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VOL. 49 issue 7 july 2013

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A tribute to AndrĂŠ page 41

Very hot reds in the Bay page 59

Lauraine Jacobs

on global food trends page 14

Now you can cater for everyone! page 11

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Volume 49, Issue 7 EDITOR – hospitality/thirst Jes Magill Ph 027 537 4017 Email editor@hospitalitymag.co.nz ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER – hospitality Wendy Steele Ph 021 300 473 Email wendy.steele@mediaweb.co.nz ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER – thirst Kim McIntosh Ph 021 419 468 Email kimm@mediaweb.co.nz DESIGNER Kim Batley Email kimb@mediaweb.co.nz Contributing Writers Linda Bennett Christchurch Sue Fea Queenstown Kathy Ombler Wellington Don Kavanagh Keith Stewart Daniel Schuster Geoff Griggs Industry contributors Marisa Bidois, Bruce Robertson, SPANZ, Cameron Douglas, Vic Williams and Dean Minchington.

GROUP SALES managER Lisa Morris 09 529 3000 ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATOR Pip Maclean Ph 09 529 3000 Email ads@mediaweb.co.nz ACCOUNTANT Pam King Ph 09 300 2670 Email pamk@mediaweb.co.nz CREDIT CONTROL Gladys Hooker Ph 09 300 2672 Email gladys@mediaweb.co.nz CIRCULATION/SUBSCRIPTIONS Sue McDiarmid Rates: $80 for 12 issues plus Directory incl GST and post.

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Celebrating standards It was a sad day for the hospitality industry last month when André Teissonnière passed away in New Plymouth. He was a much-loved character who certainly left the world a better place for his unstinting commitment to the profession and his passion for excellence.

In tribute to André, we’ve rerun a delightful interview that was published in 2008, on page 41. Back then, André was pretty critical of service standards in New Zealand. As he said, he liked to run a tight ship. He was born, bred and trained in France, though – arguably the gastronomical benchmark for the industry globally. Although given the current French movement to define the word restaurant (see our news brief on page 4), that looks debatable.

We like to think André’s views on service would have softened a little, because the industry certainly has come of age. A sense of professionalism and undoubted skill has become apparent – both front-of-house and in the kitchen.

Hospitality also features the latest international industry trends on page 6. Nicola Richards (from Monsoon Poon and SPANZ), attended the National Restaurant Association conference in Chicago – the must-go -to event for the really serious hospitality professional.

Some people are just plain adventurous, like Sherry Shelton, who shifted from Auckland to Bluff, bought the old Foveaux Hotel and has given it a facelift; that story’s on page 12. Food writer and author Lauraine Jacobs shares her views on global food trends on page 14. (We have her new book, Everlasting Feast, to give away too; see details below.) Then on page 22, we take a look inside Whangarei’s hot Red Pizza restaurant in Whangarei, which boasts 1m long pizzas.

If you know someone who questions hospitality as We have a copy of a real career, ask them to read Jamie Wildbore’s Lauraine Jacob’s truly story on page 23. We may have lost André, beautiful memoir and cook but he’d be delighted there are plenty of slick, book Everlasting Feast to give young hospitality professionals out there, keen away. To go in the draw, email to be the new arbiters of standards. us at editor@hospitalitymag.co.nz Reading works up a Thirst, and in these before noon on Thursday pages this month we feature arguably the best August 1, and please include ever vintage in Hawke’s Bay, plus panel tastings your contact number. on pinot gris, blended scotch and cider. Cheers!

PUBLISHEd By

PUBLISHER Toni Myers Mediaweb 115 Newton Road, Eden Terrace, Auckland 1010 PO Box 5544, Wellesley St, Auckland 1141 Phone +64 9 529 3000 Fax +64 9 529 3001 Email enquiries@mediaweb.co.nz www.mediaweb.co.nz Original material published in this magazine is copyright, but may be reproduced providing permission is obtained from the editor and acknowledgment given to Hospitality magazine.

Opinions expressed are those of the authors and may not necessarily be those of Mediaweb. We welcome material from commercial sources for publication but cannot guarantee that it will be used as submitted.

Jes Magill, editor

Contents

July 2013 Image courtesy Jackie Gay Still Vision Photography

News

22

41

6 Nicola Richards at the NRA, Chicago 8 Who’s judging? The Nestlé Toque d’Or line up 12 Revamped, reloved Foveaux Hotel 14 Lauraine Jacobs on global trends 18 Northern Lights – Latest hospo stars 19 Capital Comment – Who’s doing what 20 Southern Starters – Who’s game 22 Love in a hot climate – Red Pizzeria in Whangarei 23 Stepping up – Jamie Wildbore from Joe’s Garage steps forward 24 Time to eat insects?

25 Chef profile: Zebh Carr, The Apothecary Eatery, Howick

Features

28 Hospitality New Zealand’s Preferred Partners Programme 41 A tribute to André Teissonnière

18 Industry views

44 Bruce Robertson ponders future leaders, and ServiceIQ goes global 45 Cameron Douglas feeling the love between food & wine, Restaurant Association says go online 46 Vic Williams has reservations, and Poni Sula mixes it up for SPANZ

Relaxation

48 Books to savour – and books to win

Contents

68

59

51 New and News 55 Q&A – Jacqui Clarke 56 The Panel – Going on a blender – Blended scotch

29

59 Feature – The Best of the Bay; Don Kavanagh takes a look at why the Hawke's Bay is so hot.

62 The Panel – The perfect pear – Pinot Gris 66 The Panel – What a difference a decade makes – Cider 68 Pressing Matters – Opinion; on the bullshit of wine tasting 69 Wine Pioneers – Hay Paddock Syrah

On the cover Sealord launches New Zealand Hoki Fillets in a glutenfree crumb.

70 The Business – The new licensing law affects YOU 72 Brew – Geoff Griggs on beer

Snapshots

Save the date and celebrate: Sunday August 4 is this year’s Selaks NZ Roast Day. The initiative encourages people to stay in and cook their own rendition of the Kiwi classic for friends and family or dine out in restaurants that have embraced the concept. In a big year for Selaks – celebrating 79 years of winemaking history – the theme for this year’s Roast Day is an international one, and Roast Day Brett Fullerton (Selaks Head Winemaker) and ambassador Nici Nici Wickes (Selaks NZ Roast Day Ambassador) Wickes has developed four international recipes for the everyday cook. They’re available on Selaks’ website, which also features an eCookbook for free download, where recipes of previous Selaks ambassadors, Jonny Schwass, Julie Biuso and Paul Jobin are also available. www.selaks.co.nz/roastday

French politicians and the restaurant union, Synhorcat, are proposing to establish a legal definition for the term ‘restaurant’ in France that will require establishments to prepare and cook their food on-site in their own kitchens. Synhorcat president Didier Chenet said on television, “When they walk into a restaurant, customers don’t know whether their meal was just reheated, or lovingly cooked by a whole kitchen staff.

With this label, now they’ll know.” The move comes following doubt about the ability of France to maintain its global position as a leader in hospitality, with many establishments now buying in pre-pared meals.

Recent research shows as many as 31% of French restaurants currently out-source pre-prepared menu items. There are exceptions – ice cream, bread, patisserie and charcuterie, all of which are traditionally made off-site in France.

‘Urban bellhops’ are gaining notoriety overseas by tapping into the Airbnb customer base and offering a check-in service for those hosting tourists. For those who open up their property as accommodation for travelers while they’re away or are too busy to meet their guests, San Francisco-based Urban Bellhop has a team of professional rental hosts who can act as a middleman between the two parties. Hosts can register their property with Urban Bellhop and allow them to securely keep a spare key on their file. Or when they are unable to greet their guests, homeowners can get the company to liaise with visitors, check them into the house and help them feel at home. Website: www.urbanbellhop.com Contact: www. urbanbellhop.com/contact

4 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

At this year’s February carnival in Rio de Janeiro, beer cans were recycled in exchange for train rides.

Revellers were encouraged to hold on to their cans, rather than discard them. When commuters arrived at the train station, a turnstile fitted with a barcode reader gave access to passengers who scanned their empty beer can and deposited it in the bin.

The collected rubbish was then donated to a recycling NGO. Around 1000 users per hour were clocked on the trains – 86% higher than usual traffic – and the number of drink driving incidents in one evening dropped to 43%.

Website: www.almapbbdo. com.br Contact: almap@almapbbdo. com.br

An apology to Tickety-Boo Liquor. In last month’s edition of Hospitality magazine, the Lewisham Award winners were featured. Unfortunately, the listing of Tickety-Boo Liquor winning Outstanding Supplier for 2013 was inadvertently omitted – our sincere apologies. It was a great night for the independent liquor supplier, with Jacqui Clarke also winning Outstanding Sales Representative – for the second time. Turn to Thirst, pg 57 for Jacqui’s interview with Don Kavanagh.

News

6 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

News

Exciting, daunting

& energising

The 94th Annual National Restaurant Association Show was held in May at McCormick Place in Chicago. With 2000 exhibitors, education sessions, a World Culinary Showcase, Innovation Awards, a technology pavilion and thousands of products & services on show – for Nicola Richards from Monsoon Poon in Auckland and chairman of SPANZ (Service Professionals Association of New Zealand), this was an exciting show to attend. In her own words, Nicola shares her findings and inspirations with Hospitality magazine.

The Innovation Awards for F&B, Kitchen and Operator were a great reflection of trends; increased business efficiency and consumer expectation. Notable products displayed strengths in sustainability, food safety, health and technology, and kitchen equipment innovations had a consistent theme of efficiency and waste reduction. A Hobart hightemperature washer that recycled hot water vapour to preheat incoming cold water and thus lower energy consumption was just one of the award recipients.

The technology pavilion was a showcase of mobile apps for restaurants, iPad menus including interactive tablets which were able to customise wine pairings and offer nutritional information, and a number of wait list systems that integrated with both tills and database information. Companies providing subscribed services for managing all of your social media requirements were also a main feature.

Food products were incredibly

varied – from fast-food flavourings to a huge variety of ready-made desserts. New this year was the ‘Alternative Bitestyle’ section which offered a huge array of products for dietary, needs – gluten free, allergies etc. Chicago natives love their hot dogs so this was a great opportunity for a ‘morning after’ cure!

The Culinary Showcase gave delegates the opportunity to watch many well known chefs at work – Cat Cora (Iron Chef), Rick Bayless (Frontera), Anne Burrel (Food Network), Homaro Cantu (moto and iNG) and Anthony Bourdain, to name a few. Also worth a visit were the education sessions where seminars covered topics of marketing, sustainability, technology, HR, menu trends, product development and more.

Considering the size of the industry in the USA it was no surprise to see many seminars on how and when to franchise your business. The franchise section of the show featured a number of ‘home-style’ and retro-themed

food businesses, along with the burger and fast food options.

Another sign of the times was the fantastic array of options for connectivity with the NRA show – Pinterest, Linkedin, Twitter, Facebook, Vimeo, YouTube, Instagram and of course a blog, were all of the ways you could follow and be involved in this event.

The Chicago restaurant scene is thriving and exciting. Of course, the upmarket steak restaurants remain strong but the main trends in dining are of a casual, buzzy, ‘grazing’ style of eating. Service is confident and assured; front of house staff truly know their stuff and display great ability in both running their section and maintaining rapport with their guests. A warm welcome and a server really engaging with their guests make such a lasting impression.

We returned energised, motivated, excited and educated, and I highly recommend the NRA and Chicago as a fantastic reward for yourself and your business. july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 7

News

Stellar

judging panel The judges have been announced for this year’s top student culinary competition – Nestlé Toque d’Or – and the line-up includes some impressive new faces plus several returning personalities.

New to the judging panel this year are Juan Balsani, Glen Curphey, Birgit Ehlers-Hoeps, Steven Green, Del Griffin, Paul Jobin, Claire Nickel, Nancye Pirini, Geoff Scott, Tony Smith and Kerry Tyack.

Leading the team will be Christchurch chef and entrepreneur Darren Wright who returns to the competition floor as chief judge for the second year running. Organiser of this year’s Nestlé Toque d’Or competition - President of the NZCA and Operations Manager of The Flying Burrito Brothers, Anita Sarginson – says she’s delighted with the line-up of judges.

“Collectively, the team brings a wealth of experience in the hospitality industry, gained both locally and internationally,” Sarginson says. “Many of them have achieved successes at international culinary competitions, currently hold a range of judges’ qualifications and have been awarded for their achievements in their particular fields of expertise.”

She said it was also wonderful to see such highly experienced and well-regarded professionals such as Paul Jobin, Geoff Scott and Kerry Tyack all keen to

8 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

Geoff Scott, Vinnies Restaurant, Auckland.

support New Zealand’s young up-and-coming hospitality students.

“They, along with the rest of the panel, will bring a depth and level of experience to the judging process that will help determine this year’s winning team and provide valuable input and feedback to the competing students. To have gained their involvement, given their busy schedules and work commitments, demonstrates how committed they all are to helping support the next generation of culinary stars.”

Sarginson says with such a heavy contingent of culinary experts on this year’s panel, students would need to ensure that they are operating at ‘full capacity’ when they step out onto the competition floor. “When the clock starts ticking, there’ll be no room for error and any mistake that is made won’t go unnoticed.

“The pressure will most certainly be on but that’s what makes competing in this event such a dynamic and exciting opportunity for the students involved.”

This year’s Nestlè Toque d’Or competition will take place on Monday 19 August at the ASB Auckland Showgrounds.

Nestlé Professional is the main sponsor of the event. Other sponsors include Beef + Lamb New Zealand, Akaroa Salmon, vegetables.co.nz and House of Knives.

This year’s full panel of judges includes Juan Balsani, pastry chef from The Grove Restaurant, Auckland; Glen Curphey, executive chef, Brentwood Hotel, Wellington; MIT Hospitality lecturer Birgit EhlersHoeps; Steven Green, assistant functions manager, at The Wellington Club; MIT senior lecturer, Gastronomy, Del Griffin; Richard Hingston, kitchen manager Christchurch Casino; Paul Jobin, executive chef Restaurants, SkyCity, Auckland; Claire Nickel, Vidal Vinery Restaurant, Hastings; Nancye Pirini, executive chef, Jet Park Auckland Airport Hotel; Janine Quaid, managing director, Renard Group Limited; Phillip Russell, operations manager, Compass Group NZ; Anita Sarginson, operations manager, Flying Burrito Brothers, Wellington; Geoff Scott, chef patron, Vinnies

by Geoff Scott, Auckland; Tony Smith, executive chef, Barworks Hospitality; John Snowball, food and beverage manager, Compass Group Forsyth Barr Stadium; Bjorn Svensson, owner, Criollo Chocolates and Desserts, Auckland; Mark Sycamore, Tequila Mockingbird Restaurant and Bar, Christchurch; Kerry Tyack, culinary writer and commentator, Auckland and Darren Wright, Chillingworth Road owner and chef, Christchurch.

South Island Hospitality Show

Proud He sailed from Scotland decades ago and in 1942 began what has become one of New Zealand’s most enduring bakery legends.

Initially Harold Cockburn ran a thriving bakery and confectionery shop in Queen Street, Masterton.

Then, in 1962, when his bakery had grown to be the largest in the city, Harold moved to a new purposebuilt bakery which allowed him to produce 800 loaves an hour.

Over the following 10 years his company Breadcraft continued its evolutionary path: the first in the region to produce sliced packaged bread, a market leader in the Wairarapa and, in 1972 under the leadership of Harold’s son Bob, expansion again to new premises.

A third evolution of the company came in 1991, making Breadcraft New Zealand’s most advanced baking plant.

In 2003, third generation family member John Cockburn took over the business. Today, 70 years on from his grandfather’s early beginnings, Breadcraft employs over 80 staff and produces a range of artisan breads, along with flat breads, fruit puddings and cakes.

At the South Island Hospitality Show the company is showcasing its popular Cottage Lane authentic artisan bread range. It features bàtards, boules, baguettes, buns and rolls in sourdough, grains, rustic French, garlic, cheese, olive…along with ciabatta from an ancient Italian recipe and a pugliese (a softer-crust loaf 10 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

Artisan Heritage perfect for dipping). The breads are all crusty, naturally fermented (over three days), with no additives or preservatives.

John Cockburn’s wife Julie-Anne, Breadcraft’s accountant, says the artisan range has proven a huge hit with customers looking for quality and authenticity in their bread. “It’s the best bread in the country,” says Julie-Ann, “We hear particularly from a lot of European people in New Zealand: they send us emails and letters saying `At last, we’ve found an authentic European bread we can buy every day’.

“We use a traditional fermentation process, a sourdough that we feed every day with flour and water and that gives a real flavour to the bread.

“The range is par-baked which

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makes it perfect for the hospitality industry,” she says. “It means not having to stress with your bread order as you can keep it in the freezer and pull it out when needed and bake it fresh.”

New lines soon to be added include a Caraway & Rye loaf and a cereal boule (sometimes called a Cobb loaf) with specialist grains and honey in it,” explains Julie-Anne.

In terms of flatbreads, Breadcraft supplies a range of pita, tortillas, wraps, panini and turkish breads.

Also popular nationwide are their rich Cockburn’s fruit cakes and puddings. “Our Christmas pudding is 65% fruit,” says Julie-Anne.

The strong family heritage of Breadcraft is reflected not only through the ownership line, but also through the employees.

“We’ve got so many long-term employees,” says Julie-Anne, “Sons and daughters of people who have worked for us for years.”

While she says her children are currently too young to start in the family business, her son does do some holiday work…“which is how John started working here”.

What’s certain is the strong craft heritage from Scotsman Harold Cockburn – combined with canny foresight about developing consumer tastes and changing industry trends – will see Breadcraft thrive for decades to come.

Breadcraft will be at Stand Four at the South Island Hospitality Show.

News

Bluff's Foveaux Hotel has a makeover and a new sense of purpose.

Southern Belle shines again The Southland coastal town of Riverton is becoming known as the new ‘Riviera of the South’ and an American concert organist is hoping the home of the legendary Bluff oyster will be next. Sue Fea meets with Sherry Shelton and follows the transformation of an iconic local building and the new owner’s hopes for its future.

New Zealand’s southernmost seaport, Bluff may have been the butt of many a joke for its weather, but even the most sissy Aucklanders are known to don parka and polar fleece to head south for its oysters and seafood.

Retired concert musician and former Auckland B & B operator Sherry Shelton has taken a punt on the port’s old Foveaux Hotel, which she purchased last year.

Built in 1937, the hotel was renowned for its Captain’s Retreat seafood restaurant, drawing diners from far and wide in its heyday, but the restaurant closed 20 to

30 years ago and the hotel operated as a B & B until two years ago.

Shelton was attracted to the building’s outstanding art deco features, furnishings and its history. This year, she’s spent thousands of dollars on an upgrade including a new ventilation shaft, appliances, bedroom furniture and a grand piano for live performances.

The old manager’s suite has been converted into two guest rooms and a guest lounge, and the nine-room property has been redecorated. Outdoor café tables will appear come summer time.

“I needed something to do and this old hotel was just sitting there, so I decided to invest,” Shelton says.

“I’ve employed half a dozen staff. We have a long road ahead to make the hotel viable, but I believe it will be an exciting and worthwhile journey.”

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News

Sherry Shelton entertains guests in the Foveaux Hotel lounge.

based in Florida for 16 years, Shelton operated her own music studios in three cities and performed solo concert performances.

This multi-tasking music maestro is no stranger to hospitality, however. She also obtained her sea captain’s licence and operated a 12-metre, sightseeing launch in the Gulf of Mexico for eight years, serving seafood lunches on board. A music job landed her in Auckland in 1988 where she launched her Cornerstone Music companies.

