FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 116 ● DEC2019 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
20
WIN
ity break A luxury c rous at glamo ds o House of G
Festive recipes
to inspire you
THE BELLS ARE RINGING Celebrate Hogmanay in style
PLUS
Reviewing Scotland’s new Michelin star
DEC ISSUE 2019 ISSUE 116
MARCUS WAREING
His family Christmas
Let it snow! FEARNE COTTON Vegan treats
DOWNTON ABBEY ● PARTY COCKTAILS ● HANDMADE GIFTS
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VOUCHERS FROM £50
Scotland’s only winner in the Sunday Times ‘The Best Hotels in the World’ 2019 archerfieldhouse.com
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WELCOME
Foodies All I want for Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 26A St Andrew Square Edinburgh EH2 1AF Tel: 0131 226 7766 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk
FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 116 ● DEC2019 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
20
WIN
break A luxury city us at glamoro House of Gods
Festive recipes
to inspire you
THE BELLS ARE RINGING Celebrate Hogmanay in style
PLUS
Reviewing Scotland’s new Michelin star
DEC ISSUE 2019 ISSUE 116
MARCUS WAREING
His family Christmas
Let it snow! FEARNE COTTON Vegan treats
DOWNTON ABBEY ● PARTY COCKTAILS ● HANDMADE GIFTS
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Front cover image Baking with Kim-Joy by Kim-Joy, Quadrille, £18. Photo by Ellis Parrinder
Find out more online at our new website
foodies.co.uk EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Deputy Editor Caroline Whitham Design Vicky Axelson Production Sarah Hitchen Advertising Design Fabio Bernardo Silva
ADVERTISING Business Development Sharon Little advertising@foodies.co.uk
Christmas...
T
HE SENSE OF excitement in the Foodies office is building as we anticipate the season of feasting and partying ahead, but it’s spending time with friends and family that’s the best gift anyone could receive at this time of year. That’s why we’ve gone all out in this issue to ensure every aspect of the big day is perfect, from the ingredients, to the recipes, to the wine that tops off the celebration. We visit the real Downton Abbey, Highclere, in the company of the Countess of Carnavon, to find out how the Crawley clan would have celebrated Christmas. Meanwhile Marcus Wareing shares some of the dishes that a revered chef with Michelin stars puts on the table for his own family. If you have a vegan visiting for the festive season, there’s no need to panic. Richard Buckley’s hazelnut roast will provide a main event good enough to usurp the meat, while Fearne Cotton’s mince pies are just the thing to accompany the Queen’s Speech.
Sweet treats of a different kind come from Kim-Joy, Mary Berry and New York institution Tartine, so whether your family loves chocolate or cake, there’s something for every taste. And when you’re planning ahead, why not whip up a few edible gifts – simple and yet certain to be the most loved at this time of year. Once Christmas is over, the New Year is right on the horizon, so make sure you get out there and welcome in the new decade. Our round up of the best places to celebrate Hogmanay, whether at home or away, starts on page 49. It’s the most wonderful time of the year, so make the most of it and have your best Christmas ever. Seasons greetings and best wishes from all of us here at Foodies. Sue Hitchen, Editor
SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 558 7134
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CONTENTS
This month SHOPPING NEWS BOOKS, TV & WHAT’S ON
6
6 9 11
MARCUS WAREING 12 A fine dining Christmas for the family
15
COMPETITION
36
19
CHRISTMAS AT HIGHCLERE 20 Dishes from the real Downton Abbey FESTIVE FOOD & DRINK 27 The best ingredients for your feast VEGAN CHRISTMAS 28 Recipes that everyone will love from Fearne Cotton and more MARK DONALD 34 An exclusive chat with the head chef of Michelin-starred Number One
61
20
FESTIVE DESSERTS Mary Berry, Kim-Joy and Tartine share their holiday best
36
GIFTS FROM THE HEART Sweet treats to make at home
42
HOGMANAY PARTIES Where to bring in the New Year
49
REVIEWS
54
HEALTH & BEAUTY 57 How to get Christmas party glam
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WINE
59
COCKTAILS Celebrate the season in style
61
NEW BARS OUT & ABOUT
64 66
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FOODIES SHOPPING
Rustic Christmas garland melodymaison.co.uk, £32
North Pole Friends crackers nancyandbetty.com, £25
Star wreath gingerray.co.uk, £12.99
I’ll be home for
CHRISTMAS Fulfil your festive fantasies with these gorgeous decorative pieces Polaris gold star habitat.co.uk, £5 Globe place cards gingerray.co.uk, £8.99 for four Berry wine glasses audenza.com, £40 for four Paper Christmas trees roseand grey.co.uk, £16 Advent candles alisongardiner.co.uk, £9 each
Sillhouette window light lights4fun.co.uk, £17
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Wooden stag head bunting gingerray.co.uk, £6
Festive napkins johnlewis.com, £4
Vintage bauble wreath, diy.com, £15
Pinwheel decorations gingerray.co.uk, £6.99
Festive candleholders artisanti.com, £24 Mini reindeer party hats gingerray.co.uk, £5 for six Emma Bridgewater crockery johnlewis.com, prices vary
Bespoke glassware facebook.com/ kmcrafts94, from £5.
Brushed gold glasses vonshef.com, from £9 for two
Snowflake candleholders johnlewis.com, £14 for two
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A BRASSERIE BY MARTIN WISHART. GIFT VOUCHERS NOW AVAILABLE. THE PERFECT PRESENT THIS CHRISTMAS.
58A NORTH CASTLE STREET EDINBURGH EH2 3LU PHONE +44 (0)131 220 2513 INFO@THEHONOURS.CO.UK THEHONOURS.CO.UK
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Foodies
NEWS WHAT’S THE TEA? Edinburgh experts Eteaket are encouraging their customers to take a new look at tea this month, with their Christmas Advent Tea Chest taking you on a journey through hot toddies, tea lattes and even tea hot chocolate. eteaket.co.uk
SURPRISE MINCE PIES Lizi’s Granola is turning mince pies on their head and making them healthy. Visit their website for a homemade pie recipe that’s vegan, high in fibre and with slow energy release, but still delicious enough to serve to family and friends this festive season. Plus they’re really pretty, too. www.lizis.co.uk
HAWD YER WHEESHT THE BIG CHEESE South Lanarkshire’s Corra Linn has won Best Scottish Cheese at the 2019 World Cheese Awards, held in Bergamo, Italy. The hard sheep’s cheese, made in the Errington family dairy, was praised by the judges for its nutty flavour. erringtoncheese.co.uk
Perfect for Christmas, Harviestoun’s new dark ale hides a wee secret – it’s alcohol free. Ideal for when you’re driving or want to take a break over the New Year, but don’t want to miss out on the fun, Wheesht offers flavours of roasted chocolate and dried fruit. harviestoun.com
FEARNE’S GOT THE BUG
SAILING FOR GOOD
Martin Wishart has exchanged Michelin stars for navigating by the North Star, as he sails across the Atlantic, raising money for the Cure Parkinson’s Trust. Follow along with his journey and donate at the link below. uk.virginmoneygiving.com/martinwishart
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I’m a Celebrity’s Fearne McCann has teamed up with Chiquito to launch their Beer and Bug initiative. If you order a pint or bottle of Corona, they’re offering free Chilli & Lime or Peri Peri crickets alongside. The restaurant chain is hoping to promote insect protein as a sustainable meat alternative. chiquito.co.uk foodies 9
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CHRISTMAS AT
£28
PER PERSON
THREE COURSE
BOOK TODAY
CHRISTMAS@CHOPHOUSESTEAK.CO.UK
CHOPHOUSESTEAK.CO.UK
FOLLOW US
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BOOKS, TV & WHAT’S ON FOODIES
Cooking the books A Cheesemonger’s History Ned Palmer, Profile Books, £16.99 Cheesemonger Ned Palmer uncovers the hidden histories of favourites like cheddar. How to Drink Gin Sue Telford, RedDoor Press, £12.99 Gin expert Telford offers a practical, cookerystyle book about gin that demystifies the most exciting and versatile of spirits. Barley: A Whisky’s Journey Maria Ruth Murphy, Ragged Butterfly, £7.99 Local author Murphy’s debut novel follows a barley grain through the distillation process and his travels around the world as a whisky.
Gino’s Italian Express Let Gino D’Acampo transport you away from the freezing weather to sunny Italy, where he tours the country in search of the best recipes. Everything is made with simple, local ingredients so they’re easy to make at home. In the meantime there’s also time for fun, and Gino even stands in as a life model for art students in Verona. Gino’s Italian Express, ITV, 9pm on Thursdays
What’s on A RARE FAYRE 7th Dec, Oldmeldrum Glen Garioch are hosting their own whisky festival, held at their distillery. There will be a range of food and craft stalls from local producers, as well as the chance to sample Glen Garioch Missouri Oak, launching at the festival. The new expression has spent over seven years maturing in a Missouri Virgin Oak barrel, and is part of a series of three USinspired whiskies. foodies.co.uk
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NEARLY LEGLESS MICK’S CHRISTMAS PARTY 6th Dec, Glasgow Get your wands out as cocktail maestro Nearly Legless Mick leads you through a magical potions class for grown-ups. If you always wanted to bottle fame and brew glory with Professor Snape, you’ll love learning about festive mixology in the secret back room of The Root of Magic, a Harry Potter-themed shop on Cresswell Lane.
