CRUMBS BATH + BRISTOL NO.87 APRIL 2019
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THE TOP BAR COCKTAIL HIDING IN HT! PLAIN SIG My spring onions love hip hop The little rap scallions!
MAG.COM CRUMBS L 2019
D O O G Y L TROL ’ N I L E E F ’ O L G T A TH
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BRISTOL
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Opening times Monday - Saturday: 9.30am - 5.30pm Sunday: 10.00am - 4.00pm
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Manchester . York . Sutton Coldfield . Bristol . Farnborough . Brentwood . Aberdeen . Tunbridge Wells . Cardiff Beverley . Chichester . High Wycombe . Liverpool . London North . London West . Orpington
SHOULD HAVE PUT A SPRING ON IT BEING THE IMPATIENT, solar-powered, summerenthusiast I am, I ducked out of winter this month to top up those Vitamin D levels and eat and drink my way around Cape Town. It involved blushing pink impala and fire-grilled springbok as well as fresh, South Africangrown avocados (I had a lot of avo) and locally made wine (ditto, the wine). Within five hours of touching back down on this fair isle, the tan had vanished and I was trying to warm up with a big bowl of porridge on Gloucester Road, watching the torrential rain bounce off the pavements. No matter, though, because we’ve officially made it through the darkest, coldest months of the year and warmer days – not to mention the bountiful spring harvests that come with them – are ahead. (That’s assuming that we’re not getting snow in March again, 2018 style...) To celebrate the infancy of this fresh new season we’ve made a young, crisp allium – spring onion – our Hero Ingredient. And proper versatile it is, too – you can cook it or eat it raw, use as a vibrant garnish or as the base of a dish. Freddy Bird has a great recipe for them on page 10 – and gives you a great reason to dust off that barbecue if you’ve not yet broken it out this year. Elsewhere, with Britain’s exit from the EU breathing down our necks with unnerving immediacy as I write, we’ve been reading the speculation in the news on how this might affect our food landscape – in particular, our grocery shopping. Inspired by this, we’ve been talking to indie food retailers about shopping local, and the effects it could have not only on our wallet, but also our health and communities. Until next month!
Jessica Carter, Editor jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk
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TABLE OF CONTENTs
ISSUE 87 APRIL 2019
STARTERS 08 HERO INGREDIENT Hot springs 12 OPENINGS ETC The word on the foodie street 17 MUCH TO DO What to eat and drink this month
EDITOR
JESSICA CARTER jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR
MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ONLINE EDITOR
DAN IZZARD dan.izzard@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR
TREVOR GILHAM
CHEF! 22 Farro with spring veg, by Stephanie Boote 25 Roast cauliflower tagine, by Katie Garden 28 Chocolate and hazlenut loaf cake, by Leanne Purton
ADVERTISING MANAGER
KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER
ALISTAIR TAYLOR alistair.taylor@mediaclash.co.uk ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE
NATALIE BRERETON natalie.brereton@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER
SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
PRODUCTION DESIGNER
GEMMA SCRINE gemma.scrine@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version
large version
10 Calcots with romesco, by Freddy Bird 19 Pain d’épices, by Richard Bertinet 37 Confit sea trout with fennel, by Tommy Albrecht 37 Cauliflower rarebit, by Tommy Albrecht
MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW 01225 475800 mediaclash.co.uk
WHAT SUP? 35 THE DRIP FEED What’s new in the drinks world? 36 THE WINE GUY Treat her right with these wines and matching recipes this M-Day 39 RAISING THE BAR Cocktails at Bristol’s Gold Bar KITCHEN ARMOURY 45 HOUSE CALL The kitchen of a conservation architect 52 THE WANT LIST Vintage shopping for the kitchen MAINS 60 SHOP STARS How shopping with our local indies can benefit us in more ways than one 63 TIME TO GLO The many delicious reasons we love Gloucester Road right now AFTERS 74 Eight 77 The Spotted Cow 80 The Circus PLUS! 82 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Ciara Hillyer’s top haunts
© All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month we ate springbok in Cape Town, sipped wine and scoffed pizza at the new Stony Street House, and cooked this issue’s roast cauliflower tagine recipe
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START E Rs
INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES MICHELIN-STARRED SET MENU
The Olive Tree in Bath has put together a special three-course set menu for Mother’s Day. Tuck into the likes of Orkney scallop with horseradish and pink grapefruit; lamb rump with hispi cabbage and hazelnut; and custard tart with rhubarb for £50 per person. olivetreebath.co.uk
LUNCH IN COOPERS’ HALL
The Bristol Old Vic is opening its Grade I listed banqueting hall to the public for the first time this M-Day, for groups of eight or more who book Sunday lunch. Dine in the newly refurbished, centuries-old hall and be entertained by a magician. bristololdvic.org.uk
BLOOMS & BOTANICS WORKSHOP
Bristol’s Harvey Nichols is holding a flower arranging and gin tasting event especially for mums, with the help of Bloom and Wild and The Old Curiosity distillery. Tickets are £60 from Eventbrite and guests will get to take home their bouquet. harveynichols.com
AFTERNOON TEA WITH GIN
Riverstation has teamed up with 6 O’clock Gin to create a special afternoon tea that you’ll enjoy just as much as Ma. Cakes, sandwiches and scones will be served up in the Pontoon bar alongside gin cocktails. Visit the website to book. riverstation.co.uk
MUm’s The wORd PSST – IT’S MOTHER’S DAY ON 31 MARCH, REMEMBER. HERE’S SOME INSPO FOR MAKING SURE THAT SPECIAL LADY IS TREATED AS SHE DARN WELL DESERVES...
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SPRING ONION 008
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VERSATILE, DELICIOUS, HIGHLY NUTRITIOUS AND – PERHAPS BEST OF ALL – A WELCOME HARBINGER OF GOOD TIMES AHEAD, THERE’S SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL ABOUT EACH YEAR’S POST-SNOW EMERGENCE OF THE SPRING ONION… ilder, sweeter and more elegant than their fully grown relatives – but essentially of the same flavour – you can eat spring onions in their entirety, from their long, hollow green tops to their little white bulbs. Like most alliums – leeks, chives, garlic and shallots are all close family members – they’re full of goodness (vitamins A, B6, C and E, plus calcium, iron, sodium, potassium and dietary fibre) and, in their long history, have been credited with everything from curing colds and improving eyesight to warding off a more generalised ‘evil’. (Got a vampire problem and no garlic? It might be worth giving spring onions a go.) The only downside, of course, is that many of these qualities weaken considerably on cooking. Spring onions are endlessly versatile too, adding depth and interest to myriad dishes, and serving as a building block to many more. Finely sliced, they add flavour without the caramelised sweetness or sugary body of a slow-cooked large onion. The light, wispy note they bring to spring vegetable tart, say – promising tantalising hints of the summer to come – is quite something. Remember us saying they’re versatile? Well, familiar types like the ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians and Chinese began cooking with spring onions as far back as 2000BC, and over the centuries came up with assorted alternative uses for them too. Thus, spring onions can be used to season a wok (removing unwanted metallic smells), to repel insects (and soothe their bites), to stimulate hair growth, to clean knives, as an emergency odour absorber when you’re out of the ancient world equivalent of V.I.Poo, and even – in the Persian Jewish tradition – to symbolise the Egyptian whips endured by the Israelites in brief but memorable moments of Passover-time theatre. THOUGH YOU CAN actually pick them all year around, spring onions are usually planted as seeds in late autumn and harvested about now, as the cold weather retreats. Growing them is easy – seriously, just bury some leftovers in a little soil and see what happens – and, best of all, they can be ready in eight to 14 weeks, depending on type and time of year. This makes ’em an ideal starter veg for the impatient, and a great little ‘filler’ crop for more ambitious vegetable plots and allotments, being something you can slot in between rows of slower growing greens. If you prefer your spring onions small and pale, ‘White Lisbon’ or the rounder, pickling-friendly ‘Pompeii’ are two good varieties to start with; if it’s a red you’re after, ‘Apache’ is a good, crisp, versatile choice. But should your green fingers extend no further than picking decent examples from the shelf, that’s easy too. Just go for unblemished, healthy-looking onions showing no signs of sprouting, with firm bulbs (sometimes quite pronounced, but occasionally almost invisible, leaving the whole thing looking like a smooth little leek) and bright, dark green leaves. Most varieties taste pretty much the same, whatever their colour, and – as they’re all about young, fresh flavour – you want to buy little but often. Spring onions don’t keep for very long – five days in the fridge is about all you can hope for.
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To prep, just wash, trim off the ragged bits at the top and the roots at the bottom, then slice the bulb into rounds; the green tops you can cut either across or lengthways. (These aren’t useful in every recipe, in truth – and some find them tough and indigestible – so, if in doubt, save them for stock or the stir fry.) TO COOK, SMALL spring onions need nothing more than rubbing in olive oil, seasoning, then popping onto the grill; you can then serve ’em up with more oil, and perhaps some balsamic and a squeeze of lemon. They’re also great raw, adding heat and crispness to a salad or cheese, being a great addition to potato salad and feeling right at home sprinkled over steamed fish. (You can even eat them on their own – it might sound weird, but they’re lush in a soft little bun.) As with other early-season veggies – such as asparagus, spinach, peas or broad beans – the beauty of spring onions is that you don’t have to do much to them at all. And when you do, they cook incredibly quickly. In fact, it doesn’t really matter how you cook them: they’re great grilled, roasted whole or used like pearl onions in casseroles, soups and stews. They also go amazingly well with pasta and olive oil, especially if you add a few other ingredients, like peas, cured pork, and maybe parmesan. Or stir them into raita or traditional Irish champ (basically, mashed potato with chopped spring onions); pickle them with balsamic vinegar and red wine; or, as mentioned, use them as a stir-fry staple, alongside ginger and chillies. In fact, it’s once you start exploring Asian and Mexican food that the spring onion really comes into its own, starring in assorted salsas, used as an accompaniment to tofu and noodles, or simply nibbled raw as an appetiser. Chopped into soy sauce, perhaps with chilli and rice vinegar, they make a great dipping sauce, and – being very similar in flavour to the larger fresh green onions used in Chinese cooking – they’re useful both at the start of many dishes and at the end, scattered over the finished thing. Not for nothing did Ken Hom once call spring onions, “Asia’s most universally used vegetable and seasoning ingredient,” as they’re backbone and garnish both. FINALLY, A QUESTION. What’s the difference between spring onions and their various, nigh-identical lookalikes: bay onions, salad onions, green onions, calcots and scallions? Not much, is the answer, as they’re all little more than regular onions picked early – and, indeed, many varieties will grow into normal-sized onions if you give them the chance. Scallions, calcots and green onions are the mildest type, picked earlier than the others, whereas spring onions have generally been left a tad longer, and will have grown more pronounced little bulbs at the base; they also tend to have a slightly stronger flavour. (True scallions are actually a separate cultivar, bred to be especially mild and tender and produce no bulb, but in practice they’re near indistinguishable from spring onions picked early enough.) And in cooking, they’re all pretty much interchangeable, as the heat mellows them and evens out the differences. It’s only if you’re using your spring onions or scallions raw that you want to be more careful about which sort you choose.
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R E C I P E
CALCOTS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE FREDDY BIRD IS FIRING UP THE BARBECUE FOR THIS MONTH’S HERO...
GRILLED ONIONS WITH nut sauce doesn’t sound like the most exciting of recipes – but the look of pleasure on everybody’s faces when they first try this dish is a pure delight. Plus, it’s great fun to eat! I’ve played around with many versions of this sauce and more recently have omitted the bread, sprinkling toasted breadcrumbs at the end instead for a rich and satisfying crunch. The sauce is best made in a big pestle and mortar, but you can use a food processor as well. Just don’t blend the hell out of it; I think it’s best with a coarse texture. Also, I find the flavour improves with time – I often make it and come back to it half an hour later after the flavours have all mixed. When it comes to cooking the calcots on the barbecue, the quality of the charcoal or wood is so important. I use an assortment of woods and prefer olive, apple or cherry, as well as oak. You can really taste the sweetness of the smoke.
SERVES 4 100g piquillo peppers (or red peppers) 100g almonds 100g hazelnuts 90-100ml extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, peeled and squashed 50-75g good-quality passata 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 tbsp Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar pinch saffron, steeped in 1 tbsp hot water handful breadcrumbs, well toasted 12-16 calcots (depending on size) 1 Get a fire going on the barbecue and heat the oven to 150C/300F/gas mark 2. 2 Char the peppers over the flame until their skins are blackened. When cool enough to handle, peel off the skin, remove the seeds and pith and blitz the flesh to a purée. 3 Spread the almonds and hazelnuts onto a baking tray and toast in the oven for a few minutes until they’re evenly golden. 4 Heat the oil in a pan and fry the garlic gently in it until golden. Remove from the oil and set aside, reserving the oil.
