FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 115 NOVEMBER 2019 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
30
IkeN W to VIP tic ts
estival Foodies F h Edinburg
SHOPPING SPREE Luxury city breaks with a difference
DISHOOM A food tour of Bombay
PLUS
Our guide to whisky bars
NOVEMBER ISSUE 2019 ISSUE 115
GORDON RAMSAY
Go for a bramble...
The fast and the fabulous GOURMET GIFTS
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MARY BERRY Feast for the senses
GREAT TASTE AWARDS
REVIEWS 24/10/2019 13:15
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FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
✺
✶
ISSUE 115 NOVEMBER 2019 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
30
WIN
to VIP tickets val Foodies Festi Edinburgh
SHOPPING SPREE Luxury city breaks with a difference
DISHOOM A food tour of Bombay
PLUS
Our guide to whisky bars
NOVEMBER ISSUE 2019 ISSUE 115
GORDON RAMSAY
Go for a bramble...
The fast and the fabulous GOURMET GIFTS
MARY BERRY Feast for the senses
GREAT TASTE AWARDS
001_Cover Spine_1119.indd 12
REVIEWS 24/10/2019 13:15
Front cover image From Good Housekeeping Express, HarperCollins, £18.99.
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WELCOME
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Festive spirit P ARTY SEASON IS rapidly approaching, and with it comes the annual celebration of Foodies Festival Christmas, taking place in the EICC on the 22, 23, 24 November. This year we welcome MasterChef 2019 winner Irini Tzortzoglou alongside finalist Jilly McCord, as well as Great British Menu 2019 winner Lorna McNee and a whole host of top local chefs. With all the masterclasses, festive workshops and artisan producers you could ask for, it’s sure to be another brilliant weekend. Read all about it on page 6. Mary Berry is also planning ahead for a house full of guests, and her recipes to feed a crowd will keep everybody full and happy. Try her Highland game pie – a true feast. Meanwhile, Gordon Ramsay is thinking quick and delicious, as he tries to encourage the nation to close their takeaway apps and cook something yummy in the time it would take to get their order delivered. This is also the time of year when
thoughts turn to a winter escape, whether that be a luxury Scottish break or travelling to more exotic climes. The founder of Dishoom, Shamil Thakrar, takes us on a very personal tour of Bombay, while closer to home we visit Kinloch Lodge on the Isle of Skye for a weekend of foraging and delicious indulgence. And if you’re planning a trip to Glasgow or Edinburgh’s Christmas markets, we’ve got you covered there, too. Turn to page 45 for more. If you’re still hungry, we’ve been checking out some of Scotland’s Great Taste Award winners as well as gourmet gifts for the foodie in your life, and we interviewed chef Glynn Purnell about his childhood food inspirations. Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’ll find lots of tasty treats inside. Sue Hitchen, Editor
‘Mary Berry’s game pie is a true feast’
✺ CONTRIBUTORS Gordon Ramsay is a chef, restaurateur and TV personality Mary Berry is one of the nation’s bestloved TV cooks, presenters and authors
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✶ MasterChef’s Jilly McCord & Irini Tzortzoglou
foodies 3
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FESTIVE GIF T EXPERIENCES Fine dining, elegant Afternoon Tea and experiential stays ROCCOFORTEHOTELS.COM/GIFTS
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CONTENTS
9
This month FOODIES FESTIVAL CHRISTMAS 6 SHOPPING 9 NEWS 11 COMPETITION 13 Win VIP tickets to Foodies Festival Christmas in Edinburgh, 22–24 Nov
14
MARY BERRY 14 Easy, comforting recipes to feed a crowd of hungry friends GORDON RAMSAY 22 The fiery chef is determined to cut out the carry-out GREAT TASTE AWARDS This year’s Scottish stars
31
DISHOOM 34 A nostalgic trip to Bombay’s cafés GOURMET GIFTS 43 Start your Christmas shopping now LUXURY CITY BREAKS Head to the Christmas markets
22
CHEF Q&A 49 Glynn Purnell’s secret first recipe WHISKY BARS Where to sip the amber nectar
31
45
51
COVER RECIPE 55 TRAVEL 56 Kinloch Lodge on the Isle of Skye HEALTH & BEAUTY 59 Get your skin in shape for Christmas RESTAURANT REVIEWS COCKTAILS
43
34
WINE GUIDE NEW BARS OUT & ABOUT
60 61 63 64 65 foodies 5
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FOODIES FESTIVAL
DECK THE HALLS
at Foodies Festival
With three days of chef demonstrations, festive workshops, food and drink masterclasses and unusual gift ideas, Foodies Christmas returns to the EICC, 22, 23, 24 November
I
T'S SEASON'S feastings as Edinburgh’s favourite food festival, Foodies Christmas, hits the city for another bumper year. On the 22nd, 23rd and 24th November the EICC will become a magical wonderland dedicated to the love of food and drink. Great British Menu 2019 winner Lorna McNee headlines the Chefs Theatre along with MasterChef winner Irini Tzortzoglou and fellow finalist Jilly McCord. They'll be joined by top local chefs including Phil Hickman from Brasserie Prince, Daniel Ashmore of The Pompadour, Cafe St Honore's Neil Forbes and many more, all sharing their ultimate Christmas recipes. Join masterclasses with Charles Metcalfe and Foodies wine expert Diana Thompson to discover your new favourite fizz, whether that be Champagne, crémant or cava.
Learn how to pair it with inventive canapés or add it to a Christmas cocktail – the party season is all about indulgence, after all. Festive workshops will teach you how to make gorgeous, scented garlands and wreaths, accompanied by choirs and brass bands playing throughout the weekend. It's also a great opportunity to get a head start on your Christmas shopping. Browse the artisan producers market and find the perfect present for the foodie in your life, whether that's an unusual gin, small-batch whisky or award-winning chocolates. So come in from the cold and find your merry place at Foodies Festival Christmas. You're sure to have a jingle ball!
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22-24 NOV EICC
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THE FINEST FOOD AND DRINK FRESH FROM SCOTLAND’S NATURAL LARDER
LUXURY CHRISTMAS HAMPERS Send the very best in Scottish food and drink to friends and family this Christmas with our exclusive selection of luxury hampers. They are guaranteed to be appreciated by anyone who enjoys the finer things in life. For our full range of hampers and gift boxes see online or please call the number below for your bespoke traditional wicker hamper. The House of Bruar by Blair Atholl, Perthshire, PH18 5TW Telephone: 01796 483 236 Email: hampers@houseofbruar.com
WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM/FOOD-HALL
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SHOPPING FOODIES
Bauble wreath diy.com, £6 Christmas aprons oflifeandlemons.co.uk, £15
Sleepy Deer stocking bobbyrabbit.co.uk, £25
Big Hug matches annabeljames.co.uk, £6
Gin candle, baylisand harding.com, £15
Winter Berries diffuser annabeljames.co.uk, £15
MERRY & BRIGHT
Get your home ready for the party season with fun accessories
Merry tankard mug kitchencraft.co.uk, £6
Personalised box treatrepublic.com, £30
Fluidink coaster set etsy.com, £11 Mince Pies cushion artylicious.co.uk, £22
Set of six mini cookie cutters tch.net, £9
Food & Drink Quiz game wildandwolf.co.uk, £9
foodies.co.uk
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NEWS FOODIES FESTIVAL
23, 24, 25 NOVEMBER 2018 EDINBURGH EICC
michel roux
Edinburgh was set aflutter last month when Michel Roux visited his restaurant, Brasserie Prince at The Balmoral. His chef Phil Hickman is appearing at Foodies Christmas, and Number One retained its Michelin Star. roccofortehotels.com
Sparkle and shine
From Bucks Fizz with stockings in the morning to pre-dinner champers, from a white Burgundy with the turkey to a glass of port amidst the lit candles of the evening, your Christmas wine options have never been wider – or more inspired. Let Foodies wine expert Diana Thompson and Charles Metcalfe guide you through their festive selections at Foodies Christmas.
Gins all round
Port of Leith’s Lind & Lime was a finalist in the London Dry category of this year’s Scottish Gin Awards and won the Excellence in Branding award, making it the perfect, stylish gift. Taste it at Foodies Christmas. leithdistillery.com
MasterChef Masterclass Granny knows best
She may be a young mum, but Amy Lorimer knows the value of traditional recipes, and her blog, Baking with Granny, recently won a BIB Award. To celebrate, she’ll be returning to this year’s Foodies Christmas for another delicious Masterclass. bakingwithgranny.co.uk foodies.co.uk
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It’s a festive showdown as MasterChef 2019 winner Irini Tzortzoglou and finalist Jilly McCord each take to the stage in the Chefs Theatre. Irini might be the TV champion, but will Jilly’s recipe be the favourite with Foodies festival-goers?
