoid the very wrinkly, over-ripe ones – and a strong tropical smell is another good sign. Give ’em a shake, too: the more liquid seems to be in there, the juicier it will be.

crumbsmag.com

But what to do with them? Well, the first thing to say is that a little bit of passion fruit goes a long way, but both seeds and pulp make a great addition to many cocktails (Martinis and Margaritas are just the start), and serve well in fruit juices or cordials. And then there are all the jams, jellies, creams, yoghurts, cheese cakes, syllabubs, fruit curds and mousses, too. (A good way to start experimenting with passion fruit: swap it for lemon in one of your favourite desserts.) In a tropical fruit salad, joined by the likes of melon, papaya and pineapple, passion fruit becomes a star, and it pairs well with coffee and chocolate, too. And, like lemon, passion fruit can work in savoury dishes, adoring pork and sweet white fish like sea bass, especially if the recipe has an Asian flavour. Alternatively, like they do in Hawaii, just cut your passion fruit in half and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. (The tough rinds make it a very practical snacking fruit, and it can survive all day in a backpack, delivering a refreshing treat just when you need it.) All very delicious then, if not particularly passioninducing. But wait! Before we go, two things to ponder. First, the leaves – not, sadly, the fruit – of at least one passion flower variety have been shown to make male mice very frisky indeed, perhaps because it contains so much crisin, a testosterone enhancer. And two, a few years ago some students in Bogata, Columbia apparently created ‘the passion pudding’ for a gastronomy fair. It mixed the delicious fruit with Viagra, and one portion was claimed to produce the required effect in males, while females reported that “after a few minutes I started to smile.” Okay, so it was all a bit silly, and rather cheating – but then, aren’t aphrodisiacs all about cheating anyway?

R E C I P E

Hero Ingredients

This is Bath-based chef Leigh Evans – did you know he’s at Combe Grove Manor these days? You do now. And you’re also about to know how to make his passion fruit dessert… THIS BRÛLÉE IS as smooth and creamy in texture as the best of them, but is pimped up with the fresh, exotic flavour of passion fruit, which does a great job of offsetting that richness. You can buy the passion fruit purée from souschef.co.uk, or make it yourself by blending the pulp from fresh passion fruits – although you’ll need a fair few.

PASSION FRUIT BRÛLÉE (SERVES 5)

INGREDIENTS

150g passion fruit purée 125g cream 1 whole egg 3 egg yolks 40g caster sugar, plus extra for topping METHOD – Preheat the oven to 90C/195F. – Heat the purée ’til it reduces by half. – Add the cream and continue heating until it is almost boiling. – In a separate bowl, whisk the egg and egg yolks together with the sugar until

thick. Then, pour the hot cream into the egg and sugar and whisk together. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve into the ramekins. – Put the ramekins into a deep-sided roasting tray. Carefully pour hot water into the tray until it comes about half way up the side of the ramekins. – Place the tray in the oven and cook for around 40 minutes, until just set. – Once cooked, remove from the oven and leave to cool. – Sprinkle the top of each brûlée with sugar. Use a blowtorch to carefully melt the sugar until it’s a dark golden, caramel colour. – Serve in the ramekins (we use rings which we remove), maybe with coconut ice cream and crisp coconut. ✱ COMBE GROVE, Brassknocker Hill, Bath BA2 7HU; 01225 834644; combegrove.com

crumbsmag.com

S T A R T E R S

GIVE US A HAND

The Handmade Burger Co has landed in Bath. This independent, family-run restaurant group has been going for a decade now, and is all about good quality, natural burgers, made from grass-fed Scottish beef which can be traced back to the farms it comes from. You’ll find said patties, in bakerymade buns, on menus that offer 40 different burger options – all of which are made from scratch on site. The new restaurant is open now on Upper Borough Walls. ✱ handmadeburger.co.uk

HOOKED

Rick Stein has arrived in Marlborough – in the shape of a brand new restaurant on the High Street. We’ve been for a gander at Lloran House to see for ourselves how it has been transformed into a stylish 84-cover restaurant (spoiler: think a cluster of several unique dining rooms, all individually designed by Jill Stein). Jack Stein, executive chef for the group, has worked closely with newly appointed restaurant head chef Kevin Chandler on the menus, which retain the focus on fish that Rick and the family are so well known for, but with some rather novel (and altogether more meaty) additions, such as salt pork belly with sauerkraut, and guinea fowl with smoked sausage. ✱ rickstein.com

BIG SHOP

There’s a new way to shop local in Bristol, folks. Good Sixty launched recently, aiming to help local economies thrive, champion neighbourhood independents, and make it easier for people to shop ethically and conscientiously. On the website, customers will find a variety of food businesses, from greengrocers to fishmongers, wine merchants to bakeries – and even cafés and delis. Many offer home delivery, and all have a pick-up service, allowing to you swing by and collect your order swiftly, with no hassle and no waiting around. Punters can either select specific items from their chosen location (with each biz organising its own delivery), or opt for one of their ‘bundles’, such as Source Food Hall’s meat or fish offering, or a West Country dinner party selection from The Bristol Cheesemonger. There are even gin and tonic kits from Psychopomp microdistillery (hint: it’s not that long ’til Crimbo...). ✱ goodsixty.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

Get in on the #CrumbsSnaps hash tagging action and your photo could be featu re here next month! (Exciting, eh?)

GUESS WHO

There’s a new chef in town, but move quickly, ’cause he won’t be around long... Michelin-starred Adam Simmonds has taken over the kitchen at The Bath Priory following Sam Moody’s recent departure, and will be heading up the team of chefs until the end of the year. You might not recognise him from these here parts, but there’s certainly a chance you’ll know his face from off the telly, as he appeared on Great British Menu in 2013 and 2014. Adam’s impressive CV also lists experience working with the likes of Raymond Blanc and Marco Pierre White, and winning Michelin stars in two different establishments in the UK. Known for his fresh, skilful dishes, Adam is serving up set lunch menus as well as a la carte options and a seven-course tasting menu. ✱ thebathpriory.co.uk

THAI’D UP

A new Thai street food restaurant has opened in Bath at the Little Southgate development. This is the ninth venue for Thaikhun – the first in the South West, mind – and takes its inspiration from the street food scene in Thailand. As such, it serves a varied menu that includes everything from soups to stirfries, spring rolls to skewers, and has a colourful, urban design, echoing the bustle of Thailand’s facinating cities. ✱ thaikhun.co.uk

LET’S GET FIZZICAL

Just in case you haven’t noticed, Bristol has a bangin’ pizza scene right now, and it’s set to be celebrated with the city’s first Pizza, Beer and Fizz Festival on 19 November. Five local pizza traders, including Pizzarova, Wood Chop Pizza and Pizza Bike will be providing the grub; indie breweries will be taking care of the beer; and fizz will be poured from Betty, the Pink Prosecco Van. Tickets can be bought from the website below. ✱ foozie.co.uk

CURRIeD AWAY

Nutmeg is the latest addition to the Clifton Village foodie ’hood. Opened at the end of October by Raja Munuswamy, formerly of The Mint Room, its Indian dishes are inspired by the subcontinent’s 29 states – from Kerala in the south to the foothills of the Himalayas – and look to reflect the varied and colourful dining scene. Nutmeg, which is billing itself as the first restaurant of its kind in Bristol, serves both pork and beef – lesser-spotted ingredients on Indian menus. ✱ nutmegbristol.com

crumbsmag.com

@matt_inwood photographs @thethalicafe’s spesh autumn menu

@fruitandveggirl makes an autumna l team lunch

In the diary... (16-19 November) DURTY GURTIES DINING ROOM Arrive at an impressive mystery location by double decker before enjoying threecourses of contemporary British fare and immersive entertainment on this Alice in Wonderland-themed evening; tickets £40, durtygurtiesdiningroom.co.uk (18 November) THE HUNTSMAN SUPPER A menu of warming dishes made from local, seasonal ingredients is on the menu for this event at Backwell House – think venison, pheasant and trout – all cooked by Andy Spooner; tickets £35, backwellhouse.co.uk (7 December) KALPNA WOOLF DEMO AT PAPA DELI Learn how to cook delicious meals with a variety of spices from the author of Spice Yourself Slim, and get to try her creations; tickets £40, papadeli.co.uk

S T A R T E R S

Trio

HOME ON THE RANGE Check out the homeware ranges of these local interiors shops – your kitchen will thank you later... RHUBARB

What do you get when you cross a lawyer who has a good eye and a taste for interiors, and a craftsman who’s all about quality and build? A right good interiors biz, is what. Rhubarb was founded in 2013 by Sue Morgan (said lawyer) and Nick Mitford (said craftsman, at The Kitchen Man) in Clifton Village in Bristol. Said to be smashing sourcers, they can find even the most unusual items for customers, using their contacts, industry knowledge and a little ingenuity. And, if all else fails, they’ll go the whole hog and bloomin’ well make it themselves. Not everything they provide takes so much effort to find, though; just walk into the shop and you’ll see all sorts of items

begging you to take them home. Supplied by local artists and small indie businesses, these guys stock everything from sizeable pieces of furniture to quirky serving kit. One of their fave suppliers is Devonbased Nkuku, which works with artisans all over the world; look out for the Vietnam-made ceramics, created using traditional techniques.

Top left: the guys at Rhubarb make full use of their industry contacts to find stock; top right; these vintage-style glasses are a fave at Homefront; bottom left: The Royal Doulton collection at Leekes is going down well

LEEKES

Vanessa Clark started up Homefront about six months ago, a store which embraces new, vintage, reclaimed, recycled, and handmade items. With such a focus on unique and interesting goods, it’s no wonder that Vanessa is a fleamarket pro. Visiting many a market and well-acquainted with auctions, she always has her beady eye out for artisan makers and intriguing suppliers. In the shop, which is located down the pedestrianised strip among the boutiques and independent cafés of Margaret’s Buildings, you’ll find some of Vanessa’s favourite pieces – like the etched green wine glasses and Champagne flutes that, although new, have a classy vintage feel. Everything is sourced with sustainability in mind – hence all the handmade and recycled pieces. Underneath the shop is a workshop space; Homefront offers classes to help their customers get creative with their interiors, and craft something of their very own.

Leekes, which has a local store in Melksham, as well as installation studios in Thornbury and Swindon, is hardly a newcomer to the kitchen scene. In fact, this family-run affair has been going for over a century (okay, 120 years if you want to get all pernickety about it). It covers all bases, too, from kitchen gadgets and cookware to furniture and even entire kitchens. You’ll spot wellknown cookery brands along the shelves here: think Robert Welch, Le Creuset, Royal Doulton and Kilner. Now, as we gear up for Crimbo, Leekes see their customers’ focus turn to how to fit the whole clan around the table for that all important C-dinner, and make sure they have enough crockery – no one wants to be washing up between courses, do they? The Filigree Silver collection, made from Denby china, is tipped to be especially popular over the festive season, with its lace-look design. The team at Leekes are also excited about The Royal Doulton Pacific collection, with its cool blue designs, and subtle marine theme. Definitely a range to check out...

✱ homefrontinteriors.co.uk

✱ leekes.co.uk

✱ rhubarbhome.co.uk

HOMEFRONT

crumbsmag.com

S T A R T E R S

Hip Shops

BETTER FOOD

“We love The Community Farm in Chew Magna (where our fruit and veg comes from), and The Well Hung Meat Co – its ethics are so in line with ours.” Better Food actually partnered with This year’s been a big ’un for these guys, what with the this Devon-based meat producer recently, rebrand and new store – and there’s still more to come… to create sausages made to Phil’s recipe using outdoor-reared organic pork. These THE BETTER FOOD that we know “We wanted it to reflect our focus on bangers, which are well-seasoned and today is a very different beast to its organic, local and ethical products, but natural in flavour, with a lovely crumbly original incarnation. Phil Haughton keep the brand approachable,” Estef and gristle-free texture, can be spotted on founded the biz back in 1992, as ‘Phil’s Solar, marketing manager, tells us. “The the shelves at all of the stores. Better Food Campaign’ – an organic shop is like a part of our customers’ lives; “We’ve got lots going on for Christmas, home delivery service operated largely they’re protective over it. They feel like it too,” Estef tells us. “Turkeys, meats, from his kitchen at home. belongs to them – and we love that.” cheeses and the chefs’ lentil roasts can be It was nine years later that the first There’s a new website in the making preordered from November. store opened, before moving to its now too, designed to be a hub for “The turkeys are coming from Bishop home in St Werburghs. This site is still the information, resource and Vale in Wrington; Phil has been SHOP SPEC heart of the Better Food outfit, and the conversation around food, to visit them lots. They’re What? Groceries largest of all stores (a Whiteladies Road nutrition and dietary happy, healthy and should be Where? Proving House, branch opened in 2010, and a Wapping requirements – the things lovely and big – although Sevier Street, Bristol BS2 9LB; 0117 935 1725 Wharf site came earlier this year). that their punters, and organic produce is a lot more When? Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; And you can tell, too; when we pop by, indeed shoppers as a difficult to predict, as it’s Sat 9am-6pm; just after school kicking-out time, it’s full whole, are still growing affected by all kinds of factors.” Sun 10am-4pm of families stopping by on the school run increasingly interested in. The range of food here is for groceries or to grab an afternoon “Customers are really contantly evolving, with buyer snack in the café. This is a popular focused on quality,” Estef says. “They Martin always on the look out for new hangout for students and yopros too, who want their fruit and veg fresh and organic products. And the team will soon be sit tapping away on their laptops. – they come here for specific items and introducing their own food labels as well, There have been a few recent reasons. And, it’s important to have good to make shopping for vegan, gluten-free developments here – including the new relationships with suppliers in order to and other requirements a hassle-free branding, which hints at the growth of deliver that – it sounds simple, but really affair. That’s what we like. ✱ betterfood.co.uk the brand and its professional progress. does take a long time to achieve.

crumbsmag.com

S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S

New Kid kid on on the the Block block New Let’s kick off with the fondest foodie memory from your childhood. Making mince pies and jam tarts with my nan. She let me drink beer! We’re surprised you remember, in that case! So, what first inspired you to become a chef? Cod in parsley sauce for one pound was a regular supper for someone who left home quite young and naïve. This totally changed when I watched a chef make a bisque, just out of bits...

