CRUMBS BATH & BRISTOL NO.78 SUMMER 2018
A little slice of foodie heaven
FA SUEPPEERLCLUGB OOD FEAsTING WITH A MINDFUL DIFFERENCE
Crumbs Awards are back!
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NE W COLUMN!
SUMMER 2018
KNOCK Y OURSELF OUT!
9 NIFTY
M CRU
BS
.CO MAG
TRY H HARD
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RECIPES
’s TH ON M IS TH FOODIE TO-DO LIST, SORTED
FROM OUR DIES FAVOURIT E FOO & D R IN K P R O S BRIGHT LIKE A
TRAFFIC LIGHT, PEPPERS ARE THE KINGS OF CRUNCH
Plus!
Happy Bird
Make eveRy daY a
wOky Ko: KautO mrs PO ChoCoLtattse HOuse Olé BaR and Restaurant
PIGS ON
THE SCARLET PEPPER
BWHALAT TONKE Ts John Travolta stopped growing regular peppers, ’cos his hot ones are doing so well.
DRINK R AP T
He’s got chillis, they’re multiplying.
BOOZE BUFF KINGs KATE HAW ON 2018’s HOTTEST TRENDs
PAC PORKING OKUTWATHEN YOUR NEXT PICNIC
CRUMBS BATH & BRISTOL NO.78 SUMMER 2018
A little slice of foodie heaven
FEEL GOOD FEAsTING
A SUPPER CLUB WITH A MINDFUL DIFFERENCE
Crumbs Awards are back!
78
#
NEW COLUMN!
SUMMER 2018
KNOCK YOURSELF OUT!
9 NIFTY
CRUM
BSM
AG
TRY H RD HA
.COM
RECIPES
’s THIS MONTHE FOODI TO-DO LIST, SORTED
FROM OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES & DRINK PROS BRIGHT LIKE A
TRAFFIC LIGHT, PEPPERS ARE THE KINGS OF CRUNCH
Plus!
Happy Bird
Make eveRy daY a
wOky Ko: KautO mrs POtts ChoCoLate HOuse
Olé BaR and Restauran t
PIGS ON
THE SCARLET PEPPER
BLANKE Ts
John Travolta stopped growing regular peppers, ’cos his hot ones are doing so well.
ZE KATE HAWKINGs DRINK BOO ON 2018’s EST TRENDs RAPT HOTT BUFF
WHAT TO PACK WHEN PORKING AT YOUR NEXTOUT PICNIC
He’s got chillis, they’re multiplying.
ISSUE 78 SUMMER 2018 EDITOR
JESSICA CARTER jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR
MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ONLINE EDITOR
DAN IZZARD dan.izzard@mediaclash.co.uk CONTRIBUTOR
AEMELIA SMITH ART DIRECTOR
TREVOR GILHAM
SGT. PEPPER
ADVERTISING MANAGER
KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER
NEIL SNOW neil.snow@mediaclash.co.uk ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE
ALISTAIR TAYLOR alistair.taylor@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER
SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION DESIGNER
GEMMA SCRINE gemma.scrine@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version
MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW 01225 475800 mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month we tried out the Honest Burgers pre-opening pop-up, and were fed by Gordon Jones at Queen Square in Bath.
large version
PHWOAR! RIGHT NOW, as Iʼm penning this very letter (well, typing – quills are generally considered rather inefficient in the game these days), itʼs properly scorching outside. The kind of weather for feasting on light, colourful, fresh-tasting salads. Said salads, as it goes, being exactly the type of dish that sweet, in-season peppers so enthusiastically lend themselves to. And guess what? That season is now. And peppers are our Hero this month. Gotta love it when a plan comes together. A great way to prepare this fruit-in-vegetable’s-clothing is by simply charring it over fire. Peel off the black, blistered skin and youʼll find soft, juicy, sweet flesh beneath. Then get it involved with some tomatoes and nuts to make a romesco sauce, perhaps, or pair it up with goatʼs curd and oregano to make Freddyʼs recipe. Speaking of romesco, that was one of the dishes our Andy Clarke whipped up at the recent Too Many Critics dinner in Bristol. Held to raise some dollar for Action Against Hunger, it turned the tables on a group of local food writers, seeing how they got on when cooking up a four-course meal for some of the cityʼs best chefs. Yours truly was in on the action too, buddying up with Mr C to put together a mezze of starters. It was a proper hoot of a day – if a sweat-inducing, slightly chaotic and rather panicked one (you know what they say: itʼs all fun and games ʼtil Michelin-starred chefs turn up for a feed) – and a great reminder of how bloody hard our chefs and hospitality pros work to keep the local restaurant scene one of the best in the country. Back to the issue at hand, though: turn these pages for all the summery news, reviews, trends, recipes and general foodie inspo you could wish for. Off you go.
Jessica Carter, Editor jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk
Did you know we have an app? You can read both editions of Crumbs – Bath and Bristol, and Devon – on iTunes or Android. Search ‘Crumbs’, or go to crumbsmag.com
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STARTERS 08 HERO INGREDIENTS Saved by the bell 19 MUCH TO DO Things to try this month CHEF! Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens and bars 33 Wild sea bass with sauce vierge, by Eddy Rains 34 Lamb with salsa verde, by Tom Blake 36 Pulled pork rolls, by Kieran Jefferson 38 Masala monkfish, by Jonathan Williams 40 Passion fruit parfait, by Paul Collins ADDITIONAL RECIPES
12 Peppers with anchovy and goatʼs curd, by Freddy Bird 26 Barbados custard ice cream, by Kitty Travers 52 Kabocha nikuman, by Iris Hable 67 First of the Summer Wine, by Aurelius Braunbarth KITCHEN ARMOURY 47 SUPPER CLUB The Yoga Brunch Club does dinner 54 THE WANT LIST Flamingo dancing MAINS 61 BREAK TIME Fun food activities for the little ones during the summer break 66 GRILLED Tipple talk with Kate Hawkings AFTERS New and notable restaurants, cafés, bars 72 Woky Ko: Kauto 74 Happy Bird 78 Olé Bar and Restaurant 81 Mrs Potts Chocolate House PLUS! 82 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Harvest’s Suzy Puddephatt gives us her foodie go-tos
TABLE OF CONTENTs NO.78 SUMMER 2018
EXCEPTIONAL EVENTS fostersevents.co.uk
STARTERs
INNOVATION REVELATIONSS, AND TA AMUSE-BOUSTCY HES
JO N C RA IG
paRty fOOd
FUN VIBES WILL BE SWEEPING OUR PATCH THIS MONTH THANKS TO FESTIVALS, PARTIES AND CELEBRATIONS – ALL WITH A FOCUS ON FAB FOOD AND DRINK, OF COURSE 21 JULY WAPPING WHARF’S MARITIME SHINDIG
Wapping Wharf food businesses are celebrating Bristol Harbour Festival weekend with some special offerings. Wander down to the river and pick up a premade picnic of cheese and crackers from the Bristol Cheesemonger, check out the oyster bar at Root, tuck into a tuna tostada at Cargo Cantina, or pig out at Pigsty’s barbecue. It’s all happening down there. wappingwharf.co.uk
27 JULY BATH GIN AND PROSECCO FESTIVAL
Taking place at the Guildhall Market in the centre of the city, this drink-focused fest is about chilled out, sophisticated vibes. Guests will have heaps of artisanal sips to try out, and there will be food platters on offer. Entry – which is £13, plus booking fee – includes a gin guide and glass, and music performances will be happening too. Tickets are available from Eventbrite. eventbrite.co.uk
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4 AUGUST TROPICAL ROOFTOP BRUNCH
This sunny weather is ideal for hanging out alfresco, right? Make the most of it at this month’s Tropical Rooftop Brunch at the Radnor Rooms in the centre of Bristol. Beats will come courtesy of live DJs, while barbecues will see plenty of Mediterranean and Caribbean grub served up to hungry revelers. Entry is £10, and tickets can be bought online from Foozie. foozie.co.uk
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18 AUG PIZZA AND PROSECCO FESTIVAL Following the success of its first event in Bristol last year, this mini festival is back, promising even more food, fizz and fun. Held in The Passenger Shed, it’ll involve plenty o’ pizza and 20 different types of Prosecco for visitors to get down their necks, and there will be live music acts too. Different sessions are available, and tickets include a Spritz and a slice to get you started. pizza-and-prosecco.com
PEPPERs
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JOLLY, ROBUST AND TRAFFICLIGHT BRIGHT, SHINY PEPPERS ARE A WELCOME GUEST AT ANY SUMMERTIME TABLE. THEY’RE SUPER VERSATILE AND UBERHEALTHY TOO, MEANING WE UNDERRATE THEM AT OUR PERIL… WE’RE TALKING YOUR standard pepper here, about the size of your fist and variously known as sweet pepper, bell pepper, or simply by their colour (‘green’, say, or ‘red’). But though it may seem pretty basic, the pepper has its secrets. For one thing, it’s a fruit, not a vegetable – though we treat it as if it were veggie, like we do the tomato. For another – and although there are different varieties – most peppers we see are basically the same thing, the different colours indicating nothing more than how ripe they are. They all start green, you see – and on the shelves these are most common, as they’ve been picked the earliest – but leave them on the vine long enough and they’ll soon turn red, the sugar levels (and therefore sweetness) building as they ripen. Are greens the worst, then? In a way – they definitely have the fewest nutrients – but they’re also the cheapest, have the least sugar, and their more acidic, slightly bitter taste makes them great for cooking with; in something like a tangy goulash, they mellow considerably. Red peppers, meanwhile, are gentler and sweeter, good all-rounders for ratatouille or tapas dishes, and lovely raw. And the yellow and orange ones? Not usually an in-between stage, as is often said, they’re generally separate (but very similar) varieties, bred to be sweet like the red pepper and to add fun to a salad; they’re especially great with tuna or sweet-and-sour pork. You may occasionally come across specialist white, brown, lavender or midnight purple varieties too, often strongly flavoured and some turning green when cooked.
PEPPERS ARE ACTUALLY cultivars of a species first found by the Spanish in Central America, Mexico and the top bit of South America, and brought to Europe by Christopher Columbus in 1493. These days synonymous with Mediterranean cuisine, they marry beautifully with other summertime staples, from courgettes to tomatoes. Despite the name, they’re in no way related to the peppercorn – as members of the nightshade family, they’re actually closer to toms and spuds – but back in the day black pepper from India was a much admired condiment, and anything foreign with a bit of flavour to it tended to get called ‘pepper’ sooner or later. In fact, the average pepper’s closet common relative is the chilli pepper,
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a smaller lookalike that tends to regard this issue’s Hero as slightly weak and weedy. After all, the regular pepper is the only member of the immediate family that doesn’t produce capsaicin, a chemical to make your mouth feel like it’s burning, even though nothing untoward is actually happening to it at all. But while there may be no fire to a pepper, there’s plenty of good stuff packed into its unassuming curves. Peppers actually have more vitamin C than an orange (especially the red ones, and especially, especially organic red ones), and tons of vitamin A too. And there are other good things here: vitamins K, E, and various B vitamins, including B6, plus plant compounds linked to cancer prevention and the antioxidant lycopene, which may help lower the risk of heart disease. Greens may be inferior to reds in this regard, but all you really need to know is that any pepper is plenty good for you. Though they’re usually available all year around, peak pepper season runs July through September, and picking a good one is easy – if it looks nice (heavy, firm, shiny, bright, and without bruises or soft bits), it probably will be. Puckering around the stalk and wrinkling of the skin are the first signs of ageing (as with us all), but these things last for ages (ten days should be safe) in the fridge. While most peppers look like a blocky bucket or bell, with four wide lobes, some varieties are longer, thinner and have only three; about a third the usual size, they’re extremely snackable. Preserved in brine or oil, canned or bottled versions are even more durable, and come skinned – great if that’s what you prefer.
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WHAT TO DO with them? However you eat yours, you’ll need to remove the core, the bitter pithy membranes and the seeds, which brings you to the question of whether you bother skinning them. The easiest way to do this is to blacken them under a hot grill, then put them in a bowl covered with cling film. By the time they’re cool, the skin will pull right off. (Alternatively, do much the same with boiling water.) Why the faff? Because they’re nicer this way, is the simple reason, but it depends on the recipe and your tastes as to whether it’s worth the effort. You can eat your peppers raw – sliced in a salad, or cut into crunchy strips and dunked in hummus or yoghurt dips – or semi-cooked, when they add juiciness and crunch to stir fries. Threaded on skewers with the likes of onion, pork or chicken, they’re a great barbecue staple – robust enough to stand up to the heat like few veggies can – and, stuffed with a rice and mince mixture then baked, they’re a great light meal. In casseroles, bakes, tortillas, burgers, ’slaws and omelettes, they’re a reliably tasty mainstay, and there are all sorts of ways you can use them as a side dish, too: roasted in the oven, fried in garlic and olive oil, simmered in tinned plum tomatoes... Oh, and if you’re making stews or soups, you’re quite likely using peppers too. The spice paprika is no more or less than dried red peppers ground into powder – ideally boldog or alma varieties (not quite the same as a supermarket pepper, but close), though many versions use regular peppers mixed with chilli or similar, too.
