Crumbs Bath & Bristol - Issue 83

BAT H & BRISTO L

THE HUMBLEs POTATO STAR IN OUR

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83

DECEMBER 2018

NO. 83 DECEMBER 2018

YUMMY YULE ISSUE!

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Tempting TIPPLES to fill clinking glasses

For your most CRACKING CRIMBO EVER!

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Meet the CRUMBS winners WARDS of the A

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Scoffing suckling pig at Michael Holloway’s alt-Xmas lunch

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TABLE OF CONTENTs NO.83 DECEMBER 2018

STARTERS 08 HERO INGREDIENT Spud-u-really-like 12 OPENINGS ETC The hottest news from the local food scene 19 TRIO Chippy dinners CHEF! Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens and cooks 24 Orange wine-braised chicken,

by Gizzi Erskine 27 Smoked salmon and prawns with lime and ginger,

by Mary Cadogan

28 Prep-ahead roast veg,

by Adrian Jenkins 34 Duck fattee, by Freddy Bird ADDITIONAL RECIPES

10 Hake, by Freddy Bird 21 Stir-fried sprouts, by Gaz Oakley 50 Fool-proof roast potatoes,

by Michael Holloway KITCHEN ARMOURY 42 SUPPER CLUB An alternative Christmas feast 54 THE WANT LIST Deck the kitchen out for Crimbo

MAINS 63 WINNING Find out what went down at the Crumbs Awards 76 CHEESE DAYS South West cheeses, and how to serve them AFTERS New and notable restaurants, cafés and bars 90 Bar 44 93 The Swan Inn 96 The Litton PLUS! 98 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Dusty Ape’s Phil Buckley on his favourite local hangouts

STA RT E Rs

INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY SURE, 25 DECEMBER IS A PRETTY BIG DATE IN THE DIARY – BUT THAT’S NOT THE ONLY ONE YOU SHOULD BE CIRCLING WITH RED PEN THIS MONTH...

9 December

13 and 14 December

A WINTER’S FEAST AT THE FIRESIDE SUPPER CLUB

FESTIVE FEAST AT FINZELS

This is the second fireside supper club that The Free Range Chef has hosted at The Farm Camp. Guests will get to cosy up next to the fire in this gorgeous outdoor venue, and enjoy a hearty three-course veggie Sunday lunch under cover, with roasted chestnuts and mulled wine.

Tickets £40 from eventbrite.co.uk. beththefreerangechef.com

Usually only popping up on Friday lunchtimes, the Finzel’s Reach Market will be appearing at The Old Fire Station in Bristol’s city centre for a two-day festive celebration. As well as all the top street food stalls the market is known for, guests can also expect live music and warming mulled wine at the free-to-enter event. facebook.com/feastatfinzels

12 December

16 December

MEZCAL AROUND MEXICO AT CARGO CANTINA

GEORGIAN SUPRA

Eat and drink your way around the various regions of Mexico, with a tasting menu of food and matching mezcals from across the country.

Expect tacos and tostadas with the likes of mezcal-cured trout.

Tickets £35; email or pop into Cargo Cantina to book. cargocantina.co.uk

Inspired by the traditional festive supras in Georgia, this feast will be a very merry way to celebrate the Christmas season. Hosted in central Bristol, this unique event will include traditional Georgian dishes as well as a performance from the city’s Georgian choir. Tickets are £40 and include plenty of food and wine. sundaysupraclub.eventbrite.com

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A L I C E W HI T BY

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POTATOES

POTATOES HAVE REAL CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE – THINK VAN GOGH’S ‘THE POTATO EATERS’ OR MR POTATO HEAD – BUT EVEN MORE SIGNIFICANCE ON OUR PLATES. CARB HEAVEN, HERE WE COME… POTATOES ARE CHEAP, filling, easy to cook, supremely versatile and mildly – though undeniably – tasty; they’re also in some trouble, with stats suggesting sales are down. Blame their carby rep and old fashioned vibe – we rarely think of them as part of a healthy, exciting diet. And that they don’t count as part of your five a day probably doesn’t help…

But wait! Despite recent blips, the potato remains the world’s favourite root veggie – beyond rice and wheat, there’s nothing we grow more – and comes in an endless range of sizes, textures and flavours. Though rarer red, russet or coloured varieties do exist (check out the Purple Peruvian!), most have light brown skins and creamy flesh. Related to tomatoes and aubergines – they’re all members of the nightshade family – these edible South American tubers were first domesticated 10,000 years ago in the Andes mountains, and though wild varieties can be found all the way from Texas to Peru, most modern potatoes are descended from plants developed in the lowlands of south-central Chile, brought to Europe by the Spanish.

Indeed, by the end of the 16th century potatoes were common across Europe, Brits favouring white-fleshed varieties and the Dutch and Spanish the yellower ones (not that colour makes much difference to taste). And it remains Europe where they’re best loved, though that’s slowly changing, with China and India actually growing more of them these days. (Of course, not everyone grows them to eat: there’s also vodka to be made, and in India they use them in medicine, potato skins being a common folk remedy for burns.)

What’s in a name? Well, ‘potato’ comes from the Spanish – ‘patata’ – and originally referred to the sweet potato, the two crops often confused, though they’re not closely related. Indeed, everyone from early American colonists to the 16th-century English herbalist John Gerard rated the sweet potato the ‘common potato’, with today’s regular spud the outsider, referred to as the ‘white’, ‘Virginia’, ‘Irish’ or even – rather rudely – ‘bastard potato.’ The nickname ‘spud’, meanwhile, comes from the small knife-like spade once used to dig holes to plant them, and probably not, it turns out, from the seemingly fictitious ‘British Society for the Prevention of Unwholesome Diet’.

THESE DAYS, THE many varieties of potato come in two broad groups: floury, starch-heavy ones like the Maris Piper, good for baking and fluffy mash, and smooth, waxy varieties like the Charlotte, better boiled or served in salads. Beyond that, there are specialists for all the different ways we cook spuds – boiled (Cara), roast (Pentland Dell), or chips (Sante) – as well as good all-rounders like Romanos. Most potatoes are available all year, though some early spuds – like Jersey Royals – have a limited season, usually April through July. Generally, the waxy varieties come first, then main potato season starts in October and runs till early spring, leaving a tiny gap before Jersey Royals are available again. (Luckily, old potatoes store well enough to bridge the hole.)

When buying, look for firm, well-shaped spuds without blemishes or those mildly toxic green patches, then keep them wrapped in paper in a cool, dark space to stop them developing green shoots; if you do find blemishes, just cut them out. Oh, and speaking of those green bits, every other part of the potato plant – the flowers, the leaves, the fruit – is way more toxic than they are, so avoid everything bar the tuber, unless you like the idea of diarrhoea (or worse).

ARE POTATOES GOOD for you? Well, they’re not bad. They’re mostly water, of course, plus 17 percent carbohydrates (most of it starch), a little bit of protein, virtually no fat, and loads of vitamins B6 and C. The vitamin content does collapse on cooking, but that’s a small price to pay when it makes all that undigestible starch deliciously palatable. As with so many veggies, the real nutritional value is stored in or just under the skin, so it’s best to leave that on where possible. (With new potatoes there’s virtually no skin anyway – just scrub in cold water, then boil and serve with dill.)

You can cook your potatoes all sorts of ways. Generally, baking takes an hour, depending on size, with roasting a little quicker and boiling around 15 minutes. Everyone loves a chip, of course, and a roastie, not to mention mash and baked potatoes. Then there are your basic boiled potatoes, and the fancy hasselback, which is cut nearly (but not entirely) through multiple times before cooking, giving a cross between a spud and a handful of crisps. And let’s not forget the hash brown and the potato cake, the rosti (a sort of potato omelette) and the dauphinoise, potato slices layered with cream and melted cheese…

Different regions have their specialities too, notably Peru – one of the homes of the spud – where fried potato crops up in stir-fries; Italy, where gnocchi is made of spuds; Spain, where spicy patatas bravas is a tapas staple; and Ireland (the classic here is colcannon – mash potato with shredded cabbage or kale and onion). Then there are Slovakian potato dumplings, Canada’s poutine (chips in cheese curds and hot gravy), and India’s samosas, spicy mashed potatoes and veggies deep fried in a cone of dough.

And all that before we’ve even got to the British classics: fish and chips, roast spuds with Sunday dinner, and the mash so crucial to shepherd’s pie. With all that on offer, it’s almost impossible to believe that potatoes are really on their way out – and especially now, with the colder weather coming on – so we refuse to, quite frankly, and suggest you do the same…

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R E C I P E

HAKE A LA GALLEGA S E RVE S 2

1ltr fish stock (homemade) 2 bay leaves, scrunched up in your hands to release more flavour 1 tsp black peppercorns 2 hake steaks (cross section on the bone, approx. 200g each) 2 large potatoes For the dressing: 2 garlic cloves, evenly and thinly sliced extra virgin olive oil dash Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar ¼ tsp hot smoked paprika, plus extra to serve

FREDDY BIRD HAS COME BACK FROM HIS JOLLIES ALL FIRED UP ABOUT THE HUMBLE SPUD...

I’VE JUST RETURNED from a brief trip to Galicia, an area famed for its seafood.

We feasted on a plethora of lobsters, spider crabs, velvet crabs, percebes, scallops, octopus, oysters, shrimp, cockles, razor clams, clams, mussels – too many to name – but when asked what my favourite dish was, I could only talk about the potatoes. I had the best tortilla I’ve ever tasted, and a great dish of potatoes collapsing under poached skate covered in paprika and oil.

I think I love all potatoes simply for their ability to absorb fat, but the Galician potatoes have an incredible depth of flavour too. I’ve tried really hard to get them delivered to the UK, but with no luck.

For this recipe, choose a potato that will collapse (not a waxy variety), as they want to suck up all the oil in this dish. Don’t worry about what they look like, either – it’s all about the flavour! lidobristol.com

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1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

2 Heat the stock in a pot and add the bay and peppercorns. Season to taste and simmer gently for around 10 minutes until the bay and pepper have infused the stock.

Remove them with a slotted spoon.

3 Next, peel the spuds and, using a knife, tear them into uneven pieces to create a rough edge – aim for chunks about half the size of a golf ball.

4 Gently simmer the potato chunks in the seasoned fish stock until on they’re the verge of collapse, but still with enough structure that they don’t turn to sludge.

5 Season the fish then sear in an ovenfriendly frying pan in a little olive oil until lightly golden. Then flip the fish and transfer it to the oven for around 6-8 minutes, depending on how chunky the steaks are.

6 Meanwhile, cover the bottom of a very small saucepan with enough oil to fry the sliced garlic. Fry until light gold in colour while constantly moving it. To prevent the garlic colouring any more, and to add a little bit of depth to the dish, add the smallest splash of the vinegar, being careful not to let the oil spit back in your face. Lightly season, then add ¼ teaspoon of hot smoked paprika.

7 Spoon the warm potatoes onto a plate using a slotted spoon, straining off most but not all of the fish stock. They don’t want to be swimming in stock, but tiny puddles of it dotted about is perfect. Serve the fish on top, drizzle liberally with the garlic dressing, a little more extra virgin olive oil and a dusting of hot smoked paprika. Serve immediately.

Openings etc

CURRY UP

Dhamaka is Bristol’s newest Indian restaurant, having opened its doors in November in the city centre. Aiming to plug the gap between standard neighbourhood curry houses and fine dining Indian joints, it’s all about casual atmosphere and exciting food, we’re told.

It’s the creation of hospitality pro Vinay Reddy, and is his very first venture. In the kitchen is Jyotirmoy Patra, a pal and former colleague of Vinay who was trained in India and has worked in restaurants across the subcontinent. The menu involves classic favourites – who doesn’t love a good old chicken tikka masala, after all? – as well as some more novel offerings, like Indian-style tacos.

Find the new restaurant on Clare Street in the former Subway site. facebook.com/dhamakadining

MARKET MERRY

Bath Christmas Market is back, and it’s set to be better than ever this year. Comprising more than 160 stalls, it’ll stretch up Milsom Street for the first time, with 80 per cent of all vendors being local to Bath and the surrounding areas. There’s a theme of sustainability for the 2018 event, the streets adorned with decorations made by Christine Leech from used plastic bags and bottles. On Stall Street punters can thaw out with food and locally brewed ales at The Christmas Lodge, run by Framptons and Bath Ales. On Saturdays through market season there will also be street food at Queen Square, as well as a kids’ café. bathchristmasmarket.co.uk

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RIVERSIDE RETAIL

Four weekends of Christmas Harbourside Market action are upon us.

Expect the riverside walkway to be suitably decked out and packed with local makers selling their festive wares every Saturday and Sunday until mid-December. With everything from condiments to spirits and kitchenware on the go, it’s got plenty of foodie Christmas shopping potential. Thing is, retail makes us pretty hungry – but that’s okay, because the street food square promises plenty of good, globally inspired grub to refuel with. theharboursidemarket.co.uk

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ASK YOUR WAITER

HERE’S LUIS BATISTA, MANAGER AT ROSEMARINO

THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE

The Beckford Bottle Shop has landed in Bath, and we’re pretty excited about it. Founded by four mates whose CVs namecheck the likes of Babington and Soho House, this new venture is a sister business to The Beckford Bottle Shop in Timsbury, as well as The Beckford Arms pub. It comprises a bottle shop, cheese and charcuterie counter, cellar lounge and The Tasting Rooms, where you’ll find a menu of small plates with big flavours – think red wine-glazed ox cheek with horseradish, and octopus, chorizo and black bean stew – as well as coffee and cake. And we can’t not mention all those bottles: there is wine here from far and wide – about 250 varieties – available to drink in or take out. With Persianstyle rugs laid on the weathered floorboards, and wooden shelving displaying bottles with brown paper labels hanging from their necks, this place has a cool, antique look about it, but also a great contemporary edge. beckfordbottleshop.com

YOU’RE BOOKED

There’s a new indie bookshop that promises to keep our cookbook collection growing steadily. Storysmith was founded by Emily Ross and her husband Dan – both big food fans – and stocks a selection of hand-picked culinary tomes, ranging from classic favourites to new and interesting recipe collections. Tea and coffee are also served here, and soon locally baked treats will be on offer too. Keep your eye out for author events, as well! storysmithbooks.com

THEM APPLES

Six top-drawer ciders delivered to your door every month? No, the milkman hasn’t gone rogue, Bristol Cider Shop has just launched its I Love Cider Club. Each month, members receive a handful of local brews and one or two special guest ciders that have been hand-picked by the experts at this award-winning cider retailer. Along with your revered bottles, you’ll also receive tasting notes, recipes and cider news from those in the know. You can either have your subscription delivered or save yourself a few quid and pop down to Wapping Wharf to pick it up yourself (and maybe have one of their infamous cheese toasties while you’re there). bristolcidershop.co.uk

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How long have you been in hospitality?