“The houses I rented in Auckland had to be big to house the musical instruments and were very expensive to maintain, so Cornerstone Lodge B & B came into being to help pay the rent.”

Her music companies hosted many concerts and dinners in the grand old houses, including ballet performances as well as classical and popular music concerts featuring organ, piano and harp.

Bored with Auckland after 26 years, she says the peace and quiet, the coast and rural setting – similar to her childhood home in Ohio – drew her south to supposedly retire.

But she found a new passion-making a success of a gem from yesteryear. The hotel has a warm and gracious ambience from another era and Shelton has big plans once she’s “over the initial hump of making the hotel pay its way.”

Blue cod, oysters and lamb’s fry are already a hit in the newly-launched fine dining restaurant, Captain’s Table. Lunch offerings include famous southern cheese rolls (more commonly known as ‘Southland sushi’), more blue cod and oysters, seafood chowder, hearty bacon and egg pie, pasta salad with bacon and shrimp, chicken or beef.

Cook Sue Dixon, a local Bluffie with top cooks dating back generations in her family, serves up the best hazelnut hot chocolate pudding with caramel sauce, banoffee or lemon lime cheesecake and carrot cake for dessert.

Local duo, The Navigators, is on hand to play during the weekend, with live harp and piano complementing Devonshire teas. Shelton’s also planning to offer classical concerts and packages through her musical connections, using the hotel as a base.

Chairwoman of the National Congress of Organists (NZ) conference being hosted by Invercargill next year, Shelton says her hotel will be an integral part of the event. She also hopes to attract classical, popular and ethnic concert groups down to the Deep South.

“I hope to entice people to Bluff and to the hotel, for something different and interesting to do,” Shelton says. Bluff tours are also on the cards, but for now, her aim is to bring this freshly-loved, art deco dream up to 4-star Qualmark standard. july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 13

News

Global trends In April, food and wine writer Lauraine Jacobs found herself climbing the steep hills behind a waterfront restaurant in the San Francisco region. Jenny Keown finds out why.

She was on a day-long tour to Copita Tequileria y Comida, a new Mexican restaurant in downtown Sausalito, as part of the annual conference of the International Association of Culinary Professionals.

After a demonstration and tasting of several of the dishes with owner Joanne Weir and her executive chef, Gonzalo Rivera, they went to see the restaurant garden, clinging to the hillside.

“They were obsessive about their fresh herbs and unique garden ingredients like special chillies and salad leaves, going up there at least once or twice every day to pick for the restaurant,” says Jacobs.

It was impressive, she says, and part of a growing international trend towards chefs not just cooking with stunning fresh ingredients, but sourcing the produce themselves. In other areas of San Francisco she saw chefs shopping for the produce themselves in their local markets.

“Instead of spending time in the kitchen torturing the ingredients, chefs are sourcing fresh food and talking to the farmers about such things as say, grass-fed lamb and their particular goat herd which is eating grass by the sea.”

Back home, we have Ortolana, the new bistro by the The organic garden ofMexican restaurant Copita Tequileria y Comida in Sausalito, San Francisco.

14 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

News Japanese food. Kazuya, located in Symonds Street in Auckland, which opened in 2012, is a serious fine dining restaurant with European and Japanese influences.”

Mexican is another food we’re eating more of and Mexico restaurant, also at Britomart, is rapidly expanding. Opening in Britomart last year, the Takapuna outlet opened soon after, then another in Sydney, with another outlet opening in Hamilton a few months ago.

Jacobs says Mexican food fever is creeping in to people’s homes too with four websites she knows of that sell Mexican ingredients. She also points out that many of the restaurants she uses as examples of new and exciting food trends are part of restaurant groups.

“If you’re a single restaurant owner, the increasing dominance of restaurant groups is concerning, as it makes it harder to get ahead. SkyCity seems to operate on an unlimited budget and can cherry-pick the best chefs for its restaurants, such as Al Brown, Sean Connelly and Nic Watt.”

The Hip Group, run by owners Jackie Brown and Scott Grant, has a number of cafés and eateries around Auckland, and Pack & Company, based in Auckland, has 20 bars, restaurants and cafés across the country.

Jacobs is the food columnist for the NZ Listener and author of the recently published Everlasting Feast, a food memoir with 100 recipes.

Hip Group at Auckland’s Britomart, cooking with fresh ingredients – pecans, citrus and figs – picked from their own orchards in West Auckland.

“The restaurant doesn’t take bookings and they’re not paying lip service by just having a small vegetable garden. The art of what they’re doing is simplicity on a plate, using stunning ingredients,” says Jacobs.

People are waking up to the fact that we’ve taken fresh food for granted, she says, and we can expect to see a lot more restaurants embracing this trend; “The other big trend to hit the scene is the move towards restaurants having a point of difference to reflect our increasingly multi-cultural society.”

Five years ago you’d be guaranteed a selection of standard European fare at many Ponsonby Road restaurants: pasta, grilled fish, salads, and steak. Fast forward to today and you can find Mark Wallbank’s MooChowChow dishing up Asian fusion dishes and his other restaurant, The Blue Breeze Inn serving Pacific Chinese food.

Vietnamese restaurant Hanoi, situated in Britomart, is bringing in the punters, as is Ebisu, which serves Japanese food. Celebrated chef Al Brown is even exploring how New York-style bagels will go down through his latest venture Best Ugly Bagels, located within the City Works Depot site on Wellesley Street.

For those city workers who are tired of sushi – don’t fear. Jacobs says we’re moving from sushi as the preferred lunch to much more intricate Japanese cooking, like the food served in Industry Zen at Auckland’s Viaduct. Their lunch menu includes Una-Ju (grilled eel), Tempura-Ju (prawns and vegetables), along with favourites such as Shigu-Ju (tempura chicken).

“In general, we’re moving to more sophisticated july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 15

News

A Recipe for Success

You’re invited to the hospitality event of the year – New Zealand’s only trade show for the South Island Hospitality Industry.

The South Island Hospitality Show is a dedicated hospitality exhibition providing catering, restaurant and accommodation industries with the latest products, services and equipment available and is free for those working in the hospitality industry to attend. (*R18) The show is bigger, better and more focussed than ever on helping you find the solutions you need in an environment that is constantly expanding and reinventing itself.

You’ll also meet suppliers delivering the products and services you need to stay at the forefront of the competitive fast-paced world of hospitality.

The South Island Hospitality Show is a trade only event which includes a large trade show, professional events, competitions, seminars, tastings & workshops and demonstrations which are complimentary for registered visitors.

Over 100 exhibitors will showcase the latest trends, technologies, products and services in all areas of the hospitality industry including food, beverages, equipment, furniture, apparel, appliances and technology.

The focus of the trade exhibition area will be on the new and innovative as well as on products and services that can make the lives of hospitality professionals easier and more cost efficient.

Many exhibitors will be offering very special deals, available only at the show.

South Island Hospitality Show is held in association with Kitchen Productions Ltd, Hospitality magazine, The New Zealand Restaurant Association and organised by HAYLEYMEDIA. The South Island Hospitality Show is free to enter for people working in the hospitality industry (R18). Save time and register now online www.sihs.co.nz to receive your entry coupon.

The South Island Hospitality Show - where it's all on show for the industry.

16 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

News The Northern Lights boundary extends way north this month to feature a pop-up close to our hearts. The Waiheke Island Yacht Club has just opened in San Francisco in time for Amercia’s Cup. Located in the historic Pier 29 building, the eatery has an island-vibe and offers a little taste of New Zealand in the heart of the village. The eatery is the brain child of Clooney’s owner Tony Stewart and head chef Des Harris.

(Their latest Auckland project was The Hamptons pop up in the CBD.) Hayden McMillen, formerly TriBeCa, is head chef, with sous chef a San Fran local, Nicholas Patchen (Campton Place, Spruce and Boulevard.)

The restaurant seats 85 with 20 bar and 12 counter seats. There’s a prix-fixe menu, with a focus on quality, regional signature produce such as lamb. Clooney’s bar manager Needham Woodward has created the cocktail list; Moa beer is on site but New Zealand wines aren’t – it’s strictly Napa Valley Wines only for this event.

They're serving our food in San Francisco.

Photo wallygFlickr.

Northern Lights And Everybody’s bistro is now Everybody’s Izakaya, with executive chef at The Commons in Takapuna, Nick Honeyman, now heading Everybody’s kitchen as well.

Honeyman has trained under top Japanese chefs and has just returned from a month in Japan, where the Izakaya – popular after-work eating and drinking establishments – inspired the hospitality company to give the concept its own spin, with a casual style and sharing plates format. Standout dishes include sashimis, tatakis and house-made tofus, with the signature dessert the sakura (cherry blossom) vanilla brulée. French bar manager Rudy Nicholas says the cocktails are “fresh, sharp, but delicate, like Japanese cuisine, and we’re making our own purées, syrups and bitters to add more flavour.”

Executive chef Nick Honeyman tests the flavours on opening night at Everybody's Izakaya.

18 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

Responding to a changing market, Pack & Company has revamped their two flagship venues at Auckland's chic Imperial Building in the CBD. Roxy’s fine dining restaurant now houses the smart, luxurious Roxy bar, lounge and rooftop deck. The first-floor split-level venue offers an upstairs deck and mezzanine, with table service available from 10pm in the plush booths. On the drinks menu are espresso martinis, cocktails, bottled beers, a wide range of whiskeys, local and imported wines, and a selection of top Champagnes including the world’s number one ranked Armand de Brignac Brut Gold.

Roxy's transformation, at the Imperial Building, CBD.

Mikey Newlands, head chef at Bracu Restaurant, Bombay, is bringing his love of great food to town. Joined by his partner, Amanda Rogers who works front-of-house at Sidart, the pair have created Alléchante restaurant – a pop-up dining concept offering five-course degustation dinners in various locations around the city. Their first event, held on July 8 at Landreth & Co in Ponsonby, was an immediate sell out and the duo are planning their next event for spring. The communal dinners start at 6.30pm sharp, with the menu reflecting Mikey’s current seasonal inspirations expressed through impeccable technique, and he’s currently focused on finding modern ways to treat lessfashionable produce from the past.

Mikey Newlands and Amanda www.allechanterestaurant.co.nz Rogers launch Alléchante.

News City hospitality folk celebrated the launch last month of the biggestyet Visa Wellington on a Plate (VWOAP) culinary festival. From August 9 to 25, 113 festival events and 110 DINE Wellington eateries will be serving up zany, creative, affordable food, wines and craft beers, highlighting the region’s provenance.

Those at the launch were also challenged by VWOAP advisory board chair, Rachel Taulelei. “As an industry, Wellington’s hospitality community is the most collegial in the country. Five years of (VWOAP) shows we can work together as an industry to put on a bloody good party for locals and visitors alike. … and it’s about time for more.

“Collectively, we need to start working across other cultural facets of the city. We need to start working in partnership, leveraging the opportunities presented by the Festival of the Arts, the NZ Film Festival, the Jazz Festival, the Comedy Festival, WoW, Positively Wellington Venues, Handmade, the NZSO, NZ Opera, Te Papa and the myriad of others who bring people to the city. “ Watch this space!

Snapped at the launch, held at Prefab café, were (from left) Frank Stoltenberg, event manager and Geoff Naumann, InterContinental Wellington.

The New Zealand Chocolate Festival and ChocDine chocolate degustation dinner are being hosted at the InterContinental Wellington.

Also there were Logan Brown head chef Shaun Clouston and Catherine Cordwell, Zest Food Tours. Congratulations to Zest Food Tours, by the way, for its placing as one of Lonely Planet’s “World’s Top Ten Walking Tours for Foodies”, lining up alongside culinary expertise of Hanoi, Nice, Mexico and more. Cordwell started the now nationwide company in Wellington in 2003.

Capital Comment

Four top city restaurants have partnered with the city’s leading conference venues to showcase their food to conference delegates.

“The chefs have put their signature dishes on our conference menu and entrusted us to replicate them,” says Herwig Lanzerstorfer of Restaurant Associates, in-house caterer for Positively Wellington Venues. Partner restaurants are Boulcott Street Bistro, Martin Bosley’s, Arbitrageur and Monsoon Poon. Pictured working together at an Australasian association executive’s lunch at the Wellington Opera House in May, are Rex Morgan, Boulcott Street Bistro; Tim Davies, Restaurant Associates and Chris Green, Arbitrageur.

Congratulations also to new Chef of the Capital, Olivia Swafford.

The White House Restaurant junior sous chef beat off a tense, close challenge for this year’s crown at the Wellington Culinary Fare in May. Her winning dishes included cured salmon confit and caviar, potato, Otaki carrot, dill and edamame, coffee and Zany Zeus yoghurt (entrée); pan-seared Cervena venison, wild rice, Parkvale mushrooms, beetroot, almond and black garlic (main) and Whittaker’s dark Ghana spiced hot chocolate ganache, pineapple, marscapone, coconut, lio-raspberry and orange sponge (dessert).

July 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 19

News

Christchurch is abuzz with new openings and one creating a stir is Baretta, offering classic Italian cuisine with a Kiwi twist. Owners Melinda and Gregor Ferguson (founders of popular Cartel Bar) and Simon and Emma Scarlett have transformed a St Asaph Street building into a stylish eatery and Peroni destination bar with a 1930s feel.

Clayton Laidlaw (ex Pomeroy’s) is in the kitchen, with Jenna Lee-Tomlinson front of house, Edward Martin (formerly Carlton Country Club) managing the bar, and Jeremy Ferguson – Melinda and Gregor’s son – general manager.

“We’ve really hit the ground running,” says Melinda. “We’ve been so well received – it has given us a real boost.”

Southern Starters Christchurch property investor Anthony Gough has announced further details about his ambitious entertainment precinct to replace The Strip on Oxford Terrace.

The $100 million Melbourne-styled development will include twice as many bars and restaurants as there were in The Strip pre-quakes, as well as a boutique hotel. They’ll sit among retail outlets, offices, laneways, courtyards, roof terraces and car parking in the multi-level proposal. The first stage of the development, which will rebuild the restaurants and bars on the terrace on the banks of the Avon, is set to begin in June this year, with an opening date of October 2014. Watch this space.

Italian cuisine has also returned to the CBD in the form of Venuti at 791 Colombo Street, just off the Kilmore Street corner.

While it’s based in a brand new building, the food on offer will be familiar to Cantabrians who used to visit Portofino in Oxford Terrace, with Michael and his family behind both ventures.

Venuti is open seven nights for dinner, and like any good eatery in the quake-ravaged city, bookings are running hot.

20 . Hospitality/Thirst . July july 2013

Winnie Bagoes is also back in the central city, at 153 Madras Street. It’s “Phase One” with a bar and courtyard and a limited menu but locals are welcoming the return of the iconic pizza restaurant. And chefs Jamie Bennett and Sam Marchant of Taste Events Company (Christchurch Farmers Markets) are behind Passengers + Co, a new eating house and bar at the Airport Business Park.

The bright red beacon of Asian cuisine has reopened in Gloucester Street for the first time since the February 2011 quake forced it to close.

Sampan House owner Yu Ouyang has waited out the two-plus years by opening a store in Greymouth but he’s very excited to be up and running again. The noodle house is close to the recently re-opened Rendezvous Hotel and New Regent Street.

News

Queenstown residents are being invited to join frontline hospitality staff as part of a new initiative, aimed at equipping locals to assist tourists. Queenstown relies heavily on tourism and is positioning itself as a worldclass centre for service excellence with the launch of the Queenstown Ambassador Programme. The scheme for local residents is designed to give friendly, positive information about the area to visitors. Launched by Queenstown Resort College, the programme has input from major Queenstown tourism operators AJ Hackett Bungy, NZSki, Real Journeys, Ngai Tahu Tourism, Ziptrek Ecotours, key local retailers and hospitality operators.

Destination Queenstown and the Queenstown Chamber of Commerce have also been involved. College chief executive Charlie Phillips says participants take a short, $30 course which provides interesting, useful information on Queenstown’s history, culture and offerings. Volunteer ambassadors are then awarded with a recognisable black badge and are available to help tourists and visitors.

From left: Ann Lockhart, Queenstown Chamber of Commerce; Graham Budd, Destination Queenstown and Charlie Phillips and Fiona Boyer from Queenstown Resort College at the launch of the programme.

Left to right; Fiona Morton, Chris Buckley, Shaun Cody, Graeme McDowell, Glen Christianson and Jason Whalley.

Members of the Hospitality NZ Central Otago committee enjoyed the Minus5 Ice Bar experience while in Queenstown for their AGM recently.

While the meeting was held in The Boiler Room, temperatures rapidly plummeted as the committee headed to the ice bar for a cocktail making competition. Hospitality NZ Southern South Island regional manager Fiona Morton said it was a good meeting with plenty of discussion covering changes to the rules surrounding the sale and supply of alcohol, local alcohol policies and immigration issues.

Josh Emett and Chris Scott on the job at Rata.

It was the end of an era for a 150-year-old Dunedin landmark when the popular student pub, The Captain Cook Tavern, aka ‘The Cook’ served its last drinks. There was a rush in the days leading up to the June 14 closure as students soaked up the last of the University pub’s atmosphere. The Cook was the launch-pad for the now successful Cook Brothers Bars company, established by a group of Queenstown-raised Otago University students to take over the lease nine years ago. However, co-owner James Arnott says the old pub just wasn’t making enough money and with their lease and DB’s lease ending last month, it was time to close the doors.

“The overall drinking culture has changed. Students aren’t drinking as much or as often and supermarkets have also had an effect on trade.”

MasterChef judge Josh Emett’s Queenstown restaurant, Rata, has a new head chef. Chris Scott – who owned award-winning Hamilton restaurant Zinc for seven years – has replaced head chef Helen Turnbull. Scott worked in Michelin-star restaurants overseas after winning a scholarship to the UK, as well as The Botanical in Melbourne, named Melbourne’s Restaurant of the Year under his watch. MasterChef New Zealand contestant, 20-year-old Ella Krauts has also scored a job with Emett. He offered the food science student a position after she was eliminated from the final five during a May episode of the TV One show. She’ll start in a junior role later this year when she completes her studies.

july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 21

News

Food

of love

Sandra McLean was practically born in to hospitality. Her parents had the Village Tea Rooms and Café in Turangi and she was serving in the shop from when she was 12. Fast forward to today and she and her husband Craig are the owners of The Red Pizzeria in Whangarei, a restaurant which serves metre long pizzas. Jenny Keown called in for dinner one stormy night recently and discovered what makes the place tick.

The restaurant’s very much a family affair as Sandra’s sons Chase and Gabe, and Craig’s daughter Natalie have worked in the restaurant since it opened. Chase, 22 recently won the New Zealand Stella Artois Draught Masters championship, which celebrates the craftsmanship that goes into serving the perfect Stella Artois.

Sandra and Craig had been together ten years before he proposed to her in the Grand Canyon and she cites that moment and the trip around the US as part of the inspiration to open the restaurant in August 2011.

Craig had owned the Kensington Tavern, with a public bar and lounge bar, for 13 years. While the lounge bar is successful, they could see that something was needed to revitalise the public bar.

“We thought pizza would work really well. It brings a family together.

It’s eating with your hands – it’s tactile and it’s casual,” says McLean.

So the couple set about transforming the public bar in to a restaurant with a pizza and fresh pasta foundation, (catering to New Zealanders expectations of substantial toppings), a varied menu

22 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

and take-aways called Red-to-Go. All toppings are gluten free, making ordering easier for customers with special dietary needs.