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R E C I P E
FREDDY BIRD ISN’T MUCKING ABOUT WITH THIS MONTH’S HERO – HE’S SERVING IT STRAIGHT UP IN THIS SIMPLE SUMMER SALAD
WHEN I’M COOKING with in-season peppers, the simpler the recipe, the better. Peppers are readily available all year but, perhaps unlike with tomatoes, peas, asparagus and other summer fruit and veg, we tend to forget they also have a peak season. This recipe is all about five great ingredients – make it out of season or with poor quality versions and it’s a flop. However, if you get yourself the best peppers, early harvest arbequina olive oil, Cantabrian anchovies, and the freshest goat’s curd and peppery oregano, it’s a perfect lunch that you’ll go back to again and again all summer.
REd PEPPER wITh GOAT’S CURd ANd ANChOVIES SERVES 4 4 red bell peppers 4 tbsp goat’s curd 2 tins salted Ortiz anchovies handful fresh oregano, chopped generous slug of early harvest arbequina olive oil sourdough bread, to serve 1 Blister the peppers, ideally over the barbecue, cooking them until they are black all over. Don’t leave them too long – you’ll burn all the flesh and be left with nothing – but, equally, if you don’t cook them for long enough the skin won’t come off and they’ll lack that charred sweetness. 2 Once ready, remove from the heat and leave for 15 minutes in a bowl covered with cling film – this will make peeling off the skin nice and easy. Remove the skin and don’t worry about the odd few specks of black that are left. Definitely don’t wash it off – this will wash away all the flavour. 3 Tear each pepper into 4 or 5 pieces and discard the seeds. Arrange on a plate and lightly season with Maldon salt. 4 Next, dot the curd all over the peppers, drape the anchovies sporadically around the dish, scatter over the fresh oregano, and drizzle liberally with arbequina olive oil. 5 Eat with plenty of sourdough bread to mop up the juices. Lido, Oakfield Place, Bristol BS8 2BJ; 0117 933 9530; lidobristol.com
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Email: info@catserv.co.uk - Bath 01225 480240 - Bristol 0117 929 4777 BATH | BRIGHTON | BRISTOL | CARDIFF | CHELTENHAM | COVENTRY | LONDON | SOUTHAMPTON | SWINDON
S T A R T E R S
Openings etc
LICENCE TO GRILL
K IRSTIE YO U N G
The M Shed on Bristol’s harbourside has a new food offering for summer. The Grill Shack will be popping up on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings for the rest of the summer at its location just next to Cargo. Building on the varied menus that are already available in that popular foodie hotspot, the kitchen team has come up with a concise list of simple but well done barbecue dishes – think slow-cooked pork shoulder with homemade barbecue sauce and beetroot ’slaw, and chargrilled summer veg with feta and hazelnut. Incidentally, the café at M Shed has just bagged itself a silver award from the Soil Association, for its commitment to ethically and sustainably sound ingredients. Go team. bristolmuseums.org.uk/m-shed
BULLSEYE!
Food and music festival Cock and Bull is back for 2018, taking place in a secret location in Wiltshire. Billed as ‘a festival for the mind, body and soul’, it has a programme packed with feasts, workshops, talks and kids’ activities, as well as live music and DJ performances. Having started in 2011, the festival – which took a break last year – was conceived to raise funds for Jamie’s Farm. This charity works with vulnerable and disadvantaged young people by offering week-long stays, where they learn new farming skills and engage in a community environment. Indeed, all the food on offer here will have been produced by this award-winning local organisation. The fabulously feel-good, family festival is taking place 10-12 August; tickets are available now. cockandbullfestival.co.uk
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SWEET ESCAPE
After a successful first five years in business, Zara’s Chocolates has announced big plans. Having launched a Kickstarter campaign, it’s looking to not only move premises (down the road from the existing shop it shares with Ivory Flowers on North Street, into the former Paper Village), but expand its offering and create a hangout for sweet toothed punters in the form of a speciality hot chocolate bar. The space will also be used for chocolate-making workshops, educational events, and evening tastings and talks, not to mention to make even more of the cocoa-based treats that have won the businesses several awards. Keep your eye on the website for updates on their progress. zaraschocolates.com
OODLES OF NOODLES
Vik and Guy Siddall, the couple behind the Crumbs Award-winning Eatchu, have just launched a second venture. Like Eatchu, Yaki Shak is an Asian street food concept, but in contrast to its gyoza-focused sibling, it’s all about the noodles. Udon, to be exact. Yaki Shak made its debut appearance at the weekly Friday night market outside the Arnolfini at the end of June, and will be trading regularly at the Harbourside Market from now on. Expect udon noodles fried with onion, cabbage, ’shroom, red ginger, and a variety of toppings, such as garlic miso chicken, slow-cooked pork belly, or marinated tofu. eatchu.co.uk
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK LOOK HERE, IT’S TOM HANCOCK, HEAD CHEF AT THE SPOTTED COW
So Tom, been cooking long? I started when I was 16, at a restaurant in Clifton. What first inspired you to cook professionally? There were a lot of cookery programmes on TV when I was young, in particular Jamie Oliver shows. I wasn’t that keen on school and wanted a more practical career, and Jamie Oliver showed how you could be successful even if you didn’t like school. Where locally might we know you from? I’ve been at Riverstation, The Gallimaufry, and I was also at The Runcible Spoon for a while. What attracted you to The Spotted Cow, then? I’ve been going here for many years as a customer, and often chatted to the previous head chef about food. I loved their passion, and it’s a great pub with a good reputation. How have you approached the menu? I’ve been conscious that The Spotted Cow already has a great rep as a gastropub, so I wanted to put my own stamp on the menu without moving too far way from the classic British pub food that it’s known for. Can we expect much change now youʼre at the helm? I’m not planning to steer away from the current ethos of the kitchen; weʼre all about good ingredients sourced from the best local suppliers. What are your favourite ingredients to cook with right now? Radishes and beetroot are in season at the moment, and we’ve been growing them on our
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roof garden at the pub. They’re great in salads, but can also fit into many other dishes as well. Current favourite flavour combination? Sweet and sour always works well; we do a lot of pickling, and this is great paired with fish. How would you describe your style of cooking? Simple, fun and creative, but inspired by my training in classic cuisine. Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in? My favourite at the moment is Root down at Cargo; the quality of the food is excellent, and they have some really interesting ideas on the menu. What makes the local foodie scene so great, do you think? The amount of good chefs – and also front of house staff – in Bristol is phenomenal; Bristol has become a hub for good food. What’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far, then? Being head chef at The Spotted Cow is a big role to fill; we are a busy kitchen with high standards. Proudest career achievement? I’m most proud of having my own team. I’m working with a great sous chef, Jake Norris, and I’m proud of how we work together to create what we do. Who’s your biggest foodie hero? My mate, Martin Stone. I worked with him at Riverstation and The Galli. thespottedcowbristol.com
S T A R T E R S
NICE BUNS
IT’S ROB CALIFF, GENERAL MANAGER AT THE DANDY LION How long have you worked here? Since last September. And how long have you been in hospitality for? I started in the industry back home in Skerries, Ireland, almost 15 years ago. What do you like most about working in the industry? The opportunity to meet new people every day, as well as see familiar faces. No two days are the same. What’s the best thing about your current job? The amazing team I work with on a daily basis, both back and front of house. Without them The Dandy Lion wouldn’t be the success it is. What kind of relationship does front of house have with the kitchen team? We have recently recruited an amazing new head chef and sous chef, and the two departments have never worked so well alongside each other. What skills have you learnt since coming here? How to deal with all different types of characters; it’s almost impossible to please everyone, but it’s how you carry yourself in dealing with people that matters the most. If you were a customer today, what would you order? Definitely the summer gnocchi; it’s so tasty and colourful, yet light enough to leave room for dessert. What makes the restaurant a special place to visit? We offer a cosy environment along with a high level of customer service – great food and drink doesn’t have to be pretentious or over the top. What makes great customer service? It’s all about communication with guests and staff alike. Reading your guest is always vital, too. Where have you visited locally where the customer service was excellent? I received outstanding customer service at Ravello’s in Bradford-on-Avon recently. The guys in there know how to look after their guests. thedandylionboa.co.uk
Honest Burgers has arrived in Bristol. Sure, we already have plenty of patties being served in the city, but when they’re as good quality as this, there’s room for more. Honest Burgers was founded in 2011 in Brixton by two mates, and ever since the early days hasn’t been afraid to do things differently. It uses chuck and rib cap cuts, hand chopped as opposed to minced, to give its patties full-on flavour and great texture; it even has its own butchery outfit to make sure its beef is the best it can be. The new gaff is on Clare Street in the centre, and has a Bristolian special on the menu, featuring smoked Westcombe Cheddar and cheese curds, and a Pilton cider and bacon gravy. There’s even Honest Gin (made by local microdistillery Psychopomp), which makes a great aperitif, too. honestburgers.co.uk
SHAKE THAT
Already rich in indie food and drink businesses, North Street in Bristol now has one extra draw for those hunting down some of the city’s best food and drink. Shake Shack, which opened in May, is the younger sibling of an Essex milkshake shop, founded in 2012. It’s run by Chris Horsley, who’s lived in Bristol for the past six years – itʼs his sister and mum who head up the original site back east. The concept? Quality milkshakes made with proper ingredients – and boy, are there tonnes of ingredients to choose from. Everything from fresh fruit to all kinds of chocolate bars and sweets are available to be combined with milk and ice cream to make your dream sip – while seasonal flavours will pop up regularly, too. shakeshack.com
SLICE AS NICE
Pizzarova has just opened its third Bristol gaff. After launching on Gloucester Road back in 2015, it became well known for its quality sourdough pizzas and soon opened a new site in a crate at Wapping Wharf. This third outlet, located in the former La Tomatina at the bottom of Park Street, is the largest yet, with space for 45 diners. There’s a takeaway service here too though, of course, and delivery is on offer courtesy of Deliveroo. pizzarova.com
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MUCH TO DO THIS PAGE IS ALL ABOUT WHAT YOU NEED TO ADD TO YOUR FOODIE TO-DO LIST FOR THE MONTH AHEAD – PENS AT THE READY!
NEW!
2. GRAB A BREW AT THE NEW TINCAN This newcomer to Gloucester Road sure knows its beans; the current guest espresso is Burtukaana from Ethiopia, which is ethically sourced directly from the farmers, just like all the coffee here. If you’re on the go, take in your own cup and you’ll get a 10p discount (and we dare you to pass up on the homemade sausage rolls). tincancoffee.co.uk
1. COOL OFF WITH ONE OF PIEMINISTER’S NEW PIE-CRUST SUNDAES There are eight on offer, including this season’s special, ‘strawberry blonde’. It’s made with velvety strawberry and West Country clotted cream ice cream, fresh strawbs, whipped cream and strawberry sauce – and comes in a pie crust-style cone, of course! pieminister.co.uk
3. SIP SOMETHING NEW AT INDEPENDENT SPIRIT The drinks pros at this cool Bath booze shop host some top guided tasting events. This month there’s a tequila and mezcal tasting session (which should help you banish those memories of awful shots), and another featuring superpremium rums that we bet you wonʼt have tried before. independentspiritofbath.co.uk
5. GO CRUISIN’ WITH RIVERSTATION
4. TAKE A (CULINARY) TRIP TO PORTUGAL AT NEW MOON
The warmer weather has brought with it the return of this well-known restaurant’s supper clubs. They’ll start with a river cruise, courtesy of Bristol Ferry Company, which will end at Riverstation’s pontoon. Then guests can enjoy a welcome drink and three-course meal over those belting views. Get your tickets in advance! riverstation.co.uk
This long-standing Clifton small plate restaurant has a specials menu that changes with each new moon, and focuses on the cuisine of different cultures from around the world. From 8 July to 3 August it’s all about Portugal, with dishes including a traditional feijoada, made with pork, cabbage and beans. newmoontapas.co.uk
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Tea aficionado Keight Comerford runs Bristol’s Bird and Blend shop
@newbslovesfood visits oldie but goodie, @3brosburgers
BIRD AND BLEND TEA CO WHAT: TEA BLENDS WHERE: 73 PARK STREET, BRISTOL BS1 5PB WHEN: MON-FRI 10.30AM-6PM; SATURDAY 10AM-6PM; SUN 10.30AM-5.30PM
@thecafeacademic tucks into a colourful salad
@_fussfreefoodie brews up a batch of elderflower cordial Your pic could be here! Just use #CrumbsSnaps on your foodie Insta posts and we might print one of yours next issue...
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he aroma that permeates this tea shop – a subtle mix of fruits and herbs – is almost reminiscent of an old-school sweet shop, with whispers of peppermint and liquorish decipherable among the well-melded scents. A spacious, calm and light-filled space, Bird and Blend is easily recognisable on Park Street, its façade covered in a bold blue mural painted by local artist Alex Lucas. It’s been open for just over two years, and manager Keight Comerford has been here since the beginning. This was the third store for the indie tea business (you may know it by its former name of Bluebird Tea Co), which was founded by Krisi Smith and Mike Turner in 2013. There have been four more openings since, as the company has grown alongside the public’s interest in, and understanding of, this kind of brew. “Tea is where coffee was five years ago,” Keight says. “People are realising now that there’s loads more to it than just the pure black tea. We try to make our tea fun and creative.” Speaking of which, these guys don’t sell pure, single-origin teas – so don’t come in for a builders’. It’s all about the blends; Krisi is head mixologist, and creates all the unique offerings, having sourced her ingredients directly from farmers all over the world. Her imaginative infusions show how different teas can be, while staying affordable, accessible and ethical.
