FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 101 MAY 2018 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
40
WIN
ak at A spa bre ipal The Princ
RECIPES
and top chefs Aine Carlin Will Bowlby Nico Simeone
MAY 2018 ISSUE 101
A PEACH OF A MENU
Perfect dinner party dishes from Diana Henry
KRICKET
Modern Indian recipes
WHISKY MONTH l VEGAN l ORKNEY & SHETLAND
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WELCOME
Foodies Sharing is caring Published by the Media Company Publications Ltd 26A St Andrew Square Edinburgh EH2 1AF Tel: 0131 558 7134 Fax: 0131 225 4567 www.foodies-magazine.co.uk
FOODIES A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
ISSUE 101 MAY 2018 SCOTTISH EDITION FREE
A CELEBRATION OF FINE FOOD AND DRINK
40
WIN
at A spa break ipal The Princ
RECIPES
and top chefs Aine Carlin Will Bowlby Nico Simeone
MAY 2018 ISSUE 101
A PEACH OF A MENU
Perfect dinner party dishes from Diana Henry
KRICKET
Modern Indian recipes
WHISKY MONTH l VEGAN l ORKNEY & SHETLAND
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Front cover image Cook Share Eat Vegan, Áine Carlin, Mitchell Beazley, £20 (www. octopusbooks.co.uk) Photo © Danielle Wood
EDITORIAL Editor Sue Hitchen Deputy Editor Chiara Margiotta Design Vicky Axelson Editorial Assistant Emily J Hall Production Sarah Hitchen Advertising Design Jamie Smail ADVERTISING Business Development Sharon Little SUBSCRIPTIONS Receive a copy of Foodies every month. Only £15 (regular price £24) for 12 issues delivered to your door call 0131 558 7134 or email the editor: sue.hitchen@gmail.com
A
S THE WEATHER grows warmer, we can’t help but find our appetites changing: we’re craving evenings in the garden, family-style fare, and tables adorned with dishes full of fabulous summer food waiting to be shared with loved ones. Be inspired to create your own summer feast with acclaimed food writer Diana Henry’s dinner party classics, pp.14-21, or Will Bowlby’s Indian-style recipes that are just made to be shared, pp.24-29. We’re also
‘Summer means fabulous food shared with loved ones’
showcasing Áine Carlin’s colourful party-perfect vegan dishes, pp.32-39, or if you’re looking to get your plantbased fix while eating out, head to one of our top vegan spots in Edinburgh and Glasgow, pp.32-39. We’re also honouring our heritage with a celebration of the best foodie products from Orkney and Shetland, p.23, and raising a glass to our favourite malts for Scottish Whisky Month, pp.47-49. Of course, our tastes are internationally inclined too, so we’re toasting to one of our favourites cuisines with a round-up of our favourite Italian restaurants in Edinburgh, p.31. Plus, we’re chatting to Six by Nico chef and founder Nico Simeone about his new restaurant in the capital and his menu inspiration the faithful chippie! We’ve also included our foodie guide to Glasgow’s East End, p.45, and given you the lowdown on the best new eateries in town with reviews of the brand new Chop House, Gather by Zique, and Six by Nico, pp. 56-57.
Finally, we have an exclusive competition with The Principal Charlotte Square, offering up one lucky foodie the chance to win an overnight stay, Twilight Tea, and two spa treatments, p.13. Don’t miss out. So invite the whole family round, whip up a spread, and share the love and the food. Sue Hitchen, Editor CONTRIBUTORS
Diana Henry is the awardwinning food writer at the Sunday Telegraph and author of 8 books.
Will Bowlby is the chef and cofounder of Kricket and a Young British Foodies 2017 finalist. foodies 3
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edinburgh’s favourite food & Drink festival
Appearing
WITH TOP CHEFS inverleith park 3, 4, 5 august
food & drink
Live
Toploader The Hoosiers
live music
masterclasses
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CONTENTS
11
This month
32 24
BOOKS, TV, WHAT’S ON NEWS SHOPPING
7 9 11
COMPETITION A city spa break at The Principal
13
DIANA HENRY 14 Dinner party dishes from the famed food writer ORKNEY & SHETLAND Our favourite Island products
23
WILL BOWLBY Kricket’s Indian-inspired recipes
24
EDINBURGH ITALIAN RESTAURANTS 31 Where to get your Mediterranean fix
14 52
ÁINE CARLIN Party-perfect vegan recipes
32
VEGAN The best vegan restaurants and producers
41
CHEF Q&A Nico Simeone shares a recipe
42
GLASGOW EAST END The foodie hotspots
45
WHISKY A celebration of Scottish whisky
47
HAYMARKET Where to eat and drink
51
INTERIORS 52 REVIEWS 56 COOK SCHOOLS 59 COCKTAILS 61 NEW BARS 64 OUT & ABOUT 66
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BOOKS, TV & WHAT’S ON FOODIES
Cooking the books The Wickaninnish Cookbook Wickaninnish Inn, Appetite by Random House, £28.67 The Canadian hotel shares the recipes that have made their restaurant iconic. Mouthfeel: How Texture Makes Taste Ole Mouritsen & Klavs Styrbaek, Columbia University Press, £22 Learn more about the connections between science and our favourite foods. Larder: From Pantry to Plate Robin Gill, Absolute Press, £26 Discover the forgotten techniques of British cuisine with Robin Gill’s unique, seasonal, and traditionally inspired recipes.
Vegas Cakes The creative cake connoisseurs at Freed’s Bakery in Las Vegas show off their skills with a range of stunning bespoke cakes. Tune in to see the team develop an elaborate unicorn cake, massive gingerbread house, and an impressive custom design for a local baseball team all before your eyes. Vegas Cakes Series 1 continues on Food Network UK with double-bills on Wednesdays from the 16th May at 9pm.
What’s on EDINBURGH CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL 25-27 May, Edinburgh Don’t miss out on one of the festival city’s newest favourites. The Edinburgh Craft Beer Festival is back for its second year, with over forty brewers competing to win over your taste buds. Head to the Biscuit Factory for expert tasters, street food vendors, and tunes from the internationally acclaimed Two Door Cinema Club and local legends Mogwai
ROYAL WEDDING AFTERNOON TEA 19 May, St Andrews If you can’t make it to Windsor Castle for Harry and Meghan’s big day, the next best place to toast the royal wedding is the Fairmont St. Andrews where the nuptials will be screened over high tea in the atrium. Dress to impress and enjoy a variety of handmade cakes and patisserie, complete with a wedding cake centrepiece for the full experience.
GLASGOW COFFEE FESTIVAL 19-20 May, Glasgow Taste, brew, learn and sip at Scotland’s biggest celebration of everything coffee. Meet the coffee roasters themselves, watch expert baristas from across the nation compete for the UK Brewer’s Cup, pick up beans to take home, and drink specialty java to support the burgeoning independent coffee scene energising the UK. foodies 7
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Set in an idyllic country estate on the outskirts of Edinburgh, Melville Castle is a unique and enchanting location for your Special Day. The Castle has played host to weddings of all shapes and sizes from the grandest of society weddings to smaller and more intimate affairs. Dating back to 1786, Melville Castle offers you an array of beautifully adorned private rooms, a fully equipped marquee, 33 en-suite bedrooms and is nestled within 54 acres of parkland, providing a most romantic backdrop for your wedding photographs.