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5 In batches, pound the nuts to a mediumcoarse crumb – some can be finer, as this will help to bind the sauce. Then pound the garlic to a smooth paste, and combine with the garlicky oil, pepper purée, passata, paprika, vinegar, saffron and saffron water, and the nuts. The consistency should be loose and dippable. When it’s done, pour into a bowl and keep at room temperature. 6 Trim the calcots (leaving the roots attached) and soak in salty water (this cleans them and also gets a little salt inside the onion) before throwing over a fire on a rack. 7 Blacken the outside of the onion and then, when nearly cooked, toss them all together in newspaper and leave them to steam and finish cooking. 8 Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the sauce. 9 Serve the calcots alongside the bowl of romesco. To eat (armed with plenty of napkins), peel away the black outer layer of the calcots (I like to leave a little on) and dip into the romesco sauce. Tip your head back and lower it in. Messy, simple and – importantly – delicious!
Openings etc
D’OH!
INNOVATIVE BATH pizza gaff Dough has landed in Bristol. Hospitality pro Massimo Nucaro and pizza acrobat Emiliano Tunno have chosen a large, glass-fronted building on Baldwin Street (formerly Aquila), for their second site. Expect to see plenty of free-from and vegan options on the inclusive menu, and the widest variety of pizza doughs in the city, including sourdough, gluten-free purple corn and turmeric. Other Italian eats like spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino (spaghetti with garli, oil and chilli pepper) and gnocchi alla curcurma (turmeric gnocchi with ’nduja and smoked mozerella) will also be served in the two-storey restaurant; the launch is planned for the end of March. doughpizzarestaurant.co.uk
PLAYING HOUSE
FROME HAS an impressive new wine shop, bar and restaurant in the form of Stony Street House. From one of the founders of Beckford Bottle Shop, this new venue in the pretty market town offers pizza from the wood-fired oven and small plates on its all-day dining menu. (We loved the ’nduja and charred red pepper pizza, and prosciutto, butternut squash and ricotta salad.) Morning pastries and coffee are also on the go, as well as, of course, a huge selection of wines (we’re talking more than 350), starting at £6.50 a bottle. Said bottles can be taken away or enjoyed in the cool surroundings (either the upstairs restaurant area or more casual bar and shop below). Ethically minded, this place has a host of wines on tap too, employs no single-use plastic, and is aiming for zero food waste. stonystreethouse.com
PLANTING IDEAS BATH IS getting a brand new bar and restaurant in the form of The Botanist, set to open on 25 March. The brand – which has numerous other sites across the country – is moving into the historic Octagon Chapel on Milsom Street, which was last home to Burger and Lobster until 2017. The large, Grade II* listed building, originally built as a church in the 18th century, has four floors for the new owners to work with, including the vaulted basement. The Botanist promises a carefully styled interior, a range of cocktails featuring British botanicals, and drink masterclasses. That’s as well as lunch and dinner (including Sunday roasts), and brunch on weekends, too. thebotanist.uk.com
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Q& A
aSK the OwnER HERE’S GLENN WOOD, OWNER OF SHAKE, WRAP AND ROLL
BOX FRESH
How long have you worked here, Glenn? Since it opened in 2010, then I took over three years ago.
UNLESS YOU’VE been living under a rock, you’ll recognise Wriggle as that rather natty app that helps you discover great independent restaurants and bars in Bristol, while saving you dosh with juicy deals. Wriggle has convinced some of the takeaway venues it works with to allow punters to bring in their own containers, and has launched a special lunch box for just such culinary endeavors. Made from sustainable bamboo and costing just a fiver, the lunchbox has been created in a bid to help hungry Bristolians cut down on single-use packaging and plastic waste. To find out where you can get yer new fancy container filled up with delicious grub, visit the website. getawriggleon.com
And how long have you worked in hospitality for? All in all, about 18 years. My first ‘job’ was in my dad’s burger van as a kid. And what do you love most about being in the industry? Providing good food for people is a glorious thing to do. I know it sounds corny, but seeing everyone happy while eating what I’ve made for them still puts a massive smile on my face every day. Best thing about your current job? Getting people to try something a little different and hearing them sincerely thank you for swaying them away from the norm. Also, being your own boss is nice. Tiring and mentally draining, but nice! What kind of customers do you get? Being on Cheltenham Road means that we get a massive variety; everyone from uni students and kids from the local schools right up to a lot of older people. What’s the best selling number on the menu? The spicy chicken and onion bhaji wrap. It’s what I have for lunch pretty much every day. With hummdus and all the salad it’s the best lunch around. Add a Rio, too – the king of soft drinks! What makes great customer service? I think it comes from being able to read and understand people. There is nothing worse than a server being overly familiar (or begging for TripAdvisor reviews before you’ve even eaten) when you just want some food and a chill.
VITAL STATS
Where have you been locally that has great service? The Shakespeare in Redland has consistently great service and amazing food, plus a silly-cheap lunch deal for two with zero compromise on quality. Also, if you’ve not been, try Tuk Tuck in town by the fountains; it serves unbelievably good Korean fusion food and has great service and atmosphere, too.
THE OPENING of Bath fitness studio Class has brought with it a new café. Focusing on fresh, health-giving food, the team at Vital Café has worked with a nutritional therapist to make sure customers get the biggest bang for their buck when it comes to body-loving food and drink, with colourful, seasonal salads, soups, snacks and juices available to eat in or take out. Open to non-members, Vital Café has been created by the same team as longstanding local joint The Grocer and popular meat-free hangout Rooted, so we have healthy expectations. class-bath.co.uk
instagram.com/shake_wrap_and_roll
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In the Larder 1
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GOOD FEELINGS
WHETHER IT’S THE COMFORT FACTOR OR THE NUTRITIOUS HIT THAT YOUR BODY CRAVES, YOU CAN MAKE IT HAPPY WITH THIS LITTLE SELECTION OF EATS... 1 Yeo Valley Kefir Natural Yoghurt, £1.49/350g From the well-known organic South West dairy, this new fermented yoghurt is choc-full of live bacteria from 14 different culture strains (our guts love diversity when it comes to bacteria). Velvety in texture and tangy and refreshing in taste, it comes in a range of fruity flavours, as well as natural. Available at Waitrose in Bath and Bristol; yeovalley.co.uk 2 Pasta Evangelists Recipe Box, from £7.50/portion The pasta that comes in these meal boxes is all freshly handmade and packaged up
with imaginative sauces and garnishes. We recently had a box delivered, and found the meals super easy and speedy to cook up following the recipe sheets. Our orecchiette with pistachio pesto and wild boar tortelloni were both on the money. Order online; pastaevangelists.com 3 Watmuff and Beckett Broths, £3.19/450g You might know this Somerset outfit for its lunch-break friendly soups or risottos, and if you’re a fan of those, you’ll be interested in its new broth range. The beef, chicken and vegetable broths have been developed to give a nutritional boost to
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our bodies. We lunched on the classic chicken, and found it packed with veg and tender meat. Find them online at Ocado; watmuffandbeckett.co.uk
and salt and vinegar flavours. Available at Chandos Delis in Bath and Bristol, as well as Bristol’s Zero Green; twofarmers.co.uk
4 Two Farmers Crisps, £1.10/40g Based just up the M5 over in Herefordshire, Two Farmers is a relatively new producer and has launched the UK’s very first 100-percent compostable crisp packet (it’ll breakdown within six months). Hurrah! But what about the contents? Thick and crunchy, these non-greasy chips come in Hereford Bullshot (beef), and Hereford Hop Cheese and Onion, as well as classic salted
5 T2 Green Rose Tea, £8/100g A great fruity bev to enjoy as the days get a little brighter and warmer. This green loose leaf tea comes with a gentle floral backbone, courtesy of added rose petals, as well as a sweet and fruity character. Just use a teaspoon’s worth per cup, and brew for no longer than three minutes to keep the flavours as light and fresh as they should be. Find it at T2 in Bath; t2tea.com
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WHAT’S ON AT THE GRAPES Join us for lunch Tuesday to Friday 12–2pm and enjoy 2 courses for £19.50, 3 courses for £22.50 from our set lunch menu. MOTHERING SUNDAY 31ST MARCH EASTER SUNDAY 21ST APRIL We will be serving our traditional Sunday Roasts. To book please contact us directly or via our online booking system. 14 Silver Street, Bradford On Avon, BA15 1JY Telephone: 01225 938088 Email: maylee@thebunchofgrapes.com
www.thebunchofgrapes.com
S T A R T E R S
GET YOUR ’BAB ON AT THE HOBA POP-UP
Hoba Kebab is a pop-up inspired by the top-notch kebabs to be found in Berlin (yes, Germany), and has just started a fresh residency at The Volunteer Tavern. Go tuck into grilled and filled Turkish bread, with the likes of spiced cauli and tahini, or chargrilled chicken with peanut and pickled cucumber, while you can. hoba.ltd
MUCH TO DO
STEP INTO SPRINGTIME AT THE NEW ETHICUREAN
The doors of the newly redesigned Ethicurean are now open, and the menu has a fresh concept too, with vegfocused dishes ideal for sharing. Now the days are brighter and spring’s larder is coming into fruition, it’s the ideal time to pay a visit. Wander around the walled garden, enjoy the views and sample the homegrown produce. theethicurean.com
THERE’S NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT, AND NO PRESENT QUITE LIKE A FOOD-AND-DRINKPACKED TO-DO LIST. HERE’S WHAT WE RECKON YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT THIS MONTH...
FUEL YOUR JOURNEY WITH GOOD AND PROPER
Got a train journey this month? Pick up your provisions from new indie food stall Good and Proper, tucked away at the end of Temple Meads’ subway. Homemade breakfasts, sarnies and salads accompany hot soups and stews, and snacks from the local likes of Little Jack Horners and Bertinet are on the counter – all great to eat on the run. goodandproperbristol.com
BE A CIDER DRINKER AT THE ORCHARD INN
PICK UP A LIMITED EDITION EASTER BAKE AT PINKMANS
Did you know that this award-winning free house cider pub is under new ownership? Steph Iles and Sam Marriott are now at the helm, and are keeping the cider tradition well and truly alive, adding new farmhouse varieties to the everevolving collection, as well as a new selection of local beers. More than enough reason to get yourself down there this month, we reckon. orchardinn.co.uk
Hot cross buns might well be our fave Easter snack (although we’d still like some chocolate eggs too, please), so we’re happy that Pinkmans has officially put them back on the menu – but they’re only hanging around until Easter Monday. Made with the bakers’ white sourdough starter, they’re packed with fruit and spice, and are being baked fresh every morning. Eat them on site or take away. pinkmans.co.uk
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BOOK OF THE MONTH
WE’VE BEEN GEEKING OUT WITH THESE AUTHORS ABOUT THEIR SPECIALIST SUBJECTS...
TOKYO STORIES
CRUMB
THE BURGER BOOK
Now here’s something special: few cookbooks look like it (shocking pink page edges, an innovative structure, plenty of pictures of street signs and waving cats), or have quite such geeky, enthusiastic intensity. Wisconsin-raised, Brixton-based, Tokyoobsessed MasterChef 2001 winner Tim Anderson loves Japanese food – no, you don’t understand, he really, really loves Japanese food – and Tokyo Stories doesn’t just tell us how to make virtually every native dish you can think of (ramen, sushi, gyoza, octopus balls), but gives plenty of background on each of them too. Not just their history, but why they work, regional variations, and how to recreate them with UK ingredients, too. There’s cute stuff here (choux cream puffs shaped like the anime character My Neighbour Totoro), and mad stuff too – you’ll do a double-take at the bulging strawberriesand-cream sandwich, and the stir-fried noodles in a bun – but most of what you’ll find is inspirational and fun. MATT B IE LBY
Richard Bertinet – originally from Brittany but having spent the last 30 years baking in England – eases us into his sixth book with the basics, writing with a sense of experience and enthusiasm that could convince even the most intimidated baker to reach for the flour. This book focuses on perfecting the texture – or ‘crumb’ – of bread and other baked treats, which Richard finds people struggle with. We’re taught an alternative method of kneading the dough – involving folding and stretching to incorporate air and give a light, bubbly result – and are taken through ingredients, tools, technique and methodology. Then come the bread recipes – rustic baguettes, sourdough et al – followed by enriched dough creations like gotchial and English muffins, then flatbreads, and recipes for cooking with bread. This book takes us far beyond the generic loaf, but we’re in safe hands with this hugely knowledgeable local baking guru. JESSICA CARTER
This issue’s books are fair bubbling with enthusiasm, and DJ BBQ – aka Christian Stevenson, YouTube star and festival regular – certainly isn’t short of love for fresh buns, crisp lettuce, lip-smacking sauce and the meat patties that make them all worthwhile. Cheery, mullet-sporting and with an enviable hat wardrobe, he’s liable to say things like “Woooooohooooo!” and “I could marry this burger if it was legal!” That’s when he’s not recommending tunes to cook to (lots of Led Zep and Smashing Pumpkins). He does, however, find time to squeeze in dozens of recipes, some traditional (the Classic Cheeseburger), some puntastic (the Fleetwood Mac and Cheese Burger) and some meat-free (the Buffalo Cauliflower Burger) but still somehow heart-threatening. You feel the meat sweats just looking at this thing, quite frankly – but hey, relax, summer is coming, barbecue season is on its way, and the engaging, bouncy Burger Book promises nothing but good vibes. MAT T B I EL BY
Tim Anderson (Hardie Grant, £26)
Richard Bertinet (Kyle Books, £25)
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DJ BBQ (Quadrille, £12.99)
THE VINEGAR CUPBOARD
Angela Clutton (Bloomsbury, £26) This perhaps underappreciated ingredient is presented in all its geekinducing glory in food historian and writer Angela Clutton’s first book. A release with relevance, it comes at a time of growing interest in fermentation, and even touches on vinegar’s historic and potential healthgiving properties. Also covered are production methods, flavours and general uses of different styles of vinegars – as well, of course, as recipes you can put them to work in. From clam and chorizo stew lifted with sherry vinegar to cinder toffee spiked with cider vinegar and sticky pork ribs enhanced with Chinese black vinegar – not to mention pickles of several varieties – the recipes are numerous and varied. If vinegar is of even just a mild interest to you, this will easily satisfy your curiosity, and if not, prepare to have a new foodie fascination. This is an authoritatively written book that’s a great read for anyone looking to enhance their cooking. J E S S ICA CARTE R
THE YOGIC KITCHEN Jody Vassallo (HQ, £16.99)
Here’s a book that takes some commitment. Aussie cook and yoga teacher Jody Vassallo has based her recipe collection on the Indian food-asmedicine discipline Ayurveda, which divides everyone into one of three ‘doshas’ (constitution types), then gives you a diet to match. For Vatas, soups and slowcooked stews are ideal; Pittas love cooling fruits, and Kaphas are put out of balance by sweet foods and alcohol. Elsewhere we’re told that eggs are incompatible with cheese (so bye bye, omelettes) and that bananas and milk should never meet (see you, smoothies). It’s enough to make your head spin. However, while Ayurveda might not be the easiest routine to follow, Jody is a gentle teacher and encourages you to explore it at your own pace. Meantime, she’s got plenty of tempting meals for you to try, plus sweet treats, snacks and drinks. Our top picks? Chargrilled fennel and fish with herby avocado, mild green curry with eggs and cashews, and coconut custard with pomegranate and sticky rice.