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While all the teas (which start at £3) can be made hot, a large proportion are great cold, too. When we swung by there were samples of blends brewed with not just water, but lemonade and oat milk as well. (You’ll find, amongst the collection of cool looseleaf teaware here, filter bottles for cold brewing and infusing, so you can do it yourself at home.) And collabs with other local gaffs – such as cocktail bar The Clockwork Rose – see the blends used in even more creative ways. Along the shelves are well known and less familiar teas, such as pu’erh (made from fermented black tea), and South American yerba mate. Rooibos, as a caffeine-free option, is one tea seeing a particular surge in interest, as people increasingly cut back on the C. Other blends that are doing well for themselves are the blue raspberry number (which turns the water blue – or pink if you add a squeeze of lemon – thanks to blue pea flowers), and the summery Mojitea (featuring peppermint, lime and green tea), which is great served cold with a sprig of fresh mint. Almost everything these guys use is compostable, biodegradable or recyclable, and they offer a 10 percent discount if you bring in your own containers for your blends. And just as much attention is paid to the customer experience, with staff on hand to help customers navigate the colourful and aromatic world of tea. Regular mixology workshops are even held here too, meaning anyone can have a go at concocting their very own... birdandblendtea.com
S T A R T E R S
In the Larder 2
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LIfe’s a pICNIC
OR AT LEAST IT IS WHEN YOU HAVE PLENTY OF LOCAL TREATS LIKE THESE TO PACK IN YER BASKET 1. MezzeSoul Pomegranate Mustard, from £2.70/140ml Slather it on thick-cut ham, dunk your pork pie in it, or whisk it into a salad dressing; this pomegranate-based sauce is just one of a range from Middle Eastern inspired Bristol-based food business, MezzeSoul. Their website has loads of recipes and inspo on how to use these cracking condiments, too. Find it at White Row Farm Shop and Bristol’s Southville Deli; healthyrecipes.uk.com 2. Guildhall Deli Caramelised Onion and Goat’s Cheese Scotch Egg, £3.50/each A mix of sweet onion and subtly salty goat’s cheese is wrapped around boiled egg with a soft, glowing orange yolk. Finished off with breadcrumbs and fried until golden, it’ll be a great addition to that alfresco spread. Homemade by the guys at the Guildhall Deli, it also comes in pulled pork, chicken and chorizo, and all day breakfast flavours. Find them all at the Guildhall Deli in Bath; theguildhalldeli.co.uk 3. Real Cure Wild Venison Chorizo, £5.45/110g This South West producer uses wild British deer to create its rather special chorizo, smoked over oak for three days. The meat is combined with back fat (as well as paprika and oregano) to achieve the best result in terms of both flavour and texture. It’ll fit nicely in that basket as a tasty nibble. Get it online from Farmdrop; farmdrop.com 4. In a Pickle Pineapple Habanero Chutney, £3.95/190g Sweet and fruity but with a bold kick of heat, this Wiltshire-made pineapple and chilli chutney will earn its place at summery outdoor meals. Buddy it up with cold meats, get it involved with barbecued burgers, or, if you’ve got a wood-fired oven, use it as a pizza topping for a twist on a Hawaiian. Find it at local shops and delis and online; inapicklefoodco.co.uk 5. Lost and Grounded Keller Pils, from £2.30/330ml In this heat, we’re all about the lager – and this bad boy, from a forward-thinking local craft brewery, is a corker. It’s light golden, crisp and refreshing; an easy drinking alfresco sip to fill your cool box with. (New 440ml cans have just been released too, making it even more picnic friendly.) Find it at Corks of Bristol and Independent Spirit of Bath; lostandgrounded.co.uk
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S T A R T E R S
AS THE SUN HAS HIS HAT ON, WEʼRE MAKING THE MOST OF IT WITH LIGHT, FRESH GRUB AND INSPIRATION FOR COOKING OUTSIDE...
FIRED: WOOD OVEN COOKING Jon Finch and Ben Merrington (Sphere, £16.99) From the Bristol-based creators of barbecue brand Grillstock, this new book is fuelling the fires of the outdoor cookery trend. The aim is for people to get the most culinary return possible from their wood-fired oven investment. All your essential info is here – think advice on equipment, fuel, temperatures and managing the fire – as well as heaps of imaginative recipes, ranging from the simple to the out-of-the-box. Pizzas include calzone and pizzettas, while the brunches (such as French toast with coulis), seafood creations (like salmon cooked on a wooden plank), one-pots (think beef barbacoa), and other mains, sides, breads and desserts, prove that there is not one meal of the day that your wood fired oven can’t be used for. Jessica Carter SALAD FEASTS: HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE PERFECT MEAL Jessica Elliott Dennison (Hardie Grant, £16.99) Why salad? It’s a relaxed, speedy and versatile meal that can be as simple or fancy as you want, reckons cook, food stylist and café owner Jessica Elliott Dennison. And that’s not to mention hearty; her dishes are substantial and varied, ranging from the kind of light, leafy salads you’d want in warmer months (like the fig, radicchio and halloumi number, for instance) to big bowls to curl up with in winter, such as mushroom and rosemary wild rice with crispy kale and garlic. Helpful notes on the building blocks of a good salad, the art of assembly, go-to ingredients and substitutes act as gentle nudges from Jessica to be brave and deviate from her recipes as you see fit. Also including various accompaniments for the salads, this book holds a whole lot of culinary inspiration. Jessica Carter CIBI: SIMPLE JAPANESE-INSPIRED MEALS TO SHARE WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS Meg and Zenta Tanaka (Hardie Grant, £22) Meg Tanaka and husband Zenta met in Australia, and together conceived café and store Cibi, where they create Westernised versions of Asian food. There’s
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S T A R T E R S
From La Grotta Ices by Kitty Travers (Square Peg, £18.99); photography by Grant Cornett
plenty of Oz in this handsome, almost Scandistyle book – kingfish and yellowtail crop up many times – but there’s lots of Japan, too. The pages are packed with fresh, not-toointimidating vegetable-based dishes, as well as interesting Asian twists on hearty Euro classics, from sandwiches to gratins. With many dishes featuring only a half-dozen ingredients and a handful of instructions, Cibi takes the fear out of Japanese cooking – and if something like the slow-cooked beef cheek with red wine and hatcho miso is slightly more complicated, the operative word is ‘slightly’. This book is strong on light dishes in particular, and may well transform our lunchtimes. Matt Bielby PLANTED: A CHEF’S SHOW-STOPPING RECIPES Chantelle Nicholson (Kyle Books, £25) Chantelle began her culinary career at The Savoy before moving on to work with Marcus Wareing. Now group operations director for Marcus Wareing Restaurants, co-author of his cookbooks and chef-patron at Tredwells, she’s released her first solo book of plant-based recipes. Through her collection of imaginative, seasonal dishes she explores many culinary uses of fruits and vegetables, inspired by a childhood spent outdoors, growing food. Recipes largely feature everyday ingredients and, although they take home cooking to new levels, their lists of components and methods are largely kept short and simple. Snacks such as beetroot and pine nut tartlets, mains like slow-cooked aubergine with tamarind and white bean purée, and desserts like the fancy lemon meringue tarts will have you achieving restaurant-standard dishes at home. Jessica Carter
BARBADOS CUSTARD THIS IS A LIGHT and not-too-sweet ice cream, with a delicious old fashioned flavour. It’s my signature vanilla and is popular all year, as it’s refreshing in summer yet also excellent served alongside more wintery puddings – I’m thinking of Christmas pudding, in particular. SERVES 4-6
1 vanilla pod 400ml whole milk pinch of sea salt 6 egg yolks 60g sugar 50g raw turbinado (or light brown muscovado sugar) 200g crème fraîche 1 tbsp dark rum
LA GROTTA ICES Kitty Travers (Square Peg, £18.99) A whole book of ice cream recipes sounds a little samey, but La Grotta Ices is immensely entertaining, thanks to the intriguing flavours on offer – pear, myrtle and ginger; sea salt, rosemary and pine nut; cucumber and sour cream – as well as to Kitty herself. She sells her creations out of her Piaggio Ape and travels regularly through Italy and the US, exploring new techniques and flavours. Her passion and humour shine through in the book, as she discusses everything from the smell of papaya (baby sick, apparently) to getting bleeding gums from eating too much kiwi fruit. Little surprise, then, that La Grotta Ices was shortlisted for the Jane Grigson Trust Award – or that we’re going to try making pea pod ice cream next weekend, something we never thought we’d hear ourselves saying. Matt Bielby
1 Split the vanilla pod using the tip of a sharp knife, scrape out its seeds then add both seeds and pod to a nonreactive pan, along with the milk and sea salt. Stir often using a whisk or silicone spatula to prevent it catching. Once the liquid is hot and steaming, whisk the egg yolks and both sugars together in a separate bowl until combined. 2 Pour the hot milk over the yolks in a thin stream, whisking continuously. Return all the mix to the pan and cook over a low heat until it reaches 82C, stirring all the time to avoid curdling the eggs and keeping a close eye on it so as not to let it boil. As soon as your digital thermometer says 82C, place the pan into a sink of iced water. 3 Add the crème fraîche and rum and whisk into the custard. Speed up the cooling process by stirring the mix every so often. Once the custard is at room temperature, scrape it into a clean container, cover with cling film and chill in the fridge. 4 The following day, use a small ladle to push the custard through a finemesh sieve or chinois into a clean container. Reserve the vanilla pod then liquidise the cold custard with a stick blender for a minute. Pour the custard into an ice cream machine and churn according to the machine’s instructions until frozen and the texture of stiff whipped cream, about 20-25 minutes. 5 Scrape the ice cream into a suitable lidded container. Top with a piece of waxed paper to limit exposure to air, cover and freeze until ready to serve.
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CHEF!
WHAT TO MA HOW TO MA KE AND DIRECT FROMKE IT – KITCHENS OF THE FAVOURITE F OUR OODIES Salted peanuts aren’t just for snacking on with a pint; they go into a great dal this month to up its game in texture and flavour
HIGHLIGHTS
ON THE VIER
JERSEY ROYALS AN GE VIERGE MAKE THISD SAUCE FI RATHER DISHY SHY
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SHEEPSTAKE
LAMB RUMP, SERVED WITH A DASH OF SUMMER PAGE 34
PLUS!
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DUKE OF POR
RICH PULLED PORK K WIT FRESH, TANGY SIDES H PAGE 36
SNEAK A PEEK AT WHAT’S GOING TO BE SERVED AT THIS YEAR’s VALLEY FEST
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BASS hUNTER
EDDY RAINS SURE DOESN’T MESS ABOUT IN THE KITCHEN – WHICH LUCKILY MAKES FOR SOME EASYTO-FOLLOW RECIPES FOR US...
The Wheatsheaf is a rural pub in the little village of Combe Hay, within the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Rustic but stylish, this joint has a menu to match, featuring dishes like this little number. It’s a light, summery creation starring some great quality seafood. Refreshingly simple to prepare, it leaves you with no excuse for not giving it a crack at home...
WILD SEA BASS, CRUSHED JERSEY ROYALS AND SAUCE VIERGE SERVES 4 1-1.5kg wild sea bass 500g Jersey Royals 50g unsalted butter, plus extra handful parsley, finely chopped 6 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 shallot, finely chopped handful mixed olives, pitted and chopped 10 sunblushed tomatoes, chopped small handful chives, finely chopped small handful basil, finely chopped 1 tbsp capers 1 lemon, juice only 250g samphire 1 Fillet, descale and pin bone the sea bass (or ask your fishmonger to do it for you). Cut into 4 portions, and score lines in the skin to allow for even cooking.
2 Wash the Jersey Royals and cook them in salted boiling water until a knife goes through with no resistance. Then drain and crush them with a fork. Mix in the butter and parsley, and season. 3 To make the sauce vierge, heat the rapeseed oil in a pan. Gently sweat the shallot until soft, then leave it to cool to room temperature. Chop the olives and tomatoes and add to the oil along with the herbs, capers and a good squeeze of lemon. Season to taste. 4 Blanch the samphire in boiling water for 30 seconds. 5 Heat a glug of oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Place the sea bass in, skin side down, and cook for 2 minutes, applying pressure to the flesh to stop it from curling up. Then flip over and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the drained samphire, a knob of butter and a squeeze of lemon to the pan. 6 To serve, add the potato to the plates, top with the sauce vierge, and then place the fish on top.
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The Wheatsheaf, Combe Hay, Bath BA2 7EG; 01225 833504; wheatsheafcombehay.com
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LAMB FINE!
TOM BLAKE HAS A COLOURFUL SUMMER DISH FOR US, STARRING JUICY LAMB RUMP...
As executive chef, Tom not only cooks at Timbrell’s Yard, but also oversees the kitchens of its sister sites across the South West: The Swan in Wedmore, The White Hart in Somerton, and The Grosvenor Arms in Shaftesbury. Tom formerly headed up the kitchen at River Cottage and, given that pedigree, it’s unsurprising to learn that he’s big on ingredients, provenance and seasonality, and celebrates nature’s ever-changing larder in his menus. Here’s the recipe for one of his most popular dishes on the current bill of fare at the Bradford-on-Avon pub.