Their signature dishes include the metre-long pizza than can comfortably feed six to eight adults, and giant chocolate chip cookies made on the premises for special occasions and boxed with personalised iced messages and fireworks candles.

The restaurant is aimed at groups and women who want to go somewhere sophisticated for a night out, and McLean has used her skills as an interior designer to fit out the restaurant in a retro look.

The development of the restaurant hasn’t been without its challenges.

When the restaurant first opened it offered lunch and evening dining; however people were generally only coming in for special occasion lunches, which McLean puts down to its suburban location. So they cut their lunchtime dining to Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

In order to cook the metre-long pizzas, they had to find ovens at 110 cm wide and design special trays to hold the pizzas in the oven.

McLean believes one of her biggest achievements is to offer metre-long pizza takeaways, given how hard it was to find the right sort of box at the right price.

Inevitably for McLean, who teaches customer service workshops around Northland, customer service is a huge focus of the restaurant and she’s careful to pick good staff and let them know that communication is the key between them and customers.

“We need to realise that we have to be as competitive as overseas hospitality operators,” she says.

The couple is looking to start expanding the business in a couple of years and McLean takes leadership from the McDonalds and Lone Star business expansion models; “You don’t get too fancy and you have a standard recipe that you keep using.

At Lone Star, they haven’t changed the Dixie Chicken for 20 years.”

News

Stepping up Jamie Wildbore, 22, has been working at Joe’s Garage in Tory St, Wellington for more than three years. If anyone was born to hospitality, it’s Jamie. He’s only ever had two jobs – they’ve both been in hospitality – and in each workplace he’s felt inspired to stay and work his way up the professional ladder. Jamie graduated from the ServiceIQ Step Forward programme run through WelTec last year, gaining his National Certificate in Hospitality Operations Supervision, Food & Beverage Strand, Level 4. Promoted to café manager one month ago, Jamie talks with Hospitality about his career choice and what the future holds.

How did you first become involved in the hospitality industry?

When I was at school in New Plymouth, I got a holiday job at Lone Star, cleaning pots and after a couple of years I started working there full-time. I was offered a chef role but that wasn’t my thing. I love the challenge of front of house – meeting new people, and every day is different. When I sat a manager’s certificate at Lone Star, I realised that hospitality was where I wanted to stay. Overall, my job is all about systems and budgets. I think in numbers. Blair [Clement, Joe’s Garage, Tory St owner/general manager] thinks the same way too.

good challenge. I loved it. It especially helped me with managing staff, and coping with the rosters! They’re really challenging over the winter with staff away sick.

What are your plans for the future?

I’m going to stay here. I’ve just bought a house, so I’m not thinking of going anywhere. With every role I like to push myself, I want more challenges every day. What I like about where I work is that it feels very casual but it’s professional at the same time. The staff is young, everyone knows their role, but there’s a fun aspect too. One day I might open my own place but I’m still challenged here for now. I can’t see myself in another career.

What inspired you to enrol in the Step Forward programme?

What advice would you give to others thinking of working in hospitality?

I had already been working at Joe’s for several years – as 3IC and 2IC – but it was getting that experience on paper that motivated me. It was a great course, a really

Go for it. Just be prepared for a lot of hard work, and initially not a lot of return. But if you stick with it, and be loyal, the benefits will flow.

ServiceIQ is the industry training organisation (ITO) for the aviation, museums, tourism, travel, cafés, bars, restaurants, accommodation, food services, quick service restaurants, clubs, retail and wholesale industries.

Service Industry Qualifications

www.ServiceIQ.org.nz july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 23

News

If you’re looking for a wine and huhu bug food match – wine writer Keith Stewart recommends a chardonnay, showing just a hint of oak.

Time for an

By Keith Stewart It’s time to change our attitude to eating insects, not just because they’re good for us nutritionally – nor that they’re the only way our children will get enough to eat in the future – but because we’re denying ourselves some truly sensational flavours that could be up there with whitebait and Bluff oysters in our culinary pantheon.

Consider the prawn; lots of legs, a crunchy carapace, weird bulging eyes and long feelers, they and their cousins the shrimps are no more than marine insects, yet when it comes to eating them we have no problem. Yet offer crisp fried crickets on your menu and customers will gag at the prospect and sales are likely to be lower than the demand for instant coffee.

The oyster, long one of the treasures of culinary followers in every corner of the world, presented its first hungry hunter with a challenge we are all pleased 24 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

insect entrée

fell to somebody other than ourselves in some suitably distant past. And the physical barriers to eating oysters continue to pose insurmountable problems for many, but they remain as gourmet treats.

So why would it be so hard to develop our own entomological cuisine, one in which the longloved huhu grub would form a leading role? It doesn’t seem that long ago when students I went to Primary School with would bring the fat, wriggling bugs in their brown bag lunch carriers. After they had terrified the Pakeha girls with them, they proceeded to devour them with gusto, and for those of us with a modicum of tasting courage, to share.

I can say with authority, then, that the huhu grub is a fine thing indeed. With a taste of luxuriously crushed nuts; part almond and part cashew, and a feral tang and the texture of moist peanut butter.

At their best, quickly sautéed

in butter to a nut-brown, crispskinned finish, they have more to offer in the flavour department than imported frozen prawns, and are easy to raise on aromatic wood stumps.

The opportunity is enormous for any restaurateur who genuinely believes in the future of fine cuisine in a world challenged by its static resources and burgeoning human population.

Then there are grasshoppers, and the larvae of other insects, that managed to avoid appealing to Maori after they ran out of moa as we have already run out of supplies of toheroa, kereru, longfinned eel and numerous other delicacies of our land.

The first restaurant that offers huhu grubs as an entrée should be given a Prime Minister’s award for innovation and commercial courage. It should also be forever favoured by foodies who value culinary leadership.

Chef Profile

Zebh Carr’s culinary journey

Zebh Carr: Keen to introduce diners to new culinary experiences, with The Apothecary’s casual, fine-dining style.

Zebh Carr has worked with some of this country’s best chefs and in the kitchens of his idols overseas. Now running the kitchen at The Apothecary Eatery in Howick, Auckland, he looks back, and shares the venue’s new direction with Jes Magill.

Zebh Carr just had to be a chef. He prepared his first meal, cooked silver beet and a half block of grated cheese, at three years old, and his repertoire expanded rapidly.

He was mostly bored at school but loved intermediate cooking classes, and in the sixth form he enrolled in the Star course at Practical Education, where he attended one half-day a week.

The following year he enrolled in Basic Cookery Level one and two courses at Taranaki Polytechnic. “I loved it. The ‘mother of hospitality’ Caroline Medway-Smith was my front-of-house tutor and she kicked my arse – in a good way. And Dennis Duffy, an ex-army chef was my chef tutor. He was brilliant.”

Zebh worked part-time at the Metropol Restaurant while he was at tech, and then for Kevin Gibson and Karen Grant at Steps Restaurant, where he became sous chef at 20. “It was a great place to be. Kevin was leading the way in food in New Plymouth and he and Karen steered me in the right direction,” says Zebh.

A stint in Melbourne followed, at the popular Lygon Street restaurant, Sale-E-Pepe; an eye-opener for the fresh-faced kid from Taranaki. “It was pretty wild,” he says. “A little bit like Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential, but I learnt fast.”

Back home in 2003 he joined Phill Spathis, Jimmy Gerard and Tony Adcock at Harbourside in Auckland where he loved being part of a team that had such high standards.

Having learnt from some of the best operators in New Zealand, it was time to sharpen his talent overseas. He’d looked up to Peter Gordon for years and attended one of his food demos in Auckland, hoping to score a job at his London restaurant Providores.

“Peter put me on trial at Dine for a day. He said I seemed to cope alright, my personality seemed right, and offered me a twoweek trial.” Leaving for London via the States, he met up with a friend studying at the Culinary Institute of America and attended several classes; “It was totally different training, really intense and regimented and it produced the best of the best.”

Arriving in London, Zebh passed his two-week trial at Providores and stayed on for two years, with Zebh discovering Gordon has one of the best palates around: “He totally understands flavours and was my greatest teacher and mentor. This employment taught me the most, not only food education but becoming a chef, not just a cook.”

Next stop was Canada where he gained more experience with chefs whose work still inspires him today. Most notable was Rob july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 25

Chef Profile Feenie’s self-named fine dining bistro in Vancouver. Feenie was on a roll. He’d won Iron Chef America in 2005 and again Zebh thrived on the big hours and pressures of a fast-paced workplace.

Returning home to New Plymouth, he opened his own restaurant in 2010 called Taste. It leaned towards fine dining, and was next door to Montrose Wine Bar. It was Zebh’s vision to provide meals for the wine bar patrons as well, with dishes complementing the wines on offer – and vice versa – but the timing just wasn’t right for the concept.

Taste was open for nine months but Zebh says the experience was invaluable and he’s brought lessons learnt with him to The Apothercary, which coincidentally, recently opened a wine bar and eatery right next door.

Zebh’s loving it at the popular suburban eatery, “It’s great,” he says. “It’s like everybody’s local.” Specialising in casual dining, tasting plates and pizzas; Zebh and Apothecary owners Ted Waters and Gill O’Brien recently introduced a new casual fine-dining menu to run alongside the existing. The three course menu plus private degustation dinners inspired by modern cooking styles and techniques are being well received by diners.

“We wanted to create a more interactive dining style and using liquid nitrogen to present dishes at the table, such as frozen chocolate mousse, provides great drama for guests.”

All good chefs are curious and Zebh’s always working with new culinary influences and techniques. “I love to make customers something different, something they don’t cook at home. And I want them to be curious too, so I can take them on a culinary journey. Degustation offers that chance to try many courses, with many different flavours and textures.

“Chefs need to be challenged, for their own development and to keep their customers coming back. I’m a perfectionist, so nothing’s ever good enough for me, but that keeps me going. If you’re satisfied, you won’t progress.”

26 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

A current signature dish: goat cheese mousse, baby beetroot, hazelnut and orange soil, beetroot gel with pickled radish and grated fresh truffle.

Things Zebh can’t do without: His Thermomix Target Top 5 Moffat Waldorf, by Moffat Polyscience water circulator and vacpac

Hospitality New Zealand

Delivering Hospitality at its best In today’s challenging business environment, there’s nothing better than feeling part of a community. It’s tough out there and the more passionate, committed people that band together to make the industry a stronger and more vibrant one – the better the economy will be.

28 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

Hospitality New Zealand

Hospitality operators have a myriad of issues they face every day – and that’s on top of dealing with staffing challenges, rising food costs and a lukewarm global economy. Hospitality professionals also have the maze-like tangle of legislation and compliance issues to deal with – and that’s where Hospitality New Zealand really makes a difference.

Through the ongoing support of its valued Preferred Partners, Hospitality New Zealand is able to offer to members business products, services and exclusive offerings that assist them in running their operations effectively.

In this feature, Kathy Ombler talks with some of the Hospitality New Zealand team, as they reveal the strength and effectiveness of the advice, products and services they give to their 2400-plus membership through their Preferred Partners Programme.

With more than one hundred years of history and a constantly growing, changing membership, Hospitality New Zealand continues to evolve to remain relevant.

Kiwi Hospitality, the new on line tool designed to draw customers to member outlets, is a prime and innovative example of this, says HNZ chief executive, Bruce Robertson.

“As an organisation we respect our history; however the Board also works hard to ensure we remain relevant to meeting the needs of the industry today. Everything we do is focused on delivering value to either individual members or the industry at large.

“People are joining us because what we offer is relevant to their

business no matter what particular part of the hospitality industry they’re in. It’s no longer simply about pubs; it’s actively embracing the wider hospitality community – from cafés to restaurants to luxury lodges. Each of those segments gets real value by joining.

“Our latest product will help drive new customers to all our members. This is kiwihospitality.co.nz –a new website designed for smart phones which will help our visitors, both domestic and international, find a bed, or a meal, or a drink wherever they are in New Zealand, from their phone.”

With 2300 members, offering venues from one end of the country to the other covering a diversity of hospitality offerings, this will be one of the most comprehensive New Zealand sites available, says Roberston.

“A lot of the other websites are focused on a single hospitality channel rather than the whole of the industry. Also, we’ll be actively july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 29

Hospitality New Zealand promoting this site to international visitors via a marketing campaign including Kia Ora magazine, AA Directions, the Interislander and Auckland International Airport plus a variety of online marketing.”

Robertson says the site is user-friendly, GPS driven and locationbased so visitors can look for venues wherever they are, or they can search for anywhere they plan to go. “We’ll also be promoting i-SITES as part of Kiwi Hospitality, to offer visitors information about all the other activities they can do wherever they are and, similarly, i-SITES will be promoting Kiwi Hospitality.”

Another feature is the opportunity for consumers to provide a rating, up to five stars, for the experience they’ve had – without the negative connotation of some review sites, he says. “Listing on Kiwi Hospitality is free to members, providing a very cost effective way for them to help market their business. For a further $95/year they can add their own features, such as social media, venue events and online booking engines – that’s a really good investment.”

For some of our members having a web presence is a bit challenging, and this will be the only web presence they have, adds Robertson.

“When the Board first considered this we were thinking about our country pubs and how could we give them some profile. Then we thought if we could do something for the country pubs then we could do it for all our members.

“We also looked to see whether we could use the market dominance we have in terms of the size of the organisation to leverage driving new business to them. With a membership of 2300 we think we’ve got significant scale for this project to both drive business to our members and be very helpful to our visitors. We think it’s a really good, new initiative.”

Bruce Robertson with Andy Cunningham from Fiordland Lodge – winners of the inaugural Hospitality New Zealand Best Environmental, Sustainable and Ethical Practice Award, 2012.

Employment advice

For some members, the employment advice and representation, available free, as part of their membership is reason enough alone to join Hospitality New Zealand.

The organisation’s in-house legal advisor Alyn Higgins, a qualified lawyer (and former hotel chef) says employment is a legal minefield, and obtaining accurate and timely advice can make all the difference. “Quite simply there is often no second chance in employment law. An employer is expected to act appropriately all of the time.”

The employment agreement is the legal foundation on which an employment relationship is based, says Higgins. “Unless a union has negotiated a collective agreement, each employee must have their own. Not having one leaves uncertainty if problems arise.”

He says employment agreements should be tailored to the needs of the employer, setting out clearly the role of the employee and be written in simple, easy-to-understand language.

“There are a number of general requirements that all employment agreements must contain, for example the names of the parties, description of work, pay, place and times of work as well as other terms such as procedures for resolving problems and restructures that may affect the employee. Beyond these inclusions there are many other matters that an employment agreement may address.”

Higgins says an employment agreement also enables the employer to specify any particular requirements to hospitality circumstances.

“Such matters can include whether any compensation shall be payable in the event of redundancy, notice requirements, deductions 30 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

from wages, confidentiality and trial periods. In many cases such terms will not apply unless the employer has a written agreement signed by the employee.”

Employment agreements are also required to be negotiated in good faith. “Briefly this requires providing an intended employee with a copy of the agreement and opportunity to obtain advice on the agreement and raise any issues before the employment commences.

The employer has a duty to respond to any issues raised and if necessary re-negotiate.”

As one example, Higgins says a trial period will probably not apply if the employer cannot show that the employer complied with these steps before they started working. “The best way to show this to potential employees is in a letter of offer that can also summarise the main points of the agreement.”

Hospitality goes a step further – as part of its member employment advisory service the organisation has a range of model employment agreements with accompanying letters along with a wide range of practical information resources on employment topics all written from an industry employer’s perspective.

Examples include managing performance and disciplinary matters, redundancy procedures, employment advice in responding to weather issues, template policies on drugs and alcohol and bullying and harassment as well as the full range of advice in response to the law in respect to public holidays.

Hospitality NZ’s in-house legal adviser also provides tailored advice and representation for members in respect of personal grievances and disputes and can attend mediation and advise on resolution options.

“Taken together these benefits can save a small employer thousands of dollars just on documents and letters alone,” says Higgins.

Hospitality New Zealand

Loyalty Made Easy for NZ business owners

Introducing Loyalty Connect™ the affordable, easy to use loyalty programme for NZ business.

Finally businesses can have their own branded programme, unique to their business and tailored for their customers all for just $25 +GST per week.

Developed by two business owners frustrated with the lack of loyalty programme options available to them and eager to simplify the whole process.

Loyalty Connect™ is a solution which empowers small businesses to keep customers coming back and gain a competitive edge in the market.

In this fast moving and highly competitive world, a loyalty programme provides a powerful advantage.

But for many, this has seemed too expensive, over complicated and too time consuming. Loyalty Connect™ is a game changer and is putting an end to all of that.

Loyalty Connect™ operates over the NZ Eftpos network, so there is no extra software or hardware required. Staff members can be trained in minutes and customers will love using such a modern system.

Businesses will receive 500 branded loyalty cards on sign up and can choose from two great programmes that reward customers instantly with real-time Reward Points.

Loyalty Connect™ is the whole package and small business owners can expect everything they would from a professional loyalty programme but for much less.

Loyalty Connect™ includes the following great features

2. Flexible – Reward your customers based on the dollar value of what they spend or by the number of visits they make to your business.

3. Branded Loyalty Cards - Receive 500 free branded loyalty cards on sign up.

4. DIY Customer Database – The system self builds a customer database for your business so you can contact customers directly and market your business more effectively.

5. Insightful Reports - Will reveal top spenders, frequent customers, and upcoming customer birthdays.

6. Free Cardholder Website - Customers can check their card balance, rewards & redemptions Why wait, you've got nothing to lose and everything to gain - contact the Loyalty Connect™ team at

1. Affordable - Have a branded loyalty programme for your business for just $25 +GST per week.

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Hospitality New Zealand

Help – 24 hours a day

For our members, we’re never more than a phone call away.

From the mundane to the insane; drugged up staff on the late shift or just those little details that keep members awake at night – Chris Hince and his regional manager colleagues have dealt with it on the Hospitality New Zealand 24-hour help line.

“At Hospitality New Zealand we have eight regional managers and one lawyer all dedicated to providing front line service to our members, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. At all times, throughout the day and night, one of us will be assigned to answering calls.” (So perhaps don’t call the help line at 3am if you just want to order stationery, as has happened!) Chris says on-call issues he’s dealt with range from the mundane to the insane. It’s true!

“I have personally helped members to step through the careful process of suspending employees who have been caught stealing, using drugs, committing assault, and even sexually molesting food items. However, much of our after-hours work is answering the important but unexciting issues that keep our members awake at night.”

The devil is in the detail. “We regularly help employers figure out the requirements of the Holidays Act. This becomes especially prevalent around the time of public holidays.”

Some years this can be more of a problem than others, he notes.

34 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

“Christmas a couple of years back was a doozie for the on-call team as this was the year that four holiday days fell on a weekend and so could possibly be transferred to the following weekdays.

During that month we took innumerable calls discussing work patterns and what might be considered a normal working day.

The moving target that is employment law keeps these questions coming.”

Hince says members can be assured of professional advice no matter when they called the help line. “One of the great strengths of Hospitality New Zealand is its people. We’re all experienced hospitality professionals, bringing decades of experience to our interactions. Even our lawyer used to be a hotel chef. We worked together many years ago in Wellington.”

This depth of experience is not diminished after hours, he adds.

“Every day, we each know the whole team is probably still working, well into the evening. Should any really tricky issue be raised, a quick message will go out. Within minutes two, or more, regional managers will be working on the problem.

“All calls to us are logged in our contact system and date and time stamped. This helps us keep track of the type of calls we’re taking.