Tel: 0131 654 0088 Email: events@melvillecastle.com Website: www.melvillecastle.com @melvillecastle facebook.com/melvillecastle Melville Castle, Gilmerton Road, Midlothian, EH18 1AP
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MEAT-FREE & MARVELLOUS Make Meat-free Mondays that bit easier with something tasty from the brand new plant-based range by Gosh!. Featuring 15 different products, we love the Broad Bean & Quinoa Bites. goshfood.com
SIPPING AL FRESCO
Foodies
NEWS
REBEL, REBEL
Celebrate the start of the warmer weather with the brand new Edinburgh Gin 1670, an aromatic gin filled with herbaceous, floral notes from fresh botanicals handpicked from Edinburgh’s own Royal Botanic Garden. edinburghgin.com
Heading up the chocolate revolution, Rebel Chocolate have created a delicious milk chocolate with less than half the sugar content of traditional milk chocolate and 25% more protein - no wonder they scooped up Scottish Innovation of the Year 2018! rebelchocolate.co.uk
0 with Garnish your Edinburgh Gin 167 a basil leaf - and enjoy in the garden, of course
CAPITAL MALT
HORSING AROUND In honour of his appearance at the 2018 season launch of Hamilton Park Racecourse, Scotland’s National Chef Gary Maclean has created a unique dish inspired by the horses themselves, featuring carrot caviar, hay smoked celeriac, and parsnip crisps. hamiltonpark.co.uk
Whisky distilling is coming back to the capital. Holyrood Distillery have succesfully completed a bid to open up Edinburgh’s first whisky distillery for 90 years on St Leonard’s Lane, complete with a full visitor experience centre. Look out for an impressive range of single malts, gins and liqueurs to come. holyroodparkdistillery.com news 9
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, e s e e h c s... d o n o F a d g
e la n s I v e t g Award winnin from Bu
Bute Island Foods Ltd. - Tel: +44 (0) 1700 505357 Fullpage.indd 10
No artificial colours or preservatives. Lactose free - Dairy free - Gluten free - Cholesterol free 01/05/2018 12:12
SHOPPING FOODIES Chopping board coastalhome.co.uk, £17
Fish platter dobbies.com, £29.99
Pendant light darlighting. co.uk, £86.40 Food cover tch.net, £10.50
Fish pegs tch.net, £4.50
Tea cosy sophieallport.com, £14
BY THE SEASIDE
Bring a splash of nautical fun into your kitchen with these seaside accessories
Swedish fish dishcloth andshine.co.uk, £3.50
Salt & pepper pots coastalhome.co.uk, £6.95 Measuring spoons athomeinthecountry.co.uk, £16.50
Mussel pot gardentrading.co.uk, £40
Tea towels coastalhome.co.uk, £10 foodies 11
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Inspired by the flavours of the Levant “Definitely worth experiencing”
Edinburgh feasts “... every dish was licked clean”
THE SCOTSMAN “...not-to-be-missed”
i-on magazine
MEZZE · CHARCOAL GRILL · COCKTAIL BAR Book online: baba.restaurant | @babaedinburgh 0131 527 4999 | 130 George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 4JZ Social icon
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WIN
Win a city spa break at The Principal Charlotte Square
E
XPERIENCE absolute luxury with plenty of character at The Principal Charlotte Square. Fresh off the back of a multimillion pound refurbishment, the city centre Edinburgh hotel combines the elegance of its Georgian townhouse home while introducing unique design features and vibrant colours for a sense of cosmopolitan cool. This month, we’re offering the chance for one lucky reader to win an overnight stay for two. The prize doesn’t end there, though. You will also get to enjoy The Principal’s unique Twilight Tea, an all-day, Levantinspired afternoon tea with a twist, with savouries including spicy merguez, chilli and dukkah sausage rolls, and daily changing handmade cakes.
Served up in The Garden, their stunning indoor courtyard, you can enjoy your tea beneath the glass sun roof upon a wicker chair, surrounded by beautiful hanging plants for the complete experience. Your prize also includes a twenty-five treatment each at The Principal’s brand new spa, launched just last month. Choose from a relaxing massage, express facial, detoxifying scrub and more, and enjoy a well deserved dose of pampering. Rooms are thoughtfully and individually designed, combining modern flair with cosy comfort. Your stay even comes with breakfast included, allowing you complete relaxation throughout your stay, from start to finish. l
TO ENTER For your chance to win this great prize, simply answer the following question:
What is the name of the courtyard? To win, enter either at foodies.co.uk/win, like Foodies Magazine on Facebook and send us a message with your name and email address, or email your details to enter@ foodiesfestival.com
T&C: Entries must be received by 31/05/18. Prize is valid for a one night stay for 2 with breakfast, Twilight Tea in The Garden and 2x25min spa treatments. Prize is valid until October 2018. Prize is subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Entrants and guest must be 18+. No cash alternative. Non-transferrable. Editor’s choice is final. foodies 13
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FOODIES DIANA HENRY
What a
PEACH
Award-winning food writer Diana Henry shares her passion for menus and proves just how delicious simple dishes can be
W
hen I was sixteen I started to keep a book of menus, a school exercise book I’d carefully covered in wrapping paper. This was an odd obsession, because I didn’t cook most of the menus I created; I would’ve needed a restaurant to get through them all. The pleasure was in putting the menus together, thinking long and hard about what dishes worked. I still have the book. Most of the meals are simple: cucumber salad with dill and sour cream, goulash, baked autumn fruit. There aren’t any dishes from some of the cuisines I now love – Middle Eastern or Vietnamese, for example – but there are a few old-fashioned, embarrassingly complicated menus I wouldn’t dream of attempting these days. My parents didn’t have dinner parties. They gave parties, though. These weren’t formal, you were invited verbally (‘Come on over. We’re having a few people in.’). They were about good craic, drinking Bushmills whiskey and dancing to Nancy Sinatra. My mum prepared wonderful food, dishes that would be laid out, buffet-style on the big dining table. She thought about what worked together. From these parties, I got the idea that having people round to eat wasn’t just about food, but about creating an event, an atmosphere. I gave my first ‘dinner party’ soon after I started keeping my menu book. My school friends were bemused by the candlelit room (I’d gone over the top). ‘Are we going to celebrate mass?’ one asked. And they didn’t quite get the pineapple water ice (‘What is this?’) but I continued, undaunted. I loved ‘having people over’ but, even more, I loved putting a menu together. Composing a menu is still my favourite bit of cooking. I don’t invite people round and then
wonder what I’ll cook, I come up with a menu and then consider who would like to eat it. The term ‘entertaining’ makes me think of hostess trollies and instructions on how to plump up your cushions. I really don’t do ‘entertaining’. I just have friends round. Often I serve dinner in the midst of a mess, otherwise I wouldn’t see friends at all. I’m happy to put a roasting tin on the table and ask someone else to carve (I am terrible at carving). I don’t think you should kill yourself over dinner, but at the same time I do like all the stuff that goes with it: table linen, plates, old cutlery. Having people round to eat is about food…. and yet it isn’t. Meals, no matter how simple, are made better by small things: flowers, candles, a jug of water. They’re also made bad by small things: salami served in the plastic packet in which it comes, poor bread. I don’t like the suggestion – prevalent these days – that cooking is all about ‘lifestyle’. I think it’s about taking care of the small, seemingly unimportant things. In a single moment I realized how much other people, when cooking, care about these small things. At a restaurant in Italy, the diners at the next table didn’t have a fancy dessert, they just had a bowl of peaches and a bottle of cold Moscato. Everyone sliced their peach and dropped it into their wine. After a while they drank the wine – now imbued with the flavour of the peach – and ate the peach slices, which now tasted of the wine. This was not a complicated dish, but it was a lovely way to end a meal – seasonal, straightforward, caring, even a little magical – and it illustrated an approach to food and cooking that I already understood but hadn’t yet articulated. I’ve never forgotten this. More than a memory, those peaches became a symbol of what good food is all about. l
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ROSEMARY SHRAGER FOODIES
‘Cooking is about taking care of the small, seemingly unimportant things’
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FOODIES DIANA HENRY
Burrata with fennel, roast peppers, anchovies & capers It took a long time for burrata – a rich cream-stuffed mozzarella – to get to our shores, but thank goodness it arrived. It oozes lactic sweetness. It’s also the perfect focal point for a dish that requires few other ingredients: start with good burrata and there isn’t much that can go wrong. Here, the saltiness of anchovies and capers and the sweetness of peppers are excellent counterpoints. The fennel isn’t just for its aniseed flavour, but also for crunch.
Serves 4
l Preheat
the oven to 190°C. the pepper halves in a roasting tin, drizzle with regular olive oil and season. Roast for 30 minutes, or until soft and slightly scorched in places. Leave to cool, then cut into strips. (You can peel the skin off the peppers if you like, but I rarely bother.) l Trim the tips of the fennel, then halve the bulb lengthways. Cut the core out of each piece and remove any tough or discoloured outer leaves. Put about 3 tablespoons of the lemon juice in a bowl. Either shave each piece of fennel on a mandoline, or slice it very finely with a sharp knife. You want to end up l Place
4 red peppers, halved and deseeded Regular olive oil Sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium fennel bulb 4 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves Small handful of basil leaves, roughly torn About 12 mint leaves, torn 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more to serve 275g burrata 12 anchovies in olive oil (use a good-quality brand, such as Ortiz), chopped 2 tbsp capers, rinsed and patted dry
with wafer-thin slices. Toss in the lemon juice to stop it discolouring. l Mix the herbs together with the extra virgin olive oil, ½ tablespoon of the lemon juice and some seasoning. l Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more lemon juice, if you want. Lift the burrata out of its liquid and carefully set it on kitchen paper to drain a bit, otherwise the milky liquid seeps into the olive oil. Put the burrata on a serving plate with the pepper and fennel alongside. l Scatter on the chopped anchovies and the capers, then spoon on the herb dressing. Lightly dress the burrata with more extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately.
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Look for good quality anchovies to really pack a punch foodies 17
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FOODIES DIANA HENRY
Leg of lamb stuffed with lemon & many herbs This lamb came about because I couldn’t decide which herb to choose, so I just used several together, and I’ve now been making it for thirty years. The herb paste permeates every bit of the meat. Because it’s simple, I usually serve it with an unusual – but not complicated – side dish.