About 12 years now.

What’s the best thing about your current job? Making people happy! Whether you are a chef or a waiter, to serve people good food and drink and provide them with a great experience is fulfilling.

And the most challenging part?

Keeping your team working well together; this is one of the most important, but also difficult, tasks in hospitality.

What sort of customers do you get? It’s a mixture, really. Because of where we are located in Clifton, we have a mature and sophisticated crowd – especially for dinner – but we also get a lot of students who love our breakfast.

What are the bestselling dishes?

The ‛one pan wonder’ for brunch, and any of the fresh pastas for dinner. The ox cheek ragu on tagliatelle is a nice choice, and very popular.

And how about drinks? We do great coffees and hot drinks here, like the artisan Italian hot chocolate, which is one of our regulars’ fave. But our twists on the Negroni and Hugo Fizz are hits in the evening.

If you were a customer this Christmas, what would you order from the festive menu? The set menu this year is looking good! I would probably go for the polpette (lamb and spicy nduja meatballs) to start, followed by the porchetta for main, then orange and dark chocolate panna cotta.

How will the restaurant be getting into the Christmas spirit this season? With vino, of course! There will be weekly specials to sip in the cosy, candlelit restaurant, and we will also have some subtle but welcoming Christmas décor, including some carefully positioned sprigs of mistletoe…

Where do you like to eat on your days off? I quite like The Bristolian for brunches and Bosco for pizza, and I recently had a fantastic roast dinner at Birch. rosemarino.co.uk

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NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

MEET SUS DAVY– SHE’S JUST TAKEN OVER PLANT-BASED CAFÉ CASCARA @ciarahillyer gets her mitts around a coffee @albatrosscafebristol

Let’s begin with the fondest foodie memory from your childhood.

My mum calling my sister and me downstairs after she had baked a cake so we could lick the batter from the beaters.

What food most reminds you of Christmas?

A raw cranberry sauce that we started making a few years ago. It’s so zesty – I love it!

Where might we know you from?

I run a food blog called Rough Measures, which was nominated for a BOOM (Best of Organic Market) award two years ago. I got to meet some of my cheffing idols!

Tell us what attracted you to Cascara?

I always loved the café on Upper Borough Walls, and was sad to see it for sale. I think it’s in a great location with a lovely vibe and loyal customers.

@thebanktavern’s warming duck heart cassoulet

What’s the concept of the menu, now you’re in charge?

Simple, flavoursome dishes. Bath is missing places for a good light bite.

Which current dish do you think best illustrates the café’s style?

Our ‛three dip plate’ – it’s going down really well.

Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in?

I love Nourish on London Road. The menu is interesting and the service is always fab when we go in.

What makes the local foodie scene so great?

We have so many independents in Bath which seem to be doing really well, and there are so many options to choose from in such a small city.

We are really lucky!

What are your favourite ingredients at the moment?

I always love all the squash varieties we get at this time of year.

@shonette_ thaws out with a dal from @gopalscurryshak Your pic could be here!

Just use #CrumbsSnaps on your foodie Insta posts and we might print one of yours next issue...

Will you be cooking Christmas lunch at home?

I go back to my parent’s for Christmas – my mum cooks up a storm. I am always on sprout duty, though!

What’s on the menu for Christmas Day? I’m hoping a festive chestnut pie, with lots of that raw cranberry sauce... facebook.com/sascarabath

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COME IN OVER THE FESTIVE SEASON AND QUOTE ' M E R R Y C R U M B S M A S ' AT R E C E P T I O N T O R E C E I V E YOUR FREE MULLED WINE OR COFFEE AND MINCE PIE. Te rms a n d c o n d i t i ons a p p l y, of f er onl y v a l i d unt i l 3 0 t h D ecem b er.

Please contact bathevents@cnty.com for all private hire and package enquiries Saw Close Bath BA1 1EY 01225 308 990 Know your limits! For more information go to: BeGambleAware.org – DrinkAware.co.uk

www.cnty.com/bath Come for the Action, Stay for the Fun!

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In the Larder

the niCe List

FROM BIRDS TO BEER, HERE’S SOME GREAT LOCAL FOOD AND DRINK TO GET IN FOR CHRISTMAS 1. Lacock Dairy Christmas Pudding Ice Cream, £5.99/500ml This local producer has nailed its new Christmas Pudding flavour. Creamy and decadent with flecks of chewy fruit and a well-balanced boozy hit, it tastes as close to the real thing as we could have imagined.

Made with fresh milk from local dairy cows and nothing artificial, it’s velvety in texture and natural in taste. A great accompaniment to festive desserts – or just eaten from the tub on Christmas night with a sweet sherry. Find it at Allington Farm Shop, Whiterow Farm Shop and online; lacockdairy.co.uk

5. Copas Free-Range Turkey Crown, £51/2-3kg If you struggle for time and space in the kitchen on C-Day, a turkey crown might be the way to go – it still looks the part but cooks quicker and will leave you with fewer leftovers, as it comes without the legs.

(It’s also good, then, if you have picky eaters who favour the white flesh.) These slowly reared birds make for super-juicy meat – no more dry turk. The crowns come with a recipe card to help you get the perfect roasting result, as well as giblets for that gravy.

Available from Molesworths of Henleazeand online; copasturkeys.co.uk

2. Marks and Spencer Hand Decorated Shimmering Tree, £10/320g This chocolate tree, with its cool geometric design, would make an impressive sweet centrepiece on the festive table. Decorated with shimmering gold, the shell is made with creamy Belgian choc and is plenty big enough for the whole family to share (although sharing is not obligatory). Find it at Marks and Spencer in Bath and Bristol; marksandspencer.com

6. Salcombe Brewery Christmas Tide, £19/8x500ml This dark, rich beer has strong maltiness which makes it ideal for curling up with on a chilly evening. Crack one open on Christmas night: its bold chocolatey notes will pair well with the mince pies, chocs and second (third?) helping of C-pud that star in the evening grazing sesh. Buy online from Devon’s Salcombe Brewery (it comes in bag-in-box form as well as bottles); salcombebrewery.com

3 Dunleavy Brut Sparkling Wine 2016, £34.99/75cl This exciting new release from Chew Valley-based Dunleavy – best known for its signature rosé – has arrived just in time for the festive season. It’s made from 2016’s Seyval Blanc grape harvest and is light, fresh and crisp. An elegant fizz, it sure has a sense of occasion about it and some top aperitif game. It’s vegan, too. Move fast, though – only 500 bottles were made! Find it at Grape and Grind in Bristol and online; dunleavyvineyards.co.uk 4. Salcombe Distilling Co Guiding Star, £65/70cl Released in November for the festive season, this limited edition sloe and damson gin was made in collaboration with a family port producer and aged in one of its tawny port casks. The base gin recipe was developed especially, using botanicals to complement the sloe and damson flavours. Expect notes of red and dark berries as well as orange. This is a pretty special sip for Crimbo and, unusually for sloe gin, has no added sugar. Find it in Independent Spirit of Bath and online; salcombegin.com

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7. Aldwick Flying Pig, £14.50/75cl If you want a rouge to enjoy with your turkey lunch then try this local number; light and soft with lots of berry and herbaceous notes, it won’t overpower the delicate white meat. Given its gentle nature, we drank it ever so slightly chilled (straight from the porch) and thought how ideal it would be to quaff early afternoon on the big day, before moving onto the heavier, full-bodied reds in the evening. Get it from Aldwick Court Farm and Vineyard and online; aldwickcourtfarm.co.uk 8. Belazu Preserved Lemons, £3/220g We like to use these lemons, preserved simply in salt and water, for roasting chicken – and reckon they’ll work wonders on this year’s turkey, too. Place one in the bird’s cavity – along with garlic and herbs, perhaps – and it’ll subtly infuse the meat and its juices with citrus notes. Find them at Waitrose in Bath and Bristol, and online at Ocado; ocado.com

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what a catch!

IF THERE’S ANY FOOD MORE BRITISH AND MORE COMFORTING THAN FISH AND CHIPS, WE’D LIKE TO HEAR ABOUT IT. MEANTIME, WE’LL BE TUCKING INTO A CHIPPY TEA – LIKELY AT ONE OF THESE GREAT GAFFS

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1 REEL SOUL

2 SALT AND MALT

3 THE SCALLOP SHELL

Back in September, the family behind Gloucester Road’s long-standing Café Ronak took over a fish and chip shop just down the hill. Reel Soul serves everything from chip cones to classic fish suppers (there’s glutenfree batter on the go here as well, for those asking), as well as kids’ meals. All that’s to eat in or take away (if you’re stopping, there are wines and local beers on offer), and all the seafood meets MSC guidelines, too.

“Our £1 cones of chips are loved by everyone from school kids to pensioners,” says Kaveh Darafshi. “So, it’s very important for us to keep this offer going for as long as we can – even when potato prices shoot through the roof!”

As for those chips, the team work with local producers and are regulars at the Bristol Fruit Market to make sure they can secure the best quality Maris Pipers around. facebook.com/reelsoulfish

Achieving the perfect chip sure is an art, and one that the guys at this place take seriously.

First, they blanch their chopped spuds at a low temperate, then leave to rest before a really hot fry; this double cooking creates chips with crisp skins and fluffy interiors.

Namely, the perfect buddies to battered fish.

The haddock and cod here – which are subject to that battering treatment – are caught in the North Atlantic Ocean, as it goes, and are frozen at sea for optimum freshness.

The Chew Valley restaurant – perched on the banks of Chew Lake – has a full restaurant menu as well as the fish and chip offering, including oysters (which they’d recommend with a glass of something fizzy, like Greyfriars English sparkling wine) and mussels cooked with shallots and garlic. Right now, though, with the chilly weather having set in, the warming fish soup is coming into its own. saltmalt.com

An industrial-look décor with a splash of marine style is what you can expect from this cool seafood restaurant – as well as, of course, that bathtub, packed with all manner of fresh seafood nestled in heaps of crushed ice. As much of said fish as possible is sourced from UK shores, both to support our fishermen and ensure sustainability.

There’s plenty to get your chops around here; try the signature diver-caught scallops, simply seared and served with garlic and parsley butter (you’ll notice these guys favour simplicity in their cooking, showcasing the quality of the fish), or maybe the ever-popular cod with chips and tartare sauce.

“Lots of seafood is great in December, providing it’s not too stormy,” says owner Garry Rosser. “Red mullet, brill, squid and wild line-caught sea bass, in particular, which will be at its best in terms of value and quality.” thescallopshell.co.uk

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THERE’S CHRISTMAS GIFTING INSPO A-PLENTY AMONG THIS MONTH’S BATCH OF BOOKS VEGAN CHRISTMAS Gaz Oakley (Quadrille, £15) It was only in January that chef Gaz Oakley – known in the social media sphere as Avant Garde Vegan – launched his debut book, Vegan 100. Now he’s back with a totally plantbased festive offering, which has more than enough recipes to see you through not only C-Day itself but the entire festive season – think everything from party food to recipes for leftovers, and even edible gifts. For the big day itself, expect brekkies like caramelised bananas and sweet potato waffles with mushrooms; impressive centerpieces for the main event (such as a Wellington and stuffed squash); trimmings (including gravy and roast potatoes, of course); and both classic and novel desserts (think Christmas pud, but also fried doughnut profiteroles). There are lots of meat- and dairy- inspired recipes here – ‘turkey’, ‘bacon’ and ‘cheese’, for instance – which can seem rather labour-intensive and call for less familiar ingredients, such as nutritional yeast and tapioca starch. But thanks to Gaz’s down-to-earth, enthusiastic attitude, you might find yourself fired up about the undertaking. J ESSICA CA RTER THE BEER KITCHEN Melissa Cole (Hardie Grant, £20) In her third book, award-winning beer expert Melissa Cole focuses on the relationship between hop-infused lubricants and food.

The varied and hearty dishes not only feature all kinds of brews within them (and yes, the variety of beer you use in each is important), but also come with suggestions for drink matches. The collection of over 70 recipes is doused in a good glug of advice, information and science (all of which is offered in plain English and with a sense of humour). It covers everything from taste and flavour to beer styles, brewing and kitchen cupboard staples. Effort levels ramp up through the book, taking us from the straightforward likes of spag bol pimped with German hefeweizen, flanders oud bruin-spiked Sichuan aubergine, and stout and chocolate pots, to showstoppers such as beer-brined porchetta and lambic marshmallows with stout fondue. This is a fascinating and light-hearted investigation into beer and cookery – and the wonderful things that can be achieved by combining the two. J ESSICA CA RTER TASTY ULTIMATE Buzzfeed (Ebury Press, £20) You may find this book slightly off-putting at first: the design’s not pretty, everyone

writing it seems to have had too much sugar this morning – “Goodness gracious, great balls of (baked) falafel” is a typical line – and nobody’s bothered to Anglicise it, so we keep getting references to Colby Jack cheese (like gouda, it turns out) and ‘canned biscuit dough’, for which it seems you’ll have to find local alternatives. But! Look more closely and this is a actually a pretty useful collection of student-friendly recipes, from Buzzfeed’s youth-orientated social food network, and “the biggest franchise on Facebook”. There’s

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over 150 of the things, ranging from baked avocado eggs and ‘the best crispy chicken Parmesan’ to sausage, apple and Cheddar monkey bread, and truffle mac ’n’ cheese.