PAIN D’ÉPICES Recipe from Crumb by Richard Bertinet (Kyle Books, £25); photography by Jean Cazals For me, as for most French people, this brings back memories of childhood – coming home from school and tucking into a slice with a glass of milk. It is a really simple recipe, and is quick and easy to make by hand. The addition of rye flour is traditional and it gives the crumb both a richness of flavour and a little acidity. MAKES 1 LOAF 350g good honey 40g soft dark brown sugar 125g plain flour 125g rye flour 1 tbsp mixed spice 1 tsp star anise 20g baking powder 2 medium eggs 100g full-fat milk 20g butter, for greasing
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1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ gas mark 4. 2 Gently heat the honey in a pan with the sugar, stirring until the sugar melts. Then remove from the heat. 3 Combine the plain flour, rye flour, mixed spice, star anise and baking powder in a bowl. In a separate bowl beat together the eggs and milk, and stir in the honey and sugar mixture. Then stir this into the dry ingredients to form a batter. 4 Melt the butter in a small pan and use to brush the inside of a 25cm long tin. 5 Fill the tin with the batter, transfer to the preheated oven and bake for 35 minutes until the top is dark brown and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.
Give the gift of a new skill Treat someone special to the ultimate Indian experience, a chance to learn new culinary skills and have fun at the same time! INDIAN COOKING CLASSES GIFT VOUCHERS AVAILABLE Interested? Get in touch!
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CHEF!
WHAT TO AND HOW TOMAKE MAKE IT – DIRECT FRO THE KITCHENS O M OUR FAVOURIT F FOODIES E
HIGHLIGHTS
22 PEAS TO MEET YOU A VEG-PACKED SPRING LUNCH
25 CAULI-POP ROAST CAULI STARS IN THIS VEGAN TAGINE
28 RAISE THE CAKES
GET YOUR BAKE ON WITH THIS CHOC LOAF CAKE
This brassica is available all year round, but at it's best right about now – make the most of it in a vegpacked tagine
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FARRO ’NUFF
FARRO WITH BROAD BEANS, PEAS, ASPARAGUS AND WILD GARLIC SERVES 2-3
STEPHANIE BOOTE IS READY FOR SPRING – AND SHE’S GOT JUST THE RECIPE TO CELEBRATE WITH…
Chef and food stylist Steph Boote is one half of catering and private chef biz Pasetti and Boote, which she runs with Max Pasetti. The pair create feasts for parties and events – as well as their own pop-ups – travelling wherever the work takes ’em. Their food is seasonal and rustic – just like this hearty dish, which takes advantage of spring harvests and foraging bounties. “This recipe really makes the most of what is coming into season, by pairing it with deliciously tasty, earthy farro,” says Steph. “Farro is a really versatile hulled wheat, fantastic in salads and more warming dishes, like this one. “This is super easy for me to make vegan for events if needed, and is one of my favourite wholesome, fresh lunches. So long as your vegetable component adds up to around the same weight, you can play about with the quantities of each one easily.”
Pasetti and Boote’s next pop up event will be a wine tasting at The Forge in Bristol on 12 May, with proceeds going to Square Food Foundation. For more details and tickets, visit the website; pasettiandboote.com
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350g broad beans, in their pods 150g asparagus 200g fresh peas, in their pods 650ml vegetable or chicken stock 2 tbsp good olive oil 1 small brown onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 200g farro 85ml white wine knob butter handful wild garlic (or basil, or a mixture of the two), chopped ½ lemon, juice only parmesan, grated, to serve 1 Bring a small pan of salted water to the boil, and fill a bowl with cold water. Pod the broad beans and remove any woody ends of asparagus. Drop the broad beans into boiling water for 20-30 seconds, then retrieve with a slotted spoon and place into the cold water. Remove the beans from their skins – they should pop out nice and easily. 2 Now put the asparagus into the boiling water for 30-60 seconds (depending on the thickness of the spears), then drain and rinse in cold water to refresh. Cut these into 1cm lengths. Pod the peas. 3 Dispose of the boiling water and pour the stock into the same pan to warm gently. 4 Meanwhile, heat the oil over a medium heat in a heavy-based pan. Add the onion and cook for a few minutes until softened. Add the garlic, a little salt and pepper and cook for a further 1 or 2 minutes. 5 Add the farro, stirring through for a minute or so until it starts to crackle. 6 Add the wine and stir until it has been absorbed. Then add most of the stock, reserving a small amount, and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. After 15 minutes, check to see if the farro is almost cooked. If it requires the last bit of stock, add this now. 7 When the liquid is almost absorbed, add the peas, broad beans and asparagus, and stir through. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper as required. 8 Add the butter then, once it’s melted, drop in the wild garlic or basil and finish with a good squeeze of lemon juice. Stir through. 9 Pile onto plates and finish with a generous grating of parmesan and a drizzle of good olive oil.
KATIE GARDEN HAS GIVEN US SOME BELTING BATCH-COOK INSPIRATION WITH THIS VEG-HEAVY, MOROCCAN-INSPIRED RECIPE...
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VEGAN
CauLI GOSH!
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Katie cooks up delicious lunches for delivery by bike in Bristol
Katie is the owner of Tiffin Time, a lunchtime takeaway and delivery service based in Old Market, Bristol. The varied menu of hearty, delicious dishes changes each week, and is inspired by food from around the globe. There are always plenty of options for those with allergies and intolerances and, as the ingredients are seasonal and sourced responsibly, these lunches make you feel good in more ways than one. “Since opening in 2015, Tiffin Time has held a commitment to the environment,” says Katie. “Our small menus – which are predominantly vegetarian and vegan – help to minimise food waste, and we’re mindful about quantity production. “Lunches to takeaway are served in biodegradable boxes or delivered in reusable tiffin tins, via pedal power. Customers are rewarded for bringing their own lunchbox or cup for coffees and smoothies, too.”
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER, APRICOT AND CHICKPEA TAGINE SERVES 5-6 1 large cauliflower, cut into florets 1 tsp ground cumin good-quality rapeseed oil 1 large white onion, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely diced 2cm piece fresh ginger, finely chopped 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cinnamon 100g red lentils 1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes 1 ltr good-quality vegetable stock 1 x 400g tin cooked chickpeas 100g dried apricots, roughly chopped 1 small bunch coriander, leaves picked and finely chopped 1 small bunch flat leaf parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped large handful flaked almonds, toasted 1 Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/gas mark 5. 2 Add the cauliflower florets to a large roasting pan and sprinkle the ground cumin
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all over. Season well with sea salt flakes and some pepper, drizzle with rapeseed oil and make sure all the cauliflower is rolled and covered in the cumin and seasoning. Roast for 30-40 minutes, stirring halfway through. 3 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy-based pot. Add the onion, garlic, celery and ginger and fry gently for 5 minutes or until tender. 4 Add the turmeric and cinnamon and season with about 1 tsp black pepper. Stir well until the onion mixture is well covered. Add the lentils and stir until they are also coated. 5 Add the chopped tomatoes, stock and chickpeas and stir well. Cover, leaving the lid slightly ajar, and simmer gently for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. 6 Then add the apricots, chopped coriander and all but a garnish’s worth of the chopped parsley. Stir and allow it to bubble away without the lid for a further 10-15 minutes. 7 Add the roasted cauliflower and check the seasoning. Garnish with the remaining parsley and toasted almonds. Serve with natural or vegan yoghurt, as well as couscous or flatbreads.
Tiffin Time, 13 Midland Road, Bristol BS2 0JT; 0117 954 0204; tiffintime.co.uk
LOVE IT OR LOaF IT
THIS GROWN-UP CHOCOLATE CAKE BY LEANNE PURTON IS GOING STRAIGHT ON OUR TO-BAKE LIST...
Leanne Purton started Pearly King Cake in 2012, inspired by the memories she has of learning to bake as a child with her nan in Southend. “I liked the idea of taking the traditional loaf cakes, puddings and pies we used to make in her tiny kitchen and adjusting them to suit modern tastes, while making the most of all the exciting ingredients we can now find on our high streets,” she explains. “This cake is gluten free, but if you aren’t gluten free you can simply swap out the flour for standard plain flour. It’s also delicious served with raspberries and crème fraîche as an Easter pud.”
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Leanne gives traditional bakes imaginative updates
CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT PRALINE CAKE SERVES 12 For the cake: 150g gluten-free plain flour 45g cocoa powder 50g ground hazelnuts 1 tsp gluten-free baking powder 200g unsalted butter 200g golden caster sugar 4 medium eggs 2 tbsp natural yoghurt For the praline: 75g caster sugar 50g hazelnuts, roasted and peeled For the topping: 1 tbsp cocoa powder 50g unsalted butter 150g icing sugar 1 tbsp hazelnut butter 2 tbsp milk 1 Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/gas mark 3. Grease a loaf tin and line with baking paper. 2 In a bowl, mix together the flour, cocoa, ground hazelnuts and baking powder. In a separate bowl, beat together the butter and caster sugar until really pale and fluffy (you can use a stand or hand mixer here). 3 In a jug, lightly beat the eggs and then very gradually add to the butter and sugar while mixing. If it looks like it might start to curdle, add a spoonful of the flour mixture before adding the rest of the egg.
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4 Once the egg is fully incorporated, with the mixer still going, add the dry ingredients a spoonful at a time, until they’re all mixed in. Finally, add the yoghurt and stop beating as soon as you have a smooth batter. 5 Pour into the lined loaf tin, and bake for 45 minutes. Test the cake by inserting a skewer into the centre. If it comes out clean, it’s ready. If not, it’ll need a further 5 minutes. When it’s cooked, remove from the oven and leave it to cool. 6 While the cake is cooling, make the praline. Place a piece of greaseproof paper onto a baking tray and set to one side. Heat the sugar in a small saucepan on a very low setting. Don’t stir it, but keep a close eye on it to prevent burning. As soon as it has turned into a golden caramel, pour in the hazelnuts, give it a quick stir, and pour it onto the baking sheet, spreading it out into an even, thin layer. Leave to cool completely. 7 To make the icing, mix the cocoa powder with a few drops of boiling water from the kettle to make a paste. Using a stand or hand mixer, beat the butter with the icing sugar, until you have the appearance of fine breadcrumbs. Then add the hazelnut butter and cocoa paste. 8 Gradually add the milk whilst continually whipping the mixture. Keep mixing until it takes on a light, fluffy appearance, not dissimilar to whipped cream. This can take up to 5 minutes. 9 Using a palette knife, spread the icing over the top of the cake. Smash up the praline and place on top. Pearly King Cake, 17 Chandos Road, Bristol BS6 6PG; pearlykingcake.co.uk
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SPRING LOADED
Alison Golden, chef and owner of The Circus Restaurant, shares this delicious recipe from her new spring menu... MUSSELS WITH JAPANESE MISO (serves 4) 1kg fresh mussels from a reputable fishmonger 1 tbsp red miso paste glug of mirin 1 tbsp dried Cornish dulse red seaweed, chopped ½ garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp fresh ginger, grated 6 spring onions, finely chopped olive oil coriander, finely chopped, to garnish Method – Clean the mussels under running water and discard any that don’t shut when tapped on a hard surface. – Melt the miso in a splash of mirin and 120ml water, and add the chopped seaweed. – Mince the garlic, ginger and spring onions together. Then heat a glug of olive oil and add the mixture. – Add the cleaned mussels to the pan and then add the miso, mirin and seaweed broth. Cover the pan with a lid and cook until the mussels are well open (about 4 to 5 minutes). Discard any that are still shut after being steamed. – Taste the broth to check the seasoning. – Leaving the lid off, continue cooking until the cooking liquor has reduced a little – about 2 to 3 minutes. – Finish with the chopped coriander leaves and serve in bowls with crusty bread.