ES FOODI L A FESTIV OV N 22-24 C @ EIC foodies 11
24/10/2019 12:35
CH RI S TM A S AT M AC D ON A LD INCHYRA HOTE L & SPA
Christmas at Inchyra
With the warmest welcome, wonderful celebrations, lavish lunches, a pantomime and decadent spa, this festive season is set to be our best yet. HOGMANAY CELEBRATIONS from ÂŁ70 per adult
A relaxed family gathering or a black tie gala ball, we have Hogmanay celebrations to suit the whole family.
PARTY NIGHTS
from ÂŁ22 per person The ultimate party retreat, embody the glamour of Christmas at Macdonald Inchyra Hotel & Spa.
Booking is easy. Call 0344 879 9044 or email specialevents.inchyra@macdonald-hotels.co.uk www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/Inchyra
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WIN
✺
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Win VIP tickets to
with top chefs
edinburgh eicc 22-24 November
E
veryone’s favourite time of year is rolling back around, so be sure to kickstart your festive celebrations at Foodies Festival Christmas at the EICC on the 22, 23 & 24 November. MasterChef 2019 winner Irini Tzortzoglou heads up the Chefs Theatre with her fellow finalist Jilly McCord. They’ll be joined by top Scottish chefs including Phil Hickman of Brasserie Prince at The Balmoral and Lorna McNee of two-Michelin-starrred Restaurant Andrew Fairlie and Great British Menu,
TO ENTER All of this got you feeling festive? Luckily for you, we’re giving away 4 pairs of VIP tickets plus 10 pairs of weekend passes for runners-up. To win, enter at foodies.co.uk
all cooking up their favourite Christmas recipes. VIP ticket holders get priority tickets for all sessions. If you’re looking to get into the Christmas spirit, get stuck into a festive masterclass or take a stroll through the artisan producers market to start stocking up on foodie gifts. Or, if you’re looking to toast to the occasion, enjoy Champagne and wine tastings in the Drinks Theatre or pick up a few bottles to take home.
T&C: Entries must be received by 20/11/19. Prize is valid for 4 x pairs of VIP tickets. 10 runners up will win a pair of weekend passes each. Valid at Foodies Festival Edinburgh, 22, 23, 24 November at the EICC. Prize is subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. No cash alternative. Non-transferrable. Editor’s choice is final. foodies.co.uk
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MasterChef winner Irini
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
Heart
BAKER
TV legend Mary Berry shares her favourite tips and tricks to make cooking for a crowd a breeze
I
f there’s one reader request that’s kept on coming, it’s recipes to serve numbers, for anything from a family get-together in the kitchen to a full-on feast. It’s an area my writing partner, Lucy Young, and I feel very qualified to write on – in our personal lives as well as our professional lives, there’s nothing we like so much as cooking for family, friends and neighbours – no matter the number. At the same time, we’re well aware of the worries that many of you have about cooking for more than six. “What can I make for so many people?” “How can I keep the food hot and will there be enough?” – these are the sorts of questions we’re asked, and I hope we’ve answered them. Once you’ve chosen your menu, check you have all the pots, pans and dishes you’ll need. If you don’t have absolutely everything, don’t worry – there are often ways around it. The majority of recipes for 12 can be cooked in two standard-sized dishes for six rather than a single huge one. If you don’t have a second dish, see if you can borrow one from a friend or buy a foil dish. The cooking times for two dishes should be the same as one large dish,
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but keep an eye on the food towards the end of cooking – the important thing is that it’s cooked right through in the middle. Foil dishes are not as sturdy as porcelain cookware, so always sit them on a baking sheet, particularly when taking them in and out of the oven, and take care not to puncture them. Because they are made of metal, cooking times are slightly less. Again, check towards the end of cooking to see if the food is done. Take a look around your kitchen to see if there are any pieces of equipment you can improvise with. A roasting tin, for example, can stand in as an ovenproof dish, and we find no end of uses for our preserving pan. To check the capacity of a dish, fill it with water from a measuring jug. Slightly too big is better than slightly too small – for obvious reasons. Serving food to large numbers might seem daunting, but there are many ways of simplifying the task. When serving pies and lasagnes, we often lightly mark portion sizes on the surface with a knife so guests (or you) know where to cut. This works well with whole fish too. foodies.co.uk
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PHOTO: GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH
‘There’s nothing we like so much as cooking for family and friends’
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
Loch Fyne haddock bake Named after the area of Scotland famous for its fish and seafood, this pie is quick to make. It’s unusual in that the potatoes are in the bake and not mashed on top. Make sure you buy undyed smoked haddock – the dyed fillets are bright yellow and very unnatural looking. PREPARE AHEAD The bake can be made up to the end of step 4 up to 8 hours ahead. Not suitable for freezing. Serves 12 750g King Edward potatoes or other floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1kg baby spinach 2 tbsp olive oil 500g small chestnut mushrooms, sliced in half Knob of butter, to grease 6 eggs, hardboiled, peeled, and sliced into quarters 1kg undyed smoked haddock, skinned and cut into 5cm pieces 600ml double cream 4 tsp grainy mustard 175g mature Cheddar cheese, grated
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Preheat the oven to 200°C. Meanwhile, put the potatoes into a pan of cold salted water, cover with a lid, bring to the boil, and cook for 10–15 minutes or until just cooked. Drain well and set aside. Heat a large frying pan, add the spinach, and cook for a few minutes or until just wilted but still holding its shape. Drain well in a colander, squeezing to remove excess liquid, then set aside. You may need to do this in batches. Heat the oil in the frying pan, add the mushrooms, and fry for 3 minutes or until just cooked.
Grease two 2-litre or one 4-litre shallow, wide-based ovenproof dish with the butter, then arrange the potatoes, spinach, and mushrooms in the base. Scatter over the eggs and haddock and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix the cream and mustard in a bowl with some salt and freshly ground black pepper, then pour over the fish mixture, and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake for 20–25 minutes (30–35 minutes for two dishes for 12 or 40–45 minutes for one dish for 12) or until golden on top and cooked through.
foodies.co.uk
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Squeeze the spinach in batches to get all the water out
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
Highland game pie Full of flavour and perfect for feeding a crowd for that special occasion. You can easily buy game casserole meat from supermarkets, which comes diced and is perfect for this recipe. PREPARE AHEAD The casserole can be made up to 2 days ahead. The assembled pie can be made up to 12 hours ahead. Freezes well uncooked with the pastry lid for up to 1 month. Defrost before cooking. Serves 10 2 tbsp olive oil 1.4kg game meat, such as pheasant, guinea fowl, partridge, or venison, cut into 4cm cubes Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 large onions, chopped 60g plain flour 300ml red wine 1.2 litres chicken or game stock 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce A little gravy browning, optional 10 pickled walnuts from a jar, quartered
Preheat the oven to 160°C. Heat the oil in a large deep casserole dish or sauté pan. Season the game meat with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Fry in the hot oil until brown all over, stirring over a high heat. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onions to the pan and fry for a few minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and cook for 30 seconds. Gradually add the red wine and stock, then bring to the boil while stirring until smooth. Add the Worcestershire sauce and gravy browning, if using, and check the seasoning. Boil for few minutes, then add the meat and stir. Cover and transfer to the oven for about 2 hours or until the meat is tender. Stir in the walnuts and tip the mixture into a 1.7 litre ovenproof pie dish with a wide base, about 23 x 33cm. Leave to cool before adding the pastry. Increase the oven to 200°C.
To make the pastry, measure the flour, suet, and salt into a bowl, and mix with your hand. Gradually add the water and mix with a fork or knife to combine. Bring together on a board and knead for 1 minute into a ball (there is no need to knead it like other pastries). Roll out the pastry to the size of the dish. Brush the rim of the dish with beaten egg. Lay the pastry on top, press the edge of the pastry against the side of the dish firmly, and brush with beaten egg. Using a sharp knife, make a hole in the centre of the pastry. Bake in preheated oven for about 35 minutes or until golden brown and bubbling. Serve piping hot with vegetables.
For the suet pastry 200g self-raising flour 100g shredded suet ½ tsp salt About 150ml water 1 egg, beaten
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Pickled walnuts add extra texture and flavour to the pie
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FOODIES MARY BERRY
These individual crumbles are scrumptious and so easy to make. Y ou could equally make one large crumble – use a 1.2 litre ovenproof dish for six or a 2.4 litre dish for 12, and bake for 30 minutes (45 minutes for 12). Serve with cream, crème fraîche, or warm custard.
Mini apple, apricot and hazelnut crumbles PREPARE AHEAD The crumbles can be made up to 2 days ahead. Freeze for up to 1 month. Serves 12 1.8kg Bramley apples, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes 350g ready-to-eat dried apricots, snipped into small pieces 200ml apple juice 200g Demerara sugar 200g plain flour 100g cold butter, cubed 50g hazelnuts, chopped 20 foodies
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Preheat the oven to 200°C. Put the apples, apricots, apple juice, and all but 1 heaped tablespoon (3 level tablespoons for 12) of the demerara sugar into a saucepan. Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, and simmer for 5–7 minutes or until the apples are just soft. Remove from the heat and divide among the ramekins. Put the flour and butter into a mixing bowl. Using the tips of your fingers, rub the cold butter into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the remaining sugar and the hazelnuts and mix together. Sprinkle the crumble topping over the apples in the ramekins, then
place on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes or until the crumble is light golden brown and the fruit is bubbling around the edges.