Serves 6
For the lamb 10g flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped Leaves from 10 thyme sprigs Needles from 2 rosemary sprigs, chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped, plus another 6 Sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon 1.8kg leg of lam For the vegetables Big bunch of French breakfast radishes with good fresh, perky leaves 700g baby waxy potatoes
l The day before you want to serve the lamb, put the herbs, 4 chopped garlic cloves, salt and pepper into a mortar and grind to a paste, gradually working in the extra virgin olive oil and lemon zest as you do so. l Make incisions all over the lamb with a sharp knife and loosen the meat round the protruding bone (at the tapered end of the joint) to about one-third of the way into the joint. l Rub the paste all over the lamb, down inside it, around the bone and into the incisions. Cut the remaining 6 garlic cloves into slivers, then push these down into the incisions as well. Cover loosely with cling film or foil and refrigerate for 24 hours, bringing it to room temperature before roasting (it will take about 2 hours to come to room temp).
l Preheat the oven to 220°C. Put the lamb in a roasting tin and cook it for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 180°C and roast for another 45 minutes. The lamb will be pink. If you prefer it more well done, then cook for a little longer. l Cover with foil, insulate well (I use tea towels for this) and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Transfer to a warmed serving plate. Quickly heat the juices in the roasting tin and serve them in a small jug alongside; there may not be much, but that’s okay, it’s not supposed to be a ‘gravy’. l Meanwhile, carefully wash the radishes (trying not to squash the leaves). Gently dry them and put on a serving platter. Boil the potatoes until they are tender, drain, season with salt and add to the platter with the radishes.
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Try serving with broad beans and a green salad
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FOODIES DIANA HENRY
Rye bread with radish butter & salmon caviar Peppery, earthy, salty: a good way to whet the appetite.
Serves 8 250g red radishes, preferablyFrench breakfast radishes, trimmed 120g unsalted butter, completely softened ½ tsp sea salt flakes Freshly ground white or black pepper Loaf of firm rye bread 100g jar of salmon caviar (keta)
l Put the radishes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 4–5 times until chopped into very fine dice. Transfer to a piece of muslin or a brand new J-cloth and wring out the excess liquid with your hands. l Tip into a bowl and add the butter. With a rubber spatula, work the radishes and butter with the salt until the mixture comes together into a smooth, pliable mass. Put the mixture into a ramekin or bowl and grind some pepper over the top. The butter will keep, covered with cling film, in the fridge for a couple of days. Remove it 15 minutes before serving, to let it soften. l Spread the radish butter on small squares of rye bread and spoon salmon caviar on top.
How to Eat a Peach by Diana Henry, published by Mitchell Beazley, £25 (www. octopusbooks.co.uk). Photo © Laura Edwards 20 foodies
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Get ahead: make the butter up to two days in advance
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ISLAND MAGIC OATCAKES No cheeseboard is complete without Stockan’s traditional beremeal oatcakes, 70p per 100g, stockans.com WHISKY A rich and warming amber whisky, inspired by Orkney’s viking ancestory, £37, highlandparkwhisky.com
Get a taste of the magic of the Scottish Islands with our favourite products from Orkney and Shetland
LAMB Famous worldwide, seasonal Shetland lamb offers unbeatable flavour, £90 per lamb, briggs-shetlandlamb.co.uk
BEER A mighty beer at 6% ABV, Swannay’s multiaward winning IPA Orkney Blast packs a punch but doesn’t let down on taste, boasting spicy flavours and a strong malty body, £3.10 per bottle, swannaybrewery.com GIN Mix up your G&T with the aromatic Simmer Gin, infused with orange peel, from £36 shetlandreel.com
Garnish with orange and rosemary for the perfect serve
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The spice
OF LIFE Young British Foodies ‘Chef of the Year’ shortlister Will Bowlby shares some of the signature dishes from his Indian restaurant, Kricket
As far back as I can remember, I have always been passionate about food. My earliest memory is of my mother’s chicken in a pot, a herby, unctuous dish that kick-started my fiveyear-old taste buds and began my love affair with all things to do with food. My grandmother was a
huge influence on me; she had lived in East Africa for over a quarter of a century and was a terrific cook. Her curry lunches (for up to 60 people) were legendary, and introduced me – at a very early age – to the delicate layering and spicing of meat and fish. ●
Jersey Royal Aloo Chaat Lotus root and sev adds real texture and bite to this dish. You shoud be able to find both of these ingredients at your local Indian store. Ramsons are the flowers of wild garlic leaves that grow in the woodlands during Spring. Serves 4 400g Jersey royal potatoes, washed and cut in half 1l vegetable oil 4 generous pinches of chaat masala, plus extra for seasoning 200g canned chickpeas drained and rinsed 4 tbsp coriander chutney 1 large red onion, finely chopped 5 tbsp tamarind & date chutney 5 tbsp sweetened Greek yoghurt Sea salt, to taste A handful of fresh
coriander, finely chopped A handful of sev 1 small pomegranate, halved and seeds scooped out 1 lotus root, thinly fried until crisp 3 tbsp fermented ramsons (see below): Massage sea salt into the ramson flowers for 10 min then pound with a rolling pin. Transfer to a flat tray. Pour the plant matter and liquid into a jar, and press down to make sure it’s completely submerged. Leave for 2–3 weeks before tasting.
● Cook the potatoes in a pan of boiling salted water for about 15 minutes until just tender. Drain and leave to cool. Crush the potatoes gently with your hand just to break the skins. ● Pour the oil in a heavy-based saucepan, and heat until it isabout 180°C. The oil is hot enough when a cube of bread sizzles when dropped into it. ● Deep-fry the potatoes for about 5 minutes until crisp and golden. Remove from the pan, drain on kitchen paper, then season with chaat masala. ● Put the chickpeas in a bowl along with with the coriander chutney, red onion, one-third of the tamarind chutney, one third of the sweetened yogurt and half the coriander. ● Season well to taste with salt and chaat masala. Mix the chickpeas with the potatoes, then spoon into 4 serving bowls. Top with the remaining tamarind chutney, yoghurt and coriander, the sev, pomegranate seeds, ramsons and lotus root crisps. Serve immediately.
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WILL BOWLBY FOODIES
E
CHUTNEYS Fancy making your own chutneys? Head to foodies.co.uk to get Will’s Coriander Chutney and Tamarind & Date Chutney recipes. Add them to this dish, and serve up any leftovers as a dip with naan bread.
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FOODIES WILL BOWLBY
Amritsari haddock in mustard oil Amritsari fish pakoras are a popular street-food dish in the state of Punjab, in the north of India. They usually comprise of spiced fish coated in chickpea flour and fried street-side, then served with chutneys. Any fish can be used – such as cod or pollock – but in this case we use haddock. The addition of spiced peas and picked onions could almost make you feel like you’re eating fish and chips. Almost…
Serves 4 600g haddock, cut into 2.5 cm pieces 1l vegetable oil 400g cornflour 2 tbsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder A generous pinch of chaat masala, to garnish 200g pea shoots, to garnish A pinch of caster sugar A pinch of sea salt
2 green chillies, finely chopped 2 tbsp ginger & garlic paste Caster sugar, to taste Sea salt, to taste
For the pea purée 500g frozen petit pois, defrosted
For the pickled shallots 200g banana shallots, thinly sliced into rings 200ml pickling liquor (see recipe below) For the mustard marinade 1 tsp caraway seeds 1 tsp onion seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 100ml mustard oil
l To make the pickled shallots, steep the shallots
in the pickling liquor for 1–2 hours at room temperature, then keep in the fridge until needed. l To make the marinade, toast the caraway, onion and fennel seeds in a dry frying pan over a gentle heat for 30 seconds or so until they become fragrant, then set aside to cool. l Transfer to a bowl then add the mustard oil, green chillies and ginger and garlic paste. Season to taste with sugar and salt, mix together then turn the fish in the marinade until it is completely coated. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator. l To make the pea purée, put the peas in a blender and blitz until you have a smooth, thick consistency, adding a little water if necessary. l To cook the fish, pour the oil in a heavy-based saucepan, and heat until it is about 180°C. The oil is hot enough when a cube of bread sizzles when dropped into it. l Combine the cornflour, turmeric and chilli powder together in a bowl, and season with sugar and salt. Lightly dust the fish in the seasoned cornflour and carefully place into the hot oil, piece by piece. l Cook for a couple of minutes until the fish pieces turn golden brown. Remove the fish from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. l Just before serving, sprinkle the fish with chaat masala, garnish with the pickled shallots and pea shoots and serve with the pea purée and pickled shallots.
PICKLING LIQUOR I use this with all kinds of vegetables but cucumber is a special favourite. It will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks – it keeps forever! If you want to make a smaller amount, the recipe is based on equal quantities of vinegar and sugar.
Makes 1 litre 500ml white wine vinegar 500g caster sugar 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 4 cloves 2 fresh Indian bay leaves
l Put all the ingredients in a heavy-based saucepan over a low heat and stir occasionally until all the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool before decanting into a sterilised jar. Store in the fridge until required.
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GINGER & GARLIC PASTE Ginger & Garlic Paste is readily available in supermarkets, or head to foodies.co.uk to get Will’s recipe and mix up your own.
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FOODIES WILL BOWLBY
Alphonso mango sorbet with chilli & coconut Mango is the king of fruit in India, and everyone will tell you Alphonsos are the best of the best. When mango season arrives in India, people go mad for the Alphonso and buy up as much of it as they can get their hands on.
