Wines of grace and finesse

It is again a pleasure to review the wines of this high quality, small-volume Margaret River producer, Cape Grace. My last review was in 2016, and the wines continue to grow in stature. Production is so small that I have noted the volumes of each wine. They certainly pertain to the ‘small is beautiful' concept. Robert and Karen Karri-Davies planted their 6ha of vines in Wilyabrup in 1996.

All wines are produced from estate-grown fruit, and certainly compare with their high-profile neighbouring vineyards. In fact, Dr Tom Cullity wanted their site for his pioneering 1967 Vasse Felix vineyard, but the land was not for sale then.

Robert's family history in the region dates back to 1875, when his great grandfather built the Leeuwin Lighthouse and founded the township of Margaret River. Cape Grace’s vines are low yielding and this, combined with their current maturity, is behind the excellent quality of wines produced. With production so small, wines are predominantly sold through cellar door and mail order (www.capegracewines.com.au).

Cape Grace 2022 Margaret River Chenin Blanc (RRP $26)

An enjoyable wine. Tropical fruit aromas with pineapple and guava. Fruit driven flavours – ripe red apples, rock melon, pineapple. Nice weight and texture, and a slightly 'funky' character from a portion of wild ferment in barrel. A 'zingy' acidity gives this wine crispness and clean finish. Great to drink now, though the 'Chenin acidity' will give it medium-term longevity (production 290 dozen).

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, not common in Margaret River, but a recognised Aussie style. Displays attractive aromas of blackberry and allspice. A medium-bodied wine. A harmonious amalgam of Cabernet and Shiraz characters as evidenced by flavours of blackberry, mulberry, pepper and spice. Bright fruit, supple tannins, mellow and easy drinking now and for a further few years (production 555 dozen).

Attractive in the glass with a youthful green tinged mid-gold colour. Nose is inviting with nectarine, nutty oak/cashew, a touch of brioche. Slightly reductive (which protects the wine in its youth). Palate shows peach, grapefruit and honeydew melon. Quality French oak is integrating. Texture from lees stirring and partial malolactic fermentation, balanced by a fine mineral core. Needs time to express its inherent quality and should evolve over 6-8 years into a complex rewarding wine (production 296 dozen).

Cab Franc is often considered secondary to Cab Sav, but often shows its best in cooler vintages when Cab Sav may show more herbal, unripe characters as it ripens a week or two later. This wine displays beautiful aromatics — fragrant, perfumed with redcurrant, leafy elements and a touch of spice. Flavours of blood plums, a touch of licorice and herbal nuances. Good acidity for this variety in a warmish vintage. Tannins are velvety, finish is fruity and refreshing. Enjoy now, or up to seven years cellaring (production 56 dozen).

REVIEWER'S PICK

Cape Grace 2019 Margaret River Basket Pressed Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $58)

A wonderful expression of Margaret River Cabernet. A cooler vintage, but this wine has achieved optimal ripeness due to low-yield concentrated fruit from mature vines. Youthful purple/red colour for its four years, which suggests a wine of longevity. Vibrant, enticing nose — blackcurrant and cigar box from quality French oak barriques. Palate refined and elegant. Flavours of blackcurrant and black olives with the Margaret River gravelly trademark in the background. Fine grained tannins glide across the palate. Integrated oak. Beautiful balance. Long flavours. A wonderful wine in the Margaret River mould. Delightful current drinking but will reward cellaring for another 15 years (production 415 dozen).