The new edition of Mary Berry Cooks up a Feast by Mary Berry and Lucy Young is published by DK (3 October 2019, £25) DK.com. foodies.co.uk
24/10/2019 10:01
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FOODIES GORDON RAMSAY
The need for
SPEED
In the time it takes you to order a takeaway you could be eating delicious, home-cooked food, says Gordon Ramsay
S
peed is a vital ingredient in restaurant kitchens: it is essential to get the food out quickly, or people just won’t come back. Although things are less pressurised at home, there is a lot to learn from professional chefs when it comes to getting great food on to the table quickly. Personally, I never cut corners when it comes to flavour, but there are many tricks that I’ve learnt over the years for saving time while cooking. I know that modern life is busy and tiring, and that it’s getting easier and easier to order a takeaway or have ready meals delivered to your home. But where’s the satisfaction and pride in opening the door to a man in leathers and a helmet? And where’s the pleasure and sense of achievement in pricking the cellophane of a ready meal before sticking it in the microwave? Cooking from scratch is better for you, much less expensive and so much more satisfying than buying dinner in. And it needn’t take long to produce incredible food for yourself and your family. In fact, by the time your takeaway has made it from the restaurant to your house, you could have made any of
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these knockout dishes and be tucking into properly great food. Producing quality meals in half an hour can be a challenge. The time constraint rules out many of the techniques that chefs rely on to bring depth of flavour and complexity to a dish – marinating, braising, roasting and slow-cooking, for example. But there are ways around this if you know how: choose the right ingredients, marry them with the right combination of spices and sauces, use the right cooking method and you can produce incredibly tasty meals that tick all the boxes. Quick food doesn’t mean bland and one-dimensional, especially when you bring in an arsenal of aromatic spices and condiments from across the globe. In fact, being short of time forces you to be more creative in the kitchen, not less. When I’m at home, I don’t want to spend hours cooking, but using bold flavours and some clever labour-saving cheats, I know I can produce top-quality food in under thirty minutes. And by being well prepared, choosy about your ingredients and more efficient in the kitchen, you will be able to produce incredible food in no time at all. Shouldn’t you be cooking already? foodies.co.uk
24/10/2019 10:03
PHOTO: LOUISE HAGGER foodies.co.uk
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‘Being short on time forces you to be more creative in the kitchen’ foodies 23
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FOODIES GORDON RAMSAY
Cauliflower soup with brown butter and cheesy toasts Making brown butter, or beurre noisette, is one of those techniques that chefs love but home cooks seem to steer clear of because it sounds tricky. Believe me, it’s really not complicated, and the more often you do it, the more confident you become at judging the right time to take the pan off the heat. It’s such an easy way to add a rich nuttiness to this creamy soup, and it smells incredible. Serves 4 2 tbsp olive oil 20g butter 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced Small handful of sage leaves 1 x 800g cauliflower 500ml chicken or vegetable stock 200ml whole milk 200ml double cream Sea salt and freshly ground pepper For the brown butter 40g butter 1 tbsp truffle oil Handful of sage leaves For the cheesy toasts 4 slices of baguette, finely sliced on the diagonal 120g grated cheese mixture (mozzarella, Cheddar, blue and Gruyère, or a combination of whatever you have in the fridge)
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Preheat the grill. Place a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and cook for 5 minutes. Add the sage leaves and cook for a further minute. Meanwhile, prepare the cauliflower by removing the leaves and separating the florets. Roughly chop them into small pieces of the same size. Add the chopped cauliflower and the stock to the pan. Season with salt and pepper, bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the milk and cream, and simmer for a further 8 minutes. Meanwhile, make the brown butter. Put the butter into a small saucepan and place it over a high heat. When it begins to brown, remove the pan from the heat and add the truffle oil and sage leaves. Stir well and leave to cool.
Now make the toasts. Lay the baguette slices on a baking tray and grill for 2–3 minutes, or until lightly golden on one side. Turn each slice over, then sprinkle liberally with the grated cheese. Replace under the grill for a further 4 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and golden. When the cauliflower is cooked, blend the mixture with a stick blender until smooth. Check the seasoning and adjust as necessary. Ladle the soup into bowls and spoon over the brown butter and sage leaves. Serve with the cheesy toasts on the side.
TIME-SAVING TIP
If you warm the stock in a saucepan over a medium heat while you prep the onions, garlic and cauliflower, it will come to the boil quicker when you add it to the soup pan, therefore speeding up the whole process. foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES GORDON RAMSAY
Moroccan chicken traybake Using a spice mix like ras-el-hanout is a great kitchen shortcut – just sprinkle it over the vegetables and chicken in this easy traybake and you will be instantly transported to the souks of Morocco or Tunis without any effort at all. However, keep an eye on the sell-by date of ground spices – after a year or two they lose their potency, so don’t let them languish in the back of your cupboard for more than a decade and then expect them to taste of anything. Serves 4 200g baby carrots 2 red onions, peeled and each cut into 8 slices 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp ras-el-hanout 200ml chicken stock 150g couscous 4 chicken breasts, skin on 2 courgettes 1 x 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 50ml water 4 tbsp chopped coriander Lemon juice, to taste 30g pistachios, roughly chopped Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Rose petals, to serve (optional)
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Wash the baby carrots, cutting any larger ones in half lengthways. Place in a large roasting tray with the onions. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and sprinkle over 1 tablespoon of ras-el-hanout until evenly coated. Place in the oven for 10 minutes. Pour the chicken stock into a small pan, place over a medium-high heat and bring to the boil. Put the couscous into a bowl with a little salt and pepper. Pour the hot stock over it, cover with cling film and set aside to absorb the liquid. Score the chicken skin with a sharp knife, then season with salt and pepper and sprinkle over ½ tablespoon ras-el-hanout.
Cut each courgette into quarters lengthways and sprinkle with the remaining ½ tablespoon ras-elhanout. Remove the tray from the oven and add the courgettes and chickpeas. Place the chicken breasts on top and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Add the water to the bottom of the pan and return to the oven on a high shelf for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, uncover the couscous and fluff it up with a fork. Stir in the coriander, then add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Remove the roasting tray from the oven and sprinkle with pistachios and rose petals (if using). Bring to the table and serve straight from the pan.
TIME-SAVING TIP
Cutting larger ingredients into smaller pieces will speed up cooking time and won’t change the flavour
From Gordon Ramsay Quick and Delicious, Hodder & Stoughton, £25. Photography Louise Hagger 26 foodies
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24/10/2019 10:07
Moroccan flavours are unexpected in this simple dish foodies.co.uk
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GORDON RAMSAY FOODIES
Calvados toffee apple pancakes Serves 4 30g pecan nuts 350g green apples 100g butter 50ml Calvados ½ tsp vanilla paste 80g dark muscovado sugar 100ml double cream Vanilla ice cream, to serve For the pancake batter 150g plain flour 1½ tsp baking powder 2 tbsp caster sugar 1 large egg 150ml whole milk 30g butter, melted Pinch of salt foodies.co.uk
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Preheat the oven to 200°C. Put the pecans in a baking tray and place in the oven for 5 minutes, or until well toasted. Allow to cool a little, then roughly chop and set aside. To make the pancake batter, put the flour, baking powder and caster sugar into a bowl. Make a well in the centre, then add the egg, milk, melted butter and salt and whisk together until smooth. Set aside until needed. Peel and core the apples, then cut them into thick slices. Place a non-stick frying pan over a high heat and add 50g of the butter. When melted, add the apples and cook until they begin to brown. Pour in the Calvados and carefully flambé it in the pan. When the flames die down, add the vanilla paste and muscovado sugar and
mix well. Pour in the cream, stir well, then remove from the heat. Place two non-stick frying pans over a medium–high heat and rub with a little of the remaining butter. Add 2 or 3 large spoonfuls of the batter to the pans, depending on size, and cook for a minute or so on each side, until lightly browned. Transfer to a baking tray and keep warm while you make the rest of the pancakes (there should be 12–16 in total). Put the apples back over a high heat and cook until the caramel sauce thickens. Serve the pancakes in stacks of 3 or 4 on each plate. Top with apples and smother in caramel sauce. Sprinkle with the toasted pecans and serve with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side. foodies 29
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Tours – Tastings – Shop www.deernessdistillery.com 01856 741264
Commence your sensory journey!
