Fashion
Fabrics
How to become Eco-Friendly
Fashion
Fabrics
How to become Eco-Friendly
Published & Created By Megan Lothian
C O N T E N T S
An Introduction: Fashion 1 Fabrics Timeline: 2 Impact on the Environment: 4 Cotton Farming 5
Meet the Fabrics:
Organic Cotton 6 Silk 7 Bamboo 8 Wool 9 Lyocell 10 Cashmere 11 Linen 12 Polyester 13 Leather 14 Denim 15
Glossary 16 References 18
An Introduction:
Fashion Fabrics
Throughout history, different kinds of fabrics have defined how we dress. In the second half of the 20th century, two main fabrics have been dominant, Cotton and Polyester. Today, we can see that both of these fabrics in their current form are holding back the creation of a sustainable clothing industry. Convential Cotton is one of the world’s dirtiest crops, and Polyester, derived from a fossil fuel, has helped bring about cheap, disposable fashion. This book hopes to inform you about everything you need to know in relation to fashion fabrics. How they came about over the years and everything else environmentally. It also gives you an understanding of where fabrics you wear have came from, and how they can be eco-friendly.
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A Fabrics The first polyester fibres to go into large-scale production in the UK & US were ICI’s Terylene and DuPont’s Dacron.
Rayon, brand name ‘Celanese’ was manufactored for lingerie.
1920’s
1950’s 1940’s
Nylon stockings presented to the American public. First year on the market, DuPont sold 64 million pairs.
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1959
Spandex or Elastane, invented by DuPont chemist Joseph Shivers. Also known as Lycra, a synthetic elastic. Lycra revolutionized beachwear, giving us light, quick-drying bikinis.
Timeline...
Fabrics that came into fashion from the early to late 1990s
Synthetics lost their attraction and began to be used in mainly blended fabrics. Nylon was then removed from clothing labels and then replaced by ‘polyamide’.
DuPont had invented 31 polyesters and 70 nylons. Today, there are hundreds.
1960’s
1980’s 1970’s
Lycra came of age in leggings and figurehugging leotards.
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Impacton theEnvironment
Fabrics use up a fair amount of the world’s petrochemical stocks, a non-renewable resource. Here are some examples:
r e t s e Poly
- Leads to emissions into both air and water of heavy metals, cobalt and manganese salts, sodium bromide, titanium dioxide, antimony oxide and acetaldehyde.10 - Most is manufactored using antimony as a catalyst. - Antimony is toxic to the heart, lungs, liver and skin. - Long-term inhalation of antimony trioxide can cause chronic bronchitis and emphysema. - Large amounts of water are used in cooling. - Mill waste water is taunted with antimony trioxide, which leaches from polyester fibres during the hightemperature dye process.10
Nylon
- Emits nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas with a global warming effect, some 200 times larger than Carbon Dioxide.10
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Cotton Farming
The world area used for cotton cultivation is estimated to be between 30 and 35 million hectares. Since the 1950’s, the output on the land has nearly tripled. What impact has this had on the environment?
Reduced Soil Fertility
Through the constant application of pesticides, the soil essentially dies, losing allof its vital organisms and becoming almost entirely reliant on artificial fetilizers to make the cotton grow.11
Soil Salinization
Pest Resistance
When faced with chemical pesticide spraying, pests learn how to become resistant, which results in ever more potent pesticides being applied and a never ending pest-resistant cycle.
Water Pollution
Salty earth from irrigated cotton production causes degradation and eventual abandonment of produced land. Estimates indicate that in 6 leading cotton producing countries, between 12 and 36% of the area is damaged through through salinization.11
Hazardous cotton pesticides are now known to contaminate rivers in the US, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Brazil, Australia, Greece and West Africa.11 Aldicarb has been detected in the groundwater in 16 US states.
Water Mismanagement
Risks to Biodiversity
The Aral sea was once the world’s fourth largest inland body of water, which is now reduced to just 15% of its former volume. Diverting water from the Aral for cotton production in the central Asian country of Uzbekistan has led to the disapearance of the sea’s 24 species of native fish, including the sturgeon, the drying-out of the wetland and the creation of tens of thousands of environmental refugees as livelihoods centred around the fish stocks have been destroyed. The worst is 60% of the water diverted from the Aral never reaches the cotton fields as it is lost in the decaying irrigration network.11
Pesticides harm soil organisms, migratory species such as insects, birds and mammals and downstream freshwater species. In 1995, endosulfan contaminated run-off from cotton fields in Alabama, US, resulted in the death of more than 240,000 fish along a 25km stretch of water.11
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Meet the Fabrics This section will showcase more information about a variety of fabrics being analysed. The information helps in creating awareness and promoting an eco-world.
