FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 58 OCTOBER 2014 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
40
NAY I W W A T E G A FIT FOR A KING
RECIPES
and top chefs Mary Berry Dhruv Baker Yotam Ottolenghi
OCTOBER 2014 ISSUE 58
SPICE IT UP
Winter warmers you’ll love
RICK STEIN Treats from the sea
VEGETARIAN FEASTS ● CHRISTMAS LUNCHES ● COOK SCHOOLS 001_FFCover_spine_1014.indd 1
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the
First NoĂŤl at the Raeburn Join us for our first festive season email enquiries: christmas@theraeburn.com or phone 0131 332 7000
the Raeburn
# 112 raeburn place Stodbridge Edeburgh eh4 1hg t: +44(0)0131 332 7000 e: info@theraeburn.com w: theraeburn.com
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WELCOME
Foodies Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 21 Royal Circus, Edinburgh EH3 6TL Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 58 OCTOBER 2014 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
40
WIN
A GETAWAY FIT FOR A KING
RECIPES
and top chefs Mary Berry Dhruv Baker Yotam Ottolenghi
OCTOBER 2014 ISSUE 58
SPICE IT UP
Winter warmers you’ll love
RICK STEIN Treats from the sea
VEGETARIAN FEASTS ● CHRISTMAS LUNCHES ● COOK SCHOOLS 001_FFCover_spine_1014.indd 1
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Front cover image Spice: Layers of Flavour Dhruv Baker, W&N £30.87
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Design Angela McKean Sub Editor Caroline Whitham Digital Imaging Malcolm Irving Production Sarah Hitchen Editorial Assistant Lidia Molina Whyte
Starstruck in Scotland
W
E HAVE been full of anticipation this month for the Michelin announcements and delighted that stars have been awarded to two establishments in Scotland. Many congratulations to Chef Michael Smith and the team at The Three Chimneys and to Ross Stovold and his A ROYAL ESCAPE team at the Isle of Eriska on their first Michelin stars. AT MELVILLE CASTLE Meanwhile, the four Scottish winners of AA Awards are no slouches either – make sure you book a table at AA Hotel of the Year, Meldrum House in Aberdeen, AA Restaurant of the Year, Timberyard in Edinburgh, AA Wine Award-winner The Peat Inn at St Andrews, and AA Pub of the Year The Bridge Inn in Ratho. We are delighted that Mary Berry has kindly shared three recipes from her latest TV series and book, Mary Berry Cooks. Mary’s plum and marzipan tarte tatin on page 27 is a quick and easy version of the classic French tart, tastes delicious and will impress family and friends. Looking forward to all of the fun of Halloween? Why not try Great British Bake Off finalist Holly Bell’s recipe for Squidgy Spider Cupcakes on Page 44, which promises a squelchy chocolate hit. A new initiative, the Edinburgh Restaurant Festival launches today, with chefs Paul Wedgewood and Mark Greenaway sharing their recipes for the inaugural Chef’s Table evening with us. Lots of events will be going on throughout the weeks of the festival, including the West End Beer Festival, so look out for exciting foodie events happening near you. ● Sue Hitchen, Editor
WIN
CONTRIBUTORS
Advertising Design Charis Stewart ADVERTISING Business Development Sharon Little SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 226 7766 or email the editor: sue.hitchen@gmail.com
Dhruv Baker won MasterChef in 2010 and since then has carved out a following for his global food
Mary Berry is a legend in TV cooking and a respected judge on the Great British Bake Off
Rick Stein is passionate about great fish cooking and a familiar face on British television
Yotam Ottolenghi has a devoted following for his wholesome cooking foodies 3
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CONTENTS
7
31
SHOPPING
7
NEWS
9
BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
12
COMPETITION 13 Win a Royal Escape at Melville Castle
57
DHRUV BAKER 14 shares foodie influences gained from a life lived all over the world MARY BERRY 22 The Great British Bake-Off judge proves she’s the queen of the kitchen RICK STEIN 30 Fish is the dish of the day as the Padstow chef offers up his top tips YOTAM OTTOLENGHI 36 Wholesome veggie recipes from the Guardian columnist HOLLY BELL 42 the Bake-Off finalist’s homecooked favourites
66
41
RECIPES OF THE MONTH 47 Paul Wedgwood and Mark Greenaway launch the Edinburgh Restaurant Festival CHRISTMAS LUNCHES 51 Book your festive meal and avoid the stress of the big day JUICE 57 Boost your immune system with vitamin-rich smoothies
29
COOK SCHOOLS
61
SPAS 63 Relax at these palaces of pampering NEW BARS
64
COCKTAILS A milkshake with a difference
66
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The magic’s in the making Let’s make Christmas
All aboard the chocolate express! Create memories to treasure with our New & Exclusive Chocolate Train Mould.
Visit lakeland.co.uk or pop into one of our 68 stores nationwide
Your local Glasgow & Edinburgh stores 18a Buchanan Galleries, Buchanan Street, Glasgow G1 2FF 55 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 2PJ Dobbies Garden World, Melville Nursery, Edinburgh EH18 1AZ
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SHOPPING
Lotus spaghetti measure Les Esthetes £7.79
Miller Green and White spice grinder Koziol-shop.uk £28
Bottle opener MINIMALL £11.63
Let us play Home Sweet Kitchen print Design and Belle £9.24
Turn your kitchen into any big kid’s dream with these fun and funky accessories
Robot Nutcracker MAIDEN £16.50
Sesame Street egg cups MAIDEN £16
Bento House Japonmania £15.57
Knit and Natter teapot Laura Lee designs £50 foodies 7
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Gift Voucher Available Why not buy a gift voucher for the Foodie in your life?
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FOODIES NEWS
WINNING SMILES Often referred to as the ‘Oscars’ of the industry, the AA Hospitality Awards has announced its 2014 winners, including four Scottish establishments. AA Hotel of the Year was awarded to Meldrum House, Aberdeen. AA Restaurant of the Year went to Timberyard, in Edinburgh, a family-run establishment serving the best of Scottish cuisine. The Peat Inn, St Andrews scooped the AA Wine Award and the AA Pub of the Year went to The Bridge Inn in Ratho.
FEEL THE HEAT
With an extraordinary blend of the finest aged Scoth whisky, spices and heather honey, Drambuie’s new winter pour, ready-to-serve Hot Apple Toddy, is the perfect antidote to drizzly days and chilly evenings.
Star treatment Two establishments in Scotland have been awarded a Michelin star in this year’s guide: the Isle of Eriska on Eriska and the The Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye. Head chef and director Michael Smith of The Three Chimneys praised the hard work and support of his “fabulous team”. Ross Stovold of Isle of Eriska was “delighted” to have been awarded their first Michelin star.
Wish for fish Inspired by festive flavours, Spink & Sons’ limited edition smoked trout products will make your mouth water this season. Both the Smoked Trout with Warming Winter Spices and the Peat Smoked Trout Infused with Sheep Dip Whisky combine traditional Scottish ingredients with delicious seasonal tastes.
LOTUS POSITION
Famously slipped beside cappuchinos and lattes in Italian cafés, Lotus Biscoff is ready to take the spotlight. With a scrumptious caramelised spread and a new size and flavour range, including chocolate, these biscuits won’t hide in coffee’s shadow any more. foodies 9
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FOODIES NEWS
ORCHARD SPICE
Banish the winter blues with Kopparberg Spiced Apple. The cider’s warming apple sweetness and woody aroma is balanced with a hint of cinnamon, the perfect combination to liven up even the coldest winter night. It’s best served warm and garnished with a cinnamon stick, the perfect festive drink.
Crumbs, it’s Batman! Biscuiteers jumps on the super hero Batwagon with their new collection of DC Comics Super Heroes iced biscuits, cupcakes and cakes. From Superman and Batman to Wonder Woman, Biscuiteers has the perfect pressie for your own personal hero. Available from www.buscuiteers.com
SITTING AT THE TOP TABLE
The Edinburgh Restaurant Festival takes place in the capital from the 9th-23rd October with a great selection of events going on. Wednesday 8th October sees four of the Capital’s most acclaimed chefs coming together to create a mouthwatering menu for one night only, in celebration of the festival. Stuart Ralston of Aizle, Mark Greenaway of Restaurant Mark Greenaway and Bistro Moderne, Craig Sandle of The Pompadour by Galvin at the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh, and Paul Wedgwood of Wedgwood will be uniting forces to create five delicious courses that will capture the traditional chef’s table experience.
MULL IT OVER
Now that the weather has turned colder, the season of pretzels and mulled wine has finally arrived, and to celebrate Pig in a Poke has launched a brand new Mulled Wine to add to its range. A delicious blend of wine with aromatic festive spices, Pig in a Poke’s Mulled Wine embodies the brand’s ethos of great quality for great value.