BEN PARTY Oh hey, Ben Gray. You’re White Row Farm’s new head chef, no?

How did you approach the menu? I wanted to push things forward by going back to basics; I wanted to take everything from the farm, all that they produce, and let the ingredients speak for themselves. What can we expect from the restaurant, then? The new menu runs morning until evening – breakfast, lunch and supper. Plus, there are some lovely cakes as well – it’s a happy meeting place.

And your first job in a kitchen? Pot washer at the age of 13; I was made to wear the chef’s own whites whilst working – and the chef was very large! Then, when I was 16, I turned up on my bike at the Moon & Sixpence and ended up spending the summer washing up there.

What developments do you hope to make over time? I’ve got so many ideas; owners Steve and Heather allow their staff to develop their work organically, which is great. I would like more events, a pizzeria for our new outside space… the sky’s the limit!

What’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? This one at White Row – it’s the biggest I’ve taken on.

Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in? Yak Yeti Yak in Bath, and the Fox & Badger in Wellow.

Call us crazy, but you look familiar... I was at The Scallop Shell in Bath. I was lucky enough to be taken on by the owner, Garry, when they first opened their fishmongers at White Row; it was a fantastic opportunity to learn about fish, and I will always be grateful to him for that. It took me to stop being a chef, so I could become a fishmonger, to then appreciate being a chef again. Meeting people from behind the fish counter was when the learning really started happening – I got so much information from so many different customers, not to mention the recipes they shared! Amazing.

Your current fave ingredient? Beetroot – it’s wicked!

How would you describe your style of cooking? Rustic, simple, real and tasty. I like to get involved with the food I'm cooking. How did your role at White Row come about? Steve (the owner) offered me a place to store my Russian military lorry to make a pizza waggon... I’m not quite sure what happened, but I’m still here!

Name a piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without. Holly. (She’s one of the chefs!) What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? Rioja in Spain. A friend’s great aunt and uncle (who were in their 80s) had a wine cellar, hand-cut out of a mountain with a shed on top. In 45C heat they cooked us a 12-course supper, which consisted of rabbit, seafood and veg, along with all the wine we wanted. What do you love most about the local food scene? The independent spirit – there’s something unique about it, and it’s done with passion. There are lots of good places in the area, but I do think it’s a bit oversaturated with chains that don't have that individual identity. ✱ whiterowfarm.co.uk

crumbsmag.com crumbsmag.com

S T A R T E R S

Ask the Waitress Who knows the menu best? Who makes the greatest impact on your experience? Front-of-house is your friend!

So, Ella, how long have you worked here? Two years – ever since it opened under the current team. Been in hospitality long? This is actually my first job in the industry. How did you get into it, then? It was time for me to get back to work, with my children having all started school, and I thought this role looked interesting. To work in Lacock is a treat, especially in a 15th-century coaching inn! What do you like most about working in hospitality? The opportunity to meet lots of different people. And what is the best thing about your job at Sign of the Angel? Working with such a fantastic team, who enable me to do what I do best. And the most challenging part? Oh, maintaining a calm exterior even when under pressure – I’m like a duck on water! What kind of relationship does front of house have with the kitchen team here? We are very much a family – there are good days and bad days, of course, but we’re always working together to deliver. What skills have you learnt since starting here? I’ve become more confident, and happy to lead a team. Let’s talk food – what are the restaurant’s bestselling dishes at the moment? Our menu changes regularly, but right now it’s our lamb rump with pearl barley and apricots, alongside the turbot fillet and king prawn cassoulet.

ELLA, ELLA, EH, EH Meet Ella Dorsett, restaurant supervisor at Sign of the Angel

This could be you! Contact us at: jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk

And to wash that down? Our wines are the most popular drinks – I especially love the Picpol for a white, and the Passori Rosso red. Why is this gaff worth a visit, then? It’s a centuries-old building that oozes character and ambiance – plus, we serve amazing food with a smile! What do you think makes great customer service? Being attentive without being over-bearing, and trying to make a difference to people’s days. Where have you visited locally where the customer service was excellent? The new Café Grounded in Melksham. ✱ signoftheangel.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

We’re casting our nets wider in 2017 – expansion to a second deck is on the horizon Follow our voyage @thescallopshell

BEST PUB FOOD

NEW AUTUMN MENU

PUB QUIZ

EVERY TUESDAY STARTS AT 8PM

AMAZING

SUNDAY ROASTS

THE GLOUCESTER OLD SPOT’S SISTER PUB

THE DUCK & WILLOW OPENS IN DOWNEND EARLY DECEMBER 138-140 Kellaway Avenue, Horfield, Bristol BS6 7YQ | hello@theoldspotbristol.co.uk | Tel: 0117 924 7693

WWW.THEOLDSPOTBRISTOL.CO.UK

S T A R T E R S

Kitchen Library The freshest, most inspirational cookbooks of the month

GENNARO’S ITALIAN BAKERY Gennaro Contaldo Pavilion, £20

Best known as Jamie Oliver’s mentor, Gennaro Contaldo has always had a passion for baking. This beautifully illustrated book features 120 recipes for classic Italian breads and baked goods: from focaccia to crostate; savoury to sweet. In the book, Contaldo gives away his secret tips on making the perfect dough to create wonderful Italian breads for all occasions, including his famous focaccia recipe, pizzette, biscuits and cakes. There are recipes for Italian savoury pies that use seasonal ingredients, a section of rustic pane dolce (sweet breads) as well as delicious crostate (sweet pastry tarts), biscuits and traditional cakes. As well as the foolproof pizza dough, we particularly liked the chocolate chip and ricotta loaf cake and chocolatecovered Christmas biscuits.

crumbsmag.com

THE BRISTOL COOK BOOK

SALT IS ESSENTIAL

MADE IN THE OFFICE

This year marks the 50th since Shaun Hill started cooking professionally, and he’s still rattling the pots and pans at the highest level at The Walnut Tree near Abergavenny. Hill is one of Britain’s true food heroes, a culinary giant who avoids TV shows and celebrity, preferring to simply cook for his loyal army of customers. In this book, Hill revisits old classics such as coq au vin, roast goose with red cabbage and fish soup, rump of lamb with potato and olive cakes, and pheasant pudding with sage and bacon, plus his legendary chocolate cake. As opinionated and humorous as ever, this is a book packed with sound cooking techniques and wisdom. It really is an instant classic from a true master.

Architect Rachel Maylor got the idea for this quirky but brilliant little book when she moved to London and found herself in need of office lunch inspiration. Bored of grabbing sandwiches from her local supermarket or eating sugar-laden granola bars, she started to make her own simple, healthy meals in the office kitchen. Not only was it much cheaper and healthier, Maylor’s energy levels improved. This book features 70 quick and healthy dishes you can rustle up during your break with little more than the kettle, toaster and microwave that will invariably form your office kitchen kit. These include turkey and pak choi noodle bowl, toasted berry brioche, and tuna and butterbean salad with lemon dressing. With this book, al desko lunches need never be dreary again.

Shaun Hill Kyle Books, £25

Rachel Maylor Frances Lincoln, £12.99

Meze Publishing, £14.95

The 15th in a series of regional guides by Sheffield’s Meze Publishing, The Bristol Cook Book brings together recipes from some of the best restaurants, cafés, delis, pubs and producers in the city. With an introduction by Bristol-born MasterChef finalist Dean Edwards, the book features 45 recipes from places like Lido, Pinkmans Bakery, Prego, Rosemarino and Spicer + Cole, and is a delicious snapshot of Bristol’s currently thriving food and drink scene. Highlights include the overnight lamb shoulder with slow-cooked cauliflower, roasted sweet peppers and salsa verde from Westbury Park restaurant Manna; pork loin with smoked pig’s cheek and clams from Source Food Hall and Café; and the orange and Earl Grey cake from Ahh Toots in St Nicholas Market.

S T A R T E R S FROM

The Bristol Cook Book (Meze Publishing, £14.95)

BRINDISA: THE TRUE FOOD OF SPAIN Monika Linton 4th Estate, £29.95

Clocking in at over 540 pages, this hefty tome from Monika Linton is one of the most definitive books on Spanish food for years. Linton founded and still runs the food importing business Brindisa, which supplies artisan Spanish products to most of the UK’s best restaurants. What she doesn’t know about Spain, its food and its culture probably isn’t worth knowing. The book covers classic regional recipes and tapas dishes, and provides invaluable information and tips about sourcing the very best ingredients from the finest food producers. The recipes are more home cooking than restaurant in style – think rice with chicken, rabbit and paprika; chickpeas with chorizo; slow-cooked oxtail in red wine and chocolate; and orange and almond cake. A mouthwatering celebration of all things Spanish.

PINKMANS BAKERY CORNBREAD with SMOKED SALMON and AVOCADO SALSA (SERVES 4)

THIS IS A very popular dish on our breakfast menu. We think the flavours and colours combine beautifully here, although the cornbread is a wonderfully versatile partner, also combining well with eggs, bacon and making delicious savoury muffins to be eaten on their own. We bake the cornbread in loaf tins and slice it, but, for home cooking, we have amended it here to make six 100g muffins, as muffin tins and cases are more common in the home kitchen. The cornbread can be baked the day before and refreshed in the oven, or the mix can be made in advance and baked off in the morning. INGREDIENTS

For the cornbread: 150g plain flour 1 tbsp baking powder 1 tbsp caster sugar 4g salt 110g fine polenta 70g mature Cheddar, grated

4 spring onions, finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2 large eggs 60ml olive oil 80ml honey 250g buttermilk For the avocado salsa: 1 ripe avocado 1 tomato, deseeded and finely chopped red onion, finely chopped (to taste) parsley, finely chopped (to taste) lemon, juice and zest (to taste) virgin olive oil (to taste) To serve: smoked salmon crème fraîche METHOD

– Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5 and lightly grease 6 muffin cases. – Start the cornbread: combine the dry ingredients with the

grated cheese, onion and chilli. In another bowl, lightly whisk the eggs and combine with the olive oil, honey and buttermilk. Then, using a whisk, incorporate the wet ingredients into the dry, and mix to a smooth paste. Chill for at least an hour to let the polenta absorb some of the moisture. – Spoon the mixture into the muffin cases and bake for 25 minutes, or until golden and cooked through. – Meanwhile, make the salsa. Dice the avocado and combine it with the finely chopped tomato, red onion, parsley, lemon zest, juice, a few drops of virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. – To serve, cut the cornbread muffin on a slant and pile on the avocado salsa. Top with smoked salmon (the best you can afford), and serve with a side of crème fraîche.

crumbsmag.com

LE P M

SA I

A M T S

R CH

N ME

£22.50 FOR THREE COURSES £17.50 FOR TWO COURSES PRE-BOOKED CRACKERS INCLUDED!

STARTERS

Parsnip, sage & white bean soup served with soda bread (v) Ham hock terrine with a chutney piccalilli & crusty bread Brie & cranberry filo twists with an apple & walnut salad (v)

MAIN COURSES Roast turkey breast filled with cranberry stuffing served with roast potatoes, seasonal veg & a light red wine jus Pan-fried plaice fillet with a warm quinoa & edamame salad (gf) Butternut squash & goats cheese risotto with sage oil (v)

Book your Christmas meal now at

The Catherine Wheel Marshfield, Bath SN14 8LR 01225 892220 roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk

PUDDINGS Traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce Christmas spiced chocolate cake with cream (gf) Clementine cheesecake with orange curd sauce Marshfield Ice Cream Available from Thursday 1st December to 30th December (excl 25th & 26th Dec)

Christmas Day £75 per person

Celebration Menu 2 or 3 course, £22 or £27 per person

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY

New Year’s Eve Top Lane, Whitley, Wiltshire SN12 8QX 01225 704966 T f @peartreewhitley

www.peartreewhitley.co.uk

4 courses £55 per person

or Buffet in the bar £15 per person

Chef! WHAT TO MAKE, AND HOW TO MAKE IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES

Highlights RICHIE RICH Decadent chocolate with warming stem ginger spice Page 30

THEM APPLES

This calvados cake gets a seasonal side in the form of Discovery apple compote Page 32

FLIP OUT

We’re all about the sweet stuff in this issue; hence the need for vanilla in a lot of these here recipes...