ROAST RUMP OF LAMB WITH SALSA VERDE, JERSEY ROYALS, RAINBOW CHARD, PEAS AND RADISH SERVES 4 800g Jersey Royals 150g chard 4 lamb rumps (approx. 170g each) rapeseed oil 4 radishes, finely sliced For the pea purée: 350g peas (fresh or frozen) 100g salted butter 75ml water For the salsa verde: 20g parsley 20g mint 50g capers 1 garlic clove ½ tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp olive oil
1 For the pea purée, put the peas, butter and water in a pan. Cover and heat to steam the peas until they’re just soft. Using a blender, blitz the peas with the liquid until smooth, and season to taste. 2 Cook the Jersey Royals in boiling salted water until tender. Leave to cool until you can touch them, then slice in half. 3 Separate the chard stalks from the leaves, and roughly slice and wash the leaves. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and blanch the stalks for 2 minutes, then add the leaves and cook for 1 more minute before draining and refreshing in cold water. 4 For the salsa verde, roughly chop the parsley, mint and capers and put in a bowl. Grate in the garlic with a fine grater, add the mustard, red wine vinegar, oil and a splash of water, and stir well. Season to taste. 5 Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. 6 Season the lamb rumps and heat some rapeseed oil in a large frying pan on the hob. Add the rumps and fry until they’re nicely coloured on the outside. Then place into the oven for 8 minutes. When the lamb is done, take it out of the hot pan (so it doesn’t continue to cook) and let it rest for 5 minutes. Once rested, slice each rump into 3 pieces. 7 Whilst the lamb is resting, take a separate frying pan, add a splash of rapeseed oil and the Jersey Royals, and start to colour the potatoes. Then add the chard stalks and leaves to warm through. 8 Warm up the pea purée in a saucepan. 9 To plate, start with the pea purée in the middle, and add the Jersey Royals on top with some wilted chard. Put the sliced lamb on top, drizzle over the salsa verde and sprinkle with radish.
Timbrell’s Yard, 49 St Margaret’s Street, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1DE; 01225 869492; timbrellsyard.com
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ON ThE PULL
KIERAN JEFFERSON HAS BEEN RAIDING FRESH RANGE’S LARDER AND COME UP TRUMPS WITH THIS PULLED PORK DISH…
PULLED PORK BUN WITH FERMENTED CABBAGE AND FENNEL ’SLAW AND MUSTARD MAYO SERVES 6 For the pork: 500g free range pork shoulder 1 onion, peeled and halved 1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 2 bay leaves 20g parsley stalks 10 black peppercorns 1 star anise For the ’slaw: 50g fennel 100g red cabbage 100g sauerkraut, drained 10g flat leaf parsley, chopped For the mayo: 50g mayonnaise 10g Dijon mustard 50g natural yoghurt To serve: 6 burger buns mixed leaves 1 Preheat the oven to 110C/230F/gas mark ¼. 2 Place the pork ingredients in a deep roasting tin and cover completely with water. Cover with a lid and cook for 6 hours. (Alternatively, simmer in a lidded saucepan for 6 hours, checking water levels occasionally.) When cooked, remove from the oven, and leave it to cool a little (but not too much, as the pork is easier to pull if still warm). 3 Once slightly cooled, take the pork out of the cooking liquid and set aside. Pour the liquid through a sieve, and keep it to use later (there should also be some left over for you to use in soups and stocks). 4 Using two forks, pull the pork apart into strands and set aside. Any extra pork from a larger shoulder could now be frozen for a later date. 5 For the ’slaw, use a mandolin or slicing blade on a food processor to slice the fennel and red cabbage into thin strands, keeping some of the shape of the fennel. Combine in a bowl with the drained sauerkraut and chopped parsley. Season to taste and set aside. 6 For the mayo, combine the ingredients well using a whisk or blender. 7 To serve, slice each bun in half horizontally, and lightly toast each half. 8 In a pan, reheat the pulled pork with a little of the reserved cooking liquid until the liquid has nearly gone, and season to taste before use. Put the hot pork on the bottom of the bun, add the ʼslaw on top, dress with the mustard mayo, and finish with the top half of the bun. Serve with salad – and maybe fries, too!
The folk at fresh-range, Bristol and Bath’s online local food shop, buddied with Kieran Jefferson (food writer, and former head of food at Friska) to come up with this summery dish to showcase their high welfare meat and locally sourced produce. Perfect for summer parties, this creation, says the Fresh Range team, uses the aromatic sweetness of fennel (at its best from June until October) to cut through the richness of the pork – along with the slight fizz and tang of that sauerkraut. The free range pork Kieran has used comes from Packington, while the rolls are baked by Hobbs House, and the veg is courtesy of Hove Farm, Farrington’s Farm, Paget’s Produce, and The Severn Project – all local independent businesses. You can learn about the producers and order the ingredients for this recipe on the Fresh Range website. Your shopping will be delivered in sustainable, reusable packaging that keeps everything fresh – so you don’t even have to be there when they drop it off. Shopping like this keeps food miles minimal and ensures the producers get fair prices for their goods. This recipe is for 500g of pork, but you can adjust quantities as needed for the size of the pork shoulder, and use the leftover pulled pork for additional meals, or freeze to keep for longer.
fresh-range.com
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KINd Of a BIG daL
JONATHAN WILLIAMS GIVES MONKFISH AN INDIAN TWIST WITH SOME GENTLE SPICE...
Jonathan has been a chef for 18 years, having worked for AA rosette-awarded and Michelin recommended restaurants. He even did a stage at Heston Blumenthal’s three-Michelin-starred Fat Duck. Now he heads up the kitchen at Bath Racecourse, where heʼs been for three years. This is one of the dishes he and the team serve there, and it always goes down a treat. “It’s fresh and colourful, and tastes delicious,” Jonathan says, “which is why I think it sends people away smiling.” For a vegan version of the dal, you can use soy milk and coconut cream instead of the dairy, and veg stock in place of chicken – it would make a great accompaniment to a vegetable curry.
MASALA MONKFISH WITH RED LENTIL AND PEANUT DAL AND CARROT AND CORIANDER BHAJI SERVES 6 For the bhaji: 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 red onions, thinly sliced 1 carrot, coarsely grated 1 courgette, coarsely grated 4 tsp salt 150g chickpea flour ¼ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp garam masala 150ml cold water 1 bunch coriander, chopped neutral oil, for deep frying For the dal: 275g red lentils 2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced rapeseed oil 2 tbsp medium curry powder 150ml milk 50ml double cream 150ml chicken stock
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1 lemon (zest and juice) 100g salted peanuts For the monkfish: rapeseed oil, for searing 6 monkfish tail portions (approx. 150g each), trimmed and cleaned of sinew 3 tbsp mild curry powder 75g unsalted butter 1 To make the onion bhajis, mix the prepared vegetables with 2 tbsp salt and leave in a colander over a bowl for 30-45 minutes. Then squeeze out the excess moisture and add the flour, spices, remaining salt and the cold water. Mix in the coriander (reserving a small amount for garnish at the end) and shape into balls, about the size of a golf ball. 2 Pour oil in a deep pan and heat to 175C. When hot, lower in the bhajis and fry until golden brown and cooked throughout (do this in batches). If they start to colour too quickly, you can cook in the oven at 160C/310F/gas mark 3 for 12-15 minutes. 3 For the dal, bring the lentils to the boil in plenty of unsalted water, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain well and leave to stand for 5 minutes. 4 Sweat the onions in the rapeseed oil until soft, then add the curry powder and cook out for 5 minutes. Pour in the cooked lentils, milk, cream and stock and cook for a further 20-30 minutes on a low heat until a thick dal is created, similar in texture to loose porridge. Add the lemon zest and juice, and the peanuts, and season. 5 For the monkfish, heat the rapeseed oil in a nonstick frying pan. Coat the monkfish in the curry powder and gently sear in the pan until it turns golden brown. Add the butter and lower the heat. Gently baste the monkfish until just firm to touch, about 5-8 minutes. 6 Transfer the fish to a chopping board to carve at an angle. Serve on the dal with the bhajis. Sprinkle with the remaining chopped coriander, or micro coriander shoots, if available. Royal Crescent Restaurant at Bath Racecourse, Lansdown, Bath BA1 9BU; 01225 424609; bath-racecourse.co.uk
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POSEIDONʼS PASSION SERVES 12 For the parfait: 35ml water 100g caster sugar 70g egg yolk (3-4 eggs) 250g double cream 250g Yeo Valley’s Passion Fruit Curd yoghurt 12 raspberries, to garnish
VALLEY BALL
PAUL COLLINS IS ENCOURAGING US TO DIG OUT OUR TENTS: THERE’S A PARTY HAPPENING IN CHEW VALLEY AND, BOY, IS IT GOING TO BE A TASTY ONE... Valley Fest, which is happening this year on 3-5 August, is a family-friendly event that celebrates organic food and farming. The festival and its campsite are located on The Community Farm, looking out over Chew Valley Lake and the Mendips. Founded by local organic farming hero Luke Hasell in 2015, its purpose is to get kids – and adults! – not only enjoying some seriously good grub, but also engaging with its story and learning about its wider impact on the environment. All while enjoying fun activities and live music, and generally basking in good vibes. This year is set to be the biggest and most exciting yet, with a packed out programme of feasts and activities. Kicking off culinary proceedings on Friday is a threecourse banquet prepared by chef Paul Collins and his team from the Yeo Valley Canteen. On Saturday night, hungry festival goers will gather around the fire pit for a midnight feast, and chefs will be cooking up a right fancy picnic on Sunday – expect barbecue chicken from Luke, salad by Michelin-starred Josh Eggleton, a vegetable asado by Farmdrop, and pulled pork baps by Paul. Foodie workshops, talks and demos will be taking place over the weekend in the Chew Down tent, too: Farmdrop will be running a pasta making class; Coombe Farm have a butchery demo and burger making session; Pat Hart and Sherrie Eugene-Hart will be showcasing their Carib-Asian cookery; and Elly Pear will be popping up to talk all things food. To give you a taste of the top notch food that’ll be cooked up on Luke’s farm over the festival, Yeo Valley’s Paul Collins has shared this belter of a recipe with us, which will be the dessert for his special marine-themed Friday night feast.
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For the tuiles: 100g flour 100g icing sugar 3 egg whites 100g butter, melted For the coulis: 600g raspberries 150g caster sugar 1 ½ lemons (juice only) 1 Place the water into a pan, add the sugar and heat the mixture to 116C (you can use a thermometer to ensure you have the right temperature). 2 Add the egg yolks to a mixer and beat while very slowly adding the boiled sugar mix down the side of the bowl. Keep going gradually until it is all incorporated, and the mix is very light and fluffy. Continue beating until it is cool to the touch. 3 Whip the cream until stiff and fold it into the cooled egg mixture. Then add the yoghurt and fold that in, too. 4 Pour into the mould(s) and leave in the freezer overnight. (You can use individual moulds or one large one, which would make for a lovely centrepiece.) 5 For the tuiles, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4, and line a baking tray with parchment. You’ll need a stencil – you can buy these or make your own from a plastic lid by cutting out your shape of choice. 6 Sieve the flour and icing sugar into a bowl. Beat in the egg whites, then add the melted butter and combine. 7 Place the stencil on the parchment and spread the mixture into the hole to make each biscuit. Bake until the biscuits turn golden brown – about 4-5 minutes. 8 Once cooked, remove from the oven and place each biscuit over the back of a rolling pin to curl it (if you want to make it extra fancy). If they’re not crisp, then put back in the oven for a little longer. 9 For the coulis, place the raspberries into a measuring jug along with the sugar and the lemon juice. Blend with the hand blender and then pass through a very fine sieve. 10 When ready to serve, turn the parfait out of the mould(s) and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Garnish with the raspberries, coulis and tuile. Valley Fest day and weekend tickets (with or without camping) are available online now, as are tickets for the Friday, Saturday and Sunday feasts. Visit the website for more details; valleyfest.co.uk
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Imagined in the 19th Century, Established in the 21st
Each cocktail has a story to tell ...will you be there to hear them?
Now available for venue hire and spirit and cocktail Masterclasses. Get 10% o your booking when you quote the code: Crumbs10 16 St. Stephens Street Bristol, BS1 1JR 0117 927 6869 theclockworkrose.com thecaptain@theclockworkrose.com
Our award winning Classic Amber Ale. 4% ABV. The connoisseur’s session ale. Brewed using locally sourced ingredients and 3 varieties of malt with Challenger and Fuggle hops to produce a well balanced hoppy palate. Our own unique strain of yeast plus our pure Cotswold water completes the story of making Bob a rounded moreish ale. A drinkers favourite.
500ml bottled Bob is available from selected South West retailers now including Morrisons. Bob in cask is also available in any of our 19 managed sites throughout Bristol and Gloucestershire. For further information visit - www.wickwarbrewing.co.uk
@Wickwarbrewery
@WickwarBrewing
01454 292 000
Nestled in 36 acres of beautiful West Country parkland, Ston Easton Park is unique; the hotel is adorned with original antique furniture, sumptuous fabrics and glistening chandeliers, yet the warm welcome and homely atmosphere prevails, creating an idyllic home-away-from-home.
ENJOY AN ALFRESCO AFTERNOON TEA Why not take a seat on our sunny terrace, where you can tuck into an array of sweet and savoury treats, served on beautiful tiered cakes stands. Alternatively you can enjoy afternoon tea inside in our stunning drawing rooms. Champagne afternoon teas and lighter cream teas are also available. Served from 12 noon | Early booking advised | Gift vouchers available
SPECIAL OFFER
Complimentary glass of Prosecco to all joining us for Afternoon Tea. QUOTE SCMB01 (Offer valid until 06/08/18)
To book, call 01761 241631 or email reception@stoneaston.co.uk
www.stoneaston.co.uk
AD VA N IS CED AD BO VIS OK ED IN G
Ston Easton, Nr Bath, Somerset BA3 4DF
COMING SOON TO BATH!