THE FINEST SMOKED AT L A N T I C S A L M O N FROM THE ISLE OF LEWIS UIGLODGE.CO.UK T. 0 18 51 6 7 2 3 9 6
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GREAT TASTE AWARD WINNERS FOODIES FOCUS
BONNIE GLEN TABLET AND FUDGE Giffnock producers scooped awards for their Butter Tablet and Vanilla Fudge Prices vary, aldomak.co.uk PERFECT WITH A CUP OF COFFEE
INTO THE WILD VODKA Deerness Distillery make their hand-distilled, small-batch vodka by traditional methods on Orkney From £13, deernessdistillery.com
LOCH FYNE OYSTERS A three-star award winner, Loch Fyne’s live rock oysters come boxed and make an unusual dinner party gift £6, lochfyne.com
Tasting great Top treats from Scottish Great Taste Award winners CHEESE SABLÉS Pea Green Boat’s range picked up three awards, including three stars for their Fennel & Chilli £3.25, shortbreadhouse.co.uk
GIN BOTHY LIQUEURS AND GINS The Angus company’s infused gins are made with Scottish botanicals including pine needles, heather and milk thistle From £26, ginbothy.co.uk GUNSHOT IS AN IDEAL AUTUMN CHOICE
DOUBLE DAIRY GOLD ICE CREAM Three stars for Rizza’s premium vanilla. The company has been manufacturing in the North East since 1914 Prices vary, rizza.co.uk foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES FOCUS GREAT TASTE AWARD WINNERS
MACKIES TRADITIONAL DAIRY ICE CREAM Made with whole milk and cream, and without added flavours such as vanilla, Mackies first ice cream remains a firm favourite Prices vary, mackies.co.uk DON’T FORGET THE OATCAKES
UIG LODGE SMOKED SALMON The Isle of Lewis is home to Uig Lodge’s smokehouse, and their hand-smoked side of salmon will feed up to 15 guests. £65, uiglodge.co.uk
REDCASTLE SPICED RUM Taking inspiration from smugglers of the past, Redcastle Gin created their own distilled rum blended with Jamaican rum. From £5, redcastlegin.co.uk
ST ANDREWS CHEDDAR The farmhouse cheddar-style was a three-star award winner for St Andrews Cheese in Pittenweem Prices vary, standrewscheese.co.uk
THREE STAR AWARD WINNER
BO’TREE SALTED PEPPER BERRIES Michel Roux Jr is a fan of this combo of green Kampot peppercorns and Fleur de Sel £15, botree farm.co.uk 32 foodies
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BRAE’S O’ GOWRIE APPLE JUICE Perthshire producers Cairn O’Mohr pick, press and bottle local apples into a sweet and refreshing juice £3.50, cairnomohr.com LOOK OUT FOR THEIR PISTACHIO BISCOTTI ERRICHEL MARMALADE This orange, passion fruit and thyme marmalade from Errichel House was the toast of the awards, winning three stars £4, errichelhouse andrestaurant.co.uk foodies.co.uk
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Getting into the festive spirit Have you heard? We’re turning water into gin! Scotland’s newest and largest residential gin school is now open at Peebles Hydro! Looking for a present for the gin to your tonic this Christmas? Buy one of our gin experiences or vouchers!
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FOODIES DISHOOM
MIX Shamil Thakrar shares his memories of café life in Bombay, which inspired him, along with his cousin Kavi, to set up the first restaurant in the Dishoom chain
A
For me, the Irani cafés are a significant part of Bombay’s seduction. Once liberally sprinkled across the city, only twenty-five or so remain, all of them old, comfortable and worn. All who know them well seem to harbour treasured memories of them – as places for bunking off school, or debating politics and philosophy with the idealistic energy of youth, or for escaping – deeply – into a book, all accompanied by chai. The Irani cafés were lovely places for growing up, and for growing old, whoever you were. Koolar & Co. has a specific importance for me. Not far away is a small ground floor flat in an unremarkable building, where my mother and I spent a few months of my very early life. My family had been thrown out of our home in Africa, and Bombay was our refuge when we had nowhere else to go. We actually celebrated my first birthday here in Koolar & Co. and apparently we had a little cake. This would certainly be a memory I would lovingly treasure if I had it.
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I often returned to Bombay, and to that little flat. I used to stay with my grandmother (“Baa”), who had an enormous love for the city. Without Baa’s influence, my cousin Kavi (also her grandson) and I literally wouldn’t be doing what we’re doing at Dishoom. We both have distinct memories of being in Bombay with her, at Chowpatty or Crawford Market, or strolling up to Nariman Point at sunset with my grandfather, Dada, who could walk endlessly. Sadly, Baa and Dada are both no more, but a memory that I have and that I treasure lovingly is the wide grin on Baa’s face when she ate a kala khatta gola ice at our pop-up on London’s South Bank back in 2011. “Dishoom” is the word for a sound effect used in an old Hindi movie when a hero lands a convincing punch. If we’re candid, it is an odd choice of name for our restaurants. It was our good fortune that Chef Naved, a normally level-headed man who has been with us since the beginning, threw all caution to the wind and gave us a chance. Thus, Naved’s delicious recipes first filled our restaurants, and now fill our book. foodies.co.uk
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‘All who know Bombay’s Irani cafés harbour treasured memories of them’ foodies.co.uk
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Christ m as EXPRESS LUNCH FROM
£16
Group menu: 3 courses & coffee
£30 NOW
OPEN
ON
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t: 0131 553 5080 shore@fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk 3 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW
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DISHOOM FOODIES
Serves 4 as a starter 500g boneless chicken thighs, with skin For the marinade 30g fresh root ginger 10g garlic (2–3 cloves) 10g green chillies (about 2) 30ml rice vinegar 1 tsp deggi mirch chilli powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 1½ tsp fine sea salt 2 tsp granulated sugar 1 tbsp vegetable oil To grill and serve 25g unsalted butter, melted Lime wedges foodies.co.uk
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Chicken tikka Tikka simply means piece, or chunk – so this is chicken pieces, marinated then grilled. The marinade is based on vinegar, not yoghurt. Cut each chicken thigh into 3 pieces and pat dry with kitchen paper. Place in a large bowl. For the marinade, blitz the ingredients together in a blender or mini food processor to a smooth paste. Spoon the marinade over the chicken pieces and turn them to coat. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for 6–24 hours. Take the marinated chicken out of the fridge 20 minutes before cooking. (If you are using wooden skewers,
soak them now.) Heat the grill to high. Thread the marinated chicken onto skewers, leaving enough space between the pieces for the heat to penetrate. Grill for 12–15 minutes, turning and basting regularly with the melted butter, until deep golden brown with some charring. Check that the chicken pieces are cooked through. Let the cooked chicken rest for 5 minutes before serving, with lime wedges for squeezing. foodies 37
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FOODIES DISHOOM
Prawn moilee This is Naved’s special dish at Dishoom Covent Garden. It’s a light, fragrant and utterly delicious South Indian style curry, packed with juicy prawns and tempered with coconut milk. Although it looks impressive, it is actually very easy to make, so you can serve it either as a weeknight supper or as an indulgent dinner. We serve it with idiyappam, the white, lacy noodle pancakes, also known as stringhoppers. If you can’t get these, it goes just as well with steamed rice. Serves 4 6 green chillies 55ml vegetable oil 2 tsp mustard seeds 30 fresh curry leaves 300g white onions, sliced (a little chunky is good) 15g garlic paste 15g ginger paste 2 tsp fine sea salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1¼ tsp ground turmeric 25g fresh root ginger, cut into matchsticks 400ml coconut milk 250ml coconut cream 24 large prawns 300g medium tomatoes, cut into small bite-sized wedges
Remove and discard the stalks from the chillies, then slice each one into 3 or 4 long strips. Set to one side. Place a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add 40ml of the oil, let it warm for a few seconds, then add the mustard seeds and 20 curry leaves. Let them crackle for a few seconds. Add the onions and sauté lightly for 12–14 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Add the garlic and ginger pastes, salt, black pepper and turmeric and sauté for 3 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the sliced chillies and ginger matchsticks and cook for 3 minutes. Pour in the coconut milk and cream and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
While the curry is simmering, place a small frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Toss in the rest of the curry leaves and fry for 1 minute, until crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside. Add the prawns and tomatoes to the sauce and simmer gently for a further 5–6 minutes, until the prawns are cooked; do not overcook or they will be tough. Serve scattered with the fried curry leaves, with lemon wedges on the side.