With an emphasis on eliminating washing up (check out the full English breakfast cups, which cram the whole thing into a single muffin tin) and getting maximum bang for your buck (in terms of effort, cost and flavour), you can easily see this turning a reluctant chef into an experimental one, in which case job done, really. M AT T BI E LBY

TOGETHER The Hubb Community Kitchen (Ebury Press, £9.99) This good-value collection of largely North African and Middle Eastern recipes was inspired by the surprise visit of HRH The Duchess of Sussex (you know, Meghan Markle, as was) to The Hubb Community Kitchen, based in a West London Muslim community centre. ‘Hubb’ means ‘love’ in Arabic, and many of the women who gather and cook in the kitchens at the Al-Manaar Centre were displaced in the aftermath of the Grenfell Tower disaster; here they can chat, laugh, and cook for their families. But when the Duchess asked why the kitchen was only open two days a week and was told it was for lack of funding, her suggestion that a cookbook might help lit a few lightbulbs, and here we are. The really appealing thing about Together is how tasty, colourful and achievable most of these recipes are, from the stunning Iraqi green rice to the Persian beef and aubergine casserole, the Algerian shakshouka to the Lebanese vegetable lasagne. These are really personal recipes, often combining cultural backgrounds to winning effect. MATT B IEL BY BLACK SEA Caroline Eden (Quadrille, £25) Now here’s a very impressive, atmospheric book. First there’s the very look of the thing – the blue-black edges to the paper – then there’s the unusual travelogue structure.

Journalist Caroline Eden takes a road trip around the Black Sea ports, starting in the Ukraine pleasure resort of Odessa and hopping through Romania, Bulgaria and so on, with major stops at Istanbul and tough Trabzon. Caroline’s first book, Samarkand, told of a similar trip to Soviet Uzbekistan and was named the Guild of Food Writer’s Best Food and Travel Book 2017. This is similarly packed with stories (both historical oddities and her own adventures) and intriguing images, as well as recipes that illuminate people and places – and sound bloody delicious. One moment you’ll be learning the history of the Odessa Steps, and the next how to make a colourful and mega-meaty Bigos stew, originally cooked in forests where Polish hunters would drop whatever game they’d caught into a pot with peppers, pickled fruit and sauerkraut. You’ll definitely cook stuff from Black Sea but, more than that, you’ll be sucked into another world.

M AT T BI EL BY

SEXY SPROUTS

From: Vegan Christmas by Gaz Oakley (Quadrille, £15); photography by Simon Smith

EVEN IF YOU’RE NOT usually a sprout lover, I promise you will love these. Topping them with my coconut ‘bacon’ bits just takes them to the next level.

SERVES 4 500g Brussels sprouts, trimmed 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 200g vacuum-packed chestnuts, chopped in half 1 tsp fennel seeds handful dried cranberries 1 lemon, zest only For the coconut ‘bacon’ bits: 100g coconut flakes 2 tbsp maple syrup 1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp coconut oil 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4 and line a baking tray with nonstick baking paper.

2 First up, make the coconut ‘bacon’ bits. Put all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir well to coat the coconut flakes. Spread them out evenly over the lined baking tray and bake for 10-15

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minutes, or until golden and crisp. Stir the coconut on the tray a couple of times during cooking to avoid it burning (which it can easily do).

3 For the sprouts, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Gradually add the sprouts, making sure the water keeps at a rolling boil, and cook until tender and a vibrant green colour, usually around 3-4 minutes.

4 Once the sprouts are cooked, drain and place them onto a tray lined with kitchen paper to soak up excess water, if cooking straight away. Alternatively, you can chill the sprouts in the fridge at this stage until you’re ready to flavour them up just before serving.

5 Before serving, heat the rapeseed oil in a large work over a high heat.

Add the sprouts and sauté them for 2 minutes, then add the rest of the ingredients and continue to cook over a high heat, stirring often, for 3 more minutes. A little colour on the sprouts adds great flavour.

6 Once your sprouts are nicely coloured, throw in a handful of coconut ‘bacon’, saving the rest to sprinkle on top once you’ve dished up.

BATH’S BEST BUTCHER Bath Good Food Awards: Best Butcher Winner 2013-Present Crumbs Awards: Best Retailer Winner 2017 & Finalist 2018 Bath Life Awards: Environmental Finalist 2018

L

arkhall Butchers combines passionate, traditional butchery with a modern take on the profession. We strive to create an atmosphere that is welcoming to customers.

Our friendly staff can provide you with invaluable knowledge and ideas to bring to the table this Christmas.

From free-range turkeys to grass-fed beef, all reared on local farms, our range of meat is sourced both humanely and ethically, and is of the best quality.

CHRISTMAS ORDERS NOW BEING TAKEN

Larkhall Butchers just continues to live up to its name of being the best butcher in Bath for consecutive years. The produce is always of the highest quality, and the shop just gets better every year!

Ping Coombes, MasterChef 2014 winner

1 Lambridge Buildings, Bath BA1 6RS | 01225 313 987 larkhallbutchers.co.uk | info@larkhallbutchers.co.uk

Shallots bring sweetness to Gizzi Erskine’s novel take on a coq au vin

CHEF!

WHAT TO AND HOW TOMAKE MAKE IT – DIRECT FRO THE KITCHENS O M OUR FAVOURIT F FOODIES E

HIGHLIGHTS

CRAZY CHICK

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH ORANGE WINE AND BRANDY PAGE 24

GINGER SPICE

A NO-COOK SEAFOOD STARTER FOR C-DAY PAGE 27

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VEGGING OUT

PREP THIS XMAS VEG DISH THE DAY BEFORE PAGE 28

PLUS!

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THE WINE GUY'S FESTIVE FIZZ FIX

Recipe taken from Slow

by Gizzi Erskine (£25, HQ); photography © Issy Croker

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C H E F !

BRAISED CHICKEN WITH SHALLOTS, ORANGE WINE AND BRANDY This dish is very similar in principle to a classic coq au vin, but instead of using a robust red wine I have opted for a more modern approach and used orange wine instead, writes Gizzi. And, in place of the smoky body from the bacon, we’re getting sweetness from the shallots.

Orange wine is pretty trendy at the moment, and is increasingly available in good wine shops and really worth investigating. It creates a more complex sauce, with rusty, sherry-like undertones, and the brandy injects extra life into the dish.

SERVES 6

ORaNGe IS The New Red

DID YOU CATCH GIZZI ERSKINE AT HER EVENT IN BATH RECENTLY? IF NOT, HERE’S A RECIPE FROM HER NEW BOOK TO MAKE UP FOR IT – BECAUSE THE XMAS PUD ISN’T THE ONLY THING YOU SHOULD BE FLAMBÉING THIS SEASON...

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2 tbsp rapeseed oil (or clarified butter) 1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces 1 garlic bulb, halved 8 banana shallots, thinly sliced ½ tsp tomato purée 1 tbsp plain flour 50ml brandy 1 bottle medium-bodied French orange wine 500ml chicken stock 3 bay leaves few sprigs of thyme 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp sherry vinegar 1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

Heat a good lug of the oil or clarified butter in a large heavy-based, lidded casserole. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and brown them in 2 batches. Cook for 4 minutes on each side and set aside.

2 Add some more oil to the pan, and place the garlic bulb halves face down for a few minutes until they begin to caramelise. Next throw in the shallots and cook in the chicken juices for 30 minutes. Scrape the bottom of the pan to remove all the delicious chicken residue. Add the tomato purée and flour and cook for a few minutes.

3 Return the chicken pieces to the pan. Now you need to flambé! The easiest way to do this is to put half the brandy into a metal ladle, and the rest into the casserole. Set the brandy in the ladle alight and pour it over the chicken. Allow the flame to die down. Next, pour in the wine and the stock, then add the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Season well with salt and pepper. Put the lid on the casserole and place in the oven for 1 hour.

4 Once the cooking time is up, remove from the oven and stir in the sugar and vinegar. This might sound a bit unusual, but trust me, it really elevates the flavours of the stew. Serve with mashed potatoes and greens.

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C H E F !

a PRaWN cRaCKeR! LOCAL COOK, FOOD WRITER AND TEACHER MARY CADOGAN HAS JUST THE RECIPE FOR THAT CHRISTMAS LUNCH STARTER

M AT T A U S T I N

“I devised this starter to serve at my Christmas pop-up suppers,” Mary tells us. “It’s no-cook, elegant and simple to put together from elements you can prepare in advance – and looks very pretty, too. Serve on large white plates for maximum effect.”

Mary’s next supper clubs are at The Cross at Croscombe on 14 Dec and 25 Jan; cross-croscombe.co.uk.

Mary will also be at The Little Pop-Up Christmas shop in Timsbury between 30 Nov and 2 Dec, and at Croscombe Christmas Market on 8 Dec

SMOKED SALMON WITH PRAWNS AND A LIME AND GINGER SALAD SERVES 4 2 tbsp crème fraîché 2 tsp horseradish sauce 2 limes 1 tsp root ginger, finely grated

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4 tbsp light olive oil (or ½ olive and sunflower oils) 2 tsp clear honey 8 slices smoked salmon 20 large prawns, cooked 4 handfuls small salad leaves paprika (or espelette pepper), to serve 1 Mix the crème fraîché with the horseradish sauce and a little salt and pepper.

2 Finely grate the rind from one lime into a bowl, then squeeze in the juice from both. Whisk together with the ginger, and season with salt and pepper. Then whisk in the oil and honey.

3 To serve, divide the smoked salmon and prawns over 4 large plates and spoon a little horseradish cream onto each.

4 Toss the salad leaves in most of the dressing and pile onto each plate next to the seafood. Drizzle the remaining dressing around the plate and sprinkle with a little paprika or espelette.

C H E F !

Adrian is head chef and co-owner of The Pear Tree, Whitley. This pub-restaurant with rooms is in a centuries-old farmhouse in rural Wiltshire. The food here is all about big flavours and seasonality – and seeing to it that no diner leaves without a full belly.

There’s a special festive menu on at the moment, and we’ve convinced Adrian to share a recipe from it that we could use for our own celebratory lunch on Christmas Day. “This side dish can be found on our Christmas celebration menu and brings together classic flavours,” says Adrian. “It’s a great dish to prepare on Christmas Eve and simply reheat – less stress on the big day. I don’t peel my carrots or parsnips, just wash well – but it’s up to you whether you want to or not!”

ROAST WINTER VEGETABLES WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY SERVES 8 (AS A SIDE) 1kg parsnips, washed and quartered lengthways 1kg carrots, washed and quartered lengthways celeriac, peeled and diced 4 shallots, peeled and quartered lengthways 2 garlic bulbs, cut in half 3 sprigs rosemary, leaves picked 100ml extra virgin rapeseed oil

SO PRePPY

1 On Christmas Eve, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4.

2 Get a large bowl and mix all the prepared ingredients together with the rapeseed oil and season well. I like to use my hands for this bit.

3 Spread out the vegetables evenly on your largest roasting tray, and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. The vegetables should be soft(ish) but not too coloured. Take them out if you’re happy; if not, put them back in the oven for another 5 minutes and check again.

4 When they’re done, leave the vegetables to cool completely, then put them in the fridge in an airtight container, being careful not to break them up.

5 On Christmas Day, preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ gas mark 4.

6 Simply spread the vegetables back out on a tray and place in the oven for 10 minutes until they’re heated through and have coloured.

ADRIAN JENKINS SHARES A RECIPE FOR CHRISTMAS LUNCH THAT CAN HANDILY BE PREPPED THE DAY BEFORE

Pear Tree Inn, Top Lane, Whitley SN12 8QX; 01225 704966; peartreewhitley.co.uk

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THE WINE GUY

DIVING HOME FOR CHRISTMAS

A

ANDY CLARKE HAS BEEN CAUSING HAVOC WITH FELLOW CRUMBS COLUMNIST FREDDY BIRD AT BRISTOL’S LIDO, IN ORDER TO BRING YOU A FESTIVE FOOD AND WINE MATCH...

s much as I love Christmas traditions – donning kitsch knitwear, switching on the sparkly lights and clutching a mulled wine – I like to shake things up a bit. My alternative festive rules? First, keep the barbecue fired up – outdoor cooking is actually great fun in the colder months.

Second, carry on drinking the rosé: it’s not just for summer, you know! And third, get outdoors for a swim – nothing beats getting active in the water when it’s raining – or even snowing!

The latter brings me to my destination for this month’s culinary capers: Bristol Lido

(and it gave me the perfect excuse to hang out in the pool with its strapping head chef, Freddy Bird).

This year, for Christmas lunch, Freddy is shunning the traditional turkey roast and going for a comforting taste of the Middle East with duck fattee – a tantalisingly rich slow-roast dish, perfect for sharing. The bird is roasted with Christmas spices (cinnamon, clove, star anise, allspice and ginger), layered with rice, crisp bread, tomatoes, chickpeas and squash, and then covered in yoghurt, pine nuts, brown butter and parsley. I mean, wow. You’ll need a swim after eating all that...

It’s a truly delicious recipe, which deserves

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some exquisite wine to drink alongside.

So, for my Christmas recommendations, I’m turning to a Bristol-based online wine company, Nfizz.

Isabelle and Frederic Leberre came to Bristol from France four years ago, and have set up their family home in leafy Frenchay.

They are importers, wholesalers and retailers of organic, biodynamic and natural wines – and I’ve got three of their veganfriendly belters for you.

A delicious stunner for Freddy’s fattee is the Chenu Père and Filles Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2015 from Burgundy. It’s all too easy to get carried away with rich reds

C H E F !

SLOW ROAST DUCK FATTEE SERVES 4- 6

DRINK UP!

Chenu Père and Filles Bourgogne Pinot Noir £19.40 Alsace Schaeffer Woerly White Pinot Gris £13.50 Schaeffer Woerly Crémant d’Alsace Rosé £15 There is currently a Christmas offer at Nfizz: get a 10-percent discount on your first order of six bottles of any kind – just enter the code CHRISTMAS18 at the checkout! Afterwards, for any order of bottles there is at least a five-percent discount with checkout code ECO6. Delivery is free of charge to addresses with a BS postcode. nfizz.co.uk

in winter, so the light touch of Pinot Noir is very welcome, especially here, as the pepper and spice on the nose are perfect for all the spices on the duck.

The luxurious red currant fruit on the palate is great with the unctuous meat and texture of the chickpeas and the squash, too. On the finish, the sweet fruit mellows into a savoury kiss perfect for any roast at this time of year. This is a true biodynamic beauty.