FULLY LICENSED PLANT-BASED EATERY WITH DAY & EVENING MENUS
99% gluten free menu* Organic Veg • Local beers & ciders Roasts (Sunday only - booking required) Safe space • LGBT+ friendly • Dogs welcome
*both gluten free and sourdough bread available Opening hours
Wed to Sat: 10am - 10.30pm Sunday: 12pm - 6pm
156 Wells Road, Totterdown, Bristol BS4 2AG 01172398704 • eygbristol@gmail.com eatyourgreensbristol
FT ENT CRA 0 DIFFER 10 . Y G A IN W V A SER AKE K IN OR T TLE SHOP TO DRIN Boy SE & BOT , U S O R E H P ID Brewed_ A C T TISAN ome | a R fr y A o & b d S e R k o.u BEE f brew wedboy.c info@bre
ARMOURY
CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS
MOst eGG-CeLLent!
FOR EGG-SQUISITE EGGS EVERY TIME, THIS EGG-STRAORDINARY EGG COOKER IS TRULY EGG-CEPTIONAL, SAYS MATT BIELBY. REALLY, HE’S EGG-STATIC. NO YOLK. I love a poached egg, but they’re such fussy little buggers to make. All those wispy, ghost-like trails in the water, and I never know quite when to take them out so the white’s nice and firm, but the yolk still runny. I’m no egg-spurt, but I feel your pain. And so, apparently, do the folk at Lakeland, who’ve hatched this Egg Cooker and Poacher that may just be the best breakfast-cum-brunch purchase you’ll ever make. It basically does everything for you, poaching your eggs twoat-a-time in little bowls over a thin layer of boiling water, and taking all the hassle out of things – a measuring jug even makes sure you use egg-sactly the right amount of water,
and the cooker turns itself off when it’s done, so all you need remember is to plop them onto your bacon, avocado or toast pronto, so they don’t overcook. While we’re at it, I struggle to boil an egg too. (How long does it take again?) Some say six minutes for a set white and runny yolk, others swear by five. This thing? It says: pop up to six eggs into my little holders over the same boiling water, and I’ll steam ’em for you. (Okay, they’re not strictly ‘boiled’, but the effect is the same.) An additional, albeit minor, benefit: the dome over the top means the kitchen doesn’t fill with stream, either.
Sounds perfect! And, since I now feel I can trust you, can I share something else too? I’m (whisper it) really not much good at omelettes, either… You really are a hopeless egg-sample, aren’t you? Luckily for you, omeletting this slide, for there’s also an omelette tray – and, before you confess more secret shames, yes, you can use this bit of kit to make scrambled eggs, and even mayonnaise, too. All in all, buying this little device is well worth the whisk. The 6 Boiled Egg Cooker and Poacher costs £19.99 from Lakeland in Bath or Cribbs Causeway; lakeland.co.uk
THIS MONTH • SHELLING OUT • FORGE AHEAD • TROPICAL TRINKETS
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Pete the Pear’s Children’s Menu 3 courses plus a drink for £7.50 Top Lane, Whitley, Wiltshire SN12 8QX T f @peartreewhitley 01225 704966
www.peartreewhitley.co.uk
The Supper Club
ThE GOOd PLaCE
WHATEVER KIND OF VENUE CLEM BALFOUR’S YOGA AND FEAST EVENTS POP-UP AT – FROM A CHAPEL TO AN OLD BLACKSMITHS – YOU CAN BE SURE THEY’RE GOING TO BE FULL OF CONTENTED SMILES….
Words by JESSICA CARTER Photos by ALICE WHITBY
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The Forge is a gorgeous, industrial style events space, used both as a studio and dining room for the purposes of this evening
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ood has tonnes of effects on the human body; our energy levels, skin, fitness and size, just for starters, are all influenced by the food we load into ourselves. But what we eat (and how we eat it) doesn’t just contribute to physical factors – it can massively affect the state of our minds, too. Recent research has even found that eating alone strongly correlates with levels of unhappiness. We’ve never had a better scientific understanding of wellbeing, or – probably – a more holistic view of it, than we do now. This is perhaps one of the reasons that the millennia-old practice of yoga has become so popular over the last couple of decades. Like food, exercise can affect both our body and our mind in positive ways – and yoga is specifically designed to focus on mental aspects as well as strength and fitness. Pairing up the two was a bit of a no-brainer for Clem Balfour, then, who began running yoga brunches about four years ago in London, where she lived. “I used to work in events – I was an events manager for The School of Life – and when I first started teaching yoga it occurred to me to combine it with food,” she tells us. “I’d get my mates together, teach them yoga, then cook dinner. It’s a nice way to get together and socialise without drinking. People always leave these events happy, and feeling really good. It’s like they’ve nourished themselves on all levels.” As her yoga dinners grew, Clem started to collaborate with different chefs on the food, and bring in guest teachers for the yoga sessions, too. Running one event each month in both London and Bristol, Clem (who’s now moved back west) uses different spaces to keep things fresh and unique. “We did one last weekend in an old chapel in Peckham – it was a really challenging space but
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‘Tsukemono’ is a Japanese dish of pickled vegetables, and there was plenty of it on the colourful menu...
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I loved it. We take people off to these little corners of the city to discover what’s there.” It was at an equally quirky and off-the-beatentrack venue that Clem hosted her most recent yoga and dinner club. The Forge dates back to the mid 19th century, and started out as a coach house before becoming a blacksmiths. The bare brick walls, leaded windows, weathered floorboards and iron staircase all nod towards its industrial backstory and help create a really atmospheric space, which is used for live music performances, workshops, talks and, of course, supper clubs. It’s found in a small courtyard, down an unassuming alley off Colston Street, and out the back has elevated views over a historic patch of urban Bristol. This event was a collaboration with Japanese street food business Tsukemono, who a friend recommended to Clem. Founded by Iris Hable and Adam Hartshorne, Tsukemono is the manifestation of the pair’s appreciation of Japanese culture.
“We love the sense of refinement and playfulness (and sometimes just downright madness) that is so intrinsic to Japan,” Iris explains. “That is the sensibility we hope to bring to our food. Our menu is purposefully inclusive in both form and content; we cater for everyone, from vegans to ethical omnivores. “There is still quite a narrow conception of what Japanese food is, but there is so much beyond sushi and ramen. That’s what we aim to show.” Iris and Adam both actually do yoga themselves, so jumped at the chance to cater for this dinner, where guests would have an hour’s yoga class before sharing a meal. And they reckon their food lends itself perfectly to this kind of wellbeing-focused event. “Japanese food is just one of the healthiest diets there is,” says Iris. “Low fat, high grain, fresh and pickled veg, soy, various ferments... “We thought about what we would like to eat, postyoga. Doing something good for yourself
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Adam and Iris note that Japanese food, with all its vegetables and pickles, is one of the healthiest cuisines around...
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doesn’t necessarily mean you have to compromise on enjoyment. Our idea was to give people a bit of a cool down after their workout, taking the menu from hot to cold: steamed dumplings, chilled noodles and, finally, ice cream.” After the yoga session, everyone mingled and chatted with drinks as the space was set up for dinner. Long tables stretched the width of the room, encouraging communal dining and conversation among guests – who often arrive alone and leave with new mates. This is another key reason why Clem wanted to explore this kind of event, she tells us. “I wanted to create a platform for the social element of yoga. When I started there really wasn’t much like it. The food is often purposefully quite social, with sharing plates and things.” Once the wooden tables and benches were out, Clem and her small team started setting the 28 places. Decked out with linen napkins, pastel coloured flowers in glass jars, enamel bowls and menus (which Clem always gets cool indie illustrators to design), the tables were nearly ready, save for the flames that were finally added to the tip of the tall, tapered candles, lined up along the middle of each table. With everyone seated, and Iris and Adam having given guests the low down on the menu, the first course was served: kabocha nikuman. These soft, plump dumplings had been filled with pumpkin and steamed; a great dish to satisfy comfort food cravings without the usual stodginess. Next was hiyashi chuka soba (or cold ramen, as it’s sometimes known); the messed soba noodles were topped with homemade seitan and finished with vegetables, pickles and fruit, for a bowl of bold and contrasting colours, textures and flavours. A vegan miso-ginger ice cream (also homemade, natch) finished off the meal, arriving in scoops peppered with black sesame brittle and crimson pomegranate seeds. “As soon as the first spoonfuls of ice cream hit tastebuds, there was a sudden hush in the room,” Iris later said. “This is what gives me that happy, glowing feeling: when conversation suddenly stops, because everyone is concentrating on experiencing the food. That’s when you know you’ve done something right.” With people eventually floating out of the venue, happy smiles on their faces, we reckon it was clear that Clem, Tsukemono and the rest of the team had done many things right that evening.
KABOCHA NIKUMAN (STEAMED PUMPKIN DUMPLINGS) (MAKES 14 DUMPLINGS)
For the dough: 300g plain flour (’00’ if you can), plus extra for rolling 2 tbsp granulated sugar ½ tsp salt 1 tsp dry yeast 1 tbsp pumpkin seed oil (or any other neutral oil) 160ml water handful pumpkin seeds
For the filling: 1 kabocha (or ½ a squash) olive oil, for roasting 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp salt 1 tsp sugar 3 garlic cloves
1 For the dough, mix the flour, sugar, salt, yeast and oil together in a bowl. Slowly pour in the water while stirring with a spoon (use a dough hook if you are using a mixer) until all the liquid is incorporated. Knead either by hand for 10-15 minutes, or for 5 minutes on a high-ish setting in a mixer. The final dough should be smooth and slightly springy, and the pumpkin seed oil will have given it a lovely light green colour. 2 Put the dough in an oiled bowl and cover with clingfilm. Leave to rise for an hour, or until doubled in size. 3 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 5. 4 Chop the kabocha or squash into bite-sized pieces, then dress in the olive oil, soy sauce, salt and sugar. Put into a roasting tray along with the garlic (skin still on – we are just infusing the flavour) and roast for 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin flesh is soft and sweet. Once cooked, season to taste and set aside to cool. 5 Cut 14 4x4cm squares out of baking parchment. 6 When the dough has risen, divide it into 35g portions, making sure to cut it with a blade rather than pull it apart. On a dusted work surface, flatten each portion to a circle about 3mm thick. Put a 1 heaped tbsp of the filling into the centre of each circle. 7 Take a corner of the dough and start pinching it up, concertina style, around the filling until the dumpling closes. Arrange each dumpling on a piece of parchment and let them rest for 20 minutes. 8 Bring some water to the boil on the hob for the bamboo steamers (if you donʼt have bamboo steamers, then regular ones will do just fine). Place the dumplings in the steamers, making sure to leave enough space between them for them to grow as they cook. Brush the tops with a little bit of water before arranging three pumpkin seeds on each bun. 9 Place the steamers over the water and steam the dumplings over a rolling boil for 10 minutes, or until the dough finally takes on a silky shine.
Clem’s next yoga and food event in Bristol is on 11 August at The Forge; yogabrunchclub.com
tsukemono.co.uk
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Your OHH Pub’s Bespoke Events! Keep an eye out for our Pub’s bespoke events! The last Wednesday of every month will see all OHH Pubs simultaneously host their own Event day or evening. Stay updated on our website and why not choose the monthly event that suits your mood.
OHH Brunch Social Just £17.50 per person for 90 minutes of Bottomless Brunch with unlimited tea or coffee to accompany. Line the stomach with pastries on arrival and choose from an array of Breakfast and Brunch dishes to continue. Reservations only. Why not Fizz up the experience and enjoy 40% off a glass of Mimosa or Prosecco. Visit any OHH Pub on the first Saturday of every month. Reservations from 9.00am to 10.30am.
YOUR HOME, YOUR TABLE, YOUR EVENING. A unique restaurant experience based in the South West of the UK. Bringing the restaurant ambience to the comfort of your home.
Coffee & Cake Social Enjoy a mug of tea or freshly ground coffee with a slab of homemade cake for just £3.50. Available at any OHH Pub weekdays until 5pm
Tuesday night is Steak night Enjoy a mouth watering steak and homemade chips for just £10. Wash it all down with a fine bottle of House red wine for just £12.
Organic and locally sourced menus. WE ARE OFFERING
25% OFF FOR FIRST TIME CUSTOMERS THIS SUMMER
Served every Tuesday at all OHH Pubs 5pm - 9.30pm
Bookings must be placed before 31st August 2018. Valid for dates in July, August and September 2018.
Fizz Thursdays
For more info and to book with us, find us at our website.
Come and relax with a glass or bottle of Prosecco. 40% off Prosecco all day and evening every Thursday. Available at all OHH Pubs every Thursday throughout the day, from lunch to dinner.
Come and visit our pubs or take a look at www.ohhpubs.co.uk
07845164846 / sales@hearthdining.com www.hearthdining.com f a x hearthdining
K I T C H E N
A R M O U R Y
The Want List
WE’RE FEELING TROPICAL THIS MONTH WITH LOTS OF FUN, FLAMINGO-INSPIRED KITCHENWARE 1
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1. Flamingo Food Picks £5.50 Brighten up a party with these paper flamingos, great for bringing colour and fun to your summer feast. From Graham and Green in Bath. grahamandgreen.co.uk
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2. Flamingo Bowl £5.50 Not all mornings are grey, especially when your breakfast of choice comes in this bold bowl. Find it at Pink Lemons in Bristol. pinklemons.boutique 3. Tea For One Set £45 This quirky teapot and cup is made from bone china, and conceived by tableware designer Yvonne Ellen. Get yours from Vinegar Hill. vinegarhill.co.uk
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4. Flamingo Egg Cup £20.99 By Bristol-based ceramic designer Hannah Turner, this cute, kitsch egg cup is carefully handmade. Get it from Hannah’s website. hannahturner.co.uk 5. Flamingo Salt and Pepper Shaker Set £14 We’re loving this adorable soft-pink shaker set; it’s a fun way to bring colour to the dinner table. Available online from designer Lisa Angel. lisaangel.co.uk
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Riverstation sits majestically on the harbourside as it has done for the last 20 years. Our iconic building boasts one of the best sunshine locations in Bristol and offers al fresco dining in abundance. You can dock on the pontoon from the ferry and enjoy the whole day in this wonderful setting.