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festive courses
this christmas, indulge in a delicious festive dining experience at trump turnberry, a luxury collection resort festive dining experiences from
ÂŁ30
per person
To reserve your dining experience, please call 01655 333 991 For more information and pricing visit turnberryresort.co.uk/festive-dining
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BOOKS, TV AND WHAT’S ON
COOKING THE BOOKS Paul Hollywood’s British Baking Paul Hollywood, Bloomsbury, £25 Paul Hollywood applies his signature twist to regional British baked delights in this traditional collection. Patisserie Made Simple: From Macaron to Millefeuille and More Edd Kimber, Kyle Books, £19.99 Learn how to recreate the delightful recipes that keep you gazing longingly at patisserie window displays at home. The Skinnytaste Cookbook: Light on Calories, Big on Flavour Gina Homolka, Clarkson Potter Publishers, £18.99 Gina Homolka is back with more easy, flavourful, low-calorie recipes.
Nomad Chef
Follow Australia-based chef Jock Zonfrillo as he embarks in the ultimate culinary adventure in search of inspiration, ingredients and lost recipes in some of the most remote corners of the world. Scottish-born Zonfrillo’s journey will take him from the Amazon to the Indo-Burmese borderlands, as he celebrates the world’s native cuisines. Don’t miss the first episode, which involves bat wings and volcano-cooked chicken, airing on Quest on 13th October.
WHAT’S ON WEST END BEER FESTIVAL Sunday 19th October, Edinburgh Head to Ryan’s Bar, The Melville, The Huxley, The Grosvenor and the Ghilli Dhu to sample the goods and meet the makers from some of Scotland and Edinburgh’s best known and up-and-coming microbrewers. It’s part of the Edinburgh Restaurant Festival, so you’re guaranteed some tasty treats.
CHAMPAGNE V SPARKLING WINE TASTING Friday 31st October, Baby Abode, Glasgow Develop your palate under the guidance of Master of Wine Rose Murray Brown, who will be serving up thirteen paired tastings of the fizzy stuff at Glasgow’s Baby Abode in what promises to be a night you might not remember. Learn how to tell the difference between cava, prosecco and champagne.
EDINBURGH OKTOBERFEST 2014 1st-5th and 8th12th October The Edinburgh Oktoberfest takes over Princes Street Gardens once again this year to celebrate the gathering of the harvest with German beer, food and music. Various packages, including a guaranteed table, beer and traditional German foods are available, but book now to avoid disappointment – tickets sold out quickly last year.
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IN W
Live like a king for a night at Melville Castle N ESTLED within fifty acres of beautiful woodland estate on the outskirts of Edinburgh, Melville Castle is the perfect spot for a luxury break, with its wide range of outdoor activities, acclaimed food and stylish accommodation. This month we are offering one lucky reader and a friend the chance to win a one-night stay at Melville Castle, complete with dinner and breakfast. Situated just twenty minutes away from the city centre, it’s the perfect opportunity to unwind within the elegance of an 18th century castle surrounded by stunning landscape.
The lucky winners will be welcomed by a delicious meal at The Brasserie at Melville Castle upon arrival, which will showcase The Brasserie’s strong focus on locally-sourced ingredients of the highest quality, and is combined with a carefully-considered wine and local beer list. The meal will be followed by a stay in one of their thirty-two stylish ensuite bedrooms, complete with crisp linen sheets, fluffy white towels and enchanting views of the surrounding woodland. To top it off, the winner will also enjoy a wholesome Scottish or Continental breakfast after a comfortable night’s sleep. ●
TO ENTER For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
How many bedrooms does Melville Castle have? To win simply email enter@foodiesfestival. com with the correct answer and include your name, address and telephone number so we can contact the winner.
The winner will be the first correct answer drawn on October 31st. The prize is overnight stay, dinner and breakfast for two people. The prize is available Monday to Thursday and must be redeemed by February 2015. All extras will be charged for. Non-refundable, non-transferable. Travel not included.
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MEET THE CHEF DHRUV BAKER
The world on a plate Chef Dhruv Baker has lived in many countries, and has a global appitite for food
M
Y DAD is English and my mum is Indian. I was born in Mexico, and when I was four years old we moved to India, where I spent the majority of my formative years. As a result it is the source of a large proportion of my culinary influences and treasured food memories. But I was also lucky enough to live in some other amazing places: Mexico, Spain, Tanzania and, of course, the UK. My recollections of my different homes are dominated by smells and flavours, each unique to wherever I was living at the time. It is the evocative nature of food that I find particularly fascinating. Whether it’s tortillas cooking, the rich, heady scents of a bustling spice market, a huge paella over a wood fire or fish grilling at the local market, a single smell can unlock very specific memories for me instantly transporting me back to a particular time and place many years ago and many miles away. The food that I cook is the culmination of the experiences I’ve had, the places I’ve lived and the people I’ve met. As a family we used
to take holidays and trips all over India, each of which contributed in some way to my love of and approach to food: eating lobster on the beach in Goa, steamed dumplings in the Kullu Manali Valley, crab kalia in Orissa or fish curries in Kerala. The smell of a barbecue being lit still conjures up visions of venison, wild boar, quail and pigeon cooked on a sigri, or brazier; predinner nibbles being passed around as the kids drink mango juice and the adults enjoy far stronger stuff. Every time I cook my Mussalam lamb chops, I’m suddenly back in my uncle’s palace in Limbdi, Gujarat. I am constantly trying to recreate these food memories, often using them as starting points for new dishes.
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I learned to love food at a very early age. My mum is the best cook I’ve ever known, even though she didn’t cook at all when she was younger. Her family belongs to one of the former princely states of India. At the time of independence in 1947 her paternal grandfather was the last ruler of Kathiwada, a small state in Madhya Pradesh. Among his favourite pastimes was cooking, and his recipes are very much a part of our family’s inheritance. My mother’s maternal grandfather had two daughters. The elder, Princess Chandra Kumari, was my mother’s mother. The younger, Princess Suraj Kumari, was married to Digvijay Singh,
the Maharaja of Sailana (his book, Cooking Delights of The Maharajas, is still in print today). Throughout my mother’s childhood all food was prepared in the palace kitchens, and as a result she never learned to cook. After she married my father, however, she started teaching herself. Now, 30 years later, she is responsible for some of the most stunning dishes I have ever eaten. I can now appreciate that my style of cooking was beginning to take shape long before I was aware of it, and it is this foundation that I try to build on daily, influenced by new ingredients, techniques and recipes. ● foodies 15
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FOODIES DHRUV BAKER
BARBECUED PIGEON WITH SPICED PEA PURÉE This works beautifully on a barbecue as the pigeon takes on an irresistible smokiness. You can buy pigeon at some large supermarkets but any good butcher should be able to get you some. Alternatively you could use duck breasts instead of pigeon Serves 4 4 pigeon crowns (on the bone) 1 lime, quartered Salt
For the marinade 2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lime 2 tsp vegetable oil ½ tsp coarsely ground black pepper ½ tsp salt For the pea purée 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 3 sprigs fresh curry leaves 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 1 green finger chilli, deseeded and chopped 250g frozen peas 100ml coconut milk or chicken stock 4 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh mint
● Mix all the marinade ingredients together in a large bowl. Add the pigeon crown and turn to coat in the marinade. Place in the fridge for at least 1 hour or overnight if possible. ● To make the pea purée, heat the oil in a frying pan and add the onion. Fry for about 10 minutes until soft and starting to colour. Add the curry leaves, mustard seeds and chilli and fry for another 5 minutes. Add the peas and the coconut milk or stock and bring to the boil. ● Remove from the heat and tip the pea mixture into a blender with the coriander and mint and blend until smooth. Set aside until ready to serve. If you are making this in advance then reheat gently before serving with the pigeon. ● To cook the pigeon on a barbecue, place over hot coals and cook for 3 minutes each side. Allow to rest for 5-10 minutes. Alternatively, pan-fry for 3-5 minutes each side and rest as before. ● To serve, take the breast fillets off the joint and then cut each breast into four or five slices (the meat should be pink in the middle) and arrange on top of the pea purée. Finish with a squeeze of lime and a pinch of salt.