Because of the range of accompaniments in Freddy’s fattee, a white could do it justice, too.

Domaine Schaeffer Woerly Alsace Pinot Gris is petrolly on the noise rather than being instantly fruity, which leads into how it is on the palate too. It’s citrusy, with a hint of gooseberry, which is the perfect partner to the acidity of the tomatoes and the lactic tang of the yoghurt. But it also has a rich, almost oily texture that’s fab with the chickpeas, aubergine and duck meat. The long length of the wine and the white pepper finish is delightful – just don’t serve too cold, or it will appear too thin.

And, just because I bloody love you all so much, I’ve got a bonus third wine for you – to be enjoyed on Christmas Day (because it wouldn’t even be Christmas Day without pink fizz in my house).

Domaine Schaeffer Woerly Rosé is from the same domaine as the Pinot Gris and is an absolute bargain.

It has an excitingly lively fizz that complements the candied strawberry sweetness. The flavour then lengthens into a pleasing finish with a hint more acidity than you first expect. If you’re serving any shellfish or smoked salmon as a nibble, I can’t recommend this pink Crémant enough.

Andy Clarke is a freelance TV producer and writer; follow him on Twitter @TVsAndyClarke; one4thetable.com

“This recipe is adapted from my time at Moro,” says Freddy. “It’s classically made using poached chicken, but I’ll be using duck and serving it at home for Christmas lunch.”

For the duck: 1 free-range duck (approx. 3kg) ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ¼ ground star anise ¼ tsp ground allspice ¼ tsp ground clove 2 sticks celery, halved 2 carrots, halved 2 onions, halved 1 garlic bulb, halved

3 cardamom pods pinch cumin seeds 4 allspice 6 coriander seeds

2 bay leaves 1 stick cinnamon 400g tin tomatoes, blended pinch sugar

For the pilaf: 350g (approx.) basmati rice ½ litre chicken stock, very well seasoned knob butter 3 cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick

For the stock: 1 litre fresh chicken stock (not from cube)

For the tomato sauce: 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced olive oil

To serve: 2 pitta breads large knob butter 1 aubergine 210g tin chickpeas 250g full-fat natural yoghurt 1 garlic clove, crushed handful pine nuts, toasted handful parsley, chopped pinch Aleppo pepper flakes (optional)

1 Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7.

2 Sprinkle the duck liberally with fine salt and pepper and rub the ground spices on the duck skin. Then place it in a roasting tray on a trivet of celery, carrot, onion, garlic and all the duck giblets and put into the oven for 30 minutes.

3 Simmer all the stock ingredients together for 15-20 minutes, then strain.

4 After the duck’s been roasting for 30 minutes, add the strained chicken stock and lower the temperature to 150C/300F/gas mark 2, and cook for a further 90 minutes (approx.). The meat is not going to be pink but well done – it will, however, still be incredibly moist and juicy!

5 Meanwhile, prepare the rest of the dish. For the pilaf, thoroughly wash the rice (as much as you think you’ll want, depending on how many are eating) and leave to soak in cold water for about 1 hour to get rid of any starchiness.

6 When the rice is ready, heat the chicken stock and, in a separate saucepan, brown a large knob of butter. Add the cardamom pods and cinnamon stick to the butter, then the drained rice. Cook over a high heat for a few seconds before adding the stock (it should covering the rice by about ½cm) and cook for 2-3 minutes. Then cover with a tight fitting lid, turn the heat down and cook for a further 8 minutes. Do not be tempted to lift the lid. The rice will hopefully catch a little on the bottom of the pan – remember to scrape up those crispy bits!

7 For the tomato sauce, lightly brown the sliced garlic in olive oil. Add the bay leaves,

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cinnamon, tomatoes, and a pinch of salt and sugar. Cook for about 20 minutes over a low heat, making sure it remains nice and wet.

8 Slice open the pittas, melt some butter, then brush the breads with it and cook in the oven until golden and crispy. Then break up into chunks and leave to cool on a rack.

9 Dice the aubergine into 1 ½cm chunks, season and leave in a colander with a bowl underneath for 20 minutes. Then fry in olive oil until cooked and golden.

10 For the brown butter, fry a large knob of butter in a small frying pan over a medium heat. The curds will sink to the bottom and start to catch, then they’ll go golden and begin to smell rich and caramelised. Careful you don't take it too far and burn it. Set aside in a small ramekin.

11 Drain the chickpeas and warm them up.

Mix the crushed garlic clove with the yoghurt.

12 To plate, put the crisp bread chunks around the edges of a big sharing dish, then arrange the pilaf in the middle. Shred large chucks of duck and skin over this and pour over any remaining roasting juices (you don't want it to be swimming, just juicy). Scatter over the warm aubergine and chickpeas.

13 Next pour over the tomato sauce – but don’t swamp it – then drizzle over the yoghurt followed by the brown butter. Finally, sprinkle over the pine nuts and a good amount of roughly chopped parsley. I like to sprinkle over a few Aleppo pepper flakes for a slight kick, too. Eat it whilst it’s warm! lidobristol.com

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037

ARMOURY CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS

JUICY GOOSeY

The OXO Good Grips Flavour Injector costs £15 from Lakeland in Bath or Bristol’s Cribbs Causeway; oxouk.com

What is this, a David Cronenberg film?

That thing looks proper medical – and in an over-sized, frankly quite scary-looking way, too.

No, no! Dismiss from your thoughts rampant venereal diseases, exploding heads and creepy gynaecologist twins, and think instead fireside tipples, Tiny Tim and all things Christmassy. For this little Flavour Injector – okay, it’s a whopping great syringe – is going to help you rustle up your moistest Christmas bird ever. How? It helps baste your turkey’s notoriously dry flesh (hey, these things have always had a very tricky breastto-leg ratio) from the inside out, and works just as well on a goose, too.

FROM COOL NEW YORK KITCHEN UTENSIL BRAND OXO – NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE STOCK CUBE PEOPLE – COMES THE GOOD GRIPS FLAVOUR INJECTOR. AND WHO, ASKS MATT BIELBY, DOESN’T LOVE A PLUMP, JUICY BIRD?

You what?

It’s quite simple. You just load it up with your marinade, melted herb butter or what-haveyou, grab your bird by the fattest bit, then wham: you squirt it full of flavour. All those delicious tastes are sealed inside – and it makes Crimbo morning that tiny bit easier, because you don’t need to keep going back to the oven to coat the T-bird in its juices.

Sounds great, but will I really get much use out of this thing? After all, how often do I cook a turkey? (I’ll tell you: once a year.)

Like I said, it doesn’t just work with turkeys, silly. Yes, think also goose – you know, if you’re posh – or your standard weekend

chicken, or any other chunk of meat, if you’re feeling inventive. You get two different size twist-off stainless steel needles with this thing, the small one for free-flowing butter, and the fat one for any fancy marinades packed with chunky herbs and spices. (They both store easily inside the tube when you’re done too, so you’re not going to lose them – or accidentally spike yourself while rummaging in the kitchen drawer.)

I’m thinking it might also work when I’m trying to copy Bake Off… Go for it; there’s no reason why it couldn’t pump jam right into the centre of your doughnut, too.

THIS MONTH • NEEDLEWORK • LUNCH BUNCH • CHRISTMAS CRACKERS

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The Supper Club

MISTLeTOe aNd SwIne

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN WILD FORK WEST AND LARKHALL BUTCHERS JOIN FORCES TO CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON? OBSERVE...

WORDS BY JESSICA CARTER PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALICE WHITBY

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T H E

i

f there was ever an Instagram-ready kitchen, it’s mine. Not. Mine’s tiny, the worktops are usually scattered with sauce-splattered recipe books and food magazines, I have to-do lists scrawled on my wall tiles, and there’s never not washing up in the sink. This made me all the more envious of Michael Holloway (founder of Wild Fork West, a catering and private chef biz) and his drop-dead space.

The back wall is actually the exterior of the house next door; the room has been extended out into what was the path between the two buildings and connects to the neighbour’s house with a glass roof. The once-external wall of weathered Bath stone has been kept as is, and on it now hang shelves and a collection of rustic copper pans. The worktops reflect that raw, industrial feel with a polished concrete effect, and the minimalist, handless cupboards are dark wood with deep grains. An island separates the kitchen and dining space – the latter being filled with a long glass table, which lends itself well to the light and spacious feel.

This picture is very far from the one that Michael and his wife Hannah were met with when they moved into the house, though; they’ve done a huge amount of work to it since relocating here from London.

When we arrive, Michael is busy cooking – and has been for the last few hours, by the looks of things. He stirs a pale, silky-looking soup, as Lorna MacDougall – who works with him at his catering business – relieves a Prosecco bottle of its cork, and begins to decant the contents into six glass goblets.

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S U P P E R

C L U B

we’re much more than just a café you know...

0117 305 0505 f x avenuecafebristol a AvenueCafe1 www.avenue-cafe.com | St. Luke’s House, Emerson’s Green, Bristol BS16 7AR

Celebrate New Year with us the choice is yours 4 course tasting menu. Prosecco on arrival £70 per person | Bookings only 7-9pm “Buffet in the Bar” 2 courses | £15 | From 9.30pm

www.peartreewhitley.co.uk @peartreewhitley

christmas@peartreewhitley.co.uk or call 01225 704966

T H E

Among the participants of this festive chow-down is Pete Milton from Larkhall Butchers, which just so happens to be conveniently located across the road. It’s no surprise, then, that Pete and Michael are good mates, and that when they get together over food, it’s a lucky thing to be in the same kitchen. Pete had come up trumps with a suckling pig for the main event today – Michael having decided to deviate from the traditional Crimbo poultry – but also brought along scallops (from Wing of St Mawes) and bacon (of Sandridge Farm pedigree) for Michael to work his magic on – both of which were to go in that soup.

I have a habit of loitering like a bad smell in the kitchen when someone is cooking (can’t resist a nosey at what they’re up to), so I was soon given a job to keep myself out of trouble: namely, searing those super-fresh scallops. Hob ring fired up and covered with a heavy-based pan, it was in with a good glug of olive oil, then each of the delicate scallops.

We were after a good bit of caramelisation around the edges, which not only gives colour and flavour to the mild mollusc, but also extra texture. Once they had started to turn a dark golden brown at the edges, it was in with a decentsized knob of butter and time to flip them over. Soon, they were plopped into the bowls that Michael had been filling with velvety celeriac soup. After a scattering of crisp

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PETE’S ALTERNATIVE FESTIVE CENTERPIECES “I’m all about the seasonal showstopper,” says Pete Milton of Larkhall Butchers.

“Obviously, a suckling pig is right up there with the best for me, but there are loads worth mentioning. Goose is always a seasonal favourite of mine. Generally speaking, they’re only really reared for Christmas, so even if it is destined for the freezer, now is the time to stock up. I just love the flavour – it’s like a cross between duck and beef. Speaking of which, any beef on the bone is an impressive centrepiece; think rib of beef or sirloin. We also get incredible triple-smoked gammon on the bone at the butchers, too – I take four joints for the freezer every year, as it is the only time you can get them. Upend an old jar of marmalade on it that has been sitting in the cupboard for god-knows-how-long and roast – the effect is pure decadence. I also think, and perhaps more for a Christmas Eve party, a whole dressed salmon shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s actually a surprisingly simple party piece.” larkhallbutchers.co.uk

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bacon pieces, the first course was soon being slurped up by his hungry guests, who clearly weren’t about to stand on ceremony (and yes, I count myself among that number).

“This is what I’d ideally cook on Christmas Day,” Michael tells us, over the roasted suckling pig, which had been resting since we arrived. He brings a tray of crisp roast potatoes out from the oven and piles them up next to the pig on a large wooden board. Alongside this show-stopping display, which Pete and I carry to the table (exchanging looks to acknowledge our mutual terror at the thought of dropping it), is a bowl piled high with colourful veg – rich, al dente leaves of bubbly green cavolo nero, vibrant orange carrots cooked with anise, and braised red cabbage with apple. Pete gets to work carving the pig while passing round shards of its brittle golden skin. The meat is juicy and tender, falling away in thick, moist flakes. Plates – and glasses – full, everyone falls predictably silent as they set to work on unloading both.

A pear tart – with a lovely thin pastry case and soft hunks of fruit – and a cheese board (Pete also brought cave-aged Cheddar from Wookey Hole) later, we were ready to roll (literally, we were spherical by this point). It was back to Crumbs HQ with us, to tell everyone we’d left behind what an awful time we’d had and how there really was no reason to be envious. No, they didn’t believe us either.

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Christmas at

Christmas Party Menu

New Year’s Eve

Get into the festive spirit and join us for your Christmas celebrations.

Enjoy the tastes of Christmas with our Party Menu.

2 courses £24 – 3 courses £29.50

Champagne Reception Canapes – Five Course Dinner Midnight Fireworks

The Wheatsheaf, Combe Hay, Bath BA2 7EG 01225 833504 info@wheatsheafcombehay.com www.wheatsheafcombehay.com

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MICHAEL’S BEST ROAST POTATOES “To save time and be prepared on Christmas Day,” says Michael Holloway of Wild Fork West, “you can peel and chop your potatoes up to two days beforehand, then store, submerged in water, in the fridge.

“I use olive oil to keep these roasties veganfriendly, but duck fat and dripping are delicious alternatives. Aromatics like garlic, lemon and rosemary can also be added at the roasting stage, if you wish.”

SERVES 4-6 1½ kg floury potatoes (ideally Maris Pipers or King Edwards) sea salt 200ml extra virgin olive oil 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

2 Peel and cut the potatoes to about the size of an egg – don’t cut them too small or your roasties may fall apart before achieving crunchy perfection. Rinse in cold water.

3 Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water and salt well. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft but not falling apart.

4 Meanwhile, preheat the roasting tin in the oven. (The tin should be large enough to allow the potatoes to be spread in a single layer without over-crowding – two smaller tins may be preferable.) Once hot, add the oil and return to the oven.

5 Drain the potatoes from the hot water. Leave to cool and steam in a colander for a few minutes. Then return them to the pan and shake to roughen the edges. Don’t worry if a few potatoes crumble a bit at this stage – they will become gloriously crunchy.