To serve Lemon wedges
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Join us for Lunch from £16, À la Carte, or
Christmas Parties 3 course menu plus tea or coffee £35 (additional supplements available) Book now to avoid disappointment Fishers in the City t: 0131 225 5109
58 Thistle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1EN city@fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk
37 Broughton Street, Edinburgh EH1 3JU | 8 Brougham Street, Edinburgh EH3 9JH
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FOODIES DISHOOM
Serves 4 175g okra 4g garlic paste 4g ginger paste ¼ tsp deggi mirch chilli powder Vegetable oil for deepfrying 15g chickpea (gram) flour 10g cornflour ½ tsp “magic” masala (see below) For the “magic” masala 10g fine sea salt 10g amchur (dried mango powder) 4g deggi mirch chilli powder 40 foodies
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Okra fries Mix the “magic” masala ingredients together in a bowl. Store excess in an airtight container or jar in a dark cupboard – it will keep for up to 2 months. Wash the okra under cold water and pat dry completely with kitchen paper. Take off and discard the top of each okra, leaving the tail intact. Slice in half lengthways. Mix together the garlic and ginger pastes, chilli powder and 4 tsp water. Add the okra halves and mix well to ensure they are well coated. Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or other suitable deep, heavy-based pan to 180°C. Mix the two flours together.
Sprinkle over the okra and toss very gently to coat. Fry the okra in the hot oil, in batches if necessary, until golden and crispy, about 4–5 minutes. Drain on kitchen paper, sprinkle with “magic” masala and serve immediately, with your choice of chutney(s).
Dishoom by Shamil Thakrar, Kavi Thakrar and Naved Nasir, Bloomsbury Publishing, £26. Photographer: Haarala Hamilton foodies.co.uk
24/10/2019 10:44
10, Gillespie Place EH10 4HS Edinburgh ph 0131 281 0526 harajukukitchen.co.uk
IF YOU FANCY SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN A TURKEY DINNER............. COME GET YOUR SUSHI FIX! 10% off with this advert until December 31 2019
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Henderson Wines Festive Wine Tasting Event
The Braid Hills Hotel, Braid Road Thursday 21st November 7.00pm - 9.00 pm Tickets ÂŁ10 per head (ÂŁ15/double). More than 60 wines and fizz to taste for the festive season. Special offers and discounts on the night.
Charity Raffle
One lucky ticket holder wines a bottle of Joseph Perrier Champagne!
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PERTHSHIRE FOODIES FOCUS GOURMET GIFTS FOODIES FOCUS
POPCORN SHED popcornshed.com, £17.50 The whole family will be begging to pop open these jars from Popcorn Shed, with flavours including Salted Caramel.
GIN BAUBLES pickeringsgin.com, £25 Deck the tree with six ginfilled baubles, including the Brussels sprout gin that went viral and has divided the nation. It’s not all greens: there’s also Clementine, Cranberry and Figgy Pudding.
1881 GIN 1881distillery.com, from £35 Using the famous private spring at Peebles Hydro, the hotel has launched their own range of gins, as well as distillery tours and a gin school.
CHRISTMAS CRACKERS It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas with these gourmet foodie gifts HIGHLAND HAMPER houseofbruar.com, £100 A treat for family overseas or in the UK, this luxury hamper is choc full of authentic Highland products, including a clootie dumpling.
CHOCOLATE AND LOVE GIFT BOX chocolateand love.com, £16.99 This festive box from the Edinburgh producers contains four bars, including the two-star Great Taste awarded Creamy Dark.
INTRODUCTION TO WHISKY edinburghwhisky academy.com, £120 This short course will teach you all about the amber nectar. foodies.co.uk
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ARTISAN ROAST ETHIOPIA CUP COFFEES artisanroast.co.uk, £17 Known for their amazing coffee, Artisan Roast have sourced rare Ethiopian beans direct from smallholders, providing more money for the growers. foodies 43
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Join us for Lunch from £15, À la Carte, or
Join us for Lunch from £16, À la Carte, or
Christmas Parties
Christmas Parties 3 course menu plus tea or coffee £35 (additional supplements available)
3 course menu plus tea or coffee £35 Book now to avoid disappointment (additional supplements available) Fishers in Leith t: 0844 625 4738
1 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW Book now to avoid disappointment eith@fishersrestaurantgroup.co.u Fishers in Leith
t: 0131 554 5666
1 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW eith@fishersrestaurantgroup.co.u
CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON IN STYLE From a lavish dinner to an intimate get-together, we have the perfect Christmas package for you
Packages from just £29pp Call 0131 220 6666 for more details
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WINTER BREAKS FOODIES FOCUS
To market, to market If you’re hitting one of the Christmas markets in Glasgow or Edinburgh this month, forget the car, indulge in the Glühwein, and stay at a fabulous hotel
EDINBURGH THE BALMORAL roccofortehotels.com The last word in luxury, voted Conde Nast Traveler’s best hotel in Europe, The Balmoral is the hotel other hotels aspire to be. You also couldn’t be closer to the Edinburgh Christmas Market, making it the ideal location for a festive visit. If you’re bringing the kids, the Winter Family Package offers two rooms, one of which is 50% off, breakfast, free meals for underthrees, and half-price food and drink for 4-12 year olds. Prices start at £419 for the package, and make
sure to also book a table for the grown-ups at the Michelin-starred Number One. NIRA CALEDONIA niracaledonia.com A favourite of former Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter, Nira Caledonia offers bespoke sophistication in a Georgian townhouse in the New Town. Each individually-styled room has goose-down pillows, L’Occitane toiletries and even a digital radio alongside all the usual amenities. In future years they’ll be offering the chance to book out the entire hotel for Christmas, so if you’ve got a big family, get planning now. RADISSON COLLECTION ROYAL MILE radissonhotels.com One of the most desirable addresses in the city, just a stone’s
throw from Edinburgh Castle, the former Hotel Missoni has been given a makeover in recent years but retains its sense of style. Sunday to Thursday, rooms start from £139, so it’s haute couture with a fast fashion price tag. Top off your stay with a meal in Cucina or a drink in the Epicurean bar,
Main image: Edinburgh Christmas From the top: The Balmoral, The Sheraton
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FOODIES FOCUS WINTER BREAKS Clockwise from left: Nira Caledonia, ABode Glasgow, CitizenM
GLASGOW
or time your visit to coincide with one of their monthly brunches, a feast for £25 per person. THE SHERATON sheraton.marriott.com Unbeatable views of Edinburgh Castle over the Usher Hall are one of the big attractions of The Sheraton, but the modern rooms featuring Scottish textiles, colour-changing mood lighting and bathrobes are the real draw. Indulge in a Soak Your Senses session, where the expertise of One Spa is brought to your own room with ESPA bath oils, a pot of herbal tea and therapeutic music. Discounts are available on advanced booking, while families booking two rooms can get 50% off the second room.
WHERE TO GO: St Enoch Square, Glasgow, 9 Nov – 23 Dec A traditional German market with chalet-style stalls, two bars and a windmill for all those Insta selfies. George Square, Glasgow, 25 Nov – 31 Dec A vintage wonderland with a helter 46 foodies
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ABODE GLASGOW HOTEL abodeglasgow.co.uk With room categories ranging from Comfortable to Fabulous, ABode’s Bath Street branch offers a hearty Glasgow welcome in the city centre. From the original cage lift to the quirky wallpaper and furnishings, there’s a real sense of fun that will make your trip to the city truly memorable.
CITIZENM citizenm.com Hotels don’t get much more up-to-date than CitizenM, with its technologically-advanced bedrooms, where you can alter the colour and intensity of the lighting and shut the curtains from your bed. If your budget is tighter but your desire for style is limitless, this hotel is the answer.
BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE HOTEL kimptonblythswoodsquare.com Every effort has been made at Blythswood Square to preserve its original Georgian features. Modern expectations of luxury are very much at the forefront, however, with comfortable beds, complimentary treats and marble bathrooms. It’s even dog-friendly, so Rover won’t have to miss out on the Bratwurst at the Christmas market.
DAKOTA dakotahotels.co.uk The Regent Street branch of the Dakota chain provides a modern oasis in Glasgow city centre, where monsoon showers, bespoke toiletries and Sky TV come as standard. Downstairs meat is the star at The Grill restaurant, or there are creative cocktails in the bar.
skelter, carousel and the chance to meet Santa at the daily advent calendar. East Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh, 16 Nov – 4 Jan Princes Street becomes a carnival of Christmas again. Get lost in the tree maze to work up an appetite for waffles, mulled cider and candy floss. foodies.co.uk
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sustainably sourced BEANS from all over the world roasted in house. be sure that our knowledgable and friendly staff will help you take home a coffee that you’ll love. Visit Us: 9 Dean Park Street, Edinburgh, EH4 1JN 44 East Trinity Road, Edinburgh, EH5 3DJ web: mreion.com instagram: @mr_eion
Festive Fairmont St Andrews
Experience an unforgettable holiday this Festive season at Fairmont St Andrews. Celebrate with a range of festive breaks over the Christmas, Mid-Festive, and Hogmanay season. Enjoy the return of Fairmont St Andrews’ Hogmanay Fireworks, Santa’s Grotto, Festive Savoy Afternoon Tea, Family Movies and more!