Organic Cotton Organic Cotton is great as it’s conventionally grown with the cotton packs, a huge pesticide punch and is one of the most chemical-laden crops in the world.
What Stores? H&M and Gap
The Problems
If the Organic Cotton you purchase isn’t assured to be fairtrade. It is processed using conventional dyes or treated with chemicals such as Formaldehyde to keep it from wrinkling on it’s trip oversees. That T-shirt is still leaving a sizable footprint on the Earth.1 Labels won’t tell you everything and that you have to dig deeper to get the whole story. Perhaps, these are some of many issues that lead to be addressed as far as the issue of eco-friendly.
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Look out for
- Certified organic, sustainable and of course, eco-friendly. - Buy shades it’s already grown in: cream, pale green and light brown.1
Silk Silk is a natural protein fiber, obtained from cocoons made by the larvae of silkworms. The appearance is a triangular-prismlike structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles.
Described as: -A reputation as the ‘Queen of Fabrics’.2 -Luxurious softness -Lustrous beauty -Relatively robust & strong. -Most hypoallergenic because of it’s structure.
Great for: - Spinning - Knitting - Sewing - Taking other colours - Easy washes - Weaving - Mixing with other animal and vegetable fibres.2
All Climate: Silk is warm and cosy in winter, without being bulky underneath, and comfortably cool in warmer temperatures. It is also highly absorbent as it can absorb up to 30% of it’s weight in moisture without feeling damp, so it absorbs perspiration while letting your skin breathe.2
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Bamboo Would you believe Bamboo is a fabric?
It’s very suprisingly versatile, for both your body and the environment.2
How is it made?
It’s made from the Cellulose extracted from the bamboo plant and can be made into easy-care, buttery soft, machine-washable fabrics.2
Why good for the Planet? It’s a natural, renewable resource that grows very quickly with very little water, doesn’t require fertilizers or pesticides, adds more oxygen to the atmosphere than trees and has a complex root system that helps fight erosion.
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It:
- Is comfortable and breathable, wicking moisture at twice the rate of conventional cotton and drying quickly. - Has natural antimicrobial protection, designed to inhibit the growth of the bacteria and fungi the cause odor, helping to protect you from perspiration, staining and keeping your clothing looking great longer. - Is hypoallergenic. - Is softer than cotton with a texture and sheen simular to silk, yet is washable and can be worn all year round, since it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. - Is easy to dye without using harsh chemicals.2
Merino Wool Nature’s high performance fabric. Today in the knitting trades, ‘Merino’generally means the softest wool.2
It is: - Much finer and softer - Itch-free - Great if someone suffers with severe sensitivities or lanolin alergies.2
Where does it come from? Merino wool comes from Merino sheep, which you can find in New Zealand and Australia.3
It Offers: - Superior breathability - Temperature regulation - Inherent antimicrobial properties. - Wind protection - Fire retardant - Mildew resistance - Water proofing - Moisture transfer - Tear resistance - UV protection
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Lyocell Lyocell is better known by it’s brand name ‘Tencel’. It is a naturally eco-friendly fabric.2
Noted for its: - Durability. - Strength. - Eco-friendly manufactoring techniques.
What is it made of? It is made from cellulose or wood pulp. (A mix of hardwood trees like oak and birch).3
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Characteristics: - Soft and drapes well. - Absorbent. - Very strong when wet or dry. - Resistant to wrinkes. - Easily cleaned by machine or hand-washing and drycleaning. - Can be dyed many colours. - Stimulates a variety of textiles such as suede, leather or silk.2
Cashmere Cashmere is more like wool than any hair fibre. The fibres are fine and soft and cashmere is not durable.3
It is:
- 50% warmer than wool. - Knitted or woven. - Found in a range of fabrics from soft jersey knits to woven coatings.
Hand Washing
- Use lukewarm water with soap flakes or liquid soap. - Try not to rub or twist the garment as this may cause pilling.3
After Washing/Protecting:
- Rinse the garment in cool water until all the soap is removed, squeezing gently without wringing. -Squeeze away access water with a towel. - Dry naturally, away from direct heat and sunlight. - Important not to spin or tumble-dry.3
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Linen Linen is a material made from the fibres of the ‘flax plant’.2 It’s far more comfortable and satisfying than the other fabrics, here’s why:
Highly Absorbent Linen can absorb and lose water rapidly, quickly removing perspiration from the skin.2
Good Conductor (Heat) In Winter: Keeps the heat in. In Summer: Feels cool to the touch and creates a feeling of coolness and comfort.2
The Strongest..