Serves 4 – 5
In a saucepan, heat 160ml water until it reaches boiling point. Remove from the heat, add the lime juice and stir in the sugar until it dissolves. Let the syrup cool for 30 minutes. l Put the mango and 250ml water into a food processor and blitz to form a smooth purée. Add the cooled sugar syrup and blitz briefly again until thoroughly mixed. l Pour the mix into an ice-cream machine and churn to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you don’t have one, transfer the cooled liquid onto a freeze-proof container and put in the freezer for a couple of hours until it starts to solidify. Stir with a spatula to break up the ice crystals, then return it to the freezer. Repeat this process every 30 minutes until set. l The sorbet is best served immediately, sprinkled with the coconut and chilli, but it will freeze for up to 4 days and still taste good. l
Juice of 2 limes 160g caster sugar 450g ripe Alphonso mangoes, destoned and peeled 4 tsp toasted coconut flakes 1 red chilli, finely diced, to garnish
KRICKET: An Indian-inspired Cookbook by Will Bowlby, published by Hardie Grant, £26. Photo © Hugh Johnson 28 foodies
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A light yet vibrant end to any hearty dinner
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ginbothy.co.uk
Locanda de Gusti is a place to relax and experience authentic Italian food made with love and passion.
102 Dalry Road | Edinburgh | EH11 2DW www.locandadegusti.com | Tel 0131 346 8800
Award winning whisky and real ale pub in the heart of Edinburgh’s old town, with 400 Whiskies. 80 W Bow EH1 2HH 0131 226 7667
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EDINBURGH ITALIAN PERTHSHIRE RESTAURANTS FOODIES FOODIES FOCUS
CUCINA 1 George IV Bridge, EH1 1AD www.radissoncollection.com Cucina takes inspiration from both its Italian heritage and its Edinburgh home, combining classic Italian dishes with first class Scottish ingredients for a modern, elevated Italian dining experience. Boasting a seasonal menu full of locally sourced produce, this colourful restaurant puts fine dining first. Try the haggis ravioli for a perfect partnership of Scotland and Italy.
Civerinos Below: Origano
CONTINI 103 George Street, EH2 3ES www.contini.com One for ethically minded diners, Contini put sustainability and seasonality first, sourcing local, sustainable ingredients for their creative menu. With a stunningly elegant dining room in the heart of the city too, it’s the ideal destination to feed your Italian food cravings.
Locanda de Gusti Contini
EAT ITALIAN Looking for your Italian fix? We’ve got you covered with Edinburgh’s finest
ORIGANO 236 Leith Walk, EH6 5EL www.origano-leith.co.uk Bringing history into their architecture, Origano’s open plan dining area, exposed stone walls, and reclaimed wooden flooring honour the building’s heritage as the only remaining part of the Victoria India Rubber Mill. Their traditional and gluten-free homemade dough sets the scene for a pizza to remember, while inventive toppings will keep you coming back for more.
LOCANDA DE GUSTI 102 Dalry Road, EH11 2DW www.locandadegusti.com Bringing a taste of Naples to Edinburgh, Locanda de Gusti specialises in traditional Italian fare, making all the food from scratch according to family recipes. Their homemade pasta is famous, and they even make their own glutenfree pasta, too. CIVERINOS 5 Hunter Square, EH1 1AW www.civerinos.com With a cult following in the city,
Cucina
Civerinos offers up truly inventive pizza, by the pie or by the slice, with toppings including honey roasted pumpkin, pear and gorgonzola, and slow cooked beef brisket. This is unpretentious Italian fare, fused with globally renowned street food in a way that’s new and fresh. foodies 31
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FOODIES ÁINE CARLIN
Made to
SHARE Áine Carlin’s dishes are perfect for sharing with family and friends, full of flavour, colour, and creativity - plus, they’re all completely vegan
F
or as long as I can remember the kitchen has been the social focal point of any place I have ever called home – whether the Irish childhood home that gave me Sunday dinners and creamy rice puddings, the London one I briefly shared with friends in my mid-twenties (with its array of varying tastes and preferences), or the current Penzance place that my husband and I have lovingly cultivated. Each has shown me the power food possesses in bringing us together, no matter what cultural background we may come from, or indeed what dietary requirements we might have. For me, veganism has opened so many doors and has brought me so much joy and inner peace, it makes sense that I want to share it with my friends and family. Nothing brings me more happiness than creating an abundance of wholesome, seasonal food that will perfectly set the stage for any gathering, no matter how fancy or humble.
Of course, I like to treat every meal as an event, even if those occasions happen to involve being curled up on the sofa on a gloomy Wednesday with only person to feed – yourself. You could say my raison d’etre is to ensure food (and the cooking thereof) is both straightforward and delicious in equal measure. I’ve long since held the belief that food created under any sort of duress (self-inflicted or otherwise) never tastes quite as good as a dish made with ease and love. I like to think that many of my recipes are simply jumping-off points for people who are seeking a little encouragement when it comes to plant-based cooking. My aim is always to sway the focus away from the ‘vegan’ tagline and instead bring the food itself to the fore. Creating beautiful, colourful, nutritious food that never fails to raise an approving smile is absolutely at the core of my cooking. And yes, it just happens to be vegan too. l
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‘I like to treat every meal as an event’
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FOODIES ÁINE CARLIN
Polenta pizza with spinach & roasted squash Polenta is a bit of an obsession of my mine. I enjoy it for breakfast, adore it cut into wedges and fried, and think it makes a pretty epic substitute for mash. But this easy pizza crust might just pip everything else to the post when it comes to how best to consume this super-versatile ingredient. Basically a fancy vehicle for toppings, this crispy, crunchy, flavourful base brings a bit of unexpected wow factor to the table. Perfect for parties, it’s sure to make even the most low-key affair go off with a bang.
Serves 4-6
For the base 700ml water 175g polenta 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Sea salt flakes and black pepper
For the sauce 3 tbsp passata 1 heaped tbsp tomato purée 1 tsp oregano 1 garlic clove, minced ½ tbsp maple syrup ½ tbsp balsamic vinegar 50ml water Sea salt flakes and black pepper For the toppings ½ butternut squash, peeled and cut into bitesized pieces 1 heaped tsp oregano 1 tbsp olive oil 200g spinach 2 shallots, sliced 2 heaped tbsp freshly chopped basil, plus extra to garnish
2 tbsp pumpkin seeds 2 tbsp nutritional yeast (optional), plus extra to garnish Sea salt flakes and black pepper
For the ‘cheesy’ sunflower seed sauce 70g sunflower seeds 1 small garlic clove, minced Juice of ½ orange 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp maple syrup ½ tsp sea salt flakes 1 tbsp nutritional yeast (optional) 125ml water
l Preheat the oven to 220°C. Line a baking tray with
baking paper. l For the base, place the measured water in a saucepan
and bring to the boil. Generously salt the water, whisk in the polenta and cook over a medium heat, stirring vigorously, for 15–20 minutes, or until it thickens. Add the oil, season and continue to cook, stirring, until it becomes rubbery and pliable. l Tip the polenta mixture on to the prepared baking tray and spread it to the edges using a spatula. Transfer to the refrigerator and leave for 30 minutes to firm. l Meanwhile, prepare the toppings. Put the squash, oregano and olive oil in a bowl and toss to coat. Season generously and roast for 30 minutes, or until golden and crispy. Remove from the oven and set aside. l Increase the heat to 240°C and bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Add the spinach to the pan and cook until wilted, then remove with a slotted spoon and squeeze out any excess liquid before mincing to a rough pulp. Season and set aside. l To make the pizza sauce, add the passata, tomato purée, oregano, garlic, maple syrup, balsamic vinegar and measured water to a bowl and whisk together to combine. Season and set aside. l Once firm, bake the pizza base for 20–25 minutes until the edges begin to crisp. l Spread the base with the pizza sauce and top with the sliced shallots, wilted spinach, basil, roasted squash, pumpkin seeds and the nutritional yeast, if using. Bake for a further 15–20 minutes, or until the edges are crispy and golden. l Meanwhile, place all the ‘cheesy’ sauce ingredients in a bowl and whizz together with a hand-held blender until completely smooth. l To serve, cut the pizza into squares, drizzle over the sauce and garnish with a little extra basil and/or nutritional yeast.
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Serve this up as fabulous finger food at parties
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FOODIES ÁINE CARLIN
Sweet potato & walnut koftas Walnuts are a wonder – and I’m not just talking about their omega-3 content, although I’ll admit that is something of a draw. For me, vegan meatballs, burgers and anything else of that ilk can be a little underwhelming, with a tendency to fall apart at first bite. I know you know what I mean. This is where the humble walnut (with a little help from the ever-reliable sweet potato) comes in. Not only do walnuts add bite and texture but, crucially, they help form a surprisingly ‘meaty’ ball with the added bonus of being, well, good for you. However you shape them, these koftas are guaranteed to be devoured, whether served as finger food at parties (with requisite spicy dip accompaniment), stuffed into pittas loaded with salad, avocado and hummus (standard) or even doused in a rich tomato sauce for a twist on meatballs and spaghetti (my preference, if anyone’s asking). Certified winners, whichever way you go.