BOOK NOW standrewsbay.com/festive standrews.scotland@fairmont.com 01334 837000
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25/10/2019 15:58
PAUL KAYNE GLYNN PURNELL CHEF Q&A
Monarch of the
GLYNN
We spoke with Glynn Purnell ahead of his appearance at the Signature Festival in Aberdeen about his foodie inspirations
How did you get into cooking? I got in to cooking when I was around about 10. I used to go to the markets with my mum, and then I started experimenting at home. My first dish was baked beans and curry powder. My brother and sisters thought I was a culinary genius – as did I! Who has most inspired you in the kitchen? Claude Bosi and Andreas Antona – two great chefs. Also my mum for her solid Midlands cooking.
What is your favourite Scottish ingredient to cook with? Scottish raspberries. I do a white chocolate and raspberry delice with beautiful Scottish raspberries.
Everything from pigs’ trotters to stews – rabbit stew with lentils and leeks was a particular favourite of mine. My dad was also an inspiration. He bought a wok after he saw Ken Hom on the telly one day. Then he bought a spice rack after he saw Madhur Jaffrey! We used to watch Food and Drink on BBC when I was about 10 years old, and it blew both our minds when I was asked to go on it when they brought it back in 2013.
THE SIGNATURE FESTIVAL Over the past two years the Signature Festival, held at the Chester Hotel in Aberdeen, has raised £356,000 for local charities. This year’s line-up also includes Roy Brett, Daniel Clifford, Martin Wishart and Britain’s best chocolatier William Curley. Visit signaturefoodfestival.co.uk for more details.
What is the philosophy behind the menus at your restaurants? My philosophy is all about my inspirations, my memories and flavours from childhood – honeycomb from the fair, cinder toffee, curry, corned beef and brown sauce sandwiches, cheese and pineapple. All of these things are on my menus at the moment, but my own take on them. There’s quite a few of my classic signature dishes still on the menu at Purnell’s, even after 12 years – the customers won’t allow me to take them off. They’ll probably all still be on the menu in another 12 years as well, in their future versions.
What other Scottish ingredients do you enjoy cooking? I love Scottish girolles. I do a nice mijoter of sweetcorn, girolles and sweetcorn puree, and serve it with a slow cooked chicken breast, which is steamed on the crown and then caramelised. I also use Scottish girolles with scallops in a dish with brown shrimp. I love haggis and black pudding – the black pudding that I use in the restaurant is from Stornoway. I think I must be half Scottish – just call me Glen…
Glynn Purnell appears at the Signature Festival, Chester Hotel, Aberdeen on 4th November foodies 49
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ALL TOGETHER UNIQUE Whisky fans are in for a treat, our Kaleidoscope Whisky Bar is completely unique with a constantly changing menu of whisky flavours to taste and explore. With over 200 whiskies on offer, enjoy a wide selection of rare SMWS single casks along with a guest selection of unusual proprietary bottles, beers, wine, cocktails and other interesting spirits. Join us during November and December for a seasonal dram or one of our famous hot toddies! Show the bar team a copy of this advert when buying your drink and get a special society gift.* Open from 11am Monday to Saturday and from 12 noon on Sunday.
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Q U E E N S T R E E T E D I N B U R G H E H2
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*Limited to 1 gift per advert
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WHISKY BARS FOODIES
STILL GAME
On St Andrew’s Day, combine two of Scotland’s favourite things – whisky and food – with a visit to one of our top bars dedicated to the amber nectar INSTAGRAM STORIES EDINBURGH brethren, this cosy pub has WHISKY a huge selection of whisky ANGEL’S SHARE BARS packed on to its shelves and 7 - 11 Hope St, Edinburgh knowledgeable staff to talk This smart bar with its silver you through your choices. The tiles and airy feel provides an introductory flight is a good place to Insta-perfect background for your start if you’re not sure, but there’s night out. Purists will enjoy one a lot here for developed palates as of their carefully-curated whisky well. Food tends to be simple and flights, such as ‘All Smoke, No tasty, such as toasties and soup. Mirrors’ which includes Ardbeg 10 Year, Bunnahabhain 12 Year and Lagavulin 16 Year, while their UNEXPECTED JOURNEYS mixologists have created cocktails THE SCOTCH MALT WHISKY that really show off the whisky. SOCIETY Whisky even makes it into the food 28 Queen St, Edinburgh in creative dishes like the Picuillo The clue is in the name, as the peppers and vegetarian haggis with Scotch Malt Whisky Society is the a whisky and maple vinaigrette. FOLK HEROES THE BLACK CAT 168 Rose St, Edinburgh There’s no place better to enjoy a wee dram to the backdrop of live folk music than The Black Cat. Standing out from its Rose Street
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top destination for adventurous Edinburgh locals and visitors alike. The newly-launched Kaleidoscope Whisky Bar is the place to taste, and you won’t find any of the usual suspects here – instead, the Society bottles its own whiskies from top secret distilleries, all at cask strength from single barrels. You never know what you might find, but with names based purely on flavour profile, like Ginger Beer in a Champagne Flute, it’s sure to be unique.
HIGHLAND SPIRIT USQUABAE 2-4 Hope St, Edinburgh With over 400 malts on offer, it might be tricky to know where to start in this cosy-but-modern basement bar. However, the Highlands and Islands 6-course menu, running until the 24th foodies 51
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Cuc
CELERI
THE FE S TIVITIE S
CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON AT HOTEL DU VIN EDINBURGH Enjoy parties with style or celebrate a special day with family, friends or colleagues in our atmospheric Bistro du Vin and unique private dining rooms.
G OA
R OA
Ce le br ate the f e stive se ason with col le agu e s, fr ie nds and famil y. O u r thre e cou rse ce le br ation me nu is av ailable f or lu nc h and dinne r. Pr iv ate dining rooms are also av ailable.
Sunday to Wednesday £ 2 9 .9 5 per person Thur sday to Saturday £ 3 4 .9 5 per person 27 t h No vember – 24 t h D ecember
BU T T E R N U T S Q
| All mains are served with a s
CELEBR ATION D RINKS PACK AGE FROM £ 2 0
C H O CO
D r inks pac kage to inc lu de a we lcome glass of fizz, half a bottle of mine r al wate r and half a bottle of H ote l du V in S e le ction wine pe r pe rson.
RAS C
From corporate Christmas events, to a family
C R AC
Christmas Day or Boxing Day Lunch, festive afternoon teas or an entertaining New Year’s Eve we’ve got it all covered. Call us to book on 0131 247 4905 or email us events.edinburgh@hotelduvin.com
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WHISKY BARS FOODIES
November, is a sure bet. Try an Atholl Estates Highland game sausage roll with piccalilli purée and pickled autumnal vegetables, paired with a Laphroaig Love, followed by a twist on traditional cock-a-leekie paired with Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve. Top it all off with a homemade bramble fruit pastille.
ULTIMATE INDULGENCE WHISKI ROOMS 4-7 North Bank St, Edinburgh For some of the best views in Edinburgh and an exciting selection of whiskies, you can’t go wrong at this bar and dining room. Daily tastings are on offer in a private room off the adjoining shop, with a particular favourite being the Whisky and Chocolate class. There is also a special dinner menu celebrating Ardbeg, with dishes such as Ardbeg-cured salmon gravalax and Aberdeen Angus fillet steak with an Ardbeg sauce.
GLASGOW WHISKY BARS
the historic Hutchesons in the Merchant City. In the Private Dining Room you’ll be led through a tasting journey of Glenfarclas’ traditional Speyside whisky, all the way from 10 to 21 years old. You could even order a rare 1953 edition. offerings you’ll find Japanese whiskies and American bourbons, but look a little further and you’ll find malts from India, Australia and Sweden. There’s even a Welsh bottle on the shelves if you’re so inclined.
DOGGIE DELIGHTS DRAM! 232-246 Woodlands Rd, Glasgow A varied crowd favours this dogfriendly neighbourhood bar near Kelvingrove Park, and it’s easy to see why the relaxed atmosphere keeps drawing in the regulars. With folk music sessions every Sunday and Monday, it’s the ideal backdrop to sample a malt or two, including the Malt of the Month, which for October was a Tamdhu 12yr. The food is a bargain, with no dish on the dinner menu crossing the £10 mark.
GLOBAL OUTLOOK
BEN NEVIS 1147 Argyle St, Glasgow The Ben Nevis bar is certainly no snob when it comes to the amber nectar. Alongside the traditional Scottish
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ELEGANT PARTIES HUTCHESONS 158 Ingram St, Glasgow For the last word in single malt, round up at least nine friends and make your way to the top of
ONE HELL OF A GOOD TIME ÒRAN MÓR Byres Rd, Glasgow When the witching hour hits there’s no better place to be than snugly tucked away in Òran Mór’s whisky bar, where paintings of Tam O’Shanter’s encounter with the devil line the walls. No matter the hellish provenance, punters are in whisky heaven with the malts on offer, including their own 21-year-old cask strength single malt.