It also provides a history of any particular issue so the on-call managers can look back, see how far an issue has progressed and provide appropriate, timely advice.”

Chris offers a final assurance. “We can guarantee that you will never be talking with someone who’s not in New Zealand and you’ll never have to 'dial 1' to speak with someone. It’s possible you may get a personal cell phone answer message but please do leave your details as we will always get back to you very soon.”

Hospitality New Zealand

Advocacy services

Advocacy – taking up the cause for members – is taking up a lot of time right now for Wellington regional manager, Sara Tucker.

Advocacy for the industry, be it lobbying and liaising with MPs and government departments on a national level, or with local councillors, policy makers and community organisations throughout the country, plays a major part of what Hospitality New Zealand does.

The past few months for Sara have been consumed with developing a draft of Local Alcohol Policies (LAPs) by the councils in her region. According to the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012, councils can set their own policy covering licence opening hours, otherwise a default position (8am to 4am for on-licence) will apply, from December 18.

When Wellington City Council announced a 3am closing time and a one way door policy from 1am for bars within a tiny, designated city ‘entertainment precinct’ and a 2am closing time for all bars outside that precinct, Sara and her branch committee swung into action.

“We’ve dozens of members who open past 3am, and some of the city’s most popular bars are outside that designated entertainment precinct. Hospitality represents a huge night time economy for Wellington. Paymark card figures, plus cash spending, tell us around $40 million of revenue per annum is generated in the city between 4am and 7am. That equates to $11m worth of wages paid to hospitality workers.”

Sara and Wellington branch chair, Jeremy Smith, have spearheaded a major effort, advocating a policy position and making the case to council on behalf of members.

“We’ve engaged with the council on a number of levels, and we want to make it clear what affect any potential policy can have, especially given hospitality is such a major industry.

“We’ve consulted with policy writers, councillors and consultation groups and have members going to local ward public meetings.

We’ve researched licensing hours overseas, and I’m involved with a reference group that’s a ‘touchstone’ for council’s planning, including police, health sector and community groups. We’ve had some interesting discussions!”

Ironically, Sara says police have told council the bars aren’t the problem; that bars are well run in Wellington. The issue is their success means people who pre-load are attracted to the area.

“We’ve also made deputations to council meetings. We’ve formed a strategy group with members from different sectors, including some with late night venues and potential to lose out. This group has met weekly to work on responses to policy questions and prepare for meetings and presentations.

“Up to 150 operators attended a recent council meeting and it’s really powerful for the council to see the people from the industry – the personalities attached to the venues – so they can tell their stories. It’s very important to get cut-through.

“We’re also speaking to other business groups that will be commenting on the Council’s draft policy to make sure they understand our point of view. The good news is advocacy is making a difference. Council‘s now considering a 5am closing and a precinct extension.

“All this work is being repeated by the other regional managers with councils throughout New Zealand and once the draft policy comes out, we’ll write submissions, alert members to the policy, highlight issues of concern, encourage them to make submissions and offer them examples of how to; and, we’ll keep reminding them.”

A hospitality business operator joining Hospitality New Zealand (HNZ) is what Central South Island regional manager, Amy McLellanMinty, would call a “no brainer”.

“There are just so many benefits of membership – even for the most efficiently run business,” she says.

“It’s a no-brainer even, for example, when you have a successful and well run café where the owner’s daughter is a lawyer and has been able to provide the business with excellent employment agreements. (Employment issues rate as one of the major challenges faced by hospitality employers.)

“This café survived for a long time without being a member of any association. It was HNZ’s Westpac Merchant Service Fee that finally won this well-organised operator over. “The owner had been paying 4.7 per cent in credit card fees so it was an obvious no brainer to come on board and enjoy the offering to members of just 1.62 per cent. The resulting savings in credit card fees paid for her HNZ membership, and left plenty over.

“The sad part to this story (I won’t say end as they’ll be back) is that this café was a member for only ten months when the

earthquake-damaged building it was housed in was demolished.

I know the owner is desperately looking for a new site and will be back; the business just as great as it was before.”

Canterbury’s earthquakes have of course affected many Christchurch hospitality outlets. This reminds Amy of another operator, Chris Casserly of Ted’s Bar & Grill, who has benefited by member access to Hospitality Insurance Solutions.

“It is common knowledge that, since the earthquakes, getting business insurance has become difficult not just in Canterbury but throughout the country. In this case, a compounding problem was that previous owners had gone into liquidation and the business had no track record. Accordingly, most insurance brokers were simply not interested in looking at this business.

“I phoned my local contact, Todd Lynch from Marsh Insurance, and asked if he could help. Within hours Todd was in touch with Chris, offering sound advice. Also within hours, Chris had received an insurance offer for Ted’s Bar & Grill, along with a letter to state they were covered and that the confirmation paperwork would be with them in a few days.

“I’m delighted to say that Ted’s Bar & Grill is now safely insured.

As well, owner Chris has written to me saying that he has ‘never had such prompt, knowledgeable and professional service from any insurance broker, and it’s this kind of thing that makes being a member of Hospitality New Zealand so worthwhile’.”

Member benefits

july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 37

Hospitality New Zealand

Templates and tips

Need to know about handling a personal grievance? Copyright laws for playing cool music? What to do when the police pay a visit? Or if an armed robber does? Chances are there’ll be a resource to help you in Hospitality New Zealand’s Business Resources for members.

Upper northern North Island regional manager, Jill Davey, says HNZ has more than 90 resources, including templates and general information sheets, covering all those critical details a hospitality operator needs to know, such as employment and liquor licensing.

“All the HNZ regional mangers receive calls on a regular basis from members looking for support, information or advice about something that’s happening in their business. To help them, we have everything from template employment contracts and job descriptions to supporting documents and template letters that assist them when employing staff.”

Jill recalls one particular, new café that she was able to help.

“Recently, a brand new café joined up. The owners had no experience in running a café, or employing staff. I met with them and was able to talk through the different types of employment contracts, as well as discussing how the ‘90 Day Period’ under the Employment

Relations Act works with new employees.

“Our templates provided the perfect starting point for them when they employed their staff and our ‘trial period’ resource meant they were informed on how to deal with their new staff under the trial period of their contract.”

Jill says the most common calls for help relate to employment issues. “We can offer advice pertinent to the specific situations they are experiencing, and we can support this advice by providing a resource written by our legal advisor.

“Our disciplinary procedure resource is one of our most used resources. This provides members with everything they need to know about conducting a disciplinary meeting with a staff member. It also includes a template letter for inviting a staff member to a disciplinary meeting and other template letters are available should they need to issue a written warning, or even dismiss that staff member.”

Liquor licensing is the other area where members most often seek help, adds Jill. “Members find our huge range of resources on liquor licensing extremely beneficial. Topics such as host responsibility, licensing criteria, dealing with intoxication and information on controlled purchase operations are just some of the informative resources available.”

Jill points out that members can access all the business resources on the HNZ website, using their personal login. Alternatively they can call their regional manager and ask to have it emailed. “All this is included in their membership.”

Networking benefits

Local industry breakfast or national conference; serious seminar or a laugh and a wine with like-minded colleagues – no matter which it is the training seminars, networking events and industry showcases put on

by Hospitality New Zealand provide huge benefits for members, says Fiona Morton, regional manager southern South Island.

“We listen to what our members want and organise events and training to suit these requests.” Member endorsements back her claim. Chris Buckley, from Queenstown’s Pub on Wharf, for example, says he came away better informed from one industry breakfast.

“Having the privilege to listen to retired judge Bill Unwin’s opinion of what to expect in the new liquor licensing laws, and Hospitality New Zealand president Adam Cunningham’s thoughts on how to survive in the current market were extremely helpful.

This information gave us the opportunity to look at what we were doing and plan ahead with new steps to ensure we have positive outcomes in the future.”

Fiona Morton says the industry breakfasts have been a huge success. “The objective is to develop and promote closer working relationships between the regional agencies and licensees. It also facilitates an educational forum for the benefit of all parties.

These breakfasts are an excellent opportunity to share constructive dialogue and develop shared goals to reduce alcohol-related harm.”

The new Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012, and associated Local Alcohol Policies (LAPs) have been the hot topics at recent seminars

held for members across the country. “Over the past two months our in-house lawyer, Alyn Higgins, has presented 32 seminars to more than 1500 members and their key staff,” says Fiona.

Glen Christiansen and six of his team from Cromwell’s Golden Gate Lodge attended the Alexandra event, which included an employment seminar. “We appreciated being able to talk with the industry experts and ask questions pertaining to our region and what we could potentially face with our LAPs. Being able to talk directly with Alyn is always appreciated. We have always found the advice he and our regional manager give to be critical in assisting us managing our HR requirements.”

The big Hospitality New Zealand event each year is the Hospitality Showcase and the Awards for Excellence. “This is the opportunity for members across the country to network, get new business ideas and be inspired,” says Fiona. “The Showcase brings in keynote speakers, key suppliers and industry leaders who share their challenges, knowledge and experience. Delegates come from all areas of hospitality.”

Donna Hamilton from Invercargill’s Batch Café attended her first showcase last year. “As owner-operators, to go to the conference was a big decision for us. What a fantastic few days. A gathering of like-minded people, all keen to learn. Laugh, share wine and soak it all in. The various sessions were well worth the effort of staying put for a few hours. To attend the AGM and watch our board speak of the daily issues they handle was admirable. I didn’t realize how far-reaching it was, we left with a much deeper insight into the organisation and we really only scratch the surface of its benefits.

On to awards night; having someone serve you a wonderful meal and watching others from your industry celebrate their successes. We have booked for Queenstown and we can’t wait to do it all again.” july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 39

Tribute to André Teissonnière

Taranaki's French connection Hospitality magazine wanted to honour the passing of chef and restaurateur – André Teissonnière – who gave so much to Taranaki and to New Zealand with his consummate skill and colourful personality. André's obituary is published on our website, and below is a rerun of a story by former Taranaki Daily News journalism student Greta Cleary, written in 2008. Thankfully, the standard of service – for the most part – has improved since this article was written.

After 30 years of serving New Plymouth diners a little bit of France, André Teissonnière is hoping for a rest. Witt journalism student Greta Cleary looks at how it all began and what will happen when the man behind L'Escargot says au revoir.

Bad starts bring a sense of déjà vu for André Teissonnière.

To go back to the beginning we need to take a stroll down the hill on Devon St East, New Plymouth, in 1975. It's a dark evening in May. A stranger with an oo-là-là accent has opened an innovative restaurant that competes for diners with the Tong, La Scala and Ping's Pie Cart.

By day it’s an austere coffee shop. By night the tables are transformed by gingham cloths and candlelight. It’s dark and romantic like a film noir. The rouge ceiling and French music entice the bohemian and the bourgeois, hunting for sophistication and something fresh.

A 'Bonjour' from the restaurateur adds to the feeling of leaving for a foreign adventure. A raucous group of six people soon has a young waitress in tears.

The fiery owner storms out to the aid of his distressed employee and tells the group to pay their bill and f**k off. In the days that follow, a letter to the editor appears in the paper from the diners who can't believe the nerve of their host. Fellow chefs question the identity of said restaurateur.

It was André. His establishment had only been open three weeks.

He later found out those diners actually worked for the newspaper.

"I didn't start off very well," he says with a shrug, wry grin and still-thick French accent.

Seven years later, in 1982, André’s L'Escargot moved to Brougham St. The May opening night was close to André's 34th birthday.

A band and 60 invited friends filled the stylish eatery, along with july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 41

Tribute to André Teissonnière other diners keen to experience elegance.

Someone had brought in a birthday cake, which André shared with his friends - only to find later it belonged to someone else dining that night. "I know who it is, too, and I don't think he's ever forgiven me," he laughs.

Despite these faux pas André has managed to survive for more than 30 years in what can be an unforgiving and fad-filled industry, and talks about letting it all go. The restaurant was put on the market in June last year, he has no regrets and hasn't considered returning to France.

Born in Paris, André grew up in his parents' hotel in Montpellier in the south of France. When he left school, he worked for them doing everything from answering phones to cooking.

Leaving to work as a chef in Scotland, he met a girl from Eketahuna and they got engaged in Edinburgh. She brought him home to New Zealand and he brought French cuisine.

They did marry but are no longer together. André cooked his way around New Zealand until he reached New Plymouth and decided he had the expertise to start his own restaurant.

He was motivated by a desire for good service, and still is.

However, he says the service in New Zealand is still not up to scratch and that's disappointing.

"There are more establishments and more choice but a lot of places overcharge and the service is poor." His high standards are revealed during a phone call to a wine company that has failed to supply what he needs. He bellows down the phone and hangs up.

"If I ran my business that way, I wouldn't still be here."

André has a lot of clientele from overseas and says one of the first things he hears is their displeasure about the service they have received - especially in the hospitality industry. "We try and encourage people to come to New Zealand and they always talk about the beautiful scenery and poor service."

Maybe, he says, Kiwis are a bit laid back, or a bit cocky, but he’s

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André Teissonnière's restaurant, L'Escargot, brought fine-dining and a sense of European style to provincial New Plymouth.

quick to say that's a generalisation. "I like to run a tight ship and that's the same with my life in general."

"Sometimes you have to teach people how to eat properly first before you can even train them to do their job, " he says, referring to etiquette. The quality of service at L'Escargot is one of the things that brings people back, and will be missed.

Good mate Mike Meagher says André's retirement will be a loss to New Plymouth and the restaurant trade. "You have to be dedicated to survive 30 years." Leaving will be hard on André, too, says Mike, because he likes the company of the diners and gets on with people from all walks of life.

"He has a tremendous sense of style and puts a lot of thought into the business. He may have panache but he is not grandiose.”

André's typical day starts at 7am. He goes into the restaurant and organises supplies or whatever needs doing, then he goes for a swim at the Aquatic Centre, has lunch, then a siesta.

In the early evening he goes back to the restaurant for the night to greet his customers and keep an eye on things. There’s a glint of uncertainty in his eyes as he talks about L'Escargot being on the market."I enjoy what I do, but it's time to put my feet up."

He plans to spend a bit of time in Australia with his children, Jean-Philippe, who has a son called Louis, and his daughter Cleo, who is expecting her first child next month. There’s also a dream to build a holiday home in Bali. It’s one of his favourite places, but he tries to stay away from the tourists.

He enjoys the real experience of lunching with the locals in faraway villages and would like to have his own little bit of paradise.

It's time to go at snail's pace.

Five questions for André Teissonnière Do you believe in God? Yes Where was the last place you went on holiday?

Bali What's your favourite sport? Swimming and surfing What was the last movie you saw? La Vie En Rose What would you save from a burning building?

Photos of my grandchild.

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Food for Thought

Future Leaders Where are the industry’s future leaders coming from and is the industry doing enough to develop its own?

This is a question that Hospitality New Zealand has been looking at. The industry’s reliance on migrants to fill senior management positions is evident from the concerns being raised at Immigration Services' decision to remove restaurant, bar and tavern managers from the Essential Skills Shortages List next February. The Minister of Immigration, Michael Woodhouse, has made it very clear that he expects the industry to do more to develop and train its own talent, rather than rely on migrant labour. So, what can be done?

Firstly industry itself, in the form of individual businesses, needs to take a greater responsibility in developing its own leaders. This means identifying them and developing them so they can take senior management responsibilities within the business. One of the best training options available is to put staff through the National Diploma in Hospitality, Food and Beverage, or Rooms Division. This is a national qualification covered by ServiceIQ and delivered by Artisan.

Hospitality New Zealand has also decided to take a leadership role in promoting young leaders by holding a Future Leaders Day prior to this year’s Hospitality Showcase 2013. This programme is for aspiring young leaders, designed to inspire and motivate the industry’s young leaders to upskill and look for more responsible roles.

The programme will be led by James Coddington, CEO of NZSki Ltd, who has developed a fantastic training culture in his company which has drastically reduced staff turnover, increased

morale and profitability. David Rigg from Artisan will undertake a taster seminar of supervisory skills, and the leaders will hear from a panel of young guns, including top barista Nick Clarke, Muddle Man Chase Bickerton and Liberty Brewing’s Joseph Wood.

The Power of Digital Media will be covered by the motivational Eva-Maria and Tony Wheeler from Raising the Bar Consulting who will talk about those things that hospitality operators too often get wrong and how to fix them. For the technologically savvy leaders there’ll also be a session with a glimpse of some of the latest hospitality gadgets.

Hospitality business owners could do well to identify their young talent and reward them by sending them to the Future Leaders Day in Queenstown. We as an industry need to invest in the future. If hospitality business owners are serious about the future of their own business, they should take the opportunity to invest in developing their own talent by sending one of their own young guns to the Future Leaders Day in Queenstown on Tuesday 24 September 2013.

Bruce Robertson is the chief executive of Hospitality New Zealand.

Taking our Skills to the World

The tradition of young New Zealanders travelling the world and gaining overseas experience continues, albeit with some different destinations now in the mix. While the UK was the focus, now more are heading to Asia. However, Europe is still a draw card, and that is where the cream of New Zealand’s young trade trainees are about to pit their skills against the best of their peers from around the globe.

This month, in Germany, a team of 13 trainees from around New Zealand - the Tool Blacks - will compete against more than a thousand other highly skilled young people from more than 60 countries at the WorldSkills International competition. The Kiwi team are all under 23 and were selected after competing at the New Zealand WorldSkills national championships last year.

WorldSkills is for young people involved in trade and technical industries, from cooking, engineering, automotive, building and construction and hairdressing. The scale of the event is rather like the Olympics. More than 150,000 visitors are expected to attend the WorldSkills Leipzig Championship making it the largest international skills competition in the world. New Zealand is part of a worldwide group which organises trade competitions within their own countries and forms teams to compete at the biennial international competition.

The focus for our Tool Blacks team is firmly on performance rather than just participation. Each team member is proud to have been chosen to represent New Zealand so all have been putting in long hours of training – and fundraising – in preparation for the 44 . Hospitality/Thirst . July 2013

international competition. While it is a small team, it is a high calibre one, and they aim to show that New Zealand training is right up there with the best in the world.

ServiceIQ ,, as a skills-focused organisation wanting New Zealand to have a world-class service industry through qualified people, is ‘backing black’ by supporting two Tool Black team members – apprentice aircraft engineer Michael West from RNZAF and apprentice chef William Mordido from SKYCITY. As you read this they’ll be competing at the WorldSkills 2013 championship, doing their best in front of a huge audience and under real pressure.

At this huge event, Michael, William and the team will see the great potential their futures could hold and no doubt it will inspire them to gain expertise at the highest level.

Michael and William are future industry leaders; role models who will encourage others into training and to gain qualifications that will not only benefit them in New Zealand, but also give them international opportunities. Skills shape our world, as many businesses, politicians, teachers and young people realise, and growth will return to our economies through a focus on skills and entrepreneurship.

Dean Minchington Chief Executive ServiceIQ february 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 44

Food for Thought

Food and wine harmony

The culinary landscape of New Zealand is changing. With ‘locals’ travelling more and the diversity of cultures now living here, there’s demand for a wider range of cuisines and dining experiences. The pressure’s on for restaurants to adapt, so beverage programmes are evolving too. Wine lists are expanding or shrinking, businesses are focusing on the best local product, and more international options are being added to wine portfolios.

There’s a rise in the number of smaller, focused distribution companies introducing boutique wine brands to a fiercely competitive market, and there’s an increase in the number of restaurants specialising in wines from particular countries and building a client base around this. Food and beverage matching programmes need to reflect this growth and change.