Easy Care
Of the vegetable fibres. Has two to three times the strength of cotton, enduring up to 20 years of use.2
- Resists dirt and stains. - Has no lint or piling tendancy. - Can be dry-cleaned, machine washed or steamed. - Withstands high temperatures and shrinkage.2 - Gets softer the more it’s washed and doesn’t fade.
Environmental Filter Protects from a chemically aggressive environment, noise, dust, radiation, gamma rays and electromagnetic waves.2
Unique Antibacterial Qualities
- It contains a natural antiseptic that prevents bacteria growth. - Helps kill microbes preventing fungal diseases, inflammation and damaged skin infection.2
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Strongest Energy - Creates a feeling of calm, concentration and depth of thought.2 - Psychotherepists agree that linen fibres have an ability to protect a person from depression, being nervous and breakdowns.2
Polyester Polyester is valued for it’s durability, good shape, lack of shrinkage, strength and wrinkle resistance.3
They Are: - Crisp and of equal strength, whether wet or dry.3 - Not to absorb moisture and attract lint, dust or smoke. - Not easily absorbed by body oils, or lose their colour when absorbed. - Not good with breathing well, making them poor choices for hot climates and clammy during the winter.3
Washing & Protecting: - Can be machine washed and dried. - Adding a fabric softner generally helps. - Dry the fabric at low temperatures to get maximum usage from the clothing. - Although polyester does not need much ironing, you may iron it if required. - It can be dry-cleaned with no hassles.3
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Leather
Leather is technically not a fibre in the same way as most other fabrics, it is a treated animal skin. Here are some examples:3
Chamois
- Soft suede, a form of leather derived from sheep, goats or deer.3 - Made from sustainable and renewable materials and friendly to the environment. - Biodegradable. - It has looser bundles of fibres, which when dry, contract and shrink.4
Cowhide
- Smooth-grained leather in a range of weights.5 - A product of cattle and is mainly for industries which focus on meat production.5 - After the cows are slaughtered for meat, the skin is taken off to make leather products to make for clothing and furniture. - Natural hide tanning with plant bark extracts are followed to make it soft, supple, and odor free.5 - Drying the skin improves molting resistance and increase its life. The quality is determined during and after the
Patent Leather
- Leather worked with a solution that makes it hard and shiny. - Virtually waterproof. - It is usually black, and has been popular for dress and dancing shoes. in the final finishing stage, when it is coated with a lacquer to give it its characteristic glossiness.3
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tanning process.5
Denim Is it the most popular fabric in the world?
What is it?
It’s a French fabric which is twillweaved with the fabrics silk and wool, originally from the town of Nimes.6
Who?
Levi Strauss is credited with inventing today’s denim jeans, originally sold in California in the 1850’s to gold miners, who needed clothes that were strong and didn’t tear easily.6
Where?
Denim was dyed from natural indigo plants until the introduction of synthetic dyes at the end of the 19th century. Denim is pre-washed then either stonewashed using pumice stones or enzymewashed at high temperatures to fade, soften and preshrink the fabric. Denim is no longer made just from cotton, it can be mixed with synthetic materials such as Polymide, Lycra, Polyproyene, Polyester and Nylon. Denim jeanscan also be made using Linen, Hemp, Wool, Silk and Cashmere.