6 Once the tin(s) and oil are hot – but not smoking – sit them on the hob, with a low flame underneath. Gently add the potatoes and turn them to coat all over in the fat, then leave each with its largest flat side face down. Salt liberally.

7 Roast for 30 minutes without turning. Once they have achieved a crusty browned face, flip them and roast for another 20-25 minutes before inspecting further. You should have a few small, broken down bits and some larger pieces. They should all be crunchy and golden. If not, turn again and continue roasting.

8 When they’re ready, drain off the remaining oil and serve hot in a warmed dish, seasoning again if you wish. wildforkwest.co.uk

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CHRISTMAS CELEBRATIONS 2018 Christmas at Ston Easton Park is a feast for all the senses. Whether you are in need of a quiet, relaxing break, seeking a venue to entertain friends and colleagues or in search of a decadent treat, our gift to you is the very finest cuisine along with attentive yet unobtrusive service, wrapped up in a stunning 18th century Palladian mansion.

Ston Easton Park could have been purpose built for Christmas. The beautifully proportioned rooms, open log fires and spectacular festive decorations and Christmas trees come together to create the perfect atmosphere for a traditional Christmas house party. Join us for a two or three day festive break, we’ll take all the strain out of the arrangements and provide you with the relaxing escape you deserve.

VOUCHERS ARE AVAILABLE THROUGH OUR WEBSITE OR DIRECTLY. AN IDEAL CHRISTMAS GIFT!

CHRISTMAS LUNCHES

BLACK TIE SHARED CHRISTMAS PARTY

For parties of 9 people or more we will be serving our 3 Course festive Lunch menu starting from £32.00 or Dinner from £37.50 per person in the Sorrel Restaurant.

From 1st to 23rd December

Are you planning the perfect way to celebrate Christmas with your family, friends or work colleagues?

Perfect for small office parties.

Dates available £70.00 per person

Exclusive use Christmas Party dates also available

25% OFF

AFTERNOON TEA Including Vegan Afternoon Tea for one.

See website for details.

Ston Easton, Nr Bath, Somerset BA3 4DF To book, call 01761 241631 or email reception@stoneaston.co.uk

www.stoneaston.co.uk

Best Italian 2012/13/14/15 Best breakfast 2012/13/14 Best front of house 2013 Best breakfast 2018 Highly Commended - Best Italian 2018

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£23.50 FOR THREE COURSES £18.50 FOR TWO COURSES PRE-BOOKED CRACKERS INCLUDED!

STARTERS

Celeriac soup with toasted hazelnuts & a truffle oil drizzle, with crusty bread (v) Ham hock terrine with toasted malt loaf & spiced apple chutney Warm beetroot & mushroom salad on toasted rye bread (v)

MAIN COURSES Book your Christmas meal now at

The Catherine Wheel Marshfield, Bath SN14 8LR

01225 892220 roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk

New Year's Eve EVE Party Sunday 30th December – 8pm to 1am with Bath based 80s party band 'Rubix Groove’.

Prizes for best fancy dress

Roast turkey with all the festive trimmings Cod with a citrus crust and a warm quinoa, edamame & tarragon salad (gf) Winter greens & coconut Dahl with naan and coconut yogurt raita (v,gf,df) Most mains served with roast potatoes & seasonal vegetables

PUDDINGS Traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce Clementine & almond cake with cream & clementine syrup (gf) Pear poached in red wine with toasted pistachios (gf,df) Cheese with chutney & savoury biscuits £6.50

Available from Friday 30th November to Sunday 30th December (excl 25 & 26 Dec)

v = vegetarian / gf = prepared using no gluten containing ingredients / df = dairy free Other allergy options available – please ask and we will try to accommodate any requests.

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The Want List LET THE FESTIVE FEELS FLOW WITH THESE CHRISTMAS BUYS ...

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1. Sophie Conran Christmas Espresso Cup and Saucer, £8.75 Get your hands on this festive espresso set by British designer Sophie Conran for a bargain price (the RRP is £12.50) at Kilver Court in Shepton Mallet; kilvercourt.com 2. Rice Melamine Dessert Plate, £4.50 The only thing more festive to eat Christmas cheese off than this plate is surely Rudolf’s very own red nose. And we doubt he’s available. Find it at Fig 1 in Bristol; fig1.co.uk 3. Sara Miller Penguin Apron, £26 Don this festive apron, turn the Christmas tunes up in the kitchen and get ready to tackle that turkey (there are matching oven gloves, too). From The Pod Company in Bristol; thepodcompany.co.uk 4. Christmas Donkey Jug (Small), £15.99 We’ll have our brandy cream from this bone china jug illustrated with a donkey wearing a Santa hat, please. Find it at Vinegar Hill in Bath and Bristol; vinegarhill.co.uk 5. Handmade Cracker Company Crackers, £39.60 Snap these gorgeous crackers, made (by hand, obvs) in Bristol, and you’ll find a gold paper hat, joke and origami (other fillings are available too). Buy online; thehandmadecrackercompany.co.uk

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TRADITIONAL FISH AND CHIPS SHOP WITH A MODERN TOUCH Our trained chefs believe batter should be light and crunchy, curry sauce should be homemade and mushy peas must be tasty.

We like our potatoes cooked to the highest standard and serve our fish just right. Come in and treat your Reel Soul.

- ONLY BIODEGRADABLE AND RECYCLABLE PACKAGING - SUSTAINABLY CAUGHT FISH - GLUTEN-FREE BATTER - FRIENDLY STAFF

Reel Soul Ltd, 4A Gloucester Road, Bristol, BS7 8AE info@reelsoul.co.uk – www.reelsoul.co.uk Mon–Thu 12:15–15:00 / 17:00–21:30 Fri–Sat 12:15–15:00 / 17:00–22:30 Sunday evening only

reelsoulfish reelsoulbristol

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NEW FOR BATH GREAT NEWS FOR LOVERS OF FRANCE, ORGANIC, NATURAL CUISINE AND ARTISANAL STYLE! The team have chosen Bath to launch their new concept store and bistro, Comptoir+Cuisine, that will bring all that is good and delicious about French food and products under one roof.

Born out of the same core values as Champagne+Fromage, the team will source the best food, drink and ingredients from France, as well as complimentary products, such as kitchenware, utensils, furnishings and homeware.

Venture down to the new basement lounge and you will ďŹ nd Champagne+Fromage, a unique bar that pairs a large exclusive selection of more than 50 artisan produced Grower Champagnes.

Comptoir+Cuisine & Champagne+Fromage 5 George Street, Bath, BA1 2EH www.comptoirpluscuisine.com | info@comptoirpluscuisine.com www.champagneplusfromage.co.uk | bath@champagneplusfromage.co.uk comptoir_cuisine

champfromage

Mon : Closed | Tue - Thu: 10:00 - 23:00 | Fri 10:00 - 01:00 | Sun 11:00 - 21:00

Join us for

Christmas 3-course menu from £28 per person Our Christmas menu is served from Friday 23rd November up to and including Monday 24th December and is available Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner.

Book a party of 12 or more and we will treat the organiserto a gift card to the value of £25 to be spent in the New Year at any OHH pub.

Bear & Swan

13 South Parade, Chew Magna, Somerset, BS40 8PR 01275 331100 | thebearandswan@ohhcompany.co.uk

The Old House at Home

Burton, Near Castle Combe, Wiltshire, SN14 7LT 01454 218227 | theoldhouseathome@ohhcompany.co.uk

The Northey Arms

SMOKE • BBQ • GRILL CUSTOM MADE, BUILT TO ORDER, VERSATILE COOKING BEASTS. To find out more information or to place an order visit bristoldrumsmokers.co.uk or call on 07970325352

Bath Road, Box, Wiltshire, SN13 8AE 01225 742333 | thenorthey@ohhcompany.co.uk

The Rising Sun

91 West Town Road, Backwell, North Somerset, BS48 3BH 01275 462215 | therisingsun@ohhcompany.co.uk

MA INs

TOP CULINARY CAUSES, INSIDER KNOWLEDGE AND FOOD PIONEERs

Noya Pawlyn of Noya’s Kitchen was the recipient of one of those handsome Crumbs Awards trophies

HIGHLIGHTS

TROPHY LIFE

GET THE GOSS FROM THIS YEAR'S CRUMBS AWARDS PAGE 63

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ENTRIES CAME IN THEIR HUNDREDS TO THIS YEAR’S CRUMBS AWARDS – HONESTLY, WE WERE FLOODED – AND IT WAS MUCH INVESTIGATION, CONVERSATION AND DELIBERATION THAT ALLOWED OUR JUDGES TO EVENTUALLY CROWN SOME SUPER-WORTHY CHAMPS

bar/pub THE GREENBANK The judges said: “This pub is truly at the heart of the community, offering an authentic experience alongside a progressive menu and buzzing events. A perfect local.”

Instead of an award-winning watering hole, this building in Easton could easily be flats right now. The local community, though, weren’t about to let their beloved boozer go down without a fight, and seeing how passionate the punters were, the Zazu’s Kitchen team decided they couldn’t not take it on.

“The Greenbank is certainly shaped by the community,” says general manager Gary Regis. “We want to be the kind of pub you’d want at the end of your street – and what this means differs, of course, from location to location.”

The pub’s diary is chocca with events – ranging from regular book clubs to baby yoga and vegan board game nights – while the pumps champion great local brewers, and the kitchen serves a varied, inclusive menu. thegreenbankbristol.co.uk

chef HYWEL JONES The judges said: “Hywel provides consistent high quality at Lucknam Park. He is extremely supportive and repeatedly volunteers his culinary skills to nurture the next generation of chefs.”

Having just retained his Michelin star for the 14th year in a row

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(show off, much?), Lucknam Park’s executive chef and esteemed mentor to young pros (such as MasterChef: The Professionals star Elly Wentworth, among others) is a deserving first champ of this new category.

It was a last-minute change of heart that saw Hywel enrol at catering college instead of the Navy, and he went on to be mentored by the likes of Marco Pierre White and Harry Murray.

“I’ve realised that it’s my time to give something back to the next generation,” he says. “These days I get as much satisfaction, if not more, from seeing young chefs in my brigade develop as I do seeing the hotel win accolades for the food we serve.” lucknampark.co.uk

WINNER OF WINNERS!

THE BRISTOL LOAF The judges said: “The Bristol Loaf is a truly inspirational business.

It’s a compelling proposition with a passionate, hard-working team.

Well-deserved overall winners.”

You’ll find Bristol Loaf’s organic bakes not only in its cool Redfield Café, but in a generous smattering of venues across the city, too. Their bread is made using traditional, slow-fermentation methods in the open kitchen on site, where customers can peer in as they slurp their coffee – or even a glass of natural wine.

The bakery – the first in Bristol to gain the Soil Association’s organic certification for some of its loaves – is the creation of Alex Collier and Gary Derham, and opened in June 2017. So popular is it that it has already expanded once, and will be growing further come the spring.

The team’s success seems to be thanks not only to their range of expertly handmade loaves, pastries, cakes and savouries, and the strong ethical values they’re created with, but also the focus on hospitality, and the value this place can bring to the community.

“I am fascinated by the concept of hospitality in its most basic form,” says Gary. “The team are genuinely happy and dedicated in their craft. Laughter is constantly bubbling out from the kitchens, and such positivity is genuinely infectious. I love seeing the look on people’s faces when they first enter The Bristol Loaf. It’s a joy!” thebristolloaf.co.uk

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cer drinks produ LOST AND GROUNDED The judges said: “Seriously passionate about their product. This offering is thoughtful, distinctive and works hard to make its mark on a highly competitive market.”

They began homebrewing in their Melbourne kitchen two decades ago, and are now responsible for the region’s best-known craft lager, their flagship Keller Pils. Not afraid to tread a path that many craft breweries steer clear of, co-founders Annie Clements and Alex Troncoso have created a nationally stocked product that gives lager drinkers a new and exciting option, both at the pumps and at home.

“We would like to think that our distinct point of difference in a very crowded beer market helped us to stand out to the judges,” says Annie.

“We focus on making an essentially very simple beer into something delicious and magnificent, with depth of character. This focus on lager making is very different to many other brewers, who are highly focused on other beer styles.” lostandgrounded.co.uk

casual dining THE SCALLOP SHELL The judges said: “This is the go-to place for casual dining. The staff are passionate and knowledgeable, producing consistently great food. It’s made a real splash on the scene!”

The team at this popular fish and chip restaurant source their fish with conscience and care, and create a welcoming, inclusive atmosphere.

“When people come into the restaurant, I put myself on that table,” says chef and owner Garry Rosser, who’s been in the trade for three decades. “What drives me and gets me excited is how I would feel if I was the customer – that makes me want to produce the very best food I can, in order to make that person happy.

“I’ve always loved the concept of traditional English heritage, childhood nostalgia and the honesty of the English dish. If it makes them happy, it makes me really happy too.”

Having added a first-floor dining area, new bar and outdoor terrace in 2017 and ’18, this Bath mainstay is looking stronger than ever. thescallopshell.co.uk

ol cookery scho SQUARE FOOD FOUNDATION The judges said: “This is how community cooking from grassroots should be. Its aims are admirable, a pioneering cookery school for all.”

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Bristol food hero Barny Haughton dreamed up the concept for this cookery school after teaching a group of children to make soup and bread in the kitchen above his then-restaurant. Fast-forward to 2018, and Square Food – still led by Barny and now a registered charity – teaches more than 700 people every year with an inclusive programme of cookery courses and workshops.

“We believe that cooking changes lives,” Square Food’s Claire Allen tells us. “We want to provide people with the knowledge, skills and confidence that they need to eat and live well. We use good food and cooking to address social challenges – including unemployment, social isolation and loneliness, addiction and homelessness. Whilst learning to cook might not address the root cause of these problems, it can provide a way out.” squarefoodfoundation.co.uk

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event BRISTOL FOOD CONNECTIONS The judges said: “There is diversity and sustainability at the heart of this project that brings people together so well. It’s special and uniquely Bristol, something that we can all be proud of.”

This food festival’s ambition goes far beyond the handful of days that it runs for each year; its purpose is to spark meaningful and ongoing change in the community. “It brings people together to celebrate, talk and debate,” says project coordinator Laura Humphreys. “The opportunities are endless.”