BREAKFAST WITH SANTA 14th Dec, Edinburgh It’s a rock n’ roll Christmas with Santa as kids and toddlers (accompanied by an adult, of course) are invited down to the Hard Rock Café to meet the jolly man himself. Alongside the chance to sit on Santa’s knee, there will be breakfast, presents and entertainment to keep the wee ones rockin’ around the Christmas tree. foodies 11
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MARCUS WAREING FOODIES
Fit for a
KING
Marcus Wareing guides you through a Christmas dinner that will dazzle your festive guests
Marmalade and Earl Grey tea-glazed ham Cloves impart a huge amount of flavour and therefore must be used sparingly. A little goes a long way – chew on one and your mouth will turn numb. Clove oil is used for toothache for that very reason!
Serves: 6–8 2–3kg middle-cut unsmoked gammon, knuckle on 1 onion, quartered 2 carrots, halved 2 celery sticks 2 bay leaves 1 tsp black peppercorns 4 cloves 4 tbsp Earl Grey tea leaves, or 8 tea bags 200g marmalade
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● Place the gammon in a large saucepan. Add the onion, carrots, celery, bay leaves, peppercorns and cloves. Cover with cold water and place over medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface, and cook for 1½ hours. Turn the heat off and allow the gammon to sit in the liquid for a further 30 minutes. Remove from the pan and leave until cool enough to handle. Strain off the liquid and keep it for soup (bearing in mind it will be rather salty). ● Once the ham is cool enough to touch, place it on your chopping board and cut away the skin, leaving a 1cm-thick layer of fat intact on the ham. Gently score the fat with crisscross marks to create a diamond pattern.
● Preheat the oven to 190°C and line a roasting tray with foil. ● Pour 100ml water into a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the tea leaves or bags and remove from the heat. Leave to infuse for 6 minutes then strain into a bowl. Add the marmalade to the bowl and mix well. ● Transfer the gammon to the lined roasting tray and brush it liberally with the marmalade mix (keep a little back to use for a second glaze in the process). Place in the oven for 20 minutes, brush with the remaining glaze and return to the oven for a further 10 minutes, until the fat is crisp. ● Remove from the oven, cover with the foil and leave to rest for 20 minutes before carving.
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GIVE THE GIFT OF FINE DINING THIS CHRISTMAS On this festive period, book and enjoy a Michelin star meal at Restaurant Martin Wishart or choose the perfect gift: Treat your loved ones this Christmas to a gastronomic experience with vouchers available online. www.martin-wishart.co.uk 54 shore, Edinburgh, EH6 6RA. Tel: 01315533557
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MARCUS WAREING FOODIES
Quick gin-cured salmon with horseradish and parsnip Serves: 6–8 10g butter 1 tbsp olive oil 2 small parsnips, peeled and grated (250g) 25ml milk 1 tbsp horseradish sauce 2 tbsp crème fraîche 150g piece of boneless and skinless salmon fillet 1 tbsp rock salt Finely grated zest of ½ orange 25ml gin 3 slices pumpernickel bread, toasted 2 tbsp finely chopped dill Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper foodies.co.uk
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● Heat the butter and olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add the grated parsnip. Season well with salt and pepper and cook for around 5 minutes until golden and soft. Add the milk and bring to a simmer for 5 minutes. Transfer the parsnip to a small blender or food processor. Add the horseradish and crème fraîche and blitz until smooth. ● Slice the salmon as thinly as possible across the fillet (against the grain). Lay the slices in the bottom of a shallow dish. Mix the rock
salt and orange zest together then rub it onto the sliced salmon. Leave to sit for 10 minutes, then add the gin and leave for a further 10 minutes. Rinse the cure off the salmon under cold running water then pat the salmon slices dry with kitchen paper. ● Cut the pumpernickel bread into rectangles approximately 6 x 2cm. You should get around 20 slices. Spread the parsnip cream onto the slices of bread. Place a piece of salmon on top and finish with the chopped dill. foodies 15
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FOODIES MARCUS WAREING
Quince, rosemary and honey trifle I prefer my trifle not straight from the fridge as the flavour and texture improve when it is not so cold. I therefore make all the elements up then assemble it just prior to serving.
Serves 8 250g honey 1 sprig rosemary 2 large quince, peeled, quartered and cored (550g) 3 gelatine leaves 200g Madeira cake, diced into 2cm cubes 25ml dry sherry
For the custard 150ml milk 150ml double cream 3 sprigs rosemary 4 egg yolks 50g caster sugar 2 gelatine leaves For the cream 150g double cream 100g crème fraîche Finely grated zest of 1 clementine
Marcus Everyday by Marcus Wareing, with photography by Susan Bell (HarperCollins, £20) 16 foodies
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● Place the honey and rosemary
in a medium saucepan. Add 750ml warm water, bring to the boil then reduce to a gentle simmer and add the quince. Cover and simmer for 1½ hours, until the quince is soft. ● Strain the quince over a heatproof bowl and pour the liquid back into the saucepan. Return to the heat and simmer for a further 10–15 minutes. Pour the liquid from the saucepan into a measuring jug – you want 400ml. Return this to the pan, setting the rest aside. ● When the quince is cool enough to touch, cut it into 2cm dice and refrigerate. ● Soak the three gelatine leaves in a shallow bowl of cold water for 5 minutes. ● Bring the 400ml of syrup to the boil. Squeeze the water from the gelatine and then stir it into the hot liquid until completely dissolved. Strain the mixture into a clean heatproof container and refrigerate for 1–3 hours until set. ● To make the custard, put the milk, cream and rosemary sprigs in a medium saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer then remove from the heat. Cover with cling film and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Strain, discarding the rosemary, and pour the infused
milk back into the saucepan. Bring back to just below the boil, stirring frequently. ● Put the egg yolks and sugar in a mixing bowl and whisk together. Slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the bowl, whisking as you do so. ● Pour the mixture back into the pan and cook over a very low heat, stirring continuously, until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon. While the custard is cooking, soak the two leaves of gelatine in a shallow bowl of cold water for 5 minutes. ● Squeeze the water from the gelatine and stir it into the hot custard until completely dissolved. Strain through a sieve, cover and chill in the fridge. ● For the cream, whisk the cream, crème fraîche and clementine zest together in a bowl until stiff peaks form. ● To assemble the trifle, place the quince, diced sponge and sherry in your trifle bowl along with 200ml of the reserved quince syrup. Cut the quince jelly into cubes and add it to the bowl. Mix everything together very gently. Whisk the custard then pour it on top. Finish with the cream and serve straight away or refrigerate for up to 4 hours before serving. foodies.co.uk
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
‘Any leftover quince syrup makes a great Use any addition to Champagne cocktails’ young vegetables you have available
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WIN
Win an overnight stay and cocktails at House of Gods
L
ive out all your rock star fantasies and win an overnight stay and bespoke cocktails at House of Gods, the most decadent new addition to Edinburgh’s hotel scene. Whether linen suits or lurid latex best sums up your style, House of Gods on Cowgate welcomes you like one of their own, with an unquestionable air of refined cool. Not only that, it manages to uphold the Capital’s reputation as one of the world’s leading cocktail destinations. Every detail – from the Gucci Heron wallpaper lining the Lounge Bar, to the private bars
hidden behind antique mirrors and floor-to-ceiling marble in every oak-panelled en-suite – has been handpicked by owners Ross and Mike Baxter. Having spent years in London honing their craft, the brothers couldn’t wait to return to their
TO ENTER For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question: Who are the owners of House of Gods? To win, enter online at foodies.co.uk
hometown of Edinburgh, bringing with them the very best of their combined skills and knowledge. The rooms (from cabins to penthouse) are inspired by the compartments of the Orient Express and the bespoke cocktail menu draws on tales of rock n’ roll debauchery. A stream of resident DJs can be found basking in the glitter of a giant disco ball crowning the bar. For those looking to lay their head somewhere that can match Scotland’s capital in terms of style and character, House of Gods is undoubtedly the one. houseofgodshotel.com
The prize comprises an overnight stay in a classic room for 2 people and £20 bar tab for the cocktail list. Excludes Friday & Saturday and certain other dates will be excluded at management discretion. Dates are subject to availability. The prize is redeemable before the 01 March 2020. Entrant and guest must be 18+. The prize is non-transferable and there is no cash alternative. The editor’s decision is final. Non-transferrable. Editor’s choice is final. foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES CHRISTMAS AT HIGHCLERE
Celebrate the season in grand style, as The Countess of Carnavon leads you through the family’s favourite dinner at Highclere, the real Downton Abbey
Abbey
Christmas
Classic roast turkey Serves 10–12 5kg oven-ready turkey 1 bunch rosemary 1 bunch thyme 1 bunch sage 2 strips lemon zest 1 onion, peeled 2 tbsp butter 4 tbsp butter or duck fat, melted
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● If stuffing the bird, spoon the stuffing mixture into the neck cavity at the base. Secure the skin flap in place with two skewers. If cooking the stuffing separately from the turkey, divide the mixture into 12 balls and set on a baking tray, or pack into an ovenproof dish. ● Tie all the herbs and lemon zest together in a bunch with some kitchen string. ● Place the onion and 2 tablespoons of butter inside the turkey’s main cavity, then put the bouquet of herbs in the mouth of the main cavity. ● Truss the turkey legs close together at the foot end and tie tightly with string. ● Brush the whole of the outside of the turkey with some of the melted butter or duck fat. Put the remaining fat in the base of a large roasting tin.