A wine match that involves pancakes, butterscotch and a rather memorable sweet white... Page 35

crumbsmag.com

Chef!

crumbsmag.com

Anyone can be a dessert show off with this recipe by Chris Cleghorn…

Choc-a-block Head chef Chris’ skilful grub has won The Olive Tree three AA rosettes – how do you fancy serving up a dessert of that standard at your next dinner party? Happily, Chris has shared this recipe with us, so we can have a go. You will need a few bits of equipment, mind. Firstly, a square or rectangular baking tin or frame (Chris uses a metal frame that’s 15cm x 20cm), as well as a hand blender, sugar thermometer, and sheet of acetate, which you can usually find in craft stores or online.

CHOCOLATE, BLACKBERRY and STEM GINGER (SERVES 4) INGREDIENTS

220g 70% dark chocolate 50g egg yolks 25g sugar 125g semi-skimmed milk 125g whipping cream 10ml crème de cassis 1 large punnet blackberries 1 small jar stem ginger

blend with a hand blender until the mixtue is glossy. Then pour into the lined frame or tin and leave to chill in the fridge for 8 hours. – For the tempered chocolate, slowly melt 75g of the remaining chocolate in the same way as before, to 36C/97F. Remove from the heat, then add the last 25g of chocolate and mix well. Cool to 28C/82F, then warm to 30C/86F. – Pour onto the acetate sheet and spread as thinly as possible. Allow this to set in a cool place. Once set, peel off the acetate and freeze until needed. – Add the cassis to the blackberries, along with some sugar if needed, and cut the ginger into small batons, 2mm thick. – To serve, cut the set chocolate cream (you can place in the freezer for 30 minutes prior to this step to make it easier to cut), and place a portion in the centre of each plate. Top with blackberries and a few batons of stem ginger. Break the tempered chocolate into shards and add on top. Serve straight away. ✱ THE OLIVE TREE, The Queensberry Hotel, 4-7 Russell St, Bath BA1 2QF; 01225 447928; olivetreebath.co.uk

METHOD

– Line the cake frame or tin with greaseproof paper. – Bring a pan of water to the boil. Place a heatproof bowl over the top (making sure it’s not touching the water) to form a bain-marie, and gently melt 120g of the chocolate in there. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until pale. – Bring the milk and cream to the boil in a pan before pouring onto the yolks, whisking continuously. Return to the pan and cook slowly to 85C/185F. Pour into a bowl and cool to 50C/122F. – Whisk the melted chocolate into the custard mix. Add a pinch of salt and

crumbsmag.com

A Grape Match!

With wine writer Angela Mount Bertani Recioto Valpolicella £23, Great Western Wine “Chris’ decadent, rich dessert calls for a sweet wine of similar stature. This number matches up in terms of opulence and intensity. An indulgent red dessert wine from northern Italy, it is berry-scented and jam-packed with black cherry and blackberry fruit, with luscious notes of sweet spice and mocha, which help showcase each element of the dessert.”

Chef!

crumbsmag.com

Jelly belly Sean Horwood is making the most of this season’s apples in a dessert that you can serve with a side of smug face… Sean is head chef at The Restaurant at Centurion Hotel, which is on the edge of the Mendip Hills in Radstock. He and his team use ingredients that are at their best and in plentiful supply – as this timely recipe shows. Sean is loving Discovery apples at the moment, which are some of the season’s earliest to be harvested and so are now waiting to be snapped up. He reckons it’s worth getting hold of this specific variety if you can – they’re great at the moment. Ideal for cooking, eating fresh and juicing, they have a flavour that balances sharpness with sweetness, and so lend themselves to a refreshing but comforting dessert such as this one.

50ml Calvados 200g Demerara sugar 300g flour 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp baking powder 200g ground almonds 300g butter 5 eggs 200g prunes, soaked overnight in Calvados

CALVADOS and PRUNE CAKE with APPLE COMPOTE AND APPLE JELLY

To serve: clotted cream ice cream

(SERVES 8) INGREDIENTS

For the jelly: 5g slow set pectin (Sean gets his from msk-ingredients.com) 215g granulated sugar 150g apple juice 50g glucose apple flavour drops 4g citric acid For the cake: 50ml apple juice 220g honey

crumbsmag.com

For the compote: 6 Discovery apples, peeled and chopped 1 cinnamon stick 50g sugar 50g butter 1 vanilla pod

texture. Add the eggs slowly, incorporating each one before adding more, and then add the honey mixture. Pour into the tin and scatter the prunes over the top. Bake for 30-40 minutes. – For the compote, put all the ingredients in a heavy-based pan and cook over a medium heat, adding a splash of water if needed, until it starts to catch and caramelise (roughly 15 minutes). Set aside to cool. – To serve, cut the jelly into squares, and the cake into rectangle portions. Place a slab of cake on each plate, alongside a square of jelly and spoonful of compote. Add a scoop of clotted cream ice cream on top of the cake, and serve. ✱ THE RESTAURANT at THE CENTURION HOTEL, Charlton Lane, Radstock BA3 4BD; 01761 417711; centurionhotel.co.uk

METHOD

– For the jelly, first line a tray with cling film, then combine the pectin with 10g of the sugar. Place the apple juice into a large pan, add the pectin mixture and then bring to the boil. Add the remaining sugar and the glucose, then boil until the mixture reaches 106C/223F. – Remove the pan from the heat and stir in a few apple drops and the citric acid. Pour into the tray and leave to set. – For the sponge, preheat the oven to 175C/335F/gas mark 3 and line a rectangular cake tin. – Boil the juice, honey, Calvados and sugar until the sugar is melted. Set aside. – Separately, mix the dry ingredients with the butter to form a breadcrumb

A Grape Match!

With wine writer Angela Mount Dupont Calvados VSOP £42.50, Great Western Wine “In Normandy, locals will drink ‘un petit coup’ (a little shot) of Calvados with dessert, especially when it includes apples. This number comes from one of the oldest family producers in the region. Rich and scented with raisin, baked apples and floral notes, its sweet, toffee apple, caramel and wild herb characters are perfect with the sweet intensity of the prunes and tang of the baked apples.”

C H R I S

S T A I N E S

Sweet Child of Wine

Hello, pumpkin

Chris Staines is getting in on the sweet action this month… I have a terrible memory. I forget appointments I’ve made, family birthdays, I forget to take the washing out of the machine (sometimes for days!), and have reminders set on my phone for literally everything. I struggle to remember things that happened only the day before, and there are recipes in my many scribbled books, which I have used weekly or even daily for many years, but still have to look up every single time. This week, though, something remarkable happened. We hosted a wine dinner in Allium restaurant with Great Western Wine, to mark the 40th anniversary of The Judgement of Paris.* I knew long before the event that it was going to be a special evening, with 10 wines to taste through the course of the dinner, including numbers from Kooyong, Domaine Leflaive, Stag’s Leap, Morgenster and even Mouton Rothschild. So there was a real buzz of excitement as we rushed around, getting the food ready. The starters and mains went out smoothly, and I was feeling pretty happy, having managed to get my hands on a drop of each of the amazing wines we were serving... Then came the dessert, and that’s when it happened – a eureka moment. As the last desserts left the kitchen, someone appeared with the accompanying wine for me: Patricius Tokaji Asu 6 Puttonyos 2003. This was a wine which I knew I liked, as I’d tasted it a couple of times previously. However, what I wasn’t prepared for was the sudden

and vivid memory which hit me when I took my first sip. I was suddenly a young chef again, standing in the kitchen of Marco Pierre White’s then flagship three-Michelinstarred restaurant, The Oakroom in Piccadilly. I can’t remember the exact details of how we came to be tasting the wine (surprise, surprise), but I did remember the feeling when I took a sip, as the sommelier explained how it was made, the liquid coating my mouth with its unctuous caramel warmth. It was that moment in time, when I think about it, which sparked my now long-standing and amazingly rewarding love affair with wine. With that small glass of liquid gold, the sommelier had unwittingly lit a flame within me, which burns just as fiercely to this day. That is why, for my wine choice this month, I had to choose the Tokaji. It isn’t cheap – that’s for sure – but if ever you’re looking for a great special occasion drink then you can’t go wrong with this. My accompanying recipe is something a bit sticky and sweet, as the wine screams for caramel and vanilla (perfect, seeing as this month’s issue happens to be something of a sweet-toothed affair). As it’s November, many of us will have the ubiquitous carved pumpkin sat in the window, so I decided that to come up with a dish that both complements the wine, and also will help you use up some of that pumpkin flesh which is probably sat in Tupperware in the fridge… ✱ Chris Staines is head chef at Allium at The Abbey Hotel in Bath, where he also hosts regular supper clubs. For more information and tickets visit abbeyhotelbath.co.uk

*Judgment of Paris is the name for The Paris Wine Tasting of 1976: a wine competition in which French judges carried out blind tastings. Californian wine rated best in each category, which caused huge upset and surprise, as France was generally regarded as being the foremost producer of the world’s best wines. Awks.

crumbsmag.com

PUMPKIN PANCAKES WITH SALTED PECAN CARAMEL AND VANILLA ICE CREAM (SERVES 4- 6)

INGREDIENTS

For the pancakes: 200g pumpkin or squash, peeled, de-seeded and chopped into chunks 2 eggs 3 tbsp soft brown sugar 25g melted butter 125ml double cream 220g plain flour 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp baking powder vanilla ice cream, to serve

For the salted pecan butterscotch: 50g pecans, roughly chopped 50g butter 50g light brown soft sugar 1 tsp sea salt flakes 100ml double cream ½ a vanilla pod, seeds scraped out

METHOD

– Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. – Put the pumpkin or squash into a heatproof bowl, add 1 tbsp water, cover with cling film and microwave on high for 5-8 minutes, or until really soft. (You could also boil them, if you don’t have a microwave.) – Once cool, put the pumpkin in a food processer with the remaining pancake ingredients and add a good pinch of salt. Blend until everything is well combined to a smooth, thick batter. Transfer to a jug or piping bag and set aside while you make the butterscotch sauce. – Lightly toast the pecans in the oven until golden, then remove and set aside. – Add the butter, sugar, salt and cream to a saucepan with the vanilla seeds and the scraped pod. Bring to a simmer, and then bubble gently for a few minutes until you have a golden brown shiny sauce. Stir in the pecans and set aside to cool a little. – Now cook the pancakes. Warm a little oil or butter in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and place small ladle full of mix in. Leave until you see bubbles appearing on the surface of the mix, then gently lift up one edge and, if the pancake is nice and golden, flip over to cook the other side (about 2-3 minutes). Do this in batches and transfer the cooked pancakes to the baking tray and keep warm in the oven while you continue cooking. – Once cooked, pile the pancakes onto plates, top with ice cream, and pour over the salted pecan butterscotch sauce.

WINNER

best seafood

“The food has a really authentic edge”

“Local gem” Waitrose Good Food Guide 2015, 2016, 2017

ITALIAN AND SARDINIAN SPECIALITIES 7 Edgar Buildings, George Street, Bath Tel: 01225 443900 Email: info@aiorestaurant.co.uk Online: www.aiorestaurant.co.uk Aió Sardinia Restaurant & Bar

@AioRestaurant

( advertising feature )

A cut above...

SEASONAL SLURPS

So, think cider’s just for summer, eh? Here’s where we introduce you to your new fave winter tipple...