This year, the festival took a new form – it was a joint effort between the team and city residents themselves, who conceived the events and helped curate the packed-out programme. “Activities took place in most postcodes of the city, and people who might not usually be able to run an event got the chance to. We’ve learnt a lot to put into action for next year; we really want to continue shining a light on all the amazing food activity happening around the city.” bristolfoodconnections.com

er food produc LUSCIOUS The judges said: “An excellent example of how local produce can expand to be a booming nationally recognised business. We expect great things for Luscious.”

One of the newest businesses among our collection of winners, this Soil Association-approved organic ice cream producer, set on a farm in Neston, is little over a year old.

“We started the company with a mission to create not only a delicious, award-winning product but also a sustainable brand and business that will create local employment and build sales of ethical and organic products,” co-founder Kate Clark tells us.

These velvety ice creams come in a variety of natural-tasting flavours and are already being stocked by Daylesford Organics. Keep your eye out for a new range of fresh custards made, like that ice cream, with Jersey milk and Ivy House cream. lusciousorganics.co.uk

foodie pub THE INN AT FRESHFORD The judges said: “Awesome food, great atmosphere and amazing garden. Transformed under its new owners, it cleverly combines a traditional country pub with a stylish twist.”

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The Ideal Trade Co took on this pub – just outside Bath, on the edge of the River Frome – just two years ago. Carrying on the 16th-century inn’s pub tradition and keeping it at the heart of the community was a real priority for the team, who have managed to do just that, all while giving the space a contemporary edge.

It might be, at its core, a local watering hole, but the team are serious about their food offering, getting hold of great seasonal ingredients from local suppliers, and using them in novel ways. They even have their own smokehouse. This offering is key to the pub’s success, and is something that the team are looking to continue to develop over the coming year. theinnatfreshford.com

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vices industry ser CLIFTON WINE SCHOOL

The judges said: “Terrific year, great testimonials and students winning international recognition. Highly valuable to the industry, this offering is provided with real expertise.”

Demystifying the complex world of wine is the name of the game for Clifton Wine School founder, Ruth Wiles. Her courses help restaurant teams develop the knowledge and understanding they need to curate great wine lists, enhance their food offering, and make informed recommendations.

“I love igniting interest in my students. It’s extremely satisfying to watch them progress, hearing them talk about wine with real confidence,” says Ruth. “Also, it’s great to go into restaurants and bars in Bristol and Bath knowing that they care enough about their service to ensure their team deliver at such a high level. Those places always have the best wine lists!” cliftonwineschool.com

initiative FARE SHARE SOUTH WEST

The judges said: “Fare Share is having a staggering impact, spearheading the way to tackle food waste and food poverty.

We’re impressed at how it’s constantly innovating.”

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Just think of what could be made possible if the dots could be joined between two of the food landscape’s biggest issues – food waste and food poverty. Well, that’s what this team aim to do, distributing surplus food to 170 organisations – from school holiday projects to homeless charities and elderly people’s lunch clubs.

“There’s a vibrant food scene in Bristol, but there’s also a huge food poverty issue, which is so often a hidden part of our city’s identity,” points out Phoebe Ruxton. “An estimated 8.4 million people are living in food poverty in the UK, and a third of our food is wasted. People are now waking up to the reality and scale of food poverty – it’s something that can happen to anyone.” faresharesouthwest.org.uk

interiors kitchens and BATH BESPOKE

The judges said: “A clever independent making a big impact. Traditional, sustainable and eco-friendly with beautiful results – what’s not to love?”

Joiner James Etheridge and cabinetmaker Tom Jones Marquez set up this award-winning interiors business, which started out life housed in a garage. Now, having moved to a much larger space – a former agricultural building at Hartley Farm – and taken on lots of staff, business is really booming.

From the materials they choose to the bespoke design and fitting, this team are obsessive about it all and, when asked, said they think it must be their meticulous attention to detail that clinched them the award. Hoping to continue their success and open a new showroom soon, their year ahead is sure looking promising. bathbespoke.co.uk

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restaurant MENU GORDON JONES The judges said: “A remarkable, singular and exciting dining experience that captivates the senses and fulfills all its intentions fabulously. Each dish is absolutely outstanding.”

Menu Gordon Jones serves a tasting menu, but not as you know it.

From the secret menu to the soundtrack you listen to as you tuck in, every part of the experience here combines to create a wholly individual sum – and one that is infused with chef Gordon’s own distinctive character.

Refined, exciting dishes show influences from around the globe and play with textures and temperatures. They’re served in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere where the staff chat and laugh with customers, whose feet tap to the cool Britpop-style playlist. Wine matches are imaginative and unobvious, too. This is a place to really test the theory that you ‘don’t like surprises.’ menugordonjones.co.uk

newcomer NOYA’S KITCHEN The judges said: “Noya’s unique personal charm, passion and charisma shine through. It’s a high-energy business and we look forward to seeing what the future holds.”

Noya Pawlyn began hosting pop up Vietnamese dinners in Bear Flat five years ago, and holding cookery classes in her Bath home. Finally, at the end of 2017, she opened her first restaurant, where she continues those supper clubs and classes, and also cooks lunch services.

“I love to cook for my friends and family, so Noya’s Kitchen is an extension of that,” Noya tells us. “It’s my Vietnamese home cooking with some very personal touches and tweaks.”

In fact, it’s all very personal here, from the small team to the way Noya introduces the menus herself in the evenings, and even the family photos hanging on the wall. Her exciting, colourful food and inviting restaurant are comforting in all senses of the word. noyaskitchen.co.uk

retailer BROCKLEY STORES The judges said: “Brockley Stores has exploded onto the scene with great passion and really reinvented the convenience store.

Honest and ambitious, with exciting prospects.”

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This roadside grocery shop combines fresh, local, artisanal food and drink with real shopper convenience – think a huge variety of produce, ingredients and ready-to-eat food, paired with accommodating opening hours.

There has been some form of shop on the site for around a century, and it was taken over by Rob Hagen just two years ago. “I’d spent a decade working for and advising big international retail companies on what they should sell – but it didn’t feel right,” he says. “The ethics and quality were disappearing from food across the country and I wanted to make a change. So it hit me that the answer was to create a shop with real integrity, awesome quality, low food miles, high ethical standards, a heart – and some fun!” brockleystores.co.uk

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y tech revolutionar FRESH RANGE The judges said: “Fresh Range is a crucial disruptor in our industry right now. Its offering is unique, appealing and, most importantly, delivers quality and value to customers.”

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Fresh Range is an online grocery shop that allows customers to buy from small, local producers and have everything delivered to their front door (or even into their fridge). It was the idea of Rich Osborn, who founded the company in 2014, to link customers with top-quality food and drink and develop food security.

“When I look at who was judging the Crumbs Awards and who else was in the running, I am proud, very proud, to have been recognised,” says Rich. “What the Fresh Range technical team have delivered these past few years is nothing short of amazing.” fresh-range.com

supplier BILLINGS AND BRIGGS The judges said: “Rightly renowned for being brilliant to work with, their high-quality and ethical values are at the core of this brave, innovative offering.”

P H OTO S BY CA RO L IN E A L L E N

Specialising in natural, organic and biodynamic wine enables these guys to support sustainable farms, limit their impact on the environment, and connect customers with some of the best-quality vino around. Much of the wine these guys deal in comes in bag-in-box form, meaning they can keep prices low and accessibility high, too.

“We also try to remove some of the snobbery that can surround wine,” says co-director, Lousie Briggs, who founded the company with husband Dan. “You won’t ever hear us describe a wine as ‘like the back seat of an Aston Martin’ (it took me three days to stop rolling my eyes at that one). It tastes like what you think it tastes like; don’t feel like it’s a test you have to pass.” billingsandbriggs.co.uk

trader THE LITTLE TAQUERO The judges said: “Their hard work and dedication is really paying off with word spreading fast about their fresh, authentic Mexican and Central American street food.”

Chris and Kerry Hall developed a love of Central American food while working in the travel industry, but were unimpressed with the UK’s take on it. Cue the purchase and conversion of a former French prison van (natch) into a taco truck.

Having imported a tortilla machine from Mexico, these guys later launched the first tortilleria in the South West: fresh and authentic corn tortillas had always been key for their tacos.

“The tortilleria is already growing faster than we could have hoped, so there should be fresh, gluten-free, soft corn tortillas in more shops for people to use at home,” says Chris.

You can catch this quirky food van at the Harbourside Market in Bristol, or even hire it for your own event. thelittletaquero.co.uk

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We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting.

Clifton’s Independent Greengrocer

Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome.

PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION

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RINd faiTh THE CHEESES

DORSET BLUE VINNY Circa £4/200g In the ’80s, Michael Davies happened upon a 300-year-old local Dorset cheese recipe and resurrected this once-prolific style. Eventually, he secured a Protected Geographical Indication for it and, as such, is still the only producer of it to this day.

Firm and crumbly, this blue cheese – winner of Best Blue and The People’s Choice at the recent Great British Cheese Awards – has a poke of salty tang, albeit with an intensity that’s a notch or two below what you might usually expect. Given the salty smack of it, a sweet chutney is going to work a dream alongside, as are figs and honey. Use any (unlikely) leftovers in winter risottos or, as we’ve been doing, by crumbling on top of warming leek and potato soup.

Crumbs editor JESS CARTER says, “The lower intensity of this blue, compared to some others, means it’s neither too sharp or overwhelming, and that you can taste the subtle differences in each mouthful.”

EXTRA MATURE CLOTHBOUND CHEDDAR £5/200g Mary Quicke reps the 14th generation of her family to work on their farm, and has an MBE for her efforts in both farming and cheesemaking. The latter they’ve been at since the ’70s, using milk from their 600-strong herd of specially-bred, pasture-grazed dairy cows.

The truckles of Cheddar are turned every 10 days throughout the 18-month ageing process to ensure an even texture. Punchy but well-balanced, it’s got a tang of maturity and rich, complex flavour.

Aside from the cheese board, it’ll bring a new dimension to herby pesto and deliver a kick to a soufflé. We’ve got our eye on any leftovers for a leek and bacon mac ’n’ cheese with attitude, too...

Crumbs editor JESS CARTER says, “The even, melting consistency allows you to sink your teeth into this cheese like butter, while its punch of maturity leaves an almost tingly feeling in the mouth.”

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GODDESS £8.95/200g Goddess is a semi-soft, washedrind cheese from Blur bassistturned-cheesemaker, Alex James.

Guernsey cow’s milk is used here, making for an indulgently rich cheese, and the rind is washed in Temperley Somerset Cider Brandy (made near Wincanton).

So, why are we listing a cheese from an Oxfordshire maker in this local round-up? Because it’s actually produced right here in Somerset, by the guys at White Lake Cheeses (whom we’ll hear more of soon).

It’s an award winner, having picked up accolades at the Great British Cheese Awards and the World Cheese Awards, and is made and packaged in 200g rounds.

MATT MARCH SMITH from Pong Cheese says, “Goddess is rich and creamy in flavour with the soft interior of a mature Epoisses. Its orange, bumpy rind and pungent aroma make it a must for the cheese board this Christmas.”

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GORWYDD CAERPHILLY £7.75/250g Yep, you’re right: this does sound like a Welsh number. So, what’s it doing among all these South West cheeses, then? Well, the makers actually moved production a few years ago from Wales to just outside Weston-super-Mare.

What’s more, this recipe (which is about 100 years old) is, in fact, native to Somerset.

Cut yourself a chunk (’cause that’s why we’re here, right?) and you’ll see that it looks smooth, with a slightly crumbly middle, sandwiched by yellow, creamy-looking layers at the top and bottom. It’s fresh tasting at its pale core, while the darker, creamer outer edges are a spot richer, and more savoury. (And it’s pronounced ‘gor-with’, if you want to ask your local cheese shop for it without tripping over your tongue.)

DAVID CULLEN at Paxton and Whitfield in Bath says, “Fresh, light and subtle in flavour, this is a lovely local cheese with a great story.”

LET’S GET ONE THING STRAIGHT: CHEESE IS FOR LIFE, NOT JUST FOR CHRISTMAS. THAT SAID, THERE IS NO MORE IMPORTANT TIME THAN YULETIDE FOR YOUR FROMAGE GAME TO BE ON POINT. SO, WE’RE BRINGING YOU THE 411 ON SOME OF THE SOUTH WEST’S BEST FORMS OF DAIRY AND HOW TO SERVE THEM, WITH SOME HELP FROM THE PROS IN THE KNOW...

LAMB LEER from £8.50/300g Lamb Leer, like all of Homewood’s cheeses, is the product of ewe’s milk. Sheep produce less milk than cows or goats, but said milk is far richer and contains lots more solids than alternatives from other animals – making it ideal for this maker’s endeavours.

Inside the bloomy rind is a soft and creamy sheep’s cheese with a slightly crumbly texture. Subtly sweet, its flavours develop in the mouth. This cheese can be eaten young for a firm texture and bright flavour, or left to mature (for up to eight weeks) if you’re after something richer and sweeter.

If it doesn’t all get snapped up from the cheese board, it’ll work well crumbled over roast squash and other warm salads this winter.

Crumbs editor JESS CARTER says, “A gentle tang gives way to a balance of earthy flavours, including a touch of mushroominess.”

MERRY WYFE £2.80/100g Bath Soft Cheese – most famous for their Bath Soft and Wyfe of Bath cheeses – makes entirely organic products using milk from its own cows. It all happens on Park Farm (in Kelston, just outside of Bath), where the same family have been working for three generations now.

The lucky ol’ Merry Wyfe is washed in cider every other day for four weeks – yup, hence the ‘Merry’ part – to make this champion organic cheese, as crowned at the British Cheese Awards 2018. Said cider is made on-site by Graham Padfield from organic apples – harvested, again, on the farm. The resulting cheese has a golden orange rind and rich, creamy, dense texture.

Crumbs editor JESS CARTER says, “The sunny orange colour of the sticky rind hints towards the bold, well-balanced flavour of this cheese, which also has a lovely smooth, dense texture. It’s definitely become a new fave.”

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RENEGADE MONK £9.50/220g Made from pasteurised cow’s milk, this cheese is modern in terms of both age and attitude.