The Circus Restaurant, 34 Brock Street, Bath, BA1 2LN Tel: 01225 466020 x thecircusrestaurant www.thecircusrestaurant.co.uk
Book now
Mother’s Day 31st March
We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting. Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome.
PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION
Tunley Road, Tunley BA2 0EB • 01761 470408 Email: info@kingwilliaminn.co.uk • f T @kingwilliam84 www.kingwilliaminn.co.uk
Award Winning, Family Run Farm Shop Established for over 30 years Selling Quality Local Produce Open Daily 9am – 6pm (9.30am – 5pm on Sundays)
HOME & LOCALLY REARED FRESH MEAT, POULTRY & GAME HOMEMADE SAUSAGES, BURGERS & FAGGOTS
Easter orders now being taken
LOCAL CHEESES & HOME COOKED MEATS LOCALLY GROWN VEGETABLES, FRUIT & SALADS HOMEMADE CAKES & PIES LOCALLY MADE CHOCOLATES & FUDGE FINE WINE, LOCAL ALE & CIDER PRESERVES & CHUTNEYS GIFT HAMPERS
www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk | 01249 658112 Allington Bar Farm, Chippenham, SN14 6LJ
The Restaurant at Lowden is relaxed and informal, we focus on friendly service and the quality of ingredients. The chefs use our Farm Shop as their larder to prepare their daily menus. The Farm Shop is stocked with fresh vegetables, the Butchery with amazing local meat & the Deli with delicious cheese, olives, meats and scrumptious homemade goodies. We have been supplying plants, shrubs & trees to gardeners for over 20 years. Lowden also offers an inspiring selection of gift ideas for men, women, children & pets.
Bath Road, Shaw, Wiltshire, SN12 8EZ | 01225 702 345 www.lowdengardencentre.com @lowden_garden_centre
WHAT SUP? I DRINK, THEREFORE I AM
THE FINAL STRAWB PUT THIS NEW, LOCALLY MADE COCKTAIL SYRUP TO WORK IN A SUMMERY, BOOZE-FREE CONCOCTION…
Bristol Syrup Company has launched a brand new cocktail ingredient: the Strawberry Shrub. Shrubs are drinks that are often mixed into cocktails, and are made with fruit, sugar and vinegar. They’ve started to become more popular over the last decade, the guys at Bristol Syrup Company tell us, so the team decided to make a second, their first being the raspberry number that was part of the original range when the business launched in 2017. Dee Davies, co-creator of Bristol Syrup Company and creator of Jinzu gin, says, “We were so happy with our Raspberry Shrub, we decided to make a strawberry one. Lush, sticky strawberry contrasts with sharp cider and balsamic vinegar, finished with a hint of black pepper. Such a simple way of adding depth to your drinks.” This alcohol-free recipe makes the most of this juicy ingredient and has us lusting after hot summer afternoons so we can enjoy it as intended.
TEA-TOTALLY SERVES 1
large handful crushed ice 20ml Strawberry Shrub 10ml rosewater 50ml green tea, cooled 3 small basil leaves, plus extra to garnish 1 strawberry, to garnish Pour crushed ice into a glass and cover with the shrub, rosewater, green tea, and basil. Stir to mix, garnish with a spring of basil and the strawberry, and top up with more ice. bristolsyrupcompany.com
BEER • COFFEE • WINES • SPIRITS • MORE
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It’s ou section, der dnew ic to all thingsated suppable
Family or friends staying? Why not make the visit extra special and stay over at an OHH Pub. Save £10 when you book direct. Just visit www.ohhpubs.co.uk and at the point of reservation use this Promo Code: SAVE10
Tuesday night is Steak night Enjoy a mouth watering steak and homemade chips for just £10. Wash it all down with a fine bottle of House red wine for just £12. Served every Tuesday at all OHH Pubs 5pm - 9.30pm
Thursday night is Burger Night Choose from a selection of Chefs’ own burgers and homemade chips. All just £10. Served every Thursday at all OHH Pubs 5pm - 9.30pm
The Old House at Home: Near Castle Combe - 01454 218227 The Rose & Crown: Pucklechurch - 0117 329 3181 The Bear and Swan: Chew Magna - 01275 331100 The Rising Sun: Backwell - 01275 462215 The Northey Arms: Box - 01225 742333
www.ohhpubs.co.uk
COME AND TRY BRISTOL’S BEST LITTLE INDEPENDENT WRAP SHOP. Situated at 234 Cheltenham Road (on the corner with the pretty street art), serving out the finest in wrapped cuisine to suit all tastes. Meaty, Veggie or Vegan we’ve got you covered. Open 11am till 6pm Monday - Saturday, and 12pm till 4pm Sunday. Order on deliveroo or call & collect 01179 147985.
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THE DRIP FEED
HOT NEWS IN THE WORLD OF DRINKS
JUICY GOSSIP
THE DARK SIDE
TREN ALERTD!
Bristol Distilling Company has launched two gin liqueurs. The vibrant pink 77 Berry is flavoured with raspberry and pomegranate, while the paler 77 Blush – which we especially love for its juicy citrus notes – features grapefruit and rose. Both are made using the distillery’s flagship gin as a base. Great with a mixer for a less boozy, fruitier sip than a straight up G ’n’ T, they also work well in a glass of something gold and fizzy (we’re talking Prosecco, of course – please don’t pour it into your pint...). bristoldistilling.com
Those South West brewers are always up to something, aren’t they? Recently, a few have been working to give retro porter and stout an update, brewing new versions for modern drinkers. Mint-choc porter Mint Condition is the latest release from Wiltshire’s Box Steam Brewery with bitter and sweet notes in equal measure, and then there’s Salcombe Brewery’s silky and rich Island Street Porter – a stark departure from the light, hoppy brews that the brand is known for. Wild Beer has made the decision to launch its first stout in a can, too: the already well-loved sweet and salty Millionaire. Who’s next to come up with a 21st-century dark beer, we ask?
Q& A
IF YOU SPOT CAZ MILFORD – ASSISTANT PRODUCER AT BBC RADIO BRISTOL – IN HER FAVE WATERING HOLE, BE SURE TO CHALLENGE HER TO A BOARD GAME My local is The Green Man in Kingsdown – it’s a real hidden gem.
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BY GEORGE!
The Milk Thistle is a favourite late night spot for a number of reasons, not least its innovative conceptual cocktail menus – of which the newest has just been released. George the elk – who takes pride of place above the fireplace in the parlour – was the inspiration for this list of drinks. He’s been brought to life in the beautifully illustrated menu (said illustrations done by the bar’s talented assistant manager, Sarah Offa-Jones) as a rambling Bristolian who meets fellow critters on his travels, each of whom recommends a different drink. Just as much thought has gone into conceiving the concoctions themselves, too. The Rambler – whisky, chestnut, lemon, grapefruit bitters and IPA – surprises with a sharp bitterness and smooth, warming aftertaste, while The Wickerman smokes with scorched lavender. milkthistlebristol.com
I’m drinking either cider or gin – they have lots and lots of gins here. If I go for the latter it’s got to be a Psychopomp. Quite frankly, it’s delicious. And to eat it’s a Sunday roast with juicy beef. They do the best roast, always jampacked. It’s a bit of a wait, but so worth it! The best seat in the house is the table that’s tucked away in the corner, next to the bar. I always aim for this one; it’s perfect for people watching, and you can reach all the board games too.
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The crowd is really friendly, and a real mixture of ages. That’s not all, though – this place also has regular live music and the Green Man Festival in the summer, when they take the pub out onto the street. Basically, you should try my local because of the brilliant roasts and ace games. I mean, Save the Penguin is an absolute classic, but you could also just opt for Battleships or Shut The Box. facebook.com/ thegreenmanbristol
THE WINE GUY
RULE OF MUM
IF YOU’RE PLANNING TO TREAT THAT SPECIAL LADY THIS M-DAY, YOU COULD DO WORSE THAN TAKING ANDY CLARKE’S ADVICE...
O
ne thing I particularly love about our ultimate spa city is that you don’t have to venture far off the commercially beaten track to find culinary gems worth shouting about. Walk just a few minutes from Bath’s centre and it’s as if you’re in another region entirely. In 2015 the off-centre scene got even more interesting with the opening of Corkage on Walcot Street: an off-license, wine bar and small plates restaurant set up by seasoned drinkers and professional food fanciers Richard Knighting (also exec chef ) and Marty Grant. All the bottles that line the walls are handselected by the team and can be drunk on the
premises or taken home. The boys consciously decided to move away from formal drink lists and menus to encourage guests to try new wines and dishes, and engage more with each other. The format proved so popular that in 2017 a sister site opened on Chapel Row, in the heart of Bath, where grill-style food accompanies the small plates and wines. With Mothering Sunday just around the corner as I write, I’m keen not just to keep my own mum happy, but help all grown up kids of drinking age celebrate their mothers in the best way. And the food and wine I’ve chosen from Corkage should do the job nicely. The two dishes I have to tell you about are by Walcot Street head chef Tommy Albrecht.
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Tommy is from Hungary and travelled extensively before settling in the UK. He spent time in London working for the likes of Angela Hartnett and Gordon Ramsay prior to moving to Bath and taking up his position behind the compact Corkage hobs in 2017. And I have to hand it to him, he is coming up with some cracking food, particularly his confit sea trout with caramelised fennel, mint and Tabascolime mayonnaise, and roast cauliflower rarebit. The sips that I think Mum will love with these plates are both European white wines but with very different character. I’ve gone classic for my first pairing with Gallimard Père et Fils Cuvée de Reserve Champagne from Les Riceys in the Côtes des
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Bar. The wine is 100-percent Pinot Noir and first of all comes across as rich and buttery, but underneath this veil the wine is delicate with a beautifully soft bubble. As well as a hazelnut tone, there’s a redcurrant hint. The brioche-like quality is incredible with both the cauliflower and the mustard in the rarebit, while the ripe, honeyed flavours are the perfect partners for the caramelised fennel that accompanies the sea trout. There’s a zest that dazzles alongside the Tabasco-lime mayo, too. For an elegant and intriguing still white, Sclavus Efranor is a refined Grecian blend of Moscatela and Vostilidi, both native grapes to Greece. Made organically, this wine has a creamy texture and a minerality that is great with the roast cauliflower, as well as a fresh almond nuttiness that is perfect with the cheese, and a hint of rosewater-soaked apricots that couldn’t be better with the sea trout, fennel and mayo. I haven’t tasted such a lipsmackingly unique wine for a long time! So, whether you want to take your mum out for dinner or cook up a treat at home this Mother’s Day, with these combos she’s certainly in for a treat.
DRINK UP!
Sclavus Efranor 2016 is £44 a bottle to drink in or £25 to go, and Gallimard Père et Fils Cuvée de Reserve Blanc de Noirs Champagne is £10 a glass, £55 a bottle to drink in, and £35 to go, both at Corkage.
Andy Clarke is a TV producer and writer; follow him on Twitter @TVsAndyClarke; one4thetable.com
CONFIT SEA TROUT WITH CARAMELISED FENNEL SERVES 2 AS A SMALL PLATE
1 whole fennel bulb 4½ tbsp pomace oil 3 star anise pinch sugar splash Sagatiba 3½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 bay leaf 8 fennel seeds 10 pink peppercorns 4 sprigs thyme 1 sea trout fillet (approx. 150g) 1 tbsp mayonnaise splash Tabasco 1 lime, juice only handful mint leaves, chopped 1 To prepare the fennel bulb, first cut off the top and bottom. Slice it in half and cut into chunky pieces. Heat a large, heavybottomed pan over medium-high heat, add 1 tbsp pomace oil, then the fennel slices and 2 of the star anise. Season with salt, pepper and sugar. 2 Brown for about 3 minutes on each side and stir, making sure they caramelise evenly. Keep the heat on a high temperature and, when they are a nice brown colour – not black – add a good splash of Sagatiba, cover the pan and remove from the heat. Set aside to cool. 3 Mix the virgin olive oil with the remaining pomace oil. Add the bay leaf, fennel seeds, peppercorns and thyme, and heat to 42C. Place the sea trout into the oil for about 15-20 minutes, or until the flesh flakes apart easily. Then remove the fillet, lay it on a paper towel and pat dry.