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FOODIES DHRUV BAKER
CHICKEN LAKSA A good chicken laksa is hard to beat. Fiery hot and layered with flavours, this is one moreish dish. The creaminess that comes from the coconut milk helps keep the chilli heat at bay while the turmeric gives the dish its trademark golden colour and the spices add a warming, delicate layering of flavours. You will only need half the spice paste for this dish but it’s always a good idea to make a larger batch as you can freeze it or keep in the fridge for up to two weeks Serves 4
For the laksa paste 2 shallots, roughly chopped 3 cloves garlic 2 red chillies 5cm fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 3 tsp chopped fresh coriander Zest and juice of 1 lime 1 lemongrass stalk, outer layer removed and roughly chopped 2 tbsp fish sauce 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric For the laksa 50ml vegetable oil 1 litre chicken stock 2 chicken breasts, skinned 200g raw prawns, peeled 400ml coconut milk 100g beansprouts 100g cooked rice noodles 2 hard-boiled eggs, quartered 1 red chilli, very finely sliced 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh mint 2 tbsp roughly chopped fresh coriander 2 limes, cut into wedges Salt
● Start by making the laksa paste. Blend all the ingredients in a food processor until you have a smooth paste. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the paste for 5-7 minutes until you can see that the oil has separated from the paste. ● Spoon the laksa paste into a large pan and place over a medium heat. As soon as the paste starts sizzling, add the stock and bring to the boil. ● Once the stock comes to a simmer, add the chicken and cook for 15 minutes, then add the prawns and cook for a further 3 minutes. ● Stir through the coconut milk and return to the boil. Add the beansprouts and cooked noodles. ● Remove the chicken breasts from the pan and slice thickly. Return to the pan with the egg quarters and stir gently to heat through. Season to taste and serve topped with the sliced chilli, mint and coriander and wedges of lime.
Spice: Layers of Flavour is published by W & N £30.87
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FOODIES DHRUV BAKER
RHUBARB & GINGER CRUMBLE WITH CASSIA CUSTARD There are certain ingredients that I eagerly anticipate with the changing seasons; strawberries, asparagus, Jersey royals, cherries and rhubarb to name a few. Rhubarb is one of those superheroes that life would be immeasurably less of a joy without. The sharpness can take your breath away unless balanced with the right amount of sweetness, which here comes from the crumble and the custard Serves 6 800g rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 5cm pieces 120ml water 2 star anise 100g caster sugar ½ tsp ground ginger 1 tbsp roughly chopped stem ginger in syrup 4 tbsp ginger syrup (from the stem ginger) 150g plain flour 75g demerera sugar 75g unsalted butter
For the custard 225g double cream 225g whole milk 1 vanilla pod, split lengthways 2 cassia sticks 6 large egg yolks 75g caster sugar
● Preheat the oven to 180°C. ● Spread out the rhubarb on a baking tray. Sprinkle with water, the star anise and caster sugar and bake in the oven for 10 minutes. ● Remove from the oven, discard the star anise, sprinkle over the ground ginger and mix well. Tip into an ovenproof dish and scatter over the chopped stem ginger and ginger syrup. ● Put the flour, sugar and butter into a food processor and whizz until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Sprinkle over the rhubarb and bake in the oven for 45 minutes, until the crumble topping is golden brown and the rhubarb is soft. ● Meanwhile, make the custard. Put the cream and milk into a small pan. Use the back of a knife to scrape out the seeds from the vanilla pod and add these to the pan with the cassia sticks. Place over a low heat and remove from the heat just before it starts to boil. ● Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and light. Strain the infused milk and add about one-fifth of this to the sugar and egg mix, whisking continuously. Slowly add the rest of the milk and cream then pour the whole lot into a clean pan. Stir continuously over a low heat until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Serve warm, with the rhubarb crumble.
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MEET THE CHEFS MARY BERRY
She’s a showstopper Great British Bake Off’s Mary Berry is all about taking it easy in the kitchen
N
Mary Berry Cooks is published by BBC Books £9
O MATTER what I am cooking I want it to be as simple and fuss free as possible. Everything must be absolutely delicious, of course, but whether you are entertaining a handful of close friends , cooking a family meal or creating a buffet party, the last thing you need is stress in the kitchen. This is why my dishes always contain elements that can be made in advance or frozen to avoid any last minute hassle. As a working mother, many years ago it was essential that I had home cooked dishes for my children when I finished work, and even now that they are older I have kept the habit of making as much as I can in advance. In fact, over the past few years, I have found myself busier than ever, so to come home and have a supper to defrost from the feezer is still a godsend. It has been years since I presented my own programme so I was delighted to have the opportunity in my new book to show how to entertain in a simple , stress free way. My mantra is ‘prepare ahead at all times’ and these recipes will give you all the tools you need and advice on how to present your dishes for maximum impact. I hope that you will enjoy these recipes as much as I have enjoyed creating them. ●
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
LAMB DHANSAK Dhansak is a popular Indian curry made from meat and lentils, flavoured with spices including cumin and ginger. It is mild, sweet and rich with just enough heat to satisfy most tastes. And best of all it benefits from being made a day in advance as it tastes even better the next day. I like to serve this with Raita and Fresh Tomato Relish, as well as hardboiled eggs, poppadoms, rice and, of course, mango chutney Serves 6 You can make this 1-2 days ahead, keep in the fridge, then reheat thoroughly. Transfer to a freezer-proof container and freeze for 1 month. Don’t freeze for longer as the flavours will intensify and the dish may become too spicy.
3 tbsp clear honey Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp sunflower oil 1kg diced lamb (shoulder or leg, or a mixture) 2 onions, diced 25g fresh ginger root, peeled but left whole 4 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped 10 green cardamom pods 1½ tbsp ground cumin 1½ tbsp ground coriander ½ tbsp ground turmeric 400g canned chopped tomatoes 200ml beef stock 75g dried red lentils
● Cut the cucumber in half lengthways, scoop out the seeds and cut the flesh into small cubes. Place in a bowl with the yoghurt and mint and chill for up to 2 days before serving.
For the raita Prepared ahead it will keep for 2 days in the fridge 1 small cucumber, peeled 350g Greek yoghurt 5 tbsp chopped mint
For the fresh tomato relish Prepared ahead, it will keep for 2 days in the fridge 1 red onion, finely chopped 6 ripe tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and chopped 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves, juice of ½ lemon ½ red chilli, chopped (optional)
● Mix all the ingredients for the fresh tomato relish together and chill for up to 2 days before serving. ● Preheat the oven to 150°C. ● Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large frying pan. Add half the lamb and fry until browned. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside, then brown the other half and set aside. ● Add the remaining oil to the pan. Add the onions and fry for 4-5 minutes until beginning to soften. ● Meanwhile, place the ginger, garlic and chilli into a food processor and whizz. ● Bash the cardamom pods with the end of a rolling pin to split the husks, then remove the seeds and grind them to a fine powder in a pestle and mortar. Add to the pan along with the remaining spices and the garlic and ginger mixture. ● Add the remaining ingredients to the pan and add the lamb. Bring to the boil, then cover and place in the oven to simmer for 1–2 hours until tender. Check the seasoning and serve.
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
MEDITERRANEAN ALL-IN-ONE CHICKEN This is a great way to feed the family as the chicken and veg are all cooked in one very large tray in the oven. It takes only minutes to put everything together then it sits in the oven for under an hour with no fussy finishing off to do and only one pan to wash up. The recipe allows one chicken thigh and one drumstick per person, but use less if you are not such big eaters. I love stuffed olives, but use plain green or black ones if you prefer. The preserved lemons really give a lovely citrus tang to the dish and are well worth using, but if you can’t find them, use one sliced lemon instead Serves 6 1kg main crop potatoes, peeled and cut into 5cm chunks 3 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, cut into wedges 2 garlic cloves, crushed 6 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, snipped into 1cm pieces 6 chicken thighs 6 chicken drumsticks 5 preserved lemons, cut into quarters 1½ tsp paprika 3 courgettes, thickly sliced 200g canned anchovystuffed green olives, drained Salt and freshly ground black pepper
● Preheat the oven to 220°C. ● Place the potatoes in a large roasting
tin with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Toss well to coat them. Add the onion, garlic, bacon and chicken pieces and toss together. ● Add the lemons to the roasting tin. Season everything well and sprinkle with the paprika. Roast for 40 minutes. ● In a bowl toss the courgettes in the remaining tablespoon of oil and season with salt and pepper, then poke them in among the chicken and scatter the olives over the top. Return to the oven for a further 20 minutes, until
the chicken and vegetables are golden brown and tender. ● Don’t overcrowd the roasting tin, you need everything to be in a single layer or it will not cook evenly – divide between 2 tins if necessary. Preserved lemons can usually be bought in jars in the speciality section of the supermarket. Traditionally from Morocco, the lemons are preserved in salt water and are beautifully soft and citrusy. Use them to flavour tagines and chicken or pork dishes. They will keep in the jar in the fridge for 1 month, or you can freeze them in a freezer-proof container for up to 3 months.
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
PLUM AND MARZIPAN TARTE TATIN This is a cheat’s variation of the classic French tart and makes an impressive pudding to serve with lots of cream, ice cream or crème fraîche. Serves 8 75g light muscovado sugar 9 ripe large plums, halved and stones removed 100g marzipan 320g all-butter puff pastry Ice cream, cream or Crème fraîche, to serve (optional)
● You will need a 23cm round, fixedbase cake tin, at least 5cm deep. Preheat the oven to 220°C. ● Sprinkle the sugar over the base of the tin in an even layer. Arrange the plums on top of the sugar, cut-side down. ● Roll out the marzipan to a round slightly smaller than the tin and place on top of the plums. ● Roll out the pastry just a little bit bigger so that it is the width of the cake tin. Place the cake tin on top of
the pastry. Using the tin as a guide, cut around the tin to make a circle, then lay the pastry over the plums and tuck the edges of the pastry down around the fruit. Make a small cross in the top of the pastry to let the steam escape during baking. ● Bake for 25-30 minutes until the pastry is crisp and golden and the plums are tender. Loosen the edges of the tarte then turn out on to a plate and serve.
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MEET THE CHEFS RICK STEIN
King of the sea Seafood maestro Rick Stein shares some of his insider tips for choosing the best fish
M
Y RECIPES, being very straightforward, require truly fresh fish to make them shine. Buying the freshest fish is therefore essential. I worry that my recipes will not work as well if people only have the average fish counter at a supermarket to rely on. But even faced with a limited selection of fish, there’s always going to be something good to buy. The cardinal rule is to be flexible. Large John Dory, for example, can be used instead of brill or turbot; monkfish dishes can be made with swordfish orJohn Dory. Choose the best-looking fish on the counter and go for that. Look for the brightest eye, the most sparkling skin. Like wine tasting, it’s easier to make a judgement of quality by contrasting one fish with another. ●
STEAMED SCALLOPS IN THE SHELL WITH GINGER, SOY, SESAME OIL AND SPRING ONIONS This is a favourite dish of mine from a good Chinese restaurant. I regard Chinese seafood cookery as among the best in the world. Serves 4 16 prepared scallops in the shell 1 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger 1 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp dark soy sauce 1 tbsp roughly chopped coriander 3 spring onions, thinly sliced
● Pour 2.5cm of water into the base of a wide shallow pan and bring it up to the boil. Loosen the scallops from their shells but leave them in place. Sprinkle each one with some of the ginger. Arrange the scallops, in batches if necessary, on a petal steamer. ● Lower them into the pan, reduce the heat to medium, cover and cook for about 4 minutes until just set. Remove and keep warm while you cook the rest. ● Meanwhile, put the sesame oil and soy sauce into a small pan and warm through. Lift the scallops on to four warmed plates and pour over some of the warm soy sauce and sesame oil. Sprinkle over the coriander and spring onions and serve immediately.
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FOODIES RICK STEIN
HOT POLLACK SLICES IN A WRAP WITH BOK CHOI, BEANSPROUTS, GARLIC AND GINGER You can substitute any cheap, sustainable fish, e.g. coley, hake, leatherjacket, pollock or whiting Serves 4 90g couscous 400g pollack fillet, cut into 1 cm slices Salt 90ml vegetable oil 15g (3 cloves) garlic, grated 15g fresh ginger, grated 4 Mexican-style flour tortilla wraps, 20cm in diameter 60g bok choi or salad cabbage, thinly sliced 60g beansprouts 8 spring onions, sliced on the diagonal A small handful of coriander, roughly chopped ½ tsp Tabasco or Sriracha sauce ½ tsp soy sauce
● Put the couscous in a shallow bowl. Season the fish lightly with salt and turn over in the couscous, then gently fry in a shallow pan with the vegetable oil for 3 minutes. Remove the fish to a plate, add the garlic and ginger to the pan and fry with the residual couscous for 1–2 minutes. ● To warm the tortillas, place on a hot, dry frying pan or under a hot grill for approximately 6 seconds on each side. ● Place the fish in the centre of each of the wraps. Sprinkle with bok choi and beansprouts, then spoon over the garlic, ginger, couscous and oil from the pan. Cover with the spring onions and coriander, then drizzle over the Tabasco and soy sauce. Fold up the wraps and serve.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE PERFECT FISH Look for the following signs of quality: Eyes: Clear and bright, not cloudy and sunken or blotched with red. Skin: Shiny and vivid. Colours such as orange spots on plaice, the green and yellow flecks on cod and the turquoise, green and blue lines on mackerel
should be bright and cheerful. Slime on fish is a good sign. Fins: Clearly defined and perky, not scraggy and broken. Gills: Startling lustrous pink or red, moist and a delight to the eye, not faded and brown. Smell: Fresh fish doesn’t
smell of fish, just of the sea. It should be appetizing; something you want to eat, not something the odour of which you hope will disappear when you cook it. It won’t. Feel: Firm. Obviously some fish is softer than others, but all fish goes slack and feels flabby as it goes stale.
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FOODIES RICK STEIN
NEWLYN FISH PIE Suitable fish Blue cod, blue-eye trevalla, cod, monkfish, hake, pollack, snapper Suitable seafood Crab, lobster, peeled prawns, scallops 200g finely chopped onion 60g butter
For the velouté 600ml fish stock 300ml milk 50g butter 50g flour 2 bay leaves, 1 crushed clove, 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg 30g Parmesan cheese, grated 50ml double cream Juice of ½ lemon Salt 500g mixed seafood: aim for ¾ fish fillet and ¼ shellfish or crustaceans 50g flour 30ml vegetable oil 10g butter 100g button mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 tsp French mustard 1 tsp truffle oil
● Preheat the oven to 180°C. Slow-cook the onion in the butter in a saucepan for 10 minutes. ● Make the velouté. Boil the stock and milk together. Add the bay leaves, clove and nutmeg. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook for about 2 minutes without colouring, stirring constantly. When it starts to smell nutty, add a third of the milk mixture and keep stirring until it thickens and is completely smooth. Add another third and stir as before, then add the final third and, when smooth, leave to simmer for about half an hour. ● Pour the velouté through a sieve into the sautéed onions and add the Parmesan cheese, double cream and lemon juice, and a little salt if necessary. ● Cut the fish fillet into bite-size pieces, 3-4cm long. Season with a little salt and turn over in the flour. Fry for 2–3 minutes in a frying pan over a medium heat using the vegetable oil and butter. ● Remove the fish to your pie dish. Fry the mushrooms in the same pan adding a little salt; stir in the mustard and add to the pie dish. ● Now add the shellfish or crustaceans to the pie dish. They can be raw or cooked, but if raw scallops or prawns are large, slice them in half. Drizzle the truffle oil over. ● Pour the sauce over the fish. Mix the breadcrumbs with the melted butter, and spread over the top. Bake for 20 minutes.
For the crust 50g Japanese panko breadcrumbs or fresh breadcrumbs dried out for 10 minutes in a hot oven 30g melted butter
Rick Stein’s Fish and Shellfish is published by BBC Books, £25 34 foodies
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MEET THE CHEFS YOTAM OTTOLENGHI
Fresh vegetables Meat doesn’t have to be the star of the show, as Guardian columnist Yotam Ottolenghi knows
A
S YOU GROW older, I now realise, you stop being scared of some things that used to absolutely terrify you. When I was little, for example, I couldn’t stand being left on my own. I fiercely resented the notion of spending an evening unaccompanied well into my twenties; I always had a ‘plan’. When I finally forced myself to face this demon, I discovered, of course, that not only was my worry unfounded, I could actually feast on my time alone. Eight years ago, facing the prospect of writing a weekly vegetarian recipe in
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the Guardian, I found myself gripped by two such paralysing fears. First, I didn’t want to be pigeonholed as someone who only cooks vegetables. At the time, vegetables and legumes were not precisely the top choice for most cooks. Meat and fish were the undisputed heroes in lots of homes and restaurant kitchens. They got the ‘star treatment’ in terms of attention and affection; vegetables had the supporting roles, if any. Still, I jumped into the water and, fortunately, just as I was growing up and overcoming my fear, the world of food was also growing up. We have moved forward a fair bit since 2006. Overall, more and more confirmed carnivores, chefs included, are happy to celebrate vegetables, grains and legumes. My second big fear when I took on the Guardian column was running out of ideas. I suddenly realised that I had only about four ideas up my sleeve enough for a month - and after that, nothing! My inexperience led me to think that there was a finite number of vegetarian ideas and that it wouldn’t be long before I’d exhausted them all. Not at all! As soon as I opened my eyes I began discovering a world of ingredients and techniques, of dishes and skills that ceaselessly informed me and fed me. And I was not the only one. Many people had started to discover a whole range of cuisines, dishes and ingredients that make vegetables shine as brightly as any star. ●
01/10/2014 16:08
AUBERGINE WITH BLACK GARLIC I’d love black garlic to be more widely available: its taste is reminiscent of molasses and tamarind, and it gives an unexpected depth of flavour to dishes Serves 4 3 medium aubergines, sliced widthways into 1.5cm rounds (900g) 200ml olive oil 8 large or 16 small black garlic cloves (35g) 200g Greek yoghurt 1½ tsp lemon juice 7 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced (30g) 3 red chillies, sliced on the diagonal into 3mm rounds 5g dill leaves 5g basil leaves 5g tarragon leaves Salt and black pepper
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● Preheat the oven to 250ºC. ● Place the aubergine rounds in a large bowl with 60ml of the olive oil, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix well and spread out on 2 large baking trays lined with greaseproof paper. Roast in the oven until golden-brown and completely soft – about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. ● Place the black garlic cloves in the small bowl of a food processor with a third of a teaspoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of oil, 2 tablespoons of yoghurt and the lemon juice. Blitz for a minute to form a rough paste, and then transfer to a medium bowl. Mix through the rest of the yoghurt and keep in the fridge. ● Heat the remaining 110ml of oil in a small saucepan on a high heat. Add the garlic and chilli slices, reduce the heat to medium and fry for about 5 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the garlic is golden-brown and the chilli is crispy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the garlic and chilli to a kitchen paperlined plate. ● Arrange the aubergine slices, overlapping, on a platter. Spoon the yoghurt sauce on top, sprinkle over the chilli and garlic and finish with the herbs.
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FOODIES YOTAM OTTOLENGHI
FRIED UPMA WITH POACHED EGG Upma, a thick semolina-based porridge, is a popular South Indian breakfast dish or tiffin-box staple. The spices are not as they might be if you were eating this later on in the day but, if your taste buds have woken up, you might want to increase the spices accordingly. The lime pickle is optional because it tends to slightly mask the wonderful flavour of the humble upma. Still, I love it so much that I can’t help but add a little. I have a bit of a reputation in the test kitchen for the non-return of Tupperware when leftovers have been taken home the night before. Entirely undeserved, of course, but the Indian way makes me think that designated tiffin boxes might be the way forward. Serves 4 100g chana dhal 1½ tbsp sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing the tray 1 small onion, chopped (90g) 2 tsp cumin seeds 30g fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 small green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 20 fresh curry leaves (about 3 stems) 2 tsp black mustard seeds, toasted Third of a tsp curry powder ¼ tsp ground turmeric 30g unsalted peanuts, toasted and roughly chopped 200g coarse semolina 60g ghee or clarified butter 4 eggs 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 100g Indian lime pickle (Pataks or another shopbought variety), optional 120g Greek yoghurt Salt
● Bring a small pan of water to the boil and add the chana dhal. Cook for 30 minutes, or until just cooked. Drain, refresh under cold water and set aside. ● Heat the oil in a large frying pan on a medium heat. Add the onion and cumin and cook for 4 minutes. Add the ginger, chilli, curry leaves, black mustard seeds, curry powder and turmeric and cook for 2 minutes more, stirring often. Add the peanuts, cooked dhal and 1 teaspoon of salt and fry for another minute, stirring from time to time. Add the semolina, pour over 400ml of water and cook for a final 2 minutes, stirring continuously. ● Lightly oil a 20cm square tray and spread out the semolina mix. Use a palette knife to flatten it down before setting aside for about 20 minutes, to cool and set. Wipe down the frying pan, add the butter or ghee and place on a high heat. Use a knife to cut the upma into four squares and then cut each square in half on the diagonal. Add the triangles to the pan and fry for about 6 minutes, turning once, so that both sides turn golden and crispy. ● You will need to do this in 2 batches so keep them warm, in a low oven, whilst you continue with the second batch, adding more butter if you need to. ● Finally, poach the eggs. Fill a shallow saucepan with enough water for a whole egg to cook in. Add the vinegar and bring to a rapid boil. To poach each egg, carefully break it into a cup, then gently pour into the boiling water. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and set it aside. After about 4 minutes the egg should be poached to perfection. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the poached egg to a bowl of warm water to keep it from cooling down. Once all the eggs are done, dry them on kitchen paper. ● Put two triangles on each plate, leaning one up against the other. Spoon a poached egg alongside, with some pickle, if you like, along with some yoghurt. Serve at once.
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FOODIES YOTAM OTTOLENGHI
MERINGUE ROULADE WITH ROSE PETALS AND FRESH RASPBERRIES Serves 8 For the meringue 4 egg whites (120g) 250g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp cornflour
For the cream 100g mascarpone 1 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 1½ tbsp rose water 400ml whipping cream For the filling 150g fresh raspberries 2 tbsp dried rose petals 1 tsp slivered pistachios (or regular if unavailable), crushed
● Preheat the oven to 160ºC. ● Line the base and sides of a 33cm x 24cm Swiss roll tin with greaseproof paper. Allow the paper to come about 1cm above the sides of the tin. ● In a large, clean bowl, whisk the egg whites with an electric mixer until they begin to firm up. Add the caster sugar to the whisking whites in spoonfuls or tip into the bowl in a slow stream. Continue whisking until you achieve a firm, glossy meringue. Using a large metal spoon, gently fold in the vanilla essence, vinegar and cornflour. Spread the mixture inside the lined tin and level with a palette knife. ● Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, until a crust forms and the meringue is cooked through (it will still feel soft to the touch). Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin. ● Tip the cooled meringue on to a fresh piece of greaseproof paper. Carefully peel off the lining paper. ● Meanwhile, place the mascarpone in a large mixing bowl, along with the icing sugar and rose water. Whisk to combine and become smooth, then add the whipping cream. Whisk by hand for about 4 minutes, until the cream just holds its shape. (You can do this in an electric mixer but keep a close eye on it as it’s easy to over-mix.) Spread most of the mascarpone cream over the original underside of the meringue, reserving a few tablespoons. Leave a small border around the edge of the meringue. Scatter most of the raspberries and 1½ tablespoons of rose petals all over the cream. ● Use the paper to assist you in rolling up the meringue along its long edge,until you get a perfect log shape. Carefully transfer the log on to a serving dish. Use the remaining cream to create a rough wavy strip along the top of the log. Chill for at least 30 minutes. ● When ready to serve, dust the log with icing sugar, scatter the remaining rose petals, along with the pistachios, over the top, and dot with the remaining raspberries.
Plenty More by Yotam Ottolenghi is published by Ebury Press £27 40 foodies
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MEET THE CHEFS HOLLY BELL
Mum on the run Great British Bake Off finalist Holly Bell loves cooking straightforward food for her family
Recipes from a Normal Mum is published by Quadrille £20
B
AKING HAS held my hand through life - from childhood days stamping out pastry for jam tarts to student brownies baked in less than spotless kitchens. My 20s were stressful, it was all work and a lot of play, burning the candle at both ends and so I found solace in pie and biscuit making on rare weekend downtime. Ah, and then the Mummy years began and now baking is an assisted sport voted more fun than Play Doh in our house. Baking isn’t often necessary. You don’t need to make treacle tart in order for the family to survive, so it immediately denotes itself as a pleasure. An added extra to the normal daily menu, sprinkling joy wherever the results are shared. I try never to rush baking for fear that one day a hobby I love might become a chore. Switching into baking mode begins with some music being carefully chosen, the switch and turn of the oven dial and the bubbling of the boiling kettle. Give me tea, a good recipe and some music to dance to while the treats bake and I’m a very happy woman. What of children who range from being a little reticent with new food to downright fearful? What to do with them? Certainly don’t engage in repetitive battles at teatime. Who has the time or inclination for that? I say get them in the kitchen , with their own knife, chopping board and apron, then set about preparing dinner. They may not eat the first few meals they prepare, but give it a week or so of different meal experiments and as their cooking skills grow, so too will their palate. I get inspiration from everywhere – memories of flavours from my youth, family favourites and even dreams (don’t laugh!). But mostly inspiration comes from trial and error, testing dishes on my taste team, consisting of an almost forty-year-old man who thinks a meal without meat is a form of abuse, a five-year-old with a varied palate and a three-year-old with strong opinions that change often. And this is all done with not much time and a modest budget. ●
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OVER THE RAINBOW MERINGUES Makes 9 tiny meringues, scale up as required 1 large egg (older eggs are slightly better) A pinch of cream of tartar 60g caster sugar Gel food colouring
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● Preheat the oven to 90°C or its lowest setting. The hotter the oven the more the meringues will be an off-white. Line 2 baking trays with foil, shiny side up. ● Separate your egg. I use the shell – pass the yolk from half shell to half shell until all the white has dropped into a owl below. Or hold the entire egg in a splayed hand, letting the white fall through your fingertips whilst holding on to the yolk. Or you can use an egg separator contraption. Keep the yolk for another use. ● Whisk the white and cream of tartar in a large bowl until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes with a mixer and 5-7 by hand. Add the sugar 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking after each addition. Don’t chuck the lot in and hope for the
best as you’ll end up with meringues with sugary strands. When all the sugar has been absorbed they’ll be a glossy, brilliant white and stand up to very stiff peaks. Dip a teaspoon into the colouring and swirl in the meringue for a ripple effect. Use a maximum of 2 colours to avoid hues sludging together. ● Heap tablespoons onto the trays, spaced 4cm apart to allow for swelling. Bake for 40 minutes before testing; they’re ready when they easily come away from the foil but are not coloured. This can take up to 2 hours. Turn the oven off and leave to cool in the oven if possible (this prevents the cracking that occurs from a sudden change in temperature) or on a wire rack if not.
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FOODIES HEADER
SQUIDGY SPIDER’S WEB CAKES Makes 12 cupcakes For the cakes 50g white chocolate 50g milk chocolate 50g dark chocolate 100g plain flour 100g dark brown sugar 3 tbsp cocoa powder 3/4 tsp baking powder 75ml sunflower oil 50ml double cream 50ml cold water 1 large egg, room temp
For the ganache 250g white chocolate 125ml double cream Chocolate or black writing icing tube
● Preheat the oven to 180°C and place the shelf in the middle of the oven. Fill a 12-hole cupcake tin with cases. Break all the chocolate up into pieces and place in a food processor with the blade attachment fitted. Whizz until you have pieces the size of chocolate chips. ● Put all the other cake ingredients into a bowl and use a handheld mixer to beat until smooth, about 4 minutes. Add the chocolate then spoon about a tablespoon of the mixture into the cases until just under half full, but no more than this as you will need room for the ganache. If you find you have too much mixture for your cases simply fill a few more. Bake for 20 minutes until the tops start to crack.
Remove from the tin and leave to cool completely on a wire rack. ● Make the ganache. Chop the chocolate finely, then gently heat the cream in a small saucepan until hot and bubbling. Remove from the heat and immediately stir through the chocolate until lovely and smooth. ● Pour or spoon the ganache over the cooled cakes until you have completely ‘flooded’ the top. When all the cakes are covered with ganache take the icing tube and draw a spiral from the middle outwards. Immediately drag a toothpick from the centre of the cupcake to the outside 6-8 times, dragging to separate points on the top. This will create a web effect. ● Leave to dry completely.
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SUNKEN BLACKCURRANT SQUASH LOVE CUPCAKES Makes 12 115g soft salted butter 200g caster sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten 70g fine polenta 125g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp custard powder 85g dried cherries and berries 275g icing sugar 40ml blackcurrant squash (I use Ribena) 12 heart-shaped sweets
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● Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a 12-hole cupcake tray with cases. Beat together the butter and caster sugar until very light and fluffy; this will take about 5 minutes with a mixer or double that time using a wooden spoon. ● Dribble in the eggs about a tablespoon at a time, beating well until they are all incorporated. ● Sift the polenta, flour, baking powder and custard powder into the creamed mixture and fold together with a large metal spoon. Don’t worry if you do knock a lot of the air out – it will just mean you’ll end up with slightly dipped
cupcakes, which will mean you will just have to use more icing. ● Pop 1 tablespoon of mixture into each case, sprinkle with a few dried cherries and berries and top with another tablespoon of the mixture. Bake for 20 minutes until risen, golden brown and a toothpick comes out of the centre of the cupcakes clean. Remove from the tray and leave to cool on a wire rack. ● Mix the icing sugar and squash together until very stiff and spoon over the cooled cakes. Add a sweet to the top of each and allow to set before eating.
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NEW from the makers of Scotland’S Favourite Black PuddingS* Perthshire Black Pudding is our Chef’s take on the perfect
Black Pudding recipe; its rich, flavoursome, taste is perfectly complemented by balanced sweetness thanks to the addition of home-made caramelised apples and carefully selected spices. Available in most Tesco stores throughout Scotland (subject to availability).
www.thescottishbutcher.com *Nielsen data – year ending April 2014
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RECIPES OF THE MONTH FOODIES
PAUL WEDGWOOD Chef and owner, Wedgwood The Restaurant A passionate and ambitious chef, Paul Wedgwood has run a successful restaurant in the heart of Edinburgh for over six years. His most recent venture is a partnership with Relish, a restaurant in Barbados. His time there has given his dishes a Bajan twist, having recently created what is believed to be the first Bajan Haggis! . Paul is also renowned for his use of quality, local, fresh ingredients. In fact, such emphasis is put on quality and freshness that Paul can often be found foraging for his own ingredients in woods and on river banks throughout Scotland.
wedgwoodtherestaurant. co.uk @chefwedgwood
LOBSTER THERMIDOR CRÈME BRÛLÉE Serves 4-6 500ml double cream 1 ½ cloves garlic, chopped ½ large shallot, chopped 6 egg yolks 1 ½ pinches white pepper 1 ½ pinches salt 1 tsp smoked paprika 500g lobster 37.5 ml brandy ½ tbsp Dijon mustard Juice of ¼ lemon ½ carrot, chopped ½ fennel, chopped
● Place lobster in boiling water for 4 minutes. Refresh in cold running water. Shell lobster and put meat aside. ● Sweat carrot, fennel, garlic and shallot and lobster shells. ● Flame with brandy. ● Add cream, lemon juice, Dijon, paprika and bring to boil. Simmer for 20 minutes ● Beat together eggs. Strain cream mixture and pour over eggs whisking continuously. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. ● Return to pan and cook out. ● Pour into ramekins and put in fridge to set. ● Top with a Parmesan crisp: grate Parmesan and place in a round shape the size of the brûlée and bake until crispy.
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Real Foods supplied high quality organic ingredients when they could still be bought in pounds and paid for in pennies. Systems have gone from imperial to metric since we first opened, but one thing has never changed when it comes to our own brand products; the more you buy the less you pay! And you can be assured you’ll still get the same high quality and freshness we’ve always worked hard to provide.
iStockphoto@duncan1890
All you need for a merry organic Christmas pudding
• More – choice with a range of over 500 own brand organic products in-store and online. • Organic – products packed by us that you can buy with confidence because we invest in Soil Association certification. • Ingredients – in a range of sizes from 25g to 25kg, with less cost per kilo the more you buy. You might not be putting silver sixpences in your plum puddings anymore, but you can still get a sterling range of baking ingredients at Real Foods.
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We’re no Scrooges, past, present or future, when it comes to savings on organic ingredients you can trust.
01/10/2014 00:26
RECIPES OF THE MONTH FOODIES
CLOOTIE DUMPLING
MARK GREENAWAY Chef and owner Restaurant Mark Greenaway and Bistro Moderne. Recommended in 2015 Michelin Guide
280ml water 230g butter 170g caster sugar 15g treacle 230g plain flour 15g ground cinnamon 15g ground ginger 30g mixed spice 5g bicarbonate of soda 450g mixed dried fruit 2 eggs, beaten ● Preheat oven to 180ºC. ● Melt the butter, 115g of the sugar, water and treacle together in a large pan. ● Mix the remaining sugar with the flour, spices and bicarbonate of soda. Fold these dry ingredients into the melted mixture. Stir in the mixed fruit and beaten eggs until all ingredients are combined. ● Roll the mixture into a sausage shape and cover with cling film. ● Place in a roasting tin filled with water. ● Place the tray in the oven for 1 ½ hours.
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01/10/2014 16:10
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Christmas Lunch Menu 2 courses £16.95 3 courses £19.95
47A Thistle St, Edinburgh, EH2 1DY 0131 220 2111 www.irisedinburgh.co.uk
Gift Vouchers Available 719-iris-FP.indd 1
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06/12/2013 16:14
01/10/2014 00:35
CHRISTMAS LUNCHES FOODIES FOCUS
Festive feasts It’s time to plan that Christmas menu - but why not leave the cooking (and the washing up) to the professionals?
THE POMPADOUR Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh - The Caledonian, Princes Street, Edinburgh EH1 2AB www.thepompadourbygalvin.com Possibly the most decadent way to spend the big day is indulging in the 4-course lunch being laid on by Craig Sandle at The Pompadour. Enjoy truffle-glazed beef and portsoaked stilton while gazing at the views of the Castle. £170 per person
CAFÉ ST HONORE 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, Edinburgh, EH2 1EA www.cafesthonore.com If party poppers and tipsy office
workers are your idea of hell, then Cafe St Honoré might just be perfect. This classy restaurant only adds a few fairy lights to enhance the already sophisticated mood and the menu is packed with British classics created by Chef of the Year Neil Forbes. Three courses: lunch £30, dinner £37.50.
Cafe Saint Honore
BISTRO MODERNE 15 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh, EH3 6SX www.bistromoderne.co.uk Bistro Moderne’s delicious menu and relaxed atmosphere will surely make your festive night one to remember. Chef Mark Greenaway’s menu combines delicious traditional dishes such as turkey joint carved with all the trimmings, with exciting innovative ones, like the tempura soft shell crab and tartare sauce starter. Enjoy a three-course lunch for £25 or dinner for £35. foodies 51
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KYLOE 1-3 Rutland St, EH1 2AE www.kyloerestaurant.com Carnivores will rejoice this Christmas with Kyloe’s Big Beefed Up Christmas Menu. Tuck into a roast rib of Borders beef to share, with a rocket and watercress salad, slow roast tomatoes, beef dripping chips and béarnaise sauce. Enjoy this along with a selection of starters and desserts for just £35 per person for lunch or £43 for dinner.
THE MAGNUM BAR AND RESTAURANT 1 Albany St, Edinburgh EH1 3PY www.themagnum.webeden.co.uk Celebrate Christmas at The Magnum with their special menu. Choose from delicious dishes including whisky-cured salmon with a clementine and cranberry relish, pumpernickel bread and chives; and slow-braised daub of Scottish beef with champ mash, winter vegetable and puy lentil casserole. Three courses cost just £27.95.
ANGELS WITH BAGPIPES 343 High St, Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 1PW www.angelswithbagpipes.co.uk Set on the Royal Mile, Angels with Bagpipes is the perfect place to enjoy a festive feast surrounded by the stunning Old Town. The extensive menu includes beef carpaccio with truffle mayonnaise and cider poached salmon, as well as more traditional seasonal dishes.
Gannet, Ducks and Bistro Moderne Lunch costs £21.95 for two courses or £26.95 for three, and dinner ranges between £27.95 and £32.95.
FIELD 41 West Nicholson Street, Edinburgh EH8 9DB www.fieldrestaurant.co.uk Field is all about the quality of local, seasonal produce, an ethos perfectly embodied by their Christmas menu. With four exciting dishes to choose from per course, as well as a cheeseboard and tea or coffee to top it off, Field’s festive menu is all about flavour, for the affordable price of £26 per person.
DUCKS Kilspindie House, Main Street, Aberlady EH32 0RE www.ducks.co.uk Ducks’ take on Christmas classics will make this Christmas Day
lunch a tasty one. The menu includes traditional roasted free range turkey with herb stuffing and honey jus, and an equally tasty vegetarian option of blue cheese risotto with pickled squash and walnuts. With bubbly and canapés awaiting at arrival and a delicious dessert menu, Ducks is the perfect place to enjoy a stress-free Christmas.
THE HORSEHOE RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS Eddleston, By Peebles, EH45 8QP www.horseshoeinn.co.uk The three-course Christmas lunch menu from The Horseshoe Restaurant is a fantastic selection of dishes put together with care by the kitchen team. With three options for all three courses, guests will struggle to choose from the tantalising selection on offer. A delicious way to spend Christmas Day!
THE GANNET 1155 Argyle St, Glasgow G3 8TB www.thegannetgla.com The vibrant and stylish décor of The Gannet is the perfect setting foodies 53
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for a classy yet laid back Christmas night out. For only £28.50, you can enjoy a delicious three-course meal that brings a twist to traditional Christmas dishes. With a cool and upbeat setting, a creative and innovative menu and an affordable price, what’s not to love about The Gannet?
delicious seasonal dishes, including traditional roast turkey with all the trimmings, black pudding and chestnut stuffing with cranberry and orange chutney. With the lunch menu costing £28.50 per person and the dinner menu £39.95, prepare to be amazed by this Glaswegian institution.
O SOLE MIO
THE RAVEN
32-34 Bath St, Glasgow G2 1HG www.osolemio-glasgow.com If you are tired of chestnut soup and turkey, O Sole Mio is the perfect place for you. The festive menu compromises Italian classics such as Minestroni Casalingo, Lasagna al Forno and Panettone Affogato, as well as traditional Christmas dishes, ensuring diners are spoilt for choice. The delicious three-course menu comes at a very affordable price: £16.95 for lunch or £19.95 for dinner.
81-85 Reinfield St G2 1LP www.theravenglasgow.co.uk Traditionally, chestnuts are roasted on an open fire at Christmas, but The Raven prefers to slow cook their meats instead to bring a refreshing change to the traditional Christmas menu. While a turkey dinner is available on their festive menu, the bar and diner is offering a smoked Christmas platter for their meat-loving patrons: ¼ chicken, ½ rack of ribs, pulled pork with cranberry gravy and chips make a mouth-watering alternative to the norm, with not a sprout in sight!
TWO FAT LADIES AT THE BUTTERY 652-654 Argyle St, G3 8UF twofatladiesrestaurant.com Indulge in a decadent Christmas feast in the widely acclaimed Two Fat Ladies at The Buttery. Choose from an extensive selection of
Kinloch Lodge and Kyloe
ROGANO 11 Exchange Place, G1 3AN www.roganoglasgow.com From £25 per person, Rogano’s festive menu won’t fail to get you into the Christmas spirit. Marrbury smoked salmon, slow-braised brisket of beef and sticky toffee and date pudding are just some of the mouth-watering dishes on offer, while all-time favourites oysters, lobster and lemon sole take their usual pride of place on the seasonally themed à la carte menu.
KINLOCH LODGE Sleat, Isle of Skye, IV43 8QY www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk Spoil yourself this Christmas with the ultimate festive experience at Kinloch Lodge. Set on the shores of Loch Na Dal on the stunning Isle of Skye, this 16th century former hunting lodge is the perfect setting for the glamorous break of your dreams. These three-night breaks are the last word in luxury. Prices start from £600 per person for this three-night getaway, and include dinner, bed and breakfast each night.●
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JUICE FOODIES
Turn up the juice Reboot your system for winter with fresh, vitamin-packed juice, says Deborah Gray
MAXI ‘C’
TOP TIP There are a great many wild, edible berry varieties; substitute ingredients according to what’s in season
This drink is the ultimate pick-me-up for when you feel a cold coming on. It’s packed full of vitamin C in its strongest and purest form. Makes 1 glass 150g blueberries or blackcurrants 150g cherries or redcurrants 2 kiwi fruit, peeled 2 oranges, peeled and chopped ● Put the blueberries, cherries, kiwi fruit and oranges through a juice extractor. Pour into a glass and serve immediately.
1000 Juices is published by Apple press £12.99 foodies 57
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FOODIES JUICE
TOP TIP If you have a cold, drink this warm with a little honey
GINGER SHOT Ginger is an essential ingredient in Indian Ayurvedic medicine and has been used in China for more than 2,000 years. It has powerful digestion-aiding properties and is an anti-inflammatory. Given that poor digestion and inflammation are two of our biggest health worries, adding a shot a day may well boost your health Makes 1 glass ½ apple 1 lemon, peeled and chopped 5 cm piece ginger, peeled ● Process the ingredients through a juice extractor. Pour into a glass and serve immediately.
GREEN RESTORATIVE JUICE Avocado, as well as being a delicious addition to a smoothie, contains folic acid, which can reduce cholesterol levels, and, is high in folate, which helps to keep a healthy heart Makes 2 glasses ½ medium avocado, peeled, stoned and chopped 1 small cucumber, peeled and chopped 1 small bunch parsley 5 tsp lemon juice; 1 tsp olive oil 240 ml crushed ice ● Put the avocado, chopped cucumber, parsley, lemon juice and oil in a blender and process until smooth. Add the crushed ice and process until smooth.
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Starters Pressed Game Terrine, Soused Mushrooms, Prunes Tempura Soft Shell Crab, Tartare Sauce Butternut Squash and Sage Soup, Pumpkin Oil Mains Turkey joint carved table-side to be shared by the whole table, Served with All the Trimmings
book now for chrismas £25 per person for lunch £35 per person for dinner
Fish of The Day en Papillote Vegetarian options available Desserts Christmas Pudding Parfait, Rum Soaked Raisins, Hazelnut Tuille Selection of 3 Cheese, Homemade Crackers and Fruit Cake Bûche de Noël, Cherry, White Chocolate Snow
15 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge, Edinburgh 0131 225 4431 www.bistromoderne.co.uk Xmas Menu.indd 1
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Meet me by the bonnie bonnie banks at Cameron House on Loch Lomond
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Escape to the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond and enjoy true Scottish hospitality and luxury that’s ideal for crisp days and cosy nights. What better place to watch the theatre of the Highlands unfold than from Cameron House, this five star resort indulges guests with elegant guestrooms, exquisite cuisine, championship golf, award winning spa, with a stunning rooftop pool and outdoor pursuits for all the family to enjoy. Autumn and Winter mid-week Escapes include overnight accommodation in a classic room with full Scottish breakfast and during your stay enjoy a relaxing half hour treatment at the Carrick Spa or a round of golf on the 18-hole Championship golf course the Carrick on Loch Lomond. All from just £219 per room per night
To book your stay call +44 (0)1389 755 565 quoting WES1
or www.cameronhouse.co.uk Cameron House on Loch Lomond, Dunbartonshire, G83 8QZ Terms & conditions - subject to availability until end of March 2015
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LEARN HOW TO COOK AT THE AWARD WINNING...
HANDS ON COOKERY CLASSES | DEMO AND DINE EVENINGS | HOTEL PACKAGES | CORPORATE | KIDS KITCHEN
THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE AT THE COOK SCHOOL SCOTLAND
VISIT: WWW.COOKSCHOOL.ORG TO BOOK OR FOR MORE INFO CALL 01563 550008 7 MOORFIELD PARK, KILMARNOCK KA2 0FE
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COOK SCHOOLS NEWS FOODIES FOCUS
THE COOKSCHOOL AT STEPWELL Suite 3, Clarence House, 7 Hood Street, Greenock PA15 1YH www.cookschools.co.uk Whether you are a potential Masterchef winner or a cooking novice, The Cookschool at Stepwell has a class to suit everyone. Their October calendar is packed with interesting events to make this autumn a tasty one. Join them on Saturday 25th October for their Scottish Fayre all-day event, where you will create mouth-watering variations of classic dishes. The teens in the family will also be delighted with the Cookschool’s Cupcakes + Mocktails class, running on 4th October, where they will create a selection of cupcake masterpieces and a variety of healthy mocktails.
THE COOK SCHOOL SCOTLAND 7 Moorfield Park, Kilmanrock, KA2 OFE, 30 mins from Glasgow www.cookschool.org The popular and acclaimed school will be running a Halloween-themed class for the little ones on October 16th. With a terrifying Spooky Treats menu consisting of severed fingers, chocolate spooky spiders and coconut zombie eyes, it will certainly make this year’s trick or treating original. For adults, October sees The Sister’s acclaimed chef, Jaqueline O’Donnell, share her famously delicious recipes on the 31st of October.
EDINBURGH SCHOOL OF FOOD & WINE The Coah House, Newliston Estate, Edinburgh, EH29 9EB www.esfw.com Scotland’s oldest independent cookery school, established in 1986, has a wide range of exciting offers this October. The school’s two day hands on Patisserie Course, running on 17th-18th October, will satisfy your sweet tooth. Those seeking to become the perfect dinner party host can join the school’s popular Entertaining with Style class, running on 25th October. Chocolatier aspirers will be delighted with the October Evening Masterclass, Working with Chocolate on the 30th of the month.
HYNDBERRY www.hyndberry.com Cookery lessons for up to four people are delivered in your own kitchen by Catriona Staddon, Proprietor of Hyndberry. Drawing on many years of professional cooking experience, nutrition training and love of good food, Catriona’s straightforward approach makes cooking easy as well as a lot of fun! Lessons include plenty of handson practical work, and are tailored to cover your own interests. Basic skills, special diets, fish cookery and cake decorating are just a few possibilities of what Hyndberry can offer. Classes available throughout Edinburgh, the Lothians and Borders. ● foodies 61
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Foodies August 2014_Layout 1 18/08/2014 17:51 Page 1
Brodick, Isle of Arran 01770 302234
Quote “FOODIES” when phon ing to access ou r best rates. (e
www.auchrannie.co.uk
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Escape to the Isle of Arran this autumn.....
ü 4 and 5 Star rooms and lodges ü destination spa ü children’s facilities ü dog friendly
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three restaurants and bars outdoor adventure centre two swimming pools easy access to Arran’s attractions
Great Rates this autumn at Auchrannie Bed & Breakfast from just £44.50 per person per night (based on two sharing) Dinner, Bed & Breakfast from just £59.50 per person per night (based on two sharing)
beware...auchrannie is addictive Auchrannie.indd 10
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FOODIES SPA
BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE 11 Blythswood Square, Glasgow G2 4AD www.townhousecompany.com/ blythswoodsquare/spa/ Developed in the isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, the ishga Blythswood Spa Experience will make your skin look radiant. The ishga system uses the highest quality natural ingredients provided by the purest Scottish seaweed. Enjoy the Thermal Experience in a series of rooms designed to take your body on a wet and dry, warm and cold temperature journey. The alternation of hot with cold on your body actually helps to open and cleanse the pores in your skin and this greatly assist in the aborption of products during your treatment. The offer includes full use of the Thermal Experience at Blythswood Square, two ishga treatments, a spa lunch and a gift bag for £155.
GUERLAIN SPA
BALANCE SPA
Waldorf Astoria waldorfastoriaedinburgh.com Treat yourself to a relaxing night at Guerlain Spa with their One Night Package. It includes overnight accommodation, two Guerlain Radiance Facials or Guerlain Pure Radiant Back Treatments, fresh fruit and mineral water and a Traditional Scottish Breakfast.
Crowne Plaza The Roxburgh www.theroxburghe.com Prepare to indulge this October, with Balance offering an exclusive Fall Into Autumn Package. This pampering experience, topped off with Afternoon Tea, offers a Decleor Aroma Full Body Massage, Decleor Precious Facial and full use of the facilities for £140 for two people.
FLETCHER’S COTTAGE SPA Archerfield House, East Lothian www.archerfieldhouse.com/spa/ An Autumn Spa Day is the perfect excuse to escape the busy city. The offer includes a two-hour Spa Experience, Afternoon Tea and a 60-minute Spiezia Back, Foot and Scalp Treatment for £95 Mon-Thurs and £110 Fri-Sun.
BEYONDMEDI SPA HARVEY NICHOLS www.beyondmedispa.com If you already miss smooth skin and the forever sought-after holiday glow, BeyondMedi Spa at Harvey Nichols has the perfect solution for you this October.
Their Beach Body for Life Package includes a course of 6 IPL hair removal – G-string, underarms, and half leg and 10% off pH Advantage skincare for £1872, a saving of £198. foodies 63
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TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
TOP TIP
Paolo Nutini brings his tour to Glasgow’s Hydro on Oct 27th. The Clydebuilt Bar & Kitchen’s atmosphere is perfect for a couple of pre-gig drinks
What’s New FREELANCE RESISTOR Drambuie partnered with the Secret Cinema to create this cocktail 35ml Drambuie 10ml Orgeat 2 dashes Angostura Bitters 25ml lime juice 15ml pineapple puree 15ml Bacardi gold to float ● Shake first 5 ingredients with ice, strain over cubed ice, float rum on top and garnish with citrus and mint
MARCO PIERRE WHITE STEAKHOUSE, BAR AND GRILL GLASGOW The infamous chef already has a Scottish presence with his Wheeler’s of St James’s restaurant in Dumfries. Having taken over the former Limelight Restaurant, Marco Pierre White now has a venue in Glasgow. Part of Hotel Indigo, the new venture serves classic British dishes such as fish pie, sausages and mash, beef pies and, of course, a range of dry-aged steaks. 75 Waterloo Street, Glasgow, G2 7DA Tel: 0141 226 7726 www.mpwsteakhouseglasgow.co.uk
CHA CHA LACA EDINBURGH Mexican food, mescal and tequila cocktails should all get the fiesta up and running at this new Hanover Street restaurant and bar. Steak served with crispy cactus, fajitas, burrito , tacos and
quesadillas are all on hand to help digest the cocktails. We like the sound of the Oaxaca Old Fashioned, which is made with tequila and agave syrup as opposed to the more traditional bourbon. 87 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1EE Tel: 0131 220 6733 www.facebook.com/ chachalacaedinburgh
THE JOLLY BOTANIST EDINBURGH Raising a smile through the medium of gin. This new venture is replacing the former Spider’s Web bar in Haymarket. A new kitchen is being installed and, as well as a casual dining menu, The Jolly Botanist will offer a three-course menu with gins selected to pair with each course. The company behind The Jolly Botanist also masterminded the recent conversion of The Volunteer Arms on Leith Walk into The Cask and Still. 256-260 Morrison St, Edinburgh EH3 8DT Tel: 0131 228 1949
AUTUMN WINE BeaujolaisVillages Louis Jadot Combe aux Jacques 2012, £10.99 Waitrose Ripe raspberry and cherry fruit flavours. Les Hauts de Bergelle Blanc 2011 £7.99 Majestic Fresh citrus with riper, pear-like flavours. Domaine Belle Tour Rosé Syrah Grenache 2013, £7.99 M&S Bright, dry rosé wine from south of France.
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RECIPES COCKTAILS
Shake it up Giles Looker shares this hard shake recipe TIGHT BROWN MAPLE BOURBON SHAKE 25ml Bulleit bourbon 15ml maple syrup 1 ½ balls of vanilla ice cream 80ml whole milk ● Place all ingredients into a blender and blend until a good, thick consistency. ● Pour into highball glass. Drink.
Hard shakes are one of the most difficult drinks to balance correctly. We bloody love them and I think this is the ultimate hard shake. One bit of advice: follow the recipe. The biggest mistake in a hard shake is over-pouring the booze. This recipe calls for 25ml of bourbon. If you over-pour it becomes too dominant and you lose all the flavours. This is the same with most drinks: you can always add more but you can never take away. This is a bloody tasty beverage and one I always look forward to.
The Meat Liquor Chronicles is published by Faber & Faber £25
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BLACKWOOD’S BAR & GRILL
Farmed, Caught, Bred in Scotland
We source local, focus on fresh food and prepare everything in a very unique way. Try our signature dishes - like our steak; charred and crusty on the outside yet juicily tender inside. New A la Carte Menu now available as well as fantastic 7-course Tasting Menu. Pre-Theatre Dinner Menu - from ÂŁ16 p.p. Nira Caledonia, 6 Gloucester Place, Edinburgh EH3 6EF Tel: 0131 225 2720 resevations@niracaledonia.com | niracaledonia.com
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