MINI ADVENTURES THE WEE WHISKY BAR 12 Ashton Lane, Glasgow Part of Glasgow institution the Ubiquitous Chip, The Wee Whisky Bar believes they serve more whiskies per square foot than any other bar in Scotland. Since it holds just 25 thirsty patrons, that may just be true. Sit down for a flight – there’s lowland, Islay and Glendronach on offer, as well as a tour of all the whisky regions. If you get hungry, there’s the restaurant and brasserie next door. foodies 53
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Scotland’s Sparkling Event of the Year
Saturday 16 November EDINBURGH ACADEMY
Tickets from: www.WineEventsScotland.co.uk
HALF PRICE MAIN COURSE OFFER ~ Available Evenings Only ~ Sunday - Tuesday all evening Wednesday - Friday before 7pm Saturday before 6.45pm (last booking 6.30pm)
50 WEST REGENT STREET, GLASGOW 0141 331 1655 www.amberregent.com
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RECIPE OF THE MONTH FOODIES
Acting the fool This truly is an instant showstopper and super easy to make. Mix up the berries, if you like, by using your favourite brambles or mixed berries
Blackberry fool cheesecake tart Serves: 8 250g mascarpone 150ml double cream 100g natural yoghurt 1 tsp vanilla bean paste or extract Zest and juice of 1 lemon 3 tbsp icing sugar 100g blackberries 1 ready-made sweet shortcrust pastry case (about 20.5cm)
Put the mascarpone, cream, yoghurt, vanilla and lemon zest into a large bowl, then sift over 2 tablespoons icing sugar. Use a hand-held electric whisk to mix together until just stiff. In a small food processor, whiz 50g blackberries with the remaining icing
sugar and lemon juice. Push the puree through a sieve (discard any pips), then marble through the creamy mixture. Spoon the mixture into the pastry case, smooth into place and top with the remaining berries.
From Good Housekeeping Express, HarperCollins, ÂŁ18.99 foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES TRAVEL
THROUGH THE
MIST
Sue Hitchen visited Kinloch Lodge on Skye, the Misty Isle, for a weekend’s foraging, otter spotting, gin making and fine dining
S
et at the foot of Kinloch Hill and at the head of Loch na Dal on the Isle of Skye, Kinloch Lodge was the family home of food writer and cook Lady Claire Macdonald, and is now run by her daughter Isabella and her friendly, welcoming team. Interiors are Scottish country-cosy – walls lined with family portraits, roaring fires and comfy sofas. Marcello Tully’s restaurant is the focal point, offering a 5- or 7-course dinner menu that embraces the island’s bounty. Wonderfully sweet, aromatic parsnip soup full of the aniseed flavours of Pernod was a great start, served with Isle of Mull
Mini pot still Cheddar and cracked pepper bread and homemade butters. Crispy Black Isle lamb shoulder came deep fried and piping hot – the shredded lamb wonderfully tender with subtle flavours of mint
jus and pureed peas, while Marcello’s version of surf n’ turf was a delight, with melting Mallaig monkfish, slow-roasted Moray pork, tangy apple gel and madeira jus. Marcello’s special seared West Coast scallops were delightfully sweet, delicate and tender, with heightened flavours and a kick of spice from a rich and creamy peanut sauce. The stars of the show, though, were langoustines served on a warm crab mousse, bursting with crabmeat and the delicious surprise of claws stuffed with scallop mousse.
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TRAVEL FOODIES
HOW TO BOOK Kinloch Lodge’s three-day foraging package includes: DAY 1 Arrival, welcome drinks, five-course dinner DAY 2 Morning foraging with Skye Ghillie including foraged cocktails, five-course dinner DAY 3 3-hour group gin making class with Isle of Skye Distillers including a 500ml bottle of your own hand made gin, sevencourse dinner. The package price starts at £620 per person. kinloch-lodge.co.uk www.otter.org isleofskyedistillers.com
No Scottish trip in autumn is complete without game, and the Fort August venison fillet was delightful, accompanied by sweet parsnip, carrots and baked apple. Then it was time for the cheese course, and the burst of flavours in the caramelised fig relish really worked with the local goats cheese and crisp Parmesan biscuit Savoury taste buds thoroughly
Marcello Tully’s restaurant is the focal point of the hotel
Foraging with Mitch satisfied, it was on to pudding. Biting into the white chocolate bombe revealed a wonderfully sweet vanilla panna cotta, and we delighted in the tart flavours of the accompanying mango sorbet. Petits four and coffee in the drawing room in front of the open fire was a perfect end to the evening. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast that included Marcello’s award winning porridge, we set out with our guide Ben Yoxon for an otter-spotting expedition to a beach that had reported recent activity, and were delighted, after a patient wait, to see a wild otter feeding and basking in the sunlight.
Then it was off to Isle of Skye Distillers, where, with botanicals foraged with Mitch from Kinloch including hogweed seeds, bog myrtle, wild raspberries and meadowsweet, we spent the afternoon concocting our own gin using a miniature copper pot still. Guided by expert gin maker Alistair, we produced our own personalised bottle of gin. Back at the hotel, masseuse Anita Myatt treated me to a wonderful, holistic massage with her own blend of essential oils. Time to relax in the bathtub in my room, which had wonderful views over the loch and the setting sun. foodies 57
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ld” or .” W .K he n t e U 19 a i in th s 20 p e S pa rd sid on S Awa y r nt ati pa ou stin ry S C u t es De ux “B Best rld L “ o W
The Perfect Christmas Present
The Gift Voucher
www.stobocastle.co.uk Tel: 01721 725300 reservations@stobocastle.co.uk Stobo Castle Health Spa, Stobo, Peeblesshire EH45 8NY
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Half Day Visit Including: Lunch or Afternoon Tea From £69 Revive Spa Day Including: Relaxing Water Massage & Lunch From £99
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HEALTH & BEAUTY FOODIES
Give me some
SKIN MARCLIFFE SPA Marcliffe Hotel, Pitfodels marcliffe.com You know that a hotel is serious about relaxation when they design their own mattresses to make sure they’re the last word in comfort. The same attention to detail is also apparent in their spa, which uses Comfort Zone products in many of their treatments. TRY: A Grotta Guisti Mud body treatment – a unique experience with the healing thermal waters from a unique ancient source in Tuscany. Recommended for complete tension relief and purified and remineralized skin.
WOODLAND SPA Fonab Castle, Pitlochry fonabcastlehotel.com With stunning Highland views on the shores of the River Tummel, Fonab’s peaceful location will encourage a total body reset before the busy season ahead. TRY: A Matis body wrap, in which the beauty therapist begins by addressing your concerns, whether that be detoxing, slimming, relaxing or anti-aging, and offers the best treatment for your personal needs. Once you’ve let the oils and nutrients do their work, its followed by a full body exfoliation and moisturisation. foodies.co.uk
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Unwind and get ready for the festive season with a spa treatment at a luxurious hotel
NOW BY ONE SPA 8 Conference Square, Edinburgh nowbyonespa.com Part of the Sheraton Hotel’s One Spa, NOW offers everything from facials to pedicures. A popular option is their range of CACI treatments – nonsurgical skincare using painless LED technology and micro currents to leave skin smoother, plumper and glowing. TRY: CACI healing blemish fix, which targets blemishes, age spots and pigmentation by resurfacing the skin. It finishes with a relaxing hydrating gel mask to calm and soothe the skin.