FIRST HAWAIIAN POKE SHOP IN BRISTOL
The newly refitted restaurant offers fantastic views across the water and delivers monthly rotating seasonal menus. Balcony seating also allows you to leisurely watch life go by.
IF YOU LOVE SUSHI YOU'LL LOVE POKE Every bowl is handcrafted to order with the freshest fish and seafoods, plus organic vegetables and home made sauces.
The up-beat ground floor hosts a large sunshine terrace so you can while away a summer’s night with cocktails, or enjoy a bottle from our extensive wine selection. We proudly support local Bristol breweries, as well as offering our flagship Young’s ales on tap. Be sure not to miss out on our great Summer events hosted in proper Bristol fashion. Follow our social networks for updates.
We are taking bookings over the Summer months for our Cruise, Drink & Dine Supper Clubs and special rum events. Bookings and info at www.riverstation.co.uk/whats-on
OPENING TIMES
MON - FRI: 12PM - 3PM / 5:30PM - 9:30PM SATURDAY: 12PM - 9:30PM SUNDAY: CLOSED
0117 929 0735 bonefishpoke.co.uk 29 St Stephens Street, Bristol, BS1 1JX info@bonefishpoke.co.uk a bonefishpoke
The Grove, Bristol BS1 4RB; 0117 914 4434 riverstation@youngs.co.uk www.riverstation.co.uk
f riverstation.bs1 a riverstation_ x riverstation.bristol
EAT LOCAL THIS SUMMER LOCAL BREADS, CHEESES, ANTIPASTI, VEG AND MUCH MORE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR
ORDER NOW ON FRESH-RANGE.COM t @freshrange
f freshrangeUK
" 0117 332 2813
BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN CRAFT BEER & COCKTAILS On the riverside, Taunton 01823 252466 | info@eatthebird.co.uk x eatthebird a tw_eatthebird
SMOKE • BBQ • GRILL CUSTOM MADE, BUILT TO ORDER, VERSATILE COOKING BEASTS. To find out more information or to place an order visit bristoldrumsmokers.co.uk or call on 07970325352
E AVAILABL TE A IV R FOR P HIRE
TRADITIONAL STYLE CAFE/GASTROPUB The Tollgate is a tearoom and kitchen situated on the A46, three miles south of junction 18 on the M4, and six miles north of Bath. The Tollgate is in an elevated position with panoramic views across Bristol, the Severn and to the Welsh Hills.
COSY TEAROOM | STUNNING SCENERY VICTORIAN CONSERVATORY | GARDENS We serve traditional food all day, opening at 9am for breakfast, followed by lunch and afternoon tea. All of our food is made on the premises from locally sourced ingredients. THE TOLLGATE, DYRHAM, NR. BATH, SN14 8LF 01225 891585 | www.thetollgate.co f x thetollgatedyrham a tollgatedyrham
OPEN 9AM TO 5PM 7 DAYS A WEEK
MAINs
TOP CULINARY CAUSES, INSIDER KNOWLEDGE AND FOOD PIONEERs
HIGHLIGHTS
FAMILY VALUES
FOODIE ACTIVITIES AND TOP GRUB TO ENJOY WITH THE KIDS OVER THE SUMMER HOLS PAGE 61
SMASH SPRITZ
KATE HAWKINGS REVEALS WHY WE ALL NEED TO BE RAIDING GRANNY 'S DRINKS CABINET PAGE 66
PLUS!
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OF KATE'S FAVOURITE APERITIFS IN BRISTOL
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F ROM APERITIF BY K AT E HAW K I NG S ( QUA D RI L L E £ 1 6. 99 ); PHOTO BY S A R A H H OGA N
All aboard the aperitif train; the trend for these sips is ever-growing. Try knocking up one of these Suze Negronis at home, why donʼt cha?
KID ROCK SCHOOL IS (SO VERY NEARLY) OUT FOR SUMMER. WANT TO MAKE THE BREAK ONE TO REMEMBER? WE RECKON THESE TOP LOCAL FOODIE OUTINGS ARE A GREAT PLACE TO START…
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GRAB A FREE MEAL AT BAMBALAN
This colourful city centre gaff, with its big rooftop terrace, promises a feed on the house for little ones on weekdays. You’ll get a free child’s meal per adult paying for a main course, between noon and 5pm, with the wee mites’ options including the likes of meatballs in tomato sauce, and pizza. The restaurant will also be hosting kids’ activities during the holidays, including storytelling and arts and crafts sessions – so keep your eye on their website for details. bambalan.co.uk
COOL DOWN AT BOCABAR
Getting hot outside? Seek out some shade with the bairns at this relaxed, child-friendly bar and restaurant; it’s giving away a free ice cream with every kid’s pizza throughout the summer break. The new children’s menu, which launches in July, includes brunch, pizzas, healthy lunches, and deli dishes. While they’re tucking in or lolling around
on the comfy sofas, you can get busy with a cold and refreshing West Country brew, perhaps, or a crisp, local craft gin and tonic – with plenty of ice, of course. bocabar.co.uk
MEET GROMIT AT BOSTON TEA PARTY ON GLOUCESTER ROAD
This Gloucester Road café will be a rather important stop on the new Grand Appeal trail, as it’s home to a Gromit designed by The Great British Bake Off’s Bristolian illustrator, Tom Hovey, until September. And (perfect timing) the brand new kids’ menu will be launching on 19 July, too. So go tick this Gromit off your list, grab a bit of lunch, and maybe even help support the Grand Appeal while you’re there. bostonteaparty.co.uk
MEET ROYALTY AT THE HARBOUR HOTEL
This handsome bank-turned-hotel in Bristol is hosting special family-friendly
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afternoon teas over the summer, which will be attended by beautiful princesses and cool superheroes for the children to meet. These ‘Happily Ever After... Noon Tea’ sessions will take place on selected dates in July, August and September, and can be booked online. Starting at £5.95 per child, the menu includes unlimited mini sarnies and cakes. harbourhotels.co.uk
GET COMPETITIVE AT CHANCE AND COUNTERS
This board game café is a great place to take cover during the hols – either to catch a break from the sun, or escape the inevitable summer showers. A flat rate of £5 per person will get you four hours of fun here; there are over 600 games on offer, plenty of which are designed for families, and their gurus are always on hand to help you learn the rules. There’s plenty of fresh, local food on the go, too – nibbles, small plates to share and more hearty mains, all designed to sustain you while you play. chanceandcounters.com
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Boston Tea Party (above) on Gloucester Road will be appearing on the new Gromit Unleashed trail, while Cook It (left) has plenty of workshops for both older and younger children
KEEP BUDDING CHEFS BUSY AT COOKING IT CLASSES
Catering for toddlers and teenagers, and teaching everything from foodie science to essential kitchen skills, the children’s cookery courses here have all bases covered. And there are plenty of them happening throughout the holidays, including Mexican cookery, sushi classes and bakery sessions, starting at about £27 and ranging from 90 minutes to half a day in length. Small class sizes mean that everyone gets the attention they need to come away with a set of new culinary skills. cookingit.co.uk
TEST OUT THE NEW PLAYHOUSE AT THE GLOUCESTER OLD SPOT
This food pub is more than welcoming to little ones, and has actually just had a brand new playhouse built for ’em to climb into and mess about in, out in its large garden. If the weather doesn’t look too good for
alfresco activities though, there’s plenty to read and get colouring with inside. In terms of food, there’s a children’s breakfast menu, including the mini Old Spot veggie breakfast, with mushroom, sweet corn fritter, scrambled egg, beans and white toast – as well as main courses. theoldspotbristol.co.uk
BAKE TOGETHER WITH THE PROS AT HOBBS HOUSE
This long-established bakery runs some belting courses, and there are some special family friendly ones taking place at its Chipping Sodbury school over the summer break, too. They’re designed for older kids (between 13 and 15) to attend with parents or adults; choose either the bread or pastry class, and you’ll get to spend the morning together learning recipes and methods that you can try out yourselves back at home, then come away with your creations as well as a handy set of recipes. hobbshousebakery.co.uk
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MAKE YOUR OWN SCHMORES AT MRS POTTS CHOCOLATE HOUSE
A new offering at Mrs Potts, the Schmores board comes with biscuits, chocolate and giant marshmallow to toast over the cute mini burners. (We’ve had a go, and can confirm they’re both delish and delightfully messy.) While the kids are occupied with that, chill out with a cuppa and slice of the salted caramel carrot cake, maybe. The boards are £6.90 per person, and the necessary napkins – happily – are free! mrspottschocolatehouse.co.uk
GO BEHIND THE SCENES AT NEWTON FARM FOODS This family friendly farm shop and café has a great kids’ menu, and plenty of open space for the little ones to play in, as well as a climbing frame and blackboards. There are kiddies’ yoga classes in the barn on Monday and Thursday mornings, too. Its Open Farm Day is especially exciting, though; on
K I D S
Check out a local farm over the holidays: Newton Farm Foods (below) has an open day in August, and Windmill Hill City Farm (right) is running activity mornings for the little ones
27 August, for one day only, the farm gates will be opened to the public, and guests will be able to take tractor tours, get stuck in with activities, and learn heaps about where our food comes from. There will, of course, be plenty of grub on offer throughout the day, too. newtonfarmfoods.co.uk
CHILL OUT AT RYE BAKERY
This super-family friendly bakery and café in Frome has lots going on throughout the summer – like the children’s ukulele class out in the garden – giving parents the chance to chill while the kids get entertained. Children are not only catered for in terms of play, but also food – the kids’ platter of cheese or ham sandwich on spelt roll with fruit, a date and nut ball, hummus and crudités, for instance, is all homemade, and might even have the little ’uns trying something new. facebook.com/ryebakeryfrome
LET KIDS BE KIDS AT TEMPLE STREET CANTEEN This Keynsham café and deli has a dedicated child-friendly area where kids are free to play as they please, making noise and mess and generally letting their hair down without you having to worry about them disturbing other punters. They can dive into the chest of toys, roll around on play mats, or sit and catch up on their colouring in. Instead of creating a separate kids’ menu, these guys let the little ones eat like big ones, and offer all the colourful, homemade food on the full menu in smaller portions. There are even babyccinos on the go. facebook.com/templestreetcanteen
GET WILD AT WINDMILL HILL CITY FARM
This popular South Bristol farm is running its Wild Outdoors Club on selected dates throughout August. For kids between the ages of six and nine, activities include cooking in the cob oven or over a campfire.
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Each session is a tenner, and can be booked online. But if you can’t make those dates, don’t fear; the farm is open every day and is a great outing for young ’uns, with animals and veg patches to explore, and a lovely family friendly food offering in its newly revamped, Crumbs Award-winning café. windmillhillcityfarm.org.uk
GET ACTIVE AT WOOLLEY GRANGE HOTEL
Summer at this family focused hotel is always great – whether you’re a resident or not. There are great kids’ menus (including a list of kids’ mocktails), so you can all enjoy lunch or afternoon tea alfresco, before getting stuck into a game of croquet or badminton, navigating the grass maze, or exploring the walled garden to find the White Witch of Woolley’s house. There are also swings, playhouses and a Woolley Sheep trail to complete. We feel a nap coming on, after all that... woolleygrangehotel.co.uk
The
cakery Artisan Coffee Custom made cakes Fresh bread
Gluten free, dairy free and vegan options available 21 Claverton buildings, Bath BA2 4LD tel 07891 211852 email thecakery-@hotmail.com b The Cakery @TheCakeryBath thecakerybath www.thecakerybath.co.uk
KATE HAWKINGS
JESSICA CARTER TALKS TO THIS NATIONALLY CELEBRATED DRINKS GURU ABOUT THE RISE OF LOWALCOHOL DRINKS, WHY RETRO SIPS ARE MAKING A COMEBACK, AND WHICH LOCAL JOINTS SHE HEADS TO FOR THAT PERFECT APERITIF...
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peritifs occupy a particular niche in drinking land, writes Kate Hawkings in her timely and engaging new book, Aperitif . Cocktails are all well and good in the drinker’s repertoire, but the aperitif suggests something lighter, something to tickle one’s fancy without wrestling one’s taste buds and sobriety into submission. There’s a trend towards drinking lighter alcohol and less of it, and the aperitif vibe fits this bill perfectly. Released in June, this guide to the culture, rituals and drinks that govern the world of the aperitif has seen Kate add ‘author’ to her index of occupations, including restaurateur, columnist and wine consultant. Safe to say, then, that the nine-to-five life has pretty much entirely evaded her: instead of under the fluorescent strip lights of an office, you’ll more likely see her beneath
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FIRST OF THE SUMMER WINE This is from one of my favourite bars in the world, Hausbar in Bristol, says Kate, where German-born Aurelius Braunbarth brought Berlin basement bar chic to the fortunate few and which has never been bettered, in Bristol at least. Gone but very much not forgotten, in 12 years of glorious rule Auri and his much-feted protégées at Hausbar made me so many perfect drinks I’d never attempt to recreate at home, such is the skill and attention to critical detail with which they were made. This one, First of the Summer Wine, is easy to knock up at home; “It’s just a posh G&T,” says Auri, with characteristic cool. Choose whatever gin you like, bearing in mind you don’t want to overpower the gorgeous, delicate fruitiness of the port. SERVES 4 50ml gin 20ml tawny port 2 tsp lemon juice tonic water mint leaves, to garnish thyme, to garnish orange slice, to garnish Take a highball glass, or something similar, load it with ice and sling in the gin. Pour over the port and the lemon juice, give it a stir then top up with tonic. Go large on the garnish – some mint leaves, a sprig of thyme and a generous slice of orange. S A R A H H OGA N
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Serving you proper pub food, with fresh veg and freerange meat from local butchers. Everything is made from scratch in the kitchen by our team of immensely talented chefs, with lovely new starters and desserts made especially for our Sunday Roast Menu.