● Cover the neck cavity and the feet end of the drumsticks with a layer of foil or baking paper covered in foil. This will prevent them burning and giving the juices that run from the bird a bitter taste. ● Put the bird in the oven and roast for 2¼ hours. Baste the turkey twice during cooking. Ovens vary – place a strip of foil lightly over the surface of the turkey if you feel the breast skin is becoming too brown. ● Test the turkey to see if it is done: insert a long skewer into the deepest part of the thigh, through into the breast meat. If the juices are clear the meat is done; if they are pink, return the turkey to the oven and cook for another 15 minutes before testing again. ● Lift the turkey from the roasting tin and place on a platter. Cover with two layers of wide tin foil and leave to rest for up to an hour before carving.
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Christmas at Highclere by The Countess of Carnavon, Cornerstone, ÂŁ30 foodies.co.uk
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THE FINEST SMOKED AT L A N T I C S A L M O N FROM THE ISLE OF LEWIS UIGLODGE.CO.UK T. 0 18 51 6 7 2 3 9 6
ORKNEY’S FIRST DISTILLERY IN OVER 130 YEARS!
Tours – Tastings – Shop www.deernessdistillery.com 01856 741264
Commence your sensory journey this Christmas with multi award winning spirits from Orkney’s Deerness Distillery
Sea Glass Gin – Crowned the UK’s best classic gin by Raymond Blanc in the Great British Food Awards 2019!
Purchase from www.deernessdistillery.com or www.yumbles.com/deerness or www.amazon.co.uk
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CHRISTMAS AT HIGHCLERE FOODIES
Salmon en croute Serves 6–8
● Preheat the oven to 210°C. ● Place the butter in a large saucepan
20g unsalted butter 3 banana shallots, finely chopped 400g spinach, washed Zest of 2 lemons 1kg salmon fillet, skinned, pinned and trimmed 500g block of puff pastry Flour, for dusting 1 egg, beaten Salt and pepper 200g watercress, to serve
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over medium heat and sauté the shallots for 5 minutes until softened. Add the spinach to the pan and cook until it is wilted, about 5–7 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a sieve. Press the spinach with a wooden spoon to squeeze out any excess water, then transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the lemon zest and some seasoning. ● Place the salmon on a chopping board and cut it in half. Rub the cut side of a lemon over the top side. Cover the one piece of salmon with the cooked spinach and put the other piece of salmon on top to make an oversized salmon sandwich. ● Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured worktop to approximately the thickness of a pound coin and to a size
that will encase the salmon pieces. Then place the pastry on a lined baking sheet ready for the oven (this is so you don’t have to move the salmon again). Place the salmon on one half of the puff pastry, leaving a good 2.5cm (1 inch) border on three sides. Brush this border with a little of the beaten egg. ● Fold the pastry over the salmon, gently shaping it around the fish and squeezing out the air, then press down on all the edges to seal and trim off any excess pastry. ● Use the rest of the beaten egg to glaze the pastry and decorate by scoring with a knife. ● Place in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, 30 if you like your fish fully cooked through. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before carving and serving with fresh watercress.
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Getting into the festive spirit Have you heard? We’re turning water into gin! Scotland’s newest and largest residential gin school is now open at Peebles Hydro! Looking for a present for the gin to your tonic this Christmas? Buy one of our gin experiences or vouchers!
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CHRISTMAS AT HIGHCLERE FOODIES
Serves 4–6 450g apples (half Bramley and half Cox, peeled, cored and chopped 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp powdered cinnamon 120g butter 6–8 slices of bread about ½cm thick, crusts removed 1 egg yolk To serve Whipped cream Powdered cinnamon, Icing sugar and vanilla essence, to taste
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Apple charlotte with cinnamon cream ● Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the apples in a pan with the sugar, cinnamon and 30g butter. Place over a low heat and cook the apples until soft, which should take 10–15 mins. ● Melt the remaining butter and cut the bread into rectangles. Dip one side of the bread into butter and line a 1 litre pudding basin, overlapping the slices, and press firmly into the mould, buttery side to the basin. ● When the apple mixture is cooled, beat the egg yolk into it and fill the bread-lined pudding basin. Seal the top with the remaining buttered bread slices, butter facing you.
● Place an ovenproof plate on top of the pudding with a suitable weight on top. Set aside for 30 minutes. Put the pudding into the oven for 35 minutes. Carefully remove the plate from the top and continue to bake for 10 minutes until golden brown on top. ● Remove from the oven, leave to rest in the basin for 10 minutes before turning out onto a warmed plate to serve. ● Best served with softly whipped cream, flavoured as you like by stirring through cinnamon icing sugar and vanilla essence.
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Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas without
www.walkersshortbread.com
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FESTIVE FOOD & DRINK FOODIES
‘Tis the season
WALKERS GINGERBREAD TIN walkersshortbread.com This pretty display tin is packed full of tasty gingerbread men, ready to delight your guests or keep your spirits up while you cook dinner on the big day.
Stock up your pantry with foodie essentials and extra treats for unexpected guests BRONZE TURKEY macbeths.com Get the best free-range bird money can buy as the centrepiece of the main event. Macbeth’s Butchers offer a Kelly Bronze turkey raised to the highest welfare standards.
1881 DRY HYDRO GIN peebleshydro.co.uk Bottled from the famous waters of the Shieldgreen spring, 1881’s take on a London dry gin includes hawthorn, birch and fir alongside the juniper for a clean, fresh spirit.
VEGAN CHRISTMAS DESSERTS realfoods.co.uk Real Foods in Edinburgh stocks a full range of Veganettone Christmas cakes, including chocolate, mixed berries and classic. Their mini set also makes a perfect gift. MAKES A PERFECT FOODIE GIFT
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MACKAY’S PRESERVES mackays.com Don’t forget that special breakfast on Christmas morning after stockings. Mackays preserves will keep spirits high.
BLUE CHRISTMAS theethicaldairy.co.uk Make sure your cheeseboard is up to snuff with Ethical Dairy blue cheeses – the pack includes Fleet Valley Blue and Bluebell.
TRY THE FIG JAM WITH THIS CHEESE
LUSS SMOKEHOUSE SALMON luss-smokehouse.com Smoked salmon starters will never be the same once you try beech-smoked salmon. Luss smokes all their own in-house.