Makes 12 1 small sweet potato, halved 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp milled flaxseed 100g lightly toasted walnuts 50g panko breadcrumbs 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander ¼ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp dried chilli flakes Small bunch of fresh coriander, roughly chopped 1 spring onion, very finely chopped Sea salt flakes and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Lightly brush the sweet potato halves with 1 tsp of the olive oil, arrange skin-side down on a tray and bake for 40 minutes until soft. Remove from the oven, scoop out the flesh into a bowl and season lightly. Set aside to cool. l Combine the flaxseed with 3 tbsp water. Set aside for 5–10 minutes. l Place the walnuts in a processor and pulse to a fine crumb. Add the breadcrumbs, oregano, spices and flaxseed mixture and pulse again to combine. Transfer to a large mixing bowl, add the coriander, spring onion and sweet potato and season generously. Fold to combine, working the sweet potato into the mixture until completely incorporated. l
Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Take a tablespoon of the mixture and gently form it into a cigarlike cylinder using your fingers. Repeat with the remaining mixture, then add the kofta to the pan in batches and fry for 3–4 minutes on each side, or until golden, turning carefully as you go. (Be sure not to overcrowd the pan or the temperature will lower, resulting in the kofta absorbing too much oil.) l Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain briefly. Serve hot or cold. l
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Try these served with pittas and hummus foodies 37
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FOODIES ÁINE CARLIN
Matcha & lime pie with macerated strawberries The vibrant green hue of this (nearly) no-bake dessert coupled with the insane red of the macerated strawberries is precisely why I love to wheel this dish out at dinner parties – after all, we do eat with our eyes. The agar agar flakes ensure a firm pie that slices beautifully. If you are unfamiliar with this handy little ingredient, you’ll soon get the hang of using it. The trick is to allow the flakes to dissolve in water without stirring before pouring the liquid into the cashew/tofu mix. You’ll end up with a wonderfully zesty filling with an uplifting hint of matcha, which helpfully boosts both flavour and colour too – double whammy.
Serves 8-10
For the crust 100g desiccated coconut 100g pistachios 100g Brazil nuts 200g dried apricots ¼ tsp vanilla powder or ½ vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped Pinch of sea salt flakes 1 tbsp coconut oil
1 heaped tbsp matcha powder Pinch of sea salt flakes 250ml water 2 tbsp agar agar flakes
For the macerated strawberries 200g strawberries, hulled and sliced Juice of 1 lime ½ vanilla pod, seeds scraped 3 tbsp palm sugar
For the filling 200g cashew nuts, soaked overnight and drained 150g silken tofu Grated zest and juice of 6 limes 125ml agave nectar or maple syrup
Cook Share Eat Vegan by Áine Carlin, published by Mitchell Beazley, £20 (www. octopusbooks.co.uk) Photo © Danielle Wood
l Preheat the oven to 200°C. l To make the crust, place the desiccated coconut,
pistachios and Brazil nuts in a blender or food processor and pulse together to form a fine crumblike texture. Add the apricots, vanilla powder, salt and coconut oil and blend for 1 minute, or until it just comes together (pinch some of the mixture between your fingers to test – if it sticks easily, you’re good to go). l Transfer the crust mixture to a 23cm fluted tart tin and press into the base and sides to cover evenly. Bake for 8–10 minutes, or until lightly coloured, then remove from the oven and leave to cool in the refrigerator. l For the filling, add the cashew nuts to a blender together with the tofu, lime zest and juice, agave nectar, matcha powder and salt. Blend for 10–15 minutes, or until the mixture is completely smooth. (If it is not entirely silky, keep blending until you achieve the desired consistency, otherwise it will negatively affect the texture.) l Meanwhile, place the water in a small saucepan and sprinkle over the agar agar. Do not stir. Bring to the boil, then simmer over a medium heat for 5–10 minutes, or until the agar agar has dissolved and the water has reduced by about a third. l Add the agar agar liquid to the blender with the pie filling and blend until it is completely incorporated, scraping down the sides from time to time, then pour the filling over the cooled crust, smoothing the top with the back of a spatula. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for 4–6 hours, or until set. l For the macerated strawberries, put the berries, lime juice, vanilla seeds and palm sugar into a bowl, stir to combine and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until needed, bringing the berries to room temperature before serving. l Pile the strawberries over the centre of the pie to serve.
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This colourful dessert is guaranteed to impress foodies 39
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Quote Foodies and get 5% discount on your first order.
“Hands down the best vegan curries and sandwiches in town” — Google Business
Hygge Food (prenounced hooogar) offers a range of vegan hot & cold traditional Scottish, World & gluten free food options.
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at Free Environment Workshop Scotland’s Rural College
Wednesday 6th June 20
18
Interested in learning more about the environment? Join us for a practical workshop involving atmospheric quality assessment and find out more about environment courses offered at SRUC. This workshop is free, suitable for those with no previous experience, and open to anyone.
SRUC Edinburgh Campus from 17.00pm -19.30pm
SRUC is a charity registered in Scotland: SC003712
To book your place visit: www.sruc.ac.uk/opendays Visit our website: www.sruc.ac.uk/courses • Find your local SRUC Campus on Facebook
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VEGAN FOODIES FOCUS
Keeping it
VEGAN
These plant-based heroes are feeding Scotland’s appetite for impressive vegan fare MONO 12 Kings Court, Glasgow G1 5RB monocafebar.com Glasgow’s original meat-free hangout, Mono has made it’s mark on the Scottish vegan scene. After a decade in the business, it’s still one of the city’s most vibrant destinations, offering up not only hearty and adventurous vegan fare, but a chance to see some of the most exciting events around, from live music to book readings.
seasonality, you can always be sure of a meal that’s fresh, satisfying and completely plant-based - even the wine and beer are vegan-friendly.
CONSIDERIT
PICNIC
3-5a Sciennes, Edinburgh EH9 1NH consideritchocolate.com You won’t find any restricted diet fodder here: instead, treat yourself, guilt-free. Feast your eyes – and your stomach – on gloriously indulgent ice cream, handcrafted chocolate, and freshly made doughnuts, all completely free from animal products but fully loaded with flavour.
103 Ingram Street, Glasgow G1 1DX picnic-café.co.uk A welcoming cafe with a focus on healthy, meat-free fare, Picnic makes plant-based eating easy. The menu ranges from the likes of their signature black rice, kale and basil burger to vegan versions of Scottish favourites like empire biscuits and snowballs, all served up in eco-friendly packaging.
HENDERSONS 25c Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DX hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk The very first vegan restaurant in the capital, Hendersons is an Edinburgh institution. Known for their focus on creativity and
PRODUCERS Raven Chocolate, Bute Island Vegan Cheese, Sgaia Foods
Raven’s 100% vegan chocolate is leading the sweet revolution
Never miss cheese again with Bute Island’s huge range of vegan cheese
Make meat-free Monday’s easier with Sgaia’s vegan Mheat foodies 41
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CHEF Q&A NICO SIMEONE
MEMORY MEALS Nico Simeone has already made a name in Glasgow with his inventive tasting menus, but now he’s bringing his unique cooking style to Edinburgh with the launch of Six by Nico on Hanover Street
Where did you get the inspiration for your menu style? At Six by Nico we wanted to create food that would be playful, bursting with flavours that our guests could relate to and present them in a unique and bespoke form. Our restaurants in Glasgow and Edinburgh are home to a series of carefully curated and constantly evolving restaurant concepts. Each six weeks, the team and I will serve a brand new six-course tasting menu– each one themed around a different place, memory, or experience. Which of the dishes you’ve created has been
your favourite? Since opening in Glasgow over a year ago we have created a number of dishes that I’ve enjoyed experimenting with but I am particular proud of the Smoked Sausage dish on The Chippie menu. It shows technique, utilities fine cuts of pork and has the theatre of being smoked for the guest at their table - the taste, smell, and flavours are a winning combination. Which chefs inspire you in the kitchen?
Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and Tom Kitchin are definitely at the top of my list. They not only understand food and the customer experience but being a restauranteur, too. They have not been afraid of the difficult road to success and have not been scared to take risks. What drew you to Edinburgh for your newest restaurant? My career started with stints at Michelin-starred Number One at Balmoral, where I worked with Craig Candle and it has always been a dream of mine to open in the capital. The people of Edinburgh are real foodies and I am excited
‘It has always been a dream of mine to open in the capital’
to see their reactions at the new Hanover Street restaurant. What motivated you to create the Academy at 111 by Nico in Glasgow? Its very important for me to help to develop talent in those that might not have many opportunities. I wanted to offer the opportunity for young people that have had a poor start in life to gain the skills needed to become top chefs and its rewarding for me see them thrive and achieve new personal goals. The first menu at your Edinburgh restaurant reinvents chippie classics, but what’s your go to order at the chippie? It has to be the classic fish supper with salt and vinegar - I’m a Glaswegian Italian man after all!