It’s interesting to participate in events such as cocktail and food pairing, or beer and food. Some of the combinations offered are more successful than others. When it comes to fortified wines, the principles are similar to standard wine pairing philosophy: pick the three most dominant textures or structural elements on the plate and think about which wines carry the same attributes. There’ll always be a structural spike somewhere in the food; acid may be high, steak may be rare (high in protein) or spices may dominate.

So use wines that talk to these elements.

Sergi Rostoll from the Gonzalez Byass company visited NZ recently and hosted an evening at Basque Kitchen featuring sherries and wine from the Byass portfolio. Tapas and wine were an appropriate demonstration for taking the wine and food pairing up a notch.

Homemade salted almonds were served with an En Rama Fino:

noticeable salt in any food item suppresses higher acidity in wine and sherry, and promotes fruitiness. The essence of what Fino Sherry is about isn’t lost or overpowered by the food.

Goat’s cheese on toast with broad beans and PX Sherry Vinegar paired with Garnacha Blanca showed a wine can be enjoyed on its own yet pair well with food. The weight and mild oak influence of the wine correlated well with the creamy texture of the cheese (oak in wine helps with this). The acidity of the wine matched the intensity and acidity in the sherry vinegar, and the fruit flavours in the wine were a noticeable contrast to the slightly earthy theme of beans and crunchy bread in the dish.

An unusual match that worked well was aged dry Oloroso with slow-roasted pork belly and quince relish. A pairing all about intensity and contrast: the pork belly was moist, soft, and rich in fat and crackling; and the relish piquant. The alcohol in the sherry contrasted the richness and fat, and the crackling and the wine had the same nutty sweetness.

Wine and food pairing has become an expected part of our restaurant culture. Taking it a step further and using different beverages provides a point of difference that when done well, adds a new dimension to the dining experience.

Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier.

In business online

An online presence is imperative for restaurants to attract new customers and serve existing ones This year GrabOne hosted a survey for the Restaurant Association – an opportunity for the Association to tap into their database of over one million people throughout New Zealand.

The survey respondents were from across New Zealand including 34.3% in Auckland, 13.4% in Wellington, 11.3% in Christchurch and 6.1% in Hawke’s Bay. Almost 50% of respondents (49.9%) were aged between 22 and 44, 19.7% aged between 45 and 54 and 14.8% aged between 55 and 64. Only 10% were 65 and over and 4.9%, 21 years of age and under.

One of the insights from this survey was the way consumers are using the web to research new places to dine. It used to be a listing in the Yellow Pages but these days an online presence is imperative for restaurants attracting new customers and serving existing ones.

With 76.2% of New Zealanders viewing restaurant menus online and an impressive 39.9% making an actual reservation online, there is no excuse for a lack of World Wide Web presence. In a nutshell, if you’re not there, you’re missing out. And it’s not just fine dining restaurants that need to pay heed to this advice – 60.8% of respondents have placed a takeaway order online.

Customers are looking on your website for the basics – menus, special offers, telephone numbers and directions. Simplicity and clarity win every time – make sure this information is easily accessible on your site.

The moral of the story? The more online visibility you have, the more opportunities your new and existing customers have to find you. Providing online options for reservations or ordering takeaways provides a great service to your customers, and the research shows they’re making use of them.

A winning website has an up-to-date, clear menu, a gallery of some of your top dishes, a peek inside your restaurant, easy-to-find contact details, opening hours and directions. A website should reflect the brand, look, feel and the potential price reach. (Slick, mood images for fine dining restaurants, and a fun, community-feel for a popular neighbourhood eatery.)

Your website needs to be mobile or tablet friendly, especially if customers expect to download your menu via PDF on their phone.

There are now options to embed your booking system tool into social media channels such as Facebook and consider adding a mechanism on your website to allow your customers to order takeaways online.

And make sure you tell your customers about this added service.

Source: the 2013 Hospitality Report. The annual Restaurant Association of NZ / AUT Hospitality Report is available free of charge to Restaurant Association members, or $150+gst for the general industry. For more information, contact the Restaurant Association on 09 638 8403. july 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 45

Food for Thought

Booked out

Does your restaurant accept bookings? Increasingly, the answer will be no. In a world where, at least in metropolitan areas, new establishments attract crowds so keen to sample the latest bright light in the culinary firmament that they’re willing to wait in line for an hour or more to score a table – the ‘no bookings’ policy is becoming the norm.

I have a friend who firmly believes that a refusal to take bookings breaks the long-held informal contract between restaurants and their patrons. It’s an interesting argument and while I can see his point, I believe it’s the right of any establishment to determine its own rules. The cynic in me, however, wonders how many hot new places will change their policy if the crowds disappear.

The casualisation of dining is having unexpected consequences.

Some diners now expect all restaurants to take a more relaxed attitude and think nothing of turning up half an hour or more after or before their booked arrival time.

Whether they’re late or early, great pressure is placed on the establishment and its staff.

If they’re late, there’ll be an anxious period when the proprietor wonders whether ‘drop-ins’ should be accepted. If the booked diners can’t be contacted, there’s no guarantee that they’ll show up. And for smaller restaurants, diners arriving early is just as inconvenient.

Many diners don’t realise that arrival times are staggered to avoid placing undue demands on the kitchen and other staff. It’s much better all round if 30 or 40 meals can be prepared and served over an hour or two rather than all at the same time.

When table occupants turn up 30 minutes early, this planning process goes out the window.

“Oh that’s alright,” they might say, “We’ll just have a drink at the bar.” That’s fine if there is a separate bar, but when space is at a premium, the seemingly innocuous request can be problematical.

At one central city establishment I visit regularly, early arrivals are gently encouraged to enjoy a pre-meal drink at a bar around the corner, but this reasonable suggestion can lead to resentment.

“Are you telling us you won’t take us?” more than one party has replied, and explaining the difficulties takes diplomacy.

I recall dining at a much-praised suburban restaurant in Rome, and turning up very early in the evening because of the ‘no bookings’ policy. I explained that I didn’t want to eat for an hour or so and asked whether I could enjoy a drink in the meantime.

“You want to drink before dinner?” the proprietor asked. “Come with me.” Taking my arm, he walked me 50m or so up the road to a tiny neighbourhood bar. “Drink here,” he said. “I will hold your table.” I did, and I’m pleased to report that the meal I eventually enjoyed was well worth the minor inconvenience.

Vic Williams is cellar director for the New Zealand Wine Society and the recent recipient of a Sir George Fistonich medal.

Shake it up

Someone once said “A bartender is a temporary pharmacist with a limited inventory”.

We all know that a bartender is also a great listener, a problem solver, a salesperson, your best friend, a wealth of knowledge, and one of the most passionate people you’ll meet in any restaurant or bar across the world.

The Service Professionals Association NZ presented their Cocktails 101 for the second time to an enthusiastic group of young hospitality professionals who represented a wide range of roles – from students to function staff to waiters keen to become bartenders.

Poni Sula, our energetic and knowledgeable presenter, captivated the crowd with his bartending stories, a fascinating range of myths and legends about alcohol and of course an excellent demonstration of correct technique in cocktail making.

Starting with the basics, Poni focussed on efficiency, technique and cost effectiveness in making drinks. He then covered styles of drink production such as Martini, Mojito/muddled, built and blended drinks and explained how these could be adapted to create signature or special occasion options.

After tasting our arrival drink – a Plantation Rum Punch – our audience was put at ease by Poni’s storytelling and fast facts, only for a few to be surprised at being picked out of the crowd to jump behind the bar and ‘have a go’. Nervous laughter aside, our ‘volunteers’ did a great job at recreating the cocktails and by all accounts had a great time.

The Service Professionals Association was set up to support and encourage the young people entering our industry. All of those involved in our extended committee along with our supporters in 46 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

the food and beverage industry volunteer their time, services and products with great enthusiasm.

On this occasion we were very lucky to have the support of Dan Walker and his company Neat Spirits, using West Winds Gin from the Margaret River, 666 Vodka from Tasmania, and Plantation Rum from Trinidad and Tobago. Also, a big thanks to the team at Libertine in Victoria Park Market for the use of their bar.

Nicola Richards runs Monsoon Poon and is chairwoman of the Service Professional Association of New Zealand (SPANZ).

Marketplace

Venues for hire by the hour Commercial kitchen, dining room, conference/meeting rooms 2 Cochrane Drive, Kerikeri, Bay of Islands 09 407 7201 info@flourflower.co www.flourflower.co

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VOL. 48 OCTOBER 2012

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. 47

Thanks to Virtue Books, we have a copy of River Cottage Everyday and Healthy Appetite to give away. To be in to win, call 09 486 0908 or email admin@virtuebooks.co.nz Congratulations to last month’s winners: Gennaro: Let's Cook Italian was won by Martin Chivers of Wellington; and a copy of Bill's Everyday Asian is going out to Joyce Bradley of Auckland.

These books can be purchased from Virtue Books.

Call 09 486 0908 to secure your copy now.

River Cottage everyday Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Paperback edition published by Bloomsbury, London 2012 RRP: $50 Hospitality special: $45

Healthy Appetite

Gordon Ramsay Published by Sterling Epicure 2012 RRP: $50 Hospitality special: $45

The current holder of 15 Michelin stars, Gordon Ramsay certainly has a high energy lifestyle.

He’s created Healthy Appetite for others wanting great food while running high octave lives as well.

Starting off as a footballer, Ramsay switched to a catering college after a knee injury and now owns restaurants throughout the world and is regularly seen in television shows. He once challenged himself to run a marathon a year for ten years and he won this challenge! This year, the colourful Ramsay has been inducted into the Hall of Fame and appeared on the UK TV guide’s list of the 60 nastiest villains of all time. Regardless of where you think he fits in this spectrum, he has a high energy personality and must eat well to keep going. He shares some of these foods in Healthy Appetite which is a collection of more than 125 recipes, delightfully fresh and tasty and accompanied by photography by Lisa Barber.

Regardless of the level of energy used in your lifestyle, there are good recipes for everyone.

48 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

When I opened this book and saw grilled coz lettuce, I knew I’d like the rest of the book and I did - it’s a wonderful collection of easy yummy recipes.

Multi-award winning Hugh has been on television for the past 15 years. He believes good food prepared from fresh ingredients – ideally seasonal and locally sourced – should be the heart of every happy, healthy family kitchen. Divided into chapters, there are great recipes for everyday food. The chapter on lunch boxes is useful for those working where lunch is not provided and the chapters on thrifty meat and vegetables galore provide some really good ideas. This book certainly supports Hugh’s philosophy and is perfect for family cooks.

t lates e h t Wine c ra f t n i d tren c raf t ng brewe ihottest trends tines is brewers

a th ited St to their One of the Un in in s r g o t in c brew de ine fa w g in s c n inclu introdu s. Introductio as well as the , se yeasts be ers proces d wine enting n a m r s e e f f o g ra p d on for o he reas r meth e popula ine barrels. T to bring mor w e b d e o s t r u s e in be em e c raf t hion se this fas gravitas to th g down some ’s in of wine well as break up-market s in a r r e o e t c se s to b barrier e h t f o a nt s . restaur

New & NEWS Investor takes chunk of craft brewer

Tuatara Brewing, the Wellington region craft brewer has a new investor. Investment company Rangatira has purchased a 35% stake in Tuatara for an undisclosed price.

According to a release from Tuatara, founding shareholders Sean Murrie and Carl Vasta have sold down their stakes to facilitate the deal, which will allow Tuatara to increase its investment in expanded production facilities.

Tuatara is one of the largest true craft brewers in the country, producing around one million litres of beer a year. As well as the burgeoning local craft beer market, especially in FMCG, the company also exports to Australia, China, South East Asia, Europe and the United States.

Increased investment will allow it to grow to a planned production capacity of four million litres, which will help consolidate existing markets, all of which are growing.

Craft breweries and cider makers at 2013 Beervana – August 9 & 10

The can can

The other high fashion item with craft brewers is the can.

It appears that the lightprotective qualities of can are making it the container of choice for high-quality-focused craft brewers who want to get their brew to market in the best possible condition. Latest to adopt the can option is Samuel Adams, with its ardently promoted 'Sam Can'.

More than 200 hundred beers will be showcased from 71 breweries and cider makers at Beervana this year. To be held on August 9 and 10 at Westpac Stadium in Wellington, leading craft breweries from around the country will be represented, including the NZ Champion Brewery winners from the last two Brewer’s Guild of New Zealand Awards: Harrington’s in 2012 and 8 Wired in 2011.

As well as showcasing the breadth of craft brewing and cider making from up and down the country, attendees will also have the opportunity to try leading craft beers from Australia, and from further afield including pioneer USA craft beer Samuel Adams and rapidly rising star from Scotland – Brewdog.

The Black Rock Home Brew Competition is back at Beervana this year, giving the growing number of aspiring home brewers the chance to have their brews judged and be champion home brewer for 2013.

Through the guidance of Beervana’s Culinary Director Martin Bosley, attendees will also be able to enjoy food created by some of the capital’s best chefs along with recommended beer pairings.

For the full list of entries, event and ticket information go to www.hospitalitymag.co.nz/thirst

NOVEMBER July2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 51

New & NEWS

Pinot Noir Trophy announced in honour of Halliday

Australian wine writer, winegrower, winemaker and consultant, James Halliday is to have a trophy named in his honour by the Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria, to be awarded at the Royal Melbourne Wine Awards. The trophy will be for the Champion Pinot Noir of the show.

The Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria CEO Mark O‘Sullivan says, “It is only fitting that the Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria should acknowledge Halliday’s contribution to the wine industry with a trophy named in his honour.”

Halliday has expressed delight at the announcement, saying to local media, “When I left Sydney and moved to Melbourne it was the first step in a long-held ambition to make Pinot Noir of real quality, the second following in 1985 when Coldstream Hills made its inaugural vintage of Yarra Valley Pinot Noir. The Royal Melbourne Wine Awards is one of the most respected wine awards in Australia and I am delighted to be associated with it through the James Halliday Trophy for Best Pinot Noir.”

All Pinot Noirs entered in the 2013 Royal Melbourne Wine Awards will be eligible to win the new trophy.

Screwcaps feature in wine recall

High sulphur levels are the reason given by UK retailer, Majestic for its recall of 3000 bottles of Chablis, with their screwcap closures implicated in the problem.

After complaints from customers, tests of the wine revealed higher than maximum permitted levels of sulphites in Jean Bourguignon 2011 Chablis which is available throughout the retailers' 176 outlets in the United Kingdom.

The specific product being recalled is: Jean Bourguignon 2011 Chablis, lot number LA64526.

No other Majestic Wine Warehouse products or Jean Bourguignon wines are affected.

Majestic has sent recall notices to customers by email and post, which explain why the product is being recalled and the actions customers should take if they have bought the wine.

Jean Bourguignon 2011 Chablis has been widely distributed through grocery retail trade in the United Kingdom. The brand is one of a number owned by the large Burgundian wine business of Labouré-Roi, estimated to be the third biggest in the region.

52 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

100 point Grange highlights top Aussie range

2008 Penfolds Grange has received a 100 point score from one of the world’s leading wine magazines, America’s Wine Spectator magazine. Wine Spectator, published by Marvin R. Shanken, awarded the 2008 Grange a perfect score, as reviewed by Editor-at-Large Harvey Steiman, and also awarded a further ten Penfolds wines scores of 90 points or higher.

Peter Gago, Penfolds Chief Winemaker said, “This is a wonderful and timely result for our winemaking and viticulture teams. This acknowledgement endorses the continued and impressive work undertaken in our own vineyards as well as the dedication and commitment of our ‘Grange Growers’.”

Harvey Steiman says of the 2008 Grange, "An utterly majestic Shiraz, sleek and seamless, brimming with ripeness on a framework that allows for grace and expressiveness in equal measure. The intensity of fresh blueberry and plum fruit holds attention until the nuances kick in, offering glints of exotic spice, coffee, cocoa, bay leaf and mint.

Shows tremendous presence without a lot of weight, the tannins present but not even close to getting in the way. A great wine now with plenty of room to grow.

Drink now through 2040."

The review appeared in the June 12, 2013 issue of Wine Spectator Insider.

Penfolds Grange has a long history of excellence since its inception by creator, Max Schubert in 1951 (experimental vintage). Originally criticised by wine experts at the time, Penfolds Grange gained acceptance when the 1955 vintage was awarded gold medals at international and local wine competitions. Unlike any wine of its time, it changed the face of the Australian wine industry and went on to become a National Trust heritage-listed wine.

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Cork launches screwcap alternative The two global leaders in wine packaging, Amorim and O-I, today announced at Vinexpo in Bordeaux the launch of Helix, an innovative cork-glass wine packaging solution for the popular premium, fast turnaround still wine segment.

The result of a four-year partnership between Amorim and O-I, the development of Helix drew on both companies’ innovation capabilities and expertise in serving global wine markets, gained from a heritage that stretches back over a century.

“The future of innovation is through collaboration,” said O-I European President Erik Bouts. “Helix is a proven example of what can be achieved for consumers and the wine trade when the world’s leading companies in glass packaging and cork work together.”

The new ‘twist to open’ concept combines an ergonomically-designed stopper made from cork and a glass bottle with an internal thread finish in the neck, creating a high performing and sophisticated wine packaging solution. Helix combines all the benefits of cork and glass – quality, sustainability and premium image with user-friendly, re-sealable convenience.

As part of the development process, market research in France, UK, USA and China revealed great consumer acceptance of HELIX for fast turnaround and popular premium wines.

NOVEMBER july2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 53

New & NEWS

Villa Maria’s new look for New Zealand’s best ever vintage

Wine lovers are set to sample what could be New Zealand’s best-ever vintage this year, thanks to one of the country’s most memorable summers.

Months of hot and dry weather provided vintners with optimum conditions to produce a standard of wine that hasn’t been matched in 15 years.

Villa Maria founder, Sir George Fistonich, says our long summer has allowed grapes to reach prime ripeness, creating perfectly balanced sugar levels and excellent flavour.

“I’ve been making wine for more than 50 years and it’s not the first time we’ve had a summer like this. We had similar conditions in 1998, which until now was widely held as the country’s best ever vintage.

“But, 15 years of advancements in winemaking technology paired with perfect growing conditions means this year is set to exceed all previous vintages. Wine drinkers can expect great things from 2013 – I think it’s going to be a truly historic year for New Zealand wine,” he says.

The winery’s first wine to be bottled this year is Villa Maria’s Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013. Sir George says the hints of passionfruit and fresh lime in this year’s vintage of New Zealand’s most popular varietal will give wine drinkers a delicious taste of summer and sets the standard to expect more exceptional 2013 wines.

Following Villa Maria’s 50th anniversary, the company has redesigned its packaging to emphasise its New Zealand origin and help it to stand out on shelves.

“Over 70% of our wine is exported around the world, and we want to show international shoppers exactly where our wine is produced, and emphasise its quality with a more contemporary-looking label. It’s fitting to be able to label our best vintage with a design that will be remembered,” Sir George says.

54 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

Q&A. Jacqui Clarke

Queen of the city of sales

The Lewisham Awards are the benchmark for the Auckland hospitality industry and taking one home is often a career highlight for the winners. So how good do you have to be to win one twice?

Jacqui Clarke was named outstanding sales rep for the second time at the awards ceremony, capping a great night for Tickety-Boo Liquor, which won the award for best distributor.

Clarke has been in the industry for a while now, working in every facet of the business from restaurant management to wine sales and she’s still motivated by an industry that provides not only employment, but great enjoyment as well.

Thirst managed to persuade her to take a few minutes out from her hectic schedule (client visits, emergency stock dropoffs, new product tastings), to talk about what makes a solid sales performer into an award-winning rep, known and respected throughout her territory.