CHAMPAGNE &TRUFFLES BOX houseofbruar.com The go-to gift to keep on hand in case you need a present at the last minute – anyone would be delighted by your thoughtfulness. foodies 27
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FOODIES VEGAN CHRISTMAS
Save the day! So you’ve got a vegan coming over for Christmas – what do you you serve them? Fearne Cotton and Richard Buckley share their recipes for plant-based dishes so delicious, the whole family will want to tuck in
Fearne Cotton’s mince pies Makes 18 270g white spelt flour plus extra for dusting 250g coconut oil, chilled and cut into small pieces ¼ tsp salt Zest of 1 orange 70ml iced water 60ml maple syrup Soya milk and agave syrup, for glazing 40g sultanas 40g raisins 40g currants 40g mixed peel 25g pecans, finely chopped 100g coconut palm sugar ½ tsp mixed spice 2 tbsp coconut oil, melted Zest of ½ lemon 2 tbsp orange juice 1 cooking apple, unpeeled, cored and grated
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A lovely friend of mine, Tanya, has a raw food café in London that makes the most exceptional vegan mince pies, which each year I seem to exhale at an alarming rate. They’re so moreish and chewy that I simply cannot get enough of them ● For the pastry, put the flour, coconut
oil, salt and half the orange zest into a food processor and pulse on and off until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Transfer to a bowl and stir through the iced water and maple syrup. Use your hand to gather the dough into a ball. Flatten, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 20 minutes. ● Meanwhile, in a large bowl place all the filling ingredients plus the remaining orange zest and stir well. ● Preheat the oven to 190°C. Grease the muffin tins with a flavourless oil or vegan butter. ● Roll out the pastry to a thickness
of 3mm. Use a 9-10cm round cutter to stamp out 18 circles. Gently press them into the muffin tins and spoon 1½ tablespoons of mincemeat into each case. With the remaining pastry cut out 18 smaller circles or stars and place on top of the mince pies. Whisk together 1 tablespoon each of soya milk and maple syrup and brush over the top of the mince pies, to glaze. ● Bake the pies for 25-30 minutes or until they turn deep golden. Remove and leave to cool for 10 minutes in the tins, then transfer to a wire cooling rack to cool completely. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days or can be frozen for up to a month. foodies.co.uk
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From Happy Vegan, Fearne Cotton, Orion Spring, ÂŁ20 foodies.co.uk
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From Happy Vegan, Fearne Cotton, Orion Spring, ÂŁ20 foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES VEGAN CHRISTMAS
Richard Buckley’s hazelnut roast ● Preheat the oven to 180°C. ● Peel the celeriac and onion and cut
Serves: 4 For the nut roast 1 large celeriac (at least 900g to give 500g peeled) 1 large onion 2 cloves of garlic, peeled but whole 25ml rapeseed oil 8g sea salt 100g hazelnuts 100g cashew nuts 50g sunflower seeds 30g cornflour 15g mustard 1/8 nutmeg, grated Rapeseed oil For accompaniments to this recipe, visit foodies.co.uk 30 foodies
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into 2cm chunks. Place in a large bowl along with the garlic, rapeseed oil and 3g of the salt. Mix everything together, then spread out on a large baking tray. Cover the tray with tin foil and roast the celeriac in the oven for 30-40 minutes until soft. ● Meanwhile, put the hazelnuts and cashews on a baking tray and roast for 7 minutes or until golden. Put the sunflower seeds in a frying pan with a splash of oil and fry until dark golden. Transfer the seeds to a food processor, process until fine crumbs, then put in a large bowl. Put the cashews and hazelnuts in the food processor and pulse to a coarse crumb, with some lumps, then add to the sunflower seeds. Put the onions, garlic and celeriac into the food processor and pulse to a coarse mash. Add to the nuts and seeds and mix everything together. Add the cornflour, mustard, remaining 5g of salt and grated nutmeg and mix well. ● Lay out a 45cm strip of cling film, then lay another strip on top. Spoon a
quarter of the mix onto this and form into a rough sausage shape about 4cm thick. Fold over the bottom edge of the cling film and roll the mix up to form a sausage about 3cm thick. Fold the cling film over and roll the sausage tightly in the cling film. Twist one end of the cling film to tie it closed. Squeeze the air out of the other side and twist the other end to form a tight, round, watertight sausage shape with no air pockets. Tie closed. Repeat with the remaining mix to make 4 sausages in total. ● Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and add the sausages. Turn down to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes, then remove one at a time and plunge into a bowl of ice-cold water. Once cool, transfer to the fridge for at least an hour but ideally overnight, to firm up. ● Remove the cling film from the nut roast, trim off the ends and cut into 1.5cm thick slices. Line a baking tray with baking parchment and lay the nut roast slices on it. Drizzle oil over each slice and put into the oven for 25 minutes to warm through and crisp up. foodies.co.uk
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This nut roast is very special - it really tastes of nuts with a beautiful depth and complexity of flavour
From Plants Taste Better by Richard Buckley, Jacqui Small, ÂŁ25. Photos by Kim Lightbody foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES VEGAN XXXX CHRISTMAS
Vegan Christmas pudding Serves 10 200g mixed dried fruit 50g candied peel 100g dried figs, chopped 100g pitted dates, chopped 50g glacè Morello cherries, halved 100ml brandy 100g vegetable suet 75g soft brown sugar ½ orange, zested ½ lemon, zested 85g plain flour ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp nutmeg ½ tsp ground ginger 1 tsp mixed spice 1 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp salt 1 apple, peeled and grated 40g breadcrumbs 1 tbsp black treacle
● Grease a 1 litre pudding basin. Cut a circle of baking paper and fit it into the base. ● In a bowl, combine all the chopped dried fruit with the alcohol and leave to soak for 2 hrs, stirring occasionally, to allow the fruit to soften. ● In a large bowl, cream together the suet with the sugar and orange and lemon zest. Sift in the flour, baking powder, spices and salt, and stir to combine. Add the grated apple, breadcrumbs, treacle and the soaked fruit along with its liquid. Mix well. ● Spoon the mixture into the pudding basin, pushing it down with the spoon and smoothing the top. Cover with a large piece of non-stick baking paper, folded to give a double thickness, then pleated in the middle (to allow the pudding to expand). Cover this with a piece of foil, tie string around the basin to keep paper and foil in place, then make a loop of string to use as a handle to lift the pudding out of the pan after cooking.
● Put an upturned saucer or small plate in the bottom of a large saucepan. Carefully stand the pudding basin on the saucer, then pour boiling water into the pan so it comes about halfway up the basin. The water shouldn’t touch the foil or it may seep into the pudding. Bring to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer, cover with a lid and cook for 4 hrs. Check occasionally to see if the water has boiled away and add more. ● When the pudding is cooked, carefully lift it out of the pan and allow to cool for 15-20 mins. Turn out onto a serving plate and cut into slices to serve. Tip: This pudding can be made up to a week in advance. Allow to cool completely, then remove the baking paper and foil. Re-cover with clean foil and store in a cool dry place until needed. Before serving, cover with paper and foil, then reheat as above in a pan of boiling water for 1 hr.
Find this recipe and many more Christmas ideas at realfood.tesco.com
Grated apple helps keep this pudding moist, and it’s packed with all the traditional fruits and festive spices
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e, , e r f n- , soy s e t glu -free stma t s e airy hri b he e, d ree Cveerr££3399 t r Fo t-fre ar-f rrddeerrssoov ea sug veerryyffoorroo h w and KKddeelliiv UU salt FFrreeee 37 Broughton Street, Edinburgh EH1 3JU | 8 Brougham Street, Edinburgh EH3 9JH
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CHEF Q&A MARK DONALD
FOLLOW THE
STAR Mark Donald, head chef at Number One at The Balmoral, on coming home and his joy at retaining the Michelin star
How did it feel to retain Number One’s Michelin Star? Totally thrilling! The whole team were delighted to have been awarded a star in the 2020 guide. The
restaurant has held one since 2003 and I was honoured to have continued that legacy. I am incredibly excited for the year ahead and to continue to grow and evolve with the team.
What made you want to be a chef? I didn’t always want to be a chef. I was always creative from a very young age and I had applied to go to acting school, but I had a job washing dishes at a place where my sister was a waitress. The chefs would go out the back door and smoke and I would call them back when a new order
came in. Eventually I stopped calling them in and started cooking myself. Who has influenced your style of cooking? Everyone a chef works for influences them and their own eventual cooking style. Andrew Fairlie, Claude Bosi, Brent Savage and René Redzepi are chefs I would consider my main influences. You worked overseas for years. What led you home to Scotland? Lots of things. I wanted to be closer to my family after having been away on and off for so long. I love travelling but couldn’t see myself running a kitchen
Christmas wishing trees are blooming in The Balmoral in aid of the Make a Wish Foundation 34 foodies
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MARK DONALD CHEF Q&A
outside of Scotland for my next role. It’s a classic case of ‘it’s where you’re from’.