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4 Mix the mayonnaise with Tabasco and lime juice to your taste. 5 To plate, place the cooked fennel into a bowl and gently flake the fish over. Mix and check the seasoning, adding salt, pepper and lime juice if required. Spoon the mix onto a plate, garnish with the mayonnaise and sprinkle with the mint.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH WELSH RAREBIT SERVES 2 AS A SMALL PLATE
1 cauliflower head (approx. 400g) good glug olive oil 90g butter 166ml beer 30g mustard powder 500g strong Cheddar, grated 6 egg yolks 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. 2 Cut the cauliflower into 4-5 cm florets. Spread on a baking tray, drizzle with the oil and season. Roast in the oven for around 15 minutes, until softened but not mushy. 3 Meanwhile, combine the butter, beer and mustard powder in a pan and heat though, being careful not to let the mixture boil. Stir in the Cheddar and let it melt. Blend the mix in a food processor to get a smooth texture, then allow it to cool until it is warm to the touch, but not cold. Add the egg yolks to the food processor and blend the ingredients together briefly. 4 Pour the Welsh rarebit over the roasted cauliflower and place under a hot grill until it turns golden brown on top. We garnish with crispy sage leaves or toasted quinoa. corkagebath.com
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Join us for Afternoon tea at the Buddha Tea Barn! BOOKINGS: 01225 872728 The Crown / Buddha Tea Barn, 500 Bath Road, Saltford, BS31 3HJ www.thecrowninsaltford.com f thecrowninsaltford
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U N D E R -T H E - R A DA R HANGOUTS
THE GOLD BAR
TALK ABOUT HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT – THIS BAR IS A GEM OF A CITY CENTRE FIND, THINKS JESSICA CARTER
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otel bars are where great nights out go to die. If the lack of atmosphere doesn’t kill them, the late opening hours mean these places attract the ones that are already on their last legs. When it’s late and options are few, but giving up the ghost isn’t a favourable choice quite yet, they can be seen limping towards a hotel in search of a final resting place. The fact that you can’t see into most hotel bars from the street – thanks to the nature of them being, you know, inside hotels – doesn’t help. Wondering through the lobby and down corridors only to potentially find the bar devoid of atmosphere (not to mention punters) isn’t ideal. So, these places never really top the list of joints to hit up for a cocktail or three when you’re planning a drink with mates. I mean, I’ve never before thrown The Gold Bar – the offering at Bristol Harbour Hotel – into the hat. Thing is, though, it feels nothing like a hotel bar – and not just because it has its own entrance. The Gold Bar is not, as someone asked the morning after my visit, a bar that’s
entirely coated in gold. Bristol Harbour Hotel, as you may well know, is housed in two former banks in Bristol’s historic financial centre – so the name is alluding more to bars of gold than an overenthusiastic order of metallic leaf by the interior designer. Instead, the space is elegant with a well-judged dose of art deco style and colourful eccentricity. The bar itself is marble topped with gold glass racks above and a mirrored backbar, and the space it occupies spills out into several small rooms with parquet flooring and a mix of velvet-upholstered seating and colourful armchairs – of which we found the largest pair to make ourselves at home in. Menus are bound in soft leather, the logo embossed in gold foil on the front. The first pages are dedicated to cocktails – unusual ones, with illustrations – and then come wines, spirits and beers. The apothecary feel of The Pharmacist saw it become first pick and, featuring South West-made Pothecary Gin, crème de cassis, crème de voilette and vermouth, it was a dark berry-coloured drink that had fruity characteristics (without being overtly
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sweet) and a whisper of medicinal flavour. Edible flowers rested on the chunky ice cubes that clinked satisfyingly in the heavybottomed rocks glass. Also among our picks was the Sparkling Goose. At £17.50 it sits at the top end of the price spectrum (the majority of concoctions hover around a more approachable tenner). The blend of Grey Goose Citron Vodka, Champagne, Chambord and passion fruit purée made for a surprisingly smooth drink, the fizz used less for its evanescence than its nicely dry bite, which rounded off the sweeter passion fruit. Scallop shells – no doubt procured from the hotel’s seafood restaurant, The Jetty – are employed as tiny plates for popcorn to nibble on while you drink, a la the continent, and table service is in operation. This chic city centre bar – with its cool interior and great cocktails – shall evade me no more.
The Gold Bar, Bristol Harbour Hotel, 55 Corn Street, Bristol BS1 1HT; 0117 203 4445; harbourhotels.co.uk
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GETTING THE BEST FROM THOSE APPLES Ashridge cider maker Jason Mitchell explains…
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t was the start of something special when many years ago, Jason Mitchell, Ashridge cider maker, met an old Devonian cider maker called Cyril. “He taught me all about cider,” says Jason. “Cyril was an engineer, and understood how the process worked and what was needed, so he built his own press. We have his press at Ashridge now. “It’s all about the pressing and how to treat the juice,” he continues. “Importantly, we use all types of cider apples from old traditional orchards, which makes the cider more complex. Dabinetts, Browns Apple, Ellis Bitter, Tremlett’s Bitter, Slack-ma-Girdle and many more. The apples are washed and pressed and the juice collected in tanks. “It’s quite complex because certain apple yeasts will start off the fermentation, and as it goes on, others take over. It’s important to have a long, slow and cool fermentation. Some ciders only ferment for 5-7 days, but we allow ours to take six months at least. “Cyril certainly knew how to get the best from his apples,” adds Jason, “and we hope he’d approve of what we do today.” Try NEW Devon Gold – a lighter summer cider, lower alcohol and easy to drink. 4.5% abv.
ashridgecider.co.uk; @AshridgeCider; 01364 654749
Each medium (12oz, or 400ml) Huskup costs £10.95 (or £11.95 for the Harry Potter designs), or you can buy bundles of four or 12; huskup.com
CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS You know how I hate throwaway coffee cups? Partially it’s because I really care about the environment… And partially it’s because you’re really tight, so you love the little discounts you get at your favourite beans, beards and braces emporium each time you take your own container in? Yes, I’ve got you sussed. Which is why I’ve got this little beauty for you: a handsome reusable coffee cup, perfect for each morning’s on-the-hoof pick-me-up, with extra eco-credentials. Greenpeace still reckons only one percent of single-use takeaway cups are ever recycled – in fact most of them can’t be, as their cardboard is lined with plastic – so why not take them out of the equation entirely? I would, I’m totally keen, but I’m baffled by all the choice. Everyone seems to be offering reusables these days, and they all look totally different. Some are short and fat, some are tall and thin – and they can’t all be the right size, surely? Actually, most of them are designed to take standard coffee sizes, but I do feel your pain. Even when you’ve picked a style you like, how can you possibly know which reusable cups are most leak-proof, will last the longest and will keep your coffee nice and hot? You can’t. Not easily, no. So what I’m recommending you do is go as green as possible, all while supporting small local businesses too. How? By investing in a Huskup, which is good and durable, made from a toxin free, biodegradable waste material – rice husks – and tough enough to survive the dishwasher, the microwave, and anything else you might throw at it. Each one comes with a reusable, recyclable silicone lid and sleeve to prevent spills and make it easier to hold. Perhaps best of all, they couldn’t be more local, being created last year by Bath lad Richard Milton. I like the cool designs on the side. Richard launched with a range of 12, some plain but with brightly coloured lids and sleeves – allowing the light brown husk’s natural texture to shine through – and some designed by local artists. The well-liked ThumbsUp version is by Frome-based Donna Sarah, who’s also contributed a series of monochrome styles inspired by the natural world (pebbles, sticks and so on), while Natasha Kirby offers muted vintage-style florals.
huSK IT!
HANDSOME, ECO-FRIENDLY AND ADMIRED BY A CERTAIN WELL-KNOWN AUTHOR, BATH’S HUSKUP REUSABLE TAKEAWAY CUPS KEEP YOUR COFFEE WARM AND MAKE SAVING THE PLANET COOL, SAYS MATT BIELBY
Pretty cool! And it gets cooler, for later this year four official Harry Potter designs will be available too, including a Marauder’s Map-themed one and another starring everyone’s favourite cringing house elf, Dobby.
THIS MONTH • HUSK ’TIL DAWN • FINDERS KEEPERS • WINNING ONE-OFFS
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Independent café & restaurant run by three friends in Bristol. Hungarian food, fresh pressed juices, homemade cakes & loads of love. Opening hours: Monday – Thursday: 9am – 4pm Friday – Saturday: 9am – 10pm Sunday: 9am – 5pm
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deckcafebristol
365 Gloucester Rd, Bristol BS7 8TN
CAKES / COFFEE / CLASSES Delicious cakes by the slice and to order, all made in our tiny bakery on Chandos Road. We can cater to any dietary requirement, so no-one has to miss out on cake! Pearly King Cake, 17 Chandos Road, Bristol, BS6 6PG 01173294334 pearlykingcake.co.uk f a
House Call
HUNTING & GATHERING
THIS BATH KITCHEN IS FULL OF UNIQUE FINDS, HANDMADE FURNITURE AND INTRIGUING STORIES...
WORDS BY JESSICA CARTER PHOTOS BY ALICE WHITBY
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t’s pretty challenging to conjure an image that matches Rebecca’s description of the way this kitchen was when she moved in. The adjectives we’re hearing are total antonyms of the space around us – dark, dank and cramped, you say? We just can’t see it. Rebecca Whittaker and husband Harry sure had vision when they took on this derelict old building, it seems (“The house would almost wobble when you were on the top floor,” we’re told). Built around 1800, the beautiful Bath stone house had this particular room added at the turn of the next century and, when the couple bought it in 2011, the extension sported a low, flat roof, one tiny window and carpet tiles. Luckily, Harry is an architect (and an experienced one at that, of 27 years). Even luckier, he specialises in old buildings, as an accredited conservation architect. “My mum and dad were architects,” he says. “Dad worked a lot with the National Trust and taught the history of architecture, too.”
A stylish blend of old and new, this kitchen’s modern glass wall lets the daylight flood into the bright space, with all its bare Bath stone and marble floor
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H O U S E
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Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00 | Sunday to Monday: 09:00 - 15:00
H O U S E
The vase in the middle of the top shelf was a battery in a former life, while the ceramic spoons to the right came from a café in Italy – given to the pair by their server
Harry and Rebecca – who works as a relationship therapist – moved here from Shrewsbury, and Harry set up his business, Bath Conservation Architects, last year. Despite his expertise, Harry’s was far from the only input when redesigning this house. Rebecca has an interest in interiors and design that began long before she even met her architect husband. “This marble,” she says, her hand resting on a gorgeous slab that tops the kitchen island, “I’ve had for years, carrying it with me every time I moved. I knew I’d use it one day!” The couple are both well-practiced in hunting down interesting finds like this, with nearly everything I point out having been discovered in a second-hand shop, on eBay, or even in a skip. The pasta maker that Harry prizes was found at a jumble sale, and the glass coffee cups that Rebecca loves the most came from a café in Italy (she didn’t steal them, mind – honest). Even the vintage AGA came from their favourite online marketplace.
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C A L L
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“We had no idea if it was even going to work,” says Rebecca. “It was delivered in pieces – we’ve had some very strange experiences with eBay deliveries!” Harry built the kitchen cabinets – painted a dark, charcoal blue – himself, and repurposed a ping-pong table that was made for him as a child into a gorgeously rustic dining table. Shelves at the back display characterful knick-knacks – including retro glass SodaStreams, earthenware jugs and basins, an oldschool citrus press and vintage glassware. There’s even a vase that was once a glass battery. Thanks largely, we’d assume, to their eBay habit, the pair are constantly updating and tweaking the space – but not just for themselves. They list the house – which can sleep six – on Airbnb, meaning they move out to make way for guests a couple of times a month. Staring out of the floor-to-ceiling glass at the front of the kitchen onto the pretty courtyard, we could think of worse settings for a weekend away. bathconservationarchitects.com
KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL Name: Rebecca and Harry Whittaker. Hometown: Bradford-on-Avon. Occupations: Relationship therapist and architect. Must-have kitchen item: A coffee machine. Most prized item: Our coffee percolator for Harry, and the marble sink for Rebecca. Coffee or tea? Tea for Rebecca, coffee for Harry. Beer or cider? Wine! Wash or dry? Rebecca washes and Harry dries. Favourite condiment: Horseradish sauce. Five people you’d invite to your dinner party, dead or alive: Cesar Milan, Nicholas Parsons, Rebecca’s grandma, Norman Wisdom and Mr Bean. The style of your kitchen in three words: Warm, dry, sunny. Your kitchen is awesome because... it’s the place where we spend all our mornings and evenings – and lunchtimes, for that matter. If you could change one thing about it, it would be… two of the marble slabs – they have age stains. Unexpected item in your kitchen cupboard: A ricci tool (for opening sea urchins). One thing your kitchen is used for that doesn't involve cooking or eating: Sunbathing!
Rebecca admired these little coffee glasses so much during a meal in an Italian café that the owner gave them to her
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K I T C H E N
A R M O U R Y
The Want List INSPIRED BY REBECCA AND HARRY’S KITCHEN, WE’VE BEEN HUNTING FOR VINTAGE ONE-OFFS AND RETRO-LOOK KITCHENWARE...