What does it mean to you to win the award again?

What’s your favourite product/sector at the moment?

I think it would probably have to be gin. We’ve got the Sipsmith range in now and the Sipsmith Sloe Gin is – honestly – the best product I’ve ever tasted. I love it.

What do you drink for fun?

Wine, definitely wine, which is quite good, really. I sold wine before and it’s really good that we sell spirits. It’s too dangerous otherwise; you’d end up drunk by lunchtime.

Where do you see the industry as being at the moment and what trends are you noticing?

It’s amazing, a really cool feeling.

You feel sometimes as a rep that people are sick of the sight of you always coming around trying to sell them things, but this showed me that maybe there are a few people out there who still like me after all.

Bartenders are becoming a lot more educated about what’s available, what with the internet and social media and so there’s a lot more place for small companies like us that are flexible and can bring in the products that are going to work for bartenders. Customers are less What is it that makes a happy to be told what to do by Jacqui Clarke from Tickety-Boo Liquor, left, with successful rep? bigger companies now and some Marisa Bidois, Restaurant Association CEO. It’s all about being dedicated, of the restrictions being placed organised, colourful and friendly. on the back bars are getting It’s about taking an interest in ridiculous. So you’ve got a lot of your customers and not selling them things people wanting to have more independence into a bit of retail before talking my way you know aren’t going to work for them. into a few restaurant jobs. The last few in their well pours and so on and that goes You also have to be able to read people restaurant and bar jobs I had were projectback to what I was saying earlier about and work out what’s going to make them driven, sorting out staff and things like offering products that work for the customer excited; it’s not about just filling orders that in Queenstown, Christchurch and rather than just filling up the back bar with and making your own targets.

Wellington. But when you’re constantly certain brands. It’s simple really – customers working in a negative environment it takes want what works for them and that’s what we’re here to offer. I think we’ll be seeing How did you get started as a rep? its toll, so I ended up in sales instead. I I started with Lion back in Wellington spent four years at Lion and then Titch more and more bars looking to be more in 2002. I’d been managing bars and from Thirsty Camel approached me and independent and to offer their customers restaurants for 15 years. I’d actually I ended up there, before getting a job at what they want, rather than what they’re Tickety-Boo. told they can have. been a librarian before that and then got NOVEMBER july2012 July 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 55

The Panel. Blended Scotch

Going on a blender While whisky might be the king of spirits, it’s true to say that it’s also the most varied style of spirit on the shelf. By DON KAVANAGH

With so many categories to choose from, it can be confusing sometimes, even for those in the trade who already know their drinks. Whisky comes in many shapes – Irish, Scotch, Bourbon, Canadian and Japanese for starters – and the plethora of styles and labels can leave you breathless.

Taking Scotch as an example, there are innumerable versions of single malt available and these tend to hog the limelight. But blended whisky is by far the bigger seller, even if it doesn’t have quite the same cachet that malt does.

All blends contain malt, and the proportion of malted whisky to unmalted grain whisky is what gives the final spirit its unique character. For many years, the only Scotch available was the blended sort, unless you went cap-in-hand to the distillery itself. Blended Scotch was what made the spirit famous and gave the malts a platform from which to show their unique charms.

So it’s a bit surprising then when blended whisky gets little if any fanfare among drinkers. Certainly blends don’t tend to have the same depth of flavour as malts nor the same level of individuality, but then they were never supposed to. They were designed to appeal to a broad spectrum of drinkers and usually to be served with either a mixer or in a cocktail.

That’s not to say that blends are only fit for mixing. There are

many fine blended Scotches out there and their approachability and relative cheapness makes them an attractive proposition for both drinkers and bartenders alike. They are also versatile spirits, allowing a bartender to give full rein to creativity, knowing that there will be little loss of the essential flavour of the spirit, which tends to be broader and less nuanced than malt.

So it was a pleasure, then, to sit down to a flight of blended whiskies that offered something for both the cocktail maker and the straight whisky drinker. We got together in the basement bar at 1885, under the indulgent eye of Egor Petrov, who was just as eager as we were to try the whiskies.

It’s a great space for a tasting, especially when it was such a crappy day outside and our panel was swelled by a few new members. As well as regular panelist and whisky connoisseur Bart Burgers, we also had Anthony and Kane McHugh, who have just taken on the rather excellent Norval's whisky and are starting to put it around the trade.

Our cocktails were made by the multi-talented Chris Turner, whose enthusiastic use of a smoke gun left the place looking like a 1970s disco at times, but at least the drinks tasted fantastic. Thanks to all at 1885 for their generosity in allowing the use of their bar for what turned into a very interesting tasting.

The Famous Grouse Rightly famous and a huge seller in Scotland, which should be all you need to know. Plenty of sweetness on the nose and a big blast of caramel on the palate, make this a supremely likeable whisky and the short-but-sweet finish crowns it.

The Black Grouse A smokier, peatier version of its little brother and it certainly does pack in the flavour. Spicy, perfumed notes on the nose, with a dark woody undertone give way to smoke and dried fruit flavours before the smoky, briny finish ties it all up rather nicely.

$$$$

$$$

Beam Global (NZ) Ltd Phone: 09 915 8444 info@beamglobal.co.nz www.beamglobal.co.nz

Beam Global (NZ) Ltd Phone: 09 915 8444 info@beamglobal.co.nz www.beamglobal.co.nz

56 . Hospitality/Thirst . july JANUARY August 20132012 2013

Food for Thought.

The Panel.

Blended Scotch Teacher’s Genuinely whisky-like nose on this one, with sweet barley and just a wee hint of smoke on the nose. The barley notes really come out on the palate, with grassy, honey characters also clearly present, along with an almost coppery touch on the finish.

Monkey Shoulder Not technically a blend, as it is made of all malt and it shows. Powerful aromas of apple, wood and vanilla lead on to a palate that is packed with creamy, ripe fruit and spice flavours. The finish is big and brawny and this works at all levels as a drink.

$$$$ Beam Global (NZ) Ltd Phone: 09 915 8444 info@beamglobal.co.nz www.beamglobal.co.nz

$$$$$ Federal Geo Limited Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz www.federalgeo.co.nz

Chivas Regal 12 Year Old An old stager and a well-known presence around the world, with a nice sweet wood nose and plenty of good flavours, including toffee, butterscotch and a little bit of smoke. A long, gentle finish rounds off the proceedings nicely.

The Antiquary Always noticeable for its cut-glass bottle, this is a fruit lover’s whisky, with orange oil, citrus and wood aromas. On the palate it’s light but definite, with deft touches of pepper, honey and dried grass, before finishing strongly with a nice oak component.

$$$$ Pernod Ricard New Zealand Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Chivas Regal 18 Year Old Very much the big brother of the family, with a lovely nose of manuka, dark oak, old honey and dried fruit. Very rich on the palate, with ripe fruit flavours backed by toasty oak and a smoky note that really impresses, leading to a fine, firm finish. $$$$$ Pernod Ricard New Zealand Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Ballantine’s Finest Scotch Whisky This is a huge seller in Europe, which is quite understandable. Soft and gently sweet on the nose, the palate offers sweetness, spice and a soft, woody touch. It finishes reasonably quickly and an almost caramel sweetness remains. $$$ Pernod Ricard New Zealand Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com SPIRITS TRADE PRICE GUIDE excl GST per 700/750ml bottle $$$$$ - 50 and up • $$$$ - 40-50 • $$$ - 30-40 $$ - 20-30 • $ - 20 and under

$$$$ Federal Geo Limited Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz www.federalgeo.co.nz

Clan Gold A lighter style of blend, with nice wood and cereal notes on the nose. The palate is reserved, with some nice malted toffee notes and a vague hint of smoke before a nice sweet finish. Ideal as a cocktail ingredient or served with soda. $$$ Malts of Distinction (North Island) Phone: 09 298 4808 malts-of-distinction@xtra.co.nz Long Cloud Wines & Spirits (South Island) Phone: 021 0275 0299 nick@longcloudwines.co.nz

Norval’s Sensible Scotch A new one on most of us, but what a little charmer. The nose is a little shy at first, but the flavours soon expand generously to offer lovely touches of sweet oak, honey, spice and heather.

The palate is packed with flavours of toffee, dried fruit, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper and the fresh finish is all about the spice, with a decent length to it as well. A standout performance from the debutant. $$$ ★STAR Anthony McHugh The Whiskey Boutique Ltd Phone: 021 958 089 tony@thewhiskeyshop.co.nz www.thewhiskeyshop.co.nz

of the SHOW

JANUARY August july2013 2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 57

Food for Panel.

Thought. Blended Scotch The NORVALS The Sensibe Blood and Sand 50ml Norvals 10ml Carpano Antico 20ml 6 Barrel Soda Pomegranate & Cherry 20ml Fresh Orange Juice Hickory Smoke Shake and double strain into coupe, smoke with hickory smoke and serve.

CLAN GOLD Good Morning Scotland 60ml Clan Gold 20ml Fresh Lemon Juice 1 Barspoon Orange Marmalade 3 Dashes Orange Citrate Bitters 5 Dashes Angostura Bitters Egg White Dry shake then with ice, Strain into fancy rocks. Garnish with Grapefruit Peel and Cracked Pepper

BLACK GROUSE Not One To Grouse...

40ml Black Grouse 20ml Punt e Mes 6 Dashes Peychauds Bitterrs 10ml 6 Barrel Soda Kola Nut Stirred then strained into stemmed cocktail glass, Garnish Flamed Orange oil

MONKEY SHOULDER Served Up 60ml Monkey Shoulder 20ml 6 Barrel Soda Kola Nut Dash Vanilla Bitters Dash Orange Cream Citrate Bitters Stirred then strained into stemmed cocktail glass, Garnish Orange Peel

CHIVAS 18 Whiskey Ice & Some Things Nice 60ml Chivas 18 30ml Plum Wine 10ml Sugar Syrup 5ml Absinthe Makers Mark Rinse Rinse the inside of a stemmed cocktail glass with makers mark, stir the ingredients down in a mixing glass, discard makers and strain the mixed ingredients into stemmed cocktail glass, garnish with either orange or grapefruit peel

58 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

Go on our Facebook page and ‘like’ the panel tasting and be in to win some of the Star of the Show from each tasting.

Simply like our page and you can win samples of the Star of the Show for the outlet you work for (Entrants must be 18 or older to enter).

Product will be delivered by the supplier to the outlet specified.

feature. Hawkes Bay

Getting the best of the Bay

By Don Kavanagh

If there is one sure sign that the harvest is in, the wine is fermenting and that all is well with the world, it’s the arrival of the annual Hot Red Hawke’s Bay Wine Expo.

A flagship event on the wine calendar, the expo offers a chance to taste some of the best reds in the country – and a few whites as well – from the various sub-regions of Hawke’s Bay, all gathered together in one convenient spot. It’s a must-do for the trade and this year’s event was no exception, with 21 wineries showing off more than 160 wines, covering every base from the

everyday by-the-glass option to some of the most expensive wines in the country.

It started in an odd fashion, with a policeman gathering the exhibitors together in the centre of the hall at the Viaduct Events Centre and emphasising the need to strictly adhere to the licensing laws – no serving of intoxicated patrons being the core message.

It was odd that he felt the need to literally lay down the law at this event, as it has been one of the best-run wine expos going since its inception back in 2004 and in the last eight years that I have been attending I’ve never seen so much as an incident, never mind a cause for alarm.

Still, it’s what Auckland has to put up with these days, given the current area

Gimblett Rd. Images - Richard Brimer

August july july2013 2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 59

feature. Hawkes Bay

Hot Red Hawke’s police commander’s missionary zeal in discouraging alcohol from the waterfront and downtown. At least there was only one cop at this event, unlike the lines of uniformed scowlers who lined the entrance to a beer festival at the Cloud a couple of years ago.

Anyway, once the legal formalities were over and the business of the day could begin, it was obvious what the buzz was in the Bay – the 2013 vintage.

Some have been comparing it favourably to the 1983 and 1998 vintages, but most have acclaimed it as a stand-alone vintage that will make the best wines yet from this country. So, no pressure on the winemakers, then.

The vintage was certainly a stunner, with good conditions for fruit set and a great ripening season that saw long stretches of consistently brilliant grape-growing

weather. Hot, dry, sunny days and cooler nights, with little swing in temperature extremes making for near-perfect growing conditions and it’s a vintage that will be savoured not just by the consumers, but by producers the length of the country.

“It’s certainly going to put a bit of pressure on, that’s for sure,” Crossroads winemaker Miles Dinneen said. “It’s going to be tricky for whoever doesn’t make great wine, so there’s probably a bit of nerves out there.”

Paul Ham from Alpha Domus echoed Dineen’s sentiments, but still had a smile on his face as he thought about the wine resting gently in the barrels in Hawke’s Bay. “I think the fruit (from 2013) is exceptional and I think there will be some exceptional wine. But we’ve got to get through the ‘11s and ‘12s first before we can really start selling the ‘13s.”

It will certainly be a few years before

60 . Hospitality/Thirst . july february August 20132012 2013

we get to try the finished product, but the barrel samples I’ve tasted have been glorious and the first actual wine from the 2013 vintage I’ve tried – a Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc – has been so packed with flavour that it’s a wonder the bottle didn’t explode. With improved winemaking, better viticulture, better clones and older vines, 2013 will genuinely be the vintage of a lifetime.

But back to the present – or at least the current vintages – and there were some new stars on show as well as the return of some classic old stagers.

I can’t write about this event without mentioning Clearview, whose top wines were on display and busy stealing the show.

The 2009 Endeavour Chardonnay is so good that it actually distracts you from the $250 a bottle retail price tag, with a dizzying level of complexity and pure

feature. Hawkes Bay

s Bay Wine Expo. f lavours. Meanwhile, the 2009 Basket Press (completely Cabernet Sauvignon for this vintage) has so much going on that it takes a good half hour to drink a small glass. It’s a marvel and $160 retail is not overdoing it.

Tim Turvey was his usual ebullient self, idly speculating how much he’d be able to charge for his 2013 wines, but he was pretty keen to put all the excitement about 2013 in perspective. “We’ve got other wine to enjoy now, so I think we’ll keep the speculation about 2013 until the wines come. I find that usually works.”

Church Road also had the big guns out, with a stunning Grand Reserve Syrah that would make any Australian Shiraz producer weep into his beer mug. Brawny but elegant, style backed up by strength, it’s a wonderful wine that you probably need to order right now if you want to get

your hands on it. At a less rarefied level, the 2010 McDonald Series Marzemino is a darling of a wine, with floral, spicy notes and incredible depth of flavour and it also has the advantage of being both affordable and available.

Crossroads’ Winemakers Collection Cabernet Franc 2010 was another standout; mouth-watering and more-ish with a fantastic balance of ripe fruit and spice, while Elephant Hill’s Hieronymus Merlot Malbec also sticks out; it’s just a beautiful wine that satisfies without being showy about it.

It was good to see Te Awa back on the circuit following their purchase by Villa Maria. Their Chardonnay was always a little cracker and the 2010 vintage is no different, with classic rich flavours and aromas.

It’s a little unfair to single out a few wines

Gimblett Rd.

for praise, though, since there wasn’t a bad one among them. Sure, there were wines that I preferred more than others, but that was purely a personal thing. From traditional Hawke’s Bay wines like the Mills Reef Elspeth Cabernet Merlot to Trinity Hill’s glorious Tempranillo and even Sileni’s higher-altitude Pinot Noir, there is a lot of genuinely great wine to be had from Hawke’s Bay and that’s just the reds. Add in the Chardonnays, Viogniers, Pinot Gris and, yes, even Sauvignon Blanc, and you’ve got a wine region that really can do it all.

The only difficulty anyone could have at Hot Red Hawke’s Bay this year was choosing your path – clockwise or anticlockwise, whites first or as they come – it wasn’t easy with so much good wine on offer, but I made the effort for you readers.

And, boy, am I glad I did.

August july july2013 2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 61

The Panel. Pinot Gris

Go on our Facebook page and ‘like’ the panel tasting and be in to win some of the Star of the Show from each tasting.

Simply like our page and you can win samples of the Star of the Show for the outlet you work for (Entrants must be 18 or older to enter).

Product will be delivered by the supplier to the outlet specified.

Looking for the The perfect beer pear essentials Beer is still the major beverage of the hospitality industry, despite the rise of wine and the inroads made by premium spirits. In fact, with the rise in the craft brewing scene, beer is getting even more popular.

By Don Kavanagh

Whether it’s craft, mainstream or imported, is everywhere at the anddifferent eliminatingexamples the effect that When I was beer invited to taste 20-odd oflabelling pinot and preconception carry moment. when buying beer. gris, I actually had to think quite hard about it.

The range of styles has ballooned from as fairly limited lager/ It’s a sad truth, but most people choose a beer based on packaging draught selection 10 years ago the full complement of beer styles. and perceived quality rather than judging a beer by what it tastes Today we can enjoy crisp pilsners, IPAs and rich coffee-like like.

Blind tasting is ahave great leveller andtoit’sit and also often an interesting Not because I dislike pinot gris –hoppy after all what is there to dislike to pretty much always a scent of pear not much dark and stouts. been aberemarkable renaissance. thing tothe do thought in a bar of forbanging your customers. how many – butales because I knewIt’s it could a bit of a challenge.

Again, this else. So out almostIt’s twoamazing dozen tasting notes has nothing to do with pinot se, but who everything to do with Much of that is down to thegris craftper brewers, have championed brand drinkers won’t able to to pick usualdegree drop was out of without overusing the be word pear an their alarming alsoa styles of pinot gris. challenging. niche styles and proved that New Zealand beer can be as varied line-up of similar beers. Do it as a challenge and make it a feature Pinot gris is aaspopular wine, with pretty much everyone trying I’ve never backed from a challenge,that andthey I’m and rewarding any other country’s offerings. ofNevertheless, your bar; men particularly aredown so uber-competitive their hand at it. The problem no definitivecraft styleand of glad Ibe didable the to tasting won’t resist.after all. Partly because drinking good wine It was gratifying, then, to seeisa that nice there mix ofismainstream, isOf never reallyblind a chore and can partly because I discovered a strange imported onnot offer in our latestZealand, tasting. With 36 Traditionally, beers on offer, course, tasting cause issues for professionals as pinot gris,beers at least here in New anyway. thingwith aboutsome pinotinteresting gris – it doesn’t like higher levels. there surely something everyone that’s how oilier, it should be. well, picks really as to which beer alcohol was which. it haswas been made in one offortwo styles and – the richer, more Another wasthis made duringwines this lost tasting as There was some level discussion, you’d expect with complex stylealso of Alsace, whereoffruit and spiceascombine to produce All three thing tastersthat noticed – theapparent higher alcohol a little well wasaroma the age some bottled beers being offered for sale. It elegant wineson ofthe great class,This and month the simpler, drier style by that the two brewers Panel. we were joined Keith of their andofflavour in comparison with the lower-strength Italians callwhose pinot eponymous grigio.

Galbraith, alehouse in Auckland has long been ones.