Enjoy Christmas with a touch of Indian magic Christmas menu • 2 courses £30 • 3 courses £35 12-16 Clifton Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1AF Tel: 01173 291300 Longmead Gospel Hall, Lower Bristol Road, Bath BA2 3EB Tel: 01225 446656 Email: info@themintroom.co.uk www.themintroom.co.uk

he harvest is in full swing now. People always want to know the names of our cider apples and we can see why – there are so many different varieties. Dabinett, Tom Putt, Brown’s Apple, varieties. Tremlett’s Bitter, Hangy Down, Slack Ma Girdle, Fair Maid of Devon, Ellis Bitter – you name them, we pick them! We can’t see the moment both ground for these apples at the moment, in the orchards and the yard. Which is great news – this suggests it’s going to be a really good harvest this year, with nice juicy apples, and lots of them. Not only are we picking them ourselves, but we’re getting them in thick and fast from surrounding old orchards too, meaning lots of cider is promised for this coming year. But you needn’t wait until summer to slurp on a good apple-based brew – this is a drink to be enjoyed all year round. During these chillier months, try our Mulled and Spicy Ashridge Artisan Cider. This warming, spicy, mulled cider will hit the spot on a cold winter’s night. To make it, we’ve added festive spices (cloves, cinnamon, star anise and ginger) to our Devon Gold Cider, with the result being a fruity, comforting and very drinkable tipple. Heat gently and serve straight away by a log fire with the back door closed and your feet up.

ashridgecider.co.uk; @AshridgeCider; 01364 654749

Bar • Kitchen Dining

Lunchtime Festive Menu 2 courses £19.95, 3 courses £23.95 Christmas Evening Festive Menu 2 courses £23.50, 3 courses £28.50

EENHO

AT THE GREENHOUSE IT’S

CHRISTMAS TIME

Join us at The Greenhouse Restaurant this Christmas and enjoy the festive party season in a relaxed and stylish setting, the perfect destination to share in the celebrations with your family, friends and colleagues too. We’ll be offering a 2 or 3 course festive fayre (£20pp for 2 courses or £24pp for 3 courses) available for lunch and dinner from 28 November – 24 December. We’ll also be open on Christmas Day for a gourmet dining experience and on Boxing Day for classic brunch and gastro pub lunch dishes. For more information visit www.thegreenhousewg.co.uk FESTIVE OPENING HOURS CHRISTMAS EVE open for lunch and dinner, normal opening hours CHRISTMAS DAY open 11am - 5pm BOXING DAY open 11am - 6pm 27 TO 30 DECEMBER normal opening hours NEW YEAR’S EVE normal opening hours - ‘til late NEW YEAR’S DAY 11am - 6pm Booking during the festive period is essential

The new winter menu has arrived at the Greenhouse, full of ﬂavour and delicious dishes. You can ﬁnd the new menu on our website New www.thegreenhousewg.co.uk WINTER or visit our Facebook page. MENU

WIN A A ND M A BO TTLE O

EA L

O HOUSE FOR T W

REEN F PROSECCO AT THE G

Choose your favourite dish from our new winter menu and tag the friend you would like to dine with. Visit our Facebook page /TheGreenhouseWG to be in with a chance of winning. Entries will close at 12 noon on Friday 4th November 2016. Winner will be announced the same day. Prize is for 2 people dining from the new winter menu – two main courses and a bottle of prosecco.

TRY FREE EN ING AND PARK TO THE IR FA CRAFT

WADSWICK GREEN WELCOMES YOU TO THEIR

WINTE

R CRAFT FAIR

Christmas Evening Festive Menu TO START Wiltshire Ham & Pea Broth topped with minted cream Potato & Aubergine Press with soft goats cheese and homemade quince jelly Corned Beef Hash topped with free range fried hens egg & HP sauce Home cured Gin & Beetroot Gravadlax with Alison’s cucumber pickle (by ‘eck it’s good) & Dijon mustard sauce Crab & Lobster Twice Baked Soufflé with lobster bisque & Gruyere THE MAINS Confit of Brisket of Beef slow roasted and topped with horseradish crumble, a Yorkshire pudding filled with roasted root vegetables, a fondant potato & rich roast gravy Roast Pheasant Breast with its legs braised in a little pie, a creamed root vegetable mash & a ragout of brussels & chestnuts Supreme of Chicken with a Christmas dinner fritter, maple syrup roasted vegetables & rich roast gravy Parsnip & Sweet Potato Gnocchi with a Lancashire cheese & onion sauce, topped with roasted chestnuts & served with buttered peas Seared Cod Fillet topped with Lancashire rarebit, on slow roasted tomato, potato rosti & a basil butter sauce Mustard Glazed Ham with a sprout & bacon potato cake, brace of fried hens eggs & buttered peas Church Farm Fillet of Beef on fondant potato with bourguignon sauce, savoy cabbage & Christmas carrots (£5 supp.) OUR PUDDINGS The George’s Sticky Christmas Pudding with hazelnut shard & salted caramel ice cream Calvados & Apple Crème Brulée with a poached pear in mulled wine syrup & spiced Christmas biscuit Chocolate Fondant Pudding with a coffee espresso anglaise & caramel oranges Lemon Posset with iced strawberry parfait Selection of Ripe Cheeses with sauternes soaked grapes, our Christmas chutney, warm walnut bread & a slice of George’s Christmas cake

SPANISH SUPPER Friday 9th December • £35 per person 4 course Spanish menu, dessert accompanied by a complimentary glass of Vilarnau Cava. The perfect party evening.

FRIDAY 11 NOV 12PM – 8PM & SATURDAY 12 NOV 10AM – 3PM

Join us for the ultimate marquee shopping experience – quality locally handmade products and a chance to win some fabulous prizes from our charity raffle in support of Dorothy House Hospice Care. The Greenhouse Restaurant is open Mon-Sat from 9am-11pm and Sun 10am-8pm (last orders at 6pm).

You can reserve a table at any time by calling us on 01225 585880 or book online at www.thegreenhousewg.co.uk THE GREENHOUSE RESTAURANT THE PAVILION | WADSWICK GREEN | CORSHAM SN13 9RD

TO BOOK CALL

01225 865650

67 Woolley St, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1AQ info@thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk

thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk

Kitchen

Armoury CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS

DREAM STEAM Water your oven, and it will thank you, says Matt Bielby. At least, it will if it’s one of these clever contraptions from Miele… What’s this crazy lady doing? Giving her oven a nice little drink? Or filling her glass from the weirdest of taps? (I just don’t get it.) What she’s doing, my friend, is taking full advantage of Miele’s new Moisture Plus oven, which allows for extra-excellent baking and roasting, thanks to the steam that’s injected into the oven cavity each time you cook. Just tell the oven what you’re doing, add the required amount of water through the intake pipe, as seen – it’s usually between 150-300ml – and then select the type of steam enhancement you want: automatic bursts, manual bursts if you want to be really hands-on, or time-controlled for total precision. (Turns out she’s not crazy after all.) Well, okay – I suppose. I still don’t get what the steam is meant to do, though. It makes cooking better. With meat, it helps it brown while remaining succulent and tender. And with croissants or bread rolls, they apparently look and taste like they’re fresh from the bakery – thanks to one blast of steam at the start to help with the rise, and another at the end to help them brown.

THIS MONTH crumbsmag.com

STEAMIN’

If it’s so great, why don’t all ovens do it? Maybe one day they will, but right now this tech is exclusive to Miele, the familyrun outfit who’ve been making highend appliances in German’s industrial Westphalia region since 1899. (They’ve won Which? magazine’s Best Domestic Appliance Brand award loads of times, including 2015 and 2016.) Even without the Moisture Plus function this would be a great oven – well built, precise (you can cook at everything from 30-300C, with less than one degree variance), roomy, and even self-cleaning, thanks to an automatic process that reduces any residue in the oven to ash.

FROME-MADE

Not that I ever clean my oven anyway, but I like the sound of that. Yep! Miele ovens are available all over, including John Lewis, but one cool way to find out more is to visit the Miele Experience Centre at Abingdon, just off the A34 in Oxfordshire, where you can get really hands on with the kit – including, yes, feed one with a glass of water.

✱ This Miele Moisture Plus oven costs £1,069. Find it at John Lewis at Cribbs Causeway, Horders in Bristol, Coopers in Bath and other dealers; miele.co.uk

PRESENT TENSE

crumbsmag.com

Crumbs cooks with

Frome comforts We drop in to help prep (okay, and eat) lunch with private chef and naturopathic cook Eloise Schwerdt, and talk about alternative cooking that’s not so much ‘out there’ as it is ‘in our bellies’… Words by JESSICA CARTER Photos by ANIL ILTAS

crumbsmag.com

COMING SOON 10 The Mall | Clifton | BS8 4DR

info@nutmegbristol.com

loise dollops a spoonful of butternut squash purée into a glass flute and tops it up with Prosecco. We’re half watching as she shakes in Angostura bitters, and half making eyes at a four-storey, nasturtiumflower-topped cake sat on the counter. We’re in a lovely light kitchen in Frome, overlooking one of the cobbled streets that the Frome Independent market pops up on each month. Eloise – a private chef, currently studying naturopathy in Bristol – only moved in 12 days ago, but it already looks feels nice and lived-in: soft sheepskins from her parents’ Somerset farm are draped over the back of the dining chairs, a marble chopping board on display has Eloise’s name engraved in it, and the kitchen smells of homecooking. Indeed, Eloise has already got cracking on lunch; a hearty-looking vegetable broth is bubbling on the stove, and a pestle and mortar sits on the table filled with a delicious-smelling pestotype mix. As Eloise hands us our butternut squash Bellini (the purée having been made in her prized Vitamix blender) we ask her about her background in food.

( crumbs cooks with )

Eloise pounds together ingredients for her corn on the cob rub

“After travelling through Asia and living off street food, I came back planning to go into food photography and styling,” she says. “Then I got offered two jobs: one as a photographer’s assistant, and one in a Michelin-starred restaurant as chef de partie. Working in a Michelin-starred kitchen was such an opportunity – I had to take that one. “After that, I started doing dinner parties and working as a private chef in places like Morocco, Greece and Sri Lanka, using whatever ingredients were available to cook with.” Now, Eloise is in the second year of her diploma in naturopathic

crumbsmag.com

( crumbs cooks with )

nutrition, she explains, standing over the stove, stirring her broth. “With this qualification you can practice as a nutritionist, helping to treat conditions with food and diet where medicine hasn’t worked. We learn about ancient philosophy and the histories of different food cultures, and look at how the ancient Greeks and Chinese ate.” By this point, we’re stuggling to avoid a certain subject; we have to bring up that cake. “It’s made from two different sponges – vanilla and maca, and beetroot and pomegranate – sandwiched with a blueberry chia seed jam and cashew yoghurt. I’m into what I suppose you’d call alternative baking,” Eloise says. And she’s got plenty of experience in it, too. “I used to work at Nama – it’s a 100-percent raw restaurant in London. I learnt a lot there. “For the cake topping and filling I left the cashews to ferment before blending up – that’s what gives it a tangy flavour, like you’d get with cream cheese.” We take our seats for lunch while Eloise ladles out the steaming broth. The glass table is covered with a colourful spread; golden corn topped with that pesto-esque mix sits alongside a plate of grilled courgette with lentils, lemon and nasturtium leaves (taken from the flowers that are now on top of that cake

We left Eloise’s feeling good and nourished, and prepared for the early winter germs that do the rounds this time of year

and floating in our Bellinis), and those bowls of vibrant green broth, warm with wintry spices, in which hunks of leek, celery and carrot swim. So, Eloise’s own diet clearly isn’t completely raw, then? “I don’t think it’s always best to go totally raw,” she explains, “but I do think we should be doing it more than we perhaps conventionally do. “I’m not vegan, but I have been and do still eat vegan a lot of the time – it’s nice to cook that way without feeling like you’re missing out on meat or processed ingredients. I do eat meat when I know where it comes from. There’s an amazing butcher near my parents’ farm

in Somerset – Bonner’s – which I love, and we actually sell our sheep to them.” We’re digging that corn – the topping is less loose and oily than a traditional pesto, although the fresh, punchy flavours are really similar. One of the ingredients is nutritional yeast – dry, beige flakes with an almost Parmesanlike flavour. We’re literally eating the leftovers by the spoonful. We know what you really want to know, though, and yes, we do get to tuck into that cake – with a good ol’ cuppa, an’ all. Bliss. Then we take our leave back down the cobbled streets of Frome, feeling inspired by Eloise’s alternative culinary conduct…

crumbsmag.com

CORN ON THE COB with PINE NUT, NUTRITIONAL YEAST, TURMERIC and HEMP SEED RUB (SERVES 4)

This dish is not only really tasty but totally nutritious: tumeric is an incredible antiinflammatory; hemp seeds are a complete protein (and the most nutritious seed there is!), and nutritional yeast flakes are full of lots of B vitamins which usually get lost in cooking processes. INGREDIENTS

150g pine nuts 2 cloves of garlic 6 sprigs of lemon thyme, leaves picked 1 tsp turmeric 1 tbsp harissa paste 3 tbsp nutritional yeast 50g hemp seeds 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped ½ lemon, juice only 4 corn on the cobs 2 tbsp coconut oil METHOD

– First toast the pine nuts over a medium heat in a dry pan, being careful to not let them burn. Set aside. – In a pestle and mortar, pound the garlic with the thyme, turmeric and a pinch of sea salt (I use Himalayan sea salt) until it forms a pasty consistency. – Add the harissa paste, nutritional yeast flakes, hemp seeds, parsley and two thirds of the pine nuts, then continue to pound until all the ingredients have mixed together and it forms a dry pesto-type rub. – Season with freshly cracked black pepper and the lemon juice. – Next, bring a pot of water to the boil and add a pinch of sea salt. Cook the corn on the cob in the water for 3-5 minutes. – Once cooked, rub the coconut oil onto the corn, roll in the rub and sprinkle with the remaining pine nuts. Enjoy whilst still warm!

crumbsmag.com

Bristol & Bath Hampers The ďŹ nest food and drink from independent Bristol and Bath producers

Available in store or order online for delivery throughout the UK Arch House Deli Arch House, Boyces Avenue, Clifton Village, Bristol, BS8 4AA 0117 974 1166 enquiries@archhousedeli.com www.archhousedeli.com shop.archhousedeli.com

X-rated Mains

We present to you Xmas-worthy gifts for everyone on the nice list: from kids to parents, BFFs to boyfriends, and even colleagues you’ve never actually met before. (How did you get roped into the office Secret Santa again?)