The Variety
Every year brings a new wave of jeans:
- Bootcut - Flared - Skinny - Low-Slung - High-Waisted - Distressed - Boyfriend - Ripped - Embrodered - Relaxed Fit - Black & Coloured - Designer Label - Supermarket - Eco (hemp & organic cotton)
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Glossary
Antimicrobial: Active against microbes. Antimony: The chemical element of atomic number 51, a brittle silvery-white semimetal. Antiseptic: Preventing the growth of disease-causing microorganisms. Biodegradable: Capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms and thereby avoiding pollution. Biodiversity: The variety of plant and animal life in the world or in a particular habitat, a high level of which is usually considered to be important and desirable. Catalyst: A substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction without itself undergoing any permanent chemical change. Celanese: Celanese Corporation is a Fortune 500 global technology and specialty materials company with its headquarters in Dallas, Texas, United States. Cellulose: An insoluble substance which is the main constituent of plant cell walls and of vegetable fibres such as cotton. It is a polysaccharide consisting of chains of glucose monomers. Chronic Bronchitis: a form of bronchitis characterized by excess production of sputum leading to a chronic cough and obstruction of air flow. Chamois: a type of soft pliable leather now made from sheepskin or lambskin. Clammy: Unpleasantly damp and sticky or slimy to touch. Contamination: Make (something) impure by exposure to or addition of a poisonous or polluting substance. Cowhide Leather: Less expensive, it offers comfort, durability, good abrasion and heat resistance. Cultivation: The action of cultivating land, or the state of being cultivated. Dacron: A synthetic polyester (polyethylene terephthalate) with tough, elastic properties, used as a textile fabric. Degradation: The condition or process of degrading or being degraded. DuPont: E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company, commonly referred to as DuPont, is an American chemical company that was founded in July 1802 as a gunpowder mill by Eleuthère Irénée du Pont. Durability: The ability to withstand wear, pressure, or damage. Electromagnetic Waves: Radiation consisting of waves of energy associated with electric and magnetic fields resulting from the acceleration of an electric charge. Emphysema: A condition in which the air sacs of the lungs are damaged and enlarged, causing breathlessness. Enzyme-Washed: Similar to Stone-Washing, but a more environmentally friendly method, it gives the denim a softer finish. Flax: A blue-flowered herbaceous plant that is cultivated for its seed (linseed) and for textile fibre made from its stalks. Fossil Fuels: A natural fuel such as coal or gas, formed in the geological past from the remains of living organisms. Formaldehyde: A colourless pungent gas in solution made by oxidizing methanol.
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Definitions sourced from Google, typing the word + ‘define’ [Accessed 6 March 2014]
Gamma Rays: Penetrating electromagnetic radiation of shorter wavelength than X-rays. Hectares: A metric unit of square measure, equal to 100 ares (2.471 acres or 10,000 square metres). Hypoallergenic: Relatively unlikely to cause an allergic reaction. ICI: Abbreviation for ‘Imperial Chemical Industries’. Inflammation: A localized physical condition in which part of the body becomes reddened, swollen, hot, and often painful, especially as a reaction to injury or infection. Lanolin: a fatty substance found naturally on sheep’s wool. It is extracted as a yellowish viscous mixture of esters and used as a base for ointments. Larvae: The active immature form of an insect, especially one that differs greatly from the adult and forms the stage between egg and pupa. Lukewarm: (of liquid or food that should be hot) only moderately warm. Lycra: An elastic polyurethane fibre or fabric used especially for close-fitting sports clothing. Microbe: A microorganism, especially a bacterium causing disease or fermentation. Non-Renewable Resource: A resource that does not renew itself at a sufficient rate for sustainable economic extraction in meaningful human timeframes. Patent Leather: Leather with a glossy varnished surface, used chiefly for shoes, belts, and handbags. Pesticides: A substance used for destroying insects or other organisms which is harmful to cultivated plants or to animals. Pest-Resistant: Pest Control refers to the regulation/management of a species defined as a pest, usually because it is perceived to be detrimental to a person’s health, the ecology or economy. Perspiration: The process of sweating. Petrochemical Stocks: Obtained by the refining and processing of petroleum or natural gas. Polyamide: a synthetic polymer of a type made by the linkage of an amino group of one molecule and a carboxylic acid group of another, including many synthetic fibres such as nylon. Psychotherapists: A therapist who deals with mental and emotional disorders. Pumice Stones: A very light and porous volcanic rock formed when a gas-rich froth of glassy lava solidifies rapidly. Renewable: A source of energy that is not depleted by use, such as water, wind, or solar power. Robust: (of an object) Sturdy in construction. Salinization: Salination can be caused by natural processes such as mineral weathering or the gradual withdrawal of an ocean. Soap Flakes: Soap in the form of thin flakes used for washing clothes. Soil Fertility: Soil fertility refers to the ability of the soil to support organic life. Low fertility means that soil would be very a very hard place to grow plants. Stone-Washed: Usually of a garment or fabric, (especially denim) washed with abrasives to produce a worn or faded appearance. Sturgeon: A very large primitive fish with bony plates on the body. It occurs in temperate seas and rivers of the northern hemisphere, especially central Eurasia, and is of commercial importance for its caviar and flesh. Sustainable: Able to be maintained at a certain rate or level. Synthetics: A synthetic material or chemical, especially a textile fibre. Terylene: An artificial textile fibre made from a polyester, used to make light, crease-resistant clothing, bed linen, and sails. Twill-Weaved: A weave used to produce the effect of parallel diagonal ribs. Wicking: Absorb or draw off (liquid) by capillary action. Wrinkle Resistant: (creaseproof) A fabric that does not wrinkle easily.