Smoked potato and egg yolk ravioli Makes 10
What did you learn from working in other countries? Well there’s obviously the produce and the seasons that are the biggest difference in other countries. The flora and fauna is incredibly different from country to country, a lot of which is totally unique and indigenous to that region. Exposure to different cultures, techniques and ingredients has been invaluable. What’s your favourite seasonal ingredient right now ? Crown prince pumpkin. Especially in desserts. Has Jeff Bland’s retirement changed things at Number One? Jeff Bland was and still is a legend around the hotel. He was so well respected by guests, colleagues, and senior management alike. He was the one who interviewed me and eventually gave me the job. After he tasted my first menu he trusted me and left me to my own devices. Several of our regulars still ask fondly after him and I always try to respect his legacy. foodies.co.uk
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For the onion broth 1kg white onion 1kg red onion 2kg chicken stock 500g fennel (sliced and roasted until golden) 50g garlic (sliced and roasted until golden) 50g ginger (peeled, sliced fine) For the filling 1kg Rooster potato flesh (hot, roasted in skin and passed through a ricer) 200g smoked butter 200g smoked milk Salt and smoked oil To assemble 10 eggs To serve Aged Comté Chickweed Onion crisps Roscoff onion Cevenne onion Pickled Thai shallot Chive oil
● The day before, start the onion broth. Cut the onions horizontally and roast the cut faces on a high heat with a little oil. Once roasted, peel, put in a large pot and cover with stock. Cook very slowly overnight. ● Pass the stock through a sieve into a clean pot. Season with apple juice, salt and apple vinegar. ● Make the pasta – see foodies.co.uk for recipe. ● For the filling, add the potato to a small pan and put on the stove at a low to medium heat. Add the milk and butter gradually until well combined. Season to taste with salt and oil. Pass the mixture again through a sieve. Put the mash into a piping bag and allow to cool. ● To assemble the ravioli, crack 10 eggs
into a bowl, set aside. ● Pipe the mash onto the pasta in the shape of a beehive around 1.5 inches high, leaving a space in the centre for your yolks. Repeat. ● Carefully separate each yolk and slide into the hole in each mash cup. Pipe the remaining mash on top of each. ● Roll another sheet of pasta out and cover the little beehives. Press the pasta down and around each egg, taking care not to break the structure you have just made. Be sure to expel any air pockets otherwise they will burst in the water. ● Cook the ravioli for 4½ minutes in a pan of heavily seasoned, almost boiling water. ● For serving instructions visit foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES CHRISTMAS DESSERTS
Sugar & Spice
Christmas isn’t complete without a little something sweet. Mary Berry, Kim-Joy and the Tartine team share their most delicious festive bakes
Serves 16-20 1 spiced carrot and walnut cake (see Foodies.co.uk for recipe), baked and cooled 1 quantity cream cheese frosting (as above) Salted caramel (as above) Gold and silver edible paint (optional) Red sugarpaste Icing sugar, for dusting
For the Christmas houses 150g salted butter 120g dark Muscovado sugar 2 tsp black treacle 2 tbsp beaten egg 2 tbsp ground ginger ¾ tbsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground cloves 225g plain flour Royal icing For the Christmas trees Cornflour Dark green sugarpaste
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Kim-Joy’s snowy christmas cake ● If using cream cheese frosting as your filling, just cover the top and sides of the cake and smooth, then chill in the fridge or freezer. No time? You can also just leave the cake semi-naked (just crumbcoat) for a more rustic feel. ● Make the Christmas houses. Line a baking sheet with baking paper. Place the butter, sugar and treacle in a stand mixer (or use a handheld electric whisk) fitted with the balloon whisk attachment and mix on high speed until fluffy. Add the beaten egg and spices and mix briefly. ● Add the flour and combine into a ball with your hands. Turn out onto a floured surface and roll out to the thickness of a coin. Either use shaped cutters or go freehand to cut out your houses, then transfer to the prepared baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 170°C. ● Bake for 10–12 minutes until just beginning to colour. Leave to cool for 10 minutes on the sheet, then gently transfer to a rack to finish cooling. Use royal icing and pipe details onto the
houses to give them character. ● To make the Christmas trees, dust a fir tree mould with cornflour, then firmly press the green sugarpaste into all the grooves and smooth the back. Turn the mould upside down and slowly and carefully peel away the mould. Try lightly painting these with edible gold and silver paint for added variation in colour. ● Roll tiny red balls of sugarpaste between your palms to make ‘berries’. ● Arrange the houses and trees around the edges of the cake. Also arrange different-shaped buildings and trees on the top of the cake. Add the red ‘berries’. Transfer some leftover white buttercream to a piping bag, and use to pipe dots on the side of the cake to resemble snow falling. Use icing sugar to create the path on top of the cake. Finish with a dusting of icing sugar. ● You can add little touches to this cake to make it your own! Try making tiny snowmen out of white fondant or some Christmas elves, or even Santa sneaking around. foodies.co.uk
28/11/2019 17:39
This design works perfectly with any cake recipe that has a buttercream or cream cheese frosting. To create more of a night-time Christmas scene, you can also use dark chocolate ganache.
From Baking with Kim-Joy (Quadrille, £18.99) Photography Š Ellis Parrinder foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES CHRISTMAS DESSERTS
Mary Berry’s chocolate and hazelnut boozy roulade The perfect celebratory dessert for any special occasion, especially Christmas. If you haven’t time to make praline, top with a coarsely crushed bought praline bar.
Serves 8-10
Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Melt the chocolate slowly in a bowl over a pan of hot water. Allow to cool slightly until warm but still runny. ● Whisk the egg whites in a large mixing bowl until stiff but not dry. Put the sugar and egg yolks into a separate large bowl and whisk until light, thick and creamy. Add the melted chocolate and stir until blended. ● Gently stir two large spoonfuls of the egg whites into the mixture, then fold in the remaining egg whites, followed by the cocoa. Stir in the hazelnuts. Pour into the prepared tin and gently level the surface. Bake for 20–25 mins or until risen. ● Remove the cake from the oven and set aside to cool in the tin. Whip the cream into soft peaks and stir in the Irish Cream. Dust a large piece of non-stick baking parchment with icing sugar. Turn the cake out on to the paper and peel off the lining paper, then ●
175g plain chocolate, broken into pieces 6 eggs, separated 175g caster sugar 2 level tbsp cocoa, sieved 50g chopped and roasted hazelnuts Icing sugar, to dust
For the filling 300ml double cream 2–3 tbsp Irish Cream liqueur For the hazelnut praline 100g granulated sugar 50g whole blanched hazelnuts, halved
spread with the whipped cream. Make a cut partway through the roulade along the short edge nearest you, about 2cm in. Roll up the cake, tightly to start with, using the paper to help. Place on a long plate. ● To make the praline, put the sugar and 3 tablespoons of water into a stainless steel saucepan. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. When clear, bring up to the boil. Boil until a medium straw colour. Add the hazelnuts, then pour quickly on to a baking sheet lined with non-stick paper. Leave to cool slightly, then use a teaspoon to carefully group together clusters of nuts. Leave to cool and become hard. When set, break into pieces and arrange on the top of the roulade. Sprinkle with icing sugar to serve.
The new edition of Mary Berry Cooks up a Feast by Mary Berry and Lucy Young is published by DK (3 October 2019, £25) DK.com 38 foodies
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
Use any young vegetables you have available
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FOODIES XXXX CHRISTMAS DESSERTS FOODIES
Tartine’s millionaire’s chocolate caramel tarts Make sure to caramelise your sugar to a nice, deep colour. It’s the darker caramel that saves the tart from being overly sweet or rich, as counterintuitive as that sounds. A very light caramel hasn’t cooked out enough of the sweetness of the sugar.
Serves 6-8 6-8 good quality sweet pastry shells
For the caramel 160ml double cream 2 tbsp water 400g caster sugar 60ml water 60g unsalted butter, cold 1 tsp flaky sea salt For the dark chocolate ganache 180g dark chocolate chunks 225ml heavy cream 2 tbsp sugar syrup (see caramel recipe) 2 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature To decorate Edible gold leaf
● Have the tart shell ready for filling on
● Pour the caramel into the prepared
a baking sheet. ● To make the caramel, first make a sugar syrup by dissolving 250ml of the caster sugar in 60ml water. Set aside. ● Pour the cream into a small, heavy saucepan. Place over a medium heat and bring to just under a boil. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and keep warm. ● In a medium-sized, heavy saucepan combine 85ml of the sugar syrup, the remaining sugar and 2 tbsp water. Bring to a boil over a medium heat gently swirling the pot to dissolve the sugar. Then cook, without stirring, until the mixture is a dark amber colour, 7–8 minutes. Once it turns amber, watch it carefully as it burns quickly. ● Remove from the heat, add half the butter and swirl into the caramel, then slowly and carefully add the warmed cream. The mixture will boil vigorously at first. Let the mixture settle, then whisk until smooth. Add the rest of the butter, whisk again to combine, and place the pot over medium/low heat. Let the caramel gently boil for 30 seconds to thicken. Remove from the heat.
tart shell and allow to cool and set, about 2 hours. Sprinkle the sea salt over the surface of the caramel. ● To make the ganache, pour water to a depth of about 5cm into a medium saucepan, place over medium-low heat and bring to a gentle simmer. Put the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl that will rest securely on the rim of the pan and place it over, but not touching, the water. Melt the chocolate, stirring, until smooth and remove from the heat. ● Pour the cream and 2 tbsp of your reserved sugar syrup into a small saucepan. Place over a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Pour the cream over the chocolate and stir gently to incorporate as little air as possible until smooth. Stir in the butter. ● Pour the ganache over the caramel layer and turn and tilt the tart to create an even layer. Allow the chocolate to set at room temperature, about 2 hours. Top with edible gold leaf in random patterns.
Tartine: A Classic Revisited by Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson is published by Chronicle Books, £29 40 foodies
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Naturally
gifted Show your loved ones how much you’re thinking of them with these homemade foodie presents
Mayan chocolate biscuits These chocolate biscuits are almost like a chocolate truffle in their richness, yet balanced with a light-as-air meringue-like texture. Any chocolate lover would love to receive these as a gift. A vintage box, such as the cigar box pictured, gives these biscuits a really luxurious feel.