Gifts up to

£10 1 YOU GOUDA BE KIDDING No need to think too Caerphilly about a present for that cheese-lover – none of these 64 jokes will grate (ahem) on them; Cheesy Jokes, £6.50, cotswoldtrading.com 2 WOLF PACK Let us introduce you to the Howler – a way of getting three cans (that’s a whole litre) of some of the country’s best craft brews to your (or, in this case, your recipient’s) door; Wild Beer Co Mixed Howler, £7.10, honestbrew.co.uk 3 TELLING YORKIES Know someone who goes mad for Yorkshire puds? Silly question? This Yorkie set will make their day – and perhaps also their Xmas lunch; Yorkshire Pudding Gift Set, £10, Garden Trading at Kilver Court, gardentrading.co.uk 4 GO NUTS Sweet caramel + salty whole peanuts = a gift that might not actually make it to the pile under the tree (but you won’t even feel guilty, we bet); Peanut Brittle, £6, Fudge Kitchen in Bath, fudgekitchen.co.uk 5 I CARRIED A WATERMELON What do you get when you cross food with jewellery? A super-cute failsafe Xmas gift, if this example is anything to go by; Watermelon Necklace, £7.50, Mon Pote in Bristol, monpote.co.uk

6 SPROUT AND ABOUT Kids might not like sprouts, but they’ll probably dig these comedy glasses on the big day; Sprout Festive Glasses, £3.99 for 6, from Lakeland in Bath and Bristol (at The Mall, Cribbs Causeway), lakeland.co.uk

7 FORGET ME NOT Gift this magnetic fridge memo board, showing the Royal Crescent in Bath, to that forgetful friend who always seems to have run out of snacks when you drop in for a cuppa; Bath Magnetic Fridge Memo Board (Bristol versions also available), £8.99, emmelinesimpson.co.uk

8 DOG HOUSE The makers of these treats donate to Dogs Trust with each purchase, so you’re getting double doggy Brownie points, right? The handmade biccies come in three flavours, too – peanut butter, cheese and chive, and beetroot; Doggy Biscuit Treats, £6.95, biscuiteers.com

Under a fiver! 6 7

9 IN A SPIN One of good food’s greatest pals is good music, and these coasters will go down well with anyone who agrees; Vinyl Record Coasters, £9.50, Found in Bath, foundbath.co.uk

10 BENEFIT OF THE SPROUT Know someone who doesn’t eat their greens (*finger waggle*)? Well, chances are they’ll give these particular Somerset-produced ones a go – mainly ’cause they’re made of silky white Belgian choc; Chocolate Sprouts, £9.99, choconchoc.co.uk

For your pet!

Want more? Up to £30

crumbsmag.com

( feature )

14 11

11 POTTY FOR CHRISTMAS Colourful dinosaurs or dancing mice-themed crockery sets make dinnertime fun for little ones; Emma Bridgewater Pottery Sets, £29.95, emmabridgewater.co.uk 12 TEA TIME Give the gift of a great brew – and a customised tin brandishing your festive message of choice, to boot; Personlised Tea Tin, from £15, bluebirdteaco.com 13 BOX FRESH A naughty mix of ganaches and truffles, handmade in Bath using local butter and cream; Box of 16 Handmade Chocolates, £13, Seven Hills at Bath Farmers’ Market, sevenhillschocolate.co.uk 14 FOR THE GIN Espensen Spirit is a Bristolbased start up that makes flavoured spirits with fresh fruit, and the raspberry gin is a particular fave A donation from each sale will go to Caring in Bristol too, to support work with the homeless – now that’s Christmas spirit; Pump Up The Jam Raspberry Gin 50cl, £29.50, Independent Spirit in Bath, espensenspirit.com 15 BEER TODAY Go on, ditch the usual prezzie of novelty socks for a cask (that’s nine whole pints worth) of Bath Ales’s flagship brew this year; Gem Microcask £17.95, Bath Ales Brewery Shop in Warmley, bathales.com

Gifts up to

£30

16 YOU’RE BOOKED This interactive volume will have young foodies creating their own menus, dreaming up their perfect pizza, and learning about good grub in the process – what’s not to like?; Playing With Food: An Activity Book, £11.95, howkapow.com

17 LOVELY BUBBLY We asked the Grape & Grind team what liquid gifts we should be giving this festive season, and this was what they came up with – a great Christmas Day celebration wine, and a top example of English sparkling; Balfour Leslie’s Reserve NV Sparkling Wine, £29.99, Grape & Grind in Bristol, grapeandgrind.co.uk

For the kids! 18

18 TAKES THE BISCUIT Make the most of the Crimbo holidays, and get baking with the kids before they’re back at school – this ace stocking filler will make it extra fun; Gingerbread Biscuit Mix Kit, £10.50, cookiecrumbles.co.uk 19 CHOCCA If a box of white, dark and milk Belgium chocolate truffles with delicious toppings isn’t well received from under the tree, then, heck, we don’t know what will be; Godiva Truffle Box, £23, godivachocolates.co.uk

Want more? Up to £50

crumbsmag.com

The A W

FARM SHOP & DELI

ES VEG BOX R TO ORDE

F I SH M ON G ER S & BU TC H ER S

FLORISTS BARN RECLAMATION

RE ST AU RA NT

FISH &

CHIPS

T GIF S HOP

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING DAY

DID YOU KNOW THAT WE ALSO HAVE A

1ST DECEMBER 3-8PM

JUST 20 MINUTES FROM BATH

WWW.WHITEROWFARM.CO.UK

Seven Hills is a small, independent chocolate business making fresh, handmade chocolates, chocolate bars and other chocolate gifts in Newton St. Loe, Bath.

Come and find us at: Bath Farmer’s Market Green Park Station, every Saturday till 1.30

Bath Christmas Market Abbey Churchyard, from 24th November

Selected quality independent shops and cafes in and around Bath

www.sevenhillschocolate.co.uk sales@sevenhillschocolate.co.uk

Vale House Kitchen is a bespoke country skills and cookery school situated in the village of Timsbury 8 miles southwest of Bath. We will be oﬀering all the traditional courses you would expect from a cookery school but will have the added dimension of teaching skills such as ﬁshing, shooting, foraging and butchery.

CHRISTMAS VOUCHERS NOW AVAILABLE November 12th – Edible Gifts

November 25th – Pig Butchery

December 10/11th – Shooting and Game Experience

01761 470401 | info@valehousekitchen.co.uk

www.valehousekitchen.co.uk

( feature )

Gifts up to

£50 20 DIY DAIRY You can make eight types of cheese using this one kit – but sorry, they probably won’t be ready for the Crimbo night supper; The Ultimate Cheese Making Kit, £36, souschef.co.uk 21 ESPRESSO YOURSELF New in for Xmas are these espresso cups for cool coffee drinkers who love a bit of quirk; Make International Espresso Cups, £39.99, from Vinegar Hill in Bath and Bristol, vinegarhill.co.uk

22 THE Bs’ KNEES Some of Bath and Bristol’s best native produce – from beer to cooking condiments, sweets to chutneys – all snuggled together in a handsome wicker hamper (alternative sizes range from about £25-£100); Bath and Bristol Hamper, £50, Arch House Deli, shop.archhousedeli.com

26 25

23 GET YOUR PLATES ON This magic device, conceived by a Bath-based biz, miraculously silences cakeinduced squabbles by making sure all slices are equal – let there be no scowling faces on C-Day; Colonel D.S Bradley's Patent Cake Plate & Divider, £35, cakeplate.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

24 MIX IT UP Know a keen mixologist, or want to hint to someone that it’s been a fair while since they invited you around for drinks? This is the gift you’ve been looking for; Gold Cocktail Shaker, Rossiters of Bath, rossitersofbath.com 25 BLADE RUNNER It won’t be long before these bad boys can be put to good use – bring on the Boxing Day cold spread!; Pro Threepiece Cheese Knife Set, £45, Paxton and Whitfield in Bath, paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk 26 DAILY GRIND A sleek Rhinowares grinder, Origin coffee beans and handy brewing guide makes topquality freshly ground coffee attainable, every morning; Hand Grinder Gift Set £50, origincoffee.co.uk 27 FUNKY GIBBON No wonder this monkey looks so jolly – we would be, too, if we had a bottle of wine the same height as us; Monkey Bottle Holder, £39.95, Graham and Green in Bath, grahamandgreen.co.uk 28 CORE BELIEFS Thatcher’s is branching out with its apples, and has created this crisp, citrusy gin – just in time for Crimbo Handy, eh?; Apple Gin £33.99, Thatcher’s cider shop in Winscombe, thatcherscider.co.uk Want more? Over £50

( feature ) 30

Great for two!

Gifts over

£50

31 33

29 STICK TO YOUR GUNS This nifty bit of kit is great for hassle-free cold smoking – try using it on cheese or even a wintry cocktail; The Smoking Gun, £59.95, Lakeland, lakeland.co.uk 30 GEE WHIZZ A blender with serious swag, this dude laughs in the face of your regular Nutribullet It not only has the most powerful motor the brand makes, but also heating capabilities for making soups; Nutribullet RX, £199.99, Steamer Trading in Wells, steamer.co.uk

34 35

31 A GREAT PAIR Two birds, one stone – featuring Prosecco, salted caramel truffles and Xmas pud – this hamper is made for a duo; Christmas A Deux Hamper, £65, Harvey Nichols in Bristol, harveynichols.com 32 SIPPING POINT This Xmas gift keeps on giving, with four 90ml bottles of different style gins delivered every quarter; Sipsmith Sipping Society Membership, £160, sipsmith.com

33 GOT IT COVERED It’s pretty ironic, really, that the purpose of this gorgeous apron it to protect the probably-farless-jazzy attire underneath it…; Linum Kittel Apron, £125, Salcombe Trading in Bath, salcombetrading.co.uk

34 MAGIC BEANS That coffee aficionado pal of yours will be all over this coffee maker, with its integrated scale for weighing the beans and brewing timer; Artisan Precision Press Coffee Maker, £99, KitchenAid, johnlewis.com 35 ON POINT The robust stainless steel blades and hand-finished walnut handles on these knives will surely have you invited to the recipient’s house for steak night; Set of Four Contour Steak Knives, £58, Robert Welch in Bath, robertwelch.com 36 GO FOR GOLD This vintage domed meat cover is a pretty unique gift for a foodie with a taste for the finer things (by which we mean kitchen accessories, obvs) in life; Gold Meat Cover, £60, The Foodie Bugle in Bath, thefoodiebugleshop.com 37 FETCH! Don’t forget to give this cheese board (handmade with acacia wood, marble and brass, don’t cha know?) a pet name before wrapping it up for its new owner; Best In Show Cheese Board, £78, Anthropologie in Bath, anthropologie.com

crumbsmag.com

Traditional, seasonal

Sunday Roasts served ‘til 5pm

Lovely Lunches & Delicious Dinners served daily 12pm-3pm, 6pm-9.30pm

Live music every Sunday Theatre every week Monthly

Art exhibitions

Get Hitched

We have been awarded a Weddings & Ceremonies Licence So you can now ‘tie-the-knot’ in our lovely intimate theatre!

www.almatavernandtheatre.co.uk 18-20 Alma Vale Road • 0117 973 5171

Mains TOP CULINARY CAUSES, FAB FOOD DESTINATIONS, AND PEOPLE THAT MATTER

We love a bao bun, and cannot wait to try Larkin’s out at his new gaff, Woky Ko

Highlights SCHAWEET

Your sweet tooth needs these perfect puds and spectacular sweets Page 57

SMART ALEC

We know how to help support local charities by enjoying good grub... Page 63

LARKIN’ AROUND

Local MasterChef star Larkin Cen reveals all about his career so far Page 66

Including…

12 crumbsmag.com

CHARITABLE EATERIES to visit during the next two months...