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1 Meraki Basin, £15 By Danish designer Meraki, this classic-look basin would be a stylishly understated addition to any kitchen. Find it at Mon Pote in Bristol; monpote.co.uk 2 Chinese cocktail shaker, £65 An original 1920s bit of bar kit with detailed dragon engraving, this will sure be a conversation starter at cocktail parties. From Rag and Bone, Bristol; ragandbonebristol.com 3 Vintage Style Citrus Press, £19.99 As great for juicing lemons as for displaying on your kitchen shelf, this press has both form and function. Grab yours from Lakeland in Bath or Bristol; lakeland.co.uk 4 Ferm Living Ripple Champagne Saucer, £29 These retro-look glasses are stylish vessels for fizz – or maybe even dessert. Find them in sets of two at Resident in Frome; residentstore.co.uk 5 Vintage Champagne Bowl, £40 This is a great find, engraved with the 180-year-old winemaker De Venoge’s branding – we found it at Bath’s underground Champagne bar, where everything is for sale. From Comptoir and Cuisine; comptoirpluscuisine.com
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Brockley Stores, Main Road, Brockley, North Somerset BS48 3AT
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CELEBRATING OUR 1 ST ANNIVERSARY Fresh homemade food & cake Large terrace Wifi Certificate of excellence 2018 (Trip Advisor) 99 QUEENS ROAD, CLIFTON BS8 1LW
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Perfecto Coffee provides the best coffee machine and grinder combination to give you the benefit of freshly ground coffee in every cup of coffee.
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marKetpLace
To advertise call 01225 475800
Clifton’s Independent Greengrocer
Quality produce that is seasonal and local where possible. Varieties and prices that you often won’t find in the supermarkets. Open Monday to Saturday 9-6, Sunday 11-4 6, Boyces Avenue, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4AA | 0117 9706777
R U : 9’ YO ER S1 FF D B O OR UM % T R 10 I R S E ‘ C F T O U
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Wholesale Sourdough bakery
07542457965 • info@pistrina.co.uk • pistrina.co.uk
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Gluten free dairy fr , ee & vegan options
07891211852 | 01225 684936 21 Claverton buildings, Bath BA2 4LD b thecakery-@hotmail.com | thecakerybath.co.uk
Reach the best in the west Affluent, active and influential and just a call away Call Natalie 01225 475824
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BATH’S BEST BUTCHER
Locally grown vegetables, fresh fruit, eggs, meat, milk and loads more. 8c Chelsea Road, Bath BA1 3DU 01225 464777 • 07903 189495 • chelsearoadgreengrocer.co.uk
Fabul Fmed Ty i g Fo & Dri
I discovered Larkhall Butchers last year and they made my Easter, I wouldn’t go anywhere else. Natalie – Larkhall customer
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Kim Ktup Nat & Liv en
Cont Li in@tulho.o.k mo ta bacree farte
wanT to e S i t r E v d a herE? Contact Crumbs
01225 475835
1 Lambridge Buildings, Bath BA1 6RS 01225 313 987 | info@larkhallbutchers.co.uk larkhallbutchers.co.uk
MA INs TOP CULINARY CAUSES, INSIDER KNOWLEDGE AND FOOD PIONEERs
HIGHLIGHTS
60 RETAIL THERAPY HOW TO ACE YOUR GROCERY SHOP
63 ON THE GLO GLOUCESTER ROAD HAS SOME SERIOUS CULINARY A-GAME
Suncraft has quickly become a go-to on GloRoad for its hearty plantbased food
INCLUDING!
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H AT T I E E L L I S
RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS FROM THE FOOD PROS
Our region’s local indie shops come in all shapes and sizes to make the foodie retail scene an exciting one
AFTER RECENT REPORTS THAT CONSUMERS COULD WELL BE FACING HIKED PRICES ON SOME IMPORTED INGREDIENTS WHEN WE LEAVE THE EU, WE’VE BEEN LOOKING AT HOW WE COULD ALL BENEFIT FROM CHANGING OUR SHOPPING HABITS... Compare many of our streets with themselves 50 years ago, and you might notice something’s gone missing. That something is retail, with neighbourhood grocery shops fewer and further between than they once were. Supermarkets have reshaped the way we shop. Time-strapped punters look to them for smashing out a quick shop at minimum cost between finishing work and cooking dinner. Hey, convenience is great – we have lives to live. Thing is, our shopping habits
can have more of an impact on said lives than we might realise. Chris Edwards is founder of Good 60, an online platform for local, independent retailers to sell their food and drink. He’s driven by the idea that money spent in small businesses is 60-percent more beneficial to the local community then if it were spent at a supermarket. It’s about “driving money back into your local community, which will help our streets in Bristol and Bath remain diverse
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and independent,” he says. “I’ve lived near Bristol’s Gloucester Road all my life and, after a bit of a decline, I’ve seen a new surge in support for its independent retailers. I think locals have seen what can happen to high streets when shoppers are lured to outof-town veg box schemes and supermarkets.”
ALL CHANGE
The way that we shop is constantly evolving – life doesn’t follow the familiar routine that
M A I N S
it once did. As a result, the weekly ‘big shop’, for example, seems to be in decline. “Shopping has become little and often,” says Rob Hagen, owner of Brockley Stores. “Lots of people are now coming in to buy food for later on the same day.” Perhaps that’s partly to do with people being more adventurous in the kitchen, trying new recipes and generally mixing up dinnertime. Peter Molesworth, of Molesworth’s of Henleaze butchers, has certainly noticed that people are doing smaller, daily purchasing of ingredients for specific dishes – something that indie stores can often accommodate better than bigger ones: “They come to us as we can provide what the supermarket doesn’t sell, or in quantities they don’t sell.” Above all the other needs shaping our shopping habits, though, is perhaps that of convenience. Rich Osborn founded online retailer Fresh Range to help tackle this; the site makes it possible to shop from multiple high street grocery stores in one fell swoop – even while you’re on the move. “People want to do their food shopping when they have a spare moment,” he says. “More and more customers are moving to the online channel as a part of their overall weekly grocery shopping. The percentage of our customers ordering on mobile has doubled in the past two years; more order on mobile than any other device.” Food on the go just got a whole new meaning, hey? As well as personal circumstance, there are also plenty of outside influences that have a bearing on our shopping habits – just like that estimated 40-percent tariff on imported food, post-Brexit, that you may have read about recently. Indeed, it was a similarly scary but very different headline that, 18 years ago, changed the custom of many indie retailers – including Allington Farm Shop. “During the foot and mouth crisis, the farm shop suffered a dramatic decline and the family considered closing the shop,” says Naomi Reynolds. “However, once the crisis passed the public really began to take more of an interest in where their food was coming from and the family began to see a growing demand for the produce they were selling.” Fast forward to 2019, and this kind of assurance of the provenance of our food is something more of us expect – and to a greater degree. It’s a result not only of crises like the one of 2001, but also the exposure of animal welfare issues and recognition of the effect food production has on the planet. People are taking responsibility for the food they choose to buy and the systems they vote for with their grocery money.
Better Food is a Bristol-based group of ethically led grocery shops, and has found a similar shift in consumers’ interests. “There has been a huge tidal change towards shopping for a sustainable lifestyle, and this very much includes organic, as people are discovering how closely our health, the land and our communities are connected,” says their Laura Elliot.
CULINARY CONUNDRUMS
So, shoppers are more ethically minded – great stuff. But these demands can conflict, creating new challenges. “People are a lot more concerned by organics, provenance and being plastic-free,” says Hugo Sapsed of Hugo’s greengrocer. “However, these trends can often negate each other; the product might be ‘naked’ [non-shrink wrapped] but from Peru; it might be organic but wrapped in plastic. So, it’s important to find a middle ground.” And the challenges for small food retailers don’t stop there, either. From running costs to lack of parking, modern life throws many a spanner in the works. Take the desperately low prices those retail giants instate; Peter Molesworth finds that it can be tempting for customers to compare prices at indie outlets with those at the supermarket – although, as they might not realise, “it’s just not like-forlike quality.” Then there’s the task of making sure you’re accommodating the needs of as wide an audience as possible, to get your punters coming back time after time. “A big challenge – but one of the most fun things about being in independent food retail – is keeping up with the changing shopping habits of all your customers,” says Rob Hagen. “We cater for people from many backgrounds, so you can’t take a onesize-fits-all approach. You need laser-like precision to decide what to change, what to keep, what to bring in.” Doing this, though, can really cement a shop’s success. Mark Barry from the Deli at Sandy Park certainly thinks this constant tweaking is imperative to keeping a business healthy and shoppers happy. It’s all, ultimately, about customer service. “It’s simple,” he says. “We get to know our customers and accommodate their requests and tastes – and that in turn helps shape our business. Even some local chains can vastly improve their customer interaction.”
SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT
There are plenty of things that our local indies can offer which retail giants just can’t.
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Take the freshness and traceability of their produce, for instance. Some farm shops, like Allington, are right next to the farm where the produce is grown and the animals are reared, and are often run by the farmers themselves. This means the produce is likely going to be fresher – making it better tasting and more nutritious. And, as it won’t have travelled far and probably has minimal packaging, it’s not half bad for Mother Earth, either. Then there are the people: when those serving you are the ones that grew – or ordered, butchered or cooked – what you’re buying, they’re going to have some serious knowledge to tap into. Want to know how to cook a specific cut of meat? Where something is grown? What recipe you could use an ingredient in? Go on, try them. You’ll not only probably get some great tips, but also a wholly more enjoyable shopping trip out of it, too. “Local shops offer conversation most importantly,” says Hugo Sapsed. “There’s always a chat to be had. Sometimes when we sell a product, we need to tell someone about how to cook it, where it has come from or how it was grown. Other times you might discuss their day, how the family is and what they’re up to. I think this is such a special part of shopping on the high street, to have a personal connection with the shop owner – not with a robot.” Indeed, Pete from Larkhall Butchers sites this as the most enjoyable thing about his work: “I think the joy of independent shopping is mostly in the personal touch. Getting to know our customers both inside and outside of work is a wonderful feeling.”
HIGH (STREET) HOPES
So, could things be looking up somewhat for traditional retail? It does seem like more and more high street-esque areas are springing up with a variety of specialist outlets – think Gloucester Road, Wapping Wharf and North Street in Bristol, and Larkhall in Bath. “We have such a wide selection of shops in our vicinity that we are, in a way, like a one stop shop,” says Pete. “We draw people who want the convenience of getting everything in one place without having to brave the bustle (and parking nightmare) of Bath.” Indeed, the more we use our small, local indie shops, the more of them there will be. Mark Barry really thinks shoppers are behind this movement too, noting that he’s seeing a “deliberate attempt to support independent local business.” This kind of traditional shopping might well see our high streets healthy again.
FanCy wOrkiNg at crumBs?
Deli @ Sandy Park We are a neighbourhood deli aiming to serve our local community with an ever evolving range of best of local, regional and continental products.
We're on the hunt for bright sparks looking to forge careers in media sales. If you’re passionate about food and drink, and have love for our local independent businesses, then we may have the job for you. It’s all about working with clients to curate, pitch and deliver advertising campaigns across our pretty awesome food magazines and digital channels. Sound like your cup of tea? Email your CV to jo.cains@mediaclash.co.uk or give us a call on 01225 475800 for a chat.
Cheese Charcuterie Home baked sweets Savouries tel: 0117 971 3199
e mail: deli.at.sandypark@outlook.com 10 Sandy Park Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 3PE
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H AT T I E E L L I S
IT’S GLO TIME
PROBABLY THE MOST FAMOUS ROAD IN THE CITY, THIS STRETCH IN NORTH BRISTOL IS A COLOURFUL HUB OF INDEPENDENT BUSINESS, AMONGST WHICH IS A RICH AND EVER-EVOLVING COLLECTION OF RESTAURANTS AND BARS. HERE ARE JUST SOME OF THE REASONS WE HEART THE HIGHLY INDEPENDENT GLOUCESTER ROAD...
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Bringing healthy fast food to Bristol Temple Meads every day! “As soon as I had the idea for a cafe on the train station, I knew instantly that this was it. A chance to provide some really good, wholesome food that is loved and created by real people with a passion for using healthy and nutritious ingredients. Of course not forgetting a decadent slice of cake or two and some high quality independent coffee from the guys at Extract.”
FIND US Good & Proper Bristol, Unit 6 Temple Meads, Bristol, BS1 6EB Open bright and early from 5am, Monday to Friday, and also open on weekends! goodandproperbristol.com
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AMAZING VALUE LUNCH DEALS STUDENT AND NUS DISCOUNTS CLIFTON: 83 Whiteladies Road, Bristol, BS8 2NT | 01173 290887 BEDMINSTER: 240 North Street, Bristol, BS3 1JD | 01173 292790
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M A I N S
From left to right: The Gallimaufry, Hobbs House Bakery and The Grace
THE SAN FRAN VIBES AND IMAGINATIVE BRUNCHES AT BAKERS AND CO
Inspired by the cool, laid back joints of California, this place knocks out great coffee and refreshingly individual brunches, ranging from generous bowls of porridge with apple and honey to ‘morning toast’ with cinnamon and orange sugar, banana, toasted almonds and maple syrup. Sourdough is baked onsite by head chef Brett St Clair, who came from Bertinet – so the ‘on toast’ section is worth a look, too. Pastries and cakes are on the money (get involved with a sticky bun), as are, we hear, the new roast salsify and oyster mushroom tacos with cashew cream.
THE HEARTY ITALIAN PORTIONS AT BOMBOLONI
If anyone has ever left this place hungry we’ll eat our figurative hats. The Italian-style food served here is straightforward and unfussy, but cooked with great skill and care (owner Andrew Griffin is a long-serving and wellknown chef on the Bristol food scene) using top-drawer ingredients. If you’re a meat eater, we dare you to pass up on the slow-cooked ox cheek ragu with porcini mushrooms and silky tagliatelle. Run as a real family affair (there are plenty of Griffins involved here), this place is super inviting and family friendly.