It didn’t needof tothe be beers a big jump in alcohol, half passing a percentage was clear that some we tried were rapidly their a New meccaZealand, for beerthough, lovers. Alongside Keith was covers Shane the Morley from pointwhich was enough to slightly unbalance theyou’d winesexpect and some of the best, was disappointing, given that people to makes pinot gris that spectrum the Company, anrich, award-winning brewer. styles fleshy flavours and forward aromas were out, this. leaving were put their best foot in asstripped tasting like So what it pays to fromSteam crisp,Brewing dry and lean wines to almost overpowering effectively almost whites. check the dates onnondescript, any beer yougeneric order, dry as it’s counter-productive What was cases interesting about having two brewers on the Pinot Panel that in some (the first Church Road MacDonald Series wasbeer heldtoatyour the lovely Winehot, a great little wine toThis try totasting sell stale customers. was their on ability pick outwine. technical f laws in Gris,not for necessarily example) verged beingtoa dessert bar in Kingsland and owner JulieninLe joined Dave Batten This month’s tasting was held theQuere malt-scented surrounds Thisbut is their both adiffering good thing a bad thing.

It’sand, goodparticularly, because it beer ideasand about beer styles andGalbraith’s myself for the tasting.and Thiswe’d was excellent as, quite apart offersconstituted a huge choice styles thestage retailer andwas thequite customer and what an of IPA. Attoone there a voluble of Alehouse like to thank Keith forfrom his conversation on over whether a certain beer was an generosity in he letting use theLewisham place. We’d also likeof to bad for exactlygoing the same reason; people get confused andactually can often being French, is alsousa former Sommelier thethank Year, IPA or should more accurately describedidea as aof New World Shane Morley for giving his afternoon to drink beer and Matt be annoyed bybe finding that one winery’s pinot gris Pale is notAle. in so he certainly knows hisup wines. the leastwere like the they hadinteresting bought previously.

We’d to thank for job joining uspouring and alsoand for serving the use of There alsoone some other facets of the tasting. We Kelly forlike doing such aJulien sterling of the wonderful bar to hold the tasting in. ahis confusing number of beers. carried the problem tasting out blind, no one knew Another from mymeaning point of view was thatwhat pinotwas griscoming tends 62 . Hospitality/Thirst . july JANUARY August 20132012 2013

Food for Thought.

The Panel.

Pinot Gris Carpene Main Divide MALVOLTI Pinot Gris Riserva 2012 ***Star An Italianof brandy the Show*** made in the French Another style rather higher thanstrength the grappa wine,style. but one Full that of sweet has been fruit and handled polished with great woodfinesse on to theproduce nose, while a wine thethat palate manages showsto soft carry the fruitextra notesgrunt. of banana Big pear andflesh marshmallow notes dominate and a touch theofnose wood, andbefore the generous finishing flavours dry. Plenty continue of flavour on the forpalate, cocktail with real weight making.and texture backed by sweet pear PDP $$$ and balancing acid. The finish is long A Touch and of impressive, Italy with a lovely spicy note.

Phone: 0800 4 286 824 sales@touchofitaly.co.nz $$ www.eatily.co.nz Pegasus Bay Wines Phone: 314 6869 ed@pegasusbay.com www.pegasusbay.com KWV Brandy A five-year-old brandy from South Africa and a real charmer. This consistently punches above its weight, offering sweet, fat fruit on the nose and lovely dried grape flavours.

Finishes nicely, keeping its basic elements in sweet harmony.

PDP $$$ Federal Geo Ltd Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz www.federalgeo.co.nz

★STAR of the SHOW

Janneau Armagnac 8YO An eight-year-old Armagnac and displaying all the quality of the region.

Complex aromas of wood, fruit, spice and even a touch of sandalwood turn into flavours of citrus, pepper and even a hint of cinnamon on the palate. Classic Armagnac and a very classy drink.

Also available in 12YO, 18YO, 25YO. PDP $$$$$ Federal Geo Ltd Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz Aronui 2012 Single Vineyard www.federalgeo.co.nz Nelson Pinot Gris Shy on the nose, with none of the typical pear aromas, offering a JOHANNESHOF EDELBRAND pleasant dried grass note instead.

GRAPE The pearBRANDY makes an appearance A made right here in New onbrandy the palate, with both pear flesh Zealand the wrapped pressingsaround left and skin from flavours over from the winery’s award- to a a warm alcoholic core, leading winning There’sfinish. a hint of long andwines. pronounced gewürztraminer in this one, with ripe fruit aromas and a touch of $$$$ honeysuckle. Smooth and smoky on the palate and a lovely crisp finish.

Kono Beverages PDP $$$$ Phone: 0800 864 894 North Island, Co-Pilot Distributors beverages@kono.co.nz Steve Caplan www.kono.co.nz Phone: 09 412 9137 steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz South Island, Hop & Vine Terry Mitchell

Phone: Roaring 03 342 Meg3228 Central info@hopandvine.co.nz Otago Pinot Gris 2012 A lovely pinot gris, with an almost sauvignon-like nose; tropical fruit aromas dominate, with a little ripe pear Hine VSOP underneath.

On Cognac, the palate it broadens Quite a different with an out considerably, with great weight, incredibly warm, rich cereal note nice fruit and an almost spritzing touch on the nose, almost like walking and aa grain warm, longThat finish. into store. fades on the palate, leaving a lovely raisiny $$$ flavour, backed up by acetone and a touch of menthol. The finish Lion the nose with nice earthy recalls Phone: 0800 107 272 tones. sales@lion.co.nz PDP $$$$$ www.lionco.com Federal Geo Ltd Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz www.federalgeo.co.nz

Courvoisier VSOP The standard-bearer of the Cognac Exiled Pinot Gris world and it’s hard to2012 argue. Classically Waiheke’s Manowar makes smooth, elegant nose, full ofserious raisins, wines and this is noofexception.

Plenty of caramel and a hint spice, followed fruit on lush the nose, but also nice nutty by rich, dark fruit and aspice note andacross the merest hint ofRightly sea breeze flavours the palate. well, while thethis palate is huge, with aasmarket leader, is more stylish big, oily fruitRoyce flavours a long, spicy than a Rolls fulland of French finish. supermodels.

PDP $$$$$ $$$$ New Zealand Beam Phone: 09 915 8444 Eurovintage info@beamglobal.com Phone: 0800 338 766 www.beamglobal.com info@eurovintage.co.nz www.eurovintage.co.nz Sessantanni Grappa di Primitivo 500ml Made from the lees of primitive (zinfandel) wine, this has a real smell of the still about it; coppery, grapey and carrying a touch of smoke. A big grappa on the palate, with the red grape flavours coming through before aGreystone sweetish finish thatDollar doesn’t outstay Sand its welcome.

Pinot Gris 2012 PDP $$$$ A quite different wine to its stablemate, A Touch of Italy with a shyer nose and a more obvious Phone: 0800 4 acid content.

It 286 hits 824 the palate dry and sales@touchofitaly.co.nz stays that way, offering steely mineral www.eatily.co.nz notes and green apple touches before a tart finish. A good seafood partner. $$$ JOHANNESHOF EAU DE VIE D’EMMI GRAPPA Made Kahurangi from Estate the lees Limited of Johanneshof’s brilliant Phone: 03 bubbly, 543 2980 this reflects its origins, with assistant@kahurangiwine.com a lean, racy, citrus hit on the nose, followed www.greystonewines.co.nz by a fiery burst of spirit on the palate. That cools to leave a tingly, peppery citric glow in the mouth.

PDP $$$ North Island, Co-Pilot Distributors Steve Caplan Phone: 09 412 9137 JANUARY August july2013 2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 63

Food for Thought.

Food for Thought.

The Panel.

Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac.

The Panel.

Pinot Gris Greystone Pinot Gris 2012 Archetypoal gris from a winery that really loves its aromatics. Perfect pear flesh and riverstone aromas lead into a lush, generous palate with good fruit notes and crisp acid. The finish is lovely, with good length and a nice touch of stewed apple.

Lynfer Estate Pinot Gris 2012 Very fruit-driven on the nose, this has lashings of pear and even a touch of feijoa aroma and a slightly creamy character. On the palate, it’s not as expressive, but the fat fruit sits nicely with the crisp acid, which continues through the finish.

$$$

$$

Kahurangi Estate Limited Phone: 03 543 2980 assistant@kahurangiwine.com www.greystonewines.co.nz

Lynfer Estate Ltd Phone: 04 528 2007 lynfer@clear.net.nz www.lynferestate.co.nz

Rabbit Ranch Pinot Gris 2012 Good gris with a slightly funky note on the nose that adds interest and almost gives it a nutty character. The palate has pear and honey notes backed by a steely acidity and riverstone characters that become pronounced on the finish.

Brancott Estate Special Reserve Marlborough Pinot Gris 2012 Very typical gris nose, with plenty of pear and apple aromas. The palate is surprisingly generous, with broad fruit flavours and a touch of spice towards the back of the palate. The flavours are nicely balanced by a crisp acidity that echoes through the finish.

$$ Rabbit Ranch Winery Phone: 03 442 6110 warren@rabbitranch.co.nz www.rabbitranch.co.nz

$$$$ Pernod Ricard New Zealand Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Mission Fete A sparkling wine made from a blend of pinot gris and chardonnay and it comes across like a good prosecco, with generous apple and pear aromas and a lovely crisp apple note on the palate.

The finish has good length and a touch of dark fruit.

Brancott Estate Letter Series ‘F’ Marlborough Pinot Gris 2012 Stylish nose with nothing really sticking out – just a seamless mix of pear, apple, spice and riverstone aromas. On the palate the minerality is more noticeable, while the fruit takes a back seat.

Wonderful long finish that haves you wanting more.

$$$ Mission Estate Winery Phone: 06 845 9350 orders@missionestate.co.nz www.missionestate.co.nz

Perseverance Pinot Gris Plenty of bottle-age characters starting to come through on the nose in this wine, with fruit very much a secondary consideration. On the palate, it’s a lean mean machine with grassy notes, some citrus hints and a good whack of acidity.

$$$$$ Pernod Ricard New Zealand Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Brancott Estate Flight Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 A lower-alcohol style that makes for a good lunchtime wine. Bright and forward on the nose, with plenty of pear drop and nashi pear notes, the palate is full of sweet fruit and mouthwatering acidity before a somewhat short but pleasant finish.

$$$ $$$$ Perseverance Estate info@perseverance.co.nz www.perseverance.co.nz

64 . Hospitality/Thirst . july february August 20132012 2013

Pernod Ricard New Zealand Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Food for Thought.

The Panel.

Pinot Gris Carpene MALVOLTI Stoneleigh Latitude Riserva Marlborough An Pinot Italian Gris brandy 2012 made in the French style Described ratherby than onethe taster grappa as a style. “technical” Full of wine, sweet thisfruit doesand offer polished some quite wood on the complex nose, flavours while the and palate aromas. shows The soft nose fruit has stewed notes of fruit banana and spice and marshmallow notes, while and the palate a touch heads of wood, for abefore leaner,finishing steely dry. direction Plenty before of flavour finishing for cocktail quite quickly. making.

PDP $$$$$$$ A Touch of Italy Phone: Pernod 0800 Ricard4New 286 Zealand 824 sales@touchofitaly.co.nz Phone: 0800 655 550 www.eatily.co.nz customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

KWV Stoneleigh BrandyRapaura Series A five-year-old brandy South Marlborough Pinotfrom Gris 2012 Africa Very true-to-type and a real charmer. pinot gris, This with nice consistently above its weight, pear aromaspunches and a touch of spice. offering Plenty tosweet, offer on fatthe fruit palate, on thetoo, nose with and big pear lovely and dried tropical grapefruit flavours. characters Finishes predominating. nicely, keeping The finish itsisbasic cracker, elements in sweet long and lush, withharmony. a hint of mango and PDP citrus. $$$ Federal Geo Ltd Phone: $$$$$ 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz Pernod Ricard New Zealand www.federalgeo.co.nz Phone: 0800 655 550 customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Janneau Armagnac Triplebank Awatere8YO An eight-year-old Armagnac Valley Pinot Gris 2012 and displaying all the quality of the region.

Atypical pinot gris with more emphasis Complex aromas wood, spice on citrus notes onofthe nose,fruit, balanced and by even a touch of aroma. sandalwood out a nice honey This isturn a real into flavours of citrus, pepper and even food wine, offering plenty of mineral a hint and of cinnamon the palate.

Classic notes subduedon fruit and one that Armagnac very aclassy drink. would workand wella with variety of dishes.

Also available in 12YO, 18YO, 25YO. PDP $$$$$ Federal Geo Ltd $$$$ Phone: 0800 824 Pernod Ricard846 New Zealand federalgeo@xtra.co.nz Phone: 0800 655 550 www.federalgeo.co.nz customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com www.pernod-ricard-nz.com JOHANNESHOF EDELBRAND GRAPE BRANDY Church Road McDonald Series A brandy made right here in2012 New Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris Zealand from theits pressings left this Much dryer than predecessor, over from the winery’s awardhas an almost smoky, flinty note on the winning wines. hint of nose to go withThere’s the nicea pear aroma. gewürztraminer this one, with Broad and mouthinfilling, it has great ripe fruitand aromas and a touch of texture the flavours of poached honeysuckle.

Smooth and smoky on pear, ripe apple and riverstone make the a lovely crisp finish. this palate a very and Alsatian style of gris.

PDP $$$$ North $$$$$Island, Co-Pilot Distributors Steve Caplan Phone: 412 9137 Pernod 09 Ricard New Zealand steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz Phone: 0800 655 550 South Island, Hop & Vine customer.services@pernod-ricard-nz.com Terry Mitchell www.pernod-ricard-nz.com

Phone: Yealands 03 342 Estate 3228 Single info@hopandvine.co.nz BlackR6 Pinot Gris 2012 Reminiscent of Griggio showing a less generous fruit nose yet more tantalising in theVSOP hints. Marvellous minerality Hine perfect balance Cognac, of fruit, texture, Quite a different with an acid, and higher alcohol dominating incredibly warm, richnot cereal note makes this aalmost perfect partner for a nice on the nose, like walking piece of pork. into a grain store. That fades on the palate, leaving a lovely raisiny $$$ flavour, backed up by acetone and a touch of menthol. The finish Yealands Group recalls theWine nose with nice earthy Phone: 09 920 2880 tones. www.yealandsestate.co.nz PDP $$$$$ Federal Geo Ltd Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz Yealands Estate Land Made www.federalgeo.co.nz Series Pinot Gris 2012 Lush, focused identifiable Marlborough fruit notes – yet more hints of Nashi than classical pear on the nose. The Courvoisier VSOP flavours follow through withCognac hints The standard-bearer of the of winter overlaying a palate world andspice it’s hard to argue.

Classically generouselegant of texture and smooth, nose, fullweight. of raisins, caramel and a hint of spice, followed $$rich, lush dark fruit and spice by flavours across the palate. Rightly Wine Group aYealands market leader, this is more stylish Phone: 09 920 2880 than a Rolls Royce full of French www.yealandsestate.co.nz supermodels.

PDP $$$$$ Beam New Zealand Phone: 09 915 8444 Kate Radburnd Sun Kissed info@beamglobal.com Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2012 www.beamglobal.com Low-ish alcohol, but tons of flavour in this Hawke’s Bay wine. Floral nose that’s almost gewurz-like Sessantanni Grappa with a hint of Primitivo rose petals 500ml and Turkish delight. The di floral vibe the palate, Made fromcontinues the lees ofon primitive combined with a (zinfandel) wine,ripe thisfruit has notes a real and smell zesty, lemony finish. of the still about it; coppery, grapey and carrying a touch of smoke. A big $$$ grappa on the palate, with the red grape flavours coming through before Spiritdoesn’t & Beeroutstay aHancocks sweetish Wine, finish that Phone: 0800 699 463 its welcome. sales@hancocks.co.nz PDP $$$$ www.hancocks.co.nz A Touch of Italy Phone: 0800 4 286 824 sales@touchofitaly.co.nz www.eatily.co.nz

JOHANNESHOF EAU DE VIE D’EMMI GRAPPA Made from the lees of Johanneshof’s brilliant bubbly, this reflects its origins, with a lean, racy, citrus hit on the nose, followed by a fiery burst of spirit on the palate.

That cools to leaveGUIDE a tingly, WINE TRADE PRICE excl GST peppery citric glow in the mouth. (per 750ml bottle): PDP $$$ $$$$$ - 30 and up • $$$$ - 20-30 North Island, Co-Pilot • $$$ - 15-20Distributors • $$ - 10-15 • $ - <10 Steve Caplan Phone: 09 412 9137 JANUARY August july2013 2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 65

The Panel. Cider

Go on our Facebook page and ‘like’ the panel tasting and be in to win some of the Star of the Show from each tasting.

Simply like our page and you can win samples of the Star of the Show for the outlet you work for (Entrants must be 18 or older to enter).

Product will be delivered by the supplier to the outlet specified.

My how quickly

things change.

It wasn’t that long ago that cider was a dark, dusty corner of the drinks sector, dull, uninspired and frankly something of a joke. What a difference a decade can make. By DON KAVANAGH

Since cider took off overseas, the New Zealand cider scene has blossomed, with more producers coming into the picture and – crucially – more styles becoming apparent. Where once it was all off-dry pale yellow 4% ABV apple juice, these days you don’t know what you’re going to find in your bottle.

The craft beer revolution has helped a lot, of course, as it broadened beer drinkers’ palates and readied them to try some outside-the-square flavours. And cider makers have surely taken that idea to new levels.

And while it’s true that I was once a strict traditionalist when it comes to cider (and still like dryer, more farmhouse styles of apple cider as a personal preference) I have been swayed by the sheer exuberance of f lavour that you find in modern ciders.

And certainly the number of people drinking f lavoured ciders means that what was once seen as a bit oddball and out-there is now the new mainstream.

It was quite early in the day when Dave Batten and I sat down to taste test this line up of ciders, but neither the earliness of the hour nor the coldness of the day could discourage us as we drank our cider in the most traditional way possible – sitting around a kitchen table and arguing. Cheers.

66 . Hospitality/Thirst . july JANUARY August 20132012 2013

Weka Apple Cider Fantastic nose on this one, full of ripe apple and oak and a little hint of funky farmyard aromas. Very upfront and definite on the palate, ★STAR with plenty of palate weight and carrying strong apple characters, backed up by a nice seasoning of oak and a good level of acidity. Great integration and continuity from the lively nose to the crisp finish and a classic style of cider. $$$ Treasury Wine Estates Phone: 0800 651 650 info@moabeer.com www.tweglobal.com

Weka Pear Cider Fantastic colour and lovely, rich pear aromas here. Quite dry on the palate, with plenty of pear and touches of tropical fruit notes in the background.

Good acid levels give a crisp, dry finish, laced with pear and even some apple flavours. $$$ Treasury Wine Estates Phone: 0800 651 650 info@moabeer.com www.tweglobal.com

of the SHOW

for Thought.

TheFood Panel.

Cider Old MoutMALVOLTI Boysencider Carpene Riserva A surprisingly good mix in ofthe cider and An Italian brandy made French boysenberry wine, the berry style. notes Full style rather than the grappa really lift fruit the nose, with lushwood red wineof sweet and polished on like nose, notes.while On the tart soft the thepalate, palatethe shows boysenberry balanced by fruit notes of flavour bananaisand marshmallow rounded apple notes and it finishes and a touch of wood, before finishing well,Plenty leavingofyou wanting more. dry. flavour for cocktail making. $$$ $$$ PDP Redwood A Touch ofCider Italy Co. Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243 377) 4 286 824 contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz sales@touchofitaly.co.nz www.redwoodcider.co.nz www.eatily.co.nz

Old Mout Passionfruit & Cider A blend of cider with passionfruit KWV Brandy wine, the passionfruit A five-year-old brandycertainly from South makes its presence felt, with a zingy Africa and a real charmer.

This bittersweetness on the palate, consistently punches above its backed weight, up by nice green offering sweet, fatapple fruit notes. on the The nose and flavours work well together, integrating and lovely lovely dried dried grape grape flavours. flavours.