BIKE SHOP | BIKE REPAIRS | CAFÉ / RESTAURANT

Lubricating the human engine since 1994 BREAKFAST • BRUNCH • LUNCH • DINNER

A QUICK TASTE OF OUR DECEMBER MENU (FOR PARTIES OF 2 - 102) Maple and mustard pulled pork on grilled sourdough £7.00 Cranberry and feta lamb koftas with rosemary and roast tomato £6.50 Caramelised pears and goats cheese with red chicory and pomegranate £6.50 Stifado Rabbit with capers, sultanas, pine nuts and barley £15.50 Malaysian turkey curry with apricot, ginger and herby bulgar £14.50 Sri Lankan Monkﬁsh with aubergine, green shell mussels and rice £15.25 Gingerbread and lemon curd triﬂe with blackberry sauce Plum and raspberry crumble with cream or custard Chocolate, cranberry and macadamia brownie

Bikes, burgers, Bromptons, beer, brakes, bearings, brunch Cranks, couscous, cassettes, Christmas presents, crossbars, Christmas meals

Mud Dock, 40 The Grove, Bristol BS1 4RB 0117 9349734 anna@mud-dock.co.uk

www.mud-dock.com

R A T e G g Su w YOU HO fLY? SO

crumbsmag.com

Mains

ely s positiv e e n k r r you alted Whetheat the words ‘sotally don’t buckle l’ or you, like, t top local caramesert, this list of you doing do des reats will haveon… sweet t rave, we reck a right c

( feature )

Ah Toots, Bristol Vegan chocolate brownies WHY TRY? Because, brownies – right? (And ’cause there’s a peanut butter and a mixed berry version, and it’s imperative we sample both) WHERE? WHAT?

Anna Cake Couture, Bristol Banoffee tart WHY TRY? Caramel, tick; fresh fruit, tick; walnut crumble, tick… WHERE? WHAT?

Recipe on cr umbsmag.com

Bell’s Diner, Bristol Salted caramel chocolate truffles WHY? The four magic words, all in one dessert name (those teasers at Bell’s aren’t serving this at the moment, but we got the recipe – so you can make ’em yourself at home!) WHERE? WHAT?

Ben’s Cookies, Bath and Bristol Triple chocolate chunk cookie WHY TRY? Get your dark and white choc fix in one, and enjoy making all the crumbs while you do WHERE? WHAT?

Bath Cake Company, Bath Chai cupcakes WHY TRY? Those warming chai spices make short work of combatting the autumnal chills WHERE? WHAT?

Casamia, Bristol Collection of apples WHY TRY? These guys know how to bloomin’ well do pud; even after the preceding 12 dishes, you won’t be able to leave this beauty WHERE? WHAT?

Bulrush, Bristol Miso parfait with cherry sorbet, sweet pastry and shiso granite WHY TRY? Because it’s hard to even imagine such a concoction, and we all know eating is believing WHERE? WHAT?

Cox & Baloney, Bristol Lavender cake WHY TRY? It’s a bestseller (and not to mention a top-secret Baloney family recipe, so a real one of a kind) WHERE? WHAT?

The Ethicurean, Wrington Chocolate delice with honeycomb and elderflower sherbet WHY TRY? Because the scattering of delicate elderflower sherbet is going to be the best kind of snow you’ll experience all winter WHERE? WHAT?

Flow, Bristol Apple crumble cake WHY TRY? Because you thought you knew apple crumble until this gorgeouslooking number came into your life WHERE? WHAT?

Course 13 – might be unlucky for some, but not Casamia diners who order this ‘collection of apples’

crumbsmag.com

Mud Dock, Bristol Autumn fruit salad with a mascarpone and vanilla cream WHY TRY? Because seasonality is a threecourse affair, and autumn is a great time of year for dark fruits like the ones here WHERE? WHAT?

Swoon’s gelato cakes These bad boys let you bring your best dessert game to dinner. Made by hand at Swoon using its fresh gelato (the current autumnal flavours are on point – think pumpkin and Amaretto, and chai spiced gingerbread) by Italian patisserie pros, the cakes can be boxed up and taken away. Ideal if you’re responsible for supplying the sweet stuff at a shindig.

The Gainsborough, Bath Strawberry cheesecake WHY TRY? All good things are worth waiting for: Dan Moon has promised to bring this back for us in the summer

The Ox, Bristol Chocolate delice with peanut butter crumb and banana cream WHY TRY? Because that banana cream is totally one of our five-a-day, right? (Oh, who are we kidding? We just want it in our chops, fruit quotas aside) WHERE? WHAT?

WHERE? WHAT?

The George, Bradford-on-Avon Panna cotta WHY TRY? At this time of year it’s served with warm, poached fruits (think apple and quince) to up the comfort factor

The Parlour, Bristol Grown-up classic waffle WHY TRY? Salted caramel sauce, espresso and cappuccino ice cream on a freshly made waffle? Um, yes please! WHERE? WHAT?

WHERE?

Recipe on cr umbsmag.com

WHAT?

Gloucester Old Spot, Bristol New York vanilla cheesecake WHY TRY? It’s probably got something to do with the silky ginger butterscotch sauce and brittle sesame tuille… WHERE? WHAT?

Granny Gothards, Taunton Chuckleberry ice cream WHY TRY? It’s the only ice cream to be made with these Welsh chuckleberries (and it’s award-winning, in case that sways you) WHERE? WHAT?

The Greenhouse, Corsham Dark chocolate mousse and Old Fashioned jelly WHY TRY? A dessert-cocktail hybrid is always worth a go, especially when it mixes chocolate with whisky and orange WHERE? WHAT?

Ronnies, Thornbury Banana bread and butter pudding WHY TRY? It’s an elegant take on an oldschool classic – oh yeah, and it comes with peanut ice cream... WHERE? WHAT?

Rosemarino, Bristol Semifreddo alla nocciole (that’s hazelnut praline and vanilla semifreddo) WHY TRY? The Italian food here is not quite like anywhere else in the city, and the desserts are no exception… WHERE? WHAT?

Soul Fish, Bristol Deep-fried Oreo WHY TRY? We asked ourselves the same question, then the thin batter, soft and warm centre, and fairgrounddoughnut-esque flavours made all become clear… WHERE? WHAT?

The Westbury Park, Bristol Popcorn panna cotta WHY TRY? This is three puds for the price of one; you get chocolate brownie and salted caramel mouse as well as the hero of the plate WHERE? WHAT?

Hart’s Bakery, Bristol Cinnamon buns WHY TRY? Made with croissant dough, these unique little treats are well worth putting up with sticky fingers for WHERE? WHAT?

Wilks, Bristol Citrus meringue sphere with orange and pink grapefruit jelly, lemon curd and fresh yuzu sorbet WHY TRY? If you can find a dessert more refreshing than this, please do holla WHERE?

The King William, Bath WHAT? Sticky toffee pud with Baileys toffee sauce WHY TRY? You did hear us say ‘Baileys toffee sauce’, right? It’s also gluten-free! WHERE?

WHAT?

✱ Have we missed off your favourite local pud? Tweet us a photo @crumbsmag, or post a snap on Insta with the hashtag #CrumbsSnaps

crumbsmag.com

VOW

NOW Bi-M ont hly

M AG A ZINE The South Westâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new wedding bible PICK Up your free copy now

T Follow us @VowMag From the makers of Crumbs, Bath Life, Bristol Life, Cardiff Life, Exeter Living and Salisbury Life Ad enquiries: Helen.Kembery@mediaclash.co.uk; Editorial: Matt.Bielby@mediaclash.co.uk; 01225 475800

food & drink

PHOTOGRAPHY &

VIDEOGRAPHY

that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t cost you the earth

www.precey.com

CHEZ DOMINIQUE Modern French Dining in Bath

chezdominique.co.uk 15 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BQ 01225 463482

Mains

SO STREET Olivia Bennett gives us the low down on StreetSmart – the annual campaign that makes good deeds out of great feeds…

“It’s no secret that Bristol has a homeless problem,” says Steve Gale of Bristol’s Flour & Ash. “As the cold winter nights draw in and you see people sleeping in doorways, it’s at the forefront of your mind.” James Koch of The Gallimaufry also witnesses the issues of homelessness in the same neighbourhood: “It’s is something I’ve seen a rise in on Gloucester Road, and throughout the city, in recent times,” he says, “and we

crumbsmag.com

want to do whatever we can to fight the problem.” This is where StreetSmart comes in; its annual campaign has raised a fist-pumping £7.9 million for the homeless since it first started in 1998. Here’s how it works: during the festive months of November and December, participating restaurants add a voluntary £1 to diners’ bills, which then gets sent to the guys at StreetSmart who dish it out to local homeless

charities. And, as all admin costs are covered by sponsor Deutsche Bank, the entire lot gets to the people who need it most. Yep: every. Single. Penny. Last year Bristol raised £10,500, which went to One 25, Emmaus Bristol and St Mungo’s Broadway. Want to do your bit this year? It’s pretty easy: just choose one of the supporting restaurants when you next go out for dinner – you’ll spot the donation on your bill.

We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting. Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome.

Christmas menu out now PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION

Tunley Road, Tunley BA2 0EB • 01761 470408 Email: kingwilliamtunley@live.com • f T @kingwilliam84 www.kingwilliaminn.co.uk

( feature )

And finding these eateries won’t exactly be difficult – foodie joints from all across the city have signed up to StreetSmart for 2016. They’ve all got their own reasons for doing so, too; be it a desire to support the local community, wanting to pay back the kindness they’ve received themselves, or the knowledge that the funds they raise are going to the right place. “Ben and I were born and raised in Bristol,” says Dominic Borel of Pasta Loco, “and have strong roots in the community. Helping the homeless in this vibrant town doesn’t just feel like a duty of care, but a responsibility as a business that offers food and drink to Bristol. Pasta Loco has received so much warmth and support from this city, so it’s only right we give back!” The guys at these restaurants really believe in the things the money is used for, too: “[StreetSmart] helps so many people in need across different communities in really tangible ways,” says Chris Robinson of MEATliquor. From the enthusiasm for the campaign that these guys see, it’s clear that the punters agree with their sentiments, too. “Our guests are thoroughly supportive of the campaign, and often leave more than the suggested £1 – true testament to the cause,” comments Riverstation’s Jarryd James. So, whaddaya say, then? Dinner out tonight?

WHO’S INVOLVED? Amongst the restaurants taking part are… Allium Brasserie, Bath Head chef Chris Staines, who has an impressive Michelin-starstudded CV, focuses on combining great-quality food with awesome wines; abbeyhotelbath.co.uk Flour & Ash, Bristol This much-raved-about joint makes everything from their menu in the wood-fired oven – apart from the gelato, of course; flourandash.co.uk The Gallimaufry, Bristol This indie joint is known for its food and its live music – the fun and well-executed Galli Plates are ideal for social meals; thegallimaufry.co.uk Harvey Nichols, Bristol Diners can look out over shoppers at The Second Floor Restaurant, while chowing down on two-AArosette-worthy dishes; harveynichols.com Maitreya Social, Bristol This friendly neighbourhood gaff in Easton isn’t just totally vegetarian; it has vegan and gluten-free options too; cafemaitreya.co.uk MEATliquor, Bristol The Bristol branch of this urban burger brand has all the quirk of its Sto-Cro ’hood, and filthy-good burgers to boot; meatliquor.com

Who thought that doing a good deed could be so delicious?

WHERE YOUR GOLDEN GOES Emmaus Bristol offers homeless people a home, work and the chance to rebuild their lives in a supportive environment. The Emmaus Community in Bristol opened in 2003, and now offers housing for 23 former homeless men and women.

Pasta Loco, Bristol A relative newcomer to the Brizzle scene, this cosy little joint is still the talk of the town thanks to its fresh, thoughtful pasta creations; pastaloco.co.uk

Souk Kitchen, Bristol (Southville) Here at the original branch of this award-winning restaurant, you’ll find vibrant Eastern Mediterranean and North African food, executed with skill; soukitchen.co.uk

Polpo, Bristol A trendy Ventian-inspired wine bar and restaurant, Polpo serves imaginative small plates and great wines; polpo.co.uk

Wilks, Bristol Having just retained its Michelin star for 2017, Wilks is well known for its modern, stylish food and local, laid back feel; wilksrestaurant.co.uk

One 25 works specifically with sexworkers. Any money raised for the charity will be put towards operating a van outreach service, a drop-in centre, and supporting its casework team, which works to improve the lives of these vulnerable and socially marginalised women in Bristol.

Riverstation, Bristol An old faithful among locals, this long-established riverside eatery has seen the city’s restaurant boom and held its own in style; riverstation.co.uk

Wilsons, Bristol This small indie joint serves an ever-changing menu made from ingredients the team have grown, hunted or foraged themselves; wilsonsrestaurant.co.uk

St Mungo’s Broadway runs a Recovery College and provides a programme of educational courses, primarily for people who have experienced homelessness. Last year, they had a total of 132 graduates and offered over 30 different courses.

crumbsmag.com

LarKIN CEN

G RILLE D THE CRUMBS INTERVIEW

As Bristol’s new Cargo development takes shape, Mark Taylor talks to the guy behind one of its most exciting eateries – someone you may well recognise from a lesser-watched and nevertalked-about little TV show called MasterChef…

WOKY KO IS the new 30-seat shipping container restaurant at the Cargo development in Bristol’s Wapping Wharf. But it could so easily have never come to be – there’s a particularly bad morning at the office to thank, explains Larkin Cen, who’s perhaps still best known as a MasterChef finalist ... “In 2012, I applied for MasterChef quite impulsively,” he says. “I had been mulling over quitting my job as a solicitor for a while, and thought that it was a great way to get my name out there. Given I was not a chef, I figured there wasn’t much to lose but a lot to gain. I was having a terrible day in work and, at lunchtime, I sent in my application. “Even to this day MasterChef has had a massive impact on my career. What it stands for is something people can relate to, and there is something quite romantic in the story that people buy into.” For Larkin, who grew up living above his parents’ Chinese takeaway in Cardiff, this Bristol launch is an important milestone in a varied career, and it’s the first business he has opened in the city he’s lived in since in 2010. “I moved to Bristol because of my job when I was a solicitor,” he says. “I grew up in Cardiff, went to university in Cardiff and trained as a solicitor in Cardiff, so when the opportunity arose to move here I took it, as I wanted a new experience.

