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RESTAURANT We delve into the secret gardens of The Botanist
THE BOTANIST
The Botanist is no wallflower. Here’s what Lisa Evans thought of the 2020-opened ‘secret garden’ concept restaurant
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It started with a seed, an idea to create a secret inspired by the deli, grill and rotisserie. Tempting starters garden of food and drink, a place where include baked camembert, Cumberland Scotch egg, and antiquities, trinkets and an abundance of hot boards, but we chose lightly battered calamari – the bountiful greenery decorated every inch and freshest we’ve tried in a long time – with crème fraiche corner, and resident botanists would craft and sweet chilli dip; salt and pepper onion petals – an unusual concoctions. Now, there are Botanists alternative to the classic rings (oh lord, these are a mustscattered in cities across the UK, with Cardiff’s try); and marinated olives. wondrous branch on Church Street having opened in For mains, we had to try the dish The Botanist is famed February this year, and, honestly, it’s a delight for all for: the hanging kebab. Kebabs may be best known to the senses. Brits as end-of-the-night sinful grub, but these ones were
It’s a new building, so it’s only ever housed The Botanist, rather classy. I went for the sweet chilli-marinated crispy and its newly-finished sparkle is evident. The first thing halloumi version. It came presented hanging above you’re struck by is the unbelievably luscious, luxe and leafy properly seasoned chips and was a party in my mouth. My décor, not to mention its substantial and beckoning roof dining mate had the bang bang cauliflower served with terrace and its secluded private dining room. rice noodles and sweet chilli salad, which she said had a
The spectacular space feels open and airy, and, dreamy kick of fire. thankfully, the food is on par with the look of the place, The staff are cool cucumbers, and so friendly. It wasn’t too. The cooking is bright and colourful, and the menu’s just a case of ‘can I take your order?’, actual connections
and laughs were had – Jay, the business development manager, who sat with us, even made me snort out loud, to my dismay.
We didn’t have dessert because we were so full, but if I did have room, the option I would have jumped on would have been another hanging kebab, but this time made up of doughnuts, chocolate brownies, strawberries, candy floss and pink chocolate sauce – how heavenly and magical does that sound?
Of course, we had to try some of the liquid libations. The cocktail list is the stuff of dreams, and almost all of the drinks have a twist on the classic – for example, there’s an Old Fashioned on the list but it’s served with chocolate bitters, and the Pornstar had pineapple juice and rose cordial in the mix.
There is such an energetic, buzzy, celebratory yet laid back vibe here. It’s a place you want to doll up for, meet friends at, laugh all night and indulge in sublime social times. It doesn’t have one of those atmospheres where you feel you have to whisper, in fear of disturbing the other diners. It definitely isn’t a wallflower.
It wails with grooviness, it palpitates with hipness, and even after having to close soon after opening due to lockdown, it has still managed to blossom into something spectacular. n
DINING DETAILS The Botanist, Unit 5-10, Church Street, Cardiff, CF10 1BG; 02920 130053; www.thebotanist.uk.com We ate Calamari with crème fraiche and sweet chilli dip; salt and pepper onion petals; marinated olives; crispy halloumi hanging kebab; bang bang cauliflower noodle salad Vegetarian options A good selection on the menu – from vegan sharing boards, to yellow curry and halloumi burgers Head chef Marc Sloper Prices Starters and small plates: £3.25 – £6.95; mains £9.95 – £19.95; desserts £4.50 – £7.50 Drinks Incredible botanical cocktails are the staple here Service/atmosphere Super friendly and helpful, and the vibe is buzzy and hip Décor Luxe, leafy and Instagrammable to its core Disability access Yes, lift to all floors
