THE BOTANIST
The Botanist is no wallflower. Here’s what Lisa Evans thought of the 2020-opened ‘secret garden’ concept restaurant
I
t started with a seed, an idea to create a secret garden of food and drink, a place where antiquities, trinkets and an abundance of bountiful greenery decorated every inch and corner, and resident botanists would craft unusual concoctions. Now, there are Botanists scattered in cities across the UK, with Cardiff’s wondrous branch on Church Street having opened in February this year, and, honestly, it’s a delight for all the senses. It’s a new building, so it’s only ever housed The Botanist, and its newly-finished sparkle is evident. The first thing you’re struck by is the unbelievably luscious, luxe and leafy décor, not to mention its substantial and beckoning roof terrace and its secluded private dining room. The spectacular space feels open and airy, and, thankfully, the food is on par with the look of the place, too. The cooking is bright and colourful, and the menu’s
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inspired by the deli, grill and rotisserie. Tempting starters include baked camembert, Cumberland Scotch egg, and hot boards, but we chose lightly battered calamari – the freshest we’ve tried in a long time – with crème fraiche and sweet chilli dip; salt and pepper onion petals – an alternative to the classic rings (oh lord, these are a musttry); and marinated olives. For mains, we had to try the dish The Botanist is famed for: the hanging kebab. Kebabs may be best known to Brits as end-of-the-night sinful grub, but these ones were rather classy. I went for the sweet chilli-marinated crispy halloumi version. It came presented hanging above properly seasoned chips and was a party in my mouth. My dining mate had the bang bang cauliflower served with rice noodles and sweet chilli salad, which she said had a dreamy kick of fire. The staff are cool cucumbers, and so friendly. It wasn’t just a case of ‘can I take your order?’, actual connections