“And I’m glad I did, because I consider Bristol to be my home now. I love the vibrancy of the city, and the food scene is fantastic – there’s great variety. “I think opening at Cargo in Wapping Wharf is a once in a lifetime opportunity. The fact that our landlord has opted to go for independent traders has meant that there is the chance to build a real community in the area, and I’m excited about how it can grow.” Woky Ko’s contemporary Asian menu is split into xiao sharing plates (think triplecooked crispy beef with fresh chillies, and sweet and sour chicken with pineapple, pomegranate and charred red onion salsa); bao (steamed Asian buns) filled with the likes of braised and shredded pork with hoi sin ketchup, apple and celeriac slaw and toasted sesame seeds; and bowls (fresh noodles or rice). And for dessert? Three words: ice cream baos. (We’re pretty excited about the salted caramel number, in particular.) “I want to play around with different flavours,” says Larkin. “For example, we have ‘chicken or the egg’, which is a fried rice dish with grated miso-cured egg yolk on top. A salted egg yolk is very classically Chinese, so I love cooking this dish. With an open kitchen and no MSG in the cooking, Larkin says fresh Asian food, cooked to order, is very much the main USP on offer here.

crumbsmag.com

Woky Ko is all about super-fresh Asian food with a modern edge

“When Chinese people talk about a great meal, the same phrase always comes up – it translates as “it was so fresh”. I guess it’s something that’s rubbed off on me growing up. The ingredients have to be fresh, and they have to be cooked to order to fully maximise their potential. “I have always loved the smell and the vibrancy of a Chinese kitchen. And the use of the wok is an art in itself; it is easy to pick up, but very hard to master. I find it therapeutic to watch a true wok star in action, and think people should see this. That’s why we have an open-plan kitchen to give a bit of theatre, and show the hustle and bustle of an Asian kitchen. “Chinese is actually the biggest ethnic cuisine, and it has almost universal appeal, but I feel we have only scratched the surface with it.” Also running a restaurant at the fivestar Celtic Manor hotel in Newport, Larkin is sure to be kept pretty busy. “At present, I’m planning to split my time 50/50 between Bristol and Newport. Celtic Manor is really supportive, which has enabled me to open Woky Ko. There are great teams in place at both venues to support me.” These aren’t the first businesses Larkin has run; he briefly had a delivery service and takeaway in Cardiff called Hokkei, but it closed earlier this year when it

crumbsmag.com

went into administration. It was an episode that ultimately taught the former solicitor some invaluable lessons on running a food business. “I have many fond memories of Hokkei, but it was also a very steep learning curve for me. Not only was it a food business – it was also a logistics business. I don’t know which part was more difficult to manage, because they were quite different. “I could write a book on what I learnt from the experience but, fundamentally, starting small is the one big lesson. I wanted to run before I could walk. The trouble is, when you try to do too many things at once you end up not doing each thing particularly well and, coupled with my inexperience of the trade at the time, it was very difficult to control. “I am still new to the trade, but I’m not a novice anymore; I won’t be making the same mistakes again. It’s a craft that I love, and I am getting to grips with the business. This is my life now. “I love being around food and working with fresh ingredients – I want to make the best possible food that I am capable of, and I want to improve each day.” ✱ woky.co; larkincen.com

Christmas Cracker Alc. 6% Vol. Available on draught in your local freehouse from beginning of December

Teignworthy Brewery, The Maltings, Teign Road, Newton Abbot. Telephone (Ofﬁce) 01626 332066 www.teignworthybrewery.com

HOBBS REFRIGERATION

Hobbs Refrigerated Trailers are perfect for private or commercial use, providing extra capacity when you need it. Perfect for: • Caterers for storage through parties, events or festivals. • Retailers during busy periods. • Restaurants and pubs to enable cold storage during refrigeration breakdown, maintenance or upgrade. We have mobile refrigeration and freezer units available for you to hire now. We also offer the complete Refrigeration Service including Maintenance and Coldroom Design & Build

For more information call 01225 444171 T @Hobbsrefrig

St. James’s Café ~ Deli Freshly Prepared Daily:

 Lunch   Breakfast   Food to go   Ready Meals   Smoothies   Cake   Speciality Tea   Coffee  Monday to Friday 8am - 5pm • Saturday 8am - 4pm Closed Sundays

5/6 St James's St, Bath BA1 2TW Phone: 01225 336106

D N A R IN A W BO O D EN IL M W GA

For great Christmas value

• Woolley Park (Bath) free range turkeys, geese and ducks • Copas organic and free range turkeys • Usk Vale boneless turkey crowns stuffed to order Gift vouchers • Set boxes

Our three course festive menu £25

Like us for special offers and seasonal recipes ba 101 Henleaze Road, Bristol BS9 4JP. www.henleazebutchers.co.uk

0117 962 1095 Also available for delivery from: www.goodsixty.co.uk

The Green, Biddestone, Nr Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 7DG Tel: 01249 714377

www.biddestonearms.co.uk

F 20%RIPOTF IONS

SUBSC

de use promo co S A M SX B M CRU on checkout

RICHMOND ARMS A country pub in the city

Fine coffee • Homemade cakes • Sharing platters Small plates • Fresh & locally sourced menu Hand picked wines • Local cask ales

01225 316725 7 RICHMOND PLACE, BATH BA1 5PZ

WWW.THERICHMONDARMSBATH.COM

Award Winning, Family Run Farm Shop Established for over 30 years Selling Quality Local Produce Open Daily 9am-6pm 10am-5pm on Sundays

HOME & LOCALLY REARED FRESH MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME. HOMEMADE SAUSAGES, AND BURGERS

LOCAL CHEESES & HOME COOKED MEATS LOCALLY GROWN VEGETABLES & FRUIT HOMEMADE CAKES & PIES LOCALLY MADE CHOCOLATES & FUDGE PRESERVES & CHUTNEYS LOCAL ALES, CIDERS & FINE WINES

Christmas meat orders now being taken TEL: 01249 658112 www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk

NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM

Afters Highlights BUNCHIN’

Bradford-on-Avon’s nationally recognised, French-inspired gaff, The Bunch of Grapes

The Bunch of Grapes has nailed that elegant but rustic French vibe

Page 74

ALL MY OWN HUNTS

Lunch at craft beer and speciality coffee joint, Hunter & Sons Page 77

TIN TIN

We leave our midday meal at Tiffin Time raring to go for the afternoon Page 81

Including…

2 crumbsmag.com

discerning soon-to-be weds...

Af ters

( F A N TA S T I C F R E N C H J O I N T S )

THE BUNCH OF GRAPES

Bordeaux meets Bradford-on-Avon at this charming little restaurant, says Jessica Carter

uestion: is it actually possible to ever become desensitised to the chocolate box charm of Bradford-on-Avon? Especially at this this time of year, when the quintessential stone houses and cottages look even cosier and the pubs and restaurants, housed in centuries-old buildings, even more inviting. The Bunch of Grapes is one of the strongest draws amongst the latter, and is an ideal place to warm your mitts before wrapping them around an ale or treating yourself to a seasonal meal. Once through the door, you’re immediately in the cosy bar area, which goes much further back than you can see at first. Pendant lights hang over the bar, at which metal stools are lined up. Dark, painted panelling backs the benches that stretch the length of the wall opposite, and the tables come in antique-looking wood. The dining rooms – found upstairs – are cosy and atmospheric in the evening, with candlelight softly illuminating the moody, dusky hues. The tables are unclothed and set with polished glass and vintage-style cutlery with bone-effect handles. We met one of the owners, Anna Barwick, who explained the story of this gaff – which, though old, is (in its current incarnation) celebrating its first birthday right about now. Having lived in Bordeaux for 14 years running a boutique holiday house, complete with its own skilled kitchen team, she and husband Andrew relocated here to being new life to the Grapes. A substantial number of their team decided to come with, too – including head chef Steve Carss, who’s been working with them for the last six years. And it’s not just the team that the owners have brought across the Channel – there’s a definite air of rural France to this elegantly rustic space, and the wine list features French producers that the guys know personally, and import from directly. The menus, too, are full of Frenchinspired comfort food. Speaking of menus, there are two. The main a la carte is split into small plates (which make ideal starters), flatbreads, salads and mains. Although this selection of dishes obviously changes, among them you’ll find the chef’s staple

crumbsmag.com

( feature )

classics like moules frites, steaks, and burgers. There’s also beer can poussin, and vegetarian options. The ‘market menu’ (£25 for a starter and main, and £30 for a full three courses) evolves constantly, according to what the chef has in and thinks is at its best. There’s a Bertha Oven in the kitchen here, and you’ll see it utilised in various dishes – the steaks and flatbreads, for example. The night we came there was a fillet of gurnard on the market menu that had been cooked in it over cherry wood, too. Dinner got underway with cheese beignets (£5). The little French fritters were crisp on the outside with a soft, cheesy centre, and came sat on a thin layer of crème fraîché and finely chopped chive. Fried carb and cheese with a side of class? Strong start. Next was an aperitif sharing board (£14), made up of a selection of the

chef’s favourite small plates – among them pumpkin and fig tartine with sundried tomato and tangy ewes curd; pork terrine studded with pistachio nuts and served with plum chutney; flatbread topped with sweet potato and salty feta; and smoked duck with beet hummus. In the warming bowl of wood pigeon cassoulet (from the market menu) was a muddle of beans, wild mushroom and lardons in a rich red wine sauce – an ideal bed for plump cuts of wood pigeon to rest on. Earthy and hearty, it was a comforting mix of autumnal flavours and colours, the meat a lovely deep pink. Also from the market menu was a ‘vol au vent’ (yup, really). Of a very different ilk to anything we might have served to guests with drinks in the ’80s, this was a clever, novel little number, topped with beetroot, ewes curd, pear, chicory and roast fennel, which all combined to keep tastes and textures nicely balanced in each mouthful. There is, of course, plenty of cheese available to end with, but we went for the café gourmand (£8.50), a selection of desserts to share and an espresso shot each. The deliciously caramelised pear tarte tain with golden chewy edges was declared the favourite. The Bunch of Grapes (which was recently named as an OFM Awards runner-up for its roasts) has character and charm befitting both its BoA location and rural French roots, and the quality’s there too. Bravo! ✱ THE BUNCH OF GRAPES 14 Silver Street, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1JY; 01225 938088; thebunchofgrapes.com

crumbsmag.com

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been awarded 2 AA rosettes Book today to find out why

Homewares Vintage Paint Unique Finds HandmadeÂ Reclaimed Creative Workshops

Best Western Centurion Hotel Charlton Lane, Midsomer Norton, Nr Bath BA3 4BD | 01761 417711

www.centurionhotel.co.uk @seanhorwood

RestAtCent

Paint workshops | Lampshade making Weekly Knit and Natter Group launching this Autumn See website for details

( feature )

Af ters

( BRILLIANT BARS )

HUNTER & SONS

Jessica Carter makes the most of her lunch break with a visit to this cool Bath bar…

ack in 2014 James Hunter collaborated with master barista Maxwell ColonnaDashwood of Colonna & Small’s to create Colonna & Hunter. Here, great coffee shared the spotlight with craft beer, the range of both rotating so returning punters were always presented with new thirst quenchers. This year James took sole control of the site, renaming it and developing the food offering alongside his range of beers. You can find Hunter & Sons in Milsom Place – a cool hub of trendy boutique stores and well-known restaurants – with a windowed frontage that displays its name in tattoo-style lettering. Inside is a cool, calm space; the white brick walls and stone floor paired with plenty of bare wood and raw metal for a chilled-out, industrial look. Brunches are served until 4pm and include pimped-up classics – think bacon sarnies with apple ketchup,

crumbsmag.com

and homemade baked beans with Westcombe Cheddar – as well as the likes of fried polenta with mushrooms and herbs, and the (nowadays obligatory) avo on toast. The waffles are a big deal here too, coming with toppings like crisp bacon and maple syrup. They’re a much relied-upon morning-after-the-night-before remedy among James’ punters, we’re told. The two main meals on the blackboard when we popped by for lunch were a broth of poached chicken with purple sprouting broccoli (£8.50), and Caerphilly arancini (£8) – both ideal for such a biting autumnal day. The former was a warming, hearty bowl of goodness, featuring tender chicken and chunks of squash. Chilli and garlic whispered Asian inspiraton, and flaked almonds added to the textual situation. The arancini balls proved to be just as satisfying, served with tangy pickled tomatoes to cut through their cheesy, creamy filling. The crisp spheres sat on a bed of buttery cabbage and squash purée – the sweetness of which balanced the whole plate out. On tap was an eclectic selection of craft beers (available in one-third, half or two-thirds of a pint) from all over the world. The range changes all the time to keep you on your toes, but the team really know their stuff and are ace at talking you through the brews – each of which is chalked up on mini slates with its tasting notes – and finding one (at least) that you’ll love. A London-made IPA – Centennial Nugget Simcoe Galaxy from The Kernel brewery – was subtly citrusy, balancing sweet fruity notes with a pleasingly bitter edge.