THE HUNGARIAN GRUB AT DECK CAFÉ
This homely café (and restaurant – dinner is served on Friday and Saturday nights) cooks great breakfasts – think brekkie burritos and pancakes as well as the full English – alongside some lesser-seen Hungarian dishes for lunch,
like goulash with sourdough bread and beef stew with homemade noodles and pickles. A valuable member of the globally inspired Gloucester Road gang, it’s started running new Hungarian wine dinners too, the next taking place on 23 March.
THE SMALL SURPRISES AT THE GRACE
A neighbourhood pub at heart, this casual, friendly boozer has a great collection of local beers and spirits to while away rainy Saturday afternoons with (as we have in the past) or, if the sun is shining, take out to the decked garden to sip on while catching some rays. While the pub attitude is very much prevalent here, there also happens to be a kitchen knocking out some really imaginative small plates, like cauliflower pakora with guindilla and raita (which we hear is flying out) and pig’s head croquette with gribiche and baby gem.
THE BUILD-YOUR-OWN BREAKFAST AT HOBBS HOUSE This Gloucester Road café opened in August 2017, although the family behind Hobbs House has been creating loaves for five generations. So, it’s unsurprising that great bread is at the core of this place, and plays an integral role on the brunch menu. You can create the perfect toast-based brekkie at this relaxed daytime spot: choose your bread, how you want your eggs, and any extras you fancy piling on top (think smashed avo, halloumi, smoked salmon et al).
THE BUZZ OF THE GALLIMAUFRY This fun restaurant, bar and music venue is perfectly illustrative of the eclectic, buzzy, community-minded nature of Gloucester
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Road. Friendly and familiar, it’s not only a great haunt after dark (just ask its merry band of happy regulars) with a busy schedule of live performances, but also knocks up some really great quality dishes made from local and seasonal ingredients. A selection of small plates sits alongside full-sized brunch, lunch and dinner dishes (give the hand-rolled squid ink tagliatelle with octopus, mussels and rocket a whirl) and there’s a bargain of an early evening offering too, with two courses for £14.
THE COMFORT FOOD AT THE HOBGOBLIN
If you don’t mind returning to the scene of the crime (i.e. the pub) this boozer can hook you up with some hangover-banishing comfort food. Being a proper pub first and foremost, The Hobgoblin is relaxed and informal, so you can get your carb fix in peace without fear of breaching etiquette. The Dirty, Dirty Fries have become something of an institution here: picture a mountain of fries mixed with housesmoked pulled pork, spices and barbecue sauce, then topped with heaps of melted Cheddar, blue cheese and coriander mayo.
THE SAUSAGE PARTY AT PIGSTY
From the guys behind sausage producer The Jolly Hog, this restaurant is British through and through, with quality, high-welfare pork at its heart. The porky black sausage roll, featuring black pudding and apple sausage meat from Jolly Hog sausages, and the ‘whole hogs’ – tender pork belly, slow-cooked overnight and served with crispy crackling, home-made apple sauce and slaw in a fresh bun – are two of the most popular choices. We also love the sausage and mash, washed down with a cider.
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M A I N S
From left to right: Suncraft, Rocotillos and Spicer and Cole
THE SUPER SOURDOUGH CRUSTS AT PIZZAROVA
Beneath the fresh toppings on these pizzas you’ll find a really flavoursome sourdough base. Its quality is down, in part, to the slow proving method – allowing the dough to develop for four days before being cooked – as well as the starter culture, which is more than 70 years old. Choose either a Margarita, the ever-changing special (think béchamel with butifarra sausage, tenderstem broccoli, chilli and parmesan), or the create-your-own option, where you can pick from around 10 toppings. Visiting for lunch? Check out the £5 pizza and salad deal.
THE AMERICAN ATTITUDE AT ROCOTILLOS
Established for more than 25 years, Rocotillos is a US-style diner and bar on G-Road. These days a more grown-up version of the original concept – and quite different from its Clifton sister site – it serves quality cocktails and runs daily happy hour deals. Food-wise, there are a few signatures, like the breakfast pancakes and classic homemade burgers, and a great menu of veggie tacos too, which are really popular and ideal for sharing. Elsewhere, expect a range of breakfasts, hotdogs, sandwiches, fries, milkshakes, beers and wine. (Um, that should just about do it, right?)
THE INCLUSIVITY AT SPICER AND COLE
The client base at this well-known daytime joint (the Bristol-born brand has several other branches across the city, too) is pretty varied – but that’s exactly what you’d expect of a laidback lunch spot on this patch. Parents, students and traders have all made it their regular,
enjoying the fresh breakfasts and lunches that are made every day on site – be they eating in or on the run. The brunch dishes are probably the most popular, with the sweet potato hash with harissa and halloumi taking the top spot, owner Carla Swift tells us, closely followed by the obligatory avo on sourdough toast.
THE PLANT-BASED SATISFACTION AT SUNCRAFT
A restaurant and takeaway, Suncraft has created a new kind of ‘fast food’ on Gloucester Road, with its speedy and satisfying bowls of plant-based goodness to eat in or take out. The vegan scene is already buzzing at this end of town, but this brightly coloured, globally inspired diner has stepped the game up even further. As all dishes – and even some of the drinks – are made fresh in the kitchen each day, you can expect optimum flavour and nutrition. The aromatic coconut laksa is a fave, and we loved the gochujang stew with Korean rice cakes on our last visit.
THE EVER-CHANGING BEANS AT TINCAN COFFEE CO
You need not have the same bean twice at
this laid back specialist coffee shop. The filter options are single origin and regularly rotate, so we love trying the new brew on the block each time we visit. The coffee here is sourced by direct trade with the coffee farmers to ensure it’s procured ethically and at a fair price, and it’s roasted by Clifton Coffee. To eat, the café has just introduced new veggie and vegan savoury pastries, made by the Tincan chefs over in the North Street shop. There’s a variety of cakes on the go, too – again with vegan options.
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MORE G-ROAD MUST VISITS – AS RECOMMENDED BY THE LOCAL FOOD PROS “Jeans Bistro does the best Thai food in the city. It pains me to tell anyone about it because I don’t want it to be harder to get a table than it already is!” Paul Marsh, Bakers and Co “Oh Calcutta – I’ve been going ever since it opened.” Jessie Nicolson, Tincan “St. Mary’s Kitchen (okay, technically Cheltenham Road) for proper homecooked Caribbean cuisine, and Simply Thai for some blow-your-head-off-hot (in a really good way) papaya salad, larb and other South East Asian goodies.” James Ayliffe, The Hobgoblin “We like a drink at the Bristol Flyer!” Katy Pook, Pigsty “We’re big fans of Burger Bear, which has popped up recently on the Gloucester Road. Tom and the guys from there were regular visitors when fitting out their new shack just down the hill from us, so we got to know them well. Highly recommended.” Jack Lander, Pizzarova
Have we missed off your fave Gloucester Road haunt? Tweet us your pics @crumbsmag!
SOMERSET SPRING LAMB LOCAL FOOD WITH FLAVOUR
NEW MENU
Raised on organic Puxton Farm pastures
Find a little sunshine on Gloucester Road at The Blue Lagoon!
LOCAL PRODUCE All our food from our fre sh, seasonal menus can be traced ba ck to independent suppliers th at are locally sourced within a 25 mile radius.
Modern farms, traditional butchers A classic butchers counter, preparing the best quality meat sourced from our own as well as the surrounding Somerset farms. The butchery at Puxton sells traditionallyreared farm fresh meat, poultry and game. Our friendly, skilled butchers can offer advice and will ensure that your meat is prepared to your exact requirements.
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 9.00am - 5.30pm The Promenade, 18/20 Gloucester Road, Bristol BS7 8AE 0117 942 7471 | www.thebluelagooncafebar.com
Puxton Park, Cowslip Lane, Hewish, BS24 6AH 01934 523507 www.puxton.co.uk
Welcome to Mantra, an Indian Restaurant in the heart of Bath, that specialises in serving progressive Indian food. Mantra is a family run authentic Indian restaurant. Our dishes are healthily packed with flavour, crunch, punch and zing offering plenty of choice to vegetarians and vegans.Inspired by seasonal ingredients, our food contains only the freshest produce prepared in a way that captures the amazing diversity of India’s regional cuisines and childhood street food memories. 5, Bladud Buildings, The Paragon, Bath BA1 5LS Tel: 01225 446 332 Email: info@mantraofbath.co.uk | www.mantraofbath.co.uk
AFTERS
NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM
HIGHLIGHTS
74 ATE 0'CLOCK
WE EAT AT EIGHT, A NEW BATH GAFF WITH A UNIQUE CONCEPT
77 SPOTTED!
DINNER AT COSY NEIGHBOURHOOD PUB THE SPOTTED COW
80 CIRCUS TRICKS
THERE'S SOMETHING FAMILIAR ABOUT THE CIRCUS RESTAURANT
Crumbs woz ’ere (literally – this was our table for dinner at Eight)
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AMBITIOUS, RELAXED, AND WITH AN ADMIRABLE COMMITMENT TO DIETARY REQUIREMENTS, BATH’S LATEST BOUTIQUE HOTEL HITS THE GROUND RUNNING, SAYS MATT BIELBY
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ometimes you come across a new business and think, ‘What are they doing?’ The food might be great, but the service terrible. The location is spot-on, but the interior design woeful. Other times, you rock up and they’ve nailed every aspect, right off the bat. So it is with Eight, a slick townhouse hotel tucked away next to Bath’s Abbey, on the same pedestrianised walkway as Sally Lunn’s, Acorn and The Hideout. And the smart thinking here begins with the name, which not only references the fact that it has eight guest rooms but also that it features eight main dishes on the menu. And
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then there’s the ‘ate’ pun, of course. (The actual address is 3 North Parade Passage, but you can’t have everything.) The minimalist logo is good too, featuring a pair of equally sized golden balls (or are they dinner plates?), one hovering above the other, as if Auric Goldfinger had somehow developed telekinesis and used it to build a snowman. The street-level dining room here is a small space – just 16 covers by my count – but perfectly put together, the judicious use of glass interior walls making it feel larger than it might. While seemingly quite formal, the atmosphere grows lively as it fills up, the tables so close together you can easily rubberneck next door’s choices (or just lean over to ask what they ordered). There’s also a cosy bar in the cellars – you can eat there too – with oversized stone fireplaces, a legacy of this building’s time as a Medieval refectory. The food? Well, that’s fancy. Co-owner Nathalie Brown’s French partner Fred Lavault is in the kitchen, and it’s hard to choose between his prettily presented dishes. Not tapas-small but not quite the size of regular mains, either – think the sort of thing you might get as a main on a five-course tasting menu somewhere starred – you’re encouraged to order a pair of them, to come in whichever order you like, which should leave just a little bit of room for pudding. Two are vegan, two more vegetarian, and about half are gluten free. There’s also a ‘short eats’ menu, full of finger food priced between a fiver and a tenner: a trio of hot cheese straws with pesto and goat’s
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cheese is at the cheaper end of the spectrum, and deep-fried scampi at the top. To get our hand in, we shared the hot homemade kettle chips (£4.95), and predictably more-ish they were too. Onto the main event, and I went for the sympathetically cooked fillet of hake with black ink risotto and calamari (£14.50), followed by braised beef cheeks, juicy and tender, with crispy bacon, roast garlic mash, chestnut mushrooms and deep-fried parsley (£13.95). Both were excellent, though the hake just edged it. Across the table, our Jess chose the butternut squash, goat’s cheese and sage raviole (£12.25), which sat in a generous helping of light and velvety goat’s cheese and parmesan emulsion. Inside, the squash was soft and sweet, complemented nicely by the earthy crunch of hazelnut, and on top was an impressive ‘do’ of goat’s cheese and parmesan foam, capped by a crown of bright edible flowers. Fancy. Next up, beautifully soft, gleaming white rabbit meat was wrapped up with apricot stuffing in a thin slice of dry cured ham to form a ballotine (£13.75). Two long, spindly carrots rested on it, their flavour echoed in a swipe of cumin-spiked carrot purée, while the stout chips nearby were stacked like bricks. Another nicely put together dish, Jess guarded this one jealously, only afterwards telling me it was probably the best bit o’ bunny she’d ever had. All very impressive so far, then, with the clever menu construction extending to the by-the-glass wine matching, giving two contrasting choices for each dish printed right on the menu; it’s a nice touch, and the ones we tried were interesting and well-chosen. Desserts were impressive too, with five options – including a lemon meringue pie and a flourless chocolate cake – at a reasonable £6 a go. Our picks: red berry trifle with almond sponge, saffron custard and coconut Chantilly, presented in a Martini glass, and a multi-element vanilla poached pear dish, which comes with ice cream, toasted pistachios and gingerbread cake. Festooned with
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edible flowers, this one tasted as good as it looked. Jess’ trifle was perhaps slightly less well-received; having somehow missed the fact that it was both vegan and gluten free, she’d hoped for more defined layers and found the almond sponge a little grainy. Pretty much full on a Wednesday night, Eight has obviously found its audience already, and joins the likes of Henry’s and The Circus Restaurant as an interesting, unpretentious but undeniably special option in central Bath. Staff are top-notch too. I could do without the bland elevator jazz playing in the background – music’s fine, just not that music – and would perhaps suggest keeping a keener eye than we did on what’s vegan and gluten free. That said, in every way that matters this is a most welcome and impressive new gaff.