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NICO SIMEONE CHEF Q&A
Smoked Mackerel Gribiche 200g smoked mackerel 2 shallots 3 eggs 150g capers 150g cornichon 150g parsley 200g mayonnaise
For the asparagus salad 4 asparagus spears 1 quails’ egg
l Boil the eggs for 6 minutes then drop into ice water. Peel and finely dice. Pulse the capers and cornichons in a food processor, then fold through the diced egg. l Finely dice shallots and chop parsley then fold through egg mix. l Remove all bones and
skin from the mackerel. the mackerel with a fork and add it to the rest of the mixture. Season with salt. l Prepare and blanch half of the asparagus spears until just tender, then refresh in ice cold water. Shave the other half raw on a mandolin. l Flake
l Dress with good quality olive oil, and parmesan shavings l Blanch the quails’ egg for two minutes in boiling water, then refresh in ice cold water. l Dress the salad and quails’ egg neatly on the plate with a quenelle of the mackerel gribiche.
Check out our review of Six by Nico on p.56
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443 Duke Street Glasgow, G31 1RY hello@tibobistro.co.uk 0141 550 2050
HALF PRICE MAIN COURSE OFFER ~ Available Evenings Only ~ Sunday - Tuesday all evening Wednesday - Friday before 7pm Saturday before 6.45pm (last booking 6.30pm)
50 WEST REGENT STREET, GLASGOW 0141 331 1655 www.amberregent.com
Tibo Bistro is a family run Scottish bistro which has been the driving force on Duke street over the last 10 years. Tibo has been serving good honest food, using the best local suppliers in Glasgow.
THE WINGED OX BAR & KITCHEN A beautifully restored Grade B listed building which showcases all the original features of what was originally St Luke’s Parish Church. We pride ourself on the quality and service provided here and the space is a perfect setting for a wide range of events.
Scottish Pub of the Year
Scottish Bar & Pub Awards 2017
Saint Luke's & The Winged Ox @ stlukesglasgow
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@ stlukesglasgow www.stlukesglasgow.com
17 Bain Street, G40 2JZ, Glasgow, United Kingdom
01/05/2018 17:38
PERTHSHIRE GLASGOW EAST FOODIES END FOODIES FOCUS
EATS FROM THE EAST Take a tasting tour through Glasgow’s vibrant East End PIZZA EAST 575 Duke Street, G31 1PY www.pizzaeastglasgow.com Pizza East may be in Glasgow, but once you walk through the doors you’ll think you’re in Italy. The hardworking team doesn’t just import their ingredients, the chefs themselves relocated from Naples. Even after all of that effort they still retain the relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere of a traditional Italian pizzeria.
GLASGOW EAST END
TIBO BISTRO 443 Duke Street, G31 1RY www.tibobistro.co.uk Tibo Bistro is a restaurant with charisma and a vibrant local community attached. Regular open mic nights, art exhibitions, and a seasonally changing menu keep the decade old eatery feeling fresh. Vegans will especially appreciate their selection of filling breakfast options but you’d be remiss not to come back at after dark for the intimate vibes and creative specials.
Above (clockwise): Bilson Eleven, Dennistoun Bar-B-Que, St Luke’s, Pizza East, Tibo Bistro
SAINT LUKE’S & THE WINGED OX 17 Bain Street, G40 2JZ www.stlukesglasgow.com With all of the character of Glasgow itself, Saint Lukes & The Winged Ox has been immersed in Glasgow’s East End since they first opened their doors. Purveyors of soul food from grilled cheese to pizza, hosts
DENNISTOUN BAR-B-QUE 585 Duke Street, G31 1PY www.jaybes.co Dennistoun perfectly captures the relaxed spirit of a barbecue but don’t be fooled. With a carefully curated rotation of rare beers imported from the states and buzzworthy dishes (Nutella ribs, anyone?) a lot of work has gone
of impassioned events from hardhitting documentary screenings to the latest local band’s performances and overall community staple, Saint Luke’s is irreplaceable.
into making this place special. BILSON ELEVEN 10 Annfield Place, G31 2XQ www.bilsoneleven.co.uk This delightfully eclectic restaurant serves unique dishes in a 19th century townhouse. From the stained glass windows to the creative dishes brought together with expertly executed classic techniques, what makes this place special is the care and attention that goes into every last detail. Come with an empty stomach and an open mind. foodies 45
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CHOOSE 3 COURSES FR O M THE MEN U DU J O U R WITH A GLASS OF C H A R LES HE IDSI EC K CHAMPAGNE F O R 2 PEO PL E
ONLY £49*
28 QUEEN STREET | EDINBURGH | WWW.SMWS.COM *OFFER VALID EVERY LUNCH TIME & BETWEEN 5-6.30PM TUES-THURS UNTIL THE END OF JUNE.
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WHISKY FOODIES FOCUS
SIP & SAVOUR Say slĂ inte to Scottish Whisky Month with one of our favourite malts R&B DISTILLERS
BENRIACH
FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT
www.benriachdistillery.com Benriach may be daring, but anything from their distillery is guaranteed gold. The bold 21 Year Old Speyside Whisky goes through a unique process, matured in a combination of four types of cask: bourbon barrels, virgin oak, Pedro Ximenez and red wine casks. The resulting flavour is balanced and robust, with rich notes of candied peel and vanilla.
www.rbdistillers.com R&B Distillers get back to their roots with their single grain Borders whisky, harking back to their Victorian heritage in the region. Lowlandstyle in every way, its ideal for those looking for a lighter dram. Sweet and nutty on the nose with sherry flavours, this makes an excellent partner to dark chocolate desserts.
TAMDHU
ISLE OF ARRAN
www.tamdhu.com The Tamdhu 10 Year Old lantern tin makes for a dramatic gift, from the exquisite presentation box to the lucent amber glow of the bottle. Matured in sherry oak casks, rich toffee notes make this a warming malt, ideal for sipping on after dinner. Look out for notes of sugared almond and a touch of fresh fruit on the finish.
www.arranwhisky.com This vibrant whisky is named for the Machrie Moor and evokes the same rugged atmosphere, with the taste of crisp apples complimenting a strong, smoky finish. Isle of Arran Distillery has been producing the same refined blend each autumn for eight years in small batches to preserve the delicious, honey coloured dram that is coming to become a staple of Scotch whisky. foodies 47
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GIN FOODIES
SPRINGBANK
WEMYSS
www.springbankwhisky.com The well-established Springbank 18-year-old is a favourite amongst experienced whisky connoisseurs. A multiple award-winner, it’s a gutsy single malt with spicy notes balanced by rich toasted banana on the nose, complete with a uniquely oily mouthfeel. It’s a classic worth revisiting again and again to rediscover new notes in each dram.
www.wemyssmalts.com Vanilla Burst may be new on the whisky scene, but the Wemyss family has been in the industry since the turn of the 19th century. This blend of two single malt whiskies from the Speyside region highlights the classic vanilla flavour found in bourbon casks, along with hints of baked apples, caramel, and Custard Creams. An intriguing and unique blend for those looking to try something new.
MAKES THE IDEAL GIFT FOR WHISKY LOVERS
BLADNOCH www.bladnoch.com Pure Scot celebrates Bladnoch’s legacy of success by combining their traditional classics to create a new favourite. Bladnoch’s signature single malt, robust Highland and Islay malts, aged Speyside, and other select grains whiskies come together in a vibrant, fragrant blend that’s sure to impress.
BALBLAIR www.balblair.com Balblair’s 2000 vintage will have discerning whisky collectors queuing up, but is also a deliciously accessible option to more casual drinkers. Hand selected by distillery manager John MacDonald, this amber malt has an initial spicy hit but goes on to sing of pineapple, bitter orange peel, and honey. foodies 49
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EDINBURGH PERTHSHIRE HAYMARKET FOODIES FOODIES FOCUS FOCUS
HAYMARKET HANGOUTS Getting to and from Haymarket is a piece of cake with the Edinburgh Trams - and with these tasty offerings nearby, you might want to arrive a little early for your train MILK 232 Morrison Street, EH3 8EA www.cafemilk.co.uk Milk’s understated, minimal look makes it the perfect destination to catch up with a loved one over a slice of cake, all created with quality local ingredients. Plus, be sure to try their fabulously unique breakfasts, featuring the likes of mushroom and rosemary burritos and homemade bircher muesli.
First Coast
MAIALINO 34 William Street, EH3 7LJ www.maialino.co.uk Claudio sacrificed Tuscany’s sun to bring a taste of Italy to Edinburgh, so you know he has a menu to believe in. Named for the pigs he so cherishes, you’ll find quality cured meat aplenty in Maialino. Try your choice of meat in one of his delectable sandwiches.