Finishes nicely and leaving a niceits crisp finish.

Finishes nicely, keeping nicely, its keeping basic elements basic in elements sweet harmony. in sweet harmony. $$$ $$$ PDP Redwood Cider Federal Geo LtdCo. CIDERS Phone: 0800 846 824(243 377) contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz federalgeo@xtra.co.nz www.redwoodcider.co.nz www.federalgeo.co.nz

Monteiths Crushed Apple Cider One of the first of the renaissance ciders and Armagnac certainly the 8YO first from a Janneau major brewery, this quickly set about An eight-year-old Armagnac and winning fans its clean, apple displaying all with the quality of crisp the region. and soft wood flavours andfruit, dry finish.

Complex aromas of wood, spice A simple buta very effective drink. turn and even touch of sandalwood into flavours of citrus, pepper and even $$ a hint of cinnamon on the palate. Classic Redwood Cider Armagnac and aCo. very classy drink.

Phone: 0800 CIDERS 377) Also available in 12YO,(243 18YO, 25YO. contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz PDP $$$$$ www.redwoodcider.co.nz Federal Geo Ltd Phone: 0800 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz www.federalgeo.co.nz Monteiths Crushed Pear Cider This has always been a mildly flavoured cider, with gentleEDELBRAND hints of pear and JOHANNESHOF even a little cherry on the nose. It’s not GRAPE BRANDY a hard thing to drink pear A brandy made right with heremild in New flavours backed by a zingy Zealand from theup pressings leftacidity over and afrom lovely frothy mouthfeel. over from the winery’s the winery’s award-winning awardwines. winningawines.

There’s hint ofThere’s gewürztraminer a hint of in this $$ with ripe fruit gewürztraminer one, in this aromas one,and witha touch Redwood Cider Smooth Co. ripe of honeysuckle. fruit aromas and a touch and smoky of on Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243 377) honeysuckle. the palate andSmooth a lovelyand crisp smoky finish.on contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz the PDP palate $$$$ and a lovely crisp finish. www.redwoodcider.co.nz PDP North $$$$ Island, Co-Pilot Distributors North Caplan Steve Island, Co-Pilot Distributors Steve Caplan Phone: 09 412 9137 Phone: 09 412 9137 steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz CIDERHop TRADE PRICE GUIDE excl GST steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz South Island, & Vine (per bottle) SouthMitchell Terry Island, Hop &$$$$$ Vine - 4 and up • $$$$ - 3-4 $$$ -2-33228 • $$ - 1.50-2 • $ -1.50 and under Terry•Mitchell Phone: 03 342

Monteiths Crushed info@hopandvine.co.nz Phone: 03 342 3228 Summer Berries Cider info@hopandvine.co.nz Bright berryfruit nose with plenty of raspberry/boysenberry notes and a hint Hine VSOP of apple.

Lively Cognac, and tart with on the Quite Hine aVSOP different an palate, combining berry sweetness with incredibly Quite a different warm, rich Cognac, cereal with note an crisp acidity forwarm, aalmost lovely little drink. on incredibly the nose, rich like cereal walking note into on the a grain nose, store. almost That like fades walking on the intopalate, a grainleaving store. That a lovely fades raisiny on $$$palate, flavour, the backed leaving up by a lovely acetone raisiny and flavour, a touch backed of menthol. up by acetone The finish Redwood Cider Co.niceThe recalls and a touch the nose of menthol. with earthy finish Phone:the 0800 (243 377) tones. recalls noseCIDERS with nice earthy contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz PDP tones. $$$$$ www.redwoodcider.co.nz Federal PDP $$$$$ Geo Ltd Phone: Federal0800 Geo Ltd 846 824 federalgeo@xtra.co.nz Phone: 0800 846 824 www.federalgeo.co.nz federalgeo@xtra.co.nz Rekorderlig Cider Premium www.federalgeo.co.nz Orange-Ginger A lovely blend of real ginger and orange peel onVSOP the nose, this broadens Courvoisier on the palate, offering of tangy The Courvoisier standard-bearer VSOPof plenty the Cognac orange peel andCognac a lovely world The standard-bearer and it’scharacters hard to argue. of the Classically gingerand warmth.

Very balance of smooth, world elegant it’s hard nose, to nice argue. full of raisins, Classically flavoursand andaexcellent weight and body caramel smooth, elegant hint nose, of spice, full offollowed raisins, by before lingering, more-ish finish.

Very rich, caramel lushaand dark afruit hint and of spice, spicefollowed flavours nicely put together cider. across by rich,the lush palate. dark Rightly fruit anda spice market $$$$$this leader, flavours across is more thestylish palate.than Rightly a Rolls Cider Co. Royce aRedwood market full leader, of French thissupermodels. is more stylish Phone: 0800 CIDERS 377) PDP than $$$$$ a Rolls Royce full (243 of French contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz Beam supermodels.

New Zealand www.redwoodcider.co.nz Phone: PDP $$$$$ 09 915 8444 info@beamglobal.com Beam New Zealand www.beamglobal.com Phone: 09 915 8444 info@beamglobal.com Rekorderlig Cider www.beamglobal.com Premium Winter Designed to beGrappa served hot or cold, Sessantanni this works best hot, where the vanilla di Primitivo 500ml and cinnamon characters come across Made Sessantanni from the lees Grappa of primitive more obviously.

The has nose all smell about (zinfandel) di Primitivo wine, 500ml this a is real the apple, but in primitive the mouth, the of Made the still from about the once lees it; coppery, of grapey vanilla comes first, followed byA an and (zinfandel) carrying wine, a touch this of has smoke. a real smell big echo cinnamon the finish.

Perfect grappa of theof still on the about palate, it; on coppery, with thegrapey red winter drinking. grape and carrying flavours acoming touch ofthrough smoke.before A big $$$$$ agrappa sweetish onfinish the palate, that doesn’t with the outstay red Redwood Cidercoming Co. its grape welcome. flavours through before 0800 CIDERS (243 377) PDP aPhone: sweetish $$$$ finish that doesn’t outstay contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz Aits Touch welcome. of Italy www.redwoodcider.co.nz Phone: PDP $$$$ 0800 4 286 824 sales@touchofitaly.co.nz A Touch of Italy www.eatily.co.nz Phone: 0800 4 286 824 sales@touchofitaly.co.nz Rekorderlig Cider Premium www.eatily.co.nz Strawberry-Lime Interesting blendEAU of flavours, with JOHANNESHOF DE plenty of strawberry VIE D’EMMI GRAPPA character, even if the lime does aof little Made from the get lees Johanneshof’s JOHANNESHOF EAU DE lost. The nose is allD’EMMI strawberry icereflects block and brilliant bubbly, this its some origins, VIE GRAPPA fresh while theonlime with a strawberry, lean, citrus hit themakes nose, Made from racy, the lees of Johanneshof’s a cameobubbly, appearance onof the finish, followed by a fiery burst spirit on brilliant this reflects its origins, adding a citric tang totoahit big the palate.

That cools leave a tingly, with a lean, racy, citrus onstrawberry the nose, experience. peppery citric glow burst in theof mouth. followed by a fiery spirit on $$$$$ PDP $$$ That cools to leave a tingly, the palate.

Redwood Cider Co. inDistributors North Island, Co-Pilot peppery citric glow the mouth.

Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243 377) Steve Caplan PDP $$$ contactus@redwoodcider.co.nz Phone: 09 412Co-Pilot 9137 North Island, Distributors www.redwoodcider.co.nz steve@copilotdistributors.co.nz Steve Caplan South Island, Hop & Vine Phone: 09 412 9137 JANUARY August july2013 2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 67

Food for Thought.MATTERS. Opinion PRESSING

Five reasons

why wine tasting is junk science

Excerpts from: Wine-tasting: it’s junk science By David Derbyshire The Observer, June 23, 2013 The taste of colour Colour affects our perceptions too. In 2001 Frédéric Brochet of the University of Bordeaux asked 54 wine experts to test two glasses of wine – one red, one white.

Using the typical language of tasters, the panel described the red as “jammy’ and commented on its crushed red fruit.

The critics failed to spot that both wines were from the same bottle. The only difference was that one had been coloured red with a flavourless dye.

The taste of music More evidence that wine-tasting is influenced by context was provided by a 2008 study from Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh. The team found that different music could boost tasters’ wine scores by 60%. Researchers discovered that a blast of Jimi Hendrix enhanced Cabernet Sauvignon while Kylie Minogue went well with Chardonnay.

68 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

The taste of decay Is there a scientific basis for the belief that red wine does not go with seafood?

Researchers from Japanese drinks firm Mercian tested 64 varieties of wine with scallops, and concluded that the iron content of red wine speeded up the decay of fish, resulting in an overly ‘fishy’ taste.

The taste of weather Robert Parker is the world’s leading wine critic and his score is key to determining the price of a new vintage. But Orley Ashenfelter, a Princeton economist, invented a simple mathematical formula based on weather data to predict the price of vintages, which mimicked the predictions of Parker’s system.

The taste of bullshit In 2007, Richard E Quandt, a Princeton economics professor, published a paper entitled On Wine Bullshit: Some New

Software? The study sought to describe the “unholy union” of “bullshit and bullshit artists who are impelled to comment on it”, in this case wine and wine critics. Quandt compiled a “vocabulary of wine descriptors” containing 123 terms from “angular” to “violets” via other nonsense descriptions such as “fireplace” and “tannins, fine-grained”.

Then, with the help of colleagues, he built an algorithm that generated wine reviews of hypothetical wines using his “vocabulary of bullshit”. For instance: “Château L’Ordure Pomerol, 2004.

Fine minerality, dried apricots and cedar characterise this sage-laden wine bursting with black fruit and toasty oak.”

He concluded that whether his reviews were “any more bullshit” than real ones was a “judgment call”.

But sadly, he didn’t explore how long it would take a monkey to type a wine review.

Check out this month’s ‘Thirst’ Pinot Gris tasting pages 62-65.

WINE PIONEERS. Syrah

Dreams & follies of wine pioneers.

By D.Schuster

Since the 1970s, both Chris Canning and Bryan Mogridge forged their reputations on being pragmatic innovators within the New Zealand wine industry – Canning as owner/winemaker at the de Redcliffe winery and Hotel du Vin projects, Mogridge as the CEO of Montana and Chairman of the NZ Wine Institute.

Some thirty years later, these two friends decided on a retirement joint venture and established their Hay Paddock Vineyard on the slopes above Onetangi on Waiheke Island.

Their dream or folly was to produce a top-of-the-line single site and single variety red wine. The chosen variety was Syrah of the RhÒne fame with several clones and ‘selection massale’ vines planted on medium density spacing in the local clay/ volcanic base soils and dry farmed after the initial couple of years from planting in 2003. Since that time a small portion of the 5ha vineyard was also planted to Petit Verdot for blending their Petite Reserve second label wine.

Their first vintage was made in 2006 (all of 300 cases) and since that time the low cropping Hay Paddock Vineyard of moderate vigour has produced a string of remarkable wines, which in favourable vintages challenge the best of the local as well as the RhÒne versions from France.

As befits their cool climate origins, the Hay Paddock Syrah wines show great concentration of aromatic quality, depth of colour and complexity of f lavour, as well as ripe tannins in a long finish. Their structure and generosity of flavour suggests that ageing for 7-10 years in the bottle is by no means excessive, in fact will bring these wines to their best.

The tasting notes on the wines at the recent Hay Paddock 10 year anniversary lunch in Auckland’s waterfront Hilton Hotel demonstrated the vintage specific winemaking by Canning. Lesser vintages or plots have always been de-classified into second label (Harvest Man Syrah) or not made at all (2011).

Hay Paddock Silk Rose 2012 (****) Pale rose petal, bright colour, fresh, youthful aromas of red forest fruits/spice, lifted flavour with dry finish. Elegant, perfect lunch wine.

The Hay Paddock 2006 (****1/2) Deep colour and full bouquet, complex dark forest fruits, well integrated oak, hints of spice. Generous flavour, ample tannins, robust long finish. Not for the faint hearted.

The Hay Paddock 2007 (****1/2) Hint of candle flame in colour, leanerdeveloped and complex nose, forest floor dark fruits, high vinosity, ample fine grain tannins in lifted flavour, lots of charm – ready.

The Hay Paddock 2008 (****1/2) This wine has a great depth of colour, generous nose, high vinosity and opulence in flavour with ripe tannins and a robust finish.

The Hay Paddock Syrah 2009 (*****) Again deep coloured, ruby youthful rim, complex red/dark fruits, medium weight in flavour, finesse and lots of class is lifted with a long finish.

The Hay Paddock 2010 (*****) Youthful, dark ruby colour, complex nose of well ripened fruit, hints of forest f loor, well balanced in tannic f lavour, concentration in long finish. Should make great bottles in time.

The Hay Paddock Petit Verdot 2010 (****1/2) Depth in colour and generous bouquet, lifted aromatic flavours of dark fruits, fine grain tannins in long, firm finish.

One of the best examples of this variety tasted in a long time.

Chris Canning, winemaker.

Hay Paddock Waiheke.

NOVEMBER july2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 69

Food for Thought. The Law BUSINESS.

New Licensing Criteria Sale and Supply of Alcohol On June 18, 2013 new criteria for applications for all types of on-licences, off-licences, club licences and special licences commence and new transitional provisions for the renewal of existing licences commence.

District Licensing Authorities (DLAs) and the Alcohol Regulatory and Licensing Authority (ARLA) must have regard to these new criteria when making decisions about licence applications received after June 18, 2013.

In addition to the existing criteria for licences the new criteria that will apply to new and renewal applications from June 18, 2013 are: the object of the Act & whether granting the licence is likely to increase alcohol-related harm, the design and layout of the premises, whether the amenity and good order of the locality would be likely to be reduced to more than a minor extent by the effects of the issue of the licence, and whether the applicant has appropriate systems, staff, and training to comply with the law.

The changes are signif icant and introduce considerations on the impact of licensed premises on an area, the design and layout of the proposed premises, the licenseeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s compliance with the law and 70 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

the minimisation of alcohol-related harm.

The object of the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act is minimisation of alcoholrelated harm, and DLAs and ARLA must have regard to this when deciding whether to issue or renew a licence.

Design and layout can also help reduce alcohol-related harm occurring within licensed premises. For example, bar layout, seating, sound, lighting, access and a host of other design elements can be used to improve security, reduce tension and improve the atmosphere in licensed areas.

The amenity and good order of the locality is the extent to which, and ways in which the locality in which the premises are situated are pleasant and agreeable, including current and possible future noise levels, nuisance, vandalism and the number of licences already held and the general desirability of the issue of the licence, systems, staff, and training to comply with the law refers to the training of staff that work at the premises as well as any internal

polices and procedures that the licensee has in place to ensure compliance with the law. Examples include procedures for checking for minors, evidence of age and intoxicated persons and host responsibility matters including the promotion of food, water and non and low alcoholic beverages.

Applicants for licences and renewals will need to provide as much information on the licensing criteria as possible as part of their applications. DLAs must also have regard to the new provisions, even for unopposed

BUSINESS. The Law

applications. Licensing inspectors, police and medical officers of health will also need to have regard for the new criteria when reporting on applications.

The new criteria also provide communities with new grounds to oppose licence applications. Under the Act, a person may object to the issue or renewal of a licence based on the licensing criteria, provided they can establish a greater interest in the application than the public generally.

ARLA will continue to consider all opposed applications until December 18,

2013. This will allow time for case law to develop, which will help District Licensing Committees (DLCs) apply the criteria once they take over responsibility for most decision making with regard to the issue and renewal of licences in December 2013.

For uncontested licence applications filed on or after June 18, 2013, DLAs will have to consider the likelihood that the licence would be issued or renewed under the new Act even if otherwise eligible under the old Act. If the application is unlikely to be eligible under the new Act, the DLA (or

ARLA in the case of opposed applications) can grant or renew the licence but for a period ending no later than December 18, 2014. This is to allow time for affected businesses to change their business model to meet the requirements of the new Act. For more information on the changes to licensing criteria see our new resource -Â Licensing Criteria for the Sale and Supply of Alcohol, (you will need your membership number to login to your dashboard) or contact the Hospitality NZ National Service Centre on 0800 500 503.

NOVEMBER july2012 2013 . Hospitality/Thirst . 71

Food for Thought.

Brew.

Geoff Griggs

Brewers Guild to the rescue

by Geoff Griggs

For years I’ve complained about the lack of beer knowledge exhibited by many so-called hospitality professionals in New Zealand and the absence of any formal qualification in appreciation and understanding of beer.

In my experience your average bartender or restaurant waiter is far more likely to be able to make ten different types of coffee and recommend which wine pairs best with each dish on the menu than have even the most basic understanding of the beers they serve.

While I fully appreciate the requirement for staff to be well versed in coffee and wine, I’d say it’s equally important for front line hospitality staff to have some basic beer knowledge. At the very least they should know the difference between ales and lagers (no, it has nothing to do with colour!) and be able to recommend dishes that will best pair with a Pilsener, a pale ale, or a porter. Being able to describe the stylistic characteristics of, say, a Munich-style helles lager or a Belgian Trappist ale and knowing which foods go best with them should be considered just as fundamental as having the same knowledge of chardonnay and shiraz.

With premium and craft beers appearing in more and more places it’s great to see The Brewers Guild of New Zealand has finally come to the rescue. The new NZQA listed “Brewers Guild Certificate in the Craft of Beer” is a one-day course targeted specifically at people working in the hospitality and beer retailing industries and those wishing to join them.

72 . Hospitality/Thirst . july 2013

Overseen by the Hospitality Standards Institute, the new one-day workshop comprises three NZQA-approved unit standards. The first gives students an appreciation of beer’s heritage, its ingredients, how it is made, and a basic understanding of beer styles and flavours.

The second deals with beer storage and dispense systems and the serving of beer and the third teaches the principles of matching beer (and wine) with food.

The course also includes a visit to a local craft brewery for a hands-on look at the brewing process and concludes with a taste test in which six different beers are served and evaluated.

On its website (www.brewersguild.org. nz) the BGNZ recommends the course to hospitality employers wishing to up-skill their staff: “The increasing growth of ‘craft/boutique’ beers within the beer sector means that the education of you and your staff is becoming more and more important. They should know what they are serving to customers.”

Pilot courses last year in Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin resulted in 26 people gaining the qualif ication. One of those is Lisa Parker who owns Liquorland stores in Tauranga and Mount Maunganui. Lisa had no previous knowledge of craft beer,

but since taking the course has become one of its strongest advocates - her stores now offer huge selections of craft beers and she has already run two successful beer festivals in the Tauranga area. Both events included beer and food matching seminars.

Beer education is also very much a part of this year’s ‘Choice Beer Week’ in Wellington. With thousands of people arriving in the capital for Beervana, the BGNZ is running a special ‘Certificate in the Craft of Beer’ workshop on Thursday 8th August. A team of educators from around the country will present the course at Regional Wines & Spirits’ Basin Reserve store, with visits to ParrotDog brewery scheduled throughout the day.

In addition to the Wellington course, CCoB workshops are being scheduled regularly throughout the country.

Applications are currently being accepted at www.brewersguild.org.nz/event/craftbeer-workshops-book-now. The cost of attending is $300 plus GST per person.

Judging by the number of hospitality professionals, craft beer enthusiasts and home brewers who have already attended the workshops, the CCoB will be popping up on an increasing number of Kiwi CVs. I’ll raise my glass to that.

Cheers!

GOLDEN

Dark Horse