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Avaliable from: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_9ISWZ1TCIWM/ TTHZ-_45i1I/AAAAAAAAABk/Ev8BdPt5aro/s1600/lycocell.jpg bambrotex.com. [2007] Tencel Fabric. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 10: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.bambrotex.com/tencel/tencel_fabric%2001.jpg
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Birch tree wallpapers. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 10: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://6269-9001.zippykid.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Birch-Tree-Desktop-Wallpaper.jpg Carolynparkerlifestyle.com. Cashmere Fabric. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 11: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.carolynparkerlifestyle.com/ wp-content/uploads/2012/09/steel-bunch.jpg Cashmere Stitch. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 11: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://0.tqn.com/d/needlepoint/1/0/V/6/-/-/Cashmere1.jpg Cashmere Goat. [Blog], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 11: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oR_tlKaVlWg/UkEzOqE0h3I/AAAAAAAABf4/3bxf0gYT11E/s1600/050.JPG Linen Fabric. [Blog], [Accessed 8 March 2014]. (Page 12: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_O1roNtE_GWQ/S7gqi23bjzI/AAAAAAAAABc/ K83XntlYSVA/s1600/Linen_Yarn_Dyed_Chambray_Fabric.jpg Linen Cushion. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 12: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.black.co.uk/media/images/Oatmeal_Linen_Cushion_71_1_L. jpg Linen Fabric. [Blog], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 12: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.cn-fabrics.com/images/pro/lvj11.jpg Polyester Fabric. [Web], [Accessed 8 March 2014]. (Page 13: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.offsetwarehouse.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/500x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/a/fabric_polyester_fabric.jpg Polyester Fabrics. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 13: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://eqatar.com/uploads/buy_sell/20130810100839975.jpg Polyester Thread. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 13: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.heritageupholsterysupplies.co.uk/media/catalog/product/ cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/p/spun_polyester_thread_120s_5.jpg Polyester Fibres. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 13: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/125479681/solid_polyester_fibre.jpg Leather Material. [Web], [Accessed 8 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.wedo-headboards.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/ real_leather_swatch.jpg Chamois Fabric. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://cdn.hotfrog.co.uk/companies/DERI2000-CHAMOIS-LEATHER/ images/DERI2000-CHAMOIS-LEATHER_86102_image.jpg Chamois Leather Gloves. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.black.co.uk/media/images/chamois_leather_driving_gloves_1_L.jpg Cowhide Fabric. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://cdn.leatherhidestore.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/o/n/onyx_black_8_final_1_1.jpg Cowhide Furniture. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.buzzle.com/img/articleImages/498301-0415-11.jpg Patent Leather Prada Shoes. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.iluxdb.com/prada-patent-leather-round-toe-pumpwith-95-mm-heel-and-10-mm-platform-covered-in-the-same-material-as-the-upper-1ip0791f2f0a48f095/ Patent Leather Fabrics. [Web], [Accessed 13 March 2014]. (Page 14: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Avaliable from: http://www.counterkicks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/ counterkicks_patent_leather_02.jpg Title background of Denim Fabric. [Web], [Accessed 5 March 2014]. (Page 15: Images from top to bottom, left to right). Available from: http://www.in.all.biz/img/in/catalog/605439.jpeg Types of Jeans (in the mini circles) [Web], [Accessed 5 March 2014]. (Page 15: Images from top to bottom, left to right). All avaliable from: http://www.thefashionpolice.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/skinny-jeans-bootcut-jeans.jpg
Book:
Research
Matilda Lee & Katharine Hamnett. 2007. Eco Chick - The savvy shopper’s guide to ethical fashion. [print] Hachette, UK. Octopusbooks.co.uk
Information:
Page 1: 1st & 2nd Paragraph. Page 2&3: Bit of Timeline and did you know information. Page 4: Shown on this page by the number 4 shown like this: 10 Page 5: Shown on this page by the number 5 like this: 11
Websites:
1. http://www.greenlivingonline.com/article/guide-natural-and-eco-friendly-fabrics 2. https://www.mvstylenaturals.com/natural-fabric.php 3. https://www.trendymondays.com/fabric-guide 4. http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110510133404AAqjFE0 (Chamois Leather, some information). 5. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/cowhide-leather.html (Cowhide Leather, some information and image). 6. http://www.fashion-era.com/denim_jeans_and_casual_wear.htm (Denim, some information, can’t find specific website).
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This book tells you everything you need to know about Fashion Fabrics. How they came about over the 20th Century and everything else environmentally. It also gives you an understanding of where fabrics you wear have came from, and how they can be eco-friendly.
Published & Created By Megan Lothian