C
Milk
Maialino
MIA ITALIAN KITCHEN 96 Dalry Road, EH11 Jolly Botanist 2AX www.miarestaurant.co.uk THE JOLLY BOTANIST Family-run and 256-260 Morrison friendly, this FIRST COAST Mia Italian Kitchen Street, EH3 8DT Italian eatery is 97-101 Dalry Road, EH11 2AB www.thejollybotanist.co.uk a local favourite, serving up great www.first-coast.co.uk Scotland is all about gin right now food packed with bold flavours This welcoming neighbourhood and The Jolly Botanist has their and delicious fresh ingredients. bistro may seem unassuming finger on the pulse of the capital. While you’re enjoying your linguine from the outside but the attention Their quirky yet elegant dining room gamberoni, risotto, or thin and crispy to detail put into each dish cannot will delight, but it’s the constantly pizza, don’t neglect the carefully escape notice. A small fireplace changing gins that will draw you curated wine menu sourcing delicious and eclectic wood tables unify the back again and again. Try their local wines from Turin to Palermo, with an cosy collection of rooms with a Foodies advert 141x25.5.pdf 2 26/04/2018 12:28 take on gin and juice for a cocktail excellent range of reasonably priced warm glow that’s perfect for dateworth savouring. options. night dining.
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FOODIES INTERIORS
BRING IN THE OLD
& NEW
Update your kitchen with cosy farmhouse vibes and cool modern style
A
t first glace, farmhouse and modern home styles may not seem to have much in common. But dig a little deeper, and you’ll quickly discover why the two are happy bedfellows. There’s a devotion to craft, to simple beauty, to pieces that have value and meaning. Combined, modern and farmhouse styles offer enviable approachability that helps today’s busy families create a welcoming respite for a
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‘The kitchen is the hardest-working room in the house’
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In the
BEST of
SPIRITS Since 1886 Award-winning Franklin & Sons Ginger Beer has been brewed with malted barley to ensure the deepest flavour and aroma of ginger is delivered. The addition of a squeeze of lemon introduces subtle citrus notes, leaving a refreshing finish. Serve this vibrant mixer with your favourite premium rum over large cubed ice to enhance the rich and complex flavours of your spirit.
Available in Sainsbury’s
@Franklinandsons
Experience Worth Sharing
www.franklinandsons.co.uk for our full range of Tonics, Mixers, and Soft Drinks p50.indd 50
02/03/2018 16:09
INTERIORS FOODIES
weekend at home. The kitchen is the hardest-working room in the house. It should function as a well-appointed workshop for life’s culinary masterpieces – and everyday messes – as well as a place to catch up over a cup of tea or show your love with a quick sandwich. Incorporate a mindful mix of key features like cabinetry, counters, and appliances for a space that’s efficient, inspiring, and inviting. Farmhouse cupboards tend to be a bit fussier – they may have raised or recessed panels, or come in beadboard or distressed woods. More modern options include flat or slab cabinets. A perfect compromise may be the Shaker style – beloved for its plain lines that read traditional or contemporary. You can also modernize or rustic up cabinets with cleverly chosen knobs and pulls. Pick a workhorse surface that will last years; in the farmhouse camp, white quartz is nearly indestructible and helps brighten wood common in traditional kitchens. Don’t forget the backsplash – it’s a great place to make a statement
‘Embrace a full blending of the two styles’
with tile or other materials. Also, be sure to seek stylish appliances. You’ll look at that stove and fridge every day, so make sure they hew to your décor scheme. Go big and bold with a freestanding electric stove in a charming old-timey style, or install burners below the counter and an oven in a discreet drawer so both are practically invisible. Whether you simply want to update a more farmhouse-leaning room, add a touch of softness to contemporarystyled spaces, or embrace a full blending of the two, let these inspirational images guide you. l
Modern Farmhouse Style by Living the Country Life, published by Weldon Owen, £22.50. foodies 55
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Learn more about Chef Patron Nico Simeone, p.42
Time to taste Our top restaurant picks to try this month SIX BY NICO A six course tasting menu that changes every six weeks is what we can expect from Glasgow restaurateur Nico Simeone’s first venture in Edinburgh. Each menu reimagines a nostalgic food memory, and recreates it in Simeone’s signature fine dining style. The current menu theme is “The Chippie”, a playful nod to the nation’s fondness for everything deep fried. The first course, ‘Chips & Cheese’ is a sublime concoction of confit potato, crisp mustardy crumbs and Parmesan espuma, cut through by a rich
curry oil. The second starter is a riff on scampi, featuring wonderfully meaty Scrabster monkfish cheek offset by a tart and vinegary pea and herb ketchup and smooth, sweet bergamot jelly. Nico’s take on a ‘Steak Pie’ is delicious, with tender, pastry-topped Speyside beef shin highlighted by rich caramelised onion. The ‘Fish Supper’ is a complex dish with hearty Shetland cod lifted by delightfully vinegary pickled mussels and crunchy sweet onions. For the star of the show, lids are dramatically lifted off the ‘Smoked Sausage’
dish, exuding tempting applewood smoke. Cleverly constructed, the melt-in-your-mouth Ayrshire pork is encased in impossibly thin, crisp pastry for the perfect combination of textures. The chippie-inspired dessert doesn’t disappoint either, taking inspiration from the infamous deep fried Mars Bar. In this version, it is made even more magical, boasting a dark and creamy salted caramel nougat matched by a rich luxurious orange cream. This is complex, delicious food in a fun, unpretentious eatery and at £28 for 6 courses, it’s tremendous value. 97 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DJ www.sixbynico.co.uk Sue Hitchen
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RESTAURANT REVIEW FOODIES
GATHER BY ZIQUE
CHOP HOUSE BRUNTSFIELD Ask any Edinburgh local where to go for a good ol’ fashioned steak and Chop House is never far from the conversation. For any West Enders for whom the Leith Chop House is too far and the Market Street Chop House is a little bit too “in town”, your red-blooded dreams have been answered. The new Bruntsfield branch is glass-fronted, orange-seated, and boasts all of the industrial chic stylings they have become known for. Of course, what they’re really known for is their first class, beef, dry-aged for 35 days in house and more than worthy of its reputation. Ahead of the main event, we started off with the In Bloom cocktail, a bright, tart drink that paired well with the
fresh, plump oysters and deep-fried crispy shrimp. Then arrived the MVPs. The sirloin had the kind of glorious crust only the open charcoal grill can achieve, a perfect contrast to the ultra tender medium rare meat beneath. In a stroke of pure indulgence (and pure genius), I paired mine with outrageously decadent, outrageously good bone marrow gravy. This is a musthave. Although, my partner’s blue cheese sauce was a pretty close second (my wandering fork can attest to this). Shoestring fries were a little underwhelming, however I can only blame myself - I should have ordered the dripping chips like my heart really desired. To finish, we went for the full cholesterol affront and thoroughly enjoyed a well curated cheeseboard. I’d suggest you get along and treat yourself to the same - you deserve it. 88 Bruntsfield Place Edinburgh, EH10 4HG www.chophousesteak.co.uk Chiara Margiotta
Gather by Zique is like a warm spring day – beautiful, but not too showy. The soft olive-grey hues of the décor ensure an air of sophistication, but this Hyndland Street restaurant is comfortable and oh-so-inviting. We got things started with the Rhubarb 75, a gorgeously refreshing blend of gin, lemon, rhubarb, ginger and vanilla bean. Then, the goats curd gnocchi with sage, lemon and caper butter; the soft, silky texture won us over, while the tang of the goats curd was complemented by the herby flavours. Next was burrata with grilled aubergine. The mild cheese proved delightfully creamy, enhanced by the fresh mint and sweet tomatoes. Combining chickpeas with grilled vegetables, fried chillies and a pine nut salsa, our first main was a delectable flavour explosion. So too was the second. In fact, every mouthful of the puy lentil and deepfried artichoke dish tantalised our taste buds. Finally, rich, melt-in-yourmouth chocolate ganache sitting atop some zesty orange mascarpone was on hand to satisfy our sweet tooth. A chocolate lover’s dream? You bet. Boasting a menu full of fresh, flavourful food Gather by Zique is worthy of so much praise. 70-72 Hyndland St, Glasgow, G11 5PT Morgan Laing
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70+ varieties of fresh organic fruit & veg available without packaging
What’s not to love Vegetarian • Vegan • Fairtrade • Organic Gluten-free
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Open 7 days a week, all year round 37 Broughton Street Edinburgh EH1 3JU | 8 Brougham Street Edinburgh EH3 9JH
Real Foods established 1963. Shipping worldwide since 1975 • Importers, manufacturers & international distributors
the chocolate café 13 Frederick St. EDINBURGH, EH2 2EY 5 Howard St. EDINBURGH, EH3 5JP 241 Sauchiehall St. GLASGOW, G2 3EZ
www.corochocolate.co.uk
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COOK SCHOOLS FOODIES
Detox
LEARN TO FORAGE YOUR OWN INGREDIENTS
DELICIOUSLY Eating healthily doesn’t have to be boring. These cookery courses are here to help you learn to eat well and eat deliciously all at once
EDINBURGH SCHOOL OF FOOD AND WINE www.esfw.com Celebrate sustainability with a vegan cookery course that may just make you a convert. The Edinburgh School of Food and Wine teaches to professional standards, so prepare to be wowed by the adventurous, creative, and completely plantbased menus you’ll master.