Marcus Fergusson left his job in London three years ago to turn his attention to a 22-acre smallholding in Somerset – Feltham’s Farm. This cheese was released in February 2017 and immediately made a great impression, picking up awards rather swiftly.

Marcus uses organic milk from a local farm to create this cheese in very small batches. It has a washed rind – ale from Frome’s Milk Street Brewery is the liquid of choice – and blue cultures are added, although this is to help develop the flavour as opposed to add veins.

Nope, there’s no visible blue in this fella, just perhaps a hint of the style in its punchy flavour.

Tor £7.50/200g White Lake Cheese makes a whole range of award-winning products, using milk from cows, goats and sheep. Based in Pylle, Somerset, it’s within spitting distance of the Glastonbury Festival fields, and this creation is named after the nearby Tor. It’s made from the milk of the goats who share Bagborough Farm with the cheesemaking outfit. They’re fed a special diet to ensure they produce the optimum milk for cheesemaking and are free to roam around.

This is a semi-soft, ash-coated, unpasteurised goat’s cheese, which comes in a distinctive pyramid shape. It’s matured for just a handful of weeks, meaning it has a fresh flavour that’s zesty, bright and citric, with a gentle touch of saltiness.

RUTH RASKIN at The Fine Cheese Company says‚ “This is a bold and assertive cheese, but the pungency is balanced by a pleasant sweetness, a slightly more floral taste than other washed rind cheeses, and a very subtle blue undertone.”

ROSIE MORGAN from The Bristol Cheesemonger says‚ “This is great for a lighter option on the cheeseboard, especially at Christmas when you’re eating a lot of heavy food.”

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M A I N S

f you read Dickens’ famous festive novella A Christmas Carol (or watch the 1992 Muppet-infused film incarnation) to get in the mood each December, you’ll know that Michael Caine blames his vision of the chain-draped, fuzzy-faced Marley brothers (it’s clear which version we’re best acquainted with, then) on “a crumb of cheese.” But despite what we’re told about this stuff giving us nightmares, we’ll be tucking into that C-Eve cheese board without fear of being visited by supernatural puppets in our sleep (we’re more likely to have sweet dairy-focused dreams than anything else). What we’re holey (ahem) more concerned about, is what should be on said board.

Cheese comes in many guises – tastes and textures vary hugely, even within the South West-made varieties – but they can be grouped without too much fuss into a handful of key styles.

“Hard cheese is perhaps the best-known style, owing to its great variety and versatility,” says Tom Thayer, from the Fine Cheese Co. “Around the world, you will encounter versions like silky sweet Gruyère from Switzerland, creamy Manchego from Spain and, of course, tangy Cheddar from England.

“They’re made by adding rennet and starter cultures to milk until the milk sets. Then it is cut, separating the curds and whey. The milk is then heated, causing the whey to rise to the top of the vat where it is drawn off, and the remaining curds are cut further, and tightly pressed to expel yet more whey.

“The maturation time for hard cheeses is the longest – cheeses like Cheddar can take anywhere between 12-18 months, but ones such as Parmesan can take up to three years, and are sometimes even stored in Italian bank vaults as collateral.”

Now there’s a heist worth working on. (NB: definitely not condoning bank robbery here, people.)

“Then there are blue cheeses. Again, you can encounter great variety in styles around the world: France’s Roquefort is sharp and spicy, Italy’s Gorgonzola Dolce is rich and creamy, and England’s Christmas classic, Stilton, has a deep, powerful and lingering flavour.

“To make them, a culture called Penicillium roqueforti is added to the milk, which will, in time, develop the blue veining. To aid the culture, the curds are not pressed as tightly as in hard cheeses and, once it’s set in a mould and has matured for a few days, the

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M A I N S

THE CHEESE GLOSSARY: BY PAUL THOMAS RENNET This is an enzyme that was traditionally derived from one of the stomach compartments of the offspring of a milking animal. It causes a change to the protein in the milk, setting it into a gel, which enables the separation of the solids from some of the liquid. There are vegetarian alternatives to animal rennet as well as some plant-based coagulants, which have a similar function in setting the curd.

RIND The rind is the outer surface of the cheese. Mouldy rinds and washed rinds contain populations of yeasts, moulds or bacteria which release enzymes and flavour compounds which influence the flavour development of the cheese. There are also natural rinds, such as those you’ll find on some types of Caerphilly or cloth-bound Cheddar, or cheeses that are coated in a plastic or wax, such as Gouda.

STARTER CULTURE Starter cultures are mixtures of lactic acid bacteria, which are used to acidify the milk or curd. They are usually added as a commercially available powder, although were first propagated from the natural fermentation of raw milk. This, in layman’s terms, is made rather like preparing a sourdough starter.

Paul Thomas has cheese-making courses at River Cottage on 27 Jan and 17 Feb; academyofcheese.org

cheesemakers will pierce the surface of the cheese. This allows for oxygen to react with the starter culture, which aids the development of blue veining along the lines where the cheese was pierced.

“Finally, soft mould-ripened cheeses range from mild, creamy and delicate to more powerful and peppery creations. These cheeses are not pressed – instead, the whey drains from the curd naturally once they have been set into moulds. They are handled far more gently than other cheeses, with an emphasis on less intervention. Much of the flavour comes from the addition of the culture of Penicillium candidum – which leads to the cheese developing a soft white coat that encases the delicate and gooey interior.”

Cheese has been made in Britain for centuries, and has a developed a strong link to the West Country in that time. Dairy technologist and general cheese guru Paul Thomas regularly teaches cheesemaking at River Cottage, and is properly clued up on its pungent history.

“By the 18th century, some well-known varieties were being produced in the British Isles, including Gloucester, Cheshire, Stilton and the almost forgotten Wiltshire cheese,” he says.

“Joseph Harding, the ‘father of Cheddar cheese’ is credited with making improvements to the recipe from his farm in Somerset,

resulting in the popularity of Cheddar internationally. Following a decline after the Second World War, interest in farmhouse and artisan cheesemaking has thrived again in the UK, with high-quality cheeses being made by small businesses in the South West and around the rest of the country.”

d

on’t know about you, but we’re itching to get stocked up right about now. But once we’ve chosen our cheeses, how should we store them, and how long will they keep?

“Shelf life differs between makers and styles – soft and fresh cheeses usually have the shortest window,” explains Rosie Morgan, founder of The Bristol Cheesemonger. “And, as cheese is constantly maturing, you can’t necessarily extend its life by not opening it. If someone comes into the shop for cheese that isn’t to be eaten immediately, it’s possible to pick out something that’s a bit younger, so that it will be mature for when they want to eat it. Or, of course, lots of people order in advance to pick up nearer to Christmas.

“In terms of storage, cheese is always best kept in wax paper. As it goes through its natural maturation, it needs to regulate itself

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M A I N S

THE DRINKS When you think cheese, you think wine, right? And understandably; there’s endless culinary contentment to be had with a cheese board and a bottle of a decent grape-based refreshment. That in mind, we spoke to Yannick Loué and Ele Braund – the pair behind Bath wine bar and merchant Le Vignoble – about how to choose the best vino to wash all that dairy down with.

“There’s no better combination than cheese and wine,” says Ele. “Whether you opt for a nutty hard cheese or the most pungent, soft cheese, there is a wine to complement each perfectly. And we’re not just talking red wine and port either; some of the best pairings can be white wines – and dessert wines.

“Following one simple rule can lead to many successful matches, and that is to aim for a balance between wine and cheese – one must not overpower the other. Don’t be afraid to try something new; some of the best matches happen when we think outside the box...”

YANNICK’S TOP MATCHES Soft and creamy cheese: Choose a buttery white burgundy – a really creamy wine will match the texture of the cheese.

Blue cheese: My choice will be a sweet sherry such as a Pedro Ximenez; the sweetness will soften the strength of the cheese.

Nutty cheese: Perfect with an oaky white wine; the oak brings similar flavours which will marry the combination together.

Strong and pungent cheese: A port is a great choice, strong with nice red fruit, and the slight sweetness will help to calm the pungent notes.

Goat’s cheese: A late-harvest Chenin Blanc would be really interesting with a strong goat’s cheese, and for milder versions I would choose an old vine variety.

and breathe, for want of a better word, and wax paper allows it to do this, while cling film stifles it.

“Keep it in the fridge, towards the back or in the veg drawer. These parts usually have the coolest and most consistent temperatures; fluctuations of temperature really inhibit cheese, so when you’re opening the fridge lots (which we all do over Christmas), you don’t want it to detriment the cheese.

“You can freeze it, but you have to be careful – it will affect different styles in different ways. Freezing cheese kills the flora bacteria in it, so it needs to be properly mature before you put in the freezer, as it won’t be able to continue the ageing process afterwards. Freezing can really change the consistency, too – I’d say it’s best to check with the supplier if that’s what you’re planning.

“Last but not least, when it finally comes to eating your cheese, always remember to go and take it out of the fridge around an hour or so before you want to serve it – it really needs to come up to room temperature to be at its best.”

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If you fancy skipping the wine and going a little off-piste with your cheese board lubricants (you maverick, you), then Chris Scullion of Bath’s Independent Spirit has some top alternatives.

“Somerset is known for its cider. We have some of the best orchards in the world – and the cheese to match. Wyfe of Bath from the Bath Soft Cheese Co is rich and deliciously nutty; try it with a full-bodied scrumpy such as Honey’s Midford Cider. Unfiltered and uncarbonated with a decent bit of acidity, it pairs wonderfully with the cheese and creates a robust mouthfeel.

“Also, you may not naturally jump to gin to drink with cheese, but you would be surprised at how versatile these pairings can be; the vast range of gins and gin liqueurs available are as varied as the many types of cheese. Cotswolds Dry Gin has a rich body to hold the weight of tangy goat’s cheese, for instance. Its citrus notes and the pepperiness of the juniper work well to bring out creamy characteristics – just don’t drown it in tonic. And, if I may add, basil as a garnish for the gin just helps tie this winning combo together.

“Finally, we would be amiss if we didn’t mention whisky, wouldn’t we? Balancing the weight of a cheese with the body and style of a whisky is easier than you would think. Pair heavy, spicy and smoky whiskies with cheese that can take the strength of the single malt head on – such as Roquefort. Looking for something a little special?

Try the new Cotswolds Distillery Founders Choice single malt. Its strength will work well with cheeses that have a bit more bite and body, like a blue cheese that has enough of a musty characteristic to meld beautifully with the sweeter notes of this specialist cask.”

Visit the pros: Independent Spirit of Bath; independentspiritofbath.co.uk Le Vignoble, Bath; levignoble.co.uk Paxton and Whitfield, Bath; paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk The Bristol Cheesemonger; bristol-cheese.co.uk The Fine Cheese Co, Bath; finecheese.co.uk Pong Cheese, online; pongcheese.co.uk

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Visit us at the Bath Christmas Market

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The

Guildhall Delicatessen

Situated in Bath’s famous indoor market

We stock a wide range of locally produced vegan, vegetarian and meat based products as well as delicious cakes and Bath Buns. Ideal for lunches or an any time snack. Come and order you food and collect it when you need it. We can even cater for small business lunches.

Our range includes: Vegan, lamb or chicken samosas, veggie or meat pasties, bhajis, vegan or pork sausage rolls and veggie or pork scotch eggs. We also stock a range of speciality scotch eggs and pies. Why not add a Lovely juice drink, some Rose Farm preserves and chutneys or The Wiltshire Beekeeper’s honey to your shopping.

Open Mon - Sat, 9.30 - 17.00

8 Guildhall Market, Bath BA2 4AW • Tel: 01225 427195 email: guildhall-deli@hotmail.co.uk twitter: @GuildhallDeli

CAFE KITCHEN Welcome to our award-winning café - providing young people with special needs a unique opportunity to gain work experience and training.

We are working with the local community and employers to develop work experience opportunities after students have worked in 3 Cafe Kitchen.

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Variety of gifts for sale | Raffle | Children's crafts Open Monday to Friday 8am–4pm | Saturday 8am–12pm Available for private hire. Please call 01225 830377 or email lucy.beattie@threeways.co.uk Located @ 180 Frome Road, Odd Down, BA2 5RF. Limited parking available on site, full wheelchair and buggy access.

Tel: 07854239926 info@cliftonwineschool.com

A very warm welcome to Clifton Wine School!

We are a local wine school hosting events in Bristol and Bath.

Choose from our Cheese and Wine Matching night, a Fine Wine tasting, Wines of the World evening courses, Gin tasting, and so much more.

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AFTERS

FÉS NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CA FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM

HIGHLIGHTS

LITTON VICTORIES

SHERRY AND BRIGHT TAPAS AND FINO IN CLIFTON PAGE 90

HUNKERING DOWN

WARMING UP AT A COSY PUB IN ROWBERROW PAGE 93

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A DRIVE OUT TO THE MENDIPS IS WELL REWARDED PAGE 96

The Litton is a rural inn that’s been given a new lease of life – you’d never recognise it in its former guise...

A F T E R S

( T O P TA PA S )

BAR 44 Â FANCY SPENDING SOME QUALITY TIME WITH A DECENT BOTTLE OF SHERRY? DO IT HERE, OVER A SPREAD OF MODERN TAPAS, SAYS JESSICA CARTER

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Welsh bar-restaurant serving Spanish food and drink in Bristol? Yep, that’s Bar 44 in a (mildly confusing) nutshell. While brevity is often appreciated with the ever-quickening pace we live at, not to mention the demand for speedily digestible content, it’s not quite going to do the job here. Not only does that brief description simplify what this place is about, but it would also leave a lot of blank space on this here page. So, I’ll crack on with all the necessary details, and try to be just the right kind of economical with words.

The Bar 44 restaurant group was established in 2002 and is run by siblings Tom Morgan, Owen Morgan, and Natalie Isaac. The last 16 years have seen the trio add four more restaurants to their portfolio – a number that’s (perhaps wisely) modest in comparison to what some other restaurant groups have racked up in the same stretch of time – the most recent of which is this site in Clifton.

Owen has also become a big figure in the sherry world, being one of only a few certified sherry educators globally, and was voted Imbibe’s Restaurant Personality of the year for 2018. So, fellow sherry lovers, you can expect the fortified drinks game to be on point here.