STAY AT THE WELLINGTON
The Wellington’s ten boutique hotel style, ensuite bedrooms are stylish and inviting, blending character with contemporary design. Each guest room comes with full amenities including contemporary ensuite bathroom with shower, television, tea and coffee making facilities and WIFI. The next morning pop downstairs for your Full English Breakfast. We also offer an extensive menu of hot and cold options, fresh juices and hot drinks. For bookings and enquiries call 0117 9513022
The Wellington Hotel, Gloucester Road, Horfield Bristol, BS7 8UR. Tel: 0117 9513022 Visit us online: www.thewellingtonbristol.co.uk/food
G R I L L E D
the dim wall lamps of bars, tasting wines and building menus; her commute is to a different destination each day – often not in Bristol or, indeed, the UK; and instead of tied to a desk surrounded by filing cabinets, you’ve got a better chance of finding her with a laptop in small-plate restaurant Bellita, which she co-owns. Good food and drink has always permeated Kate’s life, and the moment she first dipped her toe in the hospitality pool, she knew where she wanted to be. “I come from a family who ate and drank well,” she tells us. “And I ended up waitressing in London when I was a student – about 400 years ago! I came back to Bristol in 1989 and worked at the (in)famous Rocinantes tapas bar on Whiteladies Road. I loved the whole world of restaurants; it was such good fun and such a pleasure to make people happy serving great food and drink. I was hooked.” Still in the business of eliciting smiles through moodenhancing refreshments – albeit not by way of the front of house profession any more – Kate works with restaurants as a wine consultant, to make sure their drinks are punching as high as their food. Safe to say, then, she knows her way around a wine list, and explains why a great one is so challenging to create. “It should be short, but long enough to give real choice; interesting, but not scary; affordably priced, but not cheap and nasty,” she says. “It’s a real balancing act.” Of course, keeping her finger on the pulse of new trends and growing markets in the wine world is all part of the job, so we couldn’t resist asking what we should be keeping our beady eyes on right now. “Natural wines are continuing to pique the interest, and not just among hipsters. It’s becoming increasingly difficult to source quality wines at affordable prices from Europe – just one consequence of the catastrophe that is Brexit – so look out for wines from countries such as Romania, Hungary and Bulgaria, where production costs are low and quality is rapidly improving.” Indeed, though, it ain’t all about the vino. As the cocktail scene improves, craft spirits continue to multiply and people become more experimental, other thirst-quenchers are coming into play at restaurants – and at home. “I think aperitifs are where the action is happening – think of the rise of vermouths and the like. They’re drinks to begin with, to kick off a meal, and are really best appreciated alone, or perhaps with a crisp or a twiglet. “[Aperitifs] became associated with 1970s naffness as wine and beer became more popular, and ended up gathering dust at the back of the cupboard. Although they are often used in cocktails, it’s only recently that people are starting to appreciate them for what they KATE’S LOCAL HOT SPOTS are in themselves. FOR AN APERITIF “The trend for ‘drink less, “I’m proud of the vermouth drink better’ is also a factor in collection we’ve built up their growing popularity, at Bellita; sherry is always I think – they contain good at Bravas; and around half the alcohol of Wallfish Bistro makes a spirits. Although, it could be mean Campari Spritz.” argued that you’d generally drink around twice as much vermouth as, say, a gin – so they’re not as pure as they seem! “Bartenders also tend to lead trends in drinking, and many of those I know are really into vermouths now – not only in cocktails, but as standalone drinks. “Could it be that we are finally moving on from gin? Having said that, a gin and tonic is quite definitely an aperitif.”
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Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of the Aperitif by Kate Hawkings (Quadrille, £16.99); photography by Sarah Hogan
So aperitifs – straight up or mixed into classic pre-dinner concoctions like Spritzs and Negronis – have officially been promoted from the dark, dusty back row of the drinks cabinet. And with them have emerged their fascinating stories and customs, too. Hence, this handsome new hardback. “I wanted to open people’s eyes to the concept of the aperitif, as something to mark the end of the day and to enjoy before eating,” Kate says. “A cocktail may be an aperitif, but not all aperitifs are cocktails. If I want a good cocktail I go out to a good bar; aperitifs, for me, are more about simple things you can knock up at home. “It seems so very civilised as a ritual. The drinks are so delicious, and fortified things like vermouths last for ages once they’re open.” Although the book of course includes recipes, it’s largely about the context of the aperitif – think trends, history, tradition and ingredients – and covers everything from the kind of glass to drink from to the way the custom came about in the first place. “[I researched] loads and loads. I love a bit of history to put things in perspective, and so many of these drinks have great stories.” The most surprising thing Kate learned during said research? “That James Dyson owns more land in England than the queen, and is the biggest potato farmer in Europe. It came up when I was researching vodka.” Aperitifs are huge on mainland Europe. And, although you won’t necessarily find British work-finishers rushing to their local bar for a 6pm Aperol Spritz, we do have our own version of the custom here. It’s just called “going down the pub,” Kate points out. “We’ve still got a way to go, but things are changing.”
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AFTERS
FÉS NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CA FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM
HIGHLIGHT
GIVE A CL
UP! BIGGING KO HAS A
CARGO'S WOKY LING NEW SUPER-SIZED SIB PAGE 72
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FAST FOOD W UCK OF ETHICS, AT ITH A SIDE HAPP IN BRISTOL Y BIRD PAGE 74
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CHOACFTERNOON FEEDLATE O AN TTS CHOTCO BE O P S R M AT OVES HOUSE PREET ESCAPE A SW PAGE 81
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KI RS T I E YO UNG
Woky Ko’s fr esh faced new ve nue on Queens Road is all ab out understated cool
(NEW HOTSPOTS)
WOKY KO: KAUTO SERVING ASIAN FOOD WITH A DISTINCT WHIFF OF BRISTOLIAN CHARACTER, THIS NEW RESTAURANT IS MODERN, FUN AND SERVES UP SOME SERIOUS UMAMI BOMBS, RECKONS JESSICA CARTER P h o to s by K I R S T I E YO U N G
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say Chinese food, you (probs) say takeaway. Tubs of chow mein, bubbly prawn crackers in translucent white plastic, and polystyrene pots of sweet and sour sauce are the comforting stuff of rainy Friday nights in. But that’s a world away from what Larkin Cen is doing in his Bristol restaurants, which now total two after the opening of this Queens Road site in May. Originally from Cardiff, Larkin moved to Bristol in 2010, and dropped the mic on his career as a solicitor to cook professionally after making it to the finals of MasterChef 2013. Almost two years ago, he opened his first Bristol restaurant, Woky Ko: Cargo, which is housed in a shipping container and focuses on Asian street food.
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A F T E R S
Woky Ko: Kauto is a much larger, two-floor restaurant in Clifton. Its bigger kitchen means that Larkin has been able to flex his culinary muscles and build on the offering of the Cargo sibling. So, while you’ll see some familiar dishes – think edamame spring rolls, crispy duck rice noodles and those baos – there’s heaps of new stuff too, including bowls of umami-laced broths, unfamiliar small plates and different sharing boards. It might be sleek and modern, but the carefully thought out décor has a soft, understated edge, with touches of light wood and soft greys. There’s seating at the kitchen, on bar-height chairs, so punters can watch their food prepped by the cool, calm team, as they get going with a glass of sake. Well, that’s what we did when we went to check out the new digs, anyway. The salt and pepper squid (£6.45) was one of the best versions I’ve had: the dry, crisp batter punchy with seasoning, and the freshtasting meat inside cooked just so. The crispy duck bao (£3.95) saw tender slices of meat cosy up with cucumber and Peking sauce inside a soft, pump steamed bun, and, to conclude our first course (yes, this was all just the first course – don’t look at me like that), was the onglet steak (£8.95) that I’d been tipped off about that day. Served confidently rare, the deep red cut – known for its strong beefy flavour – sat in slices in a slightly fiery black bean jus that was balanced with dollops of soft, creamy cauli purée. The steak had been marinated in apple juice, soy, mirin and sake, and had a lovely fine crust with subtle char. I may have not looked great eating it – the slices were thick and had to go into my gob whole (’cause chopsticks), and although nicely textured required a long, conversation-halting chew – but I didn’t much care. Next we slurped on a steaming bowl of tom yum soup (£13.95). The orange broth, containing fat prawns and delicate clams, was fiery and aromatic with chilli and lemongrass. It’ll be my feed of choice next time I feel a cold coming on. Cheung fun (£10.95) is one of three vegan options on the menu. Plump rolls of rice noodle were gently toasted and covered in a wonderfully savoury and silky Sichuan sauce, along with slices of chestnut mushroom, asparagus and mature, mellow spring onion. A kind of Chinese version of gnocchi, as the chef described it. Talking to us as we ate and he worked, Larkin made his feelings clear about the half Korean-fried chicken sharing plate (£18.95), so we thought we’d best give it a whirl (didn’t need much convincing, to be fair). Half a chicken went into the fryer with a seasoned cornstarch coating, meaning it emerged with moreishy crisp, wellflavoured skin, and was chopped into manageable parts to show off the white flesh that glistened with juiciness. The meat was as tender as that picture paints it to be, and was served with thin, floury pancakes, nicely spiced Gochujang and pokey kimchi, finely chopped for wrapping up in those pancakes. As far as I’m concerned, the ice cream bao dessert (£4.25) is non-negotiable on every visit to Woky Ko. We’re talking coconut ice cream, topped with a light and sticky salted caramel sauce and sandwiched in a still-warm, deep-fried bun. I’ll just leave that here for you... Kauto is a cool, relaxed and very welcome new kid on the Bristol block, doing Asian food with fun, contemporary character. Go with mates to make the most of the cocktails (designed by Little Victories), and of the varied food. Sharing is caring here, team. Woky Ko: Kauto, 7-9 Queens Road, Bristol BS8 1QE; wokyko.com
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A F T E R S
( T O P TA K E A W AY S )
HAPPY BIRD ETHICAL, SPEEDY AND DELICIOUS IS WHAT THIS AMBITIOUS FRIED CHICKEN SHOP IS AIMING FOR, FINDS JESSICA CARTER
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ast food is a compromise, right? Whether we’re getting it for speed, affordability or its hangovercuring abilities, we do so with the knowledge that it ain’t going to adhere to the ideal standards of ethics and nutrition. Happy Bird, which opened in January this year, sets out to eliminate as much of that compromise as possible. So all the meat it serves comes from one, specially selected farmer who raises properly free range, slow-grown birds (hence the larger-thanusual cuts). And everything – sauces included – is made from scratch using straight up, additive-free ingredients. Seems ambitious, right? Indeed, the launch stirred much discussion about prices tags, and whether this kind of chicken is even any good for burgers. Having listened to would-be punters, though, the team have adjusted their prices, tweaked the menu format and generally tightened things up, it seems. The bright diner-style restaurant is clean and modern, making eating in an attractive option, regardless of delivery being the big business here. We sat down with a chicken-salted caramel milkshake to have a look through the menu. Chicken salt (made from the skin) is used to season the fries too, and gave my milkshake a savoury edge that made it moreish and subtly distinctive from the usual salted-C flavour. To eat, burgers (from £6.50) come made of breast or thigh that’s fried or grilled. The legs, wings and any remaining cuts can be found in the selection of wraps (£5.50), a burrito (£7) and sides. Little is wasted from each bird, then.
The grilled chicken tenders (£4.50 for three, £7.50 for four) had just the right amount of char, subtle enough to let the flavour of the meat still dominate, and the house glazed wings (£7.50 for six) were sweet, sticky and succulent. The Happy K-Pop burger (£7.50) saw a fried thigh – precisely cooked to keep it plump and juicy – sit inside a soft, fresh bun with lettuce, mayo, onion and an Asian-style sauce made with fermented soy bean, chilli and sesame. The Happy Frango burger (£8) comprised a fried breast with a smoky pepper sauce, and the same trimmings. The flesh was pearly white, dense, and super soft (in fact, when we cut the burgers in half the table knife slid though ’em with zero effort), almost seeming like a different meat entirely to what you get in regular fast food chains. Sides of fries (£2) and sweet potato wedges (£3) rounded off a hefty lunch. Nothing was greasy or felt too heavy, and while prices are, of course, higher than at less ethically focused outlets, the chicken was plump, succulent and well-portioned – hence really filling. (If you’re being virtuous but somehow end up here, there are grilled options, and sides of rice and salad. But they’re hardly as tempting, right?) There may still be some honing to do (choosing from a list of nine different sauces is enough to make my indecisive brain panic, for instance), but Happy Bird has come a long way in a short space of time. Hit it up for quality fast food, made with great meat and solid ethics. Happy Bird, Clifton Down Shopping Centre, Whiteladies Road, Bristol BS8 2NN; 0117 973 7300; happy-bird.com
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CAFE KITCHEN Welcome to our award-winning café - providing young people with special needs a unique opportunity to gain work experience and training. We are working with the local community and employers to develop work experience opportunities after students have worked in 3 Cafe Kitchen.