Finishing on an Ethiopian black coffee – which went down a treat, sans milk – we headed back to Crumbs HQ waiting for it to kick in and propel us into the afternoon. As well as being a good lunch spot, Hunter & Sons is open as a bar until 11pm most nights too, so it’s definitely one to head to at the end of the day as well as in the middle of it. ✱ HUNTER & SONS, Milsom Place, Bath BA1 1BZ; hunter-sons.co.uk

( H A N D S O M E H O T E L R E S TA U R A N T S )

WIDBROOK GRANGE

Af ters

Mark Taylor eavesdrops on some impressed fellow diners over dinner at this rural Bradford-on-Avon restaurant...

hen it comes to extra pressure for a hotel kitchen, there’s nothing quite like knowing that somebody on the other side of the door into the dining room is scrutinising every item on every plate of food. I’m not talking about the presence of restaurant reviewers like myself, but mystery diners far more important than that: I’m referring to couples scoping out a place before they sign the dotted line, hand over their life savings and book the hotel for The Big Day. Widbrook Grange has just enjoyed its busiest summer yet for wedding bookings and next year’s diary is already filling up nicely. A handsome Georgian farmhouse set in 11 acres, the hotel has 19 bedrooms, a heated indoor pool and a standalone restaurant. As wedding venues go, it looks the part. Which is

crumbsmag.com

( feature )

probably why there was a couple being shown around the place when I arrived for dinner, talking about sashes for the top table and other such details. And they weren’t alone. At the table on the other side of the room, another couple were there to check out the food before having their wedding at the property; in between hushed discussions about chair covers, the bride-to-be and her partner were snapping every dish from every angle with their iPhones. Luckily for Widbrook Grange, the noises the couple were making all seemed to be positive. They were virtually cooing over the poached new season leeks, chorizo, Godminster Cheddar sauce and pig cheek, and drooling over the roasted duck breast with creamed Savoy cabbage and smoked duck, potato dauphinoise and greengage sauce. The head chef here is Phil Carroll, who trained at Bath College before working for the likes of Richard Shepherd at Langan’s and Brian Turner – two references that hint at classical French training from a bygone era. And such a background shows in the food, which combines solid technique with contemporary twists and a thorough understanding of seasonality. This is a menu that reflects the rural position of the hotel and its restaurant, which is also mirrored by the

crumbsmag.com

agricultural artefacts in the room such as old watering cans, milk churns and wooden vegetable crates. There is even an ancient milk float, which is due to be turned into a mobile bottle bar. Dinner got off to a promising start with the arrival of a wooden board piled high with pumpkin and sunflower seed bread – so warm from the oven that there were plumes of steam as I slathered the garden herb butter on each thick slice. Seared duck breast, duck confit fritter, fried quince, hazelnut and brioche crumb (£6.50) was a generous starter, the slices of pink breast and batterencased fritter both boasting a deep duck flavour and the slivers of soft, buttery quince adding a sweetness that countered the tart-but-fruity sauce (blackcurrant, perhaps, or damson). It was followed by an enormous fillet of seared sea bass (£16.50) that was accurately cooked with crisp skin and moist, meaty flesh. It was accompanied by three perfectly timed scallops and a warm potato salad, with a salty samphire crunch and piquant caper sauce.

To finish, slices of hot and tender roasted peach were teamed with crumbly, buttery shortbread (hands up, I didn’t really detect the advertised lavender and nettle), whipped vanilla cream and crunchy, chewy pistachio brittle (£6.50). In an impressive display of multitasking, general manager Matthew Buy was also running the front-of-house in the restaurant with charm and efficiency – that’s between welcoming guests, pouring drinks in the bar and darting into the kitchen. The hotel has a homely feel and the welcome was so warm that I was starting to wish I was climbing the stairs to bed after dinner, rather than climbing into a cab and getting the next train home. Widbrook Grange may be an increasingly popular wedding venue, but the restaurant is also worth the detour – even if you’re not planning to tie the knot in the immediate future. ✱ WIDBROOK GRANGE, Trowbridge Road, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1UH; 01225 864750; widbrookgrange.co.uk

Cosy independent coffee shop in heart of Bristol

Fresh, delicious sandwiches made daily in-house, speciality coffee, amazing pancakes and more... Perfect for a great breakfast or lunch!

NEWLY REFURBISHED. UNDER NEW OWNERSHIP. Our extensive refurbishment includes our downstairs bar area as well as our beautiful upstairs lounge which is available for exclusive hire.

The Curfew Please contact Dan or Emily on 01225 313747 for details 11 Cleveland Place West, Bath BA1 5DG

www.thecurfewbath.co.uk

33 Colston Avenue | Bristol | BS1 4UA 0117 9256699 Mon-Fri 6am-4pm, Sat-Sun closed | bluepigcafe.co.uk

Voted NO.1 COFFEE SHOP in Bristol by Bristol Post

( feature )

Af ters

( LUSCIOUS LUNCHES )

TIFFIN TIME

Fresh and hearty, Jessica Carter’s working lunch had all the comforts of home-cooking

fter vising Mumbai and seeing home-cooked meals being delivered by bike to workers across the city, Bristol local Katie Garden was inspired to found Tiffin Time. She began cooking up lunches in her kitchen at home, and had them couriered out to her customers during the working week. No stranger to running a food business (Katie is also co-owner of the Strumpets with Crumpets festival food van), she was soon making such a success of Tiffin Time that she set about opening a dedicated premises to cook and deliver from. So, that’s how the Tiffin Time shop on Midland Road came to be. Now Katie and her team are able to offer takeaway (and even a bit of space for eating in), as well as the already-established delivery service. All meals from this ethically focused biz are delivered by zero-emission, traffic-busting bicycle, in reusable tiffin tins and containers. It’s with this conscientious mindset that Katie offers extra rewards for customers who provide their own reuseable foodie vessel by way of loyalty points that can be exchanged for freebies. While ethical factors like these are always a plus, they’re only really part of the reason why Tiffin Time is a such a lunchtime savior. The other part is the food. Obviously.

crumbsmag.com

As well as using local producers and suppliers, Katie also goes organic wherever possible when it comes to her ingredients and, as everything is handmade fresh, she can easily cater for dietary requirements, too. In fact, on the day we dropped by the whole menu was gluten free (as it often is, we were told), without seemingly even trying to be. There’s always a meat and a vegetarian main (priced respectively at £4 and £3 on their own, or £6.50 and £5.50 including your choice of two sides), which change week by week. Having swung by for a late lunch, we grabbed the bar stools at the window, inhaling the lovely aromas of fresh home cooking that filled the light and airy little shop, and chose our dishes. The Sicilian caponata was a comforting stew of roasted aubergine, tomato and puy lentils, punctuated with pokey capers and salty olives, which added extra interest and seasoning to each mouthful. Meanwhile, the arrabiata saw chunks of succulent baked chicken breast (the meat here comes from Ruby & White butchers on Whiteladies Road) sit in a rich and warming tomato sauce with a sugguestion of spice, along with black olives and roast, skin-on potatoes. Sides were a fresh, dressed salad of Severn Project leaves, peashoots, tommies and cucumber; a crisp, sweet ’slaw, made from raw shredded beetroot,

carrot and apple, coated in a gorgeous ginger and lime dressing; and ribbons of courgette, tangled up with butterbeans and dressed lightly in basil pesto, punchy with garlic. Although light enough that it didn’t render us sleepy and useless for the afternoon, our lunch was super satisfying in terms of both flavour and substance, and made us feel like we really were getting some proper nutrition onboard. (The veg goodness is great for combating those afternoon slumps at work, we imagine.) We left, quite frankly, rather jealous of anyone who works within this place’s delivery catchment. ✱ TIFFIN TIME, 13 Midland Rd, Bristol BS2 0JT; 0117 954 0204; tiffintime.co.uk

Little black book Former River Cottage chef Jay McMillan now reps Total Produce in Bristol, so really knows his way around the local food scene

BREAKFAST?

WITH FRIENDS?

Bakers and Co. My favourite dish has to be the custard toast – an amazing twist on French toast. The fresh huevos rancheros is a close second.

Wild Beer Co has to be my favourite place to go to with a group. It has an incredible atmosphere, and their speciality beers are some of the best I’ve had!

BEST BREW?

Playground Coffee House. The baristas have great knowledge and are very skilled in making coffee. The shop itself is very relaxed, too – it even has playground swings to sit on.

CURRY ?

Chai Shai is a small BYO restaurant producing amazing food; when you walk in you’re hit with a sensory attack of fantastic aromas coming from the open kitchen. Real authentic curry.

SUNDAY LUNCH?

Quick!

Now add this little lot to your contacts book Bakers and Co, Bristol BS7 8BG; bakersbristol.co.uk Playground Coffee House, Bristol BS1 1TP; playgroundcoffee.co.uk Rosemarino, Bristol BS8 1AH; rosemarino.co.uk Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Bristol BS8 2PH; hmssbristol.com Dark Horse, Bristol BS5 9HX The Cauldron, Bristol BS2 9XW; thecauldron.restaurant Box E, Bristol BS1 6WP; boxebristol.com The Wild Beer Company at Wapping Wharf, Bristol BS1 5WE; wbwappingwharf.com Chai Shai, Bristol BS8 4NF St Nicholas Market, Bristol BS1 1JQ; stnicholasmarketbristol.co.uk River Cottage Canteen, Bristol BS8 2QY; rivercottage.net Cowshed, Bristol BS8 2NH; cowshedrestaurants.com

Rosemarino – the roasts here have all the classic flavours, with some lovely touches like the celeriac gratin. CHEEKY COCKTAIL?

Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Hidden away at Clifton Down station, you enter through an old fashioned phone booth. Excellent cocktails, fantastic ambience.

TOP STREET FOOD?

This is tough. St Nick’s Market has everything you could ever want for street food, especially on a Saturday with its extra stalls. Chilli Daddy is a favourite with their noodle boxes, and Eat-a-Pitta falafel wraps are excellent value for money. COMFORT FOOD?

QUICK PINT?

The newly refurbished Dark Horse on Church Road is great – cosy, with an excellent choice of ales and ciders.

It might not be seen as comfort food to some, but River Cottage Canteen has to be at the top for me. I find the flavours and produce create a really hearty, honest meal.

HIDDEN GEM?

The Cauldron in St Werburghs has a well-crafted menu that champions seasonal ingredients, and it’s all expertly cooked by owner and chef Henry Eldon in cauldrons on open fires!

BEST STEAK?

Cowshed has the best steak in Bristol. Perfectly cooked, excellent beef, sourced by their own butchers Ruby & White. There are also great little extras, like roasted bone marrow.

ONE TO WATCH?

Box E: expect modern British, seasonal cooking by award-winning chef Elliott Lidstone. There even a kitchen table for those who want to experience the buzz of the kitchen in full.

✱ totalproducelocal.co.uk

crumbsmag.com



CELEBRATE THE TASTE OF AUTUMN Head Chef Dan Moon draws inspiration from the fresh, seasonal flavours of autumn to create a sumptuous Six Course Tasting Menu of classic dishes with a modern twist

SAMPLE MENU AMUSE BOUCHE Smoked Ballotine of Var Salmon Horseradish Potato Mousseline, Apple, Fennel

STARTER Chicken Liver Parfait Rhubarb Sorbet, Sorrel, Almond Granola

RISOTTO Wild Mushroom Risotto Poached Quail’s Egg, Parmesan Crackling, Cauliflower

FISH COURSE Diver Scallop King Prawn, Tomato Water, Yuzu Caviar, Pickled Radish

MAIN Creedy Carver Duck Breast Confit Spring Roll, Plum, Sesame

DESSERT Verona Chocolate Dome Orange Mousse, Ginger Gel, Baby Basil

£60.00

per person

To reserve your table, please call 01225 358 888 or email restaurant@thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk and quote ‘Crumbs’. The Gainsborough Restaurant, Beau Street, Bath, BA1 1SH. thegainsboroughbathspa

www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk GainsBathSpa

thegainsboroughbathspa

ytlhotels