The food, as with the drinks list, is firmly rooted in traditional Spanish tapas, but the chefs aren’t afraid to tinker with classic dishes and season them with a bit of the 21st century. Their confidence comes not only from experience (head chef Tom Maynard came from the Cardiff site) but also the notable quality of the ingredients they’re working with. For instance, the traditional snack of boquerones (£6) involved Barbate sardines as opposed to anchovies, the sharp vinegar marinade cutting through the melting texture of the fish, which come served doused in good olive oil with a peppering of fresh herbs and chopped olives. Smoky sobrasada (£3.20) was slathered on toast, its gentle heat accented by a drizzle of sweet honey (go on, try it washed down with a glass of the ambercoloured Alfonso Oloroso), and the well-seasoned tortilla (£6.20) with piquillo pepper and caramelised onion had a sunny yellow, gooey centre.

Citrus-cured sea bream (£7) was chopped into cubes and muddled with cucumber and avo, the dish backing up its pretty looks with a

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fresh, juicy mix of textures and flavours, and the bomba rice (£6), braised with chistorra (cured sausage) and jamón was a rich, hearty bowl, topped with shards of pork belly so crisp that they flirted with the boundaries of over-done.

Although it housed another restaurant before this one moved in, the Georgian building we spent our evening in was actually a bank back in the day (snooping downstairs I saw the huge vault door to prove it, too). Although covering some considerable square metreage, the main bar and restaurant area manages to still feel quite intimate, carefully separated into smaller spaces and booths, so – even though we were eating on an early Thursday evening with just a handful of other tables in – it didn’t feel empty or cavernous.

A room off to the left displays specially commissioned art as well as jamón hanging against a backdrop of vintage-look brick tiles.

Banquette seating, parquet flooring, wood panelling and touches of marble and distressed brass all whisper of old-school class.

As fancy as it looks, relaxed vibes prevail. Both times I’ve been here I’ve been served by assistant manager Millie (as had my dinner date, L, on her previous visit), who plays a massive part in making this restaurant experience sing. Forthcoming with informed recommendations for both food and sherry, should you ask for any, she knows this offering inside out.

A crema Catalana tart (£6) saw the silky set custard encased in a delicate thin pastry crust alongside a scoop of tangy orange curd sorbet, while the velvety homemade ice creams (£2.50 a scoop) are an ideal way to end a meal here, in my eyes. Small but precise, they hit the spot nicely– the PX Espresso Martini number is my number one, if you’re interested.

Sure, you might have caught a glimmer of dubiety if you’d taken the time to study my face when I first eyeballed Bristol’s Welsh tapas bar. But you didn’t, so that allows me to claim I knew all along that this place was going to be just as good as it is.

Bar 44, 18-20 Regent Street, Bristol BS8 4HG; 0333 344 4049; bar44.co.uk

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A F T E R S

(COSY PUBS)

THE SWAN INN ’TIS THE SEASON FOR LOG FIRES AND PIES, SAYS JESSICA CARTER

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e’re in the Tuesday of winter. We’ve had a decent taste of what’s to come, but still have a pretty long slog ahead of us. At least we’re almost in reach of the (nominal) motivation of hump-day (that’s Christmas in this, now admittedly quite tired, analogy). Spring seems wholly out of grasp still, though, so we’ve just got to plough on, really (fingers crossed not literally, like, through snow), and make the best of winter.

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A F T E R S

Some people, after all, love this time of year.

There’s just something about the promise of vitamin D deficiency, constant drops in body temperature and a desperate lack of daylight hours that really does it for them.

(Yeah, I reckon they’re vampires, too.) To be fair, though, these harsh few months – which are rough enough to convince many animals far savvier than humans that there’s nothing else for it than to find somewhere warm and snooze there for weeks on end – is prime season for cosy pubs with great log fire game and hearty stews. And therein lies winter’s (sole?) redemption.

The Swan Inn is one of those warm, snug pubs that has you dismissing winter’s ugly temperament as no more than a cheeky misdemeanour that you can’t hold against it. It makes being cold, soggy and deprived of sunlight feel not actually that bad after all, because now you’ve got reason to order a nice amber ale, take it over to the open fire and do approximately zero for the rest of the evening.

Set in Rowberrow (a village just inside the Mendip Hills AONB), it’s formed of three

former cottages that were joined up and converted into a pub more than 300 years ago. Nowadays, it’s a Butcombe gaff – one of more than 40 South West pubs in the local brewery’s portfolio – but still with all those low ceilings, wooden beams and exposed brick walls that you’d hope for in a centuries-old rural boozer that you’ve just walked into out of the darkness and rain. Wallpaper is patterned with woodland animals, candles give off a soft glow, and a log burner radiates heat from inside an old stone fireplace.

A roast fig, blue cheese and shallot purée tart (£7) is disguised with a heap of lightly dressed salad leaves. Underneath are quarters of soft fruit, and a scattering of candied walnuts, their sweetness wellbalanced with the salty tang of the blue cheese. There’s a beetroot

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salad too (£7.50), with dollops of fresh-tasting whipped ricotta and toasted seed crackers.

The rabbit stew (£14.50) has a rich and creamy character and delivers a hit of tarragon. The game – hailing from Wiltshire – had been slow cooked until it became super tender, breaking down into flakes, and was topped with caramelised Jerusalem artichokes, kale and fresh, nicely al dente carrot. A really filling bowl of comfort food that, while enjoyable, in the end proves a jot too rich, and defeats us.

The coq au vin pie (£12.50) is lighter in comparison: a pastry lid tops a large ramekin filled with a lovely wine-spiked mix of tender chicken, smoked pancetta and mushroom. On the side is a generous heap of colcannon – the smooth mash mixed with strips of cabbage – and a pot of rich, dark chuck jus. Maybe the favourite dish of the night, it’s apparently the pub’s bestseller.

As well as these gastropub-esque offerings, there are flatbread pizzas and classic pub grub choices on the neatly laid out menu, like (naturally!) Butcombe-battered fish and chips, and beer, mustard and honey ham with egg, chips and piccalilli.

Desserts are not needed, but ordered anyway. (What’s new?)

Sticky toffee pud (£6) is my kryptonite (okay, one of many), and despite being pretty sure what this datey number will be like, I have it anyway. Drenched in a generous amount of toffee sauce, it’s soft, spongy and just as hoped. A pear, hazelnut and chocolate crumble (£6.50) is equally welcome on our table. The warm, pale custard ups the comfort factor and, at one point, manages to skip the pud altogether, L pouring it straight onto her spoon with a guilty glance upwards to see if I was watching. There is no judgment here.

The Swan Inn, Rowberrow, Winscombe BS25 1QL; 01934 852371; butcombe.com

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A F T E R S

( D E S T I N AT I O N P U B S )

THE LITTON Â JESSICA CARTER HEADS OUT TO THE MENDIPS FOR A LUNCH OF EPIC PROPORTIONS...

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hen Sally Billington took over this pub in March 2015, she knew she was going to have to go all in.

Sat in a small village on the edge of the Mendips, it’s a huge space that simply can’t rely on locals alone if it wants to feel full and generate any kind of atmosphere. Not to mention, I imagine, money. In its former guise as old-school boozer The Kings Arms, this place changed hands a few times before eventually closing in 2014.

After being gutted it now shows lots of its ancient stone and original features, and old materials have been reused in new ways – an old elm beam is now the top of the bar, for instance. The Litton opened in spring 2017 as a destination pub, restaurant and hotel (if you like the clarity of pigeon holes, you might file it along with The Pig, perhaps, which isn’t far away), which pulls in punters from many of the surrounding areas, including Bath and Bristol (both a smidgen over 30 minutes away).

As part of the redesign, the former front door is now at the back, so for Google Maps-reliant travellers like me, you’ll likely be directed to the rear of the pub, and probably then find yourself gingerly pushing open an unmarked door (found amongst those of the exterior guest rooms), unsure as to whether you’ll be given the welcome of an intruder or patron. (Luckily, it was the latter. Phew.)

Warm, fresh bread arrived swiftly after we took our table – before the drinks, even. Which was ideal for me – my hangover might have been in its final stages, but my appetite was still raging. One pint of hair of the dog for me, a glass of the recommended white wine for M, and a second round of bread, and we were settled in for the long haul.

Red wine-poached pear (£6.50) is oft seen on a dessert menu at this time of year, but not so much among the starters. The fruit was made savoury by the pairing of salami, blue cheese and dukkah, and balanced with roasted grape and pomegranate molasses to create a really nice sweet-salty starter. Beginning my meal with fruit might not have been what my moaning belly had in mind, but it definitely hit the spot.

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Opposite, M was making a mental note for his next lunch after the night before, while tucking into his ‘full English’ (£7.50), which turned out to be both English, with lots of meat and egg (and somewhat Mediterranean too, sitting as it did in a thick sea of gently spiced tomato, bacon and bean ragu), and ‘full’ – it was huge for a starter, easily a stand-alone brunch dish. A soft-centred, toast-coated sausage and black pudding Scotch egg was joined by brittle strips of crisp bacon as well as a few roasted mushrooms for a tasty, multitextured and satisfying (perhaps a little too satisfying?) dish.

For mains, the lemon and garlic roasted bone-in chicken breast (£15.50) had nicely coloured skin and juicy, pearly white flesh underneath. It sat among a generous and colourful heap of corn and courgette succotash, which injected a gentle spice as well as a mix of textures and sunny favour. On the top sat golden and crisp coated polenta chips. Finished off with a generous scattering of grated parmesan to season, it was a fun, bright and nicely thought out dish (and another very generous portion).

The tandoori monkfish (£18), meanwhile, saw two meaty, bright red monkfish tails accompanied by lentil dal, onion relish and a courgette pakora, the whole lot scattered with leafy greenery. The spices were high enough in the mix to remind you that they’re there, but not so much as to overwhelm the well-cooked fish. A confident, successful main, M concluded.

A white chocolate panna cotta (£6.50) was full of textures and tastes – hard and soft, sharp and smooth – so, although wholly unnecessary, was seen off all the same.

Would I make the 30-minute journey here and back for food again? Yes. But I’d even more happily roll upstairs to one of the guest rooms after a feed of such proportions...

The Litton, Litton, Near Wells BA3 4PW; 01761 241554; thelitton.co.uk

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FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP? I often find myself drooling at the thought of what I might cook-up after a trawl around The Farm Shop at Lowden. It has great quality produce and an extensive range.

BEST WINE MERCHANT? After too many years of buying wine from the supermarket, I realised I was being hypocritical in chastising customers at the roastery for buying bland supermarket coffee. Then I met Caspar, the man behind Bowes Wines – he’s every bit as passionate and knowledgeable about wine as I am about coffee, and I haven’t bought a bottle in the supermarket since.

CHEEKY COCKTAIL? The knowledge and passion of Hakan and his team at Widbrook Grange, coupled with the unique agricultural-inspired snug of a bar, is reason enough to seek this place out. And they happen to have over 150 gins...

L I T T L E

B L A C K

POSH NOSH? Henry’s on Saville Row in Bath. The restaurant is fresh and stylish and Henry is a genius with that rare blend of passion, imagination, talent and design skills to make dishes that you remember for eons — like delicate and sweet black pudding and squid.

B O O K

PhIL BUCKLeY

QUICK PINT? I love The New Inn at Westwood – partly because it’s such a pleasant over-the-fields walk from home, but mainly because it has the best public bar banter, where you have to chat your way through the throng of friendly locals just to order a pint.

COMFORT FOOD? My favourite used to be a New York deli sandwich from The Cheeky Bean on London Road, but alas, this has now closed to enable Amanda and Steve to throw their energy into their new shop in Shepton Mallet. It’s bigger, brighter, but serving amazing cakes, salads, brunches, smoothies and coffee with the same enthusiasm.

THE FOUNDER OF MICRO COFFEE ROASTERY DUSTY APE CAN OFTEN BE SPOTTED IN PICTURESQUE BRADFORDON-AVON, IT SEEMS...

BREAKFAST? Sarah makes a mean bacon sarnie at No. 10 Tea Gardens in Avoncliff – it’s a well-deserved treat after a brisk morning walk with our Hungarian Vizsla, Chilli-Pepper.

FOOD ON THE GO? I have to admit to having a weak spot for an occasional Schwartz Bros burger. A throwback from the ’80s when the now-closed Bishopston store was a regular motorbike ride out with school friends from Alveston.

Quick! Now add this little lot to your contacts book...

HIDDEN GEM? The newly opened Coffee Barn (tucked away in a beautiful old barn adjacent to the Tithe Barn in Bradford-onAvon) promises homemade cakes and huge smiles.

The Farm Shop at Lowden, Shaw SN12 8EZ; lowdengardencentre.com Bowes Wines; boweswine.co.uk Widbrook Grange, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1UH; widbrookgrange.co.uk Henry’s, Bath BA1 2QP; henrysrestaurantbath.com The New Inn, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 2AE; thenewinnwestwood.co.uk The Cheeky Bean, Shepton Mallet BA4 5AZ; thecheekybean.co.uk No. 10 Tea Gardens, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 2DR; avonclifftea.com Schwartz Bros, Bath; schwartzbros.co.uk The Coffee Barn, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1LF; thegranaryboa.com The Dog House, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1FG; doghouseboa.co.uk Café Nouveau, Tytherington BA11 5BW; cafe-nouveau.co.uk Iford Manor, near Bradford-on-Avon BA15 2BA; ifordmanor.co.uk

PET FRIENDLY? Who would have thought that coffee in a pet shop was a good idea? Well, Ruth at The Dog House had a hunch it might be, and with a gentle nudge from a local roaster (ahem) it became a highly successful reality.

MOST UNDERRATED? There’s a very special place in Tytherington, just outside Frome, called The Lighthouse, home to Café Nouveau. The focus here is healthy, natural and homemade food, which is exceptional and can be enjoyed from an amazing terrace overlooking 30 acres of unspoilt parkland.

ONE TO WATCH? You don’t really need any more reason to visit Iford Manor than its Grade I listed gardens, designed by Harold Peto. That’s except for the teas imported by Will, the owner, or maybe the cider made by his neighbour Joe, from apples grown on the estate, of course... dustyape.com

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