STOBO CASTLE HEALTH SPA Stobo, Peeblesshire stobocastle.co.uk Scotland’s only destination spa, Stobo is a luxurious castle retreat in the Scottish Borders. As you would expect, the whole experience of your trip is geared towards total relalxation. TRY: Get the complete package with a Luxury Spa Day, which includes a full-body massage, Essential Booster facial, a three-course lunch and a tour of the gardens from £180 per person. foodies 59
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FOODIES REVIEWS
Foodies
RESTAURANT REVIEWS NOTO
BO & BIRDY Bo & Birdy occupies a breathtaking space within the revered Blythswood Square Hotel. We take a couple of the house cocktails – a sherbety gin-based number served with a peacock feather which tickles our faces – as we peruse the menu, which focuses on Scottish produce, prepared in bistro fashion. For starters we have the pork pie, which is carved from a glistening ‘loaf’ and plated up table-side from a marble trolley of deliciousness, alongside various mustards and chutneys. The seared scallops are served with a crisp variety of greens, although the scallops themselves could have arrived to the table a bit hotter. For main course, the cheddar macaroni cheese with braised
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brisket is a cauldron of perfectly gooey and delightfully moreish morsels, perfect for a dark evening. The other main of plaice with butter sauce is a bit of a mystery, however, as the fish and butter combines to make something that’s altogether too salty to enjoy, and the accompanying courgette ribbons are unable to offer any respite. It’s full marks for both desserts, though. The strawberry mousse resembles an art deco masterpiece encased in a pastel pink yoghurt ganache, which gives way to a molten strawberry centre. The salted caramel pudding is the perfect contrast of sweet and savoury, with a healthy dollop of Scottish fudge ice cream. A visit to Bo & Birdy is an exquisite experience, and with a few tweaks to the menu it could be one to enjoy again and again. 11 Blythswood Square, Glasgow G2 4AD boandbirdy.com Gary McIntyre
The love of Scottish ingredients shines through at Noto, the new restaurant from chef-patron Stuart Ralston, whose first venue, Aizle, has been a local favourite since 2014. With the weather turning colder, my dining partner and I are drawn to indulgent dishes, and North Sea Crab fits the bill, its shell filled with crab meat swimming in butter. Next appears a snowstorm of Parmesan, concealing three Berkswell cheese croquettes – and we end up fighting over the last croquette. The same dilemma occurs with the Jerusalem artichokes – three balls of perfectly cooked, nutty artichoke topped with enough truffle shavings to make Miss Piggy swoon. Small plates scraped, we dive into the bigger offerings, beginning with an American classic – buttermilk chicken, fried to juicy perfection, with waffles and a punch of caviar. Next is a char siu pork bao, fluffy and flavoured with teriyaki. To finish we can’t resist trying the Michel Cluizel chocolate, miso and hazelnut dessert, and it’s quite possibly one of my favourite things I’ve eaten this year. Make sure you leave room for pudding. 47a Thistle St, Edinburgh EH2 1DY Caroline Whitham
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COCKTAILS FOODIES
Brambling on Take advantage of foraged brambles to make a beautiful, flavoured gin – a wonderful gift for friends or a wee present to yourself 1 litre gin 300g foraged brambles 250g sugar Cinnamon sticks Clementine peel Cloves Ginger Vanilla Bay leaves Chuck all the ingredients in a sterilised, airtight container and shake until the sugar is dissolved. Keep the container somewhere you can see it so you’ll remember to turn it over/shake it a few times daily. After a month of this, voilà! Strain the mixture through a sieve or colander and transfer the liquid into sterilised bottles and seal. To serve, fill a tumbler with crushed ice and some brambles. Pour over a serving of bramble gin and top with Prosecco. Add a ring of clementine peel and a cinnamon stick for a final flourish.
From The Coorie Home by Beth Pearson, photography by Ciara Menzies. Black and White Publishing, £14.99
SCOTTISH GIN AWARDS This year’s Scottish Gin Award winners have just been announced, with Lenzie Gin taking Gin of the Year. Gin Distillery of the Year: Dunnet Bay Best Newcomer: GlenWyvis Distillery foodies.co.uk
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Gin Destination: The Orkney Distillery Distilled Gin: Rock Rose Premium Winter Edition High Strength Gin: Pickerings Navy Strength Gin Liqueuer: Elgin Moray Mocha
Cask Gin: Makar Mulberry Aged Flavoured Gin: Persie Herby & Aromatic Fruit Flavoured: Caorunn Scottish Raspberry Old Tom Gin: Holyrood Auld Tam foodies 61
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the award-winning distillery the the award-winning award-winning award-winning distillery distillery distillery ininin in the heart highland perthshire the the heart heart ofof of highland highland highland perthshire perthshire perthshire
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FOODIES WINE GUIDE WORDS DIANA THOMPSON OF WINE EVENTS SCOTLAND
DREAMY IN A BOTTLE The Edinburgh Uncorked Facebook group inspires us as we look forward to Foodies Christmas
At Foodies Festival Christmas we’ll be tasting great wines that are available locally and either offer great value or will be on special offer. What we’ll be showing is top secret, but in the meantime, here are some wines which are perfect Edinburgh Uncorked examples.
this aromatic grape. Tres Mares is an excellent example, refreshing with hints of tropical fruit, elegant and utterly delicious.
Cave de Lugny Blanc de Blanc Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV, France Waitrose £13.99 (£10.49 from 13 November to 3 December) Crémant is created in the same traditional bottle fermented method as Champagne and is produced in various regions throughout France. Offering great value for money it’s well worth looking out for. This Crémant from Bourgogne is certainly no exception, offering elegant, ripe citrus fruit with hints of creamy brioche and a deliciously long dry finish.
Tres Mares Albariño, Rías Baixas 2018, Spain Waitrose £9.99 (£7.49 from 13 November – 3 December) Rías Baixas nestled up in the north west corner of Spain is the heartland of Albariño grape. Known as “Green Spain” this region has plenty of sunshine as well as rainfall due to being on the Atlantic coast. The wines are quite stunning with a surprising variety of styles from foodies.co.uk
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Tesco Finest Cahors 2018 Tesco £7.50
ADOPT A VINE cuvee-privee.com, from £135 If wine is your passion, Cuvée Privée are offering the chance to adopt six vines on one of several curated vineyards in France. Once you’ve chosen your vines, they will send you a welcome box of six wines, monthly newsletters and an invitation to visit the winery. After a year you’ll receive six bottles of your own, personalised wine.
Cahors, in South West France with its hot long summers is renowned for producing some blockbuster red wines. Whilst Tesco’s Finest Cahors has plenty of flavour and punch it’s also welcomingly elegant. Lots of ripe black cherries and soft tannins make it ideal for this time of year. Incredible value too.
Finca Constancia Organic Tempranillo Moon Wine 2017, Spain Sainsbury’s £10 As you might expect, given the name, this is a biodynamic and organic wine with all the vineyard activity taking place according to the phases of the moon. This rather mystical vinicultural practice is becoming more and more popular and the proof that it works is certainly here in this bottle. This is a fabulous wine, especially at this price, and it’s bursting with juicy black fruit and integrated tannins. foodies 63
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TRIED & TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
Foodies
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...
Subtly Smoked Gin 25–35ml 1881 Subtly Smoked Gin Lime wedge Chilli Tonic 81
In a copa de balon or highball glass, pour gin over ice. To the rim of the glass add a lime wedge and a red or green chilli Top off with tonic
TOP TIP Seeing Tim Minchin on the 23rd Nov at Edinburgh Playhouse? Stop at Pickles on Broughton Street for wine and a cheeseboard first. getpickled.co.uk
Hanami
LAUNCHING THIS MONTH NOR’ LOFT CHAMPAGNE LOUNGE The seventh floor bar at the new Market Street Hotel, this hotspot offers rooftop views and over twenty different Champagnes. As well as a very contemporary take on afternoon tea, they have a small plates menu. We fancy the aubergine caviar on choux buns but could also make time for the monkfish wrapped in Serrano ham. Cocktails, beers and wines are available. 6 Market Street, Edinburgh. 0131 322 9229. www.carlton.nl.
Nor’Loft
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HANAMI In the twenty-odd years since the Yo chain started, sushi has gone from being a curiosity fringe food to the mainstream. The latest Glasgow restaurant to offer a deep dive into sushi, sashimi and more is Hanami in Finnieston. From octopus sashimi to flying fish roe gunkan via several varieties of sushi roll, their extensive menu has plenty to choose from. Noodle dishes, Peking duck and katsu curries are among the alternative options if you are still to be converted to the delights of raw fish. Pop the glass marble on a bottle of Ramune and imagine you’re in Tokyo. 1185 Argyle Street, Glasgow. 0141 248 8880. hanamifinnieston.co.uk
MEZCAL Diners can get their fiesta on at this Mexican street food joint in Glasgow city centre. If you have a taste for tacos or reckon you can tackle the tequila then you know where to go. Taking in everything from margaritas to horchata, the cocktail list is designed to get the party underway. Regular DJ sets will ensure that once started, the party won’t stop. This is the latest venture from the company that runs Rioja, The Rotunda and Halloumi restaurants, among others. 104 Hope Street, Glasgow. mezcalrestaurant.co.uk foodies.co.uk
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OUT AND ABOUT FOODIES
Out & about Looking to feature? Contact press@foodiesfestival.com
MICHEL ROUX visited Brasserie Prince, his restaurant at The Balmoral, and shared secrets of how he achieved his Michelin stars
COLD TOWN HOUSE launched their partnership with Highland Park
THE SCOTTISH CAFÉ & RESTAURANT celebrated after its refurbishment foodies.co.uk
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FOODIES.CO.UK FOODIES FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS
Chefs Theatre Lorna McNee, the winner of Great British Menu and chef at two-Michelinstarred Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, cooks a festive feast.
CHRISTMAS CUPCAKES
5
Celebrate the season with a cupcake decorating masterclass, and wow your guests with festive treats. Look out for canapé classes too.
REASONS TO GO TO FOODIES FESTIVAL CHRISTMAS
Edinburgh WINE TASTING Let the experts guide you through the perfect wines to enjoy this Christmas.
Heavenly choirs Music will fill the EICC at the Festival, with choirs and brass bands performing all weekend.
FESTIVE WORKSHOPS Turn fragrant botanicals into stunning garlands and wreaths, or create edible gifts to give to family and friends that will show them you’re thinking of them all through the year.
Buy your tickets to Foodies Festival Edinburgh EICC, 22, 23 & 24 Nov
www.foodiesfestival.com
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