EDINBURGH NEW TOWN COOKERY SCHOOL www.entcs.co.uk Demystify nutrition with the Edinburgh New Town Cookery School’s delicious and healthy eating class. Rather than cutting
back, expert chefs will show you how to bring the best flavour out of each ingredient without relying on the salt, fats and sugar that weigh you down. Once you’re savouring the juicy peaches you poached with raspberries and honey you won’t miss artificially flavoured sweets one bit.
NICK NAIRN COOK SCHOOL www.nicknairncookschool.com Embrace Scotland’s island culture. Nick Nairn’s fabulous feast of fish class will give you the confidence to boldly ask for the catch of the day at the fishmongers, safe in the knowledge you can tackle whatever comes your way. You’ll
leave with a toolkit of skills for cooking fish perfectly, from keeping the fillet succulent to achieving the ultimate crispy skin.
MONICA WILDE www.monicawilde.com Discover the hidden treats nature has to offer with a little help from expert forager and herbalist Monica Wilde. Join her on a walk through the wild and learn about the tastes, uses, history and identifying characteristics of forager staples from tasty vegetables to salad leaves, along with some extra information on the medicinal and health benefits of some of these natural gems.
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The perfect setting for your spring break, summer holiday or winter getaway. Life The perfectlandscapes, setting for your winterhospitality, getaway, spring or summer holiday. affirming affirming Highland cosybreak comfort, and good food. Life On the coast of NW Sutherland, 40 miles cosy northcomfort, of Ullapool, driveway leads fromofthe A894, part landscapes, Highland hospitality, and good food. On theincoast NW Sutherland, of the NC500. 40 miles north of Ullapool, driveway leads in from the A894, part of the NC500.
Eddrachilles Hotel is surrounded thebest bestfrom fromthe thesea, sea, Eddrachilles Hotel is surroundedbybyananabundant abundantNW NW Highlands Highlands larder, larder, the mountainsand andcrofts. crofts. We We use ingredients to to create create new new menus menus daily daily and and our our friendly friendly mountains use fresh fresh ingredients service with good wines, local craft beers, and whiskies will enhance your dining experience. service with good wines, local craft beers and whiskies will enhance your dining experience. In winter we offerdinner classictakes favourites whilefrom in our summer season Our 4 course inspiration contemporary Nordic cuisine. Non-residents are also welcome dinner both our tasting menu and set 4-course dinner takeforinspiration but booking in advance is recommended. from contemporary Nordic cuisine.
Eddrachilles Hotel, Badcall Bay by Scourie, Sutherland, IV27 4TH Email: info@eddrachilles.com Telephone: 01971 502080
www.eddrachilles.com
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FOODIES SPA
Foodies
SPAS ✽ NOW BY ONE SPA 8 Conference Square, Edinburgh, EH3 8AN www.onespa.com The Scottish spring might have been low on sunshine, but that doesn’t mean your skin needs to be. NOW by One Spa will have you glowing in just 25 minutes with their Vita Liberata spray tan. Non-toxic and free from chemicals, it’s perfect for even the most sensitive skin.
✽ CRIEFF HYDRO Ferntower Road, Crieff, PH7 3LQ www.crieffhydro.com Relax in Crieff Hydro’s stunning Victoria Spa before enjoying a signature Babor Skinovage bespoke facial. Expert therapists will analyse your skin before tailoring a treatment to suit you perfectly.
Bring out your summer skin early with these detox treaments
✽ PORTAVADIE LOCH FYNE Millhouse, Loch Fyne, PA21 2DA www.portavadie.com Enliven sore limbs with the refreshing powers of lemons, pepper and cyprus with Portavadie’s Decléor anti-fatigue citrus energy boost. In no time at all, you’ll be infused with newfound zest and a calm, focused mind.
✽ WESTFIELD COMPLEMENTARY HEALTH 97 Loudoun Street, Mauchline, KA5 5BQ www.westfieldcomplementaryhealth.co.uk Pamper overworked fingers with Westfield’s Fiji Paradise Manicure, featuring a coconut milk hand bath, gentle exfoliation and warming wrap followed by hand massage and your choice of polish.
✽ DUNKELD HOUSE HOTEL Blairgowrie Road, Dunkeld, PH8 0HX www.dunkeldhousehotel.co.uk Sooth your skin with Dunkeld
House Hotel’s ishga seaweed facial. Designed to repair sun damage, reduce the appearance of fine lines,
and boost collagen, this allnatural facial will leave you feeling refreshed, revived, and protected from the elements. foodies 61
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E DIN BURGH CORN EXCHANG E T H URSDAY 27 T H SEPTEMBER 2018
THE NATIONAL CELEBRATION FOR THE BUSINESS OF BEER B OOK YOU R TABLE NOW
COCKTAILS FOODIES
A toast to us In honour of the 100th issue of Foodies Magazine, The Garden Edinburgh have created this fabulous violet-infused spring cocktail just for us
Foodies 100 25ml Ogilvy vodka 15ml Briottet Liqueur de Violette 2.5ml grenadine 10ml sugar syrup 20ml lime juice 20ml grapefruit juice â—? Add all the ingredients to a
shaker and shake with ice. â—? Pour into a martini glass and
garnish with a mint leaf.
Photo: Lucy Paul
By Tom Pollitt at The Garden www.gardenedinburgh.com
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TRIED AND TREW RESTAURANTS AND BARS WORDS JONATHAN TREW
TOP TIP
Foodies
MAY
HIGHLIGHTS WINE THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...
Need a dinner party wine? Try these, all for less than £15
By Wemyss Malts
The Nectar Cobbler 35ml Wemyss Nectar Grove 25ml plum liqueur Lemon wedge Orange wedge 1/2 ripe plum 2 all spice berries l Muddle the fruit with the spirits, then shake in a cocktail shaker. l Double strain into a highball filled with crushed ice. Garnish with mint, nectarine, and a cinnamon stick.
LAUNCHING THIS MONTH RANSACKED BLACK OVEN EDINBURGH The name may sound like a culinary crime scene but new Persian street food restaurant Ransacked Black Oven are making all the right noises. We’re talking wood-fired, sourdough bread wraps, savoury kebabs, and tear and share platters. Alongside more familiar offerings, these can all be washed down with intriguing punches and botanical slushes. www.ransackedblackoven.co.uk
GATHER BY ZIQUE GLASGOW Cafezique and its assorted offshoots usually seem to have the right idea and the new Gather by Zique looks no different. Diners can look
Enjoy first class cocktails at The Finnieston before heading along to see Jay Rayner at The Mitchell Theatre, 11th May.
forward to Scotland’s excellent natural ingredients being given thoughtful prep along with timehonoured, European techniques. This means a menu that might pair sea bream carpaccio with orange, pistachio or watercress and grilled spring onions with romesco and smashed Jerusalem artichokes. www.fb.com/gatherbyzique
BURGER & BUN GLASGOW Food fashions come and go but our appetite for a burger stays steady. The menu here offers several permutations on the burger along with wings, ribs, dogs and even the occasional veggie offering. The drinks include hard shakes - all the dairy goodness of milk corrupted with a decadent splash of booze. www.burgerandbun.co.uk
The Ned Pinot Grigio 2017, New Zealand Waitrose, £9.49 A nose of pear drop, white blossom and nectarine leading to a rich and soft palate, slightly tropical, with a smooth finish. This tastes great paired with fresh salads and creamy pastas. Bird’s Eye View Shiraz-Viognier 2016, Australia Iceland, £5.99 Aromas of dark berry fruits, black pepper, and spice, this rich full flavoured wine is outstanding with grilled lamb, burgers, or beef stew. De Bortoli La Boheme Act Two Pinot Noir Rose 2017, Australia Roberts & Speight, £12.99 Pale salmon pink in colour, with a crisp palate and creamy brioche aroma with subtle strawberry and hints of marzipan.
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FOODIES FOCUS OUT AND ABOUT
Looking to feature? Contact press@foodiesfestival.com
Photo: Lucy Paul
Out & about
FOODIES MAGAZINE 100TH ISSUE ANNIVERSARY PARTY Local VIPS help us celebrate our 100th issue
GASTROFEST Guests take on the foodie side of the Edinburgh International Science Festival
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s e l u r o n , h c t o No Sc n! - go e k o C h it w k in r D
o
Our clear malt spirit has never seen the inside of a cask, so there are NO RULES on how to enjoy it... ..but yae can follow us on Instagram for #cocktail inspiration @rascally_liquor_off icial Order online at
www.rascallyliquor.com
Enjoyed and endorsed by these Southern folks in 2018 067_.indd 67
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ADDRESS
5 Hamilton Place Stockbridge Edinburgh EH3 5BA B O O K AT TA B L E
0131 315 4335 O P E N 7 DAYS 12PM - 11PM
W E ’ R E
B A C K
Bringing you delectably fresh, contemporary Indian cuisine in luxurious and chic surroundings. BOOK ONLINE
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