Eight, 3 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX; 01225 724111; eightinbath.co.uk
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A F T E R S
M A RK S I M MO NDS
W E L C O M I N G W AT E R I N G H O L E S
THE SPOTTED COW THIS NEIGHBOURHOOD PUB IS A NORTH STREET DRINKING STAPLE, BUT IT SHOULDN’T BE OVERLOOKED FOR FOOD, RECKONS JESSICA CARTER
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ecently, I was walking through the centre of Bristol and saw someone I knew. We said hi, stopped for a brief exchange, and then went about our days. Thing was, as we were talking, it occurred to me that I had no idea how I knew this person. I was fair few metres down the road by the time it clicked – we didn’t actually know each other, we were just familiar from being different sides of the same bar at a neighbourhood pub (okay, okay – I’m bad with faces, alright?). I like to think that says more about the local community than my drinking habits (don’t give me that look) but, either way, this familiarity is what having a local is all about. The Spotted Cow is one such haunt of mine, and it has been for most of the seven years I’ve lived in Bristol. It’s remained a constant on ever-evolving North Street, seeing neighbouring businesses come and go, and the food and drink offering flourish. It’s actually been there, in the same guise and ownership, for over a decade (Dave Smeaton took it on 11 years ago, and he’s had The Christmas Steps too for a handful of years as well). Open every day and evening, this 200-year-old watering hole is a versatile hangout, where down-to-earth pub vibes live in harmony with a smart, restaurant-esque feel in parts. Varnished wooden floors, brass candlesticks, large flower displays and dusty hues give a classic look, and the young team are laid back and friendly, helping along the cool, relaxed atmosphere. The food – served in the evenings – definitely takes its theme from the pub setting, but has a thoughtful edge. The menu changes regularly, of course, but on this visit main courses (which start at £9.50) ranged from wild mushroom macaroni with truffle cheese sauce and onion marmalade to roast lamb rump with confit breast, vine tomatoes, charred shallots and thyme jus. We started with a couple of glasses of the house red (all good on that front), hunks of bread from neighbouring bakery Marks, and fat olives. Then came the fish pie (£12.95) and cassoulet (£12.95). The former was packed with chunks of cod, salmon and smoked haddock, while plump prawns further bolstered the filling. The seafood bathed in a velvety lobster veloute, which was lifted by a
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fresh-tasting hint of dill and topped with a thyme and breadcrumb crusted mash. Finished with edible flowers and more bread for mopping up that plentiful sauce, it put a decent smile on my dinner date’s face. He was impressed at the amount of the good stuff that was crammed into this classic dish. Across the table, in front of me, was a wide, shallow bowl of cassoulet. Again, the chef hadn’t been shy with the meat: pork belly, super-tender confit duck and plump coins of softly spiced chorizo formed the majority of the smoky mix, interspersed with cannellini beans in a tomatoey sauce. The top was coated lightly with melted cheese that needed breaking through to reach the rich filling beneath. Juicy vine tomatoes sat on top, which burst when attacked with a fork, and tufts of crisp kale gave some crunch. Yup, I’d happily order that again. Last was a date and pecan pudding with toffee sauce and ice cream, and egg custard tart with millefeuille-style pastry and poached rhubarb (each a more than fair £5). They were nice ideas, but not as strong as the mains (the vanilla ice cream was very sweet and not as smooth as I’d like, while my pal would have preferred his poached rhubarb warm, as opposed to so well chilled). The nuttiness of the pecan was a win alongside the date, though, and took the edge off the sweetness of that usually heavy pud. This pub has a real focus on good food made with carefully chosen ingredients – there’s even a roof garden where the chefs grow a lot of their own produce – but is just as much about the bar, and the community pub spirit. On the night we visited, Bristol City had a mid-week game down the road at Ashton Gate Stadium, so there was a real buzz. The crowd was a good one and the atmosphere perfectly amiable for guests who harbour no strong feelings for City – or team sports in general. Come the summer, the large garden will come into its own, too – locals flock here at the first sign of sun to work on those vitamin D levels. A proper crowd-pleaser.
The Spotted Cow, 139 North Street, Bristol BS3 1EZ; 0117 963 4433; thespottedcowbristol.com
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s humans, we find comfort in the familiar – it’s in our nature. Think of it from an evolutionary perspective – our brains associating the unknown with danger has probably got our species out of a good few scrapes over the millennia. (In fact, the stress of an unfamiliar situation can actually activate survival mechanisms in our brain and cause physiological changes: our heart rate can raise, increasing oxygen to our muscles and brain; muscles tense – ready for action – until they tremble; and sweat glands work to get rid of the heat we’ll produce in our impending fight or flight through perspiration.) My point? This principle of familiarity can totally be applied to restaurants. No, I’m not suggesting that the prospect of visiting the new local diner is going to bring you out in violent shakes and leave you dangerously dehydrated through fluid loss – rather, it helps to explain why we sometimes find ourselves gravitating towards recognisable chain restaurants when in a new city, or perhaps visiting the same bistro multiple times on one holiday. Thing is, though, the comfort zone – despite being the source of all those warm and fuzzy feelings – gets pretty boring, rarely allowing you room to try something new. So, unless you have no need for a steady hand and dry pits, or think that Bill Murray should
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GOLDEN OLDIES
THE CIRCUS WHETHER YOU FIND HAPPINESS IN THE FAMILIAR OR THE NEW, YOU’RE LIKELY TO COME ACROSS IT AT THIS LITTLE NEIGHBOURHOOD GAFF, THINKS JESSICA CARTER
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have been relieved when faced with the prospect of reliving the same day for the rest of eternity, there is an agreeable middle ground to be had. And it can be found at The Circus in Bath. This little independent neighbourbood bistro – which has been under the ownership of chef Alison Golden and her husband Geoffrey since 2007 – has something happily familiar about it, meaning I found myself exhaling audibly and dropping those shoulders soon after taking my seat. This did not feel like the kind of place that I was going to be faced with a menu that needed translating, or a bible of wine options I’d have to pretend to read. Feel a ‘but’ coming on? You’d be right – as comforting as this cosy joint may have felt, I couldn’t have predicted the menu. Concise but with a thoughtful spread of global influence and ingredient focus, it ranged from vegan Japanese-style miso-baked aubergine to Frenchinspired flat iron steak with Café de Paris butter and chips. The idea of my lunch date’s roasted cauliflower salad (£6.30) might not have floated my boat on paper, but in reality it was a really nicely balanced bowl of moreish contrast – salty and sweet, soft and crunchy – with smoked almonds, Medjool dates, cumin, tahini and lemon juice. The mix of white cauli and romanesco, too, made it a more colourful plate that you might expect. Plump and delicate Cornish mussels (£6.90) had been steamed with lemongrass, ginger, lime leaves and coriander for a Thai-style edge, the loose liquor – milky with coconut – tasting fresh and light. The smiley, enthusiastic team were cornered for recommendations when it came to mains, and I was really happy with my resulting
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panisses (£12.40). The herb-flecked, deep-fried chickpea-flour fries were well-seasoned and perfectly crisp and golden. They sat on top of red wine-braised beluga lentils, with a sweet and slightly heated red pepper and chilli jam. Small black dollops of olive caramel gave the familiar flavour a sweet finish in place of the expected innate saltiness. Big fan. The fish of the day (£15.30) was a juicy, wobbly hunk of meaty line-caught cod. The generous portion was accompanied by a zingy, nicely acidic salsa verde and shavings of fennel. My lunch pal made short work of it alongside a mixed bowl of veg and potatoes (£2.60), featuring sweet, caramelised squash. Dessert was cardamom and pistachio rice pudding, drizzled with honey and crowned with garam masala-glazed figs (£6.50), and a textbook crème brûlee – creamy and light, with a brittle lid (£5.10). The accompanying rhubarb was suitably sharp, and it was served with a well-baked Madeleine. Tuesday lunch is hardly peak time, but the classic-style dining room was healthily full during this visit, and service flowed nicely. The welcoming sense of familiarity and comfort (helped along, of course, by the current ownership’s longevity) balances nicely with the unexpected, ever-changing menu, and makes for a reliable, consistent restaurant that you can easily find yourself drawn back to a couple of times a month – as my lunch date told me he does. The Circus, 34 Brock Street, Bath BA1 2LN; 01225 466020; thecircusrestaurant.co.uk
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BELTING BURGER? If I had to choose, I’d pick Burger Joint on Whiteladies Road. I went there with a big group friends once and we had a wonderful time. BREAKFAST? Penfold’s Kitchen. I spend a lot of time across the road at the BRI, so often pop in here for a bit of me time. POSH NOSH? Root. I recently went for my birthday and. Oh. My. Gosh. My taste buds had a partay. If you fancy spoiling yourself, I highly recommend it. COMFORT FOOD? Chips in a cone from Salt and Malt. FOOD ON THE GO? The roasted cauliflower dal hotbox at Friska. My mouth is watering just thinking about this one. SOMETHING SWEET? A sour-dough-nut from Pinkmans bakery. I’m still trying to recover after their Christmas selection. ALFRESCO FEASTING? Primrose Café in Clifton. It’s my mum’s favourite, and always such a treat when we go there together.
L I T T L E
B L A C K
GROCERY SHOP? Reg the Veg. As a photographer, I find the store extremely aesthetically pleasing – colours everywhere!
B O O K
CIARA HILLYER
WINE MERCHANT? Grape and Grind. Always perfect when buying a gift for someone. QUICK PINT? No.1 Harbourside. Who doesn’t want to chill by the river with a cold pint? BEST BREW? Society Café is my favourite café in Bristol. A lot of the baristas have become friends of mine, and I often ask for their recommendations – I completely trust their decisions.
LOCAL CREATIVE CIARA HILLYER FREQUENTS A FINE SELECTION OF FOODIE HAUNTS – EXPECT TO SEE HER AT ANY ONE OF THEM, LIKELY WIELDING THAT CAMERA...
CHEEKY COCKTAIL? Albatross Café on North Street. The Espresso Martini here is probably the best I’ve had. HIDDEN GEM? Milk Teeth. Josh the owner is such a nice guy – he’s a one-man coffee-making machine! ONE TO WATCH? I’m going to pick a coffee roastery – Girls Who Grind Coffee. They are awesome and – I hear – are dropping their first café and store this summer...
Quick! Now add this little lot to your contacts book...
ON THE HIT LIST? Squeezed. I am very keen to visit, as I’ve heard great things – I can’t quite believe I’ve never been there!
The Burger Joint, Bristol BS8 2NT; theburgerjoint.co.uk Penfold’s Kitchen, Bristol BS2 8DJ; facebook.com/ penfoldskitchen Root, Bristol BS1 6WP; eatdrinkbristolfashion.co.uk Salt and Malt, Bristol BS1 6WD; saltmalt.com Friska, Bristol; friskafood.com Pinkmans, Bristol BS1 5PJ; pinkmans.co.uk Primrose Café, Bristol BS8 4AA; primrosecafe.co.uk Reg the Veg, Bristol BS8 4AA; regtheveg.co.uk Grape and Grind, Bristol BS7 8AT; grapeandgrind.co.uk No.1 Harbourside, Bristol BS1 5UH; no1harbourside.co.uk Society Café, Bristol BS1 4BD; society-cafe.com Albatross Café, Bristol BS3 1HJ; albatrosscafebristol.business.site Milk Teeth, Bristol BS2 8SJ; milkteethportlandsq.co.uk Girls Who Grind Coffee, Warminster BA12 0AQ; girlswhogrindcoffee.com Squeezed, Bristol BS1 6WE; bristolsqueezed.weebly.com East Village Café, Bristol BS8 4AA; eastvillagecafe.co.uk The Rose of Denmark, Bristol BS8 4QL; facebook.com/theroseofdenmarkbristol Arnolfini, Bristol BS1 4QA; arnolfini.org.uk Watershed, Bristol BS1 5TX; watershed.co.uk Twelve, Bristol BS8 4AB; instagram.com/twelve_clifton
WITH FRIENDS? East Village Café in Clifton. It’s becoming increasingly popular – and rightly so, as the food is spectacular. It’s ideal for those who require vegan, dairy-free and gluten-free choices. WITH THE FAMILY? The Rose of Denmark. Just can’t fault a cosy English pub! PET FRIENDLY? Arnolfini. My little dogs love it there. It’s right by the harbourside, so it’s a perfect location, too. BEST ATMOSPHERE? Watershed. This is one of my favourite venues in Bristol. Not only are the staff lovely, but the food is good, they have excellent beer, a tasteful selection of films – and always seem to be hosting a fun event. SUPER SERVICE? Twelve, in Clifton. Jen, the owner, is a friend of mine. I went there a few weeks ago and, one by one, my friends appeared. None of us planned to be there – it felt like a scene from Cheers! instagram.com/ciarahillyer
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