Join us for Afternoon Tea
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Pot of Everyday Clipper Tea • Finger Sandwiches Pate on our Homemade Toast • Raspberry Brownie Mini Cheese Scone with Cream Cheese & Homemade Chutney Mini Plain Scone with Tiptree Strawberry Jam & Clotted Cream Lemon & Seasonal Fruit Cupcake with Lemon Curd Mascarpone Icing Please be aware that all food is prepared in a kitchen where allergens are present, for any allergen enquiries please ask a member of staff. The school and café has a NUT FREE POLICY. Food is locally sourced and seasonal where possible.
Open Monday to Friday 8am–4pm | Saturday 8am–12pm Available for private hire. Please call 01225 830377 or email amelia.hartley@threeways.co.uk Located @ 180 Frome Road, Odd Down, BA2 5RF
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A F T E R S
( S U P E R S PA N I S H J O I N T S )
OLÉ BAR AND RESTAURANT JESSICA CARTER CHECKS OUT THE NEW YOUNGER SISTER OF ONE OF BATH’S FAVOURITE INDIE RESTAURANTS…
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he team at Bath’s Olé Tapas have been onto a good thing for four years now. Back in 2015 we went to check it out so we could report back to you lovely lot (as we’re sure you’ll remember – right?), and it came up trumps. It still crops up regularly in conversations with visitors to the city, looking for somewhere good to eat, too. Seeing as the team, then, clearly have a model that works – and food that people love – it was pretty brave to decide that, for their second venue, they’d depart from the tried and tested, and do something different. Thing is, though, that since this second site opened in the spring – serving pintxos and tapas in the bar area, and a new, full a la carte in the restaurant – it’s found itself morphing into its older, smaller sibling quite a bit. People see that familiar Olé sign, and so go inside wanting tapas, it seems. And whether you see that as flattering or frustrating, you kind of have to give people what they want. That’s not to say that this Saw Close restaurant – in the former Gascoyne Place site – is simply a plan B for people who can’t get a seat at the tiny John Street one (which is literally just around the corner), though; it remains distinct in its style and character.
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During the day, the ground-floor dining room is bright and airy, with large sash windows at the front and gleaming white walls. Tapas-themed cartoons are painted over the back wall too, giving it a fun, modern look. Meanwhile, out the other side of the bar, is a more rustic-feeling, wood-clad room, with more tables as well as some taller, bar-style seating. Although now made up almost solely of tapas, the bill of fare here is not a carbon copy of the one around the corner. The front of the A4 menu is filled with nibbles (olives, almonds et al), cheeses, and cured meats (mainly on sharing boards), giving plenty of options for snacks to share over a glass or three of wine. Flip the menu over, though, and there you have traditional Spanish small plates, as well as paella to share. There’s a well-judged balance of classics – patatas bravas, tortilla, cooked chorizo – and more varied, seasonal options. The croqueta (£3.50), golden on the outside and just as gooey, fluffy and comforting within as you could hope, had a béchamel-rich filling, studded with Iberian ham. As the suckling pig’s ear wasn’t around (things will be off the menu when they can’t be sourced or have run out – it’s not like you can just pop down the shop for most of these ingredients, after all), we chose the slow-roast pork ribs (£5.95). These were pretty sizeable, and the meat very willingly parted ways with the bone. They came with coarsely textured, boldly seasoned mash – which we actually loved for its lumps. The Argentinian wild tiger prawns (£9.95) were almost intimidatingly large (almost), and came handsomely charred from the charcoal grill, the fire having seasoned the soft, plump meat with gentle smokiness. The slow-cooked Galician-style octopus (£9.95), meanwhile, saw hunks of tender meat sitting atop cylinders of potato in a red pepper sauce. The salmorejo (£3.95, or £5.95 with ham and boiled egg) was cool and refreshing. A purée that’s not a million miles away from gazpacho, it was punchy with garlic and light and silky in texture; we clashed spoons as we greedily scooped it from the bowl. Deep-fried aubergine slices (£4.75) formed another generously portioned plate, the large discs coated in a thin, golden batter and drizzled with sugar cane honey for a hit of sweetness. To end was a nicely crusted crema Catalana (£4.95), and a velvety chocolate mousse (£4.95), peppered with tiny spheres of bitter choc popping candy to offset the sweetness. This is food that tastes of holidays; it’s the kind of stuff served in restaurants that you wander into when you get peckish on your
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evening stroll along the beach. And the Mediterranean vibes were helped along by the summer sun pouring in through those windows. Sure, some of the plates are more pricey than others, but you don’t have to spend a small fortune for a good feed. There’s also a lunch and pre-theatre offer that runs ’til 6pm, promising a meal for £9.95 or £14.95, and the reasonably priced house wine – we can confirm, after rigorously testing – is really decent. There are plenty of reasons to check out this new indie restaurant – and the Spanish diners who were clearing their plates with smiles on their faces behind us would agree, we reckon. Olé Bar and Restaurant, 1 Saw Close, Bath BA1 1EY; 01225 789322; olerestaurant.co.uk
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The Malago
Situated in the renowned Spike Island, we are the sister café to the much loved Folk House Café and offer a wonderful setting for everyone. 133 Cumberland Road Bristol BS1 6UX spikeislandcafe.co.uk 0117 954 4030
LOCAL, ORGANIC, SUSTAINABLE, ETHICAL, DELICIOUS. MON - SAT: BRUNCH/LUNCH: 9AM - 3PM • DINNER: 5.30PM - 9.30PM SUNDAY: BRUNCH/LUNCH: 9AM - 12PM • ROASTS: 12:30PM - 7PM
www.themalago.club • eatout@themalago.club 220 North Street, Southville, BS3 1JD • 0117 963 9044
We also cater for evening events, wedding receptions, birthday parties, supper clubs. Call now for more information. 40a Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5JG folkhousecafe.co.uk 0117 908 5035
We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting. Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome. PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION SPECIALIST SINGLE MALT WHISKIES, PREMIUM RUMS CRAFT WORLD AND LOCAL BEERS, COCKTAIL SPIRITS CUBAN CIGARS, FINE WINES AND CHAMPAGNES PRIVATE & CORPORATE TASTING
Tunley Road, Tunley BA2 0EB • 01761 470408 Email: info@kingwilliaminn.co.uk • f T @kingwilliam84 www.kingwilliaminn.co.uk
7 Terrace Walk, Bath • Tel: 01225 340636 Independent-Spirit-of-Bath @indiespiritbath shop@independentspiritofbath.co.uk
A F T E R S
( D E L I G H T U L D E S S E R T PA R L O U R S )
MRS POTTS CHOCOLATE HOUSE WITH DESSERT BARS BOOMING AS SOCIALISING SANS BOOZE GETS MORE POPULAR, THIS PLACE IS ON TO A GOOD THING, JESSICA CARTER RECKONS
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ot a actually a house made of chocolate, this business is a far more viable concept – a café serving the good stuff in countless guises, to eat and drink. Chocolate bars are popular in Australia, so when owners Michael and Jennifer Potts moved from there to Bristol and realised we were devoid of ’em, they decided to rectify the situation. Now in its first summer in business, Mrs Potts has come up with a new menu for the hottest season. There are plenty of local suppliers on the books here; coffee comes from Wogan, fruity thirst quenchers from Lovely Drinks, ice cream from Marshfield Farm, milk from Bruton Dairy, and much of the choc itself is by Nailsea-based Ooh Chocolata. It’s Jenny who comes up with the menu ideas (with a little help from the couple’s daughter), and gets her hands dirty in the kitchen. Visitors are greeted by a counter displaying several different types of brownies, biscuits and other bakes, including cupcakes and the popular salted caramel carrot cake. There are a decent number of vegan bakes and drinks, too. We took a seat in the newly opened courtyard out the back, and got cracking with a nice cold mocha frappe and toasted marshmallow milkshake (both £4.90). Of course, if this were a colder season we’d probably have got our chilly mitts around one of the hot chocolates which, made simply
from chocolate and milk, include numbers like roasted white chocolate as well as the classics. The white chocolate and strawberry Eaton mess (£6.90) was an impressive looking plate. Soft, light-textured cheesecake with a pleasingly crumbly biscuit base was piled with fresh strawberries, cream, meringue and dollops of coulis. Balancing sweetness with fresh and tart flavours, it had a good mix of textures, too. The chocolate peanut butter sundae (£6.90) involved scoops of vanilla ice cream layered up with hunks of brownie and crowned with a wonderfully chewy, salty slab of peanut brittle, as well as whipped cream, melted choc and peanut fudge sauce. It may not look as big as some would perhaps expect for seven quid, but it’s decadently moreish and easily enough for two – trust me. A more modestly priced brownie ice cream sandwich (£3.50) did just what it said on the tin (er, menu): thin slabs of brownie top and tailed a filling of velvety vanilla ice cream, and came drizzled with melted chocolate. Worth all the napkins it required. Mrs Potts is, of course, a place to head to for a treat (although you can drop in just for a tea or coffee – if you have the kind of steely willpower I can only dream of, that is). But these are honest, homemade treats that, while not pretending to be fit for daily consumption, also don’t hide any added highlyprocessed ingredients, either. If you’re going to do indulgent, then this is the kind of stuff to do it with, surely? Mrs Potts Chocolate House, 20 Park Street, Bristol BS1 5JA; 0117 929 2727; mrspottschocolatehouse.co.uk
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HIDDEN GEM Dough (halfway down The Corridor) is one of our favourite places to go as a team. The pizzas are incredible, and you can choose from a really interesting variety of bases and toppings. ONE TO WATCH Nourish opened in what was The Beaufort on London Road at the end of last year, and is becoming a real hot spot for modern plant-based eating. WITH FRIENDS Yak Yeti Yak is the ideal place to go with mates. Itʼs cosy with a great atmosphere, and serves delicious food thatʼs really reasonably priced. COMFORT FOOD The Raven, for the ultimate comfort food – pie and mash! WITH THE FAMILY Hall and Woodhouse is lovely and spacious, with a recently revamped menu that has a bunch of new vegan and gluten-free options. Itʼs super child-friendly – the kidsʼ menu is great.
L I T T L E
B L A C K
BEST CURRY Definitely Indian Temptation. The food is amazing, the staff are attentive, and the vegan and gluten-free options are really clear.
B O O K
SUZy pUddephatt
SOMETHING SWEET Beyond The Kale offers some unbelievable sweet treats. The banoffee and raw key lime pie are out of this world. They fly out, though, so get there quick! TOP STREET FOOD Chai Walla, every time. Niraj and his mum serve up authentic, family recipes made with love. It’s delicious.
THIS HARVEST CO-OP MEMBER PICKS HER FOOD HANGOUTS WISELY...
PRE-THEATRE FEED Sitting outside at The Oven on a warm evening with a pizza and a beer is ideal before the theatre – itʼs almost like being on holiday.
WINE MERCHANT Wolf Wine in Green Park Station should definitely be your first point of call if youʼre looking for wine. Sam and Angus really know their stuff, and they have an ever-changing selection with loads of natural, vegan and organic varieties.
ALFRESCO FEASTING Weʼd recommend getting your favourite picnic goodies together and heading to The Royal Crescent or Sydney Gardens. Both are really lovely, atmospheric places to soak up some sun – just make sure you take your rubbish with you! harvest-bath.coop
CHEEKY COCKTAIL The Dark Horse is unbelievable for cocktails if you fancy treating yourself – the difficulty is choosing what to have first! QUICK PINT We always pop up to The Bell Inn when we fancy a drink: itʼs nearby, has a great selection of beers and ciders, and is a fellow co-operative! BEST BREW Our go-to for great coffee in Bath is Society Café; The Kingsmead Square one is great for people watching. BREAKFAST Green Rocket is our number one for an epic veggie breakfast; it has loads of vegan and gluten-free options, too. SUNDAY LUNCH Chapel Arts Café started doing Sunday lunch a few months ago, and itʼs insanely good! POSH NOSH Acorn is absolutely mind-blowing for a celebratory meal; the team here are really paving the way for innovative plantbased cooking.
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Quick! Now add this little lot to your contact book... Wolf Wine, Bath BA1 1JB; wolfwine.co.uk The Dark Horse, Bath BA1 2AB; darkhorsebar.co.uk The Bell Inn, Bath BA1 5BW; thebellinnbath.co.uk Society Café, Bath BA1 2AB; society-cafe.com Green Rocket, Bath BA1 1LB; thegreenrocket.co.uk Chapel Arts Café, Bath BA1 1QR; chapelarts.org/cafe Acorn, Bath BA1 1NX; acornrestaurant.co.uk Dough, Bath BA1 5AP; doughpizzarestaurant.co.uk Nourish, Bath BA1 6QB; nourishbath.co.uk Yak Yeti Yak, Bath BA1 1LA; yakyetiyak.co.uk The Raven, Bath BA1 1HE; theravenofbath.co.uk Hall and Woodhouse, Bath BA1 2JW; hall-woodhouse.co.uk Indian Temptation, Bath BA1 5AQ; indiantemptation.com Beyond The Kale, Bath BA1 2DR; facebook.com/beyondthekalebath Chai Walla, Bath BA1 2AN; facebook.com/chaiwallabath The Oven, Bath BA1 1EN; theovenpizzeria.co.uk
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