Makes 12 biscuits 2 tbsp unsalted butter 100g dark chocolate, chopped 1 egg, separated 4 tbsp coconut sugar, molasses or brown sugar ½ tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of chilli powder or ground chipotle chilli Pinch of sea salt
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Preheat the oven to 180°C. Put the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bowl touch the water) until the chocolate has melted. ● Whisk the egg white with a pinch of salt until light, fluffy and meringue-like. ● Whisk the yolk, sugar and spices with an electric mixer or handheld electric whisk for about 5 minutes until the mixture lightens. Spoon the melted chocolate into the yolk mixture and whisk until smooth and glossy. ●
Fold the egg white through the mixture, little by little, until fully incorporated. The mixture will be quite thick. ● Dollop 12–15 rounded teaspoons of the dough on a lightly greased baking tray, leaving space between each biscuit. Bake for 5–7 minutes, or until the biscuits are set and a little cracked on top. ● Cool before removing from the tray. Finish with a pinch of sea salt if you like. ●
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MODERN LARDER FOODIES
A vintage box adds glamour to your gifts foodies.co.uk
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WWW.WHIT EHO RSEOYSTERB A R.CO.U K @W H I T E H O R S E OY S T E R B A R p_28.indd 28
@W H I T E H O R S E OY S T E R B A R 25/10/2019 15:53
MODERN LARDER FOODIES
Chestnut snowballs A stunning way to celebrate wild chestnuts, if you can get your hands on some – I love gathering them from my local woods or on an autumnal foray in the park, but if you can’t find wild chestnuts you can buy them or use vac-packed chestnuts.
Makes 12 biscuits 50g shelled, cooked chestnuts 2 tbsp butter or coconut oil 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp coconut sugar or Icing sugar, plus 75g for dusting 4 tbsp maple syrup ½ tsp ground cinnamon, plus 1 tsp for dusting A few gratings of fresh nutmeg Pinch of sea salt 75g plain white 2 tbsp chestnut flour
Finely chop or pulse the chestnuts in a food processor until they’re as fine as you can get them. Add the butter and olive oil and pulse until combined. Add the sugar, maple syrup, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and flour, and pulse until it all comes together into a dough that’s soft but firm enough to work with, a bit like Play-Doh. If it’s looking too dry, add a little water (1–3 tbsp) to bring it together. ● Chill the dough for 20 minutes in the freezer, or freeze to make the biscuits at a later date. I like to make batches of the dough during ●
chestnut season and freeze it to cook at Christmas. ● Preheat the oven to 180°C. Rub a large baking sheet with enough oil to lightly coat. Scoop the dough up by the tablespoon and roll into 12 smooth balls. Arrange on the baking sheet leaving 2–3cm between each biscuit. Bake for 10 minutes, or until golden. Cool fully before removing from the tray. ● Mix the remaining sugar with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and dust over the cooked biscuits to coat. Serve straight away or store in an airtight container for up 3 days.
These pretty snowballs make an unusual gift
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Stew with a View at... The Arches, 3 East Market Street, Edinburgh
10, Gillespie Place EH10 4HS Edinburgh ph 0131 281 0526 harajukukitchen.co.uk
IF YOU FANCY SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN A TURKEY DINNER............. COME GET YOUR SUSHI FIX! 10% off with this advert until December 31 2019
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MODERN LARDER FOODIES
Lemon curd Classic lemon curd is my favourite, but I also have a soft spot for passion fruit or blackcurrant curd. To make one of these variations, simply press the fresh fruit through a fine mesh sieve until you have 100g and use it in place of the lemon zest and juice.
Makes 2 x 150g jars Finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons 50g butter 130g caster sugar 2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
● Whisk
the egg and egg yolk together and add to the lemon mixture. ● Gently cook, whisking regularly, until the curd thickens. This should take about 15 minutes. Spoon into a cooled sterilized jar and seal with a lid. Use within 4 weeks. Refrigerate once opened.
Gifts From the Modern Larder by Rachel de Thample is published by Kyle Books, £16.99. Photography by Ali Allen
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HOGMANAY FOCUS FOODIES
2020
VISION Have a proper Hogmanay hootenanny and celebrate the New Year in style at these fabulous venues across Edinburgh, Glasgow and beyond THE BALMORAL
DINE
roccofortehotels.com Watch the fireworks over the Castle without leaving the comfort of five-star luxury at The Balmoral’s Hogmanay Gala Ball. After a champagne reception you’ll sit down to a magnificent dinner featuring dishes such as venison carpaccio, celeriac and quince, or Tweed valley fillet of beef with Jerusalem artichoke purée. Shake it all down with a post-dinner ceilidh and a traditional Auld Lang Syne to sing in the New Year.
dineedinburgh.co.uk If you want to make an unforgettable dinner the main focus of your New Year’s celebrations, then Dine is top of the list. The award-winning brasserie is dedicated to sourcing the best ingredients from across Scotland, including championing small. Independent suppliers. From the canapés at the Champagne reception to the four-course dinner, every mouthful at their Hogmanay Gala Night is carefully thought out. To top it off, Gavin Paul will be performing Rat Pack and Vegas hits to keep the good times rolling.
BREWHEMIA brewhemia.co.uk Having established themselves as the party place for Hogmanay in Edinburgh, Brewhemia are promising another dive into the world of the Glitterati with loads of live entertainment, a prosecco reception and a five-course dinner celebrating Scottish ingredients. Enjoy a cock-a-leekie terrine, smoked salmon and venison loin, along with a Cairn o’Mohr mulled wine sorbet, while drag and cabaret stars beguile your senses. foodies.co.uk
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Above: The Balmoral Below: Dine
EDINBURGH GRAND lateralcity.com Ring in 2020 in rip-roaring style with The Register Club. On arrival to the opulent cocktail lounge, guests will be treated to a welcome glass of Champagne, followed by a lavish buffet-style dinner. Next comes dancing in The Games Room – guaranteed to keep you on your feet until the wee hours – and a dram to welcome in the New Year.
Brewhemia
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THE FINEST FOOD AND DRINK FRESH FROM SCOTLAND’S NATURAL LARDER
LUXURY CHRISTMAS HAMPERS Send the very best in Scottish food and drink to friends and family this Christmas with our exclusive selection of luxury hampers. They are guaranteed to be appreciated by anyone who enjoys the finer things in life. For our full range of hampers and gift boxes see online or please call the number below for your bespoke traditional wicker hamper. The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW Telephone: 01796 483 236 Email: hampers@houseofbruar.com
WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM/FOOD-HALL
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HOGMANAY FOCUS FOODIES
BARRAS ART AND DESIGN
Above: Malmasion Edinburgh City
FISHERS IN THE CITY fishersrestaurants.co.uk If you’re looking for the best seafood before heading out to the street party, Fishers have you covered. From hand-dived Orkney scallops with pickled apple and crushed horseradish potatoes to whole lemon sole with chestnut and parsley butter, rocket and potato salad, seafood lovers will be in heaven. Then it’s only a short hop up the hill for the fireworks.
MALMAISON EDINBURGH malmaison.com The newest addition to the Mal family, Malmaison Edinburgh City is located bang on St Andrew Square and features all the brand’s signature quirkiness. It makes a perfect base if you’re heading out to the street party, but staying in is just as tempting with dinner at Chez Mal and live entertainment laid on to keep you bopping ‘til the bells.
baadglasgow.com Big hair, bigger shoulder pads and massive tunes are the order of the evening at BAaD, as the glass-roofed venue gets an 80s makeover for Hogmanay. Hits from the likes of Donna Summer, Madonna and Prince will keep the dance floor jumping, while a live stage show with drag queens provides further entertainment.
KIMPTON BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE kimptonblythswoodsquare.com Whisk yourself away to a glamorous house party experience in the heart of the city at Kimpton Blythswood Square, where you can toast the New Year with a bottle of Moët et Chandon in the salon after a sumptuous three-course dinner. With dishes like Orkney crab and watercress risotto, crispy quail’s egg and lemon oil, followed by roast rack of lamb, celeriac purée, salt baked potato and kale, it’s sure to be a very happy Hogmanay.
LYCHEE ORIENTAL
Scotland. Their locally-sourced five-course banquet dinner includes dishes such as fresh crabmeat and sweetcorn soup, chargrilled fillet of beef in black pepper sauce and king scallops with broccoli. Or go a la carte and try twicecooked pork belly with aubergines, braised monkfish with enoki mushrooms or Thai-style crispy seabass.
RED SKY BAR www.redskybar.com Very few places in Glasgow boast such stunning views as the Sky Bar on top of the new Radisson RED hotel. Gaze out across the river and see the fireworks going off across the city at midnight, all while listening to the beats of the in-house DJs. If fizz ain’t your thing, they’re known for their inventive cocktails that will keep the party going into the wee small hours.
lycheeoriental.co.uk Give your New Year a more exotic flavour at Lychee Oriental, winner of the Best Chinese Restaurant in
Above: Lychee Oriental Below: Red Sky Bar
Ubiquitous Chip
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FOODIES FOCUS HEADERHOGMANAY
Royal Yacht Britannia
Borthwick Castle of Loch Linnhe, the hotel has the whole island to itself. Indoors you can have dinner at the Michelinstarred restaurant. On New Year’s Eve the party kicks off with Champagne, a gala dinner and ends with fireworks over the loch.
KINLOCH LODGE
BORTHWICK CASTLE borthwickcastle.com Live out your Monarch of the Glen fantasies by booking an entire castle for your New Year’s celebrations. Guests can choose from ten bedrooms, including ones named after Mary, Queen of Scots, and Sir Walter Scott, both of whom stayed at the castle. On the grounds there is also a two-bedroom cottage as well as the romantic Gatehouse. Head chef Derek Johnstone, a Chef of the Year 2019 finalist, designs all the menus to offer the utmost in luxury to match the decadent surroundings.
ISLE OF ERISKA eriska-hotel.co.uk How does escaping to a private island for Hogmanay sound? Situated at the mouth of Loch Creran and on the eastern side 52 52 foodies foodies
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kinloch-lodge.co.uk Let the warm hospitality of the Kinloch team put you in the mood for a true Highland Hogmanay. Marcello Tully’s sevencourse tasting menu is sure to keep you occupied in the lead up to the bells, while fireworks and Champagne cocktails will see 2020 in with a bang.
Hydro is the perfect place for families to celebrate Hogmanay in style. The three-night package includes all meals, entertainment throughout your stay and access to the leisure pool and gym (if you’re starting on those resolutions early).
THE ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA & FINGAL fingal.co.uk Float into two days of elegance on board The Royal Yacht Britannia and the boutique hotel Fingal. On the 30th, after a Champagne afternoon tea on board Fingal, head over to The Royal Yacht Britannia for a dinner fit for the Queen. On New Year’s Eve Fingal’s magnificent ballroom will play host to a fivecourse dinner. Countdown to the bells with a piper to welcome in the New Year, followed by a ceilidh.
MARCLIFFE HOTEL & SPA marcliffe.com A countryside escape located conveniently close to Aberdeen, the Marcliffe is offering a two- or three-night break over Hogmanay filled with fun and relaxation, including a steak dinner on the 1st January and a fish and seafood menu on the 2nd. The main event is the Hogmanay Gala Ball, with a five-course dinner, music from the Magic of Motown, a disco and more fizz to welcome in the New Year.
PEEBLES HYDRO peebleshydro.co.uk Known for their festive celebrations and beautiful decorations, Peebles
Above: Kinloch Lodge Below: Isle of Eriska foodies.co.uk
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WHISKY
& C H O C O L AT E TA S T I N G S
WHISKY
& C H O C O L AT E TA S T I N G S —
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Time to taste Our top restaurant picks to try this month CONDITA When this year’s Michelin Guide was released there were two names joining the ranks of Scotland’s toprated restaurants – those rewarded with a coveted Michelin star. One of those, Isle of Eriska, we’ve recommended in our Hogmanay feature in this issue. The other, Condita, I was lucky enough to visit. Set in an unassuming row of shops, Condita’s low-lit exterior gives little away of the wonders created inside. I’m ushered to the table nearest the pass where we can observe the team finishing the carefully-constructed dishes that we will be served. Attention to detail here is everything.
The owner, Mark Slaney, buzzes between tables welcoming diners, making recommendations and offering insight into the menu, designed to unfold as a series of delightful surprises. We’re soon trying to puzzle out the menu, an illustrated bookmark that offers only drawings of ingredients as clues. We opt for the five-course option as opposed to the eight-course, but this gives us more opportunity to appreciate each dish as it arrives, accompanied by a server or chef, who explains more about what we’re experiencing. And it truly is an experience every time. We are even treated to a visit from head chef
Conor Toomey, formerly of Isle of Eriska, as the evening wends on. I was asked not to give too much away, but the first course, partly comprising a seaweed-poached mussel sitting in an edible shell, has been mentioned elsewhere so I’m happy to offer it as an example. The deceptively simple-looking dish demonstrates amply the level of skill as well as the sense of fun here, while retaining a strict devotion to flavour and provenance. With its relaxed ambiance and lack of pretense, Condita offers a guiding hand into the world of fine dining that many other Michelinstarred restaurants can’t match. For aspiring and experienced foodies alike, a visit to Condita should be top of your wishlist this Christmas. 15 Salisbury Pl, Edinburgh EH9 1SL, condita.co.uk Caroline Whitham
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RESTAURANT REVIEWS FOODIES
BROSS BAGELS THE SPANISH BUTCHER The Spanish Butcher should need no introduction to meatlovers from Glasgow – the stylish venue from the Rusk & Rusk team has been serving up prime cuts since 2016, and it’s still living up to its glowing reputation. To begin we opted for the Galician fillet sliders – a pair of perfectly scaled-down burgers topped with velvety harissa. We also enjoyed a generous helping of chargrilled squid and octopus, accompanied by a smoky chorizo broth. Before deciding on the main event we were presented with a glistening display of marbled Galician meats from which to choose, and eventually settled on the house speciality – presa iberico de bellota – a beautifully
tender shoulder cut from the Iberico pig, and large enough for two to share. We took the recommendation of mediumrare, which showcased the tender, succulent qualities to perfection. The side dishes are worth a visit to the Spanish Butcher alone, especially the gooey and savoury manchego mac & cheese with puffed paprika pork skin, while the mojo verde and peppercorn sauces brought an additional layer of richness and vibrancy. Our desserts were certainly innovative, with the ‘melon soup’ providing a refreshing contrast to the rich delights that came before it. The Spanish trifle was a decadent and boozy affair, with layers of sherry jelly and orange blossom cream offering a comforting end to one of the best meals Glasgow has to offer. 80 Miller St, Glasgow G1 1DT, spanishbutcher.com Gary McIntyre
If you’re looking for a hearty lunch that won’t break the bank, Bross Bagels’ new opening in Bruntsfield is the place to go. With stripped stone walls, yellow tiles and a distinctively funky look that reflects the chain’s Leith roots, the crowd of office workers and locals are queuing out the door to try the neighbourhood’s latest foodie offering. This particular lunchtime we’re going the traditional route and sampling the Mama Bross, a creamy chicken salad brightened with dill pickles and spring and red onion, the Mile End, filled with pastrami, swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing, and the Montreal, a classic lox and cream cheese. Each sandwich comes topped off with a cheeky sticker, saying ‘Fill your hole’. Both the Montreal and Mama Bross are big favourites, with tributes paid all around to the soft-yet-chewy bagels, the zing of the pickles and how well the flavours are balanced. The Mile End, while the quality of the pastrami shines through, could possibly do with something to give it the same punch – perhaps ask for the addition of some of the aforementioned pickles if you’re ordering it. Nonetheless, if you’re looking for an unfussy, fun lunch with tons of flavour, Bross Bagels is sure to deliver. 165A Bruntsfield Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4DG, brossbagels.com Caroline Whitham foodies 55
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The perfect gift for gin lovers Explore the world of gin with our Ginnasium tasting experience. Our Gin Expert will take you on a journey of discovery, allowing you to sample four specially selected gins and batch your very own miniature bottle of One Square Gin to take home. BOOK NOW OR BUY GIFT VOUCHER Call 0131 229 9131 or email info@onesquareedinburgh.co.uk
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FOODIES HEALTH & BEAUTY
Shine like a
‘Tis the season to party, so get ready to glow at Scotland’s top salons
STAR
NAILING IT Keep your nails perfect throughout the cooking, gift wrapping, gift unwrapping, party games and midnight toasts with a Shellac treatment at NOW by One Spa, including a nail art addition on one or two nails. Add on a Salt of the Earth treatment to keep those hands soft and smooth too. nowbyonespa.
WHAT A CHEEK For the big parties at Christmas and New Year you want smooth, airbrushed skin, smoky, glamorous eyes and full, pouty lips. Basically, if you’re looking for flawless perfection, the talented make up artists at Onyx are primed and ready to help. onyxmakeup.com
THE BIG LIFT Invest in the celeb fave HD Brows from UK Best Salon winners Zen Lifestyle. It’s a precision procedure that transforms even the most overplucked brow into its perfect shape. Meanwhile LVL Lashes straightens your lashes to lend length, thickness and uplift. zen-lifestyle.com
MAKING WAVES If your locks are looking lank, tired and uninspired, award-winning Westend Hair are offering Aveda botanical hair and scalp therapy treatments. The Botanical Moisture ritual, for example, claims to improve dry hair by up to 86%, leaving it soft and bouncy. westendhair.co.uk foodies.co.uk
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FESTIVE GIF T EXPERIENCES Fine dining, elegant Afternoon Tea and experiential stays ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM/GIFTS
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FOODIES WINE GUIDE WORDS DIANA THOMPSON OF WINE EVENTS SCOTLAND
THE MORE
the merrier
We had so much fun in the Drinks Theatre at Foodies Festival Christmas, and following the reactions when presenting these wines I couldn’t resist including them here. If you’re in need of further inspiration, please have a look at the Edinburgh Uncorked Facebook Group, and if you enjoy these wines then post a photo of them and mention Foodies magazine.
own or with white meats, seafood or lighter dishes, it’s also got the flavour to stand up to the turkey.
Cune Rioja Crianza 2016 £9 - Asda, Morrisons, Majestic
Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV France £8.29 - Lidl You’re going to have to be super quick if you’d like to get your hands on this cracking Crémant – especially since all those at Foodies Christmas may well have snapped it up already. Part of Lidl’s Christmas Wine Tour range this is one that, “when it’s gone, it’s gone”. Produced by the traditional bottle-fermented method and comprising a range of grape varieties in order to deliver on flavour and elegance, including the popular Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this is exceptional value.
Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Grigio 2018 New Zealand £10.99 - Waitrose, Asda Villa Maria’s Sauvignon Blanc is one many of us are familiar with, but perhaps more suitable for a summer’s day. Pinot Grigio is the same grape as Pinot Gris, and in New Zealand, Villa Maria packs it full of flavour without forgetting the elegance. A delicious wine both on its foodies.co.uk
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FIRST CHANCE TO TRY www.iciacca.com A Scottish-Italian family from East Lothian is importing Maturano wine into the UK for the first time. As an ideal match for the Christmas feast, I Ciacca Nostalgia is now available to purchase from Edinburgh’s Valvona & Crolla and the St Andrews Wine Company. Nostalgia is a lively, golden-coloured and medium bodied dry white with notes of orange blossom and grapefruit, as well as an interesting minerality.
A stunning Rioja from the much loved CVNE stable. Bursting with luscious red fruit with a lingering finish, Cune Crianza would be great with almost all festive dishes and it’ll definitely match turkey well. At the time of writing several of these retailers were offering some great deals so have a look out for them. Also do try some of the other Cune wines – there are plenty of them.
Desire Lush & Zin 2018 £9.99 - Majestic Almost everyone’s hand shot up when I asked at Foodies Christmas who would buy this. Coming from Puglia in the south of Italy this wine is produced by the Pasquera family, who are more well known for their Amarone wines from Veneto in the north. As expected, this has plenty of delicious rich, ripe fruit characters. Initially part of Majestic’s limited-edition range, Desire Lush & Zin flew out of the stores so fast that it’s become a permanent feature. foodies 59
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CH RI S TM A S AT M AC D ON A LD INCHYRA HOTE L & SPA
Christmas at Inchyra
With the warmest welcome, wonderful celebrations, lavish lunches, a pantomime and decadent spa, this festive season is set to be our best yet. HOGMANAY CELEBRATIONS from ÂŁ70 per adult
A relaxed family gathering or a black tie gala ball, we have Hogmanay celebrations to suit the whole family.
PARTY NIGHTS
from ÂŁ22 per person The ultimate party retreat, embody the glamour of Christmas at Macdonald Inchyra Hotel & Spa.
Booking is easy. Call 0344 879 9044 or email specialevents.inchyra@macdonald-hotels.co.uk www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/Inchyra
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COCKTAILS FOODIES
Naughty & nice Impress your guests with sweet and spicy cocktails from the team at the Epicurean in the Radisson Collection, Edinburgh
Tita
25ml Blackwood’s Nordic vodka 12.5ml Mozart chocolate liqueur 12.5ml Crème de Cacao White 12.5ml Kahlua 50ml double cream 12.5ml gomme syrup ● Shake all ingredients in a shaker
with ice, strain and pour into a champagne coupe. ● Garnish with a dusting of cocoa powder.
Picantito Picante means spicy and “ito” is a term of endearment in Spanish that is added to a name to show smallness, so this is basically called Little Spicy!
12.5ml gomme syrup 12.5ml canton ginger liquor 1 dash Tabasco ● Shake all ingredients in a
shaker with ice. ● Pour into a glass over ice,
25ml Mezcal 25 ml Blackwood’s Nordic Vodka 25ml lime juice 12.5ml lemon shrub foodies.co.uk
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top up with ginger beer, garnish with cinnamon stick and blackberry with a sprinkle of edible glitter for a festive sparkle! foodies 61
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FOODIES COCKTAILS HEADER
Sparkling New Year Cocktail experts Bompas & Parr set your Hogmanay celebrations off with a fizz with their sophisticated libations
Rose fizz This was developed by us as part of a signature range for David Beckham’s Haig Club whisky 1 white sugar cube 2 drops rose water 30 ml Haig Club Single Grain Scotch whisky 60 ml brut Champagne ● Build in a Champagne flute as if for a classic
From The Bompas & Parr Cocktail Book, Pavilion Books, £9.99
Sidecar
The sidecar is really just a brandy sour in which the sugar syrup is replaced by orange liqueur. We’ve suggested a ratio that we like, but you could go for equal parts (the usual method) Lemon juice and caster sugar for the glass rim 50 ml Rémy Martin VSOP cognac 30 ml orange liqueur 62 foodies
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Champagne cocktail. First drop in the sugar cube, then soak it with 2 drops of rose water. ● Next add the whisky, then top with champagne.
(Cointreau or Grand Marnier) 30 ml lemon juice 5 ml sugar syrup Twist of orange zest to garnish ● First, moisten the outside rim
of a martini or cocktail glass with lemon juice, then roll it in caster sugar. ● Shake all the ingredients with ice cubes. ● Strain into the glass and garnish with orange zest. foodies.co.uk
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MADE TASTY BY OUR FORESTS & COASTLINE
QUICKER THAN SEX ON THE BEACH
10 DIST 0% WITH ILLED PINEAFRESH PPLES & ORA NGES
LED TIL R DISTH OUWN I W RY O T VE HEA T W IRI SP
DISCOVER OUR SMOOTH, VIBRANT & AWARD WINNING GIN
MAKE AMAZING TASTING COCKTAILS STRAIGHT OFF THE SHELF
Made with local Noble Fir, Bladderwrack seaweed and our own wheat spirit. Juniper led with hints of tropical fruit, citrus and the subtle scent of the shore, make this a smooth & vibrant gin. Serve with ice, simple tonic and slice of fresh mango.
Literally a wheelbarrow load of fresh pineapples and oranges goes into every batch. It’s then smoked, torched, macerated, pressed and distilled with Hills & Harbour Gin to create a complex cocktail. Try it neat, with a mixer or simply shake and strain.
CRAFTY DISTILLERY, NAMED THE ‘SCOTTISH GIN DESTINATION OF THE YEAR’ IS ON A MISSION TO CREATE TASTY HONEST CRAFT SPIRITS FOR EVERYONE WHO LIKES A TIPPLE. CRAFTY DISTILLERY, GALLOWAY, SCOTLAND I WWW.CRAFTYDISTILLERY.COM p_53.indd 63
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TRIED & TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
Foodies
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...
Galloway Forager 50ml Hills & Harbour Gin 25ml grapefruit oleo saccharum 25ml elderflower cordial ● Shake with a sprig of noble fir. ● Top with a dash of soda and a fresh slice of grapefruit and a sprig of noble fir.
TOP TIP Supporting your sisters at the Drag Race UK Tour at the Theatre Royal, Glasgow on 6th Dec? Sip a suitably fabulous Blue Hawaiian in the nearby Tiki Bar first.
House of Gods
LAUNCHING THIS MONTH BOWLARAMA
HOUSE OF GODS
Depending on which survey you believe, up to a quarter of today’s 18-24 year-olds don’t drink. With ten-pin bowling lanes, a dance floor and a late night restaurant, Bowlarama offers those Gen Z teetotallers a few alternatives to a night on the sauce. Of course, there is a bar for those still keeping to the boozy old ways. We always find our strike rate peaks at about two pints in. 20 Glassford Street, Glasgow 1UL Tel: 0141 553 1100 bowlarama.co.uk
A new boutique hotel and cocktail bar on the Cowgate, House of Gods promises to bathe guests ‘in the luxury that’s usually reserved for the worshipped’. Cripes! Named after a sexually wanton demon – double cripes! – the Lilith’s Lounge Bar certainly looks very decadent and has a drinks list to match. A number of the cocktails have been inspired by acts of rock ‘n’ roll debauchery. Make ours a Siam Sleeper, created in honour of a wild, three week-long party that Billy Idol threw in the penthouse of Thailand’s Oriental Hotel, running up a quarter of a million dollar bill. 233 Cowgate, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 230 0445 houseofgodshotel.com
Bowlarama
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THE PRANCING STAG Sometimes, you don’t need gimmicks. At The Prancing Stag, the kitchen team like to use fresh local produce to create modern Scottish dishes. Independent and family-run, this new restaurant serves main courses such as roast saddle of Highland venison, pumpkin ravioli and a casserole of seafood packed with monkfish, salmon, king prawns and mussels. 1A Ashwood Gardens, 512 Crow Road, Glasgow, Tel: 0141 959 9666 theprancingstag.co.uk foodies.co.uk
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OUT AND ABOUT FOODIES
Out & about Looking to feature? Contact press@foodiesfestival.com
FOODIES FESTIVAL EDINBURGH welcomed MasterChef 2019 winner Irini Tzortzoglou and her fellow finalist Jilly McCord to the stage
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FOODIES FOCUS OUT AND ABOUT
ALAIN ROUX spent time chatting with Edinburgh influencers, including Foodies editor Sue Hitchen, at Brasserie Prince in The Balmoral
MACDONALD HOLYROOD HOTEL SURF & TURF LAUNCH saw